PASSIONSFO R T U N E A P R I L / M AY 2 0 2 1 1 2 5

TIME WELL SPENTFASHIOND A N I L O S C A R PAT I

CareLabel

Brunello Cucinelli’s Old Worldvalues make him a radical forwardthinker in the world of fashion.
BY EMILIE HAWTIN

In early form: Goal is to ship this Friday afternoon
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STORY CODE
PAS.W.0521

Herbert, Scimecca, Bentley, Hawtin (emilie.hawtin@gmail.com)
STORY NAMEPRECURRENT: PASSIONS: BRUNELLO CUCINELLIISSUE DATEAPRIL/MAY 2021

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“TODAY I LOOKED at the calendar

and thought, ‘How is it
possible that every year theswallows arrive on the same day, to thesame place?’ ” Annual bird patterns are
top of mind for the CEO of one of theworld’s most prestigious luxury
fashion companies. It might not be
what most expect, let alone after ayear like 2020, but few corporate
leaders indulge themselves in naturalwonder like Brunello Cucinelli, Italy’s
prophetic cashmere emperor.
Forty years in, what he calls his“humanistic” approach to capitalism—based on trust and respect for people
and nature—remains quite simple. Inan era when brands and leaders arescrambling to understand the meaning of accountability or sustainability,
Cucinelli’s long-held values provide
something of a playbook. “I want
to work with true, honest people. Ifthey’re concerned one day, I would
like to see that in their face. If they’rehappy, I want to share their happiness.

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I want to share difficulties
and fears,” Cucinelli says.
Solomeo, the medieval
Umbrian hamlet that hehas magnificently restored(and which is a stone’s
throw from where he grewup), serves as the forumof the Brunello Cucinelli brand. Any visitor willquickly notice Solomeo’sstriking equilibrium of
past and future: Amid thestone towers and statuesof Greco-Roman philosophers are membersof an impeccably cool,multigenerational staff
who produce men’s and“Don’t get caught in all ofthese daily tasks. To me,tasks kill the human soul.”

women’s tailored sportswear and knits in Cucinelli’s signature relaxed style.
The materials are superlative, the construction isimpeccable, and nothingis compromised to meet aprice point.
The team work intandem with hundreds of
local artisans in a futuristic production compoundadjacent to Cucinelli’s Old
World tailoring school.
Glass buildings in the styleof Mies van der Rohe connect staff with the naturalworld. Large courtyards
serve as gathering places
for long, communal
lunches each day, preparedwith the harvest frombiodynamic olive groves,vineyards, and gardens.
The belief is that every
natural element affects theF R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F B R U N E L LO C U C I N E L L I ; C AT H E R I N E H Y L A N D1

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PA S S I O N S — FA S H I O N

FO R T U N E A P R I L / M AY 2 0 2 1 1 2 72other, so care for all. Thisapplies to more than thefood grown or olive oil cultivated, but to all materials,production, people, andbusiness practices.
During our videointerview, Cucinelli sits in
his bright, modern officesurrounded by colorfulbooks and soccer balls
within a frescoed-stonetower from the 1400s thathas survived plagues andearthquakes. He can’t wait
to discuss subjects fromhis pandemic learnings tothe almost-full moon to his
Einstein-inspired physical regimen to, yes, bird
migration—with theatrical
hand gestures and a warm,
paternal demeanor.
“How many times canwe say, ‘Today my soul isserene’? It’s only a few.

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You know why? Because
you need to find it. And
you can’t find it throughthe financial or economic
side of things, only thespiritual.” Cucinelli runs atight ship, but rather thanexerting power over his
team with evening emails
or weekend texts, he’s ruled
it out completely. Everyone
must disconnect at 5:30
every day and take time
for themselves, which Cucinelli explains is the mostconstructive. “Last night I
spent two and a half hours
in front of my fireplace,no television, just beautiful thoughts. We need torediscover time with oursouls,” he says.
Of course, the test ofsuch lofty principles is
how they’re applied in acrisis. The pandemic hit

THE SECRETS OF
SOLOMEO[1] Cutters create
Cucinelli’s signaturesoft tailoring. [2] The
beautifully restored
hamlet is a factory town
like no other.

Cucinelli’s sales significantly, and the publicly
traded company reported
revenues of 544 million
euros ($640 million) for
2020, down 10% from2019. But Cucinelli, whooperates his company as
if it will last 100 years
beyond him, was steadfast in his 10-year plan to
double sales by 2028 andtook no drastic action.
His employees all kept
their jobs and full salaries.
Global partners were notasked for discounts, and$36 million worth of unsold goods were wrappedand donated. The company’s shares are currently
trading at pre-pandemic
highs on the Italian stock
exchange.
“I didn’t tell my employees that everything will beokay. But I did tell themthat the world needs us.
And that I’m here, thatthey can count on me. In
return, I asked them toshare this thought process
and allow me to count onthem,” he says. (The staff
agreed to take one week’sholiday in August insteadof the usual two, but they
ended up accomplishingso much that they wound
up taking two anyway.)
All these efforts distill
into a workforce thatis diverse and talented,
extraordinarily devoted,
gracious, and noticeably
finessed. They’re in luxury,
but without frenetic, toopacked schedules. Even
their emails are sent withwarmth and delight.
“Don’t get caught in allof these daily tasks. To me,tasks kill the human soul,”
Cucinelli advises. What hereally means: Make time tothink about your place inour shared space and how
you can exemplify something better.
While few brands are
surrounded by rolling hills
and medieval churches,
Cucinelli’s mindset is one
that any business could
adopt. His company is
proof that doing good is
possible, without compromising profit or allure,
and that turning off might
be the most productive
way forward for all.

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