AFRICAN 
STANDARD  DARS  
1599 :2024 
First Edition 2024 
 
 Reference No. DARS 1599 :2024(E) 
ICS XX.XX.XX 
 
 
© ARSO 20 24 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Textiles  - Code of Practice for Garment Manufacturing  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 DARS 1599:202 4 
© ARSO 20 24 — All rights reserved    
Table of contents  
 
 
1 Scope  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .............  4 
2 Normative references  ................................ ................................ ................................ .....................  4 
3 Terms and definitions  ................................ ................................ ................................ .....................  4 
3.1 Design  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........  4 
3.2 quality  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ............  4 
3.3 pattern making  ................................ ................................ ................................ ..............................  4 
3.4 grading  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..........  4 
3.5 spreading  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...... 5 
3.6 Fabric  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ............  5 
4 Building and Facilities  ................................ ................................ ................................ .....................  5 
4.1  Location  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................  5 
4.2 Land Use ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................  5 
4.3 Construction  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........................  5 
4.4  Ventilation  ................................ ................................ ................................ .............................  5 
4.5  Lighting  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ . 5 
4.6 Waste Management and Disposal  ................................ ................................ .........................  6 
4.7 Records Keeping  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................  6 
4.8 Tools, Materials and Equipment  ................................ ................................ ............................  6 
5 Health and Safety  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........................  6 
5.1 First Aid  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .. 6 
5.2 Changing Facilities and Toilets  ................................ ................................ ..............................  7 
5.3 Fire Safety ................................ ................................ ................................ ..............................  7 
5.4 Emergency Exits  ................................ ................................ ................................ ....................  7 
6 Garment Manufacturing Process  ................................ ................................ ................................ .... 7 
6.1 Design  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .... 7 
6.2 Measurements  ................................ ................................ ................................ .......................  7 
6.3 Pattern Making  ................................ ................................ ................................ .......................  7 
6.4 Sample making  ................................ ................................ ................................ ......................  8 
6.5 Production Pattern  ................................ ................................ ................................ .................  8 
6.6 Grading  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .. 8 
6.7 Spreading fabric  ................................ ................................ ................................ .....................  8 
6.8 Laying Out ................................ ................................ ................................ ..............................  8 
6.9 Cutting fabric  ................................ ................................ ................................ ..........................  8 
6.10 Sorting/Bundling  ................................ ................................ ................................ ....................  9 
6.11 Assembling / Sewing  ................................ ................................ ................................ .............  9 
6.12 Sewing Quality Inspection  ................................ ................................ ................................ ..... 9 
6.13.  Pre-Production Inspection  ................................ ................................ ................................ . 9 
6.14 First Inline Inspection  ................................ ................................ ................................ .............  9 
6.15  Second -Inline Production Inspection  ................................ ................................ ....................  9 
6.16  Final Random Inspection  ................................ ................................ ................................ .... 10 
6.17 Pressing / Finishing  ................................ ................................ ................................ .............  10 
7 Packaging  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..... 10 
8 Labelling/Marking  ................................ ................................ ................................ .........................  10 
8.1 Care -label  ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................  10 
8.2 Garment labelling  ................................ ................................ ................................ .................  10 
8.3 Package  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...............................  11 
 
 
   
 Foreword  
 
The African Organization for Standardization (ARS O) is an African intergovernmental organization 
established by the United Nations Economic Commission for Africa (UNECA) and the Organization of 
African Unity (AU)  in 1977 . One of the fundamental mandates of ARSO is to develop and harmoniz e 
African Standards (ARS) for the purpose of enhancing Africa’s internal trading capacity, increase 
Africa’s product and service competitiveness globally and uplift the welfare of African communities. The 
work of preparing African  Standards is normally carried out through ARSO  technical committees. Each 
Member State  interested in a subject for which a technical committee has been established has the 
right to be represented on that committee. International organizations, Regional Economic Communities 
(RECs), governmental and non -governmental  organizations , in liaison with ARSO , also take part in the 
work.  
 
ARSO  Standards are drafted in accordance with the rules given in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2.  
 
The main task of technical committees is to prepare ARSO  Standards. Draft ARSO  Standards adopted 
by the technical committees are circulated to the member bodies for voting. Publication as an ARSO  
Standard requires approval by at least 75 % of the member bodies casting a vote.  
 
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of 
patent rights. ARSO  shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.  
 
This African Standard was prepared by ARSO  TC 053, Textiles , textile products and accessories . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
© African Organisation for Standardisation  2023 — All rights reserved* 
 
ARSO Central Secretariat  
International House 3rd Floor  
P. O. Box 57363 — 00200 City Square  
NAIROBI, KENYA  
 
Tel. +254 -20-2224561, +254 -20-3311641, +254 -20-3311608  
 
E-mail: arso@arso -oran.org  
Web: www.arso -oran.org  
  
 
* © 2024 ARSO — All rights of exploitation reserved worldwide for African Member States’ NSBs.  DARS 1599:202 4 
© ARSO 20 24 — All rights reserved    
Copyright notice  
 
This ARSO document is copyright -protected by ARSO. While the reproduction of this document 
by participants in the ARSO standards development process is permitted without prior permission 
from ARSO, neither this document nor any extract from it may be repro duced, stored or 
transmitted in any form for any other purpose without prior written permission from ARSO.  
 
Requests for permission to reproduce this document for the purpose of selling it should be 
addressed as shown below or to ARSO’s member body in the country of the requester:  
 
 
© African Organisation for Standardisation 20 24 — All rights reserved  
 
ARSO Central Secretariat  
International House 3rd Floor  
P.O. Box 57363 — 00200 City Square  
NAIROBI, KENYA  
 
Tel: +254 -20-2224561, +254 -20-3311641, +254 -20-3311608  
 
E-mail: arso@arso -oran.org  
Web: www.arso -oran.org  
 
Reproduction for sales purposes may be subject to royalty payments or a licensing agreement. 
Violators may be p rosecuted.  
 
 
 
   
  
Textiles - Code of Practice for Garment Manufacturing  
 
 
1 Scope  
 
This Committee Draft African Standard specifies the general principles for production in the garment 
industry. It sets out the necessary guidelines for garment manufacturing industries.  
 
 
2 Normative references  
 
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content 
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For 
undated references, the latest edition of the reference d document (including any amendments) applies.  
 
ISO 4915 , Textiles — Stitch types — Classification and terminology  
 
ISO 4916 , Textiles — Seam types — Classification and terminology  
 
ISO 3758 , Textiles — Care labelling code using symbols  
 
ISO 8559 -1, Size designation of clothes — Part 1: Anthropometric definitions for body measurement  
 
ISO 8559 -2, Size designation of clothes — Part 2: Primary and secondary dimension indicators  
 
ARS 1551 , Terms and definitions for textiles and textile merchandise  
 
3 Terms and definitions  
 
 
For the purposes of this document, the terms and definitions given in ARS 1551  and the following apply.  
 
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:  
 
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at http://www.iso.org/obp  
 
 
3.1 Design  
 
aesthetic or functional characteristics of textile products, including patterns, colors, textures, and 
structural features.  
 
3.2 quality  
 
the totality of features and characteristics of a finished garment that bear on its ability to satisfy stated or 
implied needs . 
 
3.3 pattern making  
 
It is a process that connects design to the garment production process by producing templates for all 
components for completing a specific garment . 
 
3.4 grading  
 
It is a technique of scaling (increasing or decreasing) a base pattern to reproduce other sizes . 
 
AFRICAN STANDARD  DARS 1599:202 4 
© ARSO 20 24 — All rights reserved    
3.5 spreading  
 
This is a preparatory operation for cutting  and consists of laying plies of fabric  one on top of the other in a 
predetermined direction and relationship between the right and wrong sides of the fabric  . 
 
3.6 Fabric  
 
manufactured assembly of fibres or yarns that has substantial surface area in relation to its thickness, and 
sufficient cohesion to give the assembly useful mechanical strength . 
 
 
4 Building and Facilities  
 
4.1  Location  
 
4.1.1  Establishments should be located in  areas which are free from objectionable odour, from 
sources such as refuse dumps, public places of convenience or other contaminants and are 
not subject to flooding.  
 
4.1.2  Septic tanks or other sewage disposal installation should be properly sealed and well 
 ventilated  
 
4.1.3  Free potable water should be readily accessible on the premises.  
 
 
 
4.2 Land Use  
 
Appropriate permits for land use and facilities construction required by local & national regulations should 
be obtained if applicable.  
 
4.3 Construction  
 
4.3.1  Building should be of sound construction, kept  in good condition and comply with national building 
regulations.   
 
4.3.2 working space should allow  for satisfactory performance of all operations.  
 
4.3.3  The facility should comply with the fire , health  and safety  requirements.   
 
 
4.4  Ventilation  
 
 
Building should have adequate ventilation to  main tain proper air quality in line with  national regulations.  
 
4.5  Lighting  
 
4.5.1   Establishment  should have access to adequate natural and/or artificial light in compliance with health 
and safety requirements.  
 
4.5.2  Where appropriate, the lighting should not alter colours.  
 
4.5.3  Light bulbs and fixtures suspended should be of a safety type and protected.  
 
4.5.4   Emergency lighting that shows where the emergency exits can be in the event of a power 
 shortage could be installed.   
  
4.5.5     Emergency exits should be visible and mark ed appropriately.  
 
4.6 Waste Management and Disposal  
 
 
 
 
 
4.6.1    All chemical, flammable, toxic or harmful waste material and sharp objects should be disposed in 
accordance with local hazardous waste management regulations.  
 
4.6.2     Waste should be deposited in sealed containers in demarcated areas  and must be emptied at the 
end of each day and kept clean.  
 
4.6.3      Wastewater should be released in allocated drainage systems .   
 
4.6.4 Wastewater drains should be regularly cleaned and maintained  in accordance  wastewater . 
management regulations.  
 
 
 
4.7 Records Keeping  
 
4.7.1  Records for the materials and components including production records should be stored in a 
safe and dry place.  
4.7.2    Material s and components should be inspected, recorded,  and stored in designated areas . 
4.7.3 Design, design process, garment specification sheets, patterns and other items used for 
production should be well documented and stored adequately.  
 
4.7.4 Pattern pieces and measurements should be clearly labelled . 
 
 
4.7.5 Official records should be kept for all employees.  
 
4.8 Tools, Materials and Equipment  
 
 
4.8.1     Tools should be stored in a manner that it is easily accessible.  
 
4.8.2     Equipment and tools should be corrosion free.  
 
4.8.3     Tools and equipment should be clean, maintained regularly and properly calibrated.  
 
4.8.4  A manual on the use of tools and equipment should be available and well documented  
 
 
5 Health and Safety  
 
5.1 First Aid  
 
5.1.1  First aid kits should be readily and easily accessible.  
 DARS 1599:202 4 
© ARSO 20 24 — All rights reserved   5.1.2  Keep a record of work -related incidents and accidents.  
 
5.1.3  Regularly provide workers with first aid training.  
 
5.1.4  employees should identify all potential hazards and provide appropriate protective gear to 
safeguard the hazards in accordance with OHSA  or ISO 45001  
 
 
5.2 Changing Facilities and Toilets  
 
Adequate, suitable, and conveniently located changing facilities, toilets and showers should be 
provided.  
 
5.3 Fire Safety  
 
5.3.1        Building should comply with the National Fire Safety Regulations  
5.3.2  Provide relevant fire safety training to the workers.  
5.3.3  Conduct firefighting drills and document the reaction.  
5.3.4  Have clearly marked evacuation assembly point.  
 
 
5.4 Emergency Exits  
 
5.4.1  Have clearly marked exits with doors  opening outwards . 
5.4.2  Clearly mark all exits with signs written in language(s) that all workers understand.  
5.4.3  Aisles, exits and stairs should be kept clear from any obstructions that could prevent 
 orderly  evacuation.  
5.4.4       Emergency assembly point should be clearly marked and have staff trained to  access the 
point without limitation.  
5.4.5      Ensure that emergency exits are accessible to a ll workers, including  those with disabilities or 
mobility cha llenges . 
 
6 Garment Manufacturing Process  
 
6.1 Design  
 
Design s for marker making  should be  provided and displayed for efficient manufacturing .  
 
6.2 Measurements  
 
Body dimensions for pattern making should be taken in accordance with ISO 8559 -1. 
 
6.3 Pattern Making  
  
 6.3.1 A production sample should be drafted taking into consideration the garment specification sheet 
or technical package.  
 
6.3.2 Pattern pieces should be marked and labelled clearly . 
 
6.4 Sample making  
 
 
Samples should be made -up for fit and size evaluation and make necessary pattern adjustments for 
production.  
 
6.5 Production Pattern  
 
6.5.1 methods for making the pattern should be appropriate .  
 
6.5.2 The production pattern should include all the essential pattern markings such as grainlines,  
notches, balance points, center front  and center back  information, design name, design code, size and 
number of pieces to be cut . 
 
6.5.3 Should be drafted with additional ease; and seam allowance of at least 7mm  or as specified in 
ISO 4916  for industrial production . 
 
6.5.4 Should have a clear and detailed tech nical package/specification sheet . 
 
6.6 Grading  
 
Grading should maintain the shape, fit, balance  and scale of style details  based on the target market and 
size range .  
 
6.7 Spreading fabric  
 
6.7.1 Plies should  be aligned  in both length  and width  direction.  
  
6.7.2 Fabric  defects/flaws  should  be eliminated  and any faults  identified  on the incoming  fabrics  should  
be tagged  and avoided.  
 
6.7.3 Ply tension  should  be uniform  to avoid  distortion.  
 
6.7.4 Depending on the type of fabric and design to be cut the warp and weft yarn should be  taken into 
consideration when placing the pattern . 
 
6.8 Laying Out  
 
6.8.1 When required, m atch the motifs and design of patterns in the fabric   
 
6.8.2 Larger patterns must be laid first with smaller patterns placed in between economically  to 
maximize fabric usage.  
 
6.8.3 Pattern should be placed according to the design of the fabric.  
 
6.9 Cutting  fabric  
 
6.9.1 Fabrics should be relaxed prior to cutting to ensure that shrinkage is minimized in the garment.  
 
6.9.2 Cutting instruments should be straight and well sharpened.  
 
6.9.3 The cutters should ensure efficiency and avoid wastage . 
 DARS 1599:202 4 
© ARSO 20 24 — All rights reserved   6.10 Sorting/Bundling  
 
All the garments’  components should be:  
 
6.10.1 sorted out as per the color and size using code numbers .  
 
6.10.2 stacked and tied up together based on the sorting criterion . 
 
6.11 Assembling / Sewing  
 
6.11.1 The various parts should be prepared according to the technical package/ garment  specification 
sheet.  
 
6.11.2 The needle tensions must be properly set according to the fabric type.  
 
6.11.3 The sewing should follow the operational breakdown.  
 
6.11.4 Fabric should be properly handled to ensure a straight stitching.  
 
6.11.5 The number of stitch es per inch should be followed according to the technical package  or as 
specified in ISO 4915  
 
6.11.6 Seam type and seam allowances should  be followed according to the technical package or as 
specified in ISO 491 6 
 
6.12 Sewing Quality Inspection  
 
Inspection should be done visually and at random from the point at which the garment is  fully or 80% -90% 
finished to verify their general conformity and appearance as per  agreement between purchase r and 
manufacturer . 
 
 
6.13. Pre-Production Inspection  
 
6.13.1 Pre-production inspection  should be done before production starts . 
 
6.13.2 Pre-production inspection  should be done to cross -check for final verification of bulk fabric and trim 
materials, styling , cutting way, manufacturing details and workmanship of the garment or pre -production 
sample as per customer requirement.  
 
6.14 First Inline Inspection  
 
6.14.1  Inspection should be done at the beginning of first production.  
6.14.2  Inspection should cover mainly the style detail, general appearance, workmanship, 
measurements, fabric quality, trims and components, lot colour, embellishments and washing quality.  
6.14.3  Inspection should be done to identify and distinguish possible discrepancies or variations and 
to do necessary corrections before the bulk production.  
 
 
 
6.15  Second -Inline Production Inspection  
Inspection should be done to ensure initial discrepancies have been corrected and rectified.   
  
6.16  Final Random Inspection  
 
6.16.1    Inspection should be carried out when the production of the total quantity of an order is 
completed.  
6.16.2    Sample lot should be selected from the order and a percentage of the garment should be 
inspected.  
6.16.3  The sampling p ercentage should be as specified in ISO 2859 -1. 
 
6.17 Pressing / Finishing  
 
6.17.1 All undesirable manufacturing creases and wrinkles should be removed.  
 
6.17.2 Pleats should be neatly pressed.  
 
6.17.3 Collars and cuffs should be neatly pressed.  
 
6.17.4 Final pressing should be done to impart a flat appearance to the finished garments.  
 
 
7 Packaging  
 
7.1 The packaging should be agreed between purchaser and manufacturer and of suitable material 
that offers protection during transportation and storage . 
 
7.2 The labelling of the  packag e should  comply with the  requirements of clause 8 . 
 
 
8 Labelling /Marking  
 
8.1 Care -label  
 
Garments should have a care -label that is permanently secured . All care labels and their markings 
should be such that they will normally outlast the garments  and should be of height at least 3 cm. 
 
8.2 Garment  labelling  
 
 
The label shall be  securely attached to the garment and so positioned as to be easily  accessible and  
readable  and shall provide the following information printed in legible and indelible block letters : 
 
a) fabric composition  (%); 
 
b) sizing designation in accordance with ISO 8559 -2 (visible to the consumer) ; 
 
c) care instructions  in accordance with ISO 3758 ; and  
 
d) manufacturers details and  country of  origin . 
 
 DARS 1599:202 4 
© ARSO 20 24 — All rights reserved   8.3 Package  
 
Garments should be individually packed in suitable packaging of relevant size and shape.  
 
Garments of the same type, style, materials, size, make and colour should then be packed in acceptable  
bulk containers for transportation and prevent contamination. Each package and bulk container should be 
clearly  marked with the following information in legible and indelible marking:  
 
a) item description ; 
 
b) size designation ; and  
 
c) manufacturers details and country of origin