tbs             TDC2 (5631 )P3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Draft  
Tanzania Standard  
Textiles – Cotton Khanga – Specification s 
 
(Second edition)  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
TANZANIA BUREAU OF STANDARDS  
 
 
1 
 0. FOREWORD  
 
0.1. In view of the need to help Cotton Khanga  producers in manufacturing of a defined quality , it has 
been felt necessary to prepare a standard . Moreover , due to technological advancement the standard has 
been revised to bring its requirements in alignment with the current science, technology, practice and 
expertise.  
 
0.2. The development of this Draft Tanzania Standard is based on the current practices and requirements 
of the industries and relevant authorities. This Draft Tanzania Standard is the seco nd revision which has 
been technically revised, where; its foreword and other portions have been slight ly improved.  
 
0.3. In Table 1, Particulars of Cotton Khanga  (mass per unit area) there being no tolerance on both 
negative and positive side on these requirements that, it cancels tolerance of  ±5 and makes it minimum 
value , this is to avoid flexibility to industry to adjust construction of the fabric dependin g upon market 
demands, also the term ‘‘Cover factor’’ have been added on Clause 3 as terminology  to make it clear to 
user of this Second revision.  
 
0.4. In the preparation for reviewing this Draft Tanzania Standard Tanzania Standard, reference was 
made to the following:  
 
Local company s pecifications  
 
IS 1095: 2002, Specification for handloom cotton dress materials, bleached, dyed, printed, striped, 
or checked,  published by the Bureau of Indian Standards.  
 
This second edition cancels and replaces the first edition which was developed in year  – 2009 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
2 
 Tanzania Bureau of Standards  
Draft Tanzania Standard       TDC2 (5631 )P2 
Textiles – Cotton  Khanga – Specification s 
 
1. SCOPE  
 
This Draft Tanzania Standard describes the constructional details and oth er particulars of varieties of 
Cotton K hanga.  
 
The Draft  Tanzania S tandard does not specify the type of finish, general appearance, luster and feel of 
cloth nor does it specify colour combinations in printed cloth.  
 
2. NORMATIVE REFERENCES  
 
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated 
refere nces, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced 
document (including any amendments) applies:  
 
TZS 4:  Rounding off numerical values . 
 
TZS 20:  Textiles – Woven fabrics – Determination of number of threads per centimeter . 
 
TZS 21:  Textiles – Woven or K nitted fabrics – Determination of mass per unit length and per unit 
area. 
 
TZS 22:  Textiles – Woven fabrics – Determination of breaking load and extension of woven 
fabrics . 
 
TZS 23:  Textiles – Test for colour f astness to light: Xenon arc . 
 
TZS 26:  Textiles – Determination of conductivity, pH, water soluble matter, chloride and sulphate 
in aqueous extracts . 
 
TZS 40:  Textiles – Test for colour fastness to light – Daylight . 
 
TZS 44:  Textiles – Woven or knitted fabrics – Determination of length and width . 
 
TZS 137:  Textiles – Determination of dimensional changes of woven and knitted fabrics and 
garments – Machine method . 
 
TZS 138:  Textiles – test for colour fastness to rubbing . 
 
TZS 139:  Textiles – Determination of linear density of yarn removed from fabric free from added 
matter . 
 
TZS 167:  Textiles – Test for colour fastness to washing – Test 3 . 
 
TZS 280:  Textiles – Tests for colour fastness – colour fastness to perspiration . 
 
 
 
 
  
3 
 3. TERMS AND DEFINITIONS  
 
For the purpose of this Draft Tanzania Standard the following terms and definitions shall apply:  
 
3.1 Khanga  
plain w oven , light -weight cotton piece fabric, the fabric is printed with fast colours. The prints are 
generally completely visible on both sides.  
Khanga bear distinct border lines separating one piece from adjacent piece of Khanga . The design is 
symmetrical and generally may carry a center  motif (mji), a captioned message below the center  motif.  
 
3.2 Dressing materials  
materials applied to yarns du ring warp preparation such as size, sti ffening or softening agents . 
 
3.3 Filling material  
non-substantive and generally insoluble materials,  such as china clay, gypsum , added to fabric together 
with starches or gums during finishing to add weight or to mod ify the appearance and handle of the 
fabrics.  
 
3.4 Cover Factor  
number that indicates the extent to which the area of a fabric is covered by one set of threads. For any 
woven fabric, there are two cover factors: a warp cover factor and a weft cover factor.  
 
4. MANUFACTURE  
 
4.1 Yarn  
Cotton yarn used in the manufacture of the cloth shall be of the quality required to ensure that the cloth 
complies with the requirements of this  Draft Tanzania Standard. It shall be satisfactory in evenness and 
reasonably free from neps and spinning defects.  
 
4.2 Cloth  
The cloth used for manufacture of Khanga  shall be woven in plain weave. The selvedges shall be firm 
and well woven or conventional.  
 
4.2.1  The cloth shall be sheared and singed.  
 
4.2.2  The cloth shall be printed t o suitable shades and colours and may carry printed message as agreed 
upon between the buyer and the manufacturer. It shall bear printed border lines.  
 
4.2.3  The prints shall be clearly visible on both sides of the Khanga  and shall be free from printing de fects 
such as uneven spread of prints pastes , blur and inclination.  
 
4.2.4  The Khanga  shall be free from dressing and filling materials and from substances liable to cause 
subsequent tendering.  
 
4.2.5  The Khanga  when visually examined shall be reasonably f ree from spinning, weaving and 
processing defects.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
4 
 5. REQUIREMENTS  
5.1 Table 1 – Particulars of cotton Khanga  
 
Characteristics   
Requirements   
Methods of test  
Cover Factor ( K)  See note 1  
Warp  
Weft 12.2±0.5 
9.1±0.5   
Mass per unit area, g/m2 min. 95 TZS 21: (see clause  2) 
Breaking load, N, min.  
Warp way  
Weft way   
310 
260 See note 2  
 
TZS 22: (see clause  2) 
 
Notes : 
1) K=cn√Nt 
 Where;  K is the cover factor  
  c is the constant for tex = 0.04126  
  n is the number of threads per 2.54 centimeter  
  Nt   is the Tex number of a yarn  
 2) Mass and breaking load specified, relate to the specific state of finish in which the Khanga  is delivered.  
 
5.2 Colour fastness  
 
5.2.1  The colour of the printed cloth shall be fast to agencies in accordance with  the requirements 
specified in T able 2, when tested by the relevant methods.  
 
5.2.2. Other requirements of Khanga  shall be as given in T able 3.  
 
Table 2 – Colour fastness requirements  
Fastness to:  Numerical rating  Method of test  
Light  
 
Washing  
 
Rubbing  
           Dry  
           Wet  
 
Perspiration  4 or better  
 
4 or better  
 
 
4 or better  
3 or better  
 
4 or better  TZS 23 : 
TZS 40 : 
TZS 167 :                       
                                     Clause 2  
TZS 138 : 
 
 TZS 280:  
 
 
Table 3 – Other requirements of Khanga  
Characteristics  Requirements  Method of test  
pH value  
Shrinkage or elongation, per cent, max  
Length, cm,  min. 
Width, cm, min. 
Tolerance % 
 
Dye properties  6.0 to 8.5  
± 5 
165 
116 see notes 1 and 2  
±1 
 
None carcinogenic  
None allergic  TZS 26 : 
TZS 137 :            Clause 2  
TZS 44 : 
 
 
 
TZS 2007 -2: 
 
 
 
Note :  
5 
 Length and width specified, relate to the specific stat e of finish in which the Khanga  is delivered  in the 
laboratory for testing .  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Figure 1 – Khanga design with a centre motif ( mji) 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Figure 2 – Khanga design with center stripes motif ( Mkeka ) 
  
 
  
6 
  
 
Notes:  
 (1) See T able 3 for measurements required.  
 (2) Space at the bottom sa lvage for marking.  
 
Notes : 
1) Length and width specified, related to the specific state of finish in which the Khanga  is delivered . 
2) The figure for length quoted above is for one piece of Khanga , but the figure may be doubled to give 
requirement for a pair of Khanga . 
 
 
6. MARKING  
 
6.1 Each piece of Khanga  shall be marked with the following:  
 
a)  Description of the material, i.e. 100 % cotton , 
b) Manufacturer’s name or reference (initials or trade mark) and if require d, supplier’s name or 
reference and  
c)  Design number.  
 
6.2 The Khanga  may also be marked with the tbs Standards Mark of Quality.  
 
NOTE –Information regarding the issuance of license  to use the tbs Standard Mark of Quality may be 
obtained from TBS offices.  
 
7. PACKING  
The cloth shall be packed in bales or cases in conformity with procedure agreed upon between the buyer 
and the manufacturer.  
 
8. SAMPLING  
 
8.1 Lot  
 
The quantity of Khanga  of the same type and quality delivered to one buyer against one dispatch note 
shall constitute a lot.  
 
8.2 The conformity of the lot to the requirements of this Draft Tanzania Standard shall be determined on 
the basis of tests carried out on the samples selected from the lot.  
 
8.3 Unless otherwise agreed upon between the buyer and the manufacturer, the number of pieces to be 
selected at random from a l ot shall be in accordance with T able 4.  
Table 4 – Sampling size and permissible number of non -conforming pieces  
Number of pieces  
in the lot  Sample size (No. of 
pieces to be 
selected)  Permissible no. Non -
conforming pieces  Sub-sample size (No. of 
pieces to be selected)  
Up   to 25  
26   to 50  
51   to 150  
151 to 300  
301 to 500  
501 to  1000  
1000 and above  3 
5 
8 
13 
20 
32 
50 0 
0 
0 
1 
1 
2 
3 2 
2 
3 
3 
5 
5 
8 
  
7 
 8.4   The number of samples to be drawn and the criteria for conformity of the material for various 
characteristi cs shall be in accordance with T able 5 . 
Table 5  – Criteria for conformity  
 
Characteristics  Number of samples  Criteria for conformity  
Ends, picks, Mass, length width and 
Visual inspection  According to col. 4 of 
Table 4  Number of non -conformity 
pieces shall not exceed the 
correspon ding number 
given in col. 3 of T able 4  
Dimensional change, pH value,           
Colour fastness and Breaking load.  According to col. 4 of 
Table 4  All pieces shall meet the 
requirement.