BESSTORY
SACRED ONSEN RESORTBESSHO ONSEN MAGAZINESACRED PLACE “BESSHO”

A sacred site of sun and earth
T

The name ‘Bessho’ was what first caught my attention.
It has an unusual ring to it, rhythmic but sturdy, and it
has an unusual meaning too. ‘A place apart’. A placethat is different, other, separate.
Getting to this place apart wasn’t the trek I had
expected. All it involved was sitting for an hour and ahalf amongst snoring businessmen on the Shinkansenfrom Tokyo to Ueda. The separate place of Bessho has
its own separate line: the aptly named Bessho Line,
which departs approximately every half hour f rom
Ueda. From the round windows of the train, I could
gaze at rice paddies, quiet towns, and the mountains
that creep at the edges of the landscape. Thirty
minutes later, I had arrived at Bessho Onsen Station.
The few other passengers quickly departed, and I wasalone in the candy-green station. I could see the sunset
i n t h e d i s t a n ce , a n o u t p o u r i n g o f o ra n g e ove r
mountains and the barely visible buildings of Ueda. I
had heard it might snow, so I wasn’t surprised to see
fresh snow scattered over the ground. I wondered if it
had snowed earlier that day, or perhaps the day before.
It was not until the following day that I learned it was
not f resh snow at all, but the remnants of a lightsnowfall a week earlier, still unsullied.
It’s about a 10-minute walk f rom the station to
Bessho Onsen’s numerous ryokan, but I chose to makea few detours along the way. I had been to onsen
towns before, so I thought I knew what to expect. I

01looked for the glut of tourist shops, but instead found
tempting arrays of local produce. I looked for the
kitschy souvenir food items, but saw only old ladies
chatting. I strolled through a seemingly endlesscollection of gently sloping streets, and f rom a small
bridge I gazed at the classic Japanese buildings andthe snow-brushed mountains that encircle the town. It
was one of no less than 14 bridges that crisscrossBessho Onsen, and here there was no need to navigate
around couples posing for selfies. There were only
mountains, and that sunset, which maintained its
splendour for longer than I expect of sunsets.
Before arrival, I had planned for three days in a
town with none of Japan’s standard conveniences.
That was unnecessary, and I felt a bit silly carrying myover-prepared bags past stocked stores and a large
post office. I was in a place apart, but it’s still Japan –it’s just Japan without the dazed and harried crowds ofTokyo, or the frantic tourists of Kyoto.
They call Bessho Onsen a sacred site, and I thought
I knew sacred sites. I’ve been to shrines and cathedrals
and ruins aplenty. I expected a complex mythology tofollow Bessho Onsen’s claim to sacredness, but I was
not about to get one. It’s the sunlight, they told me. It’s
the way the sun touches the mountains and the flat
earth of the surrounding farmland, the way thatsunlight remains constant throughout the year. In thisplace apart, the topography itself creates the sacred.
02

TEMPLES AND SHRINE

I

Belief

I was told to title this section ‘belief’. Belief in what, I won-unassuming, amidst moss-covered graves. I was alone,

dered. After all, most Japanese people vehemently denyfalling snow visible in the circle of sunlight surrounding

their own religiosity. It’s one thing to visit a temple or

the pagoda.

shrine. It’s another thing entirely to ‘believe’, with all that

A scenic pathway connects Anrakuji to Jorakuji, Bess-word’s Christian connotations of internally held convic-

ho’s oldest temple. Jorakuji Temple itself is a vision in con-tion.

trasts: stark white and deep brown, rigidly straight beams

Bessho Onsen boasts two Buddhist temples and one

and gently curving embellishments. The roof is thatched

Shinto shrine. I started out at the main attraction: Kitamu-

in the traditional style – a rare feature in today’s Japan,

ki Kannondo, so named for its unusual north-facing con-

where even finding those capable of maintaining such

struction. Not being particularly well-versed on the direc-

thatching can prove difficult. Walking behind the temple

tional conventions of Japanese religious sites, I aimed to

led me straight to the forest. There was a smattering of

explore the temple on its own terms: for the elegance of

new and old graves here. The falling snow had started toits buildings, the beauty of its surroundings, or the sense

stick, and there was only one set of tracks before mine:of peace it evokes – and, of course, for the shop-lined

the paws of an animal, maybe a fox, that wound adeptly

promenade that precedes any major Japanese temple.

through the graves and out into the forest beyond.

Kitamuki Kannondo’s promenade is a stone-paved street

Jorakuji’s neighbour, Bessho Shrine, matches thedipping into a natural valley. There were the expected

town’s temples in its encouragement of unimpededsouvenirs here, and much-needed snack food, but noth-exploration. Bessho Shrine’s torii of simple unpainted

ing that distracted from the Kannondo itself. It sits above

wood gives a more ancient impression than the typical

the streets, a seemingly ancient wood building cradled bybright red. The main building appears less like a shrine

a forest of tall pines. I strolled to the edge to look out uponthan a stage, open on both ends to allow unfettered views

the surrounding scenery. There was no sunset this time,

across the town. Like most of Japan’s shrines, Bessho

but instead mist that poured through the creases in the

Shrine is comprised of numerous small buildings andmountaintops. I was the only one rapidly snapping

stand-alone decorations, comprehensible only to thephotos; the other visitors were there to pray.

highly trained. To the rest of us, understanding each part

It’s only a 5-minute walk from Kitamuki Kannondo tomatters less than partaking in the atmosphere of peace

the famed Anrakuji Temple. The entrance to Anrakuji asks

they form. I wandered around structures of wood andfor a bit of effort: a steep stone staircase up to the mainstone. The snow fell only in the empty space in f ront ofgate, lined by those same tall pines. (For those who can’t

the main shrine. The precise definition of belief seemed

make the walk, there’s also a sloping roadway to the side.)

like a concern for other places.

It’s not a tiring trek, but it felt like a victory nevertheless,because suddenly I found myself in the midst of a meticulously cultivated temple garden. There’s a high woodenbell tower and a richly decorated temple hall. For those
who do believe – or want to try – Zen ascetic training

Jorakuji Temple

Kitamuki Kannondo

Bessho Jinja Shrine

Anrakuji Temple

sessions are available. I’ve seen breathtakingly beautiful
temples elsewhere in Japan, but only when squeezed
amongst crowds of tourists. Here, I met only one young
couple drifting about the temple, and an old priest manning the reception desk.
New snow started to fall as I made my way through agate at the side of the temple. The 300-yen ticket was the
only entrance fee necessary to visit Bessho Onsen’s
religious sites. The gate led me to a wide mountain path,and it took only a few steps up to feel that I was now
beyond even the place apart, in a new land of flaking
hinoki trees and snow-flecked rocks. The main attraction
here is the octagonal pagoda, the only one of its kind inJapan. I expected some elaborate tourist brouhaha tomatch the pagoda’s grandeur and National Treasurestatus, but what I found in front of me was a simple clearing deep in the forest. The pagoda stood, majestic yet

0304

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AND NATURE

B

Bessho Onsen and its surroundings are possessed of an

through the town. Dragonflies flit around the water in theJapan’s nature in the way that appeals to you.

unhurried, untroubled kind of beauty. It is the beauty ofautumn, and cicadas sing in the summer evenings. The

A relaxing night at a ryokan, and a well-balanced

become an explorer here. A peaceful stroll out of the town

the most quintessentially nostalgic Japanese scenery, aarea is dotted with lakes and ponds, some natural, somebreakfast of local delicacies, provides the energy for a day

centre brings you to Japan as few of us are able to see it

tranquil world that even to a newcomer holds the feelingthat form when the farmers release water f rom the riceout in the mountains. For the sport-lovers among us, atoday, a land of green fields and countryside paths. If youof a memory. It’s here that you can immerse yourself in

paddies. It’s a landscape that lets you imagine times longstay at Bessho Onsen makes for easy access to Nagano’s

want to go further afield, bikes are available for rental. See

the type of Japanese landscapes we see in the movies, theago, to see in f ront of you not just a body of water but a

popular skiing and snowboarding locations. The surround-

farmers cultivating fruits and vegetables as they have forlandscapes that inspired poets of old, the landscapes

reminder of another age.

ing forests bear a quality of mystical impenetrability, but ahundreds of years, and storef ronts unchanged f rom

Mountain treks, however, aren’t the only way toaverage tourists will only catch sight of f rom a train

Taking in the scenery is an experience in itself, andlively day hike reveals them to be not so impenetrable

decades past. Whatever direction you choose to wander

window. The nearby mountains and thick forests envelop

one can easily lose a day or two discovering the local mys-

after all. We’ve been sold an idea of Japan that is nothingin, there’s a good chance you’ll stumble upon one of the

my vision, but just outside the town are expanses of fields

teries. But for those seeking to wander, the mountains

more than robots and geisha, but the wilds of Nagano

area’s numerous temples and shrines. There’s no need toand rice paddies. When winter ends, flowers will colourand forests surrounding Bessho Onsen are more than justPrefecture offer us something different: mist and sunlight,

fear getting lost around here. Anyone you meet will be

the land: cherry blossoms, cosmos, hydrangeas, lotus

a stunning backdrop. There are no set courses or over-green and shadows, paths where we can meet fellow

happy to help, and anyway, isn’t getting lost the reason

flowers. In late spring, fireflies light up the river that runs

hyped activities at Bessho: it’s a place for you to explore

explorers and paths we can discover alone.

you came?

Misty mountains, quiet countryside

05

06

RELAXING BATHSI

It’s taken me eight pages to get to the town’s hot springs,

Curing the spirit

exploring the town in their yukata was a regular sight.

known in Japanese as ‘onsen’. Strange, I know, for a town

There are a total of three public bathhouses scattered

where the onsen are famous enough to be part of theacross Bessho Onsen, and each requires only the minimalvery name. But perhaps the town’s onsen need little

entrance fee of 150 yen. All are located in traditional Japa-

emphasis precisely because they’re already there in thenese buildings, reminiscent of temples in their architec-

name, flaunting their fame as if impatient for the recogni-

tural style. Entrance involves pressing the button on antion they deserve. The onsen of Bessho Onsen are theold-fashioned ticket vending machine much like thosemost ancient in the region, with well-known healing prop-

used to order ramen in a busy city. The sight of the build-erties – but if you know anything about Japan’s onsen

ings alone is captivating enough to disarm a visitor; theculture, you already guessed that last part. All Japanesesmooth warmth of the water reminded me yet again that

onsen lay claim to a healing property (or several). It can be

I was in a place apart from the ordinary.

dizzying to try to remember every health condition a

Onsen form the crux of Japan’s renowned wellness

given onsen is meant to heal, but you don’t have to. You

culture, but other wellness staples have also become inte-

just have to take a warm shower, wash yourself thorough-grated into the spiritual practices here. If you’re up to it,ly, and slide naked into the water.

make the most of the mountain air and clear sunlight

No impressive histories or healing claims will driftwith morning yoga or tai-chi at Bessho Shrine. As for me, I

through your mind in Bessho’s famed onsen, and neither

found I was up to doing little more than delighting in thewill any worries or concerns. I spent my first evening at

town’s beauty. For types like me, there’s an option unfa-

Bessho Onsen soaking in the outdoor baths of Uematsuya

miliar to many foreign visitors: the ‘ashi-yu’, or public foot-Ryokan. The stars above were clearer than any I’d seen inbath.

months. Outside, it was quiet; visitors had returned to

A common feature in Japan’s onsen towns, ‘ashi-yu’

their ryokan, and residents to their homes, or perhaps theare entirely free, easy to use, and require no public naked-

local pub. Persimmon f ruit f rom the autumn still hungness. One simply removes socks and shoes, and places

shrivelled on the trees above the bath. The water carried aone’s feet in the fresh running hot springs water. The only

faint sulphurous smell, but it was not overpowering. No

point to remember is to carry along a small towel withmatter how beautiful the place or exciting the travel, thewhich to dry your feet when you’re done. Bessho Onsen

body still needs relaxation.

has two ‘ashi-yu’: the prominently located Nanakuri, andBessho Onsen is, at the name implies, an onsen town,

the newer Oyu-Yakushi.

and that involves the opportunity to participate in one of

The snow was falling in full force when I decided toJapan’s unique cultural activities: the leisurely traversing

rest at Nanakuri. It was at first vaguely unsettling to stareof the town in a colourful yukata, taking the time to enjoy

at my bare feet against a white f rozen sky. Yet my whole

both hot springs and cultural sights. Most ryokan provide

body was warm – far warmer than I had felt in two layers

a wide selection of yukata for strolling about town, andof socks and heavy boots. The structure appeared like astaff will help dress you in your garment of choice. (Don’t

simple gazebo overlooking Kitamuki Kannon Temple, but

be embarrassed to ask for help – even many Japanese

to my weary feet, the hot water was both medicine andpeople, particularly those of the younger generation,

joy. In the warmer months, the ‘ashi-yu’ is a hub at which

aren’t able to wear yukata without assistance). The follow-

to meet visitors and locals alike. In the depths of winter,ing day, I was fitted with a yukata in my favourite red at

it’s pure healing.

Kashiwaya Ryokan. I wasn’t alone; despite the cold, visitors
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C

Classic local dishes feature in Bessho Onsen’s restaurants,

There’s a distinctly Japanese style of food and archi-

and perhaps the most well-known of these is Nagano’s

tecture that is seemingly ‘Western’, and referred to as

famed soba. For lunch, I followed a mountain path to one‘Western’, but resembles nothing Westerners typicallyof the town’s soba restaurants. The restaurant, like many

encounter – unless one happens to inhabit a quaintin Bessho, was covered in trinkets, memorabilia, and oddi-

Alpine hut. A café at the edge of town features anties I could not place. Most of these decorations turned

all-wooden interior and one wide table. A straw hat can beout to be local crafts, f rom wooden dolls said to bringseen through the door, and a window looks out on an

good luck to poles dangling with ribbon-like banners,

ivy-covered garden. It’s a cosy design, with a layout obvi-

ready even now for use in Bessho’s annual festival.

ously intended to encourage customers to speak to one

Although the restaurant specialises in soba, theanother. And speak to one another they do. I went inowner seemed equally eager to draw attention to his

seeking nothing more than a cup of coffee, but foundpainstakingly created udon. The udon noodles take three

myself engaged in lively conversations with the shop

hours to make, including two hours of stomping on theowner and three other customers. A rather vocal cat

dough with bare feet. No part of this labour-intensive

joined in the discussions. Everyone knew each other,udon goes to waste: the thick edges of the dough are

everyone knew the cat, and everyone was eager to get toretained and cooked along with the standard noodles.

know me. I was offered a lecture on the town’s future, a

These edges are named ‘Ittan-momen’ in reference to thetourist map, a f resh donut, and inexplicably, a piece of

sheet-like Japanese yokai spirit, or the cute character ofcheese. Despite the café’s old-fashioned style, the menu

the same in the well-known manga ‘Gegege no Kitaro’.

features the kind of trendy drinks one would expect fromThe noodles make for a refreshing and filling lunch, espe-

a Tokyo café.

cially when paired with crisp tempura. Meals come with

I ordered a walnut latte and honey toast. “Both theendless cups of bitter soba tea, a drink cursed with alatte and the toast contain honey,” the owner warned me.

name that does nothing to advertise its gently comforting“Do you mind lots of honey?”flavour.
After a full ryokan breakfast and a generous plate ofsoba, teatime was hardly necessary – and yet somehow
irresistible. There is a Japanese-style café located near the‘ashi-yu’ Nanakuri, which serves an array of drinks, along

TRADITIONAL FOOD

Devouring theatmosphere

I assured her that I’m fine with honey.
When she brought out the indulgent snack, sheplaced a mostly full jar of honey beside it.
“ J u s t i n c a s e t h e r e ’s n o t e n o u g h h o n e y,” s h e
explained.

with sweets ranging f rom homemade cakes to classic
Japanese treats like ‘cream anmitsu’ (agar jelly cubes
topped with fruits, sweet red bean paste, and ice cream).
The café gives you a literal taste of the nostalgic atmosphere even native Japanese city-dwellers long for. Water
is boiled over a wood-burning stove. The walls are mostly
windows, lightening the antique interior (and making forexcellent people-watching). I gobbled up the cream
anmitsu at preternatural speed, along with more than one
cup of warm green tea.
Similarly charming cafés pepper the neighbouring
streets. You can find stylish gelato restaurants, upscalecoffeeshops, and even coffee brewed with onsen water. A
bakery pairs first-rate bread with a minimalist wood-onconcrete aesthetic, and inside, a dining space offersorganic soups and sandwiches.
A tofu shop is also located along the town’s mainstreet. Its wall of windows grants passersby a rare glimpse
at tofu being made in the traditional way. I scurried in as
the snow began falling hard enough to obscure the scenery, to be met with a basket labelled ‘Healthy Donuts’. It’s
hard to believe that the ingredient of okara (soy pulp)
qualifies these bites of deep-f ried bliss as anything
resembling ‘healthy’, but they’re a delicious respite fromthe cold.

09

10

DRINKING LOCAL

Like you’ve
never tasted
bef oreA

As night fell in Bessho, I realised that the town’s quietude

Nearby, a warmly coloured Western-style bar serves

had led me to some false assumptions. I had assumed, for

cocktails amidst displays of cheeky vintage miscellany.

example, that this was the sort of town where places

Outside tables are available to enjoy drinks and snacks indidn’t stay open past 6, and where visitors followed anwarmer weather. Just across the street, another yakitori

unstated requirement to take dinner at one’s ryokan.

izakaya proves a popular haunt. It’s common in Japan to

Dining at the ryokan is indeed an appealing option: I wasenjoy a cool pint of beer before meals, but this izakaya

served a 9-course kaiseki meal in my room, every course

also stocks shochu, richly flavoured homemade plumas vivid in flavour as it was in colour. But if you choose tobrandy, and Bessho’s own wine. There’s an extensive foodforgo the ryokan meals – or you just want to go out for amenu here, with over 50 items ranging f rom Japanesedrink – you can taste a bit of life as the locals live it.

meals such as ramen and donburi rice bowls to side

A parade of yellow lights entices visitors into the yaki-

dishes and regional foods.

tori izakaya (pub specialising in grilled chicken). It’s not a

The regional delicacy, it turns out, is horse meat. It’s

big place – I counted four tables, plus the counter – but

not an appealing option, but it’s hard to see why it would

the size and slight smokiness creates a homelike feel.

be less justifiable than any other kind of meat. Here, horseStandard Japanese beers are available, as is local sake.

meat is added to soba or udon noodles, or simply f ried

There’s an eclectic selection of items scattered around: aand arranged on a plate in f ront of you. And then there

samurai hat, a wooden bear statue, letters f rom adoring

are the other regional staples. ‘Hachi-no-ko’ is the Japa-

fans, a rather cute plastic pig. The TV wasn’t on when I

nese word for bee larvae, which are stir-f ried and served

visited, but it had the look of a TV that would struggle

in a bowl, looking something like a dish of shrivelledwith colour reception. The owner was concentrating

earthworms. ‘Inago’, or grasshoppers, are given a teriyaki

diligently on each charcoal-grilled skewer, but neverseasoning, but retain a distinctly grasshopper-ish shape.

broke his string of cheery banter with the customers. This

Controlling the population of these bugs is necessary to

bar isn’t a place where one gulps down a skewer of yakito-

protect the rice crops they feed on, and they’re nutritious

ri before dashing off to catch the next train. It’s a place forto boot. As the locals see it, making them into food kills

meeting and chatting.

two birds with one stone. I not-so-politely refused theoffer, so I cannot comment on the taste. No, eating bugs is
not common practice in Japan. But Bessho Onsen playsby different rules.

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HISTORY OF BESSHOAs it wasA

At first, the town was just called ‘Bessho’. Early records

al customs. Worshipers flock to Kitamuki Kannon on New

describe it as a farming area, but one with profound con-Year’s Day for their first temple visit of the year. In Febru-

nections to spiritual practice. The reasons for the unusual

ary, spirited crowds turn out for the temple’s nationallyname include a mixture of Shinto mythology and Bud-

renowned Setsubun celebrations, which include partici-

dhist worship. In the Heian period, an expansive com-pants in goblin costumes. In the summer, events for thepound for Buddhist study was built nearby, and Besshofamily-centered holiday of Obon include taiko drumming

was the separate place, the place apart, reserved for theand dancing. At any time of year, Bessho Onsen provides

initiates’ education. Cultivation of the spirit is as vital tovisitors with a chance to see another side of Japan. But if

the history of this place as cultivation of the land.

you can catch one of the seasonal events, you’ll be able to

It wasn’t until the Showa period (from the 1920s to thetruly encounter the vibrancy of the region’s traditions.

1980s) that tourism came to Bessho. ‘Onsen’ was affixed

Even on ordinary days, any traveller to Bessho Onsen

onto the town’s original name to remind any potential

will find themselves steeped in history of another sort.

visitors of its renowned hot springs. The ryokan business

Roughly 450 years ago, the area surrounding the town

boomed; the hot springs were no longer famed sources of

was home to famed warrior Sanada Yukimura. A legend-healing for weary farmers, but a draw for visitors f rom

ary samurai of the Sengoku period, Yukimura is primarily

across the country and overseas.

famous for his roles in the Battle of Sekigahara (which he

Bessho’s popularity as a tourist destination helpedlost) and the Siege of Osaka (which resulted in his death).

ensure the preservation of the town’s most ancient cus-

His defeat, I was told, is precisely why he is beloved today.

toms. The annual matsuri (or festival) is practiced now as

Sanada Yukimura is known as a hero who used his excep-

it has been for over 500 years. The matsuri recalls thetional skill and dedication to fight even against over-When I retur ned to Bessho Onsen Station, the retro building was almost empty in the heavy snow. Warm andtown’s pervasive spirituality, as well as its agricultural

whelming odds. Legend has it that he was feared by all –free to look around, I noticed features I hadn’t noticed before. The painted ceiling, the wooden fans, the tinyroots: held every July, in the midst of the summer heat,even by the shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu himself – for his

refrigerator storing local drinks for sale. It was this last detail that drew my attention, and I r ushed to purchase athe colourful spectacle entreats a god for rain. Carefully

stalwart fearlessness.

tiny bottle of apple juice before the train depar ted. I nestled it in the pockets of my bag, one final treat for the

For another time

trip back.

rehearsed dances performed by the girls of the town

This fearlessness has made Sanada Yukimura a time-

involve the next generation in this tradition. The rain god

less hero. “Samurai hero number one,” a local insisted

I was at first the only passenger in the two-carriage train, but a few stations later the carriages began to fill.

at whom the matsuri is directed assumes the form of aenthusiastically. And throughout the town, odes to this

There were cheer fully chatting high-schoolers, adults in business wear, and seniors who seemed well accus-

9-headed dragon, and that mythical origin is reflected

adored hero abound. There are Sanada Yukimura goods

now through the matsuri’s parade of banners in vibrantto purchase, Sanada Yukimura-themed food to eat, andcloths. As the towering banners are carried up and downeven a Sanada Yukimura bathhouse. For solitary travellers

winding paths, they are said to resemble the shape of aspending a night at Uematsuya Ryokan, an entire Sanada

dragon curling its body around the mountain.

Yukimura room is available. There are drapes and a stone

The matsuri, however, is not the only splash of colour

hearth in Sengoku-period style, and a replica of the samu-

in Bessho’s yearly schedule. The town holds traditional

rai’s deer-horn hat. After I was served my elaborate mealcelebrations for many of Japan’s annual holidays, provid-

by the hearth, the owner himself came to visit – in fulling visitors with a glimpse into an intriguing set of cultur-

costume as Sanada Yukimura.

tomed to the ride. Nobody looked r ushed or impatient.
The sights of Bessho Onsen left me with an impressive collection of photos, but what occupies my memor y
is not the sights. It’s the things that don’t show up on a screen. The people of Bessho want to talk, they want to
let you into their lives, they want to share. The pride they feel for their town was palpable, and it’s easy to see
why. As I transfer red to the Shinkansen headed for Tokyo, I could already see the crowds forming, the parents
hurr ying, the businessmen on their phones. I was no longer in a place apar t, but I was already planning the next
trip back.

Date of issue:
Publishing:Total Planning:
Production:
Coordination:
Photographing:
Model & Writing:Suibokuga Ar t:
Design & Printing:

13

March, 2019
Besso Onsen Ryokan Association
Har unosuke Kurasawa
Sunbeam Co., Ltd.
Ai Yamazaki
Yu YamabeAnya Benson
Suiko Sakurai
Sunbeam Co., Ltd

Special Thanks to Bessho Onsen People.

*The contents published in this journal are those at the time of issue.
*We will prohibit unauthorized reproduction of this ar ticle and photos.
長野県地域発元気づくり支援金活用事業

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