# The Prickling Issue in Fabrics Made of Camelid Fibres: Possible Mechanical or Genetic Solutions

Frank E.N.

SUPPRAD Program, IRNASUS – CONICET-UCC. Córdoba, Argentina.

UCHA – Universidad Nacional de La Rioja, sede Chamical, La Rioja, Argentina

This lecture intends to analyze the physical attributes that determine the comfort of fabrics made of South American Camelid fibers (Lama and Alpaca), the effect on their value and their possible mechanical and/or genetic modifications. While emphasis has always been on mean fibre diameter -in order to determine fibre quality- fibre frequency exceeding 30 microns has a key role in quality. This is essential for light fabrics, where the effect of prickle plays a critical part in consumer's choice. Yet the problem lies in the slow selection response. Dehairing provides an immediate solution, though excessive fiber breakage should be addressed (Wang et al., 2008). It is concluded that the textile fibre quality of South American Camelids is promissory if the presence of objectionable fibres is solved, resulting in a tolerable frequency for consumers (< 3 %). This process could be explored via genetic selection (Frank et al., 2011) or applying dehairing technology (Frank et al., 2017). This implies a true paradigm shift with regard to the classic textile processing of Alpaca and Lama fibres. This would enhance the fibre softness to touch, together with other important features that would render the fibre price more competitive.

Frank E.N., Molina B.G., Hick M.H.V., Caruso L.M., 2011. Determinación de la varianza genética de los componentes del diámetro de la fibra de camélidos en relación a los tipos de vellón. En: XXII Reunión ALPA, Montevideo, Uruguay. 24-26 octubre de 2011. Arch. Latinoam. Prod. Anim., 19 (Supl.1):3

Frank E.N., Frondizi Seghetti D.G., Hick M.V.H., Castillo M.F., Burgos A., Cruz A., 2017. Dehairing of alpaca fibres top with AM2 dehairing technology. This Symposium.

Wang L, Singh A., Wang X., 2008. Dehairing Australian alpaca fibres with a cashmere dehairing machine. Journal of the Textile Institute, vol. 99 (6): 539-544.
# Determination of the Optimal Number of Runs Using AM2 Dehairing Technology in Fibers of Patagonian Goats (Patagonian Cashmere)

Frank, E.N.<fnref n="1" />,<fnref n="2" />, Hick, M.V.H.<fnref n="1" />,<fnref n="2" />, Castillo, M.F.<fnref n="1" /> and Frondizi Seghetti, D.G.<fnref n="3" />

AM2 dehairing technology reduces the objectionable fiber content of shorn fleeces. Nonetheless, it reduces fiber length and the final yield is affected by the successive runs through the dehairing machine, though it allows to specify the number of passes required for each lot (Singh, 2003; Frank et al., 2009). The aim of this work is to establish the number of passes that the machine should make until optimal performance is reached from an objectionable fiber content, fiber length, fiber diameter and yields to dehairing perspective. Work was carried out on fiber sheared from north Patagonian goats, whose fleece was scoured and dehaired until the process seemed final from a visual assessment. From each run, samples were extracted for processing at the laboratory. Measurements comprised: yield to dehairing (% Y), objectionable fiber content (w/w) (FOC), average fiber length (FL) and average fiber diameter (FD). The variables obtained were fitted with a polynomial model and the first derivative of the function was calculated. The value of the variable for the run with the minimum value was estimated, and the value of the variables from an expected optimal value was calculated with the same function. The lowest % Y was obtained in run 10, the minimum FOC in run 6, the lowest FL in run 7 (2.6 cm) and the lowest FD in run 5 (18.1 microns). It is concluded that, if 4 runs are assumed to be optimal to obtain less than 1 % of objectionable fibers, a % Y: 35 - 37 %, FOC: 0.2 %, FL: 3.5 cm and FD: 18.3 µm would be obtained.

Frank E.N., Hick M.V.H., Prieto A., Castillo M.F., 2009. Efectos del descerdado sobre la calidad de la fibra obtenida de camélidos sudamericanos y cabra criolla patagónica. En: 32º Cong. Arg. Prod. Anim. (resumen). Revista Argentina de Producción Animal Vol 29 Supl. 1: 134-135.

Singh, A. A study on dehairing of Australian cashmere fibres. Ms Ing. Thesis, Deakin, Aust.

<footnote n="1">¹SUPPRAD Program, IRNASUS – CONICET-UCC. Córdoba, Argentina.</footnote>

<footnote n="2">²UCHA – Universidad Nacional de La Rioja, sede Chamical, La Rioja, Argentina</footnote>

<footnote n="3">³SAF S.A. Textile Company</footnote>
# Dehairing of Alpaca Fibres Top with AM2
## Dehairing Technology

Frank, E.N.<fnref n="1" />, <fnref n="2" />, Frondizi Seghetti, D.G.<fnref n="3" />, Hick, M.V.H.<fnref n="1" />, <fnref n="2" />, Castillo, M.F.<fnref n="1" />,
Burgos, A.<fnref n="4" /> and Cruz, A.<fnref n="4" />

Many classes of alpaca fibres contain a certain amount of coarse fibres, which are
strong and stiff, and cause discomfort to the end users of alpaca fibre products. It
is therefore desirable to separate the coarse alpaca fibres from the fine ones, as it
should be done with llama fiber. With the AM2 dehairing technology developed in
Argentina, various tests of Llama and Alpaca fiber (Frank et al., 2009) were also
performed in Australia (Wang et al., 2008). In all cases, samples of raw fleeces were
used. The possibility of using worsted (combed and intersected) arose some time
ago. This paper reports trial results on alpaca dehairing using an AM2 technology
dehairing machine. The diameters of alpaca fleece, dehaired alpaca fibres and
removed alpaca fibres were analyzed; and the fibre lengths before and after
dehairing were compared. In this dehairing assay, input included: Alpaca tape top
22 microns average fineness; 30 % CV of fineness; objectionable fiber w/w:
4.88 %; N°/weight: 0.32; Fiber of>30 µm: 9.1 %. Average fiber length (Barbe):
111.8 mm. One dehairing Product/Down (VI) was obtained: average fineness
21.9 µm; 24 % CV of fineness; Objectionable fiber w / w: 2.2 %; N°/weight: 0.16;
Fiber of>30 µm: 3.6 % Average fiber length (Barbe): 83.0 mm; Hateur: 75.2 mm
(reduction length: 6.9 - 21.2 %). Yield at end dehairing was 83.5%. The product
can be processed with the worsted system (combing).

Frank E.N., Hick M.V.H., Prieto A., Castillo M.F 2009. Efectos del descerdado sobre la calidad de la fibra obtenida de camélidos sudamericanos y cabra criolla patagónica. En: 32º Cong. Arg. Prod. Anim. (resumen). Revista Argentina de Producción Animal Vol 29 Supl. 1: 134-135.

Wang L, Singh A., Wang X., 2008. Dehairing Australian alpaca fibres with a cashmere dehairing machine. Journal of the Textile Institute, vol. 99 (6): 539-544.

<footnote n="1">¹SUPPRAD Program, IRNASUS – CONICET-UCC. Córdoba, Argentina</footnote>

<footnote n="2">²UCHA – Universidad Nacional de La Rioja, sede Chamical, La Rioja, Argentina</footnote>

<footnote n="3">³SAF S.A. textil Company</footnote>

<footnote n="4">⁴Fundo Pacomarca – INCA TOPS S.A., Miguel Forga 348, Arequipa, Perú</footnote>
# Modelación de curvas de crecimiento de llamas Q'ara utilizando modelos de crecimiento no lineales

Mamani-Cato, R.H.<fnref n="1" />, Huanca, T.<fnref n="1" />, Naveros, M.<fnref n="1" /> and Gallegos, R.<fnref n="1" />

El objetivo de este estudio fue describir la curva de crecimiento de llamas Q'ara machos y hembras para lo cual se han utilizado seis modelos de crecimiento no lineales (Brody, Gompertz, Von Bertalanffy, Logístico, Exponencial negativo y Richards). Se analizaron datos de pesos corporales individuales de 15303 y 18085 llamas machos y hembras de la variedad Q'ara. Los datos fueron obtenidos de la estación experimental Quimsachata, del Instituto Nacional de Innovación Agraria (INIA) localizado en el distrito de Santa Lucía, provincia de Lampa, departamento de Puno, Perú. Los parámetros de los modelos fueron estimados por el método iterativo de Gauss Newton por medio del procedimiento NLIN del programa estadístico SAS®. Para saber si un modelo tiene un buen ajuste se usó los siguientes estadísticos: Coeficiente de determinación ajustado (R2ajustado); Cuadrado medio del error (RMS); Raíz del cuadrado medio del error (RMSE); Criterio de información de Akaike (AIC) y el Criterio de información Bayesiana (AIB). Se concluye que el modelo de crecimiento no lineal de Brody es el que mejor describe la curva de crecimiento de llamas Q'ara machos y para las hembras el mejor modelo es el de Richards.

<footnote n="1">¹Instituto Nacional de Innovación Agraria (INIA), Puno, Peru</footnote>

<footnote n="2">²Universidad Nacional del Altiplano, Facultad de Medicina Veterinaria y Zootecnia, Puno, Perú</footnote>
# Genetic Basis of Early Activation of Hair Follicle in Cashmere Goat: An Approach with Candidate Genes

Pazzaglia, I.<fnref n="1" />, Mercati, F.<fnref n="2" />, Antonini, M.<fnref n="3" />, La Terza, A.<fnref n="1" />, Nocelli, C.<fnref n="4" />, Pallotti, S.<fnref n="1" />, Pediconi, D.<fnref n="1" /> and Renieri C.<fnref n="4" />

The cashmere hair follicle perpetually goes through three stages: growth (anagen), involution (catagen) and rest (telogen). Photoperiod is the main proximate factor in the control of seasonal coat change in Cashmere goats. Stem cells play a crucial role in the hair follicle growth. Different types of stem cells are present in hair follicle: bulge stem cells, secondary hair germ, adipose stem cells (ADSCs) and epidermal stem cells. Platelet-derived growth factor (PDGF) is secreted from ADSCs and is involved in hair growth. In this work, we have studied the goat PDGFA and sequenced the full length transcript obtained a long and short isoforms. Using the RT-PCR, we have identified the expression of some molecular signals, including PDGFA, that according to the literature are implicated in the hair growth. Our data may confirm that some genes, especially CD34, BMP2 and PDGFA, can activate hair follicle stem cells, in particular those of the bulge region.

<footnote n="1">¹School of Bioscience and Veterinary Medicine, University of Camerino, Italy</footnote>

<footnote n="2">²Department of Veterinary Medicine – Unit of Veterinary Anatomy, University of Perugia, Italy</footnote>

<footnote n="3">³Italian National Agency for new Technology, Energy and Sustainable Economic Development, ENEA UTAGRI Inn CR Casaccia, Roma, Italy</footnote>

<footnote n="4">⁴School of Pharmacy, University of Camerino, Italy</footnote>
Animal fibres from South American camelids and other fibre or wool bearing species provide important products for use by the human population. The contemporary context includes the competition with petrocarbon-based artificial fibres and concern about excessive persistence of these in the natural environment. Animal fibres present highly valuable characteristics for sustainable production and processing as they are both natural and renewable. On the other hand, their use is recognised to depend on availability of appropriate quality and quantity, the production of which is underpinned by a range of sciences and processes which support development to meet market requirements. This collection of papers combines international experience from South and North America, China and Europe. The focus lies on domestic South American camelids (alpacas, llamas) and also includes research on sheep and goats. It considers latest advances in sustainable development under climate change, breeding and genetics, reproduction and pathology, nutrition, meat and fibre production and fibre metrology.

Publication of this book is supported by the Animal Fibre Working Group of the European Federation of Animal Science (EAAP). 'Advances in Fibre Production Science in South American Camelids and other Fibre Animals' addresses issues of importance to scientists and animal breeders, textile processors and manufacturers, specialised governmental policy makers and students studying veterinary, animal and applied biological sciences.

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GEORG-AUGUSTUNIVERSITAT
GÖTTINGEN

ISBN: 978-3-86395-408-6

Universitätsverlag Göttingen