Extracted from SALT Magazine issue 15
HERITAGE HEROES

For the Loveof Mooncakes

HERITAGE HEROES

Mooncakes are a familiar fixture every fall season,
lending their sweetness to the time-honoured traditionsof Mid-Autumn Festival. As we count down the days to
1 October, we pick the minds of three local mooncake
makers who have, through their artisanal touch, enlivened
the legacy and timeless innovation of these delightful
baked and snowskin treats.

Let’s set the scene: theharvest moon is at its
brightest and roundest,
candle-lit paper lanterns
in varying shapes and sizes
adorn every household
and are paraded on display
by gambolling children,
while adults gather aroundthe table to partake inplayful riddle-solving oversweet golden pastries,
ripe pomeloes androasted teas.

Veteran Pastry
master Bruce Lei,
who has been
making mooncakesfor over 40 years.

Something Old
Today, the occasion has taken on deeper cultural significance, drawing together families
and communities in heartwarming reunion. “May we live long and share the beauty ofthe moon together, even if we are thousands of miles apart,” goes a famous poem bySong dynasty poet Su Shi.
Sadly, the practice of moon-viewing and lantern-carrying has faded with time and is
no longer a common sight around Singapore. “The Mid-Autumn festive mood is not
as intense here,” muses Pastry Master Bruce Lei, who is Director Innovator (R&D) atBake Mission, an established confectionery manufacturer that specialises in high-quality
baked products and supplies to a diverse clientele base including five-star hotels andsupermarkets.
“When I was growing up in Hong Kong, we used to hold full moon appreciation parties
on Mid-Autumn night while enjoying mooncakes with family members, close friends
and neighbours, surrounded by the laughter of young children running around carrying
lanterns with lighted candles,” Pastry Master Lei recalls. “Perhaps it’s because MidAutumn is not a public holiday here. Our weather is also hot and humid, so it does notreally feel like autumn as in temperate countries.”
It’s the night of theMid-Autumn Festival,
which traditionallysignifies thanksgiving
for a fruitful summer
harvest.

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TEXT GERMAINE CHEAHPHOTOS SABRINA CHIA, RAFFLES HOTEL

Even so, mooncakes remain a festive staple locally, with Chinese households often
procuring a box or more for personal consumption or gifting. These can take the form oftraditional baked pastries filled with white lotus paste, red bean paste or multi-grains; orthe non-baked snowskin variants developed more recently in the 1960s, which come in a
myriad of innovative flavours encased within a translucent mochi-like glutinous rice skin.

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Extracted from SALT Magazine issue 15
HERITAGE HEROESHERITAGE HEROES“Chinese people have a tradition of sending
gifts to business partners and loved ones asa way of expressing gratitude and well wishes
during this joyous season,” explains Pastry
Master Lei. “Mooncakes are especially favoured
because they are traditionally round in shape,
which resonates with the meaning of the fullmoon, denoting wholesomeness, togetherness
and perfection in all aspects of one’s life, fromfamily to career to social status.”
Egg yolks areprocessed andportioned into
equal sizes
before use.

Pastry Master Lei would know, given that hehas seen, eaten and made his way throughplenty of mooncakes over his four-decade-longcareer spanning Hong Kong, Taiwan, Chinaand Singapore. At Bake Mission, he oversees
product innovation, fusing his expertise in bothWestern and Asian pastry techniques to craft
unique creations for the local audience. Of all
the flavours he’s created over the years, he says
traditional ones remain the most popular: theBaked Skin White Lotus mooncake (in bothplain and double yolk variations) as well as theBaked Skin Traditional Mixed Nut with Ham aretheir perennial best-sellers.

Christine Ng,Le Cordon
Bleu-trained chefand owner of Simple
Indulgence Patisserie.

Freshly-baked
mooncakes beingtransported forcooling before
being packaged.

Something New

Crafting new flavours is shaped by what is trending during
the time of recipe development and what is available in themarket. But fundamentally, the mooncake-making process
remains the same: it starts with the boiling of golden syrup(to be used in the pastry dough) and the preparation of thedesired fillings, such as white lotus paste and salted duck egg
yolks. These are all weighed into individual portions while thedough is being mixed.

Traditional baked mooncakes
are air-brushed with egg wash
to produce their distinctive
golden-brown hue.

Once the dough is sufficiently tensile and aerated, it isencrusted around the fillings and shaped loosely by hand
into 180-gram balls, before being stamped and moulded into
the quintessential round shape with decorative motifs. The
resulting pastries are assembled neatly on baking trays, readyfor the oven.
To produce their distinctive golden-brown crust, mooncakes
are first lightly baked for around 12 minutes, air-brushed withan even coating of egg wash, and then sent back for a second
round of baking, making for a total of around 25 minutes in
the oven.

Though they have a shorter history than their baked counterparts, snowskin mooncakes
enjoy the same cult popularity, thanks to their versatility in taking on a wider range offlavours, from the mainstream (chocolate, ice cream, fruit and alcohol infusions) to themind-blowingly unexpected (caviar, roast duck and even… coriander?).
Because they do not undergo heat processing, snowskin mooncakes are often kept
refrigerated in order to preserve their quality and freshness. But according to veteran
mooncake makers like Pastry Master Lei, this wasn’t the case in the past: “When I wasworking in Hong Kong and Taiwan during my early days, snowskin mooncakes didn’t need tobe refrigerated. They were called ‘snowskin’ simply because the skin was white, like snow!”
Owner and chief pâtissier of Simple Indulgence Patisserie Christine Ng agrees, adding,“Our family snowskin mooncake recipe, which was passed down by my uncle, calls for themooncakes to be freshly made and sold on the spot. They required no refrigeration andwere simply packed in paper boxes so that the mooncakes could ‘breathe’.”
At Simple Indulgence Patisserie, mini snowskin mooncakes are entirely handcrafted fromscratch under the watchful eye of Christine, who personally handles and oversees every
step of the elaborate process. Her attention to detail is matched only by her unwavering
dedication to using only real and natural ingredients in her pastries. As she explains, “Thefood industry, especially for desserts, is moving into mass production, where additives andDuring the peak of production season, Bake Mission canproduce up to 20,000 pieces daily, relying on a combinationof machinery and manpower working up to 16 hours a day.

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Extracted from SALT Magazine issue 15HERITAGE HEROES

stabilisers are added to prolong thelifespan of the products. I could not
find cakes or pastries that did not use
colourings, flavourings or additives
like baking powder or soda.”

HERITAGE HEROES

The delectablesnowskinselection byRaffles Hotel.

Seeing the gap in the market, theformer banker set up Simple
Indulgence Patisserie in 2016 withthe aim of offering “real food, realflavours”, free of preservatives andartificial ingredients.

Something Borrowed
Being Le Cordon Bleu-trained, Christine already had anarsenal of indulgent sweet treats to fall back on. But whenan opportunity came along for her to learn a secret family
mooncake recipe, she didn’t hesitate. “My uncle was probably
one of the first mooncake makers in Singapore,” she recalls.
“He used to make and sell snowskin mooncakes in Chinatownback in the 1970s.”
With no succession plan in sight, the savvy entrepreneur
decided to take matters into her own hands. Under thementorship of her uncle, she honed her skills in crafting
delicate snowskin mooncakes with every intention ofpreserving the original family recipe, albeit with a few twists.
“Back in the day, my uncle’s recipe was already free ofadditives, but included artificial colouring. To keep in line with
our real food philosophy, my mooncakes utilise extracts from
fresh ingredients like pandan leaves and butterfly pea flowers.”

Piping coconut white
chocolate ganache into
truffle shells for the
heritage Butterfly Pea
Gula Melaka Coconut
Truffle mooncake.

While she declines to divulge the full recipe, Christine sharesthat there are four critical steps that go into making her
artisanal mooncakes: the piping of the ganache into truffle
shells; the careful enveloping of the paste around the truffleballs; the preparation of the snowskin dough; and finally, theassembly process. As her mooncakes are dainty in size, eachcomponent has to be weighed to precise measurements.
This is especially so for the traditional Pandan Salted Egg
Yolk mooncake, so that the egg yolk, lotus paste and pandan
dough meld together in harmonious balance. “It’s an extremely
labour-intensive process, but highly satisfying when it comesout perfect,” remarks Christine.
“The flavours for our mooncakes are kept close to Singapore’s
heritage, and developed around ingredients I love, such as
Japanese yuzu, passion fruit, pandan and gula melaka.” Sheacknowledges that even though consumers these days are
well-travelled and exposed to different cultures, keeping
flavours “classic” is still paramount in her books. And hercreations are testament to this: “Our 100% Japanese Yuzu
White Truffle mooncake is paired simply with a low-sugar
white lotus paste, rather than the regular caramelised lotus,
to allow the delicate aroma of the prized yuzu fruit to capture
the senses as you bite into it. Similarly, the Butterfly Pea Gula
Melaka Coconut Truffle mooncake encompasses flavours
inspired by traditional kueh kueh, and is my way of paying
tribute to our rich Peranakan heritage.”

Shaping the butterfly
pea extract-infused
dough around thegula melaka low-sugar
lotus paste.

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Something Cool
In a market awash with new innovative trends every year, mooncake makers are
getting increasingly imaginative in their quest for the next hit flavour. Besides
factory manufacturers like Bake Mission and artisanal bakeries like Simple
Indulgence Patisserie, big players like hotels, too, are upping the ante with novel
creations set to wow the crowd.
One such example is Raffles Hotel, which has been winning hearts since the 1990s
with their iconic Champagne Truffle snowskin mooncakes. The decadent treat
features velvety white lotus paste swathed around delicate white chocolate shells
piped to the brim with champagne-infused cream, and is best enjoyed with a glassof Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Réserve.
Despite the popularity of their perennial favourites, Executive Pastry Chef Tan
Chien Lin feels there is a need to constantly reinvent mooncake offerings so as
to stay at the forefront of the competition. “Every year, we develop interestingand unique flavours to excite the evolving palates of our discerning guests,” heshares. “Some past examples include our Peanut Butter Milk Chocolate Feuilletine
snowskin mooncake, as well as the Strawberry Yogurt and Crunchy White
Chocolate Pearl snowskin mooncake.”51

Extracted from SALT Magazine issue 15
HERITAGE HEROES

The creative process is often moulded by consumer preferences,
Chef Tan explains. “Back in 2018, we observed an increased interestin superfoods, which led to the creation of an Acai Berry and Chia
Seeds snowskin mooncake. Lately, it seems like our consumers havea greater appreciation of fruity flavours in their mooncakes. So thisyear, we’ve come up with a new flavour – Apricot and Sourplum
snowskin mooncake – that is inspired by Plum-pickled Tomatoes
with Crunchy Turnip and Sweet Vinegar, one of the most popularsignature dishes by MasterChef Jereme Leung at his eponymous
restaurant 藝 yì by Jereme Leung.”

HERITAGE HEROES

Traditonal baked
mooncakes are alasting symbol ofChinese heritage.

Still, to consumers, taste is just part of the equation. Mooncakes
have to be visually-striking and packed aesthetically, especially ifthey are meant to be gifted. To this end, Raffles Hotel is proud of
their distinctive traditional tin boxes and woven carrier bags, whichmarry the hotel’s distinguished heritage with a touch of modernity.
These have been deliberately designed to be “functional, durable
and easily reusable”, showcasing the brand’s awareness in remaining
sustainable and eco-friendly in today’s climate.

Keeping Traditions Alive
Small as they may seem, mooncakes play a big role in conserving the culture and timelesstraditions of Mid-Autumn Festival. At their heart, these mini moon-shaped pastries are
not just food or art; they are tangible slices of memories, hopes and dreams shared bygenerations of Chinese around the world.

Earl Grey and Pearl
Snowskin Mooncake;
Apricot and Sourplum
Snowskin Mooncake“I’ve been making Asian pastries for over 40 years now, and I will always remember what mymasters taught me,” shares Pastry Master Lei. “There are many precious ancient techniquespassed down from them that most younger-generation chefs will never get to know, andso I make mooncakes with the aim of preserving and continuing our 2,000-year history oforiental pastry crafting.”
Similarly for Chef Tan, there is a “sense of duty to uphold high standards” and “privilege toplay a part in preserving the longstanding traditions of Mid-Autumn Festival.”
Christine echoes the same sentiment, adding that more so than ever, mooncakes bring joy
and a sense of solidarity through difficult times: “With the current pandemic, we sincerely
hope our mooncakes can help in carving out sweet memories for our customers again.”52

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Extracted from SALT Magazine issue 15
HERITAGE HEROESHERITAGE HEROES

Did you know?
Secured a box of Simple
Indulgence Patisserie’s‘Signature Collection’
mooncakes? Here’s therecommended sampling
sequence:

Traditional baked mooncakes are best consumed 14 to21 days after production. A mooncake fresh out of theoven is hard, dry and has no shine on its face. Leave
the mooncake to rest for at least a week, so the oil
gradually rises to the surface and renders a soft andshiny crust. The resting time also allows the fragranceof the salted egg yolk to fuse with that of the lotus
paste, thus creating an aroma that is pleasant andwell-balanced.

#1 100% Japanese Yuzu White Truffle#2 Passionfruit Hazelnut Feuilletine Truffle#3 Raspberry Black Sesame Truffle#4 Japanese Matcha Azuki Truffle#5 Butterfly Pea Gula Melaka Coconut Truffle#6 Pandan Salted Egg Yolk Lotus

Traditional baked mooncakes are typically 180 grams insize so as to withstand the high heat and long baking
time in the oven without drying out. On the contrary,snowskin mooncakes are better kept between 50 to
60 grams, as the soft, sometimes even liquid, fillings
can make it hard for the mooncake to retain its
upright structure.

Snowskin mooncakes

Advice from our experts on the best way to consume
mooncakes, so you get the most from each bite.

A good traditional baked mooncake should meet thefollowing criteria:a Colour of the mooncakes must be bronzed and shiny

Traditional baked mooncakes

a The crust must be thin and light, between 2 to 3mm

Cut them into quarters and savour
the layering of flavours and medley oftextures. Personally, I like my snowskin
mooncakes served cold (not frozen)
and paired with some chilled green tea,or perhaps tie guan yin. It’s a divine
experience.

A good snowskin mooncake should meetthe following criteria:a Simple layering of flavours that create depth– Chef-owner Christine Ng,Simple Indulgence Patisserie

beyond each individual ingredientin thickness

Use a clean, sharp knife to cut the mooncake
into six or eight slices, and appreciate themirror shine of the lotus paste. Best eaten insmall bites. Pair with small sips of tie guanyin, pu er, or long jing tea, which will balanceout the mooncakes nicely. Apart from tea,
traditional mooncakes can also be savoured
with autumn festive fruits such as longans,persimmons, pomeloes and even with roots likewater caltrop, baby yam, and shelled walnuts.

a The lotus paste must be fragrant and have a velvety

texture without being cloying

a The filling must look like a mirror image of each otherwhen the mooncake is sliced, achievable only when
the lotus seeds used are very fresh and when the oil,moisture and sugar in the paste are rightly balanced

a The salted egg yolk must be oily yet remain fluffy

when cut through– Pastry Master Bruce Lei, Bake Mission

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a Use of fresh ingredients and not artificial

additives, as flavourings and shortening
impart a distinct unpalatable aftertasteOur two new snowskin mooncakes, theApricot and Sourplum as well as theYuzu and Osmanthus Truffle, are bestexperienced with the Raffles Singapore
Sling Tea, which offers beautiful tropicalfruits and sweet-tart citrusy flavours
backed by a robust black tea base.

a Texture must be slightly chewy, not rubberya Filling should be smooth, not oily

– Executive Pastry Chef Tan Chien Lin,Raffles Hotel55