Kikan Kochi
Think & Action Magazine,
Kochi. Winter 2015 No.59

Giant Interview
Photographer

Kishin Shinoyama

Features

Kochi Dining 10
Places that are loved by the people
and the ingredients

冬

WinterKenzo Nakajima
Born in 1959 in Kochi City. Lives andworks from Misono Town in Kochi City.
He is a Photographer for Tourism Posters
and Various Advertisements. He lectures
a Photography course and conducts
overseas photography seminars. He is a
graduate of the Photography Departmentof Osaka University of Arts. A member of
the Japanese Advertising Photographer’s
Association (APA) and The Japanese Society for Arts and History of Photography.
http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/japan_kenzo

This is the English Version of KIKAN KOCHI.
It is revised in order to shorten its length.
We do hope many people will readthis free online magazine.

CONTENTS
02

Ken-chan’s fanciful photo diary: Kenzo Nakajima

04

DOKU-SO-GAN : Hidemi Taike

05

Features
Kochi Dining 10
Places that are loved
by the people and the ingredients46

Giant Interview
Photographer Kishin Shinoyama

56

Designing Your Way of Thinking /a message from a man living in
the 47th prefecture : Makoto Umebara

60

Extra by Yukinori Dehara : Yukinori Dehara

62

Kochi Central City Map

Ken-chan’s fanciful photo diary No.42

UmanosukeJinja*(*Shinto Shrine)
STA FF
Picture: Shimanto Town, Kochi Prefecture.

STAFF
Publisher

Following the Shimanto River and then into the valleys of the tributary upstream.
A winding 3 KMs from the national route, and a further 4 KMs up a rocky and bumpy road.
Taking each moment carefully, you start to notice spectres ever so slightly covered in moss,
At first shrugging it off as a delusion, as you arrive you are welcomed by a horde of spectres.
Believed to be shrine for Umanosuke, a cursed and abandoned delinquent.
This Shrine welcomes abandoned children as a haven for their spirits.
Although Umanosuke was killed without reason, he can calmly rest without cursing others.
The children at the shrine seem happy and kind.
Surely, the children are receiving guidance,
From the spirit of Umanosuke.
2

Yoshihiro Nonami / Cricket
Junichi Kusunoki / Koubun

Advertising

Takayuki Mimoto / Koubun

Editor in Chief

Yoshihiro Nonami / Cricket

Editor

Sachihiko Oouchi / Cricket
Midori Ueta / Cricket

Ttranslation Adviser Jeremy Edward Tan
Proofreader

Matthew Lester

DesignYumi Ito / Cricket

Cover

Hiroshi Kawauchi / Plane

Cover Art

Keiko Shibata

Photographer

Mikiya Kadota

3

Kochi Dining 10042[ Underfoot ]Places that are loved[ The soft and flabby thing that eats everything ]

G oo

dD

[ Long way ]ayOo

You mean because
it doesn’ t see thesun but is undercontinuous pressure?

by the people and the ingredients

oo

o~

~~

~~

~~

~~

~~

~ ii

iii!

!

Don’ tyou
youfeelfeelthat
that
Don’t
the heel of the footis oppressed?

Wh

In that point, I think
Apart from socks,
it’alwaysexposed.
exposed. the ankle is in somewhat
it’ssalways
better condition.

aa

a

~
aa

~~

~~

~~

~
~~

~~

~t

ttt

!

L et
’
clo s s sp e aker ~~~~ ~~~~~~~ ~!!
!

Yea, exposed a lot,it also has an erotic
connotation.

The part behind the knee
seems to be constantly
exposed to the sun.

at it a n ,m s thIt see ’ t li ke Pitold eggs .
doesn a nd-yea rt h ou s
Who are you?!

Yes, I agree completely
with that thought.

4

Oh! Well that makes sense.

5Chapter 1 Nishitosa, Shimanto City
Shimanto’s private kitchen

An exclusive and delectable Italian

まんま・みあselection of ingredients and dishes

Manma・Miyadining experience with a superb
in a calming space.

Apple Mint Water.

Located on the banks of the Shimanto River, this little house takes in the entire viewof the surrounding area and serves a full course of delectable dishes using the freshest
and finest of the village’s ingredients. One group can have from 2 to 8 people. “I want
my guests to relax”, says the Owner Chef, Michihiro Miyashita. With his beautiful wife,
they serve only two groups per day; one for lunch and one for dinner, and places must
be booked. “That’s why my guests can take an afternoon nap after their meals,” laughs
Michihiro with a big smile. Furthermore, since it is right by the river, guests can playby the riverside after their meals before heading home. Even more astonishing is thevolume of the dishes!
Upon arrival you are taken to the room for your meal, given your table cloth and handwipe and are served with Apple Mint Water. Next is the appetizer, Couscous with handgrown tomato sauce, followed by the hors d'oeuvre; Pepperoncino made in the nearby

Kochi Dining 10
Places that are loved by the people
and the ingredients
6

Okuyanai using Konjac, (solidified jelly made from root vegetables and or potatoes)
and many others. All 8 appetizers are stacked on beautiful plates with each and every
one made with carefully selected ingredients and with a specific method of cooking.
Next we have a Frittata made with locally grown Maitake and hand-grown broccoli.
Following that, we have a heart, soul and body warming soup made with mashed up
7UP: Home grown herbs; Michihiro selects
his rosemary for their herb-grilled Shimanto
Chicken.
DOWN: Freshly baked assorted seed bread.

Annou-Imo (local Japanese Yam) simmered intween the two. Chatting to the couple while at the restaurant, their different personal-

soy milk and fresh cream. So sweet, your cheeks

ities add colour and flavour to the dishes. With this much food with such great flavour,

would melt with the soup.Next we have an as-

and only costing 2000 JPY per person, it is truly a bargain unheard of!

sortment of well-crafted breads made with awonderful selection of seeds; Chia seeds, Organic Sunflower seeds and a variety of pumpkin

A blissful 2 hours have passed.

seeds. After, we move on to the main dish, a8

scrumptious mouth-watering herb grilled Shi-

“The majority of our customers are ladies. They enjoy relaxing and chatting together.

manto Chicken, which was marinated overnight

Many customers coming for lunch spend a jovial two and a-half hours with us. Addi-

with at least 7 spices. The main is served withtionally, because there won’t be any customers coming until the evening, it becomesa selection of 10 local vegetables, which almost

a secure private room. During that time, my husband and I would go to another roomtake the spotlight away from the Chicken. All theto prepare for tomorrow,” mentions Chisato about the room. She also talks about how

vegetables are selected each day from the gar-they would have to consider rent, labour costs, food costs and margins when they haddens of the Miyashita family or sourced from theset up shop in Fukuoka. “Now we are in the middle of a small rural town, customers

local farmers of Nishitosa. Today’s course also

spend their own gasoline or petrol in their own cars to drive all the way here. I thinkincluded Cream pasta blossoms with local bacon2000 JPY per person is a fair price. We barely make our margins but that’s fine. We en-

and turnip. Finally the desert comes to the table,

joy it,” laughs Chisato.

Seasonal Chestnut Ice Cream! All the dishes are

Michihiro then points out, “I want our customers to come here and enjoy the fresh, raw

carefully cooked and prepared by the owner chef

taste of the vegetables. We want to bring out the flavour of the vegetable, so we don’t

couple and they work with such skill, relying on

overpower it with added intense flavours. It is always comforting to hear that custom-each other for different duties. Each crockery

ers love the taste. Our main aim is to use all our own home-grown vegetables. We only

selection for each dish is also evenly selected be-purchase extra when we don’t have enough of a certain vegetable. We don’t have a full9

grown farm, so we have no choice but to purchase the meat and dairy. All our dressingsand flavourings are all hand-made.”

Tasting (hearing) the sound of the Shimanto River.

Michihiro started out working for an airline company. After several years he was placedin Fukuoka Airport. Within a few years he decided to leave his company and with hiswife started his own restaurant in Fukuoka. They continued their business for 12
years. 5 years ago, they returned to Chisato’s hometown of Nishitosa, Shimanto City,and Kochi Prefecture. They came back to help her parents with their rice fields, chestnuts, shiitake mushrooms, and vegetable growing. No matter how busy their life was,on weekdays they would wake up at 4 AM to make bento boxes (packed lunch boxes inJapan) using their fresh ingredients to take and sell at the local farmers market, Nishitosa Furusato Market. After grasping their pace of life, in 2014 they opened a charming
village Italian restaurant that focused on bringing out the very best of vegetables. They
named it [まんま・みや] (Manma Miya). With growing popularity, they have been called
to set up shop at local Nishitosa events, neighbouring town markets and events. They
focus on selling freshly made, and hot on the stick, “四万十鶏deとり天 (Shimanto-Dori deTori-Ten)” their delicious fresh lovely chicken tempura. Chisato says about their busy
schedule, “I feel apologetic to our customers at times. With all the events, rice planting
in spring, chestnut and rice harvesting in autumn and balancing our opening hours, wehave to close our restaurant for long periods. Our weekend bookings are always full andduring the closed periods customers can’t make bookings. I feel very sorry of them.”
She also mentions about how they are trying to increase time for customers, “At theMichihiro was born in Kagoshima.
He comes from a family that operates a large-scale poultry farm,and since he was a child he's notable to eat chicken. However thetaste and flavour of the Shimanto
chickens are special. So much sohe brings it out in his dishes. In
autumn, they use the fresh Chestnuts from Chisato’s farms to makeheart-warming chestnut soups,
delicious desserts and mouth-watering chestnut ice cream.
10

11

moment, we are in the middle of building averanda on the house for an open terrace. We
plan to create an environment for customers toenjoy desserts and have tea. This will also havea limited number of bookings. Also, if possible
to move the hours, we might be able to have
two groups. However, we put priority on ourcustomer’s time to relax and enjoy the environment, so we are still thinking about this very
carefully.”
The couple serves dishes full of love and carethat truly brings out the natural flavour of eachseason’s vegetables. You can lie down and sit
back in a truly relaxing environment in frontof the Shimanto River. From the parking area
to the door of the restaurant, you can hear
the sound of the river. It truly is a luxurious
environment. Nowhere near is a roadside, therestaurant is in a calm and quiet place. You
will want to praise yourself for finding such abeautiful, quaint and lovely restaurant.

A beautiful open terrace completed. They will be selecting tables and chairs to put on the terrace. Openfrom spring till autumn, a place to spend, relax andenjoy time. They will also be launching new bento
boxes at the newly opened [ 道の駅 よって！西土佐(Michi-no-eki Yotte! Nishitosa)] on April 10th 2016.
A fresh new place to enjoy Nishitosa!

Shimanto River

hage

江川崎

半家

381
●

441

Michi-no-Eki[Yotte! Nishitosa]■
Manma・Miya

Tokawa十川

四万十トンネル

Michi-no-Eki[Shimanto Touwa]●

To Shimanto City

Directions: On Route 381, if you are passing the [Michino-eki Shimanto Touwa] towards Nishitosa, Take a left
turn before entering the Shimanto Tunnel. Follow theroad till you reach a Y junction and take the left road. You
will come across over a bridge for the train, and it is thefirst house after.
12

Shimanto’s Private Kitchen

Manma・Miya

Shimanto Tunnel↑

The dinner course has two added dishes to the lunch course,with an extra fish dish and sashimi dish. There are many customers who ask for the dinner course for lunch.

ekawasaki

Shimanto-Shi, Nishitosa, Hage 1249
TEL: 0880-52-2147 (Bookings are a must)
Lunch: 2000 JPY/ Person
Dinner: 3500 JPY/ Person*No Children Menu
*Menus can be changed according to consultation(Ayu, Eel, Shimanto Beef are additional charges)

Regular Off Days: (Undecided, please call)[Long holidays in spring and autumn]

13Since the Edo-days,
This well established fish shop,
Becomes a charming dining hall
3 afternoons a week .

I realised I would be the 5th owner to take over the store,

Chapter 2・Kochi City Kami-Machi
Kamimachi Ikezawahonten

after heading into society.

This old fish shop that has a history dating from the Edo period of Japan is located

上町食堂

in Kamimachi of Kochi City. [Kamimachi Ikezawa Honten] has been serving peo-

Kamimachi Shokudou

ple in the afternoon [Kamimachi Dining Hall] for 3 years running, just for the loveof Fish. People came to know of this dining hall just through word of mouth fromprevious visitors. The dining hall is right by the fish shop and there are varieties
Grilled dishes, Salt baked Amberjack. 540JPY

of set meals and seafood bowls to choose from. You can even choose any fish fromthe display and order them as Sashimi, salt baked, grilled or even tempura fried,
any way you like it. Also, in the corner of the hall you can select from the variety

Kochi Dining 10
Places that are loved by the people
and the ingredients
14of side dishes to enjoy with your meal. It is as fresh as it can be, with your selection of fresh fish, cooked right there. That is the most rewarding element. The
man behind this delightful dining hall is the 5th generation owner, Syurou Ikezawa. We chat and discuss about his ideas and plans to give Kamimachi a wonderfulplace to eat fish, his fish shop, food education and much more.
15

After graduating university in Osaka, Syurou Ikezawa started his career as a Systems Engineer for an IT company. At the age of 25, realising he would eventuallytake over the family business, he started his negotiations and discussions withthe company’s management, training department and his clients. At the age of30, he returned back to Kochi and took over the business as the 5th generation
owner. His training as the owner of a fish shop started there.
“I didn’t know a single name of any species or type of fish. I couldn’t even cut up a
fish. For the first 2 years, I wasn’t even worth making money. All I did was learn
how to prepare the fish to sell and just took directions on what to do. It really wasjust pure training every day. From my 3rd year, my father finally allowed me tocome with him to the wholesale markets. There was a time when my father got
injured and I had to go alone to the whole sale markets.”
Tempura of daggertooth pike, 380 JPY.

My food education,
star ted with being interested in food I thought was delicious.

For a fish shop, knowing how to tell a fish’s value and freshness is what makesor breaks the business. Syurou however thinks that there is something more toit, and believes that “relationships” and “information” is important. The major
competition at the Kochi Fish Markets is mainly for Tuna, with the other fish going through direct business brokers. “It is really important meeting each broker
and communicating, ‘How much is this?’ ‘Give me a 50 JPY discount’ ‘I’ll take it
all, give me a better price’ and all the negotiations”. Syurou kindly explains its
similarity to a flea market. The close relationships are important. Additionally,knowing which fish is in season, has a good amount of fat on it, where and which
port these fish are taken from; either within or even outside of Kochi prefecture.
Knowing the entire country’s brokers to make the best deals. There are the fish16

17

that end up lining up the display cabinets in the shop. In such cases, having many
generations that know the business and having a name within the industry is beneficial when negotiating, explains Syurou.
“Meat and Fish are roughly the same, it’s not simply enough to say that only
freshest are the ones caught that day. Depending on the fish species or type, someare still fresh 2 or 3 days after. There are also those that are better after a certain
amount of time. For example, the white fish from the area in Seto Inland Sea areparticularly delicious while fish caught from the Japan Sea also have their own
special flavours. It is truly important to create your own network of trusted brokers to find quality fish from all around the country.”
Syurou heard from a friend of a store in Okinawa running his store in a similar
way. His friend told him how they sold the fish and had a dining hall. Finding itvery interesting, he started to run the store with a limitation of only 3 afternoons
a week. It has had a really good response. In recent years, the majority of consumers go to supermarkets, volume retailers and department stores to purchasetheir shopping. To increase their customer base and to have customers know justa bit more about fish, the only way was to call them to visit. So, as a method of
meeting customers, this dining hall is very effective. However, Syurou did notincrease his staff members just to run this dining hall. He has his current staff do
the best they can, and that’s why they only have 3 afternoons in a week running
this dining hall.
The Special Kai-sen-Don, 7 recommended fish of theday, lovingly placed on top of freshly cooked rice.
Today’s dish has Tuna, Mackerel Tataki, Octopus,
King Salmon, and Fresh Sea Bream from the Pacific,
seasonal Winter Amberjack and Squid. All this forthe cheap price of 1000 JPY.

18

“Our fish bowls and set menus cost quite a lot and are margins are low (laughs).
Thinking about just running a dining hall, I don’t think it is that profitable. But
as a concept, getting the family to come, having children look at the fish alive oron display, is educational. This hall has a hidden face of being educational. Unlike

19the supermarkets where you just see cuts offish lined up on display, you see the fish in its
full form, learn how it is cut up and after tasting it, think ‘delicious!’. That’s what I want tosee. People will start to be interested in foodthat is delicious.”

Spare a few minutes for a chat?
5th owner, Syurou Ikezawa

Since starting the Kamimachi Dining Hall,
young people in their teens and twenties often strike up conversation with Syurou. At
times, “What do you recommend today?” isa common line that he hears. Syurou would
take fish that are great and most probably notsold in supermarkets and show them. “It sohappened I had got a plump fresh large headhair tail that day, I showed them the fish andcut off a big piece and said, ‘I’ll grill it and you
can have a taste’ and I recommended them totaste.” With a big smile, “When they see thefish in front of them, see the freshness andplumpness they become surprised. They learn
the difference from shopping at a supermarket
and actually buying from a fish shop” explains

Kamimachi Ikezawahonten

Syurou about how enjoys chatting with his

Kamimachi Shokudou

customers.
Syurou’s fish shop opens 3 afternoons a week●P

for you to dine at their charming dining hall.
On the menu you find no trace of alcohol todrink. This is a place by the professionals, aplace you can truly immerse one’s self in thetaste of the FISH.
20●●

Sun Pulaza
kamimachi

Kamimachi 5
Tram Stop●

Mater
Parking■
Kamimachi Shokudou●

Kamimachi 4
Tram Stop

Kochi City, Kamimachi 4-3-11
TEL: 088-823-5225
Open: Thursday, Friday Saturday Afternoons(closed on Public holidays)
Time: 11:00 till 14:00 (Last Order 13:30)
Closed: Closed in December (reopens on January 7)
Parking Spaces: 3 available
http://kochinet.info/cafe

21

Welcome to the honest worldof handmade tofu,
And the world of the dignified
store Owner.

Chapter 3 Kochi City, Kagami
Handmade Tofu

草峰庵

Kusamine-an

The champion of Tofu has victoriously returned home!

In Kochi City’s Kusamine area in Kagami, you find a quaint store that has been
selling for over 60 years. However, the owner came down with injuries and for
3 years the store has been closed. Kouhei Toyonaga, recently freshly graduatedfrom university, took on his grandfather’s shop and continues to protect the “Tasteof Tofu” and the tofu that his grandfather always made.
In November of 2013, he made a decision to build and open the [Kusamine-an].
His family helps him and on the day of the interview, his mother and uncle were
helping him. When he decided to start his own Tofu store, his family and relatives agreed straight away. What is the charm and power of tofu that charms this

Kochi Dining 10

young man, Kouhei Toyonaga born in the 1989? (A significant year, as the turn ofPlaces that are loved by the people
and the ingredients

He started helping his grandfather making Tofu during his junior high school’s

Japanese periods from Showa into Heisei)
workplace experience. Upon entering high school, on the days that he had noclub activities and during the summer holidays, he was helping out his grandfather. When out of the prefecture, and during his university’s 1st and 2nd year,

22

23

Kou hei sets Mondays as thei r reg u lar
day off. However, even on his day off, hewould have to prepare for the tofu making
the next day. Not much time for rest. His
current problem is finding time to relax;
at times trying to match time off with his
friends has been a struggle.

24

when he returned home he would help withness, when he wanted to restart there was atofu making. “I honestly wanted to take over

lot of paperwork that had to be prepared andthe business right after high school. But, mythe store could not be started right away.

homeroom teacher told me ‘you should learn

Positively, Kouhei started to study the culti-

more about soy beans.’ and my parents also

vation of soybeans and growing beans in theinsisted, ‘at least go study and come back withcountryside without pesticides and went toa teaching license.’ So I agreed to go.” Kouhei

his father’s hometown of Otoyo to learn andmoved on to study in the agricultural depart-live for a year. After returning, he spent thement of a university on Kyushu.

following year repairing all the tools that

He wanted to restart his grandfather’s store

his grandfather used, and learning from his

as soon as he graduated. But, as his grandfa-

grandfather in preparation to open his store.

ther’s stall was treated as cessation of busi-

It took him 2 years to prepare. With the tools
25and ingredients that his grandfather had used

The brine decides ever y thing.

as a base, he started to cultivate the taste and26change if it is not soaked long enough or if it

the brine and tofu. This method has a benefit:

is soaked too long. It is really important to

it rarely creates mistakes. We do it different-

colour of his own original tofu. He began trials

Tofu ingredients are simple. Soybeans, Water

communicate with the beans.”

ly: we completely rely on traditional meth-and testing to prepare for his own tofu.

and Brine. It is even more important to ensure

Next we have the most important process,ods. The process is really delicate but mixes“It is a basic principle in tofu making toeach process has to be done faithfully andmixing in the brine. He mixes the brine withcleanly. If there is not enough brine, the outerchange the bittern or brine when changing

honestly. He selects and prepares the beanssome warm water, stirs it slowly, looks at itshell of the tofu will be hardened but the inner

soybeans. But I wanted to keep the taste offor soaking according to the temperature,

carefully for a time, and then returns to his

parts of the tofu will be soft like water or pud-

the tofu from my grandfather’s tofu. I wanted

season, humidity, and water temperature.

other process. He returns to look at the water,

ding. On the other hand, if we mix too muchto continue its flavour. He used soybeans from

This helps dictate the soaking time required.

checks the texture of the water, adds morebrine, the water would evaporate too muchoverseas and had his own formulated brine. I

Kouhei explains about the soaking process;brine and mixes it. He takes this step ex-from the tofu and it will end up dry and bro-

did not want to change that. Yet, I tried and“My method of soaking is a medium of com-tremely carefully and repeating as necessary.

ken up”.

tested on how to add my own blend using Jap-

munication between the beans and me. When

“Large scale tofu makers decide on a set

In the process of making the tofu, even theanese soybeans. It took me time but thanks

I pull the beans out of the water and I hear aamount of brine and mix it in. Then using anwater that comes out from the press is used toto the experiments, I want to keep increasing

soft high-pitched sound, it still has not soaked

equally sized bucket and stainless steel board

flow the tofu mix into a soft cloth before being

and opening my perspectives.”

long enough. The flavour of the beans will

pushes the brine evenly from the top to joinplaced carefully into a mould. Next they add
27the brine to the mixture in the mould, using a

One block of tofu costs 180 JPY. Kusamine-an
Tofu has great soybean flavour. It is a bit hard,
but great for boiled tofu. The store usually
only sells the “Kimagure Tofu” but sometimes
there would be days where you can fi nd thickfried tofu. Also, the “Okara” or bean curd lees
are free to take at Kusamine-an.

spatula to softly make it into a square shape.
The mixture is then tied into the cloth andpressed with a heavy stone from the top to release the water.
Once the tofu hardens, the corners are slightly“Kusamine-an” Tofu is sold at various places
as well, such as, “Kagami-mura no Mise”(Kagami RIO Store, Mama Store). Also sold at
the Taiyou ichi of “Sunshine Beltis (Maezato
Store)”

rounded. It is not initially in a square shape.
There, they take the tofu out of the mould
carefully and with a blade cut the corners of
the tofu and release it back into water. Next
they softly cut each slab of tofu into small
blocks. Their hands are skilled as only an artisan’s hand can be; they can feel the tofu witha sixth sense, experienced over many processes. What is made is an incredibly nurtured
high quality tofu, checked and cared for eachstep of the way. Taking a taste, the flavourof the rich colours of taste from the soybeans
spread in your mouth.

from his mother and uncle is a must. His job“My grandfather's tofu was very tough andis not only making tofu. He has to tend to his

hard. I think that’s part of his love in his tofu.

store and also complete his deliveries. He alsoIt’s his special trait of love to everyone. But inhas to prepare for the next day. Up until now,

this generation, the soft type of tofu is popu-

they have only sold raw tofu, but now they arelar. I want to create a tofu that the same gen-starting to sell thick, fried tofu.

eration of people can enjoy. So I’ve made my

This young man has inherited tofu from his

grandfather’s tofu slightly softer.”

grandfather and he is moulding his own pathin his own tofu making way. An incredible
day to see the support and the bond he has

The hear t is coloured with the family’s suppor t.

28

In one complete process, Kouhei makes 30

man’s awe-inspiring way of life. For Kouhei

blocks of tofu and in a day he would make 180

Toyonaga, to make one’s living from tofu mak-to 210 blocks and each and every step is com-ing, there is more that he must learn and do.

pleted by him. There are times when he has

Please do visit this awe-inspiring owner at his

to do several things at once, so the support

beautiful Kusamine-an Tofu store.

To Tosayama

Kagami6 Elementary 33●
School■Kusamine-an
Kochi Kagami
Town Hall
Kagami River●

Onsen RIO●

6
To Kochi City

with the family. One cannot help but be filledwith kindness when looking at this young

3 generations of Tofu artisans, Kouhei, motherand grandfather. The store’s signboard “草峰庵”(Kusamine-an) was a gift that was written by an
Honoured Teacher from his university days. His
strong relationships are really amazing.

To inoHandmade Tofu

Kusamine-an
Kochi City, Kagami, Kusamine 112-6
TEL: 088-896-2877
In store sales are only open from morning till late afternoon.
Set Closed Days: Mondays.
29

The owner has 50 years of experience,
Has an avarice attitude to ingredients,
and adds a little art and skill.

Chapter 4・Nankoku City
Izakaya

南 風Haebaru

Kiyoaki is enthusiastic aboutfood education. He organises
special classes for schools in
Kochi, with recent classes in
Kochi Prefectural High Schools,
Kochi Prefectural Minami Junior High School and Nankoku
City’s Noda Elementary School.
He works together with famous
chefs such as his fellow chef,
Kiyomi Mikuni.

My journey meeting with ingredients always continues.

In Nankoku City, Oosonekou, take the local train and stopat Gomen Higashi Machi and off the corner intersection you
will find the izakaya, Haebaru. This izakaya is not your usu-

Kochi Dining 10

al izakaya, which is just a place to drink and have a bite toPlaces that are loved by the people
and the ingredients

restaurant. The owner, Kiyoaki Uchida, is an experienced

eat. The quality of dishes served here are as high as a 5 starchef with 50 years of experience. We are mesmerised byhis stories of finding new ingredients and how he treasures
each ingredient.

30

31

Although he has minimal experience in France, he made ita goal to take French cooking classes. He went to Tokyo tolearn from the best and took a French cooking course. Overthe year he has made it his endeavour to taste all the foodfrom the Top Chefs and learn from their cooking. Throughthis method he has learnt a vast number of skills.
Mackerel Sandwich; 800JPY. Rocket and Freshly
broiled mackerel with butter and Karashi mustard
placed in freshly baked bread. It’s a scrumptious harmony in your mouth.

32

Kiyoaki was encouraged by his father torestaurant in Noichi, Kochi called Olympia.

Haebaru. He talked about the times he“Soon it will be 50 years, I don’t seem tostart training at a cooking school right afterWith a stellar career, he was often scouted

worked for various establishments, the in-get bored (laugh). Especially with vegeta-

his junior high school. After graduating, heto be the leader at various wedding halls,

gredients such as the fish: meat, vegetables

bles, there are plenty of ingredients I don’t

entered the western style kitchens of thehotels and restaurants. In June 2007, atand the large variety of other ingredientsknow yet. I am really excited to meet the

Sansuien Hotel. Given his age, his training

the age of 57, he finally started his own

were all delivered to each establishment.

new ingredients. Yep, I must like this life-

was difficult and laborious, but he persisted

place with “Haebaru.”

He did not often go out to the markets andstyle,” laughs Kiyoaki.

and was finally approved by the Head Chef.

“I started out at the end of April and there

select the ingredients with his own hands

After being given a high recommendation

was a strong southern wind blowing. I

or meet with the brokers. It changed withby the Head Chef he was introduced to a 5

wanted to ride on that wind with the feel-

his place, Haebaru. He would go out every

star hotel in Kobe. At the age of 21 he wasing of owning my own place” he reminisced

day to the markets and direct wholesalers,

scouted to be the Head Chef of a popularwhile talking about the time he opened

such as Koukadai Ichiba and Tosa-no-Sato.

The scent is special because it’s natural salt.

“I just found out that you can find red-foot33

34

Gobou Tempura, a very popular starter plate given
on arrival 500 JPY.

Soft Hand-made Tofu 400 JPY.

Beautifully prepared with amazing colours, Daikon &Cheese Salad. 800 JPY.

Even making a booking at the restaurant is a treat
with the chef’s constant jokes. A pleasure to chatwith when sitting and talking in store.

ed prawns around Nagahama. Until last

alkali water and put on ice. The texture isdishes.

salts. I select sea salt and hand dried coarse

week, I had been only able to get them atjust superb. I’ll layer it with a good dash of

There are many customers who come fromsalt for cooking, and for the customers

Koukadai Markets. If you take a bite, they

truffle salt and olive oil and combine it withoutside the prefecture just to meet him. His

when they eat, I ensure they have natural,

are sweeter than tiger prawns. It’s a really

Mimolette cheese. Even the cheese, I learnt

abilities have been well trained and are so

refined, sea salt on their food for tasting.

clean taste. I tried it as Sashimi and also

about Mimolette cheese from a customer.

polished that many trust his skills, his abil-

By separating the types of salt, the taste

lightly fried with garlic. The broker was

It has a strong flavour, like squid ink and I

ity to handle each ingredient, and his well-and scent of my foods are special. For ex-

quite young, but knew a lot more than I

just had to try it. I ordered some and suretrained eyes that pick the best ingredients.

ample, with Katsuo Tataki (Seared Bonito)

ever knew. I started asking more ques-enough it tasted a bit.

He fully utilises this power to make dishes

the salt used during the salting and searing

tions. It was truly educational. This applies

Kiyoaki relishes in finding new ingredients,that tantalise his customers’ tastes buds.

processes releases a sweet beautiful scent.

to vegetables as well. I recently just foundhis discussions with his customers and

His ideology is to create dishes that people

It doesn’t taste good if you add salt lat-out about a small daikon. It is green on

takes every opportunity to study while heare satisfied with and can smile about whener during the eating stage. Next we havethe inside even after peeling. It has suchadventures and tastes food. All these expe-

they go home.

wasabi and salt. I usually select 2 to 3 con-a fine flavour. I have it sliced, mixed withriences are a great benefit to his menu and“I select and separate the usage of mydiments then flake some salt on top. Cur35

It has to be that place,
if you go to Nankoku City!

For our team this time, we first tried the“Gobou Tempura”. This delectable dish isextremely popular with the customers. Kiyoaki’s wife marinates Gobou, or burdock
roots, in a special Dashi and Soy sauce andfries it into a great tempura. Next we havea dish that Kiyoaki was influenced by when
he tasted it on his travels, “Mackerel Sandwich.” Following that, his recent new dishmade using the rare small daikon (raddish),“Daikon & Cheese Salad.” Following thedelicious salad, Kiyoaki presents us withthe rare “Hot-plate grilled Shamo Chicken”(must book before coming) where he cooks
A rare dish, Hot Plate grilled Shamo Chicken.
Must book beforehand. 1800JPY.

Nankoku’s rare Shamo Chicken (game fowl
chicken) on a simple hot plate with naturalsalt, pepper, and organic olive oil. Accord-

36

Nankoku
Post
OfficeGomennakamachi
Tram Stop

rently in season would be Naoshichi (a typeing Kiyoaki, this simple cooking processof citrus fruit found in the south west of Ko-brings out the best of the flavour from thechi). Don’t squeeze the entire fruit, have afats and meat of the chicken. For condi-

small slice on each dish and squeeze it rightments, you have wasabi, citrus flavouring,

before you eat. I might sound bothersome

and salt placed in front of you.

each time I serve my food, but I definitely

In any dish you can see Kiyoaki carefully

will explain each dish to each customer. I

adding his art and skill. You can truly taste

Izakayamean if you are going to taste something

the high quality of the ingredients andHaebaru

great, I want you to eat it the tastiest way

cooking methods. Excited as we were, both

possible. Think of it as an added bonus to

the Cameraman and I agreed, “This is thethe price you pay,” laughs Kiyoaki as he ex-place to go in Nankoku city!” as we blissful-plains about his cooking.

ly went home.

●

●

●

SunShine

Gomenhigashimachi
Tram Stop●■
HaebaruNankoku
PoliceStation●Nankoku City Oosonekou 1707-3
TEL: 088-863-4351
Opening Times: Everyday from 5 PM to 10 PM
Open 365 Days
No parking available on site
37

The curtain rises on thealways evolving,
World of Teppan Dining .

Chapter 5・ Kochi City Harimaya-Cho
Teppan Dining

Oysters from Hokkaido; delivered year and stored in deep
freeze to seal freshness andserves only the best; KakiTamago Steak 700 JPY.

ミヤタヤ

MIYATAYATo always provide and display excitement, from the customer’s
perspective.

In Harimaya-Cho Kochi City, in 1-chome, on the 2nd floorof ALCO 2, you can find the green sign of [MIYATAYA]. We

Kochi Dining 10

go deep into the store and get a glimpse into the exciting

Places that are loved by the people
and the ingredients

The owner and chef of this restaurant is, Hiroaki Miyata.

world of this restaurant.
Hiroaki has a career far from the world of food, as he spent
18 years working for the tyre manufacture giant, Toyo
Tires. His last position before leaving the company was in

38

39

The key point to the MIYATAMAyaki is the half cooked egg in the middle. As eggs harden as you cook them longer, yet if
you cook them lightly the batter won’t properly be done. The balance and timing on the hot plate takes a lot of delicate
practice and is vitally important. 880 JPY.

40

the sales promotion department. Thanks towords he began the process. As he reflects

one could enjoy a great meal and drink

I source it from Hokkaido. One of my oldthat, just 3 to 4 months after leaving theon his decision, “I wanted to become thetogether. Hiroaki mentions about the time,colleagues from Toyo has a father who is acompany he opened this restaurant with apresident.” However, specifically he had“At the time, I wondered about what kind

great fisherman and sources them for me.

charming and outstanding energy. We ask

not thought about anything. Roughly 6of restaurant I could do? What was my

It is the same for the Oysters and Meat. A

this man about how it all started and themonths before he quit “I can push throughstrength and weapon?” What he had were

big problem I had was with my competency

reasons behind MIYATAYA.

if it is something I enjoy doing,” and hegreat connections that he had fosteredwith cooking in either Western or Japanese

Hiroaki actually had planned to quit anddecided to aim to start his own restaurant.

through his time at his company, acquain-styles. I had no skills. But I had my eye on

leave his job for about 2 and half years be-

With friends from his company, his friends

tances across the country that could help,

Teppanyaki dining. I thought it was simple

fore finally leaving. However, his superiors

from his own Yosakoi dance team [Miyata

and a route for the delivery of great ingre-

but a great way to enjoy the ingredients,

told him, “You have to train up your junior

Juku] and his close friends, he discovered

dients.

as I would grill the food with great salt andstaff before you can leave.” With those

he wanted to make a place where every-“For example, the sea whelk I use here,

pepper on top of a hot plate. I also thought,41

Ox Tongue Steak, a dish with two ways
to enjoy. Half of it smooth and soft andthe other a thick, scrumptious to the bitewith deep taste cooked splendidly on the
hot plate; a true deal for 980 JPY.

I needed something more than grilling, aand error. With the mastered mixture, theThis salt is only harvested once a year

cook the food, but when the rush hour

method that would catch the customer andbatter is set to rest for 3 days straight, toduring a dry spell. It is said to be a salt

came in with tens of customers, my hands

make them surprised and happy. I used thebring out the fluffy texture. Additionallyfrom 5 million years ago. The taste and thewould just fumble. I just had so much to dosame techniques I used when I was working

although like an okonimyaki, or Japanesevalue of his dishes go up another level bythat I didn’t know where to start. My Yo-

in Toyo.”pancake, the dish has a creamy half cookedusing special flavours that bring out thesakoi friends were worried for me and kept

egg within the fluffy batter. It truly is ataste from each ingredient.

booking up the seats every day to come tounique dish. Another sight to see is the

MIYATAYA opened its doors in the February

the store as customers. They even said, ‘You

“Kakitamago Steak” which involves lightlyof 2008. Hiroaki laughs as he recollects thewill lose face and completely lose businessbut carefully cooking a fluffy egg. On the

difficulties when he first started out. “It

if you fail on your new customers. We’ll

One of the surprising dishes is the MIYAT-

counters of this lovely teppanyaki restau-

was like the mochi rice cakes on paintings.

help you eat all your practice products.

AMAyaki. This delectable dish is a fluffy,rant, you find special salt for his dishes.

Whatever I had learnt and thought wasPractice on us!’ They really were my sup-scrumptious dish that uses no yam in the

They serve a rare salt from Lake Deborah

nothing when I started actually running theport that continuously came as customers

batter. This was born from repeated trialfrom the middle of the Australian outback.

store, it was completely different. I could

for about 2 months straight. It was only

Practice on Us!

42

43

through that practice that I was able tohone my skills” says Hiroaki as he solemnly
recollects about the start.

There’s a MIYATAYA in everyone.

Hiroaki describes his store, “Running a full
Teppanyaki restaurant would be too expensive for me and the customers. If I just ran
an Okonomiyaki store, it would be cheapand be of a lower grade. So I wanted to cre-Hiroaki only wants to create the very best of dishes for his customers and he has a rule that his menu only has his
favourite dishes. His beautiful wife lends him a hand in the kitchen with the cooking. His cute son also came for ourinterview. The old Japanese saying, [To embellish one’s own colours at home,] or to return to one's hometown inglory is within his family His younger brother, the third son of the family has started a branch named MIYAFUKU in
Konan City.

ate a middle ground, a casual place to dinethat you could relax.” From what he says,
his strategy is working. When the store

44

first opened it was mainly frequented by

an Italian restaurant. I’ll carefully look at

young people, of course we the aim for thethe store’s menu, learn from their cook-fairly reasonable Okonomiyaki. However,ing methods and take mental notes forthe store is now popular amongst women,reference. I then take what I have learnt

groups of ladies, businessmen for theirand evolve it for my menu and my cooking

meetings and on the way home and also

methods at my store. As I try and try again,

many older people. Some would wine andI’ll come to release my ‘AHA! This is good’

dine with their Teppanyaki dishes. Some

moment.”younger people would take it easy and lay-

MIYATAYA is constantly evolving. Now itback to eat in a café setting. The colours ofis considered a wonderful place to dine by

the customers have evolved and shaped theadults, the young and the elderly. Theycolour of MIYATAYA.

have come to love and enjoy his Teppanya-

Hiroaki makes it a habit to frequent restau-

ki style. It’s also a place to enjoy a goodrants all around the country and try todrink from his selection of fine wines to his

find a hint or something that could help.

wonderful mixers. It’s this environment of“I make it a conscious point to not go into

enjoyment with great flavour and taste that

Okonomiyaki stores. Instead I’ll go into

makes one return again and again.

●

7days Hotel plus

Vert Vert■
Miyataya●●

Kochi Yosakoi
joho koryukan●

Harimaya Bridge

Teppan Dining

MIYATAYA
Kochi City, Harimaya-Cho 1-11-8 ALCO II
TEL: 088-885-6703
Opening Hours: Lunch : 12:00 to 14:00
Dinner: 18:00 to 23:00 (LO 22:30)
Closed for lunch on Mondays and Fridays
Closed for dinners on Mondays(open if Tuesday is a public holiday)
No parking available.
http://teppandining-miyataya.com/
45

Photographer

KishinShinoyamaInterviewed by Kenzo Nakajima

World renowned Japanese Photographer Kishin Shinohara has been capturing [people, items, moments] since 1960.
An overflow of energy can be seen in each photograph. You can feel the passing of

Giant Interview 0042
46

time through his pictures.
We hear his opinions and feelings about film, his experience taking photographs andhis travels as he shares the eye opening experience of the charm of the Human Being.
47

I want them to feel freedom when they see the photos.
Ever since starting in Kumamoto, your [Kishin Shinoyama・Shashin Ryoku] has arrived at The Museum ofArt, Kochi, as your 20th exhibition on this long tour across the country and has seen total visitor numbers of over 600,000 people .To be honest, after watching the TV Program Jounetsu Tairiku, I have been
waiting and hoping that one day you would visit Kochi.During the publication of the Japanese version ofthis volume of Kikan Kochi, the exhibition is still on display.Is there a particular point of your exhibition
that you recommend to our readers and to not miss when they come to see your exhibition?

First, I don’t think you should read this article then come to the exhibition. Read until
the middle, come and take a look, feel the art, and after that if you are still interested readsome more.There is no specific way or recommended way to see my exhibition.
For example, if you took a look at the photo of Momoe Yamaguchi, depending on yourage you might see it differently. I think that’s interesting and it is as if you are communicating with the photo. That is the experience. It is why I recommend visitors to not research anything beforehand, or find out what happened during the photo shoot or evenlisten to stories about the picture.
Many photography exhibitions have a certain theme and have stories to tell.The pictures
are placed into a frame and it says “This is art, please look and appreciate”. It is different
in my case. I want to create a theme park of emotions, “Come. Take a look. What do you
feel?” I’ve put all my energy into each and every photo and there is power in each shot.
You will definitely feel something.

A wonderful smile and playful expression

Profile: Kishin Shinoyama

ma. Throughout the interview, he com-

Born in Tokyo in 1940. Photography graduate of Nihon Uni-

from the very expressive Kishin Shinoya-

fortably changed his expressions ever soslightly differently depending on the question and his thinking. Enjoying his discus-

sion with our interviewer Kenzo Nakajima,

the photographer for Ken-chan’s fanciful
photo diaries. (Currently published in thismagazine)versity College of Art. Worked at advertising agency “Light

Publicity” during college. Winner of the 1961 Japan Advertising Photographer’s Association, APA Award. Started free-lancing as a cameraman from 1968. Mainly taking adverts,

released a nude collection in [Asahi Camera] [Camera
Mainichi] and other magazines. His works started to claim
international attention as high quality photos and started

exhibitions overseas. Winner of the 1970 Photographic So-

When I saw the “Yuuzuru” with actress Sayuri Yoshinaga, I had goose bumps! I hear it was actuallysnowing during the photo shoot?

ciety of Japan Award, Winner of the 1973 Kodansha Editor’s
Cultural Award and many other awards. Following that for-mulating new ways of taking pictures with famous peopleof the time such as Momoe Yamaguchi and Rie Miyazawa

I hear many people tell me how they feel goose bumps. However, I think it’s interestingthat depending on the person and place, they feel differently.

etc. He continued on to release collections such as “Gekisya”
and “Shinorama” using new ways of expressing himself withnew techniques of that generation. As of recently, newly

Personally speaking, I wanted to see Hiromi Kurita wearing a sailor girl uniform.

experimenting with digital photography and videography tofind new ways of expressing in exhibitions. In 2012, starting

You didn’t see it? Really? Well, these exhibitions are relatively irresponsible. Dependingon the exhibition location, the photos do change. Since this time it is in Kochi more pictures of Ryouko Hirosue are on display. I’m sure that the next location will have different
pictures and most likely pictures of the famous person in that area (laughs).

from the Contemporary Arts Museum of Kumamoto, began
the national tour of his personal exhibition [Shinoyama

Kishin・ Shashin Ryoku・THE PEOPLE by KISHIN] at various art museums across the country.

So depending where you are in Japan, there are new ways to enjoy the exhibition.

This is the 20th exhibition, and each place has a different impression. It is all relative
to the sizes of each room and the structure of the show. Here in Kochi my exhibitionis separated into two rooms. At other halls, they will display photos in a path from theentrance while you explore each photo until the exit. Here you walk through one room48

Exhibition will continue until January 11,2016 at the Museum of Arts, Kochi

Book cover of the collection [Shinoyama

Kishin・Shashin Ryoku THE PEOPLE by
KISHIN]49

and hop out to another room and the experience changes, and makes it interesting.
To tell you the truth, I didn’t expect this exhibition to continue for so long. When I had
originally planned it, we chose Kumamoto, Tokyo and about 3 to 4 other places in total.
But after starting, offers started growing and the exhibitions were really popular. Thereare even plans to exhibit until the middle of 2016. I’ve prepared 3 different sets of photos for different places and also finished a small set of photos for small halls.

tentionally don’t take them (wry laugh). I wonder why.The traditional image of a photographer is one always carrying a camera around the neck and taking pictures everywhere
he or she goes. It’s again different in my case. Even when my child was born or when wecelebrated their 7th birthday, I asked for them to be taken at a photo studio.
You have someone else take pictures for you? Wouldn’t the studio be surprised? After all your wife is thefamous singer, Saori Minami.

Did Kochi get the small set of photos?

These are a big set of photos.
That’s great! (laughs). When I was a university student, I had bought the [Hareta-hi] photo collection. In
it, there is a photo that you took of giant wave during a typhoon at Katsura-hama. Have you frequented
Kochi to take pictures before?

I haven’t really come to Kochi before for Photo Shoots. I did come to Kochi to take shots
for a [SHOKU] Project where we took pictures of Sawachi Ryouri Dishes (dishes local to
Kochi) and another shoot for Kochi Castle. The big wave at Katsura-hama was probably
my biggest impression.
How did you discover that the typhoon was coming aground in Kochi?

I heard that the typhoon was coming into Kochi, so I just decided to head there. At thetime it had not arrived yet, but I’d also heard the waves at Katsura-hama were enormous.
When I went to see them, I was really surprised by them. That evening, the typhoon arrived. The winds were so strong, I was too scared to go out and take pictures. I couldn’t
leave the hotel and that really left a mark on my memory.

Using film to take pictures on a digital camera.
You’ve previously mentioned that, “I greatly welcome technological advancements”, so I thought you
used a soft filter on a digital camera. But from the private viewing, I heard you also use film as well?

I don’t imagine you to be a person who uses a compact camera.

Generally speaking, after 2000 most cameras started to be digital cameras. I started using
digital cameras before that period and I am very interested in digital cameras. I intend
to be earlier than those around me. Yet, recently I received a comment from someone
looking at me using a digital camera for my shoots.“Mr. Shinoyama, even though you takepictures with digital cameras your photos don’t look digital.”
Now how is that possible? Up until now I have always used film cameras to take pictures. Film captures everything at the moment of exposure, the aperture and every calculation. Each second, each photograph, I take care that it is ingrained into the picture.
Even with a digital camera I use the same process. I think that is why it doesn’t seem
digital. It could be the reason why the person said that. On the other hand, I could justbe stupid with digital cameras. From what I understand, people who shoot digital thinkthat they can correct problems later in post-production while taking shots. So they don’t
put 100% of their thoughts into each shot. In principle, those who shoot digital think topress the shutter and correct it later. Old-school style people like me however, take careof each second of a shoot and that is a major difference in principle.

I don’t use a compact camera. Now that’s an interesting question. I’m not sure why I
don’t take pictures of myself, and instead of actual biographical pictures of myself I in-

Referring to private viewing again, there was a woman that commented on the photo of Masako Natsume
and her scar on her neck. “With today’s technology, wouldn’t you be able to erase that?” Is this what you
mean?

Pardon me for this question. I noticed there is a collection of photos of your family. Did you take thesepictures yourself? Or did someone else take them?

Funnily enough, I didn’t take them (laughs).
Oh! You didn’t take them. Do you consider it wrong to do so?

It’s not wrong; I just do not consider my family as subjects “To take pictures of.” Surely, I
am just not interested in taking pictures of my family, I think.

50

I would be more surprised if they were surprised. It’s their job to take pictures (laughs).
That’s one reason I don’t have many family pictures. We have 3 dogs at home and mywife takes pictures of them. One of them recently passed away and my wife was in deepshock. I think she cried so hard that I couldn’t imagine her crying in such a way for me
when I would die. She took an amazing picture of the deceased dog. When I asked her“What happened? Who took this picture?” she calmly said,“I took it.” I think she took the
picture with a smartphone camera, and it was just so well taken I didn’t expect it. If I
were told to take the picture, I would probably fail because I am not that interested in
dogs.

51

That’s exactly right!
Film maintains that reality doesn’t it?

I’ll take out any severe bruises or birthmarks if the client asks me to, but wouldn’t it
be better to leave it in? Was there a story behind that bruise/birthmark? It becomes aworld where one can imagine while looking at it. I think that’s the result of film as well.
However, even if you take with film, you have to scan it to digital form and print it out.
As a result, printing from film is so rare now, not many people use it anymore, similar to
the 8x10 format. Didn’t Polaroid stop production? There’s only one filmmaker left, Fujifilm. Places for developing films are also disappearing. We’re in a situation that we won’t
know when film production will completely stop.
Were the pictures for this exhibition, scanned and then printed?

Yes, they are. Even this process is digital. People who remember photos on digital have acompletely different sensitivity towards film pictures, as such even the attitude changes.
It’s the passing of time. I think it’s completely fine.
In regards to the sensitivity you mentioned, in 1990 you had personally selected 12 Photographers forthe [Kin Mirai Shashin Jutsu] programme. What type of works were you interested in to select them?

Ah yes, I thought their thinking processes were interesting and selected them purely on
the basis of what I felt. We would go to their studios or homes, ask about what gear they
were using and ask them their thoughts when they are shooting. Because it was a TV
programme, I asked questions that the viewers would be interested in. There were parts
that were purposely planned for the viewers as well. Obviously the programme itself wasvery interesting and had many a discussion about the essence of photography. I don’t
think there will another programme like that.
Is there anyone that you are particularly looking out for recently? Or do you usually not think about otherphotographers?

Anyone, whatever they do, if they’re interesting, they’re interesting. That’s why I don’t
have a single person perspective. This person could be interesting, that person could befrom a different generation and likes this type of photography, even to those that don’tcare about what happens from now. Even pictures from the younger photographers, be
it famous or not, a professional or an amateur, if the work is interesting, it is interesting.
That’s it.

52

What makes something interesting, how is it
interesting, It’s all up to your thinking.
You recently had an exhibition in China. You’ve also travelledquite a lot overseas. Which place is the most memorable foryou?

I don’t think there is a single place that has had themost impact on me. For example when I went to
Rio in Brazil for Carnival, I was able to produce the“O Le Le, O La La” collection. I wanted to take pictures of the enthusiasm of the carnival using snapshots; it would have been impossible from my own
perspective, so I changed my thinking to accept
the power of the people of Rio. That’s one way Rio
has been a big impact on me. After that, we had the“Paris” collection.That was all mainly because of Eugene At get. I believe I was creating homage to Eugene, and imagining if in his generation he had hadcolour film maybe it would look like this. In “Venice”,
I went with the great author Junnosuke Yoshiyuki.
To me the city was a voluptuously beautiful city
made by the water surrounding it. It was a vivid
reminder of the world of Lutino Visconti’s “Deathin Venice”, truly interesting. Everyplace I’ve been tohave its own charm and interesting points that I try
to capture with my shots. It is very difficulty for me
to compare which is the best.
I was talking to the author Kappa Senoo and he mentionedthat you had travelled to India and because your condition
was not well you were not able to take any pictures. Can you
share with us what happened?

Ah, India. In truth, India and Pakistan are wonderfulplaces for photography. Everywhere looks like art.
Anyone who goes to India to take pictures will feel
“I’ve definitely improved in my shots!”When I cameback to Japan, and took pictures of Tokyo, everything was terrible. It is really difficult to find Tokyo’s
interesting points. There are photographers who
frequent India, but I’ve only been there once.
53

I first went to China under an invitation from the Chinese Photography Association withseveral other Japanese photographers. We went and moved in a group and saw what
they wanted to show us. If you separated just slightly from the group, a guard would
greet you and say, “You must not see this, do not go further.” Further if I replied, “Withthis much policing, I cannot take pictures. I want to go there” a guard would be following you and watching over you for a week after. I think it’s because they wanted to makea section of the city beautiful. So wherever you went you will find a fashionable town
filled with trendy restaurants and with people enjoying feasts, a totally unfathomablesituation. It was up to me to really consider if this was boring or interesting to find acountry going all this measure to do this. At that point, I decided to change my mind set.
I pictured myself in the setting of “Camera Kozou no Shashin Ryokou” (Camera boy’s picture adventure) from the popular “Shukan Shounen Magazine” (A popular youth manga
magazine in Japan) and tell the world of China. At this time, I was using a lot of closeup shots. I took pictures of the people eating fabulous feasts, but with different chopsticks, slightly chipped tableware, cloth buttons that were falling off, etc. Things that you
wouldn’t notice if you looked at it from a large picture, but if you put yourself close up
to the subject, you can see the poverty and problems clearly. I used the eyes of “Camera
Kozou” to see and take pictures and I expressed my impression of China through thatwork.
At last! I finally understand the mystery over the years of why there was not a single wide, landscapepicture in the collection.

That country and at that time. Further, you entered only with various conditions. The
challenge was how to think and change my methods to take interesting photos in such a
restricted situation. In Paris it was Eugene at get, in China it was close-ups, and in Venice
it was the sensual world of Lutino Visconti. I am quite the reckless Camera-man, but I am
sure there is no other like me (laughs).
I believe that your curiosity is the main drive that in each location you find a way to enjoy it. Do you havea secret or a method to keep and raise your curiosity?

It’s obvious: my name is “Shinoyama Koukishin”… (laughs). (This is a pun on his personal name “Kishin” with Curiosity “Koukishin”)
At the private viewing before the exhibition, you used “Kin-san, Gin-san, and Kishin-san” at times whenhilariously explaining your photos. Do you have someone come up with these funny catchphrases?
(laughs).

Of course there is no way I could not have thought of those terms! (laughter in room)(Reference is Japanese)

54

You mentioned that you never imagined yourself becoming a cameraman when entering Art College. However
you now walk the path of Japan’s top star of photography. Do you have any words for those considering becoming a cameraman?

Well, they have just got to start and try doing
them? (laughs). I am Kishin Shinoyama, the cameraman that started in the 60s and now onto the
21st century and has seen the change from film
to the digital generation. Within that time, I have
tried many things and that makes me who I amnow. I am the weird cameraman that generation
has produced. I’ve seen Japan come out of the
war and try to re-build itself and saw the sudden
and great growth in the 70s and 80s. With thatgeneration, media was invigorated with manythings. Within that change and stimulus, there
was a type of cameraman that was needed and I
just happened to be stuck in between. I believe
there won’t be another Kishin Shinoyama. That’s
why Kishin Shinoyama has nothing to say to theyouth. There is no “this” way to become or work
towards.
This might be a dumb question, so pardon me. I heard
from my photographer colleagues that over the Showa
period to the Heisei period and even into the future,
Kishin Shinoyama is a rare and unparalleled photographer.

It’s because I lived in that generation. It’s thereason why I am here now. Even then, I cannot
catch up with the youth and their generation.
The only way forward for them is to create theirown methodology and find how to express theirideas.

Up: Kishin Shinoyama at the tape cuttingThis has been an incredibly educational interview, and I
am not even paying tuition. I cannot express how grateful
I am to you today, Thank you!

*This interview was conducted with theand opening of Shashin Ryoku

Middle: Kishin Shinohara during his talkshow about his exhibition

Bottom: Book signing event after the talkshow

cooperation of the Museum of Arts, Kochi
on November 11, 2015.

55

A Message from a Man Living in the 47th prefecture

Designing Your Way of Thinking

Makoto Umebara

DesignerMusashino Art University, Visiting Lecturer

Episode 13:[The Shimanto Chestnuts] ProductKuriyama

A design with Wonder.

earth means something taken at the exact time to ripen or nicely come to fruit to
the mentality of a Japanese person. As such, the Shimanto chestnuts became “Shi-

For one week from the 21st October 2015, a local Shimanto business, Shiman-

manto Ji-guri”. A word with a twist that no one had heard before and gave birth

to Drama. (www.shimanto-drama.jp) worked together with Isetan Department

to a new form of communication. The wonder in the design of the word, with thatStore, Shinjuku, on their collaborative event, Food Collection. They celebrated

we circled the (Ji) ‘地’ in the branding of “Shimanto Ji-guri”.

unprecedented demand with first day sales hitting 700,000 JPY and in one week a

The name of the product became ‘Kuriyama栗山’ at the request of Isetan who set

total of 4,300,000 JPY.

a sale price of 800 JPY per box. To match the pricing that fits its name, the de-Shimanto Chestnuts or ‘Shimanto Ji-guri’ were already a product that was previ-

sign of the packaging was also important. The product comes placed carefully inously stocked by local stores. With the success of the food collection event witha clean cut wooden box with the (Ji) clearly labelled. As a result, the product saw

Isetan, the company decided to re-design the packaging and make it more appeal-

great sales. The design pierces straight through to the heart and mentality of theing.

Japanese.

Lately in Japan just placing the word ‘Ji’ in front of a word makes the productseem more organic and tasty, no matter where the product comes from. For exam-“Ji-guri Kinton”

ple, Sake from the Tohoku area, is commonly labelled “Ji-sake” and people start56

to crave a drink. Another example would be adding ‘Ji’ to ‘kaki’ (Oysters) with

‘Ji-guri Kinton’, or translated as mashed chestnut sweets, traditionally used a 40%‘Ji-gaki’. This results in an image of a delicious, scrumptious, natural oyster thatsugar and 60% chestnut ratio. It was always easier to increase the amount of sugar

was taken fresh and still hanging on to the rocks near the ocean. The word ‘Ji’ orto lower the costs of having less chestnut. However, you lose the essential flavour
57

of the chestnut. With this chance and after several tests, they were able to make a
successful sweet with barely 10% sugar allowing for a 90% chestnut content. The
feedback from customers was astounding with many saying, “I have never tasted
anything like this before!”
The main concept of the design of the product had to tell the customer of the delicious taste rather than looking cool or trendy. The circled ‘Ji’ signified a productthat ensured that all the materials used were from the local area and were all organic. Within the design a message that, “The product, the village, the farmers and thetaste was the spirit of best quality from Shimanto Ji-guri”. That’s how their concept
decided the brand. The next step was to create a system to sell from Tokyo throughonline sales.
CEO

There was a time when the chestnut fields were abandoned due to Japan purchasing
cheaper chestnuts from overseas. However as we entered into the information age,
Japanese consumers became more informed of conditions and quality from purchasing overseas. Some local producers saw this as a chance. There was a proposal to regrow the chestnut fields and furthermore not use any pesticides. The Japanese did
not want to consume pesticides and additionally did not want any of the chemicals
to flow into the Shimanto River from the soil. From there it has taken 2 years ofhard work with the guidance of experts to re-grow the chestnut fields, all without
using any pesticides or chemicals.
To turn the switch and bring back life into something that was almost extinct. That
definitely makes the job interesting. [If I carefully think about this, I am taking on
projects that are not making money. (Laughs)] But it is important to turn the spotlight on things that are almost extinct. It might not be the best decision, at times I
do need to sacrifice and accept some jobs.
My job does not finish right after my design project finishes. The relationship between the client and the designer continues. Yet, shouldn’t I be considered the CEOof this company? (Jokingly laughs).

58

59

Extra by Yukinori Dehara*Kouhaku Uta-gassen; an annual songcontest between a white and red teammainly consisting of popular artists,singers and talents; A big annual TV
programme for the Japanese at the year’s

end as they welcome the New Year andbroadcast nationally on the NHK, Japan’snational broadcaster.

第六回

Episode 6. [ Kochi’s Saga? ]Did you know there is a Saga in Kochi? I only found out about it when I was a student in High School and I
went to my friend’s hometown of Tosa-Saga to play. Others might have an impression of a confusing area
name, but I was deeply captivated by the men who live in Tosa-Saga. Those men where grilling something
in the garden as I arrived at my friend’s house. They were black; tanned by the hot sun, with their heads
cleanly shaven and their muscular chests armoured within thin tank tops. Their looks would scare a childaway. I attempted to greet them but instead I was confused by their thick Hata-ben dialect (a Japanesedialect of Kochi).“You there, hurry up and eat. Yea you!”(in Hata-ben). On their grill was a delectable selection of Lobsters, Crabs, and prime cuts of Fish. My friend’s mother then brought out a large dish covered
with scrumptious Bonito Sashimi and Tataki cuts. It was a fisherman’s taste that I had never tasted in mylife before. The men continued on with their godly, unfathomable discussion whilst drinking their beer as if
it was water. Occasionally, angrily telling us to eat more. I had thought I was lost and feasting in anothercountry.
Since then, twenty or so years on, my friends and I invite each other and head out to Tosa-saga every
year. I was taught how to drink in Tosa-saga. Whilst screaming and pointing, (Hata-ben) “You! Hurry up anddrink!” these men told me off. If I hurriedly started to drink, (Hata-ben) “Woah! Pull your reins, son! You’re
not in any position to buy your own drink yet. Don’t go finishing of the drink!” they would again start toangrily shout at me. If I drank more slowly, (Hata-ben) “Weak, these young’uns from Kochi city can’t holdtheir drink.” Provoking and stirring up a little fun. Then I would start to drink faster again and they would
scold, (Hata-ben) “go’ ‘me a taste~.” We would just repeat that over and over. During the winter holidays,
the fishermen would keep their boats at harbour and I met a rough fisherman with punch perm hairstyle.
This fisherman was always calm and silent. He scolded me only once. It was on a New Year’s Eve night.
My friends and I were stark naked, dancing and singing along with SMAP and their [Sekai ni hitotsu dakeno Hana], during the Kouhaku Uta-gassen*. The man stood up, gave each one of us a fist in the face toknock us sane, scolded with (Hata-ben) “Don’t show your puny things!” and left accordingly. The following
morning, the man came over to apologise. (Hata-ben) “It’s all good for young’uns to have a drink and be
merry, but don’t do shameful and rude things in front other lasses” and gave a small grin. He told us that
we had to be thankful to the mothers and all the other ladies that had kindly taken the entire day to prepare for the party that we all enjoyed. The men from SAGA are truly Manly and Cool!
60© DEHARA YUKINORI

Yukinori Dehara
Born in 1974 eating bonitos in Kochi and raised with beer.
Yearly consumption of beer = 300 Liters. Designed「きの山さん」(Kinoyama-san) of popular Japanese candy,「きのこの山」(Kinoko-no-yama), as well as various others for Nike, NEC, Tower
Records Asics Europe etc. Creates about 300 figurines a year
and is a Tourism Ambassador for Kochi Prefecture.

61

How to use it$¥

Requirements
1. Over 18 years old
2. Japanese Driver's License or
3. International Driving Permit (IDP)

1. access “DoSPOT-FREE” on device
2. open browser
Kind of a currency
3. accept “use policy”
4. input your mail-address
handling
5. receive a message
Shikoku Bank : USD, CAD, GBP, HHF, AUD, 6. input “authentication code”
NZD, HKD, DKK, NOK,
7. it’ s available !
Kochi Bank :Ehime Bank :Mizuho Bank :Kochi Prefectural
PoliceHeadquarters

In japan, there’re more than 26,000
Japan Post Bank ATMs available inlocal Post Office, shopping center andstation. You can draw Japanese Yen
in cash by a card published abroad.

http://www.jp-bank.japanpost.jp/access/access_atmcd.html(link at Japan bank instituion of partnership POST BANK)

NoticeSome Maestro cards with IC chips
are temporarily unable to makewithdrawals at all ATMs locatedin Japan.

62

Kochi Eki-mae
Tram Stop

Kochi Castle

Kochi
Police Station
Toyota Rent a Car

Marunouchi
High School

OtemaePark

HiromeMarketHasuikemachi-doriTram Stop

Obiyamachi Street

Kochi International
Association

Police Box

Obiyamachi Park
Kochi Honmachi

Chuo Park
Kencho-mae
Tram Stop

Nippon Rent a Car

Otesuji Street
Kochi
Daijingu
shrineATM

Kochibashi
Tram Stop
Times Car Rental

Joto Park

OtemaeHigh School

Kochi
Prefectural
Library

Kochi
Prefectural
Government

Kochi City Hall

Orix Rent a Car
Nissan Rent a Car

Kochi
Literary
Museumhttp://www.jp-bank.japanpost.jp/en/ias/en_ias_index.html(link at International ATM Service-JAPAN POST BANK)You can also use any of several Japanbank cards which have partnerships
with Japan Post Bank.

Kochi
Station15 min / once, 4th / day
Network: IEEE 802.11 a/b/g/n

Josei ParkJapan
Post Bankank
can usevarious cards“VISA, VISAELECTRON, PLUS,
MasterCard, Maestro, Cirrus,
American Express, Diners Club, JCB,
China Unionpay , DISCOVER”

can be made by credit card or
sometimes by cash

Notice

SEK, SGD, EUR, KRW

USD
USD
USD, CAD, GBP, AUD,
EUR,SGD, HKD

Payment

Kochijo-mae
Tram Stop

Ohashi-doriTram Stop

Horizume
Tram Stop

Daimaru
Department
Store
East Bld.

Kochi Harimaya
Harimayabashi
Elementary
SchoolHarimayabashi
Harimayabashi
Tram Stop
Dentetsu Terminal
Bld. Tram Stop

63