Anhydrous cosmetic product containing a particular gel phase

An anhydrous, three-phase powder-like cosmetic product comprising PA0 a) 10 to 60 weight % of a gel phase comprising ethylene/acrylate copolymer and an ester having the formula ROCOR, wherein R is an alcohol or fatty alcohol having a molecular weight of 60-400 and R.sub.1 is a fatty acid having a molecular weight of 120-500; PA0 b) 30 to 60 weight % of a powder phase comprising filler, color, preservative and substantially spherical silica particles having an average particle size of less than 15 microns; and PA0 c) 10 to 20 weight % of an oil phase comprising cosmetically acceptable alcohol esters of fatty acids.

TECHNICAL FIELD 
This invention relates to pourable anhydrous gels, in stick, cake or cream 
form such as a cosmetic blush, lipstick, eyeshadow, mascara, eyeliner, and 
foundation. More particularly, this invention relates to a cosmetic gel 
formed from a copolymer of ethylene/acrylic acid and an ester of cosmetic 
oil. 
PRIOR ART 
Ethylene/acrylic acid copolymers have been used extensively to make polymer 
films, polishes, and waxes. The copolymers have been used in the past in 
cosmetics, but this use has been limited to a wax ingredient similar to 
carnauba wax, as shown in U.S. Pat. No. 4,574,082. The copolymers have not 
been used to form cosmetic gels. 
U.S. Pat. No. 4,837,011 discloses spherical silica having a particle size 
of 6-20 microns in a cosmetic powder. Published Japanese Patent 
Application 95395/1985 filed May 7, 1985 discloses spherical cosmetic 
powders of organic and inorganic materials, including silica, coated with 
a polymer, such as polyethylene. However, these references do not show a 
cosmetic made from ethylene/acrylic acid copolymers. 
Previous anhydrous pourable gel based cosmetics have been limited in their 
application and versatility. The gels have difficulty dispersing the 
powder ingredients (fillers, pigments and color) uniformly throughout the 
gel. 
It is therefore highly desirable to formulate a powder-like anhydrous 
cosmetic gel compatible with conventional cosmetic powder ingredients, 
which is exceedingly smooth, and which can be applied like a powder by the 
use of a brush, fingers or an applicator. 
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
It has now been found that the above and other objects of this invention 
can be achieved by formulating a three-phase anhydrous cosmetic product 
comprising a gel phase of ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer and a 
cosmetically acceptable ester, a powder phase containing filler, color, 
preservative and microfine spherical particles of silica as an essential 
component, said silica having an average particle size of 1-15 microns, 
and an oil phase containing cosmetically acceptable esters, oils, and 
fragrance. The cosmetic gel of this invention is highly stable, 
non-reactive and compatible with cosmetic powders, oils and waxes. It has 
unusual swelling properties which permit up to 60 weight % of solid 
ingredients in the powder phase to be absorbed by the gel. 
At least 10 weight % of the particles in the powder phase are coated with a 
polymer, such as polyethylene. The coating being present at a 1-3 weight % 
of the coated material. The silica is at least 10 weight % of the total 
composition.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION 
The three-phase system employs 10-60 weight % of the gel phase of 
ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer; 20-60 weight % of the powder phase, and 
10-20 weight % of the oil phase. 
As indicated the copolymer which acts as gelling agent for the gel phase is 
an ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer. The ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer is 
mainly comprised of ethylene chains with small amounts of functional 
groups attached. The copolymers have a molecular weight of 2000-3000 with 
the following properties: 
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Brookfield 
Acid No. 
Drop Point 
Hardness Density Viscosity cps 
mg 
.degree.C. 
F..degree. 
dmm g/cc at 140.degree. C. 
KOH/g 
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108 226 2.0 0.93 500 40 
102 216 4.0 0.93 650 75 
92 198 11.5 0.93 650 120 
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The cosmetic ester is an alcohol ester of a fatty acid having the formula 
ROCOR, wherein R is an alcohol having a molecular weight of 60-400, and 
R.sub.1 is an acid having a molecular weight of 120-500. 
The gel phase of this invention is formed by simply mixing the 1-6 weight % 
of gelling agent with the oil phase containing 20-40 weight % of the 
desired ester at 80.degree.-90.degree. C. to form a homogeneous gel phase 
solution. The ester is one normally used in the oil phase of a cosmetic 
product. Preferred is octyl stearate, or isopropyl isostearate, but other 
similar esters can be used. These include glycerol esters, C.sub.3 
-C.sub.22 alcohol esters of C.sub.3 -C.sub.22 fatty acids, and C.sub.12 
-C.sub.22 fatty alcohols. In addition to the ester which interacts with 
the gelling agent to form the essential gel phase of this invention, the 
oil phase may contain up to 20 weight % of additional cosmetically 
acceptable esters, oils, waxes, fragrances, emollients and the like, 
depending on the particular end product desired. 
The powder phase of this invention employs substantially spherical 
particles of silica as an essential filler ingredient. The silica is at 
least 10 weight % of the total cosmetic composition. The silica spheres 
have an average particle size of less than 15 microns, with an average 
particle size of 2-5 microns being preferred. The microspheres of silica 
help to give a silky, smooth feel to the final product. Additionally, 
smoothness is enhanced by treating the silica with a polymer coating of 
polyethylene or other similar polymer. Smoothness is enhanced by coating 
the silica with polyethylene. At least 10 weight % of the total 
composition should be treated or coated with the polyethylene at a level 
of 1-3 weight %, preferably 1-2 weight % of the coated material. 
Alternatively, other fillers, besides or instead of the silica, such as 
the pigments and colors used in the powder phase may be treated with the 
polymeric coating. All fillers, pigments, and colors added should have a 
particle size below 15 microns, and preferably an average particle size of 
2-5 microns. 
While optional, it is preferred to add 5-15 weight % of microspheres of a 
polymeric material, such as polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA), nylon, or 
polyethylene, to the silica in the powder phase. These microspheres also 
have a particle size below 15 microns, and further improve the smooth feel 
of the product. PMMA is most preferred, and a titanated form (PMMA 
isopropyl isostearyl titanate) or untitanated form (PMMA) can be used. 
DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS 
The generic cosmetic gel of this invention comprises the following parts by 
weight: 
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Ethylene/acrylate copolymer 
1-6 
Isopropyl isostearate 
10-50 
Silica (spherical) 1-30 
Treated pigments and colors 
1-25 
Oils, esters & fragrances 
10-20 
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The preferred gel phase is formed by reacting the copolymer with isopropyl 
isostearate as the preferred ester. The oil phase may include any 
conventional oil, ester, fragrance or perfume used in cosmetic 
formulations. These include peg-4-diheptanoate, octyl stearate, isostearyl 
neopentanoate, sorbitan sesquioleate, trilaurin, geranium 
extract/dipropylene glycol, etc. The powder phase, aside from silica, as 
the essential powder, preferably includes PMMA in titanated or untitanated 
form, treated pigments and treated colors. The treated pigments are talc, 
titanium dioxide, mica, kaolin or similar equivalents coated with 
polyethylene. The treated colors are iron oxide, zinc oxide or similar 
equivalents coated with polyethylene. The powder phase also contains 
conventional preservatives. These are propyl paraben, phenoxy ethanol, 
butyl paraben, benzoic acid, methyl paraben, and imidazolidinyl urea. 
These preservatives are used at a level of 0.2-2.0 weight %, but a 
preferable range is 0.2-1.5 weight %. Antioxidants, such as BHA, are used 
at a level of 0.01-0.20. 
To make the cosmetic gels of this invention, one stirs the copolymers and 
ester together to form the gel phase. The oil phase is then added until a 
uniform mixture is achieved. After the oil phase and gel phase have been 
combined the powder phase (treated fillers, treated pigments, treated 
colors and preservatives) are then added to the liquid mixture and 
dispersed using high shear equipment until a homogeneous dispersion is 
obtained. The dispersion is then heated to a point above the melting 
temperature of any wax material which is to be added (usually 
70.degree.-90.degree.). The mixture is then poured hot 
(70.degree.-90.degree. C.) into jars, sticks, pencils and the like. 
This invention will now be described by reference to the following examples 
which are illustrative. The above procedure was used in each example for 
preparing the final product. 
EXAMPLE 1 
Blusher 
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Ethylene/acrylate copolymer 
3.84 
Isopropyl isostearate 37.25 
Peg-4-diheptanoate 4.20 
Octyl stearate 4.20 
Isostearyl neopentanoate 
6.10 
Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.50 
Trilaurin 2.20 
Geranium Extract/dipropylene glycol 
0.10 
BHA 0.10 
Preservatives 1.65 
Titanium dioxide/polyethylene 
2.00 
Red iron oxide/polyethylene 
1.20 
Yellow iron oxide/polyethylene 
1.15 
Black iron oxide/polyethylene 
0.25 
Red 6 barium lake 0.05 
Polymethyl methacrylate 
11.00 
Silica 15.00 
Mica/polyethylene 9.20 
Dimethicone 0.01 
100.00 
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EXAMPLE 2 
Foundation 
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Ethylene/acrylate copolymer 
3.64 
Isopropyl isostearate 37.25 
Peg-4-diheptanoate 4.20 
Octyl stearate 4.20 
Isostearyl neopentanoate 
6.10 
Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.50 
Trilaurin 2.20 
Geranium extract/dipropylene glycol 
0.10 
BHA 0.10 
Preservatives 1.65 
Titanium dioxide/polyethylene 
6.03 
Red iron oxide/polyethylene 
0.56 
Yellow iron oxide/polyethylene 
1.58 
Black iron oxide/polyethylene 
0.19 
Polymethyl methacrylate/titanate 
5.03 
Silica 17.08 
Mica/polyethylene 9.39 
Dimethicone 0.01 
100.00 
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EXAMPLE 3 
Eye Shadow 
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Ethylene/acrylate copolymer 
3.84 
Isopropyl isostearate 37.25 
Peg-4-diheptanoate 4.20 
Octyl stearate 4.20 
Isostearyl neopentanoate 
6.10 
Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.50 
Trilaurin 2.20 
Geranium extract/dipropylene glycol 
0.10 
BHA 0.10 
Preservatives 1.65 
Titanium dioxide 2.20 
Yellow iron oxide/polyethylene 
1.00 
Titanium dioxide/mica/iron oxide 
1.65 
Polymethyl methacrylate 
11.00 
Silica 15.00 
Mica/polyethylene 9.20 
Dimethicone 0.01 
100.00 
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EXAMPLE 4 
Lipstick 
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Ethylene/acrylate copolymer 
3.46 
Isopropyl isostearate 33.53 
Peg-4-diheptanoate 3.78 
Octyl stearate 3.78 
Isostearyl neopentanoate 
5.49 
Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.45 
Trilaurin 1.98 
Geranium extract/dipropylene glycol 
0.09 
Ceresin wax 10.00 
BHA 0.09 
Preservatives 1.48 
Titanium dioxide/polyethylene 
1.80 
Red No. 7 1.40 
Yellow No. 5 0.16 
Polymethyl methacrylate 
9.90 
Silica 13.50 
Mica/polyethylene 8.14 
Dimethicone 0.01 
100.00 
______________________________________ 
EXAMPLE 5 
Pencil 
______________________________________ 
Ethylene/acrylate copolymer 
3.46 
Isopropyl isostearate 33.53 
Peg-4-diheptanoate 3.78 
Octyl stearate 3.78 
Isostearyl neopentanoate 
5.49 
Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.45 
Trilaurin 1.98 
Geranium extract/dipropylene glycol 
0.09 
Ceresin wax 10.00 
BHA 0.09 
Preservatives 1.48 
Titanium dioxide/polyethylene 
1.80 
Black iron oxide 3.67 
Titanium dioxide 0.96 
Polymethyl methacrylate 
9.90 
Silica 13.50 
Mica/polyethylene 6.00 
Dimethicone 0.01 
100.00 
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While this invention has been described by specific examples, it is 
apparent that various changes and modifications may be made without 
departing from the spirit and scope thereof. Therefore, the invention is 
not to be limited except as defined in the following claims.