THE SOMMELIER JOURNALTHE

JUNE/JULY • 2019$10.00 US/$12.00 CANADASOMM JOURNAL
The Restoration ofAll-Star Cask:

Michael Eddy serves as theDirector of Winemaking forLouis M. Martini Winery.

LOUIS M.
MARTINIWINERY

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PHOTO: DAWN HEUMANN PHOTOGRAPHY

NAPA’S LATEST MECCAFOR ENOPHILES SETS ANEW GOLD STANDARD

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{ saké }There Can Only Be

SakéOneAMERICA’S FIRST
CRAFT SAKÉBREWERY SEEKSTO BOOST THE
CATEGORY’S
POPULARITY
STATESIDE

SakéOne specializes
in ginjo-grade saké,utilizing premium rice
milled to less than 60%of its original size.

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L

SakeOné Toji (Master Brewer) Takumi Kuwabara (second from left) stands proudly with hiscrew: Juan Hernandez, Takumi Kuwabara, Jared De Pry, Jordan Harris, and Koji Oda.

story by Eduardo Dingler / photos by John Val
ocated on the outskirts of Portland, Oregon, in the town of Forest Grove, America’s
first craft saké brewery has been quietly innovating for more than two decades: Established as an importer in 1992, SakéOne built its kura (saké brewery) in 1997. The
brewery’s most recent release is a refreshingly crisp, fruity, floral, and crowdpleasing new
brand called Yomi; retailing for about $5 per 250-mL can, it aims to capture the attention of new saké drinkers across the U.S. and features a captivating label designed by aJapanese graphic designer based in Portland.
In addition to Yomi, SakéOne has launched the medium-bodied, rounder, melonand apple-driven Junmai Ginjo expression from its flagship Momokawa product line ina can, paving the way for the pending debut of yet another new product: the long-anticipated Junmai Daiginjo, which will launch under the new Naginata brand and retailfor $50. Naginata will be made with the sought-after Yamadanishiki rice strain andhave a seimaibuai of 50% (seimaibuai refers to the amount of rice that remains after
polishing; in this case, the rice is milled down to 50% of its original size). The limitededition release is bottled genshu (undiluted) to preserve flavor and texture. “Thepackaging promises an American craft feel and aims to deliver the best saké produced
outside of Japan,” says SakéOne Director of Sales and Marketing Paul Englert. “Thissymbolizes our coming of age.”
SakéOne President Steve Vuylsteke adds, “Naginata is the culmination of our 20-plus
years of brewing experience combined with the centuries of experience of our Japanese brewing partners, who continue to lend their expertise and share in our success.”{ SOMMjournal.com } 43

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{ real somm stories }Above, Assistant Saké Maker Juan Hernandez prepares rice forsteaming. Below at right, Master Brewer Takumi Kuwabara checks
the aroma of a fresh batch of koji rice.

Hiroshima native Takumi Kuwabara, a 27-year veteran of the industry, took the reinsat SakéOne as Toji (Master Brewer) two years ago, and he’s responsible for many of thechanges unfolding at the brewery. Among them is the arrival of a state-of-the-art saképress, which is set to replace the 21-year-old version that’s helped produce SakéOne’sproducts since day one. Additional investments in technology and equipment will continue to elevate quality and expand the brewery’s capabilities.

An Expansive Portfolio
SakéOne’s varied lineup spans from the wide range of SKUs available from the company’s flagship Momokawa line to the diverse G series and the playful Moonstonelabel. According to Englert, the Momokawa Diamond Junmai Ginjo is “by far the mostpopular”; a blend of saké brewed from two special proprietary yeasts, it has an ABVof 14.8%, a nose reminiscent of wildflowers, and a juicy core complemented by a crisp
minerality and a touch of green melon.
Momokawa offers a few organic expressions, including the jasmine-driven Junmai
Ginjo, which features hints of cucumber and guava that precede a well-rounded finish.
The rich and well-rounded Nigori, meanwhile, exudes notes of mint and green melon.
The aforementioned G series, which focuses on genshu-style saké, comprises twoexpressions. At 18% ABV, the G Joy ($20) delivers aromas of peach blossom and freshmandarin peel alongside a muscular viscosity, an exotic layer of tamarind, and a creamyfinish. Marked by notes of nectarine and winter spice, the G Fifty ($25) also features
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“Naginata is theculmination of our20-plus years ofbrewing experience
combined with thecenturies of experienceof our Japanese
brewing partners, who
continue to lend theirexpertise and share in
our success.”—SakéOnePresident
Steve Vuylsteke

SakéOne’s G Joy, Momokawa Diamond Junmai Ginjo, and Moonstone expressions.
Those who visit SakéOne’s tasting room in Forest Grove, OR, can enjoy over 30
expressions of Oregon craft and Japanese imported saké. Tours of the kura (brewery)
are also available by appointment.

a generous layer of watermelon-flavored
Jolly Ranchers enhanced by aromas of ripe
kiwi and a bold texture.
Described by Englert as “the gatewayfor new saké drinkers,” the Moonstoneline focuses on fruit-forward, easy-drinking
styles. The most popular is the Asian Pear($13); with an ABV of 12%, its deliciously
crisp flavor profile offers authentic notesof lychee, white flowers, and pear. Anotherexpression, the decadent and satisfying
Coconut-Lemongrass Nigori ($13; 13.5%ABV) is generous and creamy with a palateakin to a tropical paradise, making it an
ideal option for saké novices.

Importing Quality
SakéOne maintains a strong presence in
the import segment of the industry: It currently represents six Japanese saké brands
from five breweries as well as a Japaneseshochu label, Tombo.
The import brands include Hakutsuru, abrewery established in 1743 in the Nada
district of Kobe. It’s positioned itself as oneof the leading saké producers in Japan,
gaining international acclaim for its range ofhigh-quality value offerings. Another is Kasumi Tsuru, a producer known for its richinterpretations of two traditional methodsof saké production, yamahai and kimoto.
Located in the Hyogo prefecture, thebrewery was founded in 1725. Murai Family Sake, established in 1889 in the northern
Aomori Prefecture, was a founding partnerof SakéOne, and Yoshinogawa—foundedin 1548, it’s the oldest sake brewery in thefamed Niigata Prefecture—further adds
to the impressive history of the SakéOne
portfolio.
The Kibō canned saké, finally, delivers alayered and expressive style dominatedby almond skin and shiitake mushroom.
Its name, meaning “hope,” was inspiredby the brewery’s rebirth after the 2011
tsunami destroyed its original facility, forcing it to relocate.
All SakéOne products are kosher, andthe brewery—unlike its Japanese counterparts—operates on a demand-driven
production basis, meaning it brews yearround as opposed to seasonally. For more
information on SakéOne, visit sakeone.
com or email info@sakeone.com.
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