Conference Venue:
EDMONTON CLINIC HEALTH ACADEMY (ECHA), UNIVERSITY OF ALBERTA
On the corner of 114 th Street and 87 th Avenue
All conference events will take place at ECHA except the first plenary address & reception (5-7:30 7 July).
See page 4 for details on travel & venue.

8:00
Conference Registration, Ground Floor ECHA
8:00-9:00 Coffee, 2 nd Floor ECHA, foyer outside 2-190
9:00-9:20 Conference Opening & Welcome - Asani, Oh Canada
ECHA 2-190
9:30-11:00

Parallel Session 1

Session 1.1. Tradition, Trade and Transformation in Amerindian Dress, 18th - 21st Centuries – Part 1
ECHA 2-430
Chair: Adrienne Hood, University of Toronto, Canada
Annette de Stecher, University of Colorado Boulder, USA.
“Dress and Investiture: Honour and Occasion in Nineteenth-Century Wendat Chiefly Regalia”
Cory Willmott, Southern Illinois University Edwardsville, USA“Visual Assimilation: Protestant Policies and Anishinaabe Everyday Dress, 1830s – 1930s”
Alexandra Nahwegahbow, Carleton University, Canada“Cradleboards as Dress: Survivance and Sacred Powers for Mother and Baby”
Session 1.2. The Performance and Politics of Dressing in China
ECHA 2-420
Chair: Ryan Dunch, University of Alberta, Canada
Yuxian Song, University of Alberta, Canada“Gender and Openness in the Late Ming Imperial Court in Beijing: Imperial Women’s Creative and Exotic Dressing”
Jennifer Jay, University of Alberta, Canada“Gender, Make-up and Costume at Sea and on Stage: Muslim Admiral Zheng He (1371-1433) and His Contemporaries ina New Beijing Opera”
Xiaolin Duan, Elon University, USA“Fashion, State & Social Changes: Chinese Silk in the 17th-Century Global Trade”

3/16/16 3:00 PM

Session 1.3. Shaping Bodily Knowledge
ECHA 2-150
Chair: Lesley Cormack, University of Alberta, Canada
Lianne McTavish, University of Alberta, Canada“The Tapeworm as Textile in Early Modern Europe”
Caroline Lieffers, Yale University, USA"Yankee Legs and White Man's Medicine: Artificial Limbs for Global Bodies
Session 1.4. Designing, Making & Dressing Global Bodies
ECHA 2-140
Chair: Julia Petrov, Royal Alberta Museum, Canada
Sarah Woodyard, Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, USA“18th-Century Female Mantua Makers and 21st-Century Makers: Uncovering the Skills and Techniques”
Abigail Cox, Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, USA“The Practice of Making 18th-Century Heads: Hairdressing within a Multi-Ethnic Colonial Fashion Environment”
Katherine Townsend, Juliana Sissons, and Ania Sadkowska, Nottingham Trent University, UK“Dressing the Baby Boomers: Rethinking Fashion Design for a New Demographic”

11:00-11:30

Coffee, ECHA 2 nd floor foyer, outside 2-190

11:30-1:00

Parallel Session 2

Session 2.1. Power, Politics and the Performance of Dress
ECHA 2-430
Chair: Antonia Finnane, University of Melbourne, Australia
Tara Mayer, University of British Columbia, Canada“Power Dressing: Indian Elites and the Politics of Fashion in British India”
Suchismita Chattopadhyay, Jawaharlal Nehru University, India“Nationalist Fashion and Women’s Bodies: Two Cases from Colonial India”
Session 2.2. Modern Styles, Political Effects
ECHA 2-420
Chair: Julia Petrov, Royal Alberta Museum, Canada
Andrea Severson, University of Texas El Paso, USA“Who Wears the Pants? A Comparative Study of American Public Reaction to Bloomers and Rationals”
Sonya Abrego, Pratt Institute, USA“Domesticating Otherness: The ‘Squaw’ and Patio Dress in Mid-20th Century America”

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Session 2.3. Iconic Dress, Globalizing WorldECHA 2-190
Chair: Sarah Cheang, Royal College of Art, UK
Ana Cardoso, and João Cordeiro, University of Saint Joseph, Macau“The Ceremonial Wedding Costume in Macanese History: Cross-cultural Practices & Patterns of Dress in a Colonial
Context”
Evan Stanfield, Concordia University, Canada“American Blue Jeans in Japan: How Blue Jeans Helped Mediate a Cold-War Cultural Exchange”
Vicki Kwon, University of Alberta, Canada“Uniforms of the Women’s Militia Performance in the 2009 National Day Parade: The New Ideal Women of China in theTransnational Flow of Pop Culture in East Asia”

Session 2.4. Slave Cloth/Clothing in the Early Modern WorldECHA 2-150
Chair: Giorgio Riello, University of Warwick, UK
Anka Steffen, Europa-Universität Viadrina Frankfurt (Oder), Germany"Silesians and Slaves: How Linen Textiles Connected East-Central Europe, Africa and the Americas"
Jody Benjamin, University of California Riverside, USA“Reading Cloth Consumption and Clothing Practices among the Enslaved in 18th-century Senegambia/Upper Guinea”
Miki Sugiura, Hosei University, Japan“Slave Clothing and Early Modern Dutch Cloth/Clothing Circulations in the Indian Ocean World”

Session 2.5. Making Masculine Dress: Comparative Perspectives
ECHA 2-140
Chair: Colleen Skidmore, University of Alberta, Canada
Jane Malcolm-Davies, University of Copenhagen, Denmark“Men, Materials & Making: Knitting in the Early Modern European Market”
Jonathan Kaplan, University of Technology Sydney, Australia“The Sartorial, Social and Aesthetic Role of Jewish Men in Fin de Siècle Vienna”

1:00-2:30 Lunch, ECHA 2 nd floor foyer, outside 2-190
1:30-2:00: Meet the Editor – Take this opportunity to meet the editor of Textile History, Dr. Vivienne
Richmond. She will discuss the process & possibilities of publishing with this highly ranked journal.
ECHA 2-150

2:00-3:30 University of Alberta Museum Tours

Guided tours: Mactaggart Collection, the Ethnographic Collection, or the Clothing & Textile Collection, Human Ecology.
PLEASE MEET AT THE REGISTRATION DESK AT 1:40PM TO BE ESCORTED TO THE COLLECTION SITE.

32:30-4:00 Parallel Session 3
Session 3.1. Bodies in Motion within a Globalizing WorldECHA 2-430
Chair: Annette de Stecher, University of Colorado Boulder, USA
Lauren Bird, Queen’s University, Canada“Costuming a Nation: Materiality and Femininity in Victorian Romantic Ballet”
Cecily Devereux, University of Alberta, Canada“‘A superior embodiment of Anglo-Saxonism’: Maud Allan and her Salome Costume”
Emily Brayshaw, University of Technology Sydney, Australia“A Pale Imitation: The Minkisi in the Parisian Music Hall of the Early 1900s”
Session 3.2. Clothing and Cultural Connections in the 19th and 20th Centuries
ECHA 2-420
Chair: Alexandra Palmer, Royal Ontario Museum, Canada
Cynthia Cooper, McCord Museum, Canada“The Roman Scarf: Ephemeral Fashion from the Eternal City”
Naoko Inoue, Tokyo International University, Japan“Meisen: The Fast Fashion of Japan in the 1920s and 1930s”
Eliana Stratica-Mihail, Independent Scholar, Montreal, QC, Canada“The White Wedding Dress: Local and Global Aspects of Feminist Art in 1970s Quebec”
Session 3.3. African Style(s) and the Politics of Dress I
ECHA 2-150
Chair: Ann McDougall, University of Alberta, Canada
Jody Benjamin, University of California Riverside, USA“Clothing as a Map to Senegambia’s Global Exchanges during the late 18th Century”
Lillian Omalara Shoroye, University of Ibadan, Nigeria“The Victorian Woman in Calabar, Southern Nigeria”
De-Valera Nana Yaw Mpere Botchway and Awo Abena Amoa Sarpong, University of Cape Coast, Ghana“Who Owns the Dress? Children’s Masquerade Clothing as a Contested Item in the Fancy Dress Club Politics of 20thCentury Cape Coast, Ghana”
Session 3.4. Representing Globalizing Fashion, 17th – 19th Centuries
ECHA 2-140
Chair: Anne Bissonnette, University of Alberta, Canada
Ami Mehta, Courtauld Institute of Art, UK“Revisiting The Album of Persian Costumes and Animals with Some Drawings by Kaempfer (c. 1684-5):‘Spaces Speak’ and ‘Clothes Communicate’ in Late-17th-Century Isfahan”
Kendra Van Cleave, San Francisco State University, USA“Turquerie and Enlightenment Philosophy in the French Fashion Press, 1770-1790”
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Sheilagh Quaile, Queen's University, Canada“Imaged Materiality: Two Kashmiri Shawls in Paintings by William Holman Hunt”

5:00-6:00 1 st Plenary Speaker Antonia Finnane, University of Melbourne“World Time and Chinese Fashions during the Maoist Era”

The first plenary address will take place at the University of Alberta Museum Galleries,
Enterprise Square, Jasper Avenue.
From the LRT stop Health Science/Jubilee Auditorium (just outside our building), travel 4 stops on
any northbound train to Bay/Enterprise Square.
Northbound trains will say either Clareview or NAIT as their final destination.
Disem bark at the Bay/Enterprise Square stop and take the escalators up to the Galleries.

6:00-7:30 Plenary Reception. Sponsored by The China Institute, University ofAlberta. The Plenary Address and Reception are Open to the Public.
- During the reception you are cordially invited to enjoy the featured exhibition and new
exhibition at the University of Alberta Museums Galleries: China through the Lens of John
Thomson (1868-1872) & Dandy Lines , a guest exhibition created by Caitlin Thompson.

8:00 Conference Registration & Coffee

9:00-10:30

Parallel Session 4

Session 4.1. Tradition, Trade and Transformation in Amerindian Dress, 18th - 21st Centuries – Part 2
ECHA 2-190
Chair: Sarah Carter, University of Alberta, Canada
Denise N. Green, Cornell University, USA“Robes of Resistance: From Nuu-chah-nulth Thliitsapilthim (Dance Screens) to Huulthin”
Fiona McDonald, Indiana University, Perdue University at Indianapolis, USA“Tlingit Button Robes: Materials that Move and Make Meaning”
Sherry Farrell Racette, University of Manitoba, Canada“Ballgowns, Moccasins and Pad Saddles: Métis Dress as Spectacle and Performance”
Session 4.2. Dressing Colonial Bodies
ECHA 2-420
Chair: Giorgio Riello, University of Warwick, UK

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Stephanie Koscak, Wake Forest University, USA“Empire of Fashion: Reproducing London’s Beau Monde in 18th-Century Charleston”
Jane Malthus, Otago Museum, New Zealand“Dressing Settlers in New Zealand: Global Inter-Connections”

Session 4.3. African Style(s) and the Politics of Dress II
ECHA 2-150
Chair: Karen Tranberg Hansen, Northwestern University, USA
Suzanne Gott, University of British Columbia Okanagan, Canada“African-Print Fashion in Historical and Contemporary Globalizing Eras”
Elizabeth Fretwell, University of Chicago, USA“Gender and Artisanal Clothing Production in Benin, West Africa, 1940s-1980s”

Session 4.4. Fashion Politics in Europe & Beyond
ECHA 2-140
Chair: Adrienne Hood, University of Toronto, Canada
Ariane Fennetaux, University of Paris Diderot, France“The Pine, the Cherry and the Bamboo? 18th-Century Men’s Dressing Gowns, Global Markets and Material
Hybridization”
Paula D. Davis, Bucknell University, USA“Layers of Memories: Stories of Balkan Traditional Folk Dress”

Session 4.5. The Iconic “Global Body”: Connecting Place and Placeless Through Dress
ECHA 2-430
Chair: Yoshiko Nakano, University of Hong Kong
Keiko Suzuki, Ritsumeikan University, Japan“A Uniform to Embody a Tropical Paradise: Domestication of the Aloha Shirt in Asia”
Emi Goto, University of Tokyo, Japan“Dressing ‘Pious’ Bodies: Globalizing Media and Narratives of Repentance in Contemporary Egypt”
Ellan Spero, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, USA, and Singapore University of Technology and Design, Singapore“‘Global Bodies’ in Transit: Airline Uniforms and National Branding”

10:30-11:00

Coffee, ECHA 2 nd floor foyer, outside 2-190

11:00-12:30

Parallel Session 5

Session 5.1. Iconic Canadian Wear: Exploring Canadian Identity Through Dress
ECHA 2-430
Chair: Anne Bissonnette, University of Alberta, Canada
Julie-Ann Mercer, University of Alberta, Canada
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“Peter Rindisbacher and the Views in Hudson’s Bay: Representations of Red River Metis Dress”
Sara Komarnisky, University of Alberta, Canada“A ‘Canadian Tuxedo’ and Edmonton-Area Garment Work”
Session 5.2. Design, Production, and Marketing of African Printed Cloth in the Twentieth Century: Shifting Dominancefrom Europe to JapanECHA 2-420
Chair: Ann McDougall, University of Alberta, Canada
Takamasa Ueoka, Osaka University of Arts, Japan“The Origins of ‘African Prints’: Trans-bordering Copy Production in the Netherlands”
Aya Ueda, Kyoto Institute of Technology, Japan“From Kyoto to Africa: Creating ‘African Wax’ and ‘Javafrican Prints’ from Daido-Maruta in Japan, 1930s-1960s”
MacKenzie Moon Ryan, Rollins College, USA.
“Designed by Resident Indian Traders, Consumed by East African Women: Japanese Dominance in Imported Kanga Cloth
Production, 1950-1981”

Session 5.3. Economies of Texture: Turning Skin, Fur and Feathers into Apparel
ECHA 2-150
Chair: Beverly Lemire, University of Alberta, Canada
Susanna Burghartz, University of Basel, Switzerland“Patterns of similarity? Skin, Fur and Cloth in De Bry’s Travel Reports (1590 – 1630)”
Katherine Bond, University of Cambridge, UK“Hierarchies of Texture: Feathers, Fur, and Fabrics in Costume Books”
Ann Rosalind Jones, Smith College, USA“From Toucans and Flamingos: Mexican and Brazilian Feather Garments as Objects of Wonder and Trophies ofColonialism”

12:30-2:00

Lunch, ECHA 2 nd floor foyer, outside 2-190

2:00-3:30 University of Alberta Museum Tours

Guided tours: Mactaggart Collection, the Ethnographic Collection, or the Clothing & Textile Collection, Human Ecology.
PLEASE MEET AT THE REGISTRATION DESK AT 1:40PM TO BE ESCORTED TO THE COLLECTION SITE.

2:00-3:30

Parallel Session 6

Session 6.1. Uniforms and Uniformity through Institutions and Culture in the 19th-Century
ECHA 2-430
Chair: Joan Greer, University of Alberta, Canada
Meaghan Walker, University of Alberta, Canada“Soldiers at Sea? Anxieties about the Uniforms of the Royal Marines, 1793-1815”
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Vivienne Richmond, Goldsmiths College, University of London, UK“The Colonial Stitch: Needlework Instructions in Britain and Canada (via Madras)”
Sharon Peoples, Australian National University, Australia“Globalization and the Suit: Migrants and Migration”
Session 6.2. Circulating, Hidden and Missing: Interrogating Clothing Paths
ECHA 2-420
Chair: Cecily Devereux, University of Alberta, Canada
Timothy Campbell, University of Chicago, USA“Christian Boltanski’s Global Dress without Bodies”
Oren Segal, Tomas Bata University, Czech Republic“Hidden Trends in Post-Socialist Slovak Fashion: Re-visiting James Scott’s Work on Hidden Transcripts”
Sarah Amato, Alberta Legislative Assembly Office, Canada“Clothing Lost and Found in the Edmonton Transit System”
Session 6.3. Fabrics of Empire: Materializing Local Cultures in a Globalized WorldECHA 2-150
Chair: Lisa Claypool, University of Alberta, Canada
Sarah Cheang, Royal College of Art, London, UK“Wearing the Chinese / Spanish Shawl: Fashion, Geography and Embodiment”
BuYun Chen, Swarthmore College, USA“Fabricating a Kingdom: Bingata and the Making of Ryūkyūan Court Costume”
Rachel Silberstein, Rhode Island School of Design, USA“Fashioning the Foreign: British Woollens in 19th-Century Chinese Dress”
Session 6.4. Europeans within the Early Modern World of Fashion
ECHA 2-140
Chair: Lianne McTavish, University of Alberta, Canada
Ashley Sims, University of Alberta, Canada“‘Tuo or threi peicis of the best stuffs’: An Edinburgh Merchant in an Age of Global Exchange, 1630-1650”
Elizabeth Spencer, University of York, UK“‘Five of my Best silk Gowns [and] four of my best second aprons’: Bequeathing Women’s Clothing in 18th-century
England”

3:30-4:00 BREAK
4:00-5:00 2 nd Plenary Speaker, The Plenary Address and Reception are Open to
the Public. ECHA 2-190
Karen Tranberg Hansen, Northwestern University
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“Global Fashion Encounters & Africa: Affective Materialities in Zambia”

5:00-6:30 Plenary Reception, ECHA 2 nd floor foyer, outside 2-190

8:30-9:00 Conference Registration & Coffee
9:00-10:30

Parallel Session 7

Session 7.1 Revealing Māori dress; dynamism, agency and cross-cultural exchange
ECHA 2-430
Chair: Cory Willmott, Southern Illinois University Edwardsville, USA
Catherine Smith, University of Otago, New Zealand“What is traditional? How Study of pre-European Māori Textiles Reveals Culture”
Hokimate Harwood, Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa, New Zealand“The Assimilation of European Materials and Culture in 19th-century Māori Cloaks: Using Case Studies of Māori
Feather Cloaks in the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa Collections”
Chanel Clarke, Auckland Museum, New Zealand“Māori Self-Fashioning on the Global Stage”
Session 7.2. Remaking the Body and Body Politic: New Fashions in Africa and Asia
ECHA 2-420
Chair: Beverly Lemire, University of Alberta, Canada
Sarah Fee, Royal Ontario Museum, Canada“The King’s New Clothing: ‘European’ Dress as Political Tool in Pre-Colonial Madagascar, c. 1820s-1865”
Paola Zamperini, Northwestern University, USA“For the Love of a Peacock: Affect and Fashion in Late Imperial Chinese Fiction”
Session 7.3. Fashioning the Cosmopolitan Body: Places and Spaces
ECHA 2-150
Chair: Guy Thompson, University of Alberta, Canada
Alex Aubry, Northern Illinois University, USA“Cosmopolitan Arabia: Exploring Cross-Cultural Encounters through Dress & Adornment”
Alexandra Palmer, Royal Ontario Museum, Canada“Tweed, Ontario to Paris, France: Cultural Transformations of Fashions in the 20th Century”
Syprien Christian Zogo, Laval University, Canada“Clothing and the Culture of Appearances: Class, Gender and Identity in Colonial Bamun (West Cameroon)”9Session 7.4. Colonial Fashion, Global Interventions I
ECHA 2-190
Chair: Michael Polushin, University of Alberta, Canada
Amalia Ramirez Garayzar, Universidad Intercultural Indígena de Michoacán, Mexico“Rebozos, Pañones and Perrajes: Women’s Clothing in Colonial Latin American and the Manila Galleon”
Sarah Templier, Johns Hopkins University, USA“From Rags to ‘Everyday Fashions’: Stealing and Recirculating Clothes, Textiles and Accessories in Early Republican
Philadelphia”
Anthony Parent, Jr., Wake Forest University, USA“Dressed for Flight: Indented, Convicted, and Enslaved Runaways in Virginia, 1740-1775”
Session 7.5 Colonizing Dress, Creating Culture
Chair: Sarah Carter, University of Alberta, Canada
ECHA 2-140
Marcia Gail Anderson, Independent Scholar, St. Paul, MN, USA“Gashkibidaagan: A Bag Worth a Pony: Ojibwe Bandolier Bags in the Upper Midwest, c. 1900-1925”
Annette Atkins, Saint John’s University, USA“Walking Across Racial Lines”

10:30-11:00

Coffee, ECHA 2 nd floor foyer, outside 2-190

11:00-12:00
3 rd Plenary Speaker, The Plenary Address and Reception areOpen to the Public. ECHA 2-190
Dana Leibsohn, Smith College“Colonial/Cosmopolitan: Dressing Up in Spanish America”

12:00-1:30 Plenary Reception Lunch, ECHA 2 nd floor foyer, outside 2-190
1:30-3:00 Parallel Session 88.1. The Political Practice of Making
ECHA 2-430
Chair: Vivienne Richmond, Goldsmith College, UK
Hissako Anjo, Bunka Gakuen University, Japan“Japanese Tailors and Tailoring Techniques: Focusing on the Reception of Western Tailoring Methods in the Early 20th
Century”
Caitlin Thompson, Glenbow Museum, Canada“Dandy Lines: Beneath the Surface of the Western Sartorial Identity”
Steven McNeil, Queen’s University, Canada“Dressing the Part: Gender, Politics and the Gown Commissioned for Jeanne Sauvè’s Investiture as Governor General of10Canada”

Session 8.2. Cultures & Costume: Bollywood & the Indian Subcontinent of Dress
ECHA 2-420
Chair: Betsy Boone, University of Alberta, Canada
Dalbir S. Sehmby, Campus St. Jean, University of Alberta, Canada“The Punjabi Sikh Bana: Manifesting Identity through Fashion”
Cheri Vasek, University of Hawai’i, Manoa, USA“Through an Indian Lens: Film Costume Designers Interpret the World”
Deepsikha Chatterjee, Hunter College, City University of New York, USA“Bollywood Bodies: Definitions Over Decades and Across Regions”
Session 8.3. Fashion Systems Disrupted
ECHA2-150
Chair: Donica Belisle, University of Regina, Canada
Linda Welters, University of Rhode Island, USA“Fashion Systems Collide: The Contact Period in New England, 1524-1675”
Rosalind Rothwell, Georgetown University, USA“From Imperial Dress to Yankee Fashion: Indian Calico & the Chesapeake, 1721-1793”
Catherine Mas, Yale University, USA“The Reform Dress as Technology in 19th-Century America”
Session 8.4. Local Styles, Global Influences
ECHA 2-140
Chair: Colleen Skidmore, University of Alberta, Canada
Salvatore Ciriacono, University of Padua, Italy“Venetian Dressing: The Capital, the Mainland, the Maritime Provinces”
Gabi Julia Schopf, University of Bern, Switzerland“Local Distribution of Global Textiles: East Indian Silks and Printed Cottons in the Basel Newspapers”
Anne Bissonnette, University of Alberta, Canada“Across Time & Place: Investigating Classical and Continental Influences in Macaroni Dress”

3:00-3:30 Coffee, ECHA 2 nd floor foyer, outside 2-190
3:30-5:00 Parallel Session 9
Session 9.1. Retailing and Consuming: Global & Local
Chair: Sarah Carter, University of Alberta, Canada
ECHA 2-420
Emily C. Bruce, and Mary Jo Maynes, University of Minnesota, USA; and Eric S. Roubinek, University of North Carolina
Asheville, USA
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“Markets, Class-Cultures, and Girls’ Self-Fashioning in South-western Germany, 1750-1850”
Jonathan Gosnell, Smith College, USA“The Fashionable Franco-American: At the Bon Marché on the Merrimack”
Donica Belisle, University of Regina, Canada“Dress and Citizenship in a White Settler Nation: The Case of Canada before World War II”

Session 9.2. Globalizing, Materializing Asian Dress
ECHA 2-150
Chair: Lisa Claypool, University of Alberta, Canada
Abby Lillethun, Montclair State University, USA“The Javanese Kebay: Tracery of Multiple Flows”
Ann Salmonson, University of Alberta, Canada“Recycling the Emperor: From the Grand Sacrifice to Paris Fashion Week”
Session 9.3 Shaping Global Exchange: Worlds of Fashion and Clothing
ECHA 2-190
Chair: Sarah Fee, Royal Ontario Museum, Canada
Giorgio Riello, University of Warwick, UK“Wardrobes of Curiosity: Costume Books and the 16th-Century Shaping of Global Geographies”
Beverly Lemire, University of Alberta, Canada“Contact, Connection, Translation: Stitching the Global, c. 1600s-1800s”
Laura Jocic, University of Melbourne, Australia“‘Anything for Mere Show Would be Worse than Useless’: Emigration, Dress and the Australian Colonies, 1820-1860”

Closing Remarks 5:05-5:30
ECHA 2-190- Wrap up remarks presented by Antonia Finnane, Karen Tranberg Hansen & Dana Leibsohn

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