Textiles
Intelligence
Press Release
January 2024

For immediate release

Barriers to recycling threaten global market for elastane (spandex)
and spur innovation in alternative stretch fibres
Elastane (spandex) fibres face criticism because of the barrier they pose to the recycling of textile waste,
and this criticism is spurring manufacturers to explore alternatives to elastane which are more easily
recyclable, according to “Stretch fibres: expanding horizons beyond elastane”—a 34-page report fromthe global business information company Textiles Intelligence. If a breakthrough is made in this field,
the global market for elastane could encounter considerable disruption.
Elastane fibres offer unparalleled levels of comfort and stretch in textiles and clothing applications and,as a result, they dominate the global market for stretch fibres. In the years since their development,
elastane fibres have established a role as a key component in the manufacture of athleisure apparel,
compression garments, hosiery, shapewear, sportswear, underwear and workwear. In other applications,elastane fibres are key in the manufacture of medical textiles, including bandages and diapers.
However, there are concerns that textile and clothing products made from blends containing elastanefibres are difficult to recycle at the ends of their useful lives. Generally, the percentages of elastanefibres in garments are small, but just 1% of elastane fibres in an otherwise all-cotton T-shirt is sufficientfor the garment to be rejected at a recycling sorting plant.
As a result, it is critical that elastane fibres are removed from a garment in order to facilitate effective
textile waste recycling at the end of the garment’s useful life. But removal is complicated by the factthat existing solvents for separating elastane fibres from other fibres are toxic and hazardous in theenvironment. Such solvents include dimethylformamide (DMF) and dimethylacetamide (DMA).
The difficulties of recycling textiles and clothing containing elastane fibres are compounded bymounting evidence that the fibres contribute to microfibre pollution. Reportedly, fabrics containing
elastane fibres tend to shed more microfibres than fabrics containing other fibres. Also, the amounts ofmicrofibres released from such fabrics as a result of domestic laundering has been found to beparticularly alarming.
In response to concerns associated with elastane fibres, manufacturers are exploring alternatives toelastane which are more compatible with existing recycling technologies and are less likely to cause
microfibre pollution.
Such alternatives include stretch fibres which are made using bio-based materials. For example,Covation Biomaterials is producing a stretch fibre called Sorona which is made using propane-1,3-diol(PDO) derived from glucose obtained from corn while Fulgar is producing a stretch fibre called Evowhich is made using a biopolymer derived from the oil of castor beans.
Looking ahead, it is likely that further advancements in the development of alternative stretch fibres
will pose a risk to the global market for elastane—and they could cause considerable disruption.

In order to secure the future of the global market for elastane, research and investment will be pivotal.
In particular, innovation in technologies for reducing microfibre shedding from fabrics which containelastane fibres will be key, and the development of environmentally sustainable methods for separating
elastane from textiles will prove to be critical.
Ends.
“Stretch fibres: expanding horizons beyond elastane” is available for purchase from the global
business information company Textiles Intelligence and costs £255 (UK), Euro470 (Europe, Middle
East or Africa) or US$615 (Americas or Asia Pacific). For further information or to purchase thisreport, visit https://bit.ly/3NowXEH or email us on subscriptions@textilesintelligence.com
The report is also available in Issue No 79 of Performance Apparel Markets. Other reports publishedin this issue include: “Fast track: alternative sustainable materials for performance apparel highlighted
at Performance Days”; “Performance apparel markets: product developments and innovations,December 2023”; “Profile of Sheico Group: a leader in global markets for knitted performancematerials and sportswear”; and “Performance apparel markets: business update, December 2023”.
Performance Apparel Markets is published four times a year by Textiles Intelligence. Each issue
provides an independent and worldwide perspective on the performance apparel industry.
A year’s printed subscription to Performance Apparel Markets costs £1,090 (UK), Euro1,895 (Europe,Middle East or Africa) or US$2,390 (Americas or Asia Pacific). An electronic supplement is alsoavailable; please email us on subscriptions@textilesintelligence.com for details. Single issues andmulti-report packages are available on request. To download a sample issue of Performance Apparel
Markets, visit https://bit.ly/3TSjAAV or email us on subscriptions@textilesintelligence.com
For further information about all Textiles Intelligence publications, please visit
www.textilesintelligence.com
Contact:
Emily Burke, senior editor
emily.burke@textilesintelligence.com
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