ASIAN ALPINE E-NEWS
Issue No 59. January 2020

Contents
Future Climbing Paradise of West Sichuan Highlands“Gangga” and “Kawarori” massifs(Supplemented with Serthar Buddhist Institute)
Tamotsu (Tom) Nakamura
Page 2 ~ 251

TAMOTSU (TOM) NAKAMURA

Future Alpine Paradise
Alluring Rock Peaks “Gangga Massif”
andSacred Forbidden Mountains “Kawarori”(Supplemented with Serthar Buddhist Institute)
Political situation in Tibet is uncertain and sensitive. Since no foreigners are allowed toenter remote areas of my field, eastern Tibet, instead I organized an elderly survey
team from the Hengduan Mountains Club (Tom Nakamura, Tsuyoshi Nagai, TadaoShintani) to visit West Sichuan Highlands and Yunnan from late September to lateOctober, 2012.
The main objective was to photograph, map out and identify peaks of the Gangga massifand least-known Kawarori. The Gangga massif is just south of Ganzi town and theYalong Jiang, a northernmost extention of the Shaluli Shan range. Kawarori is a sacred
mountain of the Gongkara Shan range which is located east of the Gangga massif andYalong Jiang, northwest of the Daxue Shan range in the West Sichuan Highlands.
The Yalong Jiang is one of the large tributaries of the Yangtze River (Chang Jiang).
Reconnaissance of the Gangga massif was made in 2005 by a Japanese party from theNagano Prefecture. They were unable to bring back useful and informative record.
Later one 5,400m peak was climbed by an Austrian team.
The Alps of Tibet, mountains in eastern Tibet, is the last frontier in the greater rangesof the world. About 260 peaks over 6,000 meters high remain untrodden in
Nyainqentanglha East, Kangri Garpo and Gorge Country. On the contrary, unclimbed
mountains exceeding 6,000 meters are only more or less 10 summits in the West
Sichuan Highlands, a region of Tibetan inhabitants too.
Nevertheless, if you look at and focus on peaks lower than 6,000 meters, you will comeacross many fascinating and challenging peaks that attract and enchant climbers
seeking for unfrequented targets. Climbers have been rushing to rock peaks in theQonglai Mountains of now popular Mt. Siguniang and currently several climbers havestarted an attempt on alluring rock peaks in the Genyen massif north of the LitangPlateau. However, the Gangga massif and Gongkala Shan are still behind climbers’
attention. The Gangga massif is not a large mountains group and heights is 5,300 –
5,600 meters but provides fantastic rock peaks. Kawaroni are holy mountains guarded
by Tibetan monks and villagers, but a team of Scottish climber Bruce Normand climbed
with no permit.

1Our team arrived at Chengdu on the 26th September. Sichuan Earth Expedition Inc.
arranged for our trip as usually and Zhang Jiyue joined the team. We left Chengdu forthe mountains on the 28th September. We followed a newly built highway
Chengu-Xichang making a detour of Erlanshan Tunnel passage. Acceleration ofhighways construction in West China is amazing. We left the highway at Ximien anddrove northward along Dadu River, and then crossed a pass Xuemenkan 3948m down toKangding new town. The pass divides Minya Konka massif to southwest and Lamoshe
massif to northeast.
I must mention two factors of our survey trip. One is an extraordinarily bad weather inlate September to mid October and the other is a political situation. During our travelin two weeks, only one and a half days were considerably fine weather (but not perfectblue sky) though I could take advantages of a narrow chance to photograph themountains necessary for peaks identification. We stayed at Ganzi town only threenights during the good weather. On the 30th September we ascended to a pass Lazika
4,000 meters of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway for taking a panorama view of the Gangga
and Kawarori. From this pass Erich Teichman viewed Kawarori in 1918. On the 1stOctober we enter a valley just south of Ganzi town and ascended to a high pass
Zhuodana 4,820 meters leading to Baiyu County for reconnaissance of the central partof the massif. Remaining one week were spent for visiting interesting places including avillage with famous stone towers in Danba County and Mt. Siguniang.
The other problem was a restriction imposed on foreigners due to political uncertainty
in the region. The areas of Ganzi and adjacent counties were closed to foreigners inprinciples since spring of 2012 when Tibetan monks’ fire suicide happened. As after thespring, fire suicide took place intermittently, the authorities became nervous about
foreign visitors. Under such circumstances we could manage to travel through theofficially restricted areas with no difficulty and without any problem thanking to Jiyue’s
careful attention. We met only a couple of westerners and no Japanese throughout thetrip. We stayed at the Chunglu village now famous for historical stone towers in Danba.
We returned to Chengdu on the 10th October and flew to Kunming on the 11th fortraveling south Yunnan and north Laos to retrace footsteps of the 19th century French
Mekong River expedition. This is another story.

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Mountains of Kawarori were first reported by an early British consular officer andexplorer, Eric Teichman who traveled through the highlands in 1918.
[Passing Joro, the trail tops a rise and emerges on to rolling grasslands now patchedwith snow. Here we saw many gazelle. A long pull up hill with occasional short descentbrought us to the top of the She Chu – Yalung Divide, only about 13,000 feet high. As
one tops the last rise, the great range beyond the Yalung bursts into view, a glittering
mass of ice, snow and rock, culminating in the snow-clad mass of Kawalori (“peak ofeverlasting snow”), a sacred mountain of Nyarong, and one of the highest peaks inEastern Tibet. This great range is here pieced by the Yalung, and glimpses of it areoccasionally caught from the She Chu valley below Driwo.](Travels of a Conslar Officer in Eastern Tibet Erich Teichman, Cambridge 1922)
Teichman’s observation is accurate.
Kawarori of the Gongkara Shan range is located 30 km southeast of Garzi. Twoprincipal peaks Kawarori-I 5,992m and Kawarani-II 5,928m remain unclimbed. Local
Tibetanpronouncesit“Kawaruori”

butin

thisarticle“Kawarori”

applies.

Reconnaissance was first conducted by a Japanese party, Yamanashi Mountaineering
Federation in autumn of 1999 and then a British party first attempted on climbing inautumn of 2005. They set up the second camp at 4,800m. However hostile monks of alamasery forcibly opposed the British to continue climbing for religious reason becauseof Holy Mountains. They could not help to abandon the attempt. Another British
party came to Kawarori in 2007 but a climbing permit could not be obtained.
The Tohoku University Alpine Club planned to climb Kawarori in summer of 2011 in ahope that a climbing permit would be issued. After getting an official permit of theSichuan Mountaineering Association, they left Japan on 24th July. To their great upset,
however, their plan was turned down by a senior official, Deputy Director of Sports
Administrative Department, Garze Tibetans Autonomous Region at Kangding. He
excused that Kawarori was holy mountains to local Tibetans and would oppose anyone
to climb the mountains. Supposedly there might have been the other reason of recent
sensitive and uncertain situation as monks’ fire suicides, though the official was silent.
In fact, the public security bureau (PSB) was cautious and nervous about foreigners tocontact local villagers in Khamba territory.
Maps and pictures including aerial views follow from the next page:3

Punyu (Pomiu, Celestial Peak) 5,413 meters south face

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Gangga Massif – Panorama of central part, east face 1

Gangga Massif – Panorama of central part, east face 2

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Gangga – Peaks of southeastern rim, east face: 5,690m (left), 5,641m (central)

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Gangga – Peaks of southeastern rim, east face: 5,690m (left), 5,241m (right)

Gangga – Peak of southeastern rim, east face: 5,690m

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Gangga – Peak of southeastern rim, east face: 5,241m

Gangga – Central part: Peaks 5,492m (left) 5,286m (right) east face10

Gangga – Central part: (from left) Peaks 5,420m, 5,400m, 5,286m northeast face

Gangga – Central part: Gangga II 5,582m east face11

Gangga – Central part: Gangga III 5,525m (behind) Gangga I group (from left) Mainpeak 5,6880m, Central peak 5,670m, North peak 5,650m peak, A flock of hawks flying.

Gangga – Gangga I (from ledt) Main 5,588m, Central 5,670m, North 5,650m east face12

Gangga I group, Central 5,670m (left), North 5,650m east face viewed from Ganzi town

Gangga – Central part: Peak 5,318m west of Gangga I east face seen from Ganzi town

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Gangga – Central part: Peak 5,241m north face west of Ganzi town

Gangga – Central part: Pks 5,567m (left) 5,690m (right) seen from Pass 4,820m SW face

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Kawarori I 5,992m (left) Kawarori II 5,928m (center) SW face seen from Ganzi town

Kawarori I 5,922m (left) Kawarori II 5,928m (right) NW face seen from Ganzi town

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Kawarori I 5,992m north face

Kawarori II 5,928m north face seen from east of Ganzi town

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Chunglu village of stone towers in Danba 117Chunglu village of stone towers in Danba 218

Chunglu village of stone towers in Danba 3

Danba girl in Chunglu village

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Festival in Danba, dancing teamFestival in Danba

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Serthar Tibetan Buddhist Institute-Academy in 201322

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