DEAS / 1111: 2022  
ii © EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  
  DRAFT EAST AFRICAN STANDARD  
 
 Footwear — Canvas shoes — 
Specification  
 
EAST AFRICAN COMMUNITY  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  DEAS/ 1111: 2022  
© EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  iii 
 Copyright notice  
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© East African Community  2022 — All rights reserved  
East African Community   
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Arusha  
Tanzania  
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Reproduction for sales purposes may be subject to royalty payments or a licensing agreement.  Violators 
may be prosecuted .                                                                                                                        DEAS / 1111: 2022  
iv © EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  
 Contents  Page 
Foreword  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ......................  v 
1 Scope  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .............  1 
2 Normative references  ................................ ................................ ................................ ....................  1 
3 Terms and definitions  ................................ ................................ ................................ ....................  2 
4 Requirements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ . 2 
4.1 General Requirements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ..........................  2 
4.1.1  Material  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..........  3 
4.1.2  Binding material  ................................ ................................ ................................ .............................  3 
4.1.3  Material and dimensions  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................  3 
4.1.4  Eyelets  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........  3 
4.1.5  Constructional  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................  3 
4.1.6  Finish  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .............  4 
4.1.7  Laces  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .............  4 
4.2 Specific Requirements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ..........................  4 
5 Packaging  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................  7 
6 Marking/Labeling ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................  8 
6 .1 Shoes  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .............  8 
6.2 Primary packaging  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................  8 
6.3 Bulk Packaging  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..... 8 
7. Sampling and criteria for compliance ................................ ................................ .............................  8 
Annex A  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ......................  9 
A.1 Scale of sampling  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ . 9 
A.2 Method of selection  ................................ ................................ ................................ ..............................  9 
A.3 Defects  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...............  10 
A.4 Acceptance criteria  ................................ ................................ ................................ .............................  10 
Annex B  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ....................  12 
B.1 Apparatus  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..... 12 
B.2 Preparation of test specimens  ................................ ................................ ................................ ..... 12 
B.3 Procedure  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .... 12 
B.4 Test report  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .... 12 
Bibliography  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..............  13 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  DEAS/ 1111: 2022  
© EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  v 
 Foreword  
Development of the East African Standards has been necessitated by the need for harmonizing requirements 
governing quality of products and services in the East African Community. It is envisaged that through 
harmonized standardization, trade barriers that are encountered when goods and services are exchanged within 
the Community will be removed.  
The Community has established an East African Standards Committee  (EASC)  mandated to develop and issue 
East African Standards  (EAS) . The Committee is composed of r epresentatives of the National Standards Bodies 
in Partner States, together with the representatives from the public and private sector organizations  in the 
community .  
East African Standards are developed through  Technical Committees that are representati ve of key 
stakeholders including government, academia, consumer groups, private sector and other interested parties. 
Draft East African Standards are circulated to stakeholders through the National Standards Bodies in the Partner 
States. The comments recei ved are discussed and incorporated before finalization of standards, in accordance 
with the Principles and procedures for development of East African  Standards.  
East African Standards are subject to review, to keep pace with technological advances. Users of the East 
African Standards are therefore expected to ensure that they always have the latest versions of the standards 
they are implementing .  
The committee responsible  for this document is Technical Committee EASC/TC 06 4, Footwear  
Atten tion is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be subject of patent rights. 
EAC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.  DEAS/ 1113: 2022   
 
© EAC 2022 – All rights reserved  
  
 Footwear — Canvas shoes — Specification  
1 Scope  
This  Draft East Africa n Standard specifies  requirements, sampling and test methods for canvas shoes  
2 Normative references   
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content constitutes 
requirements of this document.  For dated references, only the  edition cited applies. For undated references, the 
latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.  
EAS 256, Textiles — Method for determination of scouring loss in grey and finished cotton materials   
ISO 48 -2, Rubber, vulcani zed or thermoplastic — Determination of hardness — Part 2: Hardness between 10 
IRHD and 100 IRHD  
 
ISO 105 -B01, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part B01: Colour fastness to light: Daylight  
 
ISO 105 -B02, Textiles — Tests for colour  fastness Part B02: Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading 
lamp test       
 
ISO 105 -C10, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part C10: Colour fastness to washing with soap or soap 
and soda  
 
1833 -11, Textiles — Quantitative chemical analysis — Part 11: Mixtures of certain cellulose fibres with certain 
other fibres (method using sulfuric acid)  
ISO 2589, Leather — Physical and mechanical tests — Determination of thickness  
 
ISO 2781 , Rubber, vulcanized or thermoplastic — Determination of  density  
 
ISO 3801 , Textiles — Woven fabrics — Determination of mass pe r unit length and mass per unit area  
 
ISO 3376, Leather — Physical and mechanical tests — Determination of tensile strength and percentage 
extension  
ISO 7211 -1, Textiles — Woven fabrics — Construction — Methods of analysis — Part 1: Methods for the presentation 
of a weave diagram and plans for drafting, denting and lifting  
ISO 7211 -2, Textiles — Woven fabrics — Construction — Methods of analysis — Part 2: Determination of 
number of threads per unit length  
 
ISO 7771, Textiles — Determination of dimens ional changes of fabrics induced by cold -water immersion  
 
ISO 9407, Footwear sizing — Mondopoint system of sizing and marking  
ISO 13934 -1, Textiles — Tensile properties of fabrics — Part 1: Determination of maximum force and elongation 
at maximum force using the strip method  
 
ISO 16177, Footwear — Resistance to crack initiation and growth -- Belt flex method  
 
ISO 17072 -1, Leather — Chemical determination of metal content — Part 1: Extractable metals   
2 © EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  
  
ISO 19952, Footwear — Vocabulary  
 
ISO 20344, Personal protective equipment — Test methods for footwear  
 
ISO 20871, Footwear — Test methods for outsoles — Abrasion resistance  
 
22198,  Textiles — Fabrics — Determination of width and length  
 
3 Terms and definitions  
For the purposes of this document, the terms and definitions given in  ISO 19952, and the following definitions 
apply.  
 
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:  
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at http://www .iso.org/obp  
3.2  
synthetic materials  
materials made of polyurethane  (PU), polyvinylchloride ( PVC) and other synthetic materials which are used as 
footwear materials and/or   components  
 
3.3  
lot  
a collection of canvas footwear in consignment belonging to the same pattern of batch manufacture.  
 
3.4  
sample  
pairs of footwear of any particular size, fitting and pattern submitted for testing on specifications given in this 
standard  
 
3.5  
defect   
failure or fault of a footwear to meet the requirements of this standard with regard to physical, chemical and 
performance requirements.  Also, irregularity in material workmanship or damage due to careless and 
inadequate packing  
 
3.6  
defective footwear  
 a footwear having one or more defects as described in 3.5  
 
3.7 Canvas  
A strong, firm , single,  or double end plain or twill weave cloth made with single or p lied yarns and in which the  
warp predominates  
 
 
4 Requirements  
4.1 General Requirements  
The method of construction shall follow the principle applicable for that type of footwear.  The sizing and fitting 
shall be in accordance with ISO 9407   
  
© EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  3 
 4.1.1 Material  
 
4.1.1.1 Upper canvas  
 
The upper canvas shall be a combination of face fabric and bac king fabric that are so stuck together with a 
suitable adhesive. The fabrics shall comply with the requirements specified in Tables 1 and 2 respectively when 
tested in accordance with the test methods prescribed therein.  
 
4.1.1.2 Face fabric   
 
The face fab ric shall be of cotton canvas bleached or dyed finish and shall comply with the requirements  of 
Table 1 when tested in accordance with the test methods prescribed therein.  
 
4.1.1.3 Backing fabric  
 
The backing fabric shall be unbleached cotton drill complying with the requirements specified in Table 2 when 
tested in accordance with the test methods prescribed therein.  
 
 
4.1.2  Binding material  
 
4.1.2 .1 Bleached or dyed cotton cloth complying with the requirements of Table 3 shall be used when tested in 
accordance with the test methods prescribed therein.  
 
4.1.2.2 The number of stitches  shall be 3 to 4 per  cm 
 
 
4.1.3 Material and dimensions  
Individual components of the shoe shall comply with the requirements given in Table 4 when tested in 
accordance with the test methods prescribed therein.  
4.1.4 Eyelets  
Plastic, brass, aluminum, coated or enameled eyelets.  The barrels shall be long enough to ensure proper 
clinching on the facings.  
 
Eyelets shall be made of corrosion resistant materials or coated with such. The barrels shall be long enough to 
ensure proper clinching on the facings  
 
4.1.5 Constructional  
4.1.5.1 The top and inside edges of all sections for upper shall be bound and the binding shall extend to the 
end of the lasted overlay.  
 
4.1.5.2 All seams shall be free from ridges and roughness.  No loose, rugged or uneven seams shall be visible.  
The minimum requirements for the attachmen t of various upper components shall be as follows:  
 
a) Minimum of 1 row of stitching.  
b) minimum of 5 stitches per 10 min.  
 
4.1.5.3 The eyelets (where applicable) shall be evenly spaced along the facings of the shoes and shall not be 
less than 2 pairs on each shoe.  
 
4.1.5.4 Upper canvas shall be slip lasted or lasted such that it provides an overlay round the inner sole of  
 
                minimum width 12.5 mm.  
   
4 © EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  
 4.1.6 Finish  
Defects commonly observed during visual inspection of canvas shoes are categorized as in Annex A.3.  
Permissible number of defects shall be given in the sampling scheme.  
 
4.1.7 Laces  
 (Where  applicable) — Each pair of shoes shall be provided with one pair of laces of correct length.  Both ends 
of the lace shall bear tags (aglet) of metal or plastic materials.  The length of tags shall be not less than 13 mm 
and they shall not have rough joints .   
 
 
4.2 Specific Requirements  
The canvas  upper  shall be a combination of face fabric and backing fabric that are bond together with a suitable 
adhesive with a bond strength of 4 N/mm (min) when tested in accordance with Annex B. 
Bottom material of the shoes  and upper canvas material shall comply with the specific  physical  requirements 
given in Table  1-5 when tested in accordance with the test methods prescribed therein.  
 
Table 1 — Requirements for face fabric  
 
 
S/N Characteristic  Requirement  Test 
method  
i.  Weave  Plain/ /twill ISO 7211 -1 
ii.  Number of threads per 10 mm , min 
 
 
a)  Warp  
 
b)  Weft Cellulosic  
 
 
27 
 
14 Blends  
 
 
24 
 
14 ISO 7211 -2 
iii.  Fiber Composition, %  min. 100 70 
cellulose  ISO 1833 -11 
iv.  Mass g/m2, min. non laminated  240 190  
ISO 3801  
v.  Breaking load (N) (min.)  
 
a) Warp direction  
 
b)  Weft direction)   
 
 
800 
 
800  
 
 
1700  
 
1100  ISO 13934 -1 
vi.  Dimensional change (%) max.  
 
a) Warp direction  
 
b) Weft direction   
 
2.5 
 
2.5  
 
1 
 
1 ISO 7771  
vii.  Colours to 
washing, min.  
  
Colour Change  4 4  
ISO 105 -C10 
 
Staining  4 4 
viii.  Colour fastness to Light , min.  
 5 5 ISO 105 -B01 
ISO 105 -B02 
 
 
 
  
© EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  5 
 Table 2 — Requirements for backing fabric  
 
 
S/N Characteristic  Requirement  
 Test method   
i.  Fibre composition  100% cellulose  ISO 1833 -11 
 
ii.  Number of threads per 10 mm , min  
 
a) Warp  
 
b) Weft  
 
20 
 
15 ISO 7211 -2 
iii.  Mass g/m2 , min  230 ISO 3801  
iv.  Breaking  load (N) on  (5 x 20) cm 
cotton  test piece (min.)  
 
a) Warp direction  
 
b) Weft direction   
 
 
700 
 
650 ISO 13934 -1 
v.  Dimensional change for fabric (%) 
max.  
 
a)  Warp  
 
b)  Weft  
 
 
2.5 
 
2.5 ISO 7771  
vi.  Colour fastness 
to washing, min.  Colour change   
4 
 ISO 105 -C10 Staining  4 
vii.  Light , min.  
 5 ISO 105 -B01 
ISO 105 -B02 
 
 
 
 
 
Table 3 — Requirements for cloth binding material  
 
 
 
S/N Characteristic  Requirement  
 Test method   
i.  Breaking load for 
cotton , N, min  
360 
 
 ISO 13934 -1 
ii.  Width, mm, min  13 ISO 22198  
 
 
  
6 © EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  
  
 
Table 4 — Material and dimensional requirements for individual components of canvas 
shoes  
 
 
 
S/N Rubber material  Blown PVC material  Test 
Method  
Component  Material  Thickness 
(mm) min.  Component  material  Thickness(mm)  
Min.  
i) Foxing  tape Rubber  2.0 Foxing  - - ISO 2589  
ii) Toe cap, 
min Rubber  1.5 Toe cap  Blown PVC  1.7 
iii) Outer sole  
With/out 
cleats  Rubber  Men 5.0  
Women 
/children 4.0  Outer sole  
With/out 
cleats  Blown PVC  Men 6.0  
Women/children 
5.0 
iv) Heel 
(with/out 
cleats ) Rubber  6.0 Heel (with/out 
cleats ) Blown PVC  7.0 
v) Inner sole 
/In socks  Rag or other 
material  2.5 Inner sole / In 
socks  Rag or other 
material  2.5 
vi) Bottom 
filling  Cellulose/  
wool 1.0 Bottom filling  Cellulose/wo
ol 1.0 
vii) Counter /Stiff
ener and 
toe puff  Fabric/PVC 
or other 
acceptable 
material  
 1.3 Counter /Stiffe
r and toe puff  PVC 1.3 
 
 
 
 
Table 5 — Physical requirements for bottom material  
 
S/N Characteristic  Requirement  Test 
method  
  
Heel, Sole  Foxing  tape and 
toe cap  
 
Rubber  Expanded/
blown 
PVC Expande
d/blown 
PU Other 
materials 
(including 
composite 
materials ) Rubber  Other 
materi
als  
i.  Relative density 
(max.)  1.3 0.6 - 0.9 0.25- 0.55 1.7 1.4 1.7  
ISO 2 781 
ii.  Hardness IRHD  
 60 ± 5  
      
         
40 - 60  
30 - 55  
40 - 90 55±5 40-90 
ISO 48 -2 
iii.  initial 
crack — 60 000  25 000  25, 000  25 000  - -   
© EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  7 
 Flexing 
resistan
ce 
 min. 
(number       
of cycles)  ISO 
16177  
cut 
grow th 
after 120 
000 
cycles, 
max. (%)  600 800 800 800 
 - - 
iv.  Elongation at break 
in both directions, 
min. (%)  
  
 
300 
  
 
100 
  
 
80  
 
60 
 - - 
 ISO 
3376  
v.  Abrasion resistance 
mm3, max 300 450 600 600 - -  ISO 
20871  
vi.  Tensile strength 
MPa (min.)  
   
 
7  
 
3  
 
2  
 
1.5 
 
 - - 
ISO 3376  
vii.  Compression set, %, 
max.  - 35 35 25   ISO 
20344  
viii.  Lead content (ppm), 
max.  1 1 1 1 - - ISO 
6101 -2 
 
 
 
Table 6 — Whole shoe assembly  
 
The whole shoe  assembly  shall comply with the  specific physical  requirements given in Table 6 when tested in 
accordance with the test methods prescribed therein.  
 
S/N Characteristic  Requirement  Test method  
 
i.  Outer sole bond strength, N /mm, 
min. at:  
a) Fore part  
b) Waist  
c) Heel   
 
 
4 ISO 20344  
    
    
ii.  Ageing of rubber and other  
material components.  
 No signs of 
brittleness or 
tackiness.   ISO 188  
 
5 Packaging  
 Each pair shall be packed in a suitable manner so as to protect it from damage during normal transportation, 
storage and handling   
8 © EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  
 6 Marking /Labeling  
6 .1 Shoes  
The following information shall be legibly and indelibly marked on the sock or any other suitable visible place:  
 
a) manufacturer’s name and/or registered trade mark;  
b) size fitting number of footwear;  
c) country of manufacture/origin;  
d) batch number;  and  
e) type of material (upper and bottom).  
 
6.2 Primary packaging  
The primary packaging materia l shall be legibly and indelibly labelled with the following information:  
a) size of footwear;  
b) colour of footwear;  
c) batch number;  
d) manufacturer’s n ame or registered trade mark; and  
e) country of manufacture/origin.  
 
 
6.3 Bulk Pa ckaging  
Each bale shall be legibly and indelibly labelled with the following information:  
a) name of product as “ Canvas  shoes”;  
b) quantity;  
c) name of manufacturer or local supplier’s name and/or registered trade mark; and  
d) country of manufacture/origin.  
 
 
7. Sampling and criteria for compliance  
For the purpose of ascertaining the compliance of shoes in a consignment to this specification, the scale of 
sampling and criteria for compliance shall be as prescribed in Annex A.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
© EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  9 
 Annex A  
(normative)  
 
Methods of sampling and criteria for acceptance  
A.1 Scale of sampling  
A.1.1  Samples shall be selected and examined for each lot separately for ascertaining the conformity of the 
footwear to the requirements of this standard.  
A.1.2  Footwear shall be considered to be of different lots if they differ in shape, colour, size and desi gn.  
A.1.3  The number of footwear pairs to be selected from any lot shall depend on the size of the lot and shall be 
in accordance with Columns 1 and 2 of Table A.1.  
A.2 Method of selection  
A.2.1  Footwear to be selected from the lot shall be chosen at ran dom. To ensure randomness the procedure 
in A.2.3 shall be used.  
A.2.2  When the footwear pairs in a lot are not packed in a number of cases (boxes), the sampling shall be as 
follows:  
Starting from any footwear pair in the lot, count the pairs as 1,2, etc ---up to r and so on in one order. Every r th 
pair thus counted shall be withdrawn to constitute a sample (r is the integral part of N/n where N is the lot size 
and n is the sample size). This procedure shall be stopped as soon as the required number of pai rs is 
obtained.  
For example, if a sample of 125 pairs is to be selected from a lot of 3 000 pairs, compute r as equal to integral 
part of 3 000/125=24. Starting from any pair, the footwear shall be counted in one order and every 24th pair 
shall be withdra wn.  
A.2.3  When the footwear pairs in a lot are packed in different cases (boxes), a suitable number of boxes (not 
less than 30 % of the total boxes in the lot) shall be first chosen at random. For each of the boxes so chosen, 
an approximately equal number  of pairs shall be picked up from its different parts so as to obtain the required 
number of pairs. For example, if a lot consists of 1 000 pairs of footwear packed in 50 boxes, each containing 
20 pairs, choose more than 15 boxes at random. If it is decide d to open 20 boxes, then 4 pairs shall be picked 
up from different parts of each of the 20 boxes to give a total of 80 pairs as specified in Table A.1.   
10 © EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  
   
Table A.1 — Scale of sampling and permissible number of defects  
 
Number of 
footwear pairs in a 
lot Samples for 
visually observed 
defects (Pairs)  Permissible 
number of 
defectives (Pairs)  Sample size for 
laboratory testing 
(Pairs)  Permissible 
number of defects 
(Pairs)  
(1) (2) (3) (4) (5) 
Up to 50  13 0 2 0 
51 to100  20 1 3 0 
101 to 300  32 1 3 0 
301 to 500  50 2 5 1 
501 to 1 000  80 3 6 1 
1 001 to 3 000  125 5 7 2 
3 001 and above  200 7 8 3 
 
 
A.3 Defects  
All randomly selected footwear pairs (Table A.1, Column 2) shall be inspected for visually observed defects, i.e:  
a) difference in shape, design and colour;  
b) odd pairing and incorrect size;  
c) distorted shapes;  
d) faulty jointing and adhesion of sole,  heel, toe guard, toe cap and insole;  
f) broken stitches and incorrect stitching;  
g) missing or defective eyelets/speed hooks or uneven eyeleting/hooking;  
h) variations in positioning of eyelets/speed hooks;  
i) stiffener not centrally placed;  
j) unfit lace;  
k) finish not even and unpolished; and  
l) missing or defective buckles/buckling assembly.  
A.4 Acceptance criteria  
The number of defective footwear pa irs shall not exceed the permissible number given in Table A.1, Column 3. 
If the number of defective pairs exceeds the permissible number of defectives, the lot shall be rejected.  
In case the lot has been found satisfactory for visually observed defects, sample pairs for laboratory testing 
(Table A.1, Column 4) shall be taken from among those drawn (Table A.1, Column 2). The pairs shall be chosen 
at random and tested for dimensional, physical and chemical characteristics. If the number of defective footwea r 
is less than or equal to the corresponding permissible number of defectives given in Table A.1, Column 5, the  
© EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  11 
 lot shall be declared to have met the requirements of this standard. Otherwise if the defective footwear pairs 
are more than the corresponding p ermissible numbers of defectives, the lot shall be rejected.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
12 © EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  
 Annex B 
                                             (normative)  
 
Measurement of adhesive bond between facing and backing fabric  
 
B.1 Apparatus  
Tensile testing machine with constant rate of traverse of 50  5 m/min. with a graphic recorder.  
 
B.2 Preparation of test specimens  
Cut from upper light duty canvas specimen of 25 mm wide and 70 mm long. Dip one end of the specimen to a 
depth of 6 mm into Dimethyl Ketone (acetone) or petrol to separate the face fabric from the backing fabric for a 
distance of 5 mm. Condition the specimen for 24 h at room temperature.  
 
B.3 Procedure  
Clamp the free end of the face fabric in one of jaws of the machine and the free end of the backing fabric on the 
other. Operate the machine and record (graphically) the force required to separate the face fabric from the 
backing fabric over a distance of 50 mm (measured from the start of the unbroken bond on the test specimen ) 
 
B.4 Test report  
The strength of the bond shall be the arithmetic mean of the forces registered during the test divided by 25 
(N/mm).  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
© EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  13 
 Bibliography  
KS 1661:2019 Footwear — Canvas shoes — Specification