Higg Product Module (PM)Methodology

Last Edited:
Contact:

June 15, 2021
joel@apparelcoalition.org

Table of Contents
PREFACE

3

SUSTAINABLE APPAREL COALITION OVERVIEW

4HIGG OVERVIEW

4

THE HIGG INDEX

4PRODUCT ASSESSMENT IN THE HIGG INDEX

5HIGG INDEX PRODUCT TOOLS6HIGG PRODUCT MODULE PURPOSE

7

METHODOLOGICAL OBJECTIVES

7

UNITS OF ANALYSIS

7

SYSTEM BOUNDARIES

10IMPACT RESULTS

13

SELECTION OF IMPACT CATEGORIES

13DATA MODELLING PRINCIPLES

13

BILL OF MATERIALS16FINISHED GOODS16FINISHED GOODS TAXONOMY16

FINISHED GOODS PROCESS DATA17DISPOSAL MODES

18

PREVIOUSLY USED PRODUCT18

PACKAGING

19

LOGISTICS

19

RETAIL

19

PRODUCT CARE

20

END OF USE

30

DURATION OF SERVICE

32

APPENDIX A: HIGG PM EXTERNAL REVIEW REPORTS AND RESPONSES

42

APPENDIX B: HIGG PRODUCT MODULE METHODOLOGY DEVELOPMENT PROCESS

65

2

PREFACE
The Higg Product Module (PM) offers users the ability to complete full life cycle product impact
assessments from cradle to grave; including materials production from the point of resource
extraction, finished product manufacturing, packaging, distribution and sale, product care, andproduct end of life.
This document is focused on the Higg PM, which utilizes Higg MSI materials, trims, andpackaging information to complete a product assessment. The Higg MSI has its own
methodology document which can be accessed at:https://howtohigg.org/higg-msi/higg-msi-methodology-document/
The release of the Higg PM is a significant milestone for the apparel, footwear, and home textiles
industries in calculating their product impacts using a consistent reporting framework. Purchased
Goods and Services is the largest category of Scope 3 greenhouse gas emissions for most brands
and retailers, and it’s very valuable to track this information to clearly understand how our coreindustries can reduce their environmental impacts.
The Higg Index tools are continuously evolving. We believe in releasing tools or features as soon
as they are ready to enable the industry to progressively integrate these within their sustainability
performance efforts. The Higg MSI and Higg PM will continue to receive data and methodology
updates over time to align with best-available understanding of impacts.

3

SUSTAINABLE APPAREL COALITION OVERVIEWThe Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) is the apparel, footwear and home textile industry’s
foremost alliance for sustainable production. It was born from a dynamic and unconventional
meeting of the minds when, in 2009, Walmart, America’s biggest retailer and Patagonia, one of
the world’s most progressive brands, came together with a radical mission: Collect peers andcompetitors from across the apparel, footwear and textile sector and together, develop a universal
approach to measuring sustainability performance.
Today the Coalition has more than 250 members, including brands, retailers, manufacturers,
academic institutions, and non-profit organizations across the global apparel, footwear, and home
textile supply chain. Its focus remains the same: develop a standardized supply chain
measurement tool for all industry participants to understand the environmental, social and labor
impacts of making and selling their products and services. By measuring sustainability
performance, the industry can address inefficiencies, resolve damaging practices, and achieve thetransparency that consumers increasingly demand. By joining forces in a Coalition, members canaddress the urgent, systemic challenges that are impossible to change alone. For a comprehensive
list of SAC Members visit http://www.apparelcoalition.org/members

HIGG OVERVIEW
Higg is an integrated platform for sustainability insights that helps consumer goods businesses
take responsibility for their entire impact – from materials to products, from factories to stores,
across energy, waste, water, and working conditions.
Higg’s software tools gather and organize primary data from each step of the value chain, so thatbusiness can understand – and improve – their impact.
Built on the leading framework for sustainability measurement, Higg is trusted by global brands,
retailers, and manufacturers to provide the comprehensive intelligence they need to accelerate
progress.
Spun out of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition in 2019 as a public-benefit technology company,
Higg is the exclusive licensee of the Higg Index, a suite of tools for the standardized
measurement of supply chain sustainability. To learn more about Higg visit www.higg.com.

THE HIGG INDEXThe Higg Index is a suite of tools for the standardized measurement of supply chain
sustainability. Developed collaboratively over the last decade by a coalition of brands, retailers,manufacturers, and other footwear, apparel and textile industry stakeholders through the4Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), the Higg Index enables accurate scoring and comparing ofa company or product’s overall sustainability performance and impact , across metrics such as
greenhouse gas emissions, waste, water usage, and working conditions.
With the Higg Index, SAC aims to accomplish the following goals:● Understand and quantify the sustainability impacts of apparel, footwear, and home textile
products● Reduce redundancy in measuring sustainability in apparel, footwear, and home textile
industries● Drive business value through reducing risk and uncovering improvement opportunities● Create a common means and language to communicate sustainability to stakeholders
The Higg Index suite of tools is identified below. More information on each of these tools isavailable at http://apparelcoalition.org/the-higg-index/
Figure 1. Higg Index Suite of Tools
Higg Brand & Retail
Tools

Higg Facility Tools

Higg Product Tools

Higg Higg Brand & Retail
Module (BRM)

Higg Facility Environmental
Module (Higg FEM)
Higg Facility Social/Labor
Module (Higg FSLM)

Higg Material Sustainability
Index (Higg MSI)
Higg Product Module (HiggPM)
MSI Contributor

PRODUCT ASSESSMENT IN THE HIGG INDEXThe Higg Product Tools are focused on the assessment of products, especially materials, apparel,
footwear, and home textiles. This is done using a life cycle assessment (LCA) approach. LCA isa technique to assess environmental impacts associated with a product within structured systemboundaries. Typically, the system boundaries are “cradle-to-grave” over the full product lifetime;from raw material extraction or production through material processing, product manufacture,
distribution, use, and end of use. An assessment using “cradle-to-gate” system boundaries canalso be used to assess impacts from raw material extraction or production through manufactureof a studied product.
Once the system boundaries are defined, LCAs consider the material and energy inputs to thatsystem and the environmental outputs of that system to calculate its various potential
environmental impacts (see Figure 2).
Designers and product development teams can use this process to help understand their products.
LCAs help avoid a narrow outlook on environmental concerns by:5

● Compiling an inventory of relevant energy and material inputs and environmental
releases● Evaluating the potential impacts associated with identified inputs and releases● Interpreting the results to help make a more informed decision
Figure 2. Simplified LCA Model Diagram

HIGG INDEX PRODUCT TOOLSThe Higg Index Product Tools include three tools that are tied to assessing the environmental
impacts of products using a life cycle assessment approach:● Higg Materials Sustainability Index (Higg MSI): a cradle-to-gate assessment tool formaterial, trim, and packaging manufacturing that uses life cycle impact assessment(LCIA) data and methodology to measure material impacts and engage product design
teams and the global value chain in environmental sustainability.
● Higg Product Module (Higg PM): a cradle-to-grave product assessment tool that uses
the life cycle impact assessment (LCIA) data and methodology to measure productmanufacturing footprints and the impacts-per-use of those same products. In addition tomeasuring impacts, the Higg PM provides credible and consistent results for external
communication to influence purchasing decisions and scale industry adoption of leading
practices.
● MSI Contributor: a tool where anyone may submit primary material production data
and/or life cycle analysis results to be reviewed and used to create new materials orprocesses in the Higg MSI and Higg PM.

6

HIGG PRODUCT MODULE PURPOSE
The focus of this document is the Higg Product Module. This section explains its purpose andSAC’s vision for its adoption.
The purpose of the Higg PM is to help companies produce more sustainable products. By
providing an industry-applicable consistent methodology for calculating a product’s footprint,
the Higg PM allows companies to assess the environmental impacts of products and drive themto reduce that impact.
The three main reasons that the Higg PM was created are:
1. To allow companies to assess impact and develop more sustainable products consistently
across the industry
2. To support industry in the Product Environmental Footprint (PEF)1 process in Europe
through submitting a meaningful (pre-aligned) approach
3. To create a basis for future consumer-facing communication of product environmental
impacts

METHODOLOGICAL OBJECTIVESThe Higg PM is an industry-applicable and consistent methodology for calculating a product’s
environmental footprint. It provides unique differentiating methodological characteristics
requested by SAC members:● It is expandable based on what users know, which improves the user experience.
● Consistent assumptions are applied where primary information isn’t readily known, withthe option to enter primary data to refine the results.
● Using a methodology on which the industry has aligned, the Higg PM improves thequality of LCA data and analysis for better decision making in product creation andinnovation.
● Use of this tool incentivizes an industry-collaborative effort in data collection to improvedata quality and the accuracy of Higg PM assessments.
● The Higg PM provides consistent and comparable environmental impact results.
● It provides a streamlined scoring approach based on robust data which can pave the wayfor end user/consumer communications.
● It aligns with and leverages relevant databases, such as GaBi, WALDB, and ecoinvent.
● The Higg Product Module covers the complete life cycle, including the use and end ofuse pathways for products.

UNITS OF ANALYSISThe Higg PM has the ability to assess several apparel, footwear, and home textile productcategories. An additional product category “Other” is also available in the tool to allow users
with products other than apparel, footwear, and home textiles to consistently assess their product1

Harmonized methodology for the calculation of the environmental footprint of products (including carbon). It has beenspearheaded by the European Commission and DG Environment.

7manufacturing footprint. This category is currently only available to measure the cradle-to-gate
product manufacturing impacts and will not include use phase and end of life assessment. The“Other” product category shares the same manufacturing process options as Apparel and Home
Textiles.
Table 1. Product Categories
Product Type
Product Category
Apparel Accessory
Dress
Hosiery
Underwear
Leggings/Tights
Baselayer
JacketApparelJersey (Uniform)
Pants
Shirt (Dress Shirt)
Skirt
Socks (pair)
Sweater
Swimsuit
T-ShirtBlanketComforter
Cushion
Duvet
Duvet Cover
Kitchen Towel
Lighting Shade (roman shades, lamp
shade)
Mat
Mattress Pad
NapkinHome Textiles
Pillow
Place Mat
Quilt
Rug
Sham
Sheet Set
Shower Curtain
SlipcoverTable Cloth
Towel
Upholstery
8Footwear

Other

Window Curtain
Boots - steel toe
Boots - non-steel toe
CleatsCourt (sport)
Dress Shoes/HeelOther Athletic Shoe
Sandals
Sneakers
Other

In life cycle assessment, a functional unit must be defined. A functional unit is a unit ofproduction or output against which category indicator results are normalized. It’s purpose is toprovide a clear and fair comparison of options. It describes the function/service provided, themagnitude of the function or service, the expected level of function or service quality, and theduration of the function or service.
The Higg PM calculates impacts for the following functional unit:● The function/service provided: “what”: Apparel, footwear, or home textile product.
Analysis shall be done at the level of the style number (or equivalent system fordesignating key product design distinctions—such as product code or product number),with no differentiation based on the color. Typical sample size for each product assessedshould be reflected and can consider products for infants, toddlers, youth, men’s,
women’s, unisex, and other.
● The magnitude of the function of service: “how much”: One apparel, home textile, orfootwear product as sold with packaging. Footwear and socks must be considered as apair.
● The expected level of quality: “how well”: Wear in good condition with appropriate use
for the given product.
● The lifetime/duration/reference using time of the product: “how long”: lifetime will
be calculated based on the “per use” impacts of the product.
The reference flow has been defined as “one apparel product, one home textile product, or one
pair of footwear or socks including packaging to be worn in good condition with appropriate use
for its intended duration of service and for one wear”. For footwear, since there are no productcare impacts, a full use is defined as one year of service, or one full use per lifetime.

9

SYSTEM BOUNDARIESThe Higg PM calculations include inputs (electricity, water, heat, auxiliaries, etc.), emissions toair, water, soil, and production waste for all relevant life cycle stages. The Higg PM boundaries
are shown in Figure 3 below.
Figure 3. Higg PM Boundaries

The first box on the left encompasses material production from raw material extraction or
production up to the point when the material or part is ready to be assembled into a product. The
raw materials, production stages, and processes included in the Materials section are consistent
with the Higg MSI. The production stages (e.g. Raw Material (including extraction/production,
Yarn Formation, Textile Formation, etc.) depend on the material category (e.g. Textiles,
Synthetic Leather, Leather, etc.).
Finished Goods considers processes that take place to assemble, finish, and package a final
product.

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Distribution considers the impacts associated with the transportation and sale of a product. It
considers energy and water inputs to distribution centers and retail stores. Impacts of logistics for
consumer returns are also within scope.
Product Care and End of Use focus on the average impacts associated with consumer care anddisposal. As Product Care and End of Use are past the point of sale, average impacts are usedsince precise impacts will depend on the individual consumer’s decisions. However, both
Product Care and End of Use can be influenced by product design decisions which can bequantified. This includes Duration of Service (Intrinsic Quality factors), Design for Repair, andfacilitating product take back programs. These additional parameters can be used to modify thestandardized care and end of use impact models.
Exclusions to the scope of the Higg PM include the following:● Product care for Footwear● Overhead impacts from Materials, Finished Goods, and brand offices.
● Consumer travel
Primary data is required to complete a Higg PM assessment. The primary data requirements arelisted below:
Table 2. Primary Data Requirements
SectionPrimary Data Required

Product andcompany
Information• Product Type• Product Category

Materials• Bill of Materials (at least 95% by weight of materials and their amounts in yield or
weight)• Material production processes (using Higg MSI)
• Materials and their amounts used in trims/components if a suitable proxy is unavailable.
• Packaging typically included for the assessed product in a retail store and when shipped toa consumer

Finished
Goods
Manufacturing
Product Care

• Tier 1 production processes (e.g cutting, sewing, assembly) and the magnitude at which
each process is used.

• Fabric Category (Material Type)As mentioned above, the ability for companies to collect primary data for information within theboundaries can vary greatly. As brands’ and manufacturers’ data collection systems andprocedures improve each year, primary data requirements may be expanded in future versions of
the Higg PM. Until then, the use of some standardized assumptions based on industry data is11

necessary to allow for scaled calculation of thousands of products. Table 3 lists whereassumptions occur where users have the option to override with primary data to calculate moreaccurate and representative results.
Table 3. Optional Primary Data Entries
SectionOptional Primary Data•

What is the percent of products sold through assessing company’s known distribution
channels; including:• The percent of products sold online• Rate of product returns (online sales)• Rate of product returns (in-store sales)• Restock rate (online sales)• Restock rate (in-store sales)•••

Material/trim production process loss rates and defect rates
Material shipping modes and distances to Tier 1 facility
Ability to enter materials by yield (using material densities, widths, and thicknesses (ifapplicable))
Material cutting efficiency (net use)
Packaging typically included for the assessed product in a retail store and when shipped toa consumer

Product andcompany
Information

Materials••

Finished Goods
Manufacturing

•
•
•
•
•

What waste disposal methods are used in Finished Goods Manufacturing facilities?
What is the excess finished goods rate for your organization?
What waste disposal methods are used for excess finished goods?
What is the sample rate for your organization?
What waste disposal methods are used for production samples?

Packaging••

What additional packaging is used when shipping this product for online sales?
What additional packaging is used when shipping this product for in-store sales?

•

What inbound transportation is used from the manufacturing location to the distribution
center(s)?
What outbound transportation is used from the distribution center(s) to retail locations?
What outbound transportation is used for direct to consumer sales (distribution center tocustomer)?

Logistics•••

Retail

••Product Care•

What is the average electricity, natural gas, and water used per unit of product at your
distribution center(s)?
What is the average electricity, natural gas, and water used per unit of product at yourretail location(s)?
For Alternate Care Scenario only – not for reporting Higg Product Module results• What is the average number of wears per wash for this product?
• How is the product laundered?
• How is the product dried?
• How is the product ironed?
What level of Duration of Service is achieved (see the “Duration of Service” section ofthis document for details)12•End of Use••

What level of Design for Repair is achieved? (see the “Design for Repair” section of thisdocument for details)
What percent of annual production is taken back for a re-wear program that has been usedagain in a new or refurbished product?
What percent of annual production is taken back and diverted to recycling (and not
re-routed to landfill or incineration)?

IMPACT RESULTS
The impact results for the Higg PM can be reported as either the absolute or “per use”
cradle-to-grave impacts of a product. The absolute impacts can be useful for Scope 3 greenhousegas impact reporting and covers Category 1 (Purchased goods and services), Category 4(Upstream transportation and distribution), Category 5 (Waste generated in operations), Category
9 (Downstream transportation and distribution), Category 11 (Use of sold products), andCategory 12 (End-of-life treatment of sold products). However, a limitation of the absolute
impacts for a product is that the longer it lasts, the higher its impacts. The “per use” impact takes
the absolute impacts of the product and divides it by the expected number of uses of the product.
This enables recognition of longer lasting products and is the expected reporting unit for the
Apparel and Footwear Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCR).

SELECTION OF IMPACT CATEGORIESThe impact categories for the Higg PM are the same as those in the Higg MSI. The selection ofthese impact categories is covered in the Higg MSI methodology document under the “Higg MSI
Assessment Framework – LCIA Methodology” section on page 9. In addition to the impact
categories, biogenic carbon and water consumption inventory metrics are provided in the Excel
Export (similar in both Higg MSI and Higg PM).
Additional information on the LCIA method criteria used when deciding which impact
categories to include in the Higg MSI and Higg PM is also covered in the Higg MSI
methodology document under “Appendix C: LCIA Method Criteria”. The Higg MSI
methodology document is available for download through the howtohigg.org website.

DATA MODELLING PRINCIPLESIn the Materials and Finished Goods sections, users are required to select the specific processes
that take place to manufacture the product and each of its materials. These processes comeprimarily from the GaBi database and the World Apparel Lifecycle Database (WALDB), withsupport from literature sources and stakeholders from the apparel, footwear, and home textile
supply chains (e.g. manufacturers and trade organizations). For consistency, GaBi is used as the
background database and for modeling of environmental impacts.
13

The initial process datasets used for the Higg Product Tools are based on best available data, andeach dataset was modeled to be as representative of the process as possible. The electricity gridmix used for modeling global processes is shown in Table 4 and is based on a weighted averageof major textile producing countries.2
Table 4. Electricity Mix
Country
China
EU 28
India
TurkeyBangladesh
VietnamUnited States
Republic of Korea
PakistanIndonesia

Percent
42%
28%
7%
5%
1%
2%
5%
5%
4%
2%

The type of data associated with each raw material and process in the Higg Product Tools
includes the following:
Inputs:● Energy● Water● Materials and chemicals● Agricultural Land
Outputs:● Product (intermediate output) and amount● Solid Waste● Emissions● Wastewater
The modeling principles used for the construction of this database are based on leadinginternational guidelines and standards, including:● Ecoinvent data quality guidelines (Weidema et al. 2013)3

2

https://www.wto.org/english/res_e/statis_e/its2014_e/its14_highlights2_e.pdf

3Weidema, B., C. Bauer, R. Hischier, C. Mutel, T. Nemecek, J. Reinhard, C. Vadenbo and G. Wernet (2013). Overview andmethodology. Data quality guideline for the ecoinvent database version 3. St. Gallen, Swiss Centre for Life Cycle Inventories.

14● ISO 140404/140445● PEF Guide6
Detailed information on each process in the database, including process descriptions, modelingapproaches, sources, and data quality ratings can be found in the Higg Product Tools by clicking
on individual raw materials and production processes.
The Higg Product Tool database is managed in GaBi by qualified Data Managers. DataManagers must obtain the following qualifications:● Knowledge of LCA and MSI methodology and taxonomy● Be trained in the use of GaBi
● Knowledge of and experience with relevant standards (e.g. ISO 14040, 14044, 14025)● Understanding of environmental impact category indicators● Experience conducting LCAs and peer reviews of LCAs
● Demonstrates understanding of/alignment with SAC and Materials Task Team vision,
goals and existing structure/operating norms● Strong communication skills, able to explain complex concepts in easy-to-understandterms, and must regularly update the applicant and the SAC on progress
As data is added or updated in the database, updates are published in the Higg Product Tools
twice a year. This keeps the database updated and relevant while ensuring users have the ability
to track changes to the system. Maintaining a separate LCA database allows for proprietary
information to be protected, for consistent modeling and selection of background data, and forflexibility as measurement, data, and impact methods evolve. All of the datasets for the Higg
Product Tools are assigned a data quality rating as explained in the Higg MSI Methodology
document (“Data quality criteria and scores” in Appendix B). SAC and Higg will continue toupdate the Higg Product Tools with new data submissions twice a year, including with processes
listed in our ongoing Data Wishlist, which can be accessed at the following URL:
https://msicontributor.higg.org/uploads/msicontributor.higg.org/sac_textpage_section_files/30/fil
e/Data_Wish_List_6-8-20_Public.pdf

4

ISO (2006a). Environmental management - Life cycle assessment - Principles and framework. Geneva, Switzerland,International Organization for Standardization. ISO 14040:2006.
5

ISO (2006b). Environmental management - Life cycle assessment – Requirements and guidelines. Geneva, Switzerland,International Organization for Standardization (ISO). ISO 14044:2006.
6

PEFCR Guidance Document, - Guidance for the Development of Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCRs),
version 6.3 (Brussels, 2017)15

BILL OF MATERIALS
To assess a product in the Higg PM, users shall create a bill of materials (BOM) for a specificproduct. This should be completed by pulling in the custom materials, trims, and/or components
present or created in the Higg MSI. Example materials from the Higg MSI can be used wheremore detailed information is unavailable. Once materials are entered into the BOM, users mustenter the gross amount of each material. For materials, the cutting efficiency (net use) needs to
be included. This is the net amount that is used in the product (out of the gross amount needed toconstruct the product). Default cutting efficiencies are provided and should be overridden withactual data when available. If the material arrives at assembly already formed into a part anddoes not need to be further cut, the net use is set to 100%. This is because the net use and defectrate are already factored in when creating the part as a Trim or Component in the Higg MSI.
Finally, users are also asked about the mode and distance of transportation of the final material to
the finished goods facility. A default of 500km by a large truck is provided but can be overridden
if the information is available.
Table 5. Default Cutting Efficiencies
Product Type
ApparelDefault Efficiency
0.8

Footwear
Home Textiles
Other

0.7
0.8
0.8

FINISHED GOODS
The Finished Goods section of the Higg PM works similar to the Higg MSI in that it has ataxonomy and is supported by process data. It requires selecting the assembly and final productfinishing processes used to create the product being assessed. The methodology allows the use of
the industry average process data to feed the Higg PM values. In the future, the SAC plans on
updating the methodology to include the use of primary data from the Higg FEM to modify
process impacts.

FINISHED GOODS TAXONOMY
The Finished Goods section of the Higg PM holds representative production data that is third
party provided, independently reviewed, and modeled to determine impacts. Unlike the Higg
MSI, it does not have a scoring framework to produce a single score; rather, midpoints are used
to understand the impacts that take place during finished goods processing. This database isorganized according to a very specific taxonomy determined by SAC members. This taxonomy
defines the following:16

● Product Type: Apparel, Home Textiles, Footwear, and Other● Production Stages: Product production steps for which various processes could be used.
A specific set of Production Stages is associated with each Product Type.
● Processes: Actual production processes used to assemble and finish the final product.
Sets of processes are associated with each Production Stage.
The Finished Goods’ Product Types and their respective Production Stages are:Apparel, Home Textiles, and Other Product Types:●●●●

Product Assembly
Garment Preparation and Coloration
Garment Printing
Garment Washing and Finishing

Footwear Product Type:●●●●

Pre-Assembly Footwear
Stockfitting
Assembly
Finishing – Footwear

FINISHED GOODS PROCESS DATA
Finished Goods process data is modelled in accordance with the information in the previous
Data Modelling Principles section. Guidance on selecting applicable processes and on
completing the amount that the process takes place is covered in the Higg Product Module How
to Higg Guide. Processes can have different unit types for the amount field, including:
●
●
●
●
●

Per centimeter
Per square centimeter
Per cycle
Per part
Per stitched edge

There are also some instances in which processes may be listed in more than one production
stage. For example, in the MSI, users can select “die cutting” for EVA foam. If it is selected
there, users must be careful to not double count impacts from die cutting by also selecting it inFootwear Pre-Assembly (unless an additional dye cutting step is performed, in which case it is
not double counting).
17

DISPOSAL MODES
The Higg PM also allows users to customize the disposal modes for different types of waste,
including manufacturing wastes, excess finished goods inventory, and sample products. Thesecan be customized by modifying the percentage of waste that goes to landfill or incineration
versus waste that is recycled or downcycled. Default values are provided for all of these fields,
including the amount of excess finished goods and samples.

PREVIOUSLY USED PRODUCTHigg PM users can also calculate the impacts of second-hand products if a product has
previously been owned by another end user (customer) and is re-sold rather than entering thewaste stream. Examples include product sold through Patagonia’s Worn-Wear7 program whichenables consumers to trade in their used Patagonia gear for credit to purchase previously usedproducts, or the Renewal Workshop8, which takes discarded apparel and textiles and turns theminto renewed apparel for purchase.
Assessing Previously Used Product functions similarly to assessing a new product, with key
differences below:● The incoming previously used product comes into the system “burden-free” at the pointof its disposal (similar application of the cut-off principle as recycled materials)● Transportation impacts associated with shipping the previously used product are still
included in the impacts● Users can specify any additional materials that are used during refurbishment using theBill of Materials screen; however, you can proceed to Finished Goods Manufacturing
without adding further materials.
● Finished Goods Manufacturing works in the same way for both Previously Used Productand new product assessment.
By including Previously Used Products into the Higg PM methodology, the tool enables users toalso assess used products in a consistent manner to new products. Information on how to assess a
Previously Used Product is covered in the Higg Product Module How to Higg guide.

78

https://wornwear.patagonia.com/
https://renewalworkshop.com/

18

PACKAGING
Packaging materials are available in the Higg MSI and can be entered into the Higg PM in asimilar way to the Bill of Materials section. Users can select from pre-populated example
packaging materials or customized packaging materials created using the Higg MSI. Dependingon user preference and organization of their Bill of Materials, packaging materials can be enteredin either the Bill of Materials section or the Packaging section. In the Packaging section, different
packaging can be specified for online versus in-store sales.

LOGISTICS
Transportation is included in Higg PM calculations in the four ways shown below:
Table 6. Transportation
Where transportation is included
Between material processing steps (up to whenthe material is final, not includingtransportation to assembly)
Transportation to finished goods
manufacturing (Tier 1) facility
Transportation from Tier 1 to distribution
center(s)Transportation from distribution center to theretail store(s)Transportation direct from distribution centerto customer

How transportation is included
Included in the Higg MSI material models. Default value of200km by large truck for each production stage. This isadjustable by the user in the Higg MSI if data is available.
Included in the Bill of Materials section. Default value of
500km by large truck for each material. This is adjustable by
the user if data is available.
Default value of 14850km by ocean freight, 1000km by large
truck, and 1750km by air freight. This assumption is from thedraft Apparel and Footwear PEFCR. This is adjustable by theuser if data is available.
Proxy of 1000km by large truck for each product. This isadjustable by the user if data is available.
Proxy of 1000km by large truck for each product. This isadjustable by the user if data is available.

Transportation for customer returns is also within the scope of the Higg PM assessment. The
percentage of product returned to store and by mail (entered under Company Information) is
multiplied by the impacts associated with transportation to the customer.

RETAILThe retail section of the Higg PM includes energy and water inputs of distribution centers andretail stores. The distribution and retail impacts are typically small and default values areprovided. Users can update the default values with primary data if available. The default energy
and water per unit of product for distribution centers are 0.28 kWh of electricity, 0.215kWh ofnatural gas, and 0.3 liters of water. For retail stores the default energy and water per unit ofproduct are 1.944kWh, 0 kWh of natural gas, and 2.15 liters of water. The values were createdusing SAC member and expert data and represent the conservative end of the range. A global

19

electricity mix based on domestic consumption9 was used to represent the emission factors forretail locations. The global average AWARE water scarcity factor was applied to the water use.

PRODUCT CARE
Impacts associated with product care and end of use are difficult to measure because they are
dependent on the end user of the product (the consumer) after the point of sale. Since the Higg
PM is used by companies producing products, users will not be able to provide verifiable data on
how a specific product will be cared for and disposed of. Therefore, standardized care scenarios
based on product type and fiber category are required to be used.
The following tables contain the product care scenarios that are used to calculate use phase
impacts of apparel and home textile products. Note that Higg PM users can separately adjust the
product care methods and frequency for internal analysis (“Alternate Care”). The product carescenarios are based on consumer survey data that was collected for studies by Cotton
Incorporated10 and IWTO11. Fiber experts from Cotton Incorporated, IWTO, Toray, and
INVISTA were further consulted to confirm differentiations between fibers. The final scenarios
were reviewed and approved by the Use and End of Use task team of SAC member experts.
These scenarios are expected to be updated as further industry research is conducted.
The fiber differentiation is captured through a “Fabric Category” that users can select from. The
table below explains when each should be applied.
Table 7. Fabric Categories
FabricCategory

CottonSynthetic

Applicable to:Any product made from majority: cotton and othercellulosic fibers (linen, hemp, viscose, lyocell, etc.)
OR
Any product with no majority listed fiber (“typical
average care”
Any product made from majority: virgin, recycled, or
biobased plastic polymer including polyester, nylon,
polypropylene, acrylic, etc.

Wool

Any product made from majority: animal wool, including
sheep, alpaca, mohair, etc.

Delicate

Any product requiring delicate care instructions

9

https://yearbook.enerdata.net/electricity/electricity-domestic-consumption-data.html
LCA Update of Cotton Fiber and Fabric Life Cycle Inventory. 2016.
https://cottontoday.cottoninc.com/lca-2016/11
Laitala, Klepp, and Henry. Does Use Matter? Comparison of Environmental Impacts of Clothing Based on
Fiber Type. 2018. http://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/10/7/2524
10

20

Table 8. Product Care Scenarios
Product
Category

ApparelAccessories

FabricCategory

Standard consumer
care practiceStandard use frequency
between washes

Lifetime Uses

CottonMachine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

20

100

Synthetic

Machine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

20

100

Wool

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

20

100

Delicate

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

20

100

CottonMachine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

4.2

69.5

Synthetic

Machine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

4.2

69.5

Wool

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

4.2

69.5

Delicate

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

4.2

69.5

1

52.3

1

52.3

1

59.8

Dress

Synthetic
Hosiery
Delicate
CottonSynthetic

Machine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

1

59.8

Wool

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

1

59.8

Delicate

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

1

59.8

CottonMachine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry

4.2

69.5

Synthetic

Machine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

4.2

69.5

Wool

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

4.2

69.5

Delicate

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

4.2

69.5

1.5

29.8

1

29.8

Underwear

Leggings /Tights

CottonBaselayer

Machine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

Synthetic

Machine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

21

Wool

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

3

29.8

Delicate

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

1

29.8

CottonMachine Wash Warm

20

100

20

100

Line/Air Dry
JacketJersey(Uniform)

Synthetic

Line/Air Dry

Wool

Dry Clean

20

100

Delicate

Dry Clean

20

100

CottonMachine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

1

26

Synthetic

Machine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

1

12

Delicate

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

1

12

CottonMachine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

4.2

66

Synthetic

Machine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

4.2

69.5

Wool

Dry Clean

4.2

69.5

Delicate

Dry Clean

4.2

69.5

CottonMachine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

2.3

41

Synthetic

Machine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

2.3

38.5

Wool

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

2.3

38.5

Delicate

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

2.3

38.5

CottonMachine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

4.2

69.5

Synthetic

Machine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

4.2

69.5

Wool

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

4.2

69.5

Delicate

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

4.2

69.5

Pants

Shirts(Dress
Shirt)

Machine Wash Cool

Skirt

22

CottonMachine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

1.5

52.3

Synthetic

Machine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

1.5

52.3

Wool

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

2.5

52.3

Delicate

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

1.5

52.3

CottonMachine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

5

81.4

Synthetic

Machine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

5

81.4

Wool

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

10

92.4

Delicate

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

4

81.4

1

29.8

1

29.8

1

29.8

Socks

Sweater

CottonSwimsuit

Synthetic
Delicate

Hand Wash
Line/Air Dry
Hand Wash
Line/Air Dry
Hand Wash
Line/Air Dry

CottonMachine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

1.5

46

Synthetic

Machine Wash Warm,
Line/Air Dry

2

38.9

Wool

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

3

43.3

Delicate

Machine Wash Cool,
Line/Air Dry

2

38.9

CottonNo WashInfinite (0 washes)

Synthetic

No WashInfinite (0 washes)

T-Shirt

Pillow

Lighting
shade (e.g.
roman

2000
Wool

No WashInfinite (0 washes)

Delicate

No WashInfinite (0 washes)

CottonNo WashInfinite (0 washes)

2000

23

shades,
lamp shade)

Synthetic

No WashInfinite (0 washes)

Wool

No WashInfinite (0 washes)

Delicate

No WashInfinite (0 washes)

CottonNo WashInfinite (0 washes)

Synthetic

No WashInfinite (0 washes)

Upholstery

Duvet

2000
Wool

No WashInfinite (0 washes)

Delicate

No WashInfinite (0 washes)

CottonNo WashInfinite (0 washes)

Synthetic

No WashInfinite (0 washes)

Wool

No WashInfinite (0 washes)

Delicate

No WashInfinite (0 washes)

CottonNo WashInfinite (0 washes)

Synthetic

No WashInfinite (0 washes)

Rug

2000

2000
Wool

No WashInfinite (0 washes)

Delicate

No WashInfinite (0 washes)

CottonNo WashInfinite (0 washes)

Synthetic

No WashInfinite (0 washes)

Cushion2000
Wool

No WashInfinite (0 washes)

Delicate

No WashInfinite (0 washes)24

CottonSynthetic
Duvet
Cover
Wool
Delicate
CottonComforter

Synthetic

Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Cool
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Cool
Line/Air Dry

100
100
2000
100
100
100
100

Wool

Dry Clean

100

Delicate

Dry Clean

100

CottonSynthetic
Quilt

Machine Wash Warm

Wool
Delicate
CottonSynthetic

Sham
Wool
Delicate
CottonSynthetic
Slip Cover
Wool
Delicate

Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Cool
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Cool
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Cool
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry

2000

100
100
100

2000

100
100
100
2000
100
100
100
100
2000
100
100

25

CottonSynthetic
Window
Curtain
Wool
Delicate
CottonShowerCurtain

Synthetic

Delicate

CottonSynthetic
Mattress
Pad
Wool
Delicate
CottonSynthetic
Blanket
Wool
Delicate
CottonSynthetic
Mat
Wool
Delicate

Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Cool
Line/Air Dry
Hand Wash
Line/Air Dry
Hand Wash
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Cool
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Cool
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Cool
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Cool
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Cool
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry

100
100
2000
100
100
100
100

2000

100

60
60
1000
60
60
60
60
1000
60
60
60
60
1000
60
60

26

CottonSynthetic
Table Cloth
Wool
Delicate
CottonSynthetic
Towel
Wool
Delicate
CottonSynthetic
Sheet
Wool
Delicate
CottonSynthetic
KitchenTowel
Wool
Delicate
CottonNapkinSynthetic
Wool

Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Cool
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Cool
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Cool
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Cool
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Cool
Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry

10
10
1000
10
10
4
4
1000
4
4
10
10
1000
10
10
5
5
1000
5
5
3
5

1000

5

27

DelicatePlace Mat

CottonMachine Wash Warm5

Line/Air Dry
Machine Wash Warm
Line/Air Dry

10

1000

Footwear does not have Product Care impacts in the Higg PM. According to brands'
recommendations, specific cleaning or care is not widely recommended. Therefore, the base casefor results calculations includes no shoe maintenance activities for the use phase. Also, use phaseparameters tested (i.e., washing in household washer and application of durable water repellent
spray) during the drafting of the non-leather footwear PEFCR had small effects on the results andare therefore out of scope for this assessment.
The specific washing, drying, and ironing impacts are calculated using the same global
electricity and water scarcity factors as the Retail impacts (global average domestic consumption
electricity mix and global AWARE factor). Data is based on the global consumer rather than aspecific manufacturer or machine.
Table 9. Machine Washing
Washing Scenarios
Washing temperature

Cold: 20C (68F) Warm: 40C (104F) Hot: 60C (140F)

Load

4 kg

Energy consumption for a normal
washing cycle (energy for washer
only, not heating water)

0.79 kWh/load

Energy for heating water

0 kWh
0 MJ NG

Water consumption

9 L/load

Water Use70 L/load

Quantity of wastewater

61 L/load

Powder detergent quantity andtype

0.020 kg detergent/kg clothes = 0.083 kg / avg load
Powder detergent

0.979 kWh5.129 MJ NG

1.957 kWh10.259 MJ NG

Table 10. Drying
Drying Scenarios
Drying Method

Air Dry

Load

4 kg

Machine Dry28

Energyconsumption for a0
normal drying
cycle

3.12 kWh/load

Table 11. Ironing – Average power for different iron settings
Maximum Ironing
Iron Setting
Average Power (W)Temperature
110C
1 point
1100
150C
2 points
1500
200C
3 points
2000
Average

Electricity(kWh/minute)
0.01830.025
0.033
0.0256

Dry cleaning is a washing technique using a solvent to remove stains. The most-used solvent isperchloroethylene. Because of the toxicity of this substance, new technologies (e.g. those basedon CO2) are being developed. The process impacts in the Higg PM include electricity for themachines, softener, and perchloroethylene as a solvent.
Table 12. Dry Cleaning
Condition Electricitys
per event(kWh/kgproduct)
Dry
Cleaning

0.3

Powderdetergentused perevent(kg/kgproduct)
0Softenerused per
event
(g/kg
product)

Solvent(perchloroethylene) used per event(g/kg product)

Water
used perevent(liters/kg
product)

Wastewaterproduced
per event(liters/kg
product)

22

15

--

--

The hand washing process describes washing a garment in the sink with water at low
temperatures (20-30°C), generally done for delicate clothing made from fibers like wool or silk.
The only inputs are soap and water, and the only output is wastewater.
Table 13. Hand Washing
Condition Electricitys
per event(kWh/kgproduct)
Hand
Washing0

Powderdetergentused perevent(kg/kgproduct)
0.0083Water
used perevent(liters/kg
product)

Water
consumed
per event(liters/kg
product)

Wastewaterproduced
per event(liters/kg
product)

23

2.2

20.8

29

END OF USE
Similarly to product care, the specific end of use pathway for a product is dependent on theindividual consumer and a standardized scenario is used based on global average consumer data.
At the end of its life, a product is assumed to be either recycled (including upcycling anddowncycling), landfilled, or incinerated. Composting was considered for inclusion but was
rejected as it currently makes up a negligible portion of the apparel and footwear waste stream.
Concerns were also raised around composting as a viable pathway for product end of life due tothe amount of chemicals and polymers applied to apparel and footwear products during
processing (i.e. regardless of fiber origin, apparel and footwear products are processed to thepoint where they are no longer part of the biological nutrient cycle but should be treated as partof the technical nutrient cycle). The breakdown of the standardized end of life pathway isdetailed below:
Table 14. End of Life Pathway
Condition
Percent of ProductEnd of Life
Recycling5%

Landfill

63.7%

Incineration

31.3%

Emissions Model
Burden free from point of collection(Recycling Cutoff)
Municipal Waste, Landfill, from Sphera
Municipal Waste, Incineration, from
SpheraHigg PM users can modify the end of use scenarios by implementing circularity strategies. These
include design for repair and product takeback programs. Standard intrinsic quality testing canalso be used to demonstrate the likelihood of a longer product lifetime, which is covered in the“Duration of Service” section of this document. The questions and modifiers available in the End
of Use section of the Higg PM are listed below:
Table 15. End of Use Modifiers
MindfulEoU
Types

Answer Options

RepairLonger
Lifetime
Re-wearRequirements for each answer
option

Methodology and Scoring• Level 1: design for repair• Level 2: Level 1 plus DIY repair These impact product longevity:
guides and/or list of repair services • Level 1: 1.05 lifetime multiplier• Level 2: 1.10 lifetime multiplier• Level 3: In what % of countries
where this product is sold do you • Level 3: 1.10 + (0.05*%
promote and facilitate repair
entered) lifetime multiplierservices?
• What % of your annual production
These impact product longevity:
volume is taken back for a re-wear• 1 + (0.15*% entered) lifetime
program that is actually re-worn
multiplier(and not re-routed to30

Diversion
fromRecycling
Landfill

landfill/incineration by yourcompany)?
• What % of your annual production
The percent entered by user isvolume is taken back that is
added to the global
actually recycled (and not
Recycled/Downcycled
re-routed to landfill/incineration
assumptions listed in Table 13.
by your company)?

Examples of Designing for Repair include:•
Include spare parts (buttons, threads, buckles)•
Include repair supplies (patches or glue)•
Design products for easy and quick trim/fastener replacement•
Design products that can be repaired through a brand repair program (for example,
Patagonia's Worn Wear program)
For re-wear, products collected through a take-back program do not need to be initially offeredby the company taking it back, but it does need to be re-offered to consumers through a re-wear
program.
Taking back product for recycling, upcycling, and downcycling improves the end of use pathway
by diverting an additional percent of product away from landfill. The products collected througha take-back program do not need to be offered by the company taking it back, but it does need tobe recycled/upcycled/downcycled. Products stored in a warehouse for potential recycling are notcounted towards this number until the recycling has occurred.

31

DURATION OF SERVICE
Duration of Service is the lifetime of the product with appropriate use for its intended function. It is difficult to measure because it isdependent on specific consumer use and disposal. Products that are able to last longer have the potential to reduce industry impacts
since fewer replacement products need to be purchased (and therefore, manufactured). The Higg PM leverages physical quality tests
and thresholds to add a Duration of Service Factor (DoS Factor), or lifetime multiplier, if quality requirements have been achieved.
The DoS Factor increases the lifetime uses of products, based on the standardized lifetimes shown in Table 8.
The SAC created a task team to investigate how to measure physical quality for duration of service in a consistent way. This work has
shown that companies use many of the same quality tests that are described by international standards such as ISO, AATCC, andATSM. The Higg PM builds upon these commonly accepted quality tests. If a product is to be used longer, it must have the ability tolast longer. Emotional and style measurements of longevity (such as brand attachment, product colors, etc.) are out of scope for the
Higg PM, but overall product trends are reflected in the default lifetime assumptions in the Higg PM functional units.
The Duration of Service section of the Higg PM considers material and full product tests for seven different types of products,
focusing on the physical attributes that can make a product’s service last longer. The number of tests for each product have been
narrowed to those associated with the most common product failure modes identified by SAC member experts. These have beenfurther refined by the Technical Secretariat for the Global Apparel and Footwear Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules(PEFCR), which is developing a similar approach for including product quality into the product lifetime. The tests and thresholds inthe Higg PM are not the final version of those being developed for the PEFCR, but were the most current versions at the time of the
Higg PM being built. Once a final proposal is developed for the PEFCR, the SAC plans to update the Duration of Service section of
the Higg PM.
There are seven product types included: waterproof breathable jackets, athletic shoes, athleisure (casual) shoes, knit products, denim
products, bed linens, and woven products. These products were chosen because they cover a large range of products and because they
were products where data was available. Achieving the tests and thresholds outlined in the tables below can improve Enabled Impact
per Use results; however, if the product assessed is not covered in this section, or if thresholds are not met, results do not get worse12.
12

The SAC method ensures that users who are beginning to collect data and understand their product impacts at scale can do so without negative reinforcement.
The PEFCR method proposes to include a negative modifier. Once the PEFCR approach is finalized, the SAC plans to adopt the outputs.

Pre-Qualification tests, Performance Tests, and Garment Integrity Tests are considered. Pre-Qualification tests must be achieved
before completing Performance Tests and Garment Integrity Tests. Pre-qualification tests are considered foundational quality
assurance tests that must be met by materials and parts. Performance tests are additional material tests. Garment integrity tests are fullgarment tests after simulated aging has been conducted on the product through laundering. It is meant to represent how well a productlasts with consumer use.
There are three different levels for each test. The Basic level is the easiest to achieve and awards 5 points per test. The Moderate level
awards 10 points per test. The Aspirational level is the most difficult level to achieve and awards 15 points per test. The percent ofpossible points achieved translate to a DoS Factor.
Product duration of service needs to consider all elements, but those elements can carry different levels of importance. Each test
included has an associated weighting, based on how likely it is to contribute to full product failure. Pre-Qualification tests do notreceive a weighting because they are a basic requirement. Performance tests have a combined weighting of 50%, while Garment
Integrity Tests have a combined weighting of 50%.
In all cases where wash tests in the following tables are used, care instructions for washing and drying shall be followed. In case oftumble drying, one tumble dry cycle shall be performed each cycle of 10 washes.
Table 16. Duration of Service Requirements for Waterproof Breathable Jackets
Duration of Service Test and Rating
Test Item

Test Standard% Weighting
per Test

N/A

5 points (basic)
10 points (moderate)
15 points (aspirational)
Basic material performance specifications standards are available and tested Pass, at least
including the following:Within ±3%

N/A

Grade ≥4

N/A

Grade ≥3 using grey scale for color change

N/A

Grade ≥4

Pre-Qualification (materials and parts)
Fabric Dimensional
Stability
Fabric Colorfastness

ISO 6330 with frequency of tumbling anddrying fixed at 10W + ( 10 wash, one dry)
ISO 105 X12 OR
AATCC 8 (to crocking)ISO 105 C06 (at 40 degrees) OR
AATCC 61, 2A (to laundering)
ISO 105-B02, 20h OR

Endurance Factors and Requirements

N/A

33

Fabric Lamination bonding
strength
Fabric Moisture Vapor
Transmission Rate
Initial Seam Waterproofness
Zipper Quality
Performance Test
(materials)
Fabric Tearing strength

Fabric Water Proofness
Fabric Water Repellency

AATCC 16, 20 AFU 13 (to light)
DIN 53530

N/A

≥5N

* ISO 11092** JIS L1099

N/A

Suter test (3psi 2 min.)
BS EN 16732 OR
ASTM D2062
Laundering: ISO 6330 4N tumble drylow
EN ISO 4674-1 B OR
ASTM D1424

N/A
N/A

U-Urban wear, A-Active wear, M-Mountaineering wear
Option1*, Ret: U: 13-20, A:6-13, M: ≤6
Option 2**, B1 & B2: U: ≥8000 & 5000, A: ≥12000 & 8000, M: ≥20000 & 10000.
No leaks
Selected zipper meets specification requirements.
Operability, Repeat Cycles, etc.
Options:
Options:
Options:
Cleaning cycles 10x
Cleaning cycles 30x
Cleaning cycles 60x
ISO:
ISO:
ISO:
< 100gsm ≥ 10N< 100gsm ≥ 11N< 100gsm ≥ 12N
100-120gsm ≥ 12N
100-120gsm ≥ 13N
100-120gsm ≥ 14N>120 gsm ≥ 15N>120 gsm ≥ 16.5N>120 gsm ≥ 18N
Test as received
Test as received
Test as received

ISO 811 OR
AATCC 127
ISO 4920 OR
AATCC 22

50%
10%

ATSM:
ATSM:
<0-70 gsm: ≥600g<0-70 gsm: ≥660g
71-120gsm: ≥800g
71-120gsm: ≥880g
121-200gsm: ≥1100g
121-200gsm: ≥1210g>200gsm: ≥1500g>200gsm: ≥1650g
Test as received
Test as received≥2.6m & <20% change from initial value

20%
20%

ISO: ≥4
AATCC: ≥80

ISO: ≥4
AATCC: ≥80

Garment Integrity Test
(whole garment after
aging process)Seam sealing taping
Coating/Lamination
degradation

Laundering: ISO 16322/6330(sprirality or angular variation) 4N
tumble dry low
Suter test (3psi 2 min.)Visual Exam (Comprehensive)

10%
20%

No leaking @ multiple curve, X-points.
No coating degradation no delamination

Trim Failure

Visual Exam (Comprehensive)20%

No component/trim failure (e.g. zipper, snaps)

13

50%

Cleaning cycles 10x

Cleaning cycles 30x

ATSM:<0-70 gsm: ≥720g
71-120gsm: ≥960g
121-200gsm: ≥1320g>200gsm: ≥1800g
Test as received

ISO: ≥3-4
AATCC: ≥70
Cleaning cycles 60x

AATC Fading Unit

34

Table 16. Duration of Service Requirements for Athletic Footwear
Test Item

Test Standard% Weighting of
Failure Mode

Product Integrity
Cracking

Delamination

Bonding strength

Whole Shoe Flex test – Visual
ISO 24266
30 degrees +/- 1 degrees
140 +/- 10 cycles per minute● 25% if finished uppermaterial not leather● 50% if finished uppermaterial leather

EN ISO 17708 [daN/cm] or[N/mm]

25%

Endurance Factors and Requirements
10 points 15 points 5 points - basic
moderate
aspirational
50,000 forefoot flex
60,000 forefoot flex
70,000 forefoot flex
cyclescyclescycles● No cracking of the midsole or outsole● No peeling or seam separation of the upper● No delamination between any component
3.5

5.75

8

Material level test
Outsole abrasion resistanceISO 20871:2018● 25% if finished uppermaterial not leather● 0% if finished uppermaterial leather

Determination of tear strength for uppermaterials
Martindale abrasion specific for fabrics

EN 13571 ISO 17696 (daN)

12.5%

5 daN

6.5 daN

8 daN

ISO 12947-2 [Cycles]

12.5%

3’000 cycles: coating
totally abrased

3’000 cycles: coating
partially abrased

3’000 cycles: coating
not abrased

If density ≥ 0.9 g/cm3, then ≤ 400 mm3 If density < 0.9 g/cm3 , then ≤200 mg35

Table 17. Duration of Service Requirements for Casual Footwear (Athleisure)
Endurance Factors and Requirements
Test Item

Test Standard% Weighting of Failure Mode

Product Integrity
Cracking

Delamination

Bonding strength

10 points 5 points - basic
moderate
30,000 forefoot flex
40,000 forefootcyclesflex cycles● No cracking of the midsole or outsole

15 points aspirational
50,000 forefoot flex
cyclesWhole Shoe Flex test –VisualISO 24266
30 degrees +/- 1 degrees
140 +/- 10 cycles per
minute● 50% if finished upper material
not leather● 100% if finished uppermaterial leather

EN ISO 17708 [daN/cm] or[N/mm]

25%

3.5

If density ≥ 0.9 g/cm3, then ≤ 400 mm3 If density < 0.9 g/cm3 , then ≤200 mg● No peeling or seam separation of the upper● No delamination between any component
5.75

8Material level test
Outsole abrasion resistanceISO 20871:2018

50% if finished upper material
not leather
0% if finished upper material
leather

Determination of tear strength forupper materials
Martindale abrasion specific forfabrics

EN 13571 ISO 17696 (daN)

12.5%

5 daN

6.5 daN

8 daN

ISO 12947-2 [Cycles]

12.5%

3’000 cycles: coating
totally abrased

3’000 cycles: coating
partially abrased

3’000 cycles: coating
not abrased36

Table 18. Duration of Service Requirements for Knit Products
Duration of Service Test and Rating
Test Item

Test Standard% Weighting
per test

Pre-Qualification (materials)
Fabric Dimensional
Stability

Fabric Colorfastness

Pilling ResistanceFabric Bursting

Wicking or otherfunction finishing (ifapplicable)

ISO 6330 4N with ISO 5077
wash/dry conditions based on care instructions, 1
wash. If tumble dry, use 10 wash / 1 dry
OR● AATCC Monograph M6, according to care labelAND
ISO 5077
OR● AATCC Monograph M6, according to care label
AND● AATCC 124
ISO 105 X12 OR
AATCC 8 (to crocking) wet rub
ISO 105 CO6 (at 40 degrees) OR
AATCC 61, 1A (to laundering)
ISO 105 E04 OR
AATCC 15 (to perspiration)
ISO 105-B02, 20 hours of light exposure OR
AATCC 16, Op3, 20 AFU (to light)
Performance Test (materials)
ISO 12945-1, ISO 12945-1:2000Textiles —Determinationof fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and topilling — Part 1: Pilling box method
ISO 13938-2 OR
ASTM D3786● ISO 6330 4N wash/dry conditions based on care
instructions. If tumble dry, use 10 wash / 1 dry
OR● AATCC Monograph M6, according to care label
AND

N/A
N/A

Endurance Factors and Requirements
5 points (basic)

10 points (moderate)

15 points (aspirational)

Basic material performance specifications standards are available and tested Pass, at least inc
following:
Skewness ±5%
Shrinkage/Elongation ±5%

N/A

Grade ≥3-4 using ISO / AATCC greyscale for color change

N/A

Grade >4 using ISO 105-A02 grey scale for color change / AATCC greyscale for color change

N/A

Grade >4 staining of multi-fiber using ISO 105-A02 grey scale for color change / AATCC greyscale
for color change
Grade ≥4 using ISO 105-A02 / AATCC blue scale for color change

N/A
50%
● 20%

● If there is afunctional
finish: 10%● If nofunctional
finish: 30%● If there is afunctional
finish: 20%

Grade 3

Grade 3-4

Grade 4<150gsm: 133 N
150-250gsm: 178 N>200gsm: 222 N<150gsm: 156 N
150-250gsm: 200 N>200gsm: 245 N<150gsm: 178 N
150-250gsm: 222 N>200gsm: 267 N

For all types of substrates:<20% change from initial after
wash 10x

For all types of substrates:

For all types of substrates:<20% change after 30 wash.

< 30% change after 60 wash37

● AATCC 197 and 198

Garment Integrity
Test (whole garment
after aging process)Dimensional change

Appearance

Options:● ISO 16322/6330 (sprirality or angularvariation) 4N with ISO 5077 wash/dry
conditions based on care instructions. If
tumble dry, use 10 wash / 1 dry● AATCC Monograph M6, according to carelabel
ISO 5077 OR
AATCC 150 AND
Visual Exam (Comprehensive)
Visual Exam (Comprehensive)● If nofunctional
finish: 0%50%

Cleaning cycles 10x

Cleaning cycles 30x

Cleaning cycles 60x

20%● Shrinkage ±5%● Skewness ±5%30%● Grade >3 pilling using ASTM/ISO pilling photos/replicas● No component/trim failure (e.g. buttons, zipper)● Color Change: Grade >4 using AATCC / ISO greyscale for color change● No broken seams

38

Table 19. Duration of Service Requirements for Woven Products
Duration of Service Test and Rating
Test Item

Test Standard% Weighting per
Test

Fabric Colorfastness

Seam/Yarn slippage
ResistanceStretch & Recovery(if garments havestretch claim)
Zipper Quality

10 points (moderate)

15 points (aspirational)● ISO 6330 4N with ISO 5077
wash/dry conditions based on care
instructions, 1 wash. If tumble dry, use
10 wash / 1 dry
OR● AATCC Monograph M6, according tocare label
OR (if dry clean only)● ISO 3175-2 and assessing via ISO
3175-1AND● AATCC 124
ISO 105-C06 (at 40 degrees) OR
AATCC 61, 2A (to laundering)
ISO 105-X12 OR
AATCC 8 (to crocking) wet rub
ISO 105 E04 OR
AATCC 15 (to perspiration)
ISO 105-B02 OR
AATCC 16, Op3, 20 AFU (to light)

N/A

Skewness ±4%
Shrinkage/Elongation ±4%

N/A

Grade >4 using AATCC / ISO grey scale for color change

N/A

Grade ≥3 using AATCC / ISO grey scale for color change

N/A

Grade >4 staining of multi-fiber using AATCC greyscale for staining
Grade >4 staining of multi-fiber using greyscale for staining

N/A

Grade ≥4 using AATCC / ISO blue scale for color change

ISO 13936-2 OR
ASTM D1683
EN 14704-1 OR
ASTM 3107

N/A≤ 6 mm at 60 N for low weight fabrics (<220 gsm)
≤ 6 mm at 120 N for high weight fabrics (≥ 220 gsm)

N/A

For <5% spandex: 85% recovery @ 60 min
For ≥5% spandex: 90% recovery @ 60 min

BS EN 16732 OR
ASTM D2062

N/A

Selected zipper meets specification requirements.
Operability, Repeat Cycles, etc.

Performance Test (materials)
Martindale Abrasion

5 points (basic)

Basic material performance specifications standards are available and tested Pass, atleast including the following:

Pre-Qualification (materials and parts)
Fabric Dimensional
Stability

Endurance Factors and Requirements

ISO 12947-2 OR
ASTM D4966 (Option 2 or 3)

50%
● 20%

● Rupture of 2 yarns after
12’000 cycles● Rupture of 2 yarns after
20’000 cycles● Rupture of 2 yarns after 30’000
cycles39

Fabric Tearing strength

Fabric Tensile strength

Smoothness (ifclaimed)Garment Integrity
Test (whole garment
after aging process)ISO 13937-1 OR
ASTM D1424

ISO 13934-2 OR
ASTM D5034● ISO 6330 4N tumble dry low, 1 WashOR● AATCC Monograph M6, according
to care label
AND● AATCC 124
Options:● ISO 16322/6330 (sprirality or
angular variation) 4N with ISO
5077 wash/dry conditions based oncare instructions. If tumble dry, use
10 wash / 1 dry● AATCC Monograph M6, according
to care label● If smoothness
claimed: 10%● If smoothness notclaimed: 15%<70gsm: ≥ 8N

<70gsm: ≥ 9N

<70gsm: ≥ 10 N

71-120gsm: ≥ 10 N

71-120gsm: ≥ 11 N

71-120gsm: ≥ 12N

121-200gsm: ≥ 12N

121-200gsm: ≥ 13 N

121-200gsm: ≥ 14 N

>200gsm: ≥ 16 N

>200gsm: ≥ 17N>200gsm: ≥ 20 N

● If smoothness
claimed: 10%● If smoothness notclaimed: 15%<150 gsm: Warp=220N, fill(weft)=110N<150 gsm: Warp=270 N,
fill=160 N<150 gsm: Warp=310 N, fill=200N

151-200 gsm Warp=290 N,
fill=130 N

151-200 gsm: Warp=330 N,
fill=180 N

151-200 gsm: Warp=380 N,
fill=220N

201-300 gsm
Warp= 360 N, fill= 180 N

201-300 gsm : Warp=400 N,
fill=220 N

201-300 gsm: Warp=440 N,
fill=270 N

301-400 gsm Warp=400 N,
fill=220 N

301-400 gsm: Warp=440 N,
fill=270 N

301-400 gsm: Warp=490 N,
fill=310 N>400 gsm: Warp=490 N,
fill=290 N>400 gsm: Warp=530 N,
fill=330 N>400 gsm: Warp=580 N, fill=380
N

Grade ≥4 after 10x wash

Grade ≥4 after 30x wash

Grade ≥3-4 after 60 wash

Cleaning cycles 10x

Cleaning cycles 30x

Cleaning cycles 60x● If smoothness
claimed: 10%● If smoothness notclaimed: 0%50%

OR ISO 3175-2 and assessing via
ISO 3175-1 (if dry clean only)
Dimension● AATCC 150● Visual Exam (Comprehensive)20%● Dimensional change ±4%● Skewness ±4%

Appearance

Visual Exam (Comprehensive)

30%● Pilling Grade ≥3-4 using ISO / ASTM pilling photos/replicas● No component/trim failure (e.g. zipper, brad, buttons, studs)● Color Change: Grade >4 using AATCC / ISO greyscale for color change● No broken seams

40

In the Higg PM, users indicate which tests and which levels have been achieved by the product and the materials that compose it.
Internal test results are acceptable as long as the lab holds an internationally recognized accreditation for the tests being performed.
Suitable proof for meeting requirements is development-based and not production-based, provided suitable production tolerances havebeen agreed upon with the manufacturers.
As the user completes this section, the percent of total possible points achieved translates to a DoS Factor, or multiplier to the
product’s lifetime (number of care cycles in the functional unit).
No tests performed or pre-requirement thresholds not achieved = DoS Factor of 1
Percent of possible points achieved below 50% but still passes pre-qualifications = DoS Factor of 1.1
Percent of possible points achieved between 50-80% = DoS Factor of 1.18
Percent of possible points achieved above 80% = DoS Factor of 1.25
The percent of possible points achieved is equal to the test score divided by the maximum number of points.
Test score = Σ(test weight * test points achieved)
The maximum number of points is 15.

41

APPENDIX A: HIGG PM EXTERNAL REVIEW REPORTS AND RESPONSES
Three external reviews were conducted for a previous version of this Higg PM Methodology
document. As such, page numbers and section headers may not always match. The external
reviewers were:
Dr. Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu
Dr. Gregory Norris
Dr. Sandra Roos

Independent
NewEarth B
RISE IVF

Updates and clarifications requested in the reviews have already been incorporated into thiscurrent version of the document. Larger methodological recommendations will be discussed by
SAC members. Items that SAC’s Product Advisory Council (PAC) has requested to prioritize inthese discussions include:● Updating criteria for the selection of included environmental impact areas and LCIA
methods;● Furthering integration between the Higg FEM and Higg PM;● Clarifying and perhaps updating the functional unit. At a minimum, clarification isneeded for the nomenclature in the Higg MSI; and● Updating Duration of Service assumptions.

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APPENDIX B: HIGG PRODUCT MODULE METHODOLOGY DEVELOPMENT PROCESSFor several years the SAC has been working on product assessment tools which have contributed
extensively to knowledge and learning about life cycle impacts of apparel and footwear products.
SAC’s past work on Product Category Rules can also prove useful in a PEFCR development
process. In 2013 the SAC wrote Style and Performance PCRs for Coats/Jackets, T-Shirts, andSlacks/Trousers/Shorts. In addition, the SAC led the Technical Secretariat in writing the Draft
Non-Leather Footwear Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCR). The SAC
also leads the Technical Secretariat in drafting the Global Apparel and Footwear ProductEnvironmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCR). Through this work, SAC understands theimportant impacts, complexities, and realities involved with product assessment in the appareland footwear industries.

Documents Written by SAC● Sustainable Apparel Coalition Product Category Rule Guidance, 2013
● Product Category Rule for Style Slacks and Trousers and Shorts: Earthsure PCR #Style-53101500-2013● Product Category Rule for Performance Slacks and Trousers and Shorts: Earthsure PCR #Performance-53101500-2013● Product Category Rule for Style T-Shirts: Earthsure PCR # Style-53103000-2013● Product Category Rule for Performance T-Shirts: Earthsure PCR #Performance-53103000-2013● Product Category Rule for Style Coats and Jackets: Earthsure PCR #Style-53101800-2013● Product Category Rule for Performance Coats and Jackets: Earthsure PCR #Performance-53101800-2013● Footwear Product Environmental Footprint Category Rule (PEFCR): Second Draft with
Stakeholder Comments Incorporated (Dec. 21, 2016)● Technical Key Learnings and Recommendations Report: EU Product Environmental
Footprint (PEF) Footwear Pilot

Additional Resources Consulted● SAC Members● JRC Report on PEF method: https://eplca.jrc.ec.europa.eu/permalink/PEF_method.pdf● Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCR) Leather. Final version April
2018: https://ec.europa.eu/environment/eussd/smgp/pdf/PEFCR_leather.pdf● Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCR) T-Shirts. Version 1.0
February 2019: https://ec.europa.eu/environment/eussd/smgp/pdf/PEFCR_tshirt.pdf● General Principles for an Environmental Communication on Mass-Market Products. Part
23: Methodology to assess apparel environmental impacts ADEME. March 2016.
● Wool LCA Guidelines:o https://www.iwto.org/sites/default/files/files/iwto_resource/file/IWTO%20Guideli
nes%20for%20Wool%20LCA.pdf● Published wool LCA related papers:
65

o
o
o
o

https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s11367-015-0849-z
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0959652616001700
https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/10/7/2524
https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s11367-018-1538-5

Participants
Many SAC Members participated in the Footprint Task Team which was responsible for Higg
PM methodology development. Since different parts of the methodology require different
expertise, members were split into five different teams.
Project Management and Facilitation
SAC (2017 – 2020)
Julie Brown
SAC (2020 – 2021)Joël Mertens
Materials & Manufacturing (2017-2018)
Nike (sub-team chair)
Adam Brundage
Cotton Research and Development Corporation (CRDC)
Allan Williams
Nørrona
Brad Boren
Nike
Catherine Newman
Brooks Sports
Dave Kemp
Patagonia
Elena Egorova
INVISTAFrancis Mason
Mountain Equipment Co-Op (MEC)Joël Mertens
Toray
Kevin McMullan
ALDO Group
Karine Kicak
Lenzing
Krishna Manda
REI
Matt Thurston
H&M
Matthias Bodin
Eileen Fisher
Megan Meiklejohn
Eileen Fisher
Xiaofei Li
Use & End of Use (2017-2018)
Allan Williams
Brad Boren
Greg Scott
Guru Larson
Inka ApterJames Rogers
Karine Kicak
Kevin McMullan
Les Jacques,

Cotton Research and Development Corporation (CRDC)
NørronaMountain Equipment Co-Op (MEC)
Columbia
Eileen Fisher
The North Face
ALDO GroupToray
Invista66

Michele Wallace
Paul Swan
Rick McDonald
Sergio Blecua
Stewart Sheppard
Todd Krieger

Cotton Incorporated
International Wool Trade Organization (IWTO)
Nike
INDITEX
W.L. Gore (sub-team chair)
DuPontChemistry (2017-2018)
Bob BuckJoël Mertens
Michele Wallace
Kilian Hochrein
Krishna Manda
Xiaofei Li

The Chemours Company
Mountain Equipment Co-Op (MEC) (sub-team chair)
Cotton Incorporated
W.L. Gore
Lenzing
Eileen Fisher

Higg PM Tool Outputs (2017)
Adam Brundage
Allan William
Barruch Ben-Zekry
Beverley Henry
Elissa Foster
Gregory Gausewitz
Greg Scott
Guru Larson
Julie Brown
Les JacquesMichele Wallace
Valerie Presolly
Jigna Wright

Nike
Cotton Research and Development Corporation (CRDC)
VF Corporation
International Wool Trade Organization (IWTO)
Patagonia
REI
Mountain Equipment Co-Op (MEC)
Columbia
SAC (sub-team chair)
INVISTA
Cotton Incorporated
Mountain Equipment Co-Op (MEC)
Nike

Duration of Service (2017)
Akihiro Omatsuzawa
Alex Karahalis
Annika Washburn
Brian McAdams
Diana Wyman
Greg Scott, MEC
Jayakumar Gopalkrishnan
Jennifer Rodgers
Jennifer List
John Shen

JCFA
W.L. Gore
Patagonia
W.L. Gore
AATCC
Mountain Equipment Co-Op (MEC)
Pratibha Syntex
ATSM
Nike
Mountain Equipment Co-Op (MEC)67

Katina Boutis
Katy Stevens
Kazuyuki Masuda
Lalit Toshniwal
Matthew Guenther
Matthew McDonald
Merle Heesch
Michele Wallace
Minako Hayashi
John Moraes
Rick Horwitch
Roy Kettlewell
Sravanth Kanukuntla
Srini Venkataraman
Stewart Sheppard
Ugamoorthi Ramakrishnan
Val SinYasuyuki Cho
You-Kyum Kim

Loomstate
European Outdoor Group (EOG)
Boken
TargetWilliams-Sonoma, Inc.
Mountain Equipment Co-Op (MEC)
Globetrotter
Cotton Incorporated
Toray
Nike
Bureau Veritas
International Wool Trade Organization (IWTO)
SGS
Bureau Veritas
W.L. Gore (sub-team chair)
Eastman Exports
Williams-Sonoma, Inc.
Japan Textile Federation
FITI

Methodology development began in January 2017. By June 2017 a draft methodology wasdeveloped and ready to pilot. By December 2017 a Higg PM prototype was developed in Excel
that was supported with data from the Higg MSI and Quantis. This prototype was used to pilot
the methodology and data for three months by the following organizations:
Adidas GroupALDO GroupASICS
Brooks
Cotton Incorporated
Cotton Research and Development Corporation (CRDC)
Duke University
DuPontEileen Fisher
Fast Retailing
Globetrotter
H&M
INDITEX
I:Collect
International Wool Trade Organization (IWTO)
Mountain Equipment Co-op
New Balance
68

Nike
Patagonia
Sympatex
TargetThe Swedish School of Textiles
The pilot ended in February 2018. Almost 400 pieces of feedback were submitted to SAC.
Between February and September 2018 the Footprint Task Team reviewed pilot feedback andupdated the Higg PM methodology to address the feedback as much as possible.
In September and October 2018, the final Higg PM methodology was reviewed by the full SAC
membership over 30 days as part of a Full Member vote. Members were asked to vote onwhether or not to continue Higg PM development for a 2019 tool release. An “approve” votemeant support for releasing the tool based on current methodology. An “Object” to the Higg PM
release meant support for delaying the release of the Higg PM indefinitely in order to continue
working on the methodology. One hundred and five SAC member organizations voted, and thevote passed with a 90% approval rate.

69