Vitreous Fractures

Kim Hahn, Kent State University, USA

Key words: organza, gradation, optical illusion, interweaving

The purpose of this design was to create a silk organza fabric surface with opposing color gradients that captured the changing color densities of sunlight passing through a translucent liquid media. The gradual color changes of a sunset refracted through changing densities of liquid, from blue, red to orange were the inspiration for this design. The textile surface design was an optical illusion of depth and volume created as light passes through the parallel gradation of three contrasting semi-translucent color gradients of digitally printed silk organza that overlap in an interweaving pattern.

First, flat pattern and minimal waste pattern development methods (Ericson, 2010) were used to create a single, continuous pattern piece for the dress eliminating shoulder seams. Twenty-one separate linear gradients with two different sets of color gradients (blue and red; red and orange) of progressing intensity were created in Photoshop and then printed on 100% silk organza. To minimize fabric edge raveling, the linear gradients were printed on the bias grain line of the silk organza. To construct the fabric surface for the dress, each 1/2" strip was hand-cut and woven together in a visually progressing order from the two separate and opposing axes. The arm hole edges were bounded with a self-fabric bias strip. The neckline and hemline were finished using a digital print of the original pre-cut organza strips.

Several designs have been created by the designer using this hand weaving technique; however this particular design is the first time that strips of silk organza were woven together. Hand weaving the digitally printed silk organza strips created both an interesting surface color and illusion of volume when each of the two different color gradient strips were overlapped. Furthermore, the overall design was transparent enough to showcase the silhouette of a body when worn by a model. What is unique about this design is that it simultaneously demonstrates a patch-work like pattern when viewed from a distance, but also because of its semi-translucence, displays a playful optical illusion of depth and volume from the interplay between the progressing layers of continuous interwoven color on each strip.

References:

Ericson, S. (2010, June/July). No Waste Allowed: Get to know this amazing, planet-friendly design approach, *Threads magazine*, 60-63. Retrieved February 20th, 2015 from www threadsmagazine.com.
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