Tamotsu Nakamura

KANGRI GARPO RANGE IN SOUTHEAST TIBET
Least Known Mountains in East of Himalayas
Most of the mountaineers, even though they are Himalayan experts, would presumably
be unable to give a right answer to the questions, “Which glacier flows down to thelowest altitude in Tibet? Which glacier has the largest surface area also in Tibet?” The
former is Ata Glacier (south) of 14km length, of which end reaches 2440m above sea
level and the latter is Lhagu glacier of 30km length by 2 – 5km width that reminds us of
those in Patagonia and Alaska as well. The both glaciers locate in the eastern part ofKangri Garpo mountain range.

1. Geography
Kangri Garpo is a sizeable mountain range stretching 280km from northwest tosoutheast in N:28°30’ – 30°00’ and E:95°30’ – 97°30’. The range is encircled withthree tributaries of Tsangpo-Brahmaputra River. In the northern side of the range
Parlung Tsangpo is forming a narrow and precipitous valley. In the south and easternside Lohit River (Chinese name is Zayul Qu) plays an important role. The river isseparated to two tributaries, Kangrigarpo Qu (river) to northwest and Sang Qu tonortheast. The confluence is near Samai in Zayul County not far to the border withArnachal Pradesh, India.
In the south of the range, Dihang River, a tributary of Brahmaputra is flowing in low
level of 2000 – 3000m, and the mountain ridges do not exceed an altitude of 4000m thatis not workable to produce a climatic barrier effect. Therefore, Kangri Garpo, whichconstitutes the southernmost rim of Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, receives directly a humid
southwest seasonal wind from Indian Ocean. This causes much precipitation in themonsoon season and heavy snowfall in winter and spring. The north of the watershed
has a complicated topography. The eastern end is a high plateau while to the west thevalley of Parlung Tsangpo becomes a forested deep gorge. In the south the valley are
extremely eroded. For at least three months in a year villages are isolated from theoutside world because of heavy snow.
In an area surrounding Ata Kang La and Lhagu Glacier, 61 glaciers are observed over
200 square km. The total surface area of all the glaciers in Kangri Garpo amounts to1683 square km according to the survey having been conducted by China Acacemy ofScience that indicates Kangri Garpo is a mountain range where the ratio to be coveredby glaciers is the largest in Tibet. In particular, glaciers of Kangri Garpo are1

concentrated in the eastern part of the range.

Fig.1 Map of Kangri Garpo Range in Southeast Tibet

2. History of Explorations
Kangri Garpo exists between Tsangpo Great Bend, the eastern end of Himalaya, andBaxoila Ling that is the western end of Hengduan Mountains. Kenneth Masondescribed little about the mountains of East of Himalaya, whilist Frank Kingdon-Ward
specified the mountain region in question to be in an extension of Sino Himalaya. To thecontrary, however, Chinese Academy of Science maintains their opinion that Kangri
Garpo is to be defined as an independent range from a view point that the geographicalstructure has similarity to that of Nyainqentanglha mountain range in the north ofKangri Garpo.

2

The first foreigner who traversed the Kangri Garpo and brought back an information
was an agent of the survey of India, Pandit Kishen Singh called A-K. When A-K left
Zayul in mid 1882, four years had already elapsed after his departure from Darjiling
towards Lhasa with a secret mission to search the remotest heart of Tibetan highland.
He proceeded northwestward up Kangrigarpo Qu to the great range of Kangri Garpo,crossed Ata Kang La pass (4610m) and then came once more on to the elevated highlandof Tibet. In this journey he noticed an impassable barrier to the oft-asserted flow ofTsangpo Rivar to Irrawaddi River. This observation gave him a significant hint to solvea problem of the missing link of Tsangpo Great Bend. In 1911 F. M. Bailey arrived atShugden Gompa looking over Rawu Lake having traveled around the eastern corner ofthe range from Zayul on his way from Sichuan - Southeast Tibet to Assam.
In February 1933 Kingdon-Ward set off Sadiya of Assam with Ronald Kaulback andtraced A-K’s footstep to Ata Kang La. Kingdon-Ward continued his trip northwards toRawu and went further to the north in quest of Upper Salween River. He made apreliminary survey of Ata Glacier for the first time and recognized the highest peak,Chombo (Chinese name is Ruoni or Bairiga). In 1935 R. Kaulback came back to search
undiscovered regions in Salween upper basin being accompanied by J. Hanbury-Tracy.
They chose an approach from North Burma to Lohit River. After they explored thesoutheastern end of the range in the beginning, Kaulback traveled along Kangrigarpo
Qu and Tracy went down along Parlung Tsangpo. On the way Tracy entered into Midoi
valley. They again joined together at Bomi to go on with their quest of Upper Salween.
Chinese Academy of Science carried out a series of scientific surveys of the eastern partof the range in 1973, 76 and 80. Both Ata and Lhagu Glaciers were scaled. In 1989 and90 they investigated Medoi valley in the central part of the range not far from Rawu.

Picture.1

Thehighest

peakofKangri

Garpo,Bairiga(or Ruoni 6882 m).A view from Kogin
to the southwest. Frank Kingdon-Ward called as“Choembo Peak”(6700m). by Tamotsu Nakamura

3. Current Activities for Mountaineering
Three Japanese groups visited Kangri Garpo successively for reconnaissance in 1999and 2000.

3(1) May 1999 ― T. Nakamura’Nakamura’s party:
The highest peak of Kangri Garpo
We made an access from Yunnan. It took four days to drive from Zhongdian of Yunnan
to Rawu, where we left Sichuan-Tibet Highway and entered into Lhagu valley on May
17, 1999. We stationed overnight at a Tibetan house built chiefly of mud and stones withflat and low roof of one story in Lhagu (4060m). The village has 70 houses with 500
inhabitants. The caravan with four Tibetan muleteers and eight horses was organized
here. Kingdon-Ward mentioned the small village had only 10 houses.
On May 18, the weather was completely fine. At dawn a profile of unknown mountains
was gradually unveiled. Magnificent snow peaks and ridges emerged in sunshine
through the wide gap of Lhagu Glacier and reflected in Lhagu Lake. They are reallystriking objects. The glacier tongue ends in a partly blue ice cliff owing to undercuttingof the lake stream. Kingdon-Ward witnessed a large splinter of ice broke off and fell
down into the torrent. But nowadays the ice cliff is only ten meters high as the glacier
has been retreating.
We set off towards the south following a good trade path that leads to Ata Kang La anddown to Zayul through barley fields and then pastures in Lhagu valley. It is a wonderfultrekking course. In the both sides various shape of glaciers came into sight, one ishanging and the other is flat. The highest peak of Kangri Garpo (6882m) appeared infull view in the southwest at Kogin (4095m), a place for grazing animals in the valley.
We could identify the highest peak by using GPS and compass on Russian
Topographical Map of 1:100,000. Southwards of Kogin the valley forms a small gorge.
The path goes up the left bank about 2km and down to a widely opened river bed called
Chutsu (4185m), where we set up our base camp. Here is a 1.5m high enclosure made ofshrubs which is used as a temporary shelter by villagers coming for pasturage orgathering caterpillar fungus (Chinese traditional medicine).
On May 19, having crossed a gentle saddle on the ridge behind the base camp, we
ascended to a spur of the other ridge of further west traversing snow patches. It was thebest lookout point to have an overall view of Ata Glacier (North). The principal supply
source of a tremendous volume of snow to Ata Glacier is presumed to be the northernslope of the highest summit and adjacent high peaks ranging to the northwest. A mighty
ice-fall is descending from a gigantic snow plateau to a wide and flat saddle of 4600m
from which two glaciers are separated and flow down to south and north. Ata Glacier(South) has the most outstanding feature in Kangri Garpo. It has 700m huge ice-falland a unique landscape of glacier streaming down through primeval forests, whilst AtaGlacier (North) flows down 4km from the wide and flat saddle of 1km by 2km. Its width4

is about 2km and inclination is very gentle. The glacier end is as high as 4280m and theend moraines are forming two small lakes that prove the glacier is retreating. The lakes
are partly covered by floating ice.
Our reconnaissance from the lookout point tells us regarding one of the possible
climbing routes to the highest peak as under:a. To reach the wide saddle to separate two glacier from Ata Glacier (North)b. To ascent the ice-fall to a certain point of the upper Ata Glacierc. To climb the northeast ridge to the summit before getting to snow plateau of theglacier head
We returned to Lhagu village in cold rain on May 20.
(2) Sep. to Oct. 1999 ― Gakushuin University:
Kone Kangri of Kangri Garpo West
They attempted a reconnaissance of the 2nd highest massif, Kangrigarporla Feng 6602m
in Kangri Garpo West which is described in “Glaciers of Tibet” (A comprehensive survey
report of the Series of the Scientific Expedition to Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, Chinese
Academy of Sciences). For the purpose they selected a Gone valley as an access routefrom a fertile village of Taba (3000m) of agriculture and forestry. The village locates on
the left bank of Parlung Tsangpo 20km to the east from Sumzon betweem Bomi andRawu. However, no 6602m peak was found but they came to know it must be a peak of6347m according to 1:50,000 map of Chinese People’s Liberation Army (PLA) that ismost reliable. They named Kone Kangri for the said peak in consultation with ChinaMountaineering Association.
In two days caravan from Taba they ascended along Cone Qu to the end of Gone Glacierwith a small lake called as Gone Tso where they set up their base camp (4000m). Tabavillagers come here for grazing yaks in summer. The landscape of pastures on the way is
as beautiful as a picture. The overall length of Gone Glacier is approx. 12km and theglacier head gets to a saddle of 5500m. If they had established an advance camp there
and climbed further 500m steep slope, they could have reached the west ridge thatwould lead to the summit of Kone Kangri. Unfortunately they were unable to have evena glimpse of the profile because of bad weather, but it would supposedly be of a typicalsnow pyramid. There exist five 6000m peaks within a radius of 5km from Kone Kangri.
Needless to say, all the peaks remain untouched.
(3) Oct. to Nov. 2000 ― Silver Turtle party:
Lhagu Glacier of Kangri Garpo East5

Silver Turtle is a group of 60 – 70 years old members. They planned to explore andtraverse Lhagu Glacier westwards and cross the watershed to Midoi valley with anobject to have a clear view of the least known but enchanting peaks surrounding Lhagu
Glacier. In the beginning they met difficulties in an approach from Lhasa to Rawu as
the access road was impassable because of huge landslide and flooding having takenplace near Tomei and Pailung of Sichuan-Tibet Highway. The other parties sufferedfrom similar hardships. The Himalayan Association of Japan was forced to abandon
their plan to climb the highest peak of Bairiga (or Ruoni 6882m). Travelers to passthrough this notorious section along Parlung Tsangpo should always carefully checkwith the latest information on road conditions beforehand since landslides happen very
often in rainy season and consequently impede the traffic. Sometimes it jeopardizes
their travel plan.
Silver Turtle did not resign and took a long north-roundabout road. They left Lhasa on
October 14 and arrived at Rawu on October 21 via Nagqu, Baqen, Dengqen, Qamdo andBaxioi, and established their base camp (3955m) below of Lhagu Glacier. They started
their activity right from October 22. The route taken to enter onto Lhagu Glacier wasalong a yak trail from Lhagu village passing above the western bank of Lhagu Lake andthen Lhagu Glacier. The glacier end did provide no viable access because of manycrevasses. On the same day Camp I was set up at 4115m. On October 23 they followed ayak trail to a small pasture in a junction with a branch glacier going up to the ridge
dividing Lhagu and Ata Glaciers. They further proceeded along a yak trail and madeCamp 2 (4392m) on the southern rim of Lhagu Glacier 10km north of the glacier end.
The weather was not stable and sometimes it was blowing with snow.
On October 25 they spent one day for ascending Lhagu Glacier about 2km. The
conditions were even worse. On the following day they once returned to the pasture at ajunction with the branch glacier where Camp 3 was set up. On October 27 they climbed
up to a point of 5200m near the ridge dividing Lhagu and Ata Glacier following thebranch glacier in order to take a bird’s-eye view of Lhagu Glacier for reconnaissance andreturned to Camp 2 on the next day. October 27 was again a blowing day with snow. OnOctober 30 they traversed Lhagu Glacier from Camp 2 to Camp 4 on the glacier at
4470m one km from the left bank of Lhagu Glacier. On November 1, from Camp 4 they
ascended a contact line with the left (north) bank of the glacier to an altitude of 4590m
which was the highest point they could reach in Lhagu Glacier. Their reconnaissanceceased here and they came back to the base camp on November 4. On the way back theparty took a direct flight from Banda airport near Qamdo to Beijing.

64. Height of Peaks and Reference Data
If all the maps of 1:50,000 and 1:100,000 of Chinese People’s Liberation Army (PLA) tocover the entire mountain range of Kangri Garpo were available in our hands, questions
as to the height of peaks would be dispelled and any other ambiguity be cleared too. It isregrettable, however, that Chinese authority keeps them strictly confidential. I have
only a list of the correct height of peaks over 6500m picked up from the said PLA map
and a limited portion of 1:50,000 map of Kone Kangri massif. Therefore we must rely on
Russian Map of 1:100,000, topography of which is very accurate in detail and helpful
but an indication of mountain height is not accurate as they are slightly different from
PLA maps.
An altitude and name of he highest peak in Kangri Garpo might be of a controversial
issue since they change according to information sources as shown below:
a. Chinese People’s Liberation Army (PLA map)----------6882m Bairiga ( or Kangri Ga)
b. “Glacier of Tibet” (Chinese Academy of Science)-------6610m Ruonic.

– do – , attached map-------6800m no named. Map of Zayul County, 1:300,000-----------------------------6882m Bairiga (or Kangri Ga)
e. Russian Topographical Map, 1:100,000-------------------6805ｍ
f.

– do –

no name1:500,000--------------------6970ｍ no nameg. “Plant Hunter in Tibet” Kingdon-Ward 1933 (map)---6700m Chombo
h. “Salween” Ronald Kaulback 1935 (map)------------------6450m no namei. TPC (Defense Mapping Agency map) 1:500,000--------6335m no namej. AMS China, 1:250,000------------------------------------------6614m Chomo
Among the above we select the PLA map as the most authentic one, in accordance withwhich we note 6882m as a correct altitude for the highest peak in Kangri Garpo.
Meanwhile the second highest massif having 6606m peak has been confirmed to locatein Lhagu Glacier head in the Map of Bomi County of 1:250,000. ■■7