High alkaline hair compositions for increased fullness and body

The invention provides compositions for providing body, fullness and texture to otherwise fine or very fine keratinous fibers, particularly human hair. The compositions of the present invention have a high pH, e.g., about 8 to about 10 when the compositions contain cationic polymer, and a pH of about 8 to about 14, preferably about 8.5 to about 13, and more preferably, about 8.5 to about 10 when the compositions contain no cationic polymer. The compositions include one or more nonionic and/or cationic polymers, which, in combination with the high pH of the composition, lift the hair cuticle and allow the deposition of polymer, thus resulting in increased fullness and texture to the hair. The compositions of the present invention may be in the form of known hair care products such as, for example, shampoos, rinses and conditioners. In addition, the compositions can be formulated, for example, as lotions or creams, and the like, for consumer use. The hair care compositions of the present invention provide beneficial and long-lasting effects of body and fullness within a minute or less after application to the hair.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION 
The present invention relates generally to hair shampoos and hair care 
products. More particularly, the invention relates to shampoo and hair 
care compositions having a high pH and comprising components which provide 
conditioning effects and increased body and fullness to the hair, 
particularly, fine hair or very fine hair. 
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
Hair care products specific to the needs of consumers with fine hair have 
long been commercially available. Shampoos for improving the body of fine 
hair have been the most widely used of all hair care products. Such 
shampoos that are common to the marketplace are typically formulated to 
have pH ranges that are acidic to neutral, for example, about 5.5 to 7.0. 
Many of the low pH to neutral pH hair shampoos do not provide lasting 
fullness and body to fine and very fine hair. This may be a consequence of 
a failure of prior art products to provide a perception of texture to the 
hair or to remain on the hair shaft after subsequent rinsing and 
shampooing. 
Low pH works to close cuticles that surround the hair shaft. This, in turn, 
decreases penetration of active ingredients in a product and tends to 
decrease the diameter of the hair, thus resulting in a decrease in the 
perception of body and fullness of the hair. 
U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,240,450; 4,445,521; 4,719,099 and 5,009,880 to J.-F. 
Grollier et al. disclose anchoring of anionic polymers to keratin material 
by means of a cationic polymer, via an interaction (i.e., complexation) 
between the two types of polymers. The Grollier et al. patents do not 
disclose or teach high pH and rapid deposition of polymer. The patents 
disclose that the substantivity of the anionic polymer is improved by its 
interaction with cationic polymer. 
U.S. Pat. No. 4,847,076 to V. M. Deshpande et al. discloses compositions 
and methods for enhancing the body of hair in which harsh reducing agents, 
i.e., alkali metal or ammonium bisulfites, are required. The disclosed 
compositions require contact with hair for about 20 to 30 minutes prior to 
rinsing from the hair. 
U.S. Pat. No. 5,352,389 to G. Gazzani discloses aqueous compositions for 
cleaning hair, skin and scalp. The disclosed compositions include 
surfactants and lipases to increase their cleaning efficacy. No polymers 
are included in the compositions, which are not contemplated for improving 
or providing long-lasting fullness and body. 
H. Edelstein, "Hair Conditioners and Conditioning", Cosmetics and 
Toiletries, Vol. 100 (4):31-36, April 1985, discloses that cationic 
substances having a strong positive charge are attracted to the hair at pH 
above 3.8. However, there is no recognition that a cationic polymer in a 
composition at a pH from about 8 to about 10, or a nonionic polymer in a 
composition at a pH of from about 8 to about 14, results in an increased 
perception of texture, body and fullness to the hair by the user. 
The present invention addresses the need in the art for improved shampoos 
and hair care products designed to increase fullness and body to hair, 
particularly fine and very fine hair. The present invention provides novel 
alkaline compositions and formulations, which combine a higher pH, i.e., 
about 8 to 8.5 and above, with cationic and/or nonionic polymers, to 
create products that provide, in a surprisingly short time, a perception 
of texture to the hair and impart long-lasting fullness and body to users 
with fine to very fine hair. The terms "high pH" and "high or highly 
alkaline" are used interchangeably herein. 
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
It is an object of the present invention to provide hair care products for 
improving and adding fullness, texture and body to keratinous fibers, 
particularly human hair, and more particularly, fine or very fine hair. A 
variety of hair care products are intended to be embraced by the present 
invention, including, but not limited to, shampoos, conditioning shampoos 
and rinses. 
It is another object of the present invention to provide high alkaline hair 
compositions and methods containing one or more nonionic and/or cationic 
polymers, for example, guars and the like, and derivatives thereof, 
wherein the compositions are stable and active over time, despite the 
higher pH environment of the composition. In accordance with the present 
invention, when the compositions contain a cationic polymer, the pH of the 
compositions is from about 8 to about 10; however, when the compositions 
contain no cationic polymer, the pH of the compositions can be from about 
8 to about 14, preferably about 8.5 to about 13, and more preferably, 
about 8.5 to about 10. Also, in accordance with the present invention, the 
components of the hair compositions rapidly deposit on the hair to provide 
body, fullness and texture to otherwise fine or very fine hair, after 
shampooing and rinsing from the hair. 
Further objects and advantages afforded by the present invention will be 
apparent from the detailed description hereinbelow. 
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION 
The present invention provides new compositions and formulations that are 
capable of imparting a noticeable increase in body and fullness to hair, 
particularly, fine and very fine hair. As used herein, the terms 
composition and formulation are interchangeable. The compositions of the 
present invention have a pH of about 8 or greater, and comprise one or 
more nonionic and/or cationic polymers, wherein the use of the products 
provides to the user the perception of fuller texture and body to the 
hair. The elevated pH combined with one or more nonionic and/or cationic 
polymers in the compositions of the present invention provide the effects 
of fullness, texture and body to the hair, along with conditioning 
effects, if desired, especially if a cationic polymer, such as guar, is 
included in the inventive compositions. 
Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the elevated pH 
of the compositions of the present invention causes the hair or a shaft of 
a keratinous fiber to swell and the cuticle to lift. This effect is 
temporary; thus, when the hair is rinsed, the pH returns to normal or 
near-normal levels, and the cuticles flatten. However, in accordance with 
the present invention, the formulation of the polymers in a high pH 
medium, such as a shampoo, for example, allows the hair to swell and the 
included polymers to penetrate into the hair and to deposit under the 
cuticle and attach to the hair. The included nonionic and/or cationic 
polymers prevent the cuticle from closing completely, which thickens the 
hair shaft and provides it with more surface roughness and texture, after 
application to the hair. This effect was unexpectedly discovered by the 
present inventors to occur rapidly, i.e., within one minute or less. 
As mentioned above, upon rinsing the hair and lowering the pH, the presence 
of the deposited polymer in the compositions of the present invention 
blocks the cuticle from returning to its prior flattened state. In 
accordance with the present invention, the polymer is trapped and the hair 
thus feels slightly "swelled". This imparts a thicker look and feel to the 
hair and gives the hair fiber more body and fullness. 
The hair care compositions of the present invention are aqueous based and 
may be prepared in a variety of final formulations including lotions, 
creams, gels, emulsions, pumps, sprays, aerosols, mousses/foams, solutions 
and the like. Water is present in the compositions at about 30% to about 
99%, preferably, about 50% to about 95%, more preferably, about 70% to 
about 90%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. It is 
hereinafter to be understood that, unless otherwise specified, all 
reagents and components of the compositions of the present invention are 
present in % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 
In accordance with the present invention, when a cationic polymer is 
present the pH range of the shampoo and hair care product formulations of 
the present invention is about 8 to about 10; in the absence of a cationic 
polymer in the formulations, the pH range can be about 8 to about 14, 
preferably about 8.5 to about 13, and more preferably, about 8.5 to about 
10. 
The nonionic and cationic polymers suitable for use in the compositions of 
the invention provide the benefits of penetrating and thickening the hair, 
thereby preventing the collapse of the cuticles during rinsing and 
allowing polymer deposition on the surface of the hair to increase 
texture. Moreover, in the high pH environment of the compositions of the 
present invention, these polymers deposit and produce their beneficial 
effects within seconds, thus providing the compositions of the present 
invention advantages in time and efficiency. 
Cationic polymers which can be used in the present invention include, but 
are not limited to, polymers having quaternary amine groups. More 
specifically, a cationic polymer for use in the present invention is a 
cationic derivative of guar gum or locust bean gum. Such gums are 
polygalactomannans containing two mannose units with a glycoside linkage 
and a galactose unit attached to one of the hydroxyl groups of the mannose 
units. The hydroxyl groups are reacted with certain reactive quaternary 
ammonium compounds to obtain the cationic derivative. 
The quaternary ammonium compounds suitable for preparing the cationic gum 
derivatives of the present invention have the following structure: 
##STR1## 
wherein R.sub.1, R.sub.2 and R.sub.3 are alkyl, aryl and substituted alkyl 
and aryl groups, R.sub.4 is selected from the group consisting of 
epoxyalkyl and halohydrin, and Z.sup.- is an anion, e.g., Cl.sup.-, 
Br.sup.-, I.sup.- and HSO4.sup.- : 
Suitable epoxyalkyl groups have the structure: 
##STR2## 
and suitable halohydrins have the structure: 
##STR3## 
wherein R.sub.5 is a divalent alkylene of 1 to 3 carbons and X is a 
halogen. 
Particularly preferred is the compound 3-(trimethylamino)-2-hydroxypropyl 
guar chloride which has the structure: 
##STR4## 
wherein R is a polygalactomannan molecule based on guar, and is sold as 
Cosmedia Guar 216N by Henkel Corporation. Another preferred cationic guar 
is a quaternary ammonium derivative of hydroxypropyl guar, such as guar 
hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, which is exemplified by the JAGUAR.RTM. 
products commercially available from Rhone-Poulenc. 
Nonionic polymers which are suitable for use in the present invention are 
generally classified as water soluble nonionic poly(ethylene oxide) 
homopolymers (e.g., polyethylene glycols) having the following structure: 
EQU H(OCH.sub.2 CH.sub.2).sub.n OH, where n=2,000 to 115,000. 
More specifically, the nonionic polymers include the Polyox.RTM. water 
soluble resins (Amerchol) which are completely water-soluble, are stable 
at pH of about 8 to 12 and range in molecular weight from approximately 
100,000 to approximately 5.times.10.sup.6. Nonlimiting examples of 
particular grades of polyethylene glycol (Polyox) water soluble resins 
suitable for use in the present invention are included in the following 
Table 1: 
TABLE 1 
______________________________________ 
Tradename CTFA Name 
______________________________________ 
Polyox WSR N-10 (MW: 100,000) 
PEG-2M 
Polyox WSR N-80 (MW: 200,000) PEG-5M 
Polyox WSR N-750 (MW: 300,000) PEG-7M 
Polyox WSR N-3000 (MW: 400,000) PEG-14M 
Polyox WSR N-3333 (MW: 400,000) PEG-9M 
Polyox WSR 205 (MW: 600,000) PEG-14M 
Polyox WSR-1105 (MW: 900,000) PEG-20M 
Polyox WSR N-12K (MW: 1,000,000) PEG-23M 
Polyox WSR N-60K (MW: 2,000,000) PEG-45M 
Polyox WSR-301 (MW: 4,000,000) PEG-90M 
Polyox Coagulant (MW: 5,000,000) PEG-115M 
______________________________________ 
Preferred is Polyox WSR N-750 (PEG-7M). 
The polymers are present in the compositions in accordance with the present 
invention in an amount effective to increase hair body and fullness. More 
specifically, the polymers are present at about 0.01% to about 10%, 
preferably, about 0.05% to about 5% and more preferably, about 0.1% to 
about 1%. 
In another embodiment of the present invention, one or more surfactants is 
included in the high pH compositions as described. Suitable surfactants 
are described below. Preferred surfactants in these compositions are 
anionic and/or amphoteric surfactants, and betaines. Nonlimiting examples 
of preferred surfactants include sodium lauryl sulfate, cocamidopropyl 
betaine (CAPB), sodium laureth sulfate and blends or mixtures thereof. 
A preferred composition of the present invention comprises a high pH, e.g., 
about 8.0 to about 10, at least one cationic polymer and/or a nonionic 
polymer and one or more anionic surfactant. Preferred polymers in the 
compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, 
Jaguar.RTM. (Rhone-Poulenc), Polyox.RTM. (Amerchol), Celquats (National 
Starch), Merquats (Merck), Gafquats (ISP), Polymer JR (Amerchol) and 
Cosmedia Polymer LR (Henkel Corporation). 
Suitable anionic surfactants for use in the compositions of the present 
invention are those generally incorporated into hair care products of the 
desired types. Generally, for shampoos, the anionic surfactants are 
water-soluble alkyl or alkyl aryl sulfates or sulfonates having from about 
8 to about 22 carbons, preferably from about 12 to about 18 carbons in the 
alkyl radical, which may be straight or branched chain. These surfactants 
also include such classes of compounds which are ethoxylated with from 1 
to 5 mols, preferably 1 to 3 mols, of ethylene oxide (EO) per molecule. 
The sulfate or sulfonate group is typically base-neutralized to provide an 
alkali metal, especially a sodium, potassium, ammonium, or mono-, di- or 
triethanolamine. 
Illustrative anionic surfactants of the above-named classes include, but 
are not limited to: sodium cetyl sulfate; sodium myristyl sulfate; sodium 
lauryl sulfate; sodium tallow sulfate; sodium decyl sulfate; sodium 
decylbenzene sulfonate; sodium tridecylbenzene sulfonate; sodium C.sub.14 
-C.sub.16 olefin sulfonate; sodium C.sub.12 -C.sub.15 alcohol sulfate; 
sodium lauryl ether sulfate; sodium myristyl ether sulfate; sodium 
polyoxyethylene (5 mols EO) lauryl ether sulfate; sodium polyoxyethylene 
(12 mols EO) lauryl ether sulfate; sodium nonylphenyl ether sulfate; 
sodium polyoxyethylene (1 to 4 mols EO); C.sub.12 -C.sub.15 alkyl ether 
sulfate and sodium lauryl sulfoacetate. Although sodium salts are 
identified above, the other, previously-named cations would also be 
suitable, especially ammonium. 
Other suitable anionic surfactants include sulfosuccinates, e.g., sodium 
dioctyl sulfosuccinate; disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and the disodium 
polyoxyethylene (1 to 4 mols EO) lauryl alcohol half ester of 
sulfosuccinic acid; sulfated monoglycerides, e.g., sodium 
cocomonoglyceride sulfate; sarcosinates, e.g., sodium cocoyl sarcosinate 
and sodium lauroyl sarcosinate; esters of isethionic acid, e.g., sodium 
cocoyl isethionate and sodium lauroyl isethionate; taurates, e.g., sodium 
N-methyl-N-cocoyl taurate and sodium N-methyl-N-oleoyl taurate. Soaps may 
also be incorporated, e.g., sodium stearate, sodium laurate and sodium 
isethionate. Also suitable are protalbinic and lysalbinic acid 
derivatives, generally classed as Maypon surfactants. The anionic 
surfactants may be used singly or in combination. Often, two or more 
anionic surfactants may be blended to achieve a desired viscosity, 
cleaning benefit, or other property. 
The anionic surfactants are typically present in the compositions of the 
present invention in an amount of from about 1% to about 50% active. 
However, the concentration is not deemed critical so long as the 
concentration employed does not interfere in the physical stability of the 
product shampoo. Preferably, the anionic surfactants are present in an 
amount of from about 5% to about 35% active, most preferably, from about 
10% to about 25% active. 
Preferred anionic surfactants are sodium or ammonium C.sub.12 to C.sub.14 
alkyl sulfates, and sodium or ammonium C.sub.12 to C.sub.14 alkyl ethyl 
sulfates having 1 to 3 mols EO. An especially preferred anionic surfactant 
system (e.g., a surfactant blend) comprises from about 4% to about 15% 
active sodium lauryl sulfate and from about 3% to about 10% active sodium 
lauryl ether sulfate. 
Other types of surfactants can also be used in concert with anionic 
surfactants in the compositions of the present invention. Such surfactants 
include nonionic, betaines (a class of zwitterionic surfactants), 
amphoteric and cationic surfactants. 
Suitable nonionics can be broadly defined as compounds produced by the 
condensation of alkylene oxide groups (hydrophilic in nature) with an 
organic hydrophobic compound, which may be aliphatic or alkyl aromatic in 
nature. Such nonionics are characterized by long chain oxyethylene or 
oxyethylene-oxypropylene units. Illustrative materials are the 
polyoxyethylene octyl and nonyl phenyl ethers having above about 6 mols 
ethylene oxide, preferably about 6 to 15 mols ethylene oxide, e.g., the 
Igepal surfactants; block copolymers of ethylene and propylene oxide 
generally designated as Pluronic.RTM. surfactants, and polyoxyethylene 
sorbitan monolaurates and monostearates, generally designated as Tween 
surfactants. However, these classes of nonionic surfactants are exemplary 
and should not be regarded as limiting. The nonionic surfactant is 
generally present in the compositions of the present invention in an 
amount of from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to 
about 5%. 
Betaines, a class of zwitterionic surfactants, are also suitable for use in 
the present invention. Examples of betaines that are useful herein include 
the high alkyl betaines, such as cocodimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, 
lauryl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl alpha-carboxyethyl 
betaine, cetyl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl 
bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)carboxymethyl betaine, stearyl 
bis-(2-hydroxypropyl)carboxymethyl betaine, oleyl dimethyl gamma 
carboxypropyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl)alpha-carboxyethyl 
betaine, and the like. The sulfobetaines are illustrated by 
cocodimethylsulfopropyl betaine, stearyl dimethylsulfopropyl betaine, 
lauryl dimethylsulfoethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)sulfopropyl 
betaine, and the like. Amido betaines and amidosulfobetaines, especially 
those wherein the RCONH(CH.sub.2).sub.3 radical is attached to the 
nitrogen atom of the betaine, are useful in the present invention, for 
example, cocamidopropyl betaine. 
Illustrative amphoteric surfactants which can be used in the compositions 
of the present invention are those which can be broadly defined as 
derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines in which the 
aliphatic radical can be straight chain or branched chain, wherein one of 
the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms 
and one contains an anionic water solubilizing group, e.g., carboxy, 
sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate. Particularly useful 
examples of amphoterics include sodium 3-dodecylaminopropane sulfonate, 
sodium 3-dodecylaminopropionate, disodium cocamphodiproprionate, disodium 
cocamphodiacetate, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkyl-.beta.-imino dipropionates 
and the basic ammonium compounds derived from 2-alkyl-substituted 
imidazoline, e.g., Miranol surfactants, as described in U.S. Pat. No. 
2,528,378. The above-listed amphoterics are not intended to be limiting. 
The compositions of the present invention may also contain additive 
ingredients which improve, for example, the quality and elegance of the 
final products, as set forth below. These additional components are 
present at levels which are effective to provide their intended functions. 
Foam builders or foam stabilizers are materials which increase the quality, 
volume and stability of the lather. They also enhance viscosity. Preferred 
foam builders are fatty acid alkanolamides, such as lauroyl 
diethanolamide, lauroyl monoethanolamide and coconut monoethanolamide. 
Other foam builders are "super" amides, e.g., Super amide B-5, fatty 
alcohols, sarcosinates, phosphates and dodecylbenzene sulfonates. The foam 
builders are typically present in an amount of from about 0.1% to 10%, 
preferably, from about 0.5% to about 5%. 
Opacifying agents are used, for example, in cream compositions. Suitable 
opacifying agents are the higher alcohols, such as stearyl and cetyl 
alcohol, and the higher acids, such as behenic acid. The glycol mono- and 
di-stearates are also effective opacifiers. Alkaline earth metal fatty 
acid soaps, such as calcium stearate and magnesium stearate, are also 
suitable. Magnesium silicates are also useful for this purpose. Opacifying 
agents are typically present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 10%, 
preferably, from about 0.5% to about 5%. 
Viscosity-control agents are often useful to stably regulate the viscosity 
of the ingredients of a shampoo composition. Suitable viscosity-control 
agents are lower alcohols, e.g., isopropyl glycol and butyl alcohol; and 
lower glycols, e.g., diethylene glycol, terpineol and diethyl carbitol. 
These agents are typically present in an amount of from about 0.1%to about 
5%, preferably, from about 0.5% to about 2.5%. 
Sequestering agents are useful to prevent the formation of a lime soap film 
when shampooed hair is rinsed with hard water. Suitable materials are 
ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), citric acid, sodium xylene 
sulfonate and sodium naphthalene sulfonate. Sequestering agents are 
typically present in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 5%, 
preferably, from about 0.1% to about 1%. 
Thickening agents increase the viscosity of a shampoo product. Suitable 
materials are natural gums such as tragacanth, xanthan, acacia and locus 
bean; and synthetic gums such as hydroxypropylcellulose and methyl 
cellulose. Polyvinyl alcohols can also be used. Alkanolamides (e.g., 
cocamide MEA and lauramide DEA), "super" amides and the glycol or glycerol 
stearates may also be used. Thickening agents are present in an amount to 
provide the desired viscosity, typically from about 0.1% to about 10%, 
preferably, from about 0.1% to about 10%. 
Preservatives are typically present to prevent degradation from bacterial 
and mold action. Formaldehyde, methyl, ethyl, propyl and 
butylhydroxybenzoates, dimethyl dimethyl hydantoin, 
methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, 2-phenoxyethanol and 
mixtures thereof are preferred. They are present in compositions an amount 
of from about 0.01 to about 1%. 
Cationic surfactants can also be employed in conjunction with the other 
ingredients, for example, to add conditioning properties to the 
compositions of the present invention. Nonlimiting examples of such 
cationic surfactants are represented by ricinoleamidopropyl ethyldimonium 
ethosulfate; quatemium 75, isostearamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate 
and linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate. Such cationics are 
generally present in the compositions in an amount to perform their 
intended function, i.e., about 0.1% to about 5%. 
The amount of water employed in the formulation of the compositions of the 
present invention is generally the amount necessary to QS to 100%. 
However, it will be appreciated by those having skill in the art that in 
formulating the described compositions, the amount of water may require 
adjustment as necessary to insure that the final composition is stable in 
the sense of its being a homogeneous solution. 
Other additives include antioxidants, such as sodium sulfite; propellants; 
suspending agents; fragrances and herbals; coloring agents; sunscreens; 
and buffering or pH control agents, such as citric acid, each of which is 
present in an amount, usually less than about 5%, effective to provide its 
intended function. An antidandruff component, e.g., selenium sulfide, may 
also be included at an effective level.

EXAMPLES 
The following examples are meant to illustrate and exemplify the various 
aspects of carrying put the present invention and are not intended to 
limit the invention. 
The compositions prepared as shampoos in accordance with the present 
invention were compared with other shampoo formulations having acidic pH 
(e.g., pH between about 5.0 and 6.0) and alkaline pH (e.g., pH between 
about 8.5 and 9.5) in consumer home usage studies. 
Table 2 shows the results of the consumer usage studies in which the 
shampoo formulations as set forth in Examples 1-6 hereinbelow were tested. 
For the consumer usage studies presented in Table 2, all of the test 
samples were placed in coded white plastic bottles and were labeled as 
"Shampoo for fine hair" with simple usage directions. The users in the 
home usage studies had self-perceived fine/very fine hair. They used the 
products as directed for two weeks and then responded to a call-back 
questionnaire. 
It is to be understood that the term "body" as evaluated in the consumer 
usage studies includes both visual and tactile impressions or perceptions 
attributed to the hair by the user. Those skilled in the art will 
appreciate that an increase in hair "body" denotes to the user the overall 
impression or perception of a thicker or fuller feel, and/or 
manageability, and/or a thicker or fuller look to the hair. 
Referring to the consumer usage test data of Table 2, Examples 1-3 are 
commercially available low pH (acidic) shampoo formulations for fine hair. 
They differ slightly in pH (due to normal, batch-to-batch pH variation). 
The Example 1 formulation contains no polymer; the Example 2 formulation 
contains a cationic polymer; and the Example 3 formulation contains a 
nonionic polymer. The consumer use test data show that no real differences 
in bodifying action were perceived between the acidic formulation of 
Example 1 containing no polymer and the acidic formulation of Example 3 
containing a nonionic polymer. 
In addition, a decrease in the overall opinion of the user is seen when the 
acidic formulation without polymer was compared with the acidic 
formulation with cationic polymer (i.e., 50% versus 40%, respectively). 
Examples 4-6 are representative of the high pH (alkaline) shampoos for fine 
hair of the present invention. The formulation of Example 5 contains a 
cationic polymer; the formulation of Example 6 contains a nonionic 
polymer, while 
TABLE 2 
__________________________________________________________________________ 
ACIDIC FORMULATIONS 
ALKALINE FORMULATIONS 
Example 2 
Example 3 Example 5 
Example 6 
Example 1 Cationic Nonionic Example 4 Cationic Nonionic 
No Polymer Polymer Polymer No Polymer Polymer Polymer 
__________________________________________________________________________ 
No. of Consumer Testers 
78 79 122 125 75 75 
Overall Opinion (Excellent/Very 57% 40% 54% 53% 69% 55% 
Good) 
Comparison to Usual Product- 19% 13% 13% 20% 31% 26% 
Much Better Body 
Total Body (Much Better/Better) 47% 27% 45% 44% 56% 50% 
Just Right Body 73% 71% 65% 74% 81% 76% 
Right Amount of Conditioning 57% 58% 60% 57% 66% 69% 
__________________________________________________________________________ 
the formulation of Example 4 contains no polymer. Example 4 was included to 
demonstrate the surprising results obtained when cationic polymer was 
added to the high pH formulation. 
One skilled in the art viewing the data relative to Examples 1, 3 and 4 in 
Table 2 would expect that increasing the pH from an acidic pH to an 
alkalne pH, with or without polymer, would have no real bodifying effect 
on fine hair. Indeed, this is observed when the data obtained from the use 
of Examples 1, 3 and 4 are compared. Also, adding a cationic polymer to 
the acidic shampoo formulation resulted in a decline in bodifying action 
as perceived by the users (compare Example 2 versus Example 1). 
However, the inclusion of a cationic polymer in the alkaline pH 
formulation, as represented by the formulation of Example 5, surprisingly 
and unexpectedly produced a product having attributes favorable to 69% of 
the test population ("overall opinion"), and a particularly high rating 
for bodifying action (i.e., "just right body--81%; "total body"--56%). In 
virtually all of the categories in Table 2, the alkaline formulation 
containing cationic polymer surprisingly surpassed all of the other test 
formulations in achieving a favorable opinion of the perception of 
increased body by the users. These results are particularly surprising and 
unexpected since, prior to the present invention, a cationic polymer at 
alkaline pH was not known to possess any bodifying capabilities. 
The inclusion of a nonionic polymer in the alkaline shampoo formulation 
(Example 6) demonstrated a trend toward an improvement in bodifying action 
and an increase in favorable attributes to the users, compared with the 
alkaline formulation without polymer and with the acidic formulations. 
In sum, the Table 2 data reveal that pH had no real effect on the 
perception of increased body in the formulations without polymer. Cationic 
polymer in a formulation at acidic pH resulted in a general deterioration 
in the perception of increased body. Surprisingly, the formulation at 
alkaline pH containing a cationic polymer resulted in a product with a 
profound increase in the perception of body by the user. Until the present 
invention, it was neither recognized nor appreciated that a cationic 
polymer in an alkaline formulation was stable and caused an increase in 
bodifying action on the hair. 
The acidic and alkaline formulations presented in Examples 1-6 contain an 
anionic/amphoteric surfactant blend that is generally used in compositions 
of this type. In these formulations, the surfactant blend used was the 
same, but the amount of surfactant was varied so that the final product 
was stable in either the acidic or the alkaline pH environment of the 
product. It will be appreciated by those having skill in the art that 
stability of a product is a key criterion to attain prior to the 
initiation of consumer use testing. By stability is meant maintaining a 
homogeneous solution. 
More specifically in this regard, nonionic polymers are not tolerant of 
high surfactant levels due to their competition for free water with 
ethyoxylated surfactant. Thus, the use of lower levels of surfactant was 
necessary to achieve a stable product. Cationic polymers, on the other 
hand, can tolerate higher levels of surfactant in some formulations (e.g., 
acidic), but not in others (e.g., alkaline). 
EXAMPLES 1-3 
Acidic pH Formulations 
The pH of the acidic shampoo formulations presented in Examples 1-3 (and as 
tested in Table 2) was between 5.0 and 6.0, which is typical of 
formulations of this type. Variation is expected on a batch-to-batch basis 
both above and below the expected pH range. The pH of the acidic/no 
polymer formulation of Example 1 was somewhat lower than the typical range 
because it was a production batch that had aged; thus, a slight downward 
trend in pH was both expected and acceptable based on stability data. 
Example 1 
No Polymer, pH 4.74 
______________________________________ 
INGREDIENT (CTFA NAME) 
Wt % 
______________________________________ 
Surfactant blend 60.1 
Citric acid 0.15 
Cocamide MEA 0.5 
Preservative 0.2 
Fragrance 0.75 
Colorant 0.0004 
Deionized (DI) Water 
QS 100 
______________________________________ 
Example 2 
Cationic Polymer, pH 5.50 
______________________________________ 
INGREDIENT (CTFA NAME) 
Wt % 
______________________________________ 
Surfactant blend 60.1 
Citric acid 0.08 
Cocamide MEA 2.0 
Preservative 0.105 
Fragrance 0.75 
Sodium chloride 0.35 
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.15 
DI Water QS 100 
______________________________________ 
Example 3 
Nonionic Polymer, pH 5.60 
______________________________________ 
INGREDIENT (CTFA NAME) 
Wt % 
______________________________________ 
Surfactant blend 47.0 
Citric acid 0.02 
Lauramide DEA 3.00 
Preservative 0.05 
Fragrance 0.85 
PEG-7M 0.30 
DI Water QS 100 
______________________________________ 
EXAMPLES 4-6 
Alkaline pH Formulations 
The alkaline shampoo formulations presented in Examples 4-6 were prepared 
in accordance with the present invention and have a pH between 8.5 and 
9.5. As described above for the acidic formulations, variation is expected 
on a batch-to-batch basis both above and below the expected pH range. 
Example 4 
No Polymer, pH 9.20 
______________________________________ 
INGREDIENT (CTFA NAME) 
Wt % 
______________________________________ 
Surfactant blend 60.1 
Citric acid 0.02 
Lauramide DEA 3.00 
Preservative 0.15 
Fragrance 0.75 
DI Water QS 100 
______________________________________ 
Example 5 
Cationic Polymer, pH 8.75 
______________________________________ 
INGREDIENT (CTFA NAME) 
Wt % 
______________________________________ 
Surfactant blend 47.00 
Citric acid 0.02 
Aminomethyl propanol (AMP) 0.10 
Cocamide MEA 1.30 
Sodium chloride 0.25 
Fragrance 0.75 
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.10 
DI Water QS 100 
______________________________________ 
Example 6 
Nonionic Polymer, pH 8.86 
______________________________________ 
INGREDIENT (CTFA NAME) 
Wt % 
______________________________________ 
Surfactant blend 47.00 
Citric acid 0.02 
Aminomethyl propanol (AMP) 0.10 
Cocamide MEA 1.30 
Sodium chloride 0.25 
Fragrance 0.75 
PEG-7M 0.30 
DI Water QS 100 
______________________________________ 
The contents of all patents, patent applications, published articles, 
books, reference manuals and abstracts cited herein are hereby 
incorporated by reference in their entirety to more fully describe the 
state of the art to which the invention pertains. 
As various changes can be made in the above-described subject matter 
without departing from the scope and spirit of the present invention, it 
is intended that all subject matter contained in the above description, or 
defined in the appended claims, be interpreted as descriptive and 
illustrative of the present invention. Many modifications and variations 
of the present invention are possible in light of the above teachings. It 
is therefore to be understood that within the scope of the appended 
claims, the invention may be practiced otherwise than as specifically 
described.