DKS 214 -1:2017
   
KENYA STANDARD                                  DKS 214-1: 2017  
ICS 59.080  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Woven interlinings and linings for apparel    
purposes —Specification   
 
   Part 1 : 
 
  Woven interlinings for apparal purposes  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 DKS 214 -1:2017  
                      ©KEBS 2017 — All rights reserved  
 ©KEBS 2017                                                                                                                SECOND EDITION 2017         
TECHNICAL COMMITTEE REPRESENTATION  
 
The following organizations were represen ted on the Technical Committee:  
 
Moi University, El doret - Department of Textile Engineering  
Kenya Industrial Research and Development Institute (KIRDI)  
Kenya Association of Manufacturers (KAM)  
Handloom Weavers - Yarn craft weavers  
Ministry of Defence  
Kenya Prisons  
Kenya Bureau of Standards — Secretariat  
 
 
 
 
 
REVISION OF KENYA STANDARDS  
 
In order to keep abreast of progress in industry, Kenya standards shall be regularly reviewed. Suggestions 
for improvement to published standards, addressed to the Managing Director, Kenya Bureau of Standards, 
are welcome.  
 
 
 
 
 
© Kenya Bureau of Standards, 2017  
Copyright. Users are reminded that by virtue of section 6 of the Copyright Act, Cap. 130 of the laws of Kenya, copyright subs ists in all 
Kenya Standards and except as provided under section 7 of this act, no Kenya Stand ard produced by Kenya Bureau of Standards may 
be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system in any form or transmitted by any means without prior permission in writing from the 
Managing Director.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   DKS 214 -1:2017
   
 
 
 
KENYA STANDARD                                  DKS 214 -1: 2017  
ICS 59.080  
 
 
Woven interlinings and linings for apparel 
purposes —Specification   
 
Part 1 : 
 
Woven interlinings for apparal purposes  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
KENYA BUREAU OF STANDARDS (KEBS)  
 
Head Office:  P.O. Box 54974, Nairobi -00200, Te l.: (+254  020) 605490, 602350, Fax: (+254 020)  604031  
E-Mail: info@kebs.org,  Web:http://www.kebs.org   
 
Coast Region     Lake Region          Rift Valley Region  
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Tel.: (+254  041) 229563, 230939/40  Tel.: (+254 057) 23549, 22396        Tel.: (+254 051) 210553, 210555  DKS 214 -1:2017  
                      ©KEBS 2017 — All rights reserved  
 Fax: (+254  041) 229448    Fax: (+254 057) 21814        
 
   
 
 
 
DKS 214 -1: 2017  
 
FOREWORD  
 
This Kenya Standard was prepared by the Technical Committee on Wov en Fabrics under 
the direction of the Texile Industry Standards Committee and the National Standards 
Council.  
 
Interlinings  are used for giving stiffening effect to collars and cuffs as well as to provide 
additional strength. This standard was formulated with a view to help manufactures in 
producing acceptable interlinings and to safeguard the interests of the consumers.  
 
 This document supersedes KS 214:1 1982  
 
In the prepartion of this standard reference was made to:  
 
IS: 6726 Specification for interlini ngs for shirts.  
 
Acknowledgement is made for the assistance received from this source . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   DKS 214 -1:2017
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
KENYA STANDARD                                                                DKS 214 -1:2017  
 
 
Woven interlinings and linings for apparel p urposes -Speci fication  
 
Part 1:  
 
Woven interlinings for apparel purposes  
 
1. SCOPE  
 
This Kenya Standard specifies requiremen ts  of  woven interlinings .the standard is applicable to three 
variaties  made from any of the following;  sewn interlings with Cotton  ,Synthetic or blended  interlinings  and 
fusible interlinings with cotton, synthetic or blended woven fabric as the base  
 
2 NORMATIVE REFERENCES  
 
KS ISO 7771: Dimensional changes of fabrics by cold water immersion.  
       
 KS ISO 3758 : Care labelling code using symbols  
 
KS ISO 13934 -1 Determination of maximum force and elongation at maximum force using the strip method
   
KS ISO 3801: Determination of mass per unit length and mass per unit area  
 
KS ISO 7211 -2 Determination of number of threads per unit lengt h 
 
KS ISO 105 -D01: Methods for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to dry cleaning.  
 
KS ISO 105 -C10:  Methods for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to washing.  
 
KS ISO 105 -E04: Methods for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to perspiration.  
 
KS 08 -212: Definitions of general terms, basic weaves and plans for drafting, denting and lifting.  
 
KS ISO 105 -D02: Methods for determination of colour fastness of textile material to rubbing  Part 1: Dry and 
wet method.  
 
KS ISO 22198:  Determination of width and length of textile fabrics  
 
KS ISO 2313:  Determination of the recovery from creasing of a horizon tally folded specimen of fabric by 
measuring the angle of recovery  
 
 
 
 DKS 214 -1:2017  
                      ©KEBS 2017 — All rights reserved  
  
2 DEFINITIONS  
 
For the purpose of this standard, the following definitions shall apply:  
 
2.1 Interlinings - known as supportive fabric in garments which is used between two layers of fa bric. It is   
attached  to garments through sewing  or heating process. Its main purpose is used to hold up, support, 
control area of garments and to keep real shape.  
2.2 Sewn interlinings  —interlining which is fixed with the apparel components by sewing  
 
2.3 F usible interlinings  —interlinings which  is fixed with the apparel components by applying heat and 
pressure for certain period of time  
 
2.4 S trike-through  — Penetration of the adhesive from the interlining to the face of the outer fabric.  
 
2.5 S trike -back  — Penetraion of the adhesive to the outer surface of the interlining.  
 
4. REQUIREMENTS  
 
4.1 GENERAL REQUIREMENS  
 
4.1.1  Appearance -The interlin ings shall be uniform in appearance. When viewed through transmitted 
light the interlinings shall not sho w streaks, patches, blurs, etc.  (see KS ISO 2313)     
 
4.1.2  The interlinings shall  have a nearly square construction  in the finished state.  
 
4.1.3  Defects -Interlinings shall be free from prominent weaving  defect s, like bars, floats, slubs  (see KS 
ISO 2313 ).The interlinings shall not show warp -weft distortion.  
 
4.1.4  The spot type interlinings shall have smooth texture, that is, they shall have rubber -like feel.  The 
sinter type fusible interlinings shall have grannules uniformly spread on the surface.  
 
4.1.5  Fusing instruction  -for fusible linings, fusing instruction shall be supplied with the interlining. 
There shall be no strike -through, and strike -back shall not be such as to cause subsequent adhesion 
to the interlining  
 
4.2 Specific Requirements  — The specific requirements for the interlinings shall be as given in 
Table 1.  
 
4.3 Performance of Finish  
 
4.3.1  The maximum dimensional change shall be  1  per cent after 3 washings.  
 
 This shall be determined in accordance with KS ISO 7771  
 
4.3.2 The  crease recovery shall  not differ by more than 5 per cent from that specified in Table 1.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   DKS 214 -1:2017
   
 
Table 1—Specific requirements of interlinings for apparel pur poses  
 
 
CHARACTERISTC   
Cotton  
interlinings  Sythentheic or 
blends  
Interlinings   
Fusible  
Interlining   
TEST METHOD  
 
 
(a)  Mass in g/m2  
90-210  
90-210  
90-210  
KS ISO 3801  
 
(b)  Width in cm (min).   
70.0  
70.0  
70.0  
KS ISO 22198  
 
(c)  Crease recovery a ngle  
180°  
180°  
180°  
KS ISO 2313  
 
(e)  Starch   
Nil  
Nil  
Nil  
Appendix A  
 
 
(f)   Breaking load  
      in N (min.)   
111  
111  
111  
KS ISO 13934 -1 
 
(g)   Bond strength  
       in gf:  
     
(i)  Sinter and     
            spot type  
 
      (ii)  Film type  
  
 
 
 
- 
 
 
-  
 
 
 
- 
 
 
-  
 
 
 
1 500  
 
 
2 000   
 
 
KS ISO 13934 -1 
 
 
5. Marking  
 
5.1 Each roll of interlinings shall be marked with the following informaiton:  
 
(i) Name of the materail, compsosition in case of blended interlinings and amount of fusible 
content inca se of fusible interlinings;  
 
 (ii) Manufacturer’ s name, initials or trade mark  
 
 (iv) Fusing instxructions in case of fusible interlinings.  
 
           V)   Country of manufacture  
 
6. Packing  
 
6.1 The interlinings shall be packed in conti nuous length and i n accordance with KS 2659  
 
7. Packaging  
 
7.1 The rolls ( see 6.1) shall be wrapped with low density polyethylene film. A suitable numnber of rolls 
shall be arranged in bundles and secured to form a pack. A suitabe number of such packs shall then 
be wrapped in a suitable watereproof packing material.  
 
8. Criteria for conformity  
 
8.1 Visual Examination  — Any selected piece(s) shall be examined for appearance, texture and  
weave defects as required in 4.1.3 . There shalll be no defects in any piece examined.  
 
8.2 Dimensional Tests  — For width and mass any sample (s) tested shall pass the test.  DKS 214 -1:2017  
                      ©KEBS 2017 — All rights reserved  
  
8.3 Physical Tests  — For physical tests mentioned in ( c), (d) and ( f) of Table 1, five tests shall be 
conducted on each test piece suitably taken from the samples and all shall pass the test.  
 
8.4 Chemical Test  — For starch, two tests shall be conducted foreach test piece and no failure shall 
occur.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   DKS 214 -1:2017
   
 
A P P E N D I X  A  
 
(Item (e), Table 1)  
 
METHOD FOR DETERMINATION OF THE PRESENCE OF S TARCH  
 
A1. TEST SPECIMENS  
 
A1.1  From the sample under analysis, cut a piece weighing about 10 g shred the piece (into small bits and 
mix them thoroughly.  Draw from the shredded pieces a test specimen of about 5 g.  
 
A2. PROCEDURE  
 
A2.1  Boil the test specim en to about 200 mL of distilled water in conical flask for about 45 min. Cool the 
contents in the flask. Put a drop of iodine solution on a small quantity taken from the flask.  
 
A3. REPORT  
 
A3.1  Observe whether there is any appearance of blue colour. Take the materrial to be free from all starch 
if no blue colour is observed.  
 
 
 
A P P E N D I X  B  
 
(Item (g), Table 1).  
 
NOTE ON PREPARTION OF TEST SPECIMENS FOR BOND STRENGTH 
DETERMINATION  
 
Fuse the base fabric, that is, shirting with the fusible interlinings  at the required temperature and pressure for 
the specific duration as advised by the manufactuers.  
 
Cut the test specimens of 2.5 cm x 30 cm size. Manually strip the specimen at one end over a distance of 2.5 
cm.  Secure the base fabric, that is , shirtin g evenly in the upper jaw and the interlining in the lower jaw.