Discover Nagato
At the heart of Yamaguchi prefecture

MysticalOnsen and Hagiyaki
Pottery
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Onto Onsen
Addre ss: 2 265 Fukawa-Yumoto,
Nagato City, Yamaguchi Prefecture
Tel: 0837-25-4100
Business hours: 10:00 - 22:00
Closed: 3rd Tuesday of every month(may vary during holidays)
Admission: 900 for adults and 400 yen

This is the men’s bath at the Onto Onsen. The figure of Sumiyoshi Daimyojin sits
atop the bedrock from which the hot spring water flows. The Shimenawa woven
straw piece comes from the Sumiyoshi Shrine in Shimonoseki, Yamaguchi
Prefecture. The women’s bath is located just on the other side of the wall, andfeatures roughly the same design.

for children (aged 4 to 12).
Children under the age of 3 are free ofcharge.
www.onto.jp

The Onto Hiroba (Plaza) is located almost at the centre of the resort along the Otozure river.
The Onto hot spring is on the right, and the Onto Shoku restaurant on the left.

Keijo Iwata, 53rd head priest of Taineiji
Te m p l e . T h e c e m e t e r y l o c a t e d o n t h etemple grounds contains a stone called theSumiyoshi Daimyojin no Zazenishi, or Zen
Meditation Stone of Sumiyoshi Daimyojin.

Overview and History

Onto Onsen
The Nagato-Yumoto Hot Spring is one of the most
famous hot spring resorts in Yamaguchi Prefecture. The
Onto hot spring that symbolizes the resort is enrichedby a complexity of history and legends. Let’s unravel themysteries together.

Left: The Onto hot spring before the renewal in 2020. The
onsen has always served as a symbol of the hot spring
resort and a place to relax for the local residents.
Right: The Onto hot spring in the late 1950s.
Photo: Kenichi Murakami (Nagato City Board of Education)

A famous hot spring gifted by the god Sumiyoshi Daimyojin
The Otozure river flows through the middle of the NagatoYumoto hot spring resort. The Onto Onsen located on its
banks has been part of the daily lives of the residents forat least 600 years. Legend has it that one night, the third
head priest of Taineiji Temple, Joan Shuzen, was walking
the temple grounds, not far from the Onto hot spring,when he came upon a man engaged in Zen meditation on a
rock. Shuzen asked the old man his name,and the old man
answered with a Waka poem, “I am the God Sumiyoshi inthe hidden place, now and of old, where the wind blows
through the pines,” and his true form was revealed to be
the God Sumiyoshi Daimyojin of Ichinomiya in the Provinceof Nagato. Shuzen invited the old man into the temple, andinstructed him in the Way of the Buddha. Then, in 1427,
when the old man was given a brocade robe by Shuzen,
he said, “I have brought forth a hot spring. Please use it if
you like,” to repay the kindness, and he transformed into a

dragon and flew up into the sky. Today, the source of the hotspring remains in the possession of Taineiji Temple. So what
is legend and what is fact? We spoke with Keijo Iwata, the53rd head priest of the temple, to find out.. “Taineiji Temple
is a temple of the Soto School founded in 1410 by local lord
Washizu Hirotada, a member of a branch of the Ouchi Clan.
The Ouchi Clan had amassed great riches through trade with
China and Korea and as. Sumiyoshi Daimyojin is a god who
protects travel across the sea, it is possible that the Ouchi
Clan colluded with Taineiji Temple and Sumiyoshi Shrine toconstruct the story for political purposes.” A stone statue of
Sumiyoshi Daimyojin which has been passed down throughthe ages sits in the Onto bathhouse. Throughout, one cansense hints of why this hot spring is known as Shinju-no-yu,
or A God’s Bath. Ancient records of temple activities in the
Temple’s possession, mentions many episodes on the ‘hot
spring gifted by the God Sumiyoshi.’ So surely Onto has been
known as a sacred hot spring for many centuries.”

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Onto Onsen is shown in front, while the glassbuilding on the other side of the Onto Plaza is theOnto Shoku dining building. Both structures are
single story so as not to interrupt the sceneryin the hot spring resort. Visitors can also spenda leisurely moment on the long porch, called an
Engawa.

Top: A spacious open resta r e a . T h e Ta t a m i m a t splaced on the floor allow
guests to go barefoot. Here,
refreshments such as beerand soft ser ve ice cream
are also available. The
furniture is by Antipoeme,
a furniture brand from
Kagawa Prefecture.
Bottom: The corridor
passing in front of the watch
room leads to a stairway to
Sumiyoshi Shrine.

The Shohei Oka Architectural Office is a joint venture
run by Shohei Oka (center), Yuko Hirose (left), andTomotaka Yasui (right). The firm is involved incommunity development to increase community
value, such as their project to open the Busshozan
Hot Spring in Takamatsu City, Kagawa Prefecture.

Architecture

Architecture that embodies
the legend of Shinju-no-yu
The Sumiyoshi Shrine sits atop the hill over the Onto
Onsen. The renovations of the hot spring have resulted ina new scenic view created together with Sumiyoshi Shrine
and the Otozure river.
The sky opens wide before you when you descend thebamboo grove stairway (Chikurin-no-Kaidan) to the green
lawn of the Onto Plaza, accompanied by the soothing
murmurs of the Otozure river resonating in the air. With theOnto hot spring on the left and the Onto Shoku restauranton the right, the structures blend seamlessly into the naturearound them, becoming a natural part of the landscape. We
spoke with one of the architects, Shohei Oka, to learn more.

The designer of Onto also
designed new guest rooms at
a local inn“The Onto hot spring waters bubble up from the bedrock

right next to Sumiyoshi Shrine. Accordingly, we decided thatcovering the ground, so the conditions here are quite special.

it would be best to design the buildings, so they become a

In ancient times, people likely bathed in the standing pools ofpart of the shrine. Thus, the Chiyobashi Bridge in front ofwater where it bubbled up from the bedrock. Accordingly,

the Onto hot spring is like the entrance to a sacred place.

we designed baths to accept this naturally flowing water toPassing from the door to the watch room is a stairway thatrecreate that natural approach.”leads up to Sumiyoshi Shrine. This represents a new path for

When you get into the baths, before you is the natural

worshippers visiting the shrine.” “Three of the walls aroundbedrock as it has always been, and you can watch the water

the rest area are full length glass. And the dining building

flow from it. The water is a simple alkaline hot spring (pHacross from it is also an almost identical construction. The

9.62). The hot spring water flows from the bedrock at 39° C,

plaza, Otozure river, and dining building come together tomaking it soft and gentle as it embraces your skin.

form a single space because we extended the eaves to add a“Also known as Shinju-no-Yu (A God’s Bath), Onto is locatedlong porch, or Engawa, along the building.”

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The Shohei Oka Architectural Office was also
involved in the renewal of the Gyokusenkaku
Inn, The guest rooms were designed as simple
spaces in which the terraces continue naturally
from the rooms. The rooms are floored withchinquapin wood grown and har ves ted in
Nagato.

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Onto Shoku

365+1 BEER

The Onto Shoku res taur ant of fer s a menu of
healthy dishes including
a delicious Egg-Chicken
over r ice using local
tender Choshu chicken,
thich handmade tofu andlocal vegetables.

This cr af t beer brewer y
w a s l a u n c h e d i n 2 0 21
af ter renovating an old
pharmacy. Run by husband
and wife Takanao and Ayaka
Ariga 365+1 Beer offers six
standard brews and several
seasonal beers.

Data

R i g h t : K a z u y o Yo k o y a m a , t h esecond-generation proprietor. Left:
The cafe offers a comfortable spacewith its plastered walls, riversidewood deck, and atmosphericantique furniture. The cafe exhibits
and sells ceramics selectedaccording to a theme of items thatcan be used every day.

Address: 1247-2 FukawaYumoto, Nagato City, Yamaguchi
Prefecture Business hours:
Please check Instagram fordetails: sanrokuroku_beer

A cafe where you can enjoy Hagi ware
creations by young potters

Data
Address: 2270-5 FukawaYumoto, Nagato City, Yamaguchi Prefecture
Tel: 0837-25-4333
Business hours: 11:00 - 22:00(21:00 last order)
Closed: Wednesdays
www.ontoshoku.jp

Okiza(Otozure Terrace)

Cafe & Pottery Oto

Data

This cafe and gallery occupy a 50 year-old renovated wood framed
home standing on the side of the Otozure river. The cafe exhibits andsells ceramics by three local artists who operate the Hagi ware Fukawa
kiln. Works by these ar tists are also used to ser ve the handmade
sweets and drinks served in the cafe space. The proprietor is sure you
will be pleased with any dish on the menu.

A d d r e s s : 1261-12 Fu k a w a
Yumoto Nagatoshi, Yamaguchi
Tel：0837-25-4004
Open:10:00-16:00
Closed: Wednesday, Thursday
Instagram:@oto_cafe

Unique Dorayaki sweets
made with citrus fruits

This terrace belongs to Cafe
& Pottery Oto. Here you canenjoy the cafe’s menu on theterrace with a close-up view of
the Otozure river.

Akebono Cafe

This cafe, attached to Hoshino Resor ts K AI Nagato, isopen to all visitors whether or not they are staying at theinn. The cafe offers three types of Dorayaki sweets: Azuki,
Natsu Mikan, and Yuzukichi.

Benches and planters
Benches and planters are installed to match the environment around the
Otozure river to make your strolls through the area more comfortable.
Why not grab a bench to enjoy a break while you gaze on the river?

Data
Address: 2229-1 Fukawa-Yumoto, Nagato City,
Yamaguchi Prefecture
Tel: 0570-073-011 (Kai Reservation Centre)
Business hours: 11:00 - 16:00 (subject to change)
Closed: No regular holidays www.kai-ryokan.jp/nagato

Local Flavour; Nagato Yakitori

Kawara Soba and bar

Sakura Shokudo

Tsukune (ground chicken),
Kimo (Liver), Momo (thigh).
Proprietor Sakurako Aomura.
Takeout also available.

Yakitori is the soul food ofNagato. The propr ietor
here, procures fresh
chicken every morning andskilfully grills it to order.
The Nagato s tyle is tospear regular onions on
the stick between piecesof chicken and topping it
off with garlic powder.

Osoto Heaven

Enjoy arelaxing
strollaroundNagatoYumoto
A free map for walking aroundthe hot spring resort called
Osoto Heaven Map is available.
Get your copy when you visit
and enjoy taking walks aroundthe Nagato-Yumoto Hot Spring
resort.

Daigo Nagaya

Owner Daigo Kimura renovatedt h i s h i s to r i c wo o d e n b u i l d i ng o n h i sown. Kawar a Soba Yanagiya , a noodle
restaurant, occupies the first floor, while
The Bar Nagato occupies the second.

Data
Address: 1272-6 Fukawa Yumoto, Nagato City, Yamaguchi
Prefecture
Tel: 0837-25-3660
Business hours: 11:00 - 14:30(Last order: 14:00), 17:00 22:00 (Last order: 21:30)
Closed: Thursdays
Instagram:@_sakurashokudou_

Right: Kawara Soba (single serving). The crispy noodles
placed over the hot Kawara tile are also delicious. Left:
Proprietor Misae Okazaki.

Left: Bartender Daisuke Kuroda Middle: The moody bar
sits on top of the Kawara Soba restaurant Right: With 30
years experience, Kuroda mixes a great cocktail

Uncompromising flavor
achieved through trial and error

Enjoy a quiet drink while gazing out
on the quietly flowing Otozure river.

How to enjoy and fall in love withexperiences are available to visitors here as well.

the Nagato-Yumoto Hot Spring resort

The Association for the Utilization of Nagato-Yumoto Osoto

The greatest attraction of the Nagato-Yumoto Hot Springis working to improve and beautify the use of public spaces

resort is the lifestyle and culture that has been created andsuch as the Otozure river and roads in the hot spring resort

nurtured here. Children play in the Otozure river that flows

area. With Osoto (Open Air) Heaven as their slogan, thethrough the center of the resor t,and locals relax on the

Association continues to plan numerous ways for residents

terraces set up around the river and everyone bathes at theand visitors to enjoy their walks in the community.

This shop has long pursued the ultimate taste of Kawara Soba, a
local noodle dish in Shimonoseki, Yamaguchi Prefecture. The resultof those efforts, and the pride of the chef, is a richly fl avorful bowlof green tea soba topped with Kinshi Tamago (strings of scrambledegg), savory beef, and local green onions from Nagato. They alsooffer Mitarashi Dango sweets at the front of the shop.

Onto Onsen. Evenings are spent eating and drinking at theWith the murmuring of the river and the tweeting of birds

Data

resort’s unique restaurants, resting on the benches along theserving as the background music to your walks, your hours

riverside paths, enjoying the changing seasonal landscape,of enjoyment at the Nagato-Yumoto Hot Spring resort will

and the illumination throughout town. All of these richmake you want to return over and over again.

Kawara Soba Yanagiya

Address: 1F, Daigo Nagaya, 1325-1 Fukawa-Yumoto, Nagato City, Yamaguchi
Prefecture
Tel: 080-9185-3070
Business hours: 11:00 - 19:00 (Last order: 18:30)
Closed: Tuesdays, Third Wednesday
Instagram: @yanagiya.yumoto

The Bar Nagato
Owner Daisuke Kuroda has been bar tending for about 30 years andserves cocktails made with local fruit, rare whiskeys or anything else
your hear t desires. “I would be more than pleased if the time spent
here becomes a memory of your vacation.”, he explains
Data
Address: 2F, Daigo Nagaya, 1325-1 Fukawa-Yumoto, Nagato City, Yamaguchi
Prefecture
Tel: 070-4426-8169
Business hours: 18:00 - 24:00 (Last order)
Closed: Mondays
yumotoonsen.com/food/the-bar-nagato

www.yumotoonsen.com
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Ta h a r a To b e i K i l n

十三代

Shinjo Sukeemon Kiln

田原 陶兵衛Tobei Tahara XIII
Bringing out the beauty of Hagi ware clay
through a variety of expressions

十四代

新庄 貞嗣

Sadatsugu Shinjo XIV
A personal approach to pottery
found through trial and error

Tobei Tahara
Tobei Tahara was born in Nagato
C i t y in 1951. H e s t u d i e d u n d e r
Shigetoshi Nakazato after
graduating from the Musashino Art
University Graduate School in 1975.
He was selected for the JapaneseTraditional Craf ts E xhibition for
the first time in 1990 and is therecipient of numerous awards.

Sadatsugu Shinjo,
14th generation potter
Sadatsugu Shinjo was born in
Nagato City in 1950. He completed
his graduate studies in sculpture at
Tokyo University of the Arts in 1977
and later completed a traineeshipin ceramics at the Kyoto Municipal
Institute of Industrial Technology
and Culture.

www.tahara-tohbe.com

Hagi ware tea bowl
E x h i b i t e d a t t h e 6 4t h Ja p a n e s e
Traditional Crafts Exhibition. Madeof Mishima and Daido clay, and ash
glazed after firing.

Split high base tea bowl
This piece offers an elegant coloration from the white Hagi glaze. “I place
importance on maintaining elegancewhen creating my tea bowls.”

The Tahara Tobei Kiln was founded by Sukezaemon Akagawa, oneof the original potters in Sounose. The 13th generation potter Tobei
Tahara studied under the Karatsu potter Shigetoshi Nakazato after
studying at the Musashino Ar t University Graduate School. “I have
had many opportunities to learn, such as being able to see the worksof the 12th generation Tobei objectively, and the techniques I learnedin Karatsu.” Since Tobei returned at 26, he has honed his skills on adaily basis in order to bring out the true expression of the clay that ischaracteristic of Hagi ware. “When I achieve the look I am aiming for,whether a soft or rough expression, I look for what I need to do next. I
hope I can continue to evolve in the future as well.”

Sadatsugu Shinjo is a descendant of Sukeemon Akagawa, who in turn
was a descendant of Li Shakuko. After the death of his father, the 13th
generation potter Kanzan Shinjo, Sadatsugu decided to attend Tokyo
University of the Arts because he felt he was yet unable to take overthe kiln at that time. He returned to the Sounose valley after studying
sculpture at university and learning pottery in Kyoto. “When I started,
I wanted to explore the possibilities of Hagi ware using traditional clays
and glazes, and different strengths of fl ame in the climbing kiln. A tea
bowl is an item that fi lls the space between your hands comfor tably
and gives a sense of the space within. I consider the space in which thepiece exists as I carry out my pottery.”S a k a k u r a Z e n’e m o n K i l n

Deika Kiln

十代

Artists in pursuit of
their own unique Hagi ware

坂倉 善右衛門

Zen’emon Sakakura X
Pioneering the future of Hagi ware without beingbound by traditions or stereotypes
Zen’emon Sakakura
Zen’emon Sakakura was born in
Nagato City in 1969. He graduatedfrom Kobe Design Universit y in
1994. He began training at a kiln in
Mino after completing training at
the Tajimi City Pottery Design andTechnical Center in 1996. In 2000,
he returned to Sounose and becamet h e 10 t h g e n e r a t i o n Z e n’e m o n
Sakakura in 2006.
Moonlight ware
Beautifully coloring from a uniquelocal glaze this piece is somewhere
between a piece of tableware and an
art object.

Fukawa-Yumoto and Sounose,
Nagato City, Yamaguchi Prefecture

Fukawa Goyo
In 1657, Li Shakuko, the founder of the Hagi ware tradition, moved
with his descendants to the mountains of Fukawa-Yumoto Sounosein Nagato and established the Sounose Hagi ware collective under
the command of the local lord. Here we introduce five kilns still
proudly making Hagi ware in this small village.

This kiln was originally founded during the Edo Period as the Sakakura
Gorozaemon Kiln of the new Sakakura family. The kiln was closed
during the time of the 7th generation Goro Sakakura, but rekindled
by the 10th generation Zen’emon Sakakura. Zen’emon majored infurniture at the Kobe Design University, but switched to pottery out of
his desire “not to waste the materials.” He returned to Sounose after
studying at the Tajimi City Pottery Design and Technical Center andthen training with a potter in Tajimi City. “In a sense, this kiln started
from scratch. I want to explore new paths without being restrictedby the stereotypes of Hagi ware. When I create ceramics, I keep anawareness of the presence the piece has when placed in a space.”

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坂田 澄治
Sumiharu Sakata
Approaching pottery from a frank perspective byleveraging his training in the tea ceremony
Sumiharu Sakata
Sumiharu Sakata was born in
Nagato City in 1978. He completed
a course in Ceramics at the Kyoto
Municipal Institute of Industrial
Technology and Culture in 2012.
He began training at Horinouchi
Choseian the same year and began
creating pottery at Deika Gama in2008.
Tea bowl
This bowl is created with a blendof Daido and Mishima clays. It is a
traditional example of Hagi warecoated in straw ash glaze.

Originally founded by Li Shakuko, the Sakakura Gorozaemon family split
into the two during the 7th generation in the Edo period. Sumiharu
Sakata is the 16th generation potter of the lineage. “I am the second
son of the 15th generation potter Deika Sakata, so I did not originallyintend to carry on the family business.” He however decided to enter
the world of pottery at the age of 30, and completed his studies at the
Kyoto Municipal Institute of Industrial Technology and Culture. He thenwent on to study the tea ceremony at Horinouchi Choseian. “I believe
this experience to be useful in producing tea bowls which can be said
to be the origin of Hagi ware,” he says.

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Sakakura Shinbei Kiln

十五代

Sakakura Shinbei Kiln

坂倉 新兵衛坂倉 正紘

Shinbei Sakakura, 15th generation
He seeks to create his own world of Hagi ware bybringing out the true appeal of Hagi clay

Masahiro Sakakura
He looks within himself in pursuit of a type of Hagi ware
never seen before

Shinbei Sakakura, 15th generation
Shinbei Sakakura was born in Nagato City, in 1949.
He graduated from Tokyo University of the Arts in1972 with a degree in sculpture, and the university’s
graduate course in ceramics in 1974. In 1989, hereceived the Yamaguchi Prefecture Arts and Culture
Promotion Encouragement Award. In 2013, he wascertified as an Intangible Cultural Property Holder
for his Hagi ware and is also an official member of
the Japanese Kōgei Association.

Masahiro Sakakura
Masahiro Sakakura was born in Nagato City in 1983.
He graduated from the Tokyo University of the Arts
in 2007 with a degree in sculpture, and completed his
graduate studies in sculpture at the same university
in 2009. He then studied pottery techniques for two
years at the Kyoto Municipal Institute of Industrial
Technology and Culture, after which he entered
the world of ceramics in 2011 under his father, 15th
generation potter Shinbei Sakakura.

White glazed bowl
This tea bowl was made with a base of Mishima clay
coated with Daido clay and decorated with a straw
ash glaze before firing in a climbing kiln. Shinbei, the15th generation potter, is working on a new mode ofexpression; “I want to create a new approach that further
develops the contrast between the glaze and clay,” hesays.

Hagi tea bowl, Daido powderedThis tea bowl is produced using a traditional techniquewith Hagi ware and Daido clays, but it is glazed and thenfired rather than being fired unglazed. Unlike the typicalHagi ware which prefers the soft and quiet aspect of theclay, the aim was to give a better sense of the power of theclay and fire with the burnt texture and unique alterations
during firing.

The Sakakura Shinbei Kiln is located at the far end of thestrenuous life as both an artist and manager of the pottery.

“What is Hagi ware? I want to discover the underlying

out the appeals of that clay.” It is not Hagi ware itself that

Sounose valley. This is one of the famed potteries that have

“Hagi clay has a warmth that soothes people. I want toanswer to that question,” says Masahiro Sakakura with

Masahiro wishes to express despite following the Hagi warecontinued to produce ceramics as the direct heirs to thebring out the best of that clay during my work. I combine

sparkling eyes. Heir to the famed Sakakura family’s Fukawa

techniques. He explains his own concept of Hagi ware, saying

founder of Hagi ware, Li Shakuko. 15th generation potter

Daido, Mishima, and Mitake clays, coat them with straw ash

Kiln, Masahiro star ted his own career in pottery aboutthat “Now is not the time to define Hagi ware by its colors

Shinbei Sakakura, whose grandfather, 12th generation potter

or transparent glazes, and fire them in my climbing kiln. The

10 years ago.Masahiro explains, “I had no reser vations

and techniques. I would rather be more open minded about

also named Shinbei Sakakura, known as the father of theresulting color variations expand through alteration during

at all about entering this profession.” He returned to his

its definition.” He continues, “In my own mind, Hagi ware

revitalization of Hagi ware, took over the kiln himself at thefiring. As I work and express myself through this work, I

hometown of Fukawa-Yumoto in Nagato after graduating

are the creations my father produces. I want to carry on thatage of 26. This was because his father, the 14th generation

constantly ask myself, how can I bring out the charm of theuniversity and commuted to Kyoto for two years by train.

tradition as the official output of the Sakakura Shinbei Kiln,”

Shinbei, suddenly collapsed from illness and passed away atclay?” He explains that the painted works produced using a

Since beginning his career as a potter, he began the habit

and adds, smiling, “But I myself hope to create works thatthe early age of 58. “I was only able to work alongside mypainting knife normally used in oil painting was an approachof traveling through the mountains in order to explore thehave never been seen before, that will be said to be unlike

father for three months. I learned a great deal from standing

he began to bring out the beauty of the clay. “My hope is tonature of clay as a material. He explains, “My five senses

Hagi ware. The style I inherit from my father and my own

behind my father and watching him work diligently producing

give birth to works that communicate to the future that, as

are sharpened in the mountains. Sometimes I encounterstyle will be similar but different, but not necessarily unalike.

ceramics despite his illness.”He subsequently took thea person who exists within the history of Hagi ware, it is OK

animals, and when I’m digging up clay, I imagine that people

I think they can both coexist.”Masahiro’s flexible but bravename Shinbei Sakakura XV at the age of 29. He says that hefor the 15th generation Shinbei to be this creative.”

have been creating fired pottery from clay since the Jomon

attitude will surely be the beginning of a new age of Hagi

period. The clay of this area is what inspires me to bringware.

found the world of Hagi ware that he was seeking during his

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www.visit-nagato.com

Text: Nao Omori, Tomoko Honma
Photo: Daisuke Abe, Koji Mizusaki, Seitaro Ikeda, Ryusuke Honda
Produced by Discover Japan

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