PRD/SZNS  072:2022 
 
ICS                               Edition 1              
 
 
 
 
 
 
ESWATINI  NATIONAL STANDARD  
 
 
 
  
 
 Fashion  Leather  Bags – Specification  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Published by: Eswatini Standards Authority  
Marbel Construction, Plot 247, 11th Street  King Mswati III Avenue West  
P. O. Box 1399, Matsapha, Kingdom of Eswatini  
Telephone: +268 2518 4633, Facsimile: +268 2518 4526  
Website: www.swasa.co.sz  
E-mail: info@swasa.co.s z 
©Eswatini Standards Authority 20 22 
 PRD/SZNS 072:2022  
Edition 1  
 
 
ii            ©SWASA 2022 – All rights reserved  
          
  
 
COPYRIGHT NOTICE  
 
This Eswatini  Standards Authority  (SWASA) document is a n Eswatini  National  Public Review  Draft 
Standard and is copyright -protected by SWASA. Neither this SWASA document  nor any extract from 
it may b e reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, 
electronic, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission being secured.  
 
Requests for permission to reproduce should be addressed to : 
 
The Info rmation Officer  
Eswatini  Standards Authority  
P.O. Box 1399, Matsapha  
Tel. + 268 2518 4633  
Fax: + 268 2518 4526  
E-mail: info@swasa.co.sz   
Website: www.swasa.co.sz  
 
Reproduction may be subject to royalty payments or a licensing agreement.  
Violators may be prosecuted.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 PRD/SZNS 072:2022  
Edition 1  
 
©SWASA 2022 – All rights reserved                iii
                
 
Table of changes  
 
Clause Changed  Date  Change  
 
   
   
 
NATIONAL FOREWORD  
This Eswatini  National  Public Review Draft Standard was prepare d by Technical Committee 
SWASA/TC 52 Leather and its products  in accordance with procedures of the Eswatini  Standards 
Authority, in compliance with Annex 3 of the WTO/TBT Agreement.  
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 PRD/SZNS 072:2022  
Edition 1  
 
 
iv            ©SWASA 2022 – All rights reserved  
          
 Table of Contents  
1. Scope  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................  1 
2 Normative references  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........................  1 
3 Terms and definitions  ................................ ................................ ................................ ..........................  2 
4 Types and categories  ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................  2 
4.1 Type  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..............  2 
4.2 Category  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ....... 3 
5 Materials and components  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................  3 
5.1 Leather outer materials  ................................ ................................ ................................ .................  3 
5.2 Coated fabric outer materials  ................................ ................................ ................................ ........  4 
5.3 Linings  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..........  7 
5.4 Threads  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .........  8 
5.5 Metal components  ................................ ................................ ................................ .........................  8 
5.6 Plastic components  ................................ ................................ ................................ .......................  9 
6 General constructional requirements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ... 9 
6.1 General  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .........  9 
6.2 Riveting  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ........  9 
6.3 Stitches, seams and stitching  ................................ ................................ ................................ ........  9 
6.4 Handle s and shoulder straps  ................................ ................................ ................................ .........  9 
6.5 Attachment of handles  ................................ ................................ ................................ ..................  9 
6.6 Workmanship and finish  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...............  9 
7 Constructional requirements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ..............  10 
7.1 General  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ....... 10 
7.1 Type A: bag having a top frame  ................................ ................................ ................................ . 10 
7.2 Type B: bag having a closure flap  ................................ ................................ ..............................  10 
7.3 Type C:bag closing with a slide fastener  ................................ ................................ ....................  10 
8 Packaging, labelling and marking  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...... 10 
8.1 Packaging ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .... 10 
8.2 Labelling and marking  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................  10 
9 Sampling and compliance with the specification  ................................ ................................ ...............  11 
9.1 Sampling  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..... 11 
9.2 Compliance with the specification ................................ ................................ ..............................  12 
10 Methods of test  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ . 12 
10.1 Inspection ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .. 12 
10.2 The thickness  ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................  12 
10.3 Leather components  ................................ ................................ ................................ ..................  12 
10.4 Coated fabric components  ................................ ................................ ................................ ........  12 
10.5 Backing fabrics and fabric linings  ................................ ................................ ............................  13 
10.6 Breaking strength of sewing threads ................................ ................................ .........................  14 PRD/SZNS 072:2022  
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©SWASA 2022 – All rights reserved                v
               10.7 Adequacy of plating of plated plastics c omponents  ................................ ................................ . 14 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 PRD/SZNS 072:2022  
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©SWASA 20 22 – All rights reserved                 1 
 Fashion leather bags  — Specification  
1. Scope  
This national  draft  Standard specifies the requirements for materials, and construction of open , 
partially opened and closed or  basic types  of bag s with a leather or coated outer fabric.  
2 Normative references  
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated 
references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest editi on of the referenced 
document (including any amendments) applies.  
 
ASTM D8007, Standard Test Method for Wale and Course Count of Weft Knitted Fabrics  
EN 12590, Textiles — Industrial sewing threads made wholly or partly from synthetic fibres  
ISO 105 -B02,  Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part B02: Colour fastness to artificial light: 
Xenon arc fading lamp test  
ISO 1421, Rubber - or plastics -coated fabrics — Determination of tensile strength and elongation at 
break  
ISO 2062, Textiles — Yarns from pac kages — Determination of single -end breaking force and 
elongation at break using constant rate of extension (CRE) tester  
ISO 2286 -1, Rubber - or plastics -coated fabrics — Determination of roll characteristics — Part 1: 
Methods for determination of length, width and net mass  
ISO 2286 -2, Rubber - or plastics -coated fabrics — Determination of roll characteristics — Part 2: 
Methods for determination of total mass per unit area, mass per unit area of coating and mass per 
unit area of substrate  
ISO 2286 -3, Rubbe r- or plastics -coated fabrics — Determination of roll characteristics — Part 3: 
Method for determination of thickness  
ISO 2419, Leather — Physical and mechanical tests — Sample preparation and conditioning  
ISO 2588, Leather — Sampling — Number of items f or a gross sample  
ISO 2589, Leather — Physical and mechanical tests — Determination of thickness  
ISO 3376, Leather — Physical and mechanical tests — Determination of tensile strength and 
percentage extension  
ISO 3377 -1, Leather — Physical and mechanical  tests — Determination of tear load — Part 1: Single 
edge tear  
ISO 3377 -2, Leather — Physical and mechanical tests — Determination of tear load — Part 2: 
Double edge tear  
ISO 3379, Leather — Determination of distension and strength of surface (Ball burst  method)  
ISO 3380, Leather — Physical and mechanical tests — Determination of shrinkage temperature up to 
100 °C  
ISO 3801, Textiles — Woven fabrics — Determination of mass per unit length and mass per unit area  
ISO 4045, Leather — Chemical tests — Determ ination of pH  
ISO 5402 -1, Leather — Determination of flex resistance — Part 1: Flexometer method  
ISO 5402 -2, Leather — Determination of flex resistance — Part 2: Vamp flex method  
ISO 5978, Rubber - or plastics -coated fabrics — Determination of blocking r esistance  
ISO 9073 -1, Textiles — Test methods for nonwovens — Part 1: Determination of mass per unit area  
ISO 11644, Leather — Test for adhesion of finish  
ISO 15700, Leather — Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to water spotting  
ISO 17076 -1, Leather — Determination of abrasion resistance — Part 1: Taber method  
ISO 17076 -2, Leather — Determination of abrasion resistance — Part 2: Martindale ball plate 
method  
ISO 23910, Leather — Physical and mechanical tests — Measurement of stitch tear resist ance  
ISO 32100, Rubber - or plastics -coated fabrics — Physical and mechanical tests — Determination of 
flex resistance by the flexometer method  
IUP 22, Assessment of scuff damage by use of the viewing box  PRD/SZNS  072:2022  
Edition 1  
 
 
2            ©SWASA 20 22 – All rights reserved  
          
  IUP 23, Measurement of scuff damage  
3 Terms and d efinitions  
For the purpose of this standard the following definitions apply : 
3.1  
batch  
handbags of the same materials (excluding colour), dimensions, construction, style, and design  
 
3.2  
defective  
a handbag that fails in one or more respects to comply  with the relevant requirements of the 
specification  
 
3.3  
flaw  
a defect or other imperfections  
 
3.4  
lot  
not less than 10 and not more than 2 500 handbags of the same type and bearing the same batch 
identification, from one manufacturer, submitted at any one time for inspection and testing  
 
3.5 
Leather   
material hide  or skin  with its original fibrous structure more or less intact, tanned to be 
imputrescible, where the hair or wool may or may not have been removed, whether or not 
the hide  or skin  has been split into layers or segmented either before or after  tanning   and where any 
surface coating or surface layer, however applied, is not thicker than 0,15  mm 
 
Note 1 to entry:  If the tanned hide or skin is disintegrated mechanically and/or chemically  into fibrous 
particles, small pieces or powders, and is then, with or without the combination of a binding agent, 
made into sheets or other forms, such sheets or forms are not leather.  
 
Note 2 to entry:  If the grain layer has been completely removed, the term leather is not to be used 
without further qualification, e.g.  split leather  , suede leather.  
 
Note 3 to entry:  The mate rial shall be of animal origin.   
4 Types and categories  
4.1 Type  
The handbags shall be one of the following three types (or accept able modification of these types), as 
specified by the purchaser:  
 
4.1.1 Type A - Closed   Bag having  closures not limited to the following:  
-a metal top frame  
spring -loaded closure clip,  
- a closure flap incorporating a clasp or turn lock  
- a slide faste ner as a closure   
 -andcarrying handles or a shoulder strap  
 
4.1.2 Type B: Partially closed : bags incorporating  fastening accessories for partial closure with 
carrying handle or shoulder strap  PRD/SZNS 072:2022  
Edition 1  
 
©SWASA 20 22 – All rights reserved                                                  3 
  
4.1.3 Type C; Open : bags having a no closure and have a carryi ng handle or shoulder strap.  
4.2 Category  
The bags shall have leather, as specified by the purchaser.  
5 Materials and components  
5.1 Leather outer materials  
 
5.1.1 Tannage  
The leather shall  be tanned with either an organic or an inorganic tanning ag ent, and may have been 
pre-tanned or re -tanned with an organic or inorganic tanning agent.  
 
5.1.2 Type of pelt  
The leather shall  be from the depilated hides and skins of one or more of the following types of raw 
stock, as specified by the purchaser.  
a) bovine hides;  
b) elephant hides;  
c) sheep skins (other than merino);  
d) goat skins;  
e) pig skins;  
f) ostrich skins;  
g) game skins; and  
h) reptile skins .  
 
5.1.3 Colour, type of finish and nature of finished surface  
The colour of the finished surfa ce shall be as specified by the purchaser. The type of finish and nature 
of the finished surface shall be a combination of two or more of the following effects and techniques:  
 
5.1.3.1 Finishes  
a) aniline, or semi -aniline;  
b) pigmented;  
c) antique;  
d) two-tone;  
e) multi -coloured;  
f) glazed;  
g) patent or imitation patent  
 
5.1.3.2 Nature of finished surface  
a) full grain;  
b) corrected grain;  
c) printed or embossed;  
d) suede;  
e) nubuck.  
 
NOTE 1 The flesh surface of all leathers shall be of a unif orm texture.  
 
NOTE 2 The grain surface of suede leathers shall be free from flaws and defects that may affect its appearance 
or its serviceability  
 
5.1.4 Grade  
Leather shall not be pip py, loose -grained, hard or bony, or excessively marked on the grain s urface 
(unless emphasis on surface defects is an intended feature of the leather). Any imperfections or 
blemishes, if it is an intended feature, shall not affect the serviceability of the leather.  PRD/SZNS  072:2022  
Edition 1  
 
 
4            ©SWASA 20 22 – All rights reserved  
          
   
5.1.5 Physical and chemical requirements  
The physical an d chemical properties shall comply with the requirements given in column 2 of 
Table1.  
 
Table 1 — physical and chemical requirements for leather  
 
Parameters  
 Requirements  Method of Test  
 Outer leather  Lining leather  
Thickness, mm, min.  
 0.8  
 0.5  
 ISO 2589  
 
pH value, Min.  
 3.3  
 3.3  
 10.2.2  
 
Grain cracking on 
double fold  
 Nil  Nil  - 
Tear strength, N/mm of 
thickness  
 40  
 30  
 10.2.3  
 
Shrinkage temperature, 
°C, min.  
Organic tannage  
Inorganic tannage   
 
70  
90   
 
70  
90  10.2.4  
 
Scuff r esistance (by 
colour change), max.  
 5  
 - 10.2.5  
 
Resistance of finish to 
rubbing, rating, min.  
Wet rubbing  
Dry rubbing   
 
4  
4   
 
4  
4  10.2.6  
 
Flex endurance, 
crazing after 10 000 
flexes  
 there shall be no cracks  
 - 10.2.7  
 
Finish adhesion, N/ cm 
of width, min.  
 5  
 - 10.2.8  
 
Colour fastness on 
exposure to light, 
rating, min.  
 6  
 - 10.2.9  
 
Strength at stitch line, 
N/mm of width, min.  
 
 10  
 5  
 10.2.10  
 
Fastness to water 
spotting, rating, Min. 
after 16 h recovery  
 5  
 - 10.2.11  
 
5.2 Coated fabric outer materials  
 
5.2.1 Type  PRD/SZNS 072:2022  
Edition 1  
 
©SWASA 20 22 – All rights reserved                                                  5 
 A coated fabric outer material shall be one of the following types, as specified by the purchaser, and 
shall comply with the relevant requirements given in Table 2, Table 3 and Table 4:  
 
a) Type 1 : a plain jers ey knitted fabric with a coating of PVC, and with or without an additional 
surface finish of polyurethane.  
b) Type 2: a plain jersey knitted fabric with a thicker coating of PVC, and with or without an 
additional surface finish of polyurethane.  
c) Type 3 : a queen’s cord type warp -knitted nylon fabric with a coating of PVC, and with or without 
an additional surface finish of polyurethane.  
d) Type 4 : a woven cotton fabric with a coating of polyurethane.  
e) Type 5: a heavier woven cotton fabric with a coat ing of polyurethane.  
  
Table 2 — Physical requirements for coated fabrics  
 
Property  
 Type of coated fabric  
 Sub clause  
 
 
 Grade of backing  A B C D E 
Mass/unit area, g/m2, min.  
 
Coating  
Coated fabric   
 
510  
620   
 
630  
720    
 
800  
755   
 
120  
320   
 
110  
400   
 
 
10.3.1  
 
Bleeding in water  
 Nil  Nil  Nil  Nil  Nil  
 10.3.2  
 
Blocking, permissible damage  
 Nil  Nil  Nil  Nil  Nil  10.3.3  
 
Resistance to wet and to dry 
rubbing , permissible colour 
transfer  
 Nil  Nil  Nil  Nil  Nil  10.3.7  
 
Resistan ce to flex cracking,  
cycles before signs of cracking, 
min.  2 x 105  
 2 x 
105  2 x 105  2 x 105  2 x 105  10.3.9  
 
Colour fastness to light , rating 
min.  
 7  7  7  7  7  10.3.4  
 
Volatile matter content , g/kg, 
max.  
 25  25  25  - - 10.3.5  
 
Peel stren gth of coating , N/50 
mm of width, min.  
 
Nylon backing  
 
Other backing   
 
 
15  
25   
 
 
15  
25   
 
 
15  
-  
 
- 
25  
  
 
- 
25  
 
 
 10.3.6  
 
Tearing strength , N, min.  
 28  
 20  
 25  
 50  
 50  
 10.3.8  
 
Strength at stitch line, N/cm of 
width, min  30  
 40  
 55  
 50  
 55  
 10.3.10  
 
 
 
5.2.2 Colour  
The colour of the coated fabric shall acceptably match with that specified by the purchaser.  
 
5.2.3 Backing fabrics  PRD/SZNS  072:2022  
Edition 1  
 
 
6            ©SWASA 20 22 – All rights reserved  
          
  A backing fabric shall be of the appropriate grade given in Table 2, shall comply with the relevant 
requirements given in 5.2.3.2 or 5.2.3.3 (as relevant), and shall be of the colour specified by the 
purchaser  
 
5.2.3.1 General  
A backing fabric shall be of the appropriate grade given in Table 2, shall comply with the relevant 
requirements given in 5.2.3.2  or 5.2.3.3 (as relevant), and shall be of the colour specified by the 
purchaser.  
 
5.2.3.2 Knitted backing fabrics  
A knitted backing fabric shall be of cotton or nylon, and comply with the relevant requirements given 
in Table 3.  
 
Table 3 — Knitted backin g fabrics  
 
Parameter  
 Grade of backing  
 Sub clause  
 
A B C 
Mass/unit area , g/m2, min.  
 110  
 90  
 45  
 10.4.1  
 
Nominal linear density of 
yarn , tex.  
 25  
 25  
 - - 
Structure  
 Plain 
jersey  
 Plain 
jersey  
 Queen’s 
cord  
  
Courses/cm (nominal)  
 - - 14  
 10.4.4  
 
Wales/cm (nominal)  
 - - 10  
 10.4.4  
 
Finish  
 Dyed or 
bleached  
 Dyed or 
bleached  
 Dyed  
 - 
Bleeding in plasticizer  
 Nil  Nil  Nil  10.4.5  
 
 
5.2.3.3 Woven backing fabrics  
A woven backing fabric shall be of cotton, have a plain o r twill weave, be raised on one side, and 
comply with the relevant requirements given in Table 4.  
 
Table 4 — Woven backing fabrics  
 
Property  
 Grade of backing  
 Sub clause  
 
D E 
Mass/unit area, g/m2, min.  
 200  
 290  
 10.4.1  
 
Breaking strength, N, min.  
 
Warp  
Weft   
 
500  
500   
 
780  
780  10.4.3  
 
Finish  
 Dyed or 
bleached  
 Dyed or 
bleached  
 - PRD/SZNS 072:2022  
Edition 1  
 
©SWASA 20 22 – All rights reserved                                                  7 
 Bleeding in plasticizer  
 Nil  Nil  10.4.5  
 
 
5.3 Linings  
5.3.1 Leather linings  
A leather lining shall comply with the following:  
a) Tannage: as in 5. 1.1  
b) Type of pelt: as in 5.1.2 or as specified by the purchaser.  
c) Colour, type of finish, and nature of finished surface: as in 5.1.3.  
d) Grade: as in 5.1.4.  
e) Physical and chemical requirements: as in Table 1.  
 
5.3.2 Fabric linings  
 
5.3.2.1 Lini ngs for use with leather outers  
Linings used with leather outers shall be of an acceptable colour, be of woven or Queen’s cord warp -
knitted nylon or polyester and comply with the relevant requirements given in column 2 of Table 3 
and Table 5. When knitted  lining material is used, the technical reverse side of the fabric shall be the 
side in contact with the outer material.  
 
Table 5 — Fabric linin g materials  
Property  
 Type of lining  
 Sub clause  
 
Woven 
nylon or 
polyester  
 Queen’s 
cord 
warp -
knitted 
nylon or 
polyester  
 Woven 
polyester 
or cotton  
 Woven cotton 
or viscose  
 
Mass/unit area , g/m2, 
min.(free from piling)  
 60  
 100  
 80  
 100  
 10.4.1  
 
Filing content , %, max.  
 10  10  10  10  10.4.2  
 
Breaking strength , N, min.  
Warp  
Weft   
450  
450   
- 
-  
300  
300   
300  
300  10.4.3  
 
Courses/cm (nominal)  
 - - 26  
 - 10.4.4  
 
Wales/cm (nominal)  
 - 13  
 - - 10.4.4  
 
 
 
5.3.2.2 Linings for use with coated fabric outers  
Linings used with coated fabric outers shall be of an acceptable colour, be of th e one of the materials 
specified in 5.3.2.1 or of cotton, a polyester -and-cotton mixture, or viscose rayon, and shall comply 
with the relevant requirements given in Table 5.  
 
5.3.3 Freedom from defects  
Lining fabrics shall be such that the lining of a ba g is free from flaws.  
 PRD/SZNS  072:2022  
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  5.4 Threads  
The threads shall be polyester, polyamide, cotton -polyester, core -spun cotton -and-polyamide, or linen 
threads, and shall have been well and truly formed. The colour shall be uniform and, unless a 
contrasting seam is an intended feature, shall acceptably match with that of the component(s) with 
which they are used. The colour of thread used for any contrasting seam shall be as specified by the 
purchaser.  
 
The breaking strength of thread used in functional seams, determin ed in accordance with 10.5 shall be 
at least 25 N.  
5.5 Metal components  
5.5.1 General  
All metal components, whether functional or decorative, shall be mainly of corrosion -resistant metal 
or shall have been so coated as to render them resistant to corros ion. They shall be of adequate size 
and strength for their function.  
 
5.5.2 Buckles  
Buckles may have one or more prongs, or be of plain or roller type, or be slide buckles. The width of 
a buckle shall be such that as to ensure an acceptable fit with the s trap or handle to which it is 
attached.  
 
5.5.3 Closure clips  
Spring -loaded closure clips or clasps shall be of acceptable design and fitted with metal backing 
plates.  
 
5.5.4 Domed studs  
Domed studs shall be suitable for attachment by rivets or screws.  
 
5.5.5 Attachment rings  
Attachment rings shall be D -rings, O -rings, rectangles, square, or triangles.  
 
5.5.6 Eyelets  
Eyelets shall be one or  more piece type.  
 
5.5.7 Frames  
Frames shall be fitted with robust swivel points at each end, and the rigidit y, width, and depth of 
channelling of a frame shall be such as to ensure a tenacious grip when the frame is pressed on to the 
body of thebag.  
 
5.5.8 Press studs  
Press studs shall be of the male and female type and shall have a tenacious grip.  
 
5.5.9 Riv ets  
Rivets shall be one of the following types:  
a) tubular rivets with caps;  
b) bifurcated rivets with caps;  
c) solid copper rivets with flat washes;  
d) ribbed nails with locking washes.  
 
5.5.10 Slide fasteners  
Interlocking slide fasteners shall be of an intrinsically corrosion -resistant metal or a synthetic 
material.  
 
5.5.11 Turn locks  PRD/SZNS 072:2022  
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©SWASA 20 22 – All rights reserved                                                  9 
 Turn locks shall have backing plates of the screw or the cleated lug design, and shall have a rob ust 
and secure swivel closure.  
5.6 Plastic components  
All plastic components, whether functional or decorative, shall have been properly plated and, when 
tested in accordance with 10.6, shall show no sign of cracks or pit marks. They shall be of an 
acceptable design and adequate size and strength for their intended funct ion.  
Closure clips, domed  studs, attachment rings, and turn locks shall comply with the requirements given 
in 5.5.3, 5.5.4, 5.5.5, and 5.5.11, respectively  
6 General constructional requirements  
6.1 General  
All bags shall be acceptably lined. The shape,  dimensions, fittings, style, and stitching shall be as 
specified by the purchaser.  
6.2 Riveting  
All rivets shall be securely and neatly attached and of sufficient length to allow t he caps to be firmly 
clinched.  
6.3 Stitches, seams and stitching  
6.3.1 Stitches  
The number of stitches shall be 6 -8 per 25 mm and in the case of leather, 6 -10 per 25 mm, or as 
specified by the purchaser .  
 
6.3.2 Seams  
Seams shall be free from twists, pleats, and puckers. The seam allowances shall be subject to the 
tolerance s normal to good manufacturing practice.  
 
6.3.3 Stitching  
Stitching may be functional or decorative or both. In no instance shall the number of stitches per unit 
length be of such frequency as to impair or appreciably reduce the strength of the material being 
stitched. The ends of all stitched seams shall be back -stitche d and free from loose threads.  
6.4 Handles and shoulder straps  
The construction of a carrying handle or shoulder strap made from a plastic material shall be such that 
the handle or shoul der strap is interlined with a leather strip of thickness at least 0.5 mm or with any 
other acceptable material of similar strength. The interlining shall be stitched in with the turned -in 
edges of the outer covering material along the entire length of the  handle or strap (including the points 
of att achment to the body of a bag).  
6.5 Attachment of handles  
Handles shall be securely attached either to the front and back panels or to reinforced gusset panels. 
The attachment of a handle to the top of a closur e flap shall not be permissible unless the entire length 
of the top (fold -over) portion is adequately reinforced w ith an acceptable metal strip.  
6.6 Workmanship and finish  
Workmanship and finish shall be in accordance with sound trade practice. A bag sha ll be clean, well 
made, and free from any defect that affects the appearance or may affect the serviceability of the bag. 
Sewing shall be uniform and double rows of stitching shall be uniform unless intended to be 
otherwise. Linings shall have been so trea ted as to prevent fraying.  
 PRD/SZNS  072:2022  
Edition 1  
 
 
10            ©SWASA 20 22 – All rights reserved  
          
  7 Constructional requirements  
7.1 General  
The construction of the bags shall be agreed upon between the purchaser and the 
supplier /manufacturer . 
7.1 Type A: bag having a top frame  
7.1.1 Compartments and pockets  
a) The frame  and the main gussets shall be such that the hand has easy access when the framed 
compartment of a bag is opened; this shall also apply to any compartment adjacent to the framed 
compartment.  
 
b) An internal pocket or pouch, with or without a slide fastene r, shall have at least one expanding 
gusset to allow easy access, and each pocket shall be of an acceptable size in rela tion to its intended 
function.  
7.2 Type B: bag having a closure flap  
7.2.1 Compartments and pockets  
a) The main gussets shall, when e xpanded, allow the hand easy access to all compartments.  
b) Pockets forming partitions between compartments shall be fitted with slide fasteners and pockets 
shall be securely attached at each end to the main gussets of the bag.  
c) Smaller internal pocket s shall comply with 7.1.1 (b).  
7.3 Type C:bag closing with a sl ide fastener  
7.3.1 Compartments and pockets  
a) The main gussets shall, when expanded, allow the hand easy access to all compartments.  
b) Pockets forming partitions between compartments shal l be fitted with slide fasteners and pockets 
shall be securely attached at each end to the main gussets of the bag.  
c) Smaller internal pocket s shall comply with 7.1.1 (b).  
8 Packaging, labelling and marking  
8.1 Packaging  
The bags shall be packed in in dividual suitable materials and then so packed, in suitable bulk 
containers, as to protect them from damage dur ing transportation and storage.  
8.2 Labelling and marking  
8.2.1 Care labelling  
Each  bag shall have a label that is permanently secure and prov ides correct and appropriate care 
instructions .  
 
8.2.2 bags  
A fabric label that is securely sewn to the lining on the inside of each bag shall be neatly, legibly, and 
indelibly marked with the following information:  
 
(i) the manufacturer’s name or trade  mark (or both);  
 
(ii) the year of manufacture;  
 
(iii) the batch identification;  
 
(iv) the outer material, i.e. leather, PVC -coated fabric, or polyurethane -coated fabric.  
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 (v) Care label  
 
(vi) country of origins  
 
8.2.3 Bulk containers  
The following information shall appear in neat, legible, and indelible marking on the outside of each 
bulk container:  
(i) the manufacturer’s name or trade mark (or both);  
 
(ii) the type and category;  
 
(iii) the style or model;  
 
(iv) the colour;  
 
(v) the quality;  
 
(vi) the nature of the outer material and lining.  
 
(vii) country of origin  
 
8.2.4 Additional marking  
When so required by the purchaser, bags or bulk containers or both shall bear information additional 
to that specified in 8.2.1 and 8.2.2.  
9 Sampling a nd compliance with the specificati on  
9.1 Sampling  
Sampling shall be done in accordance with ISO 2588. The following sampling procedure shall be 
applied in determining whether a lot complies with the relevant requirements of the specification. The 
samples  so taken shall be deemed to represent the lot.  
 
9.1.1 Sample for inspection  
After checking the lot for compliance with the requirements of clause 8, draw from it at random the 
number of bags shown in column 2 of Table 6 relative to the appropriate lot s ize shown in column 1.  
 
9.1.2 Sample for testing  
9.1.2.1 bags  
After inspection (see 10.1) of the sample taken according to 9.1.1 take from it at random at least one 
handbag.  
 
9.1.2.2 Materials  
Use a sample (of size large enough for the relevant tests)  of each thread, and in the case of handbags 
with a coated fabric outer, of the backing fabric used in the manufacture of the lot.  
 
Table 6 — Sample sizes  
Lot size, handbags  
 Sample for inspection, 
handbags  
 Acceptance No  
 
10-100 
101-500 
501-1000  
1001 -1500  
1501 -2500  
 10 
20 
30 
40 
55 0 
1 
2 
3 
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9.2 Compliance with the specification  
The lot shall be deemed to comply with the requirements of the specification if, after inspection and 
testing of the samples drawn in accordance with 9.1, the number of defec ts found does not exceed the 
relevant acceptance number given in column 3 of Table 6.  
10 Methods of test  
10.1 Inspection  
Inspect each bag in the sample drawn in accordance with 9.1.1 for compliance with all the relevant 
requirements of Clause 5 to Claus e 7 (inclusive) compliance with which is not assessed by the tests 
given in 10.2 to 10.6 (inclusive)  
10.2 The thickness  
Use ISO 2286 -3 or ISO 2589  
10.3 Leather components  
10.3.1 Preparation of test specimens  
Use ISO 2419.  
10.3.2 pH value  
Use ISO 404 5  
10.3.3 Tearing strength  
Use ISO 3377 -1 or ISO 3377 -2 as appropriate.  
10.3.4 Shrinkage temperature  
Use ISO 3380.  
10.3.5 Scuff resistance  
Use IUP 22 and IUP 23  
10.3.6 Resistance of finish  
Use ISO 11644.  
10.3.7 Flex endurance  
Use ISO 5402 -1 & -2.  
10.3.8 Adhesion of finish  
Use ISO 11644.  
10.3.9 Colour fastness to light  
Use ISO 105 -B02.  
10.3.10 Strength at right angles to stitch perforation  
Use ISO 23910.  
10.3.11 Fastness to water spotting  
Use ISO 15700.  
10.4 Coated fabric components  
10.4.1 Mass per unit area  
Use ISO 2286 -1 to determine the mass per unit square metre of the coated fabric. Then use ISO 2286 -
2 (using a suitable solvent) to remove the coating on each specimen, and determine the mass per 
square metre of the coating by difference .  
10.4.2 Bleeding in water  
10.4.2.1 Apparatus  
An oven maintained at 70 °C ± 1 °C.  
10.4.2.2 Procedure  
From the sample under test cut a specimen of size approximately 100 mm x 100 mm, and cut it into 
test pieces of size 10 mm x 10 mm.  PRD/SZNS 072:2022  
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 Place the test pi eces in a beaker containing 100 ml of distilled water and place the beaker in the oven 
for 24h ± 1 h.  
After removing the test pieces examine the water for discolouration (bleeding) against a white 
background, and assess the extent of bleeding on the follo wing scale:  
0 = No bleeding (water free from colour)  
1 = Slight bleeding  
2 = Moderate bleeding  
3 = Severe bleeding  
10.4.3 Blocking  
Use ISO 5978.  
10.4.4 Colour fastness to light  
Use ISO 105 -B02.  
10.4.5 Volatile matter content  
10.4.5.1 Apparatus  
An air circulating oven maintained at 105 °C ± 1 °C.  
 
10.4.5.2 Procedure  
From the sample under test cut three test specimens, each of size about 50 mm x 100 mm, condition 
them at 65 % ± 5 % relative humidity and 20 °C ± 1 °C for 2 h, and determine the mass  of each 
specimen to the nearest milligram.  
Place the test specimens in the oven for 5 h, remove and condition and determine the mass as in (1) 
above.  
 
10.4.5.3 Calculation  
Calculate the loss of volatile matter as follows:  
 
Where  
m1 = mass of original  sample, g  
m2 = loss of mass of sample, g  
 
10.4.6 Peel strength of coating  
Use ISO 3379.  
10.4.7 Resistance to rubbing  
Use ISO 17076 -1 or ISO 17076 -2 as appropriate.  
10.4.8 Tearing strength  
Use ISO 3377 -1 or ISO 3377 -2 as appropriate.  
10.4.9 Resistan ce to flex cracking  
Use ISO 32100.  
10.4.10 Strength at right angles to stitch perforations  
Use ISO 23910.  
10.5 Backing fabrics and fabric linings  
10.5.1 Mass per unit area  
Use ISO 3801 for woven fabrics and ISO 9073 -1 for knitted fabrics.  
10.5.2 Fil ling content (fabric linings)  
Use ISO 2286 -2.  
10.5.3 Breaking strength (woven fabrics)  
Use ISO 1421.  
10.5.4 Wales and courses per unit length (Queen's cord knitted fabrics)  
Use ASTM D8007.  
10.5.5 Bleeding in plasticized 9backing fabrics)  
10.5.5.1 App aratus  
An oven maintained at 100 °C ± 2 °C.  PRD/SZNS  072:2022  
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  10.5.5.2 Procedure   
From the sample under test cut a specimen of size approximately 100 mm x 100 mm, and cut it into 
test pieces of size about 10 mm x 10 mm.  
Place the test pieces in a beaker containing 100 ml  of Di -iso-octyl phthalate. Cover the beaker with a 
watch glass and place in the oven for 1 h. Remove the beaker from the oven, remove the test pieces 
from the plasticizer, and examine the plasticizer for bleeding (discoloration) against a white 
background . Assess the extent of bleeding on the following scale:  
0 = No bleeding (i.e. no colour change)  
1 = Slight bleeding  
2 = Moderate bleeding  
3 = Severe bleeding  
10.6 Breaking strength of sewing threads  
Use ISO 2062.  
10.7 Adequacy of plating of plated p lastics components  
10.7.1 Apparatus  
A microscope or other device capable of 8X magnification.  
10.7.2 Procedure  
Heat the plastics component under test in boiling water for 5 min. Remove and allow it to dry and 
cool for 1 h. Then, using the magnifying ap paratus, examine it for signs of cracks or pit marks or both.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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ICS  
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