DEAS  168: 2019  
ICS 59.080.3 0 
 
 
© EAC 2019                                                                                                                              First Edition 2019   
 DRAFT  EAST AFRICAN STANDARD  
Textiles  — Kikoi — Specification  
EAST AFRICAN COMMUNITY  DEAS  168: 2019  
ii © EAC  2019 – All rights reserved  
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 DEAS  168: 2019 
© EAC 2019 – All rights reserved  iii 
 Foreword  
Development of the East African Standards has been nec essitated by the need for harmonizing requirements 
governing quality of products and services in the East African Community. It is envisaged that through 
harmonized standardization, trade barriers that are encountered when goods and services are exchanged 
within the Community will be removed.  
The Community has established an East African Standards Committee  (EASC)  mandated to develop and 
issue East African Standards  (EAS) . The Committee is composed of representatives of the National 
Standards Bodies in Par tner States, together with the representatives from the public and private sector 
organizations  in the community .  
East African Standards are developed through  Technical Committees that are representative of key 
stakeholders including government, academia,  consumer groups, private sector and other interested parties. 
Draft East African Standards are circulated to stakeholders through the National Standards Bodies in the 
Partner States. The comments received are discussed and incorporated before finalization  of standards, in 
accordance with the Principles and procedures for development of East African Standards.  
East African Standards are subject to review, to keep pace with technological advances. Users of the East 
African Standards are therefore expected t o ensure that they always have the latest versions of the standards 
they are implementing .  
The committee responsible  for this document is Technical Committee EASC/TC 061, Textiles t extile products 
and accessories . 
Attention is drawn to the possibility tha t some of the elements of this document may be subject of patent 
rights. EAC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.  DRAFT  EAST AFRICAN STANDARD  DEAS  168:2019 
 
© EAC 2019 – All rights reserved  1 
 Textiles  — Kikoi  — Specification  
1 Scope   
This Draft  East Africa n Standard  specifies the requirement s, sampling and test methods  for Kikoi  (also known 
as “Kikoy”) . 
2 Normative references   
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content constitutes 
requirements of this document.  For dated references, onl y the edition cited applies. For undated references, 
the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.  
ISO 105 -B01, Textiles – Tests for colour fastness – Part B01: Colour fastness to light: Daylight  
ISO 105 -C10, Textiles – Tests for colour fastness – Part C10: Colour fastness to washing with soap or soap 
and soda  
ISO 105-D01, Colour  fastness  to dry cleaning  using  perchloroethylene  solvent  
ISO 105-E04, Tests  for colour  fastness  – Part E04: Colour  fastness  to perspiration  
ISO 105-X11, Colourfastness  to hot pressing  
ISO 105 -X12, Textiles – Tests for colour fastness – Part X12: Colour fastness to rubbing  
ISO 1833  (all parts) , Textiles – Quantitative chemical analysis  
ISO 3071 , Textiles – Determination of pH of aqueous extract  
ISO 3175 , Textiles – Determination of dimensional change on dry cleaning in perchlorethylene – Machine 
method  
ISO 3758,  Textiles – Care labelling code using symbols  
ISO 3801 , Textiles – Woven fabrics – Determination of mass per unit length and mass per unit a rea 
ISO 5077 , Textiles – Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying  
ISO 6330,  Domestic  washing  and drying  procedures  for textile  testing   
ISO 6939 , Textiles – Yarns from packages – Method of test for breaking strength of yarn by the skein me thod  
ISO 12945 -2, Textiles – Determination of the fabric propensity to surface pilling, fuzzing or matting  – Part 2: 
Modified Martindale Method  
ISO 13934 -1, Textiles – Tensile properties of fabrics – Part 1: Determination of  maximum force and elongation 
at maximum force using the strip method   
2 © EAC  2019 – All rights reserved  
 ISO 13936 -1, Textiles – Determination of the slippage resistance of yarns at a seam in woven fabrics – Part 1: 
Fixed seam opening method  
ISO 13937 -2, Textiles – Tear properties of fabrics – Part 2: Determination of tea r force of trouser shaped 
specimens (Single tear method)  
ISO 14 362-1, Textiles – Methods for determination of certain aromatic amines derived from azo colourants – 
Part 1: Detection of the use of certain azo colourants accessible with and without extractin g the fibres  
ISO 14362 -3, Textiles – Methods for determination of certain aromatic amines derived from azo colourants – 
Part 3: Detection of the use of certain azo colourants accessible which may release 4 -aminoazobenzene  
ISO 16373 -2, Textiles – Dyestuffs  – Part 2: General method for determination of extractable dyestuffs 
including allergenic and carcinogenic dyestuffs (method using pyridine -water)  
ISO 16373 -3, Textiles – Dyestuffs – Part 3: Method for determination of certain carcinogenic dyestuffs 
(metho d using trimethylamine/methanol)  
ISO 22198 , Textiles – Fabrics – Determination of width and length  
ISO 24153, Random sampling and randomization procedures  
3 Terms and definitions   
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply . 
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:  
— ISO o nline browsing platform: available at http://www.iso.org/obp  
3.1  
Kikoi   
rectangular plain weave cloth with fringes at both ends and woven vertical or horiz ontal stripes of coloured 
yarns  
NOTE:  
1. Kikoi is a multipurpose unisex cloth. It is generally worn round the waist by certain communities as an 
indoor dress. It is also worn round the waist over other dressing  as a dust over -coat. It is also worn 
round the neck and shoulders for warmth and decoration. Other communities also use it as an 
outdoor dress.  
2. Kikoi is generally made from 100 per cent cotton fibres. However, other fibres notably acrylic, are also 
being used in the manufacture of Kikoi. 
3. It could be plain dyed, bleached or stripped with coloured yarn at the selvedges or main body  
3.2  
fringe   
An edging or border of loose threads  on top and bottom of Kikoi 
NOTE  These fringes are produced by the constituent threads. The threads forming the fringes are sometimes  
bunched or knotted together to increase the decorative effect . 
3.3  
plain weave  
fabric formed by interlacing odd warp threads (vertical) with even weft threads (horizontal)  
NOTE  A plain weave does not necessarily result in a plain surface effect i.e. yarns of the same size (count or design  
effect) .  
© EAC 2019 – All rights reserved  3 
 4 Requirements  
4.1 Fabric Fibre Composition and Proportion  
The fabric fibre composition shall be as given in Table 1 and the proportion  shall be as declared , subject to a 
tolerance of  ± 5 % for blends . This shall be determined in accordance with ISO 1833 . 
4.2 Dimensions   
The length  (excluding fr inges)  and width of the kikoi shall be as declared   with a tolerance of ± 3 %. This shall 
be determined in  accordance  with ISO 22198.  
The minimum length of fringe at either end of a kikoi shall be 5 cm.  
4.3 Specific requirements  
Kikoi shall comply with the specific requirements given in Table 1 when tested in accordance with the methods 
specified therein.  
Table 1 – Speci fic requirements for Kikoi  
Parameter  
 FABRIC FIBRE COMPOSITION  Test method  
100 % 
Cotton  Polyester/ 
Cotton 
blend  100 % 
Wool  100 % Acrylic  
Mass  per unit area, g /m2, min.  
  120 100 150 150 ISO 3801  
Breaking Force, N , 
min. Warp  400 500 350 420 ISO 13934 -1 
Weft 280 350 250 250 
Tear Resistance, N , 
min. Warp  100 120 80 90 ISO 13937 -2 
Weft 80 100 70 80 
Resistance to Yarn 
Slippage, Force (N) at 
3mm opening , min.  Warp  100 100 100 100 ISO 13936 -1 
Weft 100 100 100 100 
Dimensional changes 
after 5 washi ngs, ± %  Warp  ±5 ±5 ±5 ±5 ISO 5077 a 
Weft ±3 ±3 ±3 ±3 
Dimensional changes 
after 3 dry -cleanings , 
%, Warp  ± 2 ±2 ±2 ±2 ISO 3175  
Weft ±1 ±1 ±1 ±1 
Pilling resistance, grade at 500 
rubs, min.  4 4 4 4 ISO 12945 -2 
pH of aqueous extract  6 – 8.5 6 – 8.5 6 – 8.5 6 – 8.5 ISO 3071  
aUse procedure 6N in ISO 6330.  
 
4.4Colour Fastness  
The colour fastness of kikoi fabric shall be as specified in Table 2 .  
4 © EAC  2019 – All rights reserved  
 Table 2 – Colour fastness requirements  
 
COLOUR FASTNESS TO:   
NUMERICAL RATING MINIMUM  
  
METHOD OF TEST  
 
Colour Change  Staining  
Light  5 - ISO 105 -B01 
Washing  4 4 ISO 105 -C10 
Dry-cleaning  4 4 ISO 105 -D01 
Rubbing  Dry 4 4 ISO 105 -X12 
Wet 4 4 ISO 105 -X12 
Perspiration, acid and alkali  4 4 ISO 105 -E04 
Hot pressing  4 4 ISO 105 -X11 
 
5 Packaging  
Each piece(s) o f kikoi shall be neatly and securely wrapped in suitable material to prevent soiling and 
damage.  
6 Labelling  
6.1 Pieces  
Each piece or pair of kikoi shall have a label, securely attached, bearing the following information:  
a) manufacturer's name or registered trade mark;  
b) fabric fibre composition and percentage proportion;  
c) the declaration ‘Kikoi’  or “Kikoy” ; 
d) dimensions in cm;  
e) care instructions  in accordance with ISO 3758 ; and  
f) Country of origin  
6.2 Bulk Containers  
Each bulk container shall have a label, securely attached, bearing the following information:  
a) manufacturer's name or registered trade mark  and address ; 
b) the declaration ‘Kikoi’  or “Kikoy” ; 
c) quantity of pieces; and   
© EAC 2019 – All rights reserved  5 
 d) Country of origin  
7 SAMPLING  
Sampling shall be done in accordance with ISO 24153.  
7.1 Lot  
7.1.1 The quantity of the same type and quality delivered to one buyer against one dispat ch note shall 
constitute a lot.  
7.1.2  The conformity of the lot to the requirements of this Standard  shall be determined on the basis of tests 
carried out on the  sample s selected from the lot.  
7.1.3  The number of pieces to be selected at random from a lot shall be in accordance with Table 3.  
Table 3 – Sampling size and permissible number of non -conforming pieces  
 
Number of pieces   
in the lot  Sample size  for 
visual insp ection   Permissible no. 
Nonconforming pieces   Sub-sample size for  
testing  
  
Up   to 25  
26   to 50  
51   to 150  
151 to 300  
301 to 500  
501 to 1000  
1000 and above    
3  
5  
8  
13  
20  
32  
50    
0  
0  
0  
1  
1  
2  
3   
2  
2  
3  
3  
5  
5  
8  
 
 
 
 DEAS  168: 2019   
 
© EAC 2019 – All rights reserved