SpecialArticle

Isonuma Happy Farmfor Cows & Community

By Mukesh Williams

Author Mukesh Williams

To run a dairy farm at the age of 69 with 90 cattle, sheep, goats,pigs, rabbits and poultry, and with just a five-person team, is no joke.
Masanori Isonuma is a second generation crop farmer-turned-dairy
farmer and believes that dairy farming is not just business but
community development and cattle well-being. He believes that anunderstanding must be created between the life of the bovines andhuman beings. If cattle are fed well and kept well they will provide
good quality milk. Isonuma not only provides milk to the communityof Hachioji but educates them about milk production, dairy products
and compost creation so that the cattle farm becomes a catalyst ofchange. The change will involve city dwellers in the life of milking
cattle and help them to appreciate the deep connection between
human life and nature. During 50 years he has become one with thebovine, understanding their desires, and they in turn understandhim. He is one of the few cattle farmers in Japan.

Creating a Happy Farm for Cows & Human BeingsIsonuma runs a unique business venture in Hachioji in westernTokyo that connects his diary farm in Kobikimachi Hachioji City withthe community, schools, fresh food companies, and researchgroups. The farm is 10 minutes from Yamada Station on the Keio
Takao Line. He endeavors to create a sustainable environment for
quality milk production for centuries to come. He can understandwhich calf is from which mother by the sound it makes. The motto of
his farm is to create a happy farm for both cows and human beings.

Photo: Author

He lives up to his motto. The farm provides milk which tastes goodand is also a source of enjoyment for the city. Isonuma Farm has
become a place where many people come to meet, share theirexperiences and learn new things. Isonuma believes that his farm
“lubricates society through the presence of cows”. A business whichis in harmony with society can be sustainable.
At a departmental store called Celeo Hachioji housed in Hachioji
railway station building, Isonuma has a farm outlet called Isonuma
Farms. Here he showcases and sells his products ranging fromcheese, cakes and ice-creams to yoghurt, cookies and milk. In theshop he sells a special kind of milk in glass containers called milk noogon ritsu or “Golden Harmony of Milk” which is a blend of raw milkwith a sweet rich flavor. The blend is heated to 65 degrees Fahrenheit
for 30 minutes to keep its original flavor.
He believes that showcasing local and regional products can help
sustain his business and invigorate the local farmer’s economy. Bothat the shop and at the farm he runs a scheme for people to own acow. It is possible for customers to buy a cow which will be takencare of at the farm and its produce transferred to the owner. This isan excellent method of connecting individuals with the farm and thecow. Isonuma explains, “The idea of this ownership is that we willseek people who would like to name our cows after birth and getinvolved in the cow’s entire life, including milking, dairy farming,
cheese making and so on. I believe the owners would get fun andenjoyment in taking care of a living animal indirectly. What we aretrying to do now is to establish a new system of ownership. It is asystem to ask people who are interested to donate some money tobuy a calf.”
Getting involved with the growth of a calf also creates a sense ofbonding and an understanding of how animals live, breed andproduce milk.

History of Isonuma Dairy Farm

Masanori Isonuma

https://www.jef.or.jp/journal/

Isonuma dairy farm was started on farming land by Isonuma’s
father with just one cow about seven decades ago. The farm isspread over two hectares of farming land of which one hectare isused as open grassland and one hectare as cow pens, manurecreation, pig farm, sheep farm, goat farm, poultry farm and factory
to manufacture cheese, yoghurt and pasteurize milk. He is apologeticthat the area is not so big: “As for grazing, we keep calves andmilking cows outside on the grassland. Milking cows are kept in cow
pens. There are 45 milking cows. Including calves and cattle we haveJapan SPOTLIGHT • May / June 2022

41

Photo: Author

Children’s class

90 in total.” All the cows and their calves look healthy and happy.
During the day they are munching on fodder enriched with vegetable
leftovers and fruit peels all the time.
The idea of expanding the farming business in the 1950s was quite
new. Even now it is new. The foresight that his father had has worked
well for both his son and the community at large. Isonuma has aninteresting story to tell in this regard. “When I was born my father
started the farm. After 10 years we had 10 cows. When I started thebusiness at the age of 20 we had 20 cows and in 1989 when I was
40 years old we had 40 cows. What a coincidence!” The connection
between the cows and his own life is apparent. He plays with themand takes care of them when they are sick.

A Hard Schedule at the Farm
Isonuma creates a hard schedule for himself but enjoys it
nonetheless. He gets ready to milk cows at 6:00 a.m. and the milking
machines begin at 6:30 a.m. until 8:30 a.m. Cleaning of the cow pens
between 7:00 and 8:30 a.m. and checking of the quality of milk at
9:00 a.m. From 9:00 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. calves are fed. Washing ofmilking machines and the milking room takes place until 11:00 a.m.
Obviously two more persons help him in the overlapping time. At
11:00 a.m. he begins making fertilizer from cow dung. At 12 o’clock
the morning session comes to an end. At 2:00 p.m. the compost
delivery truck comes. Between 1:00 p.m. and 3:00 p.m. the coffee
dust pickup comes. At 4:00 p.m. calves are fed. At 5:00 p.m. second
milking begins and ends at 8:30 p.m. Clean up takes place at 9:00
p.m. He has a long day. He also manages veterinarian care, calf
management, fieldwork and entertaining guests after the morning
shift and conducts classes. Obviously it is not easy to run the farmwith just five persons. Also the profit is not so high. So it becomesdifficult to pay the management and invest in new machinery and42 Japan SPOTLIGHT • May / June 2022

products.
Isonuma explains, “There were many things difficult for me inrunning the farm. First of all, five of us manage the farm. It is quitedifficult. As this is work with a very small amount of profit, it is toughto get an investment. Returning the investment is also difficult. At thefarm we have a factory which produces yoghurt. Trying to be in thesixth sector of industrialization, namely processing and distribution,
has not been easy. We made our own brand of products. Our
customers purchase our products. The profit we get from it supports
our management activities. This diversification is successful only
when products are sold, otherwise it is not going to help themanagement.”
Over decades, international competition and globalization havebrought down agricultural production in Japan. To increase domesticproduction, the government encourages the sixth industrialization
which promotes domestic agriculture. But still many cattle farmers
like Isonuma feel the going is tough. Like most dairy farms in Japan,
Isonuma’s is a family-run business. He feels that a labor shortageand investment are two big problems in dairy farming. How long hewill be able to work with this energy is anybody’s guess. Isonuma
has few days off, perhaps one or two days in a month. The Japan
Dairy Council estimates that an average dairy farmers get 17.7 days
off in a year. Also they work long hours from 6 in the morning to 9 atnight. Knowing that family-owned farming comes to an end due toold age, sickness and absence of a successor, Isonuma wants tocreate a community succession.

Using Social Network Services to Promote
Business
Isonuma uses social network services effectively to conduct bothbusiness and social services. He uses Facebook, Instagram, Twitterand a website to regularly post photographs of cows getting milked,
school children attending classes on cow education, milking cows
and lessons on cheese making. He also posts write-upsaccompanied by photographs. He has the following information
printed on his visiting card: “Happy farm for both cow and people!
Animal Welfare! Isonuma Milk Farm Since 1994 CEO Masanori
Isonuma”. The SNS is used to inform people of upcoming events.
Occasionally he has a flea market of farm goods and produce
manufactured on the farm which is also advertized through SNS.
Isonuma says: “I think it is important to spread the pleasure of dairy
farming so I update information about the farm and farming on adaily basis on Facebook.” The visiting card tells the story andphilosophy of his life.

Open Community Farm
Isonuma Farm is an open community farm symbolically held intrust for the community. It uses sustainable practices for feeding,milking and sheltering animals. Isonuma also trains future farmers,
especially the young, who do not know much about how cows live or
how dairy products are manufactured. He also has many farm
programs to educate adults on the ways milking is done and dairy
produced. Isonuma believes that connecting people to the milk they
consume is the best way to safeguard the future of milk production.
He has devised many programs and events to promote cow farmingfrom cowboy-cowgirl school lectures, trial milking classes, dietaryeducation, fresh cheese trial classes to pizza trial classes, camping at
the farm, working in rice fields and experiencing wheat fields.
Isonuma tells us, “We keep our farm open to people so that anyone
can come anytime if they wish to. We have an introductory viewing
lesson of the farm for elementary school students and university
students. We also provide training for young people with cowsthrough a day’s experience. So the idea of an open community is tocreate a place in the city which functions as an open access area forall.” Isonuma believes that business is done through people’s
happiness, not their exploitation.
The raging pandemic in Tokyo and the emergency measures
imposed by the government have not dampened Isonuma’s spirits.
He conducts his business within the rules of the measures.
Maintaining social distancing, Isonuma conducts classes on milk andcheese production with full infection control measures. The bodytemperature of participants and workers is measured, their hands
disinfected and they must wear face masks.
The Internet has given added value to his business and farming
philosophy. Isonuma Milk Farm Online Shop sells many farm
products as well as conducting classes which can be booked online.
A one-hour class for milking cows and tasting milk costs 700 yen,while a one-hour class to make butter from fresh cream costs 1,000yen. In the butter-making class students are taught how to shake abottle of fresh cream to make butter. Usually three to four persons
share one bottle of fresh cream.
Isonuma tells us: “I am a part of dairy farming education forelementary to high school students. I want to let them know how
dairy products are made and how milk is produced and stored. My
aim is to let students know the life of animals and their connection tohuman beings. Dairy products are the only food that does notdeprive animals of life. So by participating in this educational
process my intention is for students to get interested in farms, cows
and our products. Since we are a dairy farm in Tokyo I believe that it
is our duty or mission to let students know about this process ofdairy farming in their precincts. We also provide dairy productmaking experience from time to time, including how to make butter,cheese or pizzas.”
There is a lot of passion in his voice when Isonuma explains about
his farm and the activities conducted on it for the community. “Thereis hardly any place in Japan to learn about dairy farming today even
if one wishes to. We welcome people for milking on Sundays so weextend that one-day experience to one year at school. Once in amonth or perhaps more children come to the farm and experiencemaking milk products. As of now there are five to six children joining
our classes. They come when they want to as nowadays children arevery busy.” Isonuma accommodates school children on his farmaccording to their school schedule.

Health of Cows, Milk Extraction & Recycling Food
Waste
Isonuma keeps different varieties of cows on his farm to ensurethat he gets the right kind of milk for creating a good blend and in
producing other dairy products like cheese and yoghurt. At present
Isonuma has six different varieties of cows – Holstein Friesian, New

Photo: Author

Isonuma Farm Counter

Photo: Author

Cows eating cabbage

Japan SPOTLIGHT • May / June 202243

Jersey, Brown Swiss, Ayrshire, Gandy and Milking Shorthorn. TheHolstein cows are the most common variety at the farm and also inJapan. About 99% of dairy cows in Japan are Holstein. They arecalled Holstein as they come from the Holstein region of Germany.
Some are also imported from The Netherlands. Their udders arelarge; their milk yield is high. They have a gentle temper and thrive incold climates. New Jersey cows have thick milk as the fat content ishigher. Premium yoghurt is made from such milk. Its thick cream islike clotted cheese. They are the second most popular cows at thefarm and also in Japan. They come from Jersey in the Channel
Islands. They are not as large as Holsteins and are light brown incolor. Then there are the Brown Swiss from Switzerland and theirmilk is used for making cheese. He often mixes milk from six cow
breeds at the farm to give a wholesome quality to the milk.
Isonuma also sells Tokyo gyunyu (milk) from the Kyodo Gyunyu
Kyokai to support the milk cooperative. It is sold in a black and white
tetra pack and has no strong smell to it. Isonuma is also supporting
the Glaming Campaign of Nakanishi Farm. “Glaming” means
glamorous and camping. The camping in the open gives a glamor to
the animals and the camping. The process of milk extraction is
directly connected to the process of pasteurization and the health of
the animals. The production of milk per day is about 1,000 liters outof which 90% is sold. Untreated milk is kept in a cool tank at 4°C andevery day a tanker comes to pick it up after checking its quality. Thefarm has a pump which digitally checks the amount of milk that is
extracted from each cow daily. They also create a “positive list”
which is the basis for providing safe milk. The checklist also includes
things such as “does not include milk from a sick cow”.
At the farm there is a factory to make milk into yoghurt and ice
cream. Isonuma tells us that when they make yoghurt they “sterilize
the milk at 95°C for five minutes and add bacteria for milk toferment”. The farm also has a veterinary doctor who iscommissioned to take care of the health of the cows and attend tothem when they are sick. Isonuma says: “Yesterday he came over tocheck the cows. We usually ask him to come home but at the time
when he came a calf was getting born. The doctor would check if thecow goes into labor normally. On other occasions he would check if
cows have a fever or do not eat enough.”
The veterinary doctor keeps the farm healthy and free from
disease. Keeping the animals healthy and clean helps in maintaining
the normal rhythm of the farm. The animals are well-kept and theirwelfare and happiness is of prime concern. Isonuma Farm is amember of the Animal Welfare Food Community of Japan (AWFCJ).
Isonuma finds tasty fruit peels and other products for his cows tofeed on. He believes that “if cows feel happy they will produce tastymilk”. This is the goal of Isonuma Farm: to have a win-win
relationship between the cows and their customers.
Recycling waste food in the city is the primary goal of the farm.
This is the need of the hour and makes Isonuma Farm synchronize
44 Japan SPOTLIGHT • May / June 2022with the goals of the international community. Isonuma is concerned
about food wastage and does eco recycle at his farm. It means heuses waste material left by beer and anko (red bean paste)
manufacturers and vegetable packaging companies to feed his cows.
Malted barley, spent grain left over in the process of beer making,cabbage pieces left over during packaging and peels from azuki
beans are all mixed with cow feed to make it both nutritious andtasty. Isonuma has a contract with a factory in Higashi Murayama
which supplies him with pineapple peels that please the cows.
Isonuma says: “I watch the cows munch pineapple peels and it
makes them happy. They are also living beings.” The cows enjoy thetasty morsels and give good quality milk.
Making cow dung compost and supplying it to big farms andkitchen farms is perhaps the most sustainable way to run a dairy
farm. Making uchinosuke or ripe coffee peels and cow dung compost
is a sustainable business project at the farm. Cacao shells and coffee
bean shells are used for rapid aerobic fermentation. As the dung isfrequently turned the heat of fermentation also converts the coffee
peels into compost. It takes about four months to turn cow dung into
compost. The compost is then sent to local farmers, open field
vegetable producers, house cultivators, school farmers, and kitchen
garden owners for use. The compost is also used as waste material
for converting kitchen waste into compost and promoted by local
governments. The compost is packed in bags and transported bytrucks to different locations.
The history of harvesting cow milk by human beings is centuries
old. Isonuma is part of a gathering called milk man nen no kai – thatis, “the gathering for milk to last for 10,000 years”. Isonuma tells usthat the farm organizes information on milk chronologically. The
teachers try to re-create the connection between human beings andcows from ancient Sumerians using cow’s milk to make cheese andbutter around 3,000 BC. Today Mongolian, Indian and Turkish
families use processed milk extensively in their diet. He says, “We
study how whole milk was involved in human life in ancient times.
Milk of course was a precious thing in the past.”
Isonuma has a warm, gentle and curious personality. He embraces
everyone warmly. He talks to them politely and listens to themattentively. He is curious about everything connected to milk. He wasinquisitive to know about the use of ghee as medicine in Indian
Ayurveda. Isonuma is not just a businessman selling milk but avisionary and a transformer of society. He is creating a great future
for the community of Hachioji.

Professor Mukesh Williams is advisor to the South Asia Research Center at
Soka University, visiting faculty at Keio University, consultant/news analyst for
the BBC World Service, St. Stephen’s College Alumni representative andAcademic Exchange Programs coordinator in Japan.