# Formulability of natural deep eutectic solvents in cosmetics: a joint rheological, calorimetric and sensory analysis

A Verger, I.-M. Ardeza, Alexandra Despres, Xavier Perse, Salima Bouderbala, Charlotte Pradel, Maria Amela-Cortes, Leslie Boudesocque-Delaye, E. Munnier

► To cite this version:

A Verger, I.-M. Ardeza, Alexandra Despres, Xavier Perse, Salima Bouderbala, et al., Formulability of natural deep eutectic solvents in cosmetics: a joint rheological, calorimetric and sensory analysis. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2023, Special Issue:Cosm'Innov Congress, 5th edition, 24 & 25 May 2023, Orléans, France, 45 (S2), pp.46. 10.1111/ics.12921. hal-05510855

HAL Id: hal-05510855

https://hal.science/hal-05510855v1

Submitted on 17 Feb 2026

HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access
archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci-
entific research documents, whether they are pub-
lished or not. The documents may come from
teaching and research institutions in France or
abroad, or from public or private research centers.

L'archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est
destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents
scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non,
émanant des établissements d'enseignement et de
recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires
publics ou privés.

<figure><img src="image_1.png" /></figure>

Distributed under a Creative Commons CC BY 4.0 - Attribution - International License
# Formulability of Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents in cosmetics: a joint rheological, calorimetric and sensory analysis

Alexis Verger<fnref n="1" />, Iron Mike Ardeza<fnref n="2" />, Alexandra Despres<fnref n="3" />, Xavier Perse<fnref n="1" />, Salima Bouderbala<fnref n="1" />, Charlotte Pradel<fnref n="1" />, Maria Amela-Cortes<fnref n="4" />, Leslie Boudesocque-Delaye<fnref n="2" />, Emilie Munnier<fnref n="1" />*

**OBJECTIVES:** Natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES) are a new range of solvents made from biorefinery ingredients. They are currently used in the cosmetic field for their extraction properties, as an eco-friendly alternative to usual organic solvents. Their non volatility implies their inclusion in the final product alongside the molecules of interest. The first objective of this study was to measure the impact of the introduction of hydrophilic NaDES on the properties of a cosmetic gel. The second objective was to evaluate if the physico-chemical and sensory characteristics of the NaDES can help us predict their formulability.

**METHODS:** Three commonly used hydrophilic NaDES from the main families, organic acid-based, amino-acid based and sugar-based NaDES, where analyzed alone then introduced in a model cosmetic gel (1 and 10% wt.). A blank gel was used as a control. Rheological properties were investigated by flow and viscoelasticity experiments. Thermal behavior was studied by Differential Scanning Calorimetry and Thermogravimetric Analysis. Finally, the impact of NaDES on cosmetic gel sensory properties was evaluated by an expert panel.

**RESULTS:** The impact of the introduction of NaDES in the gel is different from one family to another. Globally, gels maintain a rheofluidic behavior, i.e. their viscosity decreases when the shear rate increases. The viscosity at low shear rates is dependent on the concentration of NaDES. This is less obvious for high shear rates, which correspond to the spreading, pumping in a vial or spraying. These results are confronted with calorimetric measurements. Finally, sensory analysis allows us to put the physico-chemical results into perspective with the global impact on the consumer's perception. Four descriptors were particularly relevant: odor, visual viscosity, stringyness and stickyness.

**CONCLUSION:** NaDES could be a major actor in the hands of the cosmetic industry to switch towards more environmentally friendly bio-based ingredients preparation. Nevertheless, our results demonstrate that their use may have an impact on the consumer's experience and that this impact may be partially anticipated thanks to thorough study of the physico-chemical and sensory properties of blank NaDES.

**Keywords:** Natural deep eutectic solvent; sensory properties; rheology; gels; TGA/DSC

## References

[1] Liu Y, Friensen JB, McAlpine JB, Lankin DC, Chen SN, Pauli GF, J Nat Prod, 2018 81(3):679-690.

[2] El Achkar T, Fourmentin S, Greige-Gerges H, J Mol Liq, 2019, 88: 111028.

[3] Wils L, Leman-Loubière C, Bellin N, Clément-Larosière B, Pinault M, Chevalier S, Enguehard-Gueiffier C, Bodet C, Boudesocque-Delaye L, Algal Res 2021, 56: 102317.

<footnote n="1">¹ EA 6295 Nanomédicaments et Nanosondes, Faculté de Pharmacie, Université de Tours, 31 Avenue Monge, 37200 Tours, France.</footnote>

<footnote n="2">² EA 7502 Synthèse et Isolement de Molécules BioActives (SIMBA), Université de Tours, 31 Avenue Monge, 37200 Tours, France</footnote>

<footnote n="3">³ RCP-Design Global, 56 Avenue Marcel Dassault, 37200 Tours, France</footnote>

<footnote n="4">⁴ ISCR-CSM (Institut des Sciences Chimiques de Rennes) – UMR 6226, 263 Avenue Général Leclerc, 35700 Rennes, France</footnote>

<footnote>*Corresponding author e-mail: emilie.munnier@univ-tours.fr</footnote>