owner’smanual[ single and multi speed

Owner’s Responsibility

See inside back cover for Warranty Registration

This manual contains important information regarding the safe operation and maintenance of your bicycle. Read all sections
and appendices before you ride your new bicycle, and carefully follow the instructions. Instructions preceded by the words
NOTE, CAUTION, or WARNING are of special significance.
NOTE: Instructions which are of special interest.
CAUTION:

Iindicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, may result in minor or moderate injury,
or is an alert against unsafe practices.

WARNING:

Indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, could result in serious injury or death.

Theft and Warranty Information• Record all numbers shown on the bicycle.
• Be sure to fill out warranty information online (or mail in if you do not have access to a computer).
NOTE: The serial number is not on record where your bicycle was sold or manufactured, you must register it.
Keep the following information along with a copy of your sales receipt.
Serial Number:_______________________________________________________________________________
Model Name:________________________________________________________________________________Store Purchased From:_________________________________________________________________________
Purchase Date:______________________________________________________________________________
Color:_____________________________________________________________________________________
Size:______________________________________________________________________________________• Lock your bicycle securely whenever it is out of your sight.
• Also, carefully follow the instructions in any additional literature supplied with the bicycle.
WARNING:

Before your first ride, check the brakes and all cam action retention devices. Service, if necessary, is describedin the maintenance section of this manual.

• Register your bicycle with your local law enforcement agency & National Bike Registry.
• Report any theft immediately.
• Add your bicycle to your homeowner’s or apartment insurance policy.

Serial Number Locations

WARNING:MUST READ BEFORE RIDING• Obtain, read, and follow Owner’s Manual.
• Check bike after assembly or any adjustments. Consult local bicycle shop with questions.
• Always wear a helmet.
• Children should never ride after dusk or at night.
• Before each ride, check that the front wheel is firmly attached and the brakes are in proper working condition.
• Adults should never ride after dusk or at night, unless absolutely necessary. If it is absolutely necessary, you musttake steps to make yourself visible. (See Owner’s Manual for requirements).
• On wet roads, apply brakes early and gradually.

At Diamondback Bicycles we are concerned about your safety and well-being.
This is why we ask that you read and fully understand your owner’s manual before riding your new bike.

OWNER’S MANUAL
9th Edition, 2007
This manual meets EN Standards 14764, 14766 and 14781.

IMPORTANT:This manual contains important safety, performance,and service information.
Read it before you take the first ride on your new bicycle,
and keep it for reference.
Additional safety, performance and service information for specific components
such as suspension or pedals on your bicycle, or for accessories such as helmets
or lights that you purchase, may also be available. Make sure that your dealer has
given you all the manufacturers’ literature that was included with your bicycleor accessories. In case of a conflict between the instructions in this manual andinformation provided by a component manufacturer, always follow the component
manufacturer’s instructions.
If you have any questions or do not understand something
it is your responsibility, for your own safety, to consult
with your dealer or the bicycle’s manufacturer.
NOTE:
This manual is not intended as a comprehensive
use, service, repair or maintenance manual.
Please see your dealer for all service, repairs or maintenance.
Your dealer may also be able to refer you to classes, clinics orbooks on bicycle use, service, repair or maintenance.
AN IMPORTANT MESSAGE TO PARENTS:
This Manual contains important safety information. For your child's safety,
it is your responsibility to review this information with your child and make surethat your child understands all warnings, cautions, instructions and safety topics.
We recommend that you periodically review and reinforce
the information in this Manual with younger riders.
Review Appendix E with your child before letting them ride the bicycle.

Contents
GENERAL WARNING..................................................................................................................... p. 3
A special note to parents............................................................................................................. p. 3
1. First
A. Bike Fit ........................................................................................................................... P. 4
B. Safety First...................................................................................................................... P. 4
C. Mechanical Safety Check................................................................................................ P. 4
D. First Ride......................................................................................................................... P. 6
2. Safety
A. The Basics...................................................................................................................... P. 7
B. Riding Safety................................................................................................................... P. 8
C. Off Road Safety............................................................................................................... P. 8
D. Wet Weather Riding......................................................................................................... P. 9
E. Night Riding.................................................................................................................... P. 9
F. Extreme, Downhill, Stunt, Or Competition Riding............................................................ P. 10
G. Changing Components Or Adding Accessories............................................................... P. 11
3. Fit
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.

Standover Height........................................................................................................... P. 12
Saddle Position............................................................................................................. P. 12
Handlebar Height And Angle.......................................................................................... P. 14
Control Position Adjustments......................................................................................... P. 15
Brake Reach................................................................................................................. P. 15

4. Technical Information
A. Wheels ......................................................................................................................... P. 16
1. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices............................................................... P. 17
2. Wheels with Cam Action Systems ........................................................................... P. 18
3. Removing and Installing Wheels............................................................................... P. 18
B. Seat Post Cam Action Clamp......................................................................................... p. 22
C. Brakes ......................................................................................................................... p. 22
D. Shifting Gears............................................................................................................... p. 24
E. Pedals ......................................................................................................................... p. 27
F. Bicycle Suspension....................................................................................................... p. 28
G. Tires and Tubes............................................................................................................. p. 28
5. Electric Bicycles
A. Electric Bike Components ........................................................................................ P. 30
B. General Use and FAQ............................................................................................... P. 33
C. Riding........................................................................................................................... P. 37
D. Electric Bike Care ...................................................................................................... P.41

4

6. Service
A. Service Intervals..................................................................................... p. 41
B. If Your Bicycle Sustains An Impact......................................................... p. 43
Appendix A: Intended Use ........................................................................................................ p. 44
Appendix B: Lifespan of your bike and its components ............................................................. p. 47
Appendix C: Coaster Brakes .................................................................................................... p. 50
Appendix D: Fastener Torque Specifications ............................................................................. p. 50
Appendix E: Teaching Your Child the Rules ............................................................................ p. 51
Appendix F: Bicycling In Traffic ............................................................................................... p. 52
Appendix G: Training Wheel & Accessory Installation................................................................. . p. 53

5.

GENERAL WARNING:
Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and damage. By choosing to ride a bicycle, you
assume the responsibility for that risk, so you need to know - and to practice - the rules of safe andresponsible riding and of proper use and maintenance. Proper use and maintenance of your bicycle
reduces risk of injury.
This Manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” concerning the consequences of failure to
maintain or inspect your bicycle and of failure to follow safe cycling practices.
• The combination of thesafety alert symbol and the word WARNING indicates a potentiallyhazardous situation which, if not avoided, could result in serious injury or death.
• The combination of thesafety alert symbol and the word CAUTION indicates a potentiallyhazardous situation which, if not avoided, may result in minor or moderate injury, or is an alert against
unsafe practices.
• The word CAUTION used without the safety alert symbol indicates a situation which, if not
avoided, could result in serious damage to the bicycle or the voiding of your warranty.
Many of the Warnings and Cautions say “you may lose control and fall.” Because any fall can result
in serious injury or even death, we do not always repeat the warning of possible injury or death.
Because it is impossible to anticipate every situation or condition which can occur while riding, thisManual makes no representation about the safe use of the bicycle under all conditions. There are risks
associated with the use of any bicycle which cannot be predicted or avoided, and which are the sole
responsibility of the rider.

A special note for parents:
As a parent or guardian, you are responsible for the activities and safety of your minor
child, this includes making sure that the bicycle is properly fitted to the child; that it
is in good repair and safe operating condition; that you and your child have learned andunderstand the safe operation of the bicycle; and that you and your child have learned,
understand and obey not only the applicable local motor vehicle, bicycle and traffic laws,
but also the common sense rules of safe and responsible bicycling. As a parent, you must
read this manual, as well as review its warnings and the bicycle’s functions and operatingprocedures with your child, before letting your child ride the bicycle.
WARNING:
Make sure that your child always wears an approved bicycle helmet whenriding; but also make sure that your child understands that a bicycle helmet is for bicycling
only, and must be removed when not riding. A helmet must not be worn while playing, inplay areas, on playground equipment, while climbing trees, or at any time while not riding
a bicycle. Failure to follow this warning could result in serious injury or death.

61.	First
NOTE: All operators must read and understand all sections of this owner’s manual before their initial
operation of the bicycle. If after reading this manual in its entirety you have any questions, pleasecontact your authorized dealer for clarification or an explanation of specific topics that you are
unsure about. Please note that not all bicycles have all of the features described in this manual.
Ask your dealer to point out the features of your specific bicycle.
A. Bike Fit
1. Is your bike the right size? To check, see Section 3.A. If your bicycle is too large or too small
for you, you may lose control and fall. If your new bike is not the right size, ask your dealer toexchange it before you ride it.
2. Is the saddle at the right height? To check, see Section 3.B. If you adjust your saddle height,
follow the Minimum Insertion instructions in Section 3.B.
3. Are saddle and seatpost securely clamped? A correctly tightened saddle will allow no saddle
movement in any direction. See Section 3.B.
4. Are the stem and handlebars at the right height for you? If not, see Section 3.C.
5. Can you comfortably operate the brakes? If not, you may be able to adjust their angle andreach. See Section 3.D and 3.E.
6. Do you fully understand how to operate your new bicycle? If not, before your first ride, haveyour dealer explain any functions or features which you do not understand.
B.	Safety First
1. Always wear an approved helmet when riding your bike, and follow the helmet manufacturer’s
instructions for fit, use and care.
2. Do you have all the other required and recommended safety equipment? See Section 2. It’s
your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the areas where you ride, and tocomply with all applicable laws.
3. Do you know how to correctly secure your front and rear wheels? Check Section 4.A. to makesure. Riding with an improperly secured wheel can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage
from the bicycle, and cause serious injury or death.
4. If your bike has toeclips and straps or clipless (“step-in”) pedals, make sure you know how
they work (see Section 4.E). These pedals require special techniques and skills. Follow thepedal manufacturer’s instructions for use, adjustment and care.
5. Do you have “toe overlap”? On smaller framed bicycles your toe or toeclip may be able tocontact the front wheel when a pedal is all the way forward and the wheel is turned. Read
Section 4.E. If you have toeclip overlap.
6. Does your bike have suspension? If so, check Section 4.F. Suspension can change the way a bicycle
performs. Follow the suspension manufacturer’s instructions for use, adjustment and care.
C. Mechanical Safety Check
Routinely check the condition of your bicycle before every ride.
1. Nuts, bolts, screws & other fasteners: Because manufacturers use a wide variety of fastenersizes and shapes made in a variety of materials, often differing by model and component,
the correct tightening force or torque cannot be generalized. To make sure that the many
fasteners on your bicycle are correctly tightened, refer to the Fastener Torque Specificationsin Appendix D of this manual or to the torque specifications in the instructions provided by
the manufacturer of the component in question. Correctly tightening a fastener requires a7

calibrated torque wrench. A professional bicycle mechanic with a torque wrench should
torque the fasteners on your bicycle. If you choose to work on your own bicycle, you mustuse a torque wrench and the correct tightening torque specifications from the bicycle orcomponent manufacturer or from your dealer. If you need to make an adjustment at home orin the field, we urge you to exercise care, and to have the fasteners you worked on checkedby your dealer as soon as possible.
WARNING:

Correct tightening force on fasteners – nuts, bolts, screws – on your bicycle is important. Too

little force, and the fastener may not hold securely. Too much force, and the fastener can strip threads,
stretch, deform or break. Either way, incorrect tightening force can result in component failure, which cancause you to lose control and fall.

2. Make sure nothing is loose. Lift the front wheel off the ground by two or three inches, then let
it bounce on the ground. Anything sound, feel or look loose? Do a visual and tactile inspection of
the whole bike. Are there any loose parts or accessories? If so, secure them. If you’re not sure,ask someone with experience to check.
3. Tires & Wheels: Make sure tires are correctly inflated (see Section 4.G.1). Check by putting
one hand on the saddle, one on the intersection of the handlebars and stem, then bouncing
your weight on the bike while looking at tire deflection. Compare what you see with how it
looks when you know the tires are correctly inflated; and adjust if necessary.
Tires in good shape? Spin each wheel slowly and look for cuts in the tread and sidewall.
Replace damaged tires before riding the bike.
Wheels true? Spin each wheel and check for brake clearance and side-to-side wobble. If a
wheel wobbles side to side even slightly, or rubs against or hits the brake pads, take the biketo a qualified bike shop to have the wheel trued.
CAUTION:

Wheels must be true for rim brakes to work effectively. Wheel truing is a skill which requires
Do not attempt to true a wheel unless you have the knowledge, experience andtools needed to do the job correctly.
special tools and experience.

Wheel rims clean and undamaged? Make sure the rims are clean and undamaged at the tire
bead and if you have rim brakes, along the braking surface. Check to make sure that any rim
wear indicator marking is not visible at any point on the wheel rim.
WARNING: Bicycle wheel rims are subject to wear. Ask your dealer about wheel rim wear. Some wheel rims
have a rim wear indicator which becomes visible as the rim’s braking surface wears. A visible rim wear
indicator on the side of the wheel rim is an indication that the wheel rim has reached its maximum usable life.
Riding a wheel that is at the end of its usable life can result in wheel failure, which can cause you to lose
control and fall.
4. Brakes: Check the brakes for proper operation (see Sections 4.C). Squeeze the brakelevers. Are the brake quick-releases closed? All control cables seated and securely
engaged? If you have rim brakes, do the brake pads contact the wheel rim squarely andmake full contact with the rim? Do the brakes begin to engage within an inch of brake lever
movement? Can you apply full braking force at the levers without having them touch thehandlebar? If not, your brakes need adjustment. Do not ride the bike until the brakes areproperly adjusted by a professional bicycle mechanic.
8

5. Wheel retention system: Make sure the front and rear wheels are correctly secured.
See Section 4.A
6. Seat post: If your seat post has an over-center cam action fastener for easy height adjustment,
check that it is properly adjusted and in the locked position. See Section 4.B.
7. Handlebar and saddle alignment: Make sure the saddle and handlebar stem are parallel tothe bike’s center line and clamped tight enough so that you can’t twist them out of alignment.
See Sections 3.B and 3.C.
8. Handlebar ends: Make sure the handlebar grips are secure and in good condition. If not, haveyour dealer replace them. Make sure the handlebar ends and extensions are plugged. If not, plugthem before you ride. If the handlebars have bar end extensions, make sure they are clamped
tight enough so you can’t twist them.
WARNING:
Loose or damaged handlebar grips or extensions can cause you to lose control and fall.
Unplugged handlebars or extensions can cut you and cause serious injury in an otherwise minor accident.
VERY IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE:
Please also read and become thoroughly familiar with the important information on thelifespan of your bicycle and its components in Appendix B on Page 36.
D. First Ride
When you buckle on your helmet and go for your first familiarization ride on your new bicycle, besure to pick a controlled environment, away from cars, other cyclists, obstacles or other hazards.
Ride to become familiar with the controls, features and performance of your new bike.
Familiarize yourself with the braking action of the bike (see Section 4.C). Test the brakes atslow speed, putting your weight toward the rear and gently applying the brakes, rear brake first.
Sudden or excessive application of the front brake could pitch you over the handlebars. Applying
brakes too hard can lock up a wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall. Skidding is
an example of what can happen when a wheel locks up.
If your bicycle has toeclips or clipless pedals, practice getting in and out of the pedals. Seeparagraph B.4 above, Section 4.E.3, and Section 4.E.4.
If your bike has suspension, familiarize yourself with how the suspension responds to brakeapplication and rider weight shifts. See paragraph B.6 above and Section 4.F.
Practice shifting the gears (see Section 4.D). Remember to never move the shifter while pedaling
backward, nor pedal backwards immediately after having moved the shifter. This could jam thechain and cause serious damage to the bicycle.
Check out the handling and response of the bike; and check the comfort.
If you have any questions, or if you feel anything about the bike is not as it should be, consult yourdealer before you ride again.

6

2. Safety
A. The Basics
WARNING:

The area in which you ride may require specific safety devices. It is your responsibility tofamiliarize yourself with the laws of the area where you ride and to comply with all applicable laws,
including properly equipping yourself and your bike as the law requires.
Observe all local bicycle laws and regulations. Observe regulations about bicycle lighting, licensing ofbicycles, riding on sidewalks, laws regulating bike path and trail use, helmet laws, child carrier laws,
special bicycle traffic laws, and so on. It’s your responsibility to know and obey the laws. Review
A ppendix F for basic safety rules while bicycling in traffic.

An important note to parents: Appendix E of this Manual contains some rules and lessons
which adults are already expected to know, but which children need to be taught and to havefrequently reinforced. Please take the time to familiarize yourself with Appendix E as well aswith the information below, and to teach these rules to your child before you let your childride unsupervised.
1. Always wear a cycling helmet which meets the latest certification standards and isappropriate for the type of riding you do. Always follow the helmet manufacturer’s
instructions for fit, use and care of your helmet. Most serious bicycle injuries
involve head injuries which might have been avoided if the rider had worn anappropriate helmet.
WARNING:

Fig.1

Failure to wear a helmet when riding may result in serious injury or death.

2. Always do the Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C) before you get on a bike.
3. Be thoroughly familiar with the controls of your bicycle: brakes (Section 4.C.); pedals (Section
4.E.); shifting (Section 4.D.)
4. Be careful to keep body parts and other objects away from the sharp teeth of chainrings, themoving chain, the turning pedals and cranks, and the spinning wheels of your bicycle.
5. Always wear:• Shoes that will stay on your feet and will grip the pedals. Make sure that shoe laces cannot
get into moving parts, and never ride barefoot or in sandals.
• Bright, visible clothing that is not so loose that it can be tangled in the bicycle or snagged by
objects at the side of the road or trail.
• Protective eyewear, to protect against airborne dirt, dust and bugs — tinted when the sun isbright, clear when it’s not.
6. Don’t jump with your bike. Jumping a bike, particularly a BMX or mountain bike, can be fun; but
it can put huge and unpredictable stress on the bicycle and its components. Riders who insist on
jumping their bikes risk serious damage, to their bicycles as well as to themselves. Before you
attempt to jump, do stunt riding or race with your bike, read and understand Section 2.F.
7. Ride at a speed appropriate for conditions. Increased speed means higher risk.

7

B.	Riding Safety
1. Obey all Rules of the Road and all local traffic laws.
2. You are sharing the road or the path with others — motorists, pedestrians and other cyclists.
Respect their rights.
3. Ride defensively. Always assume that others do not see you.
4. Look ahead, and be ready to avoid:• Vehicles slowing or turning, entering the road or your lane ahead of you, or coming up behind you.
• Parked car doors opening.
• Pedestrians stepping out.
• Children or pets playing near the road.
• Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks, expansion joints, road or sidewalk construction,
debris and other obstructions that could cause you to swerve into traffic, catch your wheel orcause you to have an accident.
• The many other hazards and distractions which can occur on a bicycle ride.
5. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated bike paths or as close to the edge of the road as
possible, in the direction of traffic flow or as directed by local governing laws.
6. Stop at stop signs and traffic lights; slow down and look both ways at street intersections.
Remember that a bicycle always loses in a collision with a motor vehicle, so be prepared to yieldeven if you have the right of way.
7. Use approved hand signals for turning and stopping.
8. Never ride with headphones. They mask traffic sounds and emergency vehicle sirens, distract you
from concentrating on what’s going on around you, and their wires can tangle in the moving partsof the bicycle, causing you to lose control.
9. Never carry a passenger, unless it is a small child wearing an approved helmet and secured in acorrectly mounted child carrier or a child-carrying trailer.
10. Never carry anything which obstructs your vision or your complete control of the bicycle, or which
could become entangled in the moving parts of the bicycle.
11. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another vehicle.
12. Don’t do stunts, wheelies or jumps. If you intend to do stunts, wheelies, jumps or go racing with yourbike despite our advice not to, read Section 2.F, Downhill, Stunt or Competition Biking, now. Think
carefully about your skills before deciding to take the large risks that go with this kind of riding.
13. Don’t weave through traffic or make any moves that may surprise people with whom you aresharing the road.
14. Observe and yield the right of way.
15. Never ride your bicycle while under the influence of alcohol or drugs.
16. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when visibility is obscured, at dawn, dusk or in the dark,or when extremely tired. Each of these conditions increases the risk of accident.
C.	Off Road Safety
We do not recommend that children ride on rough or broken terrain even when accompanied
by an adult.
1. The variable conditions and hazards of off-road riding require close attention and specific skills.
Start slowly on easier terrain and build up your skills. If your bike has suspension, the increased
speed you may develop also increases your risk of losing control and falling. Get to know how tohandle your bike safely before trying increased speed or more difficult terrain.
2. Wear safety gear appropriate to the kind of riding you plan to do.
3. Don’t ride alone in remote areas. Even when riding with others, make sure that someone knows
where you’re going and when you expect to be back.
8

4. Always take along some kind of identification, so that people know who you are in case of an
accident; and take along a couple of dollars in cash for a candy bar, a cool drink or an emergency
phone call.
5. Yield right of way to pedestrians and animals. Ride in a way that does not frighten or endanger
them, and give them enough room so that their unexpected moves don’t endanger you.
6. Be prepared. If something goes wrong while you’re riding off-road, help may not be close.
7. Before you attempt to jump, do stunt riding, or race with your bike despite our advice against it, readand understand Section 2.F.
Off Road respect
Obey the local laws regulating where and how you can ride off-road, and respect private property.
You may be sharing the trail with others — hikers, equestrians, other cyclists. Respect their rights.
Stay on the designated trail. Don’t contribute to erosion by riding in mud or with unnecessary
sliding. Don’t disturb the ecosystem by cutting your own trail or shortcut through vegetation or
streams. It is your responsibility to minimize your impact on the environment. Leave things as you
found them; and always take out everything you brought in.
D.	Wet Weather Riding
WARNING:

Wet weather impairs traction, braking and visibility, both for the bicyclist and for other vehicles

sharing the road. The risk of an accident is dramatically increased in wet conditions.

1. Under wet conditions, the stopping power of your brakes (as well as the brakes of other vehicles
sharing the road) is dramatically reduced and your tires don’t grip nearly as well. This makes it
harder to control speed and easier to lose control. To make sure that you can slow down and stopsafely in wet conditions, ride more slowly and apply your brakes earlier and more gradually than
you would under normal, dry conditions. See also Section 4.C.
E.	Night Riding
Riding a bicycle at night is many times more dangerous than riding during the day. A bicyclist isvery difficult for motorists and pedestrians to see. Therefore, children should never ride at dawn,
at dusk or at night. Adults who chose to accept the greatly increased risk of riding at dawn, at
dusk or at night need to take extra care both riding and choosing specialized equipment whichhelps reduce that risk. Consult your dealer about night riding safety equipment.
WARNING:

Reflectors are not a substitute for required lights. Riding at dawn, at dusk, at night or at othertimes of poor visibility without an adequate bicycle lighting system and without reflectors is dangerous andmay result in serious injury or death.

Bicycle reflectors are designed to pick up and reflect street lights and car lights in a way that may
help you to be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist.
CAUTION:

Check reflectors and their mounting brackets regularly to make sure that they are clean,
Have your dealer replace damaged reflectors and straighten or
tighten any that are bent or loose.
straight, unbroken and securely mounted.

9

The mounting brackets of front and rear reflectors are often designed as brake straddle cablesafety catches which prevent the straddle cable from catching on the tire tread if the cable jumps
out of its yoke or breaks.
WARNING:

Do not remove the front or rear reflectors or reflector brackets from your bicycle. They are

an integral part of the bicycle’s safety system.

	Removing the reflectors may reduce your visibility to others using the roadway. Being struck by othervehicles may result in serious injury or death.
	The reflector brackets may protect you from the brake straddle cable catching on the tire in the event of
brake cable failure. If a brake straddle cable catches on the tire, it can cause the wheel to stop suddenly,
causing you to loose control and fall.
If you choose to ride under conditions of poor visibility, check and be sure you comply withall local laws about night riding, and take the following strongly recommended additional
precautions:• Purchase and install battery or generator powered head and tail lights which meet all regulatory
requirements and provide adequate visibility.
• Wear light colored, reflective clothing and accessories, such as a reflective vest, reflective armand leg bands, reflective stripes on your helmet, flashing lights attached to your body and/or
your bicycle ... any reflective device or light source that moves will help you get the attention of
approaching motorists, pedestrians and other traffic.
• Make sure your clothing or anything you may be carrying on the bicycle does not obstruct areflector or light.
• Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with correctly positioned and securely mounted
reflectors.
While riding at dawn, at dusk or at night:• Ride slowly.
• Avoid dark areas and areas of heavy or fast-moving traffic.
• Avoid road hazards.
• If possible, ride on familiar routes.
If riding in traffic:• Be predictable. Ride so that drivers can see you and predict your movements.
• Be alert. Ride defensively and expect the unexpected.
• If you plan to ride in traffic often, ask your dealer about traffic safety classes or a good book on
bicycle traffic safety.
F. 	Extreme, Downhill, Stunt, Or Competition Riding
Whether you call it Aggro, Hucking, Freeride, North Shore, Downhill, Jumping, Stunt Riding, Racingor something else: by engaging in this sort of extreme, aggressive riding you will get hurt and you
voluntarily assume a greatly increased risk of injury or death.
Not all bicycles are designed for these types of riding, and those that are may not be suitable forall types of aggressive riding. Check with your dealer or the bicycle’s manufacturer about thesuitability of your bicycle before engaging in extreme riding.

10When riding fast down hill, you can reach speeds seen on motorcycles, and therefore face similar
hazards and risks. Have your bicycle and equipment carefully inspected by a qualified mechanic
and be sure it is in perfect condition. Consult with expert riders and race officials on conditions andequipment advisable at the site where you plan to ride. Wear appropriate safety gear, including anapproved full face helmet, full finger gloves, and body armor. Ultimately, it is your responsibility tohave proper equipment and to be familiar with course conditions.
WARNING:

Although many catalogs, advertisements and articles about bicycling depict riders engaged in

extreme riding, this activity is extremely dangerous, increases your risk of injury or death, and increases theseverity of any injury. Remember that the action depicted is being performed by professionals with many yearsof training and experience. Know your limits and always wear a helmet and other appropriate safety gear.
Even with state-of-the-art protective safety gear, you could be seriously injured or killed when jumping,stunt riding, riding downhill at speed or in competition.

CAUTION:

Bicycles and bicycle parts have limitations with regard to strength and integrity, and this type of riding

can exceed those limitations. See Appendix B.

We recommend against this type of riding because of the increased risks; but if you choose to
take the risk, at least:• Take lessons from a competent instructor first.
• Start with easy learning exercises and slowly develop your skills before trying more difficult or
dangerous riding.
• Use only designated areas for stunts, jumping, racing or fast downhill riding.
• Wear a full face helmet, safety pads and other safety gear.
• Understand and recognize that the stresses imposed on your bike by this kind of activity may
break or damage parts of the bicycle and void the warranty.
• Take your bicycle to your dealer if anything breaks or bends. Do not ride your bicycle when any
part is damaged.
If you ride downhill at speed, do stunt riding or ride in competition, know the limits of your skill
and experience. Ultimately, avoiding injury is your responsibility.
G. Changing Components or Adding Accessories
There are many components and accessories available to enhance the comfort, performance andappearance of your bicycle. However, if you change components or add accessories, you do so at
your own risk. The bicycle’s manufacturer may not have tested that component or accessory forcompatibility, reliability or safety on your bicycle. Before installing any component or accessory,
including a different size tire, make sure that it is compatible with your bicycle by checking withyour dealer. Be sure to read, understand and follow the instructions that accompany the products
you purchase for your bicycle. See also Appendix A and Appendix B.
WARNING:

Failure to confirm compatibility, properly install, operate and maintain any component oraccessory can result in serious injury or death.

WARNING:

Changing the components on your bike with other than genuine replacement parts may compromise

the safety of your bicycle and may void the warranty. Check with your dealer before changing the components
on your bike.

11

3.	Fit
NOTE: Correct fit is an essential element of bicycling safety,
performance and comfort. Making the adjustments to yourbicycle which result in correct fit for your body and riding
conditions requires experience, skill and special tools. Always
have your dealer make the adjustments on your bicycle; or, if you
have the experience, skill and tools, have your dealer check yourwork before riding.
WARNING:
If your bicycle does not fit properly, you may lose control and fall. If your new bike doesn’tfit, ask your dealer to exchange it before you ride it.
A.	Standover Height
1.	Diamond frame bicycles
Standover height is the basic element of bike fit (see fig. 2). It is the distance from the groundto the top of the bicycle’s frame at that point where your crotch is when straddling the bike. To
check for correct standover height, straddle the bike while wearing the kind of shoes in which
you’ll be riding, and bounce vigorously on your heels. If your crotch touches the frame, the bikeis too big for you. Don’t even ride the bike around the block. A bike which you ride only on paved
surfaces and never take off-road should give you a minimum standover height clearance of two
inches (5cm). A bike that you’ll ride on unpaved surfaces should give you a minimum of threeinches (7.5cm) of standover height clearance. And a bike that you’ll use off road should give you
four inches (10cm) or more of clearance.
2.	Step-through frame bicycles
Standover height does not apply to bicycles with step-through frames. Instead, the limiting
dimension is determined by saddle height range. You must be able to adjust your saddle position
as described in B without exceeding the limits set by the height of the top of the seat tube andthe “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark on the seat post.
WARNING:

If you plan to use your bike for jumping or stunt riding, read Section 2.F again.

B.	Saddle Position
Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor in getting the most performance and comfort
from your bicycle. If the saddle position is not comfortable for you, see your dealer.
The saddle can be adjusted in three directions:
1.	Up and down adjustment.
To check for correct saddle
height (fig. 3):• sit on the saddle;• place one heel on a pedal;• rotate the crank until the pedal with your heel on it is in thedown position and the crank arm is parallel to the seat tube.
If your leg is not completely straight, your saddle height needs
to be adjusted. If your hips must rock for the heel to reach thepedal, the saddle is too high. If your leg is bent at the knee with12

your heel on the pedal, the saddle is too low.
Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal riding position and toshow you how to make this adjustment. If you choose to make your own
saddle height adjustment:• loosen the seat post clamp• raise or lower the seat post in the seat tube
• make sure the saddle is straight fore and aft• re-tighten the seat post clamp to the recommended torque (seeAppendix D or the manufacturer’s instructions).
Once the saddle is at the correct height, make sure that the seat post
does not project from the frame beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or“Maximum Extension” mark (fig. 4).
NOTE: Some bicycles have a sight hole in the seat tube, the purpose ofwhich is to make it easy to see whether the seat post is inserted
in the seat tube far enough to be safe. If your bicycle has such asight hole, use it instead of the “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum
Extension” mark to make sure the seat post is inserted in the seattube far enough to be visible through the sight hole.
If your bike has an interrupted seat tube, as is the case on somesuspension bikes, you must also make sure that the seat post is far
enough into the frame so that you can touch it through the bottom of
the interrupted seat tube with the tip of your finger without insertingyour finger beyond its first knuckle. (Also see NOTE above and fig. 5).
WARNING:
If your seat post is not inserted in the seat tube as described in B.1 above, the seat post may
break , which could cause you to lose control and fall.
2. Front and back adjustment.
The saddle can be adjusted forward or back to help you get the optimal position on the bike. Ask
your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal riding position and to show you how to make thisadjustment. If you choose to make your own front and back adjustment, make sure that the clamp
mechanism is clamping on the straight part of the saddle rails and is not touching the curved
part of the rails, and that you are using the recommended torque on the clamping fastener(s) (seeAppendix D or the manufacturer’s instructions).
3.	Saddle angle adjustment.
Most people prefer a horizontal saddle; but some riders like the saddle nose angled up or
down just a little. Your dealer can adjust saddle angle or teach you how to do it. If you choose
to make your own saddle angle adjustment and you have a single bolt saddle clamp on yourseat post, it is critical that you loosen the clamp bolt sufficiently to allow any serrations on themechanism to disengage before changing the saddle’s angle, and then that the serrations fully
re-engage before you tighten the clamp bolt to the recommended torque (see Appendix D or
the manufacturer’s instructions).

13

WARNING:

When making saddle angle adjustments with a single bolt saddle clamp, always check tomake sure that the serrations on the mating surfaces of the clamp are not worn. Worn serrations on theclamp can allow the saddle to move, causing you to lose control and fall.
	A lways tighten fasteners to the correct torque. Bolts that are too tight can stretch and deform. Bolts
that are too loose can move and fatigue. Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of the bolt, causing
you to lose control and fall.

Note: If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension seat post, the suspension mechanism may
require periodic service or maintenance. Ask your dealer for recommended service intervals foryour suspension seat post.
Small changes in saddle position can have a substantial effect on performance and comfort. To
find your best saddle position, make only one adjustment at a time.
WARNING:A fter any saddle adjustment, be sure that the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly seated

and tightened before riding. A loose saddle clamp or seat post clamp can cause damage to the seatpost, or can cause you to lose control and fall. A correctly tightened saddle adjusting mechanism willallow no saddle movement in any direction. Periodically check to make sure that the saddle adjustingmechanism is properly tightened.

If, in spite of carefully adjusting the saddle height, tilt and fore-and-aft position, your saddle isstill uncomfortable, you may need a different saddle design. Saddles, like people, come in manydifferent shapes, sizes and resilience. Your dealer can help you select a saddle which, whencorrectly adjusted for your body and riding style, will be comfortable.
WARNING:

Some people have claimed that extended riding with a saddle which is incorrectly adjusted

or which does not support your pelvic area correctly can cause short-term or long-term injury to nerves
and blood vessels, or even impotence. If your saddle causes you pain, numbness or other discomfort,
listen to your body and stop riding until you see your dealer about saddle adjustment or a different
saddle.

C. Handlebar Height And Angle
Your bike is equipped either with a “threadless” stem (Fig. 6), which clamps on to the outsideof the steerer tube, or with a “quill” stem (Fig. 7), which clamps
inside the steerer tube by way of an expanding binder bolt. If
you aren’t absolutely sure which type of stem your bike has,
ask your dealer.
If your bike has a “threadless” stem, your dealer may be able tochange handlebar height by moving height adjustment spacers
from below the stem to above the stem, or vice versa. Otherwise,
you’ll have to get a stem of different length or rise. Consult yourdealer. Do not attempt to do this yourself, as it requires special
knowledge.
If your bike has a “quill” stem, you can ask your dealer to adjust
the handlebar height a bit by adjusting stem height.
A quill stem has an etched or stamped mark on its shaft which
designates the stem’s “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum
extension”. This mark must not be visible above the headset.
14

WARNING:

A quill stem’s Minimum Insertion Mark must not be visible above the top of the headset. If

the stem is extended beyond the Minimum Insertion M ark the stem may break or damage the fork’s steerer
tube, which could cause you to lose control and fall.

WARNING:On some bicycles, changing the stem or stem height can affect the tension of the front brake
cable, locking the front brake or creating excess cable slack which can make the front brake inoperable.
If the front brake pads move in towards the wheel rim or out away from the wheel rim when the stem orstem height is changed, the brakes must be correctly adjusted before you ride the bicycle.
Some bicycles are equipped with an adjustable angle stem. If your bicycle has an adjustable
angle stem, ask your dealer to show you how to adjust it. Do not attempt to make the adjustment
yourself, as changing stem angle may also require adjustments to the bicycle’s controls.
WARNING:A lways tighten fasteners to the correct torque. Bolts that are too tight can stretch anddeform. Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue. Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of thebolt, causing you to lose control and fall.
Your dealer can also change the angle of the handlebar or bar end extensions.
WARNING:A n insufficiently tightened stem binder bolt, handlebar binder bolt or bar end extension

clamping bolt may compromise steering action, which could cause you to lose control and fall. P lace thefront wheel of the bicycle between your legs and attempt to twist the handlebar /stem assembly.

If youcan twist the stem in relation to the front wheel, turn the handlebars in relation to the stem, or turnthe bar end extensions in relation to the handlebar, the bolts are insufficiently tightened.

D. Control Position Adjustments
The angle of the brake and shift control levers and their position on the handlebars can bechanged. Ask your dealer to make the adjustments for you. Do not attempt to make theseadjustments on your own.
E. Brake Reach
Many bikes have brake levers which can be adjusted for reach. If you have small hands or find it
difficult to squeeze the brake levers, your dealer can either adjust the reach or fit shorter reachbrake levers.
WARNING:

The shorter the brake lever reach, the more critical it is to have correctly adjusted brakes,
Brake lever travel
insufficient to apply full braking power can result in loss of control, which may result in serious injury
or death.
so that full braking power can be applied within available brake lever travel.

15

4. TechNICAL INFORMATION
It’s important to your safety, performance and enjoyment to understand how things work on yourbicycle. We urge you to ask your dealer how to do the things described in this section before you
attempt them yourself, and that you have your dealer check your work before you ride the bike. If
you have even the slightest doubt as to whether you understand something in this section of theManual, talk to your dealer. See also Appendix A, B, C and D.
A.	Wheels
Bicycle wheels are designed to be removable for easier transportation and for repair of a tirepuncture. In most cases, the wheel axles are inserted into slots, called “dropouts” in the fork
and frame, but some suspension mountain bikes use what is called a “through axle” wheel
mounting system.
NOTE: If you have a mountain bike equipped with through axle front or rear wheels, make sure thatyour dealer has given you the manufacturer’s instructions, and follow those when installing or
removing a through axle wheel. If you don’t know what a through axle is, ask your dealer.
Wheels are secured in one of three ways:• A hollow axle with a shaft (“skewer”) running through it which has an adjustable tension nut on
one end and an over-center cam on the other (cam action system, figs. 8a & 8b)• A hollow axle with a shaft (“skewer”) running through it which has a nut on one end and a fitting
for a hex key, lock lever or other tightening device on the other (through bolt, fig. 9)

16• Hex nuts or hex key bolts which are threaded on to or into the hub axle (bolt-on wheel, fig. 10a)Your bicycle may be equipped with a different securing method for the front wheel than for therear wheel. Discuss the wheel securing method for your bicycle with your dealer.
It is very important that you understand the type of wheel securing method on your bicycle,that you know how to secure the wheels correctly, and that you know how to apply the correct
clamping force that safely secures the wheel. Ask your dealer to instruct you in correct wheel
removal and installation, and ask him to give you any available manufacturer’s instructions.
WARNING:
Riding with an improperly secured wheel can allow the wheel to wobble or fall off thebicycle, which can cause serious injury or death. Therefore, it is essential that you :1.	Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how to install and remove your wheels safely.
2.	Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your wheel in place.
3.	E ach time before you ride the bike, check that the wheel is securely clamped.
	The clamping action of a correctly secured wheel must emboss the surfaces of the dropouts.
1. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices
Most bicycles have front forks which utilize a secondary wheel
retention device to reduce the risk of the wheel disengaging
from the fork if the wheel is incorrectly secured. Secondary
retention devices are not a substitute for correctly securing yourfront wheel.
Secondary retention devices fall into two basic categories:a. The clip-on type is a part which the manufacturer adds tothe front wheel hub or front fork (fig. 10b).
b. The integral type is molded, cast or machined into the outerfaces of the front fork dropouts (fig. 10c).
Ask your dealer to explain the particular secondary retention
device on your bike.
WARNING:

Do not remove or disable the secondary retention device. As its name implies, it serves

as a back-up for a critical adjustment. If the wheel is not secured correctly, the secondary retention
device can reduce the risk of the wheel disengaging from the fork . Removing or disabling the secondary
retention device may also void the warranty.
	Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correctly securing your wheel. Failure to properly
secure the wheel can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage, which could cause you to lose control andfall, resulting in serious injury or death.

172. Wheels With Cam Action Systems
There are currently two types of over-center cam wheel retention mechanisms: the traditional
over-center cam (fig. 8a) and the cam-and-cup system (fig. 8b). Both use an over-center cam
action to clamp the bike’s wheel in place. Your bicycle may have a cam-and-cup front wheel
retention system and a traditional rear wheel cam action system.
a.	Adjusting the Traditional Cam Action Mechanism (fig. 8a)
The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the over-center cam pushing against one
dropout and pulling the tension adjusting nut, by way of the skewer, against the other dropout.
The amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension
adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force;
turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force.
Less than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference between safe
clamping force and unsafe clamping force.
WARNING:

The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the wheel securely. Holding the nut with one

hand and turning the lever like a wing nut with the other hand until everything is as tight as you can get it will
not clamp a cam action wheel safely in the dropouts. See also the first WARNING in this Section, p. 17.

b.	Adjusting the Cam-and-Cup Mechanism (fig. 8b)
The cam-and-cup system on your front wheel will have been correctly adjusted for your bicycleby your dealer. Ask your dealer to check the adjustment every six months. Do not use a camand-cup front wheel on any bicycle other than the one for which your dealer adjusted it.
3. Removing and Installing wheels
WARNING:

If your bike is equipped with a hub brake such as a rear coaster brake, front or rear drum, bandor roller brake ; or if it has an internal gear rear hub, do not attempt to remove the wheel. The removal andre-installation of most hub brakes and internal gear hubs requires special knowledge. Incorrect removal orassembly can result in brake or gear failure, which can cause you to lose control and fall.

CAUTION:

If your bike has a disc brake, exercise care in touching the rotor or caliper. Disc rotors have

sharp edges, and both rotor and caliper can get very hot during use.

a. Removing a Disc Brake or Rim Brake Front Wheel(1) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quick-release mechanism to increase
the clearance between the tire and the brake pads (See Section 4.C fig. 11 through 15).
(2) If your bike has cam action front wheel retention, move the cam lever from the locked or
CLOSED position to the OPEN position (figs. 8a & b). If your bike has through bolt or bolton front wheel retention, loosen the fastener(s) a few turns counter-clockwise using anappropriate wrench, lock key or the integral lever.
(3) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device, disengage it. If your front
fork has an integral secondary retention device, and a traditional cam action system(fig. 8a) loosen the tension adjusting nut enough to allow removing the wheel from thedropouts. If your front wheel uses a cam-and-cup system, (fig. 8b) squeeze the cup andcam lever together while removing the wheel. No rotation of any part is necessary with the
cam-and-cup system. You may need to tap the top of the wheel with the palm of your handto release the wheel from the front fork.
18

b.	Installing a Disc Brake or Rim Brake Front Wheel
CAUTION:

If your bike is equipped with a front disc brake, be careful not to damage the disc, caliper orbrake pads when re-inserting the disc into the caliper. Never activate a disc brake’s control lever unlessthe disc is correctly inserted in the caliper. See also Section 4.C.

(1) If your bike has cam action front wheel retention, move the cam lever so that it curves
away from the wheel (fig. 8b). This is the OPEN position. If your bike has through bolt or
bolt-on front wheel retention, go to the next step.
(2) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the fork blades so thatthe axle seats firmly at the top of the fork dropouts. The cam lever, if there is one, should
be on rider’s left side of the bicycle (fig. 8a & b). If your bike has a clip-on type secondary
retention device, engage it.
(3) If you have a traditional cam action mechanism: holding the cam lever in the ADJUST
position with your right hand, tighten the tension adjusting nut with your left hand until
it is finger tight against the fork dropout (fig. 8a). If you have a cam-and-cup system: thenut and cup (fig. 8b) will have snapped into the recessed area of the fork dropouts and no
adjustment should be required.
(4) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the fork dropouts, and at the sametime centering the wheel rim in the fork:(a) With a cam action system, move the cam lever upwards and swing it into the CLOSED
position (fig. 8a & b). The lever should now be parallel to the fork blade and curved
toward the wheel. To apply enough clamping force, you should have to wrap yourfingers around the fork blade for leverage, and the lever should leave a clear imprintin the palm of your hand.
(b) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the fasteners to the torque specificationsin Appendix D or the hub manufacturer’s instructions.
NOTE: If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position
parallel to the fork blade, return the lever to the OPEN position. Then turn the tension adjusting nut
counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try tightening the lever again.
WARNING:

Securely clamping the wheel with a cam action retention device takes considerable force. If you

can fully close the cam lever without wrapping your fingers around the fork blade for leverage, the leverdoes not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, and the serrations on the wheel fastener do notemboss the surfaces of the dropouts, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever, turn the tension adjustingnut clockwise a quarter turn, then try again. See also the first WARNING in this Section, p. 17.

(5) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the fasteners to the torque specificationsin Appendix D or the hub manufacturer’s instructions.
(6) If you disengaged the brake quick-release mechanism in 3. a. (1) above, re-engage it torestore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance.
(7) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake pads;
then squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the brakes are operating correctly.
c. Removing a Disc Brake or Rim Brake Rear Wheel(1) If you have a multi-speed bike with a derailleur gear system: shift the rear derailleur tohigh gear (the smallest, outermost rear sprocket).
19

If you have an internal gear rear hub, consult your dealer or the hub manufacturer’s
instructions before attempting to remove the rear wheel.
If you have a single-speed bike with rim or disc brake, go to step (4) below.
(2) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quick-release mechanism to increase
the clearance between the wheel rim and the brake pads (see Section 4.C, figs. 11
through 15).
(3) On a derailleur gear system, pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
(4) With a cam action mechanism, move the quick-release lever to the OPEN position (fig.
8b). With a through bolt or bolt on mechanism, loosen the fastener(s) with an appropriate
wrench, lock lever or integral lever; then push the wheel forward far enough to be able toremove the chain from the rear sprocket.
(5) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and remove it from the rear dropouts.
d.	Installing a Disc Brake or Rim Brake Rear Wheel
CAUTION:

If your bike is equipped with a rear disc brake, be careful not to damage the disc, caliper orbrake pads when re-inserting the disc into the caliper. Never activate a disc brake’s control lever unlessthe disc is correctly inserted in the caliper.

(1) With a cam action system, move the cam lever to the OPEN position (see fig. 8 a & b). The
lever should be on the side of the wheel opposite the derailleur and freewheel sprockets.
(2) On a derailleur bike, make sure that the rear derailleur is still in its outermost, high gear,
position; then pull the derailleur body back with your right hand. Put the chain on top of
the smallest freewheel sprocket.
(3) On a single-speed bike, remove the chain from the front sprocket, so that you have plentyof slack in the chain. Put the chain on the rear wheel sprocket.
(4) Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts and pull it all the way in to the dropouts.
(5) On a single speed or an internal gear hub, replace the chain on the chainring; pull thewheel back in the dropouts so that it is straight in the frame and the chain has about 1/4
inches of up-and-down play.
(6) With a cam action system, move the cam lever upwards and swing it into the CLOSED
position (fig. 8 a & b). The lever should now be parallel to the seat stay or chain stay andcurved toward the wheel. To apply enough clamping force, you should have to wrap yourfingers around the fork blade for leverage, and the lever should leave a clear imprint in
the palm of your hand.
(7) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the fasteners to the torque specificationsin Appendix D or the hub manufacturer’s instructions.
NOTE: If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position
parallel to the seat stay or chain stay, return the lever to the OPEN position. Then turn the tension
adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try tightening the lever again.
WARNING:

Securely clamping the wheel with a cam action retention device takes considerable force. If

you can fully close the cam lever without wrapping your fingers around the seat stay or chain stay forleverage, the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, and the serrations on thewheel fastener do not emboss the surfaces of the dropouts, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever ;turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn ; then try again. See also the first WARNING
in this Section, p. 17.
20

(8) If you disengaged the brake quick-release mechanism in 3. c. (2) above, re-engage it torestore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance.
(9) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake pads;
then squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the brakes are operating correctly.
e. Removing A Bolt-on Front Wheel(1) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quick-release mechanism to open theclearance between the tire and the brake pads (see Section 4.C, figs. 11 through 15).
(2) Using a correct size wrench, loosen the two axle nuts.
(3) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device, disengage it and go to thenext step. If your front fork has an integral secondary retention device, loosen the axle
nuts enough to allow wheel removal; then go to the next step.
(4) Raise the front wheel a few inches off the ground and tap the top of the wheel with thepalm of your hand to knock the wheel out of the fork ends.
f.	Installing A Bolt-on Front Wheel(1) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the fork blades so thatthe axle seats firmly at the top of the slots which are at the tips of the fork blades. The
axle nut washers should be on the outside, between the fork blade and the axle nut. If
your bike has a clip-on type secondary retention device, engage it.
(2) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the fork dropouts, and at thesame time centering the wheel rim in the fork, use the correct size wrench to tighten
the axle nuts enough so that the wheel stays in place; then use a wrench on each nut
simultaneously to tighten the nuts to 180 - 240 inch pounds.
(3) Re-engage the brake quick-release mechanism to restore correct brake pad-to-rim
clearance; spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears
the brake pads; then squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the brakes areoperating correctly.
g. Removing A Bolt-on Rear Wheel
WARNING:

If your bike is equipped with an internal gear rear hub, do not attempt to remove therear wheel. The removal and re-installation of internal gear hubs require special knowledge. Incorrect
removal or assembly can result in hub failure, which can cause you to lose control and fall.

(1) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quick-release mechanism to open theclearance between the tire and the brake pads (see Section 4.C, figs. 11 through 15).
(2) Shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest rear sprocket) and pull the derailleur
body back with your right hand.
(3) Using the correct size wrench, loosen the two axle nuts.
(4) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and, with the derailleur still pulled back,push the wheel forward and down until it comes out of the rear dropouts.
h.	Installing A Bolt-on Rear Wheel(1) Shift the rear derailleur to its outermost position and pull the derailleur body back withyour right hand.
21

(2) Put the chain on to the smallest sprocket. Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts
and pull it completely in to the dropouts. The axle nut washers should be on the outside,
between the frame and the axle nut.
(3) Using the correct size wrench, tighten the axle nuts enough so that the wheel stays inplace; then use a wrench on each nut simultaneously to tighten the nuts to 240 - 300
inch pounds.
(4) Push the rear derailleur back into position.
(5) If you disengage the brake quick-release mechanism in 3.g. (1) above, re-engage it torestore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance.
(6) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake pads;
then squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the brakes are operating correctly.
B.	Seatpost Cam Action Clamp
Some bikes are equipped with a cam action seat post binder. The seatpost cam action binder
works exactly like the traditional wheel cam action fastener (Section 4.A.2) While a cam action
binder looks like a long bolt with a lever on one end and a nut on the other, the binder uses anover-center cam action to firmly clamp the seat post (see figs. 8a & 8b).
WARNING:

Riding with an improperly tightened seat post can allow the saddle to turn or move and cause

you to lose control and fall. Therefore :1.	Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how to correctly clamp your seat post.
2.	Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your seat post.
3. Before you ride the bike, first check that the seatpost is securely clamped.
Adjusting The Seatpost Cam Action Mechanism
The action of the cam squeezes the seat collar around the seat post to hold the seat post securely
in place. The amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning thetension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating increases clamping
force; turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping
force. Less than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference between safeand unsafe clamping force.
WARNING:

The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the seatpost securely. Holding the nut

with one hand and turning the lever like a wing nut with the other hand until everything is as tight as you
can get it will not clamp the seatpost safely.

WARNING:

If you can fully close the cam lever without wrapping your fingers around the seat post or aframe tube for leverage, and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension
is insufficient. Open the lever ; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn ; then try again.

C. Brakes
There are three general types of bicycle brakes: rim brakes, which operate by squeezing thewheel rim between two brake pads; disc brakes, which operate by squeezing a hub-mounted
disc between two brake pads; and internal hub brakes. All three can be operated by way ofa handlebar mounted lever. On some models of bicycle, the internal hub brake is operated bypedaling backwards. This is called a Coaster Brake and is described in Appendix C.
22

WARNING:
1.	Riding with improperly adjusted brakes, on wheels on which the rim
wear mark is visible, or worn brake pads is dangerous and can result
in serious injury or death.
2.	A pplying brakes too hard or too suddenly can lock up a wheel,
which could cause you to lose control and fall. Sudden orexcessive application of the front brake may pitch the rider over thehandlebars, which may result in serious injury or death.
3.	Some bicycle brakes, such as disc brakes ( fig. 11) and linearpull brakes ( fig .12), are extremely powerful . Take extra care inbecoming familiar with these brakes and exercise particular carewhen using them.

4.	Some bicycle brakes are equipped with a brake force modulator, asmall, cylindrical device through which the brake control cable runs
and which is designed to provide a more progressive application ofbraking force. A modulator makes the initial brake lever force moregentle, progressively increasing force until full force is achieved. If
your bike is equipped with a brake force modulator, take extra carein becoming familiar with its performance characteristics.
5.	Disc brakes can get extremely hot with extended use. Be careful not
to touch a disc brake until it has had plenty of time to cool.
6.	See the brake manufacturer’s instructions for installation, operationand care of your brakes. If you do not have the manufacturer’s
instructions, see your dealer or contact the brake manufacturer.
7. If replacing worn or damaged parts, use only manufacturer-approved
genuine replacement parts.

1. Brake Controls And Features
It’s very important to your safety that you learn and remember
which brake lever controls which brake on your bike. Traditionally,
the right brake lever controls the rear brake and the left brakelever controls the front brake; but, to make sure your bike’s
brakes are set up this way, squeeze one brake lever and look to
see which brake, front or rear, engages. Now do the same with theother brake lever.
Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze the brakelevers comfortably. If your hands are too small to operate thelevers comfortably, consult your dealer before riding the bike. The
lever reach may be adjustable; or you may need a different brakelever design.
Most brakes have some form of quick-release mechanism toallow the brake pads to clear the tire when a wheel is removed orreinstalled. When the brake quick release is in the open position,
the brakes are inoperative. Ask your dealer to make sure that you
understand the way the brake quick release works on your bike(see figs. 11 through 15) and check each time to make sure bothbrakes work correctly before you get on the bike.
23

2. How Brakes Work
The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the friction between the brake surfaces. To makesure that you have maximum friction available, keep your wheel rims and brake pads or the discrotor and caliper clean and free of dirt, lubricants, waxes or polishes.
Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to stop the bike. Maximum braking force foreach wheel occurs at the point just before the wheel “locks up” (stops rotating) and starts to skid.
Once the tire skids, you actually lose most of your stopping force and all directional control. You
need to practice slowing and stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel. The technique iscalled progressive brake modulation. Instead of jerking the brake lever to the position where you
think you’ll generate appropriate braking force, squeeze the lever, progressively increasing thebraking force. If you feel the wheel begin to lock up, release pressure just a little to keep the wheel
rotating just short of lockup. It’s important to develop a feel for the amount of brake lever pressure
required for each wheel at different speeds and on different surfaces. To better understand this,experiment a little by walking your bike and applying different amounts of pressure to each brakelever, until the wheel locks.
When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow, but your body wants to continue atthe speed at which it was going. This causes a transfer of weight to the front wheel (or, underheavy braking, around the front wheel hub, which could send you flying over the handlebars).
A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake pressure before lockup; a wheel withless weight will lock up with less brake pressure. So, as you apply brakes and your weight istransferred forward, you need to shift your body toward the rear of the bike, to transfer weightback on to the rear wheel; and at the same time, you need to both decrease rear braking andincrease front braking force. This is even more important on descents, because descents shiftweight forward.
Two keys to effective speed control and safe stopping are controlling wheel lockup andweight transfer. This weight transfer is even more pronounced if your bike has a front
suspension fork. Front suspension “dips” under braking, increasing the weight transfer (seealso Section 4.F). Practice braking and weight transfer techniques where there is no traffic
or other hazards and distractions.
Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced,
so the wheels have less cornering and braking traction and can lock up with less brake force.
Moisture or dirt on the brake pads reduces their ability to grip. The way to maintain control onloose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly to begin with.
D.	Shifting Gears
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain (see 1. below), an internal gear hub
drivetrain (see 2. below) or, in some special cases, a combination of the two.
1. How A Derailleur Drivetrain Works
If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-changing mechanism will have:• a rear cassette or freewheel sprocket cluster• a rear derailleur• usually a front derailleur• one or two shifters• one, two or three front sprockets called chainrings• a drive chain

24

a.	A Brief Note About Shifting Gears
There are several different types and styles of shifting controls: levers, twist grips, triggers,
combination shift/brake controls, push-buttons, and so on. Ask your dealer to explain the typeof shifting controls that are on your bike, and to show you how they work.
The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confusing. A downshift is a shift to a “lower” or“slower” gear, one which is easier to pedal. An upshift is a shift to a “higher” or “faster”,
harder to pedal gear. What’s confusing is that what’s happening at the front derailleur isthe opposite of what’s happening at the rear derailleur (for details, read the instructions on
Shifting the Rear Derailleur and Shifting the Front Derailleur below). For example, you canselect a gear which will make pedaling easier on a hill (make a downshift) in one of two
ways: shift the chain down the gear “steps” to a smaller gear at the front, or up the gear
“steps” to a larger gear at the rear. So, at the rear gear cluster, what is called a downshift
looks like an upshift. The way to keep things straight is to remember that shifting thechain in towards the centerline of the bike is for accelerating and climbing and is called adownshift. Moving the chain out or away from the centerline of the bike is for speed and iscalled an upshift.
Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle derailleur system design requires that thedrive chain be moving forward and be under at least some tension. A derailleur will shift only
if you are pedaling forward.
CAUTION:

Never move the shifter while pedaling backward, nor pedal backwards immediately after

having moved the shifter. This could jam the chain and cause serious damage to the bicycle.

b.	Shifting The Rear Derailleur
The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter.
The function of the rear derailleur is to move the drive chain from one gear sprocket toanother. The smaller sprockets on the gear cluster produce higher gear ratios. Pedaling
in the higher gears requires greater pedaling effort, but takes you a greater distance witheach revolution of the pedal cranks. The larger sprockets produce lower gear ratios. Using
them requires less pedaling effort, but takes you a shorter distance with each pedal crankrevolution. Moving the chain from a smaller sprocket of the gear cluster to a larger sprocket
results in a downshift. Moving the chain from a larger sprocket to a smaller sprocket
results in an upshift. In order for the derailleur to move the chain from one sprocket toanother, the rider must be pedaling forward.
c.	Shifting The Front Derailleur:The front derailleur, which is controlled by the left shifter, shifts
the chain between the larger and smaller chainrings. Shifting thechain onto a smaller chainring makes pedaling easier (a downshift).
Shifting to a larger chainring makes pedaling harder (an upshift).
d. Which Gear Should I Be In?
The combination of largest rear and smallest front gears is for the
steepest hills; the smallest rear and largest front combination isfor the greatest speed (fig. 16). It is not necessary to shift gears insequence. Instead, find the “starting gear” which is right for yourlevel of ability — a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration
but easy enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling — andFig.1625

experiment with upshifting and downshifting to get a feel for the different gear combinations.
At first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or other traffic, until you’ve
built up your confidence. Learn to anticipate the need to shift, and shift to a lower gear before
the hill gets too steep. If you have difficulties with shifting, the problem could be mechanicaladjustment. See your dealer for help.
WARNING:

Never shift a derailleur onto the largest or the smallest sprocket if the derailleur is notshifting smoothly. The derailleur may be out of adjustment and the chain could jam, causing you to lose
control and fall.

e. What If It Won’t Shift Gears?
If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails to result in a smooth shift to the nextgear chances are that the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take the bike to your dealer tohave it adjusted.
2. How An Internal Gear Hub Drivetrain Works
If your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, the gear changing mechanism will consist of:• a 3, 5, 7, 8, 12 speed or possibly an infinitely variable internal gear hub• one, or sometimes two shifters• one or two control cables• one front sprocket called a chainring• a drive chaina.	Shifting Internal Gear Hub Gears
Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a matter of moving the shifter to theindicated position for the desired gear. After you have moved the shifter to the gear positionof your choice, ease the pressure on the pedals for an instant to allow the hub to complete
the shift.
b. Which Gear Should I Be In?
The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills. The numerically largest gear
depending on the number of speeds of your hub, is for the greatest speed.
Shifting from an easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to a harder, “faster” gear (like 2 or 3) is called an
upshift. Shifting from a harder, “faster” gear to an easier, “slower” gear is called a downshift. It
is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the “starting gear” for the conditions— a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy enough to let you start froma stop without wobbling — and experiment with upshifting and downshifting to get a feel forthe different gears. At first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or othertraffic, until you’ve built up your confidence. Learn to anticipate the need to shift, and shift toa lower gear before the hill gets too steep. If you have difficulties with shifting, the problem
could be mechanical adjustment. See your dealer for help.
c. What If It Won’t Shift Gears?
If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails to result in a smooth shift to the nextgear chances are that the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take the bike to your dealer tohave it adjusted.

26

E. Pedals
1. Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the front wheel when you turn the handlebars to steer
while a pedal is in the forwardmost position. This is common on small-framed bicycles, and isavoided by keeping the inside pedal up and the outside pedal down when making sharp turns.
This technique will also prevent the inside pedal from striking the ground in a turn.
WARNING:Toe Overlap could cause you to lose control and fall. Ask your dealer to help you determine

if the combination of frame size, crank arm length, pedal design and shoes you will use results in pedal
overlap. If you have overlap, you must keep the inside pedal up and the outside pedal down when making
sharp turns.

2. Some bicycles come equipped with pedals that have sharp and potentially dangerous surfaces.
These surfaces are designed to add safety by increasing grip between the rider’s shoe and thepedal. If your bicycle has this type of high-performance pedal, you must take extra care to avoid
serious injury from the pedals’ sharp surfaces. Based on your riding style or skill level, you may
prefer a less aggressive pedal design, or chose to ride with shin pads. Your dealer can show you
a number of options and make suitable recommendations.
3. Toeclips and straps are a means to keep feet correctly positioned and engaged with the pedals.
The toeclip positions the ball of the foot over the pedal spindle, which gives maximum pedaling
power. The toe strap, when tightened, keeps the foot engaged throughout the rotation cycle ofthe pedal. While toeclips and straps give some benefit with any kind of shoe, they work mosteffectively with cycling shoes designed for use with toeclips. Your dealer can explain how toeclips
and straps work. Shoes with deep treaded soles or welts which might allow the foot to be trappedshould not be used with toeclips and straps.
WARNING:

Getting into and out of pedals with toeclips and straps requires skill which can only be

acquired with practice. Until it becomes a reflex action, the technique requires concentration which candistract your attention and cause you to lose control and fall. Practice the use of toeclips and straps
where there are no obstacles, hazards or traffic. K eep the straps loose, and don’t tighten them until
your technique and confidence in getting in and out of the pedals warrants it. Never ride in traffic withyour toe straps tight.

4. Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in pedals”) are another means to keep feet securely inthe correct position for maximum pedaling efficiency. They have a plate, called a “cleat,” on thesole of the shoe, which clicks into a mating spring-loaded fixture on the pedal. They only engage
or disengage with a very specific motion which must be practiced until it becomes instinctive.
Clipless pedals require shoes and cleats which are compatible with the make and model pedal
being used.
Many clipless pedals are designed to allow the rider to adjust the amount of force needed toengage or disengage the foot. Follow the pedal manufacturer’s instructions, or ask your dealer toshow you how to make this adjustment. Use the easiest setting until engaging and disengaging
becomes a reflex action, but always make sure that there is sufficient tension to prevent
unintended release of your foot from the pedal.
WARNING:C lipless pedals are intended for use with shoes specifically made to fit them and are
Do not use shoes which do not engage thepedals correctly.
designed to firmly keep the foot engaged with the pedal .

27

WARNING:

Practice is required to learn to engage and disengage the foot safely. Until engaging anddisengaging the foot becomes a reflex action, the technique requires concentration which can distract
your attention and cause you to lose control and fall. Practice engaging and disengaging cliplesspedals in a place where there are no obstacles, hazards or traffic ; and be sure to follow the pedal
manufacturer’s setup and service instructions. If you do not have the manufacturer’s instructions, see
your dealer or contact the manufacturer.

F. Bicycle Suspension
Many bicycles are equipped with suspension systems. There are many different types ofsuspension systems — too many to deal with individually in this Manual. If your bicycle has asuspension system of any kind, be sure to read and follow the suspension manufacturer’s setup
and service instructions. If you do not have the manufacturer’s instructions, see your dealer orcontact the manufacturer.
WARNING:

Failure to maintain, check and properly adjust the suspension system may result in suspension

malfunction, which may cause you to lose control and fall.

If your bike has suspension, the increased speed you may develop also increases your risk of
injury. For example, when braking, the front of a suspended bike dips. You could lose control
and fall if you do not have experience with this system. Learn to handle your suspension systemsafely. See also Section 4.C.
WARNING:

Changing suspension adjustment can change the handling and braking characteristics ofyour bicycle. Never change suspension adjustment unless you are thoroughly familiar with the suspension
system manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations, and always check for changes in the handlingand braking characteristics of the bicycle after a suspension adjustment by taking a careful test ride ina hazard-free area .

Suspension can increase control and comfort by allowing the wheels to better follow the terrain.
This enhanced capability may allow you to ride faster; but you must not confuse the enhanced
capabilities of the bicycle with your own capabilities as a rider. Increasing your skill will take timeand practice. Proceed carefully until you have learned to handle the full capabilities of your bike.
CAUTION:

Not all bicycles can be safely retrofitted with some types of suspension systems. Before

retrofitting a bicycle with any suspension, check with the bicycle’s manufacturer to make sure that what you
want to do is compatible with the bicycle’s design. Failing to do so can result in catastrophic failure.

G. Tires and Tubes
1.	TiresBicycle tires are available in many designs and specifications, ranging from general-purpose
designs to tires designed to perform best under very specific weather or terrain conditions. If,once you’ve gained experience with your new bike, you feel that a different tire might better
suit your riding needs, your dealer can help you select the most appropriate design.
The size, pressure rating, and on some high-performance tires the specific recommended
use, are marked on the sidewall of the tire (see fig. 17). The part of this information which ismost important to you is Tire Pressure.

28

WARNING:

Never inflate a tire beyond the maximum pressure marked on the tire’s sidewall. E xceeding

the recommended maximum pressure may blow the tire off the rim, which could cause damage to the bikeand injury to the rider and bystanders.

The best and safest way to inflate a bicycle tire to the correct pressure is with a bicycle pumpwhich has an accurate built-in pressure gauge.
WARNING:

There is a safety risk in using gas station air hoses or other air compressors. They are notmade for bicycle tires. They move a large volume of air very rapidly, and will raise the pressure in yourtire very rapidly, which could cause the tube to explode.

Tire pressure is given either as maximum pressure or as apressure range. How a tire performs under different terrain or
weather conditions depends largely on tire pressure. Inflating
the tire to near its maximum recommended pressure gives thelowest rolling resistance; but also produces the harshest ride.
High pressures work best on smooth, dry pavement.
Very low pressures, at the bottom of the recommended
pressure range, give the best performance on smooth, slick
terrain such as hard-packed clay, and on deep, loose surfaces
such as deep, dry sand.
Tire pressure that is too low for your weight and the riding conditions can cause a puncture of the
tube by allowing the tire to deform sufficiently to pinch the inner tube between the rim and theriding surface.
CAUTION:

Pencil type automotive tire gauges can be inaccurate and should not be relied upon for

consistent, accurate pressure readings. Instead, use a high quality dial gauge.

Ask your dealer to recommend the best tire pressure for the kind of riding you will most oftendo, and have the dealer inflate your tires to that pressure. Then, check inflation as described in
Section 1.C.3. so you’ll know how correctly inflated tires should look and feel when you don’t
have access to a gauge. Some tires may need to be brought up to pressure every week or two.
Some special high-performance tires have unidirectional treads: their tread pattern is designed
to work better in one direction than in the other. The sidewall marking of a unidirectional tire will
have an arrow showing the correct rotation direction. If your bike has unidirectional tires, be surethat they are mounted to rotate in the correct direction.
2.	Tire Valves
There are primarily two kinds of bicycle tube valves: The Schrader Valve and the
Presta Valve. The bicycle pump you use must have the fitting appropriate to thevalve stems on your bicycle.
The Schrader valve (fig. 18a) is like the valve on a car tire. To inflate a Schrader
valve tube, remove the valve cap and clamp the pump fitting onto the end of thevalve stem. To let air out of a Schrader valve, depress the pin in the end of thevalve stem with the end of a key or other appropriate object.
The Presta valve (fig. 18b) has a narrower diameter and is only found on bicycle
tires. To inflate a Presta valve tube using a Presta headed bicycle pump, remove
29

the valve cap; unscrew (counterclockwise) the valve stem lock nut; and push down on thevalve stem to free it up. Then push the pump head on to the valve head, and inflate. To inflatea Presta valve with a Schrader pump fitting, you’ll need a Presta adapter (available at yourbike shop) which screws on to the valve stem once you’ve freed up the valve. The adapter fits
into the Schrader pump fitting. Close the valve after inflation. To let air out of a Presta valve,
open up the valve stem lock nut and depress the valve stem.
WARNING:We highly recommend that you carry a spare inner tube when you ride your bike. Patching a tube

is an emergency repair. If you do not apply the patch correctly or apply several patches, the tube can fail,which could cause you to lose control and fall. Replace a patched tube as soon as possible.

5. ELECTRIC BIKESElectric Bike Components
MotorsElectric bicycles can be built with various types of motors, which differ in strength,
efficiency, rotational speed, mounting location, and other factors.
Electric motors are generally mounted on bicycles in one of 3 locations: the front
wheel, the rear wheel, or centrally on the seat tube or around the bottom bracket.

Hub Motors
Most wheel-mounted motors are hub-type motors. These motors sit in the center ofthe front or rear wheel, and drive that wheel directly. The hub motor’s axle is held
fixed in either the front or rear dropouts, and its shell is spun by internal electronics.
The rotation of a hub motor is independent of any bicycle drivetrain components, likethe cranks, derailleur, or cassette.
Most electric bikes use rear hub motors, meaning the motor is contained in the rear
wheel. This configuration usually gives the best handling characteristics, whichmeans the bike is easier to control; in some cases, however, a front hub motor ispreferable for a given application.
Hub motors are further classified by whether they are gearless (direct drive), or
geared. Geared motors are built with internal planetary reduction gearing. They givehigh torque at low speeds, and freewheel without any drag. Gearless motors
generally reach higher speeds than geared motors, are quieter (some are completely
silent), can be rated for higher wattage, and are capable of regenerative braking (see“Does it Charge the Battery When I Pedal” on page 30). They also produce lesstorque, especially at low speed, and have some inherent drag when freewheeling.

30

Center Drive Motors
Centrally mounted motors which add power to the bike’s normal drivetrain
by driving the chainwheel are growing in popularity. These “center drive”
systems are ideal for off-road applications because of their high torque,
as well as other factors. For example, in full-suspension bikes, acenter drive motor greatly reduces unsprung weight when compared to a
hub motor.
Because they integrate with the bicycle’s standard drivetrain, center
drive motors usually require more interaction from the rider than a hub motor
does. The rider must shift the bicycle’s chain into the proper position fora given situation: high gear for speed, low gear for torque. This extra effort ispaid back by a system that is able to excel in a wide variety of terrains.

Motor PowerElectric bike motors are generally classified by wattage and torque. Watts area measurement of the capacity of the motor to do work. A motor that is consuming
more watts feels more powerful and usually reaches higher speeds, but drains thebattery faster. Torque is measured in Newton-meters and is a measurement of
the rotating force produced by the motor. This is most felt when starting from astandstill or climbing a hill.

Does It Charge The Battery When I Pedal?
Generally, no. Like electric cars, some electric bikes are able to push a small amount of
power back into the battery as the wheel spins. This is called regeneration. When amotor is regenerating power, its drag increases significantly, slowing the bike down. For
this reason, “regen” mode is usually triggered when the rider depresses the bike’s
brake lever.
Only direct drive hub motors can be used to regenerate power because they arealways engaged (the coils inside the motor are always moving). Geared hub motors
freewheel(their coils remain stationary when not powered), so they cannot generate power.
Center drive motors cannot generate power for the same reason: the spinning wheel ismechanically disengaged from the electrical system except while the motor is running.

Pedal-Assist Sensors
Most electric bikes use pedal assist sensors to naturally combine the motor’s effort withthe rider’s. The most common sensors electronically measure pedal crank rotation(cadence), pedal pressure (torque), or wheel speed. Many bikes make use of all three
types together.

31

Throttles
Most electric bikes sold in the United States are equipped with a throttle. Likeon a motorcycle, throttles are designed to let the user apply 0-100% of the
motor’s power at will. Depending on the bike, the throttle either acts
independently, or in tandem with a pedal assist sensor.

BrakesThe brakes on an electric bike are the same as on a normal bike, with
one exception: most have integrated cutoff switches which kill the motor
when activated. These “inhibitor” switches are a safety feature designed toprevent the motor from accidentally engaging and causing injury. If for any
reason you need the motor to stop turning, remember to simply squeeze one of
the brake levers.

CAUTION:
instructions provided with your bike to learn more about its specific features.
WARNING:You should check the operation of your brake inhibitor
switches before every ride. While riding slowly in a controlledenvironment (like a driveway), engage the motor, then squeeze each brake inturn. The motor should lose power immediately and remain off as long as a brakelever is depressed.
Battery Capacity Gauges
Most electric bikes have a gauge that indicates remaining battery charge. The
gauge may be either on the battery itself, on the throttle, on an LCD display near thehandlebars, or elsewhere.
The most basic battery charge gauges are based on a simple measurementof battery voltage. This voltage is translated directly to what is shown on thedisplay; for example, the gauge may call the battery full above 36 volts, and near
empty around 32. This type of gauge is generally accurate, but because abattery’s voltage fluctuates based on its load (how much energy is being drained
from it at a given moment), the gauge will also not always be stable; it will
indicate less charge remaining while the bike is accelerating or climbing a hill, andmore when the bike is stopped or being ridden at a steady pace on flat ground.
When using a voltage-driven battery gauge, the best way to determine how much battery
life is remaining is to check the throttle LEDs after reaching cruising speed on a flatstraight road. This allows the battery voltage to stabilize at a medium load and gives thebest reading.
More advanced gauges do not rely on battery voltage. Instead, circuitry in the battery
measures exactly how much energy has left (or entered) the pack during use, and thencalculates how much charge is remaining based on that measurement (the battery’s“State of Charge”). This type of battery gauge is more accurate, and will not fluctuate
under load.

32

Battery Care & Safety
WARNING: Failure to properly use, charge, and store your battery as
instructed will void the warranty and may cause a hazardous situation. Before
using your battery for the first time, read this section of the manual in its entirety.
If you have any questions about this battery or its usage, please contact the DB
customer care department
Proper maintenance and care of batteries will maximize their lifespanand capacity. IZip warrants your new battery from the date of purchase only if
properly cared for—please refer to the limited warranty for details.
Your hybrid electric bicycle uses a Li-Ion (lithium-ion) battery. Various
types of lithium-ion batteries include LFP (Lithium Iron Phosphate), LMO (Lithium
Manganese Oxide), and others. Lithium-ion is a very user-friendly type ofbattery when cared for properly. Even with proper care, however, rechargeable
batteries do not last forever. Every time the battery is discharged andsubsequently recharged, its relative capacity decreases by a small percentage.
You can maximize the life of your battery by following the instructions in thisguide.

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Do I need to “break-in” my battery?
No. Although battery break-in may be necessary with some products, our battery
packs go through the break-in process before they leave the manufacturer.

Is it normal that the battery gets warm when recharging?
Yes, it is normal that the battery will become warm to the touch during the recharging
process.
This is because of the pack’s internal resistance and losses in energy conversion
efficiency
from electric energy to chemical energy.

33

How long will my battery last before needing replacement?
Average battery life depends on use and conditions. Even with proper care,rechargeable batteries do not last forever. Conservatively, a Li-Ion battery will last
about 500–750 cycles. A partial charge/discharge counts fractionally against thosenumbers; running the battery down halfway then recharging it completely uses up
one half of a charge cycle.
“End of useful life” refers to the point at which a battery can no longer supply 70% of
its original rated capacity in ampere-hours. After this point, the aging process will
accelerate and the battery will need to be replaced.

Does my battery have a “memory”?
No, Li-Ion batteries do not have any memory. Partial discharge/charge cycles will not harm
the battery’s capacity or performance. It is OK to charge the battery as often as isconvenient.

Charging• Be sure to read any documentation included with the battery charger, or printedon

the charger itself.

• Improper use of the battery charger can cause a fire resulting in severe injury or

death, and property damage.

• After a ride, fully recharge your battery as soon as it has cooled to room

temperature. A lithium-ion battery left in a discharged condition will deterioratemuch faster than a fully charged battery.

• Do not block the fan vent on the charger while charging the battery. This cancause the charger to overheat.

• The battery charger supplied with this battery is for INDOOR use only.
• Avoid any contact with water or other fluids while charging the battery. If thebattery, charger or any connections become wet, immediately unplug thecharger and thoroughly dry all components prior to charging the battery.

• Use only the battery charger supplied with this battery. If you use any otherbattery charger, you will void the warranty, you may damage the battery, andyou could cause a fire resulting in severe injury or death, and property damage.

• Never charge a battery continuously for longer than 12 hours.
• Charge your battery during the day and only in rooms which have a smoke or afire detector; but not in your bedroom. During the charging process, place thebattery on a non-flammable surface such as metal, ceramic, or glass.

34

Charger FCC Information
The charging equipment provided with your bike has been tested and found tocomply with the limits for a Class B digital device, pursuant to Part 15 of the
FCC Rules. These limits are designed to provide reasonable protection against
harmful interference in a residential installation.
This equipment generates, uses and can radiate radio frequency energy and, if
not installed and used in accordance with the instructions, may cause harmfulinterference to radio communications. However, there is no guarantee thatinterference will not occur in a particular installation. If this equipment does
cause harmful interference to radio or television reception, which can be
determined by turning the equipment off and on, the user is encouraged to try
to correct the interference by one or more of the following measures:• Reorient or relocate the receiving antenna.
• Increase the separation between the equipment and receiver.
• Connect the equipment into an outlet on a circuit different from that to which thereceiver is connected.
• Consult the dealer or an experienced radio/TV technician for help.

CAUTION: Changes or modifications to the battery charger not expressly
approved by the party responsible for compliance could void the user’s authority
to operate the equipment.
Storage
When storing your battery for a long period of time (longer than two months):• Remove the battery from the bike.
• Lithium-ion batteries are best stored at a 40–60% charge level. During

long term storage, recharge your battery to 40–60% every 90 days. Determine
charge level using either the built-in charge indicator on the battery pack, or thebattery gauge on the bike. Batteries slowly self-discharge when left unused for along period of time; if the battery cells are allowed to reach a critically low
voltage, their lifespan and capacity will be permanently reduced.

• Always disconnect your charger from the wall outlet and battery before storing
the battery.

• Avoid storing your battery in extreme temperatures, whether hot or cold.
• Batteries are best kept in a cool, dry place. Do not allow your battery toaccumulate condensation, as this could cause corrosion or a short-circuit.

• The recommended storage temperature for Li-Ion batteries is between 32–77°F(0–25°C).

35

Transport
Lithium-ion batteries are subject to many regulations, and areoften considered dangerous material by carriers. Be sure to check forrelevant laws, and ask
the carrier for approval prior to shipping alithium-ion battery, or transporting it by air.

Disposal
Be friendly to the environment! Be sure to recycle your old batteries at a
local battery-recycling center. Do not throw them in the garbage!
Check www.Call2Recycle.org for more information on free battery dropoff
locations.

SafetyWARNING:Use only the battery provided with your bicycle. Even if it is physicallypossible to connect another type of battery, it is dangerous and potentiallydamaging to do so.
•

DO NOT use this battery with any other vehicle or appliance. Use of thisbattery with any other product will void the warranty, and may create ahazardous condition that could cause a fire resulting in severe injury or death,and property damage.

•

Never disassemble the battery or open the battery case. There is a risk ofelectric shock and damage to the battery.

•

Never short circuit the discharge terminals of the battery. A short circuit will
damage the battery and could cause a fire resulting in severe injury or death,and property damage. When handling the battery outside the bicycle, be awareof conductive materials that may short the battery terminals, such as coins,
nails, etc.

•

Never crush or puncture the battery. A punctured or crushed battery could
catch fire or explode, which could lead to serious injury or death.

•Protect the battery from water or other moisture. If the battery becomes wet
from rain during use, dry it as soon as possible. Remove the battery from theelectric bicycle before washing the bicycle. Clean the battery with a dry or
slightly moist rag; do not submerge or spray with pressurized water.

•

Keep the battery away from excessive heat (104°F or higher) and/or open
flames. Avoid long term exposure to direct rays from the sun.

CAUTION:
Protect the battery from materials that may contaminate the charge port
or the output port, such as dirt and sand; the ports may be difficult or
impossible to clean out.
• To avoid damage to the battery, never subject it to intense physical shock orsevere vibration.
•

36

Riding An Electric Bike
SafetyWARNING:
Because electric bikes are faster and heavier thannormal bicycles, they require extra caution and care while riding. Failure toheed the following safety instructions could lead to a crash, injury, or death.
• Before your first ride, familiarize yourself with the model-specific operation
instructions included with your bike.

• Before traveling on streets or around others, practice riding in a safe area awayfrom pedestrians and traffic (such as a driveway or empty parking lot).

• Always use the lowest assist setting until you are comfortable with the bikeand feel confident controlling the electric assist. See the specific operation
instructions included with your bike for more information.

• When mounting your bike, make sure not to step on the pedals until you are sitting
on the saddle and gripping the handlebars tightly. If you apply pressure to thepedals, or move them, the motor assistance might switch on suddenly and resultin an uncontrolled start of your bike.

• Always wear a helmet, closed-toe shoes, and eye protection when riding.
• Never ride at a speed outside your comfort zone, or that you feel may be unsafe
for the given conditions.

• Keep your hands on the brake levers, and remember that they will always slow orstop the bike if pulled. Even on bikes without brake inhibit switches (see “Brakes”
on page 34), the brakes are always more powerful than the motor.

• Heavy electric bikes take longer to slow down; leave extra space for stopping
safely.

• Electric bikes are considerably heavier than normal bicycles. For this reason

parking, pushing, lifting and carrying the bike is more difficult. Bear this in mind
when loading your bike into a car and unloading it, or when mounting it on abicycle carrier system.

• Remember that all the information in this manual referring to bicycle safety
also applies to your electric bike.

WARNING: Make no modifications to the bike’s electrical system that are notexplicitly approved by the manufacturer.
LegalityIn the United States, electric bikes are defined as “a two- or three-wheeled vehicle withfully operable pedals and an electric motor of less than 750 watts (1h.p.), whose
maximum speed on a paved level surface, when powered solely by such a motor whileridden by an operator who weighs 170 pounds, is less than 20 mph.”37

However, local and state regulations vary, and it is your responsibility to ensure yourbike is legal in your particular area before riding it on public roads. If you’re unsure,ask your bicycle dealer for more information about local laws and regulations.

Range
Many factors affect the range that you will experience with the bicycle. These
include:• Battery state-of-charge.
• Mode setting (the bike will use less power in the pedal assist Mode due to therequired contribution of the rider).

• Tire inflation pressure.
• Adjustment of the wheel bearings and brakes (tight bearings or a dragging brakeshoe will adversely affect range).

• Rider weight (it takes more energy to accelerate a heavier person).
• The speed at which you travel, and local wind conditions (air resistance increases
exponentially with speed).

• Terrain (road surface and hills; traveling on a soft surface, such as dirt or gravel,
or climbing a hill uses energy faster).

• Lots of starts and stops (full power from a standing start draws the most amperage
from the battery).

How To Maximize Your Range• Fully charge your battery before each ride.
• Ride in pedal assist mode and pedal! Enjoy the health benefits available fromcycling. Every watt of power that you provide is one watt less that the battery has
to provide. Make your bicycle a true human/electric hybrid!

• Check your tire pressure regularly and inflate the tires to the maximum pressure
printed on the tire sidewall.

• Have your bicycle serviced periodically to ensure that the bearings turn freely andthe brakes do not rub the rims (or rotors, for a disc brake) when they are notapplied.

• Minimize the weight that you carry.
• Ride at slower speeds.
• Accelerate gently. Assist the system by pedaling as you accelerate to yourcruising speed.

Hills
If you encounter a hill that causes the speed of your bicycle to drop
below 7 miles per hour (11 kilometers per hour) on electric power only
(throttle mode with no pedaling) with the throttle fully applied, PEDAL toassist the bicycle up the hill.
38

Failure to do so could overstress the motor and controller, possibly causing thosecomponents to overheat. Further, failure to pedal up steep hills to assist the bicycle
will overstress the battery, reducing its capacity and shortening its useful life.

Weather Conditions
Your electric bike is built with components that are sealed against dust and water,
and can safely operate in most weather conditions. To ensure the longest life of yourcomponents, avoid submerging the parts in water.

WARNING: To avoid risk of electric shock and property damage, neversubmerge any of the bike’s electrical components in a liquid.
WARNING: Electric bikes are faster and heavier than normal bikes. Whenriding in wet weather, you should use extra caution. You are more likely to fallfrom a wet road surface when traveling at high speed. Heavy electric bikes
also take longer to slow down, and the required stopping distance in wet
weather is even greater; be sure to leave ample room for stopping, and brakegently and evenly to avoid falling.

Riding An Off-Road Electric Bicycle
Please see Riding an Off-Road Safety, page 8.

Riding A High-Speed Electric Bicycle
High-speed electric bikes are capable of easily traveling over 20 miles per hour. The
same principles of operation, and the same safety considerations, apply as with otherelectric bicycles. However, even more caution must be taken because the higher
speed of travel makes accidents more likely.
• Only ride at a speed at which you’re comfortable. Just because the bicycle iscapable of reaching high speed does not mean you must ride it at high speed.

• Make sure you consider how you are perceived by other road users. Cars,

pedestrians and other cyclists will often underestimate your speed, and makedecisions assuming you are traveling slower than you are. Be especially vigilant
around driveways and intersections, or anywhere with cross traffic.

• Use extra caution when overtaking other cyclists or pedestrians; the greater

difference in speed increases the risk and severity of a crash.

• Local laws may prohibit the use of high-speed electric bicycles on bike paths ortrails. Be sure you are familiar with the laws in your area. Even if legal, it isusually not safe to ride at high speed on paths or trails around other users.

• Always wear a helmet, bright-colored clothing, and suitable glasses while riding

at high speeds.

39

WARNING:
Do not tow a trailer using a high-speed electric bicycle. Higher
speeds can cause instability and lead to a crash.

Riding A Center-Drive Bike
Operation
Since a center drive (like the Bosch or TranzX system) outputs power through the
bike’s normal drivetrain, the rider needs to be more active in controlling motor output
than on a bike with a hub motor. This is done by shifting the bicycle’s gears.
Say a rider on a bike with a hub motor twists the throttle to 100%. The motor in
response spins the bike’s wheel to 100% of its maximum speed, and the bike travels,say, 20 miles per hour. In contrast, on a bike with a center drive motor, when therider twists the throttle to 100% the motor also spins to maximum speed. However,since the motor is driving the rear wheel through the pedal chain, the bike’s current
gear affects how fast the wheel actually spins. If the bike is in second gear, the bikemay only go, say, 10 miles per hour, even though the motor is spinning at maximum
speed.
Just like on a car with a manual transmission, the rider needs to cycle through firstgear, second gear, third gear, and so on, until the desired speed is reached. Eachgear shift up increases speed but reduces torque and acceleration.
Unlike a car, though, the gear selection is not critical. You can just as easily startpedaling with the bike in 6th gear, but for the best acceleration and performance it’s agood idea to start in a low gear and shift up as you gain speed.

Hills
If your objective is not to reach maximum speed but to efficiently ride up a hill, you
should consider that the system will give you more torque when in a lower gear. Shiftdown when you encounter a steep hill; the motor will be put under less strain, andyour battery’s range will increase.

Extending The Life Of Your Drivetrain
A center drive motor can put extra stress on drivetrain components such as the chain,cassette, derailleur, and derailleur hanger if not ridden with care. The best way to avoid
excess wear on the drivetrain is to avoid shifting under load.
Shifting under load means to shift the derailleur while the motor or rider is pulling hardon the chain. The extra chain tension keeps the derailleur from shifting effectively
and can cause damage to the drivetrain.
To shift properly, make sure you ease up (on both the throttle and pedals) just before
and just after you shift. Let the chain drop into place fully before you start pedaling or
throttling hard again.

WARNING: Shifting under load can cause the chain or other drivetrain
components to break suddenly, leading to a crash.
40Electric Bike CareCAUTION: This section contains instructions that must be followed to avoid damage tothe bike or electrical components.
Like any bicycle, you should take care of your electric bike to extend its life and keep it
operating smoothly.

In addition to following the instructions in the Service section (pgs 39-41), mind the following
instructions for keeping your electric bike like new.
• Maintain your batteries as described in “Battery Care & Safety” on page 38. This isespecially important when storing batteries unused for long periods of time.

• Periodically inspect your bike’s wiring and electrical connectors for damage. Frayedor heat-damaged wires, loose plugs, or bad connections could eventually cause
damage to the system.

• Store your bike indoors. A bike left outside in the weather will deteriorate very

quickly. Never cover a stored bike with plastic as condensation buildup could cause
damage to electrical components. Battery packs especially should be kept in atemperature controlled, dry environment.

• Review all component manuals and exercise caution before applying any

chemicals, paint, or cleaning agents to the electrical components of the bike.

Electric Bike Service
If you have any questions, issues, or concerns, please contact the DB customer care
department. Do not ride a bike you suspect may not be functioning fully.
WARNING: There are no user serviceable elements incorporated into the motor,

motor controller, battery, battery charger, throttle, or wiring harness of your electricbicycle.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DISASSEMBLE OR ADJUST ANY OF THESE COMPONENTS.

Doing so may cause extensive damage to these components, will void your warranty,
and may cause a hazardous condition. If you cannot resolve a problem, contact yourauthorized dealer, or the DB technical and customer care department

6. SERVICE
wArnInG:

technologIcal advances have made BIcycles and BIcycle components more complex, and thepace of InnovatIon Is IncreasIng. It Is ImpossIBle for thIs manual to provIde all the InformatIon requIredto properly repaIr and /or maIntaIn your BIcycle. In order to help mInImIze the chances of an accIdent andpossIBle Injury, It Is crItIcal that you have any repaIr or maIntenance whIch Is not specIfIcally descrIBed In
thIs manual performed By your dealer. equally Important Is that your IndIvIdual maIntenance requIrements
wIll Be determIned By everythIng from your rIdIng style to geographIc locatIon. c onsult your dealer forhelp In determInIng your maIntenance requIrements.

WARNING: many BIcycle servIce and repaIr tasks requIre specIal knowledge and tools. do not BegIn any
adjustments or servIce on your BIcycle untIl you have learned from your dealer how to properly completethem. Improper adjustment or servIce may result In damage to the BIcycle or In an accIdent whIch can cause
serIous Injury or death.
If you want to learn to do major service and repair work on your bike, you have three options:41

1. Ask your dealer for copies of the manufacturer’s installation and service instructions for thecomponents on your bike, or contact the component manufacturer.
2. Ask your dealer to recommend a book on bicycle repair.
3. Ask your dealer about the availability of bicycle repair courses in your area.
Regardless of which option you select, we recommend that you ask your dealer to check thequality of your work the first time you work on something and before you ride the bike, just to
make sure that you did everything correctly. Since that will require the time of a mechanic, there
may be a modest charge for this service.
We also recommend that you ask your dealer for guidance on what spare parts, such as innertubes, light bulbs, etc. that would be appropriate for you to have once you have learned how to
replace such parts.
A. service Intervals
Some service and maintenance can and should be performed by the owner, and require no special
tools or knowledge beyond what is presented in this manual.
The following are examples of the type of service you should perform yourself. All other service,
maintenance and repair should be performed in a properly equipped facility by a qualified bicycle
mechanic using the correct tools and procedures specified by the manufacturer.
1. Break-in period: Your bike will last longer and work better if you break it in before riding it
hard. Control cables and wheel spokes may stretch or “seat” when a new bike is first used
and may require readjustment by your dealer. Your Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C)
will help you identify some things that need readjustment. But even if everything seems fineto you, it’s best to take your bike back to the dealer for a checkup. Dealers typically suggest
you bring the bike in for a 30 day checkup. Another way to judge when it’s time for the firstcheckup is to bring the bike in after three to five hours of hard off-road use, or about 10 to 15
hours of on-road or more casual off-road use. But if you think something is wrong with thebike, take it to your dealer before riding it again.
2. Before every ride: Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C)
3.	After every long or hard ride: If the bike has been exposed to water or grit; or at least every
100 miles: Clean the bike and lightly oil the chain. Wipe off excess oil. Lubrication is a functionof climate. Talk to your dealer about the best lubricants and the recommended
lubrication frequency for your area.
4. after every long or hard ride or after every 10 to 20 hours of riding:• Squeeze the front brake and rock the bike forward and back. Everything feel solid? If you
feel a clunk with each forward or backward movement of the bike, you probably have aloose headset. Have your dealer check it.
• Lift the front wheel off the ground and swing it from side to side. Feel smooth? If you feel
any binding or roughness in the steering, you may have a tight headset. Have your dealer
check it.
• Grab one pedal and rock it toward and away from the centerline of the bike; then do thesame with the other pedal. Anything feel loose? If so, have your dealer check it.
• Take a look at the brake pads. Starting to look worn or not hitting the wheel rim squarely?
Time to have the dealer adjust or replace them.
• Carefully check the control cables and cable housings. Any rust? Kinks? Fraying? If so,have your dealer replace them.
42

• Squeeze each adjoining pair of spokes on either side of each wheel
between your thumb and index finger. Do they all feel about the same? If
any feel loose, have your dealer check the wheel for tension and trueness.
• Check to make sure that all parts and accessories are still secure, andtighten any which are not.
• Check the frame, particularly in the area around all tube joints; thehandlebars; the stem; and the seatpost for any deep scratches, cracks or
discoloration. These are signs of stress-caused fatigue and indicate that apart is at the end of its useful life and needs to be replaced. See also
Appendix B.
wArnInG:
lIke any mechanIcal devIce, a BIcycle and Its components are suBject to wear and stress.
dIfferent materIals and mechanIsms wear or fatIgue from stress at dIfferent rates and have dIfferent
lIfe cycles. If a component’s lIfe cycle Is exceeded, the component can suddenly and catastrophIcally faIl,
causIng serIous Injury or death to the rIder. scratches, cracks, frayIng and dIscoloratIon are sIgns ofstress-caused fatIgue and IndIcate that a part Is at the end of Its useful lIfe and needs to Be replaced.
whIle the materIals and workmanshIp of your BIcycle or of IndIvIdual components may Be covered By awarranty for a specIfIed perIod of tIme By the manufacturer, thIs Is no guarantee that the product wIlllast the term of the warranty. product lIfe Is often related to the kInd of rIdIng you do and to thetreatment to whIch you suBmIt the BIcycle. the BIcycle’s warranty Is not meant to suggest that the BIcycle
cannot Be Broken or wIll last forever. It only means that the BIcycle Is covered suBject to the termsof the warranty. p lease Be sure to read a ppendIx a, Intended use of your BIcycle and a ppendIx B, thelIfespan of your BIke and Its components, startIng on page 33.
5.	As required: If either brake lever fails the Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C.4.), don’t ridethe bike. Have your dealer check the brakes.
If the chain won’t shift smoothly and quietly from gear to gear, the derailleur is out ofadjustment. See your dealer.
6.	Every 25 (hard off-road) to 50 (on-road) hours of riding: Take your bike to your dealer for acomplete checkup.
7.	At a minimum: it is required that you take your bicycle into an authorized bicycle dealer for anannual service/tune up or safety check. This is particularly important if the bicycle has beenused infrequently and is being returned to regular use.
B. If Your Bicycle Sustains An Impact:First, check yourself for injuries, and take care of them as best you can. Seek medical help if
necessary.
Next, check your bike for damage. If you see any damage, don’t ride the bike until it has
been repaired.
After any crash, take your bike to your dealer for a thorough check. Carbon composite components,
including frames, wheels, handlebars, stems, cranksets, brakes, etc. which have sustained an
impact must not be ridden until they have been disassembled and thoroughly inspected by aqualified mechanic.
See also Appendix B, Lifespan of your bike and its components.
WARNING:A crash or other impact can put extraordinary stress on bicycle components, causing them

to fatigue prematurely. C omponents suffering from stress fatigue can fail suddenly and catastrophically,
causing loss of control, serious injury or death.

43Appendix A

Intended use of your bicycle

WARNING:U nderstand your bike and its intended use . C hoosing the wrong bicycle for your purpose can be hazardous . U sing your bike the wrong

way is dangerous .

	No one type of bicycle is suited for all purposes. Your retailer can help you pick the “right tool for the job” and help you understand its
limitations. There are many types of bicycles and many variations within each type. There are many types of mountain, road, racing, hybrid,
touring, cyclocross and tandem bicycles.
	There are also bicycles that mix features. For example, there are road/racing bikes with triple cranks. These bikes have the low gearing ofa touring bike, the quick handling of a racing bike, but are not well suited for carrying heavy loads on a tour. For that purpose you want a
touring bike.
Within each of type of bicycle, one can optimize for certain purposes. Visit your bicycle shop and find someone with expertise in the area thatinterests you. Do your own homework. Seemingly small changes such as the choice of tires can improve or diminish the performance of abicycle for a certain purpose.
On the following pages, we generally outline the intended uses of various types of bikes.
Industry usage conditions are generalized and evolving. Consult your dealer about how you intend to use your bike.

High-Performance Road

CONDITION 1
Bikes designed for riding on a paved surface where the tires do not lose ground contact.
INTENDED To be ridden on paved roads only.
NOT INTENDED For off-road, cyclocross, or touring with racks or panniers.
TRADE OFF Material use is optimized to deliver both light weight and specific performance. You must understand that(1) these types of bikes are intended to give an aggressive racer or competitive cyclist a performance advantage overa relatively short product life, (2) a less aggressive rider will enjoy longer frame life, (3) you are choosing light weight(shorter frame life) over more frame weight and a longer frame life, (4) you are choosing light weight over more dent
resistant or rugged frames that weigh more. All frames that are very light need frequent inspection. These frames
are likely to be damaged or broken in a crash. They are not designed to take abuse or be a rugged workhorse. See
also Appendix B.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER

LUGGAGE*TOTAL

lbs / kglbs / kglbs / kg

275 / 125

10 / 4.5

285 / 129

* Seat Bag /Handlebar Bag Only

General Purpose Riding

CONDITION 2
Bikes designed for riding Condition 1, plus smooth gravel roads and improved trails with moderate grades where thetires do not lose ground contact.
INTENDED For paved roads, gravel or dirt roads that are in good condition, and bike paths.
NOT INTENDED For off-road or mountain bike use, or for any kind of jumping. Some of these bikes have suspension
features, but these features are designed to add comfort, not off-road capability. Some come with relatively wide
tires that are well suited to gravel or dirt paths. Some come with relatively narrow tires that are best suited to fasterriding on pavement. If you ride on gravel or dirt paths, carry heavier loads or want more tire durability talk to yourdealer about wider tires.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER

LUGGAGETOTAL

lbs / kglbs / kglbs / kg

30 / 14330 / 150

300 / 136

For Touring or Trekking
300 / 136

55 / 25355 / 161

Cross-Country, Marathon, Hardtails

CONDITION 3
Bikes designed for riding Conditions 1 and 2, plus rough trails, small obstacles, and smooth technical areas, including
areas where momentary loss of tire contact with the ground may occur. NOT jumping. All mountain bikes without rearsuspension are Condition 3, and so are some lightweight rear suspension models.
INTENDED For cross-country riding and racing which ranges from mild to aggressive over intermediate terrain(e.g., hilly with small obstacles like roots, rocks, loose surfaces and hard pack and depressions). Cross-country andmarathon equipment (tires, shocks, frames, drive trains) are light-weight, favoring nimble speed over brute force.
Suspension travel is relatively short since the bike is intended to move quickly on the ground.
44

NOT INTENDED For Hardcore Freeriding, Extreme Downhill, Dirt Jumping, Slopestyle, or very aggressive or extreme riding. No spending timein the air landing hard and hammering through obstacles.
TRADE OFF Cross-Country bikes are lighter, faster to ride uphill, and more nimble than All-Mountain bikes. Cross-Country and Marathon
bikes trade off some ruggedness for pedaling efficiency and uphill speed.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER

LUGGAGE*TOTAL

lbs / kglbs / kglbs / kg

5 / 2.3

305 / 138

300 / 136

*Seat Bag Only

Front suspension frames manufactured withoriginal equipment seat stay and dropout
rack mounts only
300 / 136

55 / 25355 / 161

All Mountain

CONDITION 4
Bikes designed for riding Conditions 1, 2, and 3, plus rough technical areas, moderately sized obstacles, and small
jumps.
INTENDED For trail and uphill riding. All-Mountain bicycles are: (1) more heavy duty than cross country bikes, butless heavy duty than Freeride bikes, (2) lighter and more nimble than Freeride bikes, (3) heavier and have moresuspension travel than a cross country bike, allowing them to be ridden in more difficult terrain, over larger obstacles
and moderate jumps, (4) intermediate in suspension travel and use components that fit the intermediate intended use,
(5) cover a fairly wide range of intended use, and within this range are models that are more or less heavy duty. Talk
to your retailer about your needs and these models.
NOT INTENDED For use in extreme forms of jumping/riding such as hardcore mountain, Freeriding, Downhill, North Shore, Dirt Jumping,
Hucking etc. No large drop offs, jumps or launches (wooden structures, dirt embankments) requiring long suspension travel or heavy duty
components; and no spending time in the air landing hard and hammering through obstacles.
TRADE OFF All-Mountain bikes are more rugged than cross country bikes, for riding more difficult terrain. All-Mountain bikes are heavier
and harder to ride uphill than cross country bikes. All-Mountain bikes are lighter, more nimble and easier to ride uphill than Freeride bikes.
All-Mountain bikes are not as rugged as Freeride bikes and must not be used for more extreme riding and terrain.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER

LUGGAGE*TOTAL

lbs / kglbs / kglbs / kg

300 / 136

5 / 2.3

305 / 138

*Seat Bag Only

Gravity, Freeride, and Downhill

CONDITION 5
Bikes designed for jumping, hucking, high speeds, or aggressive riding on rougher surfaces, or landing on flat surfaces.
However, this type of riding is extremely hazardous and puts unpredictable forces on a bicycle which may overload
the frame, fork, or parts. If you choose to ride in Condition 5 terrain, you should take appropriate safety precautions
such as more frequent bike inspections and replacement of equipment. You should also wear comprehensive safety
equipment such as a full-face helmet, pads, and body armor.
INTENDED For riding that includes the most difficult terrain that only very skilled riders should attempt.
	Gravity, Freeride, and Downhill are terms which describe hardcore mountain, north shore, slopestyle. This is “extreme”
riding and the terms describing it are constantly evolving.
	Gravity, Freeride, and Downhill bikes are: (1) heavier and have more suspension travel than All-Mountain bikes, allowing them to be ridden
in more difficult terrain, over larger obstacles and larger jumps, (2) the longest in suspension travel and use components that fit heavy duty
intended use. While all that is true, there is no guarantee that extreme riding will not break a Freeride bike.
	The terrain and type of riding that Freeride bikes are designed for is inherently dangerous. Appropriate equipment, such as a Freeride bike,does not change this reality. In this kind of riding, bad judgment, bad luck, or riding beyond your capabilities can easily result in an accident,
where you could be seriously injured, paralyzed or killed.
NOT INTENDED To be an excuse to try anything. Read Section 2. F, p. 12.			
TRADE OFF Freeride bikes are more rugged than All-Mountain bikes, for riding more difficult terrain. Freeride bikes are heavier and harder
to ride uphill than All-Mountain bikes.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER

LUGGAGE*TOTAL

lbs / kglbs / kglbs / kg

300 / 136

5 / 2.3

305 / 138

*Seat Bag Only45

Dirt Jump

CONDITION 5
Bikes designed for jumping, hucking, high speeds, or aggressive riding on rougher surfaces, or landing on flat
surfaces. However, this type of riding is extremely hazardous and puts unpredictable forces on a bicycle which
may overload the frame, fork, or parts. If you choose to ride in Condition 5 terrain, you should take appropriate
safety precautions such as more frequent bike inspections and replacement of equipment. You should also wear
comprehensive safety equipment such as a full-face helmet, pads, and body armor.
INTENDED For man-made dirt jumps, ramps, skate parks other predictable obstacles and terrain where riders need anduse skill and bike control, rather than suspension. Dirt Jumping bikes are used much like heavy duty BMX bikes.
	A Dirt Jumping bike does not give you skills to jump. Read Section 2. F, p. 12.
NOT INTENDED For terrain, drop offs or landings where large amounts of suspension travel are needed to help absorb the shock of landing
and help maintain control.
TRADE OFF Dirt Jumping bikes are lighter and more nimble than Freeride bikes, but they have no rear suspension and the suspension travelin the front is much shorter.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER

LUGGAGETOTAL

lbs / kglbs / kglbs / kg

300 / 1360/0

300 / 136

Cyclo-cross

CONDITION 2
Bikes designed for riding Condition 1, plus smooth gravel roads and improved trails with moderate grades where thetires do not lose ground contact.
INTENDED For cyclo-cross riding, training and racing. Cyclo-cross involves riding on a variety of terrain and surfaces
including dirt or mud surfaces. Cyclo-cross bikes also work well for all weather rough road riding and commuting.
NOT INTENDED For off road or mountain bike use, or jumping. Cyclo-cross riders and racers dismount before reachingan obstacle, carry their bike over the obstacle and then remount. Cyclo-cross bikes are not intended for mountain bikeuse. The relatively large road bike size wheels are faster than the smaller mountain bike wheels, but not as strong.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER

LUGGAGETOTAL

lbs / kglbs / kglbs / kg

300 / 136

30 / 13.6

330 / 150

Road Tandems

CONDITION 1
Bikes designed for riding on a paved surface where the tires do not lose ground contact.
INTENDED Are designed to be ridden on paved roads only. They are not designed for mountain biking or off-road use.
NOT INTENDED Road tandem should not be taken off-road or used as a mountain tandem.

MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER

LUGGAGETOTAL

lbs / kglbs / kglbs / kg

500 / 227

75 / 34575 / 261

46

Mountain Tandems

CONDITION 2
Bikes designed for riding Condition 1, plus smooth gravel roads and improved trails with moderate grades where thetires do not lose ground contact.
INTENDED The challenges of mountain biking are obvious. The added challenges of tandem riding mean that you
should limit off-road tandem riding to easy-moderate terrain.
NOT INTENDED For very aggressive mountain bike riding. Mountain tandems are most definitely NOT for Downhill,
Freeriding, North Shore. Choose terrain with the abilities of both the Tandem’s captain and stoker in mind.

MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER

LUGGAGETOTAL

lbs / kglbs / kglbs / kg

500 / 227

75 / 34575 / 261

Appendix B

The lifespan of your bike and its components
1.	Nothing Lasts Forever, Including Your Bike.
When the useful life of your bike or its components is over, continued use is hazardous.
	Every bicycle and its component parts have a finite, limited useful life. The length of that life will vary with the construction and materials usedin the frame and components; the maintenance and care the frame and components receive over their life; and the type and amount of use towhich the frame and components are subjected. Use in competitive events, trick riding, ramp riding, jumping, aggressive riding, riding on severe
terrain, riding in severe climates, riding with heavy loads, commercial activities and other types of non-standard use can dramatically shorten
the life of the frame and components. Any one or a combination of these conditions may result in an unpredictable failure.
	All aspects of use being identical, lightweight bicycles and their components will usually have a shorter life than heavier bicycles and theircomponents. In selecting a lightweight bicycle or components you are making a trade-off, favoring the higher performance that comes withlighter weight over longevity. So, If you choose lightweight, high performance equipment, be sure to have it inspected frequently.
You should have your bicycle and its components checked periodically by your dealer for indicators of stress and/or potential failure,including cracks, deformation, corrosion, paint peeling, dents, and any other indicators of potential problems, inappropriate use or abuse.
These are important safety checks and very important to help prevent accidents, bodily injury to the rider and shortened product life.
2. Perspective
	Today’s high-performance bicycles require frequent and careful inspection and service. In this Appendix we try to explain some underlying
material science basics and how they relate to your bicycle. We discuss some of the trade-offs made in designing your bicycle and what you
can expect from your bicycle; and we provide important, basic guidelines on how to maintain and inspect it. We cannot teach you everything
you need to know to properly inspect and service your bicycle; and that is why we repeatedly urge you to take your bicycle to your dealer for
professional care and attention.

WARNING:

Frequent inspection of your bike is important to your safety. Follow the Mechanical Safety Check in Section 1.C of this Manual before

every ride .

	Periodic, more detailed inspection of your bicycle is important. How often this more detailed inspection is needed depends upon you.
	You, the rider /owner, have control and knowledge of how often you use your bike, how hard you use it and where you use it. Because your dealer cannot
track your use, you must take responsibility for periodically bringing your bike to your dealer for inspection and service. Your dealer will help you
decide what frequency of inspection and service is appropriate for how and where you use your bike.
	For your safety, understanding and communication with your dealer, we urge you to read this A ppendix in its entirety. The materials used to make yourbike determine how and how frequently to inspect.
Ignoring this WARNING can lead to frame, fork or other component failure, which can result in serious injury or death.
A. Understanding metals
	Steel is the traditional material for building bicycle frames. It has good characteristics, but in high performance bicycles, steel has
been largely replaced by aluminum and some titanium. The main factor driving this change is interest by cycling enthusiasts inlighter bicycles.
Properties of Metals
	Please understand that there is no simple statement that can be made that characterizes the use of different metals for bicycles.
What is true is how the metal chosen is applied is much more important than the material alone. One must look at the way the bike isdesigned, tested, manufactured, supported along with the characteristics of the metal rather than seeking a simplistic answer.
	Metals vary widely in their resistance to corrosion. Steel must be protected or rust will attack it. Aluminum and Titanium quickly
develop an oxide film that protects the metal from further corrosion. Both are therefore quite resistant to corrosion. Aluminum is not
perfectly corrosion resistant, and particular care must be used where it contacts other metals and galvanic corrosion can occur.
	Metals are comparatively ductile. Ductile means bending, buckling and stretching before breaking. Generally speaking, of the common
bicycle frame building materials steel is the most ductile, titanium less ductile, followed by aluminum.
	Metals vary in density. Density is weight per unit of material. Steel weighs 7.8 grams/cm3 (grams per cubic centimeter), titanium 4.5
47

grams/cm3, aluminum 2.75 grams/cm3. Contrast these numbers with carbon fiber composite at 1.45 grams/cm3.
	Metals are subject to fatigue. With enough cycles of use, at high enough loads, metals will eventually develop cracks that lead to failure.
It is very important that you read The basics of metal fatigue below.
	Let’s say you hit a curb, ditch, rock, car, another cyclist or other object. At any speed above a fast walk, your body will continue to move
forward, momentum carrying you over the front of the bike. You cannot and will not stay on the bike, and what happens to the frame,
fork and other components is irrelevant to what happens to your body.
What should you expect from your metal frame? It depends on many complex factors, which is why we tell you that crashworthinesscannot be a design criteria. With that important note, we can tell you that if the impact is hard enough the fork or frame may be bent
or buckled. On a steel bike, the steel fork may be severely bent and the frame undamaged. Aluminum is less ductile than steel, but you
can expect the fork and frame to be bent or buckled. Hit harder and the top tube may be broken in tension and the down tube buckled.
Hit harder and the top tube may be broken, the down tube buckled and broken, leaving the head tube and fork separated from themain triangle.
When a metal bike crashes, you will usually see some evidence of this ductility in bent, buckled or folded metal.
	It is now common for the main frame to be made of metal and the fork of carbon fiber. See Section B, Understanding composites below.
The relative ductility of metals and the lack of ductility of carbon fiber means that in a crash scenario you can expect some bending or
bucking in the metal but none in the carbon. Below some load the carbon fork may be intact even though the frame is damaged. Abovesome load the carbon fork will be completely broken.
The basics of metal fatigue
Common sense tells us that nothing that is used lasts forever. The more you use something, and the harder you use it, and the worse
the conditions you use it in, the shorter its life.
Fatigue is the term used to describe accumulated damage to a part caused by repeated loading. To cause fatigue damage, the load
the part receives must be great enough. A crude, often-used example is bending a paper clip back and forth (repeated loading) until it
breaks. This simple definition will help you understand that fatigue has nothing to do with time or age. A bicycle in a garage does not
fatigue. Fatigue happens only through use.
	So what kind of “damage” are we talking about? On a microscopic level, a crack forms in a highly stressed area. As the load isrepeatedly applied, the crack grows. At some point the crack becomes visible to the naked eye. Eventually it becomes so large that thepart is too weak to carry the load that it could carry without the crack. At that point there can be a complete and immediate failure of
the part.
One can design a part that is so strong that fatigue life is nearly infinite. This requires a lot of material and a lot of weight. Any structurethat must be light and strong will have a finite fatigue life. Aircraft, race cars, motorcycles all have parts with finite fatigue lives. If
you wanted a bicycle with an infinite fatigue life, it would weigh far more than any bicycle sold today. So we all make a trade-off: thewonderful, lightweight performance we want requires that we inspect the structure.
What to look for:• ONCE A CRACKS STARTS IT CAN GROW AND GROW FAST. Think about
the crack as forming a pathway to failure. This means that any crack is
potentially dangerous and will only become more dangerous.

SIMPLE RULE 1 : If you find crack, replace the part.

• CORROSSION SPEEDS DAMAGE. Cracks grow more quickly when they
are in a corrosive environment. Think about the corrosive solution as
further weakening and extending the crack.

SIMPLE RULE 2 : Clean your bike, lubricate your bike,protect your bike from salt, remove any salt as soon
as you can.

• STAINS AND DISCOLORATION CAN OCCUR NEAR A CRACK. Suchstaining may be a warning sign that a crack exists.

SIMPLE RULE 3 : Inspect and investigate any staining tosee if it is associated with a crack.

• SIGNIFICANT SCRATCHES, GOUGES, DENTS OR SCORING CREATE
STARTING POINTS FOR CRACKS. Think about the cut surface as a focal
point for stress (in fact engineers call such areas “stress risers,” areas
where the stress is increased). Perhaps you have seen glass cut? Recall
how the glass was scored and then broke on the scored line.

SIMPLE RULE 4 : Do not scratch, gouge or score any
surface. If you do, pay frequent attention to this areaor replace the part.

• SOME CRACKS (particularly larger ones) MAY MAKE CREAKING NOISEAS YOU RIDE. Think about such a noise as a serious warning signal.
Note that a well-maintained bicycle will be very quiet and free of creaks
and squeaks.

SIMPLE RULE 5 : Investigate and find the source of any
noise. It may not a be a crack, but whatever is causing
the noise should be fixed promptly.

	In most cases a fatigue crack is not a defect. It is a sign that the part has been worn out, a sign the part has reached the end of its usefullife. When your car tires wear down to the point that the tread bars are contacting the road, those tires are not defective. Those tires areworn out and the tread bar says “time for replacement.” When a metal part shows a fatigue crack, it is worn out. The crack says “timefor replacement.”48

Fatigue Is Not A Perfectly Predictable Science
Fatigue is not a perfectly predictable science, but here are some general factors to help you and your dealer determine how often yourbicycle should be inspected. The more you fit the “shorten product life” profile, the more frequent your need to inspect. The more you
fit the “lengthen product life” profile, the less frequent your need to inspect.
Factors that shorten product life:• Hard, harsh riding style• “Hits”, crashes, jumps, other “shots” to the bike
• High mileage• Higher body weight• Stronger, more fit, more aggressive rider• Corrosive environment (wet, salt air, winter road salt, accumulated sweat)• Presence of abrasive mud, dirt, sand, soil in riding environment
Factors that lengthen product life:• Smooth, fluid riding style• No “hits”, crashes, jumps, other “shots” to the bike• Low mileage• Lower body weight• Less aggressive rider• Non-corrosive environment (dry, salt-free air)• Clean riding environment

WARNING:

Do not ride a bicycle or component with any crack , bulge or dent, even a small one. Riding a cracked frame, fork or component could leadto complete failure, with risk of serious injury or death.

B. Understanding composites
	All riders must understand a fundamental reality of composites. Composite materials constructed of carbon fibers are strong and light,
but when crashed or overloaded, carbon fibers do not bend, they break.
	What Are Composites?
	The term “composites” refers to the fact that a part or parts are made up of different components or materials. You’ve heard the term
“carbon fiber bike.” This really means “composite bike.”
Carbon fiber composites are typically a strong, light fiber in a matrix of plastic, molded to form a shape. Carbon composites are light
relative to metals. Steel weighs 7.8 grams/cm3 (grams per cubic centimeter), titanium 4.5 grams/cm3, aluminum 2.75 grams/cm3.
Contrast these numbers with carbon fiber composite at 1.45 grams/cm3.
	The composites with the best strength-to-weight ratios are made of carbon fiber in a matrix of epoxy plastic. The epoxy matrix bonds
the carbon fibers together, transfers load to other fibers, and provides a smooth outer surface. The carbon fibers are the “skeleton” thatcarries the load.
	Why Are Composites Used?
	Unlike metals, which have uniform properties in all directions (engineers call this isotropic), carbon fibers can be placed in specificorientations to optimize the structure for particular loads. The choice of where to place the carbon fibers gives engineers a powerfultool to create strong, light bicycles. Engineers may also orient fibers to suit other goals such as comfort and vibration damping.
Carbon fiber composites are very corrosion resistant, much more so than most metals.
	Think about carbon fiber or fiberglass boats; Carbon fiber materials have a very high strength-to-weight ratio.
	What Are The Limits Of Composites?
Well designed “composite” or carbon fiber bicycles and components have long fatigue lives, usually better than their metal equivalents.
While fatigue life is an advantage of carbon fiber, you must still regularly inspect your carbon fiber frame, fork, or components.
Carbon fiber composites are not ductile. Once a carbon structure is overloaded, it will not bend; it will break. At and near the break,there will be rough, sharp edges and maybe delamination of carbon fiber or carbon fiber fabric layers. There will be no bending,buckling, or stretching.
If You Hit Something Or Have A Crash, What Can You Expect From Your Carbon Fiber Bike?
	Let’s say you hit a curb, ditch, rock, car, other cyclist or other object. At any speed above a fast walk, your body will continue to move
forward, the momentum carrying you over the front of the bike. You cannot and will not stay on the bike and what happens to the frame,
fork and other components is irrelevant to what happens to your body.
What should you expect from your carbon frame? It depends on many complex factors. But we can tell you that if the impact is hardenough, the fork or frame may be completely broken. Note the significant difference in behavior between carbon and metal. See
Section 2. A, Understanding metals in this Appendix. Even if the carbon frame was twice as strong as a metal frame, once the carbon
frame is overloaded it will not bend, it will break completely.
Inspection of Composite Frame, Fork, and Components
Cracks:
Inspect for cracks, broken, or splintered areas. Any crack is serious. Do not ride any bicycle or component that has a crack of any size.
Delamination:
Delamination is serious damage. Composites are made from layers of fabric. Delamination means that the layers of fabric are no longer
bonded together. Do not ride any bicycle or component that has any delamination. These are some delamination clues:
1.	A cloudy or white area. This kind of area looks different from the ordinary undamaged areas. Undamaged areas will look
glassy, shiny, or “deep,” as if one was looking into a clear liquid. Delaminated areas will look opaque and cloudy.
2. Bulging or deformed shape. If delamination occurs, the surface shape may change. The surface may have a bump, a bulge,
soft spot, or not be smooth and fair.
49

3.	A difference in sound when tapping the surface. If you gently tap the surface of an undamaged composite you will hear aconsistent sound, usually a hard, sharp sound. If you then tap a delaminated area, you will hear a different sound, usually
duller, less sharp.
Unusual Noises:
Either a crack or delamination can cause creaking noises while riding. Think about such a noise as a serious warning signal. A wellmaintained bicycle will be very quiet and free of creaks and squeaks. Investigate and ﬁnd the source of any noise. It may not be a crack
or delamination, but whatever is causing the noise must be ﬁxed before riding.

WARNING:

Do not ride a bicycle or component with any delamination or crack . Riding a delaminated or cracked frame, fork or other component could

lead to complete failure, with risk of serious injury or death.

C. Understanding components
	It is often necessary to remove and disassemble components in order to properly and carefully inspect them. This is a job for aprofessional bicycle mechanic with the special tools, skills and experience to inspect and service today’s high-tech high-performancebicycles and their components.
Aftermarket “Super Light” components
	Think carefully about your rider proﬁle as outlined above. The more you ﬁt the “shorten product life” proﬁle, the more you must question
the use of super light components. The more you ﬁt the “lengthen product life” proﬁle, the more likely it is that lighter components may
be suitable for you. Discuss your needs and your proﬁle very honestly with your dealer.
	Take these choices seriously and understand that you are responsible for the changes.
	A useful slogan to discuss with your dealer if you contemplate changing components is “Strong, Light, Cheap –pick two.”	Original Equipment components
Bicycle and component manufacturers test the fatigue life of the components that are original equipment on your bike. This meansthat they have met test criteria and have reasonable fatigue life. It does not mean that the original components will last forever.
They won’t.

Appendix C
Coaster Brakes

1. How the coaster brake works
	The coaster brake is a sealed mechanism which is a part of the bicycle’s
rear wheel hub. The brake is activated by reversing the rotation of thepedal cranks (see fig. 19). Start with the pedal cranks in a nearly horizontal
position, with the front pedal in about the 4 o’clock position, and apply
downward foot pressure on the pedal that is to the rear. About 1/8 turnrotation will activate the brake. The more downward pressure you apply, themore braking force, up to the point where the rear wheel stops rotating andbegins to skid.

WARNING:

Before riding , make sure that the brake is working properly. If it is

WARNING:

If your bike has only a coaster brake , ride conservatively. A single

not working properly, have the bicycle checked by your dealer before you ride it.

rear brake does not have the stopping power of front-and - rear brake systems .

2.

Fig.19Adjusting your coaster brake
Coaster brake service and adjustment requires special tools and special knowledge. Do not attempt to disassemble or service your coasterbrake. Take the bicycle to your dealer for coaster brake service.

Appendix D

Fastener Torque Specifications
Correct tightening torque of threaded fasteners is very important to your safety. Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque. Bolts that are tootight can stretch and deform. Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue. Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of the bolt.
Always use a correctly calibrated torque wrench to tighten critical fasteners on your bike. Carefully follow the torque wrench manufacturer’s
instructions on the correct way to set and use the torque wrench for accurate results.
The differences in design, material, manufacturing, brand and technological advances make it impractical to provide useful and relevant torquevalues for the components, hardware and fasteners found on all models of bicycles covered by this manual. To ensure that the torque values
recommended are appropriate to the components used on your bicycle please contact your local dealer. There are several sources for thisinformation available through your dealer including but not limited to component manufacturers’ websites, tool suppliers, and industry reference
guides for mechanics.
50

Appendix E

Teaching Your Child The Rules
In addition to The Basics (page 7), Riding Safely (page 8), Off Road Safety (page 8), Wet Weather Riding (page 9), Night Riding (page 9), Extreme,
Downhill, Stunt, or Competition Riding (page 10), and Bicycling in Traffic (Appendix F - page 41), kids need to be taught — and to have frequently
reinforced — the following rules and lessons which adults are already expected to know. We urge you to take the time to familiarize yourself withthese rules and to teach them to your child before you let your child ride unsupervised.
1.	Rules• No playing in the road or in the street.
• No riding on busy streets.
• No riding at dawn, dusk or at night.
• Stop for all STOP signs.
• Ride on the right of traffic.
2. Lessons
	The lessons that follow relate to some of the most common real situations that children encounter when riding their bikes. Go over thesesituations with your child and make sure the lesson objective is accomplished.
a. Driveway Rideout
When a youngster rides out of the driveway and is struck by a car, that is called a rideout accident.
What can you do? First, realize the danger of your own driveway. If there are obstructions to the view of passing motorists (like bushes
or trees), trim them back. You might park your car in front of the driveway, if local ordinance permits. This way, your child can’t use thedriveway as a launching pad.
But the most important thing you can do is teach your child about driveway safety. Take your child outside to the driveway and have him/
her practice the following steps:
1)	Stop before entering the street.
2)	Look left, right and left again for traffic.
3)	If there’s no traffic, proceed into the roadway.
b.	Running the Stop Sign
Car/bike crashes can happen when a cyclist runs a stop sign. Most cyclists who get hit riding through stop signs know that they were
supposed to stop. They just thought it would be OK this time; or they may have been distracted. The thing to impress upon your child isthat while he/she may not get hit every time, running stop signs will eventually result in an accident.
What can you do? Take your child to a stop sign near home. Explain what it means by emphasizing the following points:
1)	Stop at all stop signs, regardless of what is happening.
2)	Look in all directions for traffic.
3) Watch for oncoming cars making left turns.
4) Watch for cars behind you making right turns.
5) Wait for any cross traffic to clear.
6)	Proceed when safe.
In order to make this lesson stick, you may have to change your own driving habits. If you creep through intersections controlled by stop
signs, you are showing your child that you don’t really believe what you preach. For your child’s sake, stop at stop signs.
c. Turning Without Warning	Another major accident type involves cyclists who make unexpected left turns. They neither look behind for traffic, nor do they signal. The
key factor here is neglecting to look to the rear. If the cyclist had looked, he/she would have seen the danger coming up from behind.
What can you do? Of course, you ought to teach your child not to ride across busy streets - at least until the child has had some advanced
training and is old enough to understand traffic. But in the meantime, for residential street riding, you can teach your child to always lookand signal before turning left. A big part of this lesson is teaching the child how to look to the rear without swerving.
	Take your child to a playground or a safe area away from traffic or obstructions to practice riding along a straight line while looking behind.
Stand alongside and hold up a different number of fingers on your hand after the child rides by. Call his/her name. After 15 minutes ofpractice, a ten year old should be able to look behind his/herself and identify how many fingers you are holding up — without swerving.
d.	Riding at Dawn, at Dusk or at Night (See also Section 4.F, page 19)
	Most car/bicycle accidents happen at night where an overtaking car hits a bike. (An overtaking car is one that comes up from behind andpasses the cyclist on the left.) These overtaking accidents can be very serious.
What can you do? First, you should keep your youngster from riding at dawn, dusk or at night. It requires special skills and equipment.
Few children have either. Secondly, make sure your child understands that if he/she gets caught out at dusk or after dark on a bike, thething to do is to call you for a ride home. One suggestion is to tape a phone number and money to the bike so that, in an emergency, thechild will be able to call home.
e. Following the Leader
	There is increased risk of car/bike collision if children are following each other, because if the first one does something dangerous, thosefollowing may do it too.
What can you do? Teach your child to always assess the traffic situation for him/herself. When a group is riding around, each cyclist
should stop for stop signs; each cyclist should look to the rear before making left turns; and so on. One way to get the message across isto play a game with the child similar to ‘Simon Says’. In this game, however, the emphasis should not be on doing what ‘Simon Says’, butrather have the child make a decision based on the situation. The child should learn to ignore what ‘Simon Says’. Children need to learn
to think for themselves to ride safely.
SUMMARY
Teach your child early — the earlier the better. Learning skills such as looking and avoiding hazards takes time. Be prepared to repeat lessons
until your child understands what you’re trying to get across. Be patient. Your efforts will be rewarded, knowing that your child is aware of safe
riding skills.
51

Appendix F

Bicycling In Traffic

Obey traffic signs & signals –Bicycles must drive like othervehicles if they are to be taken
seriously by motorists.

Never ride against traffic – Motorists
aren’t looking for bicyclists riding on
the wrong side of the road.

Use hand signals – Hand signals,
using your left arm, tells motorists
what you intend to do. Signal as amatter of law, courtesy, and safety.

Ride in a straight line – Wheneverpossible, ride in a straight line, tothe right of traffic, but about a door’s
width away from parked cars.

Don’t weave between parked
cars – Don’t ride out to the curb
between parked cars unless they
are far apart. Motorists may not
see you when you try to moveback into traffic.

Ride in middle of lane in slow
traffic – Get in the middle of thelane at busy intersections andwhenever you are moving at thesame speed as traffic.

Follow lane markings – Don’tturn left from right lane. Don’t
go straight in a lane marked as
Right Turn Only.

Choose best way to turn left – There
are two ways to make a left turn.
#1 Like an auto – Signal, move into
the left lane and turn left. #2 Like apedestrian – Ride straight to the far
side crosswalk. Dismount and walkyour bike across.

Don’t pass on the right – Motorists
may not look for, or see a bicycle
passing on the right.

Go slow on sidewalks – Pedestrians havethe right of way. By law, you must give pedestrians audible warning when you pass.
Don’t cross driveways or intersections
without slowing to a walkers’ pace andlooking very carefully for traffic (especiallytraffic turning right on a green light).

Watch for cars pulling out – Makeeye contact with driver. Assume
they don’t see you until you are
sure they do.

Scan the road behind – Learn tolook back over your shoulder without
losing your balance or swerving left.
Some riders use rear view mirrors.

Avoid road hazards – Watch out forparallel slat sewer grates, slipperymanhole covers, oily pavement, gravel
and ice. Cross railroad tracks carefully
at right angles. To get better control
as you move across bumps and otherhazards, stand up on your pedals.

Keep both hands ready to brace –You may not stop in time if you
brake one-handed. Allow extra
distance for stopping in the rain,
since brakes are less efficientwhen wet.

Watch for chasing dogs – Ignore
them or try a firm “NO!” If the dog
doesn’t stop, dismount with yourbike between you and the dog.
Dogs are attracted to spinning
wheels and feet.

52Appendix G

Training Wheel & Accessory Installation
1. Training Wheel

16˝ Bikes
12˝ Bikes						Assemble the training wheels as shown in the photos above, then tighten the bolts to the proper torque.
2. Pads

Stem pads				Handlebar pads

Handlebar & stem pads (front view)

Top tube pads
Please install pads as shown in the photos above, then cinch pad cover using hook & loop fasteners.
3. Streamers

Insert plug end of streamers into grip as shown in the photo above.
PLEASE NOTE: NOT ALL MODELS COME WITH THESE PARTS/ACCESSORIES.

53

THIS PAGE LEFT BLANK, EXCEPT FOR THESE WORDS. AND THE PAGE NUMBER.

54

Diamondback Bicycle Limited Warranty
Diamondback Bicycles warrants this new bicycle frame against defects in material and workmanship, subject to thefollowing limitations, terms, and conditions:
It is the owner’s responsibility to thoroughly read and understand the owner’s manual and regularly examine the product to determine
the need for professional, authorized service or replacement. Please consult a Diamondback Bicycles Authorized Dealer with anyquestions on use and maintenance. Regardless of the length of the warranty, Diamondback Bicycles does not infer that the bicycle
will last forever or cannot be broken. All Diamondback framesets and bicycles have a finite, limited useful product life cycle. The
length of this useful life cycle will vary by environment, riding conditions, frame material and construction, riding style, maintenance,
and the amount as well as type of use the bicycle or frame is subjected to. A worn out bicycle does not indicate it is warrantable,
rather that the bicycle has outlived (exceeded) its useful product cycle.

Item

Warranty Term Length

Steel bicycle frames with wheel size less than 20˝Steel bicycle frames with 20˝, 24˝, 26˝, or 700c wheels
Alloy bicycle frames with 20˝, 24˝, 26˝, or 700c wheels
Full Carbon Fiber or Carbon fiber/alloy bicycle frames with 20˝, 24˝, 26˝,or 700c wheels

Lifetime, for as long as the original retail purchaser owns the bicycle*
Lifetime, for as long as the original retail purchaser owns the bicycle*
Lifetime, for as long as the original retail purchaser owns the bicycle*

Full Suspension bicycle frames
Forks
Components, Non-branded
Components, Branded
Finish and decals
Suspension parts including but not limited to bushings, pivot
bearings, link plates, bolts, fasteners,
chain stays, seat stays, and shock units
Aftermarket Framesets
Labor, frame replacement
Labor, parts replacement / Including Swingarm

Lifetime, for as long as the original retail purchaser owns the bicycle*
Five years from the date of original retail purchase to the original purchaser ofthe bicycle*
One year from the date of original retail purchase,unless otherwise specified
One year from the date of original retail purchase
Covered under the component manufacturer’s warranty,
consult your dealer for details.
One year from the date of original retail purchase
One year from the date of original retail purchase under the condition that thebicycle is regularly maintained as well as operated undernormal riding conditions
One year from the date of original retail purchase
One year from the date of original retail purchaseThirty days from the date of original retail purchase1. This warranty only applies to the original retail purchaser and is not transferable.
2. Specific model exceptions to this warranty are noted with the bicycle documentation.
3. Diamondback Bicycles sole obligation during the acceptable duration of this warranty is, at Diamondback Bicycles option, torepair or replace the product with a current item that is equivalent in construction, design, or value.
4. Diamondback Bicycles liability under this limited warranty shall never exceed the amount of the original purchase.
To obtain service under this warranty, you must:
1. Return your fully assembled Diamondback Bicycles bicycle to a Diamondback Bicycles Authorized Dealer within the UnitedStates of America. A bicycle that has had the components removed cannot be evaluated or warranted.
*2. Provide proof of purchase, including but not limited to the retail bill of sale, your credit or debit card receipt, or othersatisfactory proof of the date of purchase.
3. The proof of purchase must indicate the bicycle was sold by an authorized Diamondback dealer within the United States.
Bicycles purchased from non-authorized dealers, whether online or at a store level, are excluded from this warranty policy.
This warranty does not apply to damage or failure due to:
1. Accidents, alteration, abuse, neglect.
2. Material fatigue, normal wear and tear.
3. Improper assembly, maintenance, or installation of parts or accessories not originally intended to be compatible with thebicycle as sold, including but not limited to power assist accessories, forks, brakes, or tires different from original specification.
4. Improper assembly by non authorized dealers inclusive of bicycles sold in a carton to the end user.
This warranty also excludes:
1. Commercial use (such as rental or security fleets), racing or competition, stunting, jumping, trick riding, ramp riding, aggressive
riding, riding with excessive loads, lack of technical skill, competence, or experience of the user.
2. Bicycle frames, which have been repaired (e.g. welded or bonded), repainted, or had the original decals removed.
3. Frames, forks, wheels, axles, handlebars, and stems, which are bent from just riding along, can be a sign of misuse or abuse
and are not covered under this warranty.
4. Personal transportation costs or product freight costs to or from a Diamondback Bicycles Authorized Dealer.
5. Any additional costs associated with the incompatibility of existing parts and the replacement frame or fork. These costs are
the responsibility of the consumer.
Warranty replacement frames must be fully assembled by a Diamondback Bicycles Authorized Dealer to maintain the warranty
coverage. The warranty for the replacement frame shall be the warranty offered for the equivalent bicycle’s frame of that modelyear. If not assembled by the dealer, replacement frames are considered aftermarket frames. Aftermarket frames are only
warranted for one year from the date of purchase for the original purchaser. This one-year warranty excludes any issues that canbe traced to assembly or component incompatibility.
This warranty is expressly in lieu of all other warranties, and any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particularpurpose created hereby, are limited to the same duration as the express warranty herein. Diamondback Bicycles shall not beliable for any incidental or consequential damages. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitations of implied warranties,
incidental or consequential, so the above limitations and exclusions may not apply to you. Retailers and wholesale outlets for
Diamondback Bicycles products are not authorized to modify this warranty in any way. This warranty gives the original ownerspecific legal rights. Other additional rights may vary from state to state.
All Diamondback bicycles meet or exceed CPSC standards. Complete equipment is included with each Diamondback bicycle but
not necessarily shown in photographs, e.g. reflectors. All Diamondback bicycles are covered under warranty. See your authorizedDiamondback dealer for complete details. Diamondback specifications are subject to change without prior notice. Diamondback
is a registered trademark of Raleigh Cycle Limited. Diamondback bicycles are distributed by Raleigh America, Inc.

Diamondback Bicycles
6004 S. 190th Street, Suite 101
Kent, WA 98032 USA
Phone: 253-395-1100
55

Warranty revised: 08 January 2013

Please register your bike online atwww.diamondback.com
or
www.diamondbackbmx.com
If you do not have access to a computer, please complete the form below and return within the next 10 days.

your bike’s* What ismodelyear?

Date of
Purchase:
Month

Day

* Notates required fields.

What is yourbike’s color?

Year

What model bike do you have?

*

What is your bike’s serial number?

(please be specific: example, if you have an Overdrive Sport, be sure to write Overdrive Sport, not just Overdrive)*(see diagram on inside front cover for location)

Price paid

(excluding sales tax):

.

$

00

Purchased from (dealer name)?
Dealer’s
state:YourFirst Name:Your
Last Name:

MiddleInitital:**

Date of birth:
Month

Day

Year

Gender:Male

FemalePrimary phone:-

MarriedSingleMarital status:

-

Email
Address:
StreetAddress:

Street & Apt No.

*
*

City

State

Zip Code*Country*
Reasons you purchased a Diamondback:Received as a gift
Color/Appearance
Quality/Durability

Other brands considered ?

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Frame/Design/Materials
Comfort/Fit

Prior experience with brandComponent selection
Weight of bicycle

Diamondback’s Reputation

Value/Price

Family/Friend Recommendation
Sales person’s recommendation

Other©2013 diamondback bicycles, inc. kent, WA.
www.diamondback.com
www.diamondbackbmx.com

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