Unit 11. Engi Shiki and Classics 3:
Regional Produce—Food Offerings andTokusanhin
OGURA Shigeji, National Museum of Japanese History

SummaryThis unit focuses on the information in the Engi Shiki about the production, distribution, andconsumption of foodstuffs and what this information tells us about the public and state at thetime.
1. Research Perspectives
2. Food Offerings According to the Engi Shiki
3. Tips for Researchers
4. Phases in the Institutional Codification of Food Offerings
5. Details about the Management of Food, Regional Administrative Offering/
Production/ Storage and Supply Units
6. Examples of the Food Offerings in the Engi Shiki

1. Research Perspectives
Examine sources about the production, distribution, and consumption of food items to derive insights
about the public and the state at the time
The ancient sources include legal texts and ledgers. Bureaucratic documents are the focus of this analysis,
and these sources have to be utilised to understand the background context to the state’s fiscal policies.

You need to reassess the information (verification), considering the properties of the food items and thenatural conditions of the production regions.


It is useful to focus on tokusanhin 特産品 (products associated with a particular region), particularly
food products (other than rice or other cereal grains)
Consider the historical conditions (production techniques that added perceived value to the products, thedistribution networks) and what the consumption of the products tells us about social hierarchies.
Food has fleeting production-consumption cycles compared to non-perishable prestige products (high-end
fabric, goods for maintaining one’s dignity).
Sense of season was present. With seasonal harvesting and processing, you can recreate the production
cycle and processing conditions.
Focus on the consumption hierarchy and consumption settings for a given food item. This information may
tell you about how perceived value varied by food item and production regions.

2. Food Offerings According to the Engi
Shiki
● The Engi Shiki specified what foodstuffs each province and region offered
The information differs in some ways from the descriptions of everyday diet in sources
like the Man’yōshū (which have a few references to national production/consumption)*.
The information is of interest to ethnologists, food scientists, fisheries scientists,botanists, and others.
* Man’yōshū is always referred to for describing food culture in a historical context.
● Regions offered up local produce as a form of tax (zeimotsu 税物). Oftentimes, thelocal produce was labelled after the locality of origin—e.g., Oki no awabi 隠伎鰒(‘awabi from Oki’).
The Engi Shiki specified how each food item was to be used. For example, some fooditems were to be used as shinsen 神饌 (food offered to deities at a shrine), some were
to be used as kugo 供御 (food offered as tribute to the emperor), and some were
provided for sechie 節会 (seasonal imperial ceremonies).
It specified how each responsible state department should procure and manage thevictuals to be consumed each year at key state events.

● The Engi Shiki contains a plethora of information about aquatic delicacies. In theancient period, delicacies were known as tametsu-mono 多明物 or aji-mono 味物; inthe medieval period, they were known as bibutsu 美物.

Vegetables, however, were not classified as chō 調, yō 庸, or chūnan 中男 (Shukei
Shiki), but the Zaizen Shiki specified the produce of imperial meals, directly procured
from imperial estates as kugo.

→Thus, with its precise information on production, transportation, storage, and consumptionof food, the Engi Shiki serves as a foundational, primary source on national food production
and consumption.

3. Tips for Researchers● For source verification, you need to identify each food item and their properties.
Consider what the requirements would have been at each stage (harvesting, processing,transportation, storage, cooking).
Take an interdisciplinary approach. Incorporate insights from disciplines other thanhistory and use reconstruction experiments.
● You need insight into history and other academic areas when approaching the Engi
Shiki.
Use the latest variorum. Note inter-manuscript variations and kaki-ire notes.
Some information is omitted, including matters that would have been taken as read at thetime or were unnecessary for executing duties. Fill in these blanks by referring to otherhistorical sources or incorporating insights from other disciplines.
The Engi Shiki includes customs that were in effect in the 8th and 9th centuries but wereno longer in effect during the time of their compilation. This creates a challenge for theunderstanding of the descriptive information in terms of their historic context.
The content reflects the needs of the ritsuryō state. It includes no information about local
production for local consumption.
You need to consider the nature of each shiki (administrative department) on performing
the duties and the settings and use in which the victuals would have been procured andconsumed (in the ancient period, food distribution was driven less by market forces andmore by the state-mediated taxation system).
When victuals were labelled after a region, does that mean they were tokusanhin?
(Were the names like proper nouns, specifying that a particular food ‘brand’ wasassociated with the eponymous region?)We should not take these labels at face value and leap to the conclusion that such victuals
were tokusanhin. First, we must consider why a victual may have been labelled after aregion.
Thus, you must verify the historical backdrop to the region and its produce and compare
the produce to what we now know as tokusanhin.
For the Nara period, you would need to collate the information in the Engi Shiki, withsources such as the Buyaku Ryō 賦役令 and mokkan tablets.

4. Phases in the Institutional Codification ofFood Offerings
Yamato sovereignty phase● Food was offered as a tribute. Local heads would present local produce (known as
mitsuki) to the ōkimi (the Yamato overlord; the emperor) to express theirsubmission.
Consumption of the offered food symbolised the emperor’s sovereignty over the regionof production (osukuni 食国).
● Under the ritsuryō tax system, offerings were specified at a kuni 国 level and gun 郡
level (before the ritsuryō, offerings were required from each kuni-no-miyatsuko 国造, which was equivalent to the ritsuryō-era gun).
Cloth offerings were specified in the Buyaku Ryō 賦役令. They included mi nonoashikinu 美絁濃 (coarse cloth from Mino), mōdano 望陀 (cloth from Mōda-gun in
Kazusa-no-kuni), azuma yū 東木綿, and Aki no yū 安芸木綿 (cloth from Aki-no-kuni).
(Buyaku Ryō 1: Chō Kenashiginu 調絹絁)

Ritsuryō State phase● Food was now offered up as a form of tax. Commodities supplied to meet the state’s
demands (for shinsen, imperial meals, sechie banquets, and so on)
The commodities that were levied included the following:chō zōmotsu 調雑物 as specified in the Buyaku Ryō. chō zōmotsu were non-clothcommodities levied from outside the capital region. (see Source 1);chūnan sakumotsu 中男作物 were commodities produced by workforces comprising
men aged 17 to 20, as specified in the 717 (Yōrō 1) entry; andnie 贄 (victuals for imperial meals). The victuals comprised some chō zōmotsu andchūnan sakumotsu, together with zakkuko 雑供戸 from the capital region and kyōyaku
zōmotsu 交易雑物 (barter cereals), and produce offerings from provinces outside thecapital region.
● Kyōyaku (barter) goods: Procured at the kuni level, the source of revenue being
reserves of cereal grains (stocks of so 祖 and suiko 出挙) in each kuni.
Buyaku Ryō 7 (Domō jō 土毛条):
When using local produce as a temporary expedient, always use the current price of
the kuni in question. Determine the current price based on the guntō 郡稲.
凡土毛臨時応用者。並准当国時価。価用郡稲。
Temporary expedient (臨時). There were many cereal crops. Gun level.
Guntō were classified and managed in various ways according to their use. However, the734 (Tenpyō 6) measure, known as kantō kongō 官稲混合, unified the guntō and otherlocal sources of revenue under the tax category of shōzei 正税. The crops would now be
managed at a kuni level. Consequently, many more kyōkaku zōmotsu were procured fromthe kuni.

Heian era (9th century)● With the decline of the sekichō registry system from the 9th century, the goods andquantities each kuni offered became fixed
The Engi Shiki stipulated what each kuni would offer (see the details about kyōkaku
zōmotsu in the minbu volume, about tax items in the shukei volume, and about the mi-nie
in the kunai and naizen volume)
From the end of the 9th century and onward, authority over tax collection wasconcentrated with the senior kokushi 国司. Production in each kuni was organised on thepremise that the products would be collected as tax at the kuni level.
See Shinsarugakuki 新猿楽記, composed in the mid-11th century, by Fujiwara no
Akihira.

5. Details about the Management of Food,
Regional Administrative Offering/
Production/ Storage and Supply Units● The Buyaku Ryō did not specify which regions should supply what victuals.
Only one food item in the Buyaku Ryō is labelled after a locality: Ōmi no funa 近江鮒
(carp from Ōmi). Ōmi was a region that had enjoyed a close connection with the court,
since before the time of the ritsuryō, as exemplified by Ōmi Ōtsu Palace. Under the
ritsuryō, Ōmi was classified as a kuni outside the capital region (kigai 畿外) (for kuni
inside the capital region, there were no requirements for the supply of aquatic foodstuffs);
this might explain why Ōmi was specially designated as the source of chō zōmotsu, to belevied as kugo tribute. According to the Engi Shiki, Ōmi produced nie for mikuri 御厨(kitchens where shinsen were prepared).
● Goods all flowed upwards toward the central government. Transportation wasorganised at the kuni level (Buyaku Ryō 3: Chōyō no mono), while production wasorganised at the gun or gō level.
Regarding cloth, Buyaku Ryō 1 (Chō Kinu Ashiginu 調絹絁) states ‘随二郷土所一レ出’.
According to the shūge 集解 (collected annotations) for this article 1, this means thatcloth production was to be organised at the gun level. The shūge quotes the kyaku for
Yōrō 1, 2nd of Month 12, which pertains to varieties of textiles, as follows: ‘其輸レ絁郷
…者。以二二丁之庸一成レ段’. This suggests that cloth production was to be organised at
the gō level. Buyaku Ryō 2 (調皆随近) states as follows: ‘調皆随近合成’. According to
the shūge, this means that cloth items were to be assembled at the gun or kuni level.
713 (Wadō 6): The emperor orders the compilation of fudoki 風土記. Each kuni is asked
to survey and report on the situations concerning in each gun (see Source 2).
730 (Tenpyō 2): Kokushi and gunji are encouraged to present ‘rare delicacies’(mezurashiki ajiwai 珍奇しき口味) to the court (see Source 3).
Izumo-no-kuni Fudoki (established 733, Tenpyō 733) listed the goods produced in eachgun in Izumo-no-kuni and referred to ‘exquisite goods’ (yūhin 優品) (see Source 4).
The details on the products are exhaustive. Many products were not supplied to thecourt—they were not evaluated in comparison to products from the other kuni.
Thus, state-led surveys of production regions were organised at the gun level, while
goods supplied to the court were organised at the kuni level (with the exception of the minie 御贄 offerings for the mikuri).

● The Engi Shiki states that shukeiryō 主計寮 and naizenji 内膳司 would inspect the
victuals from each kuni and pass them on to the official in charge of storage or theofficial in charge of offerings.
● For food items in the Engi Shiki that were labelled after a region, the details
concerned only the use of these food items. Among the lists of foods to be offered(kyōyaku zōmotsu listed in minbu shiki, the zeimotsu listed in the shukei shiki, themi-nie from each kuni listed in the kunai and naizen shiki), all the food labels are
based on how the food is processed, as opposed to where the food is from.
The only exceptions were tanra fugu 耽羅鰒 and iku-jio 生道塩.
Food items labelled after a region primarily served an administrative purpose. The
various kuni were assigned fixed victuals to supply according to the intended usage, and thenames of these kuni were incorporated into the culinary lists used by the officials in charge ofofferings. This might explain why they ended up in the shiki articles. Although people at the timelikely had a notion of tokusanchi 特産地 (regions associated with production), it is far lesscertain as to whether people had a notion of tokusanhin.

6. Examples of Food Offerings in the Engi
Shiki
Katsuo (skipjack tuna)
Katsuo was procured from ten Pacific-facing kuni to the south of Awa.
Katsuo 堅魚 (ara-katsuo 麁堅魚), ni katsuo 煮堅魚, katsuo no irori 堅魚煎汁
● Migratory fish: migrates to the north in spring (haru-gatsuo 鰹初) and to the south
in autumn (modori-gatsuo 戻り鰹) (shin-gatsuo; multiple migration routes)
Fished from spring to summer, lean haru-gatsuo are best for katsuo-bushi production.
Fished in coastal waters. Waters off Awa, far from the Kuroshio Current and also the
Bungo coast, provide good fishing grounds, owing to the Kuroshio counter-current,
which creates a warm climate.
● Ara-katsuo: Made by cutting and drying two dorsal loins and two belly loins. Nikatsuo: Made by cutting, boiling, and drying loins. Namari-bushi, made by boilingand drying. According to a mokkan tablet, cuts of both katsuo and ni-katsuo
weighed 80g each on average. Notable for having a thickness and fattiness ideal fordrying. Distinctive fatty parts. Passing through Suruga Bay are juvenile katsuo thatare lean, with less than 2 kg of fat. Was this a place of production?

● Katsuo no irori: A seasoning made by reducing the broth of ni-katsuo. Used as adip. A seasoning that predated dashi.
According to tradition: Carp miso is served in a cold soup. The meat is grated into amound on the plate. Serve with dashi (according to some, this should be irori;according to others, it should be watairi-no-shiru).
或説に云う、寒汁に鯉味噌を供す。鯉の身をおろして皿に盛りてまいらす。
タシ汁 〈或説イロリニテアルベシ、或説ワタイリノシル云々〉にて合うべし(Chūjirui Iki 厨事類記, a 13c cookbook)Konbu (kelp)
Mutsu is the only kuni that supplies this, and they are only ever used as offerings in hōe(Buddhist requiems) or as kugo tribute (Daizen Shiki part 2, Naizen Shiki).
Cultivated in the region extending from northern Tohoku to Hokkaido. The earliest
reference to this item was in 715 (Reiki 1).
The Shoku Nihongi entry for 715 (Reiki 1), Month 10, Teichō, reads as follows:…and Suga no Komahiru of the Emishi saith: “Since the time of my ancestors, thisterritory hath offered konbu as tribute to the Yamato court every year without fail.”
蝦夷須賀君古麻比留等言さく、先祖より以来、昆布を貢献れり。常にこの地に採りて、年時闕かず

Sake (salmon)
Supplied by nine kuni northwards of the San’in region, where the rivers flow into the Japan Sea(salmon still spawn in these rivers today)● From the medieval period, Echigo, the northernmost of the kuni, was associatedwith salmon production. Shinano River yielded far more salmon than the otherrivers. During the medieval period, shiohiki sake (salted salmon) became a specialty.
● Nama-sake (fresh salmon) used as mi-nie (as mentioned in Kunai Shiki 45 [国例貢御贄条] and Naizen Shiki 42 [年料御贄条]) were sourced from the kuni near Kyoto.
Nama (raw) in this case may suggest that the salmon were gutted and cured (withoutboiling, filleting, or drying) before transportation. The shiohiki sake and aramakizake (salted whole-body salmon) of later times used plenty of salt and a drying
process.

Awabi (abalone)
Awabi (abalone): Supplied by 21 kuni. There are around 30 varieties of processed awabi, eight ofwhich were named after a kuni. Some varieties were named after a broad, kuni-spanning expanseof territory.
● Oki, Awa (source of azuma awabi 東鰒), and Shima supplied vast quantities of
abalone as kugo tribute throughout the year. These three kuni were under the swayof the Takahashi and Azumi people, who had managed imperial meals since before
the time of the ritsuryō. Additionally, Awa (source of azuma awabi) and Shima(source of shima awabi 島鰒) supplied the victuals used in the Daizenshiki ceremony
for the food deity Miketsu-shin, whom these kuni enshrined (Daizen Shiki part 1[Shisai shunryō 四春料祭条]).
Pre-ritsuryō names of kuni and regions: By the late 7th century, they were named after
the parties who offered the products or the regional administrative units that hadorganised such offering.
Likewise, some food items derived their name from the Tsukushi no Ōmikotomochi 筑紫
大宰, Azuma-no-kuni 東国, Nagato-no-kuni (to which a superior governor was assigned,
as with Mutsu during the reign of Emperor Tenmu), and Awa, which was traditionally asource of the kugo tribute offered by the Awa 安曇 people.
Azuma awabi, Oki no awabi, Sado awabi 佐渡鰒, and Izumo awabi 出雲鰒 reflected aninterterritorial consciousness that underpinned the idea that the emperor has dominion
over the kuni.

Hoya (ascidiacea)
Mikawa-no-kuni provided kōkyaku product as kugo tribute by (Naizen Shiki 45[Mikawa-no-kuni hoya jō 参国河保夜条]. Wakasa-no-kuni provided a mix (mazezushi 交鮨) of igai 貽貝 (Korean mussel, native to Japanese waters) and hoya (nodetails on how it was consumed; references can be found in Tosa Nikki 土佐日記).
There is no evidence that the product circulated as tokusanhin of the two regions
from the medieval period.
Commonly consumed today are ma-boya (sea pineapples) cultivated northwards of
the Oga and Oshika peninsulas. There is also information suggesting that they werealso cultivated in the Japan Sea coast and Mikawa Bay. It could be Styela clava,
which have a wider distribution (they are also consumed in South Korea).

Namako (sea cucumber)
Seven kuni supplied dried iriko 熬海鼠.
Konowata 海鼠腸 (salted entrails) was offered as kugo tribute. During the medieval
period, it was prized as a delicacy from the Noto region.
No references to iriko are found among 8th century mokkan tablets. A 730 (Tenpyō
2) entry mentions that this ‘rare delicacy’ (mezurashiki ajiwai) was offered to thecourt (Source 3), suggesting that it was being systematically offered as kugo tributeat that time.
Production was concentrated in Noto. The supply burden was shared between
Wakasa, a major salt-supplying kuni, and the kuni in Hokurikudō that were major
suppliers of salmon.
Despite being a region where abalone were produced, Noto was never specified as aregion for supplying abalone as kugo tribute.
The factors that established regions of production included climate (such as
distribution of natural resources), distance from capital, and the state’s
arrangements.
Victuals offered as kugo tribute tended to become tokusanhin in later times. This
reflected a trend where certain regions became fixed production regions for certain
foodstuffs. It also reflected social status. In the medieval period, production anddistribution systems were reorganised amid changing tastes (after dashi started
being used for recipes), the rise of the ryōen ryōshu 荘園領主 (lords of manors), andthe rise of buke 武家 (warrior households). The changing market conditions, in turn,transformed the production, distribution, and consumption of foodstuffs. Foodstuffs
continued to be used for banquets (or were used for banquets to an even greater
extent than before). Multiple lords of a given kuni would offer the same foodstuff,
giving rise to a culture of offering, and helping embed the notion of kuni-specifictokusanhin.

Sources
Source 1.
Buyaku Ryō 賦令役 1: Chō Kenashiginu 調絹絁The chō cloth items, whether katori, kinu, ito, wata, and nuno, should be in accordance with thelocality. If the chō were to be delivered as zōmotsu, it should be 10 kin of iron and 3 ku (a third

of a kin) of hoes. Three to of shio (salt); 18 kin of awabi (abalone); 35 kin of katsuo (skipjacktuna); 32 kin of tsui (a kind of shellfish); 26 kin of iriko (sea cucumber entrails); 50 kin ofkusagusa no uo suwayari (salted fry); 100 kin of kusagua no hoshīo (dried fish); 48 kin ofmurasaki-nori (a variety of seaweed); 160 kin of kusagua no mowa (algae); 130 kin of wakame(a variety of seaweed); 260 kin of arame (different varieties of seaweed); 130 kin of miru (green
sea fingers); 120 kin of korumowa (a species of Gelidiaceae); 6 to of kusagusa no kitai (dried
fish meat); 8 to of manakashi (seaweed roots); 1 koku of kachime (dried and ground seaweed); 1
koku and 2 to of nebiru (a kind of garlic); 1 koku and 2 to of asasuki (a kind of garlic); 2 to ofawabi sushi; 3 to of igai (Korean mussel) sushi; 3 to of ou no niraki (pickled clams); 6 to of nishino kabuchi (shellfish pickled with heads cracked open); 6 to of ikai no shiriori (shellfish pickledwith rear cracked open); 1 koku of shitatami (conch); 6 to of uni (seaurchins); 6 to of kasei(needle-less seaurchins); 5 to of kusagusa no sushi (pickled fish); 5 to of Ōmi no funa 近江鮒
(carp from Ōmi-no-kuni); 4 to of nishio no ayu (boiled salted sweetfish); 25 kin of nikatsuo; 4
shō of katsuo irori. Two jichō (labourers aged 60–65) should correspond to one seichō (labourer
aged 21–60), as should four chūnan (labourers aged 17–20).

Source 2.
Shoku Nihongi 続日本紀: 730 (Tenpyō 2), Month 4, Kasshi 甲子
Mezurashiki ajiwai (rare delicacies) produced in the kuni are not offered up as tribute because
the governors of the kuni or gun would conceal them. In some cases, they are not offered up
because of scarcity. Henceforth, even in times of scarcity, these delicacies must be offered up
as tribute without fail, using all means of transportation, not limited to relay stations.
Source 3.
Shoku Nihongi: 730 (Wadō 6), Month 5, Kasshi
Make a detailed list of all the goods produced in that gun, such as silver, copper, colours,
grasses, trees, fowl, beasts, fish, bugs, and so on. Record in the chronicle and report to thethrone the fertility of the sod, the origin of the names of each mountain, river, and plain, and the
local legends and tales of strange wonders.
Source 4.1.
Izumo-no-kuni Fudoki 出雲国風土記: Tatenui-gun
The miscellaneous items in the northern sea are as described in Akika-gun. However, there is nofiner murasaki-nori than that grown in Tatenui-gun.
Source 4.2
Izumo-no-kuni Fudoki: Izumo-gun

The kusagusa items in the northern sea are generally the same as that in Akika-gun. However,there is no finer murasaki-nori than that grown in Tateniui-gun.
Sources
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Kanō Hisa 狩野久. “Kashiwate no Omi to Azami no Muraji no zeryoku ken: Kodai ni okeru awabi noshūshu ni tsuite” 膳臣と阿曇連の勢力圏―古代における鰒の収取について―. In Hakkutsu moji gakataru: Kodai ōken to rettō shakai 発掘文字が語る 古代王権と列島社会. Yoshikawa Kōbunkan, 2010.9(Orig. pub. 1995).
Miyahara Takao 宮原武夫. “Azuma awabi to Oki no awabi” 東鰒と隠岐鰒. In Kodai Azuma-no-kuni nochōyō to nōmin 古代東国の調庸と農民. Iwanami Shoten, 2014.8 (Orig. pub. 2000).

Foodstuffs in the Engi Shiki that were named after a region (kuni)
Palace names are in parenthesis in cases where the corresponding food item in the Engi Shiki
was not named after the kuni.

Placename

Shima

Food item

AbaloneName in
Buyaku Ryō(8c)Name in Engi
Shiki (10c)–Shima no awabi 島鰒

Use

Shinsen

Daizen Shiki jō 大膳式上 1:
Shisai shunryō jō 四祭春料条

–

–

–

Shinsen,Azuma no awabi 東鰒 kugo,
banquets

Shijisai jō 四時祭上, Rinjisai
臨時祭, Saiō 斎宮, Sai’in 斎
院, Inyō 陰陽, Daigaku 大学,
Daizen jō ge 大膳上下, Ōi 大
炊, Naizen 内膳, Shuzen 主膳

–

–

–

Awa 安房, Awa no
kusagusa no awabi 安房雑鰒Saigū Shiki 斎宮式 78: Chō yō
zōmotsu jō 調庸雑物条; Naizen
Shiki 内膳式 19: Kugo getsuryō
jō 供御月料条–––

Daizen Shiki jō 大膳式上 8:
Sono-kami zakkyūryō jō 薗韓神
雑給料条; 9: Hirano zakkyūryō
jō 平野雑給料条

–

–

–

–

Awa 安房Abalone–AbaloneSado no awabi 佐渡鰒 Banquets

Abalone

–

Oki

Izumo
NagatoOki no awabi 隠伎鰒

Shinsen,kugo,banquets

Saigū 斎宮, Zenso daijisai 践祚
大嘗祭, Genba 玄蕃, Daizen
Oki no awabi 隠岐鮑shiki jō ge 大膳上下, Naizen 内
膳, Shuzen 主膳–

Banquets

Naizen Shiki 内膳式 16:
Gogatsu itsuka jō 五月五日条–

Izumo no awabi 出雲鰒

–

–

–

Abalone–Nagato no awabi 長門
Kugo鰒

Naizen Shiki 内膳式 16:
Gogatsu itsuka jō 五月五日条

–

–

–

Abalone–Daizen Shiki jō 大膳式上 16:
Sekiten betsu kyūryō jō 釈奠別
Awa no awabi 阿波鰒 Shinsen, kugo 供料条; Naizen Shiki 内膳式
16: Gogatsu itsuka jō 五月五日
条

–

–

–

Daizen Shiki jō 大膳式上 16:
Sekiten betsu kyūryō jō 釈奠別
供料条

–

–

–

Abalone–

SaikaidōCarpŌmi no funa 近江鮒

Tsukushi no awabi 筑紫鰒

ShinsenŌmi no 近江: funa :鮒,hishio funa 醤鮒, sushi Kugo,
funa 鮨鮒, ajishio funa banquets
味塩鮒

–
Noto

Mackerel(Suō)

Mackerel(Echigo)Noto no saba 能登鯖

Seaweed (konbu)(Tango)Seaweed(wakame)(Izumo)Seaweed (nori)

Naizen Shiki 内膳式 19: Kugo
getsuryō jō 供御月料条;
Shuzen Shiki 主膳式 2:
Getsuryō jō 月料条 (Shukei
Shiki jō 主計式上 39: Noto-nokuni jō 能登国条)––

Ōmi no funa 近江鮒

–(Shukei Shiki jō 主計式上 57:
Suō-no-kuni jō 周防国条)

Suō no saba 周防:鯖–Suō no saba 周防:鯖–Echigo no 越後: sake鮭, Ireko 内子, keiji 鮭
Kugo児, sewata 背腸,
suwayari 楚割(Shukei Shiki jō 主計式上 41:
Echigo-no-kuni jō 越後国条;
Naizen Shiki 内膳式 42:
Nenryō mi-nie jō 年料御贄条)

Echigo no sake 越後
鮭–Echigo no shiohiki 越後塩引

Mutsu 陸奥: konbu 昆布, hirome 広昆布,
hosoki konbu 細昆,
Kugoyori konbu 縒昆布,nahime 索昆布(Minbu Shiki jō 民部式下 63:
Kōkyaku zōmotsu jō 交易雑物条; Kunai Shiki 宮内式 45:
Reiku mi-nie jō 例貢御贄条;
Naizen Shiki 内膳式 42:
Nenryō mi-nie jō 年料御贄条)––

Uga no konbu 宇賀昆布 1

Tango no wakame 丹
後海藻(Shukei Shiki jō 主計式上 44:
Tango-no-kuni jō 丹後国条)Izumo 出雲: murasakinori 紫菜/紫苔(Shukei Shiki jō 主計式上 48:
Izumo-no-kuni jō 出雲国条;
Shuzei Shiki jō 主税式上 65:
Izumo Shiō-ji jō 出雲四王寺条)
Shukei Shiki jō 主計式上 16:
Owari-no-kuni jō 尾張国条;
Daizen Shiki ge 大膳式下 1:
Kaki-ire note in Tōji, Nakadai
東寺中台 manuscript

–

–

–
Salt

–

Suō no saba 周防:鯖Salmon(Mutsu)

Kugo(Saigū 斎宮, Shukei jō 主計上,
Ōmi no funa 近江鮒
Kunai 宮内, Naizen 内膳)––

Owari2Oki no awabi 隠岐鮑

AbaloneAwa 阿波

(Ōmi)

Kugo

–

Sado

Name in
Yoshinashigoto story
Name inin Tsutsumi
Name in Teikin ŌraiShiki (article/entry) Shinsarugakuki
Chūnagon(late 14c to early 15c)
(11c)
Monogatari (mid 11c
to 13c)Iku-jio 生道塩Buddhistoffering3

Ama-no-hashi-date no Tango
Tango no me 丹後和
no wakame 天の橋立の丹後
布
和布

–

–

Izumo-no-ura no amanori 出
雲の浦の甘海苔

–

–

–

–

–
Kii

Salt

Awaji

Salt

TōtōmiOranges (Citrus
leiocarpa)

Kii no shio 紀伊塩/紀
伊国塩
Kugo

Daizen Shiki ge 大膳式下 16:
Nenryō jō 年料条; Zōshu Shiki
造酒式 6: Kii-no-kuni no shiojō 紀伊国塩条 (Shukei Shiki jō
主計式上 59: Kii-no-kuni jō 紀
伊国条)

–

–

–

Kugo

Naizen Shiki 内膳式 6:
Jinkonjik jō 神今食条 (Shukei
Shiki jō 主計式上 60: Awajino-kuni jō 淡路国条)

–

–

–

Tōtōmi no kōji 遠江甘Kugo子(Kunai Shiki 宮内式 45: Reiku
mi-nie jō 例貢御贄条; Daizen
Shiki ge 大膳式下 54: Kōshin
kashi jō 貢進菓子条)–

Koyama no kōji tachibana こ
山の柑子橘

–

Tanba 丹波: ama-guri
甘栗子, hira-guri 平栗 Kugo
子, kachi-guri 搗栗子(Shukei Shiki jō 主計式上 43:
Tanba-no-kuni jō 丹波国条;
Kunai Shiki 宮内式 45: Reiku
mi-nie jō 例貢御贄条; Daizen
Shiki ge 大膳式下 54: Kōshin
kashi jō 貢進菓子条)

Tanba no kuri 丹波栗Ikaruga-yama no edaguri 斑鳩
山の枝栗 (Tanba-no-kuni)–

Shinano no nashi 信濃
Kugo
梨子(Kunai Shiki 宮内式 45: Reiku
mi-nie jō 例貢御贄条; Naizen Shinano no nashi 信
Shiki 内膳式 42: Nenryō mi-nie 濃梨子
jō 年料御贄条)

Meukoku kamishi no Shinano
no nashi 妙香合子の信濃梨––
Awaji no shio 淡路塩

–

–
Tanba

Chestnuts

ShinanoPears

WakasaBeech nuts
(Castanopsis)

Bingo

Liquor

–Saikaidō

Rice

–
4

–

–

Wakasa no shī

Mikata-no-kōri no wakasa no
Wakasa no shī 若狭椎shī 三方の郡の若狹椎

–

–

–

Bingo sake 備後酒–

Tsukushi no yone 鎮
西米–

Tsukushi-gome 筑紫穀

Notes
1. This was the makonbu 真昆布 produced in Hakodate.
2. The exact location was Iku‐gō 生道郷 in Chita‐gun 智多郡, Owari‐no‐kuni 尾張
国.
3. This is stated only in one manuscript. In that manuscript, it appears in Daizen
Shiki ge 大膳式下 1: Kaki‐ire note in Tōji, Nakadai 東寺中台.
4. In the Buyaku Ryō, liquor was named wasasa 吉備醅/吉備酒 (Buyaku Ryō 賦役令
35: Kōkenmotsu jō shūkai 貢献物条集解). The product also features in
Man’yōshū 554: “Furuhito no tama he shimetaru kibi no sake” 古人の 賜へしめたる
吉備の酒.
Shinsarugakuki 新猿楽記
The fourth son, Lord Shirō, is an exemplary retainer. […] There are no places in the sixty-odd
kuni that he has not seen. […] [His residence] is most bountiful, being full of produce from every
kuni. There is silk from Awa (Awa no kinu 泡絹); silk floss from Echizen (Echizen no wata 越前綿); eight-jō bolts of cloth from Mino (Mino no hachijō 美濃八丈) as well as persimmons (kaki柿) from there; patterned silk cloth from Hitachi (Hitachi no aya 常陸綾); finely woven silkfrom Kii (Kii no katori 縑); spotted cloth from Kai (Kai no madara nuno 甲斐班布); pongee
from Iwami (Iwami no tsumugi 石見紬); paper from Tajima (Tajima no kami 但馬紙); ink from
Awaji (Awaji no sumi 淡路墨); combs from Izumi (Izumi no kushi 和泉櫛); needles from
Harima (Harima no hari 播磨針); swords from Bitchū (Bitchū no katana 備中刀); utility boxes

from Iyo (Iyo no te-bako 伊予手筥), as well as whetstones (to 砥), bamboo blinds (sudare 簾),and sardines (iwashi 鰯) from there; woven cushions from Izumo (Izumo no mushiro 出雲筵);round cushions from Sanuki (Sanuki warouda 讃岐円座); cruppers from Kazusa (Kazusa no
shirigai 上総鞦); stirrups from Musashi (Musashi no abumi 武蔵鐙); kettles from Noto (Noto no
kama 能登釜); pots from Kawachi (Kawachi no nabe 河内鍋), as well as miso from there;
lumber from Aki (Ai no kure 安芸榑); cattle from Bingo (Bingo no ushi 備後牛); cattle from
Nagato (Nagato no ushi 長門牛); horses from Mutsu (Mitsu no koma 陸奥駒), as well as paper
from there; pears from Shinano (Shinano no nashi 信濃梨子); chestnuts from Tanba (Tanba
no kuri 丹波栗); glutinous rice from Owari (Owari no kome 尾張粔); carp from Ōmi (Ōmi no
funa 近江鮒); beech nuts from Wakasa (Wakasa no shī 若狭椎子); salmon from Echigo(Echigo no sake 越後鮭), as well as lacquer (urushi 漆) from there; small dried fish from Bizen(Bizen no ami 備前海糠); mackerel from Suō (Suō no saba 周防鯖); shad from Ise (Ise no
konoshiro 伊勢鯯); abalone from Oki (Oki no awa 隠岐鮑); aubergines from Yamashiro(Yamashiro no nasu 山城茄子); melons from Yamato (Yamato no uri 大和瓜); seaweed from
Tango (Tango no me 丹後和布); rice cakes from Hida (Hida no mocha 飛騨餅); rice from
Tsukushi (Tsukushi no yone 鎮西米); and more besides.

Tsutsumi Chūnagon Monogatari 堤中納言物語, Yoshinashigoto
We have pears from Meukoku-kamishi, Shinano (Meukoku kamishi no Shinano no nashi 妙
香合子の信濃梨); chestnuts from Mt. Ikaruga (Ikaruga-yama no edaguri 斑鳩山の枝栗);
beech nuts from Mikata-kōri, Wakasa (Mikata-no-kōri no wakasa no shī 三方の郡の若狹椎);seaweed from Ama-no-hashi-date, Tango (Ama-no-hashi-date no Tango no wakame 天の橋立の丹後和布); seaweed from Izumo-no-ura (Izumo-no-ura no amanori 出雲の浦の甘海苔);
kamogari from Hashi, Mino; turnips from Wakae, Kawachi; rice cakes from Yasu and Kurimoto,
Ōmi; dried melon from Komatsu and Kamoto, Iga; pineseeds from Kaketa-ga-mine; chocolatevine from Ube, Michi-no-oku Island; and pears from Mt. Ko (Koyama no kōji tachibana こ山の柑子橘).
Teikin Ōrai 庭訓往来, 21st of Month 4, reply
Kime-zuke pickles from Kurama; udome pickles from Daigo; turnips from Mt. Higashi;
tokoroten (kokorofuto) from Mt. Nishi. Additionally, there are silks from Kaga; seikō fabric from
Tango; jōhon silk from Mino; eight-jō bolts of cloth from Owari; cloth from Shinano; pongee
from Hitachi; silk floss from Ueno; cruppers from Kazusa; stirrups from Musashi; footware from
Sado; saddles from Ise; bamboo screens from Iyo; round cushions from Sanuki and danji paper
too; sugihara from Harima; swords from Bizen; hoes from Izumo; horses from Kai; cattle from
Nagao; gold from Ōshū; iron from Bitchū; salted salmon from Echigo (Echigo no shiohiki 越後塩引); abalone from Oki (Oki no awabi 隠岐鮑); mackerel from Suō (Suō no saba 周防鯖); carp from Ōmi (Ōmi no funa 近江鮒); carp from Yodo; timber from Sado; lumber from
Aki; kettles from Noto; pots from Kawachi; liquor from Bingo (Bingo sake 備後酒); vinegarfrom Izumi; beech nuts from Wakasa (Wakasa no shī); chestnuts from Saifu; seaweed from

Uga (Uga no konbu 宇賀昆布); sardines from Matsura; salmon from Ezo; lacquer from Mutsu;
grains from Tsukushi (Tsukushi-gome 筑紫穀).