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# Female costume from the Hun Age grave in Vranja in the Roman province of Pannonia II

Anna Mastykova

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Anna Mastykova. Female costume from the Hun Age grave in Vranja in the Roman province of Pannonia II. Kulcsár Valéria. „To make a fairy’s whistle from a briar rose” Studies presented to Eszter Istvánovits on her sixtieth birthday, Jósa András Múzeum, pp.395-405, 2018, 978 615 5619 06 9. hal-04101786

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Public Domain
„VADRÓZSÁBÓL
TÜNDÉRSÍPOT CSINÁLTAM”

Tanulmányok Istvánovits Eszter
60. születésnapjára

„TO MAKE A FAIRY’S WHISTLE
FROM A BRIAR ROSE”

Studies presented to Eszter Istvánovits
on her sixtieth birthday

Három egész napon át
bújtam erdő vadonát,
gombamezőt, sziklatetőt bejártam.
Három egész napon át
faragtam egy furulyát,
vadrózsából tündérsípot csináltam.

(Weöres Sándor: Furulya)

Three days I spent in the forest's arms
exploring its enchanted charms,
from its cliff-top crown to its mulchy toe
Three days I spent in the forest's arms
and there a flute myself did carve
to make a fairy's whistle from a briar rose.

(Sándor Weöres: The flute)
(Translated by John Conyers)
**Almássy Katalin** és **Kulcsár Valéria** közreműködésével
szerkesztette **L. Nagy Márta** és **L. Szőlősi Katalin** /

Edited by **Márta L. Nagy** and **Katalin L. Szőlősi**

with the cooperation of **Katalin Almássy** and **Valéria Kulcsár**

Jósa András Múzeum

Nyíregyháza

2018

A Jósa András Múzeum Kiadványai 73.

A kötet elkészítését támogatták:

Nóra 97 Kft., Polgár

Múzeumfalu Baráti Köre, Nyíregyháza

Ásatárs Kft., Kecskemét

Angol nyelvű fordítás:

**Kulcsár Valéria**

Szedés és tördelés:

**Szemán Attila**

A borítót tervezte:

**Beleznai Gabriella**

ISBN 978 615 5619 06 9

HU – ISSN 0133–8110

© Szerzők

©Jósa András Múzeum

Kiadja a Jósa András Múzeum

Felelős kiadó: a nyíregyházi Jósa András Múzeum igazgatója

Példányszám: 400

Nyomdai munkálatok: Kapitális Kft., Debrecen

Felelős vezető: **Kapusi József**
Female costume from the Hun Age grave in Vranja
in the Roman province of Pannonia II

Anna Mastykova

The site is located in the Sava River Basin, on one of its left tributaries called Vranja, on the left bank of the latter, in the vicinity of the village Hrtkovci (Serbia). There were two graves from the Great Migration Period, male and female (no. 1); the latter will be analysed in this paper (DAUTOVA-RUŠEVLJAN 1981.). In the first half of the 5th century, the period of the graves in question, as we will see below, the area in between of the Sava and the Danube was part of the province Pannonia II, with its capital in Sirmium. The site under study is located south-east of Sirmium, relatively far to the south from the strategically important road Sirmium-Bassianae-Singidunum, which crossed the province from west to east.

The grave contained an inhumation, judging by the costume, of a woman, extended on the back, with the head to the south, in a pit which contours remained untraced in the soil. The grave contained the following goods, which now are kept in the Museum of Vojvodina in Novi Sad:

– Two brooches with a triangular head-plate and a diamond shaped foot-plate, of Bratei type<fnref n="1" /> (Fig. 1: 2, 3, Fig. 3: 1, 2). They are cast of white metal. Both the head- and foot-plates have circular projections in the corners. The length of the brooches is 5.6 and 5.8 cm. Similar to other small (less than 10 cm) brooches, the Bratei type forms a distinctive feature of the costume of the “middle class” among the East Germanic tribes in the first half and the middle of the 5th century (BIERBRAUER 1989. 152–155), when the graves of the majority of the population did not contain costume details (BIERBRAUER 1989A. 76). According to the grave finds, such as in the cemetery of Bratei in Transylvania, brooches of the type in question were worn on shoulders (BIERBRAUER 1989. 141–143).

– Crossbow brooch with inverted foot of the type Almgren 158 (Fig. 1: 4, Fig. 3: 3). Now it comprises two fragments, which total length is 6.3 cm. The brooches of the type were widely spread in the Central European Barbaricum in the Roman Period and during the Great Migration. These brooches appeared in the Roman Empire with groups of migrants from Central Europe. They are known in the Great Migration Period in the Danubian provinces and, rarely, in the Roman West (KAZANSKI 1997. 286, fig. 1: 11, 3, fig. 3: 4–5, fig. 4: 3, IVANIŠEVIĆ-KAZANSKI 2007. 118, TEJRAL 2011. 199–201).

<footnote n="1">¹ Other, very similar brooches belong to the Vyškov type. In contrast to the brooches of the Bratei type, they often have a head-plate shaped in the form of “gendarme’s tricorn” (the term well-known to prehistorians), and the foot-plate flaring to the base, with five projections (BIERBRAUER 1989. 149–157). The border between these types is vague. This way, some brooches with five projections on the foot-plate, the feature defining them as the Vyškov type, have proportions very similar to the Bratei type. Volker Bierbrauer’s works define some of these brooches as the Bratei type. In our opinion, there are more reasons to connect them with the Vyškov type or to define them as a specific type.</footnote>
– Buckle of white metal, consisting of a frame, a flat chape, and a tongue, the latter now fragmented (Fig. 1: 5, Fig. 3: 9). Total length of the buckle with the chape is 6.9 cm, the length of the tongue is 4 cm. Undoubtedly, buckles of this type originated from Roman patterns and formed direct prototypes for relief buckles with elongated diamond shaped chape of the Kosino–Tiszalök–Košice type, dated to phase D2/D3 (TEJRAL 2007. 81).

– Pair of earrings of two linked wire rings of white metal, with one ring in each pair having a small hook on its end (Fig. 1: 1, Fig. 3: 6). The rings are fragmented now; the size of survived rings is 1 x 1.2, 0.9 x 1.1 cm and 0.7 x 1.5 cm.

– Pair of bracelets of bronze alloy of whitish yellow colour, made of a rod of circular cross-section, with slightly widening ends (Fig. 2: 1, 2, Fig. 3: 4, 5). On the ends there is transverse incised pattern of one or two flutes. The bracelets measure 5.7 x 5.9 cm and 6 x 5.5 cm. In the Danubian context, bracelets with widening ends and engraved design are typical of the later phase D2 and phase D2/D3 (TEJRAL 2007. Abb. 22: 2, 4).

– Necklace of beads. There are many finds of amber beads of the Viminacium–Singidunum 2–3a, 4–7 types, carnelian beads of the Viminacium–Singidunum 17 and 21 types, chalcedony beads of the Viminacium–Singidunum 27–28 types, glass beads of the Viminacium–Singidunum 36, 39, 39a, 40, 71, 72, 103, 104 types, and others, and also gold beads of the Viminacium–Singidunum 111 type (Fig. 4). All of them are well-known in the Great Migration Period (for details concerning these types, see: IVANIŠEVIĆ–KAZANSKI–MASTYKOVA 2006. 51–118).

– Fragment of white metal mirror (6.9 x 4.4 cm), with relief decoration and a loop in the centre for hanging (Fig. 2: 4, Fig. 3: 8). Similarly to a fragment from the cemetery of Bratei in Transylvania, this mirror is a transitional form from the Anke I / Chmi–Brigetio type to the Anke III / Balta–Krainburg type; both types are known in the Middle Danubian area (ANKE 1998. 29). In our opinion, a fragment discovered in Celeiu in the Lower Danube (HARHOIU 1998. Taf. 81: 5) possibly belongs to this small series of hybrids.

– Pincers of a narrow bronze plate of whitish yellow colour, with flaring ends, which was doubled over (Fig. 2: 3, Fig. 3: 7).

– Iron knife measuring 10 cm in length (Fig. 2: 7).

– Ovoid glass beaker of yellowish colour (Fig. 5: 1). The beaker is 7 cm high, with the utmost width at the centre of the body. Ovoid beakers relatively often occurred in the Middle Danube area in the Great Migration Period (TEJRAL 2011. 232–240, esp. Abb. 176: 5).

– Gray ceramic vessel (Fig. 5: 2). Its length is 11 cm, maximum diameter 15 cm, bottom diameter 8.3 cm, neck diameter 10.8 cm. The pot has a smoothed decoration in the upper and middle part. Gray wheel-made pottery with smoothed decoration most likely originated from the so-called “foederati ware” from phase D2 (TEJRAL 2011. 240–247) and continued to exist in the later period. The vessels resembling the Vranja finds, with similar smoothed decorations, circular or ribbed, occur in the sites of Vyškov in Southern Moravia (TEJRAL 1974. Abb. 6: 2) and Singidunum–castrum (BRJELAJAC–IVANIŠEVIĆ 1993. fig. 4: 3, 5).

– Biconical, gray ceramic spindle whorl, with a rounded rib (Fig. 2: 5). It is 2.7 cm high, and its utmost diameter is 4.5 cm.

According to Jaroslav Tejral, this grave is typical for the latest period of phase D2, i.e. 420/430–450 AD, corresponding, in his opinion, to the Hunnic “horizon” (TEJRAL 2007. 78–81, TEJRAL 2011. 367–368).

Female costume similar to the one from grave 1 of the Vranja cemetery is well known in the Middle Danube area in phase D2 (380/400–440/450 AD), according to the finds in privileged graves
of the Untersiebenbrunn horizon with big (more than 10 cm) radiate-headed brooches. This attire is also well represented in privileged graves from phase D2/D3, corresponding to the “princely” horizon of Smolín (430/440–460/470 AD) (TEJRAL 1973., TEJRAL 2011. 128–159). The attire in grave 1 also included other artefacts attached to the belt, which were not actually a part of the costume. Mirrors, knives, spindle whorls, and pincers of the kind also appeared in privileged graves with big brooches from phases D2 and D2/D3. So, the female costume from grave 1 in Vranja was a simplified replica of the privileged costume with big brooches, where the latter were replaced with small-size imitations.

The same costume occurred in “common” graves on the Danube in phases D2 and D2/D3, which contained small (less than 10 cm) brooches. However, graves with small brooches usually contained only two or three attire categories in addition to small brooches. Most often, among the accompanying goods there are necklaces of beads, and, in less numerous cases, belt buckles, earrings, bracelets, and combs. Among the graves with small brooches, the costume composition most similar to grave 1 under analysis occurred in grave 178 in Ártánd–Nagyfarkasdomb,<fnref n="2" /> and a bit later graves from phase D3 (450–480 AD), with brooches with incised design in Miszla (SZENDREY 1928.) and Dombóvár (HAMPEL 1905. 687–689, KÍSS 1983. Abb. 4: 5). Besides, similar costume appeared in graves from phase D3, with small brooches of the type Prša–Levice, such as Mitterhof, grave 3 (HEINRICH 1990. 87–88, Taf. 2), Fântânele–Dealul Popii, grave IV (HARHOIU 1998. 174, Taf. 88: C), or Levice, grave from the year 1899 (WERNER 1959. 429, Abb. 6).

Accompanying goods (knife, pincers, and spindle-whorl) are also known in graves with small brooches, though in these cases they occur in fewer cases than in privileged graves with big brooches. This way, a spindle whorl and a brooch occur in grave 178 in the cemetery of Ártánd–Nagyfarkasdomb and in grave 16 of the cemetery Ártánd–Kisfarkasdomb (TEJRAL 2007. Abb. 8: 4, 5). Generally, we can conclude that the composition of the costume in female grave 1 resembles both the attire in privileged graves with big brooches and “common” graves with small brooches.

Costume with a pair of brooches worn on the shoulders or on chest and accompanied with a necklace and/or belt buckle was certainly of Eastern Germanic origin (BIERBRAUER 1980., TEMPELMANN-MĄCZYŃSKA 1989.). It was well known in the Late Roman Period and in the Early Migration Period, in the Cherniakhov Culture in phases C3–D1, i.e. in the 4th or early 5th centuries (MASTYKOVA 2007., MASTYKOVA 2011.). However, earrings, bracelets, and metal mirrors are not typical for the Cherniakhov Culture costume (TEMPELMANN-MĄCZYŃSKA 1989. 77–84, GOPKALO 2011.). These elements originate from the material culture of the population of the North and Northeast Black Sea region in the Late Roman Period, which is why we call them “Pontic.” Apart from bracelets, earrings and mirrors, this Pontic costume included small metal geometric appliqués, gold necklaces of twisted wire with conical pendants, and gold decorative pieces with holes for hanging, a number of which appeared in the privileged Danubian costume in the Great Migration Period. Eastern Germanic costume with paired brooches got Pontic elements for the first time in phase D1, in the area east of the Cherniakhov Culture: in Tanais and in Cimmerian Bosporus. Among these finds we can mention grave 3.1990 in Tanais; burial vault 154.1904 / burial 7 and vault 165.1904 / burial 6 in Kerch; grave 22 in the cemetery of Zamorskoe, and grave 2.1987 in Ilouraton. In phase D2, this mixed “Pontic-Germanic” costume was known in Siniavka and in vault 154.1904 / burial 2 in Kerch (KAZANSKI-MASTYKOVA 2003. 108–112, KAZANSKI 2009. 177–179, 201–202, fig. 61: 44, 1–10, fig. 90). Northern Pontic area seems the only one where the shaping of the future “princely” Danubian

<footnote n="2">² Kind oral information of Eszter Istvánovits.</footnote>
Germanic costume is observable. Therefore, we can suppose that the persons of the Northern Black Sea origin were those who transferred it to the Danube.

The first few instances of the mixed Pontic-Germanic costume occurred in the Middle Danube area during phase D1 (Tiszadob, grave 18: ISTVÁNOVITS 1993. Abb. 8: 11). Female graves of the Untersiebenbrunn horizon supply evidences that this costume was popular in Central Europe in phase D2 (KAZANSKI-MASTYKOVA 2003. 112).

According to Volker Bierbrauer, the 5th century graves on the Danube with small brooches (of the Bratei, Vyškov, Prša-Levice types, etc.) belonged to the “middle class” of eastern Germanic tribes. Regarding the graves with big radiate-headed brooches, they were related to the upper class of the Germanic society, and finally, graves without such costume which predominated in the Danube area were related to the “common” population (BIERBRAUER 1980. 138–140, BIERBRAUER 1989. 152–155, BIERBRAUER 1989A. 75–77). We consider this reconstruction quite probable. In its context, the female attire from grave 1 in the cemetery of Vranja probably represents a “democratic” replica of the “princely” costume.

Hence female costume from grave 1 appeared in the Middle Danube in phase D2 (e.g. Maklár, Makó, Kővágószőlős, and Regöly) and continued to exist in phase D2/D3 (Smolín, Mád, Tiszalök, Mezőkövesd–Mocsolyás, Laa a. d. Thaya grave 1, Gyulavári, Hódmezővásárhely–Sóshalom, Dindeşti, etc.) (TEJRAL 2011. 405–417). The grave in Vranja reflects typical costume of the wealthy part of the “middle class” of the barbarians on the Danube, imitating “princely” attire of the Eastern Germanic tradition.

Translated from Russian by Nikita Khrapunov

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Анна Владимировна Мастыкова

Институт археологии РАН
RU – 117036 Москва
ул. Дм. Ульянова 19.
e-mail: amastykova@mail.ru

A Vranja lelőhelyen (Pannonia II provincia) előkerült
hun kori sír női viselete

Anna Mastykova

A Pannonia II. római provincia területén fekvő Vranja lelőhelyen, Hrtkovci/Herkóca (Szerbia) szomszédságában feltárt kis temető 1. sírja a hun kori Duna-völgyi germán lakosságra jellemző női viselet elemeit tartalmazta. Előkerült egy pár Bratei típusú fibula, amelyet a vállon vagy a mellkason viselt az elhunyt; egy további, aláhajlított lábú fibula, amelyet általában a mellkason találnak meg; egy övcsat; egy pár az alkaron viselt, szélesedő végű karperec; a nyakon gyöngysor és egy pár fülbevaló. A további tárgyakat, amelyek az ilyen típusú viselettel együtt fordulnak elő, gyakran az övhöz rögzítve hordták, néha egy erre a célra szolgáló tarsolyban. Ezek csipeszek, tükrök és más
személyes toalett tárgyak, néha kések és orsógombok. Az 1. sír női viselete a Közép-Duna-vidéken tűnt fel a D2 fázisban és egészen a D2/D3 fázisig volt divatban. A vranjai sír a „középosztály” módosabb rétegének tipikus viseletét képviseli, amely a keleti germán hagyományú „fejedelmi” viseletet utánozza.

Anna MASTYKOVA

Institute of Archaeology, Russian Academy of Sciences,
RU - 117036 Moscow
19. Dm. Ulianova str.
e-mail: amastykova@mail.ru

<figure><img src="image_2.png" /><figcaption>**Fig. 1**
Costume items from grave 1 of Vranja (photo by the author)</figcaption></figure>

**1. kép**

Viseleti elemek a vranjai
1. sírból (a szerző felvétele)
<figure><img src="image_3.png" /><figcaption>Fig. 2</figcaption></figure>

Costume items and other funeral furniture from grave 1 of Vranja (photo by the author)

2. kép

Viseleti elemek és egyéb mellékletek a vranjai 1. sírból (a szerző felvétele)
<figure><img src="image_4.png" /><figcaption>Fig. 3
Costume items from grave 1 of Vranja (drawing by Svetlana Bogatchenko)</figcaption></figure>

3. kép
Viseleti elemek a vranjai 1. sírból (Szvetlana Bogacsenko rajza)
<figure><img src="image_5.png" /><figcaption>Fig. 4
Beads from grave 1 of Vranja (photo by the author)</figcaption></figure>

4. kép
A vranjai 1. sír gyöngyei (a szerző felvétele)
<figure><img src="image_6.png" /><figcaption>**Fig. 5**
Vessels from grave 1 of Vranja
(photo by the author)</figcaption></figure>

**5. kép**
A vranjai 1. sír edényei (a szerző felvétele)