DATA FILE OF THE HIMALAYAN ASSOCIATION OF JAPANJapanese Notable Climbs and Explorations 2001 in Himalaya

Kinichi Yamamori

CHINA – TIBET, XINJIANG & SICHUAN
In the year 2001, 104 members of 25 parties attempted 12 peaks and five members of
two parties made a reconnaissance of unexplored mountain areas. It is noted that in thelast decade more than 35 percent of the expeditions from Japan to the greater range ofthe Himalaya have concentrated on the Chinese territory.
Qomolangma (8848m)-Tibet
Naoki Ishikawa (23), who joined an international commercial expedition, stood atop onMay 23 via the north ridge. He has renewed a record of the youngest summiter of thehighest mountains in the seven continents of the world.
Cho Oyu (8201m)-Tibet
In the fall 17 members of six parties visited the mountain and 14 members reached thesummit. On September 22 Eiko Hibi could stand atop at 59 years and 109 days old. She
was the second oldest woman to climb Cho Oyu. Atsushi Yamada (22) ascended
successfully on September 19. He is aiming at breaking Ishikawa’s record to haveclimbed the highest peaks of the seven continents. On October 8 a former F1 driver,Ukyo Katayama (38) climbed too.
Xixabangma (8008m)-Tibet
Satoshi Nara (50) and four other members followed the normal route. Takashi Masuda(41), and Kenji Nodaka (30) got to the top together with three HAP on October 13.
Naimona’Naimona’ny(7694m)-Tibet
ny(7694m)-Tibet
Masakazu Okuda (35) and Susumu Yamada (21) succeeded climbing together with one
HAP on September 25 via a route of the first ascent in 1985.
Khula Kangri Central (7418m) & East (7381m)-TibetA joint party of Tokai University of Japan and Tibet University of China made the firstascent of two unscaled central and eastern peaks of Khula Kangri massif in April toMay. Detail report is given elsewhere by the leader of Japanese part, Yoshitsugu Deriha.

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Yangra Kangri (7429m)-Tibet
In the autumn season eight members of The Himalayan Association of Japan (HAJ) ledby Kinichi Yamamori challenged but could not be successful. A detail report is given
elsewhere by Kinichi Yamamori.
Ningqin Kangsa (Nojinkangsang(Nojinkangsang 7206m)-Tibet
Six members of HAJ headed by Kunimitsu Sakai (61) visited. They established BC at
4800m of the western side on July 29 and set up three advance camps on the west ridge.
On August 15 Aumi Nozawai (36), Shinichi Miyagawa (38) and Masao Saito (30)succeeded in the second ascent via the west ridge. Tadakiyo Sakahara (56) came to theeastern side for the second straight year and set up BC. He went to the northern side
where he tried to open a new route, but although he made the first ascent of Gama I(6484m) en route, he had to give up further push to the main peak.
Yarlha Shampo (6635m)-Tibet
This mountain lies 80km southeast of Lhasa, latitude: 28°45’ and longitude: 91°50’.
Yoshiki Ito (43) and 17 other members of Yamagata Mountaineering Association visitedand attempted for the first time. However, due to bad weather (in particular thunderstorm), they were forced to retreat from the point of 6100m.
Nyaiqentanglha Range East-Tibet
In continuation of May to June, Tamotsu Nakamura (66), Tsuyoshi Nagai (69) andMakoto Kasugai (68) made preliminary reconnaissance of the veiled and least known
mountains from Basong Lake to Lhari (Chali) in the region at latitude 30°00’ to 30°
40’ and longitude 93°00’ to 94°15’ in East Tibet. A detail report is given elsewhere byTamotsu Nakamura.
Kangri Garpo Range East-Tibet
Two members Sugiyama (65) and Honjo (59) of Silver Turtle group visited Lhagu
Gracier and Ata Glacier from October to November. They made an extensive
reconnaissance having crossed Ata Kang La down to Ata Glacier.
Selik Gulam Muztag (6691m)(6691m)-Xinjiang
Xinjiang
Yoshihiko Miyamoto (56), Hiroshi Onishi (41), Hideki Shimooka (39) and Hiroki Tanaka(25) of Nagano Prefecture again challenged the peak formerly named Kashitashi (localpeople call it as Selik Gulam Muztag) in West Kun Lun not far from Qong Muztag

2(6962m). It is located SSE of Yutian. They established BC at 3800m on July 31 and setup two advance camps en route to the north ridge. They further put up two camps on
the north ridge and all the four members succeeded in the first ascent. A summary
report is given elsewhere by Hiroshi Onishi.
Muztagh Ata (7546m)(7546m)-Xinjiang
Xinjiang
18 members of six parties visited. Among them, eight members including four women,Junko Tabei (61), Tamae Watanabe (62), Isomi Okanda (57) and Miyuki Aikawa (40)reached the top.
Rock Peak of Jarjinjabo (5382m)-Sichuan
Four climbers of RCC II of Tokyo led by Naoki Ohuchi (56) visited Jarjinjabo mountainmassif in the summer. They made the first ascent of granite rock tower (5382m)
between July 27 and 31. A summary report is given elsewhere by Naoki Ohuchi.

NEPAL91 members of 19 parties visited 15 peaks.
Api (7132m)
Six members of Barbarian Club headed by Ayumi Nozawai (36) visited the northernside and traced the normal route of the first ascent in 1960. BC was established to Api
Khola of 4000m and three advance camps were set up. On October 6 the leader andHirotaka Imamura (42) reached the summit and on the 8th Hiroshi Iwazaki (41),
Tomoyuki Furuya (29) and Fumihiro Ogiwara (23) reached the summit successfully.
Lhotse (8516m)-South Face
Seven members of JAC Tokai Section, The Japanese Alpine Club led by Osamu Tanabe(40) challenged the first winter ascent of the formidable South Face in December. The
result was untoward, however, as the worst conditions of ferociously strong winds anddanger of frequent falling rocks had them make up their mind to give up further push
and retreat from a point at 7600m. Osamu Tanabe describes a summary report
elsewhere.
Dhaulagiri (8167m)
15 members of three parties challenged; four climbers reached the summit via northeast3

ridge. Hideji Nazuka (46) of Gunma Prefecture reached the summit on October 11.
Nazuka has accomplished the remarkable ascents of nine 8000m giant peaks thatinclude the winter first ascent of Southwest Face of Everest, the first ascent ofNorthwest Face of K2 and the ascent of Northeast Ridge of Kanchenjunga.
On October 2 another party’s Masami Yazaki (48) and Ms. Sae Takahashi and on the12th Ryoichi Shitate (29) also succeeded via northeast ridge.
Accident:
Ryushi Hoshino (33), Yukihiko Shinagawa (33) and Masashi Fukumoto (27)unfortunately did not return. They set up BC at 4800m on September 25 to climb east
face in alpine style. After having ascended northeast ridge to 7350m for acclimatization,
they left C1 (5876m) on northeast col for attacking the east face at 5:00am on October
12 carrying four days’ provisions. At about 9:30am on the 13th, members of the otherparty witnessed them to be near about 6000m and at 10:00am on the 14th another party
also had a glimpse from C1 of the three climbers on the snow face at 6400 – 6500m.
That was the last, and thereafter they were missing. Hoshino has been hoped to play anactive part among potential climbers of the younger generation in Japan. He had
climbed Southwest Face of Everest, Cho Oyu, GI, GII, Xixabangma and Ultar II.
Manaslu (8163m)
Japan Workers’ Alpine Federation (JWAF) sent six members led by Kazuyoshi Kondo toclimb the normal route from the eastern side. On October 9 Hidetoshi Kurahashi (41),Akira Saito (40), Ms. Yumiko Okubo (32) and three HAP reached the top.
Accident:
Isao Kurihara (42) ascended to C3 at 7500m for final assault, but he decided to retreaton the 12th. On the way of descending down he became unable to move due to heavy
frost-bite and exhaustion and forced to make bivouac together with two other members
being dressed just they were. Kurihara died near 7000m on October 14. He had noexperience in the high mountains.
Nemjung (7139m)
This mountain was called as Himlung Himal. four elderly members of 60s years old
including Masato Chuma of Kyushu who had challenged in winter of 1963 and 1984 –85 again attempted the winter climb in 2001 – 2002, but it was unsuccessful.

4Unnamed Peak in Mustang (6270)
Tamotsu Ohnishi and his colleagues in Osaka scaled the unnamed peak (6270) andmade an extensive survey of unidentified area in the vicinity. Ohnishi’s detail report is
attached as the supplementary papers.
Funchi (7036m) in Khumbu Himal
A party of Takatsugu Shiro and other five members in Osaka challenged the unclimbed
peak, Funchi 7036m but they gave up the ascent at 6700m.
Pisang (6091m)
Yoshimitsu Nanba (51) succeeded in reaching the top, but he died at BC near 5800m
perhaps due to high altitude sickness.
Ama Dablam (6856m)
Four members of Snow Leopard Club led by Susumu Nakamura (51) challenged awinter ascent via southwest ridge in alpine style climbing. They set up BC on November
28 and commenced an assault on December 1. They attempted twice a rush to thesummit from C1 at 5700m. In the second attack they bivouacked near Red Tower peak
and tried the last push, but they retreated from a point at 6350m.

PAKISTAN
57 members of 12 parties visited nine peaks.
Nanga Parbat (8126m)
Hirotaka Takeuchi (27) who joined an international commercial expedition reached thesummit on June 30 via normal route from western side.
Gasherbrum I (8068m)
Six members of Meiji University led by Kazuhiro Takahashi (27) visited with anobjective to accomplish climbing of two peaks GI and GII continuously in succession. On
August 13 all the members of the leader, Atsushi Hayakawa (27), Yoshinobu Kato (25),
Shoichi Mori (26), Kazuaki Amano (24) and Hironori Taniyama (22) reached the summit
via normal route.
Gasherbrum II (8035m)

5All the members of Meiji University also ascended successfully on July 10 via normalroute. In the same period Kazunari Ohuchi (59) and 12 other members Tochigi
Prefecture entered the mountain. On July 9 Hodaka Sasaki (29), Toshimi Sakuma (47),Seiichi Kitamura (34), on the 10th Kazunari Ohuchi, Akira Kumegawa (49) and on the
11th Kazuhisa Kobayashi (31) Takeo Aoki (58) stood attained the summit via normalroute.
Spantik (7027m)
14 members of three parties came. On August 5 Kouchi Amano (37), Ryutaro Inaba (27),and Satomi Hagiwara (29) reached the top via southeast ridge.
Biacherahi Tower (ca. 5800m)
Yasushi Yamanoi (36) and Ms. Taeko Yamanoi (45) succeeded in the first ascent of thesouth face of Central Peak on August 14 after six days in the wall. A summary report isgiven elsewhere by Tamotsu Nakamura.
Yashkuk Glacier
Shigeru Masuyama explored the west Yashkuk glacier northwest of Kamire Dior insummer. Presumably he first reached the glacier head and climbed one of the peaks inthe vicinity.
Khoser Gang South Peak (5970m)
Four members of Himalayan Green Club, Ms. Kyoko Endo (63), Mayumi Uehira (55),Hirowo Ito (62) and Keiko Tabata again visited the mountain 33km north of Skardu andfirst climbed the south peak of Khoser Gang. They established BC at 4035m on July 24 ,set up C1 on southwest ridge on the 26th and reached the top on the 27th. The northpeak (ca. 6400m) was first ascended by F.B. & H.B. Workman in 1899. Himalayan
Green Club is a NGO that has been contributing to the forestation, education andmedical services in Baltistan district since 1993.

INDIA
69 members of nine parties visited eight peaks.
Nilkanta (6595m)
Daisuke Narumi (30) and four other members entered into Satopanth Bank in northern6side of the mountain in the fall. They judged the north face was too dangerous andsought their climbing route to the west ridge. But finally they had to give up an attack
at a col at 5500m.
Gangstang (6162m)
JAC Tokai Section succeeded in the ascent via two routes. Tatsumi Mizuno (50) and twoother members first climbed the north face on August 5 and on the same day Moriyuki
Tanaka (71) and three other members who climbed southwest ridge joined the northface party at the top. The other three members stood atop on the 7th via the southwestridge.
Baihali Jot North Peak (6290m)
Nagano Section of JWAF succeeded in the first ascent of Baihali Jot North Peak in
Himachal Pradesh. Masashi Sakamoto (55) led the team of 10 members. On June 14
Takao Kurumizawa (51), Shujiro Katsuno (52) and Akitoshi Hayakawa (47) firstreached the summit via north ridge. The rest of the members made the second and thirdascents on June 14 and 15 in succession.

BHUTANSix members of one party visited one peak.
Teri Kang (ca. 7000m)
A party of six members of Chiba University headed by Hideaki Yoshinaga (60) made areconnaissance from the southern side. Hideaki Yoshinaga gives a brief report
elsewhere.
Editor’
Editor’s Note on the height of the mountains:
The map attached to the Yoshinaga’s report indicates the height of Masa Kang is 7194m.
The editor points out, however, that the height of 7000m peaks in this area has been yet
established and therefore remains controversial. The Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto
University, Japan, surveyed and estimated the height of Masa Kang during their
expeditions in 1983 – 1985. As s result they got to an assumption that Masa Kang would
have an altitude of 6800m above sea level and Tsenda-Kang massif to the east in thevicinity would definitely be lower than Masa Kang.

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