Bicycle Owner’s Manual
10th Edition, 2014
This manual meets ISO­-4210, 16 CFR 1512, EN 14764, EN 14766
and EN 14781 Standards

IMPORTANT:This manual contains important safety, performance and service information.
Read it before you take the first ride on your new bicycle, and keep it forreference.
Additional safety, performance and service information for specific components
such as suspension or pedals on your bicycle, or for accessories such as
helmets or lights that you purchase, may also be available. Make sure that yourdealer has given you all the manufacturers’ literature that was included withyour bicycle or accessories. In case of a conflict between the instructions in thismanual and information provided by a component manufacturer, always follow
the component manufacturer’s instructions.
If you have any questions or do not understand something, take responsibility foryour safety and consult with your dealer or the bicycle’s manufacturer.
NOTE:
This manual is not intended as a comprehensive use, service, repair or maintenancemanual. Please see your dealer for all service, repairs or maintenance. Your dealer
may also be able to refer you to classes, clinics or books on bicycle use, service,repair or maintenance.

191950 6/19 | 80-000228_INST_C

Contents
GENERAL WARNING								p. 1
A special note to parents							
p. 21. First
A. Bike fit													
p. 3B. Safety first										
p. 3C. Mechanical Safety Check							
p. 3D. First ride												
p. 52. Safety
A. The Basics										p. 6
B. Riding Safety									
p. 7C. Off Road Safety								
p. 8D. Wet Weather Riding							
p. 8E. Night Riding									
p. 9F. Extreme, stunt or competition riding				
p. 10
G. Changing Components or Adding Accessories			
p. 11
3.Fit
A. Standover height								p. 11
B. Saddle position								p. 12
C. Handlebar height and angle						p. 14D. Control position adjustments						p. 15E. Brake reach									p. 15
4. TechA. Wheels													p. 16
		1. secondary retention devices						p. 18		2. Wheels with cam action systems						p. 18		3. Removing and installing wheels						p. 19B. Seat post cam action clamp						p. 22C. Brakes													p. 23D. Shifting gears									p. 25
E. Pedals													p. 28
F. Bicycle Suspension							p. 29G. Tires and Tubes								p. 305. Service
A. Service Intervals								p. 32B. If your bicycle sustains an impact						p. 34Appendix A: Intended Use							p. 35Appendix B: Lifespan of your bike and its components			
p. 41
Appendix C: Coaster Brakes							p. 49
Appendix D: Fastener Torque Specifications				
p. 51

GENERAL WARNING:

Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and damage. By choosing toride a bicycle, you assume the responsibility for that risk, so you need to know
— and to practice — the rules of safe and responsible riding and of proper use
and maintenance. Proper use and maintenance of your bicycle reduces risk of
injury.
This Manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” concerning theconsequences of failure to maintain or inspect your bicycle and of failure to follow
safe cycling practices.
•The combination of thesafety alert symbol and the word WARNING
indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, could result inserious injury or death.
•The combination of thesafety alert symbol and the word CAUTION
indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, may result inminor or moderate injury, or is an alert against unsafe practices.
•The word CAUTION used without the safety alert symbol indicates a situation
which, if not avoided, could result in serious damage to the bicycle or the voidingof your warranty.
Many of the Warnings and Cautions say “you may lose control and fall”.
Because any fall can result in serious injury or even death, we do not always
repeat the warning of possible injury or death.
Because it is impossible to anticipate every situation or condition which canoccur while riding, this Manual makes no representation about the safe useof the bicycle under all conditions. There are risks associated with the useof any bicycle which cannot be predicted or avoided, and which are the sole
responsibility of the rider.

1

A special note for parents:
WARNING: This manal does not cover Juvenile or BMX bicycles.
As a parent or guardian, you are responsible for the activities and safetyof your minor child, and that includes making sure that the bicycle is properly
fitted to the child; that it is in good repair and safe operating condition; that you
and your child have learned and understand the safe operation of the bicycle;
and that you and your child have learned, understand and obey not only theapplicable local motor vehicle, bicycle and traffic laws, but also the common
sense rules of safe and responsible bicycling. As a parent, you should read thismanual, as well as review its warnings and the bicycle’s functions and operatingprocedures with your child, before letting your child ride the bicycle.
WARNING: Make sure that your child always wears an approved
bicycle helmet when riding; but also make sure that your childunderstands that a bicycle helmet is for bicycling only, and must be
removed when not riding. A helmet must not be worn while playing, in playareas, on playground equipment, while climbing trees, or at any time while
not riding a bicycle. Failure to follow this warning could result in serious
injury or death.

21. First
NOTE: We strongly urge you to read this Manual in its entirety before your firstride. At the very least, read and make sure that you understand each point in thissection, and refer to the cited sections on any issue which you don’t completely
understand. Please note that not all bicycles have all of the features described inthis Manual. Ask your dealer to point out the features of your bicycle.

A. Bike fit
1. Is your bike the right size? To check, see Section 3.A. If your bicycle is toolarge or too small for you, you may lose control and fall. If your new bike is not
the right size, ask your dealer to exchange it before you ride it.
2. Is the saddle at the right height? To check, see Section 3.B. If you adjust
your saddle height, follow the Minimum Insertion instructions in Section 3.B.
3. Are saddle and seat post securely clamped? A correctly tightened saddle willallow no saddle movement in any direction. See Section 3.B.
4. Are the stem and handlebars at the right height for you? If not, see Section
3.C.
5. Can you comfortably operate the brakes? If not, you may be able to adjust
their angle and reach. See Section 3.D and 3.E.
6. Do you fully understand how to operate your new bicycle? If not, before yourfirst ride, have your dealer explain any functions or features which you do notunderstand.

B.Safety first

1. Always wear an approved helmet when riding your bike, and follow thehelmet manufacturer’s instructions for fit, use and care.
2. Do you have all the other required and recommended safety equipment?
See Section 2. It’s your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of theareas where you ride, and to comply with all applicable laws.
3. Do you know how to correctly secure your front and rear wheels? Check
Section 4.A.1 to make sure. Riding with an improperly secured wheel can cause
the wheel to wobble or disengage from the bicycle, and cause serious injury or
death.
4. If your bike has toeclips and straps or clipless (“step-in”) pedals, makesure you know how they work (see Section 4.E). These pedals require special
techniques and skills. Follow the pedal manufacturer’s instructions for use,
adjustment and care.
5. Do you have “toe overlap”? On smaller framed bicycles your toe or toeclip
may be able to contact the front wheel when a pedal is all the way forward
and the wheel is turned. Read Section 4.E. to check whether you have toeclip
overlap.
6. Does your bike have suspension? If so, check Section 4.F. Suspension
can change the way a bicycle performs. Follow the suspension manufacturer’s
instructions for use, adjustment and care.

C. Mechanical Safety Check

Routinely check the condition of your bicycle before every ride.
• Nuts, bolts screws & other fasteners: Because manufacturers use
3

a wide variety of fastener sizes and shapes made in a variety of materials,
often differing by model and component, the correct tightening force or torquecannot be generalized. To make sure that the many fasteners on your bicycle
are correctly tightened, refer to the Fastener Torque Specifications in Appendix
D of this manual or to the torque specifications in the instructions provided by
the manufacturer of the component in question. Correctly tightening a fastenerrequires a calibrated torque wrench. A professional bicycle mechanic with atorque wrench should torque the fasteners on you bicycle. If you choose to workon your own bicycle, you must use a torque wrench and the correct tightening
torque specifications from the bicycle or component manufacturer or from yourdealer. If you need to make an adjustment at home or in the field, we urge you to
exercise care, and to have the fasteners you worked on checked by your dealer
as soon as possible. Note that there are some components which require special
tools and knowledge. In Sections 3 and 4 we discuss the items which you may
be able to adjust yourself. All other adjustments and repairs should be done by aqualified bicycle mechanic.
WARNING: Correct tightening force on fasteners –nuts, bolts,
screws– on your bicycle is important. Too little force, and thefastener may not hold securely. Too much force, and the fastenercan strip threads, stretch, deform or break. Either way, incorrect tightening
force can result in component failure, which can cause you to loose control
and fall.
• Make sure nothing is loose. Lift the front wheel off the ground by two or threeinches, then let it bounce on the ground. Anything sound, feel or look loose? Do
a visual and tactile inspection of the whole bike. Any loose parts or accessories?
If so, secure them. If you’re not sure, ask someone with experience to check.
• Tires & Wheels: Make sure tires are correctly inflated (see Section
4.G.1). Check by putting one hand on the saddle, one on the intersection of thehandlebars and stem, then bouncing your weight on the bike while looking at tire
deflection. Compare what you see with how it looks when you know the tires arecorrectly inflated; and adjust if necessary.
• Tires in good shape? Spin each wheel slowly and look for cuts in the tread
and sidewall. Replace damaged tires before riding the bike.
• Wheels true? Spin each wheel and check for brake clearance and side-toside wobble. If a wheel wobbles side to side even slightly, or rubs against or hits
the brake pads, take the bike to a qualified bike shop to have the wheel trued.
CAUTION: Wheels must be true for rim brakes to work effectively.
Wheel trueing is a skill which requires special tools and experience.
Do not attempt to true a wheel unless you have the knowledge,
experience and tools needed to do the job correctly.
• Wheel rims clean and undamaged? Make sure the rims are clean andundamaged at the tire bead and, if you have rim brakes, along the braking
surface. Check to make sure that any rim wear indicator marking is not visible atany point on the wheel rim.

4

WARNING: Bicycle wheel rims are subject to wear. Ask your dealer
about wheel rim wear. Some wheel rims have a rim wear indicatorwhich becomes visible as the rim’s braking surface wears. A visible
rim wear indicator on the side of the wheel rim is an indication that thewheel rim has reached its maximum usable life. Riding a wheel that is at
the end of its usable life can result in wheel failure, which can cause you toloose control and fall.
• Brakes: Check the brakes for proper operation (see Sections 4.C).
Squeeze the brake levers. Are the brake quick-releases closed? All control
cables seated and securely engaged? If you have rim brakes, do the brakepads contact the wheel rim squarely and make full contact with the rim? Do thebrakes begin to engage within an inch of brake lever movement? Can you apply
full braking force at the levers without having them touch the handlebar? If not,your brakes need adjustment. Do not ride the bike until the brakes are properly
adjusted by a professional bicycle mechanic.
• Wheel retention system: Make sure the front and rear wheels are correctly
secured. See Section 4.A• Seat post: If your seat post has an over-center cam action fastener for easy
height adjustment, check that it is properly adjusted and in the locked position.
See Section 4.B.
• Handlebar and saddle alignment: Make sure the saddle and handlebar
stem are parallel to the bike’s center line and clamped tight enough so that you
can’t twist them out of alignment. See Sections 3.B and 3.C.
• Handlebar ends: Make sure the handlebar grips are secure and in goodcondition, with no cuts, tears, or worn out areas. If not, have your dealer
replace them. Make sure the handlebar ends and extensions are plugged. If
not, have your dealer plug them before you ride. If the handlebars have bar end
extensions, make sure they are clamped tight enough so you can’t twist them.
WARNING: Loose or damaged handlebar grips or extensions cancause you to lose control and fall. Unplugged handlebars or
extensions can cut you and cause serious injury in an otherwise
minor accident.
VERY IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE:
Please also read and become thoroughly familiar with the important
information on the lifespan of your bicycle and its components in Appendix
B on Page 43.

D. First ride

When you buckle on your helmet and go for your first familiarization ride on
your new bicycle, be sure to pick a controlled environment, away from cars, othercyclists, obstacles or other hazards. Ride to become familiar with the controls,
features and performance of your new bike.
Familiarize yourself with the braking action of the bike (see Section 4.C). Test
the brakes at slow speed, putting your weight toward the rear and gently applying
the brakes, rear brake first. Sudden or excessive application of the front brake
could pitch you over the handlebars. Applying brakes too hard can lock up a5wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall. Skidding is an example ofwhat can happen when a wheel locks up.
If your bicycle has toeclips or clipless pedals, practice getting in and out of thepedals. See paragraph B.4 above and Section 4.E.4.
If your bike has suspension, familiarize yourself with how the suspension
responds to brake application and rider weight shifts. See paragraph B.6 above
and Section 4.F.
Practice shifting the gears (see Section 4.D). Remember to never move theshifter while pedaling backward, nor pedal backwards immediately after having
moved the shifter. This could jam the chain and cause serious damage to thebicycle.
Check out the handling and response of the bike; and check the comfort.
If you have any questions, or if you feel anything about the bike is not as itshould be, consult your dealer before you ride again.

2. Safety
A. The Basics
   WARNING: The area in which you ride may require specific safety
devices. It is your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of
the area where you ride and to comply with all applicable laws, including
properly equipping yourself and your bike as the law requires.
Observe all local bicycle laws and regulations. Observe regulations
about bicycle lighting, licensing of bicycles, riding on
sidewalks, laws regulating bike path and trail use, helmet
laws, child carrier laws, special bicycle traffic laws. It’s yourresponsibility to know and obey the laws.
1. Always wear a cycling helmet which meets the latest
certification standards and is appropriate for the type of riding you
do. Always follow the helmet manufacturer’s instructions for fit,use and care of your helmet. Most serious bicycle injuries involve head injuries
which might have been avoided if the rider had worn an appropriate helmet.
WARNING: Failure to wear a helmet when riding may result in serious
injury or death.
2. Always do the Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C) before you get on abike.
3. Be thoroughly familiar with the controls of your bicycle: brakes (Section
4.C.); pedals (Section 4.E.); shifting (Section 4.D.)
4. Be careful to keep body parts and other objects away from the sharp teethof chainrings, the moving chain, the turning pedals and cranks, and the spinning
wheels of your bicycle.
5. Always wear:		• Shoes that will stay on your feet and will grip the pedals. Make sure that6

shoe laces cannot get into moving parts, and never ride barefoot or in sandals.
		• Bright, visible clothing that is not so loose that it can be tangled in thebicycle or snagged by objects at the side of the road or trail.
		• Protective eyewear, to protect against airborne dirt, dust and bugs — tinted
when the sun is bright, clear when it’s not.
6. Unless your bicycle was specifically designed for jumping (See Appendix
A, Intended Use) don’t jump with your bike. Jumping a bike, particularly a BMX
or mountain bike, can be fun; but it can put huge and unpredictable stress on thebicycle and its components. Riders who insist on jumping their bikes risk serious
damage, to their bicycles as well as to themselves. Before you attempt to jump,
do stunt riding or race with your bike, read and understand Section 2.F.
7. Ride at a speed appropriate for conditions. Higher speed means higher risk.

B. Riding Safety
1. Obey all Rules of the Road and all local traffic laws.
2. You are sharing the road or the path with others — motorists, pedestrians
and other cyclists. Respect their rights.
3. Ride defensively. Always assume that others do not see you.
4. Look ahead, and be ready to avoid:		• Vehicles slowing or turning, entering the road or your lane ahead of you, or
coming up behind you.
		• Parked car doors opening.
		• Pedestrians stepping out.
		• Children or pets playing near the road.
		• Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks, expansion joints, road or sidewalk
construction, debris and other obstructions that could cause you to swerve into
traffic, catch your wheel or cause you to have an accident.
		• The many other hazards and distractions which can occur on a bicycle ride.
5. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated bike paths or as close to theedge of the road as possible, in the direction of traffic flow or as directed by local
governing laws.
6. Stop at stop signs and traffic lights; slow down and look both ways at street
intersections. Remember that a bicycle always loses in a collision with a motor
vehicle, so be prepared to yield even if you have the right of way.
7. Use approved hand signals for turning and stopping.
8. Never ride with headphones. They mask traffic sounds and emergency
vehicle sirens, distract you from concentrating on what’s going on around you,and their wires can tangle in the moving parts of the bicycle, causing you to lose
control.
9. Never carry a passenger; and, before installing a child carrier or trailer,
check with your dealer or the bicycle manufacturer to make sure the bicycle isdesigned for it. If the bicycle is suitable for a child carrier or trailer, make sure thatthe carrier or trailer is correctly mounted and the child is secured and wearing anapproved helmet.
10. Never carry anything which obstructs your vision or your complete controlof the bicycle, or which could become entangled in the moving parts of thebicycle.
11. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another vehicle.
712. Don’t do stunts, wheelies or jumps. If you intend to do stunts, wheelies,
jumps or go racing with your bike despite our advice not to, read Section 2.F,
Downhill, Stunt or Competition Biking, now. Think carefully about your skills
before deciding to take the large risks that go with this kind of riding.
13. Don’t weave through traffic or make any moves that may surprise people
with whom you are sharing the road.
14. Observe and yield the right of way.
15. Never ride your bicycle while under the influence of alcohol or drugs.
16. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when visibility is obscured, at
dawn, dusk or in the dark, or when extremely tired. Each of these conditions
increases the risk of accident.

C. Off Road Safety

We recommend that children not ride on rough terrain unless they areaccompanied by an adult.
1. The variable conditions and hazards of off-road riding require close attention
and specific skills. Start slowly on easier terrain and build up your skills. If yourbike has suspension, the increased speed you may develop also increases yourrisk of losing control and falling. Get to know how to handle your bike safely
before trying increased speed or more difficult terrain.
2. Wear safety gear appropriate to the kind of riding you plan to do.
3. Don’t ride alone in remote areas. Even when riding with others, make surethat someone knows where you’re going and when you expect to be back.
4. Always take along some kind of identification, so that people know who you
are in case of an accident; and take along some cash for food, a cool drink or an
emergency phone call.
5. Yield right of way to pedestrians and animals. Ride in a way that does notfrighten or endanger them, and give them enough room so that their unexpectedmoves don’t endanger you.
6. Be prepared. If something goes wrong while you’re riding off-road, help may
not be close.
7. Before you attempt to jump, do stunt riding or race with your bike, read andunderstand Section 2.F.
Off Road respect
Obey the local laws regulating where and how you can ride off-road, andrespect private property. You may be sharing the trail with others — hikers,
equestrians, other cyclists. Respect their rights. Stay on the designated trail.
Don’t contribute to erosion by riding in mud or with unnecessary sliding. Don’t
disturb the ecosystem by cutting your own trail or shortcut through vegetation
or streams. It is your responsibility to minimize your impact on the environment.
Leave things as you found them; and always take out everything you brought in.

D. Wet Weather Riding
WARNING: Wet weather impairs traction, braking and visibility, bothfor the bicyclist and for other vehicles sharing the road. The risk of an
accident is dramatically increased in wet conditions.
8Under wet conditions, the stopping power of your brakes (as well as thebrakes of other vehicles sharing the road) is dramatically reduced and your tires
don’t grip nearly as well. This makes it harder to control speed and easier to lose
control. To make sure that you can slow down and stop safely in wet conditions,ride more slowly and apply your brakes earlier and more gradually than you
would under normal, dry conditions. See also Section 4.C.

E. Night Riding

Riding a bicycle at night is much more dangerous than riding during the day. A
bicyclist is very difficult for motorists and pedestrians to see. Therefore, children
should never ride at dawn, at dusk or at night. Adults who chose to accept thegreatly increased risk of riding at dawn, at dusk or at night need to take extra
care both riding and choosing specialized equipment which helps reduce thatrisk. Consult your dealer about night riding safety equipment.
  WARNING: Reflectors are not a substitute for required lights. Riding
at dawn, at dusk, at night or at other times of poor visibility without
an adequate bicycle lighting system and without reflectors isdangerous and may result in serious injury or death.
Bicycle reflectors are designed to pick up and reflect car lights and street lights
in a way that may help you to be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist.
   CAUTION: Check reflectors and their mounting brackets regularly tomake sure that they are clean, straight, unbroken and securely
mounted.  Have your dealer replace damaged reflectors andstraighten or tighten any that are bent or loose.
The mounting brackets of front and rear reflectors are often designed as brakestraddle cable safety catches which prevent the straddle cable from catching on
the tire tread if the cable jumps out of its yoke or breaks.
   WARNING: Do not remove the front or rear reflectors or reflector
brackets from your bicycle. They are an integral part of the bicycle’s
safety system.
Removing the reflectors reduces your visibility to others using theroadway. Being struck by other vehicles may result in serious injury or
death.
The reflector brackets may protect you from a brake straddle cable
catching on the tire in the event of brake cable failure. If a brake straddle
cable catches on the tire, it can cause the wheel to stop suddenly, causing
you to loose control and fall.
If you choose to ride under conditions of poor visibility, check and be sure
you comply with all local laws about night riding, and take the following strongly
recommended additional precautions:• Purchase and install battery or generator powered head and tail lights
which meet all regulatory requirements for where you live and provide adequate
visibility.
9• Wear light colored, reflective clothing and accessories, such as a reflective
vest, reflective arm and leg bands, reflective stripes on your helmet, flashinglights attached to your body and/or your bicycle ... any reflective device or lightsource that moves will help you get the attention of approaching motorists,
pedestrians and other traffic.
• Make sure your clothing or anything you may be carrying on the bicycle does
not obstruct a reflector or light.
• Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with correctly positioned andsecurely mounted reflectors.
While riding at dawn, at dusk or at night:• Ride slowly.
• Avoid dark areas and areas of heavy or fast-moving traffic.
• Avoid road hazards.
• If possible, ride on familiar routes.
If riding in traffic:• Be predictable. Ride so that drivers can see you and predict yourmovements.
• Be alert. Ride defensively and expect the unexpected.
• If you plan to ride in traffic often, ask your dealer about traffic safety classes
or a good book on bicycle traffic safety.

F. Extreme, stunt or competition riding

Whether you call it Aggro, Hucking, Freeride, North Shore, Downhill, Jumping,
Stunt Riding, Racing or something else: if you engage in this sort of extreme,
aggressive riding you will get hurt, and you voluntarily assume a greatly
increased risk of injury or death.
Not all bicycles are designed for these types of riding, and those that are may
not be suitable for all types of aggressive riding. Check with your dealer or thebicycle’s manufacturer about the suitability of your bicycle before engaging in
extreme riding.
When riding fast down hill, you can reach speeds achieved by motorcycles,
and therefore face similar hazards and risks. Have your bicycle and equipment
carefully inspected by a qualified mechanic and be sure it is in perfect condition.
Consult with expert riders, area site personnel and race officials on conditions
and equipment advisable at the site where you plan to ride. Wear appropriate
safety gear, including an approved full face helmet, full finger gloves, and bodyarmor. Ultimately, it is your responsibility to have proper equipment and to be
familiar with course conditions.
WARNING: Although many catalogs, advertisements and articles
about bicycling depict riders engaged in extreme riding, this activity
is extremely dangerous, increases your risk of injury or death, andincreases the severity of any injury. Remember that the action depicted isbeing performed by professionals with many years of training andexperience. Know your limits and always wear a helmet and otherappropriate safety gear. Even with state-of-the-art protective safety gear,
you could be seriously injured or killed when jumping, stunt riding, riding
downhill at speed or in competition.
10

WARNING: Bicycles and bicycle parts have limitations with regard tostrength and integrity, and this type of riding can exceed thoselimitations or dramatically reduce the length of their safe use.
We recommend against this type of riding because of the increased risks; but
if you choose to take the risk, at least:• Take lessons from a competent instructor first• Start with easy learning exercises and slowly develop your skills before trying
more difficult or dangerous riding• Use only designated areas for stunts, jumping, racing or fast downhill riding• Wear a full face helmet, safety pads and other safety gear
• Understand and recognize that the stresses imposed on your bike by thiskind of activity may break or damage parts of the bicycle and void the warranty• Take your bicycle to your dealer if anything breaks or bends. Do not ride yourbicycle when any part is damaged.
If you ride downhill at speed, do stunt riding or ride in competition, know thelimits of your skill and experience. Ultimately, avoiding injury is your responsibility.

G. `Changing Components or Adding Accessories

There are many components and accessories available to enhance the
comfort, performance and appearance of your bicycle. However, if you change
components or add accessories, you do so at your own risk. The bicycle’s
manufacturer may not have tested that component or accessory for compatibility,
reliability or safety on your bicycle. Before installing any component or accessory,
including a different size tire, make sure that it is compatible with your bicycle bychecking with your dealer. Be sure to read, understand and follow the instructions
that accompany the products you purchase for your bicycle. See also Appendix
A, p. 35 and B, p. 41.
   WARNING: Failure to confirm compatibility, properly install, operate
and maintain any component or accessory can result in serious
injury or death.
WARNING: Changing the components on your bike with other thangenuine replacement parts may compromise the safety of yourbicycle and may void the warranty. Check with your dealer beforechanging the components on your bike.

3. Fit
NOTE: Correct fit is an essential element of bicycling safety, performanceand comfort. Making the adjustments to your bicycle which result incorrect fit for your body and riding conditions requires experience, skill
and special tools. Always have your dealer make the adjustments on yourbicycle; or, if you have the experience, skill and tools, have your dealer
check your work before riding.
11

WARNING: If your bicycle does
not fit properly, you may lose
control and fall. If your new bikedoesn’t fit, ask your dealer to exchange
it before you ride it.

A. Standover height

1. Diamond frame bicycles
Standover height is the basic elementof bike fit (see ). It is the distance from theground to the top of the bicycle’s frame
at that point where your crotch is whenstraddling the bike. To check for correct
standover height, straddle the bike while
wearing the kind of shoes in which you’ll be riding, and bounce vigorously on
your heels. If your crotch touches the frame, the bike is too big for you. Don’teven ride the bike around the block. A bike which you ride only on paved
surfaces and never take off-road should give you a minimum standover heightclearance of two inches (5 cm). A bike that you’ll ride on unpaved surfaces
should give you a minimum of three inches (7.5 cm) of standover heightclearance. And a bike that you’ll use off road should give you four inches (10 cm)
or more of clearance.
2. Step-through frame bicycles
Standover height does not apply to bicycles with step-through frames. Instead,the limiting dimension is determined by saddle height range. You must be able toadjust your saddle position as described in B without exceeding the limits set by
the height of the top of the seat tube and the ”Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum
Extension” mark on the seat post.

B. Saddle position

Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor in getting the mostperformance and comfort from your bicycle. If the saddle position is not
comfortable for you, see your dealer.
The saddle can be adjusted in three directions:
1. Up and down adjustment. To checkfor correct saddle height (fig. 3):		• sit on the saddle;		• place one heel on a pedal;		• rotate the crank until the pedal withyour heel on it is in the down position andthe crank arm is parallel to the seat tube.
If your leg is not completely straight,
your saddle height needs to be adjusted.
If your hips must rock for the heel to reachthe pedal, the saddle is too high. If your leg
is bent at the knee with your heel on thepedal, the saddle is too low.
Ask your dealer to set the saddle for12your optimal riding position and to show you how tomake this adjustment. If you choose to make yourown saddle height adjustment:• loosen the seat post clamp• raise or lower the seat post in the seat tube
• make sure the saddle is straight fore and aft• re-tighten the seat post clamp to therecommended torque (Appendix D or the
manufacturer’s instructions).
Once the saddle is at the correct height, makesure that the seat post does not project from theframe beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum
Extension” mark (fig. 4).
NOTE: Some bicycles have a sight hole in the seattube, the purpose of which is to make it easy to see
whether the seat post is inserted in the seat tube far
enough to be safe. If your bicycle has such a sighthole, use it instead of the “Minimum Insertion” or“Maximum Extension” mark to make sure the seatpost is inserted in the seat tube far enough to bevisible through the sight hole.
If your bike has an interrupted seat tube, as is
the case on some suspension bikes, you must also
make sure that the seat post is far enough into theframe so that you can touch it through the bottomof the interrupted seat tube with the tip of your finger without inserting your finger
beyond its first knuckle. Also see NOTE above and fig. 5).
WARNING: If your seat post is not inserted in the seat tube as
described in B.1 above, the seat post, binder or even frame may
break, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
2. Front and back adjustment. The saddle can be adjusted forward or back tohelp you get the optimal position on the bike. Ask your dealer to set the saddle
for your optimal riding position and to show you how to make this adjustment.
If you choose to make your own front and back adjustment, make sure that theclamp mechanism is clamping on the straight part of the saddle rails and is nottouching the curved part of the rails, and that you are using the recommended
torque on the clamping fastener(s) (Appendix D or the manufacturer’s
instructions).
3. Saddle angle adjustment. Most people prefer a horizontal saddle; but someriders like the saddle nose angled up or down just a little. Your dealer can adjust
saddle angle or teach you how to do it. If you choose to make your own saddle
angle adjustment and you have a single bolt saddle clamp on your seat post, itis critical that you loosen the clamp bolt sufficiently to allow any serrations on themechanism to disengage before changing the saddle’s angle, and then that theserrations fully re-engage before you tighten the clamp bolt to the recommended
torque (Appendix D or the manufacturer’s instructions).
13

WARNING: When making saddle angle adjustments with a single bolt
saddle clamp, always check to make sure that the serrations on themating surfaces of the clamp are not worn. Worn serrations on theclamp can allow the saddle to move, causing you to lose control and fall.
Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque. Bolts that are too tight
can stretch and deform. Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue.
Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of the bolt, causing you to lose
control and fall.
Note: If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension seat post, thesuspension mechanism may require periodic service or maintenance.
Ask your dealer for recommended service intervals for your suspension
seat post.
Small changes in saddle position can have a substantial effect on
performance and comfort. To find your best saddle position, make only one
adjustment at a time.
WARNING: After any saddle adjustment, be sure that the saddle
adjusting mechanism is properly seated and tightened before riding.
A loose saddle clamp or seat post clamp can cause damage to theseat post, or can cause you to lose control and fall. A correctly tightenedsaddle adjusting mechanism will allow no saddle movement in any
direction. Periodically check to make sure that the saddle adjustingmechanism is properly tightened.
If, in spite of carefully adjusting the saddle height, tilt and fore-and-aft position,
your saddle is still uncomfortable, you may need a different saddle design.
Saddles, like people, come in many different shapes, sizes and resilience. Your
dealer can help you select a saddle which, when correctly adjusted for your bodyand riding style, will be comfortable.
WARNING: Some people have claimed that extended riding with asaddle which is incorrectly adjusted or which does not support yourpelvic area correctly can cause short-termor long-term injury to nerves and blood vessels,or even impotence. If your saddle causes you
pain, numbness or other discomfort, listen to
your body and stop riding until you see yourdealer about saddle adjustment or a different
saddle.

C. Handlebar height and angle

Your bike is equipped either with a “threadless”
stem, which clamps on to the outside of the steerer
tube, or with a “quill” stem, which clamps inside thesteerer tube by way of an expanding binder bolt. If
you aren’t absolutely sure which type of stem yourbike has, ask your dealer.
14

If your bike has a “threadless” stem (fig. 6) your dealer may be able to change
handlebar height by moving height adjustment spacers from below the stem toabove the stem, or vice versa. Otherwise, you’ll have to get a stem of different
length or rise. Consult your dealer. Do not attempt to do this yourself, as it
requires special knowledge.
If your bike has a “quill” stem (fig. 7) you can ask your dealer to adjust thehandlebar height a bit by adjusting stem height.
A quill stem has an etched or stamped mark on its shaft which designates thestem’s “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension”. This mark must not be
visible above the headset.
WARNING: A quill stem’s Minimum Insertion Mark must not be
visible above the top of the headset. If the stem is extended beyond
the Minimum Insertion Mark the stem may break or damage the fork’s
steerer tube, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
WARNING: On some bicycles, changing the stem or stem height canaffect the tension of the front brake cable, locking the front brake orcreating excess cable slack which can make the front brake
inoperable. If the front brake pads move in towards the wheel rim or out
away from the wheel rim when the stem or stem height is changed, thebrakes must be correctly adjusted before you ride the bicycle.
Some bicycles are equipped with an adjustable angle stem. If your bicycle
has an adjustable angle stem, ask your dealer to show you how to adjust it. Do
not attempt to make the adjustment yourself, as changing stem angle may also
require adjustments to the bicycle’s controls.
WARNING: Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque. Bolts thatare too tight can stretch and deform. Bolts that are too loose canmove and fatigue. Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of thebolt, causing you to lose control and fall.
Your dealer can also change the angle of the handlebar or bar end extensions.
   WARNING: An insufficiently tightened stem clamp bolt, handlebar
clamp bolt or bar end extension clamping bolt may compromise
steering action, which could cause you to lose control and fall. Placethe front wheel of the bicycle between your legs and attempt to twist thehandlebar/stem assembly. If you can twist the stem in relation to the front
wheel, turn the handlebars in relation to the stem, or turn the bar end
extensions in relation to the handlebar, the bolts are insufficiently
tightened.

D. Control position adjustments

The angle of the brake and shift control levers and their position on thehandlebars can be changed. Ask your dealer to make the adjustments for you.
If you choose to make your own control lever angle adjustment, be sure to retighten the clamp fasteners to the recommended torque (Appendix D or the15manufacturer’s instructions).

E. Brake reach

Many bikes have brake levers which can be adjusted for reach. If you havesmall hands or find it difficult to squeeze the brake levers, your dealer can either
adjust the reach or fit shorter reach brake levers.
WARNING: The shorter the brake lever reach, the more critical it is tohave correctly adjusted brakes, so that full braking power can beapplied within available brake lever travel. Brake lever travel
insufficient to apply full braking power can result in loss of control, which
may result in serious injury or death.

4. TechIt’s important to your safety, performance and enjoyment to understand how
things work on your bicycle. We urge you to ask your dealer how to do thethings described in this section before you attempt them yourself, and that you
have your dealer check your work before you ride the bike. If you have even theslightest doubt as to whether you understand something in this section of theManual, talk to your dealer. See also Appendix A, B, C and D.

A. Wheels
Bicycle wheels are designed to be removable for easier transportation and for
repair of a tire puncture. In most cases, the wheel axles are inserted into slots,
called “dropouts” in the fork and frame, but some mountain and road bikes use
what is called a “through axle” wheel mounting system.
If you have a mountain or road bike equipped with through axle front orrear wheels, make sure that your dealer has given you the manufacturer’s
instructions, and follow those when installing or removing a through axle
wheel. If you don’t know what a through axle is, ask your dealer.

If you do not have a bicycle with a through-axle wheel mounting system, it will
have wheels secured in one of three ways:
16• A hollow axle with a shaft (“skewer”) running through it which has an
adjustable tension nut on one end and an over-center cam on the other (camaction system, fig.8 a & b)

• A hollow axle with a shaft (“skewer”) running through it which has a nut on
one end and a fitting for a hex key, lock lever or other tightening device on theother (through bolt, fig. 9)• Hex nuts or hex key bolts which are threaded on to or into the hub axle (bolton wheel, fig. 10)

17

Your bicycle may be equipped with a different securing method for the front
wheel than for the rear wheel. Discuss the wheel securing method for yourbicycle with your dealer.
It is very important that you understand the type of wheel securingmethod on your bicycle, that you know how to secure the wheels correctly,
and that you know how to apply the correct clamping force that safely
secures the wheel. Ask your dealer to instruct you in correct wheel removal
and installation, and ask him to give you any available manufacturer’s
instructions.
WARNING: Riding with an improperly secured wheel can allow thewheel to wobble or fall off the bicycle, which can cause serious injury
or death. Therefore, it is essential that you:
1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how to install andremove your wheels safely.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your wheel
in place.
3. Each time, before you ride the bike, check that the wheel is securely
clamped.
The clamping action of a correctly secured wheel must emboss thesurfaces of the dropouts.
1. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices
Most bicycles have front forks which utilize a secondary wheel retention
device to reduce the risk of the wheel disengaging from the fork if the wheel isincorrectly secured. Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correctly
securing your front wheel.
Secondary retention devices fall into two basic categories:a. The clip-on type is a part which the manufacturer adds to the front wheel
hub or front fork.
b. The integral type is molded, cast or machined into the outer faces of thefront fork dropouts.
Ask your dealer to explain the particular secondary retention device on yourbike.
WARNING: Do not remove or disable the secondary retention device.
As its name implies, it serves as a back-up for a critical adjustment. If
the wheel is not secured correctly, the secondary retention device
can reduce the risk of the wheel disengaging from the fork. Removing or
disabling the secondary retention device may also void the warranty.
Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correctly securing
your wheel. Failure to properly secure the wheel can cause the wheel towobble or disengage, which could cause you to loose control and fall,resulting in serious injury or death.
2. Wheels with cam action systems
There are currently two types of over-center cam wheel retention
mechanisms: the traditional over-center cam (fig. 8a) and the cam-and-cup
system (fig. 8b). Both use an over-center cam action to clamp the bike’s wheel inplace. Your bicycle may have a cam-and-cup front wheel retention system and a18

traditional rear wheel cam action system.
a. Adjusting the traditional cam action mechanism (fig. 8a)
The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the over-center cam pushingagainst one dropout and pulling the tension adjusting nut, by way of the skewer,
against the other dropout. The amount of clamping force is controlled by thetension adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping
the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise
while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less thanhalf a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference between safe
clamping force and unsafe clamping force.
WARNING: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp thewheel securely. Holding the nut with one hand and turning the lever
like a wing nut with the other hand until everything is as tight as you
can get it will not clamp a cam action wheel safely in the dropouts. See also
the first WARNING in this Section, p. 18.
b. Adjusting the cam-and-cup mechanism (fig. 8b)
The cam-and-cup system on your front wheel will have been correctly adjusted
for your bicycle by your dealer. Ask your dealer to check the adjustment every
six months. Do not use a cam-and-cup front wheel on any bicycle other thanthe one for which your dealer adjusted it.
3. Removing and Installing wheels
WARNING: If your bike is equipped with a hub brake such as a rearcoaster brake, front or rear drum, band or roller brake; or if it has aninternal gear rear hub, do not attempt to remove the wheel. The
removal and re-installation of most hub brakes and internal gear hubs
requires special knowledge. Incorrect removal or assembly can result inbrake or gear failure, which can cause you to lose control and fall.
CAUTION: If your bike has a disc brake, exercise care in touching therotor or caliper. Disc rotors have sharp edges, and both rotor and caliper
can get very hot during use.
a. Removing a disk brake or rim brake Front Wheel(1) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quick-releasemechanism to increase the clearance between the tire and the brake pads (See
Section 4.C fig. 11 through 15).
(2) If your bike has cam action front wheel retention, move the cam lever fromthe locked or CLOSED position to the OPEN position (figs. 8a & b). If your bikehas through bolt or bolt-on front wheel retention, loosen the fastener(s) a few
turns counter-clockwise using an appropriate wrench, lock key or the integral
lever.
(3) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device, disengage
it. If your front fork has an integral secondary retention device, and a traditional
cam action system (fig. 8a) loosen the tension adjusting nut enough to allow
removing the wheel from the dropouts. If your front wheel uses a cam-and-cup
system, (fig. 8b) squeeze the cup and cam lever together while removing the19wheel. No rotation of any part is necessary with the cam-and-cup system.
You may need to tap the top of the wheel with the palm of your hand torelease the wheel from the front fork.
b. Installing a disk brake or rim brake Front Wheel
CAUTION: If your bike is equipped with a front disk brake, be careful
not to damage the disk, caliper or brake pads when re-inserting thedisk into the caliper. Never activate a disk brake’s control lever unlessthe disk is correctly inserted in the caliper. See also Section 4.C.
(1) If your bike has cam action front wheel retention, move the cam lever sothat it curves away from the wheel (fig. 8b). This is the OPEN position. If yourbike has through bolt or bolt-on front wheel retention, go to the next step.
(2) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the fork
blades so that the axle seats firmly at the top of the fork dropouts. The cam lever,if there is one, should be on rider’s left side of the bicycle (fig. 8a & b). If yourbike has a clip-on type secondary retention device, engage it.
(3) If you have a traditional cam action mechanism: holding the cam leverin the ADJUST position with your right hand, tighten the tension adjusting nut
with your left hand until it is finger tight against the fork dropout (fig. 8a). If you
have a cam-and-cup system: the nut and cup (fig. 8b) will have snapped into therecessed area of the fork dropouts and no adjustment should be required.
(4) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the fork dropouts, andat the same time centering the wheel rim in the fork:
		 (a) With a cam action system, move the cam lever upwards and swing it
into the CLOSED position (fig. 8a & b). The lever should now be parallel to thefork blade and curved toward the wheel. To apply enough clamping force, you
should have to wrap your fingers around the fork blade for leverage, and thelever should leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand.
(b) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the fasteners to the torquespecifications in Appendix D or the hub manufacturer’s instructions.
NOTE: If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever cannot be pushed all theway to a position parallel to the fork blade, return the lever to the OPEN position.
Then turn the tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try
tightening the lever again.
D (6) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the fasteners to the torquespecifications in Appendix D or the hub manufacturer’s instructions.
WARNING: Securely clamping the wheel with a cam action retention
device takes considerable force. If you can fully close the cam lever
without wrapping your fingers around the fork blade for leverage, thelever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, and theserrations on the wheel fastener do not emboss the surfaces of thedropouts, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn the tension
adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again. See also the first
WARNING in this Section, p. 18.
(6) If you disengaged the brake quick-release mechanism in 3. a. (1) above,20

re-engage it to restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance.
(7) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears thebrake pads; then squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the brakes areoperating correctly.
c. Removing a disk brake or rim brake Rear Wheel(1) If you have a multi-speed bike with a derailleur gear system: shift the rear
derailleur to high gear (the smallest, outermost rear sprocket).
		If you have an internal gear rear hub, consult your dealer or the hub
manufacturer’s instructions before attempting to remove the rear wheel.
		If you have a single-speed bike with rim or disk brake, go to step (4) below.
(2) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quick-releasemechanism to increase the clearance between the wheel rim and the brake pads
(see Section 4.C, figs. 11 through 15).
(3) On a derailleur gear system, pull the derailleur body back with your righthand.
(4) With a cam action mechanism, move the quick-release lever to the
OPEN position (fig. 8b). With a through bolt or bolt on mechanism, loosen thefastener(s) with an appropriate wrench, lock lever or integral lever; then push thewheel forward far enough to be able to remove the chain from the rear sprocket.
(5) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and remove it from the rear
dropouts.
d. Installing a disk brake or rim brake Rear Wheel
CAUTION: If your bike is equipped with a rear disk brake, be careful
not to damage the disk, caliper or brake pads when re-inserting thedisk into the caliper. Never activate a disk brake’s control lever unlessthe disk is correctly inserted in the caliper.
(1) With a cam action system, move the cam lever to the OPEN position (seefig. 8 a & b). The lever should be on the side of the wheel opposite the derailleurand freewheel sprockets.
(2) On a derailleur bike, make sure that the rear derailleur is still in its
outermost, high gear, position; then pull the derailleur body back with your righthand. Put the chain on top of the smallest freewheel sprocket.
(3) On single-speed, remove the chain from the front sprocket, so that you
have plenty of slack in the chain. Put the chain on the rear wheel sprocket.
(4) Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts and pull it all the way in to
the dropouts.
(5) On a single speed or an internal gear hub, replace the chain on the
chainring; pull the wheel back in the dropouts so that it is straight in the frame
and the chain has about 1/4 inches of up-and-down play.
(6) With a cam action system, move the cam lever upwards and swing it into
the CLOSED position (fig. 8 a & b). The lever should now be parallel to the seatstay or chain stay and curved toward the wheel. To apply enough clamping force,
you should have to wrap your fingers around the fork blade for leverage, and thelever should leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand.
(7) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the fasteners to the torquespecifications in Appendix D or the hub manufacturer’s instructions.
21

NOTE: If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever cannot be pushed all theway to a position parallel to the seat stay or chain stay, return the lever to the
OPEN position. Then turn the tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter
turn and try tightening the lever again.
WARNING: Securely clamping the wheel with a cam action retention
device takes considerable force. If you can fully close the cam lever
without wrapping your fingers around the seat stay or chain stay forleverage, the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand,
and the serrations on the wheel fastener do not emboss the surfaces of thedropouts, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn the tension
adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again. See also the first
WARNING in this Section, p. 18.
(8) If you disengaged the brake quick-release mechanism in 3. c. (2) above,
re-engage it to restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance.
(9) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears thebrake pads; then squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the brakes areoperating correctly.

B. Seat post cam action clamp

Some bikes are equipped with a cam action seat post binder. The seat post
cam action binder works exactly like the traditional wheel cam action fastener(Section 4.A.2) While a cam action binder looks like a long bolt with a lever on
one end and a nut on the other, the binder uses an over-center cam action to
firmly clamp the seat post (see fig. 8a).
WARNING: Riding with an improperly tightened seat post can allow
the saddle to turn or move and cause you to lose control and fall.
Therefore:
1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how to correctly
clamp your seat post.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your seatpost.
   3.  Before you ride the bike, first check that the seat post is securely
clamped.
Adjusting the seat post cam action mechanism
The action of the cam squeezes the seat collar around the seat post to holdthe seat post securely in place. The amount of clamping force is controlled by thetension adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping
the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise
while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less thanhalf a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference between safe andunsafe clamping force.
WARNING: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the22seat post securely. Holding the nut with one hand and turning the lever likea wing nut with the other hand until everything is as tight as you can get it
will not clamp the seat post safely.
WARNING: If you can fully close the cam lever without wrapping yourfingers around the seat post or a frame tube for leverage, and thelever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, thetension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut
clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.

C. Brakes
There are three general types of bicycle brakes: rim brakes, which operate bysqueezing the wheel rim between two brake pads; disc brakes, which operateby squeezing a hub-mounted disc between two brake pads; and internal hub
brakes. All three can be operated by way of a handlebar mounted lever. On somemodels of bicycle, the internal hub brake is operated by pedaling backwards.
This is called a Coaster Brake and is described in Appendix C.
WARNING:
1. Riding with improperly adjusted brakes, worn brake pads, or
wheels on which the rim wear mark is visible is dangerous and canresult in serious injury or death.
2. Applying brakes too hard or too suddenly can lock up a wheel, which
could cause you to lose control and fall. Sudden or excessive applicationof the front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars, which may result
in serious injury or death.
3.   Some bicycle brakes, such as disc brakes (fig. 11) and  linear-pull
brakes (fig. 12), are extremely powerful. Take extra care in becoming
familiar with these brakes and exercise particular care when using them.
4. Some bicycle brakes are equipped with a brake force modulator, asmall, cylindrical device through which the brake control cable runs andwhich is designed to provide a more progressive application of braking
force. A modulator makes the initial brake lever force more gentle,
progressively increasing force until full force is achieved. If your bike isequipped with a brake force modulator, take extra care in becoming familiar
with its performance characteristics.
5. Disc brakes can get extremely hot with extended use. Be careful not totouch a disc brake until it has had plenty of time to cool.
6. See the brake manufacturer’s instructions for operation and careof your brakes, and for when brake pads must be replaced. If you do nothave the manufacturer’s instructions, see your dealer or contact the brake
manufacturer.
7. If replacing worn or damaged parts, use only manufacturer-approved
genuine replacement parts.
1. Brake controls and features
It’s very important to your safety that you learn and remember which brakelever controls which brake on your bike. Traditionally, in the U.S. the right brakelever controls the rear brake and the left brake lever controls the front brake; but,23

to check how your bike’s brakes are set up, squeeze one
brake lever and look to see which brake, front or rear,engages. Now do the same with the other brake lever.
Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze
the brake levers comfortably. If your hands are too
small to operate the levers comfortably, consult yourdealer before riding the bike. The lever reach may be
adjustable; or you may need a different brake lever
design.
Most rim brakes have some form of quick-releasemechanism to allow the brake pads to clear the tire
when a wheel is removed or reinstalled. When thebrake quick release is in the open position, the brakes
are inoperative. Ask your dealer to make sure that you
understand the way the brake quick release works onyour bike (see figs. 12, 13. 14 & 15) and check eachtime to make sure both brakes work correctly before you
get on the bike.
2. How brakes work
The braking action of a bicycle is a function of thefriction between the braking surfaces. To make sure thatyou have maximum friction available, keep your wheelrims and brake pads or the disk rotor and caliper clean
and free of dirt, lubricants, waxes or polishes.
Brakes are designed to control your speed, notjust to stop the bike. Maximum braking force for eachwheel occurs at the point just before the wheel “locksup” (stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once the tireskids, you actually lose most of your stopping force
and all directional control. You need to practice slowing
and stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel.
The technique is called progressive brake modulation.
Instead of jerking the brake lever to the position where
you think you’ll generate appropriate braking force,squeeze the lever, progressively increasing the braking
force. If you feel the wheel begin to lock up, releasepressure just a little to keep the wheel rotating justshort of lockup. It’s important to develop a feel for theamount of brake lever pressure required for each wheel
at different speeds and on different surfaces. To better
understand this, experiment a little by walking your bikeand applying different amounts of pressure to each brakelever, until the wheel locks.
When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins
to slow, but your body wants to continue at the speed
at which it was going. This causes a transfer of weightto the front wheel (or, under heavy braking, around thefront wheel hub, which could send you flying over thehandlebars).
24

A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake pressure before
lockup; a wheel with less weight will lock up with less brake pressure. So, as
you apply brakes and your weight is transferred forward, you need to shift yourbody toward the rear of the bike, to transfer weight back on to the rear wheel;
and at the same time, you need to both decrease rear braking and increase front
braking force. This is even more important on descents, because descents shiftweight forward.
Two keys to effective speed control and safe stopping are controlling wheel
lockup and weight transfer. This weight transfer is even more pronounced if
your bike has a front suspension fork. Front suspension “dips” under braking,increasing the weight transfer (see also Section 4.F). Practice braking and weighttransfer techniques where there is no traffic or other hazards and distractions.
Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather. It willtake longer to stop on loose surfaces or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced,
so the wheels have less cornering and braking traction and can lock up with lessbrake force. Moisture or dirt on the brake pads reduces their ability to grip. The
way to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly.

D. Shifting gears
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain (see 1. below),
an internal gear hub drivetrain (see 2. below) or, in some special cases, acombination of the two.
1. How a derailleur drivetrain works
If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-changing mechanism willhave:
• a rear cassette or freewheel sprocket cluster• a rear derailleur• usually a front derailleur• one or two shifters• one, two or three front sprockets called chainrings• a drive chain
a. Shifting Gears
There are several different types and styles of shifting controls: levers, twist
grips, triggers, combination shift/brake controls and push-buttons. Ask yourdealer to explain the type of shifting controls that are on your bike, and to show
you how they work.
The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confusing. A downshift is a shift toa “lower” or “slower” gear, one which is easier to pedal. An upshift is a shift
to a “higher” or “faster”, harder to pedal gear. What’s confusing is that what’s
happening at the front derailleur is the opposite of what’s happening at the rear
derailleur (for details, read the instructions on Shifting the Rear Derailleur andShifting the Front Derailleur below). For example, you can select a gear which
will make pedaling easier on a hill (make a downshift) in one of two ways: shift
the chain down the gear “steps” to a smaller gear at the front, or up the gear
“steps” to a larger gear at the rear. So, at the rear gear cluster, what is called a25

downshift looks like an upshift. The way to keep things straight is to rememberthat shifting the chain in towards the centerline of the bike is for accelerating
and climbing and is called a downshift. Moving the chain out or away from thecenterline of the bike is for speed and is called an upshift.
Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle derailleur system design
requires that the drive chain be moving forward and be under at least sometension. A derailleur will shift only if you are pedaling forward.
CAUTION: Never move the shifter while pedaling backward, norpedal backwards immediately after having moved the shifter. This
could jam the chain and cause serious damage to the bicycle.
b. Shifting the Rear Derailleur
The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter.
The function of the rear derailleur is to move the drive chain from one gear
sprocket to another. The smaller sprockets on the gear cluster produce higher
gear ratios. Pedaling in the higher gears requires greater pedaling effort, buttakes you a greater distance with each revolution of the pedal cranks. The larger
sprockets produce lower gear ratios. Using them requires less pedaling effort,
but takes you a shorter distance with each pedal crank revolution. Moving thechain from a smaller sprocket of the gear cluster to a larger sprocket results in adownshift. Moving the chain from a larger sprocket to a smaller sprocket results
in an upshift. In order for the derailleur to move the chain from one sprocket toanother, the rider must be pedaling forward.
c. Shifting the Front Derailleur:The front derailleur, which is controlled by the left shifter, shifts the chain
between the larger and smaller chainrings. Shifting the chain onto a smaller
chainring makes pedaling easier (a downshift). Shifting to a larger chainring
makes pedaling harder (an upshift).
d. Which gear should I be in?
The combination of largest rear and smallest front gears (fig. 16) is for the
steepest hills. The smallest rear and largest front combination is for the greatest
speed. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the “startinggear” which is right for your level ofability — a gear which is hard enoughfor quick acceleration but easy enoughto let you start from a stop without
wobbling — and experiment withupshifting and downshifting to get afeel for the different gear combinations.
At first, practice shifting where there
are no obstacles, hazards or othertraffic, until you’ve built up yourconfidence. Learn not to use either
the “smallest to smallest” or “largest tolargest” gear combinations because
they may cause unacceptable stresson the drive train. Learn to anticipate
26

the need to shift, and shift to a lower gear before the hill gets too steep. If you
have difficulties with shifting, the problem could be mechanical adjustment. Seeyour dealer for help.
WARNING: Never shift a derailleur onto the largest or the smallest
sprocket if the derailleur is not shifting smoothly. The derailleur may
be out of adjustment and the chain could jam, causing you to lose
control and fall.
e. What if it won’t shift gears?
If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails to result in a smooth shift tothe next gear chances are that the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take the biketo your dealer to have it adjusted.
2. How an internal gear hub drivetrain works
If your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, the gear changing
mechanism will consist of:• a 3, 5, 7, 8, 12 speed or possibly an infinitely variable internal gear hub• one, or sometimes two shifters• one or two control cables• one front sprocket called a chainring• a drive chain
a. Shifting internal gear hub gears
Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a matter of moving theshifter to the indicated position for the desired gear ratio. After you have moved
the shifter to the gear position of your choice, ease the pressure on the pedals
for an instant to allow the hub to complete the shift.
b. Which gear should I be in?
The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills. The numericallylargest gear is for the greatest speed.
Shifting from an easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to a harder, “faster” gear (like 2 or
3) is called an upshift. Shifting from a harder, “faster” gear to an easier, “slower”
gear is called a downshift. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead,find the “starting gear” for the conditions — a gear which is hard enough for quick
acceleration but easy enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling — andexperiment with upshifting and downshifting to get a feel for the different gears.
At first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or other traffic,
until you’ve built up your confidence. Learn to anticipate the need to shift, andshift to a lower gear before the hill gets too steep. If you have difficulties withshifting, the problem could be mechanical adjustment. See your dealer for help.
c. What if it won’t shift gears?
If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails to result in a smooth shift tothe next gear chances are that the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take the biketo your dealer to have it adjusted.

E.Pedals
1. Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the front wheel when you turn the27handlebars to steer while a pedal is in the forwardmost position. This is common
on small-framed bicycles, and is avoided by keeping the inside pedal up and theoutside pedal down when making sharp turns. On any bicycle, this technique will
also prevent the inside pedal from striking the ground in a turn.
WARNING: Toe Overlap could cause you to lose control and fall. Ask
your dealer to help you determine if the combination of frame size,
crank arm length, pedal design and shoes you will use results inpedal overlap. Whether you have overlap or not, you must keep the insidepedal up and the outside pedal down when making sharp turns.
2. Some bicycles come equipped with pedals that have sharp and potentially
dangerous surfaces. These surfaces are designed to add safety by increasing
grip between the rider’s shoe and the pedal. If your bicycle has this type of highperformance pedal, you must take extra care to avoid serious injury from thepedals’ sharp surfaces. Based on your riding style or skill level, you may prefera less aggressive pedal design, or chose to ride with shin pads. Your dealer canshow you a number of options and make suitable recommendations.
3. Toeclips and straps are a means to keep feet correctly positioned andengaged with the pedals. The toeclip positions the ball of the foot over the pedal
spindle, which gives maximum pedaling power. The toe strap, when tightened,
keeps the foot engaged throughout the rotation cycle of the pedal. While toeclips
and straps give some benefit with any kind of shoe, they work most effectively
with cycling shoes designed for use with toeclips. Your dealer can explain how
toeclips and straps work. Shoes with deep treaded soles or welts which mightmake it more difficult for you to insert or remove your foot should not be usedwith toeclips and straps.
WARNING: Getting into and out of pedals with toeclips and straps
requires skill which can only be acquired with practice. Until it
becomes a reflex action, the technique requires concentration which
can distract your attention and cause you to lose control and fall. Practicethe use of toeclips and straps where there are no obstacles, hazards ortraffic. Keep the straps loose, and don’t tighten them until your techniqueand confidence in getting in and out of the pedals warrants it. Never ride intraffic with your toe straps tight.
4. Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in pedals”) are another means tokeep feet securely in the correct position for maximum pedaling efficiency. They
have a plate, called a “cleat,” on the sole of the shoe, which clicks into a mating
spring-loaded fixture on the pedal. They only engage or disengage with a very
specific motion which must be practiced until it becomes instinctive. Cliplesspedals require shoes and cleats which are compatible with the make and model
pedal being used.
Many clipless pedals are designed to allow the rider to adjust the amount offorce needed to engage or disengage the foot. Follow the pedal manufacturer’s
instructions, or ask your dealer to show you how to make this adjustment. Use
the easiest setting until engaging and disengaging becomes a reflex action, but
always make sure that there is sufficient tension to prevent unintended release of28

your foot from the pedal.
WARNING: Clipless pedals are intended for use with shoes
specifically made to fit them and are designed to firmly keep the footengaged with the pedal. Do not use shoes which do not engage thepedals correctly.
Practice is required to learn to engage and disengage the foot safely. Until
engaging and disengaging the foot becomes a reflex action, the techniquerequires concentration which can distract your attention and cause you to lose
control and fall. Practice engaging and disengaging clipless pedals in a place
where there are no obstacles, hazards or traffic; and be sure to follow thepedal manufacturer’s setup and service instructions. If you do not have the
manufacturer’s instructions, see your dealer or contact the manufacturer.

F. Bicycle Suspension

Many bicycles are equipped with suspension systems. There are manydifferent types of suspension systems — too many to deal with individually inthis Manual. If your bicycle has a suspension system of any kind, be sure toread and follow the suspension manufacturer’s setup and service instructions. If
you do not have the manufacturer’s instructions, see your dealer or contact the
manufacturer.
WARNING: Failure to maintain, check and properly adjust thesuspension system may result in suspension malfunction, which may
cause you to lose control and fall.
If your bike has suspension, the increased speed you may develop also
increases your risk of injury. For example, when braking, the front of a suspended
bike dips. You could lose control and fall if you do not have experience with thissystem. Learn to handle your suspension system safely. See also Section 4.C.
WARNING: Changing suspension adjustment can change thehandling and braking characteristics of your bicycle. Never changesuspension adjustment unless you are thoroughly familiar with thesuspension system manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations,and always check for changes in the handling and braking characteristicsof the bicycle after a suspension adjustment by taking a careful test ride ina hazard-free area.
Suspension can increase control and comfort by allowing the wheels to better
follow the terrain. This enhanced capability may allow you to ride faster; but
you must not confuse the enhanced capabilities of the bicycle with your own
capabilities as a rider. Increasing your skill will take time and practice. Proceed
carefully until you have learned to handle the full capabilities of your bike.
   WARNING: Not all bicycles can be safely retrofitted with some typesof suspension systems. Before retrofitting a bicycle with any
suspension, check with the bicycle’s manufacturer to make sure that29

what you want to do is compatible with the bicycle’s design. Failing to doso can result in catastrophic frame failure.

G. Tires and Tubes
1. TiresBicycle tires are available in many designs and specifications, ranging fromgeneral-purpose designs to tires designed to perform best under very specificweather or terrain conditions. If, once you’ve gained experience with your new
bike, you feel that a different tire might better suit your riding needs, your dealer
can help you select the most appropriate design.
The size, pressure rating, and on some high-performance tires the specificrecommended use, are marked on the sidewall of the tire (see fig. 17). The partof this information which is most important to you is Tire Pressure. But somewheel rim manufacturers also specify maximum tire pressure with a label on therim.
   WARNING:  Never inflate atire beyond the maximum
pressure marked on thetire’s sidewall or the wheel rim. If
the maximum pressure rating for
the wheel rim is lower than the
maximup pressure shown on thetire, always use the lower rating.
Exceeding the recommended
maximum pressure may blow
the tire off the rim or dmage thewheel rim, which could cause
damage to the bike and injury to
the rider and bystanders.
The best and safest way to inflate a bicycle tire to the correct pressure is witha bicycle pump which has a built-in pressure gauge.
WARNING: There is a safety risk in using gas station air hoses orother air compressors. They are not made for bicycle tires. They
move a large volume of air very rapidly, and will raise the pressure inyour tire very rapidly, which could cause the tube to explode.
Tire pressure is given either as maximum pressure or as a pressure range.
How a tire performs under different terrain or weather conditions depends largely
on tire pressure. Inflating the tire to near its maximum recommended pressure
gives the lowest rolling resistance; but also produces the harshest ride. Highpressures work best on smooth, dry pavement.
Very low pressures, at the bottom of the recommended pressure range, givethe best performance on smooth, slick terrain such as hard-packed clay, and on
deep, loose surfaces such as deep, dry sand.
Tire pressure that is too low for your weight and the riding conditions cancause a puncture of the tube by allowing the tire to deform sufficiently to pinch30

the inner tube between the rim and the riding surface.
CAUTION: Pencil type automotive tire gauges can be inaccurate andshould not be relied upon for consistent, accurate pressure readings.
Instead, use a high quality dial gauge.
Ask your dealer to recommend the best tire pressure for the kind of riding you
will most often do, and have the dealer inflate your tires to that pressure. Then,check inflation as described in Section 1.C so you’ll know how correctly inflated
tires should look and feel when you don’t have access to a gauge. Some tires
may need to be brought up to pressure every week or two, so it is important tocheck your tire pressures before every ride.
Some special high-performance tires have unidirectional treads: their tread
pattern is designed to work better in one direction than in the other. The sidewall
marking of a unidirectional tire will have an arrow showing the correct rotation
direction. If your bike has unidirectional tires, be sure that they are mounted torotate in the correct direction.
2. Tire Valves
There are primarily two kinds of bicycle tire valves: The Schraeder Valve and
the Presta Valve. The bicycle pump you use must have the fitting appropriate to
the valve stems on your bicycle.
The Schraeder valve (fig. 18a) is like the valve on a car tire. To
inflate a Schraeder valve tire, remove the valve cap and clamp thepump fitting onto the end of the valve stem. To let air out of a Schraeder
valve, depress the pin in the end of the valve stem with the end of a key
or other appropriate object.
The Presta valve (fig. 18b) has a narrower diameter and is only found on
bicycle tires. To inflate a Presta valve tire using a Presta headed bicycle pump,remove the valve cap; unscrew (counterclockwise) the valve stem locknut; and push down on the valve stem to free it up. Then push the pumphead on to the valve head, and inflate. To inflate a Presta valve with a
Schraeder pump fitting, you’ll need a Presta adapter (available at yourbike shop) which screws on to the valve stem once you’ve freed up thevalve. The adapter fits into the Schraeder pump fitting. Close the valve
after inflation. To let air out of a Presta valve, open up the valve stem
lock nut and depress the valve stem.
WARNING: We highly recommend that you carry a spare inner tube
when you ride your bike, unless the bike is fitted with tubeless tires.
Patching a tube is an emergency repair. If you do not apply the patch
correctly or apply several patches, the tube can fail, resulting in possible
tube failure, which could cause you to loose control and fall. Replace apatched tube as soon as possible.

5. Service
WARNING: Technological advances have made bicycles and bicycle
components more complex, and the pace of innovation is increasing.
31

It is impossible for this manual to provide all the information required toproperly repair and/or maintain your bicycle. In order to help minimize thechances of an accident and possible injury, it is critical that you have any
repair or maintenance which is not specifically described in this manual
performed by your dealer. Equally important is that your individual
maintenance requirements will be determined by everything from yourriding style to geographic location. Consult your dealer for help in
determining your maintenance requirements.
WARNING: Many bicycle service and repair tasks require special
knowledge and tools. Do not begin any adjustments or service on
your bicycle until you have learned from your dealer how to properly
complete them. Improper adjustment or service may result in damage tothe bicycle or in an accident which can cause serious injury or death.
If you want to learn to do major service and repair work on your bike:
1. Ask your dealer for copies of the manufacturer’s installation and service
instructions for the components on your bike, or contact the component
manufacturer.
2. Ask your dealer to recommend a book on bicycle repair.
3. Ask your dealer about the availability of bicycle repair courses in your area.
We recommend that you ask your dealer to check the quality of your work thefirst time you work on something and before you ride the bike, just to make surethat you did everything correctly. Since that will require the time of a mechanic,
there may be a modest charge for this service.
We also recommend that you ask your dealer for guidance on what spareparts, such as inner tubes, light bulbs, etc. it would be appropriate for you tohave once you have learned how to replace such parts when they require
replacement.

A. Service Intervals

Some service and maintenance can and should be performed by the owner,
and require no special tools or knowledge beyond what is presented in thismanual.
The following are examples of the type of service you should perform yourself.
All other service, maintenance and repair should be performed in a properly
equipped facility by a qualified bicycle mechanic using the correct tools andprocedures specified by the manufacturer.
1. Break-in Period: Your bike will last longer and work better if you break itin before riding it hard. Control cables and wheel spokes may stretch or “seat”
when a new bike is first used and may require readjustment by your dealer. Your
Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C) will help you identify some things thatneed readjustment. But even if everything seems fine to you, it’s best to takeyour bike back to the dealer for a checkup. Dealers typically suggest you bring
the bike in for a 30 day checkup. Another way to judge when it’s time for the
first checkup is to bring the bike in after three to five hours of hard off-road use,
or about 10 to 15 hours of on-road or more casual off-road use. But if you think32

something is wrong with the bike, take it to your dealer before riding it again.
2. Before every ride: Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C)
3. After every long or hard ride; if the bike has been exposed to water or grit;or at least every 100 miles: Clean the bike and lightly lubricate the chain’s rollers
with a good quality bicycle chain lubricant. Wipe off excess lubricant with a lintfree cloth. Lubrication is a function of climate. Talk to your dealer about the best
lubricants and the recommended lubrication frequency for your area.
4. After every long or hard ride or after every 10 to 20 hours of riding:• Squeeze the front brake and rock the bike forward and back. Everything feelsolid? If you feel a clunk with each forward or backward movement of the bike,you probably have a loose headset. Have your dealer check it.
• Lift the front wheel off the ground and swing it from side to side. Feelsmooth? If you feel any binding or roughness in the steering, you may have atight headset. Have your dealer check it.
• Grab one pedal and rock it toward and away from the centerline of the bike;then do the same with the other pedal. Anything feel loose? If so, have yourdealer check it.
• Take a look at the brake pads. Starting to look worn or not hitting the wheel
rim squarely? Time to have the dealer adjust or replace them.
• Carefully check the control cables and cable housings. Any rust? Kinks?
Fraying? If so, have your dealer replace them.
• Squeeze each adjoining pair of spokes on either side of each wheel between
your thumb and index finger. Do they all feel about the same? If any feel loose,
have your dealer check the wheel for tension and trueness.
• Check the tires for excess wear, cuts or bruises. Have your dealer replacethem if necessary.
• check the wheel rims for excess wear, dings, dents and scratches. Consult
your dealer if you see any rim damage.
• Check to make sure that all parts and accessories are still secure, andtighten any which are not.
• Check the frame, particularly in the area around all tube joints; thehandlebars; the stem; and the seatpost for any deep scratches, cracks or
discoloration. These are signs of stress-caused fatigue and indicate that a part isat the end of its useful life and needs to be replaced. See also Appendix B.
WARNING: Like any mechanical device, a bicycle and its components
are subject to wear and stress. Different materials and mechanisms
wear or fatigue from stress at different rates and have different life
cycles. If a component’s life cycle is exceeded, the component cansuddenly and catastrophically fail, causing serious injury or death to therider. Scratches, cracks, fraying and discoloration are signs of stresscaused fatigue and indicate that a part is at the end of its useful life andneeds to be replaced. While the materials and workmanship of your bicycle
or of individual components may be covered by a warranty for a specified
period of time by the manufacturer, this is no guarantee that the productwill last the term of the warranty. Product life is often related to the kind ofriding you do and to the treatment to which you submit the bicycle. The
bicycle’s warranty is not meant to suggest that the bicycle cannot be
broken or will last forever. It only means that the bicycle is covered subject
to the terms of the warranty. Please be sure to read Appendix A, Intended33

Use of your bicycle and Appendix B, The lifespan of your bike and its
components, starting on page 43.
5. As required: If either brake lever fails the Mechanical Safety Check (Section
1.C), don’t ride the bike. Have your dealer check the brakes.
If the chain won’t shift smoothly and quietly from gear to gear, the derailleur isout of adjustment. See your dealer.
6. Every 25 (hard off-road) to 50 (on-road) hours of riding: Take your bike toyour dealer for a complete checkup.

B. If your bicycle sustains an impact:First, check yourself for injuries, and take care of them as best you can. Seek
medical help if necessary.
Next, check your bike for damage.
After any crash, take your bike to your dealer for a thorough check. Carbon
composite components, including fames, wheels, handlebars, stems, cranksets,brakes, etc. which have sustained an impact must not be ridden until they havebeen disassembled and thoroughly inspected by a qualified mechanic.
See also Appendix B, Lifespan of your bike and its components.
WARNING: A crash or other impact can put extraordinary stress on
bicycle components, causing them to fatigue prematurely.
Components suffering from stress fatigue can fail suddenly andcatastrophically, causing loss of control, serious injury or death.

34

Appendix A
Intended use of your bicycle
WARNING: Understand your bike and its intended use. Choosing thewrong bicycle for your purpose can be hazardous. Using your bikethe wrong way is dangerous.
No one type of bicycle is suited for all purposes. Your retailer can help you pickthe “right tool for the job” and help you understand its limitations. There are many
types of bicycles and many variations within each type. There are many types ofmountain, road, racing, hybrid, touring, cyclocross and tandem bicycles.
There are also bicycles that mix features. For example, there are road/racing
bikes with triple cranks. These bikes have the low gearing of a touring bike, thequick handling of a racing bike, but are not well suited for carrying heavy loads
on a tour. For that purpose you want a touring bike.
Within each of type of bicycle, one can optimize for certain purposes. Visit yourbicycle shop and find someone with expertise in the area that interests you. Do
your own homework. Seemingly small changes such as the choice of tires canimprove or diminish the performance of a bicycle for a certain purpose.
On the following pages, we generally outline the intended uses of various
types of bikes.
Industry usage conditions are generalized and evolving. Consult yourdealer about how you intend to use your bike.

High-Performance Road

CONDITION 1
Bikes designed for riding on a paved surface where the tires
do not lose ground contact.
INTENDED To be ridden on paved roads only.
NOT INTENDED For off-road, cyclocross, or touring withracks or panniers.
TRADE OFF Material use is optimized to deliver bothlight weight and specific performance. You must understand that (1) thesetypes of bikes are intended to give an aggressive racer or competitive cyclist aperformance advantage over a relatively short product life, (2) a less aggressive
rider will enjoy longer frame life, (3) you are choosing light weight (shorter
frame life) over more frame weight and a longer frame life, (4) you are choosing
light weight over more dent resistant or rugged frames that weigh more. All
frames that are very light need frequent inspection. These frames are likely to
be damaged or broken in a crash. They are not designed to take abuse or be arugged workhorse. See also Appendix B.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER

LUGGAGE*TOTAL

lbs / kglbs / kglbs / kg

275 / 125

10 / 4.5

285 / 129

* Seat Bag /Handlebar Bag Only
35

General Purpose Riding

CONDITION 2
Bikes designed for riding Condition 1, plus smooth gravel
roads and improved trails with moderate grades where thetires do not lose ground contact.
INTENDED For paved roads, gravel or dirt roads that are ingood condition, and bike paths.
NOT INTENDED For off-road or mountain bike use, or for
any kind of jumping. Some of these bikes have suspension
features, but these features are designed to add comfort, not off-road capability.
Some come with relatively wide tires that are well suited to gravel or dirt paths.
Some come with relatively narrow tires that are best suited to faster riding on
pavement. If you ride on gravel or dirt paths, carry heavier loads or want moretire durability talk to your dealer about wider tires.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER

LUGGAGETOTAL

lbs / kglbs / kglbs / kg

300 / 136

30 / 14330 / 150

for Touring or Trekking
300 / 136

55 / 25355 / 161

Cross-Country, Marathon, Hardtails

CONDITION 3
Bikes designed for riding Conditions 1 and 2, plus roughtrails, small obstacles, and smooth technical areas, including
areas where momentary loss of tire contact with the groundmay occur. NOT jumping. All mountain bikes without rearsuspension are Condition 3, and so are some lightweight rearsuspension models.
INTENDED For cross-country riding and racing which ranges from mild toaggressive over intermediate terrain (e.g., hilly with small obstacles like roots,
rocks, loose surfaces and hard pack and depressions). Cross-country andmarathon equipment (tires, shocks, frames, drive trains) are light-weight, favoring
nimble speed over brute force. Suspension travel is relatively short since the bikeis intended to move quickly on the ground.
NOT INTENDED For Hardcore Freeriding, Extreme Downhill, Dirt Jumping,
Slopestyle, or very aggressive or extreme riding. No spending time in the air
landing hard and hammering through obstacles.
TRADE OFF Cross-Country bikes are lighter, faster to ride uphill, and more
nimble than All-Mountain bikes. Cross-Country and Marathon bikes trade offsome ruggedness for pedaling efficiency and uphill speed.

36

MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER

LUGGAGE*TOTAL

lbs / kglbs / kglbs / kg

300 / 136

5 /2.3305 / 138

* Seat Bag Only
Front suspension frames manufactured withoriginal equipment seat stay and dropout
rack mounts only

300 / 136

55 / 25355 / 161

All Mountain

CONDITION 4
Bikes designed for riding Conditions 1, 2, and 3, plus roughtechnical areas, moderately sized obstacles, and small jumps.
INTENDED For trail and uphill riding. All-Mountain bicycles
are: (1) more heavy duty than cross country bikes, but lessheavy duty than Freeride bikes, (2) lighter and more nimble
than Freeride bikes,(3) heavier and have more suspension travel than a cross country bike, allowing
them to be ridden in more difficult terrain, over larger obstacles and moderate
jumps, (4) intermediate in suspension travel and use components that fit theintermediate intended use, (5) cover a fairly wide range of intended use, andwithin this range are models that are more or less heavy duty. Talk to your retailer
about your needs and these models.
NOT INTENDED For use in extreme forms of jumping/riding such as hardcore
mountain, Freeriding, Downhill, North Shore, Dirt Jumping, Hucking etc. No large
drop offs, jumps or launches (wooden structures, dirt embankments) requiring
long suspension travel or heavy duty components; and no spending time in the
air landing hard and hammering through obstacles.
TRADE OFF All-Mountain bikes are more rugged than cross country bikes,
for riding more difficult terrain. All-Mountain bikes are heavier and harder to ride
uphill than cross country bikes. All-Mountain bikes are lighter, more nimble andeasier to ride uphill than Freeride bikes. All-Mountain bikes are not as rugged as
Freeride bikes and must not be used for more extreme riding and terrain.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER

LUGGAGE*TOTAL

lbs / kglbs / kglbs / kg

300 / 136

5 / 2.3

305 / 138

* Seat Bag Only37

Gravity, Freeride, and Downhill

CONDITION 5
Bikes designed for jumping, hucking, high speeds, oraggressive riding on rougher surfaces, or landing on flat
surfaces. However, this type of riding is extremely hazardousand puts unpredictable forces on a bicycle which may overload
the frame, fork, or parts. If you choose to ride in Condition 5
terrain, you should take appropriate safety precautions such as
more frequent bike inspections and replacement of equipment.
You should also wear comprehensive safety equipment such as a full-facehelmet, pads, and body armor.
INTENDED For riding that includes the most difficult terrain that only veryskilled riders should attempt.
Gravity, Freeride, and Downhill are terms which describe hardcore mountain,
north shore, slopestyle. This is “extreme” riding and the terms describing it are
constantly evolving.
Gravity, Freeride, and Downhill bikes are: (1) heavier and have moresuspension travel than All-Mountain bikes, allowing them to be ridden in moredifficult terrain, over larger obstacles and larger jumps, (2) the longest in
suspension travel and use components that fit heavy duty intended use. While
all that is true, there is no guarantee that extreme riding will not break a Freeridebike.
The terrain and type of riding that Freeride bikes are designed for is inherently
dangerous. Appropriate equipment, such as a Freeride bike, does not change
this reality. In this kind of riding, bad judgment, bad luck, or riding beyond yourcapabilities can easily result in an accident, where you could be seriously injured,paralyzed or killed.
NOT INTENDED To be an excuse to try anything. Read Section 2. F, p. 10.
		
TRADE OFF Freeride bikes are more rugged than All-Mountain bikes, forriding more difficult terrain. Freeride bikes are heavier and harder to ride uphillthan All-Mountain bikes.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER

LUGGAGE*TOTAL

lbs / kglbs / kglbs / kg

300 / 136

5 / 2.3

305 / 138

* Seat Bag Only

Dirt Jump

CONDITION 5
Bikes designed for jumping, hucking, high speeds, oraggressive riding on rougher surfaces, or landing on flat
surfaces. However, this type of riding is extremely hazardousand puts unpredictable forces on a bicycle which may
overload the frame, fork, or parts. If you choose to ride in38

Condition 5 terrain, you should take appropriate safety precautions such as more
frequent bike inspections and replacement of equipment. You should also wear
comprehensive safety equipment such as a full-face helmet, pads, and bodyarmor.
INTENDED For man-made dirt jumps, ramps, skate parks other predictableobstacles and terrain where riders need and use skill and bike control, rather
than suspension. Dirt Jumping bikes are used much like heavy duty BMX bikes.
A Dirt Jumping bike does not give you skills to jump. Read Section 2. F, p. 10.
NOT INTENDED For terrain, drop offs or landings where large amounts ofsuspension travel are needed to help absorb the shock of landing and help
maintain control.
TRADE OFF Dirt Jumping bikes are lighter and more nimble than Freeridebikes, but they have no rear suspension and the suspension travel in the front ismuch shorter.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER

LUGGAGETOTAL

lbs / kglbs / kglbs / kg

300 / 1360300 / 136

Cyclo-cross

CONDITION 2
Bikes designed for riding Condition 1, plus smooth gravel
roads and improved trails with moderate grades where thetires do not lose ground contact.
INTENDED For cyclo-cross riding, training and racing.
Cyclo-cross involves riding on a variety of terrain and surfaces
including dirt or mud surfaces. Cyclo-cross bikes also work
well for all weather rough road riding and commuting.
NOT INTENDED For off road or mountain bike use, or jumping. Cyclo-crossriders and racers dismount before reaching an obstacle, carry their bike over
the obstacle and then remount. Cyclo-cross bikes are not intended for mountainbike use. The relatively large road bike size wheels are faster than the smaller
mountain bike wheels, but not as strong.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER

LUGGAGETOTAL

lbs / kglbs / kglbs / kg

300 / 136

30 / 13.6

330 / 150

39

Road Tandems

CONDITION 1
Bikes designed for riding on a paved surface where the tires
do not lose ground contact.
INTENDED Are designed to be ridden on paved roads only.
They are not designed for mountain biking or off-road use.
NOT INTENDED Road tandem should not be taken off-road
or used as a mountain tandem.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER

LUGGAGETOTAL

lbs / kglbs / kglbs / kg

500 / 227

75 / 34575 / 261

Mountain Tandems

CONDITION 2
Bikes designed for riding Condition 1, plus smooth gravel
roads and improved trails with moderate grades where thetires do not lose ground contact.
INTENDED The challenges of mountain biking are obvious.
The added challenges of tandem riding mean that you should
limit off-road tandem riding to easy-moderate terrain.
NOT INTENDED For very aggressive mountain bike riding. Mountain tandems
are most definitely NOT for Downhill, Freeriding, North Shore. Choose terrain
with the abilities of both the Tandem’s captain and stoker in mind.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER

LUGGAGETOTAL

lbs / kglbs / kglbs / kg

500 / 227

75 / 34575 / 261

40

Appendix B
The lifespan of your bike and its components
1. Nothing Lasts Forever, Including Your Bike.
When the useful life of your bike or its components is over, continued use ishazardous.
Every bicycle and its component parts have a finite, limited useful life. The
length of that life will vary with the construction and materials used in theframe and components; the maintenance and care the frame and components
receive over their life; and the type and amount of use to which the frame andcomponents are subjected. Use in competitive events, trick riding, ramp riding,jumping, aggressive riding, riding on severe terrain, riding in severe climates,
riding with heavy loads, commercial activities and other types of non-standard
use can dramatically shorten the life of the frame and components. Any one or a
combination of these conditions may result in an unpredictable failure.
All aspects of use being identical, lightweight bicycles and their components
will usually have a shorter life than heavier bicycles and their components. In
selecting a lightweight bicycle or components you are making a tradeoff, favoring
the higher performance that comes with lighter weight over longevity. So, If you
choose lightweight, high performance equipment, be sure to have it inspected
frequently.
You should have your bicycle and its components checked periodically by
your dealer for indicators of stress and/or potential failure, including cracks,
deformation, corrosion, paint peeling, dents, and any other indicators of potential
problems, inappropriate use or abuse. These are important safety checks andvery important to help prevent accidents, bodily injury to the rider and shortened
product life.

2. Perspective

Today’s high-performance bicycles require frequent and careful inspection
and service. In this Appendix we try to explain some underlying material sciencebasics and how they relate to your bicycle. We discuss some of the trade-offs
made in designing your bicycle and what you can expect from your bicycle; andwe provide important, basic guidelines on how to maintain and inspect it. We
cannot teach you everything you need to know to properly inspect and service
your bicycle; and that is why we repeatedly urge you to take your bicycle to yourdealer for professional care and attention.
WARNING: Frequent inspection of your bike is important to yoursafety. Follow the Mechanical Safety Check in Section 1.C of thisManual before every ride.
Periodic, more detailed inspection of your bicycle is important. How
often this more detailed inspection is needed depends upon you.
You, the rider/owner, have control and knowledge of how often you
use your bike, how hard you use it and where you use it. Because yourdealer cannot track your use, you must take responsibility for periodicallybringing your bike to your dealer for inspection and service. Your
dealer will help you decide what frequency of inspection and service is41

appropriate for how and where you use your bike.
For your safety, understanding and communication with your dealer, weurge you to read this Appendix in its entirety. The materials used to makeyour bike determine how and how frequently to inspect.
Ignoring this WARNING can lead to frame, fork or other component
failure, which can result in serious injury or death.
A. Understanding metals
Steel is the traditional material for building bicycle frames. It has goodcharacteristics, but in high performance bicycles, steel has been largely replacedby aluminum and some titanium. The main factor driving this change is interestby cycling enthusiasts in lighter bicycles.
Properties of Metals
Please understand that there is no simple statement that can be made thatcharacterizes the use of different metals for bicycles. What is true is how themetal chosen is applied is much more important than the material alone. One
must look at the way the bike is designed, tested, manufactured, supported alongwith the characteristics of the metal rather than seeking a simplistic answer.
Metals vary widely in their resistance to corrosion. Steel must be protected
or rust will attack it. Aluminum and Titanium quickly develop an oxide film that
protects the metal from further corrosion. Both are therefore quite resistant tocorrosion. Aluminum is not perfectly corrosion resistant, and particular care must
be used where it contacts other metals and galvanic corrosion can occur.
Metals are comparatively ductile. Ductile means bending, buckling andstretching before breaking. Generally speaking, of the common bicycle framebuilding materials steel is the most ductile, titanium less ductile, followed byaluminum.
Metals vary in density. Density is weight per unit of material. Steel weighs 7.8
grams/cm3 (grams per cubic centimeter), titanium 4.5 grams/cm3, aluminum 2.75
grams/cm3. Contrast these numbers with carbon fiber composite at 1.45 grams/
cm3.
Metals are subject to fatigue. With enough cycles of use, at high enough loads,
metals will eventually develop cracks that lead to failure. It is very important thatyou read The basics of metal fatigue below.
Let’s say you hit a curb, ditch, rock, car, another cyclist or other object. At any
speed above a fast walk, your body will continue to move forward, momentum
carrying you over the front of the bike. You cannot and will not stay on the bike,and what happens to the frame, fork and other components is irrelevant to what
happens to your body.
What should you expect from your metal frame? It depends on many complex
factors, which is why we tell you that crashworthiness cannot be a design criteria.
With that important note, we can tell you that if the impact is hard enough the forkor frame may be bent or buckled. On a steel bike, the steel fork may be severely
bent and the frame undamaged. Aluminum is less ductile than steel, but you can
expect the fork and frame to be bent or buckled. Hit harder and the top tube may
be broken in tension and the down tube buckled. Hit harder and the top tube may
be broken, the down tube buckled and broken, leaving the head tube and fork
separated from the main triangle.
When a metal bike crashes, you will usually see some evidence of this ductility42in bent, buckled or folded metal.
It is now common for the main frame to be made of metal and the fork ofcarbon fiber. See Section B, Understanding composites below. The relative
ductility of metals and the lack of ductility of carbon fiber means that in a crash
scenario you can expect some bending or bucking in the metal but none in the
carbon. Below some load the carbon fork may be intact even though the frame isdamaged. Above some load the carbon fork will be completely broken.
The basics of metal fatigue
Common sense tells us that nothing that is used lasts forever. The more you
use something, and the harder you use it, and the worse the conditions you use itin, the shorter its life.
Fatigue is the term used to describe accumulated damage to a part caused byrepeated loading. To cause fatigue damage, the load the part receives must be
great enough. A crude, often-used example is bending a paper clip back and forth(repeated loading) until it breaks. This simple definition will help you understandthat fatigue has nothing to do with time or age. A bicycle in a garage does not
fatigue. Fatigue happens only through use.
So what kind of “damage” are we talking about? On a microscopic level, acrack forms in a highly stressed area. As the load is repeatedly applied, the crack
grows. At some point the crack becomes visible to the naked eye. Eventually it
becomes so large that the part is too weak to carry the load that it could carrywithout the crack. At that point there can be a complete and immediate failure of
the part.
One can design a part that is so strong that fatigue life is nearly infinite. Thisrequires a lot of material and a lot of weight. Any structure that must be lightand strong will have a finite fatigue life. Aircraft, race cars, motorcycles all haveparts with finite fatigue lives. If you wanted a bicycle with an infinite fatigue life,
it would weigh far more than any bicycle sold today. So we all make a tradeoff:
the wonderful, lightweight performance we want requires that we inspect thestructure.
What to look for• ONCE A CRACKS STARTS IT CAN GROW AND
GROW FAST. Think about the crack as forming a pathway to failure. This means that any crack is potentially
dangerous and will only become more dangerous.

SIMPLE RULE 1 : If you findcrack, replace the part.

• CORROSION SPEEDS DAMAGE. Cracks grow more
quickly when they are in a corrosive environment. Think
about the corrosive solution as further weakening andextending the crack.

SIMPLE RULE 2 : Clean
your bike, lubricate your bike,protect your bike from salt,
remove any salt as soon as
you can.

• STAINS AND DISCOLORATION CAN OCCUR NEARA CRACK. Such staining may be a warning sign that acrack exists.

SIMPLE RULE 3 : Inspect andinvestigate any staining to see
if it is associated with a crack.

43

• SIGNIFICANT SCRATCHES, GOUGES, DENTS
OR SCORING CREATE STARTING POINTS FORCRACKS. Think about the cut surface as a focal point
for stress (in fact engineers call such areas “stress risers,” areas where the stress is increased). Perhaps you
have seen glass cut? Recall how the glass was scoredand then broke on the scored line.

SIMPLE RULE 4 : Do notscratch, gouge or score any
surface. If you do, pay frequent attention to this area or
replace the part.

• SOME CRACKS (particularly larger ones) MAY MAKE
CREAKING NOISE AS YOU RIDE. Think about such anoise as a serious warning signal. Note that a wellmaintained bicycle will be very quiet and free of creaks
and squeaks.

SIMPLE RULE 5 : Investigate and find the source ofany noise. It may not a be a
crack, but whatever is causing the noise should be fixed
promptly.

In most cases a fatigue crack is not a defect. It is a sign that the part has beenworn out, a sign the part has reached the end of its useful life. When your car
tires wear down to the point that the tread bars are contacting the road, thosetires are not defective. Those tires are worn out and the tread bar says “time forreplacement.” When a metal part shows a fatigue crack, it is worn out. The crack
says “time for replacement.”
Fatigue Is Not A Perfectly Predictable Science
Fatigue is not a perfectly predictable science, but here are some generalfactors to help you and your dealer determine how often your bicycle should be
inspected. The more you fit the “shorten product life” profile, the more frequent
your need to inspect. The more you fit the “lengthen product life” profile, the lessfrequent your need to inspect.
Factors that shorten product life:•
Hard, harsh riding style•“Hits”, crashes, jumps, other “shots” to the bike•High mileage•
Higher body weight•
Stronger, more fit, more aggressive rider•
Corrosive environment (wet, salt air, winter road salt, accumulated
sweat)•
Presence of abrasive mud, dirt, sand, soil in riding environment
Factors that lengthen product life:•
Smooth, fluid riding style•
No “hits”, crashes, jumps, other “shots” to the bike•
Low mileage•
Lower body weight•Less aggressive rider•
Non-corrosive environment (dry, salt-free air)•
Clean riding environment

44

WARNING: Do not ride a bicycle or component with any crack, bulge
or dent, even a small one. Riding a cracked frame, fork or component
could lead to complete failure, with risk of serious injury or death.
B. Understanding composites
All riders must understand a fundamental reality of composites. Composite
materials constructed of carbon fibers are strong and light, but when crashed oroverloaded, carbon fibers do not bend, they break.
What Are Composites?
The term “composites” refers to the fact that a part or parts are made up ofdifferent components or materials. You’ve heard the term “carbon fiber bike.” This
really means “composite bike.”
Carbon fiber composites are typically a strong, light fiber in a matrix of plastic,
molded to form a shape. Carbon composites are light relative to metals. Steelweighs 7.8 grams/cm3 (grams per cubic centimeter), titanium 4.5 grams/cm3,
aluminum 2.75 grams/cm3. Contrast these numbers with carbon fiber composite
at 1.45 grams/cm3.
The composites with the best strength-to-weight ratios are made of carbon
fiber in a matrix of epoxy plastic. The epoxy matrix bonds the carbon fibers
together, transfers load to other fibers, and provides a smooth outer surface. The
carbon fibers are the “skeleton” that carries the load.
Why Are Composites Used?
Unlike metals, which have uniform properties in all directions (engineers callthis isotropic), carbon fibers can be placed in specific orientations to optimize
the structure for particular loads. The choice of where to place the carbon fibers
gives engineers a powerful tool to create strong, light bicycles. Engineers may
also orient fibers to suit other goals such as comfort and vibration damping.
Carbon fiber composites are very corrosion resistant, much more so than mostmetals.
Think about carbon fiber or fiberglass boats.
Carbon fiber materials have a very high strength-to-weight ratio.
What Are The Limits Of Composites?
Well designed “composite” or carbon fiber bicycles and components have longfatigue lives, usually better than their metal equivalents.
While fatigue life is an advantage of carbon fiber, you must still regularly
inspect your carbon fiber frame, fork, or components.
Carbon fiber composites are not ductile. Once a carbon structure isoverloaded, it will not bend; it will break. At and near the break, there will berough, sharp edges and maybe delamination of carbon fiber or carbon fiber fabriclayers. There will be no bending, buckling, or stretching.
If You Hit Something Or Have A Crash, What Can You Expect From Your
Carbon Fiber Bike?
Let’s say you hit a curb, ditch, rock, car, other cyclist or other object. At
any speed above a fast walk, your body will continue to move forward, themomentum carrying you over the front of the bike. You cannot and will not45

stay on the bike and what happens to the frame, fork and other components isirrelevant to what happens to your body.
What should you expect from your carbon frame? It depends on many
complex factors. But we can tell you that if the impact is hard enough, the forkor frame may be completely broken. Note the significant difference in behavior
between carbon and metal. See Section 2. A, Understanding metals in thisAppendix. Even if the carbon frame was twice as strong as a metal frame, oncethe carbon frame is overloaded it will not bend, it will break completely.
Inspection of Composite Frame, Fork, and Components
Cracks:
Inspect for cracks, broken, or splintered areas. Any crack is serious. Do notride any bicycle or component that has a crack of any size. Delamination:
Delamination is serious damage. Composites are made from layers offabric. Delamination means that the layers of fabric are no longer bonded
together. Do not ride any bicycle or component that has any delamination.
These are some delamination clues:
1. A cloudy or white area. This kind of area looks different from the ordinary
undamaged areas. Undamaged areas will look glassy, shiny, or “deep,” as if one
was looking into a clear liquid. Delaminated areas will look opaque and cloudy.
2. Bulging or deformed shape. If delamination occurs, the surface shape may
change. The surface may have a bump, a bulge, soft spot, or not be smooth andfair.
3. A difference in sound when tapping the surface. If you gently tap the surface ofan undamaged composite you will hear a consistent sound, usually a hard, sharp
sound. If you then tap a delaminated area, you will hear a different sound, usually
duller, less sharp.
Unusual Noises:
Either a crack or delamination can cause creaking noises while riding. Think
about such a noise as a serious warning signal. A well maintained bicycle will
be very quiet and free of creaks and squeaks. Investigate and ﬁnd the sourceof any noise. It may not be a crack or delamination, but whatever is causing thenoise must be ﬁxed or replaced before riding.
WARNING: Do not ride a bicycle or component with any
delamination or crack. Riding a delaminated or cracked frame, forkor other component could lead to complete failure, with risk ofserious injury or death.
C. Understanding components
It is often necessary to remove and disassemble components in order toproperly and carefully inspect them. This is a job for a professional bicycle
mechanic with the special tools, skills and experience to inspect and service
today’s high-tech high-performance bicycles and their components.
Aftermarket “Super Light” components
Think carefully about your rider proﬁle as outlined above. The more you ﬁt
the “shorten product life” proﬁle, the more you must question the use of superlight components. The more you ﬁt the “lengthen product life” proﬁle, the more46

likely it is that lighter components may be suitable for you. Discuss your needs
and your proﬁle very honestly with your dealer.
Take these choices seriously and understand that you are responsible for thechanges.
A useful slogan to discuss with your dealer if you contemplatechanging components is “Strong, Light, Cheap –pick two.”
Original Equipment components
Bicycle and component manufacturers tests the fatigue life of thecomponents that are original equipment on your bike. This means that they
have met test criteria and have reasonable fatigue life. It does not mean that theoriginal components will last forever. They won’t.

47

48

Appendix C
Coaster Brake
1. How the coaster brake works
The coaster brake is a sealed mechanism which is a part of the bicycle’s rear
wheel hub. The brake is activated by reversing the rotation of the pedal cranks(see fig. 5). Start with the pedal cranks in a nearly horizontal position, with thefront pedal in about the 4 o’clock position, and apply downward foot pressure
on the pedal that is to the rear. About 1/8 turn rotation will activate the brake.
The more downward pressure you apply, the more braking force, up to the point
where the rear wheel stops rotating and begins to skid.
WARNING: Before riding, make sure that the brake is working
properly. If it is not working properly, have the bicycle checked byyour dealer before you ride it.
WARNING: If your bike has only a coaster brake, ride conservatively.
A single rear brake does not have the stopping power of front-andrear brake systems.
2. Adjusting your coaster brake
Coaster brake service and adjustment requires special tools and special
knowledge. Do not attempt to disassemble or service your coaster brake. Take
the bicycle to your dealer for coaster brake service.

49

BICYCLE OWNER’S MANUALADDENDUM (2014)
Section 1: Child Seat Warnings andConsiderations
Parents must always keep in mind that their child’s safety is directly affectedby their cycling abilities. Adding a child carrier to a bicycle substantially modifies
the bike’s stability and changes the way the bicycle handles. Carefully read andfollow the Bicycle Owner’s Manual while assembling a child bicycle carrier,or child trailer, and before using the product for the first time. Keep the Bicycle
Owner’s Manual in a safe place for any future references. Check the local andstate ordinances of the city and country in which the child bicycle carrier is being
used. Never leave the bike parked with an unattended child in the seat.
Never leave a child in the seat when the bicycle is held up only by the stand.
WARNING: Failure to comply with the manufacturer’s instructions
may compromise the safety of the child and of the cyclist and may
result in serious injury or death.
Consult the product manual, product website, bicycle manual, or the bicycle
dealer, for any further information.

Section 1(B): Appropriate Spare Parts When
RidingWhen using your bicycle to travel beyond walking distance from home,consider carrying a basic bicycle repair kit that includes tube and tire patches,a spare inner tube, a small pump, a mini-bicycle tool with common hex wrench
sizes and a chain tool, small first aid kit, some extra money, and a cell phone.
Ask your bicycle dealer if they offer classes that demonstrate basic bicycle repair.

Section 2(B): Use of a Trailer
Some bicycle frames and components are built with performance in mind
rather than towing or carrying capacity, and are not recommended for use withtrailers. If you are unsure, check with your bicycle dealer to see if this is the casewith your bicycle. A bicycle trailer can affect the handling of your bicycle whentraveling down hills or at high speeds. A trailer generally weighs more than racks
and panniers, and can require greater distances to slow down or stop.
When riding with a trailer on your bicycle, it is recommended that the rider
become accustomed to the way the bike handles in an area free fromautomobile traffic before riding on streets and roads.

50Section 3(C): Aero Bar Extensions and the
Effect on Steering Control
Aero bars are designed as an aerodynamic aid for going fast when you arealone or doing a time trial event. However, a rider on aero bar extensions is not
as stable as one on regular handlebars. With your arms on the elbow pads ofaero equipment, any input from uneven road surfaces, hitting debris, or bumps
from other riders is magnified in to the steering of the bike. Your hands areaway from the brakes, and there are times when slight speed adjustments arenecessary and reaching for the handlebars in an emergency situation may take
too long. Your elbows do not have the leverage to control the path of the bike,and a crash is more likely to occur from this loss of control. Do not ride in a groupwith aero bar extensions.
WARNING: Not all handlebars are compatible with aero bar
extensions. Aero bar attachment clamps may put too much stresson lightweight materials resulting in component failure that could
cause serious injury or even death. Check with the handlebar manufacturer,
or consult your bicycle dealer if you are unsure.

Section 4(C): Braking Power ModulatorYour bicycle may be equipped with a Braking Power Modulator. This device
modulates braking power and is mounted midway along the brake cable for thebicycle brake. The braking power modulator is adjustable to provide different
braking powers for different riders or different road conditions. Due to differencesin the riders’ weight, experience, hand-gripping power, preferences, etc., thedesired adjustment varies among various riders. Please consult the techniciansin your shop’s service department if adjustments need to be made of if you would
prefer a demonstration about making adjustments yourself.

Section 4(D): Chain Tensioners
Chain tensioners help remove slack in a chain on a bicycle that does nothave horizontal rear dropouts or track ends, or have multiple gears and use
a derailleur. Horizontal rear dropouts or track ends allow you to slide the wheel
rearward to take slack out of a loose chain. If you are unsure what kind of
dropouts your bicycle has, check with your bicycle dealer. When working withan existing frame not originally designed for single-speed use, some kind of idler
pulley, or simply a short cage rear derailleur MUST be used to take up chain
slack.
WARNING: Riding with a chain that is too loose can cause the chain
to come off and result in a loss of control causing serious injury oreven death.

51Section 4(E): Racing Bicycles andToe Overlap
On some bicycles at low speeds, especially those with smaller frames andfull-sized wheels, and when the handlebars are turned far in one direction or theother, it is possible for the front fender, tire or wheel tire to bump into the rider’s
toe or to the toe clip. You can see if this will be an issue with your bike by placing
one foot on the ground, placing your other foot on the pedal or in the toe clip, andmoving the pedal to the 3 o’clock position. You can then turn the handlebars to
the extremes to see if the front wheel makes contact with the toe of your shoe.
If it does make contact, you may have to make a slight adjustment to yourpedaling habits at very slow speeds.

Section 4(F): Coverage of Rear Suspension
Components and Child Seats
When mounting a child carrier on a bicycle with rear suspension or suspension
seatposts, suspension springs must be covered with a protective sleeve or
rubber boot to prevent the pinching of smaller fingers or skin.

Section 4(G): Tubular Gluing
A tubular tire is made from a tire casing that is then sewn around an innertube. The tubular tire is then glued to a special tubular rim. The tubular system is
not interchangeable with the common “clincher” system. If you are unsure whatkind of tires your bicycle has, check with your bicycle dealer. The safety of therider depends on the best possible gluing procedures. A clean work area and rim
is critical, as is time and patience. The tubular tire system, even when mounted
properly, is still susceptible to failure during use. Every precaution should betaken when bonding the tubular to the rim. If you have never glued a tubular tireto a rim, or do not have the proper equipment to do so, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO
DO IT YOURSELF. Only allow an experienced mechanic to perform the work.
WARNING: Improperly glued tubular tires can come off the rim andresult in a loss of control causing serious injury or even death.

Section 4(G): Maximum Tire Pressure vs.
Maximum Rim Pressure
The maximum tire pressure listed on the sidewall of a bicycle tire may exceed
the maximum tire pressure that the rim is designed to accommodate. Check
with the rim manufacturer or consult your bicycle dealer if you are unsure if
the two components are compatible. If in doubt, do not inflate past the lowest
recommended max tire pressure.

Appendix A
Adding Cargo Racks to Your Bicycle
52Some bicycle frames have front and rear threaded attachment points forluggage racks. If you are unsure, check with your bicycle dealer to see if this is
the case with your bicycle. For carrying more than fifteen (15) pounds of cargo,
it is recommended that riders use a combination of front and rear racks. Studies
have shown that the combination of high-mounted rear panniers, low-mount front
panniers, and a bare minimum of weight in a handlebar bag makes the least
amount of impact on how the bicycle handles. When adding cargo racks to yourbicycle, it is recommended that the rider become accustomed to the way the bikehandles in an area free from automobile traffic before riding on streets and roads.

Appendix B
Advisory Note About Heavy and Intensive Bicycle or
Product Use
WARNING: As with all mechanical components, the bicycle issubjected to wear and high stresses. Different materials andcomponents can react to wear or stress fatigue in different ways.
If the design life of a component has been exceeded, it can suddenly fail,possibly causing injuries to the rider. Any form of crack, scratches orchange of coloring in highly stressed areas indicate that the life of thecomponent has been reached and it should be replaced.
WARNING: Damaged or impacted composite components should
either be returned to either the dealer or manufacturer for inspection.

Appendix B(b)Composite Components and Exposure to High Heat
Warning
Do not allow carbon fiber tubing to become excessively hot. High-performance
epoxy resins, together with oven post curing, are used to make tubing,however at temperatures above approximately 165°F the epoxy can soften
and dramatically reduce strength or otherwise cause the tube to bow or warp.
Epoxy resins are UV light degraded. Excessive UV light has the effect of turning
the exposed epoxy resin into a chalky layer which can then easily fall off,
resulting in exposure of the fibers to the weather. Moisture can then enter the
exposed fibers and cause wicking to the inside of the laminate which further
reduces the laminate’s strength and integrity.
WARNING: Automobile trunk and hitch mount bicycle racks/carriers
can put the bicycle wheels, rims, and/or tires wheels too close to theexhaust system(s). A carbon rim that is placed too close to theexhaust may result in delamination of the carbon composite causing
irreparable damage to the rim. A damaged rim is unsafe to ride and may
cause serious injury or death. Exposure to the exhaust of the vehicle may
also cause the tire to melt and explode as a result. A minimum of 12"
between your exhaust pipe and your carbon wheels is recommended
to prevent any such damage.
53

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