Water and oil emulsion solid cosmetic composition

A water and oil emulsion solid cosmetic composition comprising 0.1-20% of a primary soap based gelling agent, 0.01-20% of a secondary gelling agent selected from the group consisting of an aqueous phase gelling agent, an oil phase gelling agent; and mixtures thereof, 0.1-30% emollient oil, 0.1-20% surfactant, 0.1-50% particulates having a particle size of 0.5 to 100 microns, and 5-95% water. The composition is moisturizing, provides a cool feel on application, and a smooth finish on the skin.

TECHNICAL FIELD 
The invention is in the field of solid cosmetic compositions for 
application to skin and lips. 
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
Cosmetic compositions such as make-up, blush, lipstick, eyeshadow, and 
concealer are often sold in the form of sticks or solids. Sticks are 
advantageous because they can be applied directly to the skin, removing 
the need for applicators. Solids are often dispensed from various types of 
compacts. While the latter often require applicators, their solid form 
prevents them from dripping and leaking. Most often, solids in the form of 
sticks are anhydrous, and require significant amounts of wax or powder to 
form the stick structure. This, in turn, causes certain undesireable 
properties. For example, sticks containing large amounts of powder tend to 
be very brittle and easily broken, and the film applied to the skin or 
lips may feel dry. Sticks which contain appreciable levels of wax may have 
undesireable payoff characteristics, and the film applied to skin or lips 
may feel too heavy and greasy. Inclusion of water in the stick composition 
would help to combat the undesireable effects, however most of the 
ingredients which are necessary to formulate aethestically pleasing 
cosmetic sticks are not compatible with water. Thus, it has been difficult 
to formulate pigmented cosmetic sticks or solids which contain significant 
amounts of water and yet still exhibit commercially acceptable properties. 
Such water-containing sticks have been traditionally very unstable. 
Accordingly, there is a need for stable, pigmented cosmetic sticks and 
solids containing appreciable levels of water. 
It is an object of the invention to formulate solid cosmetic compositions 
which provide a cooling feel to the skin, a smooth texture finish when 
applied to the skin. 
It is an object of the invention to formulate solid or stick cosmetic 
compositions which are capable of moisturizing the skin. 
It is an object of the invention to formulate stable, pigmented cosmetic 
sticks which contain appreciable amounts of water. 
It is an object of the invention to formulate stable, pigmented cosmetic 
sticks in the emulsion form, i.e. water-in-oil or oil-in-water. 
It is an object of the invention to provide a stable make-up stick or solid 
for application to skin as a foundation. 
It is an object of the invention to provide stable, pigmented cosmetic 
sticks or solids for application as blush, eyeshadow, concealer, lipstick, 
and the like. 
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
The invention is directed to a water and oil emulsion solid cosmetic 
composition comprising, by weight of the total composition: 
0.1-20% of a carboxylated salt gelling agent, 
0.01-20% of a secondary gelling agent selected from the group consisting 
of: 
(a) an aqueous phase gelling agent, 
(b) a oil phase gelling agent; and 
(c) mixtures thereof, 
0.1-30% emollient oil, 
0.1-20% surfactant, 
0.1-50% particulates having a particle size of 0.5 to 100 microns, and 
5-95% water. 
DETAILED DESCRIPTION 
All percentages mentioned herein are percentages by weight unless otherwise 
indicated. The term "solid" means that the cosmetic stick compositions are 
solid or semi-solid at room temperature, i.e. 25.degree. C. The 
compositions may also be in the form of a stick. The term "stick" refers 
to cosmetic compositions having a consistency such that they can be molded 
into the form of a stick--for instance by being heated until molten and 
then poured into a mold and cooled. Also included within the definition of 
"stick" are anhydrous compositions of the invention that are capable of 
being formed into sticks, but are poured into pans or other types of cake 
or cream forms to deliver certain consumer benefits. For example, an 
eyeshadow composition in accordance with the invention may be molded in 
the stick form, but it may be desired to pour it into a pan because this 
container is more desireable from a consumer standpoint. 
I. Primary Carboxylated Salt Gelling Agent 
The cosmetic stick compositions of the invention comprise 0.1-20%, 
preferably 0.5-15%, more preferably 1-10% of a primary gelling agent which 
is a carboxylated salt gelling agent. The term "carboxylated salt gelling 
agent" means the gelling agent is formed by the reaction of a salt with a 
compound containing at least one carboxylic acid group. Preferably the 
carboxylic acid-containing compound is a fatty acid and the carboxylated 
salt gelling agent is the salt of a water insoluble fatty acid and a base. 
While the fatty acid used to make the carboxylated salt gelling agent is 
generally water insoluble, the resulting gelling agent may be water 
soluble or water insoluble. Preferably, the carboxylated salt gelling 
agent in accordance with this invention is water soluble, i.e. after the 
water insoluble fatty acid is reacted with the metallic cation (such as 
sodium) the gelling agent is water soluble. Suitable fatty acids used to 
make the gelling agent are C.sub.12-40 straight or branched chain, 
saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. Suitable fatty acids include lauric, 
myristic, palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, behenic, 
caprylic, stearic, and so on. In addition, oils containing fatty acid 
mixtures, such as palm kernel, olive, tallow, peanut, rapeseed, and the 
like may be used as the fatty acid component. Preferred are C.sub.16-22 
fatty acids such as lauric, stearic, or behenic. Most preferred is where 
the fatty acid is stearic acid. 
A variety of cations may be used. Generally the type of cation selected 
will determine whether the resulting gelling agent is water soluble or 
water insoluble. Generally cations such as sodium, potassium, or low 
molecular weight amines or alkanolamines will provide water soluble 
gelling agents. Suitable amines are ammonia and derivatives thereof. 
Suitable alkanolamines include mono- di- and triethanolamines. 
Examples of gelling agents which may be used in the compositions of the 
invention are sodium, potassium, aluminum, magnesium, or calcium salts of 
stearic, behenic, caprylic, tallowic, tallic, cocoic, or lauric acids, and 
so on. Preferably the gelling agent used in the compositions of the 
invention are water soluble salts of fatty acids and sodium, and in 
particular sodium stearate. 
II. The Secondary Gelling Agent 
The compositions of the invention comprise 0.01-30%, preferably 0.1-20%, 
more preferably 0.5-15% of a secondary gelling agent which is an aqueous 
phase gelling agent, an oil phase gelling agent, or mixtures thereof. 
Preferably the compositions of the invention contain both an aqueous phase 
gelling agent and an oil phase gelling agent, which will provide optimal 
long term stability. 
A. Aqueous Phase Gelling Agent 
The term "aqueous phase gelling agent" means an ingredient which is capable 
of gelling the aqueous phase in the emulsion compositions of the 
invention. The phrase "capable of gelling the aqueous phase" means the 
gelling agent, upon mixing with water in a ratio of about 1 to 1 at room 
temperature (25.degree. C.) is capable of forming either a soft gel having 
a gel having a viscosity of about 1,000 to 800,000 centipoise at 
25.degree. C., and/or a gel strength of about 10 to 5,000 grams/cm.sup.2 
at 25.degree. C. as measured using a TA.XT2i texture analyzer with a 1/2 
inch diameter cylindrical probe. In order to be an adequate aqueous phase 
gelling agent, the ingredient is preferably water soluble, and may be 
either nonionic or anionic in character. A variety of gelling agents are 
suitable for gelling the aqueous phase, including polysaccharides, PPC's, 
acrylic polymers, and the like. 
(1) Polysaccharides 
Polysaccharides are suitable aqueous phase gelling agents. Examples of 
polysaccharides include galactans, galactomannans, glucomannans, 
polyuronic acids, and the like. Preferably the polysaccharides exhibit 
pendant hydrophilic groups, which are preferably sulfate. Suitable 
galactans are agar, agarose, kappa carageenan, iota carageenan, lambda 
carageenan, and the like. Examples of suitable galactomannans are locust 
bean gum and guar; examples of glucans are cellulose, starch, dextrans, 
pullulan, beta 1,3-glucans, chitin, xanthan, tamarind and the like; 
examples of glucomannans are konjac; examples of polyuronic acids are 
algin, alginates, pectins; examples of heteropolysaccharides are gellan, 
welan, gum arabic, karaya gum, okra gum, aloe gum, gum tragacanth, gum 
ghatti quinceseed gum, psyllium, starch arabinogalactan and so on. Also 
suitable are dextran sulfate, heparin, pectin, sodium alginate, cellulose 
gum, cellulose acetate priopionate carboxylate, hydroxyethyl cellulose, 
hydroxypropyl cellulose, and the like, and mixtures thereof. The 
polysaccharides may be derivatized with various groups such as sulfate, 
carboxylate, hydroxyl, and so on, provided the resulting polysaccharide 
still retains water solubility, or at the very least water dispersibility. 
Preferred are galactans, particularly galactans where the pendant 
hydrophilic groups are sulfate groups. Most preferred is agar and 
carageenan, which are anionic polysaccharides comprised of basic repeating 
units of 1,3-linked beta-D-galactopyranose and 1,4-linked 
3,6-anhydro-alpha-L-galactopyranose saccharide moieties and having pendant 
sulfate groups. These galactans may be further modified as taught in Aoki, 
T. T.; Araki & M. Kitamikado; 1990, Vibrio sp. AP-2. Eur. J. Biochem, 187, 
461-465, which is hereby incorporated by reference, provided it contains 
the requisite number of hydrophilic pendant groups. The average molecular 
weight of agar ranges between 35,700 and 144,000 daltons. The galactans 
suitable for use in the compositions of the invention may be from any 
suitable source or locale. For example an article authored by M. Lahaye 
and C. Rochas, Hydrobiologia, 221, 137-148, 1991, which is hereby 
incorporated by reference, discusses the numerous different types of 
galactans from different origins of seaweed species, all of which are 
suitable for use in the compositions of the invention. Also suitable for 
use in the compositions of the invention are chemically modified 
galactans, such as those taught in an article authored by K. B. Guiseley 
in Industrial Polysaccharides: Genetic Engineering. Structure/Property 
Relations and Applications, Edited by M. Yalpani, 1987, Elsevier Science 
Publishers, which is hereby incorporated by reference. The Guiseley 
article teaches methods for the chemical modification of agar to obtain 
optimum gelling properties. In general, any modification of the galactans 
which does not affect the helical conformation (i.e. which is obtained via 
linkage of the O6 and O4 of galactose to the O2 of 3,6-anhydrogalactose) 
will preserve the gelling capability and is suitable for use in the 
compositions of the invention provided the requisite number of hydrophilic 
groups are present. The hydrophilic groups provide a polysaccharide which 
is water soluble. 
(2) Protein/Polysaccharide Complexes ("PPC") 
Also suitable for use as the aqueous phase gelling agent are PPC's formed 
by the reaction of the anionic polysaccharides mentioned above and a 
protein. The term "protein" when used in accordance with this invention 
means a peptide chain having at least two amino acid residues, preferably 
at least five, and more preferably more than one hundred amino acid 
residues. Most preferably the protein is a high molecular weight 
polypeptide which is preferably water soluble, and may be natural, plant 
(vegetable) proteins, or animal derived proteins, as well as synthetic 
proteins provided they react with the hydrophilic pendant groups on the 
polysaccharide to form a PPC. The isoelectric point of the protein used to 
make the PPC is not critical. Examples of natural proteins include 
albumen, amylase, amyloglucosidase, arginine/lysine polypeptide, casein, 
catalase, collagen, crystalline, cytochrome C, deoxyribonuclease, elastin, 
fibronectin, gelatin, gliadin, glucose oxidase, glycoproteins, hexyldecyl 
ester of hydrolyzed collagen, human placental protein, human placental 
enzymes, iodized corn protein, keratin, lactoferrin, lactoglobulin, 
lactoperoxidase, lipase, milk protein, hyristoyl glycine/histidine/lysin 
polypeptide, nisin, oxido reductase, pancreatin, papin, pepsin, placental 
protein, protease, saccharomyces polypeptides, serum albumin, serum 
protein, silk, sodium stearoyl lactalbumin, soluble proteoglycan, soybean 
palmitate, soy, egg, peanut, cottonseed, sunflower, pea, whey, fish, 
seafood, subtilisin, superoxide dismutase, sutilains, sweet almond 
protein, urease, wheat germ protein, wheat protein, whey protein, zein, 
hydrolyzed vegetable protein, and the like. Preferred is casein which is a 
mixture of phosphoproteins obtained from cow's milk; and milk protein 
which is a mixture of proteins obtained from cow's milk. 
Synthetic proteins or polypeptides may also be suitable. Synthetic proteins 
may be made by solid phase synthesis, or via recombinant biotechnology 
proccesses. 
Generally, the amino and/or hydroxyl or carboxyl groups found on the 
protein will react with the pendant hydrophilic groups on the anionic 
polysaccharide to form a complex, either alone or in the presence of metal 
ions such as calcium, sodium, magnesium, iron, potassium, and the like, 
depending on the pH at which the complexation reaction is conducted. For 
example, if the complexation reaction is conducted above the isoelectric 
point of the protein used to make the PPC, it is preferable to use a metal 
ion to facilitate the complexation reaction. On the other hand, if the 
reaction is conducted at a pH which is at the isoelectric point of the 
protein used to make the PPC, a metal ion may be desired to facilitate 
complexation, but is not necessary. Typical reactions are as set forth 
below: 
Complexation Reaction Conducted at pH Above the Isoelectric Point of the 
Protein 
Protein 
##STR1## 
Polysaccharide with pendant sulfate groups 
With a typical reaction being: 
##STR2## 
Complexation reaction conducted a pH near the isoelectric point of protein 
Protein 
##STR3## 
Polysaccharide with pendant sulfate groups 
With typical reactions being: 
##STR4## 
Preferably, the ratio of protein to polysaccharide in the PPC is 1:100 to 
100:1, more preferably 1:50 to 50:1, most preferably 1:25 to 25:1. The PPC 
must contain a net negative charge. For example, when the protein having a 
net positive charge is reacted with the anionic polysaccharide having a 
net negative charge, the net negative charge of the polysaccharide is 
greater than the net positive charge of the protein, thus resulting in a 
PPC which has a net negative charge. This will ensure that the PPC is 
water soluble, or at the very least optimally dispersible in water. 
The PPC is made by combining appropriate amounts of the protein and 
polysaccharide in water at temperatures ranging from 25 to 90.degree. C. 
Some PPC's may form at room temperature depending on the protein and 
polysaccharide chosen to make the PPC. Suitable ratios are 100 to 1 parts 
of protein to 1 to 100 parts polysaccharide. The protein polysaccharide 
complexation reaction should be conducted at a pH which is greater than 
the isoelectric point of the protein used to make the PPC. If more than 
one protein is used to make the PPC, it is recommended that the pH be 
equal to or greater than one or more of the proteins used. Generally, when 
the complexation reaction is conducted at a pH which is below the 
isoelectric point of the protein, it is not necessary to add metal ions. 
However, at this pH, the PPC may form a water insoluble precipitate (also 
referred to as an M-complex). For example, the isoelectric point of casein 
is about 4.6. If the complexation reaction of casein with agar is 
conducted at pH 3.7, an M-complex (i.e. a water insoluble precipitate) is 
formed. Thus, it is preferred that the complexation reaction occur at a pH 
which is equal to or greater than the isoelectric point of the protein 
used to make the PPC. At this pH it may be desireable to add metal ions, 
such as calcium, potassium, sodium, magnesium, and the like, which will 
facilitate the complexation reaction. When the complexation reaction is 
conducted at a pH which is equal to or greater than the isoelectric point 
of the protein, a T-complex (also known as a water soluble or water 
dispersible complex) results. While optimally, a T-complex is formed at a 
pH which is equal to or greater than the isoelectric point of the protein 
used to form the PPC, after it is formed it is stable and may be 
incorporated into cosmetic compositions which have a pH which is 
substantially below the isoelectric point of the protein. 
Preferably the cosmetic compositions of the invention contain at least one 
PPC as the aqueous phase gelling agent, in particular a PPC which is the 
reaction product of casein or milk protein and agar. 
(3) Aqueous Acrylic Polymers 
Also suitable as aqueous phase gelling agents are anionic polymers, such as 
acrylic polymers which are generally sold in the form of aqueous solutions 
or dispersions. Such acrylic polymers may be homo- or copolymers of 
monomers such as acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid, methacrylic 
acid, C.sub.1-22 alkyl acrylates, C.sub.1-22 alkyl methacrylates, and so 
on. The monomers may also be copolymerized with other organic compounds 
such as alkoxylated fatty alcohols. The resulting polymers may also be 
cross-linked with cross-linking agents such as the allyl ether of sucrose, 
pentaerythritol, or propylene. 
Preferred are copolymers of monomers A or B, wherein A is selected from the 
group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof; 
and B is selected from the group consisting of a C.sub.1-22 alkyl 
acrylate, a C.sub.1-22 alky methacrylate, and mixtures thereof Preferably, 
the A monomer comprises one or more of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, 
and the B monomer is selected from the group consisting of a C.sub.1-10, 
most preferably C.sub.1-4 alkyl acrylate, a C.sub.1-10, most preferably 
C.sub.1-4 alkyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof. Most preferably the B 
monomer is one or more of methyl or ethyl acrylate or methacrylate. Most 
preferably, the acrylic copolymer is supplied in an aqueous solution 
having a solids content ranging from about 10-60%, preferably 20-50%, more 
preferably 25-45% by weight of the polymer, with the remainder water. The 
composition of the acrylic copolymer may contain from about 0.1-99 parts 
of the A monomer, and about 0.1-99 parts of the B monomer. One example of 
such an acrylic polymer solution is sold by Seppic, Inc., under the 
tradename Capigel, in particular, Capigel 98, which is a white liquid 
having a pH of 2 to 4, a solids content of about 29-31, a density of 1.04 
to 1.08, and a viscosity of 700-1000 millipascal seconds at 25.degree. C. 
Other types of polymers may contain A and B monomers which are 
copolymerized with alkoxylated fatty alcohols having the general formula: 
EQU R--(CH.sub.2 CH.sub.2 O).sub.n H 
wherein n is 1-500. 
Examples of polymers containing A and B monomers polymerized with 
alkoxylated alcohols include acrylates/steareth-50 acrylate copolymer, 
acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, and the like. Such polymers 
are sold under the tradenames Acrysol and Acculyn by Rohm & Haas, and 
Antil by Goldschmidt. 
Also suitable are homo- or copolymers of monomers A and B above, which are 
cross-linked with various cross-linking agents such as the allyl ether of 
sucrose, the allyl ether of pentaerythritol, or the allyl ether of 
propylene. Examples of these polymers include those sold under the CTFA 
name Carbomer, which is defined as a homopolymer of acrylic acid 
crosslinked with an allyl ether of sucrose, pentaerythritol, or propylene. 
Carbomers are sold under the tradename Carbopol by B. F. Goodrich or Tego 
by Goldschmidt, as well as other vendors. 
Preferably, the stick compositions of the invention contain an aqueous 
phase gelling agent which is an anionic polysaccharide or a PPC. 
B. Oil Phase Gelling Agent 
The cosmetic stick compositions of the invention may contain an oil phase 
gelling agent, either alone or in combination with an aqueous phase 
gelling agent. Preferably the cosmetic stick compositions of the invention 
contain an oil phase gelling agent in addition to an aqueous phase gelling 
agent. Suitable oil phase gellants are those which capable of gelling, or 
thickening, the oil phase in the emulsion compositions of the invention. 
The phrase "capable of gelling the aqueous phase" means the gelling agent, 
upon mixing with the oil phase in a ratio of about 1 to 1 at room 
temperature (25.degree. C.) is capable of forming either a soft gel having 
a gel having a viscosity of about 1,000 to 800,000 centipoise at 
25.degree. C., and/or a gel strength of about 10 to 5,000 grams/cm.sup.2 
at 25.degree. C. as measured using a TA.XT2i texture analyzer with a 1/2 
inch diameter cylindrical probe. The oil phase gelling agents are oil 
soluble rather than water soluble, and are preferably solids or 
semi-solids at 25.degree. C. Preferably, they have a melting point ranging 
from 32 to 100.degree. C. Examples of oil phase gelling agents include 
fatty alcohols, synthetic waxes, silicone elastomers, oleaginous materials 
such as lanolin and derivatives, castor oil and derivatives, and the like. 
(1) Fatty Alcohols 
Fatty alcohols are suitable oil phase gelling agents. Examples of fatty 
alcohols include C.sub.16-22 straight or branched chain alcohols such as 
stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or 
mixtures thereof. 
(2) Silicone Elastomers 
Silicone elastomers are also suitable oil phase gelling agents. Elastomers 
are generally defined as chain polymers having a degree of cross-linking 
sufficient to provide a rubber-like material. Suitable silicone elastomers 
are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,266,321, which is hereby incorporated by 
references. Other suitable silicone elastomers are disclosed in U.S. Pat. 
Nos. 4,980,167, and 4,742,142, and 5,599,533, which are hereby 
incorporated by reference. Preferably the elastomers are at least 
partially cross-linked, and are the reaction A product of an 
organopolysiloxane having unsaturated groups such as vinyl or allyl, 
preferably bonded to another Si atom, and another silicon compound capable 
of participating in the addition reaction, for example, an 
organohydrogenpolysiloxane. Silicone elastomers suitable for use are sold 
by Grant Industries under the Gransil tradename, GE Silicones, and Dow 
Corning Corporation. 
(3) Synthetic Waxes 
Synthetic waxes are also suitable oil phase gelling agents. Preferred 
synthetic waxes are ethylene homo- or ethylene copolymers. The molecular 
weight of the ethylene homopolymer and/or copolymers used as the wax 
component may vary, so long as the melting point of the homo- or copolymer 
either alone or in combination is not greater than 135.degree. C. 
Generally polyethylene waxes having a melting point range of 30 to 
135.degree. C. will have a molecular weight ranging from about 100 and 
2,000. Preferably the ethylene copolymers are comprised of ethylene 
monomer units in either repetitive or randon sequence, in combination with 
monomer units of the following formula: 
EQU CH.sub.2 =CH--R.sub.1 
wherein R.sub.1 is a C.sub.1-30 straight or branched chain saturated or 
unsaturated alkyl, aryl, or aralkyl, preferably a C.sub.1-10 straight or 
branched chain alkyl. Examples of ethylene homo- and copolymers which may 
be used in the invention are set forth in U.S. Pat. No. 5,556,613, which 
is hereby incorporated by reference. 
(4) FattyAcids 
Also suitable as oil phase gelling agents are fatty acids or hydroxy-fatty 
acids. Suitable fatty acids have 12-22 carbon atoms, and may be 
substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups in the carbon backbone. 
Preferred are hydroxyl subsituted fatty acids such as 12-hydroxystearic 
acid. 
(5) Hydrocarbons 
Also suitable are hydrocarbons such as petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, 
hydrogenated polyisobutene, paraffin, red petrolatum, squalene, squalane, 
and the like. 
(6) Oleaginous Materials 
Also suitable as the oil phase gelling agent are one or more oleaginous 
compounds which are solid or semi-solid at room temperature and have a 
melting point of 32 to 100.degree. C. Examples of such materials include 
lanolin and derivatives thereof such as lanolin alcohol, acetylated 
lanolin alcohol; or hydrogenated oils, such as hydrogenated castor oil, or 
alkoxylated hydrogenated castor oil. Preferably, one of the oil phase 
gelling agents is PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. 
(7) Animal and Plant Waxes 
Also suitable as the oil phase gelling agent are one or more animal or 
plant waxes. Examples of such compounds include apple wax, avocado wax, 
bayberry wax, carnauba wax, ceresin, beeswax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, 
hydrogenated jojoba wax, hydrogenated rice bran wax, hydrolyzed beeswax, 
jojoba butter, jojoba esters, jojoba wax, lanolin wax, mink wax, montan 
acid wax, montan wax, ouricury wax, ozokerite, palm kemal wax, PEG-5-20 
beeswax, PEG-12 carnauba, Rice wax, shellac wax, spent grain wax, 
sulfurized jojoba oil, synthetic beeswax, synthetic candellila wax, 
synthetic carnauba, synthetic jojoba wax, and mixtures thereof. 
(8) Hydrophobically Modified Materials 
Also suitable are hydrophobically modified materials such as 
hydrophobically modified silica, i.e. silica modified by substitution of a 
sufficient number of the hydroxyl groups with hydrophobic C.sub.1-4 alkyl 
groups, preferably methyl. Also, the polysaccharides which are mentioned 
as suitable for use in gelling the aqueous phase of the composition may be 
suitable for gelling the oil phase if they are hydrophobically modified so 
that they become oil soluble rather than water soluble. The term 
"hydrophobically modified" means that the polysaccharides are reacted with 
certain other compounds that confer hydrophobicity to the polysaccharide. 
An example of such a reaction would be the esterification of the hydroxyl 
groups on the polysaccharide with fatty acids. 
Preferably, in the cosmetic stick compositions of the invention the oil 
phase gelling agent is synthetic wax or PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, or 
mixtures thereof. 
III. Emollient Oil 
The compositions of the invention comprise 0.1-30%, preferably 0.5-25%, 
more preferably 1-20% by weight of the total composition of one or more 
emollient oils which are liquids at room temperature. The oil may be 
volatile or non-volatile. The term "volatile" means that the oil has a 
measureable vapor pressure, or a vapor pressure of at least 2 mm. of 
mercury at 20.degree. C. The term "nonvolatile" means that the oil has a 
vapor pressure of less than 2 mm. of mercury at 20.degree. C. If the 
cosmetic compositions of the invention are transfer resistant sticks, it 
is desireable to use significant amounts of volatile solvent for the oil 
component. Suitable volatile solvents or oils are liquids, and enable easy 
formulation of the cosmetic stick of the invention. When the cosmetic 
stick product of the invention is applied to skin or lips, the volatile 
solvent of the invention must be capable of flashing off to leave the 
other ingredients in the stick on the skin. Suitable volatile solvents 
generally have a viscosity of 0.5 to 10 centistokes at 25.degree. C. 
Suitable volatile oils include linear silicones, cyclic silicones, 
paraffinic hydrocarbons, or mixtures thereof. 
Cyclic silicones (or cyclomethicones) are of the general formula: 
##STR5## 
where n=3-7. Linear volatile silicones in accordance with the invention 
have the general formula: 
EQU (CH.sub.3).sub.3 Si--O--[Si(CH.sub.3).sub.2 --O].sub.n --Si(CH.sub.3).sub.3 
where n=0-7, preferably 0-5. 
Linear and cyclic volatile silicones are available from various commercial 
sources including Dow Coming Corporation and General Electric. The Dow 
Coming volatile silicones are sold under the tradenames Dow Coming 244, 
245, 344, and 200 fluids. These fluids comprise 
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, 
hexamethyldisiloxane, and mixtures thereof. 
Also suitable as the volatile oils are various straight or branched chain 
paraffinic hydrocarbons having 5 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably 8-20 
carbon atoms. Suitable hydrocarbons include pentane, hexane, heptane, 
decane, dodecane, tetradecane, tridecane, and C.sub.8-20 isoparaffins as 
disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,439,088 and 3,818,105, both of which are 
hereby incorporated by reference. Preferred volatile paraffinic 
hydrocarbons have a molecular weight of 70-225, preferably 160 to 190 and 
a boiling point range of 30 to 320, preferably 60-260 degrees C., and a 
viscosity of less than 10 cs. at 25 degrees C. Such paraffinic 
hydrocarbons are available from EXXON under the ISOS trademark, and 
from the Permethyl Corporation. Suitable C.sub.12 isoparaffins are 
manufactured by Permethyl Corporation under the tradename Permethyl 99A. 
Another C.sub.12 isoparaffin (isododecane) isidistributed by Presperse 
under the tradename Permethyl 99A. Various C.sub.16 isoparaffins 
commercially available, such as isohexadecane (having the tradenamne 
Permethyl R), are also suitable. Transfer resistant cosmetic sticks of the 
invention will generally comprise a mixture of volatile silicones and 
volatile paraffinic hydrocarbons. 
A wide variety of nonvolatile oils are also suitable for use in the 
cosmetic compositions of the invention. The nonvolatile oils generally 
have a viscosity of greater than 10 centipoise at 25.degree. C., and may 
range in viscosity up to 1,000,000 centipoise at 25.degree. C. Examples of 
nonvolatile oils suitable for use in the cosmetic sticks of the invention 
include esters of the formula RCO--OR' wherein R and R' are each 
independently a C.sub.1-25, preferably a C.sub.4-20 straight or branched 
chain alkyl, alkenyl or alkoxycarbonylalkyl or alkylcarbonyloxyalkyl. 
Examples of such esters include isotridecyl isononanoate, PEG-4 
diheptanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, cetyl 
octanoate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate, cetyl stearate, cetyl 
myristate, coco-dicaprylate/caprate, decyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, 
isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl neopentanoate, octyl palmitate, dioctyl 
malate, tridecyl octanoate, myristyl myristate, octododecanol, as well as 
the esters disclosed on pages 24-26 of the C.T.F.A. Cosmetic Ingredient 
Handbook, First Edition, 1988, which is hereby incorporated by reference. 
The oil may also comprise naturally occuring glyceryl esters of fatty 
acids, or triglycerides. Both vegetable and animal sources may be used. 
Examples of such oils include castor oil, lanolin oil, triisocetyl 
citrate, C.sub.10-18 triglycerides, caprylic/capric/triglycerides, coconut 
oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, linseed oil, mink oil, olive oil, palm oil, 
illipe butter, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, walnut oil, 
and the like. 
Also suitable as the oil are synthetic or semi-synthetic glyceryl esters, 
e.g. fatty acid mono-, di-, and triglycerides which are natural fats or 
oils that have been modified, for example, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl 
dioleate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl distearate, 
glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl isostearate, PEG castor 
oils, PEG glyceryl oleates, PEG glyceryl stearates, PEG glyceryl 
tallowates, and so on. 
Also suitable as the oil are nonvolatile hydrocarbons such as isoparaffins, 
mineral oil, and so on. 
Nonvolatile silicones, both water soluble and water insoluble, are also 
suitable as the oil component. Such silicones preferably have a viscosity 
of 10 to 600,000 centistokes, preferably 20 to 100,000 centistokes at 
25.degree. C. Suitable water insoluble silicones include amodimethicone, 
bisphenylhexarnethicone, dimethicone, hexadecyl methicone, methicone, 
phenyl trimethicone, simethicone, dimethylhydrogensiloxane, 
vinyldimethicone, and mixtures thereof. Also suitable are water soluble 
silicones such as dimethicone copolyol, dimethiconol, and the like. Such 
silicones are available from Dow Corning as the 3225C formulation aid, Dow 
190 and 193 fluids, or similar products marketed by Goldschmidt under the 
ABIL tradename. 
Also suitable as the nonvolatile oil are various fluorinated oils such as 
fluorinated silicones, fluorinated esters, or perfluropolyethers. 
Particularly suitable are fluorosilicones such as trimethylsilyl endcapped 
fluorosilicone oil, polytrifluoropropylmethylsiloxanes, and similar 
silicones such as those disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,118,496 which is 
hereby incorporated by reference. Perfluoropolyethers like those disclosed 
in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,183,589, 4,803,067, 5,183,588 all of which are hereby 
incorporated by reference, which are commercially available from 
Montefluos under the trademark Fomblin, are also suitable shine enhancers. 
Guerbet esters are also suitable oils. The term "guerbet ester" means an 
ester which is formed by the reaction of a guerbet alcohol having the 
general formula: 
##STR6## 
with a carboxylic acid having the general formula: 
EQU R.sup.3 COOH, or 
EQU HOOC--R.sup.3 --COOH 
wherein R.sup.1 and R.sup.2 are each independently a C.sub.4-20 alkyl and 
R.sup.3 is a substituted or unsubstituted fatty radical such as a 
C.sub.1-50 straight or branched chain saturated or unsaturated alkyl or 
alkylene, or phenyl, wherein the substituents are halogen, hydroxyl, 
carboxyl, and alkylcarbonylhydroxy. Particularly preferred is a carboxylic 
acid wherein the R group is such to provide an ingredient known as 
meadowfoam seed oil. 
Preferably, the guerbet ester is a fluoro-guerbet ester which is formed by 
the reaction of a guerbet alcohol and carboxylic acid (as defined above), 
and a fluoroalcohol having the following general formula: 
EQU CF.sub.3 --(CF.sub.2).sub.n --CH.sub.2 --CH.sub.2 --OH 
wherein n is from 3 to 40. 
Examples of suitable fluoro guerbet esters are set forth in U.S. Pat. No. 
5,488,121which is hereby incorporated by reference. Suitable 
fluoro-guerbet esters are also set forth in U.S. Pat. No. 5,312,968 which 
is hereby incorporated by reference. Most preferred is a guerbet ester 
having the tentative CTFA name fluoro-octyldodecyl meadowfoarnate. This 
ester is sold by Siltech, Norcross Ga. as Developmental Ester L61125A, 
under the tradename Silube GME-F. 
Preferably, the compositions of the invention contain one or more 
nonvolatile oils, preferably water insoluble nonvolatile silicones such as 
dimethicone. 
IV. Surfactants 
Surfactants are particularly desireable to wet the pigments and assist in 
stabilizing the emulsion compositions. Generally, if surfactants are 
present, a range of 0.001-20%, preferably 0.01-10%, more preferably 
0.05-8% by weight of the total composition is suggested. Suitable 
surfactants may be organic, or silicone-based, and include nonionic, 
amphoteric, zwitterionic, and cationic surfactants. 
A. Silicone Surfactants 
Silicone surfactants, or emulsifiers, may be used in the compositions of 
the invention. They may be liquid or solid at room temperature. The 
surfactant is generally a water-in-oil or oil-in-water type surfactant 
which is preferably nonionic, having an Hydrophile/Lipophile Balance (HLB) 
of 2 to 18. Preferably the silicone surfactant is nonionic and has an HLB 
of 2 to 12, preferably 2 to 10, most preferably 4 to 6. The HLB of a 
nonionic surfactant is the balance between the hydrophilic and lipophilic 
portions of the surfactant and is calculated according to the following 
formula: 
EQU HLB=7+11.7.times.log M.sub.w /M.sub.o 
where M.sub.w is the molecular weight of the hydrophilic group portion and 
M.sub.o is the molecular weight of the lipophilic group portion. 
The surfactant is an organosiloxane polymer. The term "organosiloxane 
polymer" means a polymer containing a polymeric backbone including 
repeating siloxy units that may have cylic, linear or branched repeating 
units, e.g. di(lower)alkylsiloxy units, preferably dimethylsiloxy units. 
The hydrophilic portion of the organosiloxane is generally achieved by 
substitution onto the polymeric backbone of a radical that confers 
hydrophilic properties to a portion of the molecule. The hydrophilic 
radical may be substituted on a terminus of the polymeric organosiloxane, 
or on any one or more repeating units of the polymer. In general, the 
repeating dimethylsiloxy units of modified polydimethylsiloxane 
emulsifiers are lipophilic in nature due to the methyl groups, and confer 
lipophilicity to the molecule. In addition, longer chain alkyl radicals, 
hydroxy-polypropyleneoxy radicals, or other types of lipophilic radicals 
may be substituted onto the siloxy backbone to confer further 
lipophilicity and organocompatibility. If the lipophilic portion of the 
molecule is due in whole or part to a specific radical, this lipophilic 
radical may be substituted on a terminus of the organosilicone polymer, or 
on any one or more repeating units of the polymer. It should also be 
understood that the organosiloxane polymer in accordance with the 
invention should have at least one hydrophilic portion and one lipophilic 
portion. 
The term "hydrophilic radical" means a radical that, when substituted onto 
the organosiloxane polymer backbone, confers hydrophilic properties to the 
substituted portion of the polymer. Examples of radicals that will confer 
hydrophilicity are hydroxy-polyethyleneoxy, hydroxyl, carboxylates, 
sulfonates, sulfates, phosphates, or amines. 
The term "lipophilic radical" means an organic radical that, when 
substituted onto the organosiloxane polymer backbone, confers lipophilic 
properties to the substituted portion of the polymer. Examples of organic 
radicals which will conver lipophilicity are C.sub.1-40 straight or 
branched chain alkyl, fluoro, aryl, aryloxy, C.sub.1-40 hydrocarbyl acyl, 
hydroxy-polypropyleneoxy, or mixtures thereof. The C.sub.1-40 alkyl may be 
non-interrupted, or interruped by one or more oxygen atoms, a benzene 
ring, amides, esters, or other functional groups. 
The polymeric organosiloxane emulsifier used in the invention may have any 
of the following general formulas: 
EQU M.sub.x Q.sub.y, or 
EQU M.sub.x T.sub.y, or 
EQU MD.sub.x D'.sub.y D".sub.z M 
wherein each M is independently a substituted or unsubstituted 
trimethylsiloxy endcap unit. If substituted, one or more of the hydrogens 
on the endcap methyl groups are substituted, or one or more methyl groups 
are substituted with a substituent that is a lipophilic radical, a 
hydrophilic radical, or mixtures thereof. T is a trifunctional siloxy unit 
having the empirical formula RR'SiO.sub.1.5 or RRSiO.sub.1.5. Q is a 
quadrifunctional siloxy unit having the empirical formula SiO.sub.2, and 
D, D', D", x, y, and z are as set forth below, with the proviso that the 
compound contains at least one hydrophilic radical and at least one 
lipophilic radical. Examples of emulsifiers used in the compositions of 
the invention are of the general formula: 
EQU MD.sub.x D'.sub.y D".sub.z M 
wherein the trimethylsiloxy endcap unit is unsubstituted or 
mono-substituted, wherein one methyl group is substituted with a 
lipophilic radical or a hydrophilic radical. Examples of such substituted 
trimethylsiloxy endcap units include (CH.sub.3).sub.2 HPSiO, 
(CH.sub.3).sub.2 LPSiO, (CH.sub.3).sub.2 CH.sub.2 HPSiO, (CH.sub.3).sub.2 
CH.sub.2 LPSiO, wherein HP is a hydrophilic radical and LP is a lipophilic 
radical. D, D', and D" are difunctional siloxy units substituted with 
methyl, hydrogen, a lipophilic radical, a hydrophilic radical or mixtures 
thereof. In this general formula: 
x=0-5000, preferably 1-1000 
y=0-5000, preferably 1-1000, and 
z=0-5000, preferably 0-1000, 
with the proviso that the compound contains at least one lipophilic radical 
and at least one hydrophilic radical. Examples of these polymers are 
disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,698,178, which is hereby incorporated by 
reference. 
Particularly useful are linear silicones having the general formula: 
EQU MD.sub.x D'.sub.y D".sub.z M 
wherein M=RRRSiO.sub.1/2 
D and D'=RR'SiO.sub.2/2 
D"=RRSiO.sub.2/2 
x, y, and z are each independently 0-1000, 
where R is methyl or hydrogen, and R' is a hydrophilic radical or a 
lipophilic radical, with the proviso that the compound contains at least 
one hydrophilic radical and at least one lipophilic radical. 
Most preferred is wherein 
M=trimethylsiloxy 
D Si[(CH.sub.3)][(CH.sub.2).sub.n CH.sub.3 ]O.sub.2/2 where n=1-40, 
D'=Si [(CH.sub.3)][(CH.sub.2).sub.o --O--PE)]O.sub.2/2 where PE is 
(--C.sub.2 H.sub.4 O).sub.a (--C.sub.3 H.sub.6 O).sub.b H, o=0-40, 
a=1-100 and b=1-100, and 
D"=Si (CH.sub.3).sub.2 O.sub.2/2 
Typical examples of preferred organosiloxane emulsifiers in accordance with 
the invention include those set forth below: 
##STR7## 
wherein LP is a lipophilic radical HP is a hydrophilic radical 
x is 0-5000 
y is 0-5000, and 
z is 0-5000, with the proviso that the organosiloxane contains at least on 
hydrophilic radical and at least one lipophilic radical. 
More preferred are compounds of the generic formula I wherein LP is a 
lipophilic radical which is a C.sub.1-40 straight or branched chain alkyl, 
HP is a hydrophilic radical containing hydroxy-polyethyleneoxy, and z is 
at least 1. Most preferred is a compound of the formula: 
##STR8## 
wherein p is 10-40, preferably 12-20, most preferably 15, and PE is 
(--C.sub.2 H.sub.4 O).sub.a (--C.sub.3 H.sub.6 O).sub.b --H 
where x, y, z, a, and b are such that the maximum molecular weight of the 
polymer is approximately 50,000. Organosiloxane polymers useful in the 
compositions of the invention are commercially available from Goldschmidt 
Corporation under the ABIL tradename. The preferred polymer is cetyl 
dimethicone copolyol and has the tradename ABIL WE 09 or ABIL WS 08. The 
cetyl dimethicone copolyol may be used alone or in conjunction with other 
non-silicone organic emulsifiers, for example, blends of 25-50% of the 
organosiloxane emulsifier, 25-50% of a non-silicone organic emulsifier, 
and 25-50% by weight emollients or oils are suitable. Materials are 
identified by the C.T.F.A. names cetyl dimethicone copolyol (and) 
polyglyceryl 4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate, or cetyl dimethicone 
copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-3 oleate (and) hexyl laurate both work well. 
These blends contain approximately 25-50% of each ingredient, for example 
ABIL WE 09 contains approximately, by weight of the total ABIL 
composition, 25-50% cetyl dimethicone copolyol, 25-50%, polyglyceryl 
4-isostearate, and 25-50% of hexyl laurate which is an emollient or oil. 
Another type of preferred organosiloxane emulsifier suitable for use in the 
compositions of the invention are emulsifiers sold by Union Carbide under 
the Silwet.TM. trademark. These emulsifiers are represented by the 
following generic formulas: 
EQU (Me.sub.3 Si).sub.y-2 [(OSiMe.sub.2).sub.x/y O--PE].sub.y 
wherein PE=--(EO).sub.m (PO).sub.n R 
R=lower alkyl or hydrogen 
Me=methyl 
EO is polyethyleneoxy 
PO is polypropyleneoxy 
m and n are each independently 1-5000 
x and y are each independently 0-5000, and 
##STR9## 
wherein PE=--CH.sub.2 CH.sub.2 CH.sub.2 O(EO).sub.m (PO).sub.n Z Z=lower 
alkyl or hydrogen, and 
Me, m, n, x, y, EO and PO are as described above, with the proviso that the 
molecule contains a lipophilic portion and a hydrophilic portion. Again, 
the lipophilic portion can be supplied by a sufficient number of methyl 
groups on the polymer backbone. 
Particularly preferred is a Silwet.TM. polymer of the following general 
formula: 
##STR10## 
Wherein n is 1-10, preferably 8. 
Another preferred organosiloxane emulsifier for use in the compositions of 
the invention is dimethicone copolyol. 
Examples of other polymeric organosiloxane surfactants or emulsifiers 
include amino/polyoxyalkyleneated polydiorganosiloxanes disclosed in U.S. 
Pat. No. 5,147,578. Also suitable are organosiloxanes sold by Goldschmidt 
under the ABIL trademark including ABIL B-9806, as well as those sold by 
Rhone-Poulenc under the Alkasil tradename. Also, organosiloxane 
emulsifiers sold by Amerchol under the Amersil tradename, including 
Amersil ME-358, Amersil DMC-287 and Amersil DMC-357 are suitable. Dow 
Coming surfactants such as Dow Coming 3225C Formulation Aid, Dow Coming 
190 Surfactant, Dow Coming 193 Surfactant, Dow Coming Q2-5200, and the 
like are also suitable. In addition, surfactants sold under the tradename 
Silwet by Union Carbide, and surfactants sold by Troy Corporation under 
the Troysol tradename, those sold by Taiwan Surfactant Co. under the 
tradename Ablusoft, those sold by Hoechst under the tradename Arkophob, 
are also suitable for use in the invention. 
B. Organic Surfactants 
Organic surfactants are also suitable for use in the invention, in 
particular nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, or anionic surfactants. 
Particularly preferred are nonionic organic surfactants having an HLB of 2 
to 16, preferably 4-12. 
(1) Nonionic Organic Surfactants 
A wide variety of nonionic organic surfactants are suitable. Nonionic 
surfactants are generally compounds produced by the condensation of 
alkylene oxide groups with a hydrophobic compound. Classes of nonionic 
surfactants are: 
(a) Long chain dialkyl sulfoxides containing one short chain alkyl or 
hydroxy alkyl radical of from about 1 to 3 carbon atoms and one long 
hydrophobic chain which may be an alkyl, alkenyl, hydroxyalkyl, or 
ketoalkyl radical containing from about 8 to 20 carbon atoms, from 0 to 10 
ethylene oxide moieties, and 0 or 1 glyceryl moiety. 
(b) Polysorbates, such as sucrose esters of fatty acids. Examples of such 
materials include sucrose cocoate, sucrose behenate, and so on. 
(c) Polyethylene oxide condensates of alkyl phenols, for example the 
condensation products of alkyl phenols having an alkyl group of 6 to 20 
carbon atoms with ethylene oxide being present in amounts of about 10 to 
60 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alkyl phenol. 
(d) Condensation products of ethylene oxide with the reaction product of 
propylene oxide and ethylene diamine. 
(e) Condensation products of aliphatic alcohols having 8 to 18 carbon atoms 
with ethylene oxide, for example a coconut alcohol/ethylene oxide 
condensate having 10 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of coconut 
alcohol, the coconut alcohol fraction having 10 to 14 carbon atoms. 
(f) Long chain tertiary amine oxides such as those corresponding to the 
general formula: 
EQU R.sub.1 R.sub.2 R.sub.3 NO 
wherein R.sub.1 contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxyalkyl radical 
ranging from about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in length, from 0 to about 10 
ethylene oxide moieties, and from 0 to about 1 glyceryl moiety and R.sub.2 
and R.sub.3 are each alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl groups containing from 
about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms. 
(g) Long chain tertiary phosphine oxides corresponding to the general 
formula: 
EQU RR.sub.1 R.sub.2 PO 
wherein R contains an alkyl, alkenyl, or monohydroxyalkyl radical having 8 
to 18 carbon atoms, from 0-10 ethylene oxide moieties and 0 or 1 glyceryl 
moiety, and R.sub.2 and R.sub.3 are each alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl group 
containing from about 1 to 3 carbon atoms. 
(h) Alkyl polysaccharides having a hydrophobic group of 6 to 30, preferably 
10, carbon atoms and a polysaccharide group such as glucose, galactose, 
etc. Suitable alkyl polysaccharides are octyl, nonydecyl, undecyldodecyl, 
tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, and octadecyl, 
di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, and hexaglucosides, galactosides, lactosides, 
glucoses, fructosides, fructoses, and so on. 
(i) Polyethylene glycol (PEG) glyceryl fatty esters, having the formula 
EQU RC(O)OCH.sub.2 CH(OH)CH.sub.2 (OCH.sub.2 CH.sub.2).sub.n OH 
wherein n is 5-200 and RC(O)-- is a hydrocarbylcarbonyl group wherein R is 
preferably an aliphatic radical having 7 to 19 carbon atoms. Particularly 
preferred are polyethylene glycol ethers of sugar mono- and diesters, i.e. 
which are obtained by reaction of sugars with fatty acids. Examples are 
PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquiisostearate, PEG-20 methyl glycose 
sesquilaurate, and mixtures thereof. 
(j) Other nonionic surfactants that may be used include C.sub.10-18 
alkyl(C.sub.1-6)polyhydroxy fatty acid amides such as C.sub.12-18 
methylglucamides, N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, N-propyl through 
N-hexyl C.sub.12-18 glucamides and so on. 
Particularly preferred for use in the compositions of the invention are 
alkoxylated fatty esters of sugar or derviatives of sugar, in particular 
PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquiisostearate. 
(2) Amphoteric Organic Surfactants 
Amphoteric surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the 
invention are generally described as derivatives of aliphatic secondary or 
tertiary amines wherein one aliphatic radical is a straight or branched 
chain alkyl of 8 to 18 carbon atoms and the other aliphatic radical 
contains an anionic group such as carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, 
or phosphonate. 
Suitable amphoteric surfactants may be imidazolinium compounds having the 
general formula: 
##STR11## 
wherein R.sup.1 is C.sub.8-22 alkyl or alkenyl, preferably C.sub.12-16 ; 
R.sup.2 is hydrogen or CH.sub.2 CO.sub.2 M, R.sup.3 is CH.sub.2 CH.sub.2 
OH or CH.sub.2 CH.sub.2 OCH.sub.2 CHCOOM; R.sup.4 is hydrogen, CH.sub.2 
CH.sub.2 OH, or CH.sub.2 CH.sub.2 OCH.sub.2 CH.sub.2 COOM, Z is CO.sub.2 M 
or CH.sub.2 CO.sub.2 M, n is 2 or 3, preferably 2, M is hydrogen or a 
cation such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, or alkanol 
ammonium. cation. Examples of such materials are marketed under the 
tradename MIRANOL, by Miranol, Inc. 
Also suitable amphoteric surfactants are monocarboxylates or dicarboxylates 
such as cocamphocarboxypropionate, cocoamphocarboxypropionic acid, 
cocamphocarboxyglycinate, and cocoamphoacetate. 
Other types of amphoteric surfactants include aminoalkanoates of the formul 
a 
EQU R--NH(CH.sub.2).sub.n COOM 
or iminodialkanoates of the formula: 
EQU R--N[(CH.sub.2).sub.m COOM].sub.2 
and mixtures thereof; wherein n and m are 1 to 4, R is C.sub.8-22 alkyl or 
alkenyl, and M is hydrogen, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium 
or alkanolammonium. Examples of such amphoteric surfactants include 
n-alkylaminopropionates and n-alkyliminodipropionates, which are sold 
under the trade name MIRATAINE by Miranol, Inc. or DERIPHAT by Henkel, for 
example N-lauryl-beta-amino propionic acid, 
N-lauryl-beta-imino-dipropionic acid, or mixtures thereof. 
(3) Zwitterionic Organic Surfactants 
Zwitterionic surfactants are also suitable for use in the compositions of 
the invention. 
The general formula for such surfactants is: 
##STR12## 
wherein R.sub.2 contains an alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxy alkyl radical of 
from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide 
moieties and 0 or 1 glyceryl moiety; Y is selected from the group 
consisting of nitrogen, phosphorus, and sulfur atoms; R.sub.3 is an alkyl 
or monohydroxyalkyl group containing about 1 to 3 carbon atoms; X is 1 
when Y is a sulfur atom, and 2 when Y is a nitrogen or phosphorus atom; 
R.sub.4 is an alkylene or hydroxyalkylene of from about 1 to about 4 
carbon atoms, and Z is a radical selected from the group consisting of 
carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphonate, and phosphate groups. 
Zwitterionics include betaines, for example higher alkyl betaines such as 
coco dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl carboxymethyl 
betaine, lauryl dimethyl alphacarboxyethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl 
carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)carboxymethyl betaine, 
stearyl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl)carboxymethyl betaine, oleyl dimethyl 
gamma-carboxylethyl betaine, and mixtures thereof. Also suitable are 
sulfo- and amido- betaines such as coco dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, 
stearyl dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, and the like. 
(4) Anionic Surfactants 
Anionic surfactants include alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates generally having 
the formula ROSO.sub.3 M and RO(C.sub.2 H.sub.4 O)SO.sub.3 M wherein R is 
alkyl or alkenyl of from about 10 to 20 carbon atoms, x is 1 to about 10 
and M is a water soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium, or 
triethanolamine cation. 
Another type of anionic surfactant which may be used in the compositions of 
the invention are water soluble salts of organic, sulfuric acid reaction 
products of the general formula: 
EQU R.sub.1 --SO.sub.3 --M 
wherein R.sub.1 is chosen from the group consisting of a straight or 
branched chain, saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having from about 
8 to about 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to about 18 carbon atoms; and M 
is a cation. Examples of such anionic surfactants are salts of organic 
sulfuric acid reaction products of hydrocarbons such as n-paraffins having 
8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a sulfonating agent, such as sulfur trioxide. 
Also suitable as anionic surfactants are reaction products of fatty acids 
esterified with isethionic acid and neutralized with sodium hydroxide. The 
fatty acids may be derived from coconut oil, for example. 
In addition, succinates and succinimates are suitable anionic surfactants. 
This class includes compounds such as disodium N-octadecylsulfosuccinate; 
tetrasodium N-(1,2-dicarboxyethyl)-N-octadecylsulfosuccinate; and esters 
of sodium sulfosuccinic acid e.g. the dihexyl ester of sodium 
sulfosuccinic acid, the dioctyl ester of sodium sulfosuccinic acid, and 
the like. 
Other suitable anionic surfactants include olefin sulfonates having about 
12 to 24 carbon atoms. The term "olefin sulfonate" means a compound that 
can be produced by sulfonation of an alpha olefin by means of uncomplexed 
sulfur trioxide, followed by neutralization of the acid reaction mixture 
in conditions such that any sultones which have been formed in the 
reaction are hydrolyzed to give the corresponding 
hydroxy-alkanesulfonates. The alpha-olefin from which the olefin sulfonate 
is derived is a mono-olefin having about 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 
about 14 to 16 carbon atoms. 
Other classes of suitable anionic organic surfactants are the beta-alkoxy 
alkane sulfonates or water soluble soaps thereof such as the salts of 
C.sub.10-20 fatty acids, for example coconut and tallow based soaps. 
Preferred salts are ammonium, potassium, and sodium salts. 
Still another class of anionic surfactants include N-acyl amino acid 
surfactants and salts thereof (alkali, alkaline earth, and ammonium salts) 
having the formula: 
##STR13## 
wherein R.sub.1 is a C.sub.8-24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, preferably 
C.sub.10-18 ; R.sub.2 is H, C.sub.1-4 alkyl, phenyl, or--CH.sub.2 COOM; 
R.sub.3 is CX.sub.2 - or C.sub.1-2 alkoxy, wherein each X independently is 
H or a C.sub.1-6 alkyl or alkylester, n is from 1 to 4, and M is H or a 
salt forming cation as described above. Examples of such surfactants are 
the N-acyl sarcosinates, including lauroyl sarcosinate, myristoyl 
sarcosinate, cocoyl sarcosinate, and oleoyl sarcosinate, preferably in 
sodium or potassium forms. 
(5) Cationic Surfactants 
It is also possible to include cationic surfactants in the composition of 
the invention provided they are compatible with the other ingredients in 
the composition. Cationic quaternary amines or ammonium compounds may be 
used, as well as cationic silicones such as amodimethicone. 
V. Particulate Matter 
The composition of the invention may contain 0.1-50%, preferably 0.5-40%, 
more preferably 1-25% by weight of the total composition, of particulate 
matter having a particle size of 0.02 to 100, preferably 0.5 to 100, 
microns. The particulate matter may be colored or non-colored (for example 
white). Suitable particulates include bismuth oxychloride, titanated mica, 
a fumed silica, spherical silica, polymethylmethacrylate, polyethylene, 
polypropylene, micronized teflon, boron nitride, acrylate copolymers, 
aluminum silicate, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, bentonite, calcium 
silicate, cellulose, chalk, corn starch, diatomaceous earth, fuller's 
earth, glyceryl starch, hectorite, hydrated silica, kaolin, magnesium 
aluminum silicate, magnesium trisilicate, maltodextrin, montmorillonite, 
microcrystalline cellulose, rice starch, silica, talc, mica, titanium 
dioxide, zinc laurate, zinc myristate, zinc rosinate, alumina, 
attapulgite, calcium carbonate, calcium silicate, dextran, kaolin, nylon, 
silica silylate, silk powder, sericite, soy flour, tin oxide, titanium 
hydroxide, trimagnesium phosphate, walnut shell powder, or mixtures 
thereof. The above mentioned powders may be surface treated with lecithin, 
amino acids, mineral oil, silicone oil or various other agents either 
alone or in combination, which coat the powder surface and render the 
particles more lipophilic in nature. 
The particulates may also include various organic and inorganic pigments. 
The organic pigments are generally various aromatic types including azo, 
indigoid, triphenylmethane, anthraquinone, and xanthine dyes which are 
designated as D&C and FD&C blues, browns, greens, oranges, reds, yellows, 
etc. Organic pigments generally consist of insoluble metallic salts of 
certified color additives, referred to as the Lakes, in particular the 
Lakes of D&C and FD&C colors. Inorganic pigments include iron oxides, 
ultramarines, chromium, chromium hydroxide colors, and mixtures thereof. 
Preferably the composition will contain both pigmented and non-pigmented 
particulates. Obviously the percentage of pigments used in the particulate 
phase will depend on the type of cosmetic being formulated. Color 
cosmetics generally have a much higher concentration of color than other 
types of cosmetics. Generally the weight ratio of pigmented to 
non-pigmented particulates range from 1:50 to 50:1. It should be noted 
that particulates that are white or have no color are considered 
non-pigmented particulates in accordance with the invention, while 
particulates which exhibit color other than white are considered pigmented 
particulates in accordance with the invention. 
It may be desired that the particulates be surface coated or surface 
treated with materials which provide hydrophobicity to the particle 
surface. Examples of such coatings include silicones, lecithin, 
perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether, fluorinated silicones, lecithin, and 
the like. Particularly preferred are silicone treated pigments as 
disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,143,722, as well as pigments which are coated 
with perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether. 
The compositions contain 5-95%, preferably 10-90%, more preferably 15-80% 
water. While the cosmetic sticks of the invention may be found in the 
water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion form, preferably they are in the 
form of oil-in-water emulsions. Accordingly, they provide a very light 
fresh feel when applied to skin or lips. 
VI. Other Ingredients 
A variety of other ingredients may be added to the compositions to improve 
their aesthetic and treatment properties. For example, vitamins, 
humectants, preservatives, antioxidants, and so on, are desireable. 
(A) Sunscreens 
The compositions of the invention may contain 0.001-20%, preferably 
0.01-10%, more preferably 0.05-8% of one or more sunscreens. A sunscreen 
is defined as an ingredient that absorbs at least 85 percent of the light 
in the UV range at wavelengths from 290 to 320 nanometers, but transmit UV 
light at wavelengths longer than 320 nanometers. Sunscreens generally work 
in one of two ways. Particulate materials, such as zinc oxide or titanium 
dioxide, as mentioned above, physically block ultraviolet radiation. 
Chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, operate by chemically reacting 
upon exposure to UV radiation. Suitable sunscreens that may be included in 
the compositions of the invention are set forth on page 582 of the CTFA 
Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992, as well as U.S. Pat. 
No. 5,620,965, both of which are hereby incorporated by reference. 
Examples of such sunscreen materials are p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), 
cinoxate, diethanolamine p-methoxycinnamate (DEA-methoxycinnamate), 
Digalloyl trioleate, dioxybenzone (Benzophenone-8), ethyl 
4-[bis-(hydroxypropyl)] amnobenzoate (ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA), 
2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), ethylhexyl 
p-methoxycinnamate (Octyl methoxycinnamate), 2-ethylhexyl salicylate 
(Octyl salicylate), glyceryl aminobenzoate (Glyceryl PABA), homosalate, 
lawsone with dihydroxyacetone, menthyl anthranilate, oxybenzone 
(Benzophenone-3), Padimate A (Pentyl Dimethyl PABA), Padimate 0, (Octyl 
Dimethyl PABA), 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (Phenylbenzimidazole 
Sulfonic acid), Red Petrolatum, Sulisobenzone (Benzophenone-4), 
triethanolamine salicylate (TEA-Salicylates), and so on. 
(B). Preservatives 
The composition may contain 0.0001-8%, preferably 0.001-6%, more preferably 
0.005-5% by weight of the total composition of preservatives. A variety of 
preservatives are suitable, including such as benzoic acid, benzyl 
alcohol, benzylhemiformal, benzylparaben, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, 
2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, butyl paraben, calcium benzoate, calcium 
propionate, captan, chlorhexidine diacetate, chlorhexidine digluconate, 
chlorhexidine dihydrochloride, chloroacetamide, chlorobutanol, 
p-chloro-m-cresol, chlorophene, chlorothymol, chloroxylenol, m-cresol, 
o-cresol, DEDM Hydantoin, DEDM Hydantoin dilaurate, dehydroacetic acid, 
diazolidinyl urea, dibromopropamidine diisethionate, DMDM Hydantoin, and 
all of those disclosed on pages 570 to 571 of the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient 
Handbook, Second Edition, 1992, which is hereby incorporated by reference. 
(C). Vitamins and Antioxidants 
The compositions of the invention may contain vitamins and/or coenzymes, as 
well as antioxidants. If so, 0.001-10%, preferably 0.01-8%, more 
preferably 0.05-5% by weight of the total composition are suggested. 
Suitable vitamins include the B vitamins such as thiamine, riboflavin, 
pyridoxin, and so on, as well as coenzymes such as thiamine pyrophoshate, 
flavin adenin dinucleotide, folic acid, pyridoxal phosphate, 
tetrahydrofolic acid, and so on. Also Vitamin A and derivatives thereof 
are suitable. Examples are Vitamin A palmitate, acetate, or other esters 
thereof, as well as Vitamin A in the form of beta carotene. Also suitable 
is Vitamin E and derivatives thereof such as Vitamin E acetate, 
nicotinate, or other esters thereof. In addition, Vitamins D and K are 
suitable. 
Suitable antioxidants are ingredients which assist in preventing or 
retarding spoilage. Examples of antioxidants suitable for use in the 
compositions of the invention are potassium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, 
sodium erythrobate, sodium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, propyl gallate, 
cysteine hydrochloride, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated 
hydroxyanisole, and so on. 
(D). Alpha or beta hydroxy acids, alpha keto acids 
It may be desired to add one or more alpha or beta hydroxy acids or alpha 
ketoacids to the compositions of the invention. Suggested ranges are 
0.01-20%, preferably 0. 1-15%, more preferably 0.5-10% by weight of the 
total composition. Suitable alpha hydroxy acids and alpha ketoacids are 
disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,091,171, which is hereby incorporated by 
reference. Such alpha hydroxy acids are as follows: 
a) Organic carboxylic acids where one hydroxyl group is attached to the 
alpha carbon atom of the acid. The general structure of such alpha hydroxy 
acids may be represented by the following formula: 
EQU (Ra)(Rb)C(OH)COOH 
wherein Ra and Rb are H, F, Cl, Br, alkyl, aralkyl, or aryl group of 
saturated, unsaturated, straight or branched chain or cyclic form having 
1-10 carbon atoms, and in addition Ra or Rb may carry OH, CHO, COOH and 
alkoxy groups having 1 to 9 carbon atoms. 
The second group of alpha hydroxy acids may be represented by the following 
formula: 
EQU (Ra)CO COO(Rb) 
wherein Ra and Rb are H, alkyl, aralkyl, or aryl groups of straight or 
branched chain saturated or unsaturated alkyl having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, 
and in addition Ra may carry F, Cl, Br, I, OH, CHO, COOH, and alkoxy 
groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. 
The alpha hydroxy acids may exist in the keto acid form, or the ester form. 
Examples of such alpha hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, malic acid, 
pyruvic acid, mandelic acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, and so on. 
Also beta hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid, and derivatives thereof may 
be included in the compositions of the invention.