ASIAN ALPINE E-NEWSIssue No 90. June 2021

Contents
Spanish mountaineer, Sergi Ricart Ibars’s energetic journeys
to three continents - Peru, Greenland and Tajikistan
1. Climbing Routes
2. Expeditions

1Page 2 ~ 8Page 9 ~ 28Sergi Recart Ibars-Tajikistan, Peru and Greenland

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

1

Sergi Expedition: Greenland, Peru, Tajikistan
GREENLAND:• Two trips, in the winters of 2015 and 2016, in which I was working inIlulissat (West Greenland) as a mountain guide and operationdesigner.
• All the walls where I opened new routes are located within a maximum

radius of 5 km from the town, with more or less easy access by foot orsnowmobile, in the neighborhoods of the mighty Kangia Icefiord(UNESCO Heritage).
• The new routes, where opened either alone, with friends (Pablo Rosagro,SP; Ronny Poulsen, GL; Maria, DK; Jakob Schytz, DK; Thomas Olufson,DK) or clients (Lea Poulsen, DK; Anne Lynggaard, DK).

Soloing at Qaqqarsuattat - "Petjades de Jade"1

2

Soloing with Pablo Rosagro at Qaqqasuattat - "Más vale musgo que escarcha"

Summiting Amitsorsuup Qaqqaaq - "Snowden"

2

3Situation mapPERÚTogether with my friend and UIMLA guide Pablo Rosagro, we installed our CB inthe Tembladera lake (access from Canchayllo), at 4480m, at the beginning ofMay 2019.
- On May 9th we ascend the Tukumach'ay peak (aka Tatatunsu, or Runshu).
The height of the IGN maps gives you 5357m. That day we forgot to make awaypoint on the summit with GPS, but both our altimeters gave 5333m and5334m.
3

4We believe that ours is the fourth ascension, after the three main edges O, S,and ESE have been already climbed(see: http://montanasperuanas.org/N55_Runshu1.html).
The new direct route of the SO face, named "Open Arms" is 600m long, 300m
high from the base of the glacier, with a global difficulty of AD-, with maximum
slopes of 55º. The name honors the rescue boat of the "Proactiva Open Arms"
organization, dedicated to saving the lives of migrants who try to reach Europe
across the Mediterranean and who very often die at sea.
Descent declimbing the same route.
Total schedule: 12-13h4

556- The second ascent was on May 18th to Nevado Tunshu Central. The heightdata collected in the literature are inconsistent (5565m) with our measurements(5679m according to GPS, with precision of 4m, and 5645 according to thealtimeter). The Google Earth and Fatmap applications give us heights close to5600m. The height of 5565 corresponds more to that obtained by G.Fonck andB.Pinto in 2014, which measured 5520 for the southern summit, clearly lower.
Our route crosses an aesthetic goulotte of the SO face, to the right of the"Chinita" route, opened by B.Pinto and R.Morales in (although I think theywrongly describe it as an SE face when it was actually SSO) .
Ours is probably the fourth ascent to the mountain, after the two ascents of theGermans in 67 and that of Pinto and Morales in 2011(http://andesinfo.blogspot.com/2012/05/andes-peru-cordilleras-centralestunshu.html)
It was 4 and a half pitches to reach the SE ridge, and another 4 and a half tothe summit.
The route "Nómadas del Kangia" is 500m long, with a height difference ofabout 400m. The global difficulty is MD+, with sections of up to 90º and a shortsection of A1.
The descent was made by declimbing the ridge in assemblage, and in rappels
along the SO face.
Total timing: 24h6

77

88

9TADJIKISTAN
After a first trip in May 2018, where I crossed the Tajik Pamir alone by bicycle,
traveling about 1000 km between Khorog (TJ) and Osh (KG) following thePamir Highway, I returned again in September of the same year with theintention of exploring some valleys and mountains seen on the first trip.
My habitual climbing partners did not have availability to leave at theend of summer, so I decided to leave alone to explore different placesof that region, especially the valleys that were around Khorog.
I arrived at the Pamir on the 7th of September, and after doing thelast purchases, left to the mountains, concretely to the valley of Rivak
Dara (SHUGNAN PAMIR), that starts at the village of Rivak, at some 25
km from Khorog. With the help of two porters, I established a BC at
3870 m, by the Rivak Kul lake, where I stayed alone for the next 10days.
910After ascending at the Peak 4820 -photo1- (37º38'21”N / 72º04'08”E)
for its SE ridge (1000 md+, F+), I experienced some days of badweather. Passed this episode, did an attempt to the Peak 5428 -photo
2- (37º33'12”N / 72º06'39”E), until 5225m, where I found a crevasse(route until there: 700md+, AD [55º]). Delicate descent. Starting pointat 5h of the BC.

Photo 1. Peak 4820

10

11

Photo 2. Peak 5428 - attempt-11

12

After the activity in the valley of Rivak Dara, and three days resting atKhorog, I hitchhiked to the village of Jelondy, at 3500m (about 130kmfrom Khorog), where I slept and hired two assistants for the followingday.
DAY 1: Move until the small village of Oktaliok, loading the backpacks
to a donkey, and trekking up all the valley of Oktaliok Dara to install a
BC at 4575 m (15km, 1200 md+),(37º39'02N/72º39'25”E). The
assistants left. Night temperatures around -10ºC/-12ºC

DAY 2: Explorations of the head of the valley and evaluations ofpossible objectives.

DAY 3: I left at 6,30 from BC in the SE direction. After 1 h, I steppedon the glacier that came from the circus. At 8,30 I reached the base of
the mountain at 4900m (2h; 3 km, 325 md+), I equipped myself,
crossed two crevasses, and started the ascent along the E face.
Initial stretch at 35º/40º until the foot of a couloir that crosses up thewall.
I progressed over some 25 cm of soft snow and loose rock, at 50º.
Around 5050m, I climbed a stepper section (65º/*III), that leftrightwards to eschew some exposed slabs.
I selfbelayed a section of 15m (IV+).
I continued up on sections of snow and mixed (50º/55º), trending tothe right until reaching the N ridge.
I flanked a very decomposed pinnacle, doing a pendulum rappel of10m, and ascending a section of 55º/II till reaching the ridge again.
50 last meters of ridge, with ice at 65º.
1213Top around 12.00h, at 5227 m.
Descent by the same itinerary, with 4 rappels of 25m and somedelicate declimbing.
Arrival at BC at 15,30h

Could not find proofs of any previous ascension.
Route named: “Dies que duraran anys” (Days that will last for years)(450m, D- [65º/IV+])

13

1414

1515

1616

1717

1818

19

DAY 4: Rest
DAY 5: Descent until Oktaliok and voyage until Khorog(Later on, I did a 4 days trekking through the Fann Mountains).
19

20

Mountain range of the Pamir (limits of Rushan Pamir)
Massif: Garmcharma / Gori Bogdigir
Valley: Oktaliok Dara
Mountain: named in shugni (pamiri language) as Rubtsak Koh (FoxPeak), after corroborating with the local shepherds that did not haveany name.
Coordinates: 37º37'32”N/ 72º39'54”EI received a Catalan FEEC Award "High level alpinist activities" for thenew summit and route.

20