ASIAN ALPINE E-NEWS
Issue No 81. January 2021

The first ascent of the southeast ridge of North Peakof Mt. Kailantkun, Taiwan (Stanley ridge).
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First ascend the southeast ridge of North Peak of Mt.
Kailantkun , Taiwan (Stanley ridge)
Article & photo：Tony Shaw
After a year of verification and confirmation, and no previous completion record wasfound，we decided to officially designate this route named "Stanley ridge"， tocommemorate one of the first climbers, Stanley Ng Ka Kit (Hong Kong) for his efforts
to explore the unknown world and promote climbing techniques.
The southeast ridge of North Peak of Mt. Kailantkun, Taiwan (Stanley ridge, YDS 5.9,3500-3705m) located at Sei Pa National Park territory.

Photo：The red line is climbing routes；The green line is the traditional route to thenorth peak of Kailantkun
Stanley Ng Ka Kit,1991-2019) Born in Hong Kong; studied in the UK, graduated from
System Engineering, University of Warwick；In June 2019, he lost his life in climbing
unclimbed peak in Pakistan.
With 9 years of climbing experience, he has successfully challenged the most difficult
ABO route. Lived in Chamonix, France, the sacred place of alpine climbing for 3 years,and completed more than 120 routes in the Alps.
He has completed 6 6,000-meter mountain climbs in Nepal and India, including a1

climbing unclimbed peak route. In addition, committed to putting European
experience on the high-altitude peaks of China, the Himalayas and Karakoram, andusing language, text and images to spread alpine climbing, including the savage travel
history ALLEZ LA... etc.
The first record climbing to the southeast ridge of North Peak of Mt. Kailantkun(Stanley ridge) （For base point location marking and easy communication, we lookat it from a distance, which looks like the V on the chest of a black bear. We
nicknamed this mountain "Black Bear Peak"）Mountain climbing：North Peak of Mt. Karantakan，3705 Meters，ranked number 18 Peaks over 3,000
meters high in Taiwan ，located in Heping Township,
Taichung, Taiwan ， Syue
Mountain Range，traditional
climbing routes holy ridge
must pass through it。
Climb preparation：
Because it is sunny insoutheast side，observed thesnow conditions for severalyears and collected photos
from many friends at
different times and angles，
theaveragesnow
accumulation period aftersnowfall is only about half amonth, and the application for climbing and preparation time are limited after thesnowfall is confirmed.
Therefore, we also prepared the technical ice axes, crampons, and snow piles forsnow ditch climbing; To avoid no snow causing falling rocks problem, also prepare
the rock-climbing CAM, Nuts, and spare pitons and other equipment.
2019/03/27 After gathering in Taipei, set off, overnight at 369 Cabin.
The next day, at 04:00 on the morning of March 28, we departed for the Black Forest
Shuiyuan Road.
Photo：from left Tony Shaw、Hong Huajun、Stanley Ng Ka Kit2

Climbing route：
We climbed the red route on the southeast face，four pitch；Green is the traditionalroute to the north peak of Mt. Karantakan；This picture shows the snow conditions inearly March，since climbing there was no snow in the snow ditch，When reaching thebase, the gravel keeps sliding，Rock face climbing was taking instead of theice-snow-rock terrain equipment that was originally planned for snow ditch climbing
was placed at the base.
Climbing Team：
Tony Shaw (Taiwan)；Hong Huajun (Hongfeng) (Taiwan)；Stanley Ng Ka Kit (Hongkong)
Weather forecast：（Climbing day the Syue Mountain Range）
High temp. (℃) ：15， Low temp. (℃) ：5， Beaufort scale：4（5.5 - 7.9m/s or
20 - 28km/h），wind direction： southwest， Relative humidity：67%，probabilityof precipitation： 10%，ultraviolet index：11+
Climbing itinerary：
2019/03/28，06：15 Start，09：45 pack the rope and climb the slope through thejuniper bush，10：15 Summit。
Starting point height： 3,500 meters, Climbing rating： YDS: 5.91
Climbing Pitch：pitch 1 40 meter south face， pitch2 50 meter Dinosaur ridge，pitch
3 約 40 meter juniper bush，pitch 4 30 meter cross east side up，last pitch pack therope and climb the slope through the juniper bushsummit 。
13then 150 meter later reach theUSA Sierra Club: free climbing rating system called Yosemite Decimal System (YDS)Name the route temporarily：Dinosaur ridge，Until March 28, 2020, this route wasofficially named “Stanley ridge”。
Comments：The climbing difficulty is lower than originally expected, but the panic index is higher,
the rock is very broken and there are often fallen rocks, but still can place protection
somewhat.
There are still many routes to be developed. It is recommended that other climbing
teams consider the fluctuations in the difficulty of the route during the climbing
season, and consider the impact of about 3,500 meters on physical fitness.

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Photo：From right Tony Shaw、Ng Ka Kit、Hong Huajun
Contributing：Jerry Chen；Equipment logistics support and encouragement of the mountainguide group in Waha mountaineering Club.
Instructor Cheng Chanlong 2019/3/13 10:00 am，Special assistance to go to theSnow Mountain Black Forest near 8.5k to take photo, confirm accumulated
snow and snowfall.
Liao Zhengqi: Lend pitons urgently for us to reserve.
Brother Lin Guowen: Provide the latest snow and weather information.
Hong Huajun: Climbing partners for many years, supporting all the way.
Stanley Ng Ka Kit: The most outstanding alpine climber in Hong Kong at present
with special friendship.
Others: In the past two years, friends who assisted in shooting or provided4

photos of different times and angles!

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