KENYA STANDARD  DKS 543-1:2022 
ICS 59.080.020 
Second  Edition  
 
 © KEBS 2022   
 Embroidery threads — Specification  
Part 1: Cotton  embroidery threads  
 
 
 DKS 543-1:2022 
 © KEBS 2022 – All rights reserved  
 TECHNICAL COMMITTEE REPRESENTATION  
The following organizations were represented on the Technical Committee:  
Kenya Industrial Research and Development Institute (KIRDI)  
Bonar (E.A.) Ltd.  
Fine Spinners Ltd.  
Kenya Consume rs’ Organization  
Spin Knit Ltd.  
Spinners and Spinners Ltd.  
Ministry of Public Works — Materials Branch  
Kenya Prisons  
Agriculture and Food Authority - Fibre Crops Directorate (AFA -FCD)  
Intertek International Ltd  
Kenya Agricultural & Livestock Research Organization (KALRO)  
Kenya Association of Manufacturers (KAM)  
Ministry of State Defence -R&D Department  
Moi University  
Rivatex East Africa Limited  
State Department for Industrialization Directorate of Agro -Industries  
Technical University of Kenya - Departme nt of Fashion, Clothing and Textiles  
Texfab B.S  
Kenya Bureau of Standards — Secretariat  
 
REVISION OF KENYA STANDARDS  
In order to keep abreast of progress in industry, Kenya Standards shall be regularly reviewed.  Suggestions for 
improvements to published s tandards, addressed to the Managing Director, Kenya Bureau of Standards, are 
welcome.  
© Kenya Bureau of Standards  2022 
Copyright. Users are reminded that by virtue of Section 25 of the Copyright Act, Cap. 130 of 2001 of  the Laws of Kenya, copyright subsist s 
in all Kenya Standards and except as provided under Section 25 of this Act, no Kenya Standard produced by Kenya Bureau of Sta ndards 
may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system in any form or transmitted by any means without prior permission in writin g from the 
Managing Director.  
  KENYA STANDARD  DKS 543-1:2022 
ICS 61.020 
Second  Edition  
 
© KEBS 2022 – All rights reserved  iii 
 Embroidery threads — Specification  
Part 1:  Cotton  embroidery threads  
 
 
  Kenya Bureau of Standards,  Popo Road, Off Mombasa Road,  
P.O. Box 54974 - 00200,  Nairobi, Kenya  
 +254 020 6948000, + 254 722202137, + 254 734600471  
 info@kebs.org  
 @KEBS_ke  
 kenya bureau of standards (kebs)  
DKS 543-1:2022 
 © KEBS 2022 – All rights reserved  
 Foreword  
This Kenya Standard has been prepared by the Technical Committee on Yarns and Fibres  under guidance of 
the Standards Projects Committee, and it is in accordance with the procedures of the Kenya Bureau of 
Standards.  
Cotton embroidery threads are manufacture d using cotton fibres.  This Revision is intended to guide 
manufacturers in producing acceptable embroidery threads and give an assurance to consumers that the 
threads in the market are of good quality.  
This Second edition cancels and replaces the First edition (KS 543-1:2000 ) which has been technically 
revised. The changes are as  follows ; 
               -Test method s in clauses 4.21, 4.2.5, 4.2.6 and 4.2.7 have  been updated  
               -Clause 7 on sampling have been added  
               -A requirement on linear density have been added  
               -Method of determ ination of  length have been added  in annex A  
 
During the preparation of this standard, reference was made to the following document:   
KS 543 -1:2000, Specification for embroidery threads Part 1. Cotton embroidery threads.  
IS 1803 -1973 Specification for cotton embroidery threads  
Acknowledgment is hereby made for assistance received from these sources.  DKS 543 -1:2022   
 
© KEBS 2022 – All rights reserved   
 Embroidery threads — Specification  Part 1 : Cotton  embroidery threads  
1 Scope  
This Kenya Standard prescribes the requirements , test methods  and sampling  method for cotton embroidery 
threads  
 
2 Normative Reference s 
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content constitutes 
requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the 
latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.  
 
KS ISO 1139, Textiles — Designation of yarns.  
KS ISO 1144, Textiles — Universal syste m for designating linear density (Tex System).  
KS ISO 2062, Textiles — Yarns from packages — Determination of single -end breaking force and elongation 
at break using constant rate of extension (CRE) tester.  
KS ISO 2060, Textiles — Yarn from packages — Determination of linear density (mass per unit length) by the 
skein method.  
KS ISO 105 -B01, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part B01: Colour fastness to light: Daylight  
KS ISO 105 -B02, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part B02: Colour fastness  to artificial light: Xenon arc 
fading lamp test  
KS ISO 105 -B03, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part B03: Colour fastness to weathering: Outdoor 
exposure  
KS ISO 105 -B04, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part B04: Colour fastness to artificial  weathering: 
Xenon arc fading lamp test  
KS ISO 105 -C10, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part C10: Colour fastness to washing with soap or 
soap and soda  
KS ISO 105 -N01, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part N01: Colour fastness to bleaching: Hy pochlorite  
KS ISO 2061, Textiles — Determination of twist in yarns — Direct counting method.  
KS ISO 6741 -1, Textiles — Fibres and yarns — Determination of commercial mass of consignments — Part 1: 
Mass determination and calculations.   
 
KS 545 , Method for determination of colour fastness of textiles to peroxide washing (sodium perborate).  
 
 
  
© KEBS 2022 – All rights reserved  iii 
 3 Terms and definitions  
For the purpose of this document, the definitions given in KS ISO 1139 and KS ISO 1144 apply  
 
4 Requirements   
4.1 General r equirements  
4.1.1  Yarn  
Cotton yarn for embroidery thread shall be evenly spun with suitable twist to produce balanced threads.  
NOTE:  Twist is commonly expressed as Twists per Metre.  
4.1.2  Thread  
The embroidery shall be reasonably free from kinks, projections, slubs, broken  or loose ends or, other  
manufacturing imperfections which may affect its appearance or serviceability.  
4.1.3  Finish  
4.1.3.1  White embroidery thread shall have a uniform bleached finish.  The dyed embroidery thread shall be 
free from dyeing defects.  
4.1.3 .2 The embroidery thread shall be mercerised.  Finishing and dressing materials liable to cause 
subsequent tendering shall not be used.  Optical brighteners shall not be applied  on the thread.  
4.1.3.3  Embroidery threads shall comply with the physical requi rements given in Table 1  
4.2 Specific r equirements  
4.2.1 Twist  
Twist shall be as declared subject to ± 5 per cent.  Twist value shall be determined in accordance with KS ISO 
2061 . 
4.2.2  Balance of twist  
 A maximum of 5 turns as re -twist or double on account of the link shall be permitted in the loop when the two 
ends of the thread gripped by hand at an approximate distance of 1.5 m are brought together.  
4.2.3 Knots  
 
4.2.3.1 The number of knots shall comply with the requirements given in Table 2.  
 
4.2.3.2 The number of knots in the specimen shall be calculated by the following expression:  
  
 Number of knots (Knots/km) = k/L  
 where,  
 
  k    =    the total number of knots in the  specimen,  
                       L    =    the total length of specimen in km.  
 
  
 © KEBS 2022 – All rights reserved  
  
4.2.4 Length  
 
4.2.4.1 The length of the embroidery thread shall be as declared or marked subject to a tolerance of minus 1 
per cent when tested in accordance with annex A.  
 
4.2.4.2 Length shall be measured by counter reel in the state initial tension.  
 
4.2.5 Mass  
 
The mass of embroidery thread , conditioned as per KS ISO 139 , shall be not less than 99 per cent of the 
declared valu e.  
 
 
4.2.6 Colour Fastness  
 
Colour fastness of  dyed embroidery threads shall comply with the requirements given in Table 3 , when tested 
in accordance with test methods specified therein.  
 
4.2.7 Linear density  
 
The nominal linear density of the yarn shall be as declared, subject to a tolerance of  ± 3 per cent . This shall be 
determined in accordance with KS ISO 2060  
 
 4.2.8 Breaking load 
 
The minimum breaking load of the yarn shall be as specified in Table 1 , when  determined in accordance with 
test method  specified therein . For any variety not covered in  the table, the minimum breaking tenacity shall be 
20cN/tex  
Table 1 -Breaking Load of Embroidery Threads  
SN VARIETY 
NUMBER  NOMINAL TEX 
VALUE  MINIMUM 
BREAKING LOAD 
IN N ON 50  TEST 
LENGTH CM  TEST METHOD  
i.  1 12 X 2  4.9 KS ISO 2062  
 
 ii.  2 16 X 2  5.3 
iii.  3 18.5 X  1 42.1 
iv.  4 42 X 2  19.1 
v.  5 50 X 2  25.5 
vi.  6 56 X 3  31.6 
vii.  7 60 X 2  30.6 
 
 
Table 2.  Permissible Number of Knots  
SN Length  (m) Number of Knots , max   
© KEBS 2022 – All rights reserved  v 
 i.  Under 1 000   1 
ii.  Every subsequent   2 
 
Table 3 - Colour Fastness Requirements  
SN Parameter  Requirement, Min  Test Method  
Colour Change  Staining  
i.  Light 5 - 
 KS ISO 105-B01  
KS ISO 105-B02 
ii.  Washing  4 4 KS ISO 105-C10  
iii.  Peroxide washing  4 4 KS 545  
iv.  Weathering  5  KS ISO 105 -B03 
KS ISO 105 -B04 
v.  Hypochlorite 
bleaching  4  KS ISO 105 -N01 
 
 
5 Packaging  
The embroidery thread shall be made up in the form of tubes, reels, balls, hanks or any other convenient form.  
6 Marking  
Each tube, reel or ball shall be marked, preferably on a label, with the following information:  
 
i. 100 per cent cotton embroidery thread.  
 
ii. Nominal tex value.   
 
iii. The length and mass of thread in a unit package.  
 
iv. Year of manufacture or lot number.  
 
v. Manufacturer’s name, initials or trade mark.  
 
vi. Twist value.  
 
vii. The declaration 'Made in Kenya’ or country of origin.  
 
7 Sampling  
7.1 Lot  
 © KEBS 2022 – All rights reserved  
  
7.1.1 The quantity of cotton embroidery thread of the same variety delivered to a buyer against a despatch note 
shall constitute the lot.  
7.1.2 The conformity of the lot to the requirements of this standard shall  be determined based on  the tests 
carried out on the samples selected  from the lot.  
7.1.3 Unless otherwise agreed to between the buyer and the seller, the  number of packs to be selected at 
random from a lot shall be as follows:  
SN Number of Packs in the Lot  Number of Packs to be  Selected  
i.  Upto 15  5 
ii.  16-30 7 
iii.  31-50 10 
iv.  51-100 15 
v.  101-300 25 
vi.  301 and above  30 
 
7.1.4 One tube, reel or ball shall be selected at random from each of the  pack selected according to 7 .1.3. The 
tube, reel or ball thus selected shall  constitute the test sample for determining:  
a) length in m/kg,  
b) breaking load,  
c) balance of twist, and  
d) length per tube, reel or ball (subject to a minimum of 20  samples.  
7.1.4  Acceptance criteria - Acceptance shall be based on conformity of the lot to the requirements of this 
standard.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
© KEBS 2022 – All rights reserved  vii 
 ANNEX  A 
DETERMINATION OF  LENGTH   
A.1 Atmospheric Conditions for Testing  
The atmospheres for preconditioning, conditioning,  and testing shall be as specified in KS ISO 139.  
A.2 Conditioning of Test Specimens  
Prior to test, the test specimens  shall be conditioned in the  standard atmosphere for at least 24 hours.  
A.3 Apparatus  
A.3.1 Warp Reel - with a perimeter of 100 0 ± 4 mm. Determine the actual perimeter of the reel with a strip of 
gummed paper passed tightly  around the reel and secured by adhesion at the overlap . Cut the paper  strip and 
measure its length to an accuracy of 0 .1 percent.   
A.3.2 - Adjust able Yarn Tensioning Device -It shall be capable of giving  a reeling tension that will result in 
skeins of the specified length when  measured under a load of 0.5 gf/tex.  
A.3.3  Weighing Balance -It shall be capable of weighing skeins in  grams and with an accuracy of 0.2  percent  
A.4 Procedure  
A.4.1 Determine linear density in tex as per KS ISO 2060  
A.4.2 Determine the net weight of the yarn in the package in grams  
 
A.5 Calculation  
Calculate the length per kilogram by the following formula:   
𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡 ℎ 𝑖𝑛 𝑚𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟  =1000  𝑋 𝑁𝑒𝑡  𝑤𝑒𝑖𝑔 ℎ𝑡
𝑙𝑖𝑛𝑒𝑎𝑟  𝑑𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑡𝑦  𝑖𝑠 𝑡𝑒𝑥 
 
A.6- Similarly determine the length i n m/kg of other test specimens.