DEAS  342: 202 1 
ICS 71.10 0.70  
 
© EA C 2021                                                                                                                              3rd Edition 202 1  
 DRAFT EAST AFRICAN STANDARD  
Pomades and solid brilliantine s — Specification  
EAST AFRICAN COMMUNITY  DEAS  342: 202 1 
ii © EAC 202 1 – All rights reserved  
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Reproduction for sales purposes may be subject to royalty payments or a licensing agreement.  
Violators may be prosecuted . DEAS  342: 2021 
© EAC 202 1 – All rights reserved  iii 
 Contents  Page 
Foreword  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................  iv 
1 Scope  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ......................  1 
2 Normative references  ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................  1 
3 Terms and definitions  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........................  1 
4 Requirements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .........  2 
4.1 General requirements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........................  2 
4.2 Specific requirements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........................  2 
4.3 microbiological limits ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................  2 
4.4 Heavy metal contaminant s ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................  3 
5 Packaging  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...............  3 
The product shall be packaged in suitable well -sealed containers that shall protect the contents 
and shall not cau se any contamination or react with the product.  ................................ ..................  3 
6 Labelling  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .................  3 
7 Sampling  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................  3 
Annex  A (normative)  Determination of melting point  ................................ ................................ ....................  4 
Annex B (normative)  Determination of sulphated ash  ................................ ................................ ..................  5 
B.1 Reagents  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................  5 
B.2 Procedure  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...............  5 
B.3 Calculation  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .............  5 
Annex C (normative)  Determination of consistency  ................................ ................................ ......................  6 
C.1 Principle  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .................  6 
C.2 Apparatus  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...............  6 
C.3 Procedure  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...............  6 
C.4 Calculation  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .............  7 
Annex D (normative)  Bleed number  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................  8 
Annex E (normative)  Tes t for stability  ................................ ................................ ................................ .............  9 
E.1 Apparatus  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...............  9 
E.2. Procedure  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...............  9 
E.3 Evaluation  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..............  9 
Bibliography  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ......................  10 
 DEAS  342: 202 1 
iv © EAC 202 1 – All rights reserved  
 Foreword  
Development of the East African Standards has been necessitated by the need for harmonizing requirements 
governing quality of products and services in the East African Community. It is envisaged that through 
harmonized standardization, trade barriers that are encountered when goods and services are exchanged 
within the Community will be removed.  
The Community has established an East African Standards Committee  (EASC)  mandated to develop and 
issue East African Standards  (EAS) . The Committee is composed of representatives of the National 
Standards Bodies in Partner States, together with the representatives from the public and private sector 
organizations  in the community .  
East African Standards are developed through  Technical Committees that are representative of key 
stakeholders including government, academia, consumer groups, private sector and other interested parties. 
Draft East African Sta ndards are circulated to stakeholders through the National Standards Bodies in the 
Partner States. The comments received are discussed and incorporated before finalization of standards, in 
accordance with the Principles and procedures for development of Ea st African Standards.  
East African Standards are subject to review, to keep pace with technological advances. Users of the East 
African Standards are therefore expected to ensure that they always have the latest versions of the standards 
they are implemen ting.  
The committee responsible for this document is Technical Committee EASC/TC 071, Cosmetics and related 
products . 
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be subject of patent 
rights. EAC shall not be held r esponsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.  
This third edition cancels and replaces the second  edition ( EAS 342:2013 ), which has been technically 
revised.  
  DRAST AFRICAN STANDARD  DEAS  342: 202 1 
 
© EAC 2021 – All rights reserved  1 
 Pomades and solid brilliantine s — Specification  
1 Scope  
This Draft East African Stand ard specifies requirements , sampling and test methods for pomades and solid 
brilliantine s. 
It applies to pomades and solid brilliantine s which are either vegetable oil or petroleum based but excludes oil 
emulsions.  
This draft East African standard does not  cover liquid brilliantines.  
This Draft East African standard does not cover pomades  and solid brilliantine s for which therapeutic claims 
are made.  
2 Normative references  
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of  their content constitutes 
requirements of this document.  For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, 
the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.  
EAS 346, Labelling of cosmetics — Gene ral requirements  
EAS 377 (all parts), Cosmetics and cosmetic products  
EAS 846 Glossary of terms relating to the cosmetic industry   
EAS 847 -13, Cosmetics —Analytical methods —Part 13: Determination of rancidity  
EAS 847 -16, Cosmetics —Analytical methods —Part 16: Determination of lead, mercury and arsenic content  
EAS 847 -22, Cosmetics —Analytical methods —Part 22: Determination  of sulphurs and sulphides in oils  
ISO 18416, Cosmetics —Microbiology —Detection of Candida albicans  
ISO 21149, Cosmetics --Microbiolo gy --Enumeration and detection of aerobic mesophilic bacteria  
ISO 22717, Cosmetics —Microbiology —Detection of Pseudomonas aeruginosa  
ISO 22718, Cosmetics —Microbiology —Detection of Staphylococcus aureus  
ISO 24153, Random sampling and randomization proce dures  
3 Terms and definitions  
For the purposes of this document, the terms and definitions given in EAS 846 and the following apply . 
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:   
2 © EAC 202 1 – All rights reserved  
 — ISO Online browsing platform: available at http://www.iso.org/obp  
3.1  
brilliantine  
hair-grooming product intended to soften hair  and give it a glossy  appearance  
3.2  
pomade  
greasy, waxy, or a water -based substance that is used to style hair 
4 Requirements  
4.1 General requirements  
4.1.1  All ingredients used in the manufacture of pomades and  solid brilliantine s shall comply with all parts of 
EAS 377 . 
4.1.2  The pomade and solid brilliantine  shall be in the form of a soft, homogenous unctuou s mass.  
4.2 Specific requirements  
The pomades and solid brilliantine s shall comply with the specific  requirements given in Table 1 when tested 
according to the methods prescribed therein.  
Table 1 — Specific  requirements for pomades and  solid  brilliantines  
S.No.  Characteristic  Requirement  Test method  
i) Melting point, °C  38 - 60 Annex A   
ii) Sulphated ash, % by mass, max  0.10 Annex B  
iii) Sulphur and sulphide s  To pass the test  EAS 847 -22 
iv) Consistency , 1/10 mm  100 - 275 Annex C 
v) Test for rancid ity  Shall be free from rancidity  EAS 847 -13 
vi) Bleed number  5 to 15  Annex D 
vii) Stability  To pass the test  Annex E 
 
 
4.3 microbiological limits  
Pomades and  solid brilliantine s shall also comply with the microbiological limits given in Table 2 when tested 
in accordance with the methods indicated therein .  
© EAC 202 1 – All rights reserved  3 
 Table 2 — Microbiological limits  for pomades and  solid  brilliantine s 
Micro -organisms  Limits , max.  Test method  
Total viable count , CFU/g or CFU/ml, 
max.  100  ISO 21149  
Pseudomonas aeruginosa  Not detected  in 1 ml or 1 g of cosmetic 
product  ISO 22717  
Staphylococcus aureus  ISO 22718  
Candida albicans  ISO 18416  
Escherichia coli  Not detected in 1 g of cosmetic 
product  ISO 21150  
 
 
4.4 Heavy metal contaminants  
The pomade and solid brilliantine  shall comply with the limits for heavy metal contaminants in accordance with 
Table 3.  
Table 3 — Limits for heavy metal contaminants  of pomades and solid brilliantines  
S.No.  Characteristic , max  Maximum Limit , 
Mg/kg  Test method  
i) Lead  10  EAS 847-16 
ii) Arsenic 2  
iii) Mercur y 2  
NOTE  The total amount of heavy metals as lead, mercury and arsenic, in combination, in the finished product should not 
exceed 10 mg/kg. 
5 Packaging  
The product shall be packaged in suitable well -sealed containers that shall pro tect the contents and shall not 
cause any contamination or react with the product.  
6 Labelling  
In additional to the labelling requirements given in  EAS 346 , the package shall be legibly and indelibly  marked 
with the product name as “pomade ” or “ Solid brilliantine”  
7 Sampling  
Sampling shall be carried in accordance with ISO 24153 .  
4 © EAC 202 1 – All rights reserved  
 Annex  A 
(normative)  
 
Determination of melting point   
A.1 Heat a quantity of the sample on a water bath while stirring until it reaches a temperature of 90 °C to 92 
°C. Cool the m olten sample to a temperature of 8 °C to 10 °C above the expected melting point. Chill the bulb 
of a thermometer (range 1 °C to 100 °C) to 5 °C, wipe it dry and while it is still cold, dip it into the molten 
sample so that approximately half of the bulb is  submerged. Withdraw it immediately and hold it vertically 
away from heat until the wax surface dulls, then dip it for 5 min into a water bath having a temperature not 
higher than 16 °C.  
A.2 Fix the thermometer prepared in securely in a test tube so that i ts lowest point is about 15 mm above 
the bottom of the test tube. Suspend the test tube in a water bath adjusted to 16 °C and raise the temperature 
of the bath at a rate of 2 °C per minute upto 30 °C, then change the rate of rise to 1 °C per min and note t he 
temperature at which the first drop of the melted sample leaves the thermometer. Repeat the determination 
twice on a freshly melted portion of the sample. If the variation in three determinations is less than 1 °C take 
the average of the three as the me lting point. If the variation in three determinations is more than 1 °C, make 
two additional determinations and take the average of five.   
© EAC 202 1 – All rights reserved  5 
 Annex B  
(normative)  
 
Determination of sulphated ash  
B.1 Reagents  
Dilute sulphuric acid, approximately 5 N  
B.2 Procedur e 
Heat a porcelain or silica dish of 50 mL to 100 mL capacity to redness; cool in a desiccator and weigh. Place  
about 20 g of the sample, accurately weighed, in the dish. Heat the dish gently by means of a Bunsen burner  
until the oil can be ignited at the surface. Remove the burner and allow the oil to burn completely, taking care  
that all the free carbon on the sides of the dish is completely burnt. Heat the residue with a strong flame or in a  
muffle furnace until all the carbonaceous matter has disappeare d. Cool the dish; add a few drops of dilute  
sulphuric acid; heat gently to drive off the acid and then heat strongly. Cool the dish again in the desiccator  
and weigh it. Repeat the heating, cooling and weighing until constant mass is obtained.  
B.3 Calculat ion 
The sulphated ash content shall be calculated as follows  
Sulphated ash, % by mass  = 
  
where  
M1 is the mass in g of the residue, and  
M2 is the mass in g of the sample taken for the test .  
6 © EAC 202 1 – All rights reserved  
 Annex C 
(normative)  
 
Determination of consistency  
C.1 Principle  
Measuring penetration makes determination of consistency of the material of a standard cone at 25.0 °C ± 0.5 
°C. 
C.2 Apparatus  
C.2.1 Penetrometer  
Any suitable penetrometer which permits the specified cone to drop vertically without appreciable friction for at 
least 40 mm and which indicates accurately the depth of penetration to the nearest 0.1 mm. The instrument 
shall have a table to carry the test sample that may be adjusted to the horizontal before conducting the test. A 
mechanism for releasi ng and clamping the loaded cone shall be provided.  
C.2.2 Cone  
Consisting of a conical body of brass or corrosion resistant steel with detachable hardened steel up. The total 
moving mass, namely, that of the cone and its movable attachments shall be 150.0 g  ± 0.1 g. The 
attachments consist of a rigid shaft having a suitable device at its lower end for engaging the cone. The outer 
surface shall be polished to a very smooth finish.  
C.2.3 Constant temperature bath  
A water bath capable of regulating the temperat ure at 25. °C and of suitable design for conveniently brining 
the sample container to the test temperature. The bath should be provided with a cover to maintain the 
temperature of the air above the sample at 25 °C.  
C.2.4 Timing device  
A stopwatch or any ot her suitable instrument capable of measuring an interval of 5 s to an accuracy of 0.2 s  
C.2.5 Sample container  
Flat-bottomed; metal or glass cylinders that are 100 mm ± 5 mm in diameter and not less than 60 mm in 
height.  
C.3 Procedure  
C.3.1 Melt a quantity  of the sample at 82.0 °C ± 2.5 °C, pour into one or more of the sample containers, 
filling to within 6 mm of the brim. Cool at 25.0 °C ± 0.5 °C over a period of not less than 16 h, protecting from 
draughts. 2 h before the test; place the containers in a w ater bath at 25.0 °C ± 0.5 °C. If the room temperature 
is below 23.5 °C or above 26.5 °C, adjust the temperature of the cone to 25.0 °C ± 0.5 °C by placing it in a 
water bath.  
C.3.2 Without disturbing the surface of the sample, place the container on the p enetrometer table, and lower 
the cone until the tip just touches the top surface of the sample at a spot 25 nm to 39 mm from the edge of the 
container. Adjust the zero setting and quickly release the plunger, then hold it free for 5 s. Secure the plunger,   
© EAC 202 1 – All rights reserved  7 
 and read the total penetration from the scale. Make three of more trails each so spaced that there is no 
overlapping of the areas of penetration. Where the penetration exceeds 20 mm, use a separate container of 
the sample for each trial. Read the penetrati on to the nearest 0.1 mm. Calculate the average of three or more 
readings; and conduct further trials to a total of 10 if the individual results differ from the average by more than 
± 3 %. 
C.4 Calculation  
The consistency shall be calculated as follows:  
Consistency = 10A  
where  
A is the mean of all the values of penetration in mm   
8 © EAC 202 1 – All rights reserved  
 Annex D 
(normative ) 
 
Bleed number  
Procedure  
Heat the sample to 95 °C. Then allow to cool to 100 °C above its melting point. Dip a glass tube (or internal 
diameter 4 mm and wall thic kness 1 mm) into the sample so that when it is removed with the upper end 
closed with a finger, it contains approximately 25 mm column of molten sample. From approximately 12 mm 
above the filter paper (Whatman No. 1 or equivalent), allow 5 evenly spaced dr ops of the sample to fall 
separately on the paper. The droplets should have a diameter of 6 mm - 8 mm. When the droplets solidify, 
place the paper on a watch glass and insert in an oven kept at 30 °C for 24 h. After 24 h, determine the 
diameter of each dro plet plus the oil ring which surrounds it. Subtract the diameter of the droplet from the oil 
ring and record the result in mm. Calculate the average of these result in milimetres.   
© EAC 202 1 – All rights reserved  9 
 Annex E 
(normative)  
 
Test for stability  
E.1 Apparatus  
Ultra violet lamp , with emission at 360 mm  
E.2. Procedure  
Place 50 mL of the material in a 100 - mL glass beaker. Turn on the ultra violet lamp and expose the samples 
at a distance of 12 cm - 14 cm below the lamp for 6 h. After the specified time, remove the sample, cool to 
room  temperature and compare for any change in odour or colour. The same volume of material shall be 
employed for all tests so that comparison is ensured on a reproducible basis.  
NOTE  — The output of the ultra violet lamp diminishes with time in service. A log  of number of hours of the lamp in use 
should be maintained. The lamp is to be replaced after the specified hours of service, as recommended by the lamp 
manufacturer.  
E.3 Evaluation  
Evaluation is done by comparing the test material against an unexposed spe cimen from the same sample.   
10 © EAC 202 1 – All rights reserved  
 Bibliography  
EAS 342: 2013 , Pomades and brilliantine s — Specification  
IS 9339:1988, Specification for Pomades and brilliantines  
 DEAS  342: 202 1   
 
© EAC 2020  – All rights reserved