Reference number  
DRS 306: 2016  
© RBS yyyy  
© RSB 2016  
 
 RWANDA 
STANDARD  DRS 306 
 
Nth edition  
2016 -mm-dd 
Ladies' fashion handbags  —
Specification  
 
   
 In order to match with technological development and to keep continuous progress in industries, 
Standards are subject to periodic review. Users shall ascertain that they are in possession of the latest 
edition  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
©RSB 2016  
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, no part of this publication may be reproduced or utilized 
in any form or by any means, electronic  or mechanical, including photocopying and microfilm, without 
prior written permission from RBS.  
Requests for permission to reproduce this document should be addressed to  
Rwanda Bureau of Standards.  
P.O Box 7099 Kigali -Rwanda  
Tel. +250 252 586103/ 582945/ 582946  
Fax + 250 252 583305  
E-mail: info@ rsb.gov.rw . DRS 306: 2016  
iii                 ©RS B 2016  All rights reserved  
 
 Contents  Page   
1 Scope  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ......................  1 
2 Normative references  ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................  1 
3 Term s and definitions  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........................  1 
4 Type and category  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ . 2 
4.1 Type  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ........................  2 
4.2 Category  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .................  2 
5 Materials and components  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................  2 
5.1 Leather outer materials  ................................ ................................ ................................ .........................  2 
5.2 Coated fabric outer materials  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...............  4 
5.3 Linings  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ....................  7 
5.4 Threads  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................  9 
5.5 Metal componen ts ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ . 9 
5.6 Plastics components ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........................  10 
6 General constructional requirements  ................................ ................................ ...............................  10 
6.1 General  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .................  10 
6.2 Riveting  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................  10 
6.3 Stitches, seams, and stitc hing  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........  10 
6.4 Handles and shoulder straps  ................................ ................................ ................................ .............  11 
6.5 Attachment of handles  ................................ ................................ ................................ ........................  11 
6.6 Workmanship and finish  ................................ ................................ ................................ .....................  11 
7 Specific constructional requirements  ................................ ................................ ...............................  11 
7.1 Type A: Handbag having a top frame  ................................ ................................ ................................  11 
7.2 Type B: Handbag having a closure flap  ................................ ................................ ............................  12 
7.3 Type C: Handbag closing with a slide fastener  ................................ ................................ ................  12 
8 Packing and marking  ................................ ................................ ................................ ..........................  12 
8.1 Packing  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .................  12 
8.2 Marking  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .................  12 
9 Sampling and compliance with the specification  ................................ ................................ ............  13 
9.1 Sampling  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..............  13 
9.2 Compliance with the specification  ................................ ................................ ................................ .... 14 
10 Inspection and methods of test  ................................ ................................ ................................ .........  14 
10.1  Inspection  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .............  14 
10.2  Leather components  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........................  14 
10.3  Coated fabric components  ................................ ................................ ................................ .................  15 
10.4  Backing fabrics and fabric linings  ................................ ................................ ................................ ..... 16 
10.5  Breaking strength of sewing threads  ................................ ................................ ................................  17 
10.6  Adequacy of plating of plated plastics components  ................................ ................................ ....... 17 
  
 Foreword  
Rwanda Standard s are prepared  by Technical Committees and approved by R wanda Standards Board (RSB) 
Board  of Directors in  accordance with the procedures of RSB, in compliance with Annex 3 of the WTO/TBT 
agreement on the preparation, adoption and application of standards.  
The main task of technical committees is to prepare national standards.  Final Draft Rwanda S tandards 
adopted by Technical committ ees are ratifie d by me mbers of RSB Board of Director s for publication and 
gazettment as Rwanda Standards.  
RS nnn-n was prepared by Technical Committee RSB/TC 29, Textiles and Leather Engineering ,  
In the preparation of this standard, reference was made to the following s tandard  
1)SABS 1298 : Ladies' fashion handbags  
The assistance de rived from the above source is hereby acknowledged with thanks.  
Committee membership  
The following organizations were represented on the Technical Committee on Textiles and Leather 
Engine ering (RSB/TC 29) in the preparation of this standard.  
Star Leather products  
Rwanda Development Board  
GBF Leather and Art promoters  
UTEXRWA  
Embroidery and Training Centre  
Rwanda Bureau of Standards (RS B) – Secretariat  
  DRS 306: 2016  
v                 ©RS B 2016  All rights reserved  
 
  DRS 308: 2016  
1                 ©RS B 2016  All rights reserved  
 
 Ladies’ Fashion handbags  — Specification  
1 Scope  
1.1This specification covers the materials, basic design, and construction of three basic types of  
handbag with a leather or coated fabric outer.  
 
NOTE  
a) The standards referred to in the specification are listed in Appendix A.  
b) Requirements that must be specifi ed by the purchaser are listed in Appendix B.  
c) Information for manufacturers is given in Appendix C.  
d) Except under the standardization mark scheme, provision of equivalent samples required in terms of 8.1.2(b) requiresspecia l 
agreement between the manu facturer and the purchaser.  
2 Normative references  
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated 
references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced 
document (including any amendments) applies.  
SANS .....................  
3 Terms and definitions  
For the purposes of this standard, the following terms and definitions apply ; 
 
Acceptable/Approved . Acceptable to/approved by the purchaser but in relation to the  standardization  
mark acceptable to/approved by the Rwanda Standards Board . 
 
Batch . Handbags of the same materials (excluding colour), dimensions, construction, style, and  
design.  
 
Defective . A handbag that fails in one or more respects to comply with the relevant requirements of  
the specification.  
 
Flaw . A defect which, if it appeared in the fabric lining of a handbag, would be readily seen and  
objected to by an ordinary person who might contemplate the purchase of the handbag.  
 
Lot. Not less than 10 and n ot more than 2 500 handbags of the same type and bearing the same  
batch identification, from one manufacturer, submitted at any one time for inspection and testing.  
  
 4 Type and category  
4.1 Type  
The handbags shall be of one of the following three types (or acceptable modifications of these types),as 
specified by the purchaser:  
 
a) Type A . Handbags having a metal top frame, spring -loaded closure clip, and carrying handles or  
shoulder  strap.  
 
b) Type B . Handbags having a closure flap incorporating a clasp or t urnlock, and a carrying handle  
or a shoulder strap ; 
 
c) Type C . Handbags incorporating a slide fastener as a closure, and having carrying handles or ashoulder 
strap.  
4.2 Category  
The handbags shall have leather or coated fabric outers, as specified by the purc haser.  
5  Materials and components  
5.1 Leather outer materials  
5.1.1  Tannage  
The leather shall have been tanned with either an organic or an inorganic tanning agent, and may  
have been pretanned or retanned with an organic or an inorganic tanning agent.  
 
5.1.2  Type of pelt  
The leather shall have been tanned from the depilated hides or skins of one or more of the following  
types of raw stock, as specified by the purchaser:  
 
a) bovine hides;  
 
b) elephant hides;  
 
c) sheep skins (other than Merino);  
 
d) goat skins;  
 
e) pig skins;  
 
f) ostrich skins;  
 
g) game skins; and  
 
h) reptile skins  
 
5.1.3  Colour, type of finish, and nature of finished surface  
The colour of the finished surface shall be as specified by the purchaser. The type of finish and nature  DRS 308: 2016  
3                 ©RS B 2016  All rights reserved  
 
 of the finished surface shall b e a combination of two or more of the following effects and techniques, and shall 
acceptably match with those of the approved sample:  
 
a) Finishes  
 
1) aniline, or semi -aniline  
 
2) pigmented;  
 
3) antique;  
 
4) two -tone;  
 
5) multi -coloured;  
 
6) glazed;  
 
7) patent or imitation patent.  
 
b)Nature of finished surface  
 
1) full grain;  
 
2) corrected grain;  
 
3) printed or embossed;  
 
4) suède;  
 
5) nubuck.  
 
NOTE  
a) The flesh surface of all leathers shall be of a uniform texture.  
b) The grain surface of sueded leathers  shall be free from flaws and defects that may affect its appearance or its  
serviceability.  
 
5.1.4  Grade  
A leather shall not be pipy, loose -grained, hard or bony, or excessively marked on the grain surface  
(unless emphasis on surface defects is an intended feature of the leather). Any imperfections o r blemishes, if 
an intended feature, shall not affect the serviceability of the leather  
 
5.1.5  Physical and chemical requirements  
The physical and chemical properties shall comply with the requirements given in column 2 of table 1.  
Table 1 — Physical and chemical requirements for leather  
1 2 3 4 
Property  Requirements  
Test Method 
Sub section  Outer Leather  
Lining Leather   
 Thickness  mm,min  0.8 0.5 - 
PH value , min  3.3 3.3 10.2.2 
Grain cracking on double fold  Nil Nil  
Tear Strength, N/mm of Thickness  40 30 10.2.3 
Shrinkage Temperature ,oC, min  
Organic 
Tannage………………………  
Inorganic 
Tannage…………………….   
70 
90  
70 
90 10.2.4 
Scuff resistance by colour 
change,(by colour Change),max  - - 10.2.5 
Resistance of finish to rubbing 
rating,min  
Wet rubbing………………………….  
Dry rubbing…………………………..   
 
4 
4  
 
4 
4 10.2.6 
Flexendurance,crazing after 
1o,ooo Flexes  Fine cracks only  - 10.2.7 
Finish adhesion,N/cm of width,min  5 - 10.2.8 
Colour fastness on exposure to 
light,rating,min,  6 - 10.2.9 
Strength at sti tch line,N/cm of 
width,min  100 50 10.2.10  
Fastness to water spotting 
rating,min after 16h recovery  5 - 10.2.11  
 
5.2 Coated fabric outer materials  
5.2.1  Type  
A coated fabric outer material shall be of one of the following types, as specified by the purchaser, and  
shall comply with the relevant requirements given in tables 2, 3, and 4:  
 
a) Type 1 . A plain jersey knitted fabric with a coating of PVC, and with or without an additional surface  
finish of polyurethane.  
 
b) Type 2 . A plain jersey knitted fabric with a thicker coating of PVC, and with or without an additional  
surface finish of polyurethane.  
 
c) Type 3 . A Queen's cord type warp -knitted nylon fabric with a coating of PVC, and with or withoutan 
additional surface finish of polyurethane  
 
d) Type 4 . A woven cotton fabric with a coating of polyurethane.  
 
e) Type 5 . A heavier woven cotton fabric with a coating of polyurethane.  
 
 DRS 308: 2016  
5                 ©RS B 2016  All rights reserved  
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Table 2 — Physical requirements for coated fabrics  
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 
Property  
 
 Type of coated fabric  Test 
Method 
Subsectio
n 1 2 3 4 5 
Grade of backing …………………  A B C D E - 
Mass/unit area,g/m2,min 
A) Coating………………… 
B) Coated fabric…………….  
510 
620  
630 
720  
800 
755  
120 
320  
110 
400  
10.3.1 
Bleeding in water …………………  Nil Nil Nil Nil Nil 10.3.2 
Blocking,permissible damage .. Nil Nil Nil Nil Nil 10.3.3 
Resistance to dry and wet 
rubbing,permissible colour 
transfer ………………………………   
 
Nil  
 
Nil  
 
Nil  
 
Nil  
 
Nil  
 
10.3.7 
Resistance to flex cracking,cycles before 
signs of 
cracking,min ……………………………………   
 
2x10
5  
 
2x10
5  
 
2x10
5  
 
2x10
5  
 
2x10
5  
 
10.3.9 
Colour fastness to light,rating,min  7 7 7 7 7 10.3.4 
Volatile matter 
content,g/kg,max ………………………………25 25 25 25 25 10.3.5  
 ….. 
Peel strength of coating, N/50mm of 
width,min  
a) Nylon backing ……………  
b) Other backing …………….   
 
15 
25  
 
15 
25  
 
15 
-  
 
- 
25  
 
- 
25  
 
10.3.6 
Tearstrength,N,Min ……………..   
28  
20  
25  
50  
50  
10.3.8 
Strength at stitch line, N/cm of 
width,min ……………………….  
 30 40 55 50 55 10.3.10  
 
 
5.2.2  Colour  
The colour of the coated fabric shall acceptably match with that specified by the purchaser.  
 
5.2.3  Backing fabrics  
5.2.3.1  General  
A backing fabric shall be of the appropriate grade given in table 2, shall comply with the relevant  
requirements given in 5.2.3.2 or 5.2.3.3 (as relevant), and shall be of the colour specified by the  
purchaser.  
 
5.2.3. 2Knitted backing fabrics  
A knitted backing fabric shall be of cotton or of nylon, and shall comply with the relevant requirements given in 
table 3.  
Table 3 — Knitted backing fabric s 
1 2 3 4 5 
Property  Grade of Backing  
 Test 
method 
subsection  
A B C  
Mass/unit area, g/m2,min 
 110 90 45 10.4.1  
Nominal linear density of yarn, 
tex 25 25 - - 
Structure…………………………….  Plain 
jersey  Plain 
jersey  Queen`s 
cord - 
Courses/cm 
(nominal)……………..  - - 14 10.4.4  
Wales/cm - - 10 10.4.4  DRS 308: 2016  
7                 ©RS B 2016  All rights reserved  
 
 (nominal)……………….  
Finish……………………………….  Dyed or 
bleached  Dyed or 
bleached  Dyed  - 
Bleeding in 
Plasticizer……………  Nil Nil Nil 10.4.5  
 
 
5.2.3.3    Woven backing fabrics  
A woven backing fabric shall be of cotton, shall have a plain or a twill weave, shall be raised on one  
side, and shall comply with the relevant requirements given in table 4.  
 
Table 4 — Woven backing fabrics  
1 2 3 4 
Property  Grade of backing  Test Method 
subsection  D E 
Mass/unit area, g/m2,min… 200 290 10.4.1  
Breaking strength, N, Min  
Warp.............................  
Weft…………………….   
500 
500  
780 
780  
10.4.3  
Finish………………………………  Dyed or bleached  Dyed or 
bleached  - 
Bleeding in plasticizer  Nil Nil 10.4.5  
 
5.3 Linings  
 
5.3.1  Leather linings  
A leather lining shall comply with the following requirements:  
 
a) Tannage . As in 5.1.1. 
 
b) Type of pelt . Sheepskin, goatskin, or pigskin, as specified by the purchaser.  
c) Colo ur, type of finish, and nature of finished surface . As in 5.1.3. 
d) Grade . As in 5.1.4.  
 e) Physical and chemical requirements . The physical and chemical properties shall comply with 
therequirements given in column 3 of table 1.  
5.3.2  Fabric linings  
5.3.2.1  Linings for use with leather outers  
Linings used with leather outers shall be of an acceptable colour and shall be of woven or Queen's  
cord warp -knitted nylon or polyester and shall comply with the relevant requirements given in columns  
2 and 3 of table 5. When knitted lining material is used, the technical reverse side of the fabric shall  
be the side in contact with the outer material.  
 
Table  5 — Fabric lining materials  
1 2 3 4 5 6 
Property  Type of Lining  Test 
Method  
subsection  Woven 
nylon or 
polyester Queen`s 
cord warp 
knitted 
nylon or 
nylon  Woven 
polyester/cotton  Woven 
cotton 
or 
viscose  
Mass/unit area, g/m2, 
min……………………………  60 100 80 100 10.4.1  
Filing content %,  
Max………  10 10 10 10 10.4.2  
Breaking strength, N, Min  
a) Warp…………………
… 
b) Weft…………………
…  
450 
450  
- 
-  
300 
300  
300 
300  
10.4.3  
Courses/cm (nominal)……  - 26 - - 10.4.4  
Wales/cm (nominal)………  - 13 - - 10.4.4  
 
 
 
5.3.2.2  Linings for use with coated fabric outers  
Linings used with coated fabric outers shall be of an acceptable colour, shall be of one of the materials  
specified in 5.3.2.1 or of cotton, a polyester -and-cotton mixture, or viscose rayon, and shall comply  
with the relevant requirements given in table 5.  
 
5.3.3  Freedom from defects  
Lining fabrics shall be such that the lining of a handbag is free from flaws.  DRS 308: 2016  
9                 ©RS B 2016  All rights reserved  
 
 5.4 Threads  
The threads shall be polyester, polyamide, cotton -and-polyester, core -spun cotton -and-polyamide, or  
linen threads, an d shall have been well and truly formed. The colour shall be uniform and, unless a  
contrasting seam is an intended feature, shall acceptably match with that of the component(s) with  
which they are used. The colour of thread used for any contrasting seam sh all be as specified by the 
purchaser  
 
The breaking strength of thread used in functional seams, determined in accordance with 10.5, shall  
be at least 25 N.  
5.5 Metal components  
5.5.1  General  
All metal components, whether functional or decorative, shall be of an intr insically corrosion -resistant  
metal or shall have been so coated as to render them resistant to corrosion. They shall be of adequate  
size and strength for their function.  
5.5.2  Buckles  
Buckles may have one or more prongs, or be of the plain or roller type, or be  slide buckles. The width  
of a buckle shall be such as to ensure an acceptable fit with the strap or handle to which it is attached.  
5.5.3  Closure clips  
Spring -loaded closure clips or clasps shall be of acceptable design and fitted with metal backing  
plates.  
 
5.5.4  Domed studs  
Domed studs shall be suitable for attachment by rivets or screws.  
 
5.5.5  Attachment rings  
Attachment rings shall be D -rings, O -rings, rectangles, squares, or triangles.  
 
5.5.6  Eyelets  
Eyelets shall be of the two -piece type.  
 
5.5.7  Frames  
Frames shall be fitted with robust swivel points at each end, and the rigidity, width, and depth of  
channelling of a frame shall be such as to ensure a tenacious grip when the frame is pressed on to  
the body of a handbag.  
 
5.5.8  Press -studs  
Press -studs shall be of the male and female type and shall have a tenacious grip.  
  
 5.5.9  Rivets  
Rivets shall be one of the following types:  
 
a) tubular rivets with caps;  
b) bifurcated rivets with caps;  
c) solid copper rivets with flat washers;  
 
d) ribbed nails with locking washers.  
 
5.5.10  Slide fasteners  
Interlocking slide fasteners shall be of an intrinsically corrosion -resistant metal or of a synthetic  
material, and shall have cotton tapes. The colour of the cotton tapes shall acceptably match with the  
colour of the surrounding material.  
 
5.5.11  Turn locks  
Turn locks shall have backing plates of the screw or the cleated lug design, and shall have a robust  
and secure swivel closure.  
5.6 Plastics components  
All plastics components, whether functional or decorative, shall have been properly plated and, when  
tested in ac cordance with 10.6, shall show no sign of cracks or pit marks. They shall be of acceptable  
design and of adequate size and strength for their intended function. Closure clips, domed studs,  
attachment rings, and turn locks shall comply with the requirements  given in 5.5.3, 5.5.4, 5.5.5, and  
.5.11, respectively.  
6 General constructional requirements  
6.1 General  
All handbags shall be acceptably lined. The shape, dimensions, fittings, style, and stitching shall be  
as specified by the purchaser and shall conform to th ose of a corresponding sample held andapproved by the 
Rwanda Standards Board.  
6.2 Riveting  
All rivets shall be securely and neatly attached and of sufficient length to allow the caps to be firmly  
clinched.  
6.3 Stitches, seams, and stitching  
6.3.1  General  
All sewing shal l be in accordance with ISO 4915:1991 . 
 
6.3.2  Stitches  
All functional stitches shall be of stitch types 101, 301, 304, or 308, and in the case of coated fabrics  DRS 308: 2016  
11                 ©RS B 2016  All rights reserved  
 
 the number of stitches shall be 6 -8 per 25 mm and in the case of leather, 6 -10 per 25 mm.  
 
6.3.3  Seams  
Seams shall be free from twists, pleats, and puckers. The seam allowances shall be subject to the  
tolerances normal to good manufacturing practice.  
 
6.3.4  Stitching  
Stitching may be functional or decorative or both. In no instance shall the number of stitches pe r unit  
length be of such frequency as to impair or appreciably reduce the strength of the material being  
stitched. The ends of all stitched seams shall be back -stitched and free from loose threads.  
6.4 Handles and shoulder straps  
The construction of a carrying  handle or shoulder strap made from a plastics material shall be such  
that the handle or shoulder strap is interlined with a leather strip of thickness at least 0,5 mm or with  
any other acceptable material of similar strength. The interlining shall be stit ched in with the turned -in 
edges of the outer covering material along the entire length of the handle or strap (including the points  
of attachment to the body of a handbag).  
6.5 Attachment of handles  
Handles shall be securely attached either to the front and b ack panels or to reinforced gusset panels.  
The attachment of a handle to the top of a closure flap shall not be permissible unless the entire length  
of the top (fold -over) portion is adequately reinforced with an acceptable metal strip.  
6.6 Workmanship and fin ish 
Workmanship and finish shall be in accordance with sound trade practice. A handbag shall be clean,  
well made, and free from any defect that affects the appearance or may affect the serviceability of the  
handbag. Sewing shall be uniform and double rows of stitching shall be uniform unless intended to  
be otherwise. Linings shall have been so treated as to prevent fraying.  
7 Specific constructional requirements  
7.1 Type A: Handbag having a top frame  
7.1.1  Basic design  
The basic design shall be as shown in figure 1 and  shall include  
a) handbags with the gussets and outer body attached to the metal frame; and  
b) handbags with the main gussets attached to the frame and each top edge of the frame attached  
to a separation (Peggy bag).  
7.1.2  Compartments and pockets  
a) The frame a nd the main gussets shall be such that the hand has easy access when the framed  
compartment of a bag is opened; this shall also apply to any compartment adjacent to the framed  
compartment.  
  
 b) An internal pocket or pouch, with or without a slide fastener, shall have at least one expanding  
gusset to allow easy access, and each pocket shall be of an acceptable size in relation to its  
intended function.  
7.2 Type B: Handbag having a closure flap  
7.2.1  Basic design  
The basic design shall be as shown in figure 2.  
 
7.2.2  Compartm ents and pockets  
a) The main gussets shall, when expanded, allow the hand easy access to all compartments.  
 
b) Pockets forming partitions between compartments shall be fitted with slide fasteners and pockets  
shall be securely attached at each end to the ma in gussets of the handbag.  
 
c) Smaller internal pockets shall comply with 7.1.2(b).  
7.3 Type C: Handbag closing with a slide fastener  
7.3.1  Basic design  
The basic design shall be as shown in figure 3.  
 
7.3.2  Compartments and pockets  
As in 7.2.2. 
 
8 Packing and marking  
8.1 Packing  
The handbags shall be packed in individual plastics bags and then so packed, in suitable bulk  
containers, as to protect them from damage during transportation and storage.  
8.2 Marking  
8.2.1  Handbags  
A fabric label that is securely sewn to the lining on the inside of each handbag shall be neatly, legibly,  
and indelibly marked with the following information:  
 
a) the manufacturer's name or trade mark ( or both) ;  
 
b) the year of manufacture;  
 
c) the batch identification;  
 
d) the outer material, i.e. leather, PVC-coated fabric, or polyurethane -coated fabric.  
 DRS 308: 2016  
13                 ©RS B 2016  All rights reserved  
 
 8.2.2  Bulk containers  
The following information shall appear in neat, legible, and indelible marking on the outside of each  
bulk container:  
 
a) the manufacturer's name or trade mark (or both);  
 
b) the type and c ategory;  
 
c) the style or model;  
 
d) the colour;  
 
e) the quantity;  
 
f) the nature of the outer material and lining.  
 
8.2.3  Additional marking  
When so required by the purchaser, handbags or bulk containers or both shall bear information  
additional to that specifi ed in 8.2.1 and 8.2.2. 
9 Sampling and compliance with the specification  
NOTE: This section applies to the sampling for inspection and testing before acceptance or rejection of single lots  
(consignments) in cases where no information about the implementation of quality control or testing during manufacture  
is available to help in assessing the quality of the lot. It is also used as the procedure for adjudicating in cases of dispu te. 
9.1 Sampling  
The following sampling procedure shall be applied in determining whether a lot complies with the  
relevant requirements of the specification. The samples so taken shall be deemed to represent the  
lot. 
 
9.1.1  Sample for inspection  
After checking the lot for compliance with the requirements of section  8, draw from it at random t he 
number of handbags shown in column 2 of table 6 relative to the appropriate lot size shown in  
column 1.  
 
9.1.2  Sample for testing  
a) Handbags . After inspection (see 10.1) of the sample taken in accordance with 9.1.1 take from it at  
random at least one handbag . 
 
b) Materials . Use a sample (of size large enough for the relevant tests) of each thread, and, in the  
case of handbags with a coated fabric outer, of the backing fabric used in the manufacture of  
the lot.  
 
 
Table 6 — Sample sizes  
  
  
9.2 Compliance with the specification  
The lot shall be deemed to comply with the requirements of the specification if, after inspection and  
testing of the samples drawn in accordance with 9.1, the number of defectives found does not exceed  
the relevant acceptance number given in c olumn 3 of table 6.  
10 Inspection and methods of test  
10.1 Inspection  
Inspect each handbag in the sample drawn in accordance with 9.1.1 for compliance with all the  
relevant requirements of sections 4 -6 (inclusive) compliance with which is not assessed by the tests  
given in 10.2-10.6 (inclusive).  
10.2 Leather components  
10.2.1  Preparation of test specimens  
Use SABS SM 616.  
 
10.2.2  pH Value  
Use RS ISO 4045:2008  
 
10.2.3  Tearing strength  
Use SABS SM 637.  
 
10.2.4  Shrinkage temperature  
Use ISO 3380:2002  
10.2.5  Scuff resistance  
Use SABS SMs 884 and 885.  
 
10.2.6  Resistance of finish to rubbing  
Use the relevant method given in CKS 190.  
DRS 308: 2016  
15                 ©RS B 2016  All rights reserved  
 
 10.2.7  Flex endurance  
Use ISO 22288:2006  
 
10.2.8  Adhesion of finish  
Use ISO 11644:2009  
 
10.2.9  Colour fastness to light  
| Use SABS SM 405.  
 
10.2.10  Strength at right angles to stitch perforations  
Use the method  given in section 3.1 of BS 5131 -3. 
10.2.11  Fastness to water spotting  
Use ISO 15700:1998  
10.3 Coated fabric components  
10.3.1  Mass per unit area  
Use SABS SM 79 to determine the mass -per-square metre of the coated fabric. Then use  
SABS Method 114 (but using a suitable solvent ) to remove the coating on each specimen, and 
determine  the mass per square metre of the coating by difference.  
 
10.3.2  Bleeding in water  
a) Apparatus . An oven maintained at 70 ± 1 °C.  
 
b) Procedure . From the sample under test cut a specimen of size approximately  100 mm × 100 mm,  
and cut it into test pieces of size about 10 mm × 10 mm.  
 
Place the test pieces in a beaker containing 100 m L of distilled water and place the beaker in the oven  
for 24 ± 1 h.  
 
After removing the test pieces examine the water for discoloration (bleeding) against a white  
background, and assess the extent of bleeding on the following scale:  
 
0 = No bleeding (water free from colour)  
1 = Slight bleeding  
2 = Moderate bleeding  
3 = Severe bleeding  
 
10.3.3  Blocking  
Use SABS SM 412   
 10.3.4  Colour fastness  to light  
Use SABS SM 405.  
 
10.3.5  Volatile matter content  
a) Apparatus . An air circulating oven maintained at 105 ± 1 °C.  
 
b) Procedure  
 
1) From the sample under test cut three test specimens, each of size about 50 mm × 100 mm,  
condition them at 65 ± 5 % relativ e humidity and 20 ± 1 °C for 2 h, and determine the mass of  
each specimen to the nearest milligram.  
 
2) Place the test specimens in the oven for 5 h, remove and condition and determine the mass as  
in (1) above.  
 
c) Calculation . Calculate the loss of volatile matter as follows:  
 
 
Volatile matter loss, g/kg= m2  
m2 
m1 
where 
m1 = mass of original sample, g  
m2 = loss of mass of sample, g  
 
10.3.6  Peel strength of coating  
Use the relevant method given in CKS 143  
10.3.7  Resistance to rubbing  
As in 9.2.6. 
 
10.3.8  Tearing strength  
Use SABS SM 637.  
10.3.9  Resistance to flex cracking  
Use SABS SM 411.  
 
10.3.10  Strength at right angles to stitch perforations  
Use the method given in section 3.1 of BS 5131 -3. 
10.4 Backing fabrics and fabric linings  
10.4.1  Mass per unit area  
Use SABS SM 79 for woven fabrics and SABS  385 for knitted fabrics.  DRS 308: 2016  
17                 ©RS B 2016  All rights reserved  
 
 10.4.2  Filling content (fabric linings)  
Use SABS SM 114.  
 
10.4.3  Breaking strength (woven fabrics)  
Use SABS SM 93.  
 
10.4.4  Wales and courses per unit length (Queen's cord knitted fabrics)  
Use SABS SM 275.  
 
10.4.5  Bleeding in plasticizer (backing fabrics)  
a) Apparatus . An oven maintained at 100 ± 2 °C  
 
b) Procedure . From the sample under test cut a specimen of size approximately 100 mm × 100 mm  
and cut it into test pieces of size about 10 m × 10 mm.  
 
Place the test pieces of fabric in a beaker containing 100 m L of Di-iso-octyl phthalate. Cover the  
beaker with a watch glass and place in the oven for 1 h. Remove the beaker from the oven, remove  
the test pieces from the plasticizer, and examine the plasticizer for bleeding (discoloration) against a  
white backgroun d. Assess the extent of bleeding on the following scale:  
 
0 = No bleeding (i.e. no colour change)  
1 = Slight bleeding  
2 = Moderate bleeding  
3 = Severe bleeding  
10.5 Breaking strength of sewing threads  
| Use ISO 2062.  
10.6 Adequacy of plating of plated plastics components  
10.6.1  Apparatus  
A microscope or other device capable of 8x magnification.  
 
10.6.2  Procedure  
Heat the plastics component under test in boiling water for 5 min. Remove and allow it to dry and cool for 1 h. 
Then, using the magnifying apparatus, examine it for signs of cracks or pit marks or both.  
 
  
  
DRS 308: 2016  
19                 ©RS B 2016  All rights reserved  
 
  
 
 
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
DRS 308: 2016  
21                 ©RS B 2016  All rights reserved  
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
   
 
 
DRS 308: 2016  
23                 ©RS B 2016  All rights reserved  
 
 AppendixA  
(Normative Reference)  
Applicable standards  
Reference is made to the latest issues of the following standards:  
BS 1006, Methods of test for colour fastness of  textiles and leather . 
BS 5131 -3-3.1, Methods of test for footwear and footwear materials – Part 3: Uppers, textiles and  
threads – Section 3.1: Strength of upper materials and lining materials at right angles to stitch  
perforations . 
CKS 143, Coated fabrics . 
CKS 190, Printed, side upper leather . 
| ISO 2062, Textiles – Yarns from packages – Determination of single -end breaking force and  
| elongation at break .  
SABS 04, Terms and definitions for textiles and textile merchandise . 
SABS 0101, Standard nomenclatur e for stitches, seams, and stitchings . 
 
 
Appendix B  
Notes to purchasers  
The following requirements must be specified in tender invitations and in each order or contract:  
a) The type of handbag (see 3.1)  
b) The category of handbag (see 3.2)  
c) In the case of leather outers, the type of pelt and colour of the finished surface (see 4.1.2 and 4.1.3)  
d) In the case of coated fabric outers, the type and the colour(s) of the coating and the backing fabric  
(see 4.2)  
e) In the case of leather linings, the type of p elt and the colour (see 4.3.1)  
f) The colour of thread for any contrasting seam (see 4.4)  
g) The shape, dimensions, fittings, style, and stitching (see 5.1)  
h) Any additional marking required (see 7.2.3)  
 
 
 
Appendix C  
Note to manufacturers  
A nylon yarn wit h a linear density of 44 f 13 dtex has been found satisfactory for the manufacture of  
grade C backing fabrics (see table 3) and Queen's cord type lining fabrics (see table 5).  
 DRS 308: 2016  
ICS 59.140.35   
 
 
©RSB 2016  All right s reserved