Turmeric as an anti-irritant in compositions containing hydroxy acids or retinoids

Compositions containing hydroxy acids and/or retinoids and further containing turmeric extract as an anti-irritant/anti-sting agent.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION
 The present invention relates to the use of turmeric in a composition and a
 method for reducing or eliminating skin irritation or sting induced by
 hydroxy acids or retinoids.
 BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
 Hydroxy acids (HAs) and retinoids have been proven to deliver cosmetic
 benefits, such as improvement in the appearance of photodamaged or
 naturally aged skin, skin lightening, treatment of age spots, etc.
 Unfortunately, their use at high concentrations may occasionally be
 associated with skin irritation, e.g., skin redness and stinging sensation
 upon application. The irritation can be ameliorated by lowering the amount
 of an active ingredient in the composition or by reducing the active's
 penetration through the skin. A serious drawback of both approaches is
 that the efficacy is impaired. The HA related irritation can be reduced by
 raising the composition's pH but this method yields reduced efficacy due
 to a decreased HA penetration through the skin. It is desirable to reduce
 or eliminate the irritation potential of HAs and/or retinoids while
 maintaining their efficacy.
 Turmeric is a powdered rhizome of the plant Curcuma longa Linn. The
 biological activities of turmeric have generally been attributed to
 curcumin, a component of turmeric extract. Curcumin has been reported to
 have anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant activity. See Huang et al.,
 "Inhibitory Effects of Curcumin on Tumorigenesis in Mice", Journal of
 Cellular Biochemistry Supplement 27:26-34 (1997), Mukundan et al., "Effect
 of turmeric and curcumin on BP-DNA adducts", Carciogenesis, Vol. 14, No.
 3, pp. 493-496 (1993) and Huang et al., "Inhibitory Effects of Curcumin on
 in Vitro Lipoxygenase and Cyclooxygenase Activities in Mouse Epidermis",
 Cancer Research 51, 813-819 (1991).
 U.S. Pat. No. 5,053,222 (Takasu et al.) discloses a hair cosmetic
 composition for dandruff treatment which may contain a variety of optional
 ingredients, including certain alpha-hydroxy acids, vitamin A, and
 turmeric. U.S. Pat. No. 5,152,983 (Nambudiry et al.) discloses sunscreen
 compositions comprising a 1,3-diketone, which may be curcumin. The
 1,3-diketone is present in the Nambudiry composition at 0.01 to 15%. By
 contrast, the curcumin content in the compositions of the present
 invention, even if up to 20% of turmeric extract is used, is at most
 0.0002%, i.e., orders of magnitude below the minimum amount in the
 Nambudiry patent. If turmeric extract were used at levels sufficient to
 provide curcumin amount of Nambudiry patent, unacceptable yellow color
 would result.
 The art discussed above does not teach any compositions containing turmeric
 extract at a level presently claimed in combination with HAs and/or
 retinoids. The art does not appear to teach the use of turmeric extract or
 curcumin to reduce irritation or sting associated with the use of HAs
 and/or retinoids. Even more importantly, the art does not disclose the
 criticality of employing turmeric extract rather than curcumin, to reduce
 skin irritation. On the contrary, the literature appears to equate the
 activities of turmeric extract and curcumin.
 SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
 The present invention includes, in part, a composition containing a
 cosmetic benefit ingredient selected from the group consisting of hydroxy
 acids ("HAs") and certain retinoids and further containing turmeric
 extract.
 The invention also includes a method for reducing irritation or sting
 induced by the topical application of a composition containing HAs or
 retinoids, the method comprising topically applying turmeric extract.
 According to the inventive method, turmeric extract may be co-present with
 HAs and/or retinoids in the same composition, or turmeric extract may be
 applied from a separate composition.
 According to the present invention, by virtue of topical application of
 turmeric extract, the irritation or sting induced by the topical
 application of HAs and/or retinoids is reduced or eliminated. It has been
 found as part of the present invention that not all known anti-irritants,
 ameliorate HA/retinoid induced irritation.
 DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
 Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise
 explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts
 of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials
 and/or use are to be understood as modified by the word "about." All
 amounts are by weight of the composition unless otherwise specified.
 Turmeric extract is an essential ingredient of the inventive compositions
 and is employed according to the present invention to reduce or eliminate
 the skin irritation induced by hydroxy acids and/or retinoids.
 The amount of turmeric extract in the inventive compositions ranges
 generally from 0.01 to 20% by weight of the composition, preferably from
 0.1% to 10%, most preferably from 1% to 5%.
 Hydroxyacids enhance proliferation and increase ceramide biosynthesis in
 keratinocytes, increase epidermal thickness, and increase desquamation of
 normal skin resulting in smoother, younger looking skin.
 The hydroxy acid can be chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxyacids
 (e.g., salicylic acid), other hydroxycarboxylic acids (e.g.,
 dihydroxycarboxylic acid, hydroxy-dicarboxylic, hydroxytricarboxylic) and
 mixtures thereof or combination of their stereoisomers (DL, D or L).
 Preferably the hydroxy acid is chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids having the
 general structure (1):
 ##STR1##
 where M is hydrogen or a saturated or an unsaturated, straight or branched
 hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 27 carbon atoms.
 Even more preferably the hydroxy acid is chosen from lactic acid,
 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, hydroxylauric acid, glycolic acid, and mixtures
 thereof. When stereo isomers exist, L-isomer is most preferred.
 It is to be understood that depending on the pH of the composition, the
 hydroxy acid may be present as a salt, e.g., ammonium or potassium or
 sodium salt.
 Although the inventive compositions may have any pH in the general range of
 2.0 to 10, the inventive compositions are particularly useful when they
 are at an acidic pH (especially if they contain a hydroxy acid), most
 preferably at a pH of 2 to 4, because such compositions are particularly
 irritating.
 Retinoids enhance keratinocyte proliferation in vitro, increase epidermal
 thickness and increase collagen synthesis by dermal fibroblasts. This
 results in protection from sun damage and smoothing of wrinkled skin. The
 term "retinoids" as used herein includes retinoic acid, retinol, retinal
 and C.sub.2 -C.sub.5 retinyl esters, because these are the most
 irritating. Included in the term "retinoic acid" are 13-cis retinoic acid
 and all-trans retinoic acid.
 The term "retinol" includes the following isomers of retinol:
 all-trans-retinol, 13-cis-retinol, 11-cis-retinol, 9-cis-retinol,
 3,4-didehydro-retinol. Preferred isomers are all-trans-retinol,
 13-cis-retinol, 3,4-didehydro-retinol, 9-cis-retinol. Most preferred is
 all-trans-retinol, due to its wide commercial availability.
 Retinyl ester is an ester of retinol. The term "retinol" has been defined
 above. Retinyl esters suitable for use in the present invention are
 C.sub.2 -C.sub.5 esters of retinol, preferably C.sub.2 and C.sub.3 esters,
 and most preferably C.sub.2 ester because it is more commonly available.
 Retinyl esters included in the invention are also known as: retinyl
 acetate, retinyl propionate, retinyl butyrate, and retinyl pentanolate.
 A particular advantage of the inventive compositions is that higher amounts
 of hydroxy acids or retinoids may be employed without causing skin
 irritation. Preferably the amount of the hydroxy acid component present in
 the composition according to the invention is from 0.01 to 20%, more
 preferably from 0.1 to 12% and most preferably from 4 to 12% by weight.
 A retinoid may be present in the inventive compositions in an amount 33 to
 330,000 IU per gram of the composition, preferably 330 to 16,500 IU, most
 preferably 1,650 to 6,600 IU. Again, a higher amount of a retinoid may be
 employed in the inventive compositions without causing skin irritation,
 due to the co-presence of Turmeric extract.
 Most preferred inventive compositions containing turmeric extract
 anti-irritant include retinol and/or retinyl acetate and/or glycolic acid
 and/or lactic acid because these ingredients have been found to cause
 irritation yet they were found to be particularly efficacious at
 delivering cosmetic benefits.
 The skin treatment composition of the invention also includes a
 cosmetically acceptable vehicle or a carrier which is inert, usually an
 ingredient present in the highest amounts, and functioning to deliver
 active or performance ingredients.
 Vehicles other than water can include liquid or solid emollients, solvents,
 humectants, thickeners and powders. An especially preferred nonaqueous
 carrier is a polydimethyl siloxane and/or a polydimethyl phenyl siloxane.
 Silicones of this invention may be those with viscosities ranging anywhere
 from about 10 to 10,000,000 centistokes at 25.degree. C. Especially
 desirable are mixtures of low and high viscosity silicones. These
 silicones are available from the General Electric Company under trademarks
 Vicasil, SE and SF and from the Dow Corning Company under the 200 and 550
 Series. Amounts of silicone which can be utilized in the compositions of
 this invention range anywhere from 5 to 95%, preferably from 25 to 90% by
 weight of the composition. The amount of vehicle may range from about 2 to
 about 99 wt %, preferably from about 50 to about 99%, most preferably from
 about 80 to 99%, by weight of the total composition.
 According to the present invention, the vehicle is preferably at least 60
 wt % water, by weight of the vehicle. The inventive compositions are
 preferably oil-water emulsions, in order to improve dermal delivery of
 hydroxy acids (See Sah A., "An in-vitro study of the effect of formulation
 variables and product structure on the delivery of alpha-hydroxy acid
 (Lactic acid) to skin", MS Thesis, Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences
 of the College of Pharmacy, University of Cincinnati, Ohio, July 1996).
 Such improved delivery is frequently accompanied by increased
 irritation/sting, making the use turmeric extract in such emulsions
 particularly critical. In the preferred oil-in-water emulsions according
 to the present invention, water comprises at least 50 wt % of the
 inventive emulsion, most preferably from 50 to 70 wt %, by weight of the
 composition.
 Optional Skin Benefit Materials and Cosmetic Adjuncts
 Various types of active ingredients may be present in cosmetic compositions
 of the present invention. Actives are defined as skin benefit agents other
 than emollients and other than ingredients that merely improve the
 physical characteristics of the composition. Although not limited to this
 category, general examples include anti-wrinkle compounds and sunscreens
 and tanning agents.
 Sunscreens include those materials commonly employed to block ultraviolet
 light. Illustrative compounds are titanium dioxide, the derivatives of
 PABA, cinnamate and salicylate. For example, octyl methoxycinnamate and
 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone (also known as oxybenzone) can be used.
 Octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone are
 commercially available under the trademarks, Parsol MCX and
 Benzophenone-3, respectively. The exact amount of sunscreen employed in
 the emulsions can vary depending upon the degree of protection desired
 from the sun's UV radiation.
 Another category of functional ingredients within the cosmetic compositions
 of the present invention are thickeners. A thickener will usually be
 present in amounts anywhere from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from
 about 0.5% to 10% by weight of the composition. Exemplary thickeners are
 cross-linked polyacrylate materials available under the trademark Carbopol
 from the B.F. Goodrich Company. Gums may be employed such as xanthan,
 carrageenan, gelatin, karaya, pectin and locust beans gum. Under certain
 circumstances the thickening function may be accomplished by a material
 also serving as a silicone or emollient. For instance, silicone gums in
 excess of 10 centistokes and esters such as glycerol stearate have dual
 functionality.
 Powders may be incorporated into the cosmetic composition of the invention.
 These powders include chalk, talc, Fullers earth, kaolin, starch, smectite
 clays, chemically modified magnesium aluminum silicate, organically
 modified montmorillonite clay, hydrated aluminum silicate, fumed silica,
 aluminum starch octenyl succinate and mixtures thereof.
 Other adjunct minor components may also be incorporated into the cosmetic
 compositions. These ingredients may include coloring agents, opacifiers
 and perfumes. Amounts of these other component materials may range
 anywhere from 0.001% up to 20% by weight of the composition.
 Use of the Composition
 The composition according to the invention is intended primarily as a
 product for topical application to human skin, especially as an agent for
 conditioning and smoothening the skin, and preventing or reducing the
 appearance of wrinkled or aged skin.
 In use, a small quantity of the composition, for example from 1 to 100 ml,
 is applied to exposed areas of the skin, from a suitable container or
 applicator and, if necessary, it is then spread over and/or rubbed into
 the skin using the hand or fingers or a suitable device.
 According to the present inventive method, the skin irritation induced by
 the active ingredient is reduced or eliminated by topical application of
 turmeric extract. The turmeric extract may be co-present with the active,
 or it may be applied to the skin separately from the active.
 Product Form and Packaging
 The topical skin treatment composition of the invention can be formulated
 as a lotion, a fluid cream, a cream or a gel. The composition can be
 packaged in a suitable container to suit its viscosity and intended use by
 the consumer. For example, a lotion or fluid cream can be packaged in a
 bottle or a roll-ball applicator, or a capsule, or a propellant-driven
 aerosol device or a container fitted with a pump suitable for finger
 operation. When the composition is a cream, it can simply be stored in a
 non-deformable bottle or squeeze container, such as a tube or a lidded
 jar.
 The invention accordingly also provides a closed container containing a
 cosmetically acceptable composition as herein defined.
 The turmeric extract may be packaged separately from the composition
 containing HAs and/or retinoids.

The following specific examples further illustrate the invention, but the
 invention is not limited thereto. Turmeric extract employed in the
 examples was obtained from C.V. Alam Sari, Indonesia, under the tradename
 Extract Curcuma/Extract Temugiring. It contained 0.0009% curcumin.
 EXAMPLE 1
 This example investigated the anti-irritant capability of turmeric and
 curcumin using an in vitro test. It is known that the cytokine
 interleukin-1 (IL-1) has pro-inflammatory effects in the skin. IL-1 causes
 release of prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) which, in turn, can be responsible for
 irritation in the skin. A compound that can inhibit the PGE2 release
 caused by IL-1 can be expected to have anti-irritant properties.
 Furthermore, it has been reported that agents such as hydroxy acids can
 cause the release of IL-1 in skin. This example examined the ability of
 test compounds to inhibit the induction of PGE2 by the cytokine IL-1.
 Neonatal human dermal fibroblasts (obtained from Clonetics Corp., San
 Diego, Calif.; passage 5-9) were seeded at a density of 7500 cells per
 well in 96-well tissue culture treated plates (Corning-Costar, Corning,
 N.Y.). The medium used was Dulbecco's Modified Eagle's Medium (DMEM),
 high-glucose (Life Technologies, Gaithersburg, Md.) supplemented with 2 mM
 L-glutamine, 10% fetal bovine serum, and antibiotic and anti mycotic
 solutions (all also Life Technologies). After 48 hours, each well was
 rinsed twice with 200 .mu.l serum-free DMEM and the cells dosed with 200
 .mu.l in DMEM+L-glutamine containing IL-1 at 1 ng/ml or IL-1 plus test
 compound (turmeric extract or curcumin). Curcumin was purchased from
 Sigma. After six hours, cells were examined microscopically for
 qualitative viability, and the medium was harvested and frozen until
 analysis. Each treatment was run in quadruplicate.
 Enzyme immunoassay was performed using a commercial PGE2 kit (Amersham,
 Buckinghamshire, England). PGE2-specific antibody is precoated on a set of
 microtiter wells. The assay is based on the competition between unlabelled
 PGE2 (standard or sample) and a fixed quantity of peroxidase labeled PGE2
 for a limited amount of the well-bound PGE2-specific antibody. Standards
 of 0, 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, and 32 pg/well or 50 .mu.l media/well were applied
 with 50 .mu.l/well of 0.1 M phosphate buffer pH 7.5 for 3 hours at
 4.degree. C. At the end of this incubation, 50 .mu.l/well of horseradish
 peroxidase-conjugated PGE2 was added to all wells and the plate incubated
 for 1 hour at 4.degree. C. Plates were washed 4 times with 300 .mu.l/well
 0.01 M phosphate buffer pH 7.5 containing 0.5% Tween 20. 150 .mu.l/well
 3,3',5,5'-tetramethylbenzidine/hydrogen peroxide substrate in 20%
 dimethylformamide was added and the plate incubated exactly 30 minutes at
 room temperature. Reaction was stopped by adding 100 .mu.l/well 1 M
 sulfuric acid. The Spectramax 340 microplate spectrophotometer (Molecular
 Devises, Sunnyvale, CT) was used to quantitate color in the wells by
 reading absorbance at 450 nm. A standard curve was plotted and the amount
 of PGE2 in the samples was extrapolated from the curve.
 The anti-irritant potential of the test compounds is assessed by the
 ability of the compound to inhibit IL-1-induced PGE2. The higher percent
 inhibition, the more effective the anti-irritant. Statistical significance
 was determined using the student's t-test. The results that were obtained
 are summarized in Table 1.
 TABLE 1
 PG/ML % INHIBITION OF
 (AVG, IL-1-INDUCED
 TREATMENT N = 4) PGE2 P VS IL-1
 Expt. 1 26.5
 control
 IL-1 480.9
 IL-1 + turmeric 0.005% 22.7* 100 &lt;0.001
 IL-1 + turmeric 0.001% 14.1* 102 &lt;0.001
 Expt. 2 165.3
 control
 IL-1 768.6
 IL-1 + turmeric 0.01% 123.1 107 0.88
 IL-1 + turmeric 0.002% 63.6* 116 0.005
 Expt. 3 945.8
 control
 IL-1 5545.7
 IL-1 + curcumin 0.01% 745.7* 104 0.018
 IL-1 + curcumin 0.002% 458.5* 110 0.005
 Expt. 4 149.0
 control
 IL-1 279.7
 IL-1 + curcumin 0.01% 396.7 ** 0.2
 IL-1 + curcumin 0.001% 206.5 56 0.39
 *Significantly different from IL-la, p &lt; 0.05, student's t-test
 **Increase in PGE 2 (increase in irritation)
 The results in Table 1 demonstrate that both curcumin and turmeric extract
 exhibit anti-irritant activity in this test but the following analysis
 shows that the activity of the turmeric extract is not due to curcumin:
 The turmeric extract used in the above experiments was a 0.36% ethanolic
 extract of turmeric. It has been reported that curcumin content of
 harvested turmeric is 0.1% to 0.24% (Curcumin content of cultivated
 turmeric in Korea, Chi et al. Saengyak Hakhoechi (1983) 14 (2) 67-69).
 Assuming a curcumin content of 0.25%, the concentration of curcumin in the
 turmeric extract used here was 0.0009%. When used at 0.001% in the test
 (expt. 1), this would have contained only 0.9.times.10.sup.-6 % curcumin.
 Expt. 3 indicates that a concentration of 0.002% curcumin is required to
 give an activity comparable to 0.001% turmeric, therefore, it is evident
 that the activity of turmeric is not due to its curcumin content.
 EXAMPLE 2
 Subjects were tested according to Irritation Test Method described below.
 Irritation Test Method
 Four Exposure Patch Test: The objective was to compare the level of
 irritation produced by various test materials after repeated patch
 applications. The test materials were held in contact with the skin under
 occlusive conditions. The outer upper arm of the panelist was designated
 as the area of application. Bandage type dressing (Scanpor.RTM. tape) was
 used to hold the patches (25 mm Hill Top.RTM. Chamber fitted with 18 mm
 diameter disc of Webril.RTM. padding) into place. Both upper arms of the
 panelist were used. Patches were applied in a balanced random order.
 Patches were applied at 9:00 o'clock Monday morning and removed at 9:00
 o'clock Tuesday morning (24 hour exposure). A new set of patches was
 applied at 3:00 o'clock Tuesday afternoon and removed Wednesday morning at
 9:00 o'clock (18 hour exposure). A third set of patches was applied at
 3:00 o'clock Wednesday afternoon and removed Thursday morning at 9:00
 o'clock (18 hour exposure). A final set of patches was applied at 3:00
 o'clock Thursday afternoon and removed Friday morning at 9:00 o'clock (18
 hour exposure).
 Each time the patches were removed, the sites were rinsed with warm water
 and patted dry. The test sites were then marked with a surgical skin
 marking pen to ensure location for grading and subsequent patch
 applications. Test sites were evaluated at 3:00 p.m. on Tuesday,
 Wednesday, Thursday and Friday of the study, prior to re-patching.
 Skin irritation such as moderate redness, dryness, and/or itching of the
 test site is expected. Swelling of the test sites is possible. If any test
 has moderate redness or any swelling at evaluation, that particular test
 site should not be repatched.
 The test sites on each arm were visually ranked by two trained examiners
 under consistent lighting. The test sites were ranked in order of
 severity. The examiner ranking responses at the first evaluation period
 continued ranking the sites each day throughout the study.
 In ranking the reactions, the site with the most severe response was given
 the lowest score. The site with the second most severe response was given
 the second lowest score, etc. There was no forced ranking. If two or more
 sites had no response or the same response (no difference between sites),
 an average of the ranks was assigned. If a site has been discontinued, due
 to degree of irritation the site retained the rank it received at the time
 dosing was discontinued.
 Statistical Analysis
 The ranking results from the patch treatments were statistically compared
 by nonparametric statistical methods. The test materials containing the
 anti-irritants were compared to the corresponding control containing only
 hydroxy acid and/or retinoid, using Friedman's Rank Sum. Treatments were
 compared to the Formula 2 at each evaluation point using Friedman's
 analysis with the panelist acting as a block (i.e., each panelist was
 tested with each test treatment). p-value of &lt;0.1 was considered
 statistically significant.

EMULSION BASE FORMULA
 FULL CHEMICAL NAME OR TRADE NAME AND %
 CFTA NAME ACTIVE AS RECEIVED WT. %
 water, DI 46.54
 disodium EDTA Sequesterene Na2 0.05
 magnesium aluminum silicate Veegum Ultra 0.6
 methyl paraben Methyl Paraben 0.15
 simethicone DC Antifoam, Emulsion 0.01
 butylene glycol 1,3 Butylene Glycol 1,3 3.0
 hydroxyethylcellulose Natrosol 250HHR 0.5
 glycerine, USP Glycerine USP 2.0
 xanthan gum Keltrol 1000 0.2
 triethanolamine Triethanolamine 99 (%) 1.2
 stearic acid Pristerene 4911 3.0
 propyl paraben NF Propylparaben NF 0.1
 glyceryl hydrostearate Naturechem GMHS 1.5
 stearyl alcohol Lanette 18DEO 1.5
 isostearyl palmitate Protachem ISP 6.0
 C12-15 alcohols octanoate Hetester FAO 3.0
 dimethicone Silicone Fluid 200 (50 cts) 1.0
 cholesterol NF Cholesterol NF 0.5
 sorbitan stearate Sorbitan Stearate 1.0
 butylated hydroxytoluene Embanox BHT 0.05
 tocopheryl acetate Vitamin E Acetate 0.1
 PEG-100 stearate MYRJ 59 2.0
 sodium stearoyl lactylate Pationic SSL 0.5
 retinyl palmitate Vit. A Palmitate 84% 0.06
 hydroxy caprylic acid Hydroxy caprylic acid 0.1
 water, DI q.s. to
 99.80
 alpha-bisabolol Alpha-bisabolol 0.2
 pH 7-8
 Additional ingredients in the Examples below were added in place of water.
 Compositions containing ingredients as indicated in Tables 2 and 2A were
 tested using the Irritation Test Method. Twenty subjects were tested for
 Table 2 test and 17 for Table 2A test . The results that were obtained are
 summarized in Tables 2 and 2A. The higher the Sum of Ranks, the less
 severe the irritation.
 TABLE 2
 Irritation Test Results
 COMPO- SUM OF RANKS
 SITION INGREDIENTS (DAY 4)
 1 Base Formula 68.5.sup.a
 2 Control: Base Formula + 8% Glyco- 46.5
 lic Acid and 0.075% Retinol
 3 Composition #2 + 3% Black Currant 58.0
 Seed Oil
 4 Composition #2 + 1% Sambucus 44.5
 *Significantly less irritating than composition #2.
 TABLE 2
 Irritation Test Results
 COMPO- SUM OF RANKS
 SITION INGREDIENTS (DAY 4)
 1 Base Formula 68.5.sup.a
 2 Control: Base Formula + 8% Glyco- 46.5
 lic Acid and 0.075% Retinol
 3 Composition #2 + 3% Black Currant 58.0
 Seed Oil
 4 Composition #2 + 1% Sambucus 44.5
 *Significantly less irritating than composition #2.
 It can be seen from the results in Table 2 that after four exposures, 8%
 glycolic acid with 0.075% retinol (composition #2) was significantly more
 irritating than Base formula #1. 1% Sambucus (#4) or 3% Black Currant Seed
 Oil (#3) did not significantly reduce the irritation. Sambucus and Black
 currant seed oil are known anti-irritants. However, neither agent was
 effective in reducing alpha hydroxy acid/retinol induced irritation.
 By contrast, as demonstrated by the results in Table 2A, turmeric extract
 (composition #7) significantly reduced the irritation induced by
 Composition 5 (containing 8% glycolic acid) and composition 6 (containing
 8% glycolic and ethanol--the more appropriate control for this
 experiment).
 COMATIVE EXAMPLE 3
 Compositions 1, 2 and 11-14 containing ingredients as indicated in Table 3
 were tested using the Irritation Test Method described in Example 2.
 Seventeen subjects were tested. The results that were obtained are
 summarized in Table 3. The higher the sum of ranks, the less is the
 irritation.
 TABLE 3
 Irritation Test Results
 COMPOSI- SUM OF RANKS
 TION # INGREDIENTS (DAY 4)
 1 Base Formula 74.5.sup.a
 2 Base Formula + 8% Glycolic + 0.075% 61.5
 Retinol
 11 Composition #2 + 1% Green Tea 51.0
 12 Composition #2 + 0.1% K2 54.5
 Glycyrrohetinic Acid
 13 Composition #2 + 3% Quench T* 58.5
 14 Composition #2 + 3% Polyol 57.0
 Prepolymer-2**
 .sup.a Statistically less irritating than composition #2.
 *An anti-irritant from Centerchem (containing water, butylene glycol, kola
 bean extract, guarana extract, and mate extract).
 **An anti-irritant from Penederm, Inc. (CFTA name PPG-12/SMDI).
 It can be seen from the results in Table 3 that none of the known
 anti-irritants tested were able to significantly reduce the irritation
 induced by composition #2 (containing 8% Glycolic Acid and 0.075%
 Retinol).
 EXAMPLE 4
 A typical oil-in-water emulsion within the scope of the invention is as
 follows:

chemical name wt %
 squalane 20.0
 macadamia oil 5.0
 pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate 15.0
 petrolatum 5.0
 glyceryl stearate 3.0
 tocopherol acetate 0.5
 butylated hydroxytoluene 0.05
 methyl paraben 0.15
 propyl paraben 0.15
 retinol 0.1
 turmeric extract 0.25
 sodium citrate 1.0
 ascorbic acid 1.0
 butylene glycol 2.0
 glycerol 2.0
 bentone clay 0.2
 disodium EDTA 0.05
 water DI qs to 100%
 It should be understood that the specific forms of the invention herein
 illustrated and described are intended to be representative only. Changes,
 including but not limited to those suggested in this specification, may be
 made in the illustrated embodiments without departing from the clear
 teachings of the disclosure. Accordingly, reference should be made to the
 following appended claims in determining the full scope of the invention.