DEAS /1121: 2022  
ICS 61.06 0 
 
© EA C 2022                                                                                                                           Edition 2022   
  DRAFT EAST AFRICAN STANDARD  
Handbags  Specification — Part 1 — Leather  and Coated fa brics 
 
 
 
 
 
 
EAST AFRICAN COMMUNITY  
  DEAS/ 1121: 2022  
 
ii © EAC 20 22 – All rights res erved 
                                                  Copyright notice  
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© East African Community  2022 — All rights reserved  
East African Community   
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Tanzania  
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Reproduction for sales purposes may be subject to royalty payments or a licensing agreement.  
Violators may  be prosecuted .  WDEAS/TC063/0 01/2022  
© EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  iii 
 Contents  Page 
Table of Con tents  
Foreword  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................  iv 
1 Scope  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................  1 
2 Normative references  ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................  1 
3 Terms and definitions  ................................ ................................ ................................ ...........................  2 
4 Requirements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .........  2 
4.1 General Requirements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ . 2 
4.2 specific requirements  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .. 4 
5 Packing  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .............................  7 
6 Marking/Labelling  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .. 7 
Annex A  ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...............................  8 
  DEAS/ 1121: 2022  
 
iv © EAC 20 22 – All rights res erved 
  
 
Foreword  
Development of the East African Standards has been necessitated by the need for harmonizing requirements 
governing quality of products and services in  the East A frican Community. It is  envisaged that through 
harmonized standardization, trade barriers that are encountered when goods and services are exchanged 
within the Community will be removed.  
The Community has established an East African Standards C ommittee  (EASC)  mandated to develo p and 
issue  East African Standards  (EAS) . The Committee is composed of representatives of the National 
Standards Bodies in Partner States, together with the representatives from the public and priva te sector 
organizations  in the comm unity .  
East African St andards are  developed through  Technical Committees that are representative of key 
stakeholders including government, academia, consumer groups, private sector and other interested parties. 
Draft Eas t African Standards are circulated to stak eholders through  the Nation al Standards Bodies in the 
Partner States. The comments received are discussed and incorporated before finalization of standards, in 
accordance with the Principles and procedures for deve lopment of East African  Standards.  
East Af rican Standards are subject  to review, to keep pace with technological advances. Users of the East 
African Standards are therefore expected to ensure that they always have the latest versions of the standards 
they are implementing .  
The c ommittee re sponsib le for this docu ment is Tec hnical Committee EASC/TC 063 , Leather and Leather 
Products  
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be subject of patent 
rights. EAC shall not be held responsible for identifying  any or  all such patent  rights.  
 DEAS/ 1121: 2022  
   
 
© EAC 2021  – All righ ts reserved  
  
 Handbags  Specification  — Part 1— Leather and coated fabrics   
1 Scope  
This draft East Af rican Standard specifies the requirements, test  methods and sa mpling of handbags  with a 
leather or coate d fabric  outer mater ial 
 
2 Norm ative r eferences   
The following do cuments are referre d to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content con stitutes 
requirements of this document.  For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, 
the la test editio n of th e referenced  document (incl uding an y amendment s) applies.  
ISO 2589:2016 Leather — Physical and mechanical tests — Determination of thickness  
ISO 4045:2018 Leather — Chemical tests — Determination of pH and diffe rence figure  
ISO 3380:2015 Leather — Physical  and mechanical tests — Determination of shrinkage temperature up to 
100 °C  
ISO 15700:1998 Leather — Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to water spotting  
ISO 20433:2012  Leather — Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to cro cking  
ISO 1 1644:20 22 Leather — Test for adhesion of finish  
ISO 5402 -1:2022  Leather — Determination of flex res istance — Part 1: Flexometer method  
ISO 23910:2019  Leather — Physical and mechanical tests — Measurement of stitch tear resistance  
ISO 9073 -1:1989  Textiles — Test m ethods for nonwovens — Part 1: Determination of mass per unit area  
ISO 3801:1977  Textiles — Woven fabrics — Determination of mass per unit length and mass per unit area  
ISO 13938 -1:2019  Textiles — Bursting properties of fabrics — Part 1: Hydraulic m ethod f or determination of 
bursting strength and bursting distension  
ISO 13938 -2:2019  Textiles — Bursting properties of fabrics — Part 2: Pneumatic method for determination of 
bursting strength and bursting distension  
ISO 105 -X12:201 6 Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part X12: Colour fastness to rubbing  
  
2 © EAC 20 22 – All rights res erved 
 3 Terms an d definitions  
For the purposes of this standard, the following definitions shall apply : 
 
3.1batch  
handbags of the same materials (excluding colour), dimensions, construction, st yle, and de sign 
 
3.2 defective  
a handbag that fails in any mo re respects to comply w ith the rel evant requirements of the specification  
 
3.3 flaw 
a defect which, if  it appeared in the fabric lining of a handbag, would be readily seen and objected to by an 
ordinary pe rson wh o might contemplate the purchase of the hand bag 
 
3.4 lot 
not less t han 10 and not more than 2500 handbags of the same type and bearing the same ba tch 
identification, from one manufacturer, submitted at any one time for inspection and test ing. 
4 Requiremen ts 
4.1 General Requirements  
 4.1.1 Hand bag outer mater ials 
The handbags shall have leather or coated fabric outer  material  
4.1.1.1 Leather outers  
The leather outer material  of the handbag  shall comply wi th the req uirements gi ven in Table 1 when te sted in 
accordance  with the test methods  specified therein. 
4.1.2.2 Coated fabric outers  
The coated fabric  outer material  of the handbag  shall be of the following types and also  shall comply with the 
requirements  given in Table 2 when tested in ac cordance  with the test methods  specified  therein. 
4.1.4 Coated fabric outer materia ls 
4.1.4.1 Type  
A coate d fabric outer  material shall be of one of the following types, as specified by the purch aser, and sh all 
comply with the  relevant requirements given in Tables 2 ,  
a) Type  1 - PVC coated  fabric outer material  
b) Type 2 - PU coated  fabric outer  material  
 4.1.5 Metal  components , construction  
4.1.5.1 Metal Components  Commented [EK1]: BU: 
No differen ce between Type 1 and Type 2  
Proposal : Precise the type 2,  it must differ with  Type 1  
National stan dards are not allowed to be  used as 
references of Regional Standards  
 
Proposa l: Replace national standards with Region al or 
intern ational standards  
 ... 
© EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  3 
 4.1.5.1.1 General  
All metal components, whether functional or decorative, shall be intrinsically  corrosive resista nt or 
shall ha ve be en so coate d as to render them resistant to corrosion.  They shall be of adequate size 
and strength for their function.  
4.1.5.2 Constr uction  
4.1.5.2.1 General  
All handbags may be lined  or unlined .  The shape,  dimension s, fittings , style, and stitc hing shall be  
specified by the purchaser .  
4.1.5.2.2  Riveting  
All rivets be securely and neatly attached and of sufficien t length to all ow the  caps to be firmly 
clinch ed. 
4.1.5.2.3  Stitches, seams, and stitching  
4.1.5.2.3 .1 Stitches 
Stitching may be fu nctional or decorative or both. The ends of all stitched seam s shall be back -
stitched and free from loose threads . 
4.1.5.2.3.2  Seams  
Seams shall be fr ee from twists, pleats, and puckers.   
4.1.5.2.3.3  Stitching  
Stitchi ng may be f unctional  or decor ative or both.  I n no instance sh all the number of stitches p er 
unit lengt h be of such frequency as to impair or appreciably reduce the strength of the material 
being stitched. The ends of all stitched seams shall be back -stitched and fre e from lo ose threa ds. 
4.1.6  Handle s and  shoulder s traps  
The construction of a  carrying han dle or shoulder strap made from a plastics material shall be such 
that the handle or sh oulder strap is interlined with a leather strip of thickness at le ast 0.5 mm or  with 
any other a cceptable materi al or similar st rength.  The interlining sha ll be stitche d in with the turned -
in edges of the outer covering material along the entire length of  the handle or strap (including the 
points of attachment to the bo dy of a handb ag). 
4.1.7 Attac hment of handles  
Handles shall be securely attached either to the from a nd back panels or to reinforced gusset 
panels.  The attachment of a handle to the top o f a closure flap shall not be permissible unless the 
entire length  of the top (fo ld-over) portio n is adequately reinforced with an acceptable metal strip.  
 
 
4.1.8  Workman ship and finish   
4 © EAC 20 22 – All rights res erved 
 Workmanship and finish shall; be in accordance with sound trade practi ce.  A handbag shall be 
clean, well made and free from any defect the appearance or may af fect t he serviceabilit y of the 
handbag .   Sewing shall be uniform and double ro w of stitching shall be uniform unless intended to 
be otherwise.  Linings shall have be en so treated as to prevent fraying  
 
4.2 specific requirements  
The physic al and chemical propertie s shall comply with the  requirements  given in Table 1, when tested in 
accordance with test methods specified therein.  
Table 1 — Physical and chemical requirements for Leather outer  and lining  materials  
Property  Requirements  Test method  
Outer lea ther Lining leather  
Thickness , mm, min. 0.8 0.5 ISO 2589 
pH value, min.   4.5-5.5  4.5-5.5 ISO4045  
Grain cracking on double f old Nil Nil ISO 3 378 
Tear Strength, N/mm  40 -  
Shrinkage temperature 0C, min.:  
  
70 
  
70 
 ISO 3380  
 
Scuff re sistance (by colour chang e), max.  5 -  
Resistance of finish to rubbing, rating, min .: 
Wet rubbing  
Dry rubbing   
4 
4  
4 
4 ISO 20433  
Flex endurance, crazing after 10000 flexes  No cracks   - ISO5402 -1 
Finish adhesion, N /cm o f width , min 5 - ISO 11644 
Colour fastne ss on e xposure to light, rating, min.  4 - ISO 14 930 
Strength at stitch line, N/cm of width, min.  100 50 ISO 23910 
Number of sti tches per 25 mm 6-10 -  
Fastness to water spotting, rating, min after 16hrs 
of recovery  4 - ISO 15700  
 
 
 
 
 
4.2.2 Coated fabri c outer m aterials  
The physical and chemical properties sh all comply with the requirements given in Table 2, when tested in 
accordance with test methods specified therein.   
© EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  5 
  
Table 2 — Physical requirements f or coated fabri cs 
Property  Type 1 – PVC 
COATED FA BRIC Type 2 – PU COATE D 
FABRIC  Test Method  
Mass/unit area, g/cm2, 
min 620 320 ISO 9073 -1 
ISO3801  
Bursting strength , Kpa, 
min 400 400 ISO 13938 -1  
ISO 13938 -2 
Tearing strength  N, min  20 50 ISO 9073 -4 
Resistance to flex 
cracking, 200,000 c ycles 
before cra cking signs, 
min  
No crack s  
No crack s ISO 132  
Abrasion resistance  
(minimum cycles) , 700 -No data  - No data   ISO12947 -4 
ISO12947 -3 
Colour fast ness to light, 
rating, min  5 5 ISO 1O5 -B01 
Colour fastne ss to 
rubbing , min  4 4 ISO 105 -X12 
Volatile matter cont ent, % 
max 2.5 -  
Strength a t stitch line , 
N/cm of width, min.  30 30 ISO 23910  
Number of sti tches per 25 
mm 6-8 6-8  
Colour fast ness to  water 
spotting  4 4 ISO15700  
 
 
 
 
 
  
6 © EAC 20 22 – All rights res erved 
  
4.2.4  Fabric linings  
The ph ysical and ch emical  propertie s sha ll comply wi th th e requi reme nts given i n Table 5, when tested in 
accordance with test methods specified therein.  
 
 
 
 
Table 5 — Fabric li ning materials  
 
 
Property  Type of lining   
 
Test met hod woven 
synthetic 
and th eir 
blend    warp knitted 
synthetic  and 
their  blend  woven 
cellulosic’ 
Mass/uni t area, g /cm2, 
min. (f ree from filling)  60 100  100 ISO 3801  
ISO 9073 -1 
Filling content, %, 
max.  10 10  10  
Breaking strength, N, 
min. 
a) Warp  
b) Weft  
 
300 
300  
 
— 
—  
 
  
 
300 
300  
 
ISO 1 3934 -1 
 
Courses/cm (nominal)  —- 26 — —-  
Wales/cm ( nomin al) — 13 — —   
© EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  7 
  
 
 
 
 
5 Packing  
The handbags shall be packed in individ ual suitable material  and th en so packed, in suit able bulk 
contai ners,  as to protect them from damage during transport ation and storage.  
The handbag shall b e packe d in suitable mat erial so as  to protect  them from damage during 
transportation and storage.  
 
6 Marking /Labelling  
6.1 Handbags  
 
A fabric label that is securely sewn to the lining on the inside of each handbag shall be neatly, legibly, and 
indelibly marked with the followi ng information. 
 
a) The man ufacture’s name or trademark  (or both);  
b) Colour;  
c) Country  of origin ; 
d) The batch identification;  
e) The outer m aterial, i.e., leather, PVC -coated fabric, or polyurethane –coated fabr ic. 
 
6.2 Bulk packa ge 
 
The following  information shall appea r in neat, legible, a nd indelible marking on th e outside of each bulk 
container:  
 
a) The manufacturer’s name or trade mark ( or both);  
b) The country  of origin;  
c) The number o f hand bags. 
 
 
 
  
8 © EAC 20 22 – All rights res erved 
 Annex A  
(normativ e) 
 
Method s of sampl ing a nd criteria for accepta nce 
A.1 Sc ale of sa mpling  
A.1.1 Samples shall be selected and examined for each lot separately for ascertaining the conformity of the 
handbag  to the requirements of this standa rd.  
A.1.2  A handbag shall be co nsidered t o be of d ifferent lots if t hey differ  in shape,  colour, and design.   
A.1.3  The number of handbags  to be selected f rom any lot shall depend on the size of the lot and shall be in 
accordance with Column s 1 and 2 of Table A.1.  
A.2 Method of selectio n  
A.2.1  handbag  to be sele cted from the lot sh all be cho sen at ra ndom. To en sure randomness the procedure in 
A.2.3 shall be  used.  
A.2.2  When the handbag s in a lot are not packed in a numbe r of cases  (boxes), the sampling shall be as 
follows:  
Starting fro m any  hand bag in the lot, c ount the handbags  as 1,2, etc ---up to r and so on  in one order. Every r 
th  piece thus  counted sha ll be withdrawn to constitute a sample (r is the integral part of  N/n wher e N is the lot 
size and n is the sample size). This proced ure shall be stop ped as soo n as the r equired number of piece s is 
obtained.  
For example, if a sample of 125 handbags  is to b e selected from a lot of 3 000 handbags , compute r as equal 
to integral part of 3  000/125=24. Starting from any piece , the handbag  shall be co unted i n one orde r and ever y 
24th piece shall be withd rawn.  
A.2.3 When the handbags  in a lot are packed in differ ent cases (boxes), a suitable number of boxes (not less 
than 30 %  of the total boxes in the lot) shall be first chosen at random. Fo r each of the box es so chos en, an 
approximate ly equal n umber of handbags  shall be picked up from its different parts so as t o obtain the 
required number of handbags . For example, if a lot c onsists of 1 000 handbags  packed in 50 boxes, each 
containing 20 handbags , choose mo re than 15  boxes at random. If it is d ecided to  open 20 bo xes, then 4 
handbags  shall be picked up from diff erent parts of each of the 20 box es to give a total of 80 piece s as 
specified in Table A.1.  
  
Table A .1 — Scale of sampling and perm issible nu mber of  defects  
 
Number of handbag  
s in a lot  Samples for 
visuall y observed 
defects ( Piece s) Permissible number 
of defectives 
(Piece s) Sample siz e for 
laboratory testing 
(Piece s) Permissible number 
of defects ( Piece s) 
(1) (2) (3) (4) (5) 
Up to 50 13 0 2 0 
51 to100  20 1 3 0  
© EAC 2022  – All rights reserved  9 
 101 t o 300  32 1 3 0 
301 to 500  50 2 5 1 
501 to 1 000  80 3 6 1 
1 001 to 3 000  125 5 7 2 
3 001 and above  200 7 8 3 
 
 
A.3 Defects  
All randomly selected handbags  (Table A.1, Column 2) shall be i nspected for visually observe d defects,  i.e: 
a) Differen ce in shap e, desig n and colo ur;  
b) Distorted sh apes;  
c)Cracking defects  
d) Faulty jointing and adhes ion  
e) Broken stitches and incorre ct stit ching;  
f) Fasteners defects such as zip,buckles , Velcro , closure clips and stud s 
g) Grain damage  
h) Broken thr eads 
i)  Finish not even and un polished; and  
l) Missing or d efecti ve buckles/buckling assembly.  
A.4 Acce ptance criteria  
The number of defective handbags  shall not exceed the permissible number given in T able A.1, Colum n 3. If 
the number of defective piece s exceeds the permissible numbe r of defec tives, th e lot shall  be rejected.  
In case the lot has been foun d satisfactory fo r visually  observed defects, sample piece s for laboratory testing 
(Table A.1, Column  4) shall be taken from a mong those drawn (Table A.1,  Column 2). The piece s shall  be 
chosen  at rando m and teste d for dimensional, physical and chemical cha racteristics. If the number  of 
defective handbags  is less th an or equal to the corresponding permissib le number of defectives g iven in Table 
A.1, Column 5 , the lot shall be declared to have me t the req uirements o f this standard. Otherwise,  if the 
defective handbag  piece s are  more than  the corresponding permissible n umbers of defectives, the lot shall be 
rejected.  
 
 
 
  
10 © EAC 20 22 – All rights res erved