Rinse away face masque

A face masque composition useful for treating human skin for improvement comprising about 1-70% of a hydrolzed grain endproduct, about, 0.1-15% of a seaweed derivative and about 20-95% water.

TECHNICAL FIELD 
The invention is directed to a composition containing hydrolyzed grain 
endproducts of maltodextrin or corn syrup solids, and seaweed derivatives 
which composition is used as a face masque for human skin. 
BACKGROUND OF INVENTION 
Face masques are skin treatment products which produce a variety of 
favorable results for the user. There are two general categories of face 
masques: a peel-off type and a rinse-away type. Both types require that a 
film coating be formed to contour the face. The peel-off type is removed 
by physically peeling the film away from the face and the rinse-away type 
is removed by thorough rinsing with tap water. 
The major function of most masques is to deep clean facial skin by removing 
dead skin cells. Masques may also improve capillary blood circulation, 
cleanse, retexturize, firm and moisturize as well as stimulate the skin 
and increase cell regeneration. Moreover, masques tone the skin as would a 
muscle and their employment can be considered a beneficial exercise for 
the face in which the indulger hopes to gain a more youthful appearance. 
Most rinse-away masques contain special ingredients which can influence the 
masque's method of employment. "Homemade" masks prepared from household 
ingredients have been used long before the introduction of modern 
commercial cosmetic masques. Homemade masks usually employ special 
ingredients based upon fruit or vegetables, for example cucumber masks, 
strawberry masks and honey masks are not uncommon. A recipe for an apple 
mask claims that apples can refresh and rejuvenate the skin and suggests: 
"cook one peeled and cored apple in a small amount of milk, mash together 
and apply the mixture." Homemade masks are based upon the virtues of 
natural ingredients which are judged to be wholesome, healthful, safe and 
beneficial to the skin. Homemade masks have several disadvantages, 
however. They are time consuming to prepare, their effects are somewhat 
limited and questioned, they can vary considerably from preparation to 
preparation according to the expertise of the cook-formulator, and they 
have to be remade for each new application since they spoil if stored. 
Moreover, homemade masques do not have the cosmetic elegance necessary for 
modern cosmetic face treatment products. Today's products differ from the 
"old-fashioned" masques by their improved cosmetic elegance, their 
convenience, their attribute of "deep" cleansing and the sensuous effects 
which they impart to skin. 
Some cosmetic face masques have been adapted from moisturizing creams. 
Here, heavy aqueous emulsions, laden with mineral oils, esters, 
triglycerides and waxy materials, are applied to the face in the form of 
an opaque emollient coating. As the cream remains on the face water 
evaporates imparting a cooling sensation to the skin. After 10 or 15 
minutes the cream is rinsed off the face leaving the skin looking clean 
and feeling hydrated, soft and smooth. 
In addition to hydrophobic ingredients, masques may contain surfactants, 
preservatives, fragrance, colorants and special ingredients such as 
botanicals which enhance therapeutic and cosmetic properties. 
Clay or mud masques are also popular and based upon the absorptive nature 
of inorganic clays or "muds". The clay ingredients generally employed in 
contemporary cosmetic masks are bentonite, kaolin, montmorillonite, or 
mixtures thereof. They may be supported by other inorganics such as 
alumina and talc, and may be optionally colored earthtone with iron oxide. 
These materials are formulated into aesthetic products using an array of 
conventional ingredients such as wetting, suspending and dispersing 
surfactants, hydrocolloid thickeners, preservatives, fragrance, and so on. 
Clay face masques permit deep cleansing of the skin due to the absorptive 
properties of the clay raw materials. After applying a clay masque to the 
face it dries and cools because of the evaporation of the aqueous vehicle. 
The masque contracts producing a tightening sensation on the skin, an 
astringency. As it dries, it hardens and the iron pigments, which produce 
earthtone shades, change color giving an additional visual effect. After 
hardening is completed, or near complete as specified by product 
directions, the masque is rinsed away with water. The face is left feeling 
relieved of constraint and totally refreshed. 
Sometimes special organic ingredients are added to face masques, for 
example high molecular weight synthetic polymers which help film 
formation, or powdered egg white whose aqueous film is known to produce 
skin like coatings which are astringent during drying. Unless ingredients 
like egg white are used at high concentrations to give specific and 
perceptible effects their use in masque formulas is merely promotional. 
However, promotional ingredients do play an important role not only in 
masques but in all cosmetic formulas because they capture the fancy of the 
consumer and induce purchase of the product. After purchase and after 
application the inherent properties and benefits of the masque will 
determine if the consumer will repurchase the product. 
Although the advantages of contemporary cosmetic face masques are quite 
demonstrable, there are a number of disadvantages associated with them as 
well: 
Emollient masques are greasy and can stain towelling and clothing if not 
carefully applied. 
Clay masks are messy during application and during rinse-off. They can soil 
bathroom appointments with heavy and colored muds. 
All masques can be embarrassingly funny looking. They place the face in an 
artifical cast. An unnatural appearance during employment of the masque 
can startle if not frighten a passerby who unintentionally intrudes. 
Masque employment requires patience. They dry slowly, requiring 10, 15 or 
more minutes before rinse-off. The prolonged time may be discomforting to 
the user since masques tend to harden and shrink on the face. 
Masques generally are non-routine face treatments, lending themselves to 
use somewhat infrequently. Some masques, however, can be used several 
times a week but are hardly ever recommended for daily application. 
Some masques do not satisfy the user's total objective. They provide 
limited improvement of facial skin, they may have disagreeable 
side-effects such as acting harshly on the skin; they may not cleanse 
satisfactorily, or they may not provide sufficient sensuous effect. In 
brief, modern cosmetic face masque technology has come a long way from old 
fashioned homemade masks but they have much to gain in future improvement. 
SUMMARY OF INVENTION 
The invention is directed to a face masque composition used to impart 
improved properties to human skin comprising about 1-70% of a hydrolyzed 
grain endproduct, about 0.1-15% of a seaweed derivative and about 20-95% 
water. 
The invention is a also directed to a method for treating human skin for 
improvement comprising administering to the facial skin a face masque 
composition comprised of about 1-70% of a hydrolyzed grain endproduct, 
about 0.1-15% of a seaweed derivative, and about 20-95% water. 
DETAILED DESCRIPTION 
It has been discovered that by combining two natural polysaccharides a 
superior rinse-away face masque which is free of the many disadvantages 
that are associated with contemporary cosmetic masques can be obtained. 
The face masque composition of the invention comprises about 1-70% of a 
hydrolyzed grain endproduct which is maltodextrin or corn syrup solids. 
Maltodextrins tend to be highly water soluble glucose polymers obtained 
from the reaction of starch with acid and/or enzymes in the presence of 
water. The ensuing hydrolysis results in a carbohydrate mixture of various 
saccharides with a Dextrose Equivalence (DE) of less than 20. Corn syrup 
solids are produced by a similar process but have a DE of 20 or higher. 
Dextrose Equivalence is a measure of the degree of starch polymer 
hydrolysis determined by quantitative analysis. It is defined as reducing 
sugars expressed as dextrose and reported as a percentage of the dry 
substance. The United States Food and Drug Administration (F.D.A.) defines 
maltodextrins, (C.sub.6 H.sub.10 O.sub.5).sub.n .cndot.H.sub.2 O, as 
nonsweet, nutritive saccharide polymers that consist of D-glucose units 
linked primarily by alpha-1-4 bonds having a DE less than 20. It is 
prepared as a a white powder or concentrated solution by partial 
hydrolysis of corn starch with safe and suitable acids and/or enzymes. 
Maltodextrin is generally recognized as safe (GRAS) as a human food 
ingredient. Corn syrup solids, (C.sub.6 H.sub.10 O.sub.5).sub. n 
.cndot.H.sub.2 O, are defined as dried glucose syrup in which the reducing 
sugar content is 20. or higher. Corn syrup solids are also generally 
recognized as safe by the F.D.A. 
In addition the composition of the invention contains about 0.1-15% of a 
seaweed derivative. The appropriate seaweed derivatives are salts or 
esters of alginic acid, carrageenans, or agar. Algin is the polysaccharide 
extracted from brown seaweed. It exists in seaweed as a form of alginic 
acid and its various salts. Derivatives of alginic acid and its salts are 
available from Kelco, Division of Merck & Co., Clark, N.J. 
The various alginates are graded by their degree of polymerization. In 
general low molecular weight polymers give low viscosity aqueous solutions 
and high molecular weight polymers give viscous solutions. Salts or esters 
of alginic acid which are suitable include sodium alginate, ammonium 
alginate, propylene glycol alginate, potassium alginate, calcium alginate 
or blends of any of the above. Preferred are the salts of alginates, 
particularly sodium alginate. 
The appropriate amount of hydrolyzed grain endproduct and seaweed 
derivative is mixed in about 20-95% water to yield a gel with a cream-like 
consistency. Example 1 sets forth various compositions suitable for masque 
application. 
The hydrolyzed grain endproduct component, maltodextrin or corn syrup 
solids, is a macromolecule carbohydrate that can be highly soluble in 
water. At very high concentrations in aqueous solutions it demonstrates 
relatively low viscosity rendering it unsuitable for face masque 
consideration by itself. However, maltodextrin can provide the bulk and 
body required for adequate film formation. The alginate component, 
comprising alginic acid and/or its derivatives from seaweed, gives highly 
viscous aqueous solutions at considerably lower concentrations than 
maltodextrin. Alginates by themselves are unsuitable for specified face 
masque compositions. However, when combined with maltodextrin the alginate 
augments the maltodextrin by producing the thickening and thixotropic 
consistency needed for masque application. Surprising, both macromolecules 
are compatible in solution. After evaporation their combined film tends to 
plasticize more readily and provide unexpected and welcomed effects on the 
face. It rinses away freely and leaves the skin feeling soft, toned, and 
refreshed. 
The essential face masque composition can be formulated for its many 
advantages and also to avoid many of the drawbacks present in other 
rinse-away masques. The masque cools the skin and acts astringently as it 
dries to a transparent film (if desired) on the face. It can be applied 
quickly and can dry rapidly, within 5 minutes or so. It is a convenient 
facial treatment because it deep cleans leaving the skin feeling smooth, 
the face feeling refreshed, toned, and young looking. It may be used in 
the daily routine just prior to facial makeup, or nightly, after makeup 
removal. 
The preferred range of essential components in the composition of the 
invention are 5-60% maltodextrin, 1-6% alginate, and 40-85% water. 
It is highly desirable to enhance the aesthetic potential of the face 
masque composition by adding one or more of a preservative, humectant, 
surfactant, fragrance, colorant, plasticizer, buffer, moisturizer, 
opacifier, or texturizer. 
A wide variety of preservatives are suitable including but not limited to 
methyl paraben, propyl paraben, quaternium-15, EDTA, imidazolidinyl urea, 
sodium dehydroacetate, DMDM hydantoin, etc. 
The humectants may be glycerin, urea, glycerin, collagen, butylene glycol, 
ethyl hexane diol, lactic acid, sodium lactate, orotic acid, sorbitol, 
sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate, polyethylene glycol, etc. 
A wide variety of surfactants are suitable including but not limited to 
alkyl glycoside surfactants, other nonionic surfactants such as 
polysorbate 20, polysorbate 60, nonoxynol 12, octoxynol 9, oleamine oxide, 
stearamine oxide, cocodiethanol amide, polyethoxylated fatty amines, etc. 
Suitable anionic surfactants include but are not limited to sodium lauryl 
sulfate, other salts of higher alkyl sulfates such as potassium lauryl 
sulfate; salts of alkyl ether sulfates such as polyoxyethylene 
triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, polyoxyethylene sodium lauryl sulfate; 
salts of alkyl ether sulfates such as polyoxyethylene triethanolamine 
lauryl sulfate or polyoxyethylene sodium lauryl sulfate; N-acyl 
sarcosinates; salts of higher fatty acid amide sulfonic acids; salts of 
phosphates such as polyoxyethylene sodium oleyl ether phosphate, or 
polyoxyethylene stearyl ether phosphate, etc. 
Suitable cationic surfactants include but are not limited to, cetyl 
trimethylammonium chloride, stearylkonium chloride, tricetylammonium 
chloride, stearyl trimethylammonium chloride, or other alkyl 
trimethylammonium salts such as lauryl trimethylammonium chloride; alkyl 
pyridinium salts such as distearyl dimethyl ammonium dialkyl dimethyl 
ammonium chloride, cetyl pyridinium chloride, alkyl quaternary amonium 
salt, alkyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium salt, etc. 
Amphoteric surfactants may also be used, for example cocoamphopropionate, 
soyamidopropyl betaine, tallow betaine, caproamphodiacetate, 
lauroamphodipropionate, etc. 
Fragrances are also optional and include but are not limited to eucalyptol, 
balsam, herb, honey, floral, citrus, apple or menthol. 
Plasticizers can include glycerine, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, 
ethoxylated lanolin alcohols, and various alkoxylated long chain alcohols, 
carboxylic acids and esters. 
It is sometimes desireable to add solutions which buffer or regulate the pH 
of the masque composition. Appropriate pH regulators include acids, 
alkalis, and their salts including but not limited to salicylic acid, 
phosphoric acid, citric acid, sorbic acid, sodium hydroxide, ammonium 
hydroxide, etc. 
Colorants will also impart a pleasant color to the face masque composition. 
Examples of suitable colorants include all of the FD&C colors approved for 
cosmetic use as well as, various inorganic pigments, reflective metal 
oxide micas, cholesteric liquid crystals, etc. 
Moisturizers are very desireable additives also. A wide variety of 
moisturizing agents may be used, including but not limited to hyaluronic 
acid, aloe extract, mucopolysaccharides, royal jelly, 
methoxypropylgluconamide, hydrolyzed protein, allantoin, and so on. 
Texturizers are desireable since they impart better texture to the skin. 
Suitable texturizers are methoxypropylgluconamide, fatty amine and 
quaternary ammonium salts, silicone derivatives such as dimethicone 
polyol, alkoxylated fatty alcohols & acids, cationic polymers, etc. 
On some occasions it may be desired to enhance or impart opacifying agents 
to enhance a particular characteristic. One such known opacifying agent is 
insoluble apple pectin although many others are suitable. 
In the preferred embodiment of the invention the masque composition 
contains 5-60% maltodextrin, 1-6% of a salt or ester of alginic acid and 
40-85% water and may contain, in addition, one or more of the following 
optional components in the ranges set forth below: 
______________________________________ 
Moisturizer 0.1-3.0% 
Surfactant 0.1-7.0% 
Texturizer 0.05-10% 
Fragrance 0.05-1.0% 
Plasticizer 0.1-2.0% 
Preservative 0.01-1.0% 
Humectant 0.1-1.0% 
Opacifier 0.1-10% 
Buffer 0.1-5% 
Colorant .05-15% 
______________________________________ 
The preferred face masque composition of the invention is set forth in 
Example 2 and additionally contains a surfactant, a texturizer, a 
fragrance and a preservative. The preferred texturizing agent is 
methoxypropylgluconamide which compound is described in U.S. patent 
application Ser. No. 184,858 which corresponds to Published European 
Patent Application 89107155.7 which is hereby incorporated by reference, 
and the preferred surfactant is an alkyl glycoside surfactant resulting in 
a composition having the following preferred ranges: 
______________________________________ 
Maltodextrin 5-60% 
Sodium Alginate 2-6 
Methoxypropylgluconamide 
0.05-2.0 
Alkyl glycoside surfactant 
0.1-7.0 
Water 40-85 
Fragrance 0.5-1.0 
Preservative 0.01-1.0 
______________________________________ 
The invention is also directed to a method for treating human skin for 
improvement comprising administering to the facial skin a face masque 
composition comprised of about 1-70% of a hydrolyzed grain endproduct, 
about 0.1-15% of a seaweed derivative, and about 20-95% water. 
The composition is evenly applied to the face. It dries to a transparent 
film in about 5-15 minutes. The face is then rinsed well with water to 
remove the masque. The face feels refreshed, clean, and toned. 
The words "impart improved properties" or "treating human skin for 
improvement" means the treatment of skin by imparting moisture, 
refreshment, smoothness, texture, cleansing, firming, toning, cooling, 
tightening, and so on. 
The invention will be further described in connection with the following 
examples which are set forth for the purposes of illustration only.

EXAMPLE 1 
Maltodextrins of varying DE's were mixed with various grades of sodium 
alginate to yield compositions suitable for face masque application. 
______________________________________ 
A. Maltodextrin - DE 18 50.0 
Sodium Alginate - (intermediate viscosity) 
3.5 
Water qs 100.0 
B. Maltodextrin - DE 13 25.0 
Sodium Alginate - (intermediate viscosity) 
3.5 
Water qs 100.0 
C. Maltodextrin - DE 17 60.0 
Sodium Alginate - (high viscosity) 
0.5 
Water qs 100.0 
D. Maltodextrin - DE 5 5.0 
Sodium Alginate - (high viscosity) 
1.0 
Water qs 100.0 
E. Maltodextrin - DE 19 15.0 
Sodium Alginate - (low viscosity) 
10.0 
Water qs 100.0 
______________________________________ 
EXAMPLE 2 
A face masque composition containing additional ingredients was made as 
follows. Note: all maltodextrin derivatives were obtained from Grain 
Processing Corporation, Muscatine, Iowa. All alginate derivatives were 
obtained from Kelco, Division of Merck & Co., Clark, N.J. 
______________________________________ 
Maltrin M-180 .RTM. (Maltodextrin) 
25.0% 
Methoxypropylgluconamide 
1.0 
Water 69.35 
Alkyl glycoside surfactant (100%) 
0.6 
Kelgin F .RTM. (Sodium Alginate) 
3.5 
Eucalyptol 0.15 
Preservative 0.4 
______________________________________ 
Methoxypropylgluconamide is a special ingredient which acts as a 
texturizer. It is believed to reduce the layers of corneocytes in the skin 
which causes reduction in the thickness of the stratum corneum which in 
turn improves the flexibility and smoothness of the skin's surface. It 
also helps to alleviate dry skin conditions. 
The Maltrin.RTM. was dissolved with the methoxypropylgluconamide in water, 
the surfactant added and the preparation heated to 70.degree. C. Sodium 
alginate was slowly added, dissolved, and followed by the remaining 
ingredients. This formulation was a clear gel with a creme-like 
consistency. When applied to the face as a thin clear film it dried in 5 
minutes, producing an astringent effect on the skin. After rinse-off it 
left the skin feeling soft, looking rejuvinated and clean. The pH of the 
formulation was about 6.43. 
EXAMPLE 3 
A face masque composition was made as follows: 
______________________________________ 
Maltrin M-180 .RTM. (Maltodextrin) 
50.0% 
Kelgin F .RTM. (Sodium Alginate) 
2.0 
Preservative 0.2 
Glycerin 0.5 
Alkyl glycoside surfactant (100%) 
1.8 
Eucalyptol 0.15 
Water 45.35 
______________________________________ 
The Maltrin.RTM. was dissolved in water and brought to 70.degree. C. 
Glycerin and alkyl glycoside surfactant were added. Keeping the 
temperature at 70.degree. C..+-.5.degree. C., sodium alginate was slowly 
added to the vortex formed by mixer agitation. After adequate stirring to 
dissolve the sodium alginate with minimum air entrapment the eucalyptol 
and preservative were mixed in. Upon cooling the resulting solution was 
clear, slightly amber colored, and highly viscous. The solution was 
carefully filled into high density polyethylene tubes and the bottoms of 
the tubes were heatcrimp sealed. The product was applied to the face as a 
clear film. It filled in wrinkles and creases of the skin. After drying 
and hardening it was rinsed off to leave the face feeling refreshed, the 
skin soft. 
The following formulations demonstrate further embodiments of the 
invention. 
EXAMPLE 4 
______________________________________ 
Maltrin M-040 .RTM. (Maltodextrin) 
12.0 
Kelcoloid HVF .RTM. (Propylene Glycol Alginate) 
10.0 
Salicylic Acid 0.1 
Polysorbate 20 0.5 
Preservative 0.2 
Balsamic Fragrance 0.1 
Reflective TiO.sub.2 /Fe.sub.2 O.sub.3 coated mica 
0.2 
Water qs 100.0 
______________________________________ 
EXAMPLE 5 
______________________________________ 
Maltrin M-550 .RTM. (Maltodextrin) 
25.0 
Kelmar .RTM. (Potassium Alginate) 
6.0 
Hyaluronic Acid 0.3 
Nonoxynol 12 1.0 
Aloe Extract 1.0 
Preservative 0.3 
Herbal Fragrance 0.3 
FD&C Green #5 (2% aqueous) 
0.1 
Water qs 100.0 
______________________________________ 
EXAMPLE 6 
______________________________________ 
Maltrin M-180 .RTM. (Maltodextrin) 
30.0 
Kelset (Sodium/Calcium Alginate) 
3.0 
Mucopolysaccharides 0.4 
Royal Jelly 0.1 
Preservative 0.2 
Honey Fragrance 0.3 
Octoxynol 9 0.9 
Water qs 100.0 
______________________________________ 
EXAMPLE 7 
______________________________________ 
Maltrin M-100 .RTM. (Maltodextrin) 
20.0 
Maltrin M-040 .RTM. (Maltodextrin) 
5.0 
Kelgin F (Sodium Alginate) 
3.5 
Cetyl trimethylammonium chloride 
0.1 
Sodium chloride 2.5 
Polysorbate 60 0.3 
Lemon fragrance 0.1 
Citrus extract 0.5 
Preservative 0.25 
Water qs 100.0 
______________________________________ 
Although the essential binary composition produces clear films on the face 
which have great advantage, the virtues of the physical properties of the 
inventive film should not restrict itself solely to clear orientation. The 
formulations below are not clear: 
EXAMPLE 
______________________________________ 
Maltrin M-180 .RTM. (Maltodextrin) 
20.0 
Maltrin M-050 .RTM. (Maltodextrin) 
5.0 
Kelgin HV .RTM. (Sodium Alginate) 
2.0 
Apple pectin 5.0 
Dimethicone 0.5 
Sodium lauryl sulfate 0.4 
Apple fragrance 0.5 
Preservative 0.4 
Red colorant 0.3 
Water qs 100.0 
______________________________________ 
EXAMPLE 9 
______________________________________ 
Maltrin M-150 .RTM. (Maltodextrin) 
37.0 
Kelgin MV .RTM. (Sodium Alginate) 
3.0 
Cholesteric liquid crystals 
10.0 
Menthol 0.2 
Hydrolyzed protein 0.2 
Alkyl glycoside surfactant 
2.0 
Polysorbate 20 3.0 
Preservative 0.3 
Water qs 100.0 
______________________________________ 
EXAMPLE 10 IN VIVO EVALUATION 
The face masque composition of Example 2 was evaluated in-situ in a test on 
twelve omen who regularly use rinse-away masques. Prior to testing the 
formulation was screened for safety and shown to be very mild to the skin 
and virtually non-irritating to the eyes. 
The women were asked to apply a thin film of masque over their face after 
they had removed all makeup. The masque was allowed to dry and then rinsed 
away with warm water. The face was patted dry and makeup applied. A 
summary of the test results highlighted the following points: 
All 12 panelists found the skin masque to apply acceptably. 
Eleven out of 12 panelists found the masque to rinse acceptably. 
All 12 panelists found the skin clean, soft and smooth. 
Seven out of 12 panelists found the Eucalyptol odor unpleasant. 
Eleven out of 12 panelists said they would purchase the product. 
Most panelists volunteered the response that the product tightened the skin 
and was cooling. Some said that makeup was easier to apply after treatment 
.