TRAVELS IN MUSTANG, VISITING TEMPLES AND MONASTERIESIN THE UPPER KALI GANDAKI
Sadao Yoshinaga
On 23rd September, we advanced to Kagbeni from the east, down along
Muktinath valley (Dzong(Dzong Chu). Kagbeni is not only our starting point of ourjourney to the upper Kali Gandai but the real administrative gateway to thenorthern restricted area, where all foreign travelers are obliged to bechecked by the government staff. Apart from our first objective to explore
the lesser known mountain ranges in northwestern or western part of Lo
Manthang in which we had having a special interest of the topography, I
myself had the another plan to visit the old temples and monasteries of there
as extensively as possible.
Early in 1970's,I had a coincidental fortune to meet with a book, "Himalayan
Pilgrimage", by Prof. David Snellgrove, one of the learned on the Tibetan
Buddhism. The book was written on his scholarly travel in 1956 through theremotest land beyond the Great Himalaya, and when I got through the book,it tempted me into the mysterious charm of the land where unsophisticatedTibetans widely living. In so poor and severe physical circumstances, they
live with much of spiritual wealth that, I learned, their characteristic
strength had been fostered by traditional Tibetan Buddhism as the basis of
had
their living life. Since then, it had been one of the strong desires through mylife to visit Dolpo or Mustang, following after the author's route, and see with
my own eyes the land and people in the world surrounded by the abundant
heritage of Tibetan Buddhism.
According to a common view of historians, the spread of latter Tibetan
Buddhism into Mustang, began at the time when the king of Mustang Ama-Pal invited Ngor-chen Kun-dga'-bzan-po (1382-1456), the great scholarly
teacher of Ngor-pa sect, to Lo Manthang in the early 15th century. (1427?)
The following kings, A-mgon-bzang-po and bKra-shis-mgon were ardent
Buddhist and gave great support to spread the doctrine in Mustang. Kundga'-bzang-po visited Mustang three times (during 1427 to 1447) in his life
for propagation. During these times, the doctrine of latter Tibetan Buddhism
was in its golden age, and all of the wealthy Buddhist cultures in highest
level including art and architecture, were brought into Mustang. Now, we
can see some of its vestiges among the old monasteries and temples of Lo

Manthang and the vicinity.
On the attached sheet of map, MUSTANG, we dotted consecutive numbers(such as ① with Swastika) to indicate the location of the monastery，monastery，whichreferable to each section number of the following papers.
(1)

Thini Gompa: ( visited 4th and 13th Sept.）
Sept.）

Bon temple. Main deity is Welse Ngampa (tib(tib.:
tib.:dBal gsas rngam pa) in dark
blue, with nine heads and eighteen arms, embraced by his consort, Ngamo
Yumchen ((tib.:
tib.:rNgam mo yum chen) in green color. Left is Kunzang Gyalwa
tib.:Dupa ((tibtib.:kun bzang rgyal ba'dus pa) in white, five heads and ten arms. And
small statue of Padmasambhava is in between. At the right is a beautiful
Treasures"" still told
bronze Vajradhara. This temple is now holding "Five Treasuresby the tradition of Padma-sambhava,which in 1956 D.Snellgrove
investigated them at Kutsapternga. Now, the "Treasures" are not opened forforeign visitors.Left and right walls are painted with large eight auspicious
symbols singly and a few religious ancestors between them.
(2)(2) Ku-tsap-ter-nga:
Ku-tsap-ter-nga: ( visited 13th Sep.)
This Nyingma-pa monastery was founded in the end of 17 century by Urgen
dPal bZang to whom "Five Treasures" had been given by his Guru, bDud'-dulrDo-rge, the rTer-ston (Treasure discoverer). Legend has it that thismonastery was founded by Padmasambhava in the beginning of 9th century.
The local name of the monastery "Five treasures of Bodily Representation",(tib.:
tib.: sku-tshab gter-nga) is derived from this story. The monastery is built
on the top of remarkable hill looking down the villages of Marpha, Shangand Jomsom on the opposite bank. The monastery once destroyed by fire in
Nepal-Tibet War (in 1854-56) and was rebuilt by Sangye Zampo, a Buddhist
teacher from the eastern Tibet. The main hall was again rebuilt in 1957 by
the contribution of 15,000 Rupees by Lama of Shang who was one of thecharacters in Snellgrove's book and other local influential persons. Deities
enshrined in the main hall are Sakyamuni, Amitayus, Manjusri,
Avalokitesvara, Padmasambhava, Maitreya and etc. They are a common setof Nyinma-pa deities. Wall paintings were largely repainted by Thakali
painters, late Kamal-Dhoj Tulachan and his son, Shashi-Dhoj Tulachan. We
met seven young monks, from ten to twenty age, who served us with a cup of
buttered tea.

(3)(3) Old Jomsom: (not visited,)
Small Bon temple in northern part of Jomsom (old Jomsom). The Tibetanname of the temple is "Phun-tsogs"Phun-tsogs Yung-drung-gling." in Tibetan. It is told
Kun-gzangthat in the chapel, there are enshrined images of Welse Ngampa, Kungzang
gyal ba 'dus-pa,'dus-pa, Chamma (tib(tib.:
tib.: Byams ma), Thaklha Mebar (tib.:(tib.:sTag-la-me'bar), Drempa Namkha (tib.:(tib.:Dran-pa-nam-mkha' ), a common set of the Bonpo deities.
(4)(4) Kagbeni: ( visited 23rd - 24th Sept, and 13th Oct. )Kagebeni is situated as the most important town at a cross point of two main
roads, namely one from Dolpo to Neshan or Nar (west to east), and anotherfrom Lo to southern valley of Kali Gandaki (north to south), and. as thecapital town of the old kingdom of Kak (Tib(Tib.:
Tib.:bKag ). Now there are a ruined
fort and a monastery, in the town with houses closed together.
At the northern edge of the town, placed the main check post of the KaliGandaki route. All foreign trekkers has to be checked here. According to alist on the board, numbers of foreign trekkers into the restricted areas ofMustang last year, in 2000, were as follows: (numbers in 1999 are shownwith bracket). Total number were 977 (1057), France 245 (224), USA 188(184), Italy 76, Japan 57 (38), Swiss 85, Germany 94, Britain 70, Austria 32,
and etc. This year, 2001, these number would be reduced by the New York
terrorism, as we hardly met American trekkers after the incident.
Facing the current of Kali Gandaki, there is a monastery at western cornerof the town, called "Kak-chos-de",aid it had been founded in"Kak-chos-de", traditionally ssaid
1477.. In the main hall, bronze statues of Sakyamuni with his two disciples
1477
are on the central throne and left of them, Sakyamuni and Sakya-Pandita,and Maitreya, Ngorchen Kunga-Sanpo on the right. Both end of the frontrow, are occupied by stocked Buddhist Scriptures. Three walls is fully
painted with images of Ngor-pa order. The center of ceiling is stairwell.
After the observation in the hall, I ascended alone onto the roof of threestoried building, and enjoyed the view toward north, the way to Lo
Manthang, and back toward Lower Kali Gandaki.
(5)(5) Tingri gompa: (visited 13th Oct.)
Located the right bank of Kali Gandaki, about 1km north of Kagbeni and50m above the village of the same name by the river. Originally founded astib.:nunnery, named Samdoup Choe-ling (tib(tib.:bsam-grub-chos-gling), now being
cared by a couple and two children. Restoring process went on in most of thewall paintings and stone plaques of the front room, there are number ofimages of old religious ancestors and guardians of four directions, which areline carved on the stone plate with wooden frames. In the main hall, aremain three statues of Padmasambhava with his two consorts, Mandarava
and Ye-she-tso-gyal in center, and the founder and successive lamas of thistemple are in glass protecting. This temple is built on the high hill in
splendid tranquil atmosphere and with the superb view looking down the
Kagbeni..
meandering streams on the river bed of Kali Gandaki and Kagbeni..
(6)(6) Dzar-dzong
Dzar-dzong Gompa: ( visited 16th Sept.)
One of the villages on the way to Muktinath.
Muktinath. There are a Buddhist
monastery and a ruined fort. Dzar (Jharkot)(Jharkot) was the leading village having a
fortress and monastery, guarding the six villages along Dzong Chu at thesouth. Six villages are Kheng-Khar, Dzar and Purrang on the leftbank(south) and Chhenkor, Dzong and Puttra on the right (north). Thesevillages were once called ""Dar-rDzong-yul-drug"
Dar-rDzong-yul-drug" as a community. The fortof Dzar is now almost ruined except a few rooms being used by villagers.
The monastery was founded in Kagyu-pa (tib(tib.:
tib.:bKa'-brgyud-pa) order in thethmiddle of 15 century, Deities of the main hall are Sakyamuni, SakyaPandita ((tib.:
tib.:Sa-skya pandita) and Gorchen-Kunga-Sand-po (tib.:(tib.:Ngor-chen
Kun-dga'-bzan-po) protected by glass plates. Images of Sakyamuni, Sixteenarhats, Three Times of Buddhas, Mahavairocana, Amitaba, Avarokitesvara
with four arms, and Four Guardians are on the walls, repainted in 1950's. In
the courtyard of the monastery, there is "The Tibetan Traditional Medical
Center" built by the cooperation of a Japanese T. Watanabe 12 years ago.
(7)(7) Temples and shrines in Muktinath: ( visited 16th Sept.)
Muktinath is a center of the sacred place in Lower Kali Gandaki for both
Bon-po.
Hindu, Buddhist or Bonpo. The inner Hindu temple is called Muktinath
Mandir in which enshrined a image of Vishnu. As there are so many Indianand Nepalese Hindu pilgrims coming from far distant places in India and
Nepal, a lot of simple hotels for them were newly built or now in constructionin the vicinity. This pagoda styled temple with three fold roofs is surroundedfamous springs and another building. Spring water flowed out through the
108 of cattle head shaped spouts. Originally this springs called "Chumik"Chumikgyatsa" ((tibtib.:tib.:chu-mig brgya-rtsa, means "place of one hundred springs") by
Bon-po,po, which was not the place for Hindu before eighteenth
Buddhist and Boncentury. The sanctuary in the grove along a stream was a sacred place foryogis,, such as
their meditation of the ancient Indian and Tibetan Buddhist yogis
Padmasambhava, Mila-repa and other most of famous Tantric ancestors.
There are another famous temple, named Menbal, in which are burningstone, flaming water and blazing earth and enshrined Nyingma-pa deities on
the altar. Mar-me Lhakang (Hall of Butter Lamp) is another small
Nyingma-pa temple, holding statues of Padmasambhava and two consorts,
Pemadakpo, Seng-Dongma and Nyiingma-pa ancestors. One Hindu temple,
named Shiva Mandir in the courtyard is for God of Shiva and his consort
Parbhati.
(8)(8) Chungar(Nepal map:Chhengar):Gompa:
map:Chhengar):Gompa: ( visited 16th Sept.)
Located at upstream of Dzong Chu. This small village temple is also
Nyingma-pa one and enshrine Padmasambhava and Nyingma-pa deities inthe single hall.
(9)(9) Dzong monastery: ( visited 22nd Sept.)
Dzong is the leading village of north side of Dzong Chu (Muktinath(Muktinath valley),
where is a ruined dzong (fort) dominating the north side of the valley. The
village is called simply Dzong, the Tibetan word means fort. In old days, it
was called Rap-gyal-tse (tib(tib.:
tib.:rab-rgyal-rtse), means "Peak of Supreme
Victory." The monastery has been called by villagers "Dzong"Dzong choede gompa,"
enshrined Sakyamuni as a central deity protected by glass plate, with large
number of deities and small Buddhist towers. Wall paintings has the themeof Vajrayana, Five Deities of Vajrayana, Amitayus, Hevajra, Avalokitesvara
with four arms, Padmasambhava and etc.
(10)(10) Tangbe village gompa: (not visited)(11)) Gompa Khang.
(not visited)(11
Regards to the above two gompas, I passed by them on the way to north, on
15th Sept., expecting to visit on the return way. With my great regret,however, especially to the latter, I missed the chance to visit because of theafternoon flood of Kali Gandaki River at Chuksang on the return march.
(12)(12) Chuksang (Nepal map:Chhusang), Mentsi Lhakang: (visit 12th Oct.)
The name of this temple, Mentsi Lhakang (Tib(Tib.:
Tib.:sman-rtsi lha-khang) means"Temple of Medicinal Juice." Located easterly above the Chhusang village.
In one of the caves in conglomerate layer, we can find a tiny entrance
guarded by piled stones, which leads us to the chapel by unsteady stair case.
Main image of this cave temple is a beautiful terracotta image of Maitreya(tib.:
tib.:Byams-pa), abnormally white face and body of which was faintly
floating in the dark room. In 1956, Snellgrove admired this temple as "one of
the most impressive places in the whole region." The most attractive is theembossed wood carved nimbus of the Maitreya, which is composed ofmythological animals, elephant, yaksha, unicorn, makala, garuda and etc.
On the left and right shelves, are images of Five Buddhas of Vajrayana. In
another cave room, I could find several dusty terracotta images carelessly
treated, which placed disorderly beneath the excellent but quite stained wall
paintings.
(13)-(A) Chhoknam (Nepal map: Chhomnag)
Chhomnag) .Upper templeth( visited 15 Sept.)(13)-(B) Chhoknam(Nepal
Chhoknam(Nepal map: Chhomnag). Lower temple ( not visited )Located 1.5km east from Kali Gandaki, on the right bank of Narsing Khola.
map:Chhomnag)
These two gompas are in same Chhoknam (Nepal map:Chhomnag) village.
Lower temple was not visited, because the time was too late in the afternoon.
Upper gompa is in good atmosphere surrounded by poplar trees and a few of
apricot. However, inside the room of the gompa, every thing is kept
carelessly in the most lamentable condition and the room itself is used as astore room, The old fine but stained wall paintings were remained behindthe piled tacks of straw. They has been kept for nearly a half century in quitesame condition as Snellgrove had ever seen them 45 years ago. The damageof paintings by the leak from the roof, would supposedly has advanced year
by year since then. It is said both gompas were built in same Nyingmapa
order. Upper gompa was built after the Lower had been founded.
(14)(14) Tetang Gompa: ( visited 15th Sept.)
From Chhoknam(Nepal
Chhoknam(Nepal map:Chhomnang) village, we proceeded along thestream ((Narsing
Narsing Khola) for a short distance to Tetang. This village gompa is
50m above the river bed and was built rather recently and deities were a setof common Nyingma-pa ones.
(15)(15) Ranchun Cave Gompa: ( visited 27th Sept.)
This cave gompa is still a favorite place for Tibetan pilgrims and even recent
foreign trekkers toward Lo Manthang. Parting the main track from Samar to
Geling, another path led us to Ranchun Cave (tib(tib.:
tib.:gcong-gzhi rang byung).
At the gate of a stalactite cave, small temple was built by piling stones.
Padmasanbhava)) once came here,
Legend has it that the Guru Rinpoche ((Padmasanbhava
Padmasanbhava
and after the meditation here for three years, three months, and three days,
went to Kutsapterunga to remain the "Five Treasures" and made three
Muktinath),
miracle fires at Chmik-gyatsa ((Muktinath
Muktinath), buried rock salts at three places
Tetang,, and again came back to this place to construct the Cave.
near Tetang
Beside the temple, there is a naturaly produced Chorten and inside the cave,
there are self-produced images growing from the back walls. At front of the
cave behind the temple, there are four "Man-made Chortens" with colorfully
painted images of Amitabha, Avalokitesvara, Padmasambhava andSakyamuni. I made a circuit around those chortens in the cave, though
every details could not be observed in the darkness.
(16)( visited 27th Sept.)(16) Geling Gompa:
After passing by Shyangmochen, the main road cross a pass, where aremarkable chorten is standing, looking down Geling village to the right.
The village itself seems to be rich with surrounding extensive terraced field,
and houses are beautifully dotted among groves of willow. The Gompa inthe village, which founded in Ngor-pa, was mostly renewed and neatly cared.
Wall paintings were beautifully repainted. by Shashi Dhoj Tulachan inrecent ten years.
(17)(visited 28th Sept.)(17) Gemi (Nepal map:Ghami) Gompa
Gemi (Nepal map:Ghami)
map:Ghami) also was once a castled town guarded by a fort,
and still remaind the temporary palace belonging to the king of Lo. I haveheard too that there were two small gompas near the village which are now
deserted or no man lives to care them. We visited the monastery in thevillage, at the front of which are a small courtyard and lodging rooms for themonks. This monastery was founded in Ngor-pa, enshrined in the main hall,
images of Sakyamuni, Vajradhara, Akshobhya, Ngorchen-Kunga-zanpo andother ancient Sakya-pa teachers. Like as Geling gompa, this monastery was
restored and repainted the inside walls several times since 1950's by
painters of Tulachan family.
(18)(visited 28th Sept. and 5th Oct.)(18) Chharang:
There are two alternate routes from Gemi(Nepal
Gemi(Nepal map:Ghami) to Lo
Manthang, one to Chharang, and another to Lo Gekar toward north via
Trakmar ((Dhakmar).
Dhakmar). Snellgrove took the latter route to Lo Gekar in 1956.
Our way was taken by the former, passing by the new hospital, built recently
by the cooperation of T.Kondo, and Nepal's longest "mendan""mendan" just like a big
snake crawling up toward the red crags behind. Crossing a few ravines withno water, we stood at the last hill top from where whole view of Chharang
familiarizedcame into my eyes. This familiar
ized sight has been kept in my mind for along time. Chharang was the longing and adorable place since the days of
my youth. Exactly a hundred two years ago, Ekai Kawaguchi arrived at
Chharang from Kathmandu, by way of Pokhara, Tukche, Muktinath,
map:Ghami),
Kagbeni, Samar and Gemi (Nepal map:Ghami), and stayed here for about
ten months. Our adventurous mind had been much encouraged by his book

"Travels in Tibet" (in Japanese.pub.1904, Tokyo) and by its English edition"Three years in Tibet" (pub.1909, Madras/London.) he gained the world fameat that time.
Two important places worth to see in Chharang are King's Palace and theChharang Gompa. The five storied, white Palace was still standing on thenorthern hill in the village. which was built in the middle of 16th century by
the king at that time, Tundoup-Dorje (tib.
(tib. Don-grub-rdo-rje
Don-grub-rdo-rje ). Most part ofbuilding are now deserted, except a few small rooms, holding old and fineimages, paintings and sutras. At the south of the Palace, is the Chharang
Gompa, called “Chharang Dorje-den Gampa”
Gampa”. Founded in Ngor-pa, probably
by the king Ama-pal who was one of "Three Excellent Men"(tibMen"(tib.:
tib.:bzang.:bzang po
rnam gsum, namely, Ngor-chen Kun-dga'-bzang-po, King A-ma-pal- bzang-po,
and the minister Tshe-dbang-bzang-po) according to a historical source ofChharang Molla. The monastery now holding a hundred and more monks. In
the main hall, great image of Maitreya of bronze is in the center with two
images of Sakyamuni and Vajrasattva, and there are other few rooms,

"Defenders Room"(
Room"(tibtib.:
tib.:srung.:srung khang) and others. Including all superb images,
images,excellent frescos and many old tankas,tankas, composed by the form of traditional
Ngor-pa order, all of which are the brilliant religious heritage in the golden
time of Kagyu-pa order.
(19)(visited 8th Oct.)(19) Luri Gompa
From Chharang, an uneasy route lead to Surkhang and Yara on the easternside of Kali Gandaki, partly through the main river bed. There is a lonely
cave gompa called Luri about 2km beyond Yara village to where the foreign
trekkers scarcely visit as the location is out of the main road of Mustang.
The gompa is situated on high craggy peaks faced to Pyon Khola, and to the
opposite bank, curiously eroded cliffs of red stone pillars extend for several
kilometers along the khola. The foundation of this gompa is not known.
However, it is said that this cave gompa was founded in Duk-pa ((tibtib.:tib.:Brug-pa.
thth
one of the sect of Kagyu-pa) in the middle of 13 to early 14 century.
In a small main cave hall, there enshrined some of the terracotta images ofPadmasambhava and Duk-pa religious ancestors. A narrow path led us to
the round ""Chorten
Chorten Hall." This small room is mostly occupied by a big
tib.:.:brugbeautiful chorten, locally called "A Hundred Thousand Dragons ((tibtib.:brugbum) Chorten", which has symmetrical proportion and painted every sidefrom the plinth to its canopy about five meters high by the superb images.
There is only a tiny square hole to take in the outer light on southern wall,
but room is quite dark. The rounded ceiling of the room and walls of four
directions are also beautifully painted only except damaged part of the west
wall. Every thing in the room seems to be valuable treasures of Buddhist artof the highest quality. to which we only gazed one by one and were fascinatedin absent mind. These paintings are unfamiliarly styled with those of other
Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in Mustang, and gave us an impression orillusion that we were seeing them somewhere in the ancient cave temple in
Ladakh or Central Asia.
Some of the images are explained in captions on attached photograph album.
(20)
visited 5th Oct.)(20) Lo Gekar. Ghar gompa ((visited
The monastery in Lo Gekar is called Ghar gompa by local villagers whichplaced in the most earliest time in Mustang, probably the former Tibetan
Buddhism had spread into there in the middle of 8th century. It was foundedin Nyingma-pa order. Lo Gekar is located at the eastern foot of the mountaindivide with Dolpo and an oasis between Gemi(
Gemi(Nepal:Ghami) 8km to thesouth and Lo Manthang 10km to the north. Lo Gekar means "Pure virtue ofLo"(tib
Lo"(tib.:
tib.:gLo Dge-dkar) by Snellgrove, and a legend has been said that, theplace is one of the sacred place where Padmasambhava and Bodhisattva hadever visited in 8th century. I was much impressed by the land itself as themost ideal place for meditation, blessed with grove of poplar trees andabundant pure streams among the bare deserted land, and magnificent
southeastern view looking down the lower valley of Marang and Chharang
far distance.
North and east side of two storied main building, there are long chains ofmani-wheel and the south side is opened for the entrance. Inside the mainbuilding, there are two rooms. Walls of the first room are fully adorned bylarge number of colored stone plaques with wooden frames. They are various
Nyingma-pa deities. In the dark small room of the right wall, are two
protective goddesses on the horse and ox. Snellgrove described them ""amaama
leg-ldan""legs-ldandrag-mo"legldan" and "legsldan dragmo" according to the identifying by his
accompanied monk. In inner hall, there are two bronze images ofPadmasambhava with his two wives and many other terracotta deities of theboth sides illuminated by continuously burned butter lamps. Every otherthings including ceiling and walls of three directions, are covered thick sootof smoke and only two small spots of the entrance wall were cleaned andrestored the original fresh color paintings. One of the rooms of second floor, I
could find several stone plaques same as the entrance room.
(21)(21) Chudzong Gompa: (visited. 3rd Oct.)
In the middle stream of Sao Chu, the uppermost eastern tributary of KalicalledGandaki river, there lies a cave gompa called Sao gompa or Chudzong gompa,
at lonely place not any living village thereabout at present. About the origin
or founder's name were not known, but once here was a grand monastery at
the same place probably in 13-14th century. It is said that because of an
outbreak of some disastrous incident, the monastery was destructed together
with nearby village and a nunnery. After that, Khyung-po Gelon, a Buddhist
teacher from Eastern Tibet, restored and rebuilt the present cave gompa In
1992, probably the second foreign visitors reached there, P.Matthiessen and
T.Laird narrated in their interesting and well illustrated book "East of Lo

Monthang" about the legend of Sao Gompa (Chudzon(Chudzon gompa) and the areasof upper Sao Chu, of which Lama of Choede Gompa in Lo Manthang told
them. According to the story, the upper valley of Sao Chu had ever been
largely inhabited and even covered by thick forest in some places. He said
that, in old times the land was called ""Bayul"
Bayul" (Hidden Valley), namely theparadise. In 1960's, this valley were crowded by armed Kampa soldiers who
concealed themselves in a lot of caves, and they had stolen many of thevaluable old Tankas, the properties belong to the gompa.
To visit this gompa from Lo Manthang in one day is really a forced march. It
takes nine to ten hours to go back and forth between them. No village exist
along the way, and to get the gompa one has to ascend some 100m steep andmeandering poor path among the craggy ravines from bottom of the river.
The entrance is skillfully constructed on one of the ledges of the cliffs. Inside
the small chapel, there enshrined three main deities of the past, present andfuture, Sakyamuni in center and other lots of small images. There also are
the old wall paintings and Tankas of successive lamas of Kagyu-pa and otherroom,"P,"Protector's
images. The high light of this gompa is another inner room,"Protector's
tib.:
.:m
Gon--Khan
Khang),
Room" ((tib
tib
.:
mGon
g), to which a narrow path lead us from the chapel inutter darkness, because of that there is not a small hole to take in theoutside light. Only depending on the lamp, we were suddenly aware ofbeing among the six terracotta deities of life-size, fresh colored fierce face,
crowded in narrow and close room. Looking around the three walls by thelight, we were still more astonished to know that we were surrounded by theeight superb frescos which were quite excellent. Inevitably for a while I
admired the highest levelmasterpiece of Buddhist art in Tibet, that displayed the artist's skill in themost prosperous days of Tibetan Buddhism in 13 th-14th century. The theme ofone,.
these images is Sakya-pa one,. although images in the main chapel andoness. The fact means that this cave gompa
curious deities were Kagyu-pa one
itself was originally founded by Sakya-pa order, but at later time, the chapel
was reconstructed in Duk-pa, one of the Kagyu-pa branches, and that
Gong-Khang
monster-like deities were brought into this GongKhang still more later.
Names identified of each deities are explained in attached phograph album.
(22)(22) Garphu Gompa:(visited 1st Oct.)(23)(visited 1st Oct.)(23) Niphu Gompa:
After crossing a stream at northern edge of Lo Manthang, we proceed toward
north on the vast plateau along the Chinese motor road. Soon the road joinsby the wide valley flow down from the north and on the opposite bank of thebroad riverbed, Nenyul (Nepal map: Nyanol) village come into the sight. The
hill side on the left of the road are entirely arid desert in grey color, contrary
with the abundant terraced fields just after harvest beyond the river on theright. Advanced for one hour, we passed by a road side chorten lead to Arka
village. Beyond the stream to the east, several villages successively with thedotted line of green poplar groves, were visible beneath the red rock cliffs
behind them, on the top of which, a ruined fort is dominating the valley.
Echenbu and Garphu are the northern end of the line of the villages, behindthose are numerous caves still used by villagers probably from the old time.
Garphu gompa is located among the assembly of village houses. It is said thefound of this gompa was not so old. In the main chapel is enshrined by
Nying
Nyin
gma-pa deities, Padmasanbhava and his two consorts on the altar
protected by glass protected altar.
Niphu gompa is located a short distance from the village going up along Phu(Nepalmap:: Sichapuhu khola), among the caves on the foot of cliffs. The
Chu (Nepal maptib.:
original name is Nyi-Puk ((tibtib.: Nyi-phug ) means "Cave of the Sun" or Sunny
Cave of Lama". The red wall of the gompa is clearly visible from everywherein the broad valley. The foundation of this gompa was not later than theearly 16th century, evidenced by the historical fact by the autobiography of Lo
O-Kenchentib.:.:Glo-bo
OKenchen Sonam Huntoup ((tibtib.:Glo-bo mkhan-chen Bsod-nams-lhun-grub,
resided1456-1532) that he had ever resided in this gompa.
(24)(24) Puwa(25)) Namgyal Gompa(25(not visited)(not visited)(26)( stayed from 30th Sept. to 4th Oct.)(26) Lo Manthang.
Manthang.
At the time Prof.G.Tucci made the first journey for researches in Lo
Manthang in 1952, most of the monasteries there were visited at the firsttime. Some of the historical sources of Mustang, which had been discoveredin Mustang, were collected and corroborated with his profound knowledge ofthe historical source of Central Tibet. The origin of the religious
establishments of there and many of other historical facts were partlyconfirmed by the result of this expedition.
In Lo Manthang now, a large scale of restoring of the Buddhist building isstarting. We could visit two of the monasteries this time, Chamba Lakhang
Gompa.. We were much surprised to witness(under construction) and Choede Gompa
the piles of voluminous lumber for the construction which has supposedly
been brought by the truck through Chinese road from the north, not supplied
from the south. In Upper Mustang, more of daily necessaries of Chinese
products and foods, even Nepalese rice can be obtained. For that, rice or
cereals of Nepalese product are more over falling in price by around thirty
percent less than before in Lo Manthang.
(26) - (A)(visited 2nd Oct.).
(A) Chamba-L
Chamba-Lh-Lhakhakhang:One of the three famous monasteries in the castled town of Lo Manthang,
Chanba (Maitreya)(Maitreya) Lakhang is located just the west of King's Palace. In thereinforcement,, financially supported by theyear of 2001, a construction for reinforcement
King Mahendra Fund has started.
started. On the ground facing the entrance was
occupied with heaps of earth and the visitors are directly led to the corridorof second floor, which was repaired by new lumbers. To see the huge statue ofChamba was only possible from the second floor. Only the upper part of thefloor.. Lotus throne and its foundation are instatue is visible from the second floor
the first floor and the grand images of wall paintings are now not possible tosee interrupted by the lumbers placed and confused inside of the hall.
This monastery was founded by the king Amogon Zan-po in 1448, the year
when Ngorchen Kunga-Zanpo had stayed in Mustang on his third and thevisit.. Additional construction was made fifty years later since thelast visit
foundation.
found
ation. Inside the second floor is surrounded by full of the superb wall
paintings of various kind of Mandala. The paintings of the third floor inwhich I could not enter, are regrettably said that most Mandalas withincreasing damages are in irreparable condition and clearly on the way todisappear.
(26) - (B)(visited 30th Sept.)(B) Choede Gompa:
In the morning of the next day after arriving at Lo Manthang.
Manthang. we at once
visited this grand monastery at northern part of the town. The building werecomposed of the Center Hall named "Tsuk-Lakhang""Tsuk-Lakhang" and the neighbouring
Assem
Asse
mbly Hall. In the main hall, there are beautiful images of Vajradhara,

Buddhas of Three Times and Tara as the center deities.
This monastery was founded in 1710 comparatively later than others.
others. The
founder was the King Chewan-Puntsok Gyen-Norbu (tib(tib.:
tib.:TshTshe-dbang, also
known as Gtsug-rgyan-nor-bu.) and was rebuilt in1822, by Jam-Pal Dan-dul
Dan-dul(tib.: 'Jam-dpal-dgra-'dul ) and his queen after destroyed by fire.
(26) - (C)(C) Tupchen Lhakh
akhang: (visited 4th Oct. not successful)
For an unexpected trouble, we missed to enter the inside of the gompa, inspite of my long aspiration for admiring the treasury remained the highest
Buddh
Budd
hist art of 15th century. This gompa was also built in the style of threestoried and is said that founded by the king Tashi-gun (tib(tib.:
tib.:Bkrs shis-mgon)
in early 1470's in Kagyu-pa order. This is the grandest gompa in Lo
Manthang..
Manthang(27) Samar(28）(28） Lubra Gompa(not visited)(not visited)