Kikan Kochi
Think & Action Magazine,
Kochi. Spring 2015 No. 56
Features
Brewing up Kochi’s food culture

TOSASHU Land

Giant Interview
Bar Room Poet Rui Yoshida
Kochi Food Report
Masami Kobayashi of Studio Okamura

春

SpringKen-chan’s fanciful photo diary No.39

Gentle Times
This is the English Version of KIKAN KOCHI.

Lured by the calls from the old ladies, I stop by and visit their stall.
Just like the soft gentle breeze
Not too strong, yet not too sorrowful
These signs take a picture of the past
I wonder when they started having coffee
Was it when batteries changed cameras into digital?
I started to imagine
Film could disappear soon.
In this picture, more than the camera in my handTime flows restfully by.

It is revised in order to shorten its length.
We do hope many people will readthis free online magazine.

CONTENTS
02

Ken-chan’s fanciful photo diary: Kenzo Nakajima

04

DOKU-SO-GAN : Hidemi Taike

05

Features
Brewing up Kochi’s food culture
TOSASHU Land48

Giant Interview
Bar Room Poet Rui Yoshida

56

Designing Your Way of Thinking /a message from a man living in
the 47th prefecture : Makoto Umebara

60

Kochi Food Report
Masami Kobayashi of Studio Okamura

68

Extra by Yukinori Dehara : Yukinori Dehara

70

Kochi Central City Map

STAFF
Publisher

Yoshihiro Nonami / Cricket
Junichi Kusunoki / Koubun

Picture: Kochi Castle

2

Advertising

Takayuki Mimoto / Koubun

Editor in Chief

Yoshihiro Nonami / Cricket

Editor

Sachihiko Oouchi / Cricket
Midori Ueta / Cricket

Ttranslation Adviser Jeremy Edward Tan

Kenzo Nakajima

DesignYumi Ito / Cricket

Born in 1959 in Kochi City. Lives and works from Misono Town in Kochi City. He is a Photographer for Tourism Posters and Various
Advertisements. He lectures a Photography course and conducts overseas photography seminars. He is a graduate of the Photography Department of Osaka University of Arts. A member of the Japanese Advertising Photographer’s Association (APA) and The Japanese Society for Arts and History of Photography.
http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/japan_kenzo

Cover

Hiroshi Kawauchi / Plane

Cover Art

Keiko Shibata

Photographer

Mikiya Kadota

3

039[ Missed Sentence ][ Changing to LED ][ Preparing to go to bed ]

f lap

flap

Shiki-buton

MakuraBrewing up Kochi’s food culture
TOSASHU Land

Pa rdonm
Tofu Ple e,ase

Kake-udonOh,really?

I don'tsell tofu

FloristZzzzzzzz"I see"4

Delicate taste that compatibility with the cuisine is well balanced.
Do explore the world of delicious Tosashu made in Kochi brewery.
5

26 years in sake brewing.
10 years brewing BIJOUFU.
Together with the president,
Aiming to make the best Ginjoushu*1
and capitalize on the benefits ofChounansui.*2*1 Ginjoushu: a type of sake brewed by low tem-

perature fermentation from white rice milled
to 60%*2 Chounansui: the selection of natural or distilledwater used by sake brewing to make the sakeas pure possible.

A 5 minute and 20 second battle.

I meet with the Chief Brewer of BIJOUFU, Akira Ohara, across a table at the Hamakawa Shoten Brewery in Tano Town. What I was about to hear was Ohara’s

Brewing up Kochi’s food culture TOSASHU Land

26 years (10 years with BIJOUFU) sake brewing philosophy and the reason for
BIJOUFU’s exquisite taste. After describing his background, he explains the mostimportant but basic art in sake brewing, [Rice Washing].

Glimpse of the chief brewer“We immerse the [Yamada Nishiki (Sake Rice)] in water at a controlled temperature after polishing and washing the rice. Whilst it is soaking I am looking at thecondition of the rice, I have to find the “This is it!” moment for the rice. I pull it

Chief Brewer - BIJOUFU
Akira Ohara

out at 5 minutes and 20 seconds, yet the following day when we steam it, sometimes I can find that I missed out by 5 seconds or left it for 5 seconds too long andthe rice has taken too much water and become too soft. If I get this stage perfect,
the fermentation in the tank afterwards is impeccable just like painting a master-

6

7

Usually when switching from breweries
there is a grace period of 3 years to get accustomed to the water, Ohara laughs and recollects, “In my case, it took me 4 years, it took
me an extra year”“For those of us who work in the brewery,
New Years is our golden week. From then we
can have take it in turns to carefully take ourleave. In summer we create liqueur using Japanese Sake as a base. We used to hire seasonal workers during the winter months, now
6 people work together and are all company
employees”, states Ohara with pride.

Because Sake Rice and Yeast can be easily acquired, the sake’s taste comes from the water andthe artisan’s skills and power. The water used in BIJOUFU allows the mold to ferment slowly; israre and extremely soft, which is perfect to make Ginjoushu.

piece. When I do not get it right, I have a hard

Nainan”.

temperatures of the breweries are all the samelation techniques, water from Nada in Hyogo

task ahead. This is why it is said that sake

The Koji mold is able to lengthen and extend

and maintained by machine. Ohara states that

prefecture was used due to its high nutrient

making begins with the rice washing and ends

its fungal filament inside using the water ab-‘Water” is the only individuality of a brewery

content in order to feed the Kouji mold orwith the rice washing. Looking back to yester-sorbed. With that it becomes a full-bodied Koji

and that it is also 70 percent of the ingredi-

yeast. With newer technologies, and the aim

day’s batch, I think as chief brewer the deci-with nothing wasted, producing wonderfulents used to make sake. The water and theto make Ginjoshu, we need to slowly ferment

sion to either immerse it for 3 seconds more

enzymes in the rough, or fermentation mash,

skill of the artisan decide the wonderful taste

the sake and soft water is better for this.”or 3 seconds less is where the fine tuning job

helping the yeast fungus in the processing ofof “BIJOUFU”.

The yeast fermentation is temperature-con-lies. In a way this is the entire process.”the sugars; all of this starts with the [Rice“The underground water in the land aroundtrolled and is first prepared at under 6 de-Ohara also talks further about the water tem-

Washing].

here, between the Yasuda River and the Naha-

grees. The first half of the rough is multiply-ri River, compared to the rest of the nation is

ing the yeast and letting it start fermentation.

a rare type of Chounansui. (lit. Extremely soft

Following that the temperature is graduallywater) The water has a low content of miner-

decreased. “The yeast continues to produce

perature. Rice continues to absorb water.
Even if you take the rice out of the water half-

O n l y d i f f e r e n c e i s t h e w a t e r.

way through, the water on the surface contin-

8

ues to be absorbed deep inside. That’s why on

Sake brewing and its technologies were craft-als, which allows the yeast to slowly ferment,

alcohol, this is a natural metabolite of the fun-occasion you can see rice still smooth on the

ed in the Edo period and breweries around Ja-that we can control, and results in the sweet-

gi, as it continues to increase and ferment”

outside but inside it is adequately moist, or

pan all utilize the same methods. You can also

ness and fragrance to melt and spread into thenotes Ohara. “That’s why during the latteras a Japanese saying goes, “外硬内軟, Gaikou

buy Sake Brewing rice nationally. The roomsake. Previous to modern brewing and distil-half of the process, the yeast strangles itself

9through its own production of alcohol. My

our 4 fridges are entirely filled up to the brim

job is to maintain that the yeast does not die,and sold throughout the year.”within this harsh environment, by controlling

Sake that goes well with a meal. BIJOUFU

the temperature. Finally in the end, separat-

aims to be meal sake and to borrow the words

ing the sake from the residue is an extremelyof Ohara, “I want BIJOUFU to spread within

important job.”

the mouth from a single sip. Sharp yet softand leaving a clean palate”. Ohara’s task

BIJOUFU;
Jyunmai – Daiginjo | Special Jyunmai | Jyunmai Ginjo

A wa re h o u s e f i l l e d wi t h 1 2 0 ,0 0 0 b o t t l e s .

continues as he seeks to create a sake that iseasy to take and leaves a clean palette, and a

BIJOUFU; Special Honjyouzou |SPARKLING SAKE; Bijoufu Shuwa~!! | Mai Usu-nigori“Inside one tank of BIJOUFU, there is 200 ki-

sake that spreads its flavor softly. Machines

lograms of yeast, 800 kilograms of steamed

replace people with heavy loads and can evenrice, 1500 liters of water, and that completesmaintain temperatures, but every other task

one rough. One tank makes roughly aroundthat is delicate, such as rice washing, steam-

1500 one Sho bottles (a Japanese sized bottle

ing the rice for sake, harvesting the koji mold,with roughly 1.8 liters) of Jyunmaishu (sakemaking the ingredients, stocking and laying

made without added alcohol or sugar). Thisin, and even the squeezing process, Ohara has

year we will be making 82 tanks to produce

to carefully watch over the brewery’s artisansaround 120,000 Sho bottles to be brewed

and fine tune. Japanese sake is a combined ef-

from October to April. The pressed sake will

fort of the artisan’s knowledge, technique andthen go through a single heat process andskills. Throughout this interview, we havebottled straight away before being chilled andbeen able to see into the heart of the Chief

stored. The week right before golden week,

Brewer who has gained the trust of BIJOUFU.

BIJOUFU LIQEUER;
Yuzu|

Pon Shuwa~!!

|

Yuzu Shuwa~!!

There are 15 types of Japanese Sake and 7 types of BIJOUFU liqueurs, each differing by the Sake Rice and the percentage of millage. Ohara mentions, “When buying one of our BIJOUFU from a store for consumption at home, it
is best to place it in the chilled drawer for vegetables.” Ideally, it would be best to put it into a thick paper cartonthen place it inside the drawer, but wrapping BIJOUFU in newspaper is also recommended.

10

HAMAKAWA Co. Ltd
Kochi Prefecture, Aki District, Tano Town 2150
Phone: 0887-38-2004
http://www.bijofu.jp/

11Planning, Product Development,
Design and Sales
A Tosashu fully produced by women
Overcoming the industry norm
You find the shining women andtheir Sake

T h e m o s t c a p a b l e p e o p l e we re wo m e n .
O TON A SH I L OV E S TORY
rosehip｜｜ ginger ｜｜honeyA selection of f lavorful liqueur in a gold crusted heartbottle and contains Hyaluran. Designed, thoroughly
researched and created tocapture the hearts of women.

KIKUSUI Co Ltd, one of many well-established breweries with a history spanning since the Edo Period, can be found in Aki City. The company is a leader in
new methods of production and rightfully the company’s policy is “Innovation”.
Leading with installing the first refrigeration system for a Sake Brewery in 1926,
providing the capability to create high quality sake in the middle of warm weather. The company also pioneers production in a variety of products other than

Brewing up Kochi’s food culture TOSASHU Land

Japanese Sake (Nihonshu) and Japanese distilled spirits (Shochu), such as Sakeusing honey or brown cane sugar as ingredients. This company’s corporate culture
is gaining national acclaim, through its new innovation, enthusiasm and energy.

A woman’s brilliance

Women. We investigate the power and enthusiasm of recruiting a strong female
workforce, and discuss this with the company’s General Manager, Kazuki Haruta

KIKUSUI Co Ltd, General Manager

Kazuki Haruta

Head of Planning and Operations

Yoshimi Matsuoka

12and the company’s first female manager, Yoshimi Matsuoka.
In January 2001, and with the liberation and change in the laws for alcohol licensing in Japan, Haruta took the opportunity and searched for capable people
to help him expand his client base and enlarge the coverage of his products in13

convenience stores, department stores etc.

Let us make it for you

After interviewing 60 new graduates in 2006,
he recruited a female employee who out ofSince recruiting the female employees, theall of the candidates was easily the best andcompany had big intentions to create a prod-

most capable. The following year, he recruit-

uct aimed at women, yet nothing was suc-ed two more employees that had interests in

cessful. Haruta and Matsuoka had resourced

the brewing industry, and so it continues. The

the ideas of the female staff members but thecompany has also put importance on improv-

difference in ideas was big. Matsuoka realized

ing the office environment and making it morethis difference and directly appealed to Haru-

comfortable, thanks to the female employees,

ta, “I want us to design it on our own”.

such as proper maintenance to the air-condi-

Matsuoka took the reigns and with the help of

tioning system and installing a humidifier.

2 other female staff members, the three wom-picture P14; A large line up of products that looks unique and fun, suchas the “Sake Jelly” which contains
Hyaluran, or the “Yogurt Sake” with
its variety of flavors, or “Hot Cup” aliqueur that can be heated to drink,
all are aimed to start a fun conversation at parties just for the ladies.

picture right; General Manager, Kazuki Haruta
picture center; Yogurt Sake Ripple
Flavor Collaboration with Kochi’s favorite yogurt drink, Ripple. Enjoy the
faint sour flavor balanced with thesoft sweetness.
picture left; Head of Planning andOperations, Yoshimi Matsuoka

en started to expand their network and start-

shochu with a sweet or sour mixer). We also

ed on the product development of a project

considered how to easily appeal the product’s

themed, “Sake made by women for women”.

features towards the buyer’s perspective; weMatsuoka recollects, “We researched andconducted everything from product develop-

started conducting symposiums nationally forment to sales.”women who like drinking sake. We also proactively conducted sample tasting at stores to

Sake to enjoy the momentcollect surveys and listen to the consumer’s

14

voices and reflect on sake making. At that

One product that gained the attention of thetime, we started thinking how would womenmass media was developed from analyzing thecome to love and enjoy drinking and whatcomments from the symposiums. It combined

they would drink, for example, sake to drink

the concept of desserts with sake to makewith friends in an informal situation, sake to“Sake Jelly”, sake that you could eat. Initiallyrelax at home, or a prize for one’s self to drink

the product had a lot of objection from withinthat isn’t a cocktail or chu-hai (a term forthe company, due to difficulty in controlling15

Currently the company employs and trusts women in the Planning and Operations division for everything from ProductDevelopment to Sales. At the time of the interview, Matsuoka was on maternity leave. The company arranges the environment to match the female staff, such as flexible work hours to accompany nursery hours and flexible hours to match childcare schedules.

16

and preserving the product, and the style of

Although the creative power is astonishing

the packaging. But after the product gained

Matsuoka mentions, “No matter how muchsteam with its sales, people in the company

the product was aimed at women, all we could

admitted to the benefit of the project. Overdo was place it on the Sake shelves, so we

100 different products have been developed

worked on the bottling and packaging to help

as a result of this project, such as the “Yogurt

it stand out against the other spirits and sho-Sake” particularly designed to fit the tastes

chu. This was the hardest to deal with. As weof women, or a liqueur that contains collagen

have around 100 items produced, there are

for women etc. Simply calculated they haveproducts stopped in between production due

developed around 17 new products in a year,

to low sales. I’m really grateful that the com-and each month there would be one or twopany recognized it as a point of improvement

new products being released.

and learning.” Haruta further added, “I see

it as an investment or a needed overhead. We

spectives and values can add to the interesting

consider what makes tradition is the creation

products being produced.”of new items that can survive within the mar-

On a final note, we ask Haruta about his ide-

ket and continue being sold for tens of years”

al Sake for the company KIKUSUI. Haruta

KIKUSUI’s innovation is gaining new perspec-

answers immediately, “Of course the taste

tives and instilling new values.

would be important, but I want it to be a sake

“It was when taking a woman’s perspectivethat can make the atmosphere and space of

into consideration and putting new life intoa place fun, just by being a fun sake. I thinka product which had failed for heeding tosake is a communication tool that crosses gen-the typical masculine characteristics of Sakeerations. Sake that can become the entrance

Brewing, that I hired an American Girl, Dana

which opens a world of fun for everyone.” I

Berte, who was interested in sake making.

can easily see the strong trust between the

I believed that by having a foreigners’ per-two during the interview from their incredibly

spective we could create more interesting

coordinated dialogue. I openly applaud and am

products. I just hired a staff member with aglad to see a Sake brewery that enables wom-disability. I also truly think that by removing

en to work with enthusiasm and vibrancy.

barriers a variety of people with different per-KIKUSUI Co. Ltd
Aki City Honmachi 4-6-25
Phone: 0887-35-3501
http://www.tosa-kikusui.co.jp/

17

As Director and a Chief Brewer, acouple and a 2 brothers keep a Sake
Brewery and a Japanese Izakaya
under the same roof, ARISAWA
Brewery in Kami City, lively.

Tu rn i n g t h e p a g e s o f a S a k e S t o r y.

ARISAWA Brewery, established since 1877, can be found in the center of Tosayama-

Brewing up Kochi’s food culture TOSASHU Landda Town, in Kami City, on road right in front of the station. Kousuke Arisawa, who is
in his 40s, has polished his skills nationally and won awards with BUNKAJIN, is the
Director and Chief Brewer of ARISAWA. He has carefully raised BUNKAJIN.

Sake Brewery and a space to drink Sake

Within the ground of the Brewery, you can find the Japanese Izakaya that is managed by his brother, “Bishu-hyakuzen [BUNZOU]”, where you can have a bite to eat
and taste of the best BUNKAJIN of that season. There are at least 18 Sake Cellars in

BUNKAJIN
Kousuke Arisawa
18

Kochi that brew their own Tosashu. ARISAWA is the first to combine their cellar witha restaurant. You can drink and have a chat, and start your own Sake story. This is
Arisawa’s style of Sake Brewing.
Kousuke Arisawa had no intention to take over the family business and was living

19

“I use Monobe R iver’s underground water in my Sake
Brewing. The gentle and soft
water that is perfect for fermentation allows me to makeexcellent Ginjoshu” remarks
Arisawa.

A R ISAWA Co. LTD Lineup,(from right) Daiginjo-genshu,
Jyunmai- Ginjo Liseur, Blue
Label Special Jyunmai Liseur,
Jy u n mai-shu, Jy u n mai-shu
Dry, Yamakita Mandarin Liqueur, and each label has a
deep artistic design, befittingof BUNKAJIN.

20

and working outside of Kochi Prefecture.

courses and consulting with the prefecturalprocess, I was able to slowly put an image ofWhen he was 24, due to his father falling

technology center.

what taste I was looking to create from myill and persuasion from the family, he de-

Could it be really that easy to learn Sake

Sake.”

cided to quickly return. Because Arisawa

Brewing through self-study? When I asked

had not even thought of Sake Brewing as

this to Arisawa, he replied that with 3 years

a profession he had no knowledge of it.

of study anyone can understand and move

He felt the danger for his future by only

ahead with Sake Brewing, however the diffi-“I want to raise the sake quality”. Arisawa

having a single line up of common sakeculty deepens afterwards. “For the time being

repeatedly mentioned this sentence duringwhen he went out to contact distributors.

I was able to brew some Sake that passed thethe interview. When he had begun making

At that time his Chief Brewer only knew

initial testing. I was quite pleased with myself

Sake, Japanese Sake was in a decline. The

how to make common sake. In much theat the time, but it was rather unimpressive

majority of consumers, the knowledgeable

same way Arisawa was also a beginner inand didn’t sell well. Whilst going out to sellelderly, were slowly passing away. The youth

the business. Deciding that they would

my products nationally, I would taste andonly saw beer, shochu (Japanese spirits), andmake Ginjoshu, Arisawa moved forward

compare other sake. By looking at the traits

Chu-hai (Japanese Cocktails) as viable drinks

with a large amount of self-study, sign-that other brands had which was not in mine,

and ignored Japanese Sake. He knew that theing up to an online course, purchasingor also what was excessive in mine, I started

decline of birth rates was continuing and hetechnical textbooks, attending short

to analyze each element and by repeating thatwas looking how to make the youth look at

To b e re c o g n i ze d f o r q u a l i t y

21Japanese Sake. He decided what he should doyoung people are starting to drink more Japa-

side. There was a time that, sincewas, “To raise the quality of Sake.” Taking

nese Sake. He mentions, “In my option, I had

the location was quite well placed

the challenge he has continued to strive tothought that even if the quality of the Sakein front of the station, I wanted toraise the quality. Sharing the same feeling as

was getting better, the young people still

start a restaurant on the grounds.

Arisawa. Other sake breweries in Kochi coop-

presumed that Japanese sake had a slightly

I was just too busy with Sakeerated, and through diligent application havehigher price tag than Chu-hai and had diffi-

Brewing that I couldn’t get aroundraised the quality of Kochi’s sake. Thanks toculty buying it. I had hired a student to work

to do it. My younger brother than

Arisawa, Tosashu or Sake from Kochi prefec-

for me part time in the winter. He mentioned

came and said he would run it.

ture has started to be known as high qualitythat he went and bought Japanese Sake. At

What once was perhaps abnormal,

sake nationally. As a result, light has begun

first he just bought the sake to bring home as

I tried to change the image of Jap-

to shine on Japanese Sake. “Young people area souvenir for his family. Yet, when he would

anese sake by serving BUNKAJIN

appreciating Japanese Sake more and drinking

go drinking with his friends he would contin-

in wine glasses. I timed the freshthe sake in the right way”. We continue to

ue to purchase it. I felt it was as a response to

brews with the restaurant menu,

hear stories of young people enjoying the fla-

my work when I found out that young people

so people could taste the sake. In

vor of BUNKAJIN.

regularly drank it.”a way marketing the sake throughthe restaurant. Apparently, people“BUNKAJIN has a juicy and very condensed
flavor. I know that its vibrant and resilient

W i l l i n g t o u n c o ve r d o u b t s.

have a taste.”flavors when you drink can keep throughout

22

from other prefectures come by to

the year. There was a long period where I

Arisawa is particularly adamant about his styleArisawa currently ships around

couldn’t sell anything, as such I wanted theof Sake Brewing. He lets the yeast ferment

60% to other prefectures whilst

delicious flavors to be passed on to people

longer than one month but doesn't process the

40% goes to Kochi. He findsthat would have not drunk the sake before.

sake much after the pressing stage. He bot-that with business he enjoys the(laughs) Please don’t become taste of maniacs.

tles and heats the sake quickly then quickly

process of making his sake, but

I think the balance in Sake is what is import-cools the sake in a -5 degree Celsius fridge. Bylaughs and shares his worries that

ant. Everyone’s tastes and likes are different.

doing so, the freshness and fragrance of thehe can no longer go on adventures

I want it that even if a person who likes a dry

sake can hold for the entire year. You can try

and sell his products. A family

taste can find the balance, that a person who

the sake on the same grounds as the brewery

owned Sake Brewery, Arisawa

likes a sweet taste can drink it and say, “deli-in the Bishuhyakuzen [BUNZOU].

works with his wife and a handful

cious” and vice-versa. I want that balance to“We opened the restaurant around 7 yearsof staff. There you can find BUN-

be properly found when you continue drink-ago. The land was originally used as a storage

KAJIN and a wonderful restaurant

ing. My goal is bring it to that perfect balanceplace for the rice silos and tanks of undiluted

next to it where you can sample it.

spot.”

sake. Gradually as the common sake wouldn’t

An extremely impressive yet small

Arisawa has felt that in the past two years

sell, it was just empty tanks standing side by

Sake Brewery.

ARISAWA Co. Ltd
1-4-1 Nishihon-machi Tosayamada Town,
Kami City
Phone: 0887-52-3177

Bishu-hyakuzen – [BUNZOU]
1-4-1 Nishihon-machi Tosayamada Town,
Kami City
Phone: 0887-53-3055
Opening Hours: 11:00 ~ 14:30 (L.O 14:00)
17:00 ~ 23:00 (L.O 22:00)
Closed on Mondays

23

Brewing Ginjoshu with Kochi made Sake Rice.
Successfully brewing Jyunmai Ginjoshu in 1997
with Yamada Nishiki rice grown from Sakawa &Kubokawa using the Nagata Method.

Brewing up Kochi’s food culture TOSASHU Land

The Conservation Brewery
TSUKASABOTAN Director

Akihiko Takemura
Chief Brewer
Tooru Asano

Planting rice in the region

Org a n i c S a k e l o c a l l y p ro d u c e d f o r t h e l o c a l c o m m u n i t y

In the not so distant past, Kochi was blessed with two rice crops a year when it had
a much warmer climate and had naturally better conditions. Even with two crops a
year and a large amount of rice, the quality of the sake rice had little to be said for it.
Before the last world war TSUKASABOTAN had been using Yamada Nishiki rice from
Hyogo Prefecture. Currently Sake breweries across the country are recognizing theimportance of using Yamada Nishi rice. Akihiko Takemura is researching, “As a characteristic of Sake it is unfavorable to be in that condition, Is it possible to grow Sakerice in my home town of Kochi?” Frankly said, Isao Takemura, the current chairman,
had a bad experience when trying to grow Yamada Nishiki rice in Kochi, when his
crop was beaten down by a typhoon before it was time to harvest. It was in 1995
24

25

Energy filled Akihiko Takemura

when Akihiko Takemura met with Terukichi

Tooru Asano talking about Sake brewing

R e a l E c o l o g y, To s a

Nagata and heard of the Nagata Method.

26

proof that it did work and by 1998 we were

OTAN is going strong and gaining popularity

able produce bottles of Sake. The sake fromas Tosa’s Natural Sake whilst slowly increas-“Nagata was growing Yamada Nishiki rice in

Takemura had difficulty in the beginning with

Sakawa had an elegant and smooth flavor anding its coverage. Sake that is, Genuine, Eco-

Yoshikawa Town of Niigata Prefecture at thenegotiations with farmers and finding thethe sake from Kubokawa used the water fromlogical, and of Tosa.

time. It is sake rice more prominently grown

right land to grow using the Nagata Method.

the Shimanto River basin, which gave it a dis-in the west. It is weak to cold weather and

The unique characteristic of the Nagata Meth-

tinct calm taste, befitting of the town. Eachthere are cases where entire crops are dev-

od was to bring out the best vitality of eacharea’s characteristics and individuality is wellastated when hit by hail. I heard Nagata wascrop by utilizing a minimal amount of water

represented in each of their bottles. As Sake

Equally responsible for following in the direc-

able to grow the crop in Yoshikawa Town,

and fertilizer. Even with the supervision andfrom Kochi, it is even more important to use

tor’s interests and vision is the Chief Brewer,

even though faced with such risks. I went to

instruction of Mr.Nagata, Takemura and the

Kochi ingredients. I was particularly adamantTooru Asano. “It is not possible to brew greatmeet Nagata to visit his crops and he took me

farmers were just fumbling about. The firstabout using local ingredients and believe that

Sake without being able to create a final image

to see his other crops around the country. It

year was just getting to grips with and under-

by doing so I would protect the industry andof the product”, notes Asano. To create thatwas then I realized the Yamada Nishiki rice

standing the method.

conserve the landscape of fields.”

image, one needs skill and individuality.

in Niigata Prefecture was incredible thanks“In 1996 there were 5 farmers in Sakawa

Eventually other suitable Sake rice such as“For example, when the director has a new

to the effective Nagata Method. I decided toand 4 farmers in Kubokawa that agreed to“Kazenaruko” and “Gin-no-yume” followed

request and consults about a new product, I

start growing Yamada Nishiki rice in the Saka-

join but it was really hard to incorporate theand began crop production in Kochi. Yet thehave to break each step down and look back-wa Region of Kochi using the same method.”

method. The following year in 1997 we hadforerunner would be Ginjoshu born from ricewards to the brewing process. Questions

more interested farmers after there was somegrown using the Nagata Method. TSUKASAB-

like, ‘How about the ingredient preparation?’

Sake as beautiful as Mount Fuji

27spreading across the field and slowly rising
above into the clouds. Just like the foot of themountain, I want the Sake’s taste to be plump
and well-rounded and gradually giving rise toa clear taste, an elegant taste like Mt Fuji. To
achieve that the skills of the brewers need tobe high.”
Asano, with his highly skilled brewers embrace Sake with their hearts and create sakeusing the spring water from Japan’s no. 1
clearest stream and incredible sake rice fromwithin the prefecture. Even in this modern
age of mechanization, there are many oper-

28‘How about the Sake rice?’ ‘What about theations that still need the delicate hands ofKouji-mold?’ I think about each step. It’s only

skilled people. Asano remarks, “Machines canafter we have carefully thought about what

reproduce the entire process, however when it

is used and needed in each step that we movecomes down to brewing, it is really importanton, ‘Right! Let’s do this.’ I cannot trust a pro-to rely on a person’s intuition. All the machinefessional that says, ‘I didn’t have an image but

does is moving the tools. Real skill comes

this came out!’”

from people carefully producing with their

Asano, now 56, entered the world of Sake af-

hands. Good Sake cannot be brewed without

ter graduating from university. Asano laughs,

skill. Each batch is completely different.” You“As a result, I know nothing else but the world

can feel the pride from Asano, as Chief Brewerof Sake.” We can wonder what TSUKASAB-

of one of Kochi’s biggest breweries, and truly

OTAN will Asano aim to produce, as he entersdignified by his presence.

his 11th year as a Chief Brewer. He aims toWithin each product from TSUKASABOTAN,

produce what in principle maintains the qual-

you can find Takemura’s wishes, challenges

ity signature to TSUKASABOTAN the “Crisp

and stories. Amongst them the Jyunmaishu

flavored Sake” but in addition, aim to produce

and Jyunmai Ginjoshu made using the Nagata

Sake with an elegant taste.

Method are specifically important, and“As crazy it might sound, I want it TSU-

behind them, the chief brewer who made it a

KASABOTAN to be as beautiful as Mouth

reality. A sake brewery filled with energy andFuji, not exactly beautiful but elegant. Just

atmosphere that you can’t help but say, “Telllike from the foot of the mountain, widely

me more!”.

Local sake made with the Yamada Nishiki rice through the Nagata Method

TSUKASABOTAN Co. Ltd
1299 Kou, Sakawa Town, Takaoka District,
Kochi Prefecture
Phone: 0889-22-1211
http://www.tsukasabotan.co.jp/

29

TSUKASABOTAN [HOTEI]司牡丹 ほていIn the culture town of Sakawa,
Stand the white walls of [Hotei]

Apart from the gallery, you can enjoy visiting the numerous historically rich buildings in Sakawa Town such as the
newly refurbished, Meikyoukan.

Brewing up Kochi’s food culture TOSASHU Land

Tosa Sake Brewery Gallery

TSUKASABOTAN [HOTEI]NISHIOKA BREWERY
KEIGETSUKANSHIMANTO RIVER SHOCHU GINKOUThe Sake Gallery [Hotei] is TSUKASABOTAN’s official showroom. It
is a salon and place to meet for people who adore Sake. You can enjoy
looking at each product and finding out little stories behind each item.
On the street in front of the gallery, from east to west you can find
[Brewery Road]. Along the road you can find a multitude of breweries
standing next to each other, spanning history from the Edo period. We
definitely recommend taking a stroll along this charming town’s street.

Tsukasabotan Sake Gallery [Hotei]�

301299 Kou, Sakawa Town, Takaoka District, Kochi Prefecture
Phone: 0899-22-1211
Opening Hours: AM9:15~13:00 | PM13:45~16:30�
Closed: Mondays, next day after public holiday & New Years
Entrance Fee: Free
http://www.tsukasabotan.co.jp

31

NISHIOKA BREWERY
西岡酒造店
In the fishing town of Kure,
Sake brewing history chiseled in 230 years

Shops around Honmachi Shopping Arcade in Kure,
used to be Kure’s Ginza Street where returning fishermen would make lively after they returned from sea.
You can enjoy a glimpse and the atmosphere into thepast, and discover the history as you visit the Nishioka
Brewery gallery and enter the cellars established in
1781.

Kure in Nakatosa Town, once the setting for the Manga “Tosano Ippon zuri”, is located right at the source of the beautiful
Shimanto River. Nishioka Brewery uses the beautiful and clear
water and spring water of Shimanto River to make their distinguished Sake. Nishioka Brewery has a history spanning morethan 230 years, with much of its sake being loved through thegenerations and countless being named from the area, such as“Kure” taken from the region’s name, “Junpei” from the main
character of the manga, and various other names that relate to
the region.
Inside you can find a gallery dedicated to sharing and speakingof the stories and culture of sake. Looking in the older sectionof the cellar, you can find on display the old pulley block on theroof, buckets and various tools used in the past. Also persevered
as part of documented history are old tools used to make sake,sake labels over the years, old account books, abacuses and oldposters etc. You can also see a portrait of Yusuke Aoyagi theauthor of the manga “Tosa no ipponzuri”. The place is not only agallery but also a store, and a place to taste the wonderful Tosa
sake proudly made by Nishioka Brewery.10th generation sakebrewer Daisuke Nishioka remarks, “Our priority is Sake brewing, so it is difficult to allow people to enter the brewery, but
by having a gallery, people can freely enter and see. People cansee old historical tools, touch them and feel the brewing process
and of course have a taste of our Sake.” The building, built in
the Edo period, has a strong historical feel and one can see theimportance when visiting the Nishioka Brewery Gallery, a highly
recommended spot to visit in Kure.

Nishioka Brewery Gallery
6154 Kure, Nakatosa Town, Takaoka District, Kochi Prefecture
Phone: 0889-52-2018
Opening Hours: 9:00~16:00
Indefinite closed days
Entrance Fee: Free
http://www.jyunpei.co.jp32

33

KEIGETSUKAN
桂月館
Enlightened by Keigetsu Omachi,
Drunk by the famous brand Keigetsu“Miyo ya Miyo, Mina Tsuki no Mino, Katsura Hama
Umi no Omoyori, Izuru Tsuki kage”(Poem by Keigetsu Omachi)“Look look, the moon shines upon Katsura Beach
Coming from the mother sea, the shadow of the moon”
Written in the 7th year of Taisho (1918), Keigetsu had
just returned from 38 years travelling, and wrote thisstanding upon the ground of his fore fathers. He wrote
this poem whilst walking on the shore of Katsura beachwith his favorite disciple Kotarou Tanaka, and it can befound inscribed to a stone monument on the beachesof Katsura beach. Many a traveler has been said to visit
the Keigetsu Museum, with a Ryoma Passport in theirhands.

The famous brand of Sake “Keigetsu” based their name on the
famous literary figure, Keigetsu Omachi. Lived throughout the
Meiji and Taisho period, Omachi was known as a travelling
author and scholar who wrote famous prose such as, “Bungei
Kurabu” and “Taiyou” to name but a few. It was once said thatnear the end of his life, he enjoyed his travels and sake.
To reminiscence Keigetsu, the president of Tosa Brewery has
created the tiniest of museums dedicated to the Kochi born,
Keigetsu Omachi. Found in a little corner of the Brewery, thegallery is built using unique Tosa earthern wall building techniques, the appearance is rather beautiful. Originally a silo to
store Sake rice in the Taisho era, it was rebuilt to house anddisplay the president’s personal collection of Keigetsu artifacts,
memorabilia, hanging scrolls, poem inscriptions, photos, pictures, etc. The witty entrance fee of purchasing a Cup of Sake
will make visitors enter with a smile.
“It’s not an exaggeration to say, ‘The president is in love with
Keigetsu’. If you start a conversation about Keigetsu and Sakewith the president, no can stop him.” laughs Hiroshi Tsutsui,a member of staff at Keigetsu. The chief brewer, Shinji Wada,
recollects his childhood and says with pride, “I’ve lived aroundhere since I was young. The Keigetsu museum was my hiding
spot. I grew up smelling the fragrance and smells of sake. Now,
I brew the sake as Chief Brewer. I am proud be a part of, andgiven the task of, continuing the history of ‘Keigetsu’” .
Do come and visit this lovely “Keigetsu” and “Keigetsu Museum”
loved by the president and his brewers!

Tosa Brewery Co. Ltd

KEIGETSUKAN

418 Tai, Tosa Town, Tosa District
Phone: 0887-82-0504
Opening Hours: 9:00~17:00
Indefinite closed days (please contact)
Entrance Fee: 1 Cup Sake (1 bottle 200yen)
http://www.keigetsu.co.jp

3435SHIMANTO RIVER SHOCHU BANK
四万十川焼酎銀行
In a genuine safe deposit box,
A unique bank stores and matures your Shochu.

[Yochochuu, Chestnut 75%] bottled in lovely
Minoyaki porcelain. After opening accountyou receive a bankbook and your personalname can be engraved onto the bottle.
The editor and cameraman were delighted tohave accounts in the bank.

(shochu: Japanese spirits; usually distilled from sweet potatoes)

The “Shimanto River Shochu Bank” does not safeguard yourmoney, rather your Shochu. The service started in 2011 when
the Sake brewery, “Mute Muka” bought an actual bank locationin the Taisho area of Shimanto Town. The bank currently hasbank accounts for roughly 378 people nationally.
“The shochu that is actually kept in the bank is limited to a
Japanese Chestnut based spirit produced by Mute Muka labelled‘Yochochuu, Chestnut 75%’. You can buy one at 5000yen, andthen we provide a deposit slip and a bankbook. You then canselect a term for your deposit from 1, 2, 3 years and transaction
account. With each fixed term, you gain interest, 1 year at 5%
for 36 milliliters, 2 years for 72 milliliters, 3 years for 108 liters and an extra small bottle” mentions Kotoe Hashimoto, thebank’s attendant and she recommends taking a 3 year term deposit.
Inside the building you will find genuine bank teller countersbut only find Shochu being sold. Behind the counters instead ofa bill counter you find an old distilling machine and a genuine
safe. It is a strange feeling to see both a bank and an alcohol
store in the same space. Turning to the windows, you will beshocked to see a multitude of old fashioned alcohol bottles displayed on shelves. There is a corner where you can find labels
and bottles from all 18 breweries in Kochi. Also displayed are
old toys, memorabilia and magazines.
In the Shochu bank, I found a nostalgic Showa space and felt an
atmosphere from bygone days.

Shimanto River Shochu Bank Co. Ltd
435-3 Taisho, Shimanto Town, Takaoka District
Phone: 0880-29-4800
Opening Hours: 8:00~17:00
Indefinite closed days
Entrance fee: Bank tour and shochu tasting course (roughly around 15 minutes), Free
http://www.40010shochu-bank.com/

36

37

How to enjoy Tosa’s Sake 1
Tokaji Liquour Shop

Sake Brewery Cheering Party
Tokaji Liqour Shop
Tosa Sui Shou Kai, President
Shoko Tokaji
Brewing up Kochi’s food culture TOSASHU Land

Along Tosa Doro, in the Asakura Minami
Town of Kochi City

How to enjoy Tosa’s Sake

You will find the proprietress of Tokaji
Liquor Shop,the Leader of the Tosashu Cheering Party.

Tokaji Liquour Shop
Tosa Shinshu no Kai
Tosashu Val

Spreadi ng t he w ord of Tosashu

Sake Brewery Visits
Shoko Tokaji is the proprietress of Tokaji Liquor shop, in Asakura Minami Town of Kochi
City. She is also the president of the “Tosa Sui
Shou Kai”(Tosashu appreciation and admiration group), a group of female volunteers thathas been selected to advise the Kochi Association of Sake Breweries with their Tosashu or
Tosa Sake. Further they work together withthe breweries in various tasks to support thepromotion of Tosashu, such as developing PBs
or Private Brands. In this edition, our special feature [Tosashu Land] we have broughtup each individual separately, the breweries
38

39

We were able to hold Tsukasabotan’s [Risshun
Asa Shibori] before it was sold out. That day
was the busiest day in the year for Tokaji Liquor
Shop, with the biggest orders for local sake.

as [Tosashu Appreciation Feast] where at least 100 people last attended. It's a place where we can communicate
with the public, so we presented and shared our recommendations for food and matching Tosashu. Even now,the prefectural association also holds similar parties.
To enable us to inform people that Tosashu is better than
Jyunmaishu, and because it also affects our business, weselect the best from within the breweries in the prefecture and develop our own PB such as [Suishou] and Koshu[Banba]. We have created a rule that during tasting of
the sakes, if one person should be against it, we would
give up on products from that brewery. The PBs then acquired an exclusive and limited placement in the market,
customers would line up in front of stores before opening
hours. It has been a few years since we have stopped
selling the PBs, but we still get customers looking for theitems nowadays. As a matter of fact, recently there has
been talk from within that we should start another PB, so
it should be sometime in the near future that a new one
will come out. We also need to constantly study. As such40

individual charm, introducing galleries thatSui Shou Kai.

we regularly have “Kikizake Benkyou Kai” (Effective Sakeare surprisingly close by, and Rui Yoshida,“Recently we have been dormant, but the Tosa

Study Session) and “Kura Kengaku” (Cellar Visits).

the Bar-room poet’s interview and last by not

Sui Shou Kai was started in 1999. We now

least, we should have the appearance of Shoko

have around 20 members. We are a group of

Tokaji. Here we ask her as the president of thevolunteer women delegated as [Tosashu Advi-

Tosa Sui Shou Kai and as proprietress of ansors]. Women like me who run alcohol stores,

Shoko Tokaji has run her store along the Tosa Doro roadalcohol store to share the charm of “Tosashu”,

work in breweries, hotels, drinking estab-

for almost 30 years. Since opening, to ensure the careand “Kochi’s Sake Breweries.” We also ask herlishments and even private people. Our goal

for all the Tosashu, she installed large fridges, made sureto enlighten us and explain all the informationis the promote Tosashu. To make the public

the lighting was controlled and displayed all her favor-

about Tosashu. First let’s hear about the Tosa

aware of its great flavor, we hold events such

ite Jyunmaishu, Ginjoshu, Dai-Ginjoshu and others from

U ni versi t y St udent s, t he key t o nat i onal broadcast

41all the Tosashu Breweries in Kochi. Tokaji(laughs). Japanese Sake is also seasonal, rightmentions, “This isn’t about the size of each

now, Spring, is the best time for the fresh

brewery. Everyone really put their blood andbrews, Shin-shu. In Summer you should looksweat into their sake. That means I have to do

for Nama-shu. For Fall or Autumn, I suggest

my best to sell them” as she names each andlooking for Hiya-Oroshi. Because of this ad-

every bottle and their brewery.

vice, I gradually increase my repeat customers“All the Sake breweries in Kochi are working

and in such a way, my store and I are able tohard and studying to create their own individ-

contribute to the Sake breweries.”

ual Tosashu flavor. From a simple dry to thickand rich taste, even fruity flavors. You are

To w a r d s a b r ig h t fu tu r esure to find the breweries that want to bring42

out their own colors and characteristics. That

Tokaji recommends anyone that wants to try a

feeling is starting to spread to customers. We,

variety of Tosashu, to go to “Tosashu Val” onas sellers, are being given the opportunity toOtesuji Road in Kochi City. There you can havesell amazing sake. I believe it is our job to passa sake tasting session of all the delicious sakethe message along.”from the 18 Sake breweries in Kochi, in little

Near to where the store is located, is Kochi

portions. You will fall in love and become a fan

University. Tokaji laughs, “The University hasof the lovely flavors of Tosashu when tasting

students coming from all over the country. To

them. Tokaji, who is also a member of the “Ni-ensure the message about Tosashu is passed

hon Mei Mon Shu Kai” (Japanese Prestige Sakeon, I believe it is the best to get them to taste

Association), understands the flavors of Jap-and drink it.” She often has university stu-

anese Sake from all around the country. Even

dents coming into her store and seeking forthen she is proud the share Tosashu and theiradvice on what to buy. She readily explains

flavors. “Kochi’s sake breweries are reallyto them what food and which sake go well to-

doing their best. I can’t see into the future orgether.

say that it is stable yet, but I’m sure with hard

“For example, this Jyunmaishu goes well withwork and persistence it will be fine” teaches

hot pots in winter. This Jyunmaishu is best

Tokaji about the bright future for Tosashu.

drunk warmed. It will warm your throat andWe were able to hold Tsukasabotan’s [Risshun

after the taste will spread within your mouth

Asa Shibori] before it was sold out. That day

and taste better. This sake is best with vin-

was the busiest day in the year for Tokaji Li-

egar dressed cucumbers. If you are having

quor Shop, with the biggest orders for local

Katsuo Tataki this sake is best, and so on

sake.

Tokaji Liquor Shop
6-2 Asakura Minami Town, Kochi City
Phone: 088-884-6766
Opening Hours: 10:00~19:30 		
Closed on Sundays and Public Holiday

43

Tosa Shinshu no Kai(Tosa Shinshu Appreciation Party)
The “Tosa Shinshu no Kai” or Tosa Appreciation Party is held every year in
April. All 18 sake breweries in Kochi
come to bring their latest and freshest
brews and open a party to the public.
This gives a chance for the breweries
to chat and exchange with their consumers and further deepen the public’s
understanding and knowledge towards

Brewing up Kochi’s food culture TOSASHU Land

Tosashu. This year’s party was held on
the 17th of April and was sold out.

How to enjoy Tosa’s Sake 2
Tosa Shinshu no Kai
Tosashu Val
Sake Brewery Visits

Drink and Compare, Kochi’s 18
Tosashu Sake Breweries
Located on Otesuji 1-cho-me of Kochi
City, “Tosashu Val” displays and servesroughly 120 types of Tosashu from the18 Sake Breweries in Kochi. You canselect the Tosashu you wish to taste

44

45

Kochi, A visit to the Brewery
and have it in 60ml shot glass each for a charmingly
small cost of 100 ~ 300 yen per glass. Also popularon the menu are the Daily recommendations, where
you can drink and compare a set of Ginjoshu (around600yen), Jyunmaishu (around 500yen) each with a

18 Kochi Sake Breweries make inspiring Tosashu.The skills from the Chief Brewer and the brewers, The rice, the water from the land, they bring forth the character,Earnestly producing wonderful Tosashu. A visit to the breweries is desirable.Yet, during their production, Finite are yourpossibilities to see, To check afore your departure is recommended.

selection of 3 glasses.
An excellent and popular store for Tosashu lovers, butalso the perfect spot for people who would love to try
and taste Tosashu. Cheers to your enjoyment of yourdrink and discovery of the soul within each Brewery’s
excellent Tosashu!

Sake Breweries open to public.
Takagi Breweries Co. Ltd
443 Akaoka Town, Konan City
Phone: 0887-55-1800
Open: year round 8:00~17:00
Entrance Fee: Free

NIshioka Brewery Incorporated
6154 Kure, Nakatosa Town, Takaoka District
Phone: 0889-52-2018
Open: year round 9:00~16:00 (Areas closed off during production)
Entrance Fee: Free

Matsuo Breweries Co. Ltd
5-1-1 Nishihon-machi, Tosa Yamada Town, Kami City
Phone: 0887-53-2273
Open: year round 8:00~17:00
Entrance Fee: Free

Fumimoto Breweries Co. Ltd
4-23 Honmachi, Shimanto Town, Takaoka District
Phone: 0880-22-0039
Open: year round 9:00~17:00
Entrance Fee: Free

Tosa Breweries Co. Ltd
418 Tai, Tosa Town, Tosa District
Phone:0887-82-0504
Open: year round 9:00~17:00
Entrance Fee: Adult/200yen (1 Cup included)

Mute Muka Breweries Co. Ltd
452 Taisho, Shimanto Town, Takaoka District
Phone: 0880-27-0316
Open: year round 8:00~17:00
Entrance Fee: Adult/200yen (1 Cup included)Kame Izumi Breweries Co. Ltd
2123-1 Izuma, Tosa City
Phone: 088-854-0811
Open: year round 10:00~17:00 (Winter: PM only)
Entrance Fee: Free

NB: Please secure reservations before going to visit.
Reference: [Kochi-jin] Kochi Prefectural Tourist Pamphlet

Tsukasabotan Breweries Co. Ltd
1299 Kou, Sakawa Town, Takaoka District
Phone: 0889-22-1211
Open: 14:00 ~Entrance Fee: Free

Terroir, all 18 Brewery Tosashu Val
1-9-5 Otesuji Road, Kochi City
Phone: 088-823-2216
Opening Hours: Tuesday to Saturday 18:00~23:30
Sunday 16:00~21:30
Closed on Mondays (In case of public holiday, days are changed)

46

47

Rui Yoshida, perhaps Kochi’s greatest drunk, has anamazing network of friends. He spent 10 years as an
artist whilst travelling with Paris as his base. After returning to Japan, he continued his work as an illustrator,
author and haiku poet. Utilizing his hobby of travellingand visiting local bars and pubs, he pioneered a trend in
local bars along with his connection with the televisionindustry. We start our interview with him, with somedrinking.

Life in Europe as an Artist
From your profile I see you were born in Niyodogawa Village (current
Niyodogawa Town). Do you still frequent your village?

48

Bar Room Poet Rui Yoshida

Not really, I rarely go home. It was by coincidence that I went backfor the autumn festival last year. I had always wanted to go when I
was little. The place is actually quite a distance from my home and so
this was a good chance. For my first time, I was really impressed withthe festival, so much so that I mention it in my lectures.

Interview by Yoshihiro Nonami

Was the winter festival particularly cold?

Giant Interview 0039

lI was born in the mountains, as such cold is nothing to me but I’mquite bad with the heat. I remember back when I was younger, there
was quite a lot of snowfall here. I also remember playing and building snow huts. I think it was normal to see snow piling up to around30 centimeters. I like being out in blizzards, especially that feeling49when the wind blows the snow up and around you along the trail whilst you are walking around covered in many layers like a snowman. (laughs) Even though I'm from Tosa,(Kochi) I think it was around 1963, I still remember that year had recorded heavy continuous snow fall around the Tengu Kogen plains, around 4 meters.
Rui Yoshida: Profile
Born in Niyodogawa Town, Kochi. Illustrator, Essayist, Actor,

Recollecting your days, as a painter you first moved from Niyodo to Kyoto and then further
overseas and lived in Paris for 10 years?

Talent. Hosts the program 「吉田類の酒場放浪記」“Yoshida Rui’s
Bar-room Adventures” and writes about travel and drinking
culture. Chairman of the Haiku Club “舟 Fune (Boat)” Tourist
Ambassador for Kochi Prefecture and Niyodogawa Town.

I had heard of a couple from Kochi who moved to, lived, and painted in Paris. Also mypainting teacher also had a similar experience. From that connection, I also borrowed
an apartment and started living in Paris. I aimed to always have my works displayed in
Le Salon (a popular exhibition for professionals to display their work in Paris) every
year, aiming to be the same as my favorite painters. At that time, the trend was towards
Surrealism and the paintings followed that genre as well. My favorite painters had
works in various cities around Europe, such as London and cities around Spain, so I had
to visit and see them. My current works are completely different from that time, but
recently I had the opportunity to be on a TV program called, “Sekiguchi’s Life Poems”.
It has been a while since I pulled out my Surreal Art work from that time. Nowadays, I
work on one-stroke sketches, creating cute looking characters that I hope give the audience a feeling of peace when they see them. (laughs)
Did you feel enriched living in Paris?
I believe so. I just drew what I wanted to draw and if I had some free time I would travel. Those were the days where I often went travelling. In London, there is the famous“Tate Gallery”. There you can find works from Turner and many other famous, and myfavorite, painters. Of those works, I really like and wanted to see the works of Richard
Dadd. My friends at the time were studying at Art School in Paris and because it was
open to the public I went quite often, I think I went around 20 times. In fact, there
were times that people thought I was an exchange student, but I was not there on exchange. (laughs)
So you just went and became an exchange student then? (Laughs)
It was the most famous public art school in Paris, but it was open for the public toenter and exit. With that, I didn’t only follow after my favorite painters. I was able tounderstand and learn about art to produce and paint with my own style. Maybe it isunique to people from Kochi, but when I was in school as a child my teacher often
taught and enforced, ”Individuality, 唯一無二 (Yui itsu mu ni) or one and only. It is important to keep Individuality”. I have much to be thankful to for the influence of thatteacher.

50

51

The power to be instant friends
Upon entering a bar

Why did you become mainly an illustrator after returning from overseas?
It isn’t easy finding the right painting and until then it takes time. With illustrations it’sa one-shot. If you get placed on the right magazine and make it big, all the other magazines come after you. I’m quite handy with my painting skills and because I can designand draw everything from paintings to manga, I have become flooded with a lot ofwork to do now.
I realized that if I continued this lifestyle I would collapse from fatigue, it was then that
I met and found Haiku Poems. It was when a group of editor friends invited me to an"Imonikai" (an outdoor party where Japanese cook various vegetables, especially potatoes). We walked along the road whilst composing short poems. People from Niyodo
have a fine taste for Haiku Poems and it is common to see Haiku meetings. My mom
often composed her own poems. The rhythm of 5-7-5 always resonated in my ears andbecause I was in the environment, it most likely became second nature. So when I naturally came up with a serious Haiku poem, my editor friends were all dumbfounded(laughs). That’s when it came to me. Since that day, I have been further fascinated by
the four seasons, and the beautiful nature of Japan.
I visited a writer friend who had moved and lived in the town of Nayoro, deep in themountains of Hokkaido. During this period I would travel to Tokyo once a month for
my illustration works before returning to the mountain town.

when drinking so I stood out. I don’t think
many bars would say they don’t know
me. Well eventually after I went on the TV
program, without knowing it I suddenly
became somewhat of a representative ofJapan’s bar world.
At the time, the majority of the bars did
not have a person to be the focal point.
If you didn’t have a substantial career, it
would be impossible to come straight
through the front door and get coverage.
It’s almost a herculean task to be able tobecome a friend that anyone would justopen up and talk to in an instant, don’t
you think? Japanese people don’t really
excel at having social skills and even within the alcohol lovers and drinkers it’s notuncommon to see. But perhaps because
I come from Kochi, I’m an optimist andeasy going or rather a very cheerful person.

Living life pursing one’s own interests,
Is it misfortune or is it luck?

How did you come into contact with the TV program “Sakaba-hourouki” (Adventures of thelocal Pubs) whilst continuing that lifestyle?
After returning from Europe, whilst I was looking for a place to have a meal, I stumbled
across a local standing bar in Monzennaka Town, Tokyo. It had an amazing menu withfresh tuna and seafood daily. I decided I would return every day. It just so happened
that at the time there was a boom of standing bars. I became interested in the people
that would custom these local bars, and I wrote a book about it. The book had a great
following, and I that is how I was offered to become the host for the “Sakaba-Hourouki”
program.
Do you and the director of the show, inspect and investigate the bars before choosingthem?
For 14 years, I lived in Toyou Town in the Ko-tou District of Tokyo. In the beginning, we
visited all the bars that I was good friends with. I always tried to go out looking unique

52

What do you think is the charm of Tosa Sakeor specifically do you think there is a favorite?
Kochi’s local sake, was often said to becrispy and dry and were mostly labelled
as drinks for men, but recently I think thatis a misjudgment. The other day, I visited“Kame Izumi” and had a taste of theirsake.Their sake was really delicate in taste
and it was fragrant. Kochi has a large variety of Sake. As Sake to have with a meal
it’s rough around the edge but very goodto drink. I think Kochi’s drinking culture

Conducted during the festival “Tosa no
Okyaku”, during the event “土佐の夜楽

Tosa no Yagaku (Happy Night)”. All theparticipants enjoyed cuisine and drinks
provided “濱長 Hamachou”.

53This interview was conducted onreally stands out and needs to have a special mention nationally. This was when I went
to the “Dorome Matsuri”. I had suddenly been forced to participate in competing in
chugging drinks. I had a few interviews afterwards, so I asked to not be given a man’s
usual “一升” (Isshou, around 1800ml) glass but the usual for women with a “五合” (Gogou, around 900ml) glass. I took around 16 seconds to clear my glass while “Katsuo” theGeisha next to me cleared it in 10 seconds flat without a spilling a single drop.

March the 13thth, at the restaurant“濱長 Hamachou” In cooperation
with Hamachou.

Currently your program “Yoshida Rui’s Ruigoroku“ airs online in the 4 prefectures of Shikoku. Do you think it is refreshing to come back occasionally to Kochi to broadcast yourprogram?
I think the radio is another way that allows me to express myself. I return back to Kochi
more often and of course get to taste lovely Sake. When we record for the radio, 3 takes
are taken inside the studio and 1 take is done at the bar or restaurant. Just the other day,(laughs) we had a blast of a time, first we drank and recorded at “珍々亭 Chinchin-tei”.
After that we went to “ときわ Tokiwa” to drink and have a bite to eat. Then we moved
on to “バッフォーネ Baffone” and had 2 bottles of wine and Genovese. At the end of thenight we went to a Yatai (Japanese word for a food stall) and had some udon noodles.
After wrapping up and going home, I realized I had gained 2 kilograms.
What Kochi calls a “Full Course”? (laughs)
Exactly (laughs), I ended up only realizing after doing it. I’ve been thinking about it andas a result I’ve started to go to the gym to run, and head to the sauna to sweat and tighten up in order to prepare for the next night on the town.
You recently wrote your new book�(Sakaba shijin no ryuugi) “The style of the Bar-room
Poet”. This book is a travel essay and you mention your perspectives on life.
This book contains around about 5 years’ worth of serialized work that I had the honorof working on with the Niigata Nippou and with a poet friend working at the Hokkaido Shinbun. Originally planned to be a short novel of a period of a year, the serialization
has been given the green light to go on. As a result, although this means I’ll be muchbusier from now on, I will be able to express more of myself and that’s what I love.
Well, if I didn’t continue to do what I love, it could be to my ruin or prove to be fortunate. I’ve lived without thinking about too much, and I think that’s great.
Thank you so much for your time today.

54

Rui Yoshida’s lastest book「酒場詩人の流儀」(Sakaba shijin no
ryuugi) “The style of the Bar-room Poet”. Essays on a Man’s
ﬁne tastes, is available from「中央公論新社」（Chuo Kouron shinsha)
for 780yen + tax.

55

A Message from a Man Living in the 47th prefecture

Designing Your Way of Thinking

Makoto Umebara
Episode 10:

DesignerMusashino Art University, Visiting Lecturer

Deckle edged【Letterpress Print Calenda】
110mm×1000mm
Selling by Naigai Tengu Choushi.Co.

[Letterpress Print Calenda] ProductThe cry for “I’ll be given help!”

5 years ago, I received a phone call from a lady working for a company called, “内内外典具帖紙, Naigai Tengu Choushi”. At that time, I was not accepting any new projects

to work on, so I politely refused her request. Then I heard a scream over the receiver, “I was told if I called here, I would get some help!!!” I laughed a bit surprised.
I smiled wryly to myself, what sort of a person would say such thing in all sincerity. So we decided to perhaps meet in 3 months. Time passed and they came. They
were two sisters around 60 years old. They had taken over the family’s businessfrom their father. I went to visit their company, located in Ino Town along the Niyodo-gawa River. It was a paper mill that had seen the passage of quite a few seasons.
From inside you could see out through the cracks in the wall. The mill had done wellduring the period when typewriter paper was a large import but ever since the typewriter has disappeared, it had been in decline. It felt as if the company survived asa supplier of minute and specialist paper materials only. Looking at the paper products made at the mill, I saw a machine that could make paper continuously for a few
56

Note: in Japanese, the word calendar is usually written in
the Katakana “カレンダー” but has been shortened here.

57

kilometers. To start with, I tried to make a product out of the deckle edged rolled paper as“土土佐まき和紙 TOSA Maki Washi (Rolled Japanese Paper)”Not “Calendar” but “Calenda”

I had the cue to design the [Letterpress Print Calenda] after meeting a lady from Tokyo
who loved “TOSA Maki Washi”. I saw her take 12 months worth of blocks and use a handprinter to print a calendar on to the Washi paper. I thought this could be a product if I
properly designed it. All the 12 months are in line so you can quickly look at the year, yet
it had a modesty that did not make it stand out. It is big enough to fit a wall column anddoesn’t take much space. I quickly gave the 2 sisters my design and also went to discuss
the product with a well-established store that handles Japanese Washi paper products in
Ginza, Tokyo. I received a large number of orders from that store, so they will be making
2016 Calendars to sell in May. These are not “Letterpress Print Calendars” but rather[Letterpress Print Calenda]. The nuance of the word, that makes you stop and re-thinkwith a “?” is communication tool that catches your eye. Letterpress Print as a method is in
decline around the world. Just like the deckle edged rolled Japanese Washi paper. In short,
it is a combination of negatives, the theory that two negatives would cancel each otherout and become a positive. [Letterpress Print Calenda] is a result of this theory, just likeother good examples of negative + negative=positive. Katsuo Tataki (a famous dish from
Kochi) combined inefficient pole fishing for Bonito and the inefficient straw burning cooking method or the Sunahama Art Museum in Ogata, Kuroshio City, which was born from alarge empty beach and T-shirts floating being hung by locals.
Abundance in livelihood

When a product receives a high level of coordination, the product starts to gain quality.
“Quality materials” and “Quality techniques” are combined to give birth to a new value
for the [Letterpress Print Calenda]. Two disappearing arts are taken and joined together
to find new value and become a product that becomes part of one’s livelihood. This typeof thinking is rare to find in the current world that prioritizes the economy above all else.
The calendar is not a massively profitable product, but I think that this kind of perspective, abundant livelihood , is important. Creating things not using “Knowledge” rather
using “Intelligence”. This might sound awkward coming from me, even though I designed
it, but I actually want one (Laugh).

58

59

Tosa bergamot the first produced in Japan,
Soon it will debut nationwide.

Kochi Food Report
Masami Kobayashi
of Studio Okamura

60

Changing the power of vegetables into the power of community,
A representative of the studio Okamura, Masami Kobayashi.
Exchanges with farmers, that of processed products, future expansion,
The first time It was produced in Japan,
I've heard him about TOSA bergamot.

61

”I fell further deeper in love with Kochi, because I met these wonderful farmers” (vigorously) states Kobayashi.
TOSA Bergamot products use Ougon Shouga(Golden Ginger) produced from Kochi Prefecture. The salt used in in the products is all
natural. Using the “Tosa Shiomaru”, Kochi salt
dried using only natural sun drying techniques
and without any mechanical processing.

Cannot help without skills.

62“What was a mere parking lot in 2009, is now

runo, Kochi City, he also started to combine

no choice but to study.” It was after he met athe countryside, we could effectively use theHaruno Workshop. One of the place’s usages

his interest in food by starting a Bakery Cafe,

certain tomato farmer that plans turned dra-

tomatoes to make sauces and use the sauces tostarted with a need to provide a convenient“Haruno TERRACE” in his studio. Finding suc-

matically to vegetable manufacturing.

create a trend in restaurants nationally. The

place for a fresh food market where locals

cess he also started another Bakery Café “Har-Kobayashi adds, “There are times when one

breed of tomato was quite hard to work withcould have direct access to the farmers. Asvest” and a restaurant specializing in ginger

can forget that Kochi is actually the birthplace

so we had to go through several attempts tofarmers started to provide fresh vegetables

called, “林のヤモリ Hayashi no Yamori”. Uti-of the tomato boom, because the majority ofgrow them using trial and error.”from the farms for the Workshop, a little mar-lizing his “Realization” Kobayashi has gained

the tomatoes produced here are regular to-

ket also developed inside. After a discussion

accreditation as a “Senior Vegetable Somme-

matoes. The farmer that I was talking to was

between the owner and the farmers sharinglier”. Kobayashi laughs wryly “I wanted toa large-scale tomato producer and wanted totheir thoughts and ideas, ideas started from awork with the farmers. After deliberation, we

find a stable way to use his tomatoes for man-

「はるのTERRACE野菜工房」(Haruno TERRACE“realization” of how can they help each oth-were sure that we had to produce an amazing

ufacturing. It started with imported cans ofVegetable Studio) was built in September

er.” As representative of Studio Okamura,product using the vegetables they produced.

San Marzano tomatoes. I used these tomatoes

2011 to manufacture products using local

Masami Kobayashi, is a proven businessman.

It was then that I was faced with the fact thatin the sauces for my restaurant. I thought if it

agricultural produce. The latest technologies

First starting off with a Photo studio in Ha-

I had no knowledge or skills to help. So I had

was possible to grow San Marzano tomatoes inintroduced by research institutions were in-

The measure of what is right.

63

This year’s Tomato Summit has been another great success.

64

stalled into the studio. The technology en-

cross the line to continue farming.’ I’m con-abled manufacturing of local produce without

stantly conscious about the profitability of the

any loss of vitamins. This, stated Kobayashi,

farmers. Some might call it Fair Trade. That’s“is value added to the products”. The studio

why we develop and design our product toalso has a strong obsession with the products.

appeal to a target profile and niche market,

By Involving vegetable producers, vegetableusing uncommon technology for uncommon

sommeliers, and research institutions togeth-

local produce. (Laughs) I guess in other words

er, the studio creates and develops products

the industrial gap.”that enhance and keep the natural taste that

Kobayashi discovered during his activities in

Kochi produces safely without using chemical

trying to enlarge the market that just leaving

seasoning or preservatives.

the products on the shelves did not sell them,

Kobayashi first determined that three key-

“I realized there was a need for a mediator, awords would decide his product development,

concierge service of sorts, that can share the[Tomato – Ginger - Citrus].

value of the product.” Kobayashi has started“I decided that selling the products and ac-

to see new faces of local producers, the value

quiring a stable source of produce was of mostof adding a background, and the effect on theimportance. That development and branding

local community. He strives to understand andallowed the producers a base where they could

work together with the producers and shift

see the future of their products. One line thatthe focus to appeal to stores that want to sell

constantly rang in my ears was ‘If I don’t earn

their products. The aim is to have a stable anda certain amount from this harvest, I can’t

continuous selling point, rather than making

65a large profit, for the benefits of the farmers.

ine) species will disappear’. They always add

also be a fair for Japanese confectioners using“It is because we placed a goal for ‘stable andthat, “What are you going to do? It is possible‘TOSA Bergamot’. All of this could not happen

long lasting selling practices’ that there is nothat we won’t be able to produce these fruits

without the understanding of the Japanese

need for OEMs, ODMs* or Self Branding of

anymore.” I felt that this was a warning andand Western confectionaries.”

products” states Kobayashi.

started thinking of a product I could develop.

During the photo shoot for the ‘TOSA Berga-

He adds, “of course, as a company, profitabil-

The upper stream area of Niyodogawa is a tea

mot’ product line, Kobayashi’s “The measure

ity is important. Within a company each prod-

region that also produces a precious breed ofof what is right or not is clearly more import-

uct is justified by its measure of profitability

black tea. We started growing Bergamot or-ant” reverberates in the mind. With humble

and its measure of what is right or not. To

anges 5 years ago in the region. The Italian

beginnings as a direct local market in a park-

continue production, I believe the latter mea-

bergamots need only very little rain and warm

ing lot, the power of fresh vegetables became

sure is clearly more important. There is a risetemperatures. We had many trials to work tostrength to connect people. In the middle,

in stores that we work with that understandovercome a huge hurdle, the vast amount of

you can find Kobayashi. A man who acts withand share the same feeling for the products.”

rain in Kochi.

conviction and his results can be seen flying

We were the first nationally to be able to har-across the country.

Sharing the same thoughts.

vest Bergamots and the quality was superb.
Once I smelt the fragrance I decided to sell

66

Within Studio Okamura’s walls, Kobayashi

them. Last year, I planned and presented theshares space with the staff offices of “Tomato

project to the ISETAN department store in

Summit” and “Vegetable Sommeliers of Ko-

Shinjuku, Tokyo. I presented it as, “a Proj-chi”. Of course, Kobayashi started all theseect in challenging the gloomy future of theoffices at the start as part of his activities.

Japanese orange farmers”. After some time,“Next for me is the world of Citrus and Ber-I received a reaction from the company, “Wegamot” states Kobayashi, as he explains what

ISETAN, Shinjuku, agree and empathize withhis plans are the next phase in his activities.

this thought and project.” They covered the“This year, I want to make it the year for the

product and gave a 3 page special feature in

Bergamot. It has taken me 5 years to fully

the ISETAN magazine. With their help, ISE-

develop and cultivate. My fellow citrus or

TAN has started a drive to reach out nationallyorange farmers mention this to me, ‘If theto famous Japanese and Western confection-

average yearly temperature rises just above

ers and produced an event, “里山未来フード

another 0.5 degrees, the Citrus Unshiu (com-Satoyama Mirai Food” (Upcoming food frommonly known as satsuma mandarin or tanger-

your hometown). From March 25th, there will

*OEM: original equipment manufacturer; a computercompany whose products are made by customizing basic parts supplied by others.
*ODM: original design manufacturer; a company thatdesigns and manufactures a product as specified andeventually rebranded by another firm for sale.

Studio Okamura Ltd Co.
2869-1 Hirooka-shimo, Haruno Town, Kochi City
Phone: 088-850-3113
http://www.harunoterrace.co.jp/67Extra by Yukinori Dehara

第三回

Episode 3. [ The Drunken God ]Do you know [The Drunken God]?
I know him. Well, I made him, sort of. Originally, a single line of lyrics from a songsung at parties, no one had yet to lay eyes on the god. Perhaps it is a ghost, onethat lives within the songs, stories, and legends and exists within the minds of thecommon folk. Mizuki-sensei gave these ghosts a visual form. Ghosts were always
drawn by the master painters in their own motifs and styles, but Mizuki-sensei’s
work spread widely through his manga and picture books. Sometimes I wonder
what would people, that had no previous idea, imagine when they heard shufflingand rumbling noises from the neighboring room in the middle of the night. Right
now, I have an image of Mizuki-sensei’s “Azukiarai” character; I think it’s ingrained
into me.
I received a request to create a character for the 10 year anniversary of the “Tosano Okyaku”, so I made [The Drunken God]. I think it’s reasonable and fair to ask
a drunk like to me create a character for a drunken festival. I was told that I hada chance to create a character and a model of something that had no image
from anyone. There were quite a few twists and turns until it was completed, but I
think it is close to the gist of what I imagined the god would look like. It was also
enlarged into a huge statue, given a public Shinto ritual and, in some ways, givena spirit. Yet, this entire time this god had only been an image inside the thoughtsof a drunk’s head.
I think I would prefer for you to have your own drunken god.

68

Yukinori Dehara
Born in 1974 eating bonitos in Kochi and raised with beer.
Yearly consumption of beer = 300 Liters. Designed「きの山さん」(Kinoyama-san) of popular Japanese candy,「きのこの山」(Kinoko-no-yama), as well as various others for Nike, NEC, Tower
Records Asics Europe etc. Creates about 300 figurines a year
and is a Tourism Ambassador for Kochi Prefecture.

69

How to use it$¥

Requirements
1. Over 18 years old
2. Japanese Driver's License or
3. International Driving Permit (IDP)

1. access “DoSPOT-FREE” on device
2. open browser
Kind of a currency
3. accept “use policy”
4. input your mail-address
handling
5. receive a message
Shikoku Bank : USD, CAD, GBP, HHF, AUD, 6. input “authentication code”
NZD, HKD, DKK, NOK,
7. it’ s available !
Kochi Bank :Ehime Bank :Mizuho Bank :Kochi Prefectural
PoliceHeadquarters

In japan, there’re more than 26,000
Japan Post Bank ATMs available inlocal Post Office, shopping center andstation. You can draw Japanese Yen
in cash by a card published abroad.

http://www.jp-bank.japanpost.jp/access/access_atmcd.html(link at Japan bank instituion of partnership POST BANK)

NoticeSome Maestro cards with IC chips
are temporarily unable to makewithdrawals at all ATMs locatedin Japan.

70

Kochi Eki-mae
Tram Stop

Kochi Castle

Kochi
Police Station
Toyota Rent a Car

Marunouchi
High School

OtemaePark

HiromeMarketHasuikemachi-doriTram Stop

Obiyamachi Street

Kochi International
Association

Police Box

Obiyamachi Park
Kochi Honmachi

Chuo Park
Kencho-mae
Tram Stop

Nippon Rent a Car

Otesuji Street
Kochi
Daijingu
shrineATM

Kochibashi
Tram Stop
Times Car Rental

Joto Park

OtemaeHigh School

Kochi
Prefectural
Library

Kochi
Prefectural
Government

Kochi City Hall

Orix Rent a Car
Nissan Rent a Car

Kochi
Literary
Museumhttp://www.jp-bank.japanpost.jp/en/ias/en_ias_index.html(link at International ATM Service-JAPAN POST BANK)You can also use any of several Japanbank cards which have partnerships
with Japan Post Bank.

Kochi
Station15 min / once, 4th / day
Network: IEEE 802.11 a/b/g/n

Josei ParkJapan
Post Bankank
can usevarious cards“VISA, VISAELECTRON, PLUS,
MasterCard, Maestro, Cirrus,
American Express, Diners Club, JCB,
China Unionpay , DISCOVER”

can be made by credit card or
sometimes by cash

Notice

SEK, SGD, EUR, KRW

USD
USD
USD, CAD, GBP, AUD,
EUR,SGD, HKD

Payment

Kochijo-mae
Tram Stop

Ohashi-doriTram Stop

Horizume
Tram Stop

Daimaru
Department
Store
East Bld.

Kochi Harimaya
Harimayabashi
Elementary
SchoolHarimayabashi
Harimayabashi
Tram Stop
Dentetsu Terminal
Bld. Tram Stop71