Annual
Report2015

The Zero Discharge ofHazardous Chemicals
Programme

Leaders inEnvironmental
Responsibility

In association with

1

Shutterstock / elwynn

Contents

Executive Director’s Letter
The ZDHC Programme
Overview of 2015 Key Achievements
Focus Areas Overview:•		 | MRSL and Conformity Guidance•		 | Research•		 | Audit Protocol•		 | Wastewater Quality•		 | Training•		 | Data and Disclosure
Ambition and Long-term Strategy
Join the ZDHC Programme

The Zero Discharge
Hazardous Chemicals
Programme 2015
Impact Report

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Executive Director’s LetterIn the past, there have been efforts toand today, that number has grown to 21

Version 1.1, which was expanded to include

work achieved so far.

remove hazardous chemicals from thebrands and seven associates.

leather, and the release of the Chemical

Together, we are working to create andManagement System Guidance Manual, aharmonise standards to ensure safer chem-

global textile and footwear value-chain,
however until now, these efforts have beenThis year, the ZDHC Programme madepragmatic process for managing hazardous

icals management, and the protection offragmented.

significant strides setting the stage forchemicals.

workers, consumers and the environment.

Now in its fourth year, the ZDHC Pro-As we continue to learn and make new

future evolution and growth.
The difficulty in solving this issue is thatthe value-chain is large, complex and

The ZDHC Programme transitioned to agramme has firmly shifted its focus fromdiscoveries, we welcome new organisa-

interlinked. No one brand or supplier canseparate legal entity, the ZDHC Foundation.

the development of tools and standards

tions to join us in ourchange it alone.

Along with the appointment of myself as

towards implementation, and I am excited

mission, focussed on

Executive Director, and a small ded-

to be leading this ambitious collaboration

working towards a

icated team spread across Europe

forward.

safer, more sustainable world.

and the United States, the ZDHCHeadquarters was established in

Collaboration underpins the work

Amsterdam.

of the Programme, and we are gratefulFrank Michel,to our contributors who have each been

Executive Director

The ZDHC Foundation’s first Board

involved in creating and implementing theof Directors were elected, and the
Joint Roadmap Update for the programme was published, refining thescope of the programme to four key*The ZDHC Board of Directors

focus areas, and two cross-cuttingareas.

Industry collaboration is essential in driving new standards forward.

Wastewater quality was added to the scopeof the Programme, and the first step to-

The ZDHC Programme was born from anwards publishing Wastewater Guidelines

awareness that holistic systems-change is

was achieved with the release of the Textile

required, and that to be successful

Industry Wastewater Discharge Quality

all participants within the value-chain

Standards Guidelines Literature Review.

must be involved.
Two additional major highlights include
In 2011, six brands joined forces as thethe second update to the Programme’s

ZDHC Group to collaborate on this issue,

Manufacturing Restricted Substances List

*Board of Directors Left to Right: Charles Dickinson, Primark, Scott Vitters, Nike, Graham Storrie, Esprit, Stefan Seidel, Puma, Monica
Gorman, New Balance Athletic Shoe, Frouke Bruinsma, G-Star Raw, Nathaniel Sponsler, Gap, Joyce Tsoi, H&M and Philipp Meister,
4
Adidas Group.

5
iStock / SerrNovik

The ZDHC Programme and Objectives
In 2015, The ZDHC Pro-

How we work

gramme released its Joint

The operational plans for each area cov-

Roadmap Update, which

er three types of work. These are detailed

built on The ZDHC Pro-

below.

The ZDHC Programme

gramme's successes to dateand mapped the path for-

These three categories are key for effect-

ward for the next five years.

ing industry change – not only for creatingaligned guidance and tools, but for aligning

The roadmap is a clear andon how we effectively implement on the

Manufacturing Restricted

strategic effort to focus

ground.

Substances List (MRSL) and

Programme efforts andConformity Guidance

Audit Protocol

Research

This focus area works towards

This focus area serves toharmonising the audit tool withidentify high priority chemicals

resources, and outlines the transition of the

Engaging a network of stakeholders also is

Programme from seven workstreams to four

important in mutually supporting and am-

This focus area includes two

the Sustainable Apparel Coalition

that present a possible hazard

focus areas and two cross-cutting areas.

plifying this change throughout the industry

primary tracks of work; up-(SAC) and the Outdoor Industry

and should be managed, orvalue chain.

dates to the MRSL and effec-

Association (OIA), finalising thehave no or few replacements.

These areas were identified to optimise

tive engagement to promote

audit conformance process and

The ZDHC Research List sends

impact and complement the work of otheradherence to MRSL chemical

engaging industry groups to pro-a signal that alternatives areindustry associations and non-governmental

use restrictions.

mote adoption of the audit tools.

needed and drives action

organisations.

towards finding solutions.

1. Standard Setting Guidance
Creating and maintaining ZDHC MRSL, Research, Audit Protocol, Wastewater
Quality, Training and Data and Disclosure guidance to achieve acceptanceand use of ZDHC tools and processes as the industry standard.

Wastewater Quality

Data & Disclosure

Training

This focus area is aimed at

This cross-cutting area ensures

This cross-cutting area sup-Creating action plans to ensure implementation, adoption and widespreadminimising chemical pollutants

that to be effective, we work

ports understanding, accep-

industry acceptance of ZDHC guidance and processes.

discharged into the environ-with other organisations totance and use of ZDHC tools

ment through good processdevelop standardised chemis-

across the value-chain. This

controls and effective chemical

try management data in each

includes web-based and in-per-

Identifying who and how we engage with key stakeholders to maintainmanagement by developingof our focus areas.

son training and incorporating

the credibility of ZDHC guidance and ensure adoption, implementation

Wastewater Quality Guidance.

2. Collaborative Implementation

3. Engagement

country and regional training

and widespread use of this guidance.

needs.

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7

2015
Overviewof Achievements

In 2015, the ZDHC contributor base grew

JANUARY

from 18 to 21 brands, and seven associates.
JULY

In January, ZDHC registered as a legal
entity under Dutch Law and the ZDHCFoundation was established.

In July, the Chemical Management System (CMS) Guidance

JULY

was released.

In July, the ZDHC Boardof Directors

AUGUSTwas elected.
In August, ZDHC released the Joint

AUGUST

Roadmap Update, transitioning

In August, ZDHC’s firstthe programme from seven work-

Executive Director andstreams into four focus areas andtwo cross-cutting areas.

a dedicated team spread
between The Netherlands

AUGUSTand the United States ofAmerica was appointed.

In August, the ZDHCFoundation Headquarters,

SEPTEMBER

based in Amsterdam,
was established.

In September, an update to
NOVEMBERZDHC's Manufacturing
Restricted Subtances List
(MRSL) was released.

In November, ZDHC's stakeholder meeting“In the past, we were working in silos within our brands; this is
our effort to come together and work more effectively towards
the elimination of hazardous chemicals. The ZDHC Programme
is about collaborative implementation – speaking to the value-

was held with more then 100 participantsfrom across government, the non-profit

DECEMBER

sector, academia, chemical manufactur-

In December, the Textile Industry

ers, material suppliers, and leading brands,

Sustainable Chemistry and Policy, Gap Inc. and ZDHC Board

Wastewater Discharge Quality Stan-working together to ask critical questions to

Chairmandards Literature Review, a compre-

pave the way forward.

chain with one common voice.” Nathaniel Sponsler, – Sr. Manager

hensive review of wastewater discharge guidance in the current textile
industry, was released.
iStock / oonal

89Engaging with key
stakeholders by
presenting
the ZDHC Programme
at the following events:

Green Textile Symposium |China Leather Brand Conference Bejing |ITMA 2015 Milan and the 2nd Textile

BLC Leather Working Group Scott Launch

January – Guangzhou, (Nike, Inc)

June - (Nike)

Colourant and Chemical Leaders Forumof MRSL v.1.1 | December - London (Scott,Programme | November - Milan (Benetton

Echols, ZDHC Technical Director)

China and Asia Textile Forum |Roundtable meeting between China

February - Beijing (adidas Group and H&M)

Synthetic Leather companies and ZDHC
Brands | August - (C&A, Nike)

Interfiliere Hong Kong 2015 Innovationand Sustainability Conference | March -BLC Event | September - Hong Kong

Hong Kong (H&M)(adidas Group)

Sustainable Fashion BusinessBangladesh Second Stakeholder Engage-

Consortium | May - Hong Kong (H&M)

ment Workshop | October - Bangladesh(H&M)

Group)
Sustainable Manufacturing Business ConZDHC Annual Stakeholder Meeting |sortium | December - Beijing (Frank Michel,November - Levi Strauss & Co. Headquar-

ZDHC Executive Director)

ters in San Francisco“We joined ZDHC because we knew one brand cannot solve this issue alone.
It’s exciting brands and chemical companies are coming together with NGOs to solve
this issue and really make a difference. The power of the collaboration of ZDHC has
proven itself over the past few years, and it’s now gaining momentum.”- Charles Dickinson, ZDHC Board Treasurer and Primark's Environmental Sustainability
Controller

1011Focus Area Update: MRSL
and Conformity Guidance
2015

2016-17“The ZDHC MRSL creates one harmonised direction for the global
supply chain.” Phillip Meister – Manager Sustainable Materials andInnovation at adidas Group and ZDHC Board Member
2018-192020

MRSL and Conformity Guidance
There are two primary tracks of work related to this focus area, specifically updates tothe ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) and the effective engagement
for adherence to ZDHC MRSL chemical use restrictions.
1|

Develop MRSL
Leather, V.1.1

MRSL Leather,
V.2

Standard
Setting2|
Collaborative
Implementation

3|
Engagement

Develop andalign on conformance process

Identify andengagestakeholders

EngageChinese leather
industry associations

Publish MRSL
conformance
process

Continue toidentify andengage with
key industry
stakeholders

Update MRSL
as needed

ZDHC MRSL
recognised asindustry standard

Widespreadindustry
adoption of
ZDHC MRSL

Third, party
stakeholders
support MRSL
and industry
considers
it standard
businesspractice

iStock / ljpat

Overview

The ZDHC MRSLIn the ZDHC Joint Roadmap Update, ZDHCThe MRSL is a list of chemical substances

Signatory Brands committedbanned from intentional use in facilities thatto defining and developing an MRSL

process textile materials and trim parts infor the textile and footwear industry.

apparel and footwear.

In doing so, ZDHC brands recognised theIt establishes acceptable concentration

value of addressing hazardous substances

limits for these substances as impurities or

potentially used and discharged into theby-products in chemical formulations usedenvironment during manufacturing

within manufacturing facilities.

and related processes deep within thevalue-chain - not just those present in

Limits defined by the MRSL are designed tofinished products.

eliminate the possibility of intentional use oflisted substances.

In 2014, the Programme released its first
MRSL and, in December 2015, this was

It is the Programme’s vision to have theexpanded to include leather.

ZDHC MRSL and conformity process
guidance serve as the global textile andContinue toengage Chinese
leather industry
associations

apparel industry standard.

Educateother industry
associations

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13

Achievements 2015
In 2015, the Programme published Version 1.1 of the ZDHCMRSL, which expanded the original list created in 2014 toinclude leather.

2015

MANUFACTURING
RESTRICTEDSUBSTANCES LIST
VERSION 1.1

The MRSL Version 1.1 was developed by
ZDHC textile and footwear brands in closeZERO DISCHARGEOF HAZARDOUS
CHEMICALS PROGRAMME

collaboration with third-party technicalexperts and global industry associations.

The MRSL Version 1.1 includes chemicals
used in facilities that process materials and trim
parts for use in textile and footwear.

I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H

EN0513151021GNV
EN1109151038GNV"The ZDHC MRSL offers brands and suppliers a harmonised approach, andlist of restricted chemicals, that are not to be used in textile and footwear
production. ZDHC brands will be communicating the ZDHC MRSL Version 1.1
standard to their supply chains. This is of particular interest to wet processing facilities such as dyehouses, laundries, and tanneries who can thenrequest chemical formulations that comply with the ZDHC MRSL Version
1.1 standard from their chemical suppliers." - Scott Echols, ZDHC Technical
Director

Next Steps
These chemicals include solvents, cleaners, adhesives, paints, inks,
detergents, dyes, colourants, auxiliaries, coatings and finishing agentsThe MRSL Conformance process will be finalised and published inused during raw material production, wet-processing, maintenance,

2016. It will describe how the value-chain can assess claims of 				wastewater treatment, sanitation and pest control.

conformance with the MRSL by chemical suppliers.
ZDHC brands will continue implementing the ZDHC MRSLThe MRSL will assist brands and organisations throughout value-chains and thein their value-chains.

broader industry in phasing out/substituting hazardous substances potentially usedand discharged into the environment during manufacturing and related processes.

The annual review of the MRSL will be conducted. A transparent
process will be used to update the MRSL as needed to cover additional
materials and chemical substances.
ZDHC will explore ways to scale adoption of the MRSL outside of ZDHC brands.

1415

Focus Area Update: Research2015

2016-172018-192020

3|
Engagement

1|Standard
Setting2|
Collaborative
Implementation

Definition ofa process forfinding safer
alternatives for
substances on
the Research
List

Defineresearch
process andstart pilot
project with
one prioritised
substance

Revision andimprovement
to find safer
alternatives andways ofengaging withstakeholders

Standardised
process forcontinuous
research andevaluation ofsafer
alternatives

Revision of
Research Listand definitionof process foradding new
chemicals

Defined andassessedprocess foradding andremoving
substances to/from the Research List

Continue
pilot project:research, collection and evaluation of alternatives

Review research
process andkick-off further
research forother substances or functional
uses on the current Research
List
Review current
process of adding chemicals
to the Research
List considering
the MRSL workand prioritization framework

16

Engagechemicalindustry,
research
institutes,
governments
and otherstakeholders

Enhanceengagementwithstakeholders
that arespecialised inparticular fiels
of researchContinuous
engagementof chemicalindustry,
research
institutes,
governments
and otherinterested
stakeholders

Overview
In conjunction with key collaborators fromIt seeks to encourage research into

the chemical industry, academic researchers

the development of safer alternatives

and governmental agencies, this focus area

for substances on the ZDHC Researchencourages research into the development

List so brands and their value-chainsof safer alternatives and conducts research

can make informed decisions, and conduct

on priority chemicals.

research on priority chemicals for whichsafer alternatives do not currently exist.

Continueresearch forsubstances on
the Research
List

Apply process
for revision of
the Research
List (adding anddeleting substances)iStock / nayneung117

Achievements 2015

Next Steps

A process to identify safer alternatives listed on

In 2016, the final research process will be published. All interested stakeholders

the ZDHC Research List was defined.

are welcome to submit alternatives.
After the test period on Dimethylformamide (DMF) is finalised,
the ZDHC Research Focus Area Team will conduct a review of the process

The first substance on the Research List was prioritised

and revise and/or create supporting tools if needed.

for substitution. This chemical, Dimethylformamide (DMF),
is the Programme’s first research request for alternatives.

Once adjustments have been finished, the ZDHC Research Focus Area Teamwill initiate research actions for other substances or functional use caseson the current Research List.

The ZDHC Research Team engaged with ZDHC brands and the ZDHC Technical

In collaboration with the MRSL Focus Area, the ZDHC Research Focus Area Team

Advisory Committee on technical details of the chosen chemical, DMF.

will further define a process for adding new substances to the Research List.
The long-term vision is that substances on the Research List movefrom the Research List to the to MRSL in order for the ZDHC Programme

Additionally, a chemical hazard assessment method was defined to ensure

to phase out these substances.

comparable results. All alternatives submitted will be assessed according tothis method, and based on this, ZDHC brands will be able to make informed
decisions on chemical substitution.

18

19

iStock / harodominguez

Focus Area Update: Audit Protocol

3|
Engage-2015

1|Standard
Setting

Update Audit Tool

Collaborative
Implementation

ZDHC approval of
updated Audit Tool

ZDHC approvalof training andimplementation plan

2018-19

Update Audit Tool asneededEstablish industry
audit standard as
ANSI/OECDWork with SAC toconverge assessment
tool framework
Publish Chemical
Management System(CMS) Guidance
Manual2|

2016-17

Update CMS Guidance
Manual as needed

Update CMS
Guidance Manual asneeded2020

Non-disclosure Agreement and Memorandumof Understanding rollout
with key stakeholders.

ZDHC audit isa recognised
industry standard

Update CMS
Guidance Manualas needed

ZDHC approval of update
Audit Tool, as needed

ZDHC approval of training
and implementation withkey stakeholders for updated Audit Tool

ment

Work with industry
groups (OEKO-TEX,
Bluesign etc) to alignapproach and audit
framework

Identify and engage 2-3
key stakeholders foraudit

Key stakeholder
endorsement/ public announcement

Key stakeholders advocate for use of the audit
tool within the textile andfootware value-chain.

Overview
The ZDHC Audit Protocol focus area

It creates a comprehensive and pragmatic

tools include the ZDHC Audit Tool, whichapproach for managing chemicals in theis supported by the ZDHC Chemicalvalue-chain with content arranged into three

Management System (CMS) Guidance

main categories according to the desired

Manual.

level of attention - foundational, progressive
and aspirational.

ZDHC approval of training and implementation plan such as ANSI/OECD standard

The Audit Tool enables in-depth assessment

Internal maintenanceof audit spreadsheets
ZDHC approval of data
schema for auditsof chemical management practices byEffective development and adoption of

suppliers. Suppliers are encouraged to

the Audit Tool together with the CMS

continuously improve against the principles

Guidance Manual is pivotal in supportingof the CMS Guidance Manual in order toimplementation of the ZDHC MRSL.

support ZDHC brands in furthering their

Develop and align on
audit conformance
process

Finalise audit conformancealignment

ZDHC brand utilisationof Audit Protocol

ZDHC, SAC, OIA utilisationof Audit Protocol

chemicals management practices and work

Success in this focus area will be measured

towards their zero discharge goals.

by widespread industry adoption of the
ZDHC Audit Tool as the global textile and20

Widespreadindustry adoptionof audit to all tiersof value-chain

The purpose of the CMS Guidance Manual

footwear standard, and extensive use of theis to provide guidelines for suppliers totool by all tiers of the value-chain.

develop, evolve and maintain their own
chemical management system.

21

Achievements 2015
In July 2015, the Chemical Management System (CMS) Guidance Manual was
released. Aimed at manufacturing suppliers, brands, retailers and chemical
suppliers it outlines a comprehensive and practical process for managing
chemicals whilst allowing an entry point for different organisations in the valuechain. It is intended to be a living document and will be periodically updated.

A significant step towards alignment on industry chemical assessment

iStock / luxizeng

was the agreement on a Memorandum of Understanding with the
Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) with the aim of harmonising

Next Stepsthe ZDHC Audit Tool with relevant parts of the SAC HIGG Facilities
Environment Module (FEM).

In 2016 the harmonisation process with the HIGG FEM 3.0 module will be finalised.
Going forward, the Audit Tool will become the verification process of theself-assessment input by suppliers for chemical management in the FEM.

In August, the Joint Roadmap Update was published, which worked to alignthe application of the Audit Tool to existing systems. The ZDHC Programme

The common aim of SAC, OIA and the ZDHC Programme is to create one consistent

will continue to develop and refine the Audit Tool as the standard for chemical

set of chemical management assessment tools to evaluate manufacturers’

assessment in the apparel sector.

chemical management across their respective value-chains. Working
collaboratively, the Programme will lead content development for future updates
on chemical management in the chemicals module of the HIGG FEM and participate
in the overall governance of the FEM.
During this process, the Audit Tool will be refurbished to incorporate a key 		
performance indicator format, ensuring consistency and adaptability
to brands and suppliers.
Next steps include finalising the chemical assessment tool harmonisation,
as well as any resulting necessary updates of the Audit Tool and CMS
Guidance Manual to ensure alignment with the FEM update.
Further, this focus area will focus on engaging other stakeholders regarding 		
harmonisation of ZDHC brand adoption of the ZDHC CMS Guidance Manual
Version 2.0 and Audit Tool Version 3.0.

22

23

Focus Area Update:
Wastewater Quality
2015

1|Standard
Setting

Benchmarkexisting
standards andexisting data at
facilities

3|
Engagement

2016-172018-19

Identify
and engage
stakeholders

Convenea suppliergroup toadvise, include
representatives
to be on theinitial committee

2020

Third-party
stakeholders
support process
guidance andconsider it business practice

Align on parameters anddefine scope (including target
facilities)

Establish and publish
Wastewater Quality Guidance (mid-2016)2|
Collaborative
Implementation

Secure technicalexpertise by appointing a Technical Advisory
Committee

Review andmaintain ZDHC
Wastewater
Quality Process
Guidance

ZDHC Wastewater Quality
Guidance is therecognised industry standard

Draft and roll out training
to suppliers on wastewater
Quality Process Guidance

Determine approach andindustry implementation
partners (e.g SAC, bluesign

Widespread
adoption of
ZDHC Wastewater Quality
Guidanceand other third-parties)

Convene working group on
transparency strategy explore funding options
and models for local
community access to data
supporting Right to Know

Implement guidelines and provide
public accessto data in key
regions

Roadmap andlist of activities
to scale transparency strategy
in key regions

Overview
Well-designed, properly functioning

Work in this focus area seeks to assess

wastewater treatment plants, good

effluent discharge improvements forprocess controls and effective chemicals

conventional wastewater parameters suchmanagement are key tools to minimising

as BOD (biochemical oxygen demand),chemical, physical and biological pollutants

COD (chemical oxygen demand), TOC (total

discharged into the environment.

organic carbon) or Colour.

To support industry-wide wastewater

The Programme's wastewater guidance willtreatment guidance, in 2015, the ZDHC

ensure harmonised test methods and clarify

Programme expanded its focus to include

minimum requirements and good practice.

Wastewater Quality.
Implementation of the guidelines will ensure
Factory wastewater discharge may containconsistent data and avoid duplication ofchemicals, including chemicals found in thetesting and confusion in the value-chain.

11 priority classes.
The risk of releasing these chemicals will
be reduced or eliminated by adoption of
ZDHC's wastewater guidance as the global

Provide guidance tomills on best practice
implementation

24

80% of suppliers
sign onto the
ZDHC Wastewater Quality Process Guidance

textile and footwear industry standard.

25

Achievements 2015

Next Steps
Keeping the goal of zero discharge firmly in mind, the ZDHC programme

To coordinate industry efforts, reduce duplication and clarify requirements

will work with key collaborators to formulate new Wastewater Quality Guidelines

throughout the value-chain, the ZDHC Programme undertook a literaturedue for release in September 2016.

review of wastewater discharge guidance in the current textile industry,
published in December 2015.

These guidelines will focus on ZDHC MRSL-listed chemical substancesand conventional wastewater parameters to reduce or eliminate
the risk of releasing MRSL-banned substances.

Information gathered during this review process showed a wide

Developing a single, unified discharge guideline and standardised 			range of discharge regulations and measurement methods that differ

analytical methods for monitoring wastewater quality will benefit the textile

from nation to nation, as well as between guidelines published byindustry greatly and will drive momentum towards meeting the Programme’s zerobrands and amongst multi-brand consortia.

discharge goal.

Findings from this review will be used as a baseline for formulating a
new set of common industry wastewater discharge guidelines.

This newly foundedfocus area is
supported by
five international
wastewater experts
from Bangladesh,
China, Germany
and the UnitedStates, who will
help develop thewastewater guidance
document.

iStock / Avatar_023

26

27

Cross-Cutting Area Update: Training
2015

2016-172018-192020

3|

Stakeholders scale-up
trainings throughout industry and suppliers seek
training and build capacity
for business innovation inchemical management

Engagement
1|Standard
Setting

Develop procedures fortrainer selection, approvaland evaluation
Develop strategic plan tosupport focus areas

Training providers

Support focus areas on topic-specific training

Develop/update
and extend topic
training as needed

Review training
KPIs and alignment
with data schema

Update training
strategy

Align with otherindustry organisations (SAC, EOG, GIZ,
CNTAC, BGMEA)
Local chemistry associations (MRSL training)

Update training
strategy beyond
2020

Mills/dyehouses

Curriculum
recognised asindustry standard

2|
Collaborative
Implementation(China)Continue toengage theseorganisations

Collaborate with
IPE to educate
suppliers with
non-conformities

Continue collaboration with IPE
to extend supplier education

Overview

Scale up basic/foundational
training in the 5 prioritised
countries; develop and pilot
progressive trainings
Initiate tender process andconduct trainings

Align with SAC,
GIZ, CNTAC,BGMEA, OIA,
in the UNEP
Training Project

Scale-upprogressive
training tovalue-chain
Measure training successthrough KPIs

Update training
as recommended by KPIs

Measure training successthrough KPIs
ZDHC trainings
are well attended and recognised industry standard

28

A well-informed and educated value-chain

Working closely with each focus area, thisis a precondition for implementing ZDHC

team is developing a long-term training plan

tools, and to reach the Programme’s zeroand comprehensive curriculum package thatdischarge goal.

aligns training modules with other ZDHC
tools.

The objective of this cross-cutting area is
to plan, develop, time and launch training

Training packages will be updated as nec-

to support both the understanding, accep-

essary to maintain harmonisation, andtance and use of the ZDHC Programme

going-forward, training will be offered bothfocus area process guidance and expedientonline, and in-person according to country

value-chain scale-up.

and regional training needs.

29

Achievements 2015
In 2015, five foundational chemical management training
modules were published.

A strategic plan to support focus areas was developed.

Progressive chemical management training was initiated.

A process for ZDHC training provider selection, approval and evaluation was
defined.

Next Steps
A tender was released and initiated, and the process foraccrediting training providers begun.

In 2016, the Programme will appoint its first accredited training providers.
These training providers will have the required technical expertise and experience
to deliver training in local languages and meet the needs of the value-chain
located in five priority countries: China, Bangladesh, India, Vietnam and Turkey.
To scale up this training, and to reach other countries and regions, the ZDHCProgramme is developing a robust training infrastructure with an emphasis on
quality, consistency and technical competency in chemical management.
By working collaboratively with the Data & Disclosure focus area team,
key training KPIs will be defined so improvements can be measured andreported on.

iStock / Cathy Yeulet“It’s one thing to have a standard on a piece of paper; it’s another to have 20 different waysof implementing it. With ZDHC, we are working to demystify some of the complexity aroundchemical management.” – Anna Walker, Senior Director, Government Affairs and Public Policy atLevi Strauss & Co

30

2016 will also see further development of the progressive chemical management
training.

31

Focus Area Update: Data and Disclosure

3|
Engage-Explore harmonisation
opportunities with SAC

Continue to align schema andencourage adoption with support of key stakeholders (e.g
IPE, CNTAC, OIA, SAC)

Begin formal data schema collaboration with
CNTAC

Continue to engage with
CNTAC

Engage service
providers to test
interoperabilityof data schemaContinue to work withservice providers

ment

2015

1|
Standard
Setting

2016-17

Complete MRSL data standards

Publish annual updates
to schema; add schemafrom other focus areas

Complete data standards forchemical companies topublish their MRSL compliant
formulations

Incorporate Audit, Wastewater Quality and Training lead data standard
additions2018-192020

Publish annual
updates to MRSL,
Audit Protocol,
Wastewater Quality and Training
schemasExplore additional
partnerships toalign confidential
versus public disclosure key performance indicators

Seek broader
adoption throughcross-industry
collaboration (e.gautomotive, electronics)

Overview

Work with service providers toformally publish data standards and engage with key
stakeholders
Use data insights to inform Research focus area

The ZDHC Programme and its value-chain

between different platforms, a common

participants including mills, chemical com-

language for data is essential.

panies and third-party service providers

Liaise with focus area
teams to develop/harmonise training to an
e-learning kit

have been exploring challenges in data

In 2014, the Programme began developing

capture and reporting.

a universal set of standards to organise theway in which key chemical data should be

Commence development of
the MRSL into XML format

Data touches all parts of the work we do,collected and shared for the benefit of allfrom MRSL and conformance within formu-

stakeholders.

lations, to measuring improvement in water
2|
Collaborative
Implementation

Complete pilot; review anddocument pilot learnings

Pilot additional elements
to schema

Explore ZDHC role in theinformation sharing
platform (registry)

Formally publish bestpractices in data management

Continue collaboration withchemical companies tosimplify data inputs

Pilot additional
elements to schema

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Align ZDHC data
schema with otherchemicals management industry
standards

Proliferate data
standards beyond
ZDHC

quality by elimination and substitution. These

As individual brands begin to work towards

are all relative as we move along the roadmap.

using the data standards in their valuechains, the ZDHC Programme will work

Drive strategies
with insights
gained from data
management
efforts

iStock / Rex_Wholster

Data exchange provides the dashboard towith other organisations to develop effective

show progress. If we are to leverage infor-

means for sharing standardised chemistrymation, and share and report efficiently

management data in each of our areas of focus.

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Achievements 2015
The Programme moved forward testing and refining the the data points developed

iStock / SerrNovik

for the schema towards the end of 2014.

Four signatory brands took part in a pilot to roll out data collection
within 28 wet processing facilities.

For the pilot, facilities were requested to uploaded chemical inventories, deliveries
and use to an IT platform. The data collected was then processed to report on
chemical conformance to ZDHC MRSL Version 1.0. and check usage volumes.

Next StepsIn July 2015, 22 stakeholders from the pilot were invited to a forum

The Data and Disclosure cross-cutting area is now moving towards implementation.

in Germany to review results and lessons learnt. The data schema
and the pilots proved successful. One of the key messages from the

The early part of 2016 will see the ZDHC Chemical Registry established as ameeting was to improve the ease of data input for the facilities.

backbone for MRSL conformance progress.
The Chemical Registry is intended to be the product database of all chemical

During the Programme’s 2015 annual meeting in San Francisco, a live demonstra-

suppliers and their products used in the textile and footwear value chain includingtion of a smartphone app, to be used as a potential method to capture delivery andtheir evaluated conformance level towards ZDHC’s MRSL.

inventory information within a mill, was presented.
Phase one of the data schema will be published to allow platform providers to use asingle standard to develop IT services in chemical conformance.
With MRSL conformance data well on track, new sub-groups were created to specify

The ZDHC MRSL will be written from the current pdf format into a XML data schema

data requirements in other focus areas, specifically: Wastewater Quality, Audit Proto-

to widen the scope of use within platforms.

col and Training.
2016 will see the initial rollout and brand uptake of data platforms for chemical
use and conformance.
Wastewater discharge reporting will be a priority for the data team.

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Ambition and Long-term Strategy
MRSL and Conformity Guidance

improving chemical management, theTo facilitate implementation of the MRSL,

Audit Protocol Focus Area will be working

we will support and help the industry

together with the Sustainable Apparelwith MRSL Conformity Guidance. This is

Coalition (SAC), the Outdoor Industry

to be released in 2016, and will support

Association (OIA) and the Leather Working

We know our goal is ambitious. Going forwardfacilities to implement the use of chemicalGroup (LWG) to harmonise audit tools. By

we will continue to maintain ZDHC tools andformulations that meet the requirements ofharmonising these tools we can reduce theIn this 2015 Annual Report, we have reflecteddevelop supporting guidance. We believe that

the ZDHC MRSL. For all substances on theburden on the value-chain and improveon the achievements of each focus and cross-tool implementation is fundamental to driving

ZDHC MRSL, there are safer alternatives

chemicals management.

cutting area against the Programme’s Jointchange. Therefore, we will be assisting brands

available for use. It is our mission to ensure

Roadmap. Below, we describe how the ZDHCand the global value-chain to meet ZDHC

the list of MRSL-conforming products is

Wastewater Quality

Foundation will be working to have a lasting

standards to minimise duplicative efforts,

easily accessible for the value-chain.

In 2015, Wastewater Quality was added as

impact on the textile and footwear value-chain.

drive efficiency and keep driving towards the

We are working on accelerating towards our
zero discharge goal and establishing the ZDHC

Developing the ZDHC
Toolbox and Focusing on
Implementation

Foundation as the global centre of excellence forchemical management.

ambitious goal.

Collaborating with
Contributors and Engaging
Key Stakeholders

Expanding the ZDHC Teamand Geographic Scopea ZDHC Programme Focus Area, and in
Research

2016, Wastewater Guidelines will be added

Currently, we are encouraging theto the ZDHC Programme’s toolbox. Thesedevelopment of safer alternatives, or toguidelines will focus on ZDHC MRSL-listed

define limits on contaminant levels, for ninechemical substances and conventional (e.g.

prioritised chemical substances. In 2016, we

COD, metals, solids) wastewater parameters

As we continue to ask critical questions to

In 2016, the ZDHC Programme will focus onlook forward to releasing our first Researchequally to reduce or eliminate the risk ofpave the way forward, we will deepen our

expanding and deepening its engagement andBrief detailing the requirements for one ofreleasing MRSL-banned substances.

collaboration with existing ZDHC brands as

impact in the Asian region. The placement of anthese substances, sending a signal to allwell as increasing the number of contributors toAsia Director in April 201,6 will create a strong

interested stakeholders for the development

Developing a single, unified discharge

the ZDHC Programme, who, together, drive the

ZDHC presence in that region. Further, our Headof a sustainable alternative.

guideline and standardised analytical

success of the Programme.

of Communications joined the ZDHC Team in

methods for monitoring wastewater quality

January to further accelerate our global profile

The number of chemicals on the ZDHC

will benefit the textile industry greatly andand engagement activities.

Research List is expected to grow as anwill drive momentum towards meeting theorganisations of different sizes and types

integral part of the ongoing MRSL review

Programme’s zero discharge goal.

to engage in the Programme, shape ZDHCand related stakeholder input process. As astandards and implement them in theirresult of these efforts, chemical substancesTraining and Data and Disclosure

respective value-chains. In addition, we will

will be placed on the MRSL as safer

In our Cross-Cutting Areas of Training andcontinue to engage with strategic stakeholders

alternatives are identified and developed.

Data and Disclosure, we will continue to

Our contributor model aims to enable

ensure cross-functional connectivity in thein our work, from government, the nonprofit
sector and academia.

Audit Protocolvalue-chain and roll out high quality training

To help brands control risks, advance theirmodules to our partners in the industry.

efforts and continuously work towards

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37

Join the ZDHC Programme

What are the benefits of joining ZDHC?

Join us in creating and harmonising standards to ensure safer chemical management
and the protection of workers, consumers and the environment.

•

Stay ahead of legal and regulatory developments with regards
to chemical management

The ZDHC Programme is open to

ZDHC provides different contribution levels

organisations of different sizes and types,

for organisations involved in the textile andcommitted to driving industry-wide change

footwear industries who have a public senior•

Access ZDHC tools and products

towards the goal of zero discharge ofmanagement commitment to sustainable•

Access chemical management and industry expertisehazardous chemicals.

development.

•

Network and be associated with leading brands, learning and sharing best•

Work as part of a collaboration, developing and implementing
ZDHC products and tools

practices on chemical management and tool applications and implementation
The Programme's three contributor categories are:•Create leadership visibility for your organisation by being part of the ZDHC,
driving transformative industry change.

1.

Signatory Brands – Open to brands and retailers.

2.

Value-Chain Affiliates – Open to the textile/footwear industries andrelated chemical industry and other solution providers.

3.

Associates – Open to industry associations, NGOs and institutional
partners such as government, institutions or academia.

If your organisation shares the ZDHC Programme's vision and goals, and is willing tocollaborate in order to achieve transformative industry-wide change, we encourage you to
consider joining as a contributor.

www.roadmaptozero.com© 2016 Stichting ZDHC Foundation. All Rights Reserved.

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