12/17 | Volume 143 | Thannhausen, December 14, 2017home care

48th IDC International Detergency Conference

12
2017

englishskin care

Exfoliation: Let the Beauty Arise
New Formulation Concepts Overcoming
the Water/Oil Transparency Challenge

repellent

Bloodsuckers are not Fussy!
Reliable Protection is Essential

SEPAWA
congress
Event Reporthair care

Washing Away the “Bad Hair Day”
with Silicone Solutions

64th SEPAWA Congress &13th European Detergents Conference
18-20 October 2017, Estrel Congress Center, Berlin, Germany
K. Henning

SOFW Journal 12/17 | Volume 143 | Thannhausen, Germany, December 14, 2017

event report | SEPAWA Congress 2017

64th SEPAWA Congress & 13th European Detergents Conference
18-20 October 2017, Estrel Congress Center, Berlin, Germany
K. Henning

Photo: K. HeyerT

he 64th SEPAWA Congress was held in conjunction with the 13th European Detergents Conference (EDC) at the Estrel Congress Center in Berlin.
The change of venue to Berlin was well received, as evidenced by an increase in the number of delegates, to more than 3,000
from 49 countries, as well as growth in the number of exhibitors, to 254 companies. These figures represented new records
for both participants and exhibitors.
A programme of 39 scientific lectures offered a broad range of comprehensive information on the characteristics and functionsof surfactants and detergents, examining both the scientific basis of these products in the 13th European Detergents Conference, as well as their practical applications in the different sessions on detergents, cleaning products and cosmetics. The lecture
series “Forum for Innovations” featured 69 short presentations on new product developments, applications and procedures fordetergents and cosmetics.
The Detergents Committee of the German Chemists Society (GDCh/HAD) and the SEPAWA Specialist Group Legislation, Environment and Consumers (LUV) addressed the subject of the sustainability of detergent ingredients with joint reports on thebiodegradability of fragrances in detergents, the traceability of certified oil palm products and the marketplace for RSPO credits,and current legislative regulations.
The cosmetics lectures covering care and protection of skin and hair by individual substances and new applications were presented in conjunction with the SEPAWA Specialist Group Cosmetic Applications and Technology (CAT) and the German Society
for Scientific and Applied Cosmetics (DGK).
The German Society of Perfumers (DGP) presented an interactive show about fragrances entitled “Bridge of Senses”, sharedtreasures from the Osmothèque in Versailles and revealed new paths in the perfumery sector.
The SEPAWA Young Researcher Award was presented for 3 outstanding master’s, 2 bachelor’s and 3 doctoral theses. The SEPAWA Innovation Award for new developments in the field of cosmetics and detergents was granted to 3 prizewinners.
In addition, the GDCh Specialist Group Detergency and Formulations awarded the Young Researcher Award for outstanding
scientific research at the 13th European Detergents Conference.

2

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SEPAWA Congress 2017 | event report

Structures and Properties of Surfactant, Nano,
Micro and Gel Systems

Surfactants, Chelants, Enzymes, Preservative Systems andEasy-to-Clean Additives in Detergents

At the European Detergents Conference, 10 lectures andIn the session Laundry and Cleaning Detergents, 7 lec16 poster presentations addressed, among other topics, functures addressed the properties, applications and new detional nanosystems for the transport of active substances,velopments of products. The topics included proteins as an
nanoreactors and artificial organelles, microemulsions witheasy-to-clean additive in water-based cleaners, a retard syslong-chain n-alkanes and waxes, self-assembly of low motem for surface cleaning, the expectations of the new GLDA
lecular weight, mimicking natural membranes utilising transand MGDA chelators in detergents and for raising the bar inmembrane protein polymer conjugates and gelled lyotropic
household care with new lipase technology and polyoxyethliquid crystals.
ylene alkylether carboxylic acids as all-round surfactants, an
In this subject area, Dr. André Laschewsky, University ofintelligent preservative system that complies with legal rePotsdam and Fraunhofer Institute for Applied Polymer Requirements and the performance assessment of automatic
search IAP, reported on “Schizophrenic amphiphilic polymers:
dishwasher detergents.
turning surfactants upside-down and micelles inside-out.”
In his lecture, entitled “Attractive rather than repellent: proteins as an easy-to-clean additive in water-based cleaners,”
Zwitterionic polymers are much studied for highly bioDr. Matthias Reihmann, Gelita AG, Eberbach, Germany,
compatible and non-immunogenic materials, by virtue
presented a new cleaning process through which a hydrophilof their similarity to cell membranes that are composed
ic protective layer on the surface is formed.
mainly of zwitterionic phospholipids. Among the various families of polyzwitterion classes, poly(sulfobetaine)s
Common practice in industrial cleaning (e.g., vehicle
cleaning) is the application of additional water-repellent
excel by virtue of their chemical and physical stabiliprotective layers, which produce a hydrophobic surface.
ty, as well as the pH-independence of their zwitterionFor example, wax products, silicone compounds, nanoic character [1]. Furthermore, many poly(sulfobetaine)s
display thermo-responsive behaviour in aqueous media.
technology or so-called Lotus-Effect® coatings are used toRemarkably, and in contrast to most known
thermo-responsive water-soluble polymers,
which show a coil-to-globule collapse transition with a lower critical solution temperature(LCST), poly(sulfobetaine)s may undergo sucha transition showing an upper critical solution
temperature (UCST) [2].
Exploring the use of poly(sulfobetaine)s blocks
as versatile building blocks for “smart” and biocompatible polymers, a series of dual-responsive
double-hydrophilic block copolymers have been
designed [3]. These copolymers are composed
Fig. 1 Scheme of the temperature-controlled behaviour of schizophrenic amphiphilof zwitterionic and non-ionic blocks, and conseic block copolymers: a) evolution of amphiphilicity b) evolution of self-assembly
quently feature a UCST as well as a LCST tranc) simplified phase diagram
sition. Adjusting the structure of the polymer
blocks properly allows for a stepwise switchingof the copolymers, from an amphiphilic character at low temperatures to a fully soluble, double-hydrophilic polymer at intermediate temperatures, and back to an amphiphile at further
elevated temperatures.
The scheme of the temperature-controlled behaviour of schizophrenic amphiphilic block copolymers is shown in Fig. 1.
In this course of transformations, the role of hydrophilic and hydrophobic blocks are exchanged,
and the micellar structures turn inside-out. Thispattern of self-assembly is often referred to as“schizophrenic” [4]. The switching of schizophrenic of amphiphilic block copolymer by dual
thermo-responsive block copolymers with bothFig. 2 “Schizophrenic” switching of amphiphilic block copolymers
UCST and LCST transition is shown in Fig. 2.
12/17 | 143 | sofwjournal[1] A. Laschewsky, Polymers 6 (2014) 1544; [2] A. Laschewsky, Polymers 6 (2014) 1544, V. Hildebrand et al., Polym. Chem. 7 (2016) 731 and ibid. 8 (2017) 310[3] N. Vishnevetskaya et al., Macromolecules 49 (2016) 6655 and references therein; [4] J.V.M. Weaver et al., Chem. Commun. 38 (2002) 2122

3

event report | SEPAWA Congress 2017

layers allows the formulation of high-performance andextend cleaning cycles and simplify subsequent cleaning
completely biodegradable cleaners that are suitable for efsteps.
fective regular maintenance cleaning even at very mild pH
A completely new method of protecting cleaned surfaces
values of about 7.5.
uses functional proteins, which can easily be added to existing water-based cleaning systems.
These proteins absorb on many surfaces, such as metal, plastic or glass,
APPROACH: EASY-TO-CLEAN-EFFECT BY USING PROTEINS
leading to the formation by interaction
AND THEIR ABSORBED WATER LAYERS
via hydrogen bonds of a stable but• Specific proteins may absorb to various surfaces• They should absorb a water layer surrounding the protein moleculesswellable bound protein network. As• When in contact with water, soil should float easily from the slippery protein surface
soon as water droplets hit the surface,
the protein network attracts the watermolecules and creates a closed, hydroHydrophobic
Hydrophobic
Hydrophobic
Hydrophobic
philic protective layer. This protective
layer facilitates subsequent cleaning(Fig. 3).
In contrast to existing water-repellent
coatings, especially with Lotus-Effect®,
Water
by which water rolls off an extremeProtein Layer
HydrophilicProtein Layer
Protein Layerly unwettabble surface, the soil floats
on the aqueous protein film of protein-protective layers and can be displaced from the surface by gentle rinsFig. 3 Easy-to-clean effect of using proteins and their absorbed water layers (©Gelita AG)
ing with water (easy-to-clean effect).
This results in a self-cleaning effect,
which significantly extends cleaningintervals. Furthermore, this technology
ACHIEVEMENTS: NOVOTEC® CB800 FILM CHARACTERISTICS• The protein films are only several micron thickallows a considerable reduction in en• At application concentration they are fully transparent
vironmental impact and resource con• The contact angle of water to protein layers is almost
independent from concentration
sumption (Fig. 4).
The advantage of cleaning agentsbased on protein-protective layers has
been demonstrated by observing 90
Washing with DI water (2x)coaches in a comparative study overWashing with DI water (1x)a period of three years by a train opCleaning with 2% NOVOTEC® CB800
erator that could extend its averagecleaning cycles from two days to two
Contact angle measurements by sessile drop method
Washing quartz glass with Glass cleaner
weeks. It was also confirmed that, beon glass coated with different protein concentrations:with increasing CB800 concentration and
The contact angle is almost independent from protein
subsequent washing with DI water
cause of the protective nature of theconcentration
protein layers, less soil adhered to thevehicle surface. Thus, the new concept
Fig. 4© 2017
Achievements:
Novotec® CB800 film characteristics (©Gelita AG)
GELITA AG. Any copies need to be authorized by GELITA
with hydrophilic protein-protection
12

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sofwjournal | 143 | 12/17

SEPAWA Congress 2017 | event report

Sustainability and Safety of Detergents

SEPAWA Young Researchers’ AwardT

he annual SEPAWA Young Researchers’ Award is one of
SEPAWA’s most important activities, helping to promote thetraining of the next generation. The prize is given to students
for outstanding bachelor’s, master’s and doctoral theses. Fromthe submitted theses, the jury selected 8 prizewinners.
Two prices were awarded for outstanding bachelor’s theses.
The first prize was given to Hilal Bahceci, Beuth University ofApplied Sciences, Berlin, for her thesis, “Production and investigation of naturally based surfactant-stabilised emulsions andtheir application in anti-ageing products and lip boosters”. The
second prize was given to Jan Ebbeke, University of Applied
Sciences, Ostwestfalen-Lippe, for his thesis, “Investigations of
the influence of 1,2-alkandioles on physical-chemical characteristics of multiphase systems”.
Three prizes were awarded for outstanding master’s theses.
The first prize was awarded to Matthias Müller, Fraunhofer
Institute for Applied Polymer Research, Potsdam, for his thesis,“Synthesis and characterisation of new water-soluble glycopolymers.” The second prize went to Ricarda Kohlen, Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences in cooperation with Evonik
Nutrition & Care GmbH, for her thesis, “Rinse-on sun protection formulations – formulation concepts and development ofmethods,” while the third prize was awarded to Aimée Nottingham, University of the Arts London, for her thesis “Analysisof the antioxidant capacity of plant extracts in cosmetic formulations using chemiluminescence method.”Three prizes were awarded for outstanding doctoral theses.
The prizes went to Dr. Kristin Ganske, University of Jena,for her doctoral thesis, “Nucleophilic reactions for the designof new cellulose derivatives as functional polymers”, to Dr.
Meike Schlingmann, University of Manchester, for her doctoral thesis, “Identification and investigation of polymer properties controlling the performance of hair-styling mousses,”
and to Dr. Leonardo Chiappisi, University of Berlin, for histhesis “Ionic co-assembly in mixtures of polysaccharides andsurfactants.”

In the LUV/HAD GDCh Session, 7 lectures covered sustainability, safety labelling, EU Ecolabel criteria and EU
chemical legislation. The topics addressed the impact of
CLP regulation on the institutional cleaning sector, the possibilities of more effective and efficient safety labelling ofdetergents, the biodegradability of fragrances in laundry
detergents and cleaners, Europe’s transition to a circular
economy considering EU Ecolabel criteria on detergents,
new requirements for packaging as challenges and opportunities in the circular economy, and the sustainability ofpalm(kernel) oil derivatives and traceability of certified oilpalm products.
Dr. Anneliese Wilsch-Irrgang, Henkel AG & Co. KGaA,
Düsseldorf, Germany, raised the question, “How about thebiodegradability of fragrances in laundry detergents, cleaners and household care products?”
Consumers expect detergents and care products to be safeand efficient. The sensory assessment by the customer isparticularly important in this regard, because the scent often
influences not only overall acceptance, but also consumer’s
impressions of the products’ performance during dishwashing, cleaning and laundry care. Detergents and care products
contain perfume because fragrances play an important role incommercial success. (Fig. 5)

Parameters for the development of a productmanufacturer

Sustainability
Product safety
Performance

Costs
PackagingdesignFragrance

Deciding factors for consumer
consumerAppealPerformance

Fragrance
Price

The picture shows the prizewinners. (Photo: K. Heyer)
Fig. 5 Product design and purchase decision (©Henkel)

12/17 | 143 | sofwjournal

5event report | SEPAWA Congress 2017

Fragrance Content of Detergents and Care Products
Fragrance content varies in the different product classes,
ranging from 0.1–0.3 % in all-purpose cleaners, 0.1–1.3 % in
washing powders, 3–10 % in toilet blocks and 1–100 % in air
fresheners. Similarly, the composition of the perfume varies
in the different product classes. Depending on the product’s
application, a volatile dispersion of the fragrance throughout
the room (e.g., for room scents), or a pleasant scent of the
product during application but without a lingering fragrance
after application (e.g., for dish detergents), may be desired.
For laundry detergents and fabric softeners, fragrances withgood substrate adhesion and a long-lasting fresh smell aredesired.
In the 2015 Sustainability Report of the German Cosmetic,
Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW), the total

SEPAWA Innovation AwardI

nnovations are the key for growth and competitiveness, aswell as an important pillar of our economy. Only by creating
something entirely new can companies remain competitive in
the global market. This year, for the fifth time, the SEPAWA Innovation Award in the field of cosmetics and detergents wasgiven to three prizewinners. The prize is intended stimulate
the active management of ideas in SEPAWA’s member companies and raise public awareness to the chosen innovation.
A neutral independent jury consisting of SEPAWA’s Chairman
and 6 members of the scientific board selected 3 prizewinners
from the 28 proposals submitted. These included innovative
raw materials, processes and concepts. The prize consists ofa certificate and a trophy. The body of the trophy shows astylised SEPAWA wave.
The first prize was given to Dr. Lilia Heider and Alexander Kielbassa, Merck KGaA, for the “Advanced light protection with functional inorganic systems.” An innovative
concept for protective skin care has been developed. UVradiation accounts for only 5 % of the entire solar spectrum that reachs the earth. Specific titanium dioxide gradesin combination with mica silica based functional fillers can

6consumption of ingredients for detergents and care products
amounted to 530,470 tonnes, including 9,027 tonnes of fragrances.
To achieve the desired fragrance effects for individual products,
functional perfumes are composed of mixtures of a variety ofdifferent odorous substances. These can be natural substances,such as essential oils (e.g., citrus oil), which themselves comprise several different components. This also applies to plantfragrances, such as resins or natural extracts. Materials fromanimals are no longer used in applied perfumery.
In functional perfumes, the majority of fragrances are synthetic. In contrast to essential oils, these fragrances, which aredesignated as aroma chemicals, are available to a consistentquality and mostly in sufficient quantities. Economically, they
are more efficient for consumer goods. A perfume formulacontains 30-70 single components.

protect the skin against both high-energy visible light andinfrared light.
The second prize was awarded to the company SNS Nano Fiber Technology, andwas accepted by Dr. Laura Frazierand Martina Spiegel for “Nanosan®
nanofibers for decontamination of theskin.” Nanosan presents a new approachto skin decontamination. Absorbent polyurethane fibres with diameters less than one
micron are effective for removing even small
particles from the skin. Unlike cleansers that
require skin massage, Nanosan simply needs
to be pressed onto the skin.
The third prize was awarded to the company Silab, and was accepted by Fanny Fondecave and Tanja Fourio for the productinnovation “FILMEXEL – the Excellence ofa natural, protective and lifting film.” FILMEXEL is a preservative-free 100 % active powder that protects the skin fromenvironmental chemical or mechanicalaggressions. It reduces the penetrationof pollutants, improves the overall appearance of the face and has anti-ageing properties through a lifting effect.
The picture shows the prize winners after the handing-over of the prize certificates by the Chairman of the SEPAWA Dr.
Horst Lothar Möhle. (Photo: K. Heyer)

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SEPAWA Congress 2017 | event report

Product Safety and Prohibition of Use
To ensure product safety for humans, animals and the environment, manufacturers define safety requirements for fragrances in briefings to the supplier. For the perfumes used,
the ingredients of to labelling requirements under the Detergents Regulation are defined in the Scientific Committee
on Consumer Products (SCCP) list, which includes 26 fragrances.
In addition, in 1996, the suppliers of fragrances and functional perfumes established the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) for the scientific investigation of theecological and toxicological properties of fragrances. Basedon assessment of the results by an independent panel of experts, recommendations for action to ensure the safe use offragrances are provided.
On the basis of these recommendations the International
Fragrance Association (IFRA) will publish standards for thesafe use of raw materials. A transparency list itemises 3,999
materials that can be used in fragrances. For 191 materials,
IFRA’s standards define restrictions and prohibitions of use,such as for nitromusk or for geranonitrile for functional fragrances.
In addition, manufacturers of detergents and care products
have defined further voluntary restrictions for single substances, and have proactively given up their use. For example, the IKW declared a voluntary ban on the use of musk
xylene as long ago as December 1993 (IFRA banned musk
xylene in 2009, Henkel banned nitromusk compounds in2004). The use of geranonitrile
has been banned by IFRA since2006, and by Henkel since
2004.
Ingredients
Biodegradability
Perfumes are mixtures of several single components. Degradation tests, however, are significant only if they are determinedwith pure substances. An estimation based on the degradation data from single perfume
components is therefore thenorm.
Tests according to the OECD
(OECD 301: Degradability within a time slot of 10 days withina total time of 28 days)are conducted to determine ready biodegradability. If the degradation is slower, degradation tests
can be performed according toOECD 302, by which data are
obtained for inherent degradability.
12/17 | 143 | sofwjournal

Because Henkel itself creates and produces perfumes, it hascomprehensive data on the properties of the synthetic fragrances in its portfolio, which permits detailed analysis of biodegradability of the raw materials used. Information comesfrom the supplier’s Material Safety Data Sheet of, the evaluation of IFRA and RIFM, and ECHA dossiers. Functional perfumes can contain up to 1,500 different raw materials, with ashare of two-digit percentage up to one-tenth per mill. Tab. 1
shows the composition of a model formulation of a perfume
for a dishwashing detergent.
The main component (nearly 50 %) is the washable lemon
terpenes, which are a natural mixture of different ingredientswith limonene as the main ingredient. Further components
are included in the single-digit percentage range, or in the permill range, such as aldehydes, which will intensify and roundoff the odour.
Of greatest interest are ingredients that are included in termsof volume. For these odorous substances, the knowledge ofthe degradation behaviour is required by regulations such as
the REACH Regulation. Given that many raw materials themselves are mixtures, such as the essential oils, or are produced
only in small quantities, reliable figures on the degradation
are not available for all ingredients used.
The data availability on the biodegradation of synthetic odorous substances in the company’s own portfolio is as follows:biodegradability data are available for 60 %, which accountfor 95 % of the total amount of odorous substances used .
Odorous substances for which data do not exist are used inonly limited quantities. Readily biodegradable synthetic odor-

Content

Biodegradability
according to OECD 301 (%)

Washable lemon terpenes

457.5

42-82

Phenylethyl alcohol120

90-100

Dipropylene glycol

10064-100Terpinolene

95

62-80

Citronellylnitrile

80

69

Geraniol50

90-100

Citral40

92

Citronellol

20

80-90

Linalool

20

60-70

Triplal15

4Aldehyde C-10

182

Aldehyde C-12

0.9

73

Aldehyde C-8

0.5

46

Aldehyde C-9

0.1

83

Total

1000

Tab. 1 Composition and biodegradation data of a model formulation of a perfume for a dishwashingdetergent7event report | SEPAWA Congress 2017ous substances account for 36 % of the total number, but
only 70 % of the total volume.
To draw valid conclusions regarding the degradation behaviour of perfumes, the average biodegradation of the individual values of the raw materials must be mathematicallyestimated.
For the components of the model formulation shown in thetable, biodegradation is calculated according to OECD 301.
For washable lemon terpenes with the largest share, there
are only limited data on biodegradation, yielding a wide
bandwidth of 42-82 %. For the calculation of the biodegradation, the single values of the perfume mixture have to beweighted with their mass percentage in the mixture. If data
are not available, the degradation rate is set at zero. For
the model formulation of the dish detergent fragrance, thebiodegradability is calculated at 59-85 %. Thus, at least 59
mass- % of the ingredients of the perfume oil are degradedaccording to the OECD tests for ready biodegradability inthe required timeframe. In fact, because of the uncertainties
associated with the citrus oil, the degradation will be significantly higher.
With this methodology, the average degradation for theperfume oils in Henkel’s portfolio calculated at a minimumof 60 % according to the OECD tests for ready biodegradability within the demanded timeframe.

Protection of Skin and Hair
In the CAT/DGK Session, 10 lectures covered the humanskin microbiota, pre- and probiotics and the epidermal
barrier and unlocking the skin microbiome code, how
to restore trust in measuring the sun protection factor(SPF), myths and facts on different hair bonding treatments concerning a possible repair of lightened hair, andthe synthesis of structural variants of mannosylerythritol

by combining various Pseudozyma sp. with hydrophobic
substances.
The lectures on application of cosmetics addressed skin carewith a leave-on rich aerosol-free foam, taking skin feel tothe next level, the next generation of amphiphiles by Janus
nanoparticles, balancing the skin microbiota by strengthening
the skin barrier functions and supporting skin-own pathogen
recognition and combining sensory formulation innovationand microbiome protection for whole-body rejuvenation.
In this section, Patrick Gonry, GOVA Ingredients, reportedon “Unlocking the skin microbiome code.”
One of the skin’s main functions is to build a protective barrier
against environmental impacts. The epidermis forms a shieldthat keeps out undesirable chemicals and bacteria.
With up to 1,000 different species, microorganisms outnumber skin cells by 90 % to 10 %. Each person has an individual
skin microbiota, and each part of the body has a different
population: even the right and left hands are different.
Scientific research has shown that the skin barrier is protectedby a far more impressive shield. A layer of microorganisms
covers the epidermis. This microbiotic film forms an impenetrable labyrinth for harmful foreign microorganisms. The
microbiotic layer and the epidermis form an inseparable film.
Skin imperfections and discomfort may actually be the resultof a disturbance of the protective microflora. The delicate balance of the skin micobiota can be disturbed by many factors,
including pollution, excessive UV exposure, chemicals and aggressive cosmetic ingredients. If this barrier is weakened, theskin becomes sensitive, dry, infected, itchy and wrinkled, allof which age the skin.
The surprising influence of natural polysaccharides, such as
inulin, agave sugar and mannose polymers, on the skin microbiota has been investigated through PCR measurements.
These polysaccharides act as selective prebiotics. A prebiotic
is a food supplement for the skin microbiota, which harmful

Photo: K. Heyer

8

sofwjournal | 143 | 12/17

SEPAWA Congress 2017 | event reportmicroorganisms cannot metabolise. Hence the natural skinflora are reinforced and balanced.
These results are a game changer not only for the cosmetic
treatment of an acne-prone skin, but also for the cleansing
and disinfecting of any skin type. These findings also offer an
intelligent approach to protecting and reinforcing the skin’s
general health.
Dr. Thomas Förster, Thomas Hippe, Georg Knübel, Henkel, raised the question, “Is repair of lightened hair feasible?
Myths and facts on hair-bonding treatments.” Blond hair is
a never-ending trend, and is one of the most desired haircolours and a status symbol. The bleaching agent hydrogen
peroxide destroys melanin pigments and damages the hairstructure by oxidation of amino acids from cysteine to cysteic
acid . The damage results in hair that is rough, straw-like, dull,
lifeless and prone to breakage.
With bright blond or even white hair colours becoming fashionable over time, prevention or even repair of hair damage by
lightening has become a real consumer need. Cutting-edge
research by biophysical measurements (hair breakage by
combing, stress-strain measurements of E-modulus and breakstress), as well as by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC)of structural changes in keratin caused by strong oxidative
stress, has led to several approaches to counteracting this oxidative keratin damage using ingredients that can bond withneighbouring keratin strands.
Stress-strain measurements using maleic acid and succinicacid showed significantly less E-modulus reduction, and significantly higher break stress values (Fig. 6). By comparison,

the damage was substantially greater with acetic acid.
The results of wet-DSC with maleic acid indicated significantly
stronger crosslinking of α-helices with surrounding matrix at
significantly higher denaturation temperatures. A trend towards higher denaturation enthalpy indicates stabilisation of
α-helices (Fig. 7).
Intercalation of the acids into the hair structure and bridging of neighbouring keratin strands by ionic and/or hydrogen bonds can be assumed as a hypothetical mechanism(Fig. 8). Hairdressers have responded very positively tothese results.

ical investigations
tial Scanning Calorimetry (wet-DSC)

Denaturation Temperature [°C]gredient

152

Peak apex [°C]c acidnt higher denaturation temperature indicating
crosslinking of a-helices with surrounding

Hypothetical mechanism
How does it work

*

148
146
144
142
140

Denaturation Enthalpy [J/g]30

25

Product: Untreated
Product: BlondMe Premium Lift 9+
Product: BlondMe Premium Lift 9+ plus Fibreplex No. 1
Whiskers = confidence interval of the mean (95 %)

20

15

10

5

Reduction of E-Modulus after 2 Bleaches

1E9

 E-Modulus [N/m2]

Whiskers = confidence interval of the mean (95 %)150

Enthalpy [J/g]higher denaturation enthalpy indicating
g of a-helices

Product: Untreated
Product: BlondMe Premium Lift 9+
Product: BlondMe Premium Lift 9+ plus Fibreplex No.1

154

1,2E9

0

European Natural Hair 7/0 (Kerling),
BlondMe Premium 9+ bleach powder, 45 min, 32°C
Fig. 7 Denaturation depending on temperature and enthalpy (©Henkel)

*

1,4E9

Thomas Förster, R&D Beauty Care

10*

Water dilution and mono-carboxylic acids ineffective
1,6E9

Product: 2x Bleached
Product: 2x Bleached + Succinic Acid
Product: 2x Bleached + Maleic Acid
Product: 2x Bleached + Acetic Acid
Product: 2x Bleached + Water

Dicarboxylic acids as key structure
1,8E9

Hypotheses

Whiskers: 95% confidence interval of arithmetic mean

2E9

Break Stress after 2 Bleaches▪ Intercalation of the acids into
the hair structure
2,4E-04

Break Stress [N/m2]

2,2E-04
2,0E-04
1,8E-04

Product: 2x Bleached
Product: 2x Bleached + Succinic Acid
Product: 2x Bleached + Maleic Acid
Product: 2x Bleached + Acetic Acid
Product: 2x Bleached + Water

Whiskers: 95% confidence interval of arithmetic mean

1,6E-04**▪ Bridging of neighboring keratin strands
by ionic and/or hydrogen bonds
1,4E-04
1,2E-04
1,0E-04
8,0E-05
6,0E-05

European Natural Hair 7/0 (Kerling),
BlondMe Premium 9+ bleach powder, 45 min, 32°C
Fig. 6 Reductionof E-modulus and break stress after 2 bleaches
Thomas Förster,
R&D Beauty
Care
9(©Henkel)

12/17 | 143 | sofwjournal

Fig. 8 Hypotheses of intercalation of dicarboxylic acids into the hairstructure and bridging of neighbouring keratin strands by ionic
and/or hydrogen bonds (©Henkel)
Thomas Förster, R&D Beauty Care
11

9event report | SEPAWA Congress 2017

Young Researchers’ Awardof the GDCh Specialist Group Detergency and Formulations

T

he Young Researchers’ Prize was awarded to Dr. Viet
Hildebrand for his innovative work in the field of “Responsive Materials,” which uses systematic variation of structures to characterize a number of series of new poly zwitterions. Thereby, new amphiphilic structures and polymericsurfactants with exceptional properties become accessible .
By realising so-called ”schizophrenic” aggregation behavior,
this research obtained a group of switchable polymeric surfactants, thereby opening up innovative approaches for thedevelopment of new components in detergents.
Dr. Viet Hildebrand, Universität Potsdam, Institut für Chemie, 14476 Potsdam, Germany, reported on his research
work on “Twofold switchable block copolymers based on
new polyzwitterions.”
As a complement to the well-established zwitterionic monomers 3-[(2-(methacryloyloxy)ethyl)dimethylammonio]propane-1-sulfonate (“SPE”) and 3-[(3-methacrylamidopropyl)dimethylammonio]propane-1-sulfonate(“SPP”), the closely related sulfobetaine monomers weresynthesised and polymerised by reversible addition-fragmentation chain transfer (RAFT) polymerisation, using
a fluorophore-labelled RAFT agent. The polyzwitterionsof systematically varied molar mass were characterisedwith respect to their solubility in water, deuterated water, and aqueous salt solutions. These poly(sulfobetaine)sshow thermos-responsive behavior in water, exhibiting
upper critical solution temperatures (UCST). Phase transition temperatures depend notably on the molar mass andpolymer concentration, and are much higher in D2O thanin H2O. In addition, the phase transition temperatures are
effectively modulated by the addition of salts. The individual effects can be partially correlated to the Hofmeisterseries for the anions studied. Nevertheless, they depend
in a complex way on the concentration and nature of theadded electrolytes, on the one hand, and on the detailed
structure of the zwitterionic side chain, on the other hand.
For the polymers with the same zwitterionic side chain, it
was found that methacrylamide-based poly(sulfobetaine)s
exhibit higher UCST-type transition temperatures than their

10

methacrylate analogues. The extension of the distance between polymerisable unit and zwitterionic groups from 2 to
3 methylene units decreases the UCST-type transition temperatures. Poly(sulfobetaine)s derived from aliphatic esters
show higher UCST-type transition temperatures than theiranalogues featuring cyclic ammonium cations. The UCSTtype transition temperatures increase markedly with spacer
length separating the cationic and anionic moieties from
3 to 4 methylene units. Thus, apparently small variations intheir chemical structure strongly affect the phase behaviourof the polyzwitterions in specific aqueous environments.
Water-soluble block copolymers were prepared from the zwitterionic monomers and the non-ionic monomer N-isopropylmethacrylamide (“NIPMAM”) by the RAFT polymerisation.
Such block copolymers with two hydrophilic blocks exhibit
twofold thermo-responsive behaviour in water. The poly(sulfobetaine) block shows a UCST, whereas the poly(NIPMAM)
block exhibits a lower critical solution temperature (LCST).
This constellation induces a structure inversion of the solvophobic aggregate, called “schizophrenic micelle.” Dependingon the relative positions of the two different phase transitions, the block copolymer passes through a molecularly dissolved or an insoluble intermediate regime, which can be
modulated by the polymer concentration or by the additionof salt. Whereas at low temperature, the poly(sulfobetaine)
block forms polar aggregates that are kept in solution by thepoly(NIPMAM) block, at high temperature, the poly(NIPMAM)
block forms hydrophobic aggregates that are kept in solution
by the poly(sulfobetaine) block. Thus, aggregates can be prepared in water, which switch reversibly from the “inside” tothe “outside”, and vice versa.
(Photos: K. Heyer)

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SEPAWA Congress 2017 | event report

Fragrances and Perfumes

Opening of the Scientific Conference DGP
by the chair, Dr. Wolfgang KrauseThe German Society of Perfumers (DGP) presented aninteractive show of fragrances and perfumes entitled“Bridge of Senses,”, shared treasures from the Osmothèquein Versailles and revealed new paths in perfumery.

Discovery of Osmothèque’s Treasure
Patricia de Nicolai, Osmothèque of Versailles, provided an
insight into the world’s largest perfume archive, which hostsa prestigious and growing collection of more than 3,500 perfumes. This includes 400 defunct fragrances that have disappeared from the market but have paved the way for modern perfumery. Inspired by the idea of saving perfumes fromoblivion, some perfumers and fragrance houses have entrusted their secret formulas or perfumes to the Osmothèque. Famous example of these perfumes are Ambre Antique (1905),
Le Chypre (1917) and Crêpe de Chine (1925).
Furthermore, professional perfumers from the Osmothèque
try to recreate these precious scents, closely following theknow-how and the sourcing of the original raw ingredients.
Exemplars of successful recreations of disappeared scents andperfumes respectively are Le Parfum Royal (1st Century), Napoleon’s Eau de Cologne on St. Helena Island, Fougère Royalby Houbigant, Les Parfums de Rosine by Paul Poiret, Coty,
Lubin, Piver, Weil, Patou and others.

of so-called “niche perfumes”. The elegant simplicity of thebottles and the spartan Bauhaus-inspired packaging reflect
their philosophy that “less is more.” Their customers consciously buy luxury in the shape of “understatement.”
With their purist Berlin-based “Workshop of Fragrances,” theowners have created a unique oasis of peace and tranquillity,
where perfume aficionados can be inspired by their fragrances. A visit there is like “a poetic stroll through the sensual
undergrowth of their own past.”
In our fast-paced times, individual and personal contact unfortunately are all too often lost. Since the start of the new decade, however, retailing and consumer behaviour have beenchanging, moving away from the impersonal and the uniform
to the unique, the curated to hand-crafted products. The concept of “slow retailing” has also entered the cosmetics sector.
At FRAU TONIS PARFUM, the focus is on a conscious sensory
shopping experience. Each of the perfumes on offer has its
own history, the customer enters into an intensive dialogue
with perfume experts and discusses experiences and associations. “Fragrance as inspiration” is the company’s ethos.
The fragrance range includes the wonderfully close-to-nature“Linde Berlin,” the sparklingly invigorating “Berlin Summer”
and the eccentric “Veilchen,” which inspired the legendary
Marlene Dietrich way back in the 1920s. The fragrance “No.
21 Berlin” pays olfactory
homage to the exciting
city of Berlin: modern,lively and creative.
(Photos: K. Heyer)

Slow Retail – New Paths in the Perfumery Sector
In 2009, Stefanie Hanssen and Christoph Niedermeier founded FRAU TONIS PARFUM in Berlin. They offer only
hand-crafted perfumes, which belong to the luxury segment

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11event report | SEPAWA Congress 2017

SEPAWA After Event

SEPAWA Takes Off
The Congress’s HighlightD

r. Ulf Merbold took us on a voyage into
space. The keynote lecture took the audience into other spheres. Dr. Merbold isa physicist and a former astronaut. He took
part in the 1983 maiden voyage of the European Space Lab and, together with his
five US colleagues, absolved a great number of experiments on board. His topic wason: “Science in Space – Impressions for
Earth and Climate”.
He talked about his emotions at the pointof launch and about how it felt to be„caught“ in space. He particularly emphasized the Earth’s beauty and its fragility.
Using images from space, he showed just how important it isto preserve this one Earth for generations to come.

Be Careful When You Move!

This year, the SEPAWA After Event Team once again hosted anevening featuring Star Cuisine and first-class entertainment in
an atmospheric ambience for its guests.
For the first time in the Estrel with its over 800 seats, TV
Chef Stefan Marquardt, the Estrel’s Head Chef Peter Griebl and the Esperanto’s Chef Andreas Scholz, supported bytheir team of almost 50 chefs, accomplished a top culinary
performance. Carlos Zaspel, Super Talent Finalist of 2016,
performed twist upon on his „Spinning Pole“ which he had
developed himself, and with a combination of Street, Breakand Pole Dance, the Da F.U.N.K dance studio’s Master Crew
rocked the house.
Markus Schmid and his band along with Betina Ignacio entertained with Latin American Jazz and Swing.
After the meal, people took to the dance floor to work off therecently acquired calories.
So again, it was a successful evening which provided
a feast for all senses!
(Photos: K. Heyer)In her lecture, Antoinette Anderegg showed us how we
can interpret nonverbal signals of body language and use
them in daily life, be it within a team, in a sales situationor during negotiations. The topic:“Body language – nonverbal indicators of deception”.
Ms. Anderegg explained how ourbody language subtly shows ouremotions, expectations and intentions to act. The way we dress canalso be seen as a communication
signal. Using pictures and videos,she demonstrated how, throughmimic, body movement and looks,
people „reveal“ their true attitude.
(Photos: K. Heyer)

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Picture Credits: berlinpictures/shutterstock.com

contact
Dr. Klaus HenningMörikeweg 1271111 Waldenbuch | Germany
Tel: +49 7157 534556
Email: klaus.henning@onlinehome.de*www.sepawa-congress.com