Testing Methods
OEKO‑TEX® LEATHERSTANDARD
Edition 03.2024
OEKO-TEX®
International Association for Research and Testing in
the Field of Textile and Leather Ecology.
国际环保纺织和皮革协会

OEKO-TEX Service GmbH
Genferstrasse 23, CH-8002 Zurich+41 44 501 26 00
www.oeko-tex.com

Testing Methods: OEKO‑TEX® LEATHER STANDARD

Testing procedures for authorization to use the
OEKO-TEX® LEATHER STANDARD mark授权使用 OEKO-TEX® LEATHER STANDARD 标识
的检测程序。

Contents

内容

1
2
3
3.1
3.2
3.3
4
5
6
6.1
7
8

1
2
3
3.1
3.2
3.3
4
5
6
6.1
7
8

pH 值
甲醛
重金属
可萃取重金属
重金属总含量六价铬杀虫剂氯化苯酚塑化剂（邻苯二甲酸酯）硅氧烷有机锡化合物短链和中链氯化石蜡(SCCP & MCCP)

9
10
11
11.1
11.2

全氟和多氟烷基物质（PFAS）
富马酸二甲酯（DMFu）
着色剂
偶氮染料、芳香胺和苯胺
致敏、致癌和其他禁用着色剂

12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19

氯化苯和氯化甲苯多环芳香烃（PAH）
溶剂残留
紫外线稳定剂
禁用阻燃剂
挥发性有机化合物(VOC)、乙二醇、甲酚和氯化溶剂喹啉亚硝胺和亚硝基物质

20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31

烷基酚、烷基酚聚氧乙烯醚
加工防腐剂
N-甲基吡咯烷酮 (NMP)
挥发性化学品释放量
戊二醛
苯酚
双酚类物质
总氟
N-（羟甲基）丙烯酰胺
三聚氰胺
色牢度
气味

9
10
11
11.1
11.2
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31

pH value
Formaldehyde
Heavy metals
Extractable heavy metals
Heavy metal total content
Chromium (VI)
Pesticides
Chlorinated phenols
Phthalates
Siloxanes
Organic tin compounds
Short and medium chained chlorinatedparaffins (SCCP & MCCP)
Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS)
Dimethylfumarate (DMFu)
Colourants
Azo dyes, arylamines and aniline
Allergenic, carcinogenic and other banned
colourants
Chlorinated benzenes and toluenes
Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH)
Solvent residues
UV stabilisers
Banned flame
Volatile organic compounds (VOCs), glycols,cresols and chlorinated solvents
Quinoline
N-nitrosamines and N-nitrosatable
substances
Alkylphenols, Alkylphenol ethoxylates
Process preservative agents
N-Methyl-2-pyrrolidone (NMP)
Emission of volatile chemicals
Glutaraldehyde
PhenolBisphenols
Total fluorine
N-(Hydroxymethyl)acrylamide
Melamine
Colour fastness
Odour

01.04.2024

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General remarks

总论

In case an article, which shall be certified according
to OEKO-TEX® LEATHER STANDARD, contains also textile and non-textile (e.g. metallic) components, these components are tested according to
the conditions and criteria of OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 and the methods used there. For this,please refer to the corresponding documents.

如果根据 OEKO-TEX® LEATHER STANDARD 标准认证的产品还包含纺织品和非纺织品（如金属）组
件，则应根据 OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 的条件
和标准及其规定的方法对这些组件进行检测。 请参阅相关文件。

Abbreviations

缩写• AAS - atom absorption spectrometer• AAS - 原子吸收光谱仪• CI - chemical ionisation• CI - 化学电离

• DAD - diode array detector• DAD - 二极管阵列检测器• EI - electron impact• EI - 电子电离

• FLD - fluorescence detector• FLD - 荧光检测器• IC - ion chromatography• IC - 离子色谱法• ICP - inductively coupled plasma• ICP - 电感耦合等离子体• GC - gas chromatography• GC - 气相色谱法• LC - liquid chromatography• LC - 液相色谱法

• MS - mass spectrometry• MS - 质谱分析法• OES - optical emission spectrometry• OES - 发射光谱法• UV/VIS - ultraviolet-visible• UV/VIS - 紫外-可见分光光度法

1

pH 值

pH value

The pH value is determined according to ISO 4045
using purified water as extraction solution.

根据 ISO 4045 使用纯净水作为提取液测定 pH 值。

2甲醛

Formaldehyde

The determination of free and released formaldehyde is performed according to ISO 17226-1 using
an aqueous extraction followed by DNPH derivatization and HPLC-DAD analysis of the extract.

根据 ISO 17226-1 使用水性提取溶液对游离甲醛和释放甲醛进行测定， 使用 DNPH 衍生化和 HPLC-DAD
对提取物进行分析。

3

Heavy metals

重金属

3.1

Extractable heavy metals

可萃取重金属The heavy metals with exception of chromium (VI)are extracted by use of artificial acidic sweat solution according to ISO 17072-1. The extract is analysed by means of ICP-OES, ICP-MS or AAS. Metallic accessories having a surface refinement or coating are additionally subjected to a further test for
extractable nickel after a pre- treatment (wearand corrosion according to EN 12472:2020, used
for its abrasion medium).

根据 ISO 17072-1 使用人造酸汗液提取除铬(VI)之外的重金属。通过 ICP-OES、ICP-MS 或 AAS 分析提取物。 经过表面细化或具有涂层的金属配饰在预处理（根据 EN 12472:2020 进行的磨损和腐蚀，用作其磨损介质）之后须接受可萃取镍的进一步检测。

3.2

重金属总含量Heavy metal total content

The samples are chemically digested using acids toobtain a clear extract containing the heavy metals

01.04.2024

使用酸对样品进行化学消解以获得含重金属的澄清
提取物，然后通过 ICP-OES、ICP-MS 或 AAS 对其

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which is afterwards analysed by means of ICPOES, ICP-MS or AAS. Different components of thesample, which can be differentiated macroscopically (base material, paints, etc.), are separately digested and analysed. The method is therefore suitable to check the samples for total lead content inreference to the requirement of the American legislation for children’s articles (CPSIA, Consumer
Product Safety Improvement Act).

进行分析。对于能够在宏观上加以区分的不同样品
组件(基础材料，油漆等），分别进行消解和分析。
因此，根据美国儿童用品法规（CPSIA 消费品安全改进法）的要求，该方法适用于检测样品中的总铅
含量。

3.3

六价铬

Chromium (VI)

Whenever possible the examination according to
ISO 17075-2 (determination by means of IC) is performed. When this is not possible, the colorimetric
procedure by means of UV/VIS (ISO 17075-1) is performed, in which 1,5-diphenylcarbazide is oxidized
by Chrom(IV) and a complex is formed which canbe quantified photometrically.

根据 ISO 17075-2（通过离子色谱法测定）进行检
测。如果无法做到这一点，则通过 UV/VIS （ISO17075-1）进行比色测定。在此过程中，1,5-二苯基卡巴肼被铬（IV）氧化，形成一种络合物，可通过
光度法进行定量测定。

4

杀虫剂

Pesticides

Polar and apolar pesticides are extracted by ASE(or Soxhlet) using methanol or acetone. Afterclean-up, extracts are analysed for pesticides with
GC-MS and LC-MS.

极性和非极性农药通过 ASE（或索氏提取法）用甲醇或丙酮萃取。净化后的提取物用 GC-MS 及 LCMS 分析。

5

氯化苯酚

Chlorinated phenols

The tests are performed according to ISO 17070.
The substances are stripped off the leather sample
by steam distillation. After extractive acetylation,
the organic phase is analysed for chlorinated phenols by means of GC-MS or GC-ECD.

根据 ISO 17070 进行测定，物质通过蒸汽蒸馏方式
从皮革样品上提取出来。萃取乙酰化后，通过 GCMS 或 GC-ECD 分析有机相中的氯化苯酚。

6

塑化剂（邻苯二甲酸酯）Phthalates

The test is performed by extraction of the testingmaterial with tetrahydrofuran, followed by precipitation of the polymers with (cyclo)hexane. The extract is analysed by GC-MS.

通过四氢呋喃提取测试物质，后用正己烷沉淀聚合
物来进行测试，提取物通过 GC-MS 分析。

6.1

硅氧烷

Siloxanes

The test is performed by extraction of the testingmaterial with tetrahydrofuran, followed by precipitation of the polymers with (cyclo)hexane. The extract is analysed by GC-MS.

通过四氢呋喃萃取测试材料，然后用（环）己烷沉淀聚合物来进行测试，提取物通过 GC-MS 分析。

7有机锡化合物

Organic tin compounds

The method is based on an extraction of the testingmaterial with an ethanol/acetic acid solution andtropolone followed by derivatisation with sodium
tetraethylborate. The extract is then analysed by
GC-MS.

01.04.2024

该方法基于用乙醇/乙酸溶液及托普隆提取测试物质，后用四乙基硼酸钠产生衍生作用。提取物通过GC-MS 进行分析。

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8短链和中链氯化石蜡(SCCP & MCCP)
Short and medium chained
chlorinated paraffins (SCCP& MCCP)

The method for the determination of the short andmedium chained chlorinated paraffins is based on
an extraction of the testing material with a mix ofdichloromethane/(cyclo)hexane, followed by aclean-up and subsequent analysis with GC-MS. Fora total analysis (sum of short, medium and long
chained chlorinated paraffins) the instrument is operated in the EI mode. CI mode is used for the identification and quantification of the SCCP and MCCP
congeners present in the sample.

在短链和中链氯化石蜡的测定中，用二氯甲烷/（环）己烷混合液对测试材料进行萃取，然后用
GC-MS 进行净化和分析。CI 模式用于定性和定量样
品中存在的短链氯化石蜡和中链氯化石蜡同系物。
仪器在 EI 模式下运行，筛查（分析所有短链、中链和长链氯化石蜡的总量）。

9全氟和多氟烷基物质（PFAS）

Per- and polyfluoroalkyl
substances (PFAS)

The method for the determination of PFAS is basedon an extraction with methanol followed by determination of the PFAS by means of LC-MS and GCMS.

为测定全氟和多氟烷基物质, 测试样品需要使用甲醇萃取，然后用 LC-MS 和 GC-MS 测定全氟和多氟烷
基物质。

10

富马酸二甲酯（DMFu）

Dimethylfumarate (DMFu)

The method is based on an extraction of the samples with acetone. After preconcentration the extracts are analysed with GC-MS.

使用丙酮提取样品。提取物经过预浓缩后，用 GCMS 进行分析。

11

Colourants

着色剂

11.1

Azo dyes, arylamines and aniline

偶氮染料、芳香胺和苯胺

The tests for azo dyes, which may be cleaved intoarylamines with cancerogenic properties, are carried out following the official test methods according to ISO 17234-1 and 17234-2, i.e. samples are defatted and reduced. After liquid-liquid extraction,arylamines are analysed with two chromatographymethods, preferably HPLC-DAD and GC-MS. The
test for the aromatic amine aniline (cleavable fromcolorants as well as for the presence as chemical
residue in free manner) is carried out together withthe analyses of azo dyes.

根据 ISO 17234-1 和 17234-2 的官方测试方法对可裂
解成具有致癌特性的芳香胺偶氮染料进行测试，即对样品进行脱脂和还原处理。经液-液萃取后，使用两种色谱法，推荐使用 HPLC-DAD 及 GC-MS 对芳香胺进行测试分析。芳香胺苯胺（可由着色剂裂解
以及以化学残留物方式的游离存在）的检测可与偶
氮染料分析一起进行。

11.2

致敏、致癌和其他禁用着色剂

Allergenic, carcinogenic andother banned colourants

The identification and quantification of dyestuff
with allergenic and carcinogenic potential, otherbanned dyestuff and pigments and Michler's ketone and base is achieved through a hot acetone
extraction followed by detection with LC-DAD or
LC-MS.

01.04.2024

具有过敏性和致癌性的染料，颜料及米氏酮，米氏
碱的定性和定量测试通过热丙酮萃取，然 后用 LCDAD 或 LC-MS 进行检测

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12Chlorinated benzenes andtoluenes氯化苯和氯化甲苯

The method is based on an ultrasonic bath extraction of the testing materials with dichloromethane.
The extracts are analysed by means of GC-MS.

该测试方法使用二氯甲烷对测试物在超声波浴进行提取，然后通过 GC-MS 分析提取物。

13多环芳香烃（PAH）

Polycyclic aromatichydrocarbons (PAH)

The method is based on extraction of the test samples with toluene. The extracts are analysed with
GC-MS.

该测试方法使用甲苯提取测试物，然后通过 GC-MS
分析提取物。

14

溶剂残留

Solvent residues

The method is based on extraction of the test samples with methanol.The extracts are analysed with
GC-MS.

该测试方法使用甲醇提取测试物。然后通过 GC-MS
分析提取物。

15

紫外线稳定剂

UV stabilisers

The method is based on extraction of samples with
THF or with a dichloromethane-(cyclo)hexane mixture. The extracts are then analysed with LC-DAD,
LC-MS or GC-MS.

该方法采用四氢呋喃或含二氯甲烷-（环）己烷混合
物提取样品。然后用 LC-DAD、LC-MS 或 GC-MS
对提取物进行分析。

16

禁用阻燃剂

Banned flame

The determination of the banned flame retardants
is performed by extraction of the test material withacetone or toluene. The extract is then analysed by
LC-MS and GC-MS.

检测禁用阻燃剂的方法是用丙酮或甲苯萃取测试材料。然后用 LC-MS 及 GC-MS 对提取物进行分析。

17

Volatile organic compounds(VOCs), glycols, cresols andchlorinated solvents

挥发性有机化合物(VOC)、乙二醇、甲酚和氯化溶剂

The sample that is to be analysed for organic volatile compounds, glycols, cresols and chlorinated solvents is baked out by thermodesorption technique.
The released substances are enriched on suitabletrapping material and afterwards analysed by GCMS.

通过热吸附方式进行挥发性有机化合物、乙二醇、
甲酚和氯化溶剂的测试。将释放的物质富集于合适
的捕集材料上，然后采用 GC-MS 进行分析。

18

喹啉Quinoline

The extraction of the samples is achieved by hot
extraction with acetone. The measurement of theof quinoline extracted from the material and is performed in comparison with reference substancesby use of LC-MS or GC-MS.

01.04.2024

通过丙酮热萃取法提取测试材料。使用 LC-MS 或
GC-MS 测量从材料中提取的喹啉含量，并与对照物质进行比较。

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19

亚硝胺和亚硝基物质

N-nitrosamines and Nnitrosatable substances

The N-nitrosamines and N-nitrosatable substances
migrate into a saliva test solution. The N-nitrosatable substances react to N-nitrosamines by acidification. The analysis of the N-nitrosamines and Nnitrosatable substances is done by LC-MS.

亚硝胺和亚硝基物质迁移至唾液测试溶液中。亚硝
基物质通过酸化反应生成亚硝胺。 使用 LC-MS 对亚硝胺和亚硝基物质进行分析。

20

烷基酚、烷基酚聚氧乙烯醚

Alkylphenols, Alkylphenol
ethoxylates

The method is based on extraction of the test samples with methanol in an ultrasonic bath. The extracts are then analysed with LC-MS and/or GCMS.

21

该方法是在超声波浴中用甲醇萃取测试物。然后用LC-MS 和/或 GC-MS 对提取物进行分析。

Process preservative agents 加工防腐剂The process preservative agents are extracted inan ultrasonic bath extraction with acetonitrile. The
filtered extract is then analysed by LC-DAD.

使用乙腈超声浴提取法提取加工防腐剂。然后使用
LC-DAD 分析过滤后的提取物。

22

N-甲基吡咯烷酮 (NMP)

N-Methyl-2-pyrrolidone(NMP)

NMP is extracted from the leather samples in an ultrasonic bath with acetone. An aliquot of the extract is then used for a GC-MS analysis.

使用丙酮超声浴从皮革样品中提取 NMP。然后使用
GC-MS 分析提取物。

23

挥发性化学品释放量Emission of volatile
chemicals

For the determination of emitted volatile chemicals, the methods are based on ISO 16000-3 (formaldehyde) and ISO 16000-6 (VOCs), using an emission chamber according to ISO 16000-9. Formaldehyde is adsorbed on DNPH cartridges, eluted
with acetonitrile and analysed using LC-DAD or
LC-FLD. For VOCs, different adsorbents are used
and analysis is performed by thermal desorption
and GC-MS.

对于挥发性化学品的检测，基于 ISO 16000-3（甲醛）和 ISO 16000-6（挥发性有机化合物）的方法，使用符合 ISO 16000-9 标准的释放舱。甲醛吸
附在 DNPH 试剂盒上，用乙腈溶离，然后使用 LCDAD 或 LC-FLD 进行分析。对于挥发性有机化合物，则使用不同的吸附剂，并通过热脱附技术和
GC-MS 进行分析。

24

戊二醛

Glutaraldehyde

Glutaraldehyde is extracted from the leather samples in the ultrasonic bath with an aqueous solution
and derivatized with DNPH, followed by an analysis
through LC-DAD.

使用水溶液超声浴从皮革样品中提取戊二醛, 并用
DNPH 进行衍生，然后通过 LC-DAD 进行分析。

25

苯酚PhenolThe determination of phenol is performed by extraction of the test material with methanol in an ul-

01.04.2024苯酚的测定是通过在超声波浴中用甲醇提取测试物来进行的。然后使用 LC-FLD 分析提取物。

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trasonic bath. The extract is analysed then by LCFLD.

26

双酚类物质

Bisphenols

The determination of bisphenols is performed byextraction of the test material with THF in an ultrasonication bath followed by a polymer precipitation
with methanol or (cyclo)hexane. The extract is thenanalysed by LC-MS.

测定双酚的方法是在超声浴中用四氢呋喃萃取测试
材料，然后用甲醇或（环）己烷进行聚合物沉淀。
再使用 LC-MS 对提取物进行分析。

27

总氟Total fluorine

The method is based on direct sample combustion
with oxygen. The resulting HF is collected in an absorber solution and can then be analysed for the
fluorine content using IC.

28

该方法基于样品与氧气直接燃烧。产生的氢氟酸被收集到吸收溶液中，然后使用 IC 分析氟含量。

N-（羟甲基）丙烯酰胺N(Hydroxymethyl)acrylamide

The method is based on an extraction of samples
with hot water in an ultrasonic bath. The extract isanalysed by LC-DAD.

在超声波浴中用热水提取测试材料。然后用 LCDAD 对提取物进行分析。

29

三聚氰胺

Melamine

The samples are extracted with detergent solution
in a shaking bath (acc. to Japanese Law 112 / JIS L
1041 – 2011) and the is extract analyzed on LCDAD.

测试物在振荡水浴中用洗涤剂溶液提取（根据日本
法律 112 / JIS L 1041 - 2011），提取物在 LC-DAD 上
进行分析。

30

色牢度

Colour fastness

In all colour fastness tests cited below only the fastness grades with respect to staining of the adjacentfabrics are determined. The basic methods for performing and evaluating the test are ISO 105-A01
and ISO 105-A03. More specifically, the following
tests are performed:

在下文提及的所有色牢度测试中，仅测定衬贴织物
沾色的色牢度等级。执行和评估测试的基本方法依据是 ISO 105-A01 和 ISO 105-A03。更具体的说，执行以下测试：• Determination of colour fastness to water according to ISO 11642• 按照 ISO 11642 进行的耐水色牢度测定• Determination of colour fastness to rubbing according to ISO 11640• 按照 ISO 11640 进行的耐干摩擦色牢度的测定• Determination of colour fastness to saliva according to ISO 105-A01• 按照 ISO 105-A01 进行的耐唾液色牢度的测定• Determination of colour fastness to perspirationaccording to ISO 11641• 按照 ISO 11641 进行的耐汗液色牢度的测定

31

气味

Odour

A sample of defined area is conditioned in a desiccator of set humidity and the odour formed is evaluated sensorially by a set of test persons.

01.04.2024

将确定范围内的样品放入湿度已设定的干燥器中进行调节，所形成的气味由一组测试人员通过感官进行评估。

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All articles are subjected to a preliminary odour
test, which, if failed, stops the certification procedure. The odour from mould, high boiling fractionsof petrol (from colour printing), fish (from permanent finishing) or aromatic hydrocarbons will leadto a test failure. Moreover, odorants (perfumes)
used for removing or covering the smell of a textile
material originating from its production (oil, fats,
dyestuffs) must not be detected during sensory
odour testing.

01.04.2024

所有的产品都要经过初步的气味测试，如未能通过测试，则认证程序将停止。霉菌、高沸汽油馏分（彩色印刷）、鱼腥（来自永久整理）或芳香烃的气味会导致测试失败。此外，在感官气味测试过程中，不得检出用于去除或掩盖纺织原料（油、脂肪、染料）气味的气味剂（香精）。

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