Beginners Guide to StereoPhoto Maker - Fujifilm W1 Versionby David Starkman
StereoPhoto Maker (SPM) is a FREE program for just about anything that you might want to do to a (3D)stereo image pair to make it suitable for comfortable 3-D viewing. (Google stereophoto maker to find it easily.)This program is especially useful to users of the new Fujifilm Finepix Real 3D W1 digital camera, as it willallow you to open the MPO image files created by the camera, and to view, and print, them in a wide variety of ways
(ways not explained by Fujifilm). Hereafter I’ll refer to the camera simply as the W1.
I first mentioned this program in my "Stereo World" article "Getting Started in Digital 3-D: One User’s Report" in"Stereo World" Vol. 30, No.6, 2004-2005.
This article is not meant to be a full tutorial, but rather a basic introduction to the SPM program.
Before you begin using SPM, the first step is to ORGANIZE your files! At a minimum you want to create five folders:
first a folder with a subject name (such as the name of a person, place or event), and within that folder at least foursubfolders. First, there should be a folder called MPOs (for the original images), and then AlignedPairs (for theextracted and adjusted side-by-side 3D pairs). Then EditedPairs (for images that are further adjusted for printing orother purposes), and (optional) Fuji3DMovies (for movie files, if you do these). These are only suggestions that I havefound useful. Modify these suggestions to suit your own needs and workflow. (My partner, Susan, adds an“AlignedTIFFpairs” folder so she can first save the pairs as TIFFs, which she then modifies with PhotoShop.) JPGs losequality when saved and copied multiple times. Don’t skip this step, as it is crucial in keeping yourself organized
for the next steps! NOTE: I have not recommended that you create a 2D JPG folder as I do not see the point in SPM
users saving both MPO files and a 2D JPG., even thought the default setting on the W1 is [MPO+JPG]. I recommendthat you change the default to just [MPO] and get 50% more images on your memory card.

The reason for this is that, before you upload the files from your Fujifilm W1 3D camera, it is a good idea to have someempty folders ready to put the files in to. Once you have created the folders you are ready to upload your digital images.
A file transfer cable comes with the camera. However, I suggest that the easiest way to transfer the images from digital
cameras is to use a card reader for your desktop and laptops. Most newer machines come with multi-format card
readers built-in, but, if not, an external USB card reader is inexpensive and worth it! You want one capable of workingwith SDHC cards.
You will notice that I have not used the software that came with the W1 camera. You don’t need it if you are going toupload the files with a card reader. It’s up to you if you want to try the Fujifilm software, but it is not necessary.
When you insert the card in your card reader a box will open with an “Open File Folders” option. If not, you will haveto manually use the Windows Explorer to find the “Removable Disk” drive. When you do, you will find a DCIM folder.
Double-click on the DCIM folder . Then you will see a “101_FUJI” folder. Double-click in that folder, and then
you will see a list of files with numbers such as DSFC0041 and so on. The file type will be a .MPO File. This is a
new multi image file format. In the case of the W1 camera, each MPO file actually has a parallel left and right JPEG
stereo pair contained within it. However, you need the StereoPhoto Maker software to “open” the file into a useable
format. If you have taken 3D movies, there will also be AVI files in the folder. I suggest you edit pictures in the camerabefore uploading, although it is perfectly possible to delete bad images later, if you prefer.
The next step is to copy all of the MPO files into the MPO folder that you have created for this group of images
already. If you have AVI files, copy them into the Fuji3DMovies folder.
I use the COPY function, rather than MOVE, so that the files are still on the card, in case some problem occurs in theuploading. Once you know you have the copies where you want them, you can delete them from your memory card.
Learn from my experience of losing data, and COPY, rather than MOVE, your files.
Now that you have your MPO image file uploaded, and in their MPOs folder, you are ready to begin using StereoPhotoMaker (SPM).
First, you will need to have SPM downloaded and on your PC (sorry, no MAC version is available, so MAC users
have to run the program in Windows emulators.). It is completely FREE, and available fromhttp://stereo.jpn.org/eng/stphmkr/. At the time of writing (Nov. 2009) the latest version of SPM is 4.13. Versions 3.0
and higher represent a quantum leap for this program, as they include an "Automatic Alignment" feature. Downloading
and installation instructions are all available at the SPM website. Note that versions earlier than 4.12 will not work withMPO files.
Assuming SPM is installed, the next step is to open the program. Once you have opened the program you will get amysterious black box, with the usual popdown commands at the top, and a strip of icons. (see below).

Next, click on the OPEN STEREO IMAGE icon (first from the left, a yellow folder with red on the inside).
Next to the “look in” box use the popdown arrow to find the folder where all of the MPO files are, until you see the listof MPO files that you want to work with. It should look like this:Note that, at the present time, there are no image thumbnails available for the MPO files. If you have the “SHOWPREVIEW” box checked in the lower left corner (as shown above), then clicking once and highlighting any MPO file
will show you a thumbnail in the open area at the bottom right of the Open Stereo Image Box.
You can work with a single image by clicking on it and opening it at this point.
The next step is the alignment and cropping of your image. Since the introduction of SPM 3.0 , there are now twochoices for alignment: Easy Adjustment (individual, user controlled alignment), and fully automatic alignment.
A good tutorial in all of these functions would require lots of pages and screenshots to show you how these functions
work. The purpose of this article is to let you know what the program can do, not to be a step-by-step instruction
manual. There is an extensive help menu if you download it at the same time you download the program.
For manual adjustment of the stereo pair, click on the ADJUST popdown from the tool bar, and then EASY
ADJUSTMENT (or just press the letter K as a shortcut). This will bring up an anaglyph (Red/Cyan) version of yourimage, with vertical and horizontal slider bars above, and below, the image. There are also a lot of other adjustment
options to the left of the anaglyph version of your images. I will not explain all of the adjustments at this time, but this issomething you can experiment with, and learn for yourself.

However, the most significant feature of this FREE program is the AUTOMATIC ALIGNMENT function. This canbe done for a single image pair, or for large groups of pairs.
For a single pair, such as the one described above, instead of clicking on EASY ADJUSTMENT click on AUTO
ALIGNMENT ( or ALT+A as a shortcut). Then just wait, and the image will AUTOMATICALLY be adjusted forvertical, horizontal, rotation, and size matching. Once this is done you can check it in the manual EASY ADJUST mode,and , if desired, make a horizontal adjustment only, to alter the window position (usually of the main subject).
For large groups of image pairs you can go to the File popdown and choose MULTI CONVERSION. You will thenget the multi conversion screen which lets you browse to the name of the file you want to work with, then choose theinput file type (side-by-side).
Next you choose the output file type, which offers the same options as the input file type, as well as the image format(JPG is the default, but TIFF and PNG formats do not lose any quality when modified multiple times).
Then there is an Adjust section of the box where you may check the "Auto Alignment" option as well as the "AutoColor Adjustment" option. There are many other options available, but not necessary for the beginner. Explore themwhen you become more familiar with the program. I have found that the W1 is well matched enough, that I only use theAuto Alignment option, not the Auto Color Adjustment.
Last, you set the Output Folder location by clicking on the browse button in this section. If you choose the same
destination as the source you will not have to change settings for each new group of images. Just be sure to move theoutput image to an appropriately named folder when you are finished. This is where you want to use the "AlignedPairs" file folder that you have already created for this purpose. Be sure to choose the FILE TYPE that you want forthe output files. I normally choose side-by-side.
Then you can click on the CONVERT ALL FILES button and walk away. Depending on the speed and configurationof your PC it can take from 5 seconds to 3 minutes per pair. My old computer takes about 45 seconds per pair. My
new dual core Pentium laptop takes about 18 seconds!
Hard as it is to believe, the program automatically adjusts the images for a correct stereo window, corrects image
rotation, size differences, and vertical difference errors! I can say from personal experience that it really works!
Problem images may be done manually, if the Auto Alignment does not work.
Once aligned, the side-by-side images can be converted to anaglyphs, or viewed using SPM in a variety of formats,including Interlaced for 3D monitors such as the Zalman 3D monitor, or for 3D Ready DLP TVs. You can also use
SPM to save your 3D image pair in MPO format, so that it may be put back onto the SD card for viewing in thecamera or V1 viewer. This is also useful for saving 3D pairs taken with other 3D cameras, or scanned 3D pairs.
You can also use the PRINT STEREO CARD option to format the side-by-side pair for printing on 4” x 6” photopaper, or in the classic vintage 3.5” x 7” stereo card format, for printing on 5” x 7” paper.
The program itself is amazingly small in size, at only about 0.5 MB. There is also a “Help” file which can be
downloaded, and it takes up about 5 megabytes. This has extensive illustrated instructions, and is strongly
recommended both for help and tutorial.
I hope this will provide you with enough information to get started using StereoPhoto Maker, and inspire you todownload it and give it a try. For further details of the program, see the SPM web page, and, when you download theprogram also download the HELP files. The HELP files contain extensive instructions on all of the features of theprogram.

-David Starkman, Culver City, CA-email: reel3d@aol.com
Below is the basic screen you will see if you bring a MPO file into the program for manual adjustment, cropping, oreven exposure tweaking or matching. I generally work with the side-by-side view that you see below, but you may
choose other viewing options. Note that if you hold the cursor over the icons that it will tell you what they do. Feel freeto explore. There are many output formats, and the Print section will format various stereo card formats! Explore! You
don’t have to save any mistakes!

Here is the PRINT STEREO CARD screen (set for a classic Holmes Style stereo card size):