tbs                                                                                     TDC11  ( 5621  ) P3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Draft Tanzania Standard  
Leather - Leather for Garments – Performance Requirements  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
TANZANIA BUREAU OF STANDARDS  
 
 
1 
 TANZANIA BU REAU OF STANDARDS         TDC11 ( 5621 ) P3 
 
Draft Tanzania  Standards   
Leather - Leather for Garments – Performance requirements  
 
0 Foreword  
0.1 This Draft  Tanzania standard is intended to provide technical assistance to leather industry in 
production of  leather for garments . It is expected  that this  Draft Tanzania  standard would greatly help 
boost the production of quality leather for garments  with high per formance which will help  boost   export 
of leather garments  
0.2 In preparation of this Draft Tanzania Standard, assistance was derived from  IS 12718:1989 – leather 
for garments and ISO 14931:2015 (E) – leather – Guide to the selection of leather for apparel (excluding 
furs) 
0.3 For the purpose of deciding whether a particular requirement of this  Draft Tanzania Standard is 
complied with the final  value, observed or calculated, expressing the result of a test or analysis  shall be 
rounded off in accordan ce with TZS 4:2009. The number of significant places retained in the rounded off 
value should be the same as that of the specified value in this Draft Tanzania Standard.  
1 Scope  
This Draft Tanzania S tandard prescribes the requirements for leathers to be used in the manufacture of 
garments  which include  men’s, women’s and children’s garments made from leather. The leather 
garments  may be lined or unlined.  It is applicable to suede leather, grain leathe r, and wool sheep skins 
but excludes furs . 
2 References  
2.1 For the purpose of this Draft Tanzania Standard, the following references shall apply:  
 a) TZS 4: 2009 rounding  of numerical values . 
 b) TZS 190: 2013 Leather , methods of sampling . 
 c) TZS 211  Leather, Determination of colour fastness to – and – fro rubbing (wet  and dry) . 
 d) IS 6191: Methods of micro – biological colour fastness and microscopical tests for leather.  
 e) TZS 208  Leather, Determination of the tear strength . 
 f) TZS 206 Leather, Determination of flexing endurance . 
 g) TZS 199  Leather, Determination of pH and difference figure of an aqueous extract . 
  
2 
 3 Terminolog y 
For the purpose of this Draft Tanzania S tandard, the definitions given in TZS 188: 2013  and the following 
shall apply.  
3.1 Cold Crack Temperature  
The highest temperature at which the finish of leather  will crack when the  leather is folded quickly once  
grain outwards.  
3.2 Aniline leather  
A type of leather dyed exclusively with soluble dyes without covering the surface with topcoat paint or 
insoluble pigments . 
4 Material Requirements  
4.1 Leather  
 
a) The leather shall have been tanned with either organic or inorganic tanning agent.  
b) The colour and finish of the leather shall be an acceptable match to the colour and finish.  
c) The leather shall be well tanned and of an acceptable quality. It shall be free from defects that affect 
its appearance or that may affect its serviceability (or both); it shall not be pipy or loose grained and it 
shall be well fleshed and free flay marks.  
d) When leather is tested according to the relevant methods of test, the leather shall conform to the 
requirement specified in Table 1 and Table 2.  
4.2 Threads  
Sewing threads shall be glace cotton, linen, polyester or polyamide, or a polyester and cotton core – spun 
thread and shall comply with the relevant requirements of TZS 1425 and TZS 1092. The colour shall be 
uniform and, unless a contrasting seam is an intended feature, shall be an acceptable m atch to that of the 
component with the threads  used.  
Note: Syn thetic thread is much stronger than cotton and does not absorb moisture so readily,  
4.3 Adhesives  
 
The adhesive used shall in all cases be compatible with the materials with which they are used and shall 
be capable for producing an adequate bond between the co mponents concerned. Adhesive plays a 
dominant role in the fabrication of leather joints and testing of emblem. Invariably, the closing of joints is 
first secured by adhesives and later by means of stitching.  
 
4.4 Grindery and Hardware  
These are known as metal grindery or hardware and some of the embellishments and fittings are also 
grouped in this category. All functional or decorative metal components, shall be of an intrinsically 
corrosion resistant or shall have been so coated as to render them resistant to corrosion. When plastics 
accessories have been coated they show no sign of cracks or pit marks. All accessories shall be of an 
acceptable design and of adequate size and strength for their intended function.   
3 
 4.5 Closure fittings  
 
Closu re fittings or clasps shall be of acceptable design.  
 
4.6 Zip Fasteners  
 
The zip fasteners should be duly tested as per given in TZS 1136: 2010, Zippers specifications.  
 
5 Characteristics, test methods and recommended values  
Table 1 and Table 2 show the charac teristics, test methods, and recommended values for different types 
of leather intended for apparel. The essential characteristics (Table 1) shall be taken all into account even 
if they can have different relative weight in the process of evaluation relati ve to use. The subsidiary 
characteristics (Table 2) shall be agreed by the parties concerned according to the intended use of the 
leather.  
Table 1. Essential characteristics, recommended values, and test methods for 
apparel leather.  
Leather 
characteristics  Recommended values  Test 
methods  
Tear strength, min  20 TZS208  
Coating thickness , max  0.15mm  TZS 205   
Colour fastness to and fro 
rubbing  Change of colour and staining of the felt pad to be 
assessed for aniline, nubuck or suede:  
- Dry felt 20 cycles ≥3 grey  scale  
- Weft felt 10 cycles ≥3 grey scale  
- Wet with perspiration solution 10 cycle ≥3 
grey scale  TZS 211  
Colour fastness to dry 
cleaning , grey scale  3 or better  
No finish lost (no refatting)  Refer to Annex 
B 
Flexing resistance , min  Aniline (non – pigmented finish), 20 000 cycl es 
leather (pigmented finish), 50 000 cycles  TZS206:1984  
pH and ∆pH, min  3.2 
If the pH value is below 4, ∆pH shall be ≤ 0.7  TZS199   
Dimensional stability to dry 
cleaning, Max  
a) Maximum area 
shrinkage  
b) Maximum area  
extension   
 
6 
 
3 Refer to An nex 
A  
Water repellency  
 The leather shall not show any sign of stain or spot.  Refer to Annex 
F 
  
4 
 *The dimensional changes allowed do not imply that garments in wear will have this tolerance after dry cleaning. 
Experiments have shown that leathers giving this degree of area change in the test when processed as garments by 
normal commercial procedures with re – oiling can be restored to their original dimensions.  
Table 2 – Subsidiary characteristics, recommended values and t est methods for 
apparel leather and for the grain garment leather  
Leather 
characteristics  Recommended value  Test 
methods  
Colour fastness to water , 
gray scale  3 or better  Refer to Annex 
C 
Adhesion of finish to leather  
 (only for pigmented 
leathers)  
a) Dry condition , min,  
b) Wet condition , min,  
  
 
 
 
 
N per 10 mm  
 
N per 10mm   
 
 
 
Refer to Annex 
D 
  
Cold crack resistance     
(only for pigmented leathers)  -10     
(no damage)  Refer to Annex 
E 
*This requirement has been included to ensure that grain leathers which are in accordance with colour fastness to 
dry cleaning requirement specified in Table 1 do not comply with the standard if the dry-cleaning  procedure results in 
partial or complete loss of finish.  
6. Design and Construction requirement.  
 6.1 General  
The garments  shall be constructed in accordance with acceptable manufacturing practice. The leather 
garment  may be acceptably lined and shall be incorporated with closure fitting. The style, fittings, size and 
stitching shall be agreed to seller conforming to sample held by buyer.  
6.2 Design  
The leather garment  design is the matter of agreement between buyer and seller. However, the design 
should be comfortable that the user can enjoy usability at the highest level.  
e) Construction  
The strength of materials and components used for making leather garments  shall be s uch that the 
overall performance of the garments  is per this Draft Tanzania Standard.  
6.3 Skiving  
For the leather, skiving shall be done in such a way that it will ensure the strength of the seam due to 
slippage and formation of hard ridges.  
  
5 
 6.4 Lining and Interl ining  
The lining shall be appropriate to the type of leather and of an acceptable quality as per given in TZS 
1549: 2012, Lining fabric specification.  
6.5 Seams and Stitching  
For seams strength there should be 6 to 10 stitches per 25mm with the end of all stit ching securely back 
stitched.  
No seam slippage shall be allowed and all seams shall be free from twist, pleats and manufacturing 
practice.  
7 Workmanship and finish  
 
7.1 The appearance, workmanship and finish in all other aspect not mentioned in this specificatio n shall 
be of acceptable quality for trading practice. Sewing shall be uniform and double rows of stitching 
shall be uniform unless intended to be otherwise.  
 
7.2 The leather garments  shall be free from any defect that affects their appearance relevant to the 
approved sample.  
8 Marking  
8.1 The leather shall be legibly marked on the flesh side of each piece with the area in square decimeter  
 NOTE – The marking should not cause any disfi guration to the leather or migrates itself to the grain 
 surface of the leather coming in contact with it.  
8.2 Each leather garment shall be legibly stamped or labeled with the following information  
a) Manufactures name or recognized trade mark.  
b) Type of outer  materials used i.e. leather or non – leather.  
c) Batch number.  
d) Size.  
e) Care label.  
 
9 Packing  
9.1 The leather shall be packed as agreed to between the purchaser and the supplier.  
9.2 The package shall be marked of the manufacturer and recognized trade – mark, if any, number of 
pieces of leather, total area,  month and year of manufacturer.  
10 Sampling  and criteria for conformity  
The scale of sampling and criteria for conformity of the material shall be as prescribed in TZS 190: 2013   
6 
 ANNEX A  
(Normative)  
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRY CLEANING  
A – 1 SCOPE  
This annex specifies a procedure for determination of dimensional stability of leather to dry cleaning in 
tetrachloroethylene. The method is intended only for the assessment of dimensional changes undergone  
by a specimen subjected to a single dry cleaning and finishing operation; when it is desired to determine 
the amount of progressive dimensional change, the method may be repeated for a specified number of 
cycles normally not exceeding five.  
A - 2 PRINCIPL E 
Conditioned leathers are marked and measured, subjected to a dry cleaning procedure, followed by an 
appropriate finishing procedure. They are afterwards conditioned and measured. The dimensional change 
is expressed as a percentage of the original dimensions.  
A – 3 REAGENTS  
A – 3.1 Tetrachloroethylene, Dry cleaning Grade  
A – 3.2 Sorbitan Mono – Oleate  
A – 4 APPARATUS  
A – 4.1 Dry Cleaning Machine  
This shall consist of a commercial rotating cage type, totally enclosed, machine for use with 
tetrachloroethylene. The diameter of the rotating cage shall be not less than 600mm and not more than 
1080mm. its depth shall be not be less than 300mm. it shall be fitted with three or four filters. The speed 
shall be such as to give a radial acceleration  of between 0.5    and 0.8   for cleaning and between 60    
and 120     for extraction    [see Note 1 under A – 9.1(g)]. The machine shall be equipped with a 
thermometer for the measurement of solvent temperature. The machine shall have suitable facilities 
permitting the emulsion to be introduced gradually into the solvent between the cage and the casting, 
below the level o f the solvent, in such a way that it does not fall directly on to the load. The machine shall 
be equipped with the temperature control of either the incoming or the outgoing air during the drying 
cycle. [For general guidance, see Note 2 under  A – 9.2(g)]  
A – 4.2 Apparatus for Applying Appropriate Finishing Treatment to the Test specimen  
A – 4.3 Make – Weights Consisting of Cleaning Textile pieces or Garments  
These shall be white or a light colour and consist of approximately 80 percent wool and 20 percent cotton 
or viscose.  
  
7 
 A - 4.4 Means of Marking the Test Specimen  
Pen and indelible ink or other suitable marking device can be used.  
A – 4.5 Stable Measuring Scale of Dimensions  
Suitable for the article being tested, graduated in millimetres.  
A – 4.6 A smoo th Flat Surface , of such dimensions that the article being tested can be laid flat for 
measurement.  
A – 5 ATMOSPHERES FOR CONDITIONING AND TESTING  
A – 5.1 For pre – conditioning, an atmosphere of relative humidity not more than 10 percent  and a  
temperature not greater than 50 °C. 
A – 5.2 For conditioning and measuring, the standard atmosphere for leathers that is relative humidity of 
65 ± 2° C percent and a temperature of 27  ± 2° C. 
A – 6 PREPA RATION OF TEST PIECES AND MAKE - WEIGHTS  
A – 6.1 When testing leather pieces lay out the piece without tension on a flat, smooth surface, taking 
care to see that it is free from wrinkles and creases. Make three pairs of marks, each at least 250mm 
apart, along the length and three similar pairs of marks along the width of the leather.  
A – 6.2 Condition the test piece and make – weight in the standard atmosphere for testing leather for at 
least 24 hours.  
A – 6.3 Lay the test piece out as detailed in A – 6.1 and measure the distance between marks to the 
nearest millimeter. Make all measurements in the standard atmosphere for conditioning and testing 
leathers.  
A – 7 PROCEDURE  
A – 7.1 the total mass of the complete load shall be 50 ±2kg for each cubic metre of the volume of the 
cage. Ensure that the test piece (s) do not weigh more than 10percent of the total load, the remainder 
consisting of make – weights unless the test piece(s) as such weight(s) more. When loaded into the 
machine, the piece(s) and the make – weights shall be in equilibrium with the standard atmosphere for 
testing leathers. Equilibrium is deemed to be attained after exposure for 24hours.  
A – 7.2 Place the conditioned load in the machine and introduce tetrachloroethylene containing 1g/l of 
sorbitan mono – oleate so that the liquor ratio, calculated on the volume of solvent in the cage and casing 
is 6.5 ± 0.5 litre  for each kilogram of load ( this  corresponds to a solvent level of approximately 30 
percent of the cage diameter). Maintain the solvent at 30 ± 3°C throughout the cleaning operation.  
A – 7.3 Prepare an emulsion by mixing one part (by volume) of the sorbitant mono – oleate with three 
parts of water (by stirring). Start the machine with the filter circuit shut off and slowly (over a period of not 
less than 2 minutes  and not more than 12 minutes) add an amount emulsion, corresponding to 2 percent  
of water  calculated on the mass of the load,  to the machine between the inner and outer cages below the 
level of the solvent.   
8 
 A – 7.4 Keep the machine running for 15minutes after switching it on. Do not use the filter circuit for the 
duration of the test.  
A – 7.5 Drain the solvent and centrifugally extract the so lvent from the load for 2 minutes ( at least 1 
minute at full extraction speed)  
A – 7.6 Introduce pure dry so lvent at the same liquor ratio ( see A – 7.2) and rinse for 5 minutes. Drain 
and extract again for  3 minutes (at least for 2 minutes at full extraction speed).  
A – 7.7 Dry the load in the machine by tumbling in circulating warm air for an appropriate time, preferably 
using an automatic solvent dryness control. Either the outlet air temperature shall no t exceed 60 °C, or 
the inlet temperature shall not exceed 80 °C. After drying, blow air at ambient temperature through the 
rotating load for 3 to 5 minutes.  
A – 7.8 Immediately take the test piece(s) from the machine. Place garments individually on hangers  and 
place fabric specimens on a flat surface, for not less than 30 minutes before finishing.  
NOTE – If additional information on stability to dry cleaning only is required condition and re measure the 
test piece at this stage before completing the test an d include details of this procedure in the report.  
A-7.9 Carry o ut a finishing treatment by the method appropriate for the type of garments or  fabric under 
test [see Note 3 under A -9.1 (g) 1. In most case s, this will involve pressing on a  garment (steam ) press 
supplied with steam at  a pressure of 37 0 to 490 KPa (over pressure) : or on a steam /air garment former 
for 5 to 20 seconds follo wed by drying with warm air for 5 to 20 se conds. (1 KPa = 1O -x bar, I bar = 1 
kgf/   ). 
A-7.10 Conditio n the test piece as detailed in A-6.2 and me asure to the nearest millimeter each test piece 
using the procedure referred to in A-6.3. 
A-8 CALCULATIONS  AND EXPRESSION OF RESULTS  
Calculate the average dimensional changes along the length and width of leather test pieces separately 
or in the principal dimensions of a garment. Express dimensional changes as a percentage rounded to 
the nearest 0.1 percent, using a minus s ign to indicate shrinkage and a plus sign to indicate an increase 
in dimensions.  
 
A-9 TEST REPORT  
Report the following information:  
 
(a) Whether the procedure for normal materials or the procedure for sensitive materials was 
conducted;  
 
(b) Results obtained according to A -8.1; 
 
(c)  Number of treatments given;  
 
(d)  Details of finishing treatment used, stating nil if this is  appropriate;  
   
9 
 (e) Details of dimensions of the garment or fabric specimen;  
 
(f) Percentage by mass of test piece(s) in the load, and the type of articles comprising the make -
weights; and Maximum inlet or outlet air temperature during drying.  
 
NOTES  
1 The radial acceleration is calculated  according to the following formula:  
  
       
              
Where  
 n = number or revolutions per minute  
 d = diameter acceleration of free fall (9.81m/   ) 
    = standard acceleration of free fall (9.81m/   ) 
2 When using commercial dry cleaning equipment official regulations and normal safety precautions should be 
observed.  
3 The dimensional changes allowed do not imply that garments in wear will have this tolerance after dry 
cleaning. Experiments have shown that leathers giving the de gree of area changes in the test when 
processed as garments by normal commercial procedures with recoiling can be restored to their original 
dimensions.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
10 
  
ANNEX B  
(Normative)  
COLOUR FASTNESS TO DRY CLEANING  
B – 1 SCOPE  AND FIELD OF APPLICATION  
 
This method is intended for determining the resistance of colour of leather to dry cleaning. B-l.2. This 
method is not suitable for evaluation of durability of leather finishes nor is it intended for USC in 
evaluating the resistance of colours to spot and stain removal procedures used by the drycleaner  (see 
Notes 1 and 2 under B -7.5). 
 
B-2 PRINCIPLE  
B-2.1 A specimen of the leather in contact with a cotton fabric bag, along with non -corrodible steel discs, 
is agitated in tetrachloroethylene also known as perchloroethylene (see Notes 2 and 3 under B -7.5), then 
squeezed or centrifuged,  and dried in hot air. T he change in colour of the specimen is assessed with the 
grey scale.  
 
B-2.2 At the conclusion of the test, the coloration of the solvent is assessed by comparing the filtered 
solvent with unused solvent by transmitted light, by means of the grey scale for assessing staining.  
 
B-3 APPARATUS  
B-3.1 A suitable mechanical device (see Note 4 under B -7.5) consisting of a water bath containing a 
ratable  shaft that radially supports, glass or stainless -steel  containers ( 75 ± 5 mm diamete r and 125 ± 10 
mm high ) of approximately 550 ± 50 ml capacity, the bottom of the containers be ing 45  ±10 mm from the 
center  of the shaft. The shaft/containers assembly is rotated at a speed of 40 ± 2rev/min. The 
temperature of the  water bath is thermostatically controlled to ma intain the test solvent at 30  ±2°C. 
 
B-3.2 Glass or Stainless -Steel  Containers, of approximately 550 ml capacity which shall be closed 
using solvent resistant gaskets.  
 
B-3.3 Non-Corrodible  (Stainless) Steel Discs, 30 ± 2 mm by 30 ± 0.5 mm, smooth and free  from rough 
edges, of mass 20 ± 2 g. 
 
B-3.4 Undyed Cotton Twill Cloth, of mass per unit area 270 ± 70 g/  , free from finishes and cut into 
samples 12 cm X 12 cm.  
 
B-3.5 Grey Scales, for assessing the change in colour  
 
B-3.6 Glass Tubes, of diameter 2. 5 cm. 
 
  
11 
 B-4 REAGENT  
Tetrachloroeth ylene (also known as perchloroethylene) which must be stored over anhydrous sodium 
carbonate to neutralize any hydrochloric acid formed.  
 
B-5 TEST PIECE  
B-5.1 Cut a strip of the leather approximately 100 mm X 40 mm.  
 
B-6 CONDITIONING OF TEST PIECE  
Condition test pieces at 27 ± 2°C and 65 ± 2 percent relative humidity.  
 
B-7 PROCEDURE  
B-7.1 Prepare a bag with inside dimensions of 100 mm x 100 mm using the undyed cotton twill cloth by 
sewing together two squares or this cloth  around three sides. Place the test pieces and 12 steel discs 
inside the bag. Close the bag by any convenient means.  
 
B-7.2 Place the bag containing the test pieces and the steel discs in the container and add 200 ml of 
tetrachloroet hylene at 30 ± 2°C. Tr eat the test pieces for  30 minutes at   
30 ± 2°C in the specified equipment.  
 
B-7.3 Remove the bag from the container withdraws the test pieces, place them between absorbent 
paper or cloth and squeeze or centrifuge to remove surplus solvent. Dry the test pieces by hanging them 
in air at a temperature of 60 ± 5°C.  
B-7.4 Assess the change in colour of the test pieces with the grey scale.  
 
B-7.5 At the conclusion of the test, the solvent remaining in the container is filtered through filter paper. 
The colour of filtered solvent is compared with that of the unused solvent in 25 cm diameter glass  tubes 
that are placed in front of a white c ard and e xamined by transmitted light, by means of the grey scale for 
assessing staining.  
 
 NOTES  
1 1 This  test covers colour fastness to dry cleaning only: com mercial dry cleaning   practice normally other 
operation, such as, water spotting,  solvent spotting, steam pressing, etc. for which other standard test 
methods are available if the fully dry clean ability of the leather is to be assessed.  
 
2 The presence of absorbed water in the leather or dry-cleaning  solution, or the presence of a detergent and 
water in the dry-cleaning  solution, has not be found to be a critical factor in assessing the colour  fastness. 
This test gives results which correlate satisfactorily  with those obtained in commercial dry  cleaning.  
 
3 Fastness to dry cleaning, without further qualification, means fastness to dry cleaning in tetrachloroethylene. 
However, if required, other solvents may be used and this should be indicated in the test report.  
 
4 Other mechanical devices may be used for the test provided that the results are identical with those 
obtained by the apparatus described in B – 3.1 
 
B-8 REPORT  
Report the numerical rating for change in colour of the test pieces and for staining of the solvent.   
12 
 ANNEX C  
(Normative)  
COLOUR FASTNESS TO WATER  
 
C- 1SCOPE AND FIELD OF APPLICATION  
This method is intended for determining the resistance of colour of the leather to the prolonged action of 
water.  
 
C-2 PRINCIPLE  
C-2.1 A wetted piece of specified undyed textile is placed on the surface of the test piece to be tested. 
The composite specimen is then left under pressure for a specified time in an appropriate apparatus. The 
test piece and the textile are dried. The change in colour of the test piece and the staining of the textile 
are assessed with the grey scales.  
 
C-2.2 Leathers bear ing finish may be tested intact or with t he finish broken. In the latter case, this shall be 
stated in the test report.  
 
C-3 APPARATUS AND MATERIALS  
 
C-3.1 Testing Device  
It shall consist of a frame of stainless steel into which a weight -piece of mass 5 kg and base 11.5 cm X 6 
cm is close ly fitted so that a pressure of 12. 5 kPa can be a pplied on test pieces measuring 10 cm x 4 cm 
placed between glass or acrylic resin  plates. If the weight piece is removed during the  test, the testing 
device  shall be so cons tructed that the pressure of 12.5 kPa remains unchanged ( see Note 1 under C -
5.4.3 ). 
  
C-3.2 Oven,  maintained at 37 ± 2°C. 
 
C-3.3 Undyed Clothes of Cotton and of Wool, each 10 cm X 4 cm, of plain weave and  having a mass 
per unit area of about 250 g/m” (see Note 2 under  -5-4.3 ).  
 
C-3.4 Distilled Water, pH 6 to 7.  
 
C-3.5 Fine Gr ained Abrasive Paper, Grade 180 ( see Note 3 under C -5.4.3 ). 
 
C-3.6 Grey Scales, for assessing change in colour and  staining  
 
C-4 TEST PIECES  
 
C-4.1 Two test pi eces of leather, each measuring 10 cm X 4 cm, are normally required (see Note 2 under 
C-5.4.3). If the grain is to be tested with the  finish broken, the breaking of the finish is t o be carried out 
using abrasive paper ( see Note 3  under C -5.4.3) .  
  
13 
 C-4.2 Wet out t he undyed clothes of cotton and of wool by immersing them in boiling water contained in a 
beaker. Stir occasionally until both clothes are completely wetted out ( the wool cloth must  have sunk to 
the bottom of the beaker ). Pour o ff the hot water and refill the beaker with cold distilled water.  
 
C-4.3 Remove  the clothes from the water and immediately p lace smoothly on the surface of the test 
pieces t o be tested. Use a plate of the apparatus as support for each test p iece. Gen tly stroke the cl othes 
to remove any air bubbles trapped between them and the test piece.  
 
 
C – 5 PROCEDURE  
C-5.1 Cover  the composite test piece which is already resting on one plate, with another plate and then 
load it in the apparatus with 5 kg,  which corresponds to a pressure of 12’5 kPa on the leather surface 
under test. In order to allow excess water to run off, incline the apparatus about 30° towards the 
horizontal on each side for a few seconds. When several composite test pieces are being t ested 
simultaneously, take care to ensure that each is placed centrally between two plates in such a way that 
the pressure is exerted evenly on each.  
 
C-5.2 Place the charged apparatus in the oven at 37 ± 2°C for 3 hours. The loading weight shall be 
prehea ted in the oven for at least 1hour. Where no oven is available, the test may be carried out  at room 
temperature. In such a case, the duration of the test sh all be adjusted to give results equivalent to these 
at 37°C ( 16 hours at 20°C correspond approximate ly to 3hours at 37°C). If the test has been carried out 
at room temperature, this shall be stated in the report.  
 
C-5.3 At the end of the test, take off the load, remove the composite test piece from the apparatus, stitch 
it loosely together in one corner and dry under normal conditions ( 27   ± 2°C and 65 ± 2 percent relative 
humidity) so that each specimen and its accompanying textile are freely  suspended.  
 
C-5.4 When dry, and after treatment as in C -5.4.1 to C -5.4.3, assess the change in colour of the su rface 
of the test piece under test and the staining of the accompanying textile with the appropriate grey scale.  
 
C-5.4.1 Soft Leathers   
The surface of soft leathers, such as, gloving, may be more or less marked by the texture of the 
accompanying textile. Manipulate such leather lightly to soften, after drying but before  assessment.  
 
C-5.4.2 Leathers Bearing a Finish  
 
After drying but before assessment, apply to leathers bearing a finish, intact or broken, a colourless shoe 
polish (see Note 4 under C – 5.4.3) and polish lightly a wool cloth.  
 
C-5.4.3  Suede Leathers  
 
After drying but before assessment, brush suede leathers in the direction of the nap with a brush that has 
bristles with a length of the trim of about 3.5 cm.  
 
  
  
14 
 NOTES  
1. Suitable testing devices are the hydrotest, the perspiration tester and the perspirometer. If the dimensions of the 
composite test pieces differ from the size of 10cm x 4cm, a weigh – piece shall be used in such a way that a 
pressure of 12.5 kpa is applied to the test pieces. Othe r devices may be used provided that the results are 
identical with those obtained using the apparatus described in C – 3.1. 
 
2. The undyed clothes used as reference materials are made up of cotton and wool. The results obtained with 
these materials give a goo d indication of the general staining characteristics of the wetted leather. In order to 
satisfy the capacity of even strongly absorbing leather. The wetted clothes must contain a sufficient reserve of 
water. The recommended qualities of cotton and worsted wool clothes possess  a reserve of water of 2.75 ± 
0.25g per piece. 10cm x 4cm after squeezing in the hydrotest. If required the test may also be carried out with 
clothes made of other fibres, for example, silk, linen, viscose, acetate, nylon and polyester.  Several layers of 
clothes of such fibres are usually needed to provide a sufficient reserve of water. If a multifibre fabric is used, it 
shall be backed by a woolen cloth to provide a sufficient reserve of water.  
 
3.  For, breaking of the finish, a piece of leather approximately 11 cm x 5 cm is loaded uniformly on the back with 
9.8 N on the area of 10 cm x 4 cm and the surface bearing the finish moved 10 times, 10 cm to and fro on fine 
grained abrasive paper (Grade  180). The roughened area of the test piece i s then cut to 10 cm x 4 cm. With 
some practice, the finish can also be broken by hand with the same effect using the same abrasive paper. The 
toughened area should be brushed out thoroughly.  
 
4. A wax emulsion is used as the shoe polish and it is made as follows: 30g fatty grey carnauba wax. 9g oleic acid, 
6 g morpholine and 25 g water are melted together with stirring and, when blended, boiling water is slowly 
added with rapid stirring to make up the mixture to 300 g. In some  cases, such as, on polyurethane finishes, 
such a wax emulsion is unsuitable and a polish, consisting of waxes and turpentine substitute only, may have to 
be used. If shoe polish other than the above wax emulsion is used. This shall be stated in the test r eport along 
with the composition of the polish ( owing to its toxic nature, morpholine should be handled with care at all 
times).  
 
C-6 REPORT  
 
C-6.1 State the type of leather under test.  
 
C-6.2 Specify which surface of the specimen was tested.  
 
C-6.3 For leather bearing a finish, state whether the finish was broken  
 
C-6.4 Where the test was not carried out at 37°C, state the temperature and duration of test.  
 
C-6.5 For every composite test piece, state the nature of the accompanying textile and report the 
numerical ratings for the change in the colour of the leather and for the staining of the accompanying 
textile.  
 
 
 
 
 
  
15 
  
ANNEX D  
(Normative)  
METHOD FOR MEASUREMENT O F ADHESION OF FINISH TO LEATHER  
 
D – 1 PRINCIPLE  
 
One end of a piece of leather under test is stuck finish side down, to a metal strip, by a selected adhesive, 
chosen to give an adequate bond between the finish and the metal without affecting the adhesion of finish 
to the leather. When the adhesive is fully set or cured, increasing force is applied to the loose end of the 
leather until the finish peels away from the leather. The load required to peel the finish is recorded.  
 
D-2 APPARATIJS AND REAGENTS  
 
D-2.1 Metal Plates  
The plate shall be measuring 10 ± 0.5 mm wide and approximately 75 mm long and 3 -3.5 mm thick. One 
plate is required for each pair of leather test pieces.  
 
D-2.2 Metal square  with sides 65 mm long and a mass of 150 g, covered on one side wi th a soft rubber 
sheet 2 mm thick.  
 
D-2.3 Clamp and Stand  
These are required to hold the metal strip and test specimens and strong enough to support loads of up 
to 2 kg.  
 
D-2.4 Means of Applying Small Successive Additions of Load  
 
The addition of load shall be without shock, to a holder attached to the loose end of the leather. For 
example, weights of 25 or 50 g can be placed on a simple scale pan of known mass (preferably 50 g) 
attached to the leather by means of a hook. A suitable  apparatu s of this type is shown in Fig.  
 
  
16 
  
 
All dimensions in millimetres  
FIG. 1 LEATHER FINISH AND ADHESION TESTER  
 
D-2.5 Adhesive  
 
Different adhesives give different results on the same leather. For most leather finishes, an epoxy resin 
adhesive with a  pot life of about 1 hour at 20°C mixed with an equal part by mass of a curing agent and 
having a cure time of 48 hours has been found suitable.  
 
D-2.6 Pure Light Petroleum Ether, boiling point range of 60 to 80°C.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
17 
 D-3 TEST PIECES  
 
Cut a sample of leather measuring 130 mm in length and 70 mm in width from the official sampling 
position. Cut one piece for dry tests and another piece for wet tests. Fig. 2 shows the sample of leather 
taken for testing and the shaded area show the actual area of the tes t pieces required . 
 
 
 
All the dimensions in millimetres  
FIG. 2 POSITION OF TEST PIECES ON LEATHER SAMPLE  
 
 
D-4 PREPARATION OF TEST PIECES  
 
D-4.1 Scour the metal plates with ‘A’ weight grade P 400 abrasive so that the surface is clean and flat 
with a fine matt finish. Immerse them in petroleum ether for a few seconds to remove grease and wipe 
with a piece of grease -free cotton woo l (medi cal quality ) to remove all the dirt.  
 
D-4.2  ut the leather into two pieces for three test pieces ‘along’ and three ‘acros s’ ( see Fig. 2 ). Turn the 
‘across’ sample through a right angle and place it against the ‘along’ sample, Soak a piece of grease -free 
cotton wool (medical qualit y) in petroleum ether and then wring it almost dry. Wipe this gently over the 
grain surface of  leather test specimens and the  
Surfaces  of the metal plates being careful not to contaminate the cleaned surfaces, for example, with 
grease from the fingers.  
 
D-4.3 When the petroleum ether has evaporated, smear the adhesive lightly over the cleaned surfa ce of 
the metal plates and the area of leather to be tested, applying the thinnest possible continuous film of 
adhesive.  
 
NOTE - A glass or nylon scraper is a suitable tool.  
 
18 
  
D-4.4 Place three metal plates, adhesive side down, on to the two pieces of leather a? shown in Fig. 3. 
Press the plates firmly down and ensure that sufficient adhesive has been used by noting slight exudation 
at the edges of the plates. It is important that th ere should be not more than 3 minutes between coating of 
the metal strip with adhesive and combination with the leather to prevent exposure to moisture and dust.  
 
 
All dimensions in millimetres  
FIG. 3 ARRANGEMENT OF METAL PLATES ON TEST PIECES  
 
D-4.5 Plac e the metal square on the metal plates ( see Fig. 4 ). Place a weight having a mass of 
approximately 1 350 g centrally on the metal square so that the total load of approximately 1 500 g ( 500 g 
per plate)  is applied evenly to all the adhesive bonds.  
 
 
FIG. 4 BONDING OF METAL PLATES TO LEATHER TEST PIECS  
NOTE - D-4.2, D -4.4 and D -4.5 describe the use of one piece of leather to provide six test pieces. If separate test 
pieces are used, these should be at least  50 mm long and 13 mm wide but the method is essenti ally the same . 
 
D-4.6 When the joints are fully set or cured, remove the weight and the metal squ are, and trim  the leather 
test specimens to the width of the metal plate by cutting along the edges of the plate with a pair of sharp 
 
19 
 scissors or a scalpel. To  avoid edge effects, make sure that no adhesive is left on the edges of the metal 
plate. Gently sever the bond between the short edge of the metal plate and each test piece, that is at ‘A’ 
in Fig. 5, separating leather and the metal for about 1. 5 mm.   
 
 
 
FIG. 5 PREPARED TEST PIECES IN TEST POSITION  
 
 
D-4.7 Punch a small hole of sufficient diameter to accommodate an S -hook in the free end of the test 
pieces and about 5 mm from the end.  
 
D – 5 PROCEDURE  
D-5.1 Adhesion of Finish under  Dry Conditions  
D-5.1.1 Place the metal plate horizontally in the stand over the supporting rod so that the affixed leather is 
on the underside (see Fig. 5). Insert an S -hook in the hole at the end of the leather strip to be tested and 
attach the scale pan of known mass to the hoo k. Depress the lever at the base of the stand slowly to 
allow the mass of the pan to pull on the leather strip. This represents the first test equal to 50 g (mass of 
the pan assembly)  
 
D – 5.1.2  Release the lever slowly until the pan rests on its plate form. Carefully, add successive 
additional weights centrally to prevent swinging, freeing the pan for each addition by means of the lever 
until the leather shows signs of beginning to peel away from the metal plate. Up to this stage, the weights 
may be add ed as quickly as is convenient. Continue adding weights at 10 s intervals until separation has 
occurred over at least two -thirds of the area of the bond. Use 250 g increments until the total load 
reaches 400 g and thereafter use 50 g increments.  
 
D-5.1.3  When separation has occurred, add together the total mass of the weights on the pan and the 
mass of the scale pan. Calculate from this, the force (in N/10 mm) and express the result as the adhesion 
of the finish.  
 
 
20 
 D-5.1.4  Note the type of separation which o ccurred and describe it as one of the following:  
a) Normal peeling, that is, for a length not less than 10 mm and covering 90 percent of the 
width of the test specimen;  
b) Plate to adhesive failure;  
c) Adhesive to finish failure;  
d) Finish coats separating;  
e) Adhesion of finish failing in patches; or  
f) Leather torn (grain coming away or tearing into corium)  
 
D-5.2 Adhesion of Finish under Wet Conditions  
D-5.2.1 After preparation and trimming (see D -4), immerse the metal plates and attached leather strips in 
distilled wate r for 20 minutes rubbing the flash side with the finger to facilitate penetration. Remove the 
plate and blot off excess moisture from the metal and the leather. Allow to stand in air for 10 minutes in 
the laboratory.  
 
D-5.2.2  Proceed as in D-5.1.1 to D-5.1.4. 
 
D – 6 TEST REPORTS  
The test report shall state either:  
a) The adhesion of the finish on the individual test pieces with the type of failure  ( see D – 5.1.4), or  
b) The average adhesion in each direction (and for each location) together with the lowest  individual 
value and the type of failure.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
21 
 ANNEX E  
(Normative)  
METHOD FOR DETERMINATION OF COLD CRACK TEMPERETURE  
 
E- 1 PRINCIPLE  
A strip of leather is held between two pieces of wood forming a hinged apparatus. The leather is cooled 
and then creased, grain outwards.  
 
E-2 APPARATUS  
E-2.1 Refrigerated Cabinet ( see Fig. 6). The dimensions of the cabinet are not critical  but the 
dimensions 500 mm x 300 mm X 600 mm have been found suitable. It is essential that the cabinet has 
forced air circulation.  
 
 NOTE - In Fig. 6, this is provided by a fan set at the bottom of the cabinet. Cooling can be provided either by 
 solid carbon dioxide placed in triangular trays in the corners of the cabinet or by an independent cooling unit 
 so that the air is forced in near the base of the cabinet and exhausted near the top. Temperature is 
 controlled in the first case by intermittent manual switching of fan to maintain the required temperature. In 
 the latter case, a thermostat can be incorporated in the effluent air stream and set to the required 
 temperature.  
 
If a deep freeze cabinet is used, it is again essential to incorporate a fan for air movement over the test 
pieces and a thermostat to main tain the required temperature.  
 
 
All dimensions in millimetres  
FIG. 6 REFRIGIRATED CABINATE  
 
22 
  
 
E-2.2 Hinged Apparatus for Mounting the Test Pieces (see Fig. 7)  
 
It shall b: provided with holes of 5 mm diameter set 40 mm in from the free edge. These are countersunk 
on the inside so that the fixing screws for the samples fit flush with the surface and the apparatus can be 
closed flat. The position of the samples in the open position is shown in Fig. 8 and that in the closed 
position in Fig. 9. This enables  the cracks (if any) to be examined. The hinged apparatus is placed  on two 
Para llel brass rods 125 mm apart as shown in Fig. 6. Between th e brass rods, at the same level, a 
thermometer is placed in a brass tube for safety. This can be  read externally.  
 
E-3 TEST PIECES  
 
Test pie ces of leather which measure 90 mm X 1 2.5 mm with a 5 mm hole punched 5 mm from each end 
of the sample are taken  for testing.  
 
E-4 PROCEDURE  
E-4.1 Cut eight tes t pieces of the leather, one to be tested at  each temperature from + +5°C to  - 30°C at 
5°C intervals.  
 
E-4.2 Fix the test  piece in the hinged apparatus. If more t han one leather is to be tested at the same time 
in the hinged apparatus, ensure that all leather s are of approximately the same thickness . Thick er test 
pieces will prevent the thinner one from being folded flat.  
 
E-4.3 With t he hinged apparatus in the open position, plac e it on the brass rods with the open part fa cing 
downwards (see: Fig. 8). Close the refrige rated cabinet and run until the temper ature is +5°C. Maintain 
this temperature for 5 mi nutes. This is the minimum time with air mov ement which is required for the 
sample to reach equilibrium in a  refrigerated cabinet. Then  open the cabinet and snap shut the hinged 
appara tus by hand inside the cabinet. Remove  the apparatus from the cabinet and examine th e test piece 
for cracks. If the test piece h as not cracked, replace it by a further test piece a nd replace the apparatus in 
the cabinet. Lower the temperature to 0°C and maintai n for 5 minutes be fore snapping shut once mo re. 
Repeat the test at -5, -10, -15, -20, -25 and -30°C or until the finish shows cracks. The lowest temperature 
that can be conveniently reached is - 30°C.  
 
 
All dimensions in millimetres  
FIG. 7 HINGED APPARATUS  
 
 
23 
 E-5 EXPRESSION OF RESULTS  
 
Record the highest temperature at which  finishes cracks and report  it as the cold crack temperature.  
 
 NOTE - Some finishes do not show straight line cracks. Some show small fine crack and their examination 
 with a magnifying glass may be desir able. If a test  piece has very  fine cracks initially, the end point may not 
 be clear or may be missed.  
             
FIG. 8 HINGED APPARATUS                       FIG. 9 HINGE APPARATUS  
 (OPEN POSITION)      (CLOSED POSITION)  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
24 
 ANNEX F 
(Normative)  
METHOD OF TEST FOR WATER REPELLENCY  
 
F- 1 PRINCIPLE  
Few drops of distilled water are sprinkled on the leather test piece laid flat on a smooth and flat surface 
and allowed to rest for 10 minutes. The test piece is then checked for any stain or spot.  
 
F-2 PROCEDURE  
 
Lay the leather test piece on a smooth and hat surface with grain side up. Sprinkle a few drops of distilled 
water on the surface of leather and allow the water drop to rest for 10 minutes, take out the leather and 
remove the water  drops by shaking the test piece. Lay the leather test piece again on the flat surface and 
observe for any stains or spots left over by distilled water drops. The leather sha ll be considered to have 
passed the requirement for water repellency if no strains  or spots are observed on the test piece  
Surface .