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Chiyoko s Fuji: Selected excerpts from the English translation of Fuyō-Nikki (1896)

Chiyoko’s Fuji:
Selected excerpts from the English translation of Fuyō-Nikki (1896)
How a Noh-master's daughter helped her husband
to survive 82 days on Mt Fuji in mid-winterHarumi YAMADA
Faculty of Human Studies, Jin-ai University

Fuyō-Nikki, The Fuji Diary, is the true account of how Nonaka Chiyoko climbed Mt Fuji to join
her husband on the summit in the winter of 1895 and helped him make meteorological observations
for a period of almost three months. The diary was first published in a series of 17 episodes in Hōchi-shinbun Newspaper between January 7th and February 1st, 1896. The whole text was then republishedin “Shōkokumin” in 1899. These translated excerpts are based on the text published in Fuyō-nikki
in Fuji An-nai/Fuyō-nikki Heibonsha Library 563 , compiled by Ōmori Hisao and published in2006. The diary was written in a traditional literary style that is best appreciated in the original. Yet it
describes an adventure that was completely unprecedented in Meiji Japan or, for that matter, anywhere
else in the world up to that time.
Keywords: winter on Mt. Fuji, a travel diary, a Meiji woman
ever again attempted such a feat.

Introduction

Chiyoko’s husband Nonaka Itaru also published accounts

The ﬁrst record of life on winter Fuji

of their stay on Mt Fuji, which variously appeared in theFuyō-Nikki, The Fuji Diary, was first published in a

Journal of the Meteorological Society of Japan, theseries of 17 episodes in Hōchi-shinbun Newspaper be-

Journal of Geography, and certain newspapers. Ōmori

tween January 7 and February 1 , 1896, in the same monthHisao later compiled these articles together with Fuyō-(January) and year that Higuchi Ichiyō1 published the last

Nikki into a single volume that was published by Heibon-

episode of her renowned story Takekurabe (Growing Up

sha Library in 2006; it is on this text that this translation isin the Edward Seidensticker translation). The whole text

based. Whereas Chiyoko’s Fuyō-Nikki is a diary in which

was then republished in “Shōkokumin” in 1899.

Chiyoko describes her personal accounts and emotions withthstThis mountain diary was written towards the end of themetaphors and classical allusions, Itaru’s articles were in-nineteenth century, when people in Japan had just started

tended to inform future meteorological studies and observa-‘to climb mountains not for religious purposes, botanisingtions, and thus make suggestions as to how scientists couldor hunting, but for the climb itself’ (Ōmori, 2008: 94). But

profit from the Nonakas’ experience in building a better

mountaineering in its modern form did not start until 1902,

summit observatory and so on. He also gives details of thewhen Kojima Usui and Okano Kinjirō reached the summit

instruments they used and the weather data collected duringof Yari-ga-take (Ōmori, ibid: 95). Thus, a winter ascent of

his own summit stay.

Mt Fuji for scientific purposes was unprecedented in 1895.
As for the achievement of surviving on the summit for al-

The story

most three months in mid-winter, no private persons have

− 67 −

The first person ever to reach the summit of Mt Fuji in仁愛大学研究紀要

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mid-winter was Nonaka Itaru, succeeding on his second atth

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century, using the literary persona of a woman. Keene (1989:

tempt on February 16 , 1895. His aim was to see if it would

1) says, “… only in Japan did the diary acquire the status of

be feasible to construct a weather station on the summit soa literary genre comparable in importance to novels, essays,that weather observations could be made throughout theand other branches of literature that elsewhere are esteemed

year. In the summer after his climb, he constructed a small

more highly than diaries.” As in other traditional travel dia-summit hut and provisioned it for several months. On Octo-ries, Fuyō-Nikki has many waka that enrich the descrip-st

ber 1 , he started making weather observations and collect-

tive passages.
Chiyoko begins Fuyō-Nikki with a protestation of her

ing data every two hours, night and day, aiming to continue
this work through the winter.

lack of qualifications to be a writer:

Meanwhile, Chiyoko had been instructed to stay at home

… How deeply I now regret never having roamed
through the groves of literature and poetry. For me,
writing is as hard as diving to get a pearl deep down on
the sea floor. Yet, in my present elated state of mind, I
feel that I can somehow slip these bonds of earth andwrite. …

and look after her daughter and Itaru’s parents. But Chiyoko
had ideas of her own. Fearing that, left to his own devices,
Itaru would not survive the winter, she made secret preparations to join him on the summit. And then, after leaving herbaby daughter with her own parents, she climbed the snowbound mountain to join Itaru on October 12th.

Yet this disclaimer is soon contradicted by her elegant

Life on Fuji was hard. Chiyoko immediately fell victim

turns of phrase and masterly descriptions of events andto altitude sickness and, after a while, to what might wellscenes. In this light, her wording seems to echo the intro-

have been scurvy or a similar deficiency disease. Soon, Ita-duction to one of the travel diaries of Matsuo Bashō (1644-

ru was suffering from the same symptoms. The couple lost1694), in which he protests:

their appetites, subsisting on two helpings of thin porridge a... my shallow knowledge and inadequate talent … Nevertheless, the scenery of different places lingers in mymind, and even my unpleasant experiences at huts in themountains and fields can become subjects of conversation or material for poetry. With this in mind, I havescribbled down, without any semblance of order, the unforgettable moments of my journey, and gathered them
together in one work. …
(In Oi no Kobumi, Manuscript on My Knapsack,quoated by Keene, 1989:3-4)

day. But they somehow struggled on and kept up the meteorological observations night and day. Yet Chiyoko was notovermastered by these hardships. Her diary communicatesto us that she appreciated and even enjoyed the harsh landscape and the novel experiences that came her way.
In the end, the winter storms and their failing health were
too much for Itaru and Chiyoko. Shocked at their physical deterioration, members of a visiting party made their

Chiyoko may or may not have been aware of Bashō’s

concerns known to the authorities, who organized a rescue

Oi no Kobumi. What is certain, on the evidence of Fuyō-

at the beginning of December. The ordeal ended when Itaru

Nikki, is that she was well-read. She was, after all, theand Chiyoko were brought down to a hero’s welcome at thedaughter of the Noh-master Umezu Shien and, as this travel

mountain’s foot. As on many a previous occasion in Japa-

diary proves, she was very much her father’s daughter. So

nese history and literature, defeat had been transmuted into

Fuyō-Nikki was no random set of jottings; it is a conscious

triumph.

work of literature.

A travel diary

The Meiji woman

Fuyō-Nikki is a travel diary. The tradition of writing

As Iwabuchi et al. (2005: 2) describe, the Meiji Restora-

travel diaries in Japan goes back to Tosa-Nikki (The Tosa

tion (1868) brought about a drastic change in women’s po-

Diary), which Ki no Tsurayuki wrote in the early tenthsitions in society and their self-esteem. The announcement− 68 −

Chiyoko s Fuji: Selected excerpts from the English translation of Fuyō-Nikki (1896)of the “Gakusei (Educational System)” in 1872, which pro-couple, Takane-no-yuki, was published by Ochiai Nao-claimed that every child would receive a school education,bumi in September, 1896, in the same year that Fuyō-Nikki

had an epoch-making significance. At the time of the an-came out. At this time, Japan was dealing with the after-

nouncement, only 40% of boys were attending elementary

maths of the Sino-Japanese war and a disastrous earthquake

schools and less than 20% of girls. By the 1900s, 90% of

in the Sanriku region. Then, in 1948, Hashimoto Eikichi

all girls were at elementary schools. In 1871, Tsuda Umeko

wrote Fuji Sanchō, which Bernstein (ibid: 169) describes

and four other girls joined the Iwakura Mission to theas “a novelistic version of the Nonakas’ tale clearly meantWest as the first girl students to study abroad. In the 1870s,

to inspire a defeated people by celebrating a Japanese man

schools for girls were founded one after another.

and woman who had endured the unendurable. In 1971,

Being the daughter of a Noh master, Chiyoko was an ed-

Nitta Jirō published Fuyō-no-hito, when the end of Ja-

ucated Meiji woman, who felt able to act on her own initia-

pan’s high-growth period had ushered in a mood of national

tive. As Nitta Jirō wrote in the postscript to Fuyō-no-hito,

introspection. Since then, the story seems to have been halfa novel that reprises the Mt Fuji adventure from Chiyoko’s

forgotten. Yet, when we look around at contemporary Japan

viewpoint:– recovering slowly from a natural disaster3 and facing a

Nonaka Chiyoko was a representative of Meiji women.
She was a spirited woman on whose shoulders rested
the destinies of new Japan. Wasn’t it Nonaka Chiyoko
who let the world know what Japan’s women were madeof – “This is a Japanese woman” – thus shrugging off
the husk of the feudal age. This record winter sojourn at
3,776m, a feat never before achieved by a woman, wasnothing that she set out to achieve. Yet that very lack ofrecord-seeking makes her feat all the more illustrious.

moribund economy,4 while trying to create, with only mixed
success ‘a society in which women shine’ 5,6 – it may well
strike us as the right moment to take another look at Chiyoko and her Fuyō-Nikki.

Fuyō-nikki7 - selected excerpts 1.

Before climbing Fuji, Chiyoko wrote to Itaru’s ‘honoured

In this Emperor’s flourishing reign, I was fortunate

sponsor and patron’ Wada Yūji, a staff member of theenough to take part in an expedition, humble though I am.

Tōkyō Meteorological Observatory, asking if she could

Feeling happy to have come through, I now struggle when-be allowed to join the Japanese Meteorological Society –ever I can to set down my impressions. How deeply I regret

which, almost needless to say, had never yet admitted anever having roamed through the groves of literature andwoman to its membership. And on the summit, as Itaru’s

poetry. For me, to write is as hard as diving to get a pearl

physical condition deteriorated, Chiyoko took over his task

deep down on the sea floor. Yet, in my present elated stateof recording weather data (Bernstein, 2013: 163). Chiyo-of mind, I feel that I can somehow slip these bonds of earth

ko’s actions were reported favourably in newspapers: “Suchand write. My husband too is wound up to such a pitch thatis a husband, such is a wife. We should call them a pairhe stays up all the dreamless night, jostled by one strongof gems” (Tokyo Asahi newspaper, September 11, 1985.)

emotion after another. Whenever he gets the chance, he jots

“An ideal couple” (Hochi newspaper, September 17, 1985)

down what happened to us in thirty or so syllables (waka)8(Ōmori, 2006: 251).

and then he throws away the drafts. But these I have col-Since then, the tale of Nonaka Itaru and Chiyoko has

lected and I too have kept noting down what happened tobeen retold several times, both in novels and as a movie.

us every day. All these records have gradually turned into a

Frequently, the story seems to resurface during moments

mountain diary, which might happen to amuse somebody.

of national stress, as if readers are looking for examples ofAnd so, to occupy myself in old age, I put these notes aside

fortitude in the face of crisis. The first novel based on thein a box.

− 69 −

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less as I am, won’t you let me go with him? At the least,
I could cook for him, but if I’m away, you would have to--- (the rest omitted) --published on 7 January, 1896 (Meiji 29).

cook in my stead, which pains me to think about. Though,if I come back safely, I would make it up to you. There is2.

little Kotoko to think about too. Asking you to take care of--- (the beginning omitted) ---Sonoko as well would be too much, so I will ask my motherAs I recall, it all started at the end of December the year

in Fukuoka to take care of her.” My mother-in-law started

before last. My husband said that everything was settled

to wring her hands and said, “When I think about Itaru on

and that he would now start his journey to the mid-winterthe mountain, I would indeed wish you to be with him. But

summit. On January 2nd, having made his preparations, heItaru’s purpose is quite out of the ordinary, so that it would

set out to walk down the Tōkaidō alone, without a porter,

be no trespass if you decided not to go with him. Also, if

to get his legs into condition. But we’d never heard of any-

anything should happen to you, how could I ever face yourbody in the whole of history having climbed Mt Fuji in theparents in Fukuoka, having let you climb the mountain.

snow season, and so my husband may have lacked the re-As for Sonoko, it would be pitiful how she would cry andsolve to succeed on this occasion. At about the fifth station,

seek your breast. So, really, you should stay here and keep

when his firehook broke and the nails he’d hammered into

house.” This is what she said, with tears in her eyes. Since

his boot soles started bending, he could go no further andmy mother-in-law is always kind-hearted, I knew that, how-

had to give up. After devising some better gear, he set out

ever long I asked, she’d never give me leave to make thethto climb the mountain again on February 16 this year. This

climb. So I said nothing, and went back to my room.
published on 8 January, 1896 (Meiji 29).

time, he didn’t waver but climbed all the way to the summit, although the weather was again stormy and the windblew hard. Before he came down, he made a survey of the3.

snow conditions and water supply and scouted out a place

My husband, always acting on the spur of the momentto build our hut. Dr Terao of our home town had alreadyand cutting a very poor figure in a straw rain coat, went

introduced my husband to Mr Wada of the Tōkyō Meteoro-

back and forth to Satō’s house to make preparations forlogical Observatory, who invited him to join the Meteoro-building the summit hut. “Now the timbers are pegged

logical Society of Japan. You will find all the details in thetogether,” he said, “it’s time to carry them up to the sum-Society’s Journal so I need not repeat them here.

mit and set up the hut. I’ll go to Satō’s on August 5th.” At

At the summit, my husband jotted down this poem:

which, my mother-in-law explained to me what I should
do: “A good many people will have to get together to carry

Attained, as never before
The summit of Mt Fuji
Smothered in fresh snowloads up from the foot of the mountain and build the summit hut. You should go to Satō’s house with Sonoko, andhelp as much as you can.” For my part, I couldn’t help

At the end of July, my mother-in-law started to wring

thinking that, in this lower world, we can always call on

her hands, thinking of the hardships in store for Itaru in his

doctors and other helpers, so that there’s not much to worry

sojourn on the mountaintop. I took the chance to say, “Butabout, even if parents and children do have to stay apartthis is no whim of Itaru’s. It’s the dream he has cherished

for a while. But on top of Mt Fuji, there would be nobody

for seven long years, so I’d like to see him succeed. My

to call on and no way of sending a message – so that myworry, though, is that if he tries to do everything himself

husband would starve, if he fell ill and I were not with him.

up there, he’ll find no time to sleep, even at night. So, use-

And it’s all for our country, so I want to make the climb− 70 −

Chiyoko s Fuji: Selected excerpts from the English translation of Fuyō-Nikki (1896)

even if it means disobeying my parents. How can I not help

celebrate, we had cakes of pounded rice, given to us by

my husband achieve the thing he’s been dreaming of for ten

some wardens of pilgrims’ huts on the mountain. It was ayears? Though I’m loth to do it, I’ll tell a lie and say thatjoyous occasion.
published on 9 January, 1896 (Meiji 29).

I’ll go to Satō’s house and come back soon. Then, when
the hut is finished, I’ll go to Fukuoka and leave Sonoko
with my mother in Fukuoka, and then follow my husband.

4.

Thus it was that I made my plans. When the day came that I

You’ll find a description of the hut’s construction in thethought my journey should start, I had to make my farewells

Journal of the Meteorological Society of Japan, so I haveto my parents-in-law without letting them see the sadness

omitted it here. Suffice it to say that on fine days the work-in my heart and so I hid my tears in Sonoko’s sleeve. Thereers suffered headaches, and in bad weather their hands andwas no time even to say, “Good bye. Please take care offeet were frozen, and they couldn’t work as they wanted

yourselves” before the carriage rolled on its way. Althoughto. Of the twenty or so people who were supposed to wield

I willed everything so, it was a sin to lie to my parents-in-

picks and shovels, sometimes only three could carry onlaw, and they might resent it. So, in my heart, I pleaded

their work. It is easy to imagine how things were up there.

with them for forgiveness over and over again. Then there

At last, the hut was ready for my husband’s use. The days

was little Kotoko, whom I’d been nursing before I left,

had flown past, and we started to worry that my mother-since her mother had little milk. One last time, I held her.

in-law would get anxious about us. There was no longer

Knowing nothing of my plans, Kotoko happily drank her

any need to stay. “Today, since the weather’s fine, why not

fill and, when she said in her childish way “Auntie, pleasego back to Tōkyō,” my husband suggested to me on Sep-

feed me again later,” I felt as if my heart would break, andtember 4th, and early in the morning he left for Suyama, ashed my tears on Kotoko’s upturned face. Pondering on myleague or so distant, to buy stores to take up the mountain.

sins like this, I felt downcast. I hid my face behind the car-In the meantime, I readied myself to leave. When I reck-

riage’s awning, and now with nobody watching me, I shed

oned up the time, I had already stayed a month here. We

my endless tears like a waterfall and thus, all too quickly, I

had become so close to each other by now that the elderly

arrived at the station in Shinbashi.

couple grieved to part from Sonoko, bestowing on her all

Soon the train stopped at Gotemba. From there, I went up

their fondest wishes. As for me, I was sad to part from my

to Satō’s house at Takigahara, where the elderly master andhusband even for a short while, thinking that if I were ahis wife were busy looking after this matter and that. My

man, I would not feel downcast like this. And now I did ashusband was already up on the summit with a good number

I had planned, taking Sonoko to my parent’s home. First,of carpenters and stonemasons. As he sent down his orders

I rode down to Gotemba Station on a horse with the childfor materials, things were purchased here and there, andin my arms. Then I scribbled a letter to my father-in-law inthe timbers that had been stacked up here were carried up

Tōkyō:

to the summit. Just to carry up a couple of wooden pillars
took several days since the winds were so strong. Although

September 4

I don’t mean to exaggerate, not everything went our way;

To Mother and Father
I write in haste. Itaru is now going to go up the mountain. If he tries to take care of himself for eight or ninemonths, cooking for himself day and night, no matter
how healthy he might be, if anything happened, all his
efforts would be in vain, which I couldn’t bear. So I
can’t hold back from joining him; this is no time for me
to stand idly by. When I consider how the wives of sam-indeed, this was no easy work. But the carpenters, stonemasons, porters, and hut owners set to with a will to help
my husband. And so, without incident, the observatory wasbuilt. As I remember, it was around September 27th or 28ththat Itaru came down the mountain with several others. To− 71 −

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urai comported themselves in the old days, as I’ve heard
from you, I feel that now is the time for me to act. Also,
there is your kind concern about my parents in Fukuoka.
You have made sure that I am fully provided with fashionable clothes, and now I’d like to show my parents allthese good things. And, I suppose Kotoko might ask formilk. And I’m sorry that Mother will have to take chargeof the kitchen. Please forgive me for troubling you. I
haven’t told Itaru that I would go down to Fukuoka, so
he will be very surprised when he gets back to Tōkyō.
And, as I am presently going to make the climb myself, I
have asked Mr Satō to prepare food and other things forme, so please do not worry yourselves. As I have madeup my mind, I won’t give up my plan whatever you or
Itaru might say. With this resolve, I am first going down
to Fukuoka. Please forgive me. I wish you well with all
my heart.
In front of Gotemba Stationhome in the village of Keigo in Fukuoka. Of course, they

Chiyokoto help her husband at the peril of her life is the teaching of

hadn’t expected us, so both my parents were surprised,
and we greeted each other cheerfully although in some
confusion. A little later, my mother came forward on her
knees and asked me entreatingly, “But why have you comedown here so suddenly; is it because you disappointed yourparents in Tōkyō, or is Itaru somehow unhappy with you?
Whatever the cause, please tell us the whole truth.” To
which I replied, “No, matters are quite different. As it happens, my husband plans to sojourn on the summit of Mt Fuji
and I mean to accompany him.” And so I confided my plansin every detail. Yet my parents were undismayed: “That isa brave thing that you are thinking of doing. For a woman
the sages. If you can work together in harmony and support

Thus I blundered about in my letter, scribbling away justyour husband, that is the mark of a true woman. Now, do

as my heart prompted me to, and sent it off. The moment

not worry about Sonoko. We will surely take good care offor departure had come. As we stepped up into the train,her.” These words reassured me. From then on, I took caretears came into the eyes of Yoheiji’s daughter, who had

to keep Sonoko at a certain distance, as if she were no lon-come to see us off, and even into those of the horse-driver

ger my own child, thinking of the time when she would no

who had accompanied us. Nobody else had come to see us

longer have me to look after her. But my mother treated her

off as I had stolen quietly away, and so with my child andwith wholehearted affection, easing my fears.
Sometime in the middle of this month, as I remember,no other companion, I journeyed sadly toward the western

a letter came from my mother-in-law in Tōkyō. I quickly

horizon.

opened it and read:

Only a little lateWill I be to the country
That he left for in such haste

I hope this letter finds everybody well, and I hope both
you and Sonoko are doing all right. Now, although I previously spoke out against your climbing Mt Fuji, I haveheard that your parents have given their approval. So, if
this is what you really want to do, I wouldn’t presume
to stand in your way. But I would be very happy to takecare of Sonoko myself. Truly I would like to look after
her here, so please bring Sonoko back. Even though
there is Kotoko too, we will manage very well. If Sonoko is there, she will be friends with Kotoko and that will
comfort her. So do bring Sonoko back home as quickly
as you can. Yours ever,August 15
Your mother in Tōkyō
To Chiyoko

We arrived in Nagoya late that evening and stayed there
for the night. Neither on land nor sea was there anything
special to write about. Off the coast of Nagato, though, thewind got up so strongly that our ship almost foundered. The
captain had the life-buoys brought up on deck, but we managed to take shelter in Kaminoseki, where we lay at anchor
another day and night. Compared with the hardships tocome on Mt Fuji, I didn’t think this was very alarming.
published on 10 January, 1896 (Meiji 29).

Thus, my mother-in-law’s letter, but once we were back5.

in Tōkyō, things would not go that easily, I thought. On
thOn September 8 , Sonoko and I arrived at my parents’

the top of that, I would cause my parents-in-law additional− 72 −

Chiyoko s Fuji: Selected excerpts from the English translation of Fuyō-Nikki (1896)

sorrow by parting from them in Tōkyō a second time. Also,

letting him know of my safe arrival. He arrived here late

Sonoko seemed to have become attached to my mother atthat same night. Then I wrote a letter to my mother-in-law,home here, so I thought I would leave things as they were.

bidding her farewell; the very memory brings tears to my

As I intended in this way to go against my mother-in-law’seyes, so I won’t say anything more about it here.
Also, I wrote to Mr Wada Yūji, a member of the Meteo-

request, I couldn’t imagine how to reply to her and spentrological Society, whom I look to as my husband’s hon-every day tormenting myself as to what I should write.
published on 11 January, 1896 (Meiji 29).

oured sponsor and patron:
October 8th

6.

Dear Professor Wada,
I have not had the honour of meeting you yet, but I
trust this finds you in good health. I would like to apologise for my lack of courtesy in failing until now to thankyou for all the support you have given to this project of
Itaru. Even though my husband is quite strong in constitution, I am worried about him being alone up there. Yet
he has always turned a deaf ear to my entreaties that I
should join him up there. However, it would be terrible
if he should fall ill or by some other mischance fail toachieve his purpose. For this reason, I will venture toclimb up and join him. And although this is a sudden decision, I have already arranged for food and clothes for
one extra person to be kept at Nakahata, so please haveno concerns about these matters. Naturally, I’m grateful for your advice that I should refrain from climbing
the mountain, but I can’t change my plans as there is noother way but to do my duty. I know that I won’t escapecriticism for being forward, for I’m well aware that awoman should stay at home and keep house. Anyway, I
am prepared to accept the blame for this lack of respect.
Still, I would like to ask a favour of you, and that is to beallowed to join the Meteorological Society. Such is myrequest, and if they will accept a woman as a member,I enclose the membership fee here. Tomorrow, I intend
to climb the mountain, so please forgive the suddennessof this request and excuse me for my bold address. Next
year, when we return from Mt Fuji, I would like to pay
my respects and express my gratitude to you.
From Gotemba Station
Sincerely yours,
Mrs Itaru Nonaka ChiyothTime passed. It was already October 6 . Though reluctant to part, I was finally ready to leave and bid farewell toeverybody. My mother helped Sonoko present me with a“sanpō” (a small wooden table for offerings) to mark mydeparture. My hand trembled as I took it and I accepted it
as if in a dream. My mother wanted me to nurse Sonoko
one last time, and so I held her to me. But she didn’t wantto suckle, but just gazed up at me. She was too little tounderstand that I was parting from her. Not understandingthat I was leaving now, she just said “No” and ran outside. I
did not dare to go after her. Best make haste now and go, I
thought: Somehow I scrambled into the carriage. I couldn’t
even find the words for the proper farewells. The carriage
rolled quickly along the main thoroughfare and soon we arrived at Hakata Station.
Here, waiting to see me off, among some other people,
was my father, who was 79 years old that year. Although he
was of sound constitution, I expected that he would somehow resemble an aged crane parting from his young offspring, longing for the old days that were no longer there.
So I was surprised when he looked me straight in the faceand spoke out firmly, “We will take good care of Sonoko
and look forward to seeing you next spring.” This reassured

I talked with my father-in-law all through the night. The

my weak womanly heart. There was no more to say; I felt

eastern sky started to lighten. Since he had no free day, my

as if I had somehow stepped out along a road of dreams.

father-in-law said he would have to return to Tōkyō at once.
Meanwhile, I made ready to leave for Takigawara. When it--- (the rest omitted) --published on 12 January, 1896 (Meiji 29).

was time to say good-bye, my heart ached and I could findno words, and I just wept and wept. Father consoled me,7.

and said, “As for Sonoko and your family in Fukuoka, we

On October 9th, I arrived at Gotemba Station in Suruga.

will take good care of them. Do not worry about us, but go

Forthwith I sent a telegram to my father-in-law in Tōkyō,up the mountain in good heart. All you need to think about− 73 −

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2013

is to take good care of yourselves. And never forget thelight tomorrow.” To which I rejoined, “That I shall not, as

obligation to our country.” He told me this and that in great

I will explain in due course. And as I have made up mydetail, so I had nothing to regret. I said to him to take good

mind, it doesn’t matter how much you scold. I’ll not leavecare of himself and my mother-in-law, yet my feet were

this mountain for my life.” Thus I set out my position. That

somehow reluctant to go forward. My father-in-law set offnight in the hut, we huddled almost knee to knee with thefor the station, and I turned towards the mountain. But I

villagers who'd brought me up here and we all had to staylooked back often, gazing as far as my eyes could reach,awake till morning. From time to time my husband wentand I chided myself for being too emotional and so I woundout to make his weather observations. He was reading his

up my resolve. Choking back my tears, I eventually turned

instruments twelve times a day and night. The next day,my back on Gotemba Station.

only Kiyoshi stayed; the others said farewell and left.
The following day, on the 13th, Kiyoshi, reluctant to part,Now I have no regrets
For I have seen you
As I wished to see you

told us to take care of ourselves, and told us many things
about this and that. As he was about to take his leave, hesaid to Itaru, “Let me take care of the family in your ab-

When I arrived at Satō’s house, I felt abashed at thesence, so that you can devote yourself completely to youridea of climbing the mountain, a truly unheard-of feat forwork. And now, farewell.” The two looked at each other fora woman of good standing, so I asked the family never toa while and, on my part, sensing their mood, I couldn’t help

tell anybody about this, and we made our preparations quite

shedding a tear. All the while, the wind blew great guststhsecretly, so that I would be ready for the climb on the 12 .

and then Kiyoshi’s figure faded into the enveloping clouds.

Late on the night of the 11th, my husband’s brother Kiyoshi

It was all extremely sad.

came over to see me off. He gave me a lot of kind advice.

On October 28th, we had a visit from Messrs Matsui and

The next day, on the 12th, I made my departure, together

Mejika, members of the famed Hōkōgikai who had sent anwith Kiyoshi, Gorō of the Satō’s head family, and Jūzaburō,

expeditionary party to the Chishima islands. They were sent

the warden of a pilgrims’ hut. Mr and Mrs Yosheiji and Tsu-by Mr Gunji. Accompanied by porters carrying letters andruko saw us off at the door. Sadly, shedding tears, and call-a good many gifts, they braved the ice and snow. Arounding out to each other until our voices couldn’t be heard any

noon, I think, there was a knocking outside. I thought it was

longer, we set out on our way and started climbing towards

just the wind again and took no notice, but soon I heard

the summit.

an unfamiliar voice that said, “Open up; you have visipublished on 15 January, 1896 (Meiji 29).

tors who’d like to pay their respects.” Greatly surprised, I
rushed to the door, only to find it frozen shut. There being

8.

no other way, we took hold of the inner and outer windowOn a woman’s weak legs and with the help of several

shutters and removed them. As the opening was small, ourcompanions, I managed to reach my husband’s observa-

guests had to come in backwards. “Careful now; easily

tory around sunset. He was astounded to see me. After adoes it,” I said. “As you see, for seven days or so now, we

while, he found the words to say, “I asked you to take carehave been shut in by the icy snow, and haven’t been able toof the family in my stead, and to look after our parents.

get outside, so we never expected to have any more contact

Why on earth have you come here? How are our people atfrom the world below this year,” we explained. “Indeed,home doing?” “Please don’t worry,” I replied. “Everybody

this is such an unexpected visit, we’re quite overwhelmed.

is well.” “Then,” he said, “there’s no need for you to be

After that never-ending climb, you must be exhausted.

here. You can start down the mountain the moment it’s

Though it’s a bit cramped, you’ll stay the night, won’t you,”− 74 −

Chiyoko s Fuji: Selected excerpts from the English translation of Fuyō-Nikki (1896)

we said. All that night, we wrote one letter after another forcerns. Quickly getting up and giving the room a morning

our people at home. It was such a joy to get their letters, socleaning, I arranged things for the ceremony. To celebrate

unexpectedly. There was no other way to express my feel-the Emperor’s reign, I washed mochi rice in a little pot andings. What a surprise for the people at home, too! Needlessthen pounded it with a bamboo blowpipe. Finally I poundedto say, our two visitors were exhausted after their long jour-it again and again with the handle of a screwdriver, but

ney but, in such circumstances, we could scarcely entertain

ended up with such an unappetising and inedible mess thatthem as we would have wished. They left us before noon

I pushed it aside, and we ended up sipping at our porridge

the next day. I wrote in a postscript to Mr Gunji:

dejectedly. My husband took out the Emperor’s nationalflag;

You brought them for us all the way
Thinking of your kindness,
I can only weep

Today is the daythat marks the Emperor’s reign
Now fly his flag on high--- (middle section omitted) --The pillar supporting the anemometer behind our hut,
Up on the mountain, even though nothing much had yet

which was level with the ridge of the roof, seemed to behappened, the blood rushed to my head, which ached all

the highest point in this entire storied Land of the Ris-the time. Probably because I had stayed up all night writinging Sun. Even from our stance in the heavens, we wishedletters, I now had a swelling in my throat and I couldn’t get

somehow to offer our felicitations, and so we wrenched

any food down, or even speak. The pain was unbearable

open the window and crawled out. Our intention was toand I stayed in my bunk for a week or more. My husband

fly the Emperor’s flag from the anemometer mast, but theworried a great deal, and I worried that my illness was

raging and relentless wind almost tore it away, so that we

causing him such care. How could I go on like this, I won-

couldn’t even let it out of our grasp. We gave in, rolled up

dered. Left alone, everything tended to go to rack and ruin

the flag and stowed it in inside one of our jackets, and thenhere. I was so overwhelmed that I started to reflect that I

we both knelt down towards the east and paid our respects

would have to die anyway one of these days. In this frameto the Imperial palace, excusing ourselves for making ourof mind, I resolved to cure myself with a single blow. So I

obeisances as if from a higher place to a lower one. We

had my husband sharpen up a gimlet and made him thrustalso prayed for our parents in the east and the west, andit into the swelling. The relief was like a blessing fromwhile we were looking at the sky, a sudden gust came withheaven. To my joy, the pain then gradually eased off as thea group of clouds, and the gusty wind redoubled its force,days passed.

so that the blizzard flung stones through the air and, on top
published on 16 January, 1896 (Meiji 29).

of that, the very roots of the rocks seemed to tremble as thesnow blew low over the ridges. Then the wild melee turned

9.

into an unexpected fall of flowers, accompanied by a roarBefore dawn, a surprisingly bright light filtered in froming noise that was quite indescribable. Suddenly, a gust sent

the cracks of the window and when I lifted my head fromme bowling along the ground for several meters, and myrd

the pillow, I realised it was November 3 . Indeed, on thishusband indited a poem;

national holiday, even on this lifeless mountaintop, under
the winter sky, the landscape looked naturally at peace inall directions. Though by now I was halfway to becoming
a mountain spirit, I had not freed myself of all earthly con-− 75 −The God of Wind today,
why did he blow over
the Mountain’s Goddess?

仁愛大学研究紀要

人間学部篇

第 12 号

2013

I’d fallen on my front and was speechless. I tried to standabout this, but if we did not use charcoal and firewood as

up, staggering, grasped the stone steps, and crawled throughwe needed to, we couldn’t have survived very long. Things

the window into the hut, harried by the wind. My husband

were certainly getting difficult. Meaning to moisten themade some additional verses;

bulb of the wet-bulb thermometer, my husband melted ice
and dipped a brush in it, only to mistakenly touch the brushNo rice-cakes in this holiday repast
Instead we sipped our porridge,
On top of all, we had a blast 9

on an iron tool beside him. The brush froze fast onto theiron and no amount of pulling would free it. My husband
could do nothing about it. Tearing the hair of the brush, he

Even on a fine clear day, the wind blew incessantly

came up with the following verse:

across the summit, whirling up lumps of snow and whis-

Desiring too much
The geezer with a bald kettle-shaped head
Put a brush to the iron and it stucktling through the stovepipe like a train. The sound of thegale as it tore past the rocky edges was like the crash ofwaves on a beach. The noise was ferocious, even terrifying,when we took the midnight observations. So we stuffed

For drinking water, we needed to get ice from outside,

our ears with cotton, but our nostrils ended up so torn andbut the front door was firmly frozen shut. I thought to pourbleeding that they hurt us every morning. We thought thisboiling water on it and, after heating some for several

might be caused by altitude sickness, and that they would

hours, poured it onto the threshold. But before I could fin-heal as we got used to life up here, but they never did until

ish pouring it all out, the water froze into ice and sealed

we came down the mountain.

the door even more firmly shut. This was the kind of thing--- (the rest omitted) ---that happened up there. Realising there was no other way,

published on January 17, 1896 (Meiji 29).

I pulled the window open from the inside with all mystrength. I had just managed to crawl outside when, all of

10.

a sudden, the hem of my kimono was blown up around myhead. This was the mischief that the wind always made and--- (omitted) --Published on January 18, 1896 (Meiji 29).

my figure must have looked most undignified. As a woman,
I felt especially shocked and embarrassed, grateful only

11.

that nobody was there to see me. The icicles at the cliff’s

The inner panelling of the hut and the ceiling boards hadedge did not hang down, as they usually do, but grew atbeen frosted up since the end of October. In fact, every-

the wind’s behest, some jutting horizontally from the rock,thing froze that had moisture in it. Sugar became crumblyand some thrusting in serried ranks at the sky. They looked

and lost its sweet taste, pickled plums (umeboshi) dried

to me like a mountain of swords, a terrifying sight. Yet theout and kept little of their sourness. The stove no longer

winds often blow heavenwards on mountain summits, andput out much heat, and its casing wasn’t even warm to theit was no different here. No matter how clear the weather,touch. The rice we put beside the stove to make porridge

there was no day when the wind did not blow with mainsoon congealed to such a solidity that you couldn’t evenforce. Even when it was not snowing, spindrift was always

stick a pair of tongs (hibashi) into it. And you had to breakblowing upwards so that a blizzard would blow into theyour way into any liquid before you could drink it, which

hut from gaps as small as a nail-hole. Drifting snow turned

I found rather amusing. Such was the state of affairs, andthe floor of the instrument room and the bare ground of thewe used more charcoal, firewood, sugar, pickled plums andstoreroom into a uniform sheet of white. We tried some-so on than we expected. As time passed, I started to worry

how to stop the snow forcing its way in day and night, but− 76 −

Chiyoko s Fuji: Selected excerpts from the English translation of Fuyō-Nikki (1896)

finally we gave up the struggle; there seemed to be no way

November 30th, I made the attempt with Captain Tsukushi,

to do it. We tried hanging up a sheet of paper, and weighted

chief of the Mikuriya Police Station, Police Officer Hiraoka

its lower edge with some heavy tins. But the breeze filled

Shōjirō, Hishimoto Yokichirō, and the porters Saitō Tsuru-

the paper like a sail and the cans rolled off. Then we triedkichi, and Katsumata Kumakichi here. Unfortunately, we

hanging blankets around the inside of the hut, but still the

did not have the proper gear and had to turn back from thepiercing wind came through. It seemed to flay my skinfifth station. Still, it was a pity to leave matters like that,rather than chill it. With the blankets hung all around, it wasso we made up our mind to try again, this time just the two

dark even during the day, so we never let the candle go out.

of us together with your brother Kiyoshi, Mr Hiraoka, andIndeed, the world of darkness will be like this, I thought.

Tsurukichi. But the wind was so wild that the other three

Athough it is somewhat self-aggrandising to make a com-have stayed down at the eighth station; we two have only

parison with Prince Morinaga Shinnō confined in his cavejust barely managed to get here. There were many presents

at Kamakura, our trial was nothing to his, as we had our hut

waiting for you at the foot of the mountain, but there was no

to live in, although we were of low degree.

way we could carry them all with us. We brought only the

published on 21 January, 1896 (Meiji 29).

letters and presents from your father in Tōkyō and Kiyoshi
staying at the eighth station, and a few other letters. Then

12.

Kumakichi took his coat off and gave it to my husband,

Around November 5th, my limbs started to swell. Aroundthsaying that it was a present from Yoheiji’s daughter Tsu-the 20 , my eyes gummed up. My husband was full of

ruko. Now, the two, with tears in their eyes, said dolefully,

solicitude. We gave up eating rice, and instead had kudzu“It’s been hard enough for us, coming up to visit you juststarch and adzuki bean gruel seasoned with sugar at every

once. But you’ve been up here for so long that you must be

meal, and by the end of the month, I had finally recovered.

really suffering. Isn’t it getting you down?” To which my

My husband and I had started by eating three meals a day,husband replied, “I was ready to undertake any hardship,

but from around the end of October, our digestions weak-but I can’t deny that at times I feel just about at the end ofened and we couldn’t get the food down any longer. Now

my tether. However, I tell myself that it is for the good of

we chose to have a bowl of gruel twice a day, morning andour country and I am determined to see it out somehow.

night. We couldn’t face the tinned meat.

As for my health, my face may look swollen, but I’m now

On December 12th, probably in the morning, somebody

feeling better, so please don’t worry.” After a pause, Keizōcalled from outside in a high voice, “Nonaka-san, are you

said, “In your state, you’d do better to come down off thealive or dead? Nonaka-san, Nonaka-san.” My husband had

mountain and get your strength back.” My husband replied,dug out and set aside the threshold beam, since it got in“I thank you for your concern, but if I stop my work now,the way when we wanted to collect ice, and so fortunately

who would continue it? I was ready to risk my life from thewe could now pull the door open and invite our guests in.

start. So how can I leave the mountain just because I’m ill?

One was Mr Katsumata Kumakichi of Nakahata. The otherI have pledged both my life and my money. I have no re-was somebody I didn’t know. At once, we welcomed themgrets. If I’m unlucky enough to die, I’ll just give in and ac-

to our earthen-floored room. The stranger was introduced

cept it as my lot.” But Keizō again urged my husband to go

as Mr Tatsumata Keizō, a member of the village council.

down: “Surely you don’t mean to die a quick death because

After chatting about this and that, Keizō turned to my hus-of your illness.” And again my husband persisted in his pro-band and said, “When we held our farewell party for you, I

testations, “Of course, I don’t want to die but I don’t thinkpromised that I would climb up and pay you a visit in win-

I’m in such a bad state that I’m going to die right now.” Theter. I could hardly forget my promise, and the other day, on

two other men could say no more, and wept unashamedly.

− 77 −

仁愛大学研究紀要

人間学部篇

published on 24 January, 1896 (Meiji 29).

第 12 号

2013

mine. However, he kept up his observations twelve times
a day as if his life depended on it. But by the middle of the13.

month, he was finding it difficult to get even as far as the

Our guests were reluctant to part, but the wind was blow-

instrument room without resting every ten steps or so. As

ing more and more wildly and the way down would become

we’d eaten all our adzuki beans by now, I gave him only

ever less certain the longer they tarried. As they urged us to

kudzu starch gruel. This gradually brought down the swell-

write just a few lines in reply to the letters they’d brought

ings, but now we had only a day’s supply of kudzu starchup, my husband opened those from his father and Kiyoshi

and sugar, and there was no way to get more. If I could not

and took up a pencil to write a brief note: “We were readyfeed him gruel, his swelling would worsen again and thenfor hardship at the summit. We have been safe and sound sowhat should I do, I asked myself. As we had read in Mr

far, so please tell everyone at home not to worry about us.”Wada’s letter that they might climb up there toward the end

Also, enclosing some tanka that he had made in imitationof the year, my husband said to me, “When they do climb

of Kagekiyo’s noh songs, he wrote, “I live from day to day

up here, then, let’s ask them to have Mr and Mrs Satō inby writing such songs and singing them from time to time,

Nakahata send us what we need. Let's write down a fullso please take comfort from this.” My husband passed thelist of everything.” So I warmed the ink at the hearth, andnote to Keizō and said: “Please don’t give them the wrong

made up a list for adzuki beans, sugar, pickled plums, dried

impression, I beg of you. When you get down, don’t tell ouroranges, noodles, and other many things. However, placed

family and friends that I’m ill. If you break this promise,

as we were, it was far from certain that Mr Wada would be

you’ll alarm our family and others, and things will go hardable to pay us a visit. All we could do was to draw strengthfor us. So I implore you to keep this a secret.” So said myfrom our hopes, faint as they were, and by making jokes

husband, and the two guests, vainly trying to hold backabout our plight: “Even if we starve ourselves to death...”their tears, gave him their solemn oath. Keizō now faced

we used to say. Time passed by and it was already the 21stme and said, “As of old, it has gone without saying that anyof the month. This day was the anniversary of our grandfa-

man who undertakes a great project needs enormous pa-

ther’s death, so we were moved to hold a small memorial

tience, and the wholehearted support of their wives too, andservice. My husband wrote our grandfather’s posthumous

we have often found many such examples in books here

Buddhist name, Sanyūkenkanyadaikoji, on a sheet of paper,and there. Now I see the truth of this with my own eyes. I

put it up on the front wall, and dedicated a piece of ice to

ask you only to keep taking good care of yourselves.” Thus

him. I placed a bowl of soup there with a scrap of flatbread.

they encouraged us, bid us farewell, and went on their way.

Then the two of us bowed low before the deity. Being in

Left alone, my husband said nothing and closed his eyes

such a place, we had nothing much to offer. Just as we

as if deeply moved by the kindness of our visitors. As forwere saying our prayers and asking the deity to accept ourmyself, I found myself suffused with happiness, as if a deep

thoughts, we heard voices outside the window, over the

red peony of kind thoughts had bloomed within me. Later,sound of the wind. We strained our ears, wondering if it was

we opened and read the other letters.

a dream, listening intently. Four people were standing at--- (the rest omitted) ---the door, it seemed, saying they’d come up from Gotemba.

published on 25 January, 1896 (Meiji 29).

They told us that Mr Wada and many others had climbed
with them. Mr Wada and the others had remained at the14.

eighth station, leaving the four others to make a dash for

From around the beginning of December, my husband’s

the summit. Then they’d dug a way down to the hut, which

condition gradually worsened and his limbs swelled likethey’d found buried in snow. “As we have prepared rice and− 78 −

Chiyoko s Fuji: Selected excerpts from the English translation of Fuyō-Nikki (1896)

warmed up at the hearth, there’s no need for you to feed us

climbed up here as Wada the private person but as Wada thehere,” they told us, saying they'd return to the eighth stationengineer, acting on the authority of His Imperial Majesty

immediately and come back again tomorrow with Mr Wada

himself. Captain Tsukushi and Officer Hiraoka are also here

and the others. With that, they all went down, heedless ofunder the mandate of His Imperial Majesty. So, whatever

my protestations.

you may say to the contrary, we must insist that you comend

The next day, on the 22 , my husband, wanting to pre-down with us. I have brought with me letters from yourpare himself before Mr Wada arrived, hurriedly cleared

father Katsuyoshi and your brother Kiyoshi, but it will de-away his sick-bed and waited. Some time just after noon,pend on your answer whether I decide to show them to you

Mr Wada, Mr Tsukushi, and Mr Hiraoka came up with theor not.” My husband said, “Now that I’ve heard that you’re

porters Katsumata Kumakichi and Nishifuji Tsurukichi.

acting on the instructions of His Imperial Majesty, it would

As Mr Wada, Mr Tsukushi, and Mr Hiraoka were there on

be unthinkable for me to hold out. Now I have no choice.

the gracious instructions of His Imperial Majesty himself,

One thing, though; if you have really climbed up here on

it would be disrespectful of me to record everything theyImperial authority, surely you would have some proof.”

said with my clumsy pen, and so I omit it here. Mr Wada

This caused Mr Tsukushi and Mr Hiraoka some consterna-and my husband spoke together, both with tears in theirtion and they admitted that it was careless of them not toeyes, sometimes they lowered their voices, sometimes they

have brought any proof. But Mr Wada looked outraged, andraised them, or they widened their eyes. My husband was

said, “Itaru, in your lamentable condition, do you still doubt

concerned that, if he retreated from the mountain too easily,me? When things come to this pass, there’s no need to show

meteorological observations would suffer from now on. On

any proof. How dare you doubt me!” Thus he chided him.

the other hand, Mr Wada, taking his cue from earlier visi-

My husband replied, “No, I do not doubt your word, buttors, said, “I can see that your state of health is completely

please calm down, and do try to understand my position. To

out of balance. I can hardly recognise you; indeed, I feelgo down right now would not be easy because I vowed that

as if I’m looking at a different man altogether. If you want

I would spend the winter up here. If I descend because of

to live, it’s time to go down. When we last parted, you said

some trivial indisposition, I will feel very awkward towards

to me, ‘If I should feel my life was in danger, I’d do mythe public and the experts in this science. That was theutmost to go down the mountain before something fatal

thinking behind my intemperate words, which I now regret.

happened. This would be for my future projects. Please

No, I don’t need to see any evidence from you. However,

never accuse me of faint-heartedness.’ Surely that was what

my wish is one day to build a large Imperial Observatory.

you said?” My husband said, “What you say is true, but I

And if I can’t make sure of this, I would not be sorry to

don’t think I’m yet so ill that I could die today or tomorrow.

give up my life right here and now. If I go down, the pub-

However, I really appreciate your kind intentions. I do wish

lic will wrongly conclude that surviving the winter on Mt

that you would give me medicine to carry out my mission.”

Fuji is some sort of impossible feat or dream, and this will

published on 26 January, 1896 (Meiji 29).

prevent me from building another observatory. Such are myconcerns. What would your advice be? What would you

15.

do in my place?” Thus my husband sought to ensure that

Mr Wada said, “Since your spirit is so strong, I’ma large observatory would one day be built, but at last he

tempted to do as you wish. However, an indomitable spirit

humbly submitted to the Imperial will. Mr Wada and myis not necessarily allied to a strong constitution. When I

husband spoke so cogently and were so full of sympathy

see your state of health, I’m not convinced that you canfor each other’s position that everybody who listened tohold out. Please understand that, on this occasion, I haven’t

their words had tears in their eyes, both the Captain and the− 79 −

仁愛大学研究紀要

人間学部篇

第 12 号

2013

Police Officer, Kumakichi and Tsurukichi, the porters, andus, the steepest part of the descent awaited, as did a huge

myself too. At last, my husband made up his mind to leave

waterfall, both places of great peril. Even in summer, thesethe mountain, at least for a time, and Mr Wada gave a sighwere dangerous passages to cross, much more so now thatof relief, and walked into the instrument room. I followed

they were buried under snow and ice, and we couldn’t see

him and said, “For seven years, my husband has devoted

where to go. Somebody said, “This way, since the snow ishimself totally to this venture. So it would crush him to give

soft, we could avoid slipping. Let’s go this way.” Anotherup now. Won’t you let him stay here a while, so that he canperson said, “No, no. Climbing down that rock would be

realise his dream.” At this, Mr Wada raised his voice andbetter.” With such-and-such advice, everybody did theirsaid, “Even for a woman, you can’t be that unreasonable.

best, and words cannot express the gratitude we felt.

I am impressed by your boldness, but can’t you see that,

Just as we were poised half-way down the steepest pas-

the state your husband’s in, he’ll die if he stays up here. Bysage, my husband, who had been bed-ridden until that

now, there should be enough observations, anyway. And,

morning, suddenly seemed to give up the ghost and clutched

if any mishaps should occur, his loyalty would turn into

at his chest. Gusting from in front, the cold blizzard almost

disloyalty.” When he said this, I fell to the ground and criedseemed to cut through him as it blew. Totally exhausted as

my eyes out. Oh, my husband was so sick. Surely there was

he was, he could hardly breathe. When the crushing weight

no God or Buddha in this world. Thus I grieved in my heart.

on his chest made him writhe in pain, his supporters sent a

published on 29 January, 1896 (Meiji 29).

desperate message for help down to the people at the eighth
station, and with their help somehow got him into the hut.

16.

By then, my husband was totally frozen, his eyes were tight

Meanwhile, time flew by. “Hurry, hurry, while the weath-shut, and he was barely breathing. Mr Wada, Captain Tsu-

er holds,” Mr Wada and the others urged. But my husband

kushi, Officer Hiraoka and others spent the whole evening

and I were feeble, weakened by our present and past ill-

trying to revive my husband with charcoal pocket warmers.

nesses, and so the porters hoisted us onto their backs, andSometime in the middle of the night, my husband started

made ready to leave the hut. In all, we had held out here

to show some slight signs of life and, for the first time, ourfor three months, defying the wind and snow. As would becompanions allowed themselves a sigh of relief. Since I had

expected, being so sorry to leave, my husband composed abeen carried down about sixty yards ahead of my husband,verse;

I didn’t know what had happened to him on the way down
as I lay inside the hut. Soon, though, I heard the people

Like a bow of cherry birch
I will soon spring backSo, do not thinkThat I go for longbustling around me fall silent and the mood turned sombre. Then I heard my husband being set down close to thehearth, and I heard somebody crash down behind me andKumakichi, who was willing to lay down his life for mystart sobbing. Startled, I looked up, and saw Kumakichi,

husband and had served him wholeheartedly, carried my

who was usually brave enough to crush ogres. That terrified

husband. I was carried by Tsurukichi, snugly wrapped in ame, as I surmised that my husband had succumbed, andblanket. And we started to look for the descent path. The

even now, when I recall that moment, I can feel my hair

blizzard that sometimes blew from inside the crater was sostand on end. Afterwards, my husband said that he thought,

rumbustious that the two porters had to stand as firm as theat this moment, that he’d become some kind of wandering

two Deva kings against the blast, with four or five people

spirit of Mt Fuji.

supported them on either side. Shoring each other up like

Mr Wada gave me a hat and gloves and took great care ofthis, our party finally reached the Ginmeisui pond. Below

us. If the porters were to slip on the ice or the wind were to− 80 −

Chiyoko s Fuji: Selected excerpts from the English translation of Fuyō-Nikki (1896)

As far as the eye can see
This is only possible in this Emperor’s prosperous reign

blow us over, then the hat and the gloves would help protect
us, he said. Again, he organised a carrying party for each ofus. It was admirable, the way he did everything for us withsuch care and attention.

An endless stream of people from near and far, visited

published on 30 January, 1896 (Meiji 29).

and consoled us, one after another, friends and strangers
alike. Some gave us favourite paper charms, which piled

17.

up into a big heap. Before dawn of the next day, Dr Miurard

The next day, on the 23 , Mr Wada gave us the milk

paid us a visit as an emissary of the Imperial University,that he carried all the way for us two. When we’d sippedand gave us a careful examination, to everybody’s relief.

it down, we truly felt as if we were coming back to life.

My husband and his father, to say nothing of myself, were

When we left the hut shortly afterwards, people were con-overwhelmed by the unparalleled honour of a visit from acerned about the crushing sensation on our chests, so theymember of the university. As Mr Wada left for Ōiso, leav-joined two wooden load-carrying frames together and madeing us in the care of Dr Yoshizuru, he beamed at us: “Now I

chairs, so that my husband and I could sit on them, and thus

can relax,” he said, as he bade us take care of ourselves.

arrayed we continued on our way down the mountain. Mr

The hut owner Yoheiji, his wife and Shigeko nursed us

Wada, Captain Tsukushi and Officer Hiraoka walked always

devotedly day and night at the hut, so that we could rest

beside us, and took good care of us. In a while, we arrived

thoroughly and recover from our exhaustion.

at the third station, and found that a willing crowd of villag-

Meanwhile, my husband had been setting down not only

ers from the foot of the mountain had been preparing foodhis observation results but also notes on a suitable location

for us. Dr Uryū was there too, from the village of Fukara,for a larger observatory in the future, how it should be built

and he gave us an examination and some cordial. Then, as

and laid out, as well as the kind of fuel, food and clothing

we went down past the upper second station, Tarōbō, andits occupants would need. Our ordeal had revealed a great

Umagaeshi, Mr Murai, the village head and others wel-

many things that needed to be written up in detail, he said.

comed us, giving us more food and all necessary attention.

Given a sufficiently sturdy hut, it should not be difficult to

There were a great many people waiting. At the upper sec-

survive the cold and the storms, he thought. Neither would

ond station, they put us on a cart and people eagerly vied topose a threat if a hut could be built from brick. Also, if thegrab hold of its long shafts, and I felt extremely happy androoms were large enough for the occupants to take exercise,reassured. That night, probably around nine o’clock, we ar-there would be no danger of weakening one’s constitution.

rived at Yoheiji’s house in Takigawara. Here, my father-in-

One would need to take exercise indoors, of course, because

law was waiting. Mr Wada and others also dropped by, andthe dangers of going for a stroll outside were unthinkable inhelped to lift us out of the cart and set us on the ground. My

such a place. Also, depending on where the hut was built,

husband could not open his frost-bitten eyelids. But he put

it should be easy enough to equip it with a bath. A brickhis hand up to his father’s face and said, “I’m sorry that I

building would keep the wind out, so that one could takefell ill. But don’t worry about me.” Though at first I could

off one’s clothes and wash properly. With facilities suchonly see tears, I added, “It is a great joy to see you, Father,as these, and three or four people taking turns to read thebut I am so sorry that we were forced to come down be-

instruments day and night, it should not be difficult to makecause of illness.” Later we heard that this costly rescue had

observations continuously, throughout the year. Comparedbeen launched with full official approval.

with our own experience, this would be as easy as riding

Ocean and mountains

on the back of an ox; the task should be completely without
difficulty.

− 81 −

仁愛大学研究紀要

人間学部篇

even people in other countries could enjoy the benefits. But

2013spirited Meiji women). In Rekishi Dokuhon 53 (4), 94-100.

“Would it not be wonderful if, in this way, the learning of
this Emperor’s reign could be widely disseminated, so that

第 12 号

Summary in Japanese ( 和文抄録 )this will no doubt cost a great deal of money, so my purpose

野中千代子著『芙蓉日記』は，1896 年，報知新聞

now is to dedicate myself wholeheartedly to raising theに 17 回のシリーズで掲載され，2006 年，復刻版が平necessary funds.” Thus my husband.

凡社ライブラリーより野中至の『富士案内』と共に『富Now it is the time to end my tale. For his part, Captain

士案内・芙蓉日記』として大森久雄の編集で出版されHiguchi from Higashi-Kusabuka in the city of Shizuoka,

た．前代未聞の冬季富士山滞在による高層気象観測を

composed the following poem:

夫妻で敢行した顛末が，妻である野中千代子の目を通On hearing that Mr Nonaka had returned to Tōkyō
after his long sojourn on the summit of Mt Fuji.
No matter how deep
The winter snows pile on Mt Fuji
Never will they bury
The fame of this great feat.

して語られる．苦難の生活さえ明るく前向きに生きる
強い意志・忍耐力・実行力を持つ明治女性の姿は，自然災害からの復興と経済の再生を目指す現代において，我々にひとつのあるべき姿を示している．今回の拙稿では，イントロダクションと共に抜粋英訳を試みた．

published on 1 February, 1896 (Meiji 29).
キーワード：富士山越冬記録、紀行文、明治の女性

Acknowledgement
I would like to express my heartfelt gratitude to Mr Michio

1 Higuchi Ichiyō (May 2, 1872 – November 23, 1896)

Masunaga, who helped me with the interpretation of the original

2 waka, a Japanese classic poem consisting of 31 syllables

text by Chiyoko, and to Mr Martin Hood, who kindly edited the

3 The Great Tōhoku earthquake and other natural disasters indraft. Any remaining defects in the translation are entirely mine.

recent years
4 Recession and deflation

References

5 From Prime Minister Abe’s speech at the U.N. General AssemblyBernstein, Andrew. (2013). Weathering Fuji: Marriage,

on September 26th, 2013.

Meteorology, and the Meiji Bodyscape. In Japan at Nature's

6 In a letter delivered on Oct. 1, Clinton expressed her support for

Edge: The Environmental Context of a Global Power.

Abe’s initiative to create “a society in which women shine,”

Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press. 152-174.

which he announced in a speech at the U.N. (Yomiuri Shimbun,

Iwabuchi, Hiroko. & Kitada, Sachie. (2005). Hajimete-manabu

October 26, 2013)

Nihon josei bungakushi: Kin-Gendai (A history of

7 This translation excerpts is based on Fuyō-nikki in Fuji An-

Japanese women writers: Modern/Contemporary times).

nai / Fuyō-nikki Heibonsha Library 563, published in 2006.

Tokyo: Minervashobō.

pp 175-225. Tōkyō: Heibonsha. First published in a series of

Keene, Donald. (1989). Travelers of a hundred ages: The

17 episodes in Hōchi-shinbun Newspaper between January

Japanese as revealed through 1,000 years of diaries. New

7th and February 1st, 1896. The whole text was published in

York: Henry Holt & Co.

“Shōkokumin” in 1899.

Nitta, Jirō. (1975). Fuyō-no-hito. Tōkyō: Bungei Shunjū.

8 thirty or so syllables: waka, a Japanese classic poem consisting

Nonaka, Itaru. & Nonaka, Chiyoko. (2006). Fuji An-nai / Fuyō-

Nikki. Ōmori Hisao (ed.) Tokyo: Heibonsha Library.

of 31 letters
9 The original uses a pun “kurai-keri” with double meanings “ate”

Ōmori, Hisao. (2006). Kaisetsu: Meiji no fūfuai niyoru tankenkōdō(Commentary: an expedition by a Meiji couple). In Fuji An-nai/ Fuyō-Nikki. Ōmori Hisao (ed.) Tokyo: Heibonsha Library.
Ōmori, Hisao. (2008). Nonaka Chiyoko: Fūfu de idonda Fujisanchō no kishō kansoku (Weather observation a husband and awife challenged on Fuji summit). (Special issue: Biographies of− 82 −and “was hit by.”