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The starting point
October 25, 2006
Our 50 nominated wines, listed in the order in which they were tasted. Countries of origin are given after the wine, thenthe shop that supplied the bottle and price. Check your local store, too.

WhitesMuralhas de Moncao Vinho Verde 2005 (Portugal). Surprisingly generous and ripe with a distinctive pineapple note.
The Wine & Cheese Cask, 617-623-8656. About $10.
La Chappelle de la Bastide Picpoul de Pinet 2005 (France). Spirited acidity; some mineral interest. Leary's Fine Wine,978-462-4451. About $10.
Sepp Kremstal Gruner Veltliner 2004 (Austria). Fresh and tangy with a tickle of spritz. Leary's. About $10.
Domaine Labbe Abymes 2005 (France). Delightfully zesty, refreshing flyweight. Lower Falls Wine Co., 617-332-3000.
About $10.
Domaine Louvetrie Muscadet Sevre et Maine 2005 (France). Forward and flavorful; some fine Muscadet character.
Wine & Cheese Cask. About $10.
Verace IGT Veneto Pinot Grigio 2005. (Italy). Pleasantly lean and firm; persistent, crisp apple-like fruit. Lower Falls.
About $10.
I Merli Bianco Lamezia 2004 (Italy). Unusual bright orange-gold hue; apple rind and mineral notes. Marty's Fine Wine,617-332-1230. About $9.
Mandra Rossa Fiano 2004 (Italy). Unusual, slightly oxidative aromas; modest acidity. Harkey's Wine & Spirits,508-376-8833. About $10.
Ninet de Pena Catalanes Viogner (France). Big mouthful of tropical fruits and bubble gum. Marty's. About $9.
Domaine de la Chanade "Les Rials" 2005 (France). A hefty package of fruit; some tropical elements; pleasant butsimple. Harkey's. About $10.
Hima Fresh White 2005 (Greece). Chalky aromas; some acid structure and tart sauvignon-esque fruit. Harkey's. About$10.
Zeta Viura/Chardonnay 2005 (Spain). Down to earth aromas and plenty of crisp, persistent fruit. Great zip. Leary's.
About $10.
Chateau Le Payral Bergerac 2005 (France). Lively fresh fruit aromas; intense, if a little rotund. Lower Falls. About $9.
La Cappuccina Soave 2005 (Italy). Fairly generous mouthful of simple apple-pear fruit and some zip. Wine & CheeseCask. About $9.
Weingut Gebruder Steffes, Kaseler Kehrnagel Riesling Kabinett 2005 (Germany). Lovely riesling aromas; goodconcentration of tangerine-ish fruit and a speck of petrol. Nicely poised. Harkey's. About $10.
Mar de Castilla 2005 Verdejo (Spain). Minerally aromas; edgy apple rind flavor profile; dry and firm; nice Old World
character. Marty's. About $9.
Henri Bourgeois "Petit Bourgeois" Sauvignon 2005 (France). Fresh, wildly aromatic and zesty. More New World stylethan old. Leary's. About $10.
Lichine "La Poule Blanche" Vin de Pays d'Oc 2005 (France). Sweetish, somewhat innocuous white blend. Lower Falls.
About $10.
Casteller Penedes Blanc de Blancs 2005 (Spain). A little oxidative and thin. More fresh fruit would be welcome. Wine

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& Cheese Cask. About $8.
Ken Forrester Petit Chenin 2005 (South Africa). Lovely, steady, well-balanced wine with firmish acids and fine fruit
intensity. Harkey's. About $10.
Louisvale Chardonnay 2006 (South Africa). Big mouthful of appealing, unoaked New World fruit and vibrant acidity.
Leary's. About $10.
La Noble Vin de Pays d'Oc Chardonnay 2005 (France). Bursts with ripe tropical fruit; nicely balanced but a lot oftutti-frutti. Lower Falls. About $9.
Oveja Negra Chard/Viognier 2005 (Spain). Some real soil and earth flavors here; acids may be a little low; commercial
style. Leary's. About $10.
Teddy Hall Chenin Blanc 2005 (South Africa). Lik able fresh sip with plenty of fruit intensity; simple but well-balancedand persistent. Wine & Cheese Cask. About $9.
Cousino Macul Sauvignon Gris 2006 (Chile). Straight-up hit of intense sauvignon fruit. Marty's. About $10.

RedsPennautier Cabardes 2004 (France). Persnickety little item; a bit astringent and scratchy. Harkey's. About $10.
Duboeuf Morgon 2005 (France). Generous levels of fruit, but more acidity than seems comfortable. Marty's. About$10.
Estremadura Cerejeiras 2005 (Portugal). Unpleasant enough to leave the impression (hope?) this was a faulty bottle.
Wine & Cheese Cask. About $6.
Moulin de Gassac Vin de Pays de l'Herault "Le Mazet" 2004 (France). Appealing bright black cherry fruit and somedistinct texture; rustic, honest. Lower Falls. About $8.
Chateau de Thulon Beaujolais Villages 2005 (France). Pleasing grapey aromas; good concentration of fruit and flavor.
Lower Falls. About $10.
Chateau d'Oupia Minervois 2004 (France). A robust, flavorful wine with real texture and grip. Some earthy and roasted
notes. Wine & Cheese Cask. About $9.
Domaine Brunet Vin de Pays d'Oc Pinot Noir 2005 (France). Amiably sweet and juicy little raspberry-tinged pinot.
Lower Falls. About $10.
Sepp Neusiedlersee Zweigelt 2004 (Austria). Upbeat herbal profile: lovely shapely fruit; great zip and character.
Leary's. About $10.
Les Vergnes 2003 Bordeaux (France). Seriously dense , somewhat mossy red fruits; a solid block of flavor and chewy
texture. Marty's. About $10.
Chateau La Grange Clinet Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux 2003 (France). A surprising lot of rich ripe flavor here,
genuine Bordeaux character and some really fine grip. Lower Falls. About $10.
Col des Vents Corbieres 2004 (France). Plenty of flavor but a bit coarse. Marty's. About $10.
Mas Delmera Tarragona Tempranillo 2004 (Spain). Simple citrus y fruit; pretty low on texture. Harkey's. About $7.
Vajra Langhe Rosso 2005 (Italy). Lively light-bodied red; a little candied but with fine zip. Wine & Cheese Cask. About$9.
Vivir, Vivir Ribera del Duero 2004 (Spain). Pretty stern stuff; long on edgy texture, short on pleasing fruit. Lower Falls.
About $10.
Dona Paula "Los Cardos" Malbec 2004 (Argentina). Bottle undrinkable due to tainted cork. Harkey's. About $9.
Adegaborba Aragonez/Cabernet 2004 (Portugal). Lightish rhubarb-strawberry profile; nicely firm acids. Marty's. About$10.

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Trere Sangiovese di Romagna 'Vigna del Monte' 2005 (Italy). Bright raspberry-ish fruit and some pleasing earthy
elements. Wine & Cheese Cask. About $10.
Lavradores de Feitoria Douro 2004 (Portugal). Juicy and very lively with abundant ripe red fruits; real crowd pleaser.
Wine & Cheese Cask. About $8.
Leone de Castris, Salice Salentino "Maiana" 2004 (Italy). Sturdy little wine with some down and dirty earth notes,
leather, and lots of dense chewy fruit. The real deal. Harkey's. About $10.
Ironstone Vineyards California Merlot 2003 (US). A nice surprise: a value priced Californian with some character, cut,and zip. Harkey's. About $10.
Hill and Dale Pinotage 2003 (South Africa). Emphatic varietal character with concentrated, gamy fruit; not complex, butsolid, appealing stuff. Leary's. About $9.
Alamos Malbec 2005 (Argentina). Good concentration, fine zip, and freshness; easy drinking with a bit of character.
Leary's. About $8.
Hahn "Red Flyer" California 2003 (US). Big, ripe, flashy, spicy, and richly oaked; good length. Leary's. About $8.
MAN Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (South Africa). A little too sweet and caramel - ly to take seriously. Lower Falls. About$10.
Excelsior Paddock Shiraz 2005 (South Africa). A brawny little number with plenty of flesh, regional character, and arasher or two of smoky bacon thrown in for good measure. Marty's. About $9.
-- STEPHEN MEUSE© Copyright 2006 The New York Times Company

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