ICS 71.100.70 
 
Reference number  
DRS 489: 2023  
© RSB 2023  
  
 RWANDA 
STANDARD            DRS 
489-6  
 
First edition  
2023 -mm-dd 
 
Oils for cosmetic use — Specification  — 
Part 6: Calabash  oil 
   
DRS 489-6: 2023  
©RSB 2023  - All rights reserved                  ii 
 In order to match with technological development and to keep continuous progress in industries, 
standards are subject to periodic review. Users shall ascertain that they are in possession of the latest 
edition  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
© RSB 2023  
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, no part of this publication may be reproduced or utilized 
in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and microfilm, without 
prior written permission from R SB. 
Requests for permission to reproduce this document should be addressed to : 
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E-mail: info@rsb.gov.rw  
Website: www.rsb.gov.rw  
ePortal: www.portal.rsb.gov.rw   DRS 489-6: 2023  
iii                ©RSB 2023  - All rights reserved  
 Contents  Page 
Foreword  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................  iv 
1 Scope  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ......................  1 
2 Normative references  ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................  1 
3 Terms and definitions  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........................  2 
4 Requirements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .........  2 
4.1 General requirements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........................  2 
4.2 Specific requirements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........................  3 
5 Packaging  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...............  4 
6 Labelling  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .................  4 
7 Sampling  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................  4 
Annex  A (normative)  Determination of critical solution temperature  ................................ ..........................  5 
A.1 Reagent  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..................  5 
A.2 Procedure  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...............  5 
 DRS 489-6: 2023  
©RSB 2023  - All rights reserved                  iv 
 Foreword   
Rwanda Standard s are prepared  by Technical Committees and approved by Rwanda Standards Board (RSB) 
Board  of Directors in  accordance with the procedures of RSB, in compliance with Annex 3 of the WTO/TBT 
agreement on the preparation, adoption and application of standards.  
The main task of technical committees is to prepare national standards.  Final Draft Rwanda S tandards 
adopted by Technical committ ees are ratified  by me mbers of RSB Board of Director s for publication and 
gazettment as Rwanda Standards.  
DRS 489−6 was prepared by Technical Committee RSB/TC 011, Cosmetics and related products . 
This first edition cancels and replaces the first edition of RS 389: 2019 , of which has been technically revised.  
DRS  489 consists of the following parts, under the general title Oils for cosmetic use — Specification:  
⎯ Part 1: Baobab seed oil  
⎯ Part 2: Chia seeds oil  
⎯ Part 3: Passion fruits (maracuja) seed oil  
⎯ Part 4: Castor oil  
⎯ Part 5: Macadamia oil  
Committee membership  
The following organizations were represented on the Technical Committee on Cosmetics and Related 
Products  (RSB/TC 011) in the preparation of this standard.  
ALYVO RWANDA Ltd  
Beauty Makers Association (BMA)  
GAKO Organic Farming Training Center (GOFTC/Rwanda All Green Investment Ltd)  
J&K 
KAN-HAN Ltd  
MORIJA Cosmetics/Morija Supply Ltd  DRS 489-6: 2023  
v                ©RSB 2023  - All rights reserved  
 National Industrial Research and Development Agency (NIRDA)  
PHARMACIE NOVA  
Rwanda Agriculture Livestock Inspection and Certification Services (RALIS)  
Rwanda Biomedical Center (RBC)  
SULFO Rwanda Industries  
Trust Industries Ltd  
University of Rwanda/College of Science and Technology (UR/CST)  
Rwanda Forensic Laboratory (RFL)  
Rwanda Inspectorate, Competition and Consumer Protection Authority (RICA)  
Rwanda  Standards Board  (RSB) – Secretariat  DRS 489-6: 2023  
©RSB 2023  - All rights reserved                  vi 
 Introduction   
Calabash ( Lagenaria sphaerica  – Umutanga)  is an annual herbaceous climber coming from Cucurbitaceae  
family which has traditionally been collected in Rwanda and used for medicinal purposes as a soothing and 
healing agent. Calabash oil contains more than 55 % of unsaturated fatty acids. The major unsaturated 
components are linoleic acid (omega -3) and oleic acid (omega -9) and sterolic compounds such as  spinasterol.  
These plants are generally found in low -lying areas from the Eastern Cape of South Africa to East Africa.  They 
may grow along river floodplains or up into the canopy of riparian forests. They may also be found in coastal 
dune vegetation.  
Calabash oil is extremely rich in fatty acid content.  These acids not produced by the body, must be 
supplemented to maintain the health and appearance of the skin and hair. They are essential to maintaining 
normal cell renewal and optimal moisture content of the epidermal skin barrier.  
The composition of Calabash makes it a valuable ingredient in hair conditioning and moisturizing hair and 
scalp formulations.  Linoleic acid has antioxidant and anti -inflammatory properties making it useful for dry, 
scaly skin conditions. Other present compounds provide soothing effects and defence against infection.  
 
 DRS 489-6: 2023  
1                ©RSB 2023  - All rights reserved  
 Oils for cosmetic use — Specification  — Part 6: Calabash  oil 
1 Scope  
This Draft Rwanda  Standard  specifies the requirements, sampling and test method for calabash oil for 
cosmetic industry.  This standard does not cover the calabash oil for which therapeutic claims are made.  
2 Normative references  
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some  or all of  their content constitutes 
requirements of this document.  For dated references, only the edition  cited applies. For undated references, 
the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.  
RS EAS 346, Labelling of cosmetics — General requirements  
RS EAS 846, Glossary of terms relating to the cosmetic industry  
RS EAS 847 – 2, Cosmetics — Analytical methods — part 2: Determination  of moisture content and volatile 
matter content  
RS EAS 847 -5, Cosmetics — Analytical methods — Part 5: Determination of unsaponifiable matter  
RS EAS 847 -7, Cosmetics — Analytical methods — Part 7: Determination of specific gravity  
RS EAS 847 -9, Cosmetics — Analytical methods — Part 9: Determination of colour  
RS EAS 847 -10, Cosmetics — Analytical methods — Part 10: Determination of acetyl value and hydroxyl 
value  
RS EAS 847 -12, Cosmetic — Analytic methods — Part 12: Determination of flash point by Pensky — Martens 
Closed Cap Tester   
RS EAS 847 -13, Cosmetic — Analytic methods — Part 13: Determination of rancidity  
RS EAS 847 -16, Cosmetic — Analytic methods — Part 16: Determination of lead, mercury and arsenic 
content  
RS ISO 22717, Cosmetics — Microbiology — Detection of Pseudomonas aeruginosa  
RS ISO 2271 8, Cosmetics — Microbiology — Detection of Staphylococcus aureus  
RS ISO 18416 , Cosmetics — Microbiology — Detection of Candida albicans  
  
©RSB 2023  - All rights reserved                  2 
 RS ISO 660, Animal and vegetable fats and oils — Determination of acid value and acidity  
RS ISO 663, Animal and vegetable fats and oils — Determination of insoluble impurities content  
RS ISO 3657, Animal and vegetable fats and oils — Determination of saponification value  
RS ISO 3961, Animal and vegetable fats and oils — Determination of iodine value  
RS ISO 6320, Animal and vegetable fats and oils — Determination of refractive index  
RS 278, Cosmetics — Methods of sampling  
RS ISO 6887 -1, Microbiology of food and animal feeding stuffs — Preparation of test samples, initial 
suspension and decimal dilutions for microbiological examination — Part 1: General rules for preparation of 
the initial suspensions and decimal dilutions  
3 Terms and definitions   
For the purposes of this standard, the terms and definitions given in RS EAS 846  and the following apply . 
calabash oil  
pure refined oil obtained from the seeds of the Lagenaria sphaerica  (Umutanga) tree, an annual herbaceous 
climber coming from Cucurbitaceae family which is generally found in low -lying areas from the Eastern Cape 
of South Africa to East Africa.  
4 Requirements  
4.1 General requirements  
4.1.1  The product shall be calabash oil obtained from seed of the calabash tree (Lagenaria sphaerica – 
Umutanga), by a cold or heat pressing, followed by a full refining process to render an oil which is light in 
colour and mild in colour.  
4.1.2 When examined visually, the product shall be:  
a) clear ; 
b) free from sediments and other foreign matter;  
c) free from water, colouring and flavouring substances; and  
d) free from admixture with other oils.  
 DRS 489-6: 2023  
3                ©RSB 2023  - All rights reserved  
  
 
 
4.2  Specific requirements  
4.2.1 The product shall comply with the requirements given in Table 1 when tested in accordance with the 
methods specified therein.  
Table 1 — Specific r equirements for calabash oil for cosmetic use 
S/N Parameter s  Requirements  Test method  
i. i Moisture content, % m/m, max.  0.1 RS EAS 847 -2 
ii. i
i Insoluble impurities, % m/m, max.  0.25 RS ISO 663  
iii. i
i
i Colour in a 1" cell on the Lovibond 
scale, expressed as Y + 5R, max. 
deepness  4.0 RS EAS 847 -9 
iv. i
v Refractive index at 20 oC, range  1.4650 – 1.4800 RS ISO 6320  
v. v Specific gravity at 20 oC, range  0.915 – 0.930 RS EAS 847 -7 
vi. v
i Saponification value, range  185 - 197 RS ISO 3657  
vii. v
i
i Iodine value, range  120 - 145 RS ISO 3961  
viii. v
i
i
i Acid value, max.  10 RS ISO 660  
ix. i
x Unsapnifiable matter, % m/m, max.  1.5 RS EAS 847 -5 
x. x Acetyl value, min.  143 RS EAS 847 -10 
xi. x
i Flash point, oC (Pensky Martens 
closed), min.  250 RS EAS 847 -12 
xii. x
i
i Test for rancidity  Shall be free from 
rancidity  RS EAS 847 -13 
xiii. x
i
i
i Critical solution temperature,  oC 
max.  0 Annex A 
  
©RSB 2023  - All rights reserved                  4 
 4.2.2 The products shall comply with the limits for heavy metal contaminants in accordance with Table 2,  
when tested in accordance with the methods specified therein.  
Table 2 — Limits for heavy metal contaminants for ca labash  oil for cosmetic use  
S/N Characteristics  Maximum limit (mg/kg)  Test method  
i. i Lead  10 
RS EAS 847 -16 ii. i
i Arsenic  2 
iii. i
i
i Mercury  2 
-  The total amount of heavy metals as lead, mercury and arsenic, in combination, in the finished 
product should not exceed 10 mg/kg.  
- The heavy metals including lead, mercury and arsenic may be as a result of contamination 
during processing and should not be deliberately added as ingredients.  
4.2.3 The products shall also comply with the microbiological limits given in Table 3 when tested in 
accordance with the methods specified therein.  
Table 3 — Microbiological limits for Calabash oil  for cosmetic use  
S/N Microorganism  Maximum l imit 
 Test method  
i.    Total viable count for aerobic mesophyllic micro - organisms  per g . 100 RS ISO 6887 -1 
ii.  Pseudomonas aeruginosa  Not detected in 0.5 g  RS ISO 22717  
iii.  Staphylococcus aureus  RS ISO 22718  
iv.  Candida albicans  RS ISO 18416  
5 Packaging  
The product shall be packaged in suitable well -sealed containers that shall protect the contents and shall not 
cause any contamination or react with the products.  
6 Labelling  
6.1 In addition to the requirements of RS EAS 346, the Material Safety Data Sheet shall be provided.  
6.2 The phrase ‘For external use only’ shall be conspicuously marked (either printed on the label affixed to 
the container, or lithographed, or stencilled thereon with indelible ink).  
7 Sampling  
Random samples of the product shall be drawn for test in accordance with RS 278 from the market or factory.  DRS 489-6: 2023  
5                ©RSB 2023  - All rights reserved  
 Annex  A 
(normative)  
 
Determination of critical solution temperature  
A.1 Reagent  
The reagent shall be prepared by diluting ethyl  alcohol or rectified spirit with distilled water till the relative 
density of the mixture at 15.5 oC is 0.8303 ± 0.0001, when compared with distilled water at the same 
temperature. De -natured alcohol shall not be used for this test.  
A.2 Procedure  
Mix in a test tube, 1.0 g of the oil, with 4.15 times its mass of the reagent. Upon examination, the solution thus 
obtained shall be perfectly clear at 20 oC and shall remain clear when cooled and maintained for 5 minutes at 
a temperature of 0 oC. 
 
 
   
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 DRS 489-6: 2023  
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 Bibliography  
[1] Danjuma, M.N. and Dandago 2009, M.A., Extraction and characterization of calabash seed oil  
 DRS 489-6: 2023  
 
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