DEAS 786: 2021  
ICS 70.100.70 
 
© EAC 2021                                                                                                                               2nd Edition 2021   
 DRAFT EAST AFRICAN STANDARD  
Skincare creams, lotions and gels  — Specification  
EAST AFRICAN COMMUNITY   
 DEAS 786: 2021  
ii © EAC  2021  – All rights reserved  
 Copyright notice  
This EAC document is copyright -protected by EAC. While the reproduction of this document by 
participants in the EAC standards developme nt process is permitted without prior permission from EAC, 
neither this document nor any extract from it may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form for 
any other purpose without prior written permission from EAC.  
Requests for permission to reprod uce this document for the purpose of selling it should be addressed 
as shown below or to EAC’s member body in the country of the requester:  
© East African Com munity 2021  — All rights reserved  
East African Community   
P.O. Box 1096 , 
Arusha  
Tanzania  
Tel: + 255 27 2 162100  
Fax: + 255 27 2162190  
E-mail: eac@eachq.org  
       Web: www.eac -quality.net  
Reproduction for sales purposes may be subject to royalty payments or a licensing agreement.  
Violators may be prosecuted . DEAS 876: 2021  
© EAC 2021  – All rights reserved  iii 
 Contents  Page 
Foreword  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................... iv 
1 Scope  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................ 1 
2 Normative references  ................................ ................................ ................................ ....................... 1 
3 Terms and definitions  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................... 1 
4 Requirements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...2 
4.1 General requirements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................... 2 
4.2 Specific requirements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................... 2 
4.3 Microbiological limits  ................................ ................................ ................................ ....................... 3 
4.4 Heavy metal contam inants  ................................ ................................ ................................ ............... 4 
5 Packaging  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ......... 4 
6 Labelling  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ........... 4 
7 Sampling  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ........... 5 
Annex  A (normative)  Determination of total fatty substance content  ................................ ....................... 6 
A.1 Outline of the method ................................ ................................ ................................ ....................... 6 
A.2 Reagents  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ........... 6 
A.3 Procedure  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ......... 6 
C.4 Calculation  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ........ 6 
Bibliography  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .................. 7 
 DEAS 786: 2021  
iv © EAC  2021  – All rights reserved  
 Foreword  
Development of the East African Standards has been necessitated by the need for harmonizing requirements 
governing quality of products and services in the East African Community. It is envisaged that thr ough 
harmonized standardization, trade barriers that are encountered when goods and services are exchanged 
within the Community will be removed.  
The Community has established an East African Standards Committee  (EASC)  mandated to develop and 
issue East Af rican Standards  (EAS) . The Committee is composed of representatives of the National 
Standards Bodies in Partner States, together with the representatives from the public and private sector 
organizations  in the community .  
East African Standards are develop ed through  Technical Committees that are representative of key 
stakeholders including government, academia, consumer groups, private sector and other interested parties. 
Draft East African Standards are circulated to stakeholders through the National Stand ards Bodies in the 
Partner States. The comments received are discussed and incorporated before finalization of standards, in 
accordance with the Principles and procedures for development of East African Standards.  
East African Standards are subject to rev iew, to keep pace with technological advances. Users of the East 
African Standards are therefore expected to ensure that they always have the latest versions of the standards 
they are implementing . 071 , Cosmetics and related products . 
This third edition ca ncels and replaces the first  edition ( EAS 876:2013 ), which has been technically revised . 
 DRAFT EAST AFRICAN STANDARD  DEAS 876:2021  
 
© EAC 2021  – All rights reserved  1 
 Skincare creams, lotions and gels  — Specification  
1 Scope   
This Draft East African Standard specifies requirements , sampling and test methods for creams, lotions and 
gels for skincare.  
This standard does not apply to skincare products, for which therapeutic claims are made . 
This standard does not apply to anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, sun protection products, aromatherap y substances  
and Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)  
2 Normative references   
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content constitutes 
requirements of this document.  For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, 
the latest editi on of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.  
EAS 346, Labelling of cosmetics — General requirements  
EAS 377 (all parts), Cosmetics and cosmetic products  
EAS 846 Glossary of terms relating to the cosmetic industry   
EAS 847 -1, Cosmetics Analytical methods Part 1: Glossary of terms  
EAS 847 -16, Cosmetics —Analytical methods —Part 16: Determination of lead, mercury and arsenic content  
EAS 847 -17, Cosmetics —Analytical methods —Part 17: Determination of pH  
EAS 847 -18, Cosmetics —Analytical me thods —Part 18: Determination of thermal stability  
ISO 18416, Cosmetics —Microbiology —Detection of Candida albicans  
ISO 21149, Cosmetics --Microbiology --Enumeration and detection of aerobic mesophilic bacteria   
ISO 22717, Cosmetics —Microbiology —Detecti on of Pseudomonas aeruginosa  
ISO 22718, Cosmetics —Microbiology —Detection of Staphylococcus aureus  
ISO 24153, Random sampling and randomization procedures  
3 Terms and definitions   
For the purposes of this document, the terms and definitions given in EAS 8 46 and the following apply.  
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:  
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at http://www.iso.org/obp  DEAS 786: 2021  
2 © EAC  2021  – All rights reserved  
 3.1 
cream  
semi -solid emulsion which contain mixtures of oil and water  as a cosmetic preparation applied to the skin . 
Examples include vanishing creams, foundation creams, cold creams, night creams, moisturizer  creams , hand  
creams, face creams, body creams, toning creams, em ollient  cream s, purifier  cream s, nourisher  cream s, 
facial scrub  cream s, facial mask  cream s, facial wash cream s and such products among others.  
3.2 
lotion  
thick, smooth liquid preparation designed to be applied to the skin for cosmetic purposes. Examples in clude 
vanishing lotions, foundation lotions, cold lotions, night lotions, moisturizers, cleanser  lotion s, hands lotions, 
face lotions, body lotions, toner  lotion s, emollients, purifiers, and nourishers and such products among others . 
3.3 
gel 
semi -solid col loidal suspension of a solid dispersed in a liquid  to be applied to the skin for cosmetic purposes  
4 Requirements   
4.1 Ingredients  
All ingredients used including dyes, pigments and colours shall comply with all parts of EAS 377.  
4.2 General requirements  
4.2.1 The preparation shall be clear or of uniform colour.  
4.2.2 The cream, lotion or gel shall be free from visible impurities.  
4.3 Specific requirements  
4.3.1  The skincare creams and lotions, shall comply with the specific requirements given in Table 1 whe n 
tested in accordance with the test methods specified therein.  DEAS 876: 2021  
© EAC 2021  – All rights reserved  3 
 Table 1 — Specific requirements for skincare creams  and lotions  
S/No. Characteristic  Requirement  Test Method  
i) Thermal stability  To pass test  EAS 847 -18 
ii) pH range  Adult  products   4.5 - 8.5  
EAS 847 -17 Baby products   5.0 - 8.5 
Skin lightening products  3.5 – 8.5 
iii) Total fatty substance 
content, % by mass, min  5 Annex A  
iv) Hydroquinone content  Not detected  Annex B 
  
4.3.2  Non-emulsified products and gels shall comply with th e specific requirements given in Table 2 when 
tested in accordance with the test methods specified therein.  
Table 2 — Specific requirements for non-emulsified products and gels  
S/No.  Characteristic  Requirement  Test Method  
i pH range  Non skin lightening  
products   4.5 - 8.5 EAS 847 -17 
Skin lightening 
products  3.5 - 8.5 
ii Hydroquinone content  Not detected  Annex B  
 
4.4 Microbiological limits  
The skincare creams, lotions and gels shall comply with the microbiological limits given in Table 3 when tested 
in accordance with the test methods specified therein . DEAS 786: 2021  
4 © EAC  2021  – All rights reserved  
 Table 3 — Microbiological limits  for skincare creams, lotions and gels  
S.No.  Micro -organisms  Limits  Test methods  
i) Total viable count for aerobic mesophyllic 
microorganisms CFU/g or CFU/ml, max.  100 ISO 21149  
ii) Pseudomonas aeruginosa   
Not detectable in 1 ml or 
1g of cosmetic product  ISO 22717  
iii) Staphylococcus aureus  ISO 22718  
iv) Candida albicans  ISO 18416  
v) Escherichia coli Not detected in 1 g of 
cosmetic product  ISO 21150  
 
 
4.5 Heavy me tal contaminants  
The skincare creams, lotions and gels shall comply with the heavy metal limits given in Table 4 when tested in 
accordance with the test methods specified therein.  
Table 4 — Heavy metal limits  for skincare creams, lotions and gels  
S/No.  Heavy metal  Limita, mg/kg , max Test method  
i) Lead  10 EAS 847-16 
ii) Arsenic  2 
iii) Mercury  2 
aThe total amount of heavy metals as lead, mercury and arsenic, in combination in the finished product shall not exceed 
10 mg/kg.  
 
5 Packaging  
The product sha ll be packaged in suitable well -sealed containers that shall protect the contents and shall not  
cause any contamination or react with the product.  
6 Labelling  
In addition to the labelling requirements given in EAS 346, each package shall be legibly and ind elibly marked 
with the following  
a) product name as “ cream ”,” lotion” or “gel” ; and  
b) an indication on whether the product is skin lightening . 
 DEAS 876: 2021  
© EAC 2021  – All rights reserved  5 
 7 Sampling  
Sampling shall be carried in accordance with ISO 24153 . DEAS 786: 2021  
6 © EAC  2021  – All rights reserved  
 Annex  A 
(normative)  
 
Determination of total fatty  substance content  
A.1 Outline of the method  
The emulsion is broken with dilute mineral acid and the fatty matter is extracted with petroleum ether. It is  
weighed after removal of the solvent.  
A.2 Reagents  
A.2.1 Dilute hydrochloric acid 1:1 (v/v)  
A.2.2 Petroleum  ether , B.P. 40 °C to 60 °C  
A.2.3 Methyl orange indicator solution — Dissolve 0.1 g of methyl orange in 100 mL of water.  
A.2.4 Sodium sulphate, desiccated  
A.3 Procedure  
Weigh accurately about 2 g of the material into a conical flask; add 25 mL of dil ute hydrochloric acid, fit a  
reflux condenser into the flask and boil the contents until the solution is perfectly clear. Pour the contents of  
the flask into a 300 mL separation funnel and allow it to cool to 20 °C. Rinse the conical flask with 50 mL of  
petroleum ether in portions of 10 mL. Pour the ether rinsings into the separation funnel shake the separation  
funnel well and leave until the layers separate. Separate out the aqueous phase and shake it out with 50 mL  
portions of ether twice. Combine all the  ether extracts and wash them with water until free of acid (when  
tested with methyl orange indicator solution). Filter the ether extracts through a filter paper containing sodium  
sulphate into a conical flask which has been previously dried at a temperatu re of 60 °C ± 2 °C and then  
weighed. Wash the sodium sulphate on the filter with ether and combine the washings with the filtrate. Distil  
off the ether and dry the material remaining in the flask at a temperature of 60 °C ± 2 °C to constant mass.  
C.4 Calcu lation  
The total fatty substance shall be calculated as follows  
Total fatty substance, percent by mass =  
  
where:  
m1 mass, in grams, of the residue, and  
m2  mass, in grams, of the material taken for the test.  
 DEAS 876: 2021  
© EAC 2021  – All rights reserved  7 
 Annex  B 
(normative)  
 
Determin ation of hydroqui none  content  
B.1 Principle  
Hydroquinone is extracted from the cosmetic product  using a mixture of water and methanol in the ratio of 
20:80 in an ultrasonic bath for 20 minutes. Determination of the analyte in the resulting solution is performed 
by reverse phase HPLC equipped with UV/VIS detector at a wavelength of 295nm.  
B.2 Reagents  
B.2.1 HPLC g rade water.  
B.2.2 HPLC grade methanol  
B.2.3 Hydroquinone standard, purity 99.9+%  
B.2.4 HPLC grade acetonitrile  
B.2.5 Mobile phase Methanol/Water (80/20).  
B.3 Apparatus  
B.3.1 HPLC equipped with UV/VIS detector  
B.3.2 Analytical balance with accuracy of ±0. 0001g  
B.3.3 Ultrasonic bath  
B.3.4 Amber volumetric flasks, 10 mL, 1000 mL.  
B.3.5 10 mL and 100 mL beaker  
B.3.6 250 mL measuring cylinder  
B.3.7 0.45 µm Teflon syringe filters.  
B.3.8 Aluminium foil paper.  
B.3.9 10 mL glass syringe  
B.3.10 Stainless steel col umn, length 150 mm, internal diameter 4.6 mm, C18, particles size of 5 µm or 
equivalent.  
B.3.11 Wash -bottle.  DEAS 786: 2021  
8 © EAC  2021  – All rights reserved  
 B.4 Sample preparation  
B.4.1 Prepar ation of the solvent mixture  
Prepare the solvent mixture by measuring about 20 0 mL of HPLC grade water  using 2 50 mL measuring 
cylinder  and transfer into a 1000 mL volumetric flask. Fill the 1000 mL volumetric flask to the mark with HPLC 
grade methanol using a wash bottle. Cap the flask and shake well to ensure a homogeneous solution is 
obtained. Label the flask appropriately (Methanol/Water 80/20) and allow the resultant solution to settle.  
B.4.2 Preparation of Calibration S tandard Solutions  
Calibration standard solutions are prepared as per Work Instruction TES/04/WI/13.  
B.4.3 Sample preparation  
Weigh 100 mL beaker and record the mass (S1). Weigh approximately 0.5 g of sample into the pre -weighed 
beaker and record the mass ( S2). Disperse the sample in about 8 mL solvent mixture (7.1.1). Cover the 
beaker with aluminium foil paper (6.2.8) and place it in a ultrasonic bath (6.2.3) for 10 min. Weigh 10 mL 
amber volumetric flask and record the mass (S3). Transfer the sample soluti on into the volumetric flask and 
top to the mark with the solvent mixture. Weigh the volumetric flask containing sample mixture and record the 
mass (S4). Transfer sample into appropriately labelled amber autosampler vials for HPLC determination. Test 
sampl es within 24 hr of preparation.  
B.5 Environmental control  
The analysis should be carried out in a well -ventilated air -conditioned room maintained at 20  C±2ºC since the 
retention time of hydroquinone fluctuates with temperature changes.  
B.6 Quality control  
The stability of the retention time shall be ensured when the relative standard deviation (RSD) of successive 
injections do not vary one from the other by more t han 2%. If the linearity is below the acceptable limit, repeat 
the calibration exercise.  
The linearity of the calibration curve should be above 0.999XX. If the linearity is below the acceptable limit, 
repeat the calibration exercise.  
B.7 Procedure : High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) Setup.  
B.7.1  Degas mobile phase solvents in a sonicator for 10 minutes and then connect solvent reservoirs to 
instrument. Turn on the instrument and load the method of test in the software.  
B.7.2 Download the method into the instrument. Allow software to connect to instrumen t and then open the 
pump valve.  
B.7.3 Press the purge button to prime the pump before use. Once purging is complete, close the valve and 
check if pressure is building up. Check for any air bubbles in the plumbing and purge the system if necessary. 
Install the ap propriate column and check for any leaks. If leaks are detected, tighten the connectors.  
B.7.4 Allow the equipment to run for 20 min to equilibrate, with a different solvent other than the mobile 
phase flowing through; in this case the solvent is Acetonitrile ). After the equipment has stabilized, switch off 
the pump and switch to the mobile phase and allow the equipment to run for about 10 minutes. Ensure that 
the oven temperature of 40°C has been attained and any signals arising from the noise and  drift of the 
equipment has been reduced.  DEAS 876: 2021  
© EAC 2021  – All rights reserved  9 
 B.7.5 Adjust the flow r ate of the mobile phase to 1.5 mL/min, set runtime at 5 minutes, the pump mode to 
isocratic mode, the lamp to D2, and detector wavelength set at 295 nm.  
B.8 HPLC Calibration Curve  
To obtain a  calibration curve, inject 1 µL of calibration standard solutions starting with the blank and then 
standards starting with the lowest concentration. Record the peak areas/heights for each corresponding 
concentration level. Ensure at least five replicate in jections are made for each calibration standard. Prepare 
the calibration curve by plotting the peak areas/heights against hydroquinone concentration, in mg/Kg. Ensure 
that the results meet the acceptance criteria stipulated in clause B.6. 
B.9 HPLC Determinati on 
Inject 1 µL of the samples and record the peak area/heights. Using the peak areas/heights of the sample 
calculate the concentration of the sample using the Microsoft® Excel spreadsheet calibration curve . Ensure 
that at least three injections are m ade and the average is reported as the result if it passes the QC checks 
stipulated in clause B.6. 
B.10 Results  
B.10.1  Determination of Hydroquinone concentration  
Hydroquinone concentration is determined using the following formula:  
Conc (mg/kg) = 
  
Where:  
S1 mass in grams of empty beaker   
S2 mass in grams of beaker with sample  
S3 mass in grams of empty volumetric flask   
S4 mass  in grams of volumetric flask with sample solution  
B.10.2  Expression of Results  
Levels ≥ 10 mg/Kg but < 100 mg/Kg to the nearest three significant figures  
Levels ≥ 100 mg/Kg to the nearest whole number  
Levels > 0.1 mg/Kg < 10mg/Kg to the nearest two signifi cant figures.  DEAS 786: 2021  
10 © EAC  2021  – All rights reserved  
 Bibliography  
[1] EAS 786: 2013 , Skin care creams, lotio ns and gels — Specification  
[2] IS 6608: 2004, Specification for skin creams  
[3] IS 4011: 1982, Methods for dermatological tests for cosmetics  
[4] Official Journal of the European Communities N. L26217  
 DEAS 876: 2021    
 
© EAC 2021  – All rights reserved