DRAFT UGANDA STANDARD  
  DUS 1654 -1 
First Edition  
2016 -mm-dd 
 
 
 DUS 1654 -1:2016 
© UNBS 2016   
  
Footwear — Men’ s shoes  — Specifications — Part1: Closed  
shoes  
 DUS 1654 -1:2016  
ii © UNBS 2016  – All rights reserved  
 Compliance with this standard does not; of itself confer immunity from legal obligations  
A Uganda Standard does not purport to include all necessary provisions of a contract. Users are 
respons ible for its correct application  
© UNBS 20 16  
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, no part of this publication may be reproduced or utilised in any 
form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and microfilm, without pr ior written 
permission from UNBS.  
Requests for permission to reproduce this document should be addressed to  
The Executive Director  
Uganda National Bureau of Standards  
P.O. Box 6329  
Kampala  
Uganda  
Tel: 256 41 4 505 995  
Fax: 256 41 4 286 123  
E-mail: info@unbs.go.ug  
Web: www.unbs.go.ug  DUS 1654 -1:2016  
© UNBS 2016  – All rights reserved  iii 
 Contents  Page 
Foreword  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................  iv 
1 Scope  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ......................  7 
2 Normative references  ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................  7 
3 Definitions  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..............  8 
4 Requi rements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .........  9 
4.1 General requirements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........................  9 
4.2 Material requirements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........................  9 
4.2.1  Uppers  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ....................  9 
4.2.2  Upper lining  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ............  9 
4.2.3  Bottom/sole  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ............  9 
4.2.4  Heel and top piece  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ . 9 
4.2.5  Stiffener and toe Puff  ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................  9 
4.2.6  Insole and sock  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...... 9 
4.2.7  Whole shoe assembly  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........................  9 
5 Workmanship and finish  ................................ ................................ ................................ .......................  9 
5.1 Workmanship  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .........  9 
5.2 Trimming  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..............  10 
5.3 Edge trimming  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..... 10 
5.4 Burnishing  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ............  10 
5.5 Defects  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..................  10 
5.6 Laces ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .....................  10 
6 Marking  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .................  10 
6.1 Footwear  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...............  10 
6.2 Carton  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................  10 
6.3 Bale  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .......................  11 
7 Packing  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .................  11 
ANNEX A:  (Normative)  SAMPLING AND CRITERIA FOR CONFORMITY  ................................ ..................  20 
A1. DEFINITIONS  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ........  20 
A2. SCALE OF SAMPLING  ................................ ................................ ................................ ........................  20 
A3. METHOD OF SELECTION  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................  20 
Bibliography  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ......................  23 
 DUS 1654 -1:2016  
iv © UNBS 2016  – All rights reserved  
 Foreword  
Uganda National Burea u of Standards (UNBS) is a parastatal under the Ministry of Trade , Industry and 
Cooperatives established under Cap 327 , of the Laws of Uganda , as amended . UNBS is mandated to co -
ordinate the elaboration of standards and is  
(a) a member of International Organi sation for Standardisation (ISO) and  
(b) a contact point for the WHO/FAO Codex Alimentarius Commission on Food Standards, and  
(c) the National Enquiry Point on TBT  Agreement  of the World Trade Organisation (WTO).  
The work of preparing Uganda Standards is carried  out through Technical Committees. A Technical 
Committee is established to deliberate on standards in a given field or area and consists of representatives of 
consumers, traders, academicians, manufacturers, government and other stakeholders.  
Draft Uganda Standards adopted by the Technical Committee are widely circulated to stakeholders and the 
general public for comments. The committee reviews the comments before recommending the draft standards 
for approval and declaration as Uganda Standards by the Natio nal Standards Council.  DUS 1654 -1:2016  
© UNBS 2016  – All rights reserved  v 
 Introduction  
This draft Uganda Standard intends to give specifications  for men’s closed  shoes. It will  assist footwear 
manufacturers and merchants in getting value for their products. In addition it will give the general consumers 
of the product bases to choose the products from an informed state.  
The main purpose of this standard therefore is to provide a basis for eval uating the quality of men’s closed  
shoes  
 DUS 1654 -1:2016  
vii  
 Footwear — Men’s  shoes— Specification — Part1: Closed  shoes  
1 Scope  
This draft Uganda Standard specifies the requirements  and test methods  for men’s closed  shoes  made from  
all types of materials and of all constructions and  designs . 
2 Normative references  
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated 
references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced 
document (including any amendments) applies  
ISO 19952, Footwear -Vocabulary  
US ISO 9407, Shoes sizes -Mondopoint system of si zing and marking  
ISO 2589, Leather -Physical and mechanical tests -Determination of thickness  
ISO 17706, Footwear -Test methods for uppers -Tensile strength and elongation  
US ISO 3376, Leather -Physical and mechanical tests -Determination of tensile strength and  percentage 
elongation  
ISO 17696, Footwear -Test methods for uppers, linings and insocks -Tear strength  
US ISO 11644, Leather -Test for adhesion of finish  
ISO 17700, Footwear -Test methods for uppers, linings and insocks -Colour fastness to rubbing  
ISO 17699, F ootwear -Test methods for uppers and lining -Water vapour permeability and absorption  
ISO 5398 -1, Leather -Chemical determination of chromic oxide content by titration  
US ISO 20344, Personal protective equipment -Test methods for footwear  
US ISO 4045, Leather -Chemical tests -Determination of Ph  
US ISO 4048, Leather -Chemical tests -Determination of matter soluble in dichloromethane and free fatty acid 
content  
ISO 4047, Leather -Determination of sulphated total ash and sulphated water insoluble ash  
ISO 4098, Leather -Chemical tests -Determination of water soluble matter, water soluble inorganic matter and 
water soluble organic matter  
US ISO 3380, Leather -Physical and mechanical tests -Determination of shrinkage temperature upto 100oc 
US ISO 105 -B02, Textiles -Tests for c olour fastness to artificial light   
viii © UNBS 2016  – All rights reserved  
 ISO 11642, Leather -Tests for colour fastness -Colour fastness to water  
ISO 20869, Footwear -Test method for outsoles, insoles, linings and insocks -Water soluble content  
ISO 7619 -2, Rubber, vulcanized or thermoplastic -Determ ination of indentation hardness  
ISO 22654, Footwear -Test methods for outsoles -Tensile strength and elongation  
ISO 17707, Footwear -Test methods for outsoles -Flex resistance  
ISO 20865, Footwear -Test methods for outsoles -Compression energy  
ISO 20875, Footwear -Test methods for outsoles -Determination of split tear strength and delamination 
resistance  
ISO 20874, Footwear -Test methods for outsoles -Needle tear strength  
US ISO 13287, Personal protective equipment -Footwear test method for slip resistance  
US ISO 4684,  Leather -Chemical tests -Determination of volatile matter  
ISO 17072 -2, Leather -Chemical determination of metal content  
ISO 6942, Protection against heat and fire -Evaluation of materials and material assemblies when exposed to 
a source of radiant heat  
ISO 33 78, Leather -Physical and mechanical tests -Determination of resistance to grain cracking and grain 
crack index  
ISO 20876, Footwear -Test methods for insoles -Resistance to stitch tear  
ISO 22649, Footwear -Test methods for insoles and insocks -water absorption a nd desorption  
ISO 9073 -2, Textiles -Test methods for non wovens -Determination of thickness  
US ISO 17708, Footwear -Test methods for whole shoe -Upper sole adhesion  
ISO 17697, Footwear -Test methods for uppers, lining and insocks -Seam strength  
ISO 17702, Footwe ar-Test methods for uppers -water resistance  
ISO 20871, Footwear -Test methods for outsoles -Abrasion resistance  
ISO 22650, Footwear -Test methods for whole shoe -Heel attachment  
ASTM D6182, Flexibility and Adhesion of finish on Leather  
ASTM D6020, Calculation of (Non mineral) Combined Tanning Agents and Degree of tannage  
3 Definitions  
For the purposes of this standard, the definitions given in ISO 19952  and the following definitions shall apply : 
3.1  
pu coated leather  
leather with a coating of polyurethane   
© UNBS 2016  – All rights reserved  ix 
 3.2  
pvc coated textiles   
textiles with a coating of polyvinylchloride  
3.3  
synthetic materials  
materials made of PU, PVC and other synthetic materials which are used as natural leather substitute  
4 Requirements  
4.1 General requirements  
The method of construc tion shall follow the princ iple applicable for that type. The sizing and fitting shall be in 
accordance with US ISO 9407  
4.2 Material requirements  
4.2.1 Uppers  
The upper characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table  1 
4.2.2 Upper lining  
The upper lining characteristics shall comply with th e requirements given in Table 2  
4.2.3 Bottom/sole  
The bottom/sole characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table 3  
4.2.4 Heel and top piece  
The heel and top piece characteristics shal l comply with the requirements given in Table  4 
4.2.5 Stiffener and toe Puff  
The stiffener and toe puff characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table 5  
4.2.6 Insole and sock  
The insole and sock characteristics shall comply with the requ irements given in  Table 6  
4.2.7 Whole shoe assembly  
The whole shoe assembly characteristics shall comply with the requirements  given in Table 7  
5 Workmanship and finish  
5.1 Workmanship  
The footwear shall be manufactured in accordance with sound manufacturi ng practice .  
x © UNBS 2016  – All rights reserved  
 5.2 Trimming  
Unless the heel seats are of the extended type, heels shall be trimmed smooth to the heel seats . 
5.3 Edge trimming  
The sole edges (other than pre -moulded outer sole and heel units) shall be trimmed smooth, stitched down 
constructi on shall be so trimmed that the distance beyond the outside of the stitching on the flanged portion of 
the upper is not less than 1.5 mm.  
5.4 Burnishing  
In leather footwear, the leather exposed at the sides of the heels and at the edges of the bottom shall  be 
stained, well waxed, set and polished.  
5.5 Defects  
Inner soles, runners and linings shall be free from protruding grinderies, roughness and pleats inside the shoe.  
5.6 Laces  
Each pair of lace up shoes shall be provided with  one pair  of laces . 
6 Markin g 
6.1 Footwear  
a) At the waist of the sole, the size/ fitting number of footwear shall be legibly and indelibly marked.  
b)  On the sock, the following shall be legibly and indelibly marked:  
i) Manufacturer’s name and/or registered trade mark  
ii) Size/ fitting numb er of footwear  
iii) Country of manufacture/origin  
iv) Type of material (upper and bottom)  
c) On the quarters or the tongue, the following shall be legibly and indelibly marked:  
i) Manufacturer’s name and/or registered trade mark  
ii) Batch number  
iii) Size/ fitting number of foo twear  
iv) Type of material (upper and bottom)  
d) On either the waist of the sole, the sock or the quarter, the manufacturer’s name or registered trade mark 
shall be legibly and indelibly marked  
6.2 Carton  
Each  box shall bear the following information legibly a nd indelibly marked   
© UNBS 2016  – All rights reserved  xi 
 i) Size of footwear  
ii) Manufacturer’s name or registered trade mark  
iii) Colour of footwear  
iv) Country of manufacture/origin  
v) Art identification number  
6.3 Bale  
Each bale shall bear the following information legibly and indelibly marked  
i) Name of product  
ii) Quantity  
iii) Name of manufacturer or local supplier’s name and/or registered trade mark  
iv) Net weight  
v) Country of manufacture/origin  
7 Packing  
Each pair of footwear shall be wrapped in a suitable material and packed in a suitable box that will protect it 
from damage  during normal transportation and storage . 
Table 1 — Upper material characteristics and requirements  
Characte
ristics  Materials and requirements  Test 
method  Leathe
r PU 
coated 
leather  Textile
s PU 
coated 
textiles  PVC 
coated 
textiles   
EVA/MCR  PU PVC Other  
materials 
(Include 
composite)  
(1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) 
Thicknes
s (mm), 
min. 1.2 0.7 — 0.7 0.7 
0.7 0.7 0.7 0.5 ISO 2589  
Tensile 
strength  
(MPa), 
min. 15 12 15 6 7.5 
2 6 6 6 ISO 17706 
& US ISO 
3376  
Elongatio
n at 
break, 
(%), Max   
30-80  
30-80  
15   
10-50  
10-50 80  
200  
250 
  
40-80 ISO 17706 
& US ISO 
3376  
Tear 
strength 
(N), min.  55 55 – 28 25  
20 25 30 20 ISO 17696  
Rub 
fastness 
(Grey  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
 ISO 17700   
xii © UNBS 2016  – All rights reserved  
 scale), 
min. 
dry 
wet 
  
 
 
3 
 
 
3 
  
 
 
3 
 
 
3  
 
 
3 
 
 
3  
 
 
3 
 
 
3  
 
 
3 
 
 
3 
  
3 
 
 
3 
  
 
   
3 
   
 
3 
  
 
  
 3 
   
 
3 
  
 
  
 3 
  
 
 3 
 
 
Adhesion 
to finish, 
N/cm, 
min.  
1 
  
0.8  
—  
—  
— 
—  
—  
— 
 
  
— US ISO 
11644  
Break 
pipeness 
(BP 
scale), 
max.   
3  
4  
4  
4  
4 —  
4  
4  
4  
 
Breaking  
load 
(N/mm), 
min.   
—  
—  
15  
10  
10 
—  
—  
—  
— 
  
Chrome 
content, 
%, max.   
4  
4  
—  
—  
— —  
— 
  
—  
— ISO 5398 -1 
Water 
vapour 
permeabi
lity, 
mg/cm2h, 
min.  
1  
1  
2  
2  
1 
2  
2  
1  
0.8 ISO 17699  
Water 
vapour 
coefficien
t 
(mg/cm2) 
,min.   
30  
30  
30  
30  
30 
–  
30  
30  
30 US ISO 
20344  
Martindal
e 
abrasion 
(revolutio
ns) mi n. 
dry 
wet  
 
 
 
 
 
— 
 
 
—  
 
 
 
 
 
25600  
 
 
6400   
 
 
 
 
 
25600  
 
 
6400   
 
 
 
 
 
25600  
 
 
6400   
 
 
 
 
 
25600  
 
 
6400  –  
 
 
 
 
 
25600  
 
6400   
 
 
 
 
2560
0 
 
 
6400   
 
 
 
 
25600  
 
 
6400  US ISO 
20344   
© UNBS 2016  – All rights reserved  xiii 
 pH value, 
min. 4 4 — 
 — 
 — 
 – — 
 — 
 — 
 US ISO 
4045  
pH 
differenc
e, max.  0.2 0.2 — 
 — 
 — 
 – — 
 — 
 — 
 US ISO 
4045  
 
Fat 
content, 
(% m/m), 
min.  
3  
3  
—  
—  
— 
—  
— 
  
— 
  
— 
 US ISO 
4048  
Total 
ash, (%), 
max.  5 5 — — — 
0.7 — 
 — 
 — 
 ISO 4047  
Total 
water 
soluble, 
(%), max.   
6  
6  
2  
2  
2 4  
2  
1 
  
4 ISO 4098  
Shrinkag
e, (%), 
max.  5 5 4 5 5 5 5 5 5 US ISO 
3380  
Light 
fastness, 
(blue 
wool 
standard
s), min.   
6  
6  
6  
6  
6 
6  
6  
6  
6 US ISO 
105-B02 
Wash 
fastness, 
(grey 
scale), 
min.  
–  
–  
4  
4  
4 4 
  
4  
4  
4 ISO 11642  
KEY 
EVA-Ethyl Vinyl Acetate, MCR -Micro Cellular Rubber, TPR -Thermoplastic Rubber, PU -Polyurathane  
PVC-Polyvinyl Chloride  
 
 
Table 2 — Upper lining material characteristics and requirements  
 
Characteristic   
Materials and requirements   
Test method  
Leather  PVC Textile  PU 
(1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) 
Thickness (mm),  min.  0.6 0.5 — 0.5 ISO 25 89 
Tensile strength (MPa), min.  6 5 8 5 ISO17706 & US ISO 
3376  
Elongation at break (%), min.  30 250 7 200 ISO17706 & US ISO 
3376  
Tear strength (N), min.  20 8 10 5 ISO 17696   
xiv © UNBS 2016  – All rights reserved  
 Rub fastness (gray scale), min.  
dry 
wet  
4 
4  
4 
4  
4 
4  
4 
4 ISO 17700  
Break p ipiness (Bp scale), max.  3 4 4 4  
Breaking load (N), min.  — — 130 —  
Chrome content  (%), max.  3.8  
— — — ISO 5398 -1 
Water vapour permeability (mg/cm2, 
h), min.  1 2 
 2 
 1 
 US ISO 20344 & ISO 
17699  
Water vapour coefficient (mg/cm2), 
min. 30 30 
 30 
 30 
 US ISO 20344  
Martindale abrasion (Revolutions), 
min. — — dry 4 000  
wet 2 000  — US ISO 20344  
PH value, min.  4 — 
 — 
 — 
 US ISO 4045  
Fat content (% m/m), min.  3 — — — US ISO 4048  
Total ash (%), max.  5 — — — ISO 4047  
Total water soluble (%), max.  6 1 2 1 US ISO 4098 & ISO 
20869  
Shrinkage %, max.  5 — 5 — US ISO 3380  
Light fastness (Blue wool  
standards),  min.  4 4 4 4 US ISO 105 -B02 
  
© UNBS 2016  – All rights reserved  xv 
 Table 3 — Bottom/sole material characteristics and requirements  
 
Characteristi
c Materials and requirements  
 
Test 
method   
Vulcaniz
ed 
Rubber   
PVC  
PU  
TPR  
EVA/M
CR  
Leathe
r Resin 
rubber   
Blown 
PU  
Blown
PVC Other  
materials(i
ncluding 
Composite
) 
(1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8)  
(9)  
(10)  
(11) (12) 
Hardness 
(IRHD)  60 – 85 50 – 
85 45 – 
90 45 – 
80 30 – 55 — 85 – 
98 30 – 
55 50-60 40-90 ISO 7619 -
2 
Specific 
gravity , max . 1.35 1.4 0.45–
0.65 1.15 0.65 0.9 
. 1.55 0.25-
0.55 0.6-
0.9 1.7  
Tensile 
strength 
(MPa), min  7 6 6 5 2 20 5.5  
2 6  
1.5 ISO 22654  
Elongation at 
break (%), 
min. 
Before  
ageing  
After  
ageing   
 
300 
110  
 
250 
  
 
 
200  
500  
400  
80  
20-60  
 
120 
110  
 
 
80  
 
 
100  
 
 
60-120 ISO 17706 
& US ISO 
3376  
Flex 
resistance  
Initial crack 
(cycles), max.  
Cut growth at  
150 000 
cycles (%), 
max.   
 
50 000  
600  
 
30 
000 
600  
 
50 
000 
600  
 
30 
000 
600  
 
25 000  
800  
50 000   
 
5 000  
500  
 
 
 
 
 
25 
000 
800  
 
 
 
 
 
25 
000 
800  
 
 
 
 
 
25 000  
800 ISO 17707  
Compression 
set %, max.  25 25 25 25 50 25 25 35 35 25 ISO 20865  
Split tear 
strength (N), 
min. 10 7.5 7.5 10 7.5 _ 7.5  
6.0  
6.0  
6.0 ISO 20875  
Stitch tear 
strength 
(N/mm), min.  70 40  35 25 55 100 50  
25  
25  
25 ISO 20874  
Slip 
resistance 
(coefficient of 
friction), min.  0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 – 0.5  
0.5  
0.5  
0.5 US ISO 
13287   
xvi © UNBS 2016  – All rights reserved  
  
 
Abrasion 
loss 
(mm3), 
max.  350 300 400 250 900 300 300 600 450 600 ISO 
20871  
Volatility 
(%), max.  – 2 – – – – – — 
 2 — 
 US ISO 
4684  
Lead Pb 
(ppm), 
max.  – 1 – – – – – — 
 — 
 — 
 ISO 
17072 -
2 
Total ash 
(%), max.   – – – – 3 – — 
 — 
 — 
 ISO 
4047  
Total 
water 
soluble 
(%), max.  – – – – – 21 – — 
 — 
 — 
 ISO 
4098 & 
ISO 
20869  
pH value, 
min. — 
 — 
 — 
 — 
 — 
 4 — 
 — 
 — 
 — 
 US ISO 
4045  
pH 
difference,  
max.  — 
 — 
 — 
 — 
 — 
 0.7 — 
 — 
 — 
 — 
 US ISO 
4045  
Heat 
shrinkage 
(%), max.  4 4 4 4 4 4 4  
4  
4  
4 ISO 
6942  
Degree of 
tannage, 
min. – – – – – 60 – – – – ASTM 
D6020  
Grain 
cracking 
on  
mandrel 3  – – – – – No 
crack  –  
–  
–  
– ISO 
3378  
KEY:  
EVA-Ethyl Vinyl Acetate, MCR -Micro Cellular Rubber, TPR -Thermoplastic Rubber, PU -Polyurethane  
PVC-Polyvinyl Chloride  
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
© UNBS 2016  – All rights reserved  xvii 
 Table 4 — Heel and top piece material characteristics and requirements  
Characteristic  Materials and requirements  
Test method  Top piece  Heel 
Vulcaniz
ed 
Rubber  Leather  PVC Resin 
Rubber  PVC TPR 
Hardness (IRHD)  88–98 – 88–98 65–75 70–80 60 min  ISO 7619 -2 
Specific gravity, max.  1.55 0.9 
 1.45 1.4 1.3 1.1  
Tensile strength (mPa)  6.0 - 17 15 10 7.0 ISO 22654  
Elongation at break (%), min.  
a)   Before ageing  
b)   After ageing   
120 
70–110  
– 
–  
200 
–  
120 
70 –110  
 
200  
120 
70 –110 ISO 17706 & 
US ISO 3376  
Flex resistance  
Initial crack (cycles), max.   
50 000   
10 000   
10 000   
15 000   
10 000   
15 000  ISO 17707  
 
Compression set % , max . 20 20 20 20 20 30 ISO 20865  
Slip resistance (coefficient of 
friction), min.   
0.5  
0.5  
0.5  
0.5  
0.5  
0.5 US ISO 13287  
Abrasion loss (mm3), max.  300 300 250 300 250 300 ISO 2087 1 
Volatility (%), max.  – – 1 – 1 – US ISO 4684  
Grain cracking on mandrel 3  – No cra ck – – – – ISO 3378  
Total ash (%), max.  – 3 5 – 5 – ISO 4047  
Total water soluble ( %), max.  – 21 – – – – ISO 4098 & 
ISO 20869  
Degree of tannage (%), min.  – 60 – – – – ASTM D6020  
Top piece -heel attachment 
(N), min  150 150 150 150 150 150 ISO 22 650 
 
Table 5 — Stiffener and toe puff characteristics and requirements  
Characteristic  Requirements   
Test method  Stiffener  Toe puff  
Hardness (IRHD), min.  70 50 ISO 7619 -2 
Flexibility (cycles), min.  50 000  50 000  ASTM D6182  
Water absorption (%), min.  25 25 US ISO 20344 & 
ISO 22649  
Resilience (%), min.  35 35  
Thickness (mm)  1.0 0.6 ISO 9073 -2  
xviii © UNBS 2016  – All rights reserved  
 Table 6 — Insoles and sock characteristics and requirements  
Characteristic  Requirements  
Test method  Insole  Sock  
Leather board  Paper board  Leather  PVC/PU  
Thickness (mm), min.  1.5 1.5 1.0 0.8 US ISO 20344  
Water absorption (%), max. 
Desorption  35 
40 35 
40 – – US ISO 20344  
ISO 22649  
Warp flexibility (cycles),  min.  15 000  15 000  – – ASTM D6182  
Shrinkage (%), max.  4 4 4 4 US ISO 3380  
Split tear strength (N/mm), min.  10 10 – – ISO 20875  
Insole/sock adhesion (N/mm), 
min.  
1.5  
1.5  
1.5  
1.5 US ISO 17708  
Rub fastness (Grey scale), min.  
Wet 
Dry  
 
4 
4  
 
4 
4  
 
4 
4  
 
4 
4 ISO 17700  
pH value, min  4 4 4 – US ISO 4045  
pH difference, min.  0.7 0.7 0.7 – US ISO 4045  
Water vapo ur permeability 
(mg/cm2h), min.  0.8 0.8 1 – US ISO 20344 & 
ISO 17699  
Coefficient of water vapour 
permeability g/cm2, , min.  30 30 30 30 US ISO 20344  
 
Table 7 — Physical requirements for the whole shoe assembly  
Characteristic   
Requirement   
Test method  
Sole Adhesion Strength, (N ),minimum  
 
Leather  
PVC/PU  
Rubber  
EVA/MCR   
Sole      Heel  
 
250 
360 
230 
110          200  US ISO 17708  
Seam strength (N/mm), min.  20 ISO 17697  
Water penetration after 5 h, max.  
 
Mass change (%), max.   
None  
5 ISO 17702  
Sole bond st rength (N/mm), min.  4 US ISO 20344   
© UNBS 2016  – All rights reserved  xix 
  
Finishes  
Buttons and trims attachment strength   (N), min.  
 
Buckle fastening strength (N), min.  
 
Velcro attachment  
 
i) Peel strength (N/cm), min.  
                – Initial  
                – At 10 000 cycles  
      ii) Sh ear strength (N/ cm2), min .   
               – Initial  
               – At 10 000 cycles   
 
 
10 
110 
 
 
2 
1 
 
10 
5  
Shank  
Accumulated impact strength (J) , min . 
 
Bending modulus (N), min.  
 
Resilience (%), min.   
40 
700 
 
80  
  
xx © UNBS 2016  – All rights reserved  
 ANNEX A:  
(Normative )  
SAMPLING AND CRITERIA FOR CONFORMITY  
A1. DEFINITIONS  
A1.1 Lot — All footwear pairs in a consignment belonging to the same pattern/design and batch of 
manufactured shoes delivered  or imported.  
A1.2 Defect — A fault or failure of a footwear pair to meet the requirements of this standard . 
A1.3 Defective Footwear — A footwear pair with one or more defects as mentioned in this standard . 
A2. SCALE OF SAMPLING  
A2.1 Samples shall be selected and examined for each lot separately for ascertaining  the conformity of the 
footwear to  the requirements of this standard.  
A2.2 Footwear shall be considered to be of different lots if they differ in shape and design.  
A2.3 The number of footwear  pairs to be selected from any lot shall depend on the size of the lot and shall 
be in accordance w ith Columns 1 and 2 of Table A1.  
A3. METHOD OF SELECTION  
A3.1 Footwear to be selected from the lot shall be chosen at random. To ensure randomness the 
procedure in A3.2 shall be used . 
A3.2 When the footwear pairs in a lot are not packed in a number of case s (boxes), the sampling shall be 
as follows:  
Starting from any footwear pair in the lot, count the pairs as 1 , 2, etc up to r and so on in one order.  Every rth 
pair thus counted shall be withdrawn to constitute a sample (r is the integral part of N/n wher e N is the lot size 
and n is the sample size).  This procedure shall be stopped as soon  as the required number of pairs is 
obtained .  
 For example if a sample of 125 pairs is to be selected from a lot of 3,000 pairs , compute r as equal to integral 
part of 3,000/125=24. Starting from any pair, the footwear shall be counted in one order and every 24th pair 
shall be withdrawn . 
A3.3 When the footwear pairs in a lot are packed in different cases ( boxes), a suitable number of boxes 
(not less than 30 per cent of  the total boxes in the lot) shall be first chosen at random.  For each of the boxes 
so chosen, an approximately equal  number of pairs shall be picked up from its different parts so as to obtain 
the required number of pairs.  
For example, if a lot consists of 1,000 pairs of footwear packed in 50 boxes each containing 20 pairs, choose  
more than 15 boxes at random. If it is decided to open 20 boxes, then 4 pairs shall be picked up from different 
parts of each of the 20 boxes to give a total of 80 pairs as  specifi ed in Table 1.   
© UNBS 2016  – All rights reserved  xxi 
 TABLE A1. SCALE OF SAMPLING AND PERMISSIBLE NUMBER OF DEFECTS  
 
NO. OF FOOTWEAR 
PAIRS IN A LOT  
 
  
SAMPLES FOR 
VISUALLY 
OBSERVED 
DEFECTS  
 (PAIRS)   
PERMISSIBLE 
NO. OF 
DEFECTIVES  
 (PAIRS)   
SAMPLE SIZE FOR 
LABORATORY 
TESTING  
 (PAIRS)   
PERMISSIBLE 
NO. OF 
DEFECTIVES  
 (PAIRS)  
(1) (2) (3) (4) (5) 
Up to 50  13 0 2 0 
51 to100  20 1 3 0 
101 to 300  32 1 3 0 
301 to 500  50 2 5 1 
501 to 1000  80 3 6 1 
1001 to 3000  125 5 7 2 
3001 and above  200 7 8 3 
 
A4. All randomly selected footwear pairs (Table A1, Co lumn 2) shall be inspected for visually observed 
defects, i.e.  
i) Difference in shape, design and colour.  
ii) Odd pairing and incorrect size.  
iii) Distorted shapes.  
iv) Faulty jointing and adhesion of sole, heel, toe guard, toe cap and insole.  
v) Insole cut short.  
vi) Broken sti tches and incorrect stitching.  
vii) Missing or defective eyelets/speed hooks or eyeleting/hooking.  
viii) Variations in positioning of eyelets/speed hooks.  
ix) Stiffener not centrally placed.  
x) Unfit lace.  
xi) Finish  not even and unpolished.  
xii) Missing or defective buckles/bucklin g assembly.  
A5. The number of defective footwear pairs shall not exceed the permissible number given in Table  A1, 
Column 3. If, however, the number of defective pairs exceeds the permissible number of defectives, the lot 
shall be rejected.   
xxii © UNBS 2016  – All rights reserved  
 A6. In case the lot has been found satisfactory for visually observed defects, sample pairs for laboratory 
testing (Table A1, Column 4) shall be taken from among those drawn (Table 1A, Column 2). The pairs shall be 
chosen at random and tested for dimensional, physical and  chemical characteristics. If the number of 
defective footwear is less than or equal to the corresponding permissible number of defectives given in Table 
A1, Column 5, the lot shall be declared to have met the requirements of this standard. Otherwise if th e 
defective footwear pairs are more than the corresponding permissible numbers of defectives the lot shall be 
rejected.   
© UNBS 2016  – All rights reserved  xxiii 
 Bibliography  
During the preparation of this standard, reference was made to the following documents:  
[1]  MS 887: 1982 Specification  for spike proof combat boots.  
[2]  IS 2060: 1984 Specification  for gents shoes.  
[3]  SABS 421: 1976 Specification for the production of men’s shoes (good year welted with stitched or 
stuck -on outer soles).  
[4]  SABS 1363: 1999 Specification  for young people’s  shoes (stuck -on and stitch -down constructions).  
[5]  KS 01 -679: 1989 Specification  for sole leather.  
[6]  BATA Shoe Company specifications.  
[7]  KS 08 -893: Part 2: 1993 Specification  for upholstery fabrics Part 2.  Coated fabrics  
Acknowledgement is hereb y made for the assistance obtained from these sources  
 DUS 1654 -2:2016