KENYA STANDARD     DKS 08 -214: PART 2: 2017  
ICS 59.080  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Woven interlinings and linings for apparel        
purposes —Specification  
 
   Part 2:   
 
  Woven linings for Apparel P urposes  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 © KEBS 2017                                                                                                      SECOND  EDITION 2    
                                                                                                                                                                                       
©KEBS 2017— All rights reserved    
TECHNICAL COMMITTEE REPRESENTATION  
 
The following organizations were represented on the Technical Committee:  
 
Moi University, Eldoret - Department of Textile Enginee ring 
Kenya Industrial Research and Development Institute (KIRDI)  
Kenya Association of Manufacturers (KAM)  
Handloom Weavers - Yarn craft weavers  
Handloom Weavers - Abimbola creations  
Kenya Prisons  
Fedix Designs  
Kenya Bureau of Standards — Secretariat  
 
 
 
REVIS ION OF KENYA STANDARDS  
 
In order to keep abreast of progress in industry, Kenya standards shall be regularly reviewed. Suggestions 
for improvement to published standards, addressed to the Managing Director, Kenya Bureau of Standards, 
are welcome.  
 
 
 
 
 
© Ke nya Bureau of Standards, 2017  
Copyright. Users are reminded that by virtue of section 6 of the Copyright Act, Cap. 130 of the laws of Kenya, copyright subs ists in all 
Kenya Standards and except as provided under section 7 of this act, no Kenya Standard pro duced by Kenya Bureau of Standards may 
be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system in any form or transmitted by any means without prior permission in writing from the 
Managing Director.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
ISBN 9966 -19-048-1   DKS 08 -214: PART 2:2017
  
©KEBS 2017  — All rights reserved  KEN YA STANDARD     DKS 08 -214: PART 2 : 2017  
   ICS 59.080  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Woven interlinings and linings for apparel 
purposes —Specification  
 
Part 2: 
  
Woven  linings for apparel purposes  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 DKS 08 -214: PART 2:2017    
  
2                                                                                                      ©KEBS 2017  — All rights  reserved        
 
 
 
KENYA BUREAU OF STANDARDS (KEBS)  
 
Head Office:  P.O. Box 54974, Nairobi -00200 , Tel.: (+254 020) 605490, 602350, Fax: (+254 020) 604031  
E-Mail: info@kebs.org,  Web:http://www.kebs.org   
 
Coast Region     Lake Region          Rift Valley Region  
P.O. Box 99376, Mombasa -80100   P.O. Box 2949, Kisumu -40100        P.O. Box 2138, Nakuru -20100  
Tel.: (+254 041) 229563, 230939/40                Tel.: (+254 057) 23549, 22396        Tel.: (+254 051) 210553, 210555  
Fax: (+254 041) 229448    Fax: (+254 057) 21814  
 
 
P R E F A C E  
 
This Kenya Standard was prepared by the Technical Committee on Woven Fabric s under the guidance of 
the Textile Industry Standards Committee and it is in accordance with the procedures of the Bureau.  
 
lining fabrics are used in waistbands, crutch, waistcoat back, overcoat body and in pocketing of trousers, 
jackets,  ladies wear  etc.  In order to safeguard the interests of consumers, the lining fabrics used in garments  
must meet the requirements of this standard.  
 
This d ocument supersedes KS 214 Part  3  
 
In the preparation of this standard, reference was made to:  
 
BS 4560: 1980  Spec ification for linings in uniform clothing.  
 
 
 
Acknowledgement is made for the assistance received from this source.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   DKS 08 -214: PART 2:2017
  
©KEBS 2017  — All rights reserved   
KENYA STANDARD                                                       DKS 08 -214-2:2017
                                                                                        
 
Woven interlinings and linings for apparel purposes —Specification  
 
Part 2: 
 
Woven linings for apparel purposes  
 
 
1 Scope  
 
This Kenya Standard specifies constructional details and other requiremen ts for woven linings  made from  
any textile fibre or mixtures of fibres  which are suitable for apparel purposes .  
 
2    Normative references  
 
KS ISO 7771: Dimensional  changes of fabrics by cold water immersion.  
       
 KS ISO 3758 : Care  labelling code using  symbols  
 
KS ISO 13934 -1 Determination of maximum force and elongation at maximum force using the strip method
   
KS ISO 3801 : Determination of mass per unit length and mass per unit area  
 
KS ISO 7211 -2 Determination  of number of threads per unit length  
 
KS ISO 105 -D01: Methods  for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to dry cleaning . 
 
KS ISO 105 -C10:  Methods  for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to washing.  
 
KS ISO 105 -E04: Methods  for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to perspiration.  
 
KS 08 -212: Definitions  of general terms, basic weaves and plans for drafting, denting and lifting.  
 
KS ISO  105-D02: Methods  for determination of colour fastness of textile material to rubbing  
   Part 1: Dry and wet method.  
 
KS ISO 22198:  Determination of width and length of textile fabrics  
 
3          Definitions  
 
For the purpose of this standard, the following  definitions shall apply ; 
 
3.1 Lining - A fabric which is inserted into garments to  provide a neat inside finish and conceal interfacing, 
padding, the raw edges of seams,  and other construction details  
 
3.2 Recommended end uses for the specified f abrics are  given in Appendix A.  
 
4 Requirements  
 
4.1 Defects  — When visually examined, the cloth shall be reasonably free from  major weaving defects 
like slubs,torn selvedges,floats,holes,mis -picks and uneven dyeing.   
 DKS 08 -214: PART 2:2017    
  
4                                                                                                      ©KEBS 2017  — All rights  reserved       4.2 Construction  — The cloth shall be uniformly  constructed and shall conform to the requirements 
of Table 1.  
        
Fabric  properties –The minimum requirements for  linings shall  be as specified in Table 1.  
 
4.3 Colour Fastness  — The colour fastness shall comply with the requirements of Table 2.  
             Mass per unit area -the mass per unit area of the  
3.4 Width  — The width of each piece under test shall not vary at any place by more than 1 per cent 
below or 2 per cent above the declared or marked width.  This shall be determined in accordance 
with KS ISO 22198 . 
 
3.5 Length  — The length of each piece shall not be less than  1% of the value declared.  This shall be 
determined in accordance with KS ISO 22198  
  
3.6  Dimensional Change  — The maximum dimensional change (relaxation or s hrinkage) shall be ±  
2 per cent . 
 
 This shall be determined in accordance with KS IS0 7771  
 
3.7          Restricted colorants  
The lining fabric when tested by KS ISO 2436 2 Par t 1 and 3 shall not  contain any of the listed 
restricted colorants and any of the carc inogenic dyes tuffs listed in KS ISO 16373 -2 and 3  
 
4. Inspection  
 
4.1 The cloth shall be inspected for major and minor defects ( see Appendix B) and shall be considered 
as satisfactory  if the following conditions are met:  
 
 Major defects   - Nil 
 
 Minor defects   - 5 per 100 m.  
 
4.2 All the defects shall be flagged by appropriate coloured threads on one side of the selvedges.  
 
Table 1 -Requirements of  woven linings  
 
 
CHARACTERISTIC  LININGS  
  
 
MINIMUM REQUIREMENTS  
  
TEST METHOD  
 
 
Mass in  g/m2  
  
65  
KS ISO 3801  
 
 
Brea king 
strength ,N  warp  310  
KS ISO 13934 -1 
 weft 282 
 
Table 2 - Colour fastness requirements of lining  
 
AGENCY  NUMERICAL RATING  TEST METHOD  
Change in Colour  Staining  
 
(a)    Drycleaning  
 
(b)    Perspiration (acid and  
alkali)  
  
4 
 
 
4 
  
4 
 
 
4 
  
 KS ISO 105 -D01 
 
 
KS ISO 105 -E04 
   DKS 08 -214: PART 2:2017
  
©KEBS 2017  — All rights reserved  (c)    Rubbing  
        
        (i)   Dry  
 
        (ii)  Wet  
 
 
(d)    Washing  
 
Bleaching( 
Hypochlorite)  
         
Light  
 
 
  
 
4 
 
4 
 
 
4 
 
 
4 
 
 
4  
 
4 
 
4 
 
 
4 
 
 
4 
 
 
- 
  
 
KS  ISO 105 -D02 
 
 
 
 
KS ISO 105 -C10 
 
 
KS ISO 105 -N01 
 
 
KS ISO 105 -B02 
 
 
 
5. Marking and labelling  
 
Fabrics shall be supplied with the following information on the piece:  
 
a. Manufacturer’s name or  trade name;  
b. Length of the roll packed;  
c. Country of origin  
d. Fiber composition  
e. Care instructions according to KS ISO 3758  
 
7. PACKING  
 
The cloth shall be packed in continuous length and in accordance with KS 2659  
 
8. PACKAGING  
 
The rolls ( see  Clause 7) shall be wrapped wi th low density ployethylene film.  A suitable number of 
rolls shall be arranged in bundles and secured to form a pack.  A suitable number of such packs 
shall then be wrapped in a suitable waterproof packing material.  
 
9. SAMPLING  
 
A sample shall be taken o f sufficient size to provide the required test specimens from each batch or 
from at least every 5 000 m, whichever is the more frequent.  
 
10. TEST SPECIMENS  
 
The test and specimens shall be taken at points as widely dispersed as possible throughout the 
available lining and no two specimens used for determination of a particular property shall contain 
the same warp and weft yarns.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 DKS 08 -214: PART 2:2017    
  
6                                                                                                      ©KEBS 2017  — All rights  reserved        
 
A P P E N D I X   A  
 
A1. RECOMMENDED END USES  
 
It is recommended that the fabrics specified in this standard be u sed for linings in men’s andboy’s 
apparel and uniform clothing in accordance with Table 3.  
 
TABLE 3. RECOMMENDED END USES  
 
 
ITEM  USE RECOMMENDED FABRIC 
(REFERENCE NUMBER)  
Linings  Body and sleeves  
Crutch  
Waistbands  L1, L2, L4, L5, L6, L9  
L4, L5, L6  
L4, L5 , L6, L10  
Detachable Liners   L1, L2, L4.  
Linings specifically 
for men’s 
apparel/uniforms  Body and sleeves  
Waistcoat back  
Overcoat body  
Raincoat*  L5, L6, L9  
L5, L6, L9  
L7 
L5 
Linings specifically 
for women’s 
apparel/uniforms  Skirt,dresses  
Body and sleeves  
Raincoat*  L5, L6  
L5, L6, L9  
L5 
Pocketing  Jackets and waistcoats  
Trousers  L3, L4, L5, L6, L8  
L5, L4, L5, L6, L8, L10  
 
 
  *Use water repellent treated fabrics only.  
 
 
 
A P P E N D I X   B  
 
(CLAUSE 4.1)  
 
CATEGORIZATION OF DEFECTS (SEE KS 08 -207: 1978)  
 
B1. MAJOR DEFECTS  
 
B1.1  One or more ends missing in the body of the material throughout its length, or more than one end 
missing at a place and running over 60 cm, prominently noticeable double ends running throughout.  
 
B1.2  Undressed snarls noticeable over  a length exceeding 5 per cent of the length of the piece.  
 
B1.3  Smash definitely rupturing the texture of the fabric.  
 
B1.4  Hole, cut or tear.  
 
B1.5  Reed marks prominently over a length exceeding 5 per cent of the length of the piece.  
B1.6  Noticeable warp  or weft float in the body of the fabric.  
 
B1.7  Gout due to foreign matter usually lint or waste woven into the fabric.  
 
B1.8  Significant shading or listing in fabrics having gradual change in tone or depth of shade (excluding 
selvedge or border running pa rallel to the selvedge).  
 
                                                 
 Glossary of textile terms pertaining to defects in fabrics.    DKS 08 -214: PART 2:2017
  
©KEBS 2017  — All rights reserved  B1.9  Colour flacks in dyed linings.  
 
B1.10  Blurred or dark patch.  
 
B1.11  Patch or streaky or uneven dyeing.  
 
B1.12  Dye bar.  
 
B2. MINOR DEFECTS  
 
B2.1  Weft crack of more than one missing pick across the width of fabric.  
 
B2.2  Weft b ar due to the difference in raw material, count, twist, colour, shade or pick spacing of adjacent 
groups of weft yarns.  
 
B2.3  More than two adjacent ends running parallel or broken or missing and extending beyond 10 cm.  
 
B2.4  Noticeable oil or other stain in the fabric.  
 
B2.5  Oily weft in the fabric not more than 2 cm spread along the width.  
 
B2.6  Prominently noticeable slub.