tbs              TDC2(5632 )P3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Draft  
Tanzania Standard  
Textiles  – Cotton Kitenge – Specification s 
 
(Second edition)  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
TANZANIA BUREAU OF STANDARDS  
 
1 
 0 FOREWORD  
0.1 In view of the need to help Cotton Kitenge producers in manufacturing of a defined quality , it has been 
felt necessary to prepare a Draft Tanzania S tandard moreover, due to technological advancement the 
Draft Tanzania S tandard has been revised  to bring its requirements in alignment with the current science, 
technology, practice and expertise.  
0.2 The development of this Draft Tanzania Standard is based on the current practices and requirements 
of the industries and relevant authorities. This Dr aft Tanzania Standard is the second edition  which has 
been technically revised , where;  its foreword and other portions have  been slight ly improved.  
In Table 1, Particulars of Cotton Kitenge  (mass per unit area) t here being no tolerance on both negative 
and positive side on these requirements  that, it cancels tolerance of ±5 and makes it minimum value , this 
is to avoid  flexibility to industry to adjust construction of the fabric depending upon market demands , also 
the term ‘‘Cover factor’’  has been added on Clause 3 as terminology to make it clear to user of this 
Second revision .  
0.3. In the preparation for  reviewing this Draft Tanzania Standard , reference was made to the following:  
Local company specifications  
IS 1095: 2002 , Specification for handloom cotton d ress materials. Bleached, dyed, printed, 
striped or checked, published by the Bureau of Indian Standards.  
The number of decimal places retained in the rounded off value should be the same as that of the 
specified value in this  Draft Tanzania Standard.  
This second edition cancels and replaces the first edition which was developed in year  – 2009  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
2 
 Tanzania Bureau o f Standards  
Draft Tanzania Standard           TDC2( 5632 )P3 
Textiles – Cotton  Kitenge  Specifications  
 
1. SCOPE  
This 2nd revision Draft Tanzania Standard prescribes the constructional details and  other particulars of 
varieties of Cotton K itenge.  It does  not specify the type of finish, general appea rance, luster and neither 
feels of cloth nor does it specify the colour com binations in printed cloth.  
2. NORMATIVE REFERENCES  
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated 
references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced 
document (in cluding any amendments) applies : 
TZS 4: Rounding off numerical values  
TZS 20: Textiles – Woven fabrics – Determination of number of threads per  centimeter  
TZS 21: Textiles – Woven or knitted fabrics – Determination of mass per unit length and per unit 
area 
TZS 22: Textiles – Woven fabrics – Determination of breaking load and  
Extension  
TZS 23: Textiles – Test for colour fastness to light: Xenon arc  
TZS 26:  Textiles – Determination of conductivity, pH, water soluble matter,  chloride and sulphate 
in aqueous extracts  
TZS 40:  Textiles – Tests for colour fastness to light: Da ylight  
TZS 44: Textiles – Woven or knitted fabrics – Determination of length and width  
TZS 137: Textiles – Determination of d imensional changes of woven and knitted fabri cs and 
garments: Machine method  
TZS 138:  Textiles – Test for colour fastness to rubbing  
TZS 139: Textiles – Determination of linear dens ity of yarn removed from fabric free from added 
matter  
TZS 167: Textiles – Tests for c olour fastness to washing: Test 3  
TZS 280:  Textiles – Tests for colour fastness – colour fastness to perspiration . 
 
3. TERMS AND DEFINITIONS  
For the purpose of this Draft Tanzania Standard the fo llowing  terms and  definitions shall apply:  
3.1 Kitenge (plural –Vitenge ) 
plain–woven  of ligh t-weight cotton fabric  printed with fast colours and the prints are generally completely 
visible on both sides. Kitenge forms a continuous p rint lengthwise with a small top and bottom edging 
border lines.  
  
3 
 3.2 Dressing materials  
materials applied to yarns during warp preparation such a s size, stiffening or softening agents . 
 
3.3 Filling materials  
non-substantive and generally insoluble materials, such as ch ina clay, gypsum, etc. added to fabric 
together, with starches or  gums during finishing  to add weight or to modify the appearance and handle of 
the fabrics.  
 
3.4 Cover factor  
number that indicates the extent to which the area of a fabric is covered by one set of threads. For any 
woven fabric, there are two cover factors: a warp cover factor and a weft cover factor.  
 
4. MANUFACTURE  
4.1 Yarn  
Cotton yarn used in the manufacture of cloth shall be of the q uality to ensure that the cloth complies with 
the requirements of this Draft Tanzania Standard. It sh all be satisfactory in evenness and reasonably free 
from neps and spinning defects.  
4.2 Cloth  
The cloth used for manufacture of Kitenge  shall be woven in plain weave. The selvedges shall be firm 
and well woven.  
4.2.1  The cloth shall be sheared and singed.  
4.2.2  The cloth shall be printed to suitable shades and col ours as agreed upon between the buyer and 
the manufacturer. The prints shall be clearly visible on both sides of the Kitenge . They shall be free from 
printing defects such as uneven s pread of print  paste, blur and inclination.  
4.2.3  The Kitenge shall be free from dressing and filling materials and substances liable to cause 
subsequent tendering.  
4.2.4  The Kitenge when visually examined shall be reasonably free from spinning, weaving and 
processing d efects.  
5. REQUIREMENTS  
5.1 Construction  
The Kitenge  shall c omply with the requirements of T able 1. The permissible tolerances for various 
requirements and the methods of test h ave also been described in T able 1. 
 
 
 
 
  
4 
 Table 1 – Particular  of cotton Kitenge  
Characteristics  Requirements  Methods of test  
Cover Factor (K)   See note 1  
Warp  
Weft 12.7 ±0.5  
10.7 ±0.5   
Mass  per unit area, g/m2 min. 120 TZS 21:  (see clause 2)  
Breaking load, N, min. 
Warp way  
Weft way   
380 
300  
 
TZS 22:  (see clause 2)  
 
NOTE – 1) K = cn√Nt  
Where;  
K is the cover factor  
c is the constant for tex = 0.04126  
n is the number of threads per 2.54 centimeter  
Nt is the Tex number of a yarn  
 
NOTE – 2) Mass and breaking load specified, relate to the specif ic state of finish in which the Kitenge  is 
delivered.  
 
5.2 Colour fastness  
5.2.1 The colour of the printed cloth shall be fast to agencies in accordance with the requirements 
specified in T able 2, when tested.  
5.2.2. Other requirements of Kitenge  shall be as given in table 3.  
 
   Figure 1 – 200cm Kitenge  piece (continuous cut piece)  
NOTE:  
(1) See Table 3 - for other requirements of Kitenge.  
 
NOTE:  
(2) Small top and bottom edging border with a marking space at the bottom selvage (see 
clause 6).  
 
 
5 
 5.3 Sealed sample  
 
If in order to illustrate or specify the type of finish, general appearance, feel, etc., of cloth or to specify 
shades and colours, in Kitenge , a sample has been agreed upon and sealed, the supply shall be in 
conformity with the sample in respect of finish, general appearance, shades and colours, etc., as the 
case may be.  
 
5.4 The custody of the sealed sample shall be a matter of prior agreement between the buyer  
and the manufacturer.  
 
Table 2 – Colour fastness requirement  
 
Fastness to:  Numerical rating  Method of test  (see clause 2)  
Light  
 
Washing  
 
Rubbing  
        Dry 
        Wet  
 
Perspiration  4 or better  
 
4 or better  
 
 
4 or better  
3 or better  
 
4 or better  TZS 23: or TZS 140:  
 
TZS 167:  
 
 
TZS 138:  
 
 
TZS 280:  
 
 
Table 3 – Other requirements of Kitenge  
 
Characteristics   
Requirements  Method of test  
(see clause 2)  
 
pH value   
6.0 to 8.5   
TZS 26:  
Shrinkag e or elongation, percent 
(%), max  
±5  
TZS 137:  
 
Length, cm, min.  
200  
TZS 44:  
 
Width, cm, min.  
116 (see note 1)   
TZS 44:  
 
Tolerance (length and width)   
+ 2%  
TZS 44:  
 
 
Dye properties   
None carcinogenic  
None allergenic   
TZS 2007 -2: 
 
NOTE:  
Length and width specified, relate to the specific state of finish in which the Kitenge  is delivered  in the 
laboratory for testing . 
 
 
 
  
6 
 6. MARKING  
 
6.1 The Kitenge  shall be marked at sel vedges  with the following:  
a) descri ption of the material. i.e. 100 % cotton,  
b) manufacturer’s name, or reference (initials or trade mark) and if required supplier’s  
name or reference and  
c) design number.  
 
6.1.1  The Kitenge  may also be marked with the tbs Standards Mark of Quality.  
 
NOTE: Information regarding issuance of license  to use the tbs Standards Mark of Quality may be obtained 
from TBS offices.  
 
6.2 In addition to 6.1, each bale of fabric shall carry a l abel indicating how much material in meters  is 
contained in the bale.  
 
7. PACKING  
The cloth shall be packed in bales or cases in conformity with the procedure agreed upon between the 
buyer and the manufacturer.  
 
8. SAMPLING  
8.1 Lot  
The quantity of Vitenge of the same quality delivered to one buyer against one dispatch note shall 
constitute a lot.  
 
8.1.1  The conformity of the lot to the requirements of this 2nd edition  Draft Tanzania Standard shall be 
determined on the basis of tests carried out on the samples selected from the lot.  
 
8.1.2  Unless otherwise ag reed upon between the buyer and  manufacturer, the number of pieces to be 
selected at random from a lot shall be in accordance with Table 4.  
 
Table 4 – Sampling size and permissible number of non-conforming pieces  
 
 
Number of pieces  
in the lot  Sample size (No. of 
pieces to be  
selected)  Permissible no.  
Non-conforming  
pieces  Sub-sample size  
(No. of pieces to be 
selected ) 
Up to 25  
26 to 50  
51 to 150  
151 to 300  
301 to 500  
501 to 1000  
1000 and above  3 
5 
8 
13 
20 
32 
50 0 
0 
0 
1 
1 
2 
3 2 
2 
3 
3 
5 
5 
8 
 
 
  
7 
 8.2 Number of samples and criteria for conformity  
The number of samples to be drawn and the criteria for conformity of the material for various 
characteristics shall be in accordance with Table 5 . 
 
Table 5  – Criteria for Conformity of the Material  
 
Characteristics   
Number of samples   
Criteria for conformity  
Ends, picks, Mass, length 
width and Visual inspection  According to col. 4 of Table 4  Number of non -conformity  
pieces shall not exceed  
the corresponding number  
given in col. 3 of Table 4  
Dimensional change, pH 
value,  
Colour fastness and  
breaking load   
According to col. 4 of Table 4   
All pieces shall meet the  
requirement