PUBLIC REVIEW DRAFT DRAFT UGANDA STANDARD  
  DUS DEAS 224 
First  Edition  
2016-mm-dd 
 
 Reference number  
DUS DEAS 224: 2016 
© UNBS 201 6 
  
Cotton khanga — Specification  
 PUBLIC REVIEW DRAFTDUS DEAS 224: 2016 
ii                © UNBS  2016  - All rights reserved 
 Compliance with this standard does not, of itself confer immunity from legal obligations  
A Uganda Standard does not purport to include all necessary provisions of a contract. Users are 
responsible for its correct application  
© UNBS 2016 
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, no part of this publication may be reproduced or utilised in any 
form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and microfilm, without prior written 
permission from UNBS. 
Requests for permission to reproduce this document should be addressed to 
The Executive Director 
Uganda National Bureau of Standards 
P.O. Box 6329 
Kampala 
Uganda 
Tel: 256 417 333 2 50/1/2/3 
Fax: 256 414 286 123 
E-mail: info@unbs.go.ug  
Web: www.unbs.go.ug  
 PUBLIC REVIEW DRAFTDUS DEAS 224:2016 
© UNBS  2016 - All rights reserved                iii National foreword 
Uganda National Bureau of Standards (UNBS) is a parastatal under the Ministry of Trade, Industry and 
Cooperatives established under Cap 327, of the Laws of Uganda, as amended.  UNBS is mandated to co-
ordinate the elaboration of standards and is  
(a) a member of International Organisation for Standardisation (ISO) and  
(b) a contact point for the WHO/FAO Codex Alimentarius Commission on Food Standards, and  
(c) the National Enquiry Point on TBT Agreement of the World Trade Organisation (WTO). 
The work of preparing Uganda Standards is carried out through Technical Committees. A Technical 
Committee is established to deliberate on standards in a given field or area and consists of representatives of 
consumers, traders, academicians, manufacturers, government and other stakeholders. 
Draft Uganda Standards adopted by the Technical Committee are widely circulated to stakeholders and the 
general public for comments. The committee reviews the comments before recommending the draft standards 
for approval and declaration as Uganda Standards by the National Standards Council.  
This Draft Uganda Standard, DUS DEAS 224: 2016, Cotton khanga - Specification,  is identical with  and has 
been reproduced from a Draft East African Standard , DEAS 224: 2016, Cotton khanga - Specification,  and is 
being proposed for adoption as a Uganda Standard. 
This standard cancels and replaces US 424:2003 , Cotton khanga - Specification , which has been technically 
revised.  
This standard was developed by the Subcommittee on Textiles and textile products (SC 1) under the Textiles, 
leather, paper and related products’ Standards Technical Committee (UNBS/TC 7).  
Wherever the words, “ East Afric an Standard" appear, they should be replaced by "Uganda Standard." 
 
   DEAS 224: 2016  
ICS ICS 59.080  
© EA C 2016                                                                                                                          Second  Edition 2016   
 
DRAFT EAST AFRICAN STANDARD  
Cotton K hanga — Specification  
EAST AFRICAN COMMUNITY  EAS 224: 2016  
ii © EAC  2016  – All rights reserved  
 Copyright notice  
This EAC document is copyright -protected by EAC. While the reproduction of this document by 
participants in the EAC standards development process is permitte d without prior permission from EAC, 
neither this document nor any extract from it may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form for 
any other purpose without prior written permission from EAC.  
Requests for permission to reproduce this document for the purpose of selling it should be addressed 
as shown below or to EAC’s member body in the country of the requester:  
© East African Community 2016  — All rights reserved  
East African Community   
P.O.Box 1096  
Arusha  
Tanzania  
Tel: 255 27 2504253/8  
Fax: 255 27  2504481/2504255  
E-mail: eac@eachq.org  
       Web: www.eac -quality.net  
Reproduction for sales purposes may be subject to royalty payments or a licensing agreement. 
Violators may be persecuted  EAS 224: 2016  
© EAC 2016  – All rights reserved  iii 
 Contents  Page 
Foreword  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................  iv 
1 Scope  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ......................  1 
2 Normative references  ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................  1 
3 Terms and definitions  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........................  1 
3 Requirements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .........  2 
3.1 Yarn  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .........................  2 
3.2 Fabric  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ......................  2 
3.3 Construction  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..........  2 
3.4 Grading  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................  3 
3.5 colourfastness  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ....... 3 
4 Marking  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................  4 
4.1 Each piece  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..............  4 
4.2 Each package  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .........  4 
5 Packaging  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...............  4 
6 Sampling  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................  4 
6.1 Lot ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........................  4 
Annex  A (normative)  Colour difference measurement by colorimetric method  ................................ .........  6 
Bibliography  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ........................  7 
 EAS 224: 2016  
iv © EAC  2016  – All rights reserved  
 Foreword  
Devel opment of the East African Standards has been necessitated by the need for harmonizing requirements 
governing quality of products and services in the East African Community. It is envisaged that through 
harmonized standardization, trade barriers that are e ncountered when goods and services are exchanged 
within the Community will be removed.  
In order to achieve this objective, the Community established an East African Standards Committee mandated 
to develop and issue East African Standards.   
The Committee i s composed of representatives of the National Standards Bodies in Partner States, together 
with the representatives from the private sectors and consumer organizations. Draft East African Standards 
are circulated to stakeholders through the National Standa rds Bodies in the Partner States. The comments 
received are discussed and incorporated before finalization of standards, in accordance with the procedures 
of the Community.  
East African Standards are subject to review, to keep pace with technological advan ces. Users of the East 
African Standards are therefore expected to ensure that they always have the latest versions of the standards 
they are implementing .  
EAS 224 was prepared by Technical Committee EAS/TC 061, Textiles and Textile Products . 
 
This second  edition cancels and replaces the first edition (EAS  224:2001), which has been technically revised  
 DRAFT EAST AFRICAN STANDARD  DEAS 224:2016  
 
© EAC 2016  – All rights reserved  1 
 Cotton K hanga — Specification  
1 Scope  
This Draft East African Standard specifies the requirements , sampling  and test methods for cotton khanga . 
2 Normative  references  
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated 
references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced 
document (including any amendments) ap plies.  
EAS 155 -1, Cotton ya rns ― Specification — Part 1: Grading by appearance  
ISO 3758: Textiles -- Care labelling code using symbols  
ISO 5081: Textiles -- Woven fabrics -- Determination of breaking strength and elongation (Strip method)  
ISO 3801:  Textiles -- Woven fabrics -- Deter mination of mass per unit length and mass per unit area  
EAS 248, Methods for determination of threads per centimetre in woven fabrics  
ISO 105 -B01: Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part B01: Colour fastness to light: Daylight . 
EAS 237, Methods for de termination of colour fastness of textile materials to washing  
EAS 239 , Method for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to rubbing  Part 1: Dry and wet 
method  
ISO 3071: Textiles -- Determination of pH of aqueous extract  
EAS 242, Dimension al changes of fabrics by cold water immersion  
ISO 13937 -1 Textiles -- Tear properties of fabrics -- Part 1: Determination of tear force using ballistic 
pendulum method (Elmendorf)  
EAS 253 -1, Code of practice for grading of textile materials — Part 1: Fabri cs  
3 Terms and definitions  
For the purposes of this standard, the following terms and definitions shall apply  
2.1 
Khanga  
a plain weave light weight piece of soft cotton fabric, printed with fast colours, visible on both sides with 
distinct border line se parating one piece from the adjacent piece.  
NOTE  The khanga normally has a written message. See Figure 1   
2 © EAC  2016  – All rights reserved  
 2.2 
Dressing materials  
materials applied to yarns during the warp preparation such as size, stiffening or softening agents, etc.  
2.3 
Filling material s 
Non-substantive and generally insoluble materials, such as China clay, gypsum, etc. added to fabric together 
with starches or gums during finishing to add weight or to modify the appearance and handle of the fabrics.   
2.4 
Selvedges  
edge of woven fabric finished so as to prevent raveling often in a narrow tape effect different from the body of 
the fabric  
3 Requirements  
 3.1 Yarn  
Cotton yarn used in the manufacture of the fabric shall comply with the requirements of EAS 155 -1.  
3.2 Fabric  
3.2.1 The fabric used for the manufacture of  khanga shall be woven in plain weave.  
3.2.2 The selvedges shall be firm and well woven.  
3.2.3 The fabric shall bear printed borders on all sides.  
3.3 Prints  on the fabric  
The prints shall look the same or nearly the same on b oth sides (front and back) of the khanga. When tested 
in accordance with Annex A, the colour matching shall not exceed E 3. The prints shall be free from printing 
defects such as uneven spread of prints paste, blurr and inclination.   
3.3 Construction  
Cotton khanga shall comply with the constructional requirements specified in Table 1 when tested in 
accordance with the methods specified therein.  
Table 1  Constructional details and breaking load of khanga  
 
Characteristics  Requirements  Method of test  
a) Mas s in g/m2 (min.)  90 ISO 3801  
b) Breaking load in N on 50 mm  200 mm strips (min.):    
Warp  
Weft 400 
200 ISO 13934  
c) Tearing strength , N   
Warp  30 ISO 13937 -1  
© EAC 2016  – All rights reserved  3 
 Weft 30 
* Titles of standards referred to are listed on the last page.  
 
3.4 Grading  
3.4.1  The khanga shall be graded in accordance with EAS 253 -1. 
3.4.2  In addition, khangas which do not meet the E 3 requirement in 3.2.4 shall not be graded as Grade A.  
   
3.5 colourfastness  
The colour of the printed cloth shall be fast to agencies in accordan ce with the requirements specified in Table 
2. 
Table 2  Colour fastness requirements  
 
AGENCY  NUMERICAL RATING (MIN)  METHOD OF TEST  
Light  5 EAS 243  
Washing:  
Colour change  
Staining   
4 to 5   
EAS 237  
 
Rubbing  
Dry 
Wet  
4 to 5   
EAS 239 Part 1  
 
 
Table 3  Other requirements of khanga  
Characteristic  Requirements  Method of test  
pH value  6 to 8  EAS 261  
Shrinkage or  elongation (%) , max.  
Warp  
Weft  
 
±1.5 
±5  
 
EAS 242  
Size in cm, min.:  
Length  
Width   
165 
115  
Use a tape measure  
NOTE 1  Length and width specified,  relate to the specific state of finish in which the khanga is delivered.  
NOTE 2  The figure for length quoted above is for one piece of khanga, but the figure should be doubled to give 
requirement for a pair of khanga.   
4 © EAC  2016  – All rights reserved  
 4 Marking  
4.1 Each piece 
Each khanga  shall be printed with the following:  
a) Name of the manufacturer or registered trademark.  
b) Country of origin.  
c) Length and width in centimetres.  
d) Grade in accordance with EAS 253 -1 
4.2 Each package  
Each package  of khanga shall be marked with the following:  
a) Name of the manufacturer or registered trademark.  
b) The inscription 'Cotton Khanga'.  
c) Care instructions in accordance with ISO 3758 .  
d) Country of origin.  
e) Length and width in centimetres.  
5 Packaging  
The khanga shall be securely packed to avoid soiling in s torage as well as during transportation.  
6 Sampling  
6.1 Lot 
6.1.1  The quantity of khanga of the same type and quality delivered to one buyer against one dispatch 
note shall constitute a lot.  
6.1.2  The conformity of the lot to the requirements of this stand ard shall be determined on the basis of 
tests carried out on the samples selected from the lot.  
6.1.3  Unless otherwise agreed upon between the buyer and the manufacturer, the number of pieces to be 
selected at random from a lot shall be in accordance with Table 4.  
Table 4: Sampling size and permissible number of non -conforming pieces  
 
Number of pieces  
in the lot  Sample size (No. of 
pieces to be selected)  Permissible no. Non -
conforming pieces  Sub-sample size (No. of 
pieces to be selected )  
 
Up   to 25   
3  
0  
2  
© EAC 2016  – All rights reserved  5 
 26   to 50  
51   to 150  
151 to  300  
301 to  500  
501  to 1000  
1000 and above  5 
8 
13 
20 
32 
50 0 
0 
1 
1 
2 
3 2 
3 
3 
5 
5 
8 
 
Note  assistance with sampling plans can b e obtained from ISO 2859 -1 and ISO 3951.  
 
  
6 © EAC  2016  – All rights reserved  
 Annex  A 
(normative)  
 
Colour difference measurement by colorimetric method  
A.1 Area of application  
 
Colour difference measurements, for example difference in matchings between two pieces of fabrics or colour 
difference between the upper side and the underside of a fabric can be determined by use of a color imeter to 
which a computer is attached and the results are expressed in values of Delta E ( E)  
 
A.2 Apparatus  
 colorimeter – E1 
 computer  
 
A.3 Procedure  
Set the equipments by including the specular components:  
 UV light  
 10° standard observer (CIE) angle  
 small/large aperture depending on the specimen sizes  
 
Place your standard specimen on the aperture and read the tristimulus values X, Y and Z.  
 
Place your standard specimen on the aperture and read the tristimulus values. The computer also 
automatically gives the E value apart from other results.  
 
NOTE  Measurements can be done by use of the following standard sources of light and the relevant standard reported.  
 
1. Philips TL 84 referred to cool white fluorescent (CWF) lamp. (Approximately 400 nm.)  
 
2. D 65 Artificial Daylight (280 nm to 700 nm)  
 
3. Tungsten lamp. (Approximately 300 nm)  
 
Precautions   
In case of very light fabrics, fold them several times to prevent external light interference.   
© EAC 2016  – All rights reserved  7 
 Bibliography  
[2] TZS 165: 2009, Textile – Cotton khanga - specification  
 [3]  
 [4]  
 EAS 224: 2016    
 
© EAC 2016  – All rights reserved