KENYA STANDARD              DKS 543 -2:2022  
                                                                                            
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
          Embroidery threads – Specification – 
        Part 2:  
        Polyester filament embroidery threads  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   © KEBS 202 2                                                                                     First Edition  2022  
 DKS 543 -2:2022  
 
ii  © KEBS 2022  — All rights reserved   
TECHNICAL COMMITTEE REPRESENTATION  
 
The following organizations were represented on the Technical Committee:  
 
Kenya Industrial Rese arch and Development  Institute  (KIRDI)  
State Department for Industrialization Directorate of Agro -Industries  
Spin Knit Ltd  
Kenya Association of Manufacturers (KAM)  
Kenya Agricultural & Livestock Research Organization (KALRO)  
Agriculture and Food Authority - Fibre Crops Directo rate (AFA -FCD)  
Rivatex East Africa Limited  
Moi University  
Technical University of Kenya - Department of Fashion, Clothing and Textiles  
Texfab B.S  
Intertek  International Ltd  
Ministry of State Defence -R&D Department  
Kenya Bureau of Standards — Secretariat  
 
 
 
 
 
 
REVISION OF KENYA STANDARDS  
 
In order to keep abreast of progress in industry, Kenya Standards shall be regularly reviewed. Suggestions 
for improvements to published standards, addressed to the Managing Director, Kenya Bureau of Standards, 
are welcome . 
 
 
 
© Kenya Bureau of Standards, 2022 
 
Copyright. Users are reminded that by virtue of Section 25 of the Copyright Act, Cap. 12 of 2001 of  the Laws of Kenya, copyright 
subsists in all Kenya Standards and except as provided under Section 26 of this Act, no Kenya Standard produced by Kenya Bureau of 
Standards may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system in any form or transmitted by any means without prior permission in  writing 
from the Managing Director . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 KENYA STANDARD                  DKS 543 -2:2022  
© KEBS 2022 — All rights reserved  iii  
 
 
 
 
 
 
Embroidery threads – Spec ification – 
Part 2:  
Polyester filament embroidery threads  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Kenya Bureau of Standards, Popo Road, Off Mombasa Road,  
P.O. Box 54974 - 00200,  Nairobi, Kenya  
 +254 020 6948000, + 254 722202137, + 254 734600471  
 info@kebs.org  
 @KEBS_k e 
 kenya bureau of standards (kebs)  
 
 
 
 DKS 543 -2:2022  
 
iv  © KEBS 2022  — All rights reserved  Foreword  
 
This Kenya Standard has been prepared by the Technical Committee on Yarns and Fibers  under guidance 
of the Standards Projects Committee, and it is in accordance with the procedures of the Kenya Bureau o f 
Standards.  
 
Polyester threads are preferred for embroidery, especially when a high colour -fastness that can withstand 
chlorine is required. These durable threads have outstanding mechanical and chemical resistance. A good 
quality thread will also run sm oothly at high speeds on various embroidery machines without looping.  The 
standards specify  the minimum requirements of polyester filament embroidery threads.  
 
During the development of this standard reference was made to the following:  
 
GB/TV28466 -2012 P olyester filament embroidery threads  
 
KS 543 -1:2000 Specification for embroidery threads  Part 1. Cotton embroidery threads  
 
Acknowledgment is hereby made for assistance received from this source.  
 
  
© KEBS 2022  — All rights reserved    1 1 SCOPE  
 
This Kenya Standard specifies re quirements for p olyester filament embroidery threads  
 
2 NORMATIVE REFERENCES  
 
The following referenced documents referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content 
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited  applies. For undated 
references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.  
 
KS ISO 1139, Textiles — Designation of yarns.  
 
KS ISO 1144, Textiles — Universal system for designating linear density (Tex System).  
 
KS ISO 2062, Textiles — Yarns from packages — Determination of single -end breaking force and elongation 
at break using constant rate of extension (CRE) tester.  
 
KS ISO 2060, Textiles — Yarn from packages — Determination of linear density (mass per unit length) by 
the skein method.  
 
KS ISO 105 -A02, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part A02: Grey scale for assessing change in 
colour  
 
KS ISO 105 -A03, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part A03: Grey scale for assessing staining  
 
KS ISO 105 -B01, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part B01: Colour fastness to light: Daylight  
 
KS ISO 105 -B02, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part B02: Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon 
arc fading lamp test  
 
KS ISO 105 -C10, Textiles — Tests for colour fastnes s — Part C10: Colour fastness to washing with soap or 
soap and soda  
 
KS ISO 105 -D01, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part D01: Colour fastness to drycleaning using 
perchloroethylene solvent  
 
KS ISO 105 -X11, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part X11: Colour fastness to hot pressing  
 
KS ISO 105 -X12, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part X12: Colour fastness to rubbing  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 DKS 543 -2:2022  
 
2  © KEBS 2022 — All rights reserved   
3. TERMS AND DEFINITIONS  
 
For the purpose of this Part 2  of this Kenya Standard,  definitions given in K S ISO 1139 and KS ISO 1144 
shall apply:  
 
4.  REQUIREMENTS  
 
 4.1 Classifications  
Polyester filament embroidery threads, according to different processes, are  classified into:  
 
- Dope colored polyester filament embroidery threads;  
- Dyed polyester filament e mbroidery threads (including original white  threads).  
 
4.2 Linear density  
 
The nominal linear density of the yarn shall be as declared, subject to a tolerance of  ± 3 per cent . This shall 
be determined in accordance with KS ISO 2060.   
 
The linear density de viation rate is calculated according to formula (1). The result retains 2 significant digits.  
The requirements of linear density deviation rate  shall be as specified in Table 2.  
 
 
 
 
Where,  
DT - Linear density deviation rate, %;  
Tt - Actual linear density,  in tex;  
T0 - Nominal linear density, in tex.  
 
4.3 single thread breaking strength and variation coefficient of single thread breaking 
strength  
 
The minimum breaking strength  of the yarn shall be as specified in Table 1.  The breaking strength  of the 
yarn s hall be determined in accordance with KS ISO 2062 . 
The Maximum variation coefficient of single thread breaking strength  shall be as specified in Table 2.  
 
4.4 Length  
 
4.4.1 The length measuring device used for length test shall meet the requirements of  KS ISO 2060.  
 
4.4.2 When testing the length, the pre -tension of single thread is  (0.5±0.1)cN/tex.  
 
4.4.3 When the sample is on the length gauge, after every 100m, it shall be set  aside and then continue 
shaking until all is done. If it is less than 1m long, u se a meter ruler to measure, to the nearest of 0.01m.  
 
4.4.4 The measured length shall be expressed as the arithmetic average of all  test values of the sample. 
Round the calculation result to one decimal place.  
 
4.4.5 The Length shall be as declared subjec t to deviation rates specified in table 2.  
 
 
 
 
                                                                                 DKS 543 -2:2022  
© KEBS 2022  — All rights reserved  3 4.5 Colour Fastness  
 
Colour fastness of dyed embroidery threads shall comply with the requirements given in Table 3, when 
tested in accordance with the test methods given there -in. 
 
 
4.6 Number of knots  
Fix the embroidery thread tube. On the embroidery thread rewinding machine, use mechanical yarn clearer 
to test.  The maximum number of knots per piece is as given in table 2.  
 
4.7 Appearance quality inspection  
 
4.7.1 Inspection conditions for appearance quality  
Use indoor north -facing natural light source. If the light source is insufficient,  when the illuminance is lower 
than 600lx, use D65 standard light source.  
 
4.7.2  Inspection rules for appearance quality  
In appearance quality inspection, except that the de pth of stain is evaluated  according to KS ISO 105 -A03, 
and the color difference (including colored flowers and  sandwich) is evaluated according to KS ISO 105 -A02, 
the rest are assessed via visual  inspection.  
 
Table 1 -Requirements of  single thread breaking strength   
 
SN Linear density/dtex (den) 
x number of single yarn  Single thread breaking strength/cN, Min . 
High -class product  First -class product  Conforming 
products  
i.  56(50) x 2  390 360 330 
ii.  78(70) x 2  530 500 470 
iii.  78(70) x 3  800 750 700 
iv.  89(80) x 2  
 610 570 540 
v.  110(100) x 2  750 700 650 
vi.  133(120) x 2  900 850 800 
vii.  167(150) x2  1100  1050  1000  
viii.  222(200) x 2  1500  1400  1300  
ix.  333(300) x 2  2250  2050  1850  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 DKS 543 -2:2022  
 
4  © KEBS 2022 — All rights reserved  Table 2 - Internal quality requirements of polyester filament embroidery threads  
 
SN Paramete r High -class 
product  First -class 
product  Conforming 
product  
i.  Variation coefficient of 
single thread  breaking 
strength, %, Max  Dope colored threads  6.0 9.0 12.0 
Dyed threads  8.0 11.0 13.0 
ii.  Linear density 
deviation rate, %  Dope colored threads  ±3 ±5 ±6 
Dyed threads  -3 
+10 -5 
+13 -6 
+16 
iii.  Length allowable 
deviation rate, %  1000m and below  -2.0 -2.5 -4.0 
1001 -5000m  -1.5 -2.0 -3.0 
5001 and above  -1.0 -1.5 -2.0 
iv.  Number of 
knots/piece, Max.  5000m  0 2 3 
 
 
 
Table  3- Colour fastness r equirements  
 
S/N Parameters  High -class 
product  First -class 
product  Conforming 
product  Test Method  
i.  Light, Min  5 5 5 KS ISO 105-B01 
KS ISO 105-B02 
ii.  Washing, Min  Colour change  4-5 4 3-4 KS ISO 105-C10 
Staining  4-5 4 3-4 
iii.  Rubbing, Min  Dry  4-5 4 3-4 KS ISO  105-X12 
Wet 4-5 4 3-4 
iv.  Drycleaning, 
Min Colour change  4-5 4 3-4 KS ISO 105-D01 
Staining  4-5 4 3-4 
v.  Hot pressing, 
Min Colour change  4-5 4 3-4 KS ISO 105 -X11 
Staining  4-5 4 3-4 
The color fastness index of dyed thread is reduced by half level. The color fa stness of the white thread  
and bleached  thread is not assessed.  
 
 
Table 4 -Requirements for appearance quality of polyester filament embroidery threads  
 
 
S/N Item High -class product  First -class product  Conforming product  
i.  Wool  Not allowed  No more than 2 per tube  No more than 5 per tube  
ii.  Stain  None  (1) Above level 4: the 
area does not exceed 
1cm2 or a single thread 
does not exceed  4cm;  (1) Above level 3: the area 
does  not exceed 1cm2 or a 
single thread  does not 
excee d 8cm;                                                                                  DKS 543 -2:2022  
© KEBS 2022  — All rights reserved  5 (2) Not allowed for level 3 
and below.  (2) Above level 2: the area 
does  not exceed 0.16cm2 
or a single  thread does not 
exceed 3cm;  
(3) Level 2 and below: the 
area does not exceed 
0.01cm2 
iii.  Hemp thread  Not allowed  Slight  Obvious  
iv.  Cobweb thread  Not allowed  The small end of the  
pagoda thr ead allows 2  
jumpers. The length of  
each jumper is no more  
than half a turn. Big head  
is not allowed.  The small end of the  
pagoda thread  
allows 4 jumpers.  
The length of each  
jumper is no more  
than half a turn. Big  
head is not allowed.  
v.  Surface knot  Not al lowed  Not allowed  Not allowed  
vi.  Color 
difference  
(including 
color  
flower,  
sandwich)  According 
to color  
card or 
sample  Not less than  
level 4  Not less than level 3 -4 Not less than level 3  
Between 
tube and  
tube Not less than  
level 4 -5 Not less than level 4  Not less than level 3  
 
 
 
4.8 Refer to Annex A for the twist and cross -section reference values of  polyester filament embroidery 
threads.  
 
4.9 Grading  
 
4.9.1 Grading of finished product quality  
 
The quality of finished polyester filament embroidery thread s is graded into  high-class product, first -class 
product and conforming product.  
 
4.9.2 Assessment rules  
a) Internal quality of polyester filament embroidery threads is assessed  according to batches and 
graded based on the lowest grading item.  
b) Appearance  quality is assessed based on pieces and g raded based on the lowest grading item.  
c) The final level of polyester filament embroidery thread is comprehensively  assessed by the level of 
internal quality and the level of appearance quality.  Grade d based on the lowe st grading item.  
 
 
5.  PACKAGING  
 
The embroidery thread shall be made up in the form of tubes, reels, balls, hanks or any other convenient form.  
 
6. MARKING  
 
Each tube, reel or ball shall be marked, preferably on a label, with the following information:  
 
a) 100 per cent polyester filament  embroidery thread.  
b) Nominal linear density ( tex). 
c) Grade i.e. (high -class product, first -class product or conforming product).  
 DKS 543 -2:2022  
 
6  © KEBS 2022 — All rights reserved  d) The length and mass of thread in a unit package.  
e) Batch  number.  
f) Manufacturer’s name, and  address or trade mark.  
g) Country of origin . 
7. SAMPLING  
 
Take the products of the same variety, same specification and same color as  an inspection lot. See Table 5 
for rules on sample quantity extracted per batch  for internal quality , colour fastness  as well as number of 
tests. See Table 6 for rules on sampling  quantity for appearance quality inspection.  
 
Table 5 -Rules on sampling quantity for internal quality, color fastness as well as  number of 
tests  
 
S/N Item  Plastic core thread, paper core 
thread  Tower tube or othe r 
Sampling quantity/ pc.  Number of 
tests  Sampling quantity / pc.  Number 
of tests  
i.  Linear density  10 10 10 10 
ii.  Single thread 
breaking strength  10 30 10 30 
iii.  Length  10 10 3 3 
iv.  Color fastness to 
light 4 1 2 1 
v.  Color fastness to 
washing  4 1 2 1 
vi.  Color fastness to 
rubbing  4 1 2 1 
vii.  Color fastness to 
drycleaning  4 1 2 1 
viii.  Color fastness to 
hot pressing  4 1 2 1 
ix.  Number of  knots  4 1 2 1 
 
 
Table 6 -Rules on sampling quantity for appearance quality inspection  
 
Number of 
each  
batch (min.  
packaging)  50 and bel ow 51-100 101-500 501-1000  1001 -2000  2001 and  
above  
Sampling 
quantity  
(min. 
packaging)  2 4 5 10 15 20 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                                                                 DKS 543 -2:2022  
© KEBS 2022  — All rights reserved  7  
Annex A  
(informative)  
Reference values of twist degree and filament cross section of polyester filament 
embroidery threads  
 
See Table A.1 for reference values of twist degree and filament cross section of  polyester filament 
embroidery threads.  
 
Table A.1 -- Reference values of twist degree and filament cross section of polyester 
filament embroidery threads  
 
S/N Linear density/dtex (den) ×  
number  of single yarn  Twist degree / (twist/10cm)  Filament cross  
section  
Special thread for 
large  
machine (number 
of first  
twist/number of 
double twist)  Special thread for 
small  
machine (number 
of first  
twist/number of 
double twist)  
i.  56(50) x 2    Round or t refoil  
ii.  78(70) x 2    Round or trefoil  
iii.  78(70) x 3    Round or trefoil  
iv.  89(80) x 2    Round or trefoil  
v.  110(100) x 2    Round or trefoil  
vi.  133(120) x 2   (65-28)/(52 -48) Round or trefoil  
vii.  167(150) x 2  (28-24)/(28 -24) (48-44)/(43 -39) Trefoil  
viii.  222(200) x 2  (30-26)/(30 -26)  Trefoil  
ix.  333(300) x2  (28-24)/(28 -24) (48-44)/(43 -39) Trefoil