ICS  59.120  
 
Reference number  
DRS 313: 2021  
© RSB 2021  
  
 RWANDA 
STANDARD  DRS 
313  
 
Second edition  
2021 -mm-dd 
 
Seams, stitches and stitching —
Nomenclature and classification  
 
   
DRS 313: 2021  
©RSB 2021 - All rights reserved                  ii 
 In order to match with technological development and to keep continuous progress in industries, 
standards are subject to periodic review. Users shall ascertain that they are in possession of the latest 
edition  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
© RSB 2021 
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, no part of this publication may be reproduced or utilized 
in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and microfilm, without 
prior written permission from R SB. 
Requests for permission to reprodu ce this document should be addressed to : 
Rwanda Standards  Board  
P.O Box 7099 Kigali -Rwanda  
KK 15 Rd, 49  
Tel. +250 788303492  
Toll Free: 3250  
E-mail: info@rsb.gov.rw  
Website: www.rsb.gov.rw  
ePortal: www.portal.rsb.gov.rw   DRS 313: 2021  
iii                ©RSB 2021  - All rights reserved  
 Contents  Page 
Foreword  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................  iv 
1 Scope  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ......................  1 
2 Terms and definitions  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........................  1 
3 Names and classification of seams, stitches and stitching ................................ ..............................  2 
3.1 Stitches  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................  2 
3.1.1  General  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................  2 
3.1.2  Classes for stitches  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...............................  2 
3.1.3  Class 700  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................  3 
3.2 Seams  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .....................  3 
3.2.1  General  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................  3 
3.2.2  Classes for seams  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ . 3 
3.3 Stitch ings ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...............  4 
3.3.1  General  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................  4 
3.3.2  Classes for stitchings  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........................  4 
4 Desi gnations  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..........  4 
4.1 Stitches  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................  4 
4.2 Seams  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .....................  4 
4.2.1  Seam types  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .............  4 
4.2.2  Rows of stitches  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .... 4 
4.2.3  Stitch type  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..............  5 
4.3 Stitchings  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...............  5 
4.3.1  Stitching type  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .........  5 
4.3.2  Rows of stitches  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .... 5 
4.3.3  Stitch type  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..............  5 
5 Types of seams, stitches and stitching  ................................ ................................ ..............................  5 
5.1 General  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................  5 
5.2 Stitch types  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ............  6 
5.3 Seam types  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........  28 
5.3.1  Seam class SS  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..... 28 
5.3.2  Seam cla ss LS  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..... 44 
5.3.3  Seam class BS  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..... 73 
5.3.4  Seam class FS  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..... 79 
5.4 Stitching types and classes  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...............  81 
5.4.1  Stitching class OS  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...............................  81 
5.4.2  Stitching class EF  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................  83 
. DRS 313: 2021  
©RSB 2021 - All rights reserved                  iv 
 Foreword   
Rwanda Standard s are prepared  by Technical Committees and approved by R wanda Standards Board (RSB) 
Board  of Directors in  accordance with the procedures of RSB, in compliance with Annex 3 of the WTO/TBT 
agreement on the preparation, adoption and application of standards.  
The main task of technical committees is to prepare national standards.  Final Draft Rwanda S tandards 
adopted by Technical committ ees are ratifie d by me mbers of RSB Board of Director s for publication and 
gazettment as Rwanda Standards.  
DRS  313 was prepared by Technical Committee RSB/TC 029, Textile and leather technology . 
In the preparation of this standard, reference was made to the following stan dard 
SANS 10101, Seams, stitches and stitching  
The assistance de rived from the above source is hereby acknowledged with thanks.  
Committee membership  
The following organizations were represented on the Technical Committee on Textile and leather technology  
(RSB/TC 029) in the preparation of this standard.  
Ministry of Trade and Industry (MINICOM)  
University of Rwanda -College of Science and Technology (UR -CST)  
National Agricultural Export Development Board (NAEB)  
 Rwanda Inspectorate, Competition and Consumer Protection Authority (RICA)  
HeWorks Silk Rwanda Ltd  
Dokmai Rwanda Ltd  
GBF Leather and Art promoters Ltd  
 UTEXRWA Ltd  
LIXIL/SATO  
Rene Pharmacy  
ABAHIZI RWANDA Ltd  DRS 313: 2021  
v                ©RSB 2021  - All rights reserved  
 Rwanda Standards Board (RSB) – Secretariat  
 
 
 DRS 313: 2021  
1                ©RSB 2021  - All rights reserved  
 Seams, stitches and stitching — Nomenclature and classification  
1 Scope   
This Rwanda Standard covers various names and classes of stitches, seams, and stitchings used in the 
fabrication of articles by sewing. It also prescribes the standard symbols for their designation.  
2 Terms and definitions  
For the purposes of this standard, the following terms and definitions shall apply  
2.1 
stitch  
unit of thread conformation resulting from passing thread(s), or loop(s) of thread, into or through a material  
2.2 
seam  
joint consisting of a sequence of stitches uniting material or materials  
2.3 
stitching  
sequence of stitches for finishing an edge or for orn amental purposes or for both  
2.4 
strip  
piece, ply, or portion detached from a material, in relatively narrow width and long length; including binding, 
interlining, and reinforcing tape, and webbing  
2.5 
superimposing  
unless otherwise indicated by the diagra m or description, so laying one or more plies of material on another 
that the edges to be joined are in alignment.   
©RSB 2021 - All rights reserved                  2 
 3 Names and classification of seams, stitches and stitching  
3.1 Stitches  
3.1.1  General  
Stitches are divided into seven classes which are identified by th e first digit of three digit numerals. In the 
classes, stitch formations are indicated in terms of needle, bobbin, looper, and cover groups of threads. Each 
class is divided into types which are identified by the second and third digits in accordance with 5.1. 
3.1.2  Classes for stitches  
3.1.2.1  Class 100  
This class of stitch (commonly known as the single thread chain stitch class) is formed with one or with two 
needle threads and its general characteristic is interlooping. A loop of each thread is passed through the 
material and secured by inter -looping the loop with a succeeding loop or succeeding loops (that has/have 
been passed through the material) to form a stitch.”  
3.1.2.2  Class 200  
This class of stitch is formed with one or with two needle threads and its general chara cteristic is that each 
thread passes through the material as a single line of thread and the stitch is secured by the single line of 
thread passing in and out of the material or by interlooping a thread with itself. When two threads are used, 
the threads p ass through the same perforations in the material.  
3.1.2.3  Class 300  
This class of stitch (commonly known as the lock stitch class) is formed with two groups of threads and its 
general characteristic is the interlacing of the groups. Loops of the first group are p assed through the material 
where they are secured by the thread of the second group to form a stitch.  
3.1.2.4  Class 400  
This class of stitch (commonly known as the multi -thread chain stitch class) is formed with two groups of 
threads and its general characteristic  is the interlacing and interlooping of the loops of the groups. Loops of 
the first group are passed through the material and are secured by interlacing and interlooping with loops of 
the second group to form a stitch.  
3.1.2.5  Class 500  
This class of stitch (commo nly known as the over edge or overlock class) is formed with one or more groups 
of threads and its general characteristic is that loops from at least one group are passed over and round the 
edge of the material. Loops of one group are passed through the ma terial and are secured by (1) interlooping 
with themselves before succeeding loops are passed through the material, or (2) interlooping with the loops of 
one or more other interlooped groups of threads before succeeding loops of the first group are again p assed 
through the material. Combination stitches, formed with rows of stitch types from two or more different stitch 
classes sewn simultaneously, are included in this class.  DRS 313: 2021  
3                ©RSB 2021  - All rights reserved  
 3.1.2.6  Class 600  
This class of stitch (commonly known as the floss stitch class) is forme d with two or more groups of threads 
and its general characteristic is that at least one group covers each surface of the material at a raw edge. 
Loops of the first group are passed through loops of the third group (previously spread on the surface of the 
material), then through the material, and then interlooped with loops of the second group of threads on the 
underside of the material. The one exception to this procedure is in stitch type 601, where only two groups of 
threads are used and the function of the third group is performed by one of the threads in the first group.  
3.1.3  Class 700  
This class of stitch (commonly known as the single thread lock stitch class) is formed with a single continuous 
needle thread and its general characteristic is that at the pen etration of the first stitch a portion of the needle 
thread is wound on a bobbin in the lower mechanism of the machine. The stitches are formed by interlacing 
the needle thread with the portion wound on the reel. The interlacing of this stitch class, excep t for the initial 
stitch, is identical to that of stitch class 300.  
3.2 Seams  
3.2.1  General  
Seams are divided into four classes, designated by two upper case letters and characterized as given below. 
Each class is divided into types (see 4.2.1).  
3.2.2  Classes for seams  
3.2.2.1  Class SS (Superimposed)  
The general characteristic of this class of seam is that the plies of material are superimposed one on another 
and then joined with one or more rows of stitches.  
3.2.2.2  Class LS (Lapped)  
The general characteristic of this class of seam is th at the plies of material are lapped and then joined with 
one or more rows of stitches.  
3.2.2.3  Class BS (Bound)  
The general characteristic of this class of seam is that it is formed by folding a binding strip over the edge of 
one or more plies of material and then  joining the binding strip to the material with one or more rows of 
stitches.  
3.2.2.4  Class FS (Flat)  
The general characteristic of this class of seam is that it is formed by joining the abutted edges of material 
together in such a manner that the stitches extend across and cover (or tend to cover) the edges of the plies 
at the joint.   
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 3.3 Stitchings  
3.3.1  General  
Stitchings are divided into two classes, designated by two upper case letters and characterized as given 
below. Each class is divided into types (see 5.3.1).  
3.3.2  Classes for stitchings  
3.3.2.1  Class OS (Ornamental)  
The general characteristic of this class of stitching is that a series of stitches is inserted in a material in a 
straight line, on a curve, or following a design.  
3.3.2.2  Class EF (Edge Finishing)  
The general character istic of this class of stitching is that a series of stitches is formed at or over the edge of 
material (the edge being either folded or not folded) to finish the edge, or at or over a folded edge of material 
to join the edge to the body of the material.  
4 Designations  
4.1 Stitches  
Within each class of stitch there are one or more types, each type being designated by the last two digits of 
the designation. A row of stitches may be any one of the stitch types classified (see Clause 4).  
Example  301, 312 – types 1 a nd 12 respectively of class 300.  
4.2 Seams  
4.2.1  Seam types  
Within each class of seam there are various types designated by one or two lower case letters added to the 
class designation.  
Example  LSa – type "a" of class LS.  
4.2.2  Rows of stitches  
The number of rows of stitc hes used in forming the seams is designated by suffixing to the class and type 
designation an arabic numeral preceded by a hyphen.  
Example  LSa-2 – lap seam of type "a" made with two rows of stitches.  DRS 313: 2021  
5                ©RSB 2021  - All rights reserved  
 4.2.3  Stitch type  
The designation of a seam also includes the symbol for the type of stitch to be used. In a seam where more 
than one type of stitch is used, the symbol for the type of stitch in the row nearest to the edge of the material is 
placed first. In the case of a two -operation seam the symbol for the stitch used in the first operation is placed 
first. 
Examples:  
1) 301-LSa-2 – lap seam of type "a" made with two rows of stitch type 301;  
2) 301-401-LSa-2 – lap seam of type "a" made with one row of stitch type 301 and one row  
3) 401-301-SSe-2 – superimposed seam of type " e " made by joining two plies together with stitch type 401 and then 
turning and stitching down with stitch type 301.  
4.3 Stitchings  
4.3.1  Stitching type  
Within each class of stitching there are various types designated by adding one or two lower case lett ers to 
the class designation.  
Example  OSa – type "a" of class OS.  
4.3.2  Rows of stitches  
The number of rows of stitches used in forming the stitching is designated by suffixing to the class and type 
designation, an arabic numeral preceded by a hyphen.  
Example  OSa-2 – ornamental stitching of type "a" made with two rows of stitches.  
4.3.3  Stitch type  
The complete designation of a stitching includes the symbol or symbols of the type of stitch or stitches used, 
given in the same manner and in the same order as given in 4.2 .3. 
Example  304-OSa-1 – stitching type OSa formed with one row of stitch type 304.  
5 Types of seams, stitches and stitching  
5.1 General  
The various types of stitches, seams, and stitchings are described in detail and illustrated diagrammatically in 
this clause. The presence of an arrow on the stitch type diagram indicates the direction of the successive 
stitch formation. The diagrams for the seams and stitchings illustrate the fundamental types and the  
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 descriptive procedure covers the general formation of the typ es. Most seam types may be produced by using 
multiple rows of stitches.  
5.2 Stitch types  
 
Figure 1 — Stitch type 101 (commonly known as single thread basting stitch)  
Formed with one needle thread which is passed through the material and interlooped  with itself on the 
undersurface of the material.  
 
Figure 2 — Stitch type 102  
Formed with two needle threads A and A '. Both threads are passed through the material and thread A ' is 
interlooped with itself and with thread A.  
 
Figure 3 — Stitch type 103 (commonly known as single thread blind stitch)  
Formed with one needle thread which is interlooped with itself on the top surface of the material. The thread is 
pass through the top ply and then horizontally) partially through the bottom ply (i.e. it does n ot penetrate 
through this ply).  
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Figure 4 — Stitch type 104  
Formed with one needle thread which is interlooped with itself on the undersurface of the material.  
 
Figure 5 — Stitch type 105  
Formed with one needle thread which is interlooped  with itself at a centre line on the top surface of the 
material. The thread is passed through the top ply and partially through the bottom ply (i.e. it does not 
penetrate through this ply) on either side of the centreline.  
 
Figure 6 — Stitch type 106  
Formed with one needle thread which is interlooped with itself on the top surface of the material. The thread is 
passed through the top ply and then (horizontally) through the bottom ply (i.e. it does not penetrate through 
this ply).  
 
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Figure 7 — Stitch type 201 (sometimes referred to as cobbler 's or saddler 's stitch)  
Formed with two needle threads, A and A ', which are passed through the same perforations in the material 
from opposite directions without interlacing or interlooping.  
 
Figure 8 — Stitch type 202  (commonly known as back stitch)  
Formed with one needle thread which is passed through the material, brought forward two stitch lengths, 
passed back through the material, and brought back one stitch length before being passed through the 
material a third t ime. 
 
Figure 9 — Stitch type 203 (commonly known as whip or blanket stitch)  
Formed with one needle thread which is passed through the material from the underside and immediately 
passed back through the same perforation to form a loop on the surface of the  material. The needle is then 
advance done stitch length, passed through the material and the loop, and immediately passed back through 
the loop and the same needle perforation to form a new loop to receive the succeeding stitch.  
DRS 313: 2021  
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Figure 10 — Stitch type 204 (commonly known as hand felling stitch)  
Formed with one needle thread which is passed through the material, brought back one stitch length and then 
passed back up through the material. The needle is then moved diagonally across the material and forward  at 
least two stitch lengths, passed through the material, brought back one stitch length, and again passed to the 
surface of the material. This process is repeated to form a crisscross pattern of stitches on the surface and 
parallel rows of separated and offset stitches on the underside of the material.  
 
 
Figure 11 — Stitch type 301 (commonly known as single needle lock stitch)  
Formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. A loop of thread A is passed 
through the material and interlaced with thread B. Thread A is pulled up so that the interlacing is between the 
surfaces of the material or materials being sewn.  
 
Figure 12 — Stitch Type 302  
Formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A ', and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and 
A' are passed through the material and interlaced on the underside of the material with thread B.  
 
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Figure 13 — Stitch type 303  
Formed with four threads: three needle threads, A and A ' and A '', and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads 
A and A ' and A '' are passed through the material and interlaced on the underside of the material with thread 
B. 
 
 
Figure 14 — Stitch type 304 (commonly known as zigzag lock stitch)  
Formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. Th is stitch type is the same as 
stitch type 301 except that successive stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.  
 
Figure 15 — Stitch type 305  
Formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A ', and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and 
A' are passed through the material and interlaced on the underside of the material with thread B. Successive 
stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.  
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Figure 16 — Stitch type 306 (commonly known as machine felling stitch)  
Formed with two threads: one needle t hread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of thread A are passed 
through the top ply of material, then (horizontally) partially through the bottom ply (i.e. it does not penetrate 
through this ply), and interlaced with thread B on the top surface of the bot tom ply of material.  
 
Figure 17 — Stitch type 307  
Formed with five threads: four needle threads, A, A ', A'', and A ''', and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads 
A, A', A'', and A ''', are passed through the material and interlaced on the underside of the material with thread 
B. 
 
Figure 18 — Stitch type 308  
Formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. This stitch type is the same as 
stitch type 304 except that successive pairs of stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.  
 
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Figure 19 — Stitch type 309  
Formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A ', and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and 
A' are passed through the material and interlaced on the underside of the material with thread B.  
 
Figure 20 — Stitch typ e 310  
Formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A ', and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and 
A' are passed through the material and interlaced on the underside of the material with thread B. Successive 
stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.  
 
Figure 21 — Stitch type 311  
Formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A ', and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and 
A' are passed through the material and interlaced with thread B; threads A and A ' are then pulled back so that 
the inter lacings are between the surfaces of the material or materials being sewn.  
DRS 313: 2021  
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Figure 22 — Stitch type 312  
Formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A ', and one bobbin thread, B. This stitch type is the 
same as stitch type 311 except that  successive stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.  
 
 
Figure 23 — Stitch type 313  
Formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of thread A are passed 
(longitudinally) partially through portions of both plies of materi al (i.e. it does not penetrate through the plies) 
and interlaced on the top of the material, with thread B.  
 
 
Figure 24 — Stitch type 314  
Formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of thread A are passed 
through the top  ply of material, then (horizontally) partially through the bottom ply, and interlaced on the top of 
the material, with thread B.  
 
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Figure 25 — Stitch type 401  
Formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one looper  thread, B. Loops of thread A are passed 
through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread B; the interloopings are then drawn 
against the underside of the material.  
 
Figure 26 — Stitch type 402 (commonly known as the cover seam sti tch) 
Formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A ', and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A ' 
are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread B; the interloopings are 
then drawn against the underside of the material.  
 
Figure 27 — Stitch type 403  
Formed with four threads: three needle threads, A, A ', and A '' and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A, 
A', and A '' are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped  with loops of thread B; the 
interloopings are then drawn against the underside of the material.  
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Figure 28 — Stitch type 404 (commonly known as zigzag chain stitch)  
Formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one looper thread, B. This stitch is t he same as stitch 
type 401 except that successive stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.  
 
Figure 29 — Stitch type 405  
Formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A ', and one looper thread, B. This stitch is the same as 
stitch type 402 except  that successive stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.  
 
Figure 30 — Stitch type 406  
Formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A ', and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A ' 
are passed through the material and each thread is inter laced and interlooped separately with loops of thread 
B; the interloopings are then drawn against the underside of the material.  
 
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Figure 31 — Stitch type 407  
Formed with four threads: three needle threads A, A ', A'', and one looper thread, B. Loops of thr eads A, A ', 
and A '' are passed through the material and each thread is interlaced and interlooped separately with thread 
B; the interloopings are then drawn against the underside of the material.  
 
Figure 32 — Stitch type 501  
Formed with one needle thread, a loop of which is passed through the material and around the edge of the 
material and interlooped on the upper surface of the material with the succeeding loop at the point of 
penetration of that loop.  
 
Figure 33 — Stitch t ype 502 (commonly known as two thread serging stitch)  
Formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one looper thread, B. Loops of thread A are passed 
through the material and interlooped on the underside of the material with thread B at the point of penetration. 
Loops of thread B are brought around the edge of the material and interlooped on the upper surface of the 
material with thread A at the next stitch.  
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Figure 34 — Stitch type 503 (commonly known as two thread purl on edge overlock stitch)  
Form ed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one looper thread, B. Loops of thread A are passed 
through the material and brought to the edge where they are interlooped with thread B. The loops of thread B 
are carried from this interlooping to the point o f needle penetration of the next stitch and are there interlooped 
with thread A.  
 
Figure 35 — Stitch type 504 (commonly known as three thread overlock stitch)  
Formed with three threads: one needle thread, A; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of 
thread A are passed through the material and interlooped on the underside of the material with loops of thread 
B at the point of penetration. The loops of thread B are carried to the edge of the material and are there 
interlooped with loops of thr ead C. Loops of thread C are carried from this interlooping to the point of needle 
penetration of the next stitch and are there interloped with thread A.  
 
Figure 36 — Stitch type 505 (commonly known as three thread purl on edge overlock stitch)  
 
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 Formed wit h three threads: one needle thread, A; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of 
thread A are passed through the material and carried to the edge where they are interlooped with loops of 
thread B. The loops of thread B are brought up to the t op edge of the material and are there interlooped with 
loops of thread C. The loops of thread C are carried to the point of needle penetration of the next stitch and 
are there interlooped with thread A.  
 
Figure 37 — Stitch type 506 (commonly known as two needle overlock safety stitch)  
Formed with four threads: two needle threads, A and A'; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops 
of threads A and A' are passed through the material and the loops of thread A are carried to the point of 
needle pen etration of the loops of thread A'; the loops of threads A and A' are interlooped with loops of thread 
B at this point. The loops of thread B are brought around the edge of the material and interlooped with loops of 
thread C. The loops of thread C are carr ied to the points of needle penetration of threads A and A' at the next 
stitch where they are entered by the loops of threads A and A' . 
 
 
Figure 38 — Stitch type 507  
Formed with four threads: two needle threads, A and A '; one looper  thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops 
of threads A and A ' are passed through the material and the loops of thread A are carried to the point of 
needle penetration of the loops of thread A '; the loops of threads A and A ' are interlooped with loops of t hread 
B at this point. The loops of thread B are brought around the edge and interlooped with loops of thread C. The 
loops of thread C are carried to the point of needle penetration of thread A ' at the next stitch where they are 
entered by the loops of thr ead A '. 
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Figure 39 — Stitch type 508  
Formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A ', and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A ' 
are passed through the material and interlooped , at the lower point of penetration, with thread B. Loops of 
thread B are brought around the edge of the material and interlooped on the surface of the material with 
thread A ' at the next stitch.  
 
Figure 40 — Stitch type 509  
Formed with three threads: two  needle threads, A and A ', and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A ' 
are passed through the material and interlooped, at the lower point of penetration, with loops of thread B. 
Loops of thread B are brought around the edge of the material and spr ead on the surface of the material 
where they are entered by loops of threads A and A '. 
 
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Figure 41 — Stitch type 510  
Formed with two needle threads, A and loops of which are passed through the material, brought around the 
edge, and interlooped on the surf ace of the material with thread A ' at the point of needle penetration of the 
next stitch.  
 
Figure 42 — Stitch type 511  
Formed with two needle threads, A and A '. Loops of threads A and A ' are passed through the material, 
brought around the edge, and spread  on the upper surface where they are entered by loops of themselves at 
the points of needle penetration of the next stitch.  
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Figure 43 — Stitch type 512  
Formed with four threads: two needle threads, A and A '; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C.  Loops 
of threads A and A ' are passed through the material where they are interlooped, at the lower points of 
penetration, with thread B. Loops of thread B are brought around the edge and interlooped with loops of 
thread C. The loops of thread C are carrie d to the point of needle penetration of thread A ' at the next stitch 
where they are entered by loops of thread A '. 
 
Figure 44 — Stitch type 513  
Formed with one needle thread which is passed through the material as a loop and brought to the edge, 
where it is passed through a loop formed by the previous stitch and a loop which has been drawn across the 
upper surface of the material.  
 
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Figure 45 — Stitch type 514  
Formed with four threads: two needle threads, A and A '; one looper thread, B; and one cover threa d, C. Loops 
of threads A and A ' are passed through the material and interlooped at the lower point of penetration with 
loops of thread B. The loops of thread B are brought around the edge of the material and interlooped with 
loops of thread C. The loops of  thread C are extended to the point of needle penetration of threads A and A ' at 
the next stitch where they are entered by loops of these threads.  
 
 
Figure 46 — Stitch type 515  
Formed by simultaneously sewing one row of stitch type 401 at the specified distance from the edge of the 
material, and one row of stitch type 503 on the edge of the material.  
 
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 Figure 47 — Stitch type 516  
Formed by simultaneously sewing one row of stitch type 401 at the specified distance from the edge of the 
material, and one ro w of stitch type 504 on the edge of the material.  
 
Figure 48 — Stitch type 517  
Formed by simultaneously sewing one row of stitch type 301 at the specified distance from the edge of the 
material, and one row of stitch type 504 on the edge of the material.  
 
Figure 49 — Stitch type 518  
Formed by simultaneously sewing one row of stitch type 301 at the specified distance from the edge of the 
material, and one row of stitch type 503 on the edge of the material.  
 
Figure 50 — Stitch type 519  
 
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 Formed by simultaneo usly sewing one row of stitch type 401 at the specified distance from the edge of the 
material, and one row of stitch type 602 on the edge of the material.  
 
Figure 51 — Stitch type 520  
Formed by simultaneously sewing two rows of stitch type 401 at the spe cified distance apart and the specified 
distance from the edge of the material, and one row of stitch type 602 on the edge of the material.  
 
Figure 52 — Stitch type 521  
Formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A ', and one looper thread, B. Loo ps of threads A and A ' 
are passed through the material, brought around the edge of the material and there interlaced with thread B. 
The loops of thread B are carried from this interlacing to the points of needle penetration of threads A and A ' 
at the next stitch where they are entered by loops of those threads.  
 
Figure 53 — Stitch type 601  
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25                ©RSB 2021  - All rights reserved  
 Formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A ', and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A ' 
are passed through the material and interlooped  on the underside, with thread B. Loops of thread A ' are 
carried across the upper surface of the material to the point of needle penetration of the next stitch of thread A 
where they are entered by thread A.  
 
Figure 54 — Stitch type 602 (commonly known as  two needle floss stitch)  
Formed with four threads: two needle threads, A and A '; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops 
of threads A and A ' are passed through loops of thread C (previously spread across the top surface of the 
material), then  through the material where they are interlooped on the underside of the material with loops of 
thread B.  
 
 
Figure 55 — Stitch type 603  
Formed with five threads: two needle threads, A and A ', one looper thread, B; and two cover threads, C and 
C'. Loops of threads A and A ' are passed through loops of threads C and C ' (previously spread across the 
surface of the material), then through the material and interlooped on the underside of the material with loops 
of thread B.  
 
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Figure 56 — Stitch type 60 4 
Formed with six threads: three needle threads, A, A ', and A ''; one looper thread, B; and two cover threads, C 
and C '. Loops of threads A, A ', and A '' are passed through loops of threads C and C ' (previously spread 
across the surface of the material), then through the material and interlooped on the underside of the material 
with thread B.  
 
Figure 57 — Stitch type 605 (commonly known as three needle floss stitch)  
Formed with five threads: three ne edle threads, A, A ', and A ''; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. 
Loops of threads A, A ', and A '' are passed through loops of thread C (previously spread on the top surface of 
the material), then through the material and interlooped on the under side of the material with loops of thread 
B. 
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Figure 58 — Stitch type 606 (commonly  known as flat lock stitch)  
Formed with nine threads: four needle threads, A, A', A'', and A'''; four looper threads, B, B', B'', and B'''' and 
one cover thread, C. Loops o f threads A, A', A'', and A'''' are passed through loops of thread C (previously 
spread on the top surface of the material), then through the material and interlooped on the underside of the 
material with loops of the B threads as follows: A and A' with B;  A' and A'' with B' and B''; A'' and A''' with B''' . 
 
 
 
Figure 59 — Stitch type 607 (commonly known as modified flatlock stitch)  
Formed with six threads: four needle threads, A, A ', and A '', and A '''; one looper  thread, B; and one cover 
thread, C. Loops of threads A, A ', A'', and A ''' are passed through loops of thread C (previously spread on the 
surface of the material), then through the material and interlooped on the underside of the material with loops 
of thr ead B.  
 
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Figure 60 — Stitch type 701  
Formed with one continuous needle thread, which after the first needle penetration is apportioned into two 
parts: one part needle thread, A, and one part bobbin thread, A '. In subsequent penetrations thread A is 
passed through the material and interlaced with thread A '. Thread A is pulled up so that the interlacing is 
between the surfaces of the material or materials being sewn.  
5.3 Seam types  
5.3.1  Seam class SS  
5.3.1.1  SSa 
Superimpose two or more plies of material and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches 
(positioned at the specified distances) from the aligned edges.  
 
 
Figure 61 — SSa-1 
5.3.1.2  SSb 
Turn in the specified width at the edge of one ply of material, superimpose it on a second ply, and seam 
through the turned edge  with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 62 — SSb-1 
5.3.1.3  SSc 
Superimpose two plies of material, turn in the specified width at the edge of each ply and seam through the 
turned edges with the appropriate number of rows of stitches (positioned at the specified distance(s) from the 
edges)  
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Figure 63 — SSc-1 
5.3.1.4  SSd 
Superimpose two plies of material, turn back the specified width at the edge of each ply and seam through the 
turned edges with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 64 — SSd-1 
5.3.1.5  SSe 
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then turn back each ply at the seam and seam through 
the turned edges with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 65 — SSe-2 
5.3.1.6  SSf 
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then open the plies and seam a strip over the edges with 
two rows of stitches positioned at the specified distance apart.  
 
Figure 66 — SSf-3 
 
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 5.3.1.7  SSh 
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material (having trimmed edges at the seam), open the plies and 
sew a  row of covering stitches over the trimmed edges.  
 
Figure 67 — SSh-2 
5.3.1.8  SSj 
Superimpose two or more plies of material, insert a strip and seam with the appropriate number of rows of 
stitches (positioned at the specified distance(s) from the edges).  
 
Figure 68 — SSj-1 
5.3.1.9  SSk 
Superimpose two plies of material, insert a folded strip (with or without a cord, as specified), and seam with 
the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 69 — SSk-1 
5.3.1.10  SSl 
So superimpose one ply of material on another that the edge of the upper ply projects beyond that of the lower 
far enough to allow it to be turned under the edge of the lower ply and then in for the specified distance. Seam 
with one row of stitches.  
 
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 Figure 70 — SSl-1 
5.3.1.11  SSm  
Superimpose two or more plies of material and seam with one row of stitches in such a manner that the thread 
passes only partially through the thickness of the lowest (outer) ply and, unless otherwise specified, does not 
show on the outer side of the lowest ply.  
 
Figure 71 — SSm -1 
5.3.1.12  SSn 
Superimpose two or more plies of material, turn the superimposed edges back over the body material for the 
specified distance, and seam with one row of stitches.  
 
Figure72 — SSn-1 
5.3.1.13  SSp 
Superimpose two or more plies of material, turn the superimposed edges back over the by material and then 
in (under the first fold) for the specified distance, and seam with one row of stitches.  
 
Figure 73 — SSp-1 
5.3.1.14  SSq 
Form seam type SSa -1, using three or more plies of material. Then turn each outer ply back at the seam and 
seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
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Figure 74 — SSq-2 
5.3.1.15  SSr 
Superimpose two plies of material, turn back the edge of one ply, and seam through the turned edge and the 
plies with one row of stitches. When specified, turn back the bottom ply  at the seam.  
 
Figure 75 — SSr-1 
5.3.1.16  SSs 
Superimpose a strip on the turned -in edges) of one or more plies of material and seam through the turned -in 
edge with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 76 — SSs-1 
5.3.1.17  SSt 
Superimpose one or more plies of  material (with the outer edges) turned in) on a strip and so seam with the 
appropriate number of rows of stitches that only the row nearest to the turned -in edge passes through the 
fold(s).  
 
Figure 77 — SSt-2 
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 5.3.1.18  SSu 
Turn in the edges of two plies of material , insert a strip into the fold in the upper ply, and so seam with the 
appropriate number of rows of stitches that only the row nearest to the turned -in edges passes through the 
folds.  
 
Figure 78 — SSu-2 
5.3.1.19  SSv 
Superimpose two or more plies of material and se am with the appropriate number of rows of stitches 
positioned at the specified distance(s) apart.  
 
 
Figure 79 — SSv-1 
5.3.1.20  SSw  
Form seam type SSbc -1. Then turn back the upper ply over the seamed edge and seam with one row of 
stitches.  
 
Figure 80 — SSw -2 
5.3.1.21  SSx 
Form seam type SSa -1, using three plies of material. Then turn back the aligned edges of the middle and 
bottom plies, turn the bottom ply back over these turned edges, turn back the top ply, and seam with one row 
of stitches through the body and the edge o f the top ply and the body of the bottom ply.  
 
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Figure 81 — SSx-2 
5.3.1.22  SSy 
Form seam type SSa -1, using three plies of material. Then turn back the aligned edges of the middle and 
bottom plies, turn the bottom ply back over these turned edges, turn back the top ply, and seam with one row 
of stitches through the middle ply, the turned edges of the middle and bottom plies, and the body of the bottom 
ply. 
 
Figure 82 — SSy-2 
5.3.1.23  SSz 
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then open the plies, turn back the edge of each ply, and 
seam through the body and turned edge of each ply one row of stitches.  
 
Figure 83 — SSz-3 
5.3.1.24  SSaa  
Superimpose a strip on a ply of material and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 84 — SSaa -1 
5.3.1.25  SSab  
Superimpose a  strip on two plies of material and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches 
(positioned at the specified distance(s) from the aligned edges).  
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Figure 85 — SSab -1 
5.3.1.26  SSac  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then turn back the edge of the upper ply and seam a strip 
(with its edges turned in) to the edge of the lower ply, turn the bodies of both plies aside and seam the edge of 
the upper ply to the strip. Open the plies.  
 
Figure 86 — SSac -3 
5.3.1.27  SSad  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then open the plies, turn back the edge of each ply, 
superimpose the joint on a strip, and seam with one row of stitches through the body and turned edge of each 
ply and the strip . 
 
Figure 87 — SSad -3 
5.3.1.28  SSae  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then turn back each ply at the seam and seam with the 
appropriate number of rows of stitches, ensuring that when more than one row of stitches is used, one row 
passes through the folded edges.  
 
Figure 88 — SSae -2 
5.3.1.29  SSaf  
Superimpose a stri p on a ply of material which is superimposed on a second strip, and seam with one row of 
stitches. Then turn back the edges of the ply and second strip, turn the body of the top strip at the first seam 
and then under the ply, and seam with one row of stitc hes through the first seam and body of the top strip.  
 
©RSB 2021 - All rights reserved                  36 
  
Figure 89 — SSaf -2 
5.3.1.30  SSag  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then open the plies, superimpose them on a strip (with 
edges turned in), and seam with one row of stitches through the body o f each ply and the turned edge of the 
strip.  
 
 
Figure 90 — SSag -3 
5.3.1.31  SSah  
Turn in the edge of one ply of material, insert a strip into the fold, superimpose the turned edge on a second 
ply (with edge turned in), and seam with three or four rows of stitches, ensuring that two rows of stitches pass 
through the turned edges.  
 
Figure 91 — SSah -3 
 
5.3.1.32  SSaj  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then turn back each ply at the seam and seam with the 
appropriate number of rows of stitches, turn the top ply b ack at the seam, and seam with one row of stitches 
at the specified distance from the second row of stitches.  
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Figure 92 — SSaj -3 
5.3.1.33  SSak  
Superimpose a strip on the fold of a ply of material and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
  
Figure  93 — SSak -1 
5.3.1.34  SSal  
Superimpose a strip on a ply of material and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches. Then fold 
back the ply and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches through the strip and the folded portion 
of the ply.  
 
Figu re 94 — SSal -2 
5.3.1.35  SSam  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then open the plies, turn back the edge of each ply, fold 
the body of one ply under the turned edges, and seam with one row of stitches through the first seam.  
 
Figure 95 — SSam -2 
5.3.1.36  SSan  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then open the plies, turn back the edge of each ply, fold 
the body of one ply under the turned edges, and seam with one row of stitches through the turned edge and 
the body of the top ply.  
 
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Figure 96 — SSan-2 
5.3.1.37  SSao  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then open the plies, turn back the edge of each ply, fold 
the body of one ply under the turned edges, and seam with one row of stitches through the turned edge of the 
bottom ply and the body of the top ply.  
 
Figure 97 — SSao -2 
5.3.1.38  SSap  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then open the plies, turn back the edge of each ply, fold 
the body of one ply under the turned edges, and seam through each turned edge with one row of stitches.  
 
Figure 98 — SSap -3 
5.3.1.39  SSaq  
Superimpose two or more plies of material, fold back the edges over the body of the material (for the specified 
distance) and seam with one row of stitches. Then turn back the top ply at the seam and seam through the 
folds and the top  ply with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 99 — SSaq -2 
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 5.3.1.40  SSar  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then turn back the edge of the upper ply and seam a 
folded strip (with its edges turned in) to the edge of the lower ply; turn the upper ply aside and seam its edge 
to the folded edge of the strip. Open the plies.  
 
Figure 100 — SSar -3 
5.3.1.41  SSas  
Turn in the edges of a strip of material and seam each with one row of stitches. Then superimpose the strip on 
a ply and seam each side w ith one row of stitches.  
 
Figure 101 — SSas -4 
5.3.1.42  SSat  
Turn in the edges of a strip of material, superimpose it on a ply, and seam with the appropriate number of 
rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 102 — SSat -2 
5.3.1.43  SSau  
Superimpose a strip on a ply of material and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 103 — SSau -2 
 
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 5.3.1.44  SSav  
Superimpose a folded strip (with or without a cord, as specified) on one ply of material and seam with one row 
of stitches. Then superimpose a second ply of material and seam with one row of stitches. Turn back the plies 
at the second seam.  
 
Figure104 — SSav -2 
5.3.1.45  SSaw  
Superimpose two plies of material, insert a folded strip (with or without a cord, as specified), and seam with 
one row of stitches. Then turn back the top ply at the sea m and seam with the appropriate number of rows of 
stitches.  
 
Figure 105 — SSaw -2 
5.3.1.46  SSax  
Superimpose two plies of material, insert a folded strip (with or without a cord, as specified), and seam with 
one row of stitches. Then turn back each ply at the seam and seam through the folded edges with the 
appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 106 — SSax -2 
5.3.1.47  SSay  
Form seam type SSa -1, using a strip on a ply of material. Then turn back the strip at the seam, fold it around 
the edges, and seam with one row of  stitches.  
 
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 Figure 107 — SSay -2 
5.3.1.48  SSaz  
Fold a ply of material, superimpose the edges on a strip and seam with one row of stitches at the specified 
distance from the edges. Turn the ply to envelop the strip.  
 
Figure 108 — SSaz -1 
5.3.1.49  SSba  
Form stitching type EFa -1 for each of two plies of material. Superimpose the plies (with the turned edges 
outside), and seam with one row of stitches. Open the plies and turn back each edge.  
 
Figure 109 — SSba -3 
5.3.1.50  SSbb  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then turn back each ply at the seam, superimpose a strip, 
and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 110 — SSbb -3 
5.3.1.51  SSbc  
Superimpose two plies of material, turn the specified width at the edge of one ply over the edge of the second 
ply, and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 111 — SSbc -1 
 
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 5.3.1.52  SSbd  
Superimpose two plies of material with their edges positioned at the specified distance apart and seam with 
the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 112 — SSbd -1 
5.3.1.53  SSbe  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then turn back one ply at the seam, fold back the second 
ply at the specified distance from the seam, and seam through the folded edges with one row of stitches.  
 
Figure 113 — SSbe -2 
5.3.1.54  SSbf  
Fold a stri p of material (with or without a cord, as specified), and seam with one row of stitches. Superimpose 
two plies of material, insert the strip, and seam with one row of stitches. Turn back the top ply at the seam and 
seam through the folded edges and bottom ply with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 114 — SSbf -3 
5.3.1.55  SSbg  
Fold a strip of material (with or without a cord, as specified), and seam with one row of stitches. Superimpose 
two plies, insert the strip, and seam with one row of stitches. Turn back both plies at the seam and seam 
through the folded edges with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 115 — SSbg -3 
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 5.3.1.56  SSbh  
Form seam type BSb -1, for each of two plies of material. Then superimpose two of the plies (with the turned -in 
edges of the binding strip inside) and seam with one row of stitches. Open the plies and turn back each edge.  
 
Figure 116 — SSbh -3 
5.3.1.57  SSbj  
Form seam type SSn -1. Then turn back the upper ply over the seamed edge and seam with one row of 
stitches.  
 
Figure 117 — SSbj -2 
5.3.1.58  SSbk  
So superimpose one ply of material on another that the edge of the lower ply projects beyond that of the upper 
far enough to allow it to be turned over the edge of the upper ply. Then turn back both edges over the body 
material, turn in the ou ter edge and seam with one row of stitches.  
 
Figure 118 — SSbk -1 
5.3.1.59  SSbl  
Form seam Type SSbd -1. Then turn back the joint, turn in the outer edge, and seam with one row of stitches.  
 
©RSB 2021 - All rights reserved                  44 
  
Figure 119 — SSbl -2 
5.3.2  Seam class LS  
5.3.2.1  LSa 
Lap the edges of two or more plies of  material for the specified distance and seam with the appropriate 
number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 120 — LSa-1 
5.3.2.2  LSb 
Turn in the edge of one ply of material, lap it on the edge of a second ply, and seam with the appropriate 
number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 121 — LSb-1 
5.3.2.3  LSc 
Turn in and interlap the edges of two plies of material and seam with the appropriate number of rows of 
stitches.  
 
Figure 122 — LSc-1 
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 5.3.2.4  LSd 
Turn in the edge of one ply of material, lap it on the body of a second ply (at the specified  distance from the 
edge of the second ply), and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 123 — LSd-1 
5.3.2.5  LSe 
Turn in the edge of each of two plies of material, superimpose them, then insert a third ply between the 
turned -in edges, and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 124 — LSe-1 
5.3.2.6  LSf 
Turn in the edge of one ply of material, lap it on two or more plies, and seam with the appropriate number of 
rows of stitches, ensuring that when more than one row of stitches  is used, the edge of the inner ply (plies) is 
extended so that the second row of stitches does not pass through the bottom ply. Then turn back the bottom 
ply. 
 
Figure 125 — LSf-1 
5.3.2.7  LSg 
Turn in the edges of each of two strips of material, overlap the strips , insert a ply of material between the 
turned -in edges at one side, and seam each side with the appropriate number of rows of stitches, ensuring 
that when more than one row of stitches is used, the folded edges of the top strip are extended so that only 
one row of stitches passes through the bottom strip.  
 
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Figure 126 — LSg-2 
5.3.2.8  LSj 
Turn in the edges of each of two strips of material, superimpose the strips, insert a strip between the turned -in 
edges of the top strip, insert the edge of a ply of material betwe en the turned -in edges of the strips at one 
side, and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 127 — LSj-2 
5.3.2.9  LSk 
Turn in the edges of a strip of material; superimpose on it a ply of material whose edge has been turned in, 
and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 128 — LSk-2 
5.3.2.10  LSl 
Turn in the edge of a ply of material, superimpose it on a strip with turned -in edges, insert one or more plies of 
material between the turned -in edges of the ply and the strip, and seam with the appropriate number of rows 
of stitches.  
 
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 Figure 129 — LSl-2 
5.3.2.11  LSm  
Turn in the edges of a strip of material, insert a strip between the turned -in edges, superimpose the assembly 
on a ply of material whose edge has been turned in, and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches  
 
.  
Figure 130 — LSm -2 
5.3.2.12  LSn 
Turn in twice the edge of a ply of material, insert the edges of a folded strip, and seam with the appropriate 
number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 131 — LSn-1 
5.3.2.13  LSp 
Superimpose a strip of mat erial on the abutted edges of two or more plies of material and seam with two or 
four rows of stitches, as relevant.  
 
Figure 132 — LSp-2 
 
5.3.2.14  LSq 
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then turn back the top ply at the seam and seam with the 
appro priate number of rows of stitches.  
 
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Figure 133 — LSq-2 
5.3.2.15  LSr 
So superimpose two plies of material that their edges are the specified distance apart and seam with one row 
of stitches at the specified distance from the edge of the top ply. Then turn the top p ly back at the seam, turn 
in the edge of the bottom ply, and seam with one row of stitches through the top ply and turned edge of the 
bottom ply.  
 
Figure 134 — LSr-2 
5.3.2.16  LSs 
So superimpose two plies of material that their edges are the specified distance apart, and seam with one row 
of stitches at the specified distance from the edge of the top ply. Then turn the top ply back at the seam and 
seam with one row of stitches through the top and bottom plies.  
 
Figure 135 — LSs-2 
5.3.2.17  LSt 
Turn in the edge of one ply  of material, lap it on a second ply, fold a strip over the aligned edges of both plies, 
and seam with two rows of stitches, only one of which passes through the strip.  
 
Figure 136 — LSt-2 
5.3.2.18  LSu 
Turn in the edge of one ply of material, lap it on a second pl y, fold a strip (having both edges turned in) over 
the aligned edges of the plies, and seam with two rows of stitches, only one of which passes through the strip.  
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Figure 137 — LSu-2 
5.3.2.19  LSv 
Turn in the edge of one ply of material, turn the turned -in edge under the ply, and insert a strip of material so 
that one edge of the strip is between the body and the folded edge of the ply. Turn in the opposite edge of the 
strip and seam each side with one row of stitches.  
 
Figure 138 — LSv-2 
5.3.2.20  LSw 
Turn in twice each edge of a wide strip of material, insert a narrow strip between each turned -in edge and the 
body of the wide strip, lap one edge of the assembly on the turned -in edge of a ply, and seam each side with 
two rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 139 — LSw-4 
5.3.2.21  LSx 
Superimp ose two plies of material, fold a strip over the edges of the plies, and seam the plies and strip with 
one row of stitches. Then fold back the top ply and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
©RSB 2021 - All rights reserved                  50 
  
Figure 140 — LSx-2 
5.3.2.22  LSy 
Superimpose two plies of material, turn in the edges of a strip, fold it over the edges of the plies, and seam 
with one row of stitches. Then fold back the top ply and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 141 — LSy-2 
5.3.2.23  LSz 
Lap the edges of two or more pl ies of material, turn in the edges of a strip, superimpose it on the lapped 
edges, and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 142 — LSz-3 
5.3.2.24  LSaa  
Lap the edges of two or more plies of material, superimpose a stripon the lapped edges, a nd seam with three 
rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 143 — LSaa -3 
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 5.3.2.25  LSab  
Turn in the edges of a wide strip, lap it on a ply of material, superimpose the assembly on a narrow strip (with 
edges turned in), and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches so t hat one row passes through 
the outer edges of the strips, a second row passes through the bodies of the top strip and the ply and the 
inner edge of the bottom strip, and the remaining row(s) pass through the inner edge of the top strip and the 
ply. 
 
Figur e 144 — LSab -3 
5.3.2.26  LSac  
Superimpose a ply of material on a strip, the inner edge of which is turned in, fold a binding strip over the 
edges of the strip and the ply and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 145 — LSac -2 
5.3.2.27  LSad  
Superimpose a ply of material on a strip, the inner edge of which is turned in, fold a binding strip (having both 
edges turned in) over the edges of the strip and the ply, and seam with the appropriate number of rows of 
stitches.  
 
Figure 146 — LSad -2 
 
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 5.3.2.28  LSae  
Superimpose two plies of material, fold the top ply back, and seam through the fold and the body of the lower 
ply with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 147 — LSae -1 
5.3.2.29  LSaf  
Superimpose a ply of material on a strip, turn the edge of the ply under the edge of the strip, and seam with 
the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 148 — LSaf -2 
5.3.2.30  LSag  
Superimpose a ply of material on a strip, turn in the aligned edges, and seam with the appropriate number of 
rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 14 9 — LSag -2 
5.3.2.31  LSah  
Lap the turned -in edge of one ply of material on a second ply, insert a strip between the plies, and seam with 
the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 150 — LSah -1 
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 5.3.2.32  LSaj  
Lap the turned -in edge of one ply of material on a second ply; insert the aligned edges of a folded strip 
between the plies, and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 151 — LSaj -1 
5.3.2.33  LSak  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then turn back the bottom ply at the seam and seam wi th 
the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 152 — LSak -2 
5.3.2.34  LSal  
Make an S -shaped fold in one ply of material (at the specified distance from the edge), turn in the edge, 
superimpose the ply on a strip (with turned -in edges), and seam each side with the appropriate number of 
rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 153 — LSal -2 
5.3.2.35  LSam  
Make an S -shaped fold in one ply of material (at the specified distance from the edge), turn in the edge, insert 
a strip in the folds, superimpose the assembly on a second ply (with turned -in edges), and seam each side 
with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
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Figure 154 — LSam -2 
5.3.2.36  LSan  
Make an S -shaped fold in one ply of material (at the specified distance from the edge), turn the edge in twice, 
insert a strip in the fol ds, and seam each side with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 155 — LSan -2 
5.3.2.37  LSap  
Fold the edge of a ply of material, superimpose it on a folded strip, turn the aligned edges of the strip over the 
edge of the top ply, and seam with the app ropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 156 — LSap -1 
5.3.2.38  LSaq  
Fold the edge of a ply of material, turn the edge in, superimpose the ply on a folded strip, turn the aligned 
edges of the strip over the turned -in edge of the ply, and seam with the appropria te number of rows of 
stitches.  
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Figure 157 — LSaq -1 
5.3.2.39  LSar  
Turn in the edges of two strips of material, superimpose them, insert one or more plies of material between 
each pair of turned edges, and seam each side with the appropriate number of rows of stitc hes. 
 
Figure 158 — LSar -2 
5.3.2.40  LSas  
Turn in the edges of two plies of material, lap the turned edges one over the other, and seam with the 
appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 159 — LSas -2 
5.3.2.41  LSat  
Lap two plies of material (with turned -in edges), superimpose a strip over each turned edge, and seam 
through each strip with one row of stitches.  
 
Figure 160 — LSat -2 
 
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 5.3.2.42  LSau  
Turn in and interlap the edges of two plies of material, superimpose a strip over the turned -in edges, and 
seam with the appropriate  number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 161 — LSau -2 
5.3.2.43  LSav  
Lap two plies of material (with turned -in edges), superimpose a strip, and stitch with four rows of stitches, only 
two of which pass through the strip.  
 
Figure 162 — LSav -4 
5.3.2.44  LSaw  
Lap one ply of material on another to the specified distance from the edge of the bottom ply, turn in the edge 
of the bottom ply, and seam with two rows of stitches, one through the edge of the top ply and one through the 
turned -in edge of the bottom ply. Then turn back the top ply at the seam, and seam with one row of stitches 
through the topply and the edge of the bottom ply.  
 
Figure 163 — LSaw -3 
5.3.2.45  LSax  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then turn the top ply back at the seam, superimpose t he 
assembly on a strip (with turned -in edges), and seam with three rows of stitches, two of which pass through 
the folded edges of the top ply and the strip.  
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Figure 164 — LSax -4 
5.3.2.46  LSay  
Turn in the edges of a strip, superimpose on it a ply of material (with  turned -in edge), insert a strip between 
the turned -in edges, and seam each side with two rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 165 — LSay -4 
5.3.2.47  LSaz  
Form seam type LSa -2, using two plies of material. Then superimpose a strip on the joint, and seam each 
edge of the strip  to the underlying ply with one row of stitches.  
 
Figure 166 — LSaz -4 
5.3.2.48  LSba  
Turn in the edge of one ply of material, lap it on a second ply, and seam with two rows of stitches, only one 
row of which passes through the turned edge.  
 
Figure 167 — LSba -2 
 
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 5.3.2.49  LSbb 
Form seam type LSc -2. Then superimpose a strip over the joint and seam each edge of the strip to the 
underlying ply with one row of stitches.  
 
Figure 168 — LSbb -4 
5.3.2.50  LSbc  
Turn in the edges of each of two strips of material, superimpose the strips, insert a  ply between the turned -in 
edges at one side, and seam each side with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 169 — LSbc -2 
5.3.2.51  LSbd  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material, Then open the plies and turn back the edge of each ply, 
overlap the joint on two plies with the edge of the lower ply turned over the edge of the upper ply, and seam 
with one row of stitches through all plies on the side of the seam nearest to the turned edge of the bottom ply.  
 
Figure 170 — LSbd -2 
5.3.2.52  LSbe  
Form seam type  SSa-1, using two plies of material. Then open the plies and turn back the edge of each ply, 
lap the joint on two plies with the edge of the lower ply turned over the edge of the upper ply, and seam with 
one row of stitches through all plies on the side of  the seam furthest from the turned edge of the bottom ply.  
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Figure 171 — LSbe -2 
5.3.2.53  LSbf  
Turn in the edges of a strip, so fold it over the edge of a ply of material that the upper turned -in edge of the 
strip overlaps the ply more than does the lower turned -in edge, seam each turned edge with one row of 
stitches and, when relevant, seam the folded edge of the strip with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 172 — LSbf -2 
5.3.2.54  LSbg  
Make a Z -shaped fold in one ply of material (at the specified distance f rom the edge), insert a second ply into 
the fold nearer the edge, and seam with one row of stitches; then fold back the upper ply.  
 
Figure 173 — LSbg -1 
5.3.2.55  LSbh  
Turn in the edges of a strip, fold it around the edge(s) of one or more plies of material, insert a strip between 
one turned -in edge of the strip and the ply or plies of material, and seam with the appropriate number of rows 
of stitches.  
 
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Figure 174 — LSbh -1 
5.3.2.56  LSbj  
Superimpose a strip on a ply of material and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches positioned 
at the specified distances) from the edge of the strip.  
 
 
Figure 175 — LSbj -1 
5.3.2.57  LSbk  
Form seam type LSbj -1. Then turn the strip back at the seam and seam through the turned edge and ply with 
the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 176 — LSbk -2 
5.3.2.58  LSbl  
Form seam type LSbj -1. Then turn the strip back at the seam and seam with one row of stitches through the 
strip and ply.  
 
Figure 177 — LSbl -2 
5.3.2.59  LSbm  
Form seam type SSa -2 (using two plies of material) with one row of overedge  stitches. Then turn the top ply 
back at the seam and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
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Figure 178 — LSbm -3 
5.3.2.60  LSbn  
Form seam type SSab -1. Then turn back the bottom ply and the strip at the seam, turn in the edge of the strip, 
and seam w ith one row of stitches through the turned edge and the bottom ply.  
 
 
Figure 179 — LSbn -2 
5.3.2.61  LSbo  
Form stitching type EFa -1, turn in the edge of a second ply of material, lap it on the first ply, and seam through 
each turned edge with one row of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 180 — LSbo -3 
5.3.2.62  LSbp  
Form seam type SSa -1, using three or more plies of material. Then turn back the top ply at the seam and 
seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches. Turn back the bottom ply.  
 
Figure 181 — LSbp -2 
 
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 5.3.2.63  LSbq  
Form stitching type  EFa-1, and superimpose the ply on a second ply of material. Then turn in the edge of a 
third ply, lap it over the first ply, and seam with one row of stitches through the folded edge of the third ply. 
Turn back the bottom ply.  
 
Figure 182 — LSbq -2 
5.3.2.64  LSbr  
Form seam type SSa -1, using a strip on one ply of material. Superimpose the joint on a second ply and seam 
with one row of stitches positioned between the first row of stitches and the edges. Then turn back the bottom 
ply and the strip at the seam, turn in the edge of the strip, and seam the turned edge to the bottom ply with 
one row of stitches.  
 
Figure 183 — LSbr -3 
5.3.2.65  LSbs  
Turn in the edge of one ply of material, lap it on a second ply, superimpose a strip on the turned edge, and 
seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 184 — LSbs -1 
5.3.2.66  LSbt  
Form seam type LSd -1. Then superimpose a strip on the turned edge and seam with the appropriate number 
of rows of stitches.  
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Figure 185 — LSbt -2 
5.3.2.67  LSbu  
Form seam type SSa -1, using a ply of material on a  strip. Then fold back the ply and seam through the fold 
and the strip with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 186 — LSbu -2 
5.3.2.68  LSbv  
Superimpose a strip on a folded ply of material and seam with one row of stitches. Turn back the edge of a 
second ply of material, superimpose it on the strip, and seam with one row of stitches through the turned 
edge. Then fold back the top ply and seam with one row of stitches at the specified distance from the folded 
edge.  
 
Figure 187 — LSbv -3 
5.3.2.69  LSbw  
Form seam  type SSa -1 (using two strips) on two or more plies of material. Then turn the top strip back at the 
seam and around the edges, turn the bottom ply back at the seam and stitch through all plies with one row of 
stitches. Seam the other edge of the second st rip to the ply (plies) with one row of stitches.  
 
Figure 188 — LSbw -3 
 
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 5.3.2.70  LSbx  
Form stitching type EFa -1. Then superimpose the turned edge on a second ply of material and seam with one 
row of stitches. Lap the assembly on one or more plies and seam with one r ow of stitches through all the plies.  
 
Figure 189 — LSbx -3 
5.3.2.71  LSby  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Turn the top ply back at the seam, fold back the bottom 
ply, and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches through the fold.  
 
Figure 190 — LSby -2 
5.3.2.72  LSbz  
Form stitching type EFa -1. Then lap a second ply on the turned edge and seam with one row of stitches. Turn 
the top ply back at the seam and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches through the turned 
edges.  
 
Figure 19 1 — LSbz -3 
5.3.2.73  LSca  
Superimpose a strip on the turned edge of a ply of material and seam with one row of stitches. Then turn the 
strip back at the seam and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
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Figure 192 — LSca -2 
5.3.2.74  LScb  
Form seam type SSa -1, using three plies of material. Then turn the top ply back at the seam, fold back the two 
bottom plies, superimpose the assembly on one or more plies of material, and seam with the appropriate 
number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 193 — LScb -2 
5.3.2.75  LScc  
Form seam  type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then turn back each ply at the seam, superimpose the 
assembly on another ply, and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 194 — LScc -2 
5.3.2.76  LScd  
Superimpose two or more plies of material, fold back the edges, and seam with the appropriate number of 
rows of stitches. Lap another two plies of material on the turned edges and seam with one row of stitches. 
Turn these two plies back at the seam and seam with one row of stitches through all the plies . 
 
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Figure 195 — LScd -3 
5.3.2.77  LSce  
Form stitching type EFa -1. Superimpose the turned edge on a second ply and seam with the appropriate 
number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 196 — LSce -2 
5.3.2.78  LScf  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then turn back the b ottom ply at the seam, superimpose a 
third ply with its edge turned in, and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 197 — LScf -2 
5.3.2.79  LScg  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then turn back the bottom ply at the seam, super impose a 
third ply with its edge folded in, and seam with one row of stitches through the folded edge and middle ply.  
 
Figure 198 — LScg -2 
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 5.3.2.80  LSch  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then turn back the bottom ply at the seam, superimpose a 
third ply, and seam with one row of stitches through the top and middle plies.  
 
Figure 199 — LSch -2 
5.3.2.81  LScj  
Form seam type SSa -1, using one ply of material on a strip. Then turn back the strip at the seam and turn in 
the edge; superimpose a second strip with th e edge turned in, and seam with one row of stitches through the 
turned edges and one row through the strip and the ply.  
 
Figure 200 — LScj -3 
5.3.2.82  LSck  
Form seam type SSa -1, using one ply of material on a strip. Then turn back the strip at the seam and turn in 
the edge; superimpose a strip with the edge turned in, and seam each side with the appropriate number of 
rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 201 — LSck -3 
5.3.2.83  LScl  
Form seam type SSa -1, using one ply of material on a strip. Then turn back the strip at the seam and turn in 
the edge; superimpose a strip with both edges turned in, and seam each side with one or more rows of 
stitches . 
 
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Figure 202 — LScl -3 
5.3.2.84  LScm  
Form seam type SSa -1, using a strip on each side of a ply of material. Then turn the strips back at the seam, 
turn in the edges of the strips, and seam each edge with one row of stitches, ensuring that the inner row is 
positioned between the first seam and the turned edges of the strips.  
 
Figure 203 — LScm -3 
5.3.2.85  LScn  
Form seam type SSa -1, using a ply of material on a stri p. Then turn back the strip at the seam and turn in the 
edge; superimpose a strip with both edges turned in, and seam each side with the appropriate number of rows 
of stitches, ensuring that one row of stitches passes through the strip and the ply.  
 
Figur e 204 — LScn -3 
5.3.2.86  LSco  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two strips of material. Then turn back the lower strip at the seam, superimpose 
one edge on a ply and seam the aligned edges with one row of stitches; turn the strips to cover the edges, 
turn in the edge of t he upper strip, and seam each side with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
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69                ©RSB 2021  - All rights reserved  
  
Figure 205 — LSco -4 
 
5.3.2.87  LScp  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two strips of material. Then turn back the lower strip at the seam, superimpose 
one edge on a ply and seam the alig ned edges with one row of stitches; turn the strips to cover the edges, 
turn in the edge of the upper strip, and seam through the turned edge and the ply with one row of stitches. 
Seam the outer edge with one row of stitches.  
 
Figure 206 — LScp -4 
 
5.3.2.88  LScq  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two strips of material. Then turn back the lower strip at the seam, superimpose 
one edge on a ply and seam the aligned edges with one row of stitches; turn the strips to cover the edges, 
and seam each side with the appropriate n umber of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 207 — LScq -4 
 
5.3.2.89  LScr  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two strips of material. Then turn back the lower strip at the seam, superimpose 
one edge on a ply, and seam the aligned edges with one row of stitches; turn the strips to co ver the edges, 
seam the edge and the ply with one row of stitches, and seam the outer edge with one row of stitches.  
 
©RSB 2021 - All rights reserved                  70 
  
Figure 208 — LScr -4 
 
5.3.2.90  LScs  
Form seam type SSa -l, using two plies of material. Then turn the bottom ply back at the seam, fold in the 
align ed edges, and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 209 — LScs -2 
 
5.3.2.91  LSct  
Form seam type SSa -1, using a strip on a ply of material. Then turn each back at the seam, turn in the edge of 
the strip, and seam to the ply with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 210 — LSct -2 
 
5.3.2.92  LScu  
Form seam type LSa -1, using two plies of material. Then turn the top ply back at the seam and seam through 
both plies with one row of stitches.  
 
Figure 211 — LScu -2 
 
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 5.3.2.93  LScv  
Form seam type SSa-1, using two plies of material. Then open the plies and turn back each edge. 
Superimpose the joint on a third ply and seam each side with one row of stitches, only one of which passes 
through a turned edge.  
 
Figure 212 — LScv -3 
 
5.3.2.94  LScw  
Fold a strip of m aterial and seam with one row of stitches. Then turn the material inside out with the seam 
open and centrally positioned; superimpose the assembly on a ply and seam each side with one row of 
stitches.  
 
Figure 213 — LScw -3 
 
5.3.2.95  LScx  
Fold a strip of material an d seam with one row of stitches. Then turn the material inside out with the seam at 
one edge; superimpose the assembly on a ply and seam each side with one row of stitches.  
 
Figure 214 — LScx -3 
 
5.3.2.96  LScy  
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material. Then  turn back the top ply at the seam, superimpose a 
strip and seam at each side with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
©RSB 2021 - All rights reserved                  72 
  
Figure 215 — LScy -3 
 
5.3.2.97  LScz  
Turn in the edge of a strip of material, lap it on three superimposed plies, and seam with one row of  stitches. 
Turn the edge of the strip round the edges of the plies and lap the turned edge on the aligned edges of three 
additional plies, and seam through all plies with one row of stitches.  
 
Figure 216 — LScz -2 
 
5.3.2.98  LSda  
Make an S -shaped fold at the edge of  a ply of material, turn in both edges of a strip, fold it round the S -fold 
and seam with two rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 217 — LSda -2 
 
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73                ©RSB 2021  - All rights reserved  
 5.3.2.99  LSdb  
Form seam type SSa -1, using a ply of material on a strip. Then turn the strip back at the seam and round the 
edge of  the ply, turn in the edge of the strip, and seam the turned edge to the ply with one row of stitches.  
 
Figure 218 — LSdb -2 
 
5.3.2.100  LSdc  
Form stitching type EFa -1. Then turn in the edge of a second ply of material, lap it on the turned edge, and 
seam through eac h turned edge with one row of stitches.  
 
Figure 219 — LSdc -3 
 
5.3.3  Seam class BS  
5.3.3.1  BSa 
Fold a binding strip round the edge of a ply or plies of material and seam with the appropriate number of rows 
of stitches.  
 
Figure 220 — BSa-1 
 
5.3.3.2  BSb 
Turn in one edge of a binding strip, fold the strip round the edge of a ply or plies of material, and seam with 
the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
©RSB 2021 - All rights reserved                  74 
  
Figure 221 — BSb-1 
 
5.3.3.3  BSc 
Turn in both edges of a binding strip, fold it round the edge of a ply or plies of material, and  seam with the 
appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 222 — BSc-1 
 
5.3.3.4  BSd 
Fold a binding strip round the aligned edges of plies of material, seam with one row of stitches, and seam the 
plies of material with a second row of stitches positioned clear  of the strip.  
 
Figure 223 — BSd-2 
 
5.3.3.5  BSe 
Turn in both edges of a binding strip, fold it round the aligned edges of plies of material, seam with one row of 
stitches, and seam the plies of material with another row of stitches, positioned clear of the strip.  
 
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Figure 224 — BSe-2 
5.3.3.6  BSf 
Form seam type SSa -1, using a strip on a ply of material. Then turn the strip back at the seam and round the 
aligned edges and seam the strip to the ply with one row of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 225 — BSf-2 
5.3.3.7  BSg 
Form seam type SSa -1, using a ply of material on a strip. Then turn the strip back at the seam and round the 
aligned edges, turn in the edge of the strip, and seam this turned -in edge to the ply with one row of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 226 — BSg-2 
5.3.3.8  BSh 
Form seam type SSa -l, using two  plies of material. Then fold a binding strip over the aligned edges and seam 
with two rows of stitches.  
 
Figure 226 — BSh-3 
 
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5.3.3.9  BSj 
Form seam type SSa -1, using a ply of material on a strip. Then turn the strip back at the seam, round the 
aligned edges, turn  in the edge of the strip, and seam through the turned edges with one row of stitches.  
 
Figure 227 — BSj-2 
 
5.3.3.10  BSk 
Turn in both edges of a binding strip, fold it round the aligned edges of one or more plies of material and a 
folded strip, and seam through th e turned and the aligned edges with the appropriate number of rows of 
stitches.  
 
 
Figure 228 — BSk-1 
5.3.3.11  BSl 
Form seam type SSa -1, using a strip on a ply of material. Fold back the strip, then fold it round the aligned 
edges, turn in the edge of the strip, and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 229 — BSl-4 
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 5.3.3.12  BSm  
Form seam type SSa -1, using a strip on a ply of material. Fold back the ply, then turn back the strip at the 
seam, turn in the other edge, and seam each edge of the strip to the ply with one row of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 230 — BSm -3 
 
5.3.3.13  BSn 
Form seam type SSa -1, using a strip on a ply of material. Then fold back the strip with a tape inserted, fold the 
strip round and under the aligned edges, turn in the edge, and seam with the a ppropriate number of rows of 
stitches.  
 
Figure 231 — BSn-4 
5.3.3.14  BSo 
Form seam type SSbd -1, using a ply of material on a strip. Then turn the strip back at the seam, fold it round 
the edge of the ply, turn in the edge and seam through the turned edges with one row of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 232 — BSo-2 
5.3.3.15  BSp 
Form seam type SSa -1, using a strip on a ply of material. Then turn the strip back at the seam and round the 
aligned edges, and seam through the turned edge with one row of stitches.  
 
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Figure 233 — BSp-2 
5.3.3.16  BSq 
Form  seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material, and turn back each ply at the seam. Then turn in both 
edges of a binding strip, fold it round the edges of the plies, and seam the folded edges of the strip and the 
plies with one row of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 234 — BSq-2 
5.3.3.17  BSr 
Form seam type SSa -1, using a strip on a ply of material. Then turn the strip back at the seam, fold it round 
the edge of the ply, and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 235 — BSr-3 
5.3.3.18  BSs 
Make an S -shaped fold at the edge of a ply of material. Then turn in both edges of a strip, fold it round the S -
fold, and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
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Figure 236 — BSs-2 
5.3.4  Seam class FS  
5.3.4.1  FSa 
Abut the edges of two or more plies of material and seam with one row of stitches that extends across and 
covers the abutted edges.  
 
 
Figure 237 — FSa-1 
5.3.4.2  FSb 
Turn in the edge of one ply of material, abut it against the edge of a second ply, and seam with one row of 
stitches that extends across and covers the abu tted edges.  
 
 
Figure 238 — FSb-1 
5.3.4.3  FSc 
Turn in the edges of two plies of material, abut the turned edges, and seam with one row of stitches that 
extends across and covers the abutted edges.  
 
 
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Figure 239 — FSc-1 
5.3.4.4  FSd 
Form seam type FSa -1, using two plies of  material. Then lap the abutted edges on a strip and seam each side 
with one row of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 240 — FSd-3 
5.3.4.5  FSe 
Abut the edges of two plies of material and lap them on a strip. Then seam the assembly with one row of 
stitches that extends across and  covers the abutted edges.  
 
 
Figure 241 — FSe-1 
5.3.4.6  FSf 
Form seam type SSa -1, using two plies of material and seaming with an overedge stitch. Then open the plies.  
 
 
Figure 242 — FSf-1 
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 5.4 Stitching types and classes  
5.4.1  Stitching class OS  
5.4.1.1  OSa 
Stitch one ply of material with the appropriate number of straight, curved, or patterned rows of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 243 — OSa-1 
5.4.1.2  OSb 
So insert a cord between a ply of material and the locking thread of the stitch as to produce a corded effect on 
the surface of the ply.  
 
 
Figure 244 — OSb-1 
5.4.1.3  OSc 
Form a rifge in the body of a ply of material and so stitch the ridge as to produce a corded effect on the 
surface of the ply.  
 
 
Figure 245 — OSc-1 
5.4.1.4  OSd 
Insert a cord or cords between two plies of material and stitch with one row of stitches on each side of each 
cord.  
 
 
Figure 246 — OSd-2 
 
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 5.4.1.5  OSe 
Make an S -shaped fold or a Z -shaped fold (as specified) in a ply of material and stitch through the fold with 
the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 247 — OSe-1 
5.4.1.6  OSf 
Fold a ply of material and stitch through the fold with the appropriate number of rows of stitches positioned at 
the specified distances) from the folded edge.  
 
 
Figure 248 — OSf-1 
5.4.1.7  OSg 
Form stitching type OSf -1. Then distribute an equal amount of the material in the fo ld to each side of the 
seam, turn each underlying portion of material aside separately, and stitch through the fold with one row of 
stitches positioned at the specified distance from each turned edge. Open both plies.  
 
 
Figure 249 — OSg-3 
5.4.1.8  OSh 
Make an S-shaped fold or a Z -shaped fold (as specified) in a ply of material, insert a cord in the fold, and 
stitch the fold to the ply with the appropriate number of rows  of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 250 — OSh-1 
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 5.4.2  Stitching class EF  
5.4.2.1  EFa 
Turn in the specified width at the  edge of a ply of material and stitch the turned edge with the appropriate 
number of rows of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 251 — EFa-1 
5.4.2.2  EFb 
Turn in the specified width at the edge of a ply of material, fold back the turned edge, and stitch the turned -in 
and folded po rtion with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 252 — EFb-1 
5.4.2.3  EFc 
Make an S -shaped fold or a Z -shaped fold (as specified) in a ply of material and so stitch the raw edge to the 
folded edge with one row of stitches that the needle only partially penetrates the folded edge and when the 
material is laid flat, the stitches do not show on the surface of the material.  
 
 
Figure 253 — EFc-1 
5.4.2.4  EFd 
Stitch over the edge of a ply of material with one row of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 254 — EFd-1 
 
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 5.4.2.5  EFe 
Turn in the edge of a ply of material and stitch over the turned -in edge with one row of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 255 — EFe-1 
5.4.2.6  EFf 
Turn in twice the edge of a ply of material, insert a strip between the fold and the body, and stitch with the 
appropriate number of row s of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 256 — EFf-1 
5.4.2.7  EFg 
Turn in the edge of a ply of material, fold it back under the body of the material, insert a strip between the fold 
and the body, and so stitch with the appropriate number of rows of stitches that the strip is secur ed with one or 
more rows, as specified.  
 
 
Figure 257 — EFg-2 
5.4.2.8  EFh 
Turn in the edges of a strip of material, abut the edges, and stitch the abutted edges with one row of stitches 
that extends across and covers the edges.  
 
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Figure 258 — EFh-1 
5.4.2.9  EFj 
Fold a strip of material, overlap the edges, turn in the lower edge, stitch through the edges with one row of 
stitches, and (when relevant) stitch each folded edge with one row of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 259 — EFj-1 
5.4.2.10  EFk 
Make an S -shaped fold in a ply of material, tur n the edge in to the top fold, and stitch with the appropriate 
number of rows of stitches through each side of the fold.  
 
 
Figure 260 — EFk-2 
5.4.2.11  EFl 
Fold back the edge of a ply of material and so stitch with one row of stitches that the stitches overedge the  
edge, the needle only partially penetrates the body material, and the stitches do not show on the outer surface 
of the material.  
 
 
Figure 261 — EFl-1 
 
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 5.4.2.12  EFm  
Turn in the edge of a ply of material, fold back the turned edge and so stitch the turned -in edge to  the body 
with one row of stitches that the needle only partially penetrates the body material, and the stitches do not 
show on the surface of the material.  
 
 
Figure 262 — EFm -1 
5.4.2.13  EFn 
Turn in both edges of each of two strips of material, superimpose the strips, and seam with two or four rows of 
stitches (as relevant).  
 
 
Figure 263 — EFn-2 
5.4.2.14  EFp 
Turn in both edges of a strip of material, fold the strip so that the turned -in edges are aligned, and seam one 
side or each side (as relevant) with one row of stit ches.  
 
 
Figure 264 — EFp-1 
5.4.2.15  EFq 
Fold and turn in the edge of a ply of material around a strip, and so stitch with two or four rows of stitches (as 
relevant) that the strip is secured with each row of stitches.  
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Figure 265 — EFq-2 
5.4.2.16  EFr 
Fold and turn in the  edge of a ply of material around a strip, and so stitch each edge of the material with one 
row of stitches that the stitches do not pass through the strip.  
 
 
Figure 266 — EFr-2 
5.4.2.17  EFs 
Turn in both edges of a strip of material, abut  the turned -in edges, and stitch with one row of stitches through 
each edge.  
 
 
Figure 267 — EFs-2 
5.4.2.18  EFt 
Turn in the edge of a ply of material, fold it back, and stitch with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 268 — EFt-2 
 
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 5.4.2.19  EFu 
Fold a ply of material (with the face inside) and stitch along the aligned edges with one row of stitches. Then 
turn the material (face out) to form a cylinder.  
 
 
Figure 269 — EFu-1 
5.4.2.20  EFv 
Make an S -shaped fold in a ply of material (at the specified distance from the edge ), turn the edge into the top 
fold, insert a strip between the body and the folded -in edge, and stitch with two or four rows of stitches (as 
relevant).  
 
 
Figure 270 — EFv-2 
5.4.2.21  EFw 
Fold back the edge of a ply of material, fold the edge in and back under the turned portion to give a thickness 
of four plies, and stitch with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 271 — EFw-1 
5.4.2.22  EFx 
Fold back the edge of a ply of material, fold the edge partly in and back under the turned portion to give a part 
thickn ess of four plies, and stitch with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
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Figure 272 — EFx-1 
5.4.2.23  EFy 
Fold a strip of material, overlap the edges, and stitch with one row of stitches, and (when relevant) stitch each 
folded edge with one row of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 273 — EFy-1 
5.4.2.24  EFz 
Turn in one edge of a strip of material, fold the strip so that the edges are aligned, and stitch one side or each 
side (as relevant) with one row of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 274 — EFz-1 
5.4.2.25  EFaa  
Fold a strip of material twice so as to fo rm three plies and stitch with one or two rows of stitches (as relevant).  
 
 
Figure 275 — EFaa -1 
 
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 5.4.2.26  EFab  
Turn in the edge of a ply of material, fold back the turned -in edge, axed stitch with the appropriate number of 
rows of stitches over the turned and folded edge.  
 
 
Figure 276 — EFab -1 
5.4.2.27  EFac  
Turn in both edges of a strip of material, fold the strip round a second strip, abut the turned -in edges, and 
stitch with one row of stitches through each turned -in edge.  
 
 
Figure 277 — EFac -2 
5.4.2.28  EFad  
Turn in both edges of a strip of material, fold the strip so that the edges are aligned, insert a second strip, and 
stitch each side with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 278 — EFad -2 
5.4.2.29  EFae  
Turn in both edges of a strip of material, abut the turned -in edges, and so stitch with one row of stitches 
extending across and covering the abutted edges of the material that the needle only partially penetrates the 
ply and the stitches do not show on the outer surface.  
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Figure 279 — EFae -1 
5.4.2.30  EFaf  
Form stitching  type EFd -1. Then turn in the stitchel edge and stitch over the turned edge with the appropriate 
number of rows of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 280 — EFaf -2 
5.4.2.31  EFag  
Form stitching type EFd -1. Then turn in and fold over the stitched edge, and stitch over the turned edg e with 
the appropriate number of rows of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 281 — EFag -2 
5.4.2.32  EFah  
Make an S -shaped fold or a Z -shaped fold (as specified) in the edge of a ply of material, turn in the edge, 
superimpose it on the fold, and stitch through the turned -in edge with one row of stitches.  
 
 
Figure 282 — EFah -1 
 
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