COSMOS STANDARD
Technical Guide

Version 4.1
1 March 2024

wwwww.cosmos-standard.orgww

COSMOS STANDARDTECHNICAL GUIDETable of Contents
INTRODUCTION .................................................................................................... 3

SECTION 1: OVERVIEW KEY REQUIREMENTS FOR COSMOS SIGNATURES: COSMOSORGANIC, COSMOS NATURAL, COSMOS CERTIFIED, COSMOS APPROVEDSECTION 2: GUIDANCE ON INTERPRETING TECHNICAL POINTS AND CRITERIA1.

INTRODUCTION .............................................................................................. 92.

REGULATIONS ................................................................................................ 93.

SCOPE ......................................................................................................... 10

4.

DEFINITIONS ............................................................................................... 115.

GENERAL ..................................................................................................... 12

6.

7.

8.

9.

5.1

Precautionary principle ............................................................................. 12

5.2

Animal testing ......................................................................................... 13

5.3

Sustainability .......................................................................................... 13

ORIGIN AND PROCESSING OF INGREDIENTS ................................................... 14
6.1

Ingredients categories ............................................................................. 14

6.2

Calculation rules for organic percentages .................................................... 16

COMPOSITION RULES .................................................................................... 26
7.1

Cosmetic products under organic certification ............................................. 26

7.2

Cosmetic products under natural certification .............................................. 29

7.3

Calculation rules for natural origin percentage ............................................ 29

7.4

Palm oil, palm kernel oil and derivatives ..................................................... 29

7.5

Raw materials with organic content under certification ................................. 29

7.6

Raw materials without organic content under approval ................................. 29

STORAGE, MANUFACTURING AND PACKAGING ................................................. 30
8.1

Storage .................................................................................................. 30

8.2

Manufacturing ......................................................................................... 30

8.3

Packaging ............................................................................................... 30

8.4

Fabrics ................................................................................................... 32

ENVIRONMENTAL MANAGEMENT ..................................................................... 33
9.1

Environmental management plan .............................................................. 33

9.2

Cleaning and Hygiene .............................................................................. 33

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10. LABELLING AND COMMUNICATION .................................................................. 34
10.1 General rules .......................................................................................... 34
10.2 For products under organic certification ...................................................... 34
10.3 For products under natural certification ...................................................... 34
10.4 For raw materials with organic content ....................................................... 34
10.5 For raw materials with no organic content .................................................. 34
10.6 Supporting literature ................................................................................ 35
10.7 Organic in the name of a company or product range .................................... 35
10.8 Use of the signature, name or term related to this Standard ......................... 35
11. CERTIFICATION AND APPROVAL ..................................................................... 36
11.1 Certification ............................................................................................ 36
11.2 Approval of raw materials ......................................................................... 37
11.3 Certification Bodies .................................................................................. 37
12. IMPLEMENTATION OF THE STANDARD ............................................................. 38
12.1 Coming into force .................................................................................... 38
12.2 Application date ...................................................................................... 38
12.3 Transitional measures .............................................................................. 38
Appendix I ......................................................................................................... 39
Appendix II ........................................................................................................ 39
Appendix III ....................................................................................................... 39
Appendix IV ........................................................................................................ 39
Appendix V ......................................................................................................... 39
Appendix VI and VII ............................................................................................ 40
Appendix VIII ..................................................................................................... 42
Appendix IX ........................................................................................................ 43

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COSMOS STANDARDTECHNICAL GUIDEINTRODUCTION
This Guide is for companies to better understand the COSMOS-standard requirements
through examples and illustrations of some of the criteria. It provides interpretations andclarifications approved by COSMOS-standard Committees.

The information in this Technical Guide is presented in 2 sections:•

SECTION 1 is an overview of key requirements for COSMOS signatures. This is asummary based on all the relevant criteria presented in the COSMOS-standard, the
COSMOS-standard Control Manual and the COSMOS-standard Labelling Guide•

SECTION 2 gives guidance on interpreting technical points and criteria in the
COSMOS-standard

The numbering follows the same numbering as in the COSMOS-Standard.

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COSMOS STANDARDTECHNICAL GUIDESECTION 1: OVERVIEW KEY REQUIREMENTS FOR COSMOS SIGNATURES: COSMOS ORGANIC,COSMOS NATURAL, COSMOS CERTIFIED AND COSMOS APPROVED
The requirements as summarised here are based on the COSMOS-standard, the COSMOS-standard Control Manual and the
COSMOS-standard Labelling Guide. The scheme documents are available on www.cosmos-standard.org.

COSMOS-standard
signature
Categories

COSMOSORGANICCOSMOS
NATURALCOSMOS
CERTIFIEDCOSMETIC FINISHED PRODUCTSCOSMETIC INGREDIENTS

Beneficiaries

Subcontractor,
manufacturer andbrand owner of organic
products

Subcontractor, manufacturer
and brand owner of raw
materials with organic content

Scope

Scope 1: certification of organic or natural cosmetic products, raw materials
with organic content, base formulas

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Subcontractor,
manufacturer andbrand owner ofnatural products

COSMOSAPPROVED

Manufacturer and brandowner of raw materials
without organic content
Scope 2: approval of nonorganic raw materials that canbe used in certified references

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COSMOS STANDARDTECHNICAL GUIDE

Main criteria

Referenceschemedocuments

COSMOSORGANICCOSMOS
NATURALCOSMOS
CERTIFIEDCOSMOSAPPROVED

Labelling
and communication

Standard:
Chapter 10

The following
requirements arecompulsory on labels:• ‘COSMOS ORGANIC’signature• mention of theCertification Body
• mention of the % oforganic and natural
origin content• indication of organic
ingredients in the INCIlist

The following
requirements arecompulsory on labels:• ‘COSMOS NATURAL’
signature• mention of theCertification Body
• mention of the % ofnatural origin content

The following requirements
are compulsory on labels:• ‘COSMOS CERTIFIED’signature• mention of theCertification Body
• mention of the % oforganic content• no claim to an organic
certification allowed• the ‘COSMOSAPPROVED’ signature
can be used

Labelling
guide:
Chapter 4 to
8

Ingredients

Standard:
Chapter 5, 6,
7.4 andAppendix I
to V, VIII

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• precautionary principles: GMOs and irradiation are forbidden• sustainability: specific criteria on palm oil, palm kernel oil and derivatives; requirements to be of organic
origin or from sustainable sources (CSPO) (not required for complex mixtures, such as perfumes andelements of perfumes or ingredients that are extracted using petrochemical solvents)• all ingredients must be validated according to their category and process (Water, Minerals, PPAI, CPAI,
other ingredients)

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Main criteria

Referenceschemedocuments

Formulations

TECHNICAL GUIDECOSMOSORGANICCOSMOS
NATURALCOSMOS
CERTIFIEDCOSMOSAPPROVED

Standard:
Chapter 7,
Appendix V,
Appendix VI• minimum of 20% of organic content or atleast 10% for rinse-off product, nonemulsified aqueous products, and productswith at least 80% minerals or ingredients ofmineral origin• at least 95% of the PPAI must be organic
origin• the remaining PPAI must be organic if they
are listed in Appendix VI• the CPAI listed in Appendix VII must beorganic• maximum of 2% of petrochemical moieties(Appendix V)• no minimum oforganic content• maximum of
2% of
petrochemicalmoieties(Appendix V)• presence oforganic
ingredient• base formulas
without organic
ingredients• no organic
content

Packaging &Fabrics

Standard:
Chapter 8.3,
8.4,
Appendix IX• primary, secondary packaging and fabric components must be
validated and compliant• minimisation of direct and indirect environmental impacts ofpackaging and revision compulsory each 3 years• primarypackaging must
be validated andcompliant

N.A.

Manufacturing
and storage

Standard:
Chapter 8.1,
8.2
Standard:
Chapter 9• avoid any confusion or risk to the integrity of the products• prevent contamination of the ingredients and the products

N.A.

• an environmental management plan must be put in place• every cleaning/disinfection product used must be validated and compliant

N.A.

Environmental
Management

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COSMOS STANDARD

Evaluation process

Main criteria

Referenceschemedocuments

TECHNICAL GUIDECOSMOSORGANICCOSMOS
NATURALCOSMOS
CERTIFIEDCOSMOSAPPROVED

Application

Control Manual:
Chapter 8, 8.3.1• application form completed for every prospective client

Application
review

Control Manual:
Chapter 8• review of the application form to study the feasibility and the definition of the prospective client• if possible, formalisation of the commitment

Evaluation

Standard:
Chapter 11.1,
11.2
Control Manual:
Chapter8, 8.3.2• documentary evaluation for each Product/Raw Material• initial on-site audit

Review &Certification
decision
Certification
documentation

Control Manual:
Chapter 8, 8.3.3• review of the evaluation results to take the appropriate certification decision

Control Manual:
Chapter 8, 8.3.4• if the certification decision is positive, certification document edition

Directory ofcertifiedproducts

Control Manual:
Chapter 8• the list of certified products/raw materials is available on the COSMOS website

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documentaryevaluation foreach Raw
Material

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Evaluation process

COSMOS STANDARDTECHNICAL GUIDE

Main criteria

Referenceschemedocuments

COSMOSORGANIC

SurveillanceControl Manual:
Chapter 8,
8.3.6• the evaluation process has to be renewed every year
• update of the application form if needed to declare anychange• annual surveillance audit

Changes
affectingcertification

Control Manual:
Chapter 8,8.3.7• information by the client of any change to evaluate the impact on the certification• information of the clients by COSMOS of any change of the requirements of the scheme and theconsequences

Termination,
reduction,suspension orwithdrawal ofcertification

Control Manual:
Chapter 8,
8.3.8• termination, reduction, suspension or withdrawal of certification can be decided following
client’s demand or a Certification Body’s decision

Complaints andappeals

Control Manual:
Chapter 8• everyone can make a complaint or an appeal• the complaint/appeal will be processed, and an answer/decision must be sent by the
Certification Body

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COSMOS
NATURALCOSMOS
CERTIFIEDCOSMOSAPPROVED• the evaluation process has tobe renewed every year
• update of the application form
if needed to declare anychange• re-assessment of raw
materials at least every 3
years (or as soon as any
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COSMOS STANDARDTECHNICAL GUIDESECTION 2: GUIDANCE ON INTERPRETING TECHNICAL POINTS AND
CRITERIA

1.

INTRODUCTION

No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

2.

REGULATIONS

No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

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3.

TECHNICAL GUIDESCOPE

Table 1: in which case should I apply for certification?
•
•
•
•
•

brand owner: the company owner of a brand that is made by a subcontractor according to
the specifications required. Brand owner can be manufacturer as welldistributor: a company who supplies products to sell for consumers. The products soldshow the name of the distributor and/or brand ownerservice provider: the company that only provides services (eg. packing, filling, changing
the bulk, storage) that may include manufacturing steps
manufacturer: the company that makes products. Manufacturer can be brand owner or
sub-contractor
sub-contractor: the company subcontracted for manufacturing activities can purchase raw
materials or packaging and sells products to the brand owner
Category ofoperator/clientDistributor/
Brand owner

Manufacturer/
sub-contractor

Required toapply forcertification

You are a brandowner and thecompany incharge of therelease tomarketYou are thecompany incharge of therelease tomarket of the
products you
manufacture

Not required to apply for certification▪ you are just a distributor and sell other brands’
products, but you are not in charge of the releaseto market▪ you are the brand owner but not the company incharge of the release to market. This company
applies for COSMOS certification and manages thecomplete process (production, sale andcommunication related to certified products)▪ your products are already certified by a COSMOS
authorised Certification Body
▪ you manufacture products on behalf of a brandowner who has already applied for COSMOS
certification▪ as a sub-contractor your products have alreadybeen certified by a COSMOS authorised Certification
Body

Note — in both cases the evaluation of this activity
must be included
Service providers do not have an obligation to be in contract with a
COSMOS authorised Certification Body.
ServiceproviderActivities of service providers must be audited to check conformity.
Exemption accepted if no intervention occurs on the product (storage thenre-dispatch of pallets for example).
Based on COSMOS authorised Certification Body risk assessment, there
could be regular audits on service provider site as well.

Independent of the obligations in the table, voluntary application for certification is possible.
In any doubt, it is possible to contact the Certification Body to conduct a risk assessment of
the commercial set-up in order to decide who should apply for certification.

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4.

TECHNICAL GUIDEDEFINITIONS‘Organic’
Ingredients certified according to these recognised standards are accepted by the COSMOSstandard. Nevertheless, the organic percentage according to the COSMOS-standard needs tobe recalculated (eg. quantity of water added, preservatives).

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COSMOS STANDARD

5.

TECHNICAL GUIDEGENERAL

If a pesticide or other contaminant is detected in an ingredient or product, then the authorised
Certification Body must be informed. The contamination must be investigated to try to establish
its cause and extent. Depending on the outcome of the investigation, the Certification Body
will decide whether the ingredient/ product keeps its certified status.

5.1

Precautionary principle

5.1.1 Nanomaterials
Particles with a coating (eg. TiO2 with coating) are allowed when the minimum particle size
without coating is above 100 nm.
TiO2 and ZnO used as UV-filters are acceptable if the following conditions are met:••

the raw material has to fulfil the opinions of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety(SCCS) published on, respectively, Titanium Dioxide (nano form) 1, and Zinc Oxide (nanoform)1in any case, TiO2 and ZnO as UV filters cannot be used in spray applications, such as
aerosol, pump dispenser (but excluding those without spray nozzle), as recommended in
SCCS opinion2

SCCS/1516/13 Revision of 22 April
https://health.ec.europa.eu/publications_en
1

2014

and

SCCS/1489/12

Revisionof11

December

2012

Opinion for clarification of the meaning of the term ’sprayable applications/products’ for the nano forms of Carbon
Black CI 77266, Titanium Oxide and Zinc Oxide
2

Silica used as coating agent of TiO2 and zinc oxide does not need a separate analysis.
Titanium dioxide used as coating agent of effect pigments does not need a separate analysis.
5.1.2 Genetically Modified Organisms (GMOs)
The COSMOS-standard does not allow the use of GM plants to obtain cosmetic raw materials
and ingredients. Therefore, the manufacturer must indicate the name of the plant and thecountry of origin of the vegetable source which was used to produce that particular cosmetic
raw material or ingredient in the raw material questionnaire.
Certification bodies will assess the GMO risk according to a common Geographical Risk Matrix
developed by the Soil Association. If necessary, they may require additional information fromthe manufacturer.
The Regulation that COSMOS is referring to when discussing Genetic Modification is Directive
2001/18/EC on the deliberate release into the environment of genetically modified organisms.
Article 2 gives definitions of GMO. Annex 1A summarises what techniques are included as
genetic modification.
5.1.3 Irradiation
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

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5.2

TECHNICAL GUIDE

Animal testingNo further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

5.3

Sustainability

5.3.1 Palm oil
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

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COSMOS STANDARDTECHNICAL GUIDE6.

ORIGIN AND PROCESSING OF INGREDIENTS

6.1

Ingredients categories

6.1.1 Water
Water quality is checked by the Certification Body when used as single ingredient in COSMOSCERTIFIED products or COSMOS CERTIFIED raw materials (eg. analysis or meets regulationthat is equivalent to COSMOS criteria).
There are no specific requirements when water is used in COSMOS APPROVED raw materials.
Chlorinated/dechlorinated water is allowed.

6.1.2 Minerals and ingredients of mineral origin
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

6.1.3 Physically processed agro-ingredients (PPAI)
Ingredients of animal origin
Milk, honey, beeswax etc. are ingredients of animal origin that are allowed (as long as theprocesses comply with Appendix I, and in the case of CPAI Appendix II, and other relevant
criteria of the Standard).
Other ingredients of animal origin will be considered after submission of additional documents.
Bee venom is prohibited.
Snail slime is prohibited when produced using salt and electricity but is otherwise permitted if
the details are checked and approved by the Certification Body.
Starfish extract as an ingredient of animal origin is prohibited.

Ingredients of plant origin
Mushrooms shall be counted as 100% PPAI unless, if possible, they have gone through apermitted chemical process, then they would be counted as CPAI.

Primary raw material
One example of primary raw materials that are harvested/collected by threatened species listed
in the IUCN red list is the use of monkeys in the collection and harvest of coconuts in someregions.

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6.1.4 Chemically processed agro-ingredients (CPAI)
Atom economy – Reaction mass efficiency
If several products are obtained (ie. the oil is saponified into glycerol and fatty acid) and all
products are used at the end of the manufacturing process, the weight of each of the products
must be considered for the calculation, even if only one item is submitted as the raw material.
Stem cells
Stem cells, used as active ingredients only, are allowed as long as the culture media is also
compliant with the standard. Substrates, culture mediums must be from natural or
microbiological origin. The use of inputs (eg. hormones, growth factors or similar components)
at low levels (ppm scale) is permitted in stem cell culture mediums. These inputs have to be
metabolised/removed and not detectable in the final product. A specific statement from the
supplier must be provided.
Ingredients from biotechnology
The culture medium must be in conformity with the COSMOS-standard. Therefore, each
ingredient in the medium must be from mineral, vegetable, microbial, animal or marine origin(meeting the criteria of the Standard) and, where appropriate, must be guaranteed non-GMO
origin.
Biotechnological processes are allowed as far as no genetically modified bacteria, fungi, yeast,
etc. are used.
If enzymes derived from GMOs are used to produce the cosmetic ingredient, the manufacturer
must prove they comply with the following conditions:
•
•
•
•
•
•

enzymes from GMOs are purified before use
the GMOs must be used in a closed vessel
the GMOs are deactivated after the process
risk assessment of impact of GMO release into the environment is maderisk plan to deal with accidental release of GMOs into the environment is established
PCR (-) or any other method must be provided to prove that no DNA of the GMO is present
in the final raw material

Defoamers and other auxiliaries can be used in biotechnology (as long as there are removed
in final raw material).
Non-persistent, bio-accumulative and toxic products
Substances, known to be bio-accumulative and not biodegradable are prohibited. These include
substances that do not pass OECD 301; => TEGEWA classification III = high waste water
impact.
6.1.5 Other ingredients
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

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6.2

TECHNICAL GUIDE

Calculation rules for organic percentages

6.2.1 Water
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.
6.2.2 Minerals and ingredients of mineral origin
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.
6.2.3 Physically processed agro-ingredients (PPAI)
Cases of dehydrated aloe vera powder in products to reconstitute:••in cases where organic dehydrated aloe vera is mixed with other powders, when water isadded to this mix of powders to reconstitute the final product, the organic percentage ofhydrated organic aloe vera powder is not taken into account for the calculation of theorganic percentage of the reconstituted formulain cases where end users are being asked to first reconstitute (hydrate) the organic aloevera before adding the rest of the powders, the organic contribution of the reconstitutedorganic aloe vera is taken into account

Alcohol used as a single ingredient
When validating alcohol as a raw material (from the cosmetic manufacturer) the actual
percentage of alcohol is counted as the CPAI % (and CPAI ORG % if the alcohol is organic). So
the dilution and purification is taken into account and the organic alcohol content could bevarious percentages. Note — if organic, % CPAI = % ORG CPAI.
The calculation of CPAI is made by weight. If no water (or other ingredient) is added during
the manufacturing process of an organic alcohol, the alcohol content is counted as 100%organic (100% CPAI / 100% ORG CPAI).

Alcohol used in an extract
Organic alcohol (even if completely removed) must be used in organic extracts. If non-organic
alcohol is used during the process, the ingredient cannot have an organic contribution.
Alcohol and extracts have to respect Appendix VI and VII for COSMOS ORGANIC certification.
As it is often difficult to obtain information about dilution and purification etc., in organic alcohol
for extracts (already certified to organic farming) the alcohol content is counted as 100%organic (100% CPAI / 100% ORG CPAI).

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Aqueous extract (including hydrolates, distillated plant)
Standard:
Ratio = [organic fresh plant / (final extract - solvents)]
If the ratio is greater than 1, then it is counted as 1.
% organic = {[ratio X (extract - solvents) / extract] + [organic
solvents / extract]} X 100
Example 1:
Ratio: 80 / (100 - 60); Ratio >1, counted as 1

% Organic = {[1 X (100 - 60) / 100] + [40 / 100]} X 100 = 80%

Example 2:
Used:
Organic dried flowers
Water
Citric Acid
Sodium benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Total Extract obtained= 2.5 Kg → equivalent to 11.25 Kg of organic fresh plant= 95.7 Kg= 1.5 Kg (CPAI)= 0.2 Kg (NNI)= 0.1 Kg (NNI)= 100 Kg

% ORG PPAI= (organic fresh plant/ extract) X 100 = 11.25%% NNI = 0.3%
% CPAI = 1.5%
% ORG = 11.25%% Natural origin = 100 - NNI = 99.7%

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COSMOS STANDARDTECHNICAL GUIDEDistillated plant
Used:
Fresh plant
Preservative
Total distillated water obtained= 90 Kg (PPAI)= 1.1 Kg (NNI)= 90 Kg

Ratio = [organic fresh plant / (final extract - solvents)] = 90/90 = 1% organic = {[ratio X (extract - solvents) / extract] + [organic solvents / extract]} X 100% organic = {[1 X (90 - 0) / 90] + [0 / 90]} X 100 = 100%
Considering the % of preservative:
Mass of preservatives/mass final extract = 1.1/90 = 1.2%
PPAI = Org PPAI = 100-1.2 = 98.8%
The distillated plant will be:% PPAI = 98.8%% ORG PPAI = 98.8%% NNI = 1.2%

Non aqueous extracts (Oleolita/Macerate)
For non-water-based extracts, the organic percentage is calculated as follows:% organic = (organic plant* + organic starting solvents) / (plant* + all starting solvents)
X 100*fresh or dried plant

Example 1:
Used: 45 Kg organic fresh plant and 55 Kg organic oil% Organic = (45 + 55) / (45 + 55) x 100% PPAI (oil and plant) = 100%
% ORG PPAI (oil and plant) = 100%
% NNI = 0%
% CPAI = 0%
% CPAI ORG = 0%
% ORG = % ORG CPAI + % ORG PPAI = 100%

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Example 2:
If the plant is not available in organic form and not listed in Appendix VI, it can be permitted
in COSMOS Organic products. As well as this, the overall product PPAI percentage minimums
need to be met.
Used: 45 Kg non-organic fresh plant and 55 Kg organic oil% Organic = 55/ (45 + 55) X 100% PPAI (plant and oil) = 100%
% ORG PPAI (oil) = 55%% NNI = 0%
% CPAI = 0%
% CPAI ORG = 0%
% ORG = % ORG CPAI + % ORG PPAI = 55%

Example 3:
If the oil solvent is not in organic form and not listed in Appendix VI, it can be permitted in
COSMOS Organic products. As well as this, the overall product PPAI percentage minimums
need to be met.
Used: 45 Kg organic fresh plant and 55 Kg non-organic oil% Organic = 45/ (45 + 55) X 100% PPAI (plant and oil) = 100%
% ORG PPAI (from plant) = 45%% NNI = 0%
% CPAI = 0%
% CPAI ORG = 0%
% ORG = % ORG CPAI + % ORG PPAI = 45%

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COSMOS STANDARDTECHNICAL GUIDE

Example 4:’Complex mixture’ (three or more components, see Technical Guide Appendix VI and VII) in
COSMOS ORGANIC products.
Note — a ‘Complex mixture’ included in a COSMOS ORGANIC product must have all thecomponents from organic agriculture if all the components are listed in Appendices VI/VII. If‘complex mixture’ contains at least one component not listed in the Appendices VI/VII, thennone of the components have to be from organic agriculture.
Mixture of organic plant and two solvents (solvent A: organic; solvent B: non-organic).
Used: 40 Kg organic fresh plant and 40 Kg organic oil (solvent A) and 20 Kg non-organic oil(solvent B)% Organic = (40 + 40) / (40 + 40 + 20) X 100% PPAI (plant and oils) = 100%
% ORG PPAI (from plant and one of two oils) = 80%% NNI = 0%
% CPAI = 0%
% CPAI ORG = 0%
% ORG = % ORG CPAI + % ORG PPAI = 80%

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6.2.4 Chemically processed agro-ingredients (CPAI)
General caseStandard:% organic = [(all organic starting primary raw materials - organic starting primary raw
materials in excess) / (all starting primary raw materials – all starting primary raw materials
in excess)] X 100
Example:% Organic = [(75 - 8) / (75 + 3 - 8)] X 100 = 95.7%

Specific case

If the final CPAI obtained contains several different molecules, the organic % of each moleculecan be different.
The main CPAI calculation can be used if the final product is a single ingredient OR if theresulting mixture is not separated.
If the result produces more than one material, specific calculations are made based on themolecules obtained (considering the molecular organisation, see below).

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Hydrolysis example

3x

Example:% organic Glycerin = organic part / total = (Mw Glycerin – Mw 3 hydrogen) / Mw Glycerin= (92 - 3) / 92
= 96.7%% organic Fatty Acid (FA) = organic part / total = (Mw FA – Mw OH) / Mw FA= (350 - 17) / 350= 95.1 %Version 4.1 — 1st March 2024

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Hydroglyceric extracts
1)

Total organic percentage of the extract:•

first step:

Ratio = [organic fresh plant / (extract - solvents)
If the ratio is greater than 1, then it is counted as 1.
•

second step:% organic = {[ratio X (extract - solvents) / extract] + [organic solvents / extract]} X 100

2)% ORG CPAI:

Glycerin in formula X organic index of the glycerin (0.967)
The total percentage of organic in an hydroglyceric extract is the sum of CPAI ORG% and PPAIORG %Example:Used:
Organic plant seed extract(organic fresh plant)
Organic glycerin
Water
Total extract obtained

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= 0.25 Kg= 0.7 Kg (100% CPAI and 96.7% CPAI ORG)
= 0.75 Kg= 1Kg including: Potassium Sorbate = 0.5% (NNI) andSodium Benzoate = 0.5% (NNI)

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Hydroalcoholic extracts
1)

Total organic percentage of the extract:•

first step:

Ratio = [organic fresh plant / (extract - solvents)
If the ratio is greater than 1, then it is counted as 1.
•

second step:% organic = {[ratio X (extract - solvents) / extract] + [organic solvents / extract]} X 100
2)% ORG CPAI:% ORG alcohol – % denaturing agent
NB: the percentage of denaturing agent is counted as non-natural ingredient

Example:Used:
Organic fresh plant= 80 Kg

Water= 50 Kg

Total extract obtained= 100 Kg with denaturated organic Alcohol = 60% (including
denaturating agent at 1.2%: 58.8% CPAI + 1.2% NNI)

Ratio = 80 / (100- 60) = 2 --> ratio = 1% ORGANIC = {[1 X (100-60) / 100] + [58.8/100]} X 100 = % PPAI ORG + % CPAI ORG =98.8%% PPAI = 100 – % CPAI – % NNI = 40%% PPAI ORG = 40%% CPAI = 58.8%% CPAI ORG = 58.8%% NNI = 1.2%

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Calculation of petrochemical moieties (PeMo)
Example of a reference of cocoamidopropyl betaine at 30% in water:
Molecular weight of the whole molecule = 342 g/mol
Molecular weight of the petrochemical part = 159 g/mol

1)% of petrochemical moiety of the molecule = 159/342 X 100 = 46.4%

2)% of petrochemical moiety of the reference = 0.3 X 0.464 X 100 = 13.9%➔

The reference would be considered 16.1% CPAI and 13.9% petrochemical moiety.

Organic CPAI calculation of fermented extract
100g of organic rice + y g of water + z g of yeast + 10g of solvent => 90g of fermented extract% Organic CPAI = Ratio x (extract – solvent)/extract
Ratio= ORGANIC RICE /(EXTRACT - SOLVENTS)= 100/(90-10)= 1.25

Ratio is > 1 so is considered as 1.
% Organic CPAI= (extract – solvent)/extract= (90-10)/90= 88.9%

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7.

TECHNICAL GUIDECOMPOSITION RULES

GENERAL RULE
When there is a range given for raw materials concentrations, the following concentration
values will be taken into account for the calculations of organic, natural and non-natural
percentages:•
the minimum value of organic and natural = the less favourable value•
the maximum value of non-natural•
the maximum value for non-organic PPAI (the less favourable because of PPAI ORG / PPAI)PARTICULAR CASEof glycerin and the impact of this rule on the calculation for glycerin:•
if organic glycerin is COSMOS Certified as a single ingredient, Certification Bodies
recalculate the organic percentage and ensure that the revised organic content is updated
in the COSMOS-standard database•
if COSMOS Approved glycerin is used as single ingredient, Certification Bodies ensure thatthe percentage of non-organic CPAI is updated in the COSMOS-standard database

7.1

Cosmetic products under organic certification

7.1.1 Ingredients
For soaps
As a reminder, the term CPAI soap here in calculation relates to the part of CPAI derived justfrom the saponification.
The soap manufacturer may provide the remaining percentage of water in the soap.
The Certification Body will consider that the remaining water cannot be less than 5% of thetotal soap weight.
Ingredients in the INCI list can be listed in two different ways:••

INCI before saponification (eg. the oils and sodium hydroxide)
INCI after saponification (eg. sodium cocoate)

Example 1: soap made with saponification (100 Kg)
This calculation applies to liquid and solid soap.
Olive oil (org)
Stearic acid (not part of the saponification process)
Water
Citric acid
Diluted Caustic soda (50% active)
Essential oil
Mass of finale soap (after drying)

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50%
10%
5%
1%
32%
2%
91%

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2 steps have to be considered:••calculation of the grade (COSMOS ORGANIC / COSMOS NATURAL), andfinal organic % (to be added on the label for COSMOS ORGANIC products)

Step 1: calculation of grade (COSMOS NATURAL / COSMOS ORGANIC) for the total product(7.1.1)7.1.1: “When making soaps from raw materials into finished product (use of plant oils), nochange of the criterion: organic PPAI / all PPAI > 95%”
Here in the example:
organic PPAI / all PPAI = (50)/ (50 + 2) = 96% > 95 % ==> COSMOS ORGANIC grade

Step 2: calculation of organic percentage of the total product (7.1.2, based on 6.2.4 rules)
7.1.2: as reported in 7.1.2 of the COSMOS-standard for soap (rinse-off products), it is required
to reach at least 10% org in the total product.
6.2.4: “CPAI % organic = [(all organic starting primary raw materials – organic starting primary
raw materials in excess) / (all starting primary raw materials – all starting primary raw
materials in excess)] x 100”
Organic CPAI % = (organic olive oil – 0) / (all ingredients – water evaporated)
Excess is water lost during the drying step.
Organic CPAI % = (50 – 0) / (100 - 9) = 50/91 = 54.9% organic
Organic % of the final product = % of organic ingredients introduced of the dried soap weight
There will always be remaining water in soap.
In the case of organic essential oil used, the final organic content will be:
Total organic % = (50+2 – 0) / (100 - 9) = 52/91 = 57.1% organic

Example 2: Soap (100 Kg) made with soap noodles
Organic Essential Oil
Soap noodles
Composition of soap noodles:
Olive oil (org)
Stearic acid (not part of the saponification process)
Water
Citric acid
Diluted Caustic soda (50% active)

2%
98%
52%
10%
5%
1%
32%

If COSMOS certified noodles are used, please refer to the percentages declared by the suppliers
and shown on COSMOS database. If soap noodles of your own manufacturing are used, pleaseconsider the previous example.

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CPAI: 52+10+1 = 63%
Organic CPAI soap: 52/52 = 100%
Organic CPAI: 52/ (100+0) = 52%

Step 1: Calculation of grade (COSMOS NATURAL / COSMOS ORGANIC) for the total product(7.1.1)
As reported in 7.1.2 of COSMOS-standard for soap (rinse-off products), it is required to reachat least 10% ORG in the total product.
(organic PPAI + organic CPAI soap) / (all PPAI + CPAI soap) > 95% using the following
equations:
Grade for final product: (2+100)/ (2+100) = 100% => COSMOS ORGANIC
Note — CPAI Soap will always be 100%In the case of non-organic essential oil used, the final organic content will be:
Grade for final product: (100)/ (2+100) = 98% => COSMOS ORGANIC

Step 2: Calculation of organic percentage of the total product (7.1.2, based on 6.2.4 rules)
7.1.2: “By exception, for rinse-off products, non-emulsified aqueous products, and productswith at least 80% minerals or ingredients of mineral origin, at least 10% of the total productmust be organic”
Total organic % = organic PPAI + organic CPAI
= 2 + [organic CPAI (noodle) x noodle’s ratio in the final soap]= 2 + [(52 x 98)/100]= 2 + 50.9
= 52.9%In the case of non-organic essential oil used, the final organic content will be 50.9 %.

7.1.2 Total productThere are two different cases for reconstituted products under natural and organic certification:1)

solid powders, with information from the cosmetic producer to mix the solid powder witha defined amount of water, in a bottle. Here the certification decision is made on thereconstituted product (adding the quantity of water clearly defined on the product label).
Therefore, the reconstituted product must comply with the COSMOS-standard rules.

2)

solid bars (soap, syndets, powders), that are used with water, but the quantity of water
to use is difficult to define. This case is similar to the use of a classic shampoo/ showergel. Here the certification decision is made on the dry product. Therefore, the dry product(before water is added) must comply with the existing COSMOS-standard rules.

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7.2

TECHNICAL GUIDE

Cosmetic products under natural certification

There are two different cases for reconstituted products under natural and organic certification:1)

solid powders, with information from the cosmetic producer to mix the solid powder witha defined amount of water, in a bottle. Here the certification decision is made on thereconstituted product (adding the quantity of water clearly defined on the product label).
Therefore, the reconstituted product must comply with the COSMOS-standard rules2)

solid bars (soap, syndets, powders), that are used with water, but the quantity of water
to use is difficult to define. This case is similar to the use of a classic shampoo/ showergel. Here the certification decision is made on the dry product. Therefore, the dry product(before water is added) must comply with the existing COSMOS-standard rules

7.3

Calculation rules for natural origin percentage

No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

7.4

Palm oil, palm kernel oil and derivatives

Ingredients from Standard 7.4 do not have to be from palm oil as long as they comply with
the COSMOS-standard.
Example: glycerine from 100% rapeseed oil is acceptable.
Please refer to the relevant section on Shortage on page 41 related to Appendix VI & VII.

7.5

Raw materials with organic content under certification

No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

7.6

Raw materials without organic content under approval

No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

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8.

TECHNICAL GUIDESTORAGE, MANUFACTURING AND PACKAGING

A company that fills samples in sachets for ‘free giveaway’ (eg. at trade shows) does not haveto be audited or certified by a COSMOS authorised Certification Body, provided that the batchhas been manufactured by a company that is certified.
Pencils that can be sharpened are to be considered as primary packaging. Therefore, criteria
for packaging apply.

8.1

Storage

No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

8.2

Manufacturing

No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

8.3

Packaging

Each component of the finished product packaging must be compliant with the Standard: tubes,
bottles, jars, caps, capsules, sachets, boxes, etc.
The following items and examples of technical parts do not have to be checked:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•

accessories sold with a product such as decorative cosmetic applicator, spatula, spoon, or
attached to a product such as ribbon or rope
all accessories in decorative cosmetic products such as brush, applicator, flock, rob…
all the components working as joints
all the components working as sealers
coatings on card/paper
droppers and their specific caps
elements added inside the secondary packaging such as plastic moulds
external part of a lipstick/ lip balm as long as available compliant alternatives do not exist
widelygaskets
internal flexible pouch
labels material, ink, glue
linerslubricant in the pump, glue in pencils as long as there is no contamination of the cosmetic
formula, treatments and lacks
manufacturing auxiliaries for the production of packaging materials (eg. tallow)
mechanism for lipsticks: internal part used to turn / push the productmultilayers
packaging for free samples, packaging for bulk products (B to B), packaging for COSMOSAPPROVED raw materials
protection sleeves; however, it is allowed if around the closure system only. Full sleeve is
not allowed. Exceptions could be granted for small products (eg. decorative cosmetics)
pumps and specific associated caps (bottles have to be checked)
secondary packaging only used for special event (gift boxes/ end of stocks, etc)

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8.3.1 Examples of indicators
The below table shows possible indicators that can be provided to demonstrate how the criteria
on packaging is being complied with.
The selected indicators (from below examples and/or beyond) are checked at documentary
validation stage and then during the audit.
EXAMPLE OF CASES

Indicators

Examples of indicators

Case Nr 1

Case Nr 2

Case Nr 3

Jar

Glass
BottleAluminium
bottle1- REDUCE
Appropriate volume or weight
Case: 10ml bottle in a box for 30ml bottle withratio between packaging (primary cardboard inside to protect the bottle
and secondary) and product
Solutions for change:• use bigger bottle in order to reduce ratio
packaging/ product• use thinner bottle/cap to reduce again ratio
packaging/product• use a 30ml bottle to avoid cardboard inside• use a 10ml box to avoid cardboard inside• no box at all
No secondary packaging
Sale in bulk productNo single use products such as
samples
2- REUSE
Refillable/ reusable packagaing
Returnable glass and othermaterials
Second life packaging organisedby the operator
3- RENEWABLE
Renewable materials
Biodegradable or compostable
packaging material
Environmental certification for
paper/card
Use natural based inks andadhesives on labels
4- RECYCLE
Use minimum 20% recycledcontent in the primary packaging✓✓

eg. Refill bag version of finished product✓✓✓i.e. Primary packaging, secondary packaging,shipping materials…
eg. From vegetable fats/oils, corn starch,
woodchips, foodwaste, cellulose, lactic acid.

eg. FSC/PEFC
eg. Sunflower oil based ink

e.g. Certification Recycled Claim Standard(RCS)/ Global Recycled Standard (GRS)

Use monomaterials for primary
packagingUse packaging materials (if not
eg. Glass bottle with plastic cap that can bemonomaterials) that can beseparated before put in for recycling
separated as per companies' local
recycling instructions
Organise empty packaging
recollection/deposit by company
itself or external third party
Use recyclable label materials

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✓

✓

✓

✓

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8.3.2
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.
8.3.3
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.
8.3.4
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.
8.3.5
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.
8.3.6
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

8.4

Fabrics

Case of hydrogel masks:••

the hydrogel support for a face mask is not to be considered as fabric and therefore thecriteria for fabrics do not apply. As a consequence, the hydrogel support does not have to
be 100% organic for COSMOS ORGANIC finished products
the combination [hydrogel support+lotion] is to be checked as one formula and needs tocomply with the COSMOS-standard.

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9.

ENVIRONMENTAL MANAGEMENT

9.1

Environmental management plan

TECHNICAL GUIDE

9.1.1
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

9.1.2
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

9.2

Cleaning and Hygiene

Cleaning products not involved in the processes (toilets, floors, conventional products, etc.)
are not concerned.
Plant based cleaning products certified according to one of the following organic programmes
can be used: Ecocert, Ecogarantie, ICEA, Nature & Progress, Soil Association, United States
National Organic Program (NOP), or Australian Organic Standards (AOS).
Products endorsed by environmental labels including Nordic Swan or Ecolabel may be used if
the natural origin of their active ingredients (eg. alcohol, moisturising ingredients), solventsand surfactants has been confirmed. Preservatives, defoaming agents and perfumes do notneed to be checked for natural origin.
Other standards for cleaning products can be submitted to the Technical Committee forassessment.
If national regulations force the use of specific cleaning products, requests for exemption canbe submitted to the Technical Committee.
9.2.1
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.
9.2.2
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.
9.2.3
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.
9.2.4
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

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10. LABELLING AND COMMUNICATION
10.1 General rules
A ‘pseudo’ logo can be understood as a logo that shows certification or quality although there
is no standard and no evaluation by a third party. Standard examples are logos created bycompanies for their own use and without third party control.
Organic logos are not allowed in conjunction with COSMOS natural products or approved
ingredients. For example, a COSMOS natural finished product should not bear a logo with theterm ‘bio’ or ‘organic’. Company names or brands are not considered as logos. If in doubt,
request a clarification from the Technical Committee.
10.3 of the Standard also provides limitation of the indication of organic ingredients in case ofnatural products. In the case of a product which is organic certified, additional pseudo ‘bio
logos’ might be acceptable, depending on the opinion of the Certification Body.

10.2 For products under organic certification
Under the Organic Foods and Farming Act (previously known as COPA-California Organic
Products Act), ‘salt’ means sodium chloride.

10.3 For products under natural certification
Under the Organic Foods and Farming Act (previously known as COPA-California Organic
Products Act), ‘salt’ means sodium chloride.

10.4 For raw materials with organic content
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

10.5 For raw materials with no organic content“Raw materials with no organic content that are approved must make no reference on thelabel or on relevant documents to the term certified or to organic.”
COSMOS has implemented this requirement to avoid confusion to manufacturers of COSMOSCERTIFIED products when the ingredients are selected for the formulations. COSMOSAPPROVED raw materials do not have any organic content and are not organic certified.
Thus, providers of non-organic raw materials are asked not to use the words certified (in any
language), organic or bio (in any language) on raw material names, on labels and on relevant
documents related to COSMOS approved raw materials (except in cases of company names).
In cases where ‘bio’ or ‘org’ is within a word it may be acceptable if it is clearly not misleading.
It is the Certification Body’s responsibility to assess such cases.

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Examples not allowed:
xxx BIO
BIO-xxx
BIO xxxORGANIC xxx
xxx ORGANICORGANIC-xxx

xxx ORG
ORG-xxx
ORG xxx

Examples of operator responsibilities for the use of COSMOS APPROVED label
There can be three entities to consider:
a.
b.
c.

the manufacturer of the COSMOS APPROVED ingredientthe intermediate distributor of the ingredient
the cosmetic manufacturer who wishes to use the ingredient in a COSMOS formula

Example 1 The distributor repacks the ingredient, therefore the ingredient is no longer
COSMOS APPROVED. The cosmetic manufacturer must ask the distributor to submit the raw
material questionnaire to their Certification Body for internal evaluation.
Example 2 The intermediate distributor puts its own label on the ingredient: no repacking,but the ingredient manufacturer’s label is removed. Therefore, the ingredient is no longer
COSMOS APPROVED. The cosmetic manufacturer must ask the distributor to submit the raw
material questionnaire to its Certification Body for approval.
Example 3 The intermediate distributor puts its own label on the ingredient: no repacking
and the ingredient manufacturer’s label is kept. Therefore, the ingredient is still COSMOSAPPROVED. The cosmetic manufacturer can be allowed to use this ingredient without requiring
the intermediate distributor to submit the raw material questionnaire.
In any case, the distributor cannot include the COSMOS APPROVED signature on its own label
unless it is in contract with a Certification Body and applies to have the ingredient listed on the
COSMOS raw materials database under its own name.
Other particular case: the ingredient manufacturer does not want to be on the COSMOS
database and does not use any marketing information related to COSMOS; there is no mentionof COSMOS on the ingredient label. Here, there is no need for the ingredient manufacturer tobe in contract with a Certification Body. This is the case of cosmetic manufacturers wanting touse some ingredient that do not claim to be COSMOS APPROVED, in their COSMOS formula.

10.6 Supporting literature
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

10.7 Organic in the name of a company or product range
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

10.8 Use of the signature, name or term related to this Standard
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

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11. CERTIFICATION AND APPROVAL
Process requirements applicable to authorised Certification Bodies in order to certify products
and organic raw materials or to approve non organic raw materials can be consulted in the
COSMOS-standard Control Manual Chapter §8, as from section §8.3.2. They can help
companies understand how they will be audited.

11.1 Certification
Documentary evaluation and preparation of on-site audits
For the certification scope (Scope 1), approval for all ingredients, formulas, labels andpackaging used in certified products or ingredients is required.
Assessment of each ingredient is made through a number of different documents including
technical data sheet, and a raw material questionnaire summarising all requested compliance
points, and/or organic certificates.
During the audit, any non-conformities will be identified (though additional ones may be
identified during the evaluation process). They are classified according to two categories:“minor” non-conformities
A minor non-conformity is one that does not alter the characteristics of the product to becertified, and/or does not conflict with the principles of the COSMOS-standard and its mostimportant requirements and is not considered to be misleading to consumers.
•“major” non-conformities
A major non-conformity is one that alters, or may later alter, the characteristics of the productto be certified, and/or conflicts with the principles of the COSMOS-standard and its mostimportant requirements and/or can be considered as misleading to consumers. Some major
non-conformities may lead to critical measures (see correction plan) and de-certification of the
product, or in extreme cases withdrawal of certification from the client.
•Correction plan
The correction plan lists non-conformities and classifies them according to their degrees ofseverity (‘major’ or ‘minor’). It also identifies, for each non-conformity, the consequence forthe certification, appropriate actions to be taken and any further conditions.
The consequence for the certification is defined according to the nature and severity of the
non-conformity as well as its frequency and scale and the risk of fraud.
Appropriate measures could be:••••continuation of certification under conditions
reduction of the scope of certificationsuspension of the certification
withdrawal of the certification

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11.2 Approval of raw materials
Raw material questionnaire
For all non-organic raw materials (Scope 2), each Certification Body will use a questionnaire
based on common questions defined by COSMOS for raw material approval. Please note that
not all Certification Bodies are accredited for Scope 2.
Non-organic raw materials available on the database
Compliantnon-organicrawmaterials
arestandard.org/en/databases/approved-raw-materials/.

availableonwww.cosmos-

Raw materials published on the COSMOS database are recognised and accepted by all
Certification Bodies.
The database is password protected and is only available to applicants and clients of authorised
Certification Bodies and to members of COSMOS member associations. Please contact yourauthorised Certification Body or association for the password.
Raw materials identified with an asterisk* relate to Appendix II (petrochemical solvents), or
halogenation processes in activating steps or Appendix V.2. (petrochemical solvents for
extraction of PPAI), Appendix V.3 (ingredients containing petrochemical moieties) or Appendix
V.4 (other agro-ingredients under derogation). The same INCI can be with or without thisidentification depending on the manufacturing process.
On periodical review of the raw material database these raw materials with an asterisk may beremoved, when raw materials which do not use these processes become available in sufficientamounts.
Re-assessment of non-organic raw materials needs to be made at least every three years (oras soon as any change) in order to confirm any change on process and origins of accepted raw
materials. This can be done through a declaration.
Ingredients changing of status
For several reasons (change in process, error, etc), ingredients may change status (become
non-compliant or remain compliant but with different percentages that may affect the final
ingredients/products percentages). These cases are considered by the Technical Committee
who could decide to allow a transition period, depending on the context, impacts and potential
alternative. Non-compliant ingredients will be removed from the database and cannot be usedin any new formula.

11.3 Certification Bodies
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

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12. IMPLEMENTATION OF THE STANDARD

12.1 Coming into force

The date indicated is the one on which the version 4.1 of the COSMOS-standard takes effectand is valid. For Version 4.1, this date coincides with the date of publication.

12.2 Application date

The date indicated is the one from which all the criteria of the COSMOS-standard version 4.1
must be applied for any new cosmetic product or raw material submitted for certification orapproval from that date. For Version 4.1, this date coincides with the date of publication. Referto section §12.3 for all specific transition measures.

12.3 Transitional measures
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

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COSMOS STANDARDTECHNICAL GUIDEAppendix I
At any step of the manufacturing process: preservation or treatment of primary plant materials
are not checked for non-organic raw materials such as ethanol, algae and beetroot.

Appendix II
BIOTECHNOLOGY PROCESSES (fermentation, stem cells culture, etc):
Ammonia/Ammonium salts and other Nitrogen sources are allowed. Sodium Selenite is allowed
as a Selenium source.

NEUTRALISATION (allowed to obtain Na, Ca, Mg and K salts):
Ammonia is allowed in the neutralisation process to form Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate andAmmonium Glycyrrhizate (and any other Ammonium salt – as long as the other criteria
including biodegradability and aquatic toxicity are fulfilled).

Use of petrochemical solvents: preservation or treatment of primary plant materials are notchecked for non-organic raw materials such as ethanol, algae and beetroot.

Appendix III
All caustic sodas and potashes (INCI: Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Hydroxide) are allowed.
The decision will be reviewed depending on any technical developments.

Appendix IV
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

Appendix V
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

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COSMOS STANDARDTECHNICAL GUIDEAppendix VI and VII
PHYSICALLY PROCESSED AGRO-INGREDIENTS THAT MUST BE ORGANIC(Appendix VI)
Ingredients that must be ORGANIC for COSMOS ORGANIC certification (which belong to thelists available in the Standard Appendices):•no mixture (one component)
ingredients must be used in organic quality according to Appendix(example: sunflower oil or wax)
single ingredients which are stabilised with additives or contain preservatives(example: sunflower oil, stabilised with tocopherol)VI•

non-complex/simple mixture (two components) — hydrolates with two plants are in thiscategory
ingredients must be used in organic quality according to Appendix VI(example: herbal extract/macerate with sunflower oil)
if one of the ingredients is added as a solvent to other active ingredients, to makethem available, the ingredient does not need to be used in organic quality(example: tocopherol dissolved in sunflower oil)•complex mixture (three and more components)
the criteria does not apply except when all ingredients of the mixture are listed inAppendices VI/VII

It is considered as a mixture or a blend only if it is a commercial reference and not a mixture
made by the cosmetic manufacturer itself.

Specific case of refined oil
A refined oil can have the same INCI name as a non-refined oil. Appendix VI is based on INCI
names, therefore, a refined oil with an INCI name listed in Appendix VI must comply with thecriteria.
Examples:••hybrid helianthus annus seed oil ► not listed in Appendix VI, therefore does not need tocomply with the criteria
helianthus annus seed oil ► listed in Appendix VI, therefore needs to comply with thecriteria

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COSMOS STANDARDTECHNICAL GUIDECHEMICALLY PROCESSED AGRO-INGREDIENTS THAT MUST BE MADE FROMORGANIC ORIGIN AGRO-INGREDIENTS (Appendix VII)
Ingredients that must be ORGANIC for COSMOS ORGANIC certification (which belong to thelists available in the Standard Appendices):•no mixture (one component)
this also applies to single ingredients which are stabilised with additives or containpreservatives(example: ethyl alcohol with denaturing agent)•

non-complex/simple mixture (two components) – Alcoholic extract are in this category
ingredients must be used in organic quality according to Appendix VI and VII(example: herbal extract)•complex mixture (three and more components)
the criteria does not apply except when all certifiable ingredients of the mixture arelisted in Appendixes VI/VII

Shortage of a certified (organic or CSPO) raw material
A shortage is the lack of availability of the required volume of compliant materials; a higher
price of an alternative compliant material does not constitute a shortage.
In the case of a shortage of a certified raw material listed in Appendix VI and VII, Certification
Bodies can grant exemptions according to the rules as laid down in the Control Manual andbelow.
The client needs to inform the Certification Body that none is available, why and, if known,
provide details of how long (eg. poor harvest for certain year). The Certification Body needs tocheck their records and with the other partners that none is available. The client then needs
to provide three written confirmations from suppliers that the certified material is not available.
Regarding the organic raw material, labels and promotional materials have to be changed
temporarily so that it is clear at point of sale that the material’s organic status has changed(for example by over-stickering of product labels, or a clear indication on the client’s website
for the product etc.). These indications must be verified by the Certification Body.
Provided all of the above has been followed permission can be granted for a certain period andchecked at each new raw material purchase.
Ensure records are kept by the clients to include monitoring practices and procedures, such as
periodic review of the availability, to ensure that the plan is effectively implemented.

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COSMOS STANDARDTECHNICAL GUIDEAppendix VIII
Toxicity and biodegradability data are not required for naturally occurring molecules obtainedby fermentation, biotechnology or bio-enzymatic reactions.
Follow this link for available data of compounds registered for REACH:
http://www.echa.europa.eu/web/guest/information-on-chemicals/registered-substances.
Due to the lack of biodegradability of PLA and other solid plastics, these raw materials are notallowed in COSMOS certified products. PLA is therefore excluded from the exemption for‘Polymers, only obtained by esterification of monomers, that meet the criteria for nonpersistent products as defined in 6.1.4’, listed in the Appendix VIII of the COSMOS-standard.

What to do if no data is available
If the required ecological data (biodegradation and aquatic toxicity) is not available in theliterature (ECHA database or other publication sources), the following alternative methods canbe used:•Analogy approach - Read Across:

Read Across data available on
biodegradability and aquatic toxicity,
Applicant provides validated experimental
data for:- an analogue to the compound
Statement
on ReadAcrossNo approval

without
data/
description- a defined chemical category in the REACH
register, which the compound fits in- a defined chemical category in the REACH
register, which allows for Read Across to thecategory the compound belongs to.

Approval

Applicant explains why the respective
analogues or chemical categories have beenchosen.
The Certification Body accepts Read Acrossdata if the explanation is conclusive and thetarget molecule is in close structural analogy
with the presented analogues/categories.

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COSMOS STANDARDTECHNICAL GUIDE

Structural analogy of molecules can be determined based on:•••

the functional groups present in a moleculethe chemical class the molecule belongs to
the carbon skeleton of the molecule; the most reactive functional group in the molecule
determines the chemical class membershipWith the same functional groups present, properties do not differ too much with slight changes
in the carbon skeleton (4 to 8 carbons).
For Read Across data, only really close analogues based on the above basic criteria will be
accepted.

ExampleMyristyl Myristate: REACH category: Fatty acids, C10-18 and C12-22-unsaturated, C14-18 andC16-18-unsaturated alkyl esters.

QSAR (Quantitative Structure-Activity Relationship):
Data coming from QSAR computational approach can be accepted under the following
conditions:••the results provided are derived from a validated model (link to Reach guidance)
the chemical falls under the applicability domain of the validated model

Both alternative methods have to be well documented to be accepted.

Appendix IX
No further interpretations or clarifications for this section of the Standard.

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