DEAS  167: 2019  
ICS 59.080.3 0 
 
 
© EAC 2019                                                                                                                              First Edition 2019   
 DRAFT  EAST AFRICAN STANDARD  
Textiles  — Dera Dress  — Specification  
EAST AFRICAN COMMUNITY  DEAS  167: 2019  
ii © EAC  2019 – All rights reserved  
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 DEAS  167: 2019 
© EAC 2019 – All rights reserved  iii 
 Foreword  
Development of the East African Standards has bee n necessitated by the need for harmonizing requirements 
governing quality of products and services in the East African Community. It is envisaged that through 
harmonized standardization, trade barriers that are encountered when goods and services are excha nged 
within the Community will be removed.  
The Community has established an East African Standards Committee  (EASC)  mandated to develop and 
issue East African Standards  (EAS) . The Committee is composed of representatives of the National 
Standards Bodies i n Partner States, together with the representatives from the public and private sector 
organizations  in the community .  
East African Standards are developed through  Technical Committees that are representative of key 
stakeholders including government, acad emia, consumer groups, private sector and other interested parties. 
Draft East African Standards are circulated to stakeholders through the National Standards Bodies in the 
Partner States. The comments received are discussed and incorporated before finaliz ation of standards, in 
accordance with the Principles and procedures for development of East African Standards.  
East African Standards are subject to review, to keep pace with technological advances. Users of the East 
African Standards are therefore expec ted to ensure that they always have the latest versions of the standards 
they are implementing .  
The committee responsible  for this document is Technical Committee EASC/TC 061, Textiles , textile products 
and accessories . 
Attention is drawn to the possibili ty that some of the elements of this document may be subject of patent 
rights. EAC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.  COMMITTEE DRAFT  EAST AFRICAN STANDARD  DEAS  167:2019 
 
© EAC 2019 – All rights reserved  1 
 Textiles  — Dera Dress — Specification  
1 Scope   
This Draft East African standard specifies the r equirements , sampling and test methods for  Dera dress.  
2 Normative references   
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content constitutes 
requirements of this document.  For dated references, only the ed ition cited applies. For undated references, 
the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.  
ISO 105 -B01, Textiles – Tests for colour fastness – Part B01: Colour fastness to light: Daylight  
ISO 105 -C10,  Textiles – Tests fo r colour fastness – Part C10: Colour fastness to washing with soap or soap 
and soda  
ISO 105 -E04, Textiles – Tests for colour fastness – Part E04: Colour fastness to perspiration  
ISO 105 -X11, Textiles – Tests for colour fastness – Part X11: Colour fastness to hot pressing  
ISO 105 -X12, Textiles – Tests for colour fastness – Part X12: Colour fastness to rubbing  
ISO 3071,  Textiles – Determination of pH of aqueous extract  
ISO 3758,  Textiles – Care labelling code using symbols  
ISO 3801 , Textiles – Woven fabrics – Determination of mass per unit length and mass per unit area  
ISO 5077,  Textiles – Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying  
ISO 6330 , Textiles – Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing  
ISO 13934 -1, Textiles – Tensile pro perties of fabrics – Part 1: Determination of maximum force and elongation 
at maximum force using the strip method  
ISO 13935 -1, Textiles – Seam tensile properties of fabrics and made -up textile articles – Part 1: Determination 
of maximum force using the gr ab method   
ISO 13937 -1, Textiles – Tear properties of fabrics – Part 1: Determination of tear force using ballistic 
pendulum method (Elmendorf)  
ISO 14 362-1, Textiles – Methods for determination of certain aromatic amines derived from azo colourants – 
Part 1: Detection of the use of certain azo colourants accessible with and without extracting the fibres  
ISO 14362 -3, Textiles – Methods for determination of certain aromatic amines derived from azo colourants – 
Part 3: Detection of the use of certain azo colo urants accessible which may release 4 -aminoazobenzene  
ISO 16373 -2, Textiles – Dyestuffs – Part 2: General method for determination of extractable dyestuffs 
including  allergenic and carcinogenic dyestuffs  (method using pyridine -water)   
2 © EAC  2019 – All rights reserved  
 ISO 16373 -3, Textiles – Dyestuffs – Part 3: Method for determination of certain carcinogenic dyestuffs 
(method using trimethylamine/methanol)  
ISO 24153, Random sampling and randomization procedures  
3 Terms and definitions   
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.  
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:  
— ISO o nline browsing platform: available at http://www.iso.org/obp  
3.1  
Dera Dress   
single p iece, long , loose fitting dress made with stitching on the sides , without any shaping  
3.2  
Seam (seaming)   
joint where two sides of a single piece are held together with stitches  
3.3  
Tearing   
sequential breakage of yarns or groups of yarns along a line t hrough a fabric. It is one of the most common 
types of failure in textile materials and in many cases, serves to terminate their useful life  
4 Requirement s 
4.1 General requirements  
When examined the seams shall be of even tension through and loose ends sec urely trimmed off. The seam 
shall be made with safety stitch and number of stitches  shall be four to five per centimetre . The stitching shall 
be made by using spun se wing threads.  
4.2 Specific requir ements  
4.2.1  The Dera dress shall comply with the require ments of Table 1. The permissible tolerances for various 
requirements and the methods of test have also been described in Table 1.  
Table 1 - Specific  requirements of Dera dress fabrics  
S/N Property  Requirements  Test Method  
1  Breaking load, N, min  
Warp  
 Weft    
180 
110    
ISO 13934 -1 
2  Tearing strength both warp and weft N, min 
Median peak value    
12  ISO 13937 -1  
3  Seaming properties, min  
Resistance to opening at seam  N 
(20cm x 8cm)    
110   
ISO 1393 5-1  
© EAC 2019 – All rights reserved  3 
 4  Colour fastness to , min. :  
 Light  
 Washing   
 Hot pressing  
 Rubbing  
 Dry  
 Wet  
 Perspiration    
4  
4  
4 
  
4  
3 
4     
ISO 105 -B01 
ISO 105 -C10 
 ISO 105 -X11 
 
 
ISO 105 -X12 
ISO 105-E04 
5  pH of aqueous extract  6.0 to 8.5  ISO3071  
6  Dimensional change , % max .   ±5   ISO 5077a 
7 Mass per unit area, g/m2, min. 150 ISO 3801  
aUse procedure 4N in ISO 6330 . 
 
4.2.2  The dyed Dera dress shall be free from amines when tested in accordance with ISO 16373 -2 and 
ISO 16373 -3 and carcinogenic dyestuffs  when tested in accordance with  ISO 14 362-1 and ISO  14362 -3. 
5 Labellin g  
5.1  Each pie ce of Dera dress shall be legibly and indelibly labelled  with the following:  
a) description of the material composition  and percentage proportion  
b) manufacturer’s name or reference (initials or trade mark) and if required , supplier’s name or 
reference;  
c) Country of origin;  and 
d) care instructions  in accordance with ISO 3758 . 
5.2 Each bulk container shall have a label firmly attached, bearing the following information:  
a) manufacturer ’s name address and trade mark;  
b) the product  name ‘Dera  dress ’; 
c) number  of pieces;  and 
d) Country of origin;  
6 PACK AGING 
The Dera dresses shall be packed in  suitable packaging material so as to protect the contents from any 
contamination and soiling.  
7 SAMPLING  
Sampling shall be done in accordance with ISO 24153.   
4 © EAC  2019 – All rights reserved  
 7.1  Lot 
The q uantity of the same type and quality delivered to one buyer against one dispat ch note shall constitute a 
lot. 
7.2 The conformity of the lot to the requirements of this  Standard shall be determined on the basis of tests 
carried out on the  samples selected f rom the lot.  
7.3  The number of pieces to be selected at random from a lot shall be in accordance with Table 2 . 
Table 2 – Sampling size and permissible number of non -conforming pieces  
Number of pieces   
in the lot  Sample size  for 
visual inspection   Permis sible no. 
Nonconforming pieces   Sub-sample size for  
testing  
  
Up   to 25  
26   to 50  
51   to 150  
151 to 300  
301 to 500  
501 to 1000  
1000 and above    
3  
5  
8  
13  
20  
32  
50    
0  
0  
0  
1  
1  
2  
3   
2  
2  
3  
3  
5  
5  
8  
 DEAS  167: 2019   
 
© EAC 2019 – All rights reserved