Parsing Sewing Patterns into 3D Garments
Floraine Berthouzoz1

Akash Garg2
1

Danny M. Kaufman2

Eitan Grinspun2
2

University of California,Berkeley

Maneesh Agrawala1

Columbia University

Figure 1: Our parser automatically converted a diverse set of sewing patterns into 3D garment models for this small crowd of women.

Abstract1

We present techniques for automatically parsing existing sewing
patterns and converting them into 3D garment models. Our parser
takes a sewing pattern in PDF format as input and starts by extracting the set of panels and styling elements (e.g. darts, pleats
and hemlines) contained in the pattern. It then applies a combination of machine learning and integer programming to infer how thepanels must be stitched together to form the garment. Our system
includes an interactive garment simulator that takes the parsed result and generates the corresponding 3D model. Our fully automatic
approach correctly parses 68% of the sewing patterns in our collection. Most of the remaining patterns contain only a few errors thatcan be quickly corrected within the garment simulator. Finally we
present two applications that take advantage of our collection ofparsed sewing patterns. Our garment hybrids application lets users
smoothly interpolate multiple garments in the 2D space of patterns.
Our sketch-based search application allows users to navigate thepattern collection by drawing the shape of panels.

Sewing patterns describe the cutting, folding and stitching operations required to physically fabricate clothing. While websites suchas burdastyle.de and voguepatterns.com provide ready access tothousands of such patterns online, the patterns themselves are terseand encode many of the sewing operations implicitly (e.g. how
pieces of the garment are stitched together). To identify the complete sequence of operations required to construct a garment, skilledhuman tailors usually have to rely on their experience and understanding of the conventions of sewing patterns.

CR Categories: I.3.8 [Computer Graphics]: Applications
Keywords: Diagram parsing, garment modeling
Links:

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Introduction

Garment designers for virtual characters in films and games do not
exploit the rich collection of sewing patterns available online togenerate 3D clothing. Instead, they manually create virtual clothing
using special-purpose garment modeling and sculpting tools. This
process requires significant expertise and is very time-consuming.
Recent sketch-based garment design systems [Wang et al. 2003;
Decaudin et al. 2006; Turquin et al. 2007; Robson et al. 2011;
Umetani et al. 2011] facilitate this process, but usually produce garment models that are simpler than real-world garments. Creating
detailed 3D garment models remains a challenging task.
We present techniques for automatically parsing sewing patterns
and converting them into 3D garment models. Given a pattern in
PDF format, our parser first extracts the panels or shaped pieces ofcloth that form the garment. It then extracts styling elements such as
darts, pleats and hemlines contained within the panels. The key stepin parsing is to determine how the panels must be stitched together.
Our parser combines machine learning with integer programming
to infer the stitching edge correspondences between panels. Our
system includes an interactive garment simulator to generate a 3Dmodel of the garment and drape it on a mannequin. The simulator
extends Sensitive Couture [Umetani et al. 2011] with a small set offeatures that allow it to support a larger variety of input patterns.
Our fully automatic approach correctly parses 68% of the sewing
patterns in our collection. Most of the remaining patterns contain
only a few errors that can be quickly corrected within the garment
simulator. Our system automatically generated all of the 3D garments in Figure 1 without any parsing errors.

Building a collection of parsed sewing patterns opens the door to
myriad data-driven applications. To demonstrate this potential, we
draw inspiration from recent work on the reuse, alteration, resizing and retargeting of garments [Wang et al. 2005; Apeagyei andOtieno 2007; Geng et al. 2009; Meng et al. 2012b; Brouet et al.
2012] and present two applications that allow users to further explore the space of garment design. Our first application uses theseparsed patterns to smoothly interpolate multiple garment panels in
the 2D pattern space. Users can now rapidly create and explore
multiple design variants via hybrids and combinations of exisiting
garment designs. Our second application allows users to navigate
available pattern collections by sketch-based search.

expensive ($3 to $15 per pattern). We have also examined patterns
from a number of sites and found that they all use standardized diagrammatic elements to help tailors understand the steps required tostitch and assemble the garment.

2

Each panel is labeled with a generic panel name (e.g. Back Skirt
Panel, Sleeve, Front, etc.) that roughly describes the position of thepanel on the body. Some panels may also include placement labels(e.g. Center Front, Waist, Pocket Placement etc.) on interior placement lines or on the exterior contour of the panel. These labels further specify the position of the panel with respect to the body andother panels. We have found that panel names and placement labels
are consistent across the pattern collections we have examined.

Previous Work

Parsing diagrams. People often use diagrams to communicate information. For example, sewing patterns are diagrams that describe
the operations necessary to assemble a garment. Researchers havedeveloped automatic parsers that can reconstruct the information
contained in many different types of diagrams, including engineering drawings [Haralick and Queeney 1982] and cartographic roadmaps [Mena 2003]. These parsers rely on image-processing methods and domain-specific knowledge to extract and interpret the diagrams. To the best of our knowledge, our work is the first to apply
a similar approach to parsing sewing patterns.
Sketch-based apparel design. Sketch-based interfaces construct
an internal representation of clothing from input strokes and annotations. In that sense our parser shares some similarities with sketchbased approaches. Turquin et al. [2004; 2007] ask users to oversketch a character’s body with a garment’s silhouette and infer the
garment’s geometry and drape. Robson et al. [2011] further incorporate contextual knowledge of key factors that affect a garment’s
shape. Wang et al. [2003] and Decaudin et al. [2006] ask users to
sketch on a mannequin, dividing the body into extruded panels; thelatter work then develops the panels into a design pattern.
There are also important differences between sketch-based tools
and our setting. First, most sketching interfaces oversketch a 3D
mannequin, whereas we interpret the 2D lines and text of a pattern.
Second, sketching gives strokes an orientation and temporal ordering; it allows for gestures. This data is not available in printed patterns. On the other hand, sketching interfaces must be interpreted
online, constructing a model only from past strokes; our patterns
are interpreted offline, allowing for global analysis.
Computer-aided design and fitting of sewing patterns. Sewing
patterns are the singular standard for specification of apparel designs in the fashion industry. For this reason, a considerable number of academic works and commercial software tools have beendeveloped for computer-aided garment pattern design [Meng et al.
2012a]; representative samples include ClothAssembler [Fontana
et al. 2005], Optitex PDS (Pattern Design Software), Marvelous
Designer, and Pattern Works Int’l. Interpretation of sewing patterns and prediction of their drape is an important technology fordeveloping a virtual fitting room [Protopsaltou and Luible 2002;
Cordier et al. 2003; Meng et al. 2010], ideally one that accommodates virtual people in all shapes, sizes, and poses [Guan et al.
2012]. Igarashi and Hughes [2002] presented an interactive tool for
placing garment panels on a mannequin. In this work, we extend
Sensitive Couture [Umetani et al. 2011] to assemble parsed patterns
and automatically drape them on a mannequin.

3

Sewing Patterns

We purchased 50 sewing patterns from burdastyle.de. While many
pattern collections are available online, we chose Burdastyle because its collection of over 8000 patterns is large, diverse, and in-

3.1

Diagrammatic Elements of Sewing Patterns

Figure 2 shows a sewing pattern for a dress that is composed ofnine closed polygonal regions called panels. Some edges of thepanels include multiple contour lines that indicate how the shape of
the panel must change for a small range of standard clothing sizes.
Each such contour line is drawn using a different line style (e.g.
dotted, crosses etc.), with the largest size drawn as a solid line.

Patterns may also contain styling elements:• Darts are triangular or diamond-shaped folds sewn into thefabric to fit the garment to the body. The two sides of the triangle or diamond meet at an apex and must be stitched together. The width of a dart is the maximum distance between
its two sides. We differentiate a mid-panel-dart which occurs
within a panel from a side-dart which occurs along the panel
contour. In Figure 2, panels 1, 4 and 6 contain side-darts.
• Pleats are formed by doubling fabric back on itself and securing it in place with a stitch. They are marked in the pattern by two nearly parallel lines and a “Pleat” label between
the two lines. As with darts we differentiate mid-panel-pleatsfrom side-pleats based the distance to the panel contour. In
Figure 2 panels 3 and 7 contain side-pleats.
• Hemlines occur near the bottom contour of a panel and indicate that the fabric must be folded and sewn to the interior of
the garment. In Figure 2 panels 3, 6 and 7 contain hemlines.
• Foldlines usually occur along an axis of symmetry within apanel. They are labeled with the word “Fold” and indicate thatthe panel should be folded in half and sewn along the matching edges of the exterior contour.

3.2

Assembling a Garment from a Sewing Pattern

The first step in tailoring a garment is to cut each panel from apiece of cloth. Many sewing patterns exploit left-right symmetry
and only include panels for the left side of the garment. Therefore
tailors must duplicate and reflect each panel in the pattern to obtainthe complete set of panels for the garment.
To assemble the garment, tailors sew the panels together along stitching edges. These edges
usually lie on the contour of the panel and ex4 Backhibit low variation in curvature. For example,
the Back panel of Figure 2 has six stitchingedges along its contour and two more edges
within a side-dart (see inset). The bottom edgeof the panel is counted as one stitching edge thatis split by a side-dart. BurdaStyle patterns also include a seam allowance of 5/8” along contour edges that allows tailors to inset
stitches from the panel contour. The allowance prevents the stitchesfrom falling too close to the boundary of the cloth. Each stitchingedge either remains “free” or is stitched together with one or multiple other stitching edges usually belonging to different panels. We

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7 Sleeve

Figure 2: A sewing pattern from our collection containing nine panels. Each panel contains multiple contour lines that represent different
garment sizes and are drawn using different line styles (dotted, crosses, etc.) We have annotated some styling elements including darts(brown), pleats (purple), and hemlines (green) as well as placement labels (blue) and corner-match circles (red). The side-dart and side-pleat
insets show how the edges marked a and b must be sewn together to properly form the styling element. The hemline inset shows how the panel
must be folded at the line marked as a hemline stitched along an additional line (dotted) located at twice the distance δ from the nearby panel
contour. The corner-match circles inset shows the number 7 circles from the Back and Front panels. These circles indicate matching panel
corners. Readers can zoom into the PDF to see the text provided in the original pattern as well as the different line styles on panel contours.

say that these attached stitching edges are in correspondence.
Patterns usually include a sparse set of annotations we call cornermatch circles that are designed to help tailors infer the correspondences between stitching edges. These numbered circles always
appear at the intersection of two stitching edges and tailors mustmatch the number across different panels to identify a correspondence between panel corners (Figure 2). While corner-match circles aid tailors in understanding how to sew together the garment,
they only specify how panels join together at a few corners. Tailors must usually consider multiple corner-match circles as well thepanel names and placement labels to determine the complete set ofcorrespondences along stitching edges.
While most of the panels in a pattern form the main-body of thegarment, many patterns also include a few decorative panels such as
pockets, ruffles and belts. Since panel names are consistent acrosspatterns, tailors can easily distinguish between main-body panelsand decorative panels based on their names. Tailors often consider
the main-body panels first and once they have understood how these
are assembled they add in the decorative panels.

drape a 3D model of the garment. It extends the Sensitive Couturesystem of Umetani et al. [2011] with a small set of features thatallow it to support a larger variety of real-world input patterns.

5ParserOur parser includes two stages, a panel extractor and a correspondence identifier. It outputs a list of panels, styling elements andstitching edge correspondences that together describe how the panels must be stitched together to form the garment.

5.1

Our input sewing patterns are vector graphics files in PDF format
and are composed of two basic types of elements: line segments andtext. The panel extractor is responsible for analyzing this collectionof segments and text to identify the panels and styling elements
along with their associated labels, placement labels, stitching edges
and corner-match circles.
5.1.1

4

Overview

Converting a sewing pattern into a 3D garment model involves twocomponents; a sewing pattern parser (Section 5) and a garment
simulator (Section 6). Our work primarily focuses on the parser. It
takes a sewing pattern in PDF format as input and starts by extracting the set of panels and styling elements contained in the pattern. It
then identifies the stitching edges for each panel. Finally it applies a
combination of machine learning and integer programming to infer
the most likely correspondences between the stitching edges. Our
garment simulator then uses these correspondences to generate andExtractor

Extracting Panels

To identify the panels the extractor considers all solid line segments
and groups them into connected components. In most cases each resulting component represents a single panel. For example Figure 3(top-left) shows the Sleeve connected component for the pattern inFigure 2. In some instances, however, a component may represent
a mid-panel styling element rather than a complete panel. Thus, foreach component the extractor checks if it is fully enclosed by anyother component and if so it groups them together.
The extractor then traces out the external contour of each panel at
the largest clothing size. It starts with the line segment that is fur-Figure 3: Extracting the Sleeve panel. The connected component(top-left) and stitching edges (top-right) of the panel. The pleats andhemline stitching edge correspondences (bottom-left). Grouping thestitching edges adjacent to side-pleats.(bottom-right).

thest away from the center of the panel and then steps along connected segments, while always choosing the outermost segment if
the path branches. This tracing procedure ends when the extractor
returns to the initial segment. The result is a closed contour loop.
The extractor next considers the set of line segments and text thatlie within the contour of each panel. It identifies the largest text
element within the panel as the panel name. The extractor differentiates between main-body panels and decorative panels based on thepanel name. As a one-time pre-process we manually built a lookup
table mapping the panel name to each of these two categories.
The extractor also collects all of the interior line segments andchains the connected segments into longer continuous lines. It thenassociates any remaining text elements with nearby interior lines
and contour lines if the distance between the text and line is withina small threshold. These labeled lines represent either placement
lines, foldlines or hemlines. In some cases a placement line coincides with only a part of a contour line and the extent of the placement line is delineated by two short perpendicular line segments.
We identify these boundary segments to properly mark the extent
of the placement line. To identify the corner-match circles, the extractor finds interior line segments that form small circles. It thentreats nearby numerical text element as the corner-match label.
The extractor splits the contour and interior lines into stitchingedges. As we have noted stitching edges are relatively smooth anddo not contain sharp corners. Therefore the extractor breaks theselines into stitching edges whenever the angle between consecutive
segments is larger than a threshold (we use 25◦ ). In Figure 3 (topright), red circles indicate endpoints of stitching edges. Note that
our implementation directly treats the contours of extracted panels
as stitching edges and does not adjust for the 5/8” seam allowance.
5.1.2

Extracting Styling Elements

To identify pleats the extractor looks for a pair of nearly parallelinterior lines that contain the text label “Pleat” between them. It
differentiates mid-panel-pleats from side-pleats based on whether
or not the pleat lines touch the panel contour. To identify darts theextractor looks for loops in the set of lines comprising the panel.
It marks loops that only include interior lines as mid-panel-darts
and loops that include part of the panel contour as side-darts. For
example, the dart in the Front panel of Figure 2 contains part of thepanel contour and is therefore classified as a side-dart.
Styling elements such as darts, pleats, hemlines and foldlines di-

Back Sleeve

Belt

Grouped Stitching EdgeFree

1 2 3 4 5...

Styling Element
Correspondences

1 2 3 4 5...

Stitching Edges

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e2
e
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Chosen Correspondences
Free eSleeve
Back ...
e e e e ...

...

Connected Components

Decorative
Stitching Edges

7 SleeveMain-Body Stitching Edges

Probabilities
Sleeve Back ...
e e e e e ...

Figure 4: Probability tables for the main-body panel stitchingedges (top-left) and decorative panel stitching edges (bottom-left).
Red indicates higher probability of correspondence. Optimal stitching edge correspondences chosen by our integer program (right).

rectly encode their corresponding stitching edges and the extractor
immediately marks these correspondences. In a dart, for example,
the two interior lines that meet at the apex form two corresponding
stitching edges that must be sewn together. In a pleat the two parallel stitching edges correspond to one another. For a hemline we firstform an additional stitching edge located at twice the distance δ between the hemline and contour. This additional edge corresponds tothe parallel contour stitching edge. To handle a foldline we reflect
the panel stitching edges across the foldline. If the reflected edges
lie near existing stitching edges we mark them as corresponding.
Otherwise we create new stitching edges at the reflected locations
and mark those as corresponding. We color-code pleat and hemline
correspondences for the Sleeve panel in Figure 3 (bottom-left).
Note that when side-darts or side-pleats are sewn into a garment
they eliminate a portion of the contour stitching edge. Therefore
we group the adjacent contour stitching edges on either side of thedart or pleat and treat them as a single stitching edge. In Figure 3(bottom-right), the top of the Sleeve includes 9 side-pleats and wegroup the adjacent edges (black) into a single stitching edge.

5.2

Correspondence Identifier

The correspondence identifier is responsible for determining how
the panels should be stitched together to form the garment. It infers
the most likely correspondences between all of the remaining stitching edges in the garment using a combination of machine learningand integer programming.
Assuming the sewing patterns exploit left-right symmetry, the correspondence identifier first duplicates and mirrors all panels. To
form a complete garment, it is essential to stitch together the mainbody panels. The decorative panels serve to further embellish thegarment but are less important. Therefore, our approach is to firstprocess the main-body panels (step 1) and then handle the decorative panels (step 2).
In each step we build a table of probabilities P where each entry
Pi,j captures the likelihood of a correspondence between a pair ofstitching edges (ei , ej ) (Figure 4). In the first step we consider all
pairs (ei , ej ) where both ei and ej belong to main-body panels. In
the second step we focus on stitching edge pairs where the first edge
ei belongs to a decorative panel and the second edge ej belongs
to a main-body panel. We augment both of these tables with an
extra column to capture the probability Pi,n+1 that stitching edge

(1)subject to

Pn+1

one corresp. per row iPnno self corresp.

j=1 xi,j = 1
i=1 xii = 0∀i, j, xij − xji = 0
xps + xpt + xqs + xqt = 1

(2)

(3)
mutual corresp. (ω is symmetric) (4)one corresp. per circle(5)

Typically each stitching edge either remains free or corresponds toexactly one other stitching edge. Constraint (2) enforces this requirement; we will soon modify this constraint to handle multiple
stitching edge correspondences. Constraint (3) prevents stitchingedges from corresponding with themselves. Constraint (4) forces
mutual correspondence between stitching edges.
Constraint (5) considers stitching edges that are adjacent
to corner-match circles. These circles indicate matchingcorners on two different panels and limit the potential
correspondences to four stitching edge pairs. As
esep
shown in the inset, edges ep and eq are adjacentto the first circle and edges es and et are adja- 7
7cent to the second circle. Constraint (5) ensures
eq etthat exactly one of the four potential correspondences between these edges is active.
We solve for X using a built-in MATLAB integer programmingroutine1 , which implements a linear program solver using branchand-bound [Wolsey 2000]. Figure 4 shows the optimal set of stitching edge correspondences for our example.
5.2.1

Handling Multiple Correspondences

Some panels contain stitching edges that correspond to more than
one other stitching edge. For example, one edge of a Sleeve often
attaches to both a Front panel and a Back panel (Figure 2). We have
manually examined our collection of patterns to identify a small setof panels that contain such multi-correspondence stitching edges.
In the panel extractor we mark edges that belong to these panels as
potential multi-correspondence edges.
Another example occurs when the garment contains multiple layers stitched at the same edge. In this case a corner-match circle
with the same number appears on more than two panels. We markedges adjacent to these corner-match circles as potential multicorrespondence edges.
1 bintprog(): http://www.mathworks.com/help/optim/ug/binary-integer-programming-algorithms.html

d...

Ba Slee
ck ve
ck

Ba

panel name

nd

Fro
nt
Fre
e

Ba

ck
B

ev
Ba e
ck

Sle

an

...

xi,j log Pi,j

i=1 j=1

...

x

n n+1
X
X

Orientation...

argmax...

Using the monotonicityof the logarithm, we equivalently seekP
to maximize n
i=1 log Pi,ω(i) . We encode ω by the n × n + 1
indicator matrix X, with unit entries encoding correspondences(∀i, xi,ω(i) = 1), and remaining entries zero. This gives rise to
the integer programming problem

...

i=1

...

Normalized Length
Average Curvature

...
...

Pi,ω(i) .

...
...

...

n
Y

Feature Histograms...

panel name...

This probability table allows us to find the most likely correspondences. Let ω : [1 . . . n] → [1 . . . n + 1] map the index i of eachedge ei to a corresponding edge index ω(i), with ω(i) = n + 1
indicating a free (unmatched) edge. We further restrict ω, in a way
we will soon make precise, to respect a few important properties ofgarments. We seek the map ω that maximizes the joint probability

Panel-Panel TableBa

ei remains “free” and is not attached to any other edge. We describe
how we compute these probabilities in Section 5.2.2.

Figure 5: Panel-Panel Table. For each pair of panel names, we
identify all stitching edge correspondences that attach these twopanels and compute a set of feature histograms for them. Empty
cells indicate that the panels never attach to one another.

Finally, for each potential multi-correspondence edge ek we replace
Constraint (2) withP
1 ≤ n+1
j=1 xkj ≤ m up to m corresp. in row k .
It may seem at first sight that this constraint allows an edge to be
simultaneously marked as free (col. n + 1) and stitched (anothercolumn). It can be shown that such a simultaneous marking is never
optimal for the objective (1).
5.2.2

Correspondence Probabilities

To compute the probability that two stitching edges correspond we
consider geometric information about the edges (e.g. edge length,
curvature, etc.) as well as panel-level information (e.g. the name ofthe panel the stitching edge belongs to, nearby placement labels,etc.). We have found that the panel-level information is crucial andgeometric information alone is usually not enough.
For example in Figure 2, the long edge of panel 5 is geometricallysimilar to the top and bottom edges of panels 2, 3 and 6, as wellas the bottom edge of panel 4. However, we can eliminate some ofthese possibilities based on the panel names. Analyzing a set of assembled patterns we find that a Back Band never attaches to a Frontor a Front Skirt. Thus, we can set the correspondence probability
between any Back Band edge and Front or Front Skirt edge to zero.
We extend this idea to multiple features of the stitching edges.
Our approach is to analyze a training set of assembled patterns,
for which correspondences are given, summarizing the analysis ina symmetric panel-panel table (Figure 5). For each pair of panel
names (allowing for self-pairing, as in a sleeve), we (a) identify
all stitching edge correspondences that attach the two panels; (b) if
there are no correspondences, we mark the cell as empty, otherwise,
we store feature histograms in this cell. We consider two types offeatures: edge features capture properties of each edge (e.g. length,
curvature, placement labels, etc.), while match features capture how
well the corresponding edges match with one another (e.g. length
difference, curvature difference). A complete list of features is detailed below.
To compute the correspondence probability Pi,j for a test pair ofstitching edges ei and ej we look up the names of the panels they
belong to. If the corresponding cell in the panel-panel table is empty
we set Pi,j to zero. Otherwise Pi,j = P (Ci,j = 1|Fi,j ) where Ci,jis a binary variable that equals 1 when the two edges correspond and1nFi,j = [Fi,j, ..., Fi,j
] is a vector of all features in the panel-panel
cell for the edge pair. We use naive Bayes to compute
P (Ci,j = 1|Fi,j ) =where

P (Fi,j |Ci,j ) =P (Fi,j |Ci,j =1)P (Ci,j =1)
P (Fi,j |Ci,j =1)+P (Fi,j |Ci,j =0)kk P (Fi,j |Ci,j ).

Q

(6)
(7)

k
Each P (Fi,j|Ci,j = 1) is directly given by the histogram in thepanel-panel cell and we multiply them together to form the likelik
hood P (Fi,j |Ci,j = 1). We compute P (Fi,j|Ci,j = 0) by first
aggregating the histograms across all other cells in the panel-panel
table and then form P (Fi,j |Ci,j = 0) as the product of these feature probabilities. We treat the prior probability P (Ci,j = 1) asa constant for all pairs of stitching edges and can thus neglect theterm in Equation 6.
Computing Edge and Match Features. We compute a number offeatures for each pair of stitching edges. Several of these features
rely on panel-level geometric information. So as a pre-process, we
compute the axis-aligned bounding box and the up orientation ofeach panel. We use styling elements and placement labels to compute the up orientation as follows. Since hemlines occur near thebottom contour of a panel (Section 3) if a panel contains a hemline
we set the up vector perpendicular to it. Similarly the Top placement
label occurs along the top contour of a panel and we set the up vector perpendicular to it. In the absence of such labels we set the up
vector to the longest edge of the bounding box. We then computethe following edge features.
• Normalized length. We compute the length of the stitchingedge normalized by the length of the diagonal of the panel
bounding box. This feature captures the length of the stitchingedge compared to the size of its panel.
• Average curvature. Each stitching edge is a polyline. We first
fit a degree 5 polynomial curve to the polyline and then compute it’s curvature at constant intervals. We average together
these curvatures to form the final feature.
• Orientation. To capture the orientation of each stitching edge
we compute the dot product of the vector connecting the endpoints of the stitching edge with the up vector.
• Placement label We determine if the stitching edge has aplacement label associated with it. We set the feature to Empty
if the stitching edge is not labeled and to the label name otherwise.
• Styling element. If the stitching edge is adjacent to a side-dart,
side-pleat or near a hemline we set the feature to the name ofthe styling element. Otherwise we set the feature to Empty.
To obtain the match features for a pair of stitching edges we simply compute the L2 distance between their normalized length, average curvature and orientation features. For the placement label andstyling element features we build a binary feature that is set to 1 if
the corresponding edge features have the same value.

6

Simulator

Once we have parsed a sewing pattern we use a garment simulator
to generate the corresponding 3D model and drape it on a virtualmannequin. Work on dynamic, physical simulation of cloth spansover two decades [Terzopoulos et al. 1989; Baraff and Witkin 1998;
Choi and Ko 2002; House and Breen 2000; Bridson 2003; Rohmer
et al. 2010]. We build on the Sensitive Couture interactive garment
modeler [Umetani et al. 2011]. Sensitive Couture provides synchronized, interactive, bidirectional creation and editing of 2D clothing
patterns and their corresponding physically simulated 3D garment.
This interface is a natural front-end for our parser since it not only
provides a 3D garment model but also enables users to immediately
customize the parsed patterns via manipulation and editing with direct feedback on changes to the corresponding 3D physical drape.
To support a large variety of real-world sewing patterns we haveextended Sensitive Couture with a small set of additional features:
Positioning panels. To successfully drape a garment in Sensitive Couture, it is critical to provide good initial seed positions in
3D for all garment panels. In the original Sensitive Couture users

had to manually specify the seed position. However, in our pattern collection, each panel name roughly describes the position of
the panel with respect to the body (e.g. all Sleeve panels must be
draped around arms). As a one-time pre-process we manually built
a lookup table mapping main-body panel names to a rough 3D position on the virtual mannequin. We have modified Sensitive Couture
to use this table to assign the seed position for main-body panels.
We also rotate the main-body panels so that they point outwards
with respect to the mannequin. Finally, we position decorative panels at a small offset from the main-body panels they attach to.
Interior stitching edges. The original Sensitive Couture only allowed stitching edges to occur along panel contours. However,styling elements like darts, pleats, and hemlines require interior
stitching edges. To properly handle such interior edges we havemodified Sensitive Couture to locally remesh the underlying simulation mesh around them [Shewchuk 2002]. This modification is
crucial to obtain proper folding around the styling elements.
Sequential draping. Most garments are comprised of multiple layers (e.g. a Ruffle panel attaches on top of a Front main-body panel).
Tailors generally drape the most interior layers first. We modified
Sensitive Couture to allow draping in layers so that the most interior layers are draped first and then frozen in place before adding thenext layer. This feature improves convergence speeds of the simulation and reduces the overhead of collision-processing.

7

Results

Figure 6 shows the parsing results as well as the simulated garments
for five example patterns from the set of 50 patterns we purchasedfrom burdastyle.de. Pattern 9306 is the garment we generate for thepattern shown in Figure 2. All patterns use styling elements. For
example pattern 6045 includes darts and pleats to fit the garment
close to the body. Four of the patterns use decorative panels suchas a belt (6045), pockets (6008, 6023, 6028), multiple dress layers (6023) or additional pleat panels that are inserted between themain dress panels (6008). Figure 1 shows a variety of additional
garments models generated by our system.
To evaluate our system, we processed all 50 patterns in our dataset.
This collection is largely comprised of women’s dresses but also includes some tops (e.g. blouses, sweatshirts, etc.) and trousers. Eachpattern contains 10 to 30 panels that are attached to one anotherby an average of 33 (std: 17) stitching edge correspondence. Parsing the patterns is relatively fast: our MATLAB implementation requires 5-10 seconds for pattern extraction and a few seconds forcorrespondence identification. Our simulator requires about 15 seconds to drape the 3D garment model and fully converge.
To test the parser we first built ground-truth data by manually annotating all of the stitching edge correspondences for all 50 patterns.
We used leave-one-out cross validation to evaluate our correspondence identifier. Thus, for each pattern we treated all of the other 49
patterns as a training set. We also excluded information about thetest pattern from manually constructed look-up tables. We foundthat for 68% of the patterns (34 out of the 50 ) our parser correctly
identified all stitching edge correspondences. For the other 32%,
our parser incorrectly marked an average of 4.4 (std: 4.7) correspondences. Note that all results shown in Figures 1 and 6 wereparsed correctly, and did not require any manual correction.
Aggregating across all patterns our parser correctly identified 87%of the stitching edge correspondences. Corner-match circles are themost informative indicators of a correspondence. For each pair ofcircles with the same label, exactly one pair of adjacent edges correspond. To determine how much corner-match circles contribute to
the learning, we manually annotated correspondences indicated bycorner-match circles in our ground truth data. We then found that

Pattern 9306

Extracted Pattern

Front

Three-quarters

Back

2

1

3

Stitching Edge Correspondences

4

6

5
9

7

8

1. Front Skirt Panel 4. Back Band 7. Back Skirt Panel
5. Back Facing 8. Front Facing
2. Sleeve
6. Front
9. Back
3. Front Band

Pattern 6008

1

2

3

8

4

1. Center Front
2. Side Front
3. Side Back
4. Center Back
5. Back Pleat Piece
6. Front Pleat Piece
2

6

7

12
11
10
7. Strap
8. Front Neckband Bottom
9. Front Neckband Top
10. Back Neckband Bottom
11. Back Neckband Top
12. Pocket

9

1

5

3

4

Pattern 6028

5
6
7

1. Waist Band
2. Wrist Band
3. Pocket

4. Hood
5. Front
6. Sleeve

8
7. Back
8. Waist Band

5

Pattern 6023

1

4

6
7

1. Lower Skirt Panel
2. Front Skirt Panel
3. Front Top
4. Back

1

Pattern 6045

3

2

5. Pocket Pouch
6. Front Bottom
7. Front Facing

4

3

2

5

6
7
8

1. Center Back
2. Side Back
3. Front

4. Pants Front
5. Back Yoke
6. Front Yoke

7. Pants Back
8. Belt

Figure 6: Extraction, parsing and simulation results for five sewing patterns. For each pattern, we show the extracted panels and highlightthe identified styling elements (darts are drawn in blue, pleats in green, hemlines in red, and foldlines in yellow), placement labels (center
front/back labels are drawn in cyan, waist labels in gray, remaining labels in magenta), and corner-match circles. We draw corner-match
circles with identical numbers in the same color. We color-code stitching edge correspondences identified by our parser. We show three viewsof the 3D garment model draped on a mannequin using our simulator. Our parser correctly identified all correspondences for these patterns.

Extracted Pattern

Stitching Edge Correspondences

Front

Three-quarters

Back

1

Pattern 6030

2
4

3

5
6
8

1. Back
2. Sleeve
3. Waistband Front
4. Waistband Back

Pattern 6003

2

4incorrect
corresp.

7

5. Wristband
6. Front
7. Back Facing
8. Front Facing

3

incorrect
corresp.

incorrect
corresp.

missedcorresp.

5

1
6

7

8

1. Front
2. Wristband
3. Waistband Front
4. Waistband Back

5. Back Facing
6. Upper Sleeve
7. Back
8. Under Sleeve

missedcorresp.

missedcorresp.

Figure 7: Garments with incorrect or missed correspondences. For Pattern 6030, the incorrect correspondence causes the jacket to be sewn
together in the front. For Pattern 6003, the missed correspondences cause the sleeve panels to be incorrectly attached to the main body.

our parser correctly marked 97% of these correspondences. These
numbers confirm that corner-match circles are very helpful in determining how the panels attach to one another. However, patterns are
only sparsely annotated with such circles. Only 27% of all correspondences in our dataset were indicated with corner-match circles.

Left Back
LB

Free
F

Left Sleeve
LS

Left Front BandLFBRight Front P : Left Front
2
Left Back
RF
LB
Free
F

Left Sleeve
LS

While not perfect, the correspondences identified by our parser provide the user with a good starting point. Figure 7 shows some examples of garments with a few incorrect correspondences. In thesecases, the user can still load the pattern into our simulator to produce a 3D model. They can then use the interactive tools in Sensitive Couture to quickly correct the problems. For example, the user
can select two stitching edges to add or remove a correspondence.

Left Back
LB

Limitations. Currently, our parser only processes patterns fromburdastyle.de and extracts the panels at the largest clothing size.
Furthermore, it assumes that all patterns exploit the left-right symmetry and only includes panels for the left side of the garment.
Although this assumption is violated by patterns for asymmetricgarments, such patterns typically annotate panels that should not
be duplicated. Our current implementation does not process suchannotations. As future work, we plan to extract multiple sizes andhandle asymmetric patterns correctly.

Figure 8: Aligning two panels. We first identify the attachment labels for the two panels and then compute the best alignment between these labels using string edit distance.

8

Applications

Users can take advantage of our collection of parsed sewing patterns to explore the space of garment designs. We have developed
two applications that support such exploration. Our garment hybrids application lets users smoothly interpolate multiple garmentsin the 2D space of patterns. Our sketch-based search application
allows users to navigate the pattern collection by drawing panels.

8.1

Garment Hybrids

We have developed an algorithm that allows users to smoothly interpolate multiple sewing patterns and thereby create garment hybrids.
Users must choose two input patterns and can either interpolate all
the panels or select individual panels to interpolate. Our interpola-

P1: Left Front

Alignment

Left Front Band
LFB
P1 : LB

LS

LB

LFB

Left Back
LB
NULL
F

P2 : LB

LS

LB

LFB

RF

F

tion algorithm works in the space of 2D patterns to ensure that eachintermediate result maintains a valid garment design. Interpolating
the 3D shape of each garment would require users to manually specify correspondences and would likely violate constraints imposedby the panels, styling elements and stitching correspondences.
To interpolate between two garments we identify all of the panels
that they have in common based on the panel names. We then interpolate the contour stitching edges between each pair of panels andthen interpolate the styling elements within the panels.
8.1.1

Interpolating Panel Contour Stitching Edges

Stitching edges on panel contours serve to attach the panel to surrounding panels. When interpolating between two garments it isessential to maintain these stitching edge correspondences as muchas possible to ensure proper connectivity of the interpolated result.
Given two panels P1 and P2 with the same name, but from different
patterns, we start by computing an alignment between their contour
stitching edges. This alignment ensures that we interpolate between

Side-Dart Interpolation

P1{

virtual dart

s1 P2

than a minimum width threshold ω. We experimentally set ω byexamining our pattern collection and finding the minimum width
dart within it. Removing a side-dart is equivalent to flipping thepanel that initially contains the side-dart in this procedure.

s2

If both panels contain a dart on the same aligned stitching edge weconsider the proportional offset distance to each one. If these distances are similar then we interpolate the respective stitching edgesof the darts. If the offset distance differ significantly we remove
the first dart and insert the second. We use analogous procedures to
add/remove/interpolate side-pleats.

>ω

P1

{

Hemline Interpolation>ω

virtualhemlineP2

interpolation

Figure 9: Interpolation of side-dart (top) and hemline (bottom).

stitching edges that connect to surrounding panels in similar ways.
To create the alignment, we label each stitching edge of both panelswith the name of the panel it is attached to (Figure 8). If the edge
does not participate in a correspondence we label it as Free. Notethat while many of attachment labels for P1 and P2 are identical theset of labels is not exactly the same; P2 has a Right Front label thatis not present in P1 . Such similarity in the set of adjacent panels istypical for panels that have the same name.
The contour attachment labels form a circular list, where the ordering is determined by connectivity of the edges. In Figure 8, the list
for P1 is Left Back, Left Sleeve, Left Back and Left Front Band,
Free and the list for P2 is Left Front Band, Right Front, Free, Left
Back, Left Sleeve and Left Back. We use string edit distance tocompute the the optimal alignment between these lists. Since thelists are circular, we compute the alignment for each circular offsetof the second list and choose the best one.
Unlike the standard string edit distance algorithm, we do not allow for substitutions because such modifications would change theconnectivity of the interpolated panel and could generate an invalid
garment. We do allow insertion of Null labels into either string fora constant cost. Null insertion corresponds to adding a zero length
stitching edge to the panel. In Figure 8 we find that the best alignment for P1 and P2 occurs at offset 4 and adds a null label for P1 .
After aligning the stitching edge labels we translate the panels sothat their centers of mass are aligned. We also rotate the panels sothat stitching edges with the same attachment label are as close to
one another as possible. Finally, we parameterize the aligned stitching edges by arc length and linearly interpolate them.
8.1.2

Interpolating Styling Elements

Our interpolation algorithm supports adding or removing stylingelements such as darts, pleats and hemlines. These elements areoften essential to the look and fit of the garment and are therefore
important to handle during interpolation.
Consider the case of interpolating between a panel P1 that does
not contain a dart and P2 that contains a side-dart. After aligning
the contour stitching edges of the panels we compute a proportional
offset distance in P2 between one endpoint of the stitching edge andthe dart. For the example in Figure 9 (top) this distance corresponds
to s1 /(s1 + s2 ), where s1 and s2 are the segments of the stitchingedge adjacent to the dart. We then insert a corresponding virtualside-dart at the same proportional distance in P2 . Once we havealigned the two stitching edges and their respective side-darts inthis manner we linearly interpolate between them. However, darts
that are smaller than a minimum width, are unlikely to occur insewing patterns. Therefore, during the interpolation we convert thevirtual side-dart into a true side-dart only when its width is greater

For mid-panel-darts and pleats we use a similar procedure, butinstead of computing the offset distance proportional to a single
stitching edge endpoint, we compute the offset distances to the threeclosest stitching edge endpoints that share the same attachment labels. We then linearly interpolate these offset distances to generate
the intermediate position of the dart or pleat. In the cases we have
tried the intermediate dart or pleat always stayed within the panel
contour. However our algorithm does not guarantee this property.
Finally, consider adding a hemline (Figure 9 (bottom)). We first
identify the stitching edge of P2 that runs parallel to the hemline
and find the corresponding stitching edge in P1 . We then insert avirtual hemline into P1 that is initially co-located with the edge. We
then interpolate the relative distance between the virtual hemline in
P1 and the hemline in P2 . As with darts, we consider a minimum
hemline width before adding it to the intermediate pattern.
8.1.3

Hybrid Results

Figure 10 shows several garment hybrids created with our application. In the top row the user interpolated complete garments (allpanels). In the transition between 9306 and 7951 note how the neckline smoothly changes while the pleats in the Sleeve and Skirt panels gradually disappear. Interpolating from 7951 to 6047, introduce
new side-darts to the Front and Skirt panels. These darts fit the garment closer to the body without using pleats as were originally usedin 9306. The neckline and sleeves also change significantly in shapein the intermediate designs.
In the bottom row, the user specifies subsets of panels to interpolate. On the left side, the user interpolates the sleeves. Note how thenumber of pleats in the sleeves increase. On the right, the user interpolates the Front, Back and Collar panels. The intermediate designs
introduce many new pleats at the side of the garment and reduce thesize of the Front and Back panels to make the garment tighter andshorter. In addition the Collar opens up significantly.

8.2

Search and Navigation of Pattern Collections

The look of a 3D garment is largely dependent on the shape of its
panels and styling elements. Yet, online sewing pattern collections
today force users to navigate the collection by scrolling through listsof pattern names. To help users better navigate the space of garment
designs we have developed a sketch-based search application.
With our application users sketch the shape of a panel, and specify
a target panel name. Figure 11 (left) shows two examples of panels
sketched by a user. Our search algorithm first retrieves all the panels that match the target panel name and then uses the shape context
algorithm of Belongie et al. [2001] to rank each panel by similarity
to the sketch. Each retrieved panel also provides a link back to thepattern it belongs to in the form of a pattern number. As shown in
Figure 11 (right) users can easily find all the patterns that contain aparticular style of Sleeve or Front panel. Inspecting the corresponding patterns and 3D drapes allows users to see how similarly shaped
panels can affect the look of different garments.

9306

7951

6046

Sleeve of 9306

6047

6010

Front, Back, Collar of 6007

SleeveFigure 10: Hybrid results. (top) A user interpolates between two pairs of dresses, first going from 9306 to 7951 and then from 7951 to 6047.
(bottom) A user only interpolates the Sleeve panel of 6046 and the Collar, Front and Back panels of 6010.

6009

7951

6061

9306

Front

Acknowledgements: We thank Amy Pavel and Steve Rubin for helping us pre7979

Sketched Panel

6052

6046

6060

Most Similar Panels

Figure 11: (left) A user sketches a Sleeve (top) and a Front panel(bottom). (right) After specifying target panel name, our system retrieves other panels that match the target name ranks them by similarity to the sketch. The number below each retrieved panel indicated the pattern it belongs to.

9of corresponding 3D physical drapes another interesting avenue of
future exploration. With a large database of example drapes, precomputed drape shapes will allow beginning users to quickly mix
and match constituent pattern parts with instant feedback.

Conclusion and Future Workpare this work and lending a hand when we needed it most. Without their support, thiswork would not have come together. We thank Pei-Lun Hsieh for his help with the interactive simulator. The research on the interactive simulator was supported in part by
NSF grants IIS-1217904, CMMI-1129917, IIS-1117257, and CCF-0643268, as well as
by generous gifts from Adobe, Autodesk, Intel, mental images, NVIDIA, Side Effects
Software, The Walt Disney Company, and Weta Digital.

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