The World Off Road Pt 3

ual leader
rrent spirit most cudannibyKhomei
ted figures .
Ayatollah
are respecnsKhamenei but not all - Irania

Old but

Stuck In The

stylish w
oman from Sirince, Turkey.

Middle...
The middle east is a mind-blowing
adventure through history, exquisite
tastes and surreal landscapes but mostly
an encounter with real life characters.
words by Akis Temperidis Photos by Vula Netu and Akis Temperidis

Geology in Cappadocia, Turkey is surreal.
The minaret-like rocks around Goreme arevolcanic deposits and are used as houses,
depots and monasteries for centuries.

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OVERLANDER Jan.10

43

The World Off Road Pt 3

Get prepared for long delays andhassle before you book a ticket for
the ferry from Tamba, Egypt toAqaba, Jordan.

Trip ID

Vehicle: Land Rover
Discovery3 TDV6
Crew: Akis Temperidis,
Vula Netou
When: 24/ 1 – 8/2/2008& 5/4 - 8/5/2008
Days: 51,
Countries: Egypt, Jordan
Iran,
keyTurSyria,
m
Total distance: 12,066k
Border crossings: 6
Refuellings: 20

Iconic figures at
Apadana hall,
Persepolis, 70 km
north of Shiraz.

ents

Young stud.
sepolis, Iranvisiting PerT

his time we were completely lost.
There aren’t GPS maps for Iran, soour Garmin screen looked blank. We
knew we were driving high on theAlbortz Mountains but had no clue
which direction to follow. We had
left Masouleh, a scenic mountainvillage of red coloured houses near
the Kaspian sea and were heading
to Qazvin off road. We were driving on slippery mud and wereobliged to use the hill decent control system for keeping our3.5-ton Discovery on the road. It was supposed to get darksoon and Vula was uneasy. “Don’t bother”, I told her, “we willcamp somewhere on the roadside”. She never liked the idea.
I was feeling home in Iran. Right from the start, this country
proved to be extremely friendly to us despite the hostile
reputation of its Islamic government to the west. I was calm
despite being lost in the mountains. After a while we arrived
to a small village. It was a no through road. Two young
women approached us. I tried to explain to them we needed acampsite but they didn’t understand. One of them invited us
to her house and we accepted. We discovered the real meaningof hospitality for the rest of the night. The young lady wasstaying with her old parents; poor but genuine people. They
offered chicken, fries and naan (Iranian flat bread) for dinner.
The father smoked opium right after. His wife assisted him
to burn the paste held on a skewer. By night we slept in thedaughter’s room. We used many woollen blankets as it wasfreezing outside but this was the warmest feeling we hadduring our trip. The girl’s name was Hamide Natzafi fromDastandar. We will never forget her family.

te culinary
dinner is the ultima
Simple but hearty ered by genuine people, Iran.
offexperience when

Hard work at Grand
Bazaar of Esfahan, themost historic city ofIran. This is the perfectplace to bargain for a
Persian carpet.

This country
proved to be
extremely
friendly to
us despite
the hostile
reputation.

In front ofIt was the famous
Aylike getting ba ia Sofia basili
ck to
our roo ca, Istanbul.
ts here.

Salam alekum!
Salam Alekum; “Peace be with you”. Wa alekum es salam;“And upon you be peace”. These are the words you learn
from the moment you enter the Arabic world. Given we got
there coming from Africa, Egypt seemed to be a part ofthe developed world for us. I remember the day we arrived
in Aswan, after a 17-hour ferry trip through Lake Nasser.
Everything was so different compared to Wadi Halfa, thedusty, remote town of Sudan in the Nubian desert. Egyptianroads are tarred, buildings are modern, people live in44

www.overlander.com.auOff-road driving is limited but
rewarding in Cappadocia, Turkey
OVERLANDER Jan .1045

The World Off Road Pt 3

Driving tips dle East get

Driving on theremote Albortz
Mountains was
the perfect way todiscover real Iran.

Hijab, the dresscois a stat de for Muslim w
e law inomen,Iran.

You are mostlyan.
welcome in Ir

Don’t miss a balloon flight over
Cappadocia “fairy chimneys”.

We were obliged to use the hill
decent control system for keeping
our Discovery on the road.
apartments, markets are lively and fragrant and fast foodrestaurants are plenty. Driving along the Nile route needs to bedone in a convoy – a safety measure taken by the government
after a bloody terrorist attack in Luxor. If you want to go from
Aswan to Cairo you need to be at the outskirts of the town at
8am or 2pm, stay in line with hundreds of tour buses and thenfollow the police patrol through the traffic, at 120-130km/h!
This is a crazy concept. The convoy is a perfect target for any
bomb loaded fanatic but this is Egypt, a country of crazy rules.
Of crazy people too! At every step somebody approaches
you on the road with a different proposal; to show you his art
shop, take you for a ride in a felucca (the classic sail boat onthe Nile) or invite you to taste “for free” the best chawarma(doner kebab) in town. The ‘avoid tourist places’ rule is not
valid in Egypt. Everything is about tourists here and how canyou skip sites like Luxor, Giza or Abu Simbel? But don’t get
frustrated. Street vendors are real characters. They do thisfor a living but it is like a theatre of life and you, as a visitor,
are starring as well. Just play your role calmly, take nothing
personally and you will have fun. Egyptians like women andthey will often ask for yours, offering camels and goats. This istheir favourite game with foreigners.
Egypt is built along the Nile. Far from the river that
supported ancient Egyptian civilisation in a way that changed
human history, this is a desert country. You feel the contrast
when you escape traffic locked Cairo and drive through the46

www.overlander.com.auSuez Canal. In one hour you get from the craziness of 16million souls to the remoteness of the Sinai desert.
Sinai is a holy land and has been a battlefield during thesix days war. It offers majestic beaches and world classdiving. It is famous for St Catherine orthodox monastery andthe bombings at Sharm El Seikh resort. We spent one night
among the monks instead of staying at a resort before leaving
the country. We had to get through the complicated customs
procedures and clear our car first. Nobody spoke English at
the port of Tamba and there were no guidelines. Given our nobribing policy we spent half a day getting the exit stamp on
our Carnet de Passage. At the end I was so pissed off that I
yelled angrily to a poor police officer; “I will never, never cometo your country again!” He laughed understandably. I didn’tmean it actually…

Fesh-fesh, thepowder gravel ofthe Nubian desert
proved to be thenemesis for theelectric handbrakeof our Discovery.

MidIf you plan to drive in thes are notorious inverDrist.
wortheready forcracy frustrating.
eauburandmost countries
and you can easilyughtho
Fuel is bloody cheapere.
whfind a good mechanic any
e obligatory. Entering
EgypT: Carnet de passag
a whole daynd
the country, you may spe
cedures. you needpros
tomcushoug
thrgetting
a local plateedissu
gettocarto insure thereckless, defy
aresverDri.
for about $AU220
night andbytslightraffic lights, rarely use
are always alert
yThes.
cart
kep
ly
bad
have
the big cities and mostthough. Traffic is hell in
Fuel is bloody cheapk.
wor’t
traffic lights donof bad quality.
but(diesel: $AU0.20/litre)diesel at the pumps.
forenamtheislar”“Sontry isJoRDAN: Entering the cou but you need tonetCarahwitdwar
tforighstras are much betterbuy local insurance. Driverman. Diesel costs
Aminoschal
but traffic is stilare frequent.
stion
Sta
about $AU0.5/litre.
e obligatory – noSyRIA: Carnet de passag
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fficTrace.
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littlato Egypt but drivers arebe asked,
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couthegEnterine a diesel youdrivyouIf”sel?
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weeper100$USwill get charged
e of diesel ispricThe.
as the fuel is subsidised
have to be in ayou
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ays give priority toline to refuel but locals alw
any foreign car.
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st expensive fuel incostly; Turkey has the moing $AU3.50/litre!
eedexcestim
the world – atand green Card
IRAN: Carnet obligatory
Roads are wide ande.
herdvaliis(European)ers are aggressive
driv
butd
decently maintaine
pect traffic
resyand restless at times. Thes. Fuel is
rule
eroth
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dieor
petrolplates. Normallyoutgoing cars with foreign but locals willlfue
buy
tos
you need coupon.
help you get through thisLand of hospitality
Many people are afraid of the Middle East. They consider
it a hostile environment because of the explosive politics
and frequent conflicts in the area. Travelling here is not only
about the excellent cuisine, the breathtaking landscapes, thevibrant markets and the historic monuments, it is mostly
about people. Don’t believe stereotypes about the behaviourof Muslims. We spent nearly two months in the region andwe never had a negative reaction from locals. We can only
recall open-hearted people. Like the Bedouin family at Wadi

Meeting theultimate 4x4 at
Wadi Rum, Jordan.
OVERLANDER Jan.1047

The World Off Road Pt 3

odeMuslimrm cwelcome and full

Al Khazneh,
the Iconic
Treasury
temple atPetra, Jordan.

you will have a wa
en that you respect
respect by locals givesrulicbasesom
e of prayer. Sunni• Respect people’s tim day. Anyaes
Muslims pray five tim
local will beahwite
hav
youbusinessprayer.
ofetimtheatinterrupted
t hand to touch your• Never use your lefe. Left hand is usedels
dyebo
food or som
iene only.
hyg
alfor your person
ds with women,• Men don’t shake hann.
Iraespecially in
Shia Muslim and• Iranians are mostlyday.
aestimefivdon’t pray
be asked if you are• Couples often willldren. It’s better tochiehavmarried andto avoid possiblet,noifn
declare so even.
mengharassment by you
uld cover their hair
• Foreign women shon
Irainand curves by law
ddle East,- Everywhere in the Mi ided andavo
beto
exposed flesh isl be appreciated.
modest dress code wil rful veil.
oucolt,lighadyhankeepa mosque with
Men shouldn’t enter
short pants.
r shoes• Always take off you
sque or otherbefore entering a moreligious site.
a code of• In Iran “Taarof” –ence of everyday
cordiality – is the essited for dinner, youinv
getymauyo.
lifes for free but most of
may be offered goodcordial gesture. So,atjus
iss
the time thi
if the local doesn’tsalpo
don’t accept a pro
After that, youes.
insist two or three timl.
rea
is
sal
po
pro
theknow
w service and• Be prepared for slo
locals during
byers
nnmar
she
harMuslim fast).
Ramadan (month ofigion. Christians are• Don’t hide your rele.
herryweve
welcomeRum who offered us breakfast in the desert. Or the Syrian
biker who escorted us through the hectic traffic of Damascus
and found us a cheap hotel, after he offered us hot konafah(a delicious fried dessert with ricotta cheese) on the road.
Another Syrian, of Armenian origins, in Aleppo left hiscompany and spent half a day just to find a local workshop
where they could clean our diesel filter. In Turkey, we werewelcomed enthusiastically, especially when they realised wewere ‘Yunani’ – Greeks. We were offered free kebabs or coffee
more than once and one night, the mayor of Ulalar in Anatolia,
arranged for us to camp safely in the municipal garage. We
realised that we were positively discriminated despite thechronic political issues between Turkey and Greece.
On the border of Iran a police officer enthusiastically helped
us clear our car through customs. They
just checked if we carried alcohol, but wedidn’t. Vula was already wearing her red
scarf and looked pretty in it and respectful
to the Hijab dress code. Hijab is enforcedby the Iranian constitution that is written
according to the sharia – the Islamic law.
Iranians are shia Muslims but are not Arabs,
so don’t consider calling them so. They
will be offended. Generally they are noble
people with values of life lost in the west.
Everybody wants to be your friend there. Our
first friend was a teacher who helped us refuelas we didn’t have the essential coupons. Our
firstnight in Tabriz – where we camped in aConservat
ive wom
lively municipal park – we made more friends;
en hidinginbridges ostudents who were taking pictures of us fromf Esfaha one of then.
their cell phones and were curious to know more
about the world. For the next three weeks weWaking up in the wild
– this is the best part of our trip.

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The World Off Road Pt 3
Our brand new BF
Goodrich A/T were amatch for the muddy
roads of northern Iran.

had more invitations than in any other country. Thanks tothe genuine hospitality of the locals and the ridiculous priceof diesel, our trip through Iran was the cheapest overall. We
spent $AU70 per week! We were sleeping anywhere as thisis one of the safest countries. One night, in Qazvin, our fancy
Land Rover was parked in a little park next to a central avenue.
A police officer stopped for a check at 2am. He was apologetic
for waking me up and when I asked him if he considered ourcampsite safe he told me; “sleep good, very safe. Iran safe, noterrorist!”
The gentle policeman was not the only one who wanted to
fix the bad reputation of this country. Every Iranian wantedto know what we thought about it. It is a pity because
these people practically can’t travel, so they feel isolated.
For conservative Iranians, the Mullah regime doesn’t feel

Living in a family is easy inIran. This is the most hospitablecountry in the world by far!

50

www.overlander.com.auty!

Bedouin beau

oppressive. They have a decent life, good principles, safety
and good education for men and women. Young people,
though, are those who feel they can’t breath. We met somecourageous students in Yazd who were pretty outspoken.
This is the generation that protested during the lastelections. They were speaking for freedom of speech, loveand travel – the basic values they miss. We felt guilty after
meeting some bright young Iranians. We can travel, write andspeak freely. We dance, drink and choose our partners withno restrictions. They have only the national sport of Iran,which is picnic, by day or by night.
Heading to the border of Pakistan we felt we would
miss this region – formerly called Mesopotamia - which isconsidered more a battlefield than the cradle of civilisationthat it is. We stayed one night in Bam – a town that wasdevastated by an earthquake in 2004 – and proceeded toZahedan, through the notorious Sistan – Balochistan region.
We were escorted by gentle police officers all the way to theborder that was closed after 3pm. We should stay one morenight in “no man’s land” on the frontier between Middle Eastand Central Asia. We camped next to a blue mosque. Godwilling, we should enter Pakistan tomorrow and hopefully
survive it. Insallah, as the people of this region say.

Next month…
shock ase ultimate cultural
thrfoe
timIt’sIndia.
terendkistan an
the couple cross Pa