ADVANCING GENDER EQUALITY THROUGHGENDER RESPONSIVEPROCUREMENT IN THE
WATCH AND JEWELRY
INDUSTRY• A CASE STUDY •7

PRINCIPLES

Principle 1

Establish high-level corporate leadershipfor gender equality.

Principle 2

Treat all women and men fairly at work – respectand support human rights and nondiscrimination.

Principle 3

Ensure the health, safety and well-being of
all women and men workers.

Principle 4

Promote education, training and professional
development for women.

Principle 5

Implement enterprise development, supply chain
and marketing practices that empower women.

Principle 6

Promote equality through community initiatives
and advocacy.

Principle 7

Measure and publicly report on progressto achieve gender equality.

ADVANCING GENDER EQUALITY THROUGHGENDER RESPONSIVEPROCUREMENT IN THE
WATCH AND JEWELRY
INDUSTRY• A CASE STUDY •Linkedin@WEPrinciples@WEPrinciples

YouTubeDisclaimer:
The content of this case study is the sole responsibility of the authorsand does not necessarily reflect the views of the United Nations andtheir Member States. This case study uses self-reported data generated
by participating companies from using the WEPs Gender-Responsive
Procurement Assessment Tool. Participating companies shared theirresults with UN Women on voluntarily basis. The case study presents
analysis at an aggregate level and only includes the results sharedwith UN Women.

Acknowledgment
This case study was prepared by Anna Falth and Mihwa Park at the
WEPs Secretariat at UN Women with support of Iris Van der Veken
and Emilie Van Landeghem from the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030
(WJI 2030). UN Women and WJI 2030 are grateful to the active
participation of nine WEPs signatories and members of WJI 2030 inmaking the gender-responsive procurement pilot a success.
We would like to take the opportunity to thank Marie-Claire Daveu,
Kering’s Chief Sustainability Officer and Head of International
Institutional Affairs, and Cyrille Vigneron, Cartier’s President and CEO,for their commitment and unconditional support to prioritize thegender agenda through both the WJI 2030 and the WEPs.
Design: Oliver Gantner
Cover photos: Courtesy of ANZA Gems, Monica Vinader, Dimexon
and Rosy Blue
Copyright © UN Women – September 2023

Gender responsive procurement in the watch and jewelry industry

Table of contents
Foreword

4

Executive Summary6

1. Introduction

8

2. Gender-responsive procurement10

3. The watch and jewelry industry

12

4. The GRP pilot

14

5. Results and key findings

16

6. It is time for action

20

Annex: GRP resources

223

Foreword
Anna Fälth

Global Head of WEPs, UN Women
We have truly enjoyed the fruitful collaboration with the
Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 (WJI 2030) and its
members – also WEPs signatories – during the genderresponsive procurement (GRP) pilot. The findings of thepilot are covered by this case study as are ourrecommendations to pilot participants and other WEPs
signatory companies.
As the first phase of the pilot project on gender-responsive
procurement concludes, it is encouraging to witness
pilot companies’ demonstrated commitment to genderequality. Their active engagement throughout this pilot
assessment phase speaks volumes about their dedication
to fostering positive change for gender equality in theworkplace, marketplace and community. We are confident
that their commitment will inspire them as well as others
to pursue transformative approaches like GRP to advancegender equality.
Jointly with WJI 2030 and the pilot participants we are
exploring a second pilot phase to involve their suppliers,
and to co-design GRP tools and resources to continue tostrengthen gender equality in global supply chains.
Together, let us harness this momentum and redefine
the future for women across the world.

We would like to warmheartedly thank all our
WJI2030 members and WEPs signatories forchampioning gender equality in the workplace,marketplace and community.

4Gender responsive procurement in the watch and jewelry industry

Iris Van der Veken

Executive Director and Secretary General,
Watch & Jewellery 2030 Initiative
The Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 - founded by
Cartier and Kering - is driven by a common convictionthat the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) andaspiration for a sustainable watch and jewelry industry
can only be achieved through collaborative initiatives.
At the core of Pillar 3 - Fostering Inclusivity, lies the
Women’s Empowerment Principles, providing a foundationthat propels our collective commitment towards genderequality. Recognizing the WEPs’ potential holistic impact
on gender equality, we – WJI 2030 and our members –extend our reach beyond our immediate operations toencompass the entirety of the watch and jewelry
supply chain.
Our joint pilot with UN Women marks the initial step inconstructing a robust framework of tools and resources,
poised to empower companies across the jewelry sector.
Our vision is expansive, inviting all like-minded entities tojoin hands in this transformative journey. The urgency of
our mission cannot be overstated—now, more than ever,
we stand at a critical juncture to usher in change for genderequality in the workplace, marketplace and community.

We particularly thank those that joined us for thepilot: Cartier, Dimexon, Gucci, Italpreziosi, Julie
Sandlau Vietnam, Monica Vinader, Rosy Blue,
Rubel & Menasché and Swarovski.

5

Executive Summary
With halfway to meet the deadline of 2030 for the Sustainable Development
Goals, achieving gender equality will take more than 300 years.1
Tackling persistent gender inequalities is a pressing
and vital objective in today’s world, requiring ourconcentrated and unified efforts. Women continue
to confront labour market segregation, wage gaps
and limited access to leadership roles. Many arepushed into vulnerable, poorly compensated roles
devoid of legal safeguards and social security.
These hardships are compounded by risingmaternal mortality rates, claiming a woman’s life
every two minutes due to childbirth complications.
The enduring repercussions of the COVID-19
pandemic continue to impact girls, who are being
denied education and being forced into
early marriages.
Despite these challenges, gender equality remains
insufficiently prioritized in many parts of the world.
The limited presence of women in leadership roles– only 31 countries have a woman Head of Stateor Government and globally women are only 22.8
per cent of cabinet members heading ministries,
as of January 20232 – underscores theconsiderable journey that lies ahead. This gap
extends not only to the public sector but also to
the private sector, where a mere ten percent of
the largest global businesses are led by women.3
The lack of women’s representation at decisionmaking tables threatens to sideline gender equality
as a top-level concern. Paradoxically, women wieldsignificant influence in shaping family consumer
choices. In 2009, they steered around $20 trillion4
in annual consumer spending, and it is estimatedthat by 2028, women will own 75 per cent of
discretionary spend. 5 The jewelry industry
exemplifies this trend, with women driving over
90 per cent of jewelry demand. 6 Nevertheless,the industry’s leadership remains predominantly
male-dominated.
Encouragingly, there is a growing recognition within
the industry of the imperative to advance genderequality and women’s empowerment. Key industry
players are actively working to bridge the gender

6

gaps and create opportunities for women acrosstheir value chains, from mining to retail. By
acknowledging these disparities and collectively
advancing gender equality, the industry paves theway for a more just and inclusive future.
The industry is leveraging the seven Women’s
Empowerment Principles (WEPs) as acomprehensive framework and guide to advancegender equality and women’s empowerment in theworkplace, marketplace and community. These
Principles serve as a roadmap for the private
sector in the industry to drive positive outcomesfor society and business. The fifth principle – themarketplace – emphasizes placing gender equality
action at the core of business strategy andoperations, including through gender-responsive
procurement (GRP).
In 2023, UN Women introduced the WEPs
Gender-Responsive Procurement Assessment
Tool (the Tool) to help companies gauge theirprogress on GRP policies and practices. This Tool
– made up of 31 questions – identifies gaps andareas for improvement.
To test this Tool, UN Women partnered with the
Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 (WJI 2030) tolaunch a pilot programme that evaluates gender
responsive procurement in the jewelry industry.
Nine members of WJI 2030 took part in thispioneering global initiative, marking the first-everendeavor to apply the tool within a specificindustry context, and aiming to assess and enhance
gender equality practices within the jewelry
industry. Companies participating in the pilot
included Cartier, Dimexon, Gucci, Italpreziosi,
Julie Sandlau Vietnam, Monica Vinader,
Rosy Blue, Rubel & Menasché and Swarovski.

Gender responsive procurement in the watch and jewelry industry

Some common gaps and challenges surfaced among pilot participants:●

Much more work is needed to put gender-responsive procurement at the core of
their business strategies alongside ongoing efforts to advance gender equality
in the workplace.

●

While all participating companies had supplier databases, not all captured supplierdata categorized by the company owner’s gender or gender-responsiveness.

●

Most companies had not set annual targets for procurement spend with womenowned or gender responsive companies, despite this being key for trackingof progress.

The pilot identified eight broad recommendations for pilot participants and other businesses on thejourney to advance their GRP practices:

1. Develop stand-alone gender-responsive procurement policies, strategies andaction plans with clear indicators and annual targets.

2. Proactively recruit women for procurement roles – increased diversity is likely
to translate into more inclusive procurement practices.

3. Include GRP functions and responsibilities in job descriptions of purchasing roles,
starting with the chief procurement officer.

4. Ensure effective support for the GRP implementation and monitoring process.
5. Train employees on GRP, its business case and on transformative practices.
For example, prompt payments are key to facilitating engagement with SMEs
and to support women-owned business’ cash flows.

6. Set SMART targets for GRP, and track and report on GRP progress, including
on the supplier database, using sex-disaggregated data.

7. Engage suppliers to advance on gender equality and women’s empowerment
by encouraging them to adopt the Women’s Empowerment Principles.

8. Publish gender-responsive procurement results in the annual corporate
sustainability report.

7

1. Introduction
According to a UN Women report7 tracking
progress on the Sustainable Development Goals(SDGs), achieving full gender equality in workplaces,
politics, and legal realms might take a staggering
300 years at the current pace. This prolonged
timeline is due to setbacks caused by various
global challenges, including income disparities,
safety concerns, limited education access, healthissues, and the impact of the pandemic.8 The
report highlights that only one in every threemanagers or supervisors is a woman, reflecting
the persistence of the glass ceiling. Closing thisgap and achieving gender parity in the workplace
could take about 140 years.
The jewelry supply chain – the focus of this casestudy – comprises numerous individual supply
chains, each characterized by differing degrees ofcomplexity, transparency, and traceability. A large
proportion of jewelry sold in global markets iscrafted using precious metals, such as gold, silver
and platinum, along with diamonds and coloured
gemstones. These materials are mined in hundredsof countries, often in the least developed countries.9
They are then traded, cut, polished and manufac-

tured into jewelry sold in retail stores worldwide.
Women play a substantial role, propelling over
90 per cent of the demand and purchases within
the jewelry market.
However, women’s role extends beyond being
mere buyers; they actively shape decisions anddirections throughout the entire jewelry supply
chain. A contemporary shift in consumer behavior,particularly driven by millennials, demands
transparency and positive impacts across the supply
chain. This puts a spotlight on product origins andtheir effects on people and the environment.
Despite women’s significant influence, the global
jewelry industry has remained predominantly
male-dominated. At the same time, women form asubstantial portion of the downstream retail sector,
yet barriers rooted in gender inequality limit theirmarket entry or relegate them to specific roles,
determined by social norms and stereotypes.
These roles are frequently undervalued, low-skilled,
precarious and potentially exploitative, especiallyin midstream or upstream sectors.

THE WOMEN’S EMPOWERMENT PRINCIPLES
The Women’s Empowerment Principles (WEPs) offer a comprehensive guide and path for companies
to make real strides in advancing gender equality and women’s empowerment in the workplace,marketplace and community. WEPs signatories do not only contribute to positive societal change
but also enhance their own business outcomes.
These seven Principles serve as a central tool to effectively advance gender equality dimensionsof the 2030 Agenda on Sustainable Development and the Sustainable Development Goals.
In essence, the WEPs provide a practical way for businesses to actively participate in fulfillingthese global goals. WEPs also offer a platform for its signatories to openly discuss and share insights
about how gender equality directly impacts their bottom line.

8

Gender responsive procurement in the watch and jewelry industry

In 2018, BSR highlighted women’s engagement in
the jewelry supply chain, outlining a non-exhaustive
list of women employees’ key barriers andchallenges in mining, cutting and polishing andmanufacturing (see Figure 1).
The silver lining is that change within the industry
is underway. Women are stepping into roles

traditionally held by men, such as miners andgemstone cutters. Major industry players, whether
in production or sales, are recognizing the needfor change and action. They are initiating concretemeasures to foster gender equality and women’s
empowerment in the workplace, marketplace andcommunity leveraging the Women’s Empowerment
Principles (WEPs) as their roadmap. This is marking
a promising shift in the industry’s landscape.

Figure 1
Women in the jewelry supply chain

WEPs
Principle

Barriers to women’s economic
empowerment

MiningCutting andpolishingJewelry
manufacturing

Lack of formal employment opportunities

2

Lack of women in leadership and femalerole models
Low wages and poor working conditions
Exposure to health and safety hazards

3

Lack of quality childcare andfamily-friendly workplaces
Risk of child labour
Risk of sexual harassment andgender-based violence4

Low education and technical skills levels

5

Limited access to finance and business
contracts to grow their enterprises

6

Exclusion from community consultation

Source: Modified from BSR, 2018. Women in the Jewelry Supply Chain: A Landscape Review of Barriers to Women’s Economic Empowerment.

Despite remaining challenges of gender biases anddiscrimination in the workplace, the UN WomenWJI 2030 pilot initiative and this case study
specifically focus on examining the supply chain
aspect of the industry from a gender perspective.
This entails promoting sustainable and inclusive
supply chains by implementing gender-responsive
procurement that foster stronger businessconnections with gender-responsive companies
and women-owned businesses.
This is in line with the fifth WEPs principle that
centers on the marketplace and guides theimplementation of business practices related toenterprise development, supply chain management
and marketing that advance gender equality andwomen’s empowerment.

9

3. TGender-responsive procurement
2.
Gender-responsive procurement (GRP) refers to
the sustainable selection of services, goods or civil
works that considers the impact on gender equality
and women’s empowerment. It is founded oninternational standards, agreements and principles

relevant to improving gender-responsive working
conditions and essential for upholding women’sbasic rights in the supply chain. A solid organizational
code of conduct for its supply chain is the bedrock
for WEPs implementation.

WATCH & JEWELLERY INITIATIVE 2030
Driven by a common conviction that the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and aspiration fora sustainable watch and jewelry industry can only be achieved through collaborative initiatives,
Cartier, delegated by Richemont, and Kering, came together to launch the Watch & Jewellery
Initiative 2030 (WJI 2030).
WJI 2030 collaborates with industry leaders worldwide to embark on a united and ambitious
mission towards a sustainable future no matter the starting point, market segment or position in
the value chain. Welcoming all watch and jewelry companies with a national and international
footprint, its primary focus revolves around cultivating climate resilience, safeguarding precious
resources and nurturing inclusivity within the industry to ensure a better tomorrow for all.
WJI 2030 follows a collaborative approach, building upon and strengthening the ongoing efforts
in the current ecosystem. Members pledge to work together towards common objectives andtake concerted actions to drive industry transformation and innovation, aiming for sustainability
and excellence.
One main objective of the WJI 2030 is fostering inclusive, gender responsive and responsible
value chains. As a minimum baseline commitment, members are expected to:●Develop a human rights policy and conduct due diligence, report salient
human rights risks and existing mitigation measures.

●

Become a WEPs signatory and prepare a workplan for WEPs implementation.

●

Promote decent working conditions and respect for fundamental rights
at work within members’ own operations and supply chains via a publicly
available statement of policy.

WJI 2030 aims to support all its members in reaching this baseline, while recognizing that members
are at varying points in their journeys. The pilot initiative with UN Women aims to build strength
through the positive power of the collective.

10

Gender responsive procurement in the watch and jewelry industry

GRP involves companies using their purchasing
strategies, policies and practices to advancegender equality and women’s empowerment andto motivate their suppliers to improve their WEPs
performance. An essential aspect of this approachis broadening the range of suppliers by increasing
engagement with gender-responsive companies
and businesses owned by women. This diversification
is key to achieving the overarching goal of genderequality through procurement practices.
Organizations involved in GRP consider the impact
on gender equality and seek to ensure that women
workers and women’s businesses benefit fromtheir business opportunities. They also take into
account the gender power relations embedded invalue chains and market transactions whensustainably selecting services, goods or works.

GRP is a growing practice but far from being auniversal practice. The private sector spends trillionsof dollars in procurement every year, equivalent
to 72 per cent of GDP in OECD countries.10
According to McKinsey Global Institute’s 2021
report, 58 per cent of capital flows were spent on
supplier payment in corporations with revenue
exceeding US$1 billion.11 However, data on how
procurement spend with gender-responsive
companies and women-owned businesses is lacking.
Rough estimated spend with women-owned
business is less than one per cent.
According to UN Women research (see Annex),
GRP can generate a range of different benefits tocompanies:●

Unlocks market opportunities: GRP opens doors to new markets, lowers risks,and encourages innovation in products and services.

●Enhances supplier diversity: Supplier diversity drives innovation, competition,and market access, bolstering a company’s competitive edge, while mitigating
the risk of reliance on a few suppliers.

●

Increases revenue and reduced spending: GRP promotes competition forsustainable business opportunities, leading to higher revenue and cost savings.

●

Fosters a value-based culture: Aligning with the WEPs cultivates a culture thatvalues both business success and social impact. Even seemingly minor purchasing
practices can trigger a positive domino effect throughout the value chain.

●

Strengthens brand reputation: GRP boosts brand image, customer loyalty,
and staff commitment, fostering positive community impact.

●

Improves supply chain performance: GRP enhances innovation, resilience, andproductivity within supply chains.

●

Ensures compliance: Pursuing GRP aligns with reporting obligations, promoting
regulatory adherence.

11

3. TheT watch and jewelry industry
Assessing the level of gender responsive procurement in the jewelry industry provides a unique
opportunity to bring impactful changes to the industry in view of the characteristics of the industry:

1. The jewelry sectors’ supply chain is complex. It consists of multiple tiers ofcomplexity with varying levels of transparency and traceability. It involves
diverse actors, each carrying distinct risks at every stage (see Figure 2). The
supply chain presents an array of barriers to gender equality and women’s
empowerment (see Figure 1).

2. Raw materials are mined and manufactured in different parts of the world.
Local artisans are rarely at the top of the supply chain. The traceability of theorigins of precious metals and stones – like gold, silver, platinum, diamonds andcolored gemstones – is also complex as they are sourced from different countries
and continents, often least developed countries. The materials are brought toother countries to be manufactured into final jewelry products.

3. When highly valuable materials are sourced from a small number of producers– concentrating power and resources in the hands of a few – the risk ofcorruption and violence related to the control to resources, land and labour
increases. Multiple studies reveal harsh conditions in precious material mining
sites. In conflict zones, civilians, including women and children, suffer from abusive
armed groups and criminal networks exploiting precious metals, as highlighted
by Human Rights Watch’s in 2018. Indigenous peoples and other local residents
living near large-scale mines are often forcibly displaced.12

4. The industry is to a large extent controlled by men who represent the majorityof workers, leaders and decision-makers in the supply chain, limiting women’s
access to livelihoods and employment. Starting from precious metal suppliers
to exporters, distributors and manufacturer, majority of the industry is dominatedby male with patriarchal values. Decision-making positions are often held by men
throughout the jewelry supply chain, while women do work as retailers or othercustomer facing jobs.

The industry holds the power of action to promote
gender equality and women’s empowerment inthese four areas through gender-responsive
procurement, both internally and externally. These
actions can bring about positive global impacts,
ranging from developing to emerging andadvanced economies.

12

The industry has demonstrated some progress inminimizing its carbon footprint and preserving
biodiversity. Now, its focus must accelerate
towards advancing gender equality and women’s
empowerment. Enhancing the supply chain via
gender-responsive procurement presents asignificant stride towards accomplishing SDG 5.

Gender responsive procurement in the watch and jewelry industry

Figure 2
Risks in the watch and jewelry supply chain

RISKS

REFINERS

Gold, Silver,
PGM Refiners

TRADERS

Traders & Exporters
Cutters & Polishers,
Collectors & Aggregators

Gemstones and Diamonds:
environment, biodiversity,
health and safety,
human rights, ASM**

Gold, Silver and PGM:
environment, health andsafety, human rights &supply chains, productintegrity and disclosure, AML
Gemstones and Diamonds:
human rights & supply chains,product integrity and disclosure& transparency, health & safety,
working conditions, AML****MANUFACTURERS

Manufacturers:
human rights & supply
chains, product integrity anddisclosure, health & safety

WHOLESALERS

Wholesalers:
human rights & supply
chains, product integrity
and disclosure

Watch & jewelry
manufacturers,
wholesalers, retailers
and service industry

Gold, Silver and PGM:
environment, biodiversity,
health and safety, humanrights, ASM, FPIC***RETAILERSRetailers:
human rights & supply
chains, product integrity
and disclosure

SERVICE INDUSTRY

Service industry:human rights & supply
chains, product integrity anddisclosure, grading analysis& appraisal* PGM: Platinum Group Metals*** FPIC: Free, Prior, and Informed Consent** ASM: Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining**** AML: Anti-Money Laundering

Gold, Silver and PGM:
human rights & supply
chains, product integrity
and disclosure &transparency, AML

13Climate and biodiversity

Diamonds, Gemstones,
Precious Metals(Gold, Silver, PGM*)

RAW MATERIALS(MINING)

Human rights, working conditions, product integrity

SUPPLY CHAIN

4. The GRP pilot
In 2023, UN Women developed the WEPs Genderresponsive Procurement Assessment Tool (the Tool)in consultation with WEPs signatories based in
Asia and the Pacific and the European Union.
Participating companies helped ensure that thequestions reflect real-life company practice andadherence to international standards and indicators.

1. Gender equality commitments
made by the company

2. Procurement policy
and strategy

3. Internal procurement andsupply chain management

To further expand the testing of the tool withcompanies in global supply chains, UN Women
teamed up with the WJI 2030 and extended aninvitation to its members – also WEPs signatories –to participate in a pilot of the Tool.

4. Supplier databaseand reporting

5. Supplier engagementand diversification.

Photo: Monica Vinader

The Tool enables companies to assess their progress
on GRP policies and practices that advance genderequality and women’s empowerment and identifies
gaps and areas for improvement. It consists of 31
questions in five main areas:

14

Gender responsive procurement in the watch and jewelry industry

Companies received scores based on their responses
to the 31 questions, with each question carrying
equal weight. These scores were then totaled foreach of the five themes, along with the highest
achievable score for reference. Additionally,an overall score was assigned (with a maximumof 78 points), categorizing the company’s GRP
maturity as Beginner, Improver, Achiever, or
Leader. See score ranges in Figure 3.
The Pilot officially kicked off in February 2023,
with the aim to assess the level of GRP of the WJI
2030 participating member companies tounderstand their challenges and areas for
improvement in the supply chain.
Nine members – all WEPs signatories – participatedin this pilot, including Cartier, Dimexon, Gucci,
Italpreziosi, Julie Sandlau Vietnam, Monica Vinader,
Rosy Blue, Rubel & Menasché and Swarovski.

The representatives of these companies(the participants) were given three months tocoordinate internally, complete the assessment
and review their scores generated by the Tool.
During this period, the participants met regularly
with the UN Women and WJI 2030 teams to better
understand the Tool and to clarify definitions andconcepts used to assess their GRP maturity.
The Group also discussed the aggregated findings
and results to better understand the collective
challenges in GRP operationalization andimplementation. The participants had the option toreach out to their suppliers to have them complete
the GRP assessment as well. One company opted
to do so. However, those results are not includedin this case study.

Figure 3
Levels of GRP maturity

LEADER
ACHIEVER
IMPROVER

BEGINNER(51-78 points)(41-50 points)(21-40 points)(0-20 points)

15

5. Results and key findings13
Figure 4
GRP maturity of pilot participants

Le

ade

r

Photo: Italpreziosi SPA

Most of the respondents indicated that they hadtaken initial steps on gender-responsive
procurement or wanted to start this practice byparticipating in this pilot. Overall, a large majorityof participating companies were beginners
and improvers.

16

Achieve

gin n erThough the participants had good understandingof gender equality in their business, GRP proved
to be a new area of work for most of them. A large
majority of participants lacked any GRP measure.
Those that had GRP policies in place lacked
systematic tracking of GRP spend with genderresponsive suppliers.

Ber

All pilot participants, who shared their results with
UN Women, exhibited a good understanding ofgender equality. Each respondent had a genderpolicy or strategy in place either being implemented
or in development. All participants were signatoriesof the WEPs, with the majority publicly reporting
their gender equality progress through platforms
such as the UN Women’s WEPs, EDGE, Equileap,
Bloomberg or other avenues.

Im

p ro

ve r

Gender responsive procurement in the watch and jewelry industry

From the Assessment and the discussions during the three-month period, common areas of gaps andchallenges were identified:

1. Companies should prioritize integrating gender-responsive procurement into

their core business strategy. While participants have made strides in advancing
gender equality and women’s empowerment in their corporate strategies andoperations, a significant number lacked a dedicated GRP policy or strategy.
Few respondents indicated having either a stand-alone GRP policy or embedding
GRP within their broader company-wide procurement strategy and policy.

2. Although all respondents had a supplier database, not everyone captured

sex-disaggregated data on their suppliers. While data tracking was generallycommendable, there is room for improvement by integrating a gender perspective.
A large majority of respondents collected supplier data without a gender lens.
Given that GRP involves sourcing from diverse companies that are either genderresponsive or women-owned, disaggregating supplier data by sex and WEPs
signatory status becomes crucial for measuring and monitoring progress.

3. Despite the significance of establishing key performance indicators (KPIs)

for monitoring progress and outcomes, none of the participating companies
had defined annual objectives for procurement spend with women-owned or
gender responsive companies. Similar trends were observed for broader goals
involving diverse suppliers, including SMEs, where only one respondent has set
annual targets.

17

SUPPLIER DATA – SAMPLE KPIs FOR GENDERRESPONSIVE COMPANIESCollecting supplier data disaggregated by sex and WEPs signatory status is a pivotal
step for companies to advancing gender equality throughout their supply chains. It
empowers them to make well-informed decisions, monitor progress and demonstrate
their commitments to creating a more equitable and inclusive world.
GRP involves two main target groups of suppliers:

1. Companies that are to >50 per cent owned, controlled and managed
by women. The standard was developed by ISO in 2021.14

2. Gender-responsive companies. There is no globally defined set of indicators

Photo: SWAROVSKI

for gender-responsive companies. However, the WEPs signatory status
could be used as a proxy indicator. UN Women research indicates that
WEPs signatories perform significantly better on gender equality thannon-signatory companies.15

18

Gender responsive procurement in the watch and jewelry industry

The WEPs Transparency and Accountability Framework provides WEPs signatories witha holistic set of 69 indicators that are most likely to advance gender equality acrosscorporate value chains.16
For the purpose of this case study, a shorter list of proposed indicators that could be used
to assess the gender-responsiveness of suppliers include:
Qualitative
The Company….
●

is a WEPs signatory (y/n)●

has a gender action plan (y/n)●

reports publicly on gender equality/WEPs (y/n)●

has a gender-responsive supplier code of conduct (y/n)●

has a confidential, anonymous grievance, resolution, reporting andnon-retaliation mechanism and procedure to address and respond toincidents of violence and harassment (y/n)●

The company implements GRP measures (y/n)

Quantitative17●

Women and men employees (%)●

Women and men in senior management positions (%)●

Women and men on the company board (%)●

Women’s salary to men’s salary (%)●

Newly hired employees – women and men (%)●

Promotions and career opportunities – women and men (%)●

Retention of women and men employees taking parental leave (%)

19

6. It is time for action
The pilot has illuminated a path paved with eightcomprehensive recommendations, not only for thepioneering participants but also for fellow businesses
committed to elevating their GRP practices.

These recommendations extend a compelling
invitation to all those who aspire to elevate theirpractices and champion gender equality andwomen’s empowerment.

1. Develop stand-alone gender-responsive procurement policies, strategies andaction plans with clear annual indicators and targets. Having a procurement
policy that addresses sourcing from diverse suppliers and SMEs is a goodstarting point. However, companies that take a step further, dedicating theirefforts to sourcing from gender-responsive companies, and women-owned
enterprises while enacting GRP practices will emerge as powerful agents ofchange, making a profound impact on gender equality. While there is no
globally defined indicator for gender-responsive companies, being a WEPs
signatory can be a good proxy indicator.18

2. Ensure effective support in the GRP implementation and monitoring process.
This entails establishing a robust, well-resources organizational strategy.
A clear roadmap should delineate key steps essential for achieving objectives
and targets along with defining roles, responsibilities and accountable parties
for achieving results. An effective communication strategy for internal andexternal stakeholders is paramount, shedding light on their respective roles
and responsibilities.

3. Empower employees through GRP training, enlightening them about its

business rationale and guiding them towards tangible and concrete steps inreshaping current practices. While top management support is fundamental toembedding gender equality and women’s empowerment into the company’s corebusiness strategy, the main challenge lies with the middle management andprocurement specialists responsible for the company’s purchasing of goods andservices. Many businesses struggle to get a full understanding or buy in frommiddle management on gender equality. Thus, tailoring specialized training forthis group could be a catalyst for advancing GRP practices across the entire
company. Pairing such training with an accountability mechanism, such as theannual performance review and bonus incentives, could serve to bolster
commitment and drive transformative change.

4. Collect sex-disaggregated data and report regularly on progress made.

Transparency could serve as a linchpin to propel advancement on genderequality and women’s empowerment. Companies that engage both internaland external stakeholders to gather data can better evaluate the status of GRP
implementation. Updating the existing supplier database by adding a genderlens and disaggregation marks an impactful initial step. Encouraging andincentivizing suppliers to furnish such data inputs can trigger important ripple
effects throughout the supply chain, ultimately fueling the momentum for genderequality and women’s empowerment.

20

Gender responsive procurement in the watch and jewelry industry

5. Actively seek out women for procurement roles. Fostering diversity is poised

to cultivate more inclusive procurement practices. This includes appointing womento influential managerial and executive procurement positions, including pivotal
roles like the Chief Procurement Officer (CPO).19

6. Embed GRP functions and responsibilities within job descriptions of purchasingroles, starting with the CPO. 20 This entails establishing accountability for GRP
results across all managerial levels. For example, embedding key performanceindicators on gender equality in performance plans and assessments, from top
executives and staff as well as suppliers, contractors and vendors, ensurescomprehensive responsibility for GRP success.

7. Engage suppliers on gender equality and women’s empowerment:• Identify suppliers: Implement regular supplier questionnaires toenhance the understanding of their offerings, needs, and values,
including gender equality.
• Encourage progress: Motivate suppliers to advance on genderequality standards and uphold accountability to demonstrate yourcompany’s genuine values and commitment to GRP.
• Establish a code of conduct: Create a gender-responsive suppliercode of conduct and train suppliers for adherence and compliancewith its requirements.
• Adopt the WEPs: Encourage suppliers to sign on and embrace theWEPs, publicly pledging to advance gender equality and women’s
empowerment in their workplace, marketplace and community.
• Facilitate business opportunities: Foster improved transparency
and communication to facilitate access for women-owned businesses
to valuable business prospects.
• Support smaller businesses: Bolster women-owned businesses’
cash flow by implementing payment terms of less than 30 days,
along with prompt payments.

8. Publish gender-responsive procurement results in annual corporate

sustainability reports. Transparency and accountability are key to advancing
gender equality and women’s empowerment. This entails adding a section
on gender equality in the company’s annual corporate sustainability report,
including the yearly GRP results.

21

Annex: GRP resources

www.weps.org/resource/wepsgender-responsive-procurementassessment-tool

www.weps.org/resource/genderresponsive-procurement22

www.weps.org/resource/power-procurementhow-source-women-owned-businesses

Gender responsive procurement in the watch and jewelry industry

www.weps.org/resource/rethinking-genderresponsive-procurement-enabling-ecosystemwomens-economic-empowerment

www.weps.org/resource/procurementsstrategic-value-why-gender-responsiveprocurement-makes-business-sensewww.weps.org/resource/building-genderresponsive-procurement-lessons-researchand-practicewww.weps.org/resource/legal-frameworksgender-responsive-procurement-comparativereview-regulatory-and-policy

23

Endnotes
1.

United Nations, 2023. Secretary-General warns of‘baked-in’ gender discrimination in technology,
decries rights roll-backs, opening Commission on the
Status of Women, 8 March 2023. Available at: press.
un.org/en/2023/sgsm21713.doc.htm

2.

UN Women, 2023. Facts and figures: Women’s
leadership and political participation. Available at:www.unwomen.org/en/what-we-do/leadership-andpolitical-participation/factsand-figures3.

Fortune, 2023. Women CEOs run more than 10% of
Fortune 500 companies for the first time in history.
Available at: fortune.com/2023/01/12/fortune-500companies-ceos-women-10-percent/ and www.shrm.
org/executive/resources/pages/women-fortune-5002023.aspx#:~:text=The%20Jan.,at%20consulting%
20firm%20Korn%20Ferry

4.

5.

Nielsen, 2020, Wise up to Women. Available at: www.
nielsen.com/insights/2020/wise-up-to-women/

6.

BSR, Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Netherlands
and Swarovski, 2018. Women in the Jewelry Supply
Chain: A Landscape Review of Barriers to Women’s
Economic Empowerment. Available at: https://www.
bsr.org/en/reports/women-jewelry-supply-chainlandscape-review-barriers-economic-empowerment

7.

8.

9.

24

Michael J. Silverstein and Kate Sayre, 2009. The
Female Economy, Harvard Business Review,
September 2009. Available at: hbr.org/2009/09/
the-female-economy

UN Women, 2022. Progress on the Sustainable
Development Goals: The gender snapshot 2022.
Available at: www.unwomen.org/en/digital-library/publications/2022/09/progress-on-the-sustainabledevelopment-goals-the-gender-snapshot-2022
UN Women, 2022. Press release: Achieving full genderequality is still centuries away, warns the United Nations
in a new report, 7 September 2022. Available at:www.unwomen.org/en/news-stories/press-release/2022/09/press-release-achieving-full-genderequality-is-still-centuries-away-warns-the-unitednations-in-a-new-report
BSR, Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Netherlands andSwarovski, 2018. Women in the Jewelry Supply Chain:
A Landscape Review of Barriers to Women’s Economic
Empowerment. Available at: https://www.bsr.org/en/reports/women-jewelry-supply-chain-landscapereview-barriers-economic-empowerment

10. UN Women, 2022. Procurement’s strategic value: Why
gender-responsive procurement makes business sense.
Available at: www.unwomen.org/sites/default/files/
2022-04/Procurements-strategic-value-en.pdf
11.

James Manyika et al., McKinsey Global Institute, 2021.
A new look at how corporations impact the economy
and households. Discussion paper, June 2021.
Available at: www.mckinsey.com/capabilities/strategyand-corporate-finance/our-insights/a-new-look-at-howcorporations-impact-the-economy-and-households

12. Human Rights Watch, 2018. Behind the shine: A callto action for the jewelry industry. 8 February 2018.
Available at: https://www.hrw.org/news/2018/02/08/
behind-shine-call-action-jewelry-industry
13. To ensure the confidentiality of the assessment results,
this report presents all findings at an aggregate level.
14. See ISO, 2021. IWA 34:2021, Women’s entrepreneurship— Key definitions and general criteria. Available here:
www.iso.org/standard/79585.html
15. UN Women, 2021. A snapshot of 350 companies in
G7 countries. Available here: www.weps.org/resource/
snapshot-350-companies-g7
16. UN Women, 2021. WEPs Transparency andAccountability Framework – A Reference Guide.
Available at: www.weps.org/resource/wepstransparency-and-accountability-frameworkreference-guide17.

See UN Women, 2022. Equality Means Business: WEPs
Brochure, Annex III (p.70) for definitions. www.weps.
org/resource/equality-means-business-weps-brochure

18. WEPs signatories tend to be more advanced on genderequality than non-signatory companies. See for example,
UN Women, 2021. Women’s Empowerment Principles:
A snapshot of 350 companies in the G7. Available at:www.weps.org/resource/snapshot-350-companies-g7
19. UN Women, 2023. Women’s Empowerment Principles,
Checklist for gender-responsive recruitment. Available
for WEPs signatories at: www.weps.org/resource/
checklist-gender-responsive-recruitment
20. For a sample job description for procurement
professionals, see UN Women, 2020. GenderResponsive Procurement, Guidance Note. Available
here: www.weps.org/resource/gender-responsiveprocurement

Photo: TacheLinkedin

weps.org
weps@unwomen.org@WEPrinciples@WEPrinciples

YouTube