Installation and Operating Instructions

1710 Insert

For use in North America

Read this entire manual before you install and use your new room heater. If this room
heater is not properly installed, a house fire may result. To reduce the risk of fire, follow
the installation instructions. Failure to follow instructions may result in property damage,bodily injury, or even death.
Contact local building officials about restrictions and installation/inspection-requirements
in your area.
Save these instructionsMORSØ JERNSTØBERI A/S . DK-7900 NYKØBING MORSE-Mail: stoves@morsoe.com · Website: www.morsoe.com
Distributed by: Morso US LLC
1011 Highway 52 West - Portland TN - 37148 - USA1

We congratulate you on your choice of a Morsø stove. Morsø hasbeen producing some of the world’s best stoves since 1853. If you
follow this installation- and operating instruction carefully, we canassure you many years of warmth and pleasure.

Optional Accessories
A wide range of accessories (such as handling gloves, fireside tools, glass cleaner and heatproof
paint) are available for use with your Morsø stove. They help with day-to-day running andmaintenance. Contact your Morsø dealer for more information.
The Morsø 1710 Insert meets the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s emission limits forwood heaters sold on or after July 1, 1990
The Morsø 1710 Insert have been tested by OMNI-Test Laboratories, Inc. The test standards
are ANSI/UL-1482 for the United States and ULC S627 for Canada.

The stove is listed for burning wood only. Do not burn other fuels.
Under specific test conditions this heater has been shown to deliver heat at rates ranging from12,000 to 39,000 Btu/hr.

Cast ironCast iron is a live material. There are no two ovens that are identical. This is partly due to thetolerances of the casting process, partly because the ovens are a work of craftsmanship.

3
2

CONTENTS:
1.0

Installation of your Morsø stove
1.1
The chimney / flue system
1.2
Flue Connection
1.3
Connection to existing chimney
1.4
Positioning the stove

4
7
8
8
10

2.0

Operation
2.1
Before you start firing
2.2
Lighting and loading intervals

12
12
13

3.0

Maintenance
3.1
Exterior maintenance
3.2
Internal maintenance
3.3
Cleaning the Stove and the Flue
3.4
Leaving the stove for extended periods
3.5
Parts diagram
3.6
Parts list

16
16
16
18
20
21
22

3

1.0 Installation of your Morsø stove
Installation of woodburning stoves must be safe and legal.
If your Morsø stove is not installed correctly, it may cause a house fire. To reduce
the risk of fire, the installation instructions must be followed carefully. Contact the
local building officials about restrictions and installation inspection in your area.
Before you start installing your stove, make sure that:- The stove and chimney connection are placed far enough from combustible materials tomeet all clearance requirements.
- The floor protection must be adequate and must be made correctly according to the requirements.
All neccessary approvals are needed from the local building officials.
The data plate, which is located on the back of the stove, provides information regarding safety
testing information, name of certified testing laboratory, and installation requirements.
Installation requirements vary in different districts, and the local building officials have the final
authorization to approve your installation. You should discuss the installation with them before
beginning. Please ask your dealer for further information.
There are numerous ways of building achimney. We will just describe a couple ofmountings of the insert.
The MORSØ 1710 insert can be installed as
described below. The 1710 can also be used
as a build-in stove with masonry/chimney
construckted for the size of the outer steel box,
as shown on the front page of this manual
1. Remove the existing damper, if there is one.
(Fig. 1)
2. It is easier to make adjustments to the
mansonry surrounding the insert, when theheavy cast iron insert is not connected tothe steel box. (see item a-f page 5). Use thesteel box as a template for the mansonry
adjustments
3. It is important to leave a gap of few
millimeters between the steel box and the
mansonry because of increasing size when
warmed up.
If possible leave 25-30 mm. and fill up the
gap with heat resistant insulation material.
As shown in figure A, the steel box must
project 10 mm. from the mansonry. The steel
box should be adjusted by support

5
4

Dimensions in milimeters

Dismantling the steel-box

a. Lift and remove the front grate.

b. Lift the lower baffleplate a bit and holdin that position. Carefully lift and remove
the two side bricks.

c. Remove the firebrick from the backwall

d. Remove the lower baffleplatee. The upper baffleplate is removed fromthe brackets and lifted out of the firechamper

f. Unscrew the 2 bolts, which is mounted
to the stainless steel baffle Dismantle theflue collar. Pull out the cast iron insert
from the steel box

5material until the bottom becomes horizontal. It
is an advantage to fasten the box by two screws
drilled through the bottom 2-3 cm. from thecorners of the back.
Figure 2:
The connection between the insert and thechimney is made by a dia. 155 mm. fluecollar,
which is fasten in the smoke pipe socket by theenclosed selfcutting screws (spoil in the boringdia. 3 mm.) and tightened by the enclosed
fireproof seal. Tighten between smoke pipe andchimney with fireproof clay. It is important to use
a pipe bush and fireproof seal in order to avoid
cracks in the fireproof clay, caused by thermal
exspansion of the smoke pipe. If no access door
exists beforehand, as shown in figure 2, it may be
an advantage to mount one. Thus the mountingof the smoke pipe is facilitated and some times
it is a demand from the building authorities. In
order to obtain a correct execution of the above,it might be an advantage to consult the local
chimneysweep or the building authorities.
4. Lift and push the insert in its place in the steel
box. Assemble the internal of the stove and flue
collar. (see item a-f page 5, reverse order)
5. The initial fire should be small in order to properly
cure the cast iron parts. Allow the stove to warm
up before creating a very hot fire. Never let thestove become superheated. Superheating may
damage the casting, fire bricks and the Senotherm
painted finish. Superheating is when any part ofthe stove, grates or stove pipe assumes a red
glow

Dimensions in milimeters
Do not connect to any air distribution duct or system.
Important: If the installation instructions are not followed carefully, it may cause
dangerous situations like chimney - and house fires. Follow the instructions
carefully and do not deviate from them as it may cause injuries to people orproperty.

7
6

1.1 The chimney / flue system
Note that the flue system must be independently secured and must not rely on the stove forsupport.
The stove must not be connected to a chimney flue serving any other appliance.
(Several flues may run up a single chimney stack; use one flueway per appliance).
Use a residential type masonry or listed type HT factory-built chimney.
High Temperature (H.T.) Chimney Standard UL-103-1985 (2100º F.) for the USA, andHigh Temperature (650ºC) Standard ULC S-629 for Canada.
The internal dimensions of the chimney connector and chimney must not be less than 6 inches
diameter (or equivalent cross section), and should not be significantly larger than this. Toolarge a section will tend to allow the flue gases to cool excessively, causing sluggishness or
unpredictability in the stove’s performance.
We recommend the length of the chimney system should be at least 16 feet (not required) above
the stove in normal domestic situations, measured from the flue collar to the top of the chimney.
Local conditions like for example - roof constructions, large trees nearby and high altitude, may
influence the chimney draft and height. Therefore, contact the local professional chimney sweep oryour Morsø dealer.

Typical Factory-Built or Masonry Chimney Installations

7

1.2 Flue Connection
The stove is supplied from the factory with a flue collar fitted to the top plate.
The flue collar is from the factory prepared for fitting the enlosed 6 inche adapter.
Use a 24 MSG black or blue chimney connector or listed double wall chimney connector. Referto local codes and the chimney manufacturer’s instructions for precautions required for passing
a chimney through a combustible wall or ceiling. Remember to secure the chimney connector
with a minimum of three screws to the product and to each adjoining section.
Position the stove and connect to the flue system.
Wear gloves and protective eyewear when drilling, cutting or joining sections ofchimneyconnector.

1.3 Connection to the existing chimney
A Chimney connector is the double-wall or single-wall pipe that connects the stove to the.
chimney.
The chimney itself is the masonry or prefabricated structure that encloses the flue.
Chimney connectors are used only to connect the stove to the chimney.
Double-wall connectors must be tested and listed for use with solid-fuel burning appliances.
Single-wall connectors should be made of 24 gauge or heavier gauge steel. Do not use
galvanized connector; it cannot withstand the high-temperatures that smoke and exhaustgases can reach, and may release toxic fumes under high heat. The connector must be 6 inches(150mm) in diameter.
If possible, do not pass the chimney connector through a combustible wall or ceiling.
If passage through a combustible wall is unavoidable, refer to the sections on Wall
Pass- Throughs. Do not pass the connector through an attic, a closet or similar
concealed space when installing the chimney connectors.
It is important to keep the flue gases moving smoothly in the right direction. Do not vent into alarge void at this location; rather form one continuous section all the way up. Use mild bends(e.g. 45º vs. 90º) rather than sharp angles where a change of direction is required. All parts ofthe venting must be accessible for cleaning purposes.
In horizontal runs of chimney, maintain a distance of 18 inches from the ceiling. Keep it asshort and direct as possible, with no more than two 90 degree turns. Slope horizontal runs ofconnector upward 1/4 inch per foot (20 mm per metre) going from the stove toward the chimney.
The recommended maximum length of a horizontal run is 3 feet (1 metre), and the total length
should be no longer than 8 feet (2.5 metres).
Information on assembling and installing connectors is provided by the manufacturer’s
instructions exactly as you assemble the connector and attach it to the stove and chimney.
Be sure the installed stove and chimney connector are correct distances from near by
combustible materials. See the clearance paragraph page 8.

9
8

9

1.4 Positioning the stove
CLEARANCE TO COMBUSTIBLE SURFACES REQUIREMENTS:
The floor in front of the fireplace requires thermal projection of 1 inch (25 mm) thick muneral fiber millboard with a value ofk=84 BYU/IN FT² HR °F when the floor is 3 inches or more
below the bottom opening of the fireplace extending out 18 inches (455 mm).

INSTALLLATIONUNITED STATESCANADA		

A
15”
381mm

B
29”
838mm

C
22”
635mm

D
8”
200mm

E*
18”
455mm

F
8”
200mm

Do NOT install in a mobile home
Distance to furniture
The recommended minimum distance from stove to furniture is 30 inches. Note that somefurniture is more easily affected by heat and may need to be moved to a greater distance. Thisis your responsibility.
In addition other combustible materials, away from the stove. In general, a distance of 30 inches
must be maintained between the stove and moveable combustible item such as drying clothes,newspapers, firewood etc.

1110Note:
Acid Protection
If acid-washing the masonry around the stove, protect the stove surface with an acid-proof
cover
Fresh Air Inlet
Unless there is deemed to be sufficient ambient leakage of air into the room via doorways,
windows and the like, a dedicated fresh air inlet will be needed. This inlet should have 2
square inches (1250 square mm) of free air space. This is particularly important where theroom is well sealed, or where an extractor hood or ventilation system disturbs the natural airpressure. Such an inlet should not be on a wall that is usually subject to negative pressure
from normal wind pattern. Avoid placing the inlet directly across the room from the stove,
thus causing a cold air draft.

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2.0 Operation
2.1 Before you start firing
For Use with Solid Wood Fuel Only. Do Not Overfire, If Heater or Chimney Connector
Glows You Are Overfiring. Inspect and Clean Chimney Frequently. Under Certain
Conditions of use creosote buildup may occur rapidly. Because of risk of smoke andflame spillage, operate only with door fully closed.
Caution:
Hot while in operation. Keep children, clothing and furniture away. Contact may cause
skin burns.
Do not use chemicals or fluids to start the fire.
Do not burn garbage or flammable fluids.
Do not use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter or fluid orsimilar liquids to start or freshen up a fire in this heater. Keep all such liquids away fromthe heater while it is in use.
Choosing your fuelAll types of natural wood can be burned on your stove, but they must be well-seasoned and dry.
Once the wood is cut to length, it should be split down middle - to suit the dimensions given
below - to allow moisture to evaporate.
Cut the wood to a length of max 16 inches (40 cm) and approx. 3 to 3.5 inches (7-8 cm) in
section. If you can weigh your wood, aim for around 2 lbs. For correct combustion and heat
output, wood fuel should contain no more than 20% moisture; this can easily be checked byusing the Morsø Moisture Meter (part # 62929900)
To naturally season wood fuel, stack and store it under cover in an airy location where fresh air
can move through each piece. Some soft woods may take as little as one good summer to season
whereas harder woods such as oak, maple, and elm may require seasoning up to 18 months.
Avoid overly dry wood that is gray in color as under certain conditions it can cause performance
problems, such as back-puffing and sluggishness. Well seasoned wood will be light to hold andwill show signs of cracking from the center-out in the ends. If your wood spits or sizzles whenburnt, and your stove’s door glass persistently mists up, your wood is not properly seasoned.
Never use drift wood (from the sea), whose salt content may cause corrosion, nor construction
wood that may have been impregnated with chemicals.
Starting the first fire
The initial fire should be small, so that the stove paint can cure and the main plates ofthe stove can settle into position. Some fumes will be given off by the paint. Ventilate theroom during this phase.
The setting of the valve, lighting techniques and loading intervals will depend on chimney
draft, the fuel used, the heat required and so on. Some basic techniques are outlined
below.

1312

n principle
Your stove has four air supplies:
Primary air is controlled by the upper air controler of the door. The air eventually washes at highspeed down the back face of the door glass. This super-heated air helps with the combustionof volatile gases produced by the fire.
Secondary air is supplied to the top of the fire through holes in the tubes under the lower baffle.
This effectively burns off other residual gases, making for very clean emissions. This air supply
is constant and cannot be varied.
The lower air controler on the door is only for use the first 5 minutes during the light-up period.
This controler supplies air up through the bottom grate and will help achtivate the embers. Under
normal conditions it is not necessary to use this air and the controler must be closed.
Pilot air is supplied to the coalbed through a hole in the tube placed behind the front grate. Thisair will achtivate the embers. This air supply is constant and cannot be varied.

2.2 Lighting and loading intervals
When first lighting the stove, a large volume of air is needed. When the stove is cold, you should
leave the door open an inch or two for the first few minutes and open the primary air
supply completely. While the door is open, do not leave the stove unattended.
To form a reasonable bed of ash on the floor of the stove, you should use 5-6 inches thickness(2-4 pound) of dry kindling at the initial lighting. Always maintain a 1-1,5 inch (2-3 cm) layerof ash on the floor of the combustion chamber at all other times.
Open the lower controler a bit, if you are experience poor draft in the chimney. Use only thiscontroler during the first 5 minutes after light up. Keep the controler closed afterwards.

1. A layer of embers will form rapidly if
the stove is lit with fire lighters or 7-10
rolled up sheets of newspaper, underneath roughly 4-5 lb. of dry kindling

2. Light the fire13

3. Fully open the upper air controler sothat the primary air supply can enter thefirebox4. After the paper/fire lighters havecaught fire, leave the fire door ajar about
1 inch, so that the chimney draws well

5. After 5-10 minutes the chimney draft
should be established, at this point close
the fire door. If all the necessary conditions
are met, a nice layer of embers will start toaccumulate after another 15-20 minutes.

6. Refuelling of your stove should be done
while there are still glowing embers in thebed. Spread the embers across the bottom,
but concentrated mostly towards the frontof the stove

7. Place 3-4 pieces of fuel weighing roughly
4-6 lb. across the embers in one layer, withspacing of roughly 1 inch between thepieces of wood.

8. When the primary air supply (upper
controler) is open all the way and the door
is closed, the new fuel will ignite in a few
minutes15
14

9. Once the new fuel has taken, adjust the
primary air amount to the desired setting;
optimal combustion will continue until
glowing embers are produced.

10. A new charge of wood can be addedby repeating steps 6 & 7.

Do not for any reason attempt to increase the firing of your heater by altering the aircontrol adjustment range outlined in these directions.
Warning: Fireplace stoves must never be left unattended with doors open.
If the door is left partly open, gas and flame may be drawn out of the fireplace stove
opening, creating risks from both fire and smoke. We recommend you to fit a smoke
detector in the room where the stove is installed.
DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER. Overfiring may cause a house fire, or can result inpermanent damage to the stove. If any part of the stove glows, you are overfiring.
The maximum recommended weight of wood fuel per load is 2.5 kg/h/5.5Ibs (approx 3 splitlogs).
Under normal firing, the average flue temperature in the stove pipe, measured 20 cm above
the stove, is approx. 300° C (550°F). The maximum flue temperature in the stove pipe must
not exceed 450° C (750°F). If the flue temperature exceeds 450°C (750°F), it is considered asover firing and may cause premature wear and tear of the stove.
To help gauge the correct running temperature of your stove, we recommend you use theMorsø Flue Gas Thermometer (part # 62901200). The Flue Gas Thermometer magneticallyattaches onto the stove pipe approx 20 cm (8”) above the stove’s top plate and measures thesurface temperature of the stove pipe. Please see your authorized Morsø Dealer for availability.

15

Draft conditions
If smoke or fumes come out of your stove when lightning up and reloading, or if the fire simply
will not respond, a poor draft is almost certainly to blame. (In a very few cases, there may beinsufficient fresh air getting into the room - see installation advice above). Take advice from yourstove supplier on how best to upgrade your flue system to improve draft.
Rules of woodburning
If you want less heat, put fewer logs on the stove and reduce the amount of air. It is still important
to maintain a good layer of embers.
Less heat - less wood - less air
Greater heat - more wood - more air
Soot deposits will settle on the glass if the stove is run too slowly or if your wood is
not well seasoned.

3.0 Maintenance
When perfoming maintenance on your stove, always protect yourself, using safety
goggles and gloves.

3.1 Exterior Maintenance
The stove surface is painted with heat-resistant Senotherm paint. It is best kept clean byvacuuming with a soft brush attachment or by wiping with a lint-free cloth.
Over a period of time, the painted surface may become slightly grey. A can of Morsø touch-up
spray paint should be available from your stove supplier. This can be applied - in accordancewith the instructions - in just a few minutes. When first firing after touching up, the stove will giveoff a slight smell as the paint cures. Make sure to ventilate the room well during this phase.

3.2 Internal maintenanceGlass
If the stove is generally run at the correct temperatures, there should be little or no dirt on theglass. If dirt does settle during lighting, most will burn off as temperatures increase.For heavier
deposits that will not burn off, use morsø glass cleaner, applied when the glass is cold, in
accordance with the instructions. Never use abrasive cleaners on the glass surface.

17
16

Reasons for dirty glass· Fuel too wet· Logs too large or not split· Combustion temperatures too low
Replace broken glass immediately.
Do not operate your stove if the glass in the door is damaged.
If you need to replace the glass, it should be replaced with the high temperature ceramic class
supplied by Morsø, contact your Morsø dealer.
Installing the glass
Never install the glass when the stove is in function.
Ceramic glass replacement
Ceramic glass cannot be recycled because it has a higher melting point that ordinary glass.
If ceramic glass is mixed with ordinary glass, the raw material is spoiled, and the reclaiming
process may be halted. Take care that the ovenproof glass does not end up among ordinary
recycled waste. That will be a great benefit to the environment.
Note: Should be handed in to a recycling station as ceramic glass.
1. Lift the door off its hinges an place face down on
a sheet of cardboards or other non-abrasieve fabric.
2. Unscrew the eight bolts that secure the glass. (Inthe event that a bolt sheers off when being unscrewed,
remove the remaining body of the bolt by drilling
down its cnetre with 1/8 inch high speed steel drill
bit. Smaller drill bits may be successful, but do not
use a lager bit. Make sure the bit stays away fromthe edges of the bolt - this may damage the threadin the cast iron).
3. Remove the old ceramic gaskets and clean up thesurface underneath with wire wool or emery paper toremove loose particles.
4. Place the new gasket material in position around the perimeter of the window area, making
sure to pinch them to the length in such a way that they make a continuous seal.
Leave no gaps.
5. Place the new glass in position on the strips and screw home the fresh bolts and fitting by hand.

176. Finally, give each of the bolts an extra half turn or so. The glass should held tight enoughby that cleaning will not dislodge it. Do not over-tighten the bolts as this may put excessive
pressure on the glass, resulting in cracking - important!
To reduce the risk of breaking the glass, avoid striking the glass or slamming thedoor.
Internal service parts
The flame-path equipment - consisting of the ashpan, grate, firebricks, glass, baffle and flue
collar - are subject to the extremes of heat produced by the fire. From time to time, one or otherof these parts may need replacing as a matter of routine maintenance.
NOTE: The flame-path equipment, the ceramic rope and the paint finish are not coveredby guarantee.
All of these service parts can be bought from your morsø dealer, and we recommend thatdamaged parts are replaced as soon as possible to avoid collateral damage.
The grate may be replaced by lifting it by its left hand edge and twisting it backwards. Dislocate
the riddling arm from the grate by feel from beneath the floor of the firebox. If you find this difficult
for any reason, raising the rectangular grate surround casting may help.
Should the baffle be distorted by an overfire, the stove will still function, although its efficiency
may be compromised. Replace it as soon as possible. The rear casing is removed (four bolts).
Remove these and withdraw the baffle from the firebox (this may be easier if the firebricks are
first removed).
Before replacing the baffle, scrape out the old fire furnace and replace with new to make aneffective seal.
Reasons for fast internal wear and tear
Persistent heavy firing
Soot and ashes left to accumulate
Ceramic Gasket
The gasket around the perimeter of the door may harden over a period of time. It should be
replaced if it becomes difficult to close the door or if air starts to leak in around the perimeter ofthe door, causing the fire to become a little less controllable. A morsø rope gasket kit is available
from your stove supplier.

3.3 Cleaning the Stove and the Flue
Check for soot above the baffle plate and around the flue outlet every month or so to start with.
If the stove suddenly becomes sluggish, check for a soot fall around the flue collar or in theflue/chimney. - at least once a year. Inspect every month.
Clean the flue/chimney - all the way from the stove to the flue terminal point above the house.

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18

A good routine is to clean the flue after each heating season in any case, and inspect prior to theseason to ensure that bird’s nests or other blockages have not ocurred during the off season.
Ash disposal
Empty the ashpan on a daily basis or as needed. Ash allowed to build up towards the undersideof the grate will trap heat and could cause premature failure of the grate.
Empty the ashpan according to this procedure:
When the door is closed, the grate can be operated by means of the riddling bar. Open the front
door, and use a shovel or poker to stir excess ash through the ash slots in the grate down into
the ash pan. Remove the ash pan, making sure to keep it level.
Dispose the ash in a metal container with a tight fitting lid.
The closed container of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible floor or on the ground,well away from all combustible materials, pending final disposal. If the ashes are disposed ofby burial in soil or otherwise locally disperded, they should be retained in the closed container
until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.
Return the ash pan to its original position in the stove, and close.

Caution:
Never empty a stove in operation.
Never use your household or shop vacuum cleaner to remove ash from the stove;
always remove and dispose of the ash properly.

Creosote - formation and need for removal
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which combine withexpelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney
flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. Whenignited this creosote makes an extremely hot fire. When burning wood, inspect the chimney
connector periodically to determine if a creosote buildup has occurred.
Chimney sweeping
Inspect the system regularly during the heating season as part of a regular maintenance schedule.
To inspect the chimney, let the stove cool completely. Then, using a mirror, sight up through theflue collar into the chimney flue. If you cannot inspect the flue system in this fashion, the stovemust be disconnected to provide better viewing access.
Clean the chimney using a brush the same size and shape as the flue liner. Run the brush up
and down the liner, causing any deposits to fall to the bottom of the chimney where they canbe removed through the clean-out door.
Clean the chimney connector disconnecting the sections, taking them outside, and removing
any deposits with a stiff wire brush. Reinstall the connetor sections after cleaning, being sure
to secure the joints between individual sections with sheet metal screws.
If you cannot inspect or clean the chimney yourself, contact your local Morsø Deler or aprofessional chimney sweep.

19

If you do experience a chimney fire, act promptly and:
Close the air control.
Get everyone out of the house.
Call the Fire Department.
Annual maintenance
Before the heating season, perform a thorough cleaning, inspection and repair:
Thoroughly clean the chimney and chimney connector.
Inspect the chimney for damage and deterioration. Replace weak sections of prefabricatedchimney. Have a mason make repairs to a masonry chimney.
Inspect the chimney connector and replace any damaged sections.
Check gasketing for wear or compression, and replace if necessary.
Check the glass for cracking; replace if needed.
Check door and handles for tightness. Adjust if needed.

3.4 Leaving the stove for extended periods
Important:
If the stove is to be left unused for any period of time, clean it out thoroughly and leave thespinner slightly open to allow airflow. Make sure that the flue does not allow rainwater to comeanywhere near the stove; install a chimney cap, but do not block off the flue completely.
These measures should ensure there is a slight movement of air through the stove, and that the
body of the stove remains dry, right into the corners.
Any ash left within an unfired stove can attract moisture like blotting paper. If moisture is allowed
to settle within the stove, rust will form. Rust expands as it takes a grip. This can lead to undue
pressure on the stove joints, and this in turn may result in damage to the stove.
NOTE: It is best to thoroughly clean the stove after the heating season has concluded.
Adding a dessicant, such as kitter litter, into the ash pan helps absorb moisture during
the summer months. Be sure to remove this prior to the heating season.
Thank you for buying a morsø stove.
We hope you have many years of carefree warmth in its company. Some initial experimentation
with loading and running techniques will decide your normal routine. If you have any problems
after this short learning phase, please refer to your stove dealer. Should they be unable to help
for any reason, please contact us in writing at the address on the front of this publication.

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20

3.5 Parts diagram for the model Morsø 1710 Insert

21

3.6 Parts list for the model Morsø 1710 Insert
Pos.No.

Parts

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39

Door
Front grate
Air Conductor
Attachment for front grate
Draft Reducer
Base plate
Front frame
Air grate
Top plateIntermediate frame
Flue collar
Lower side plate right
Lower side plate left
Grate
Rear plate
Side plate rightSide plate left
Air valve
Distance tube
Distance tube
Ash trayBolt pin
Slide plate for ash tray
Distance tube
Convection box
Hinge pinSec. box
Sec. air reducer plate
Baffle stanless
Sec. pipe front
Fitting for baffle left
Fitting for baffle right
Lock fittings sec. pipe
Screw
Screw
Screw
Screw
Screw
Screw

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22

44160321
44161200
44161300
44161400
44162300
44170121
44170200
44170600
44170700
44170800
44170900
44171000
44171100
44171200
44173000
44172800
44172900
44330821
54143954144054161054170454171654172454173554205671170961
71171161
71171261
71172261
71171561
71171661
71712061-

3.6 Parts list for the model Morsø 1710 Insert
Pos.No.

Parts

40
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
71
73

Screw
Washer
Screw
Screw
Bolt
Bolt
Bolt
Nut
WasherWasher
Adapter for handle
Glass
Glass fitting
Tightening tape
Stone side
Stone bag
Lower stone baffle
Upper stone baffle
HandleClasp - w/o handle
Screw
Cotter pin
Cotter pin
WasherSec. pipe backSec. pipe midle
Pilot pipe
Poker
WasherScrew
Riddling Handle

75140161
79072279074379074500
79092600
79092300
79092400
79092500
79118300
79127000
79186979187071170861
71170761
71172061
54107544262021

23

Morsø Jernstøberi A/S - 07.01.2010 - 72170200

24