Method of manufacturing unique jewelry and article formed therefrom

A method of manufacturing jewelry and a chain article formed therefrom which provides an embossed, decorative pattern in either surface of an omega-style chain. A length of wire mesh or woven wire type of "fabric" of a width and length corresponding generally to the proportions of the jewelry chain to be created is provided whereon a series of hollow link sections are received such that the interior surfaces of the links surround the mesh. The links are arranged in end-to-end abutting relationship upon the mesh until the length of chain desired is reached. Upper and lower die members are brought into contact with the preformed chain and forced thereagainst with a magnitude of pressure and for a duration of time sufficient to deform the links and bring the inner surfaces thereof into at least partial engagement with the mesh. The contour of the operating surfaces of the upper and lower dies may be of any desired ornamentation, as the finished chain conforms thereto, and at least one of the working surfaces of the upper and/or lower dies is provided with an ornamenting pattern which forms a corresponding embossed expression in at least part of one surface of the chain.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
1. Field of the Invention 
This invention relates generally to the field of jewelry, and more 
particularly relates to a method for manufacturing an ornamental jewelry 
chain wherein the chain is flexible and also has an embossed, decorative 
pattern formed in at least one surface thereof. 
2. Description of the Prior Art 
The style of jewelry chain to which this invention pertains is commonly 
referred to as "omega." To manufacture an omega-style chain, a flexible 
substrate, such as a woven wire mesh sheet, is provided, over which is 
passed a plurality of independent links in end-to-end abutting relation. 
The thus preformed chain section is placed between the upper and lower 
dies of a press. The links are then generally uniformly pressed onto the 
substrate, causing the links to deflect and come into substantial contact 
with the substrate. The resulting cross sectional shape of the chain is 
dictated by the contour of the upper and lower dies of the press. The 
finished chain remains contiguous, but is flexible due to the fact that 
the links are independent of one another and are supported by the flexible 
mesh substrate. In this manner, very attractive jewelry items have been 
created which appear rigid, but are flexible and thus appealing to the 
wearer and resistant to permanent deformation and disfigurement. 
What has heretofore not been proposed is to provide an embossed, decorative 
pattern in either surface of such omega-style chains. 
It is, therefore, a principal object of this invention to provide 
ornamental, flexible jewelry chain which is both flexible and carries an 
embossed or impressed pattern thereon and which can be made into necklace, 
bracelet or any other chain-type jewelry. 
It is also an object of this invention to provide a method of manufacturing 
the unique jewelry chain disclosed herein which accomplishes the 
aforedescribed objective without adding any additional steps to 
preexisting manufacturing methods. 
It is a still further object of this invention to provide a novel jewelry 
chain which is flexible, yet carries a continuous or discontinuous pattern 
thereon. 
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
The method of the present invention includes initially providing a length 
of wire mesh or woven wire type of "fabric" of a width and length 
corresponding generally to the proportions of the jewelry chain to be 
created. A series of hollow link sections are received upon the mesh such 
that the interior surfaces of the links surround the mesh. The links are 
arranged in end-to-end abutting relationship upon the mesh until the 
length of chain desired is reached. The thus preformed chain is placed 
between upper and lower die members of a press. The upper and lower die 
members are brought into contact with the preformed chain and forced 
thereagainst with a magnitude of pressure and for a duration of time 
sufficient to deform the links and bring the inner surfaces thereof into 
at least partial engagement with the mesh. The contour of the operating 
surfaces of the upper and lower dies may be of any desired ornamentation, 
as the finished chain conforms thereto. At least one of the working 
surfaces of the upper and/or lower dies is provided with an ornamenting 
pattern which forms a corresponding embossed expression in at least part 
of one surface of the chain. 
In one embodiment of the invention to be hereinafter described in greater 
detail, the links are generally rectangularly shaped in cross section and 
are of a width which corresponds generally with the width of the mesh. It 
is important to note, however, that chain of varying width can be 
manufactured, one version of which includes the use of mesh and links 
having a gradually changing width. Naturally, the upper and lower dies 
utilized to create the finished chain are configured to match. 
It is also possible by utilizing the instant invention to create chain 
having various embossed patterns within a single production run by 
providing upper and/or lower die working surfaces which are removable, in 
part or in whole, to interchange the pattern-forming sections thereof. 
The pattern may be created in the working surface(s) of the die(s) by any 
known means, such as electric die making (EDM), laser etching, etc. It has 
been found that the height of the resulting embossed pattern in the 
finished chain is a function of the thickness of the walls of the link 
sections, the depth of the etched pattern in the working surface(s) of the 
die(s), the compression force imposed by the press during manufacture, and 
the height of the inner surface of the link versus the distance the link 
wall is compressed toward the mesh when compressed. Different results can 
be obtained by varying any of these parameters, any combination of which 
is contemplated to be within the scope of the invention. Other parameters 
which will occur to the skilled artisan are likewise contemplated to fall 
within the scope of my invention. 
It can thus be readily seen that the method of manufacturing jewelry chain 
of the type described herein imparts a three-dimensional design or 
embossed pattern into a product at the same time as it is assembled, such 
that no additional working steps are required. A completed product, ready 
for traditional finishing procedures (e.g.: clasp installed, chain 
limbering, heat treating, and polishing), results. 
The link segments may be in the form of box-like segments formed through a 
separate manufacturing process, or may be formed over the mesh from flat 
or staple-shaped links which are wrapped around the mesh in a pre-pressing 
step or during the actual creation of the chain with the embossed pattern 
thereon. In addition, it has been found to be desirable to first press the 
links into contact with the mesh, with perhaps a lighter pressing force 
than what is to be used in a final pressing step, so as to secure the 
links preliminarily to the mesh. This facilitates easier manipulation of 
the chain before final pressing/assembly, wherein the links can be fit 
accurately together and the chain can be cleaned prior to the final 
pressing step. In this way, a continuous, clear, embossed pattern can be 
accurately imparted to the chain, creating a highly attractive and 
desirable finished product. 
Pressing may be carried out by stamping, rolling, or any other suitable 
means.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS 
Referring initially to FIG. 1, a flexible jewelry chain product 10 is shown 
in finished form. The product, which by way of example is in the form of a 
bracelet (but could alternatively be in the form of any chain-type 
structure such as the necklace shown in FIG. 7), is a flexible chain 
comprised of a series of link segments S arranged in end-to-end engagement 
in surrounding relationship about a substrate, which in the preferred 
embodiment is a flexible mesh 20 made up of gold wire mesh or woven or 
linked gold wire as best shown in FIG. 2. Additionally, the jewelry item 
10 is provided with an embossed pattern P on its outer surface, which may 
or may not be continuous along the entire chain. A standard clasping 
arrangement C may be utilized, examples of which are shown in FIGS. 1 and 
7. 
FIGS. 2 and 3 illustrate the step in the process of the instant invention 
wherein a series of independently formed and carried link segments S are 
placed upon mesh 20 such that the first such segment S' abuts female clasp 
element C'. It should be noted that the link segments S need not 
necessarily be rectangular in elevational projection, but may be of any 
desired shape to achieve the result of the instant invention. For example, 
but not by way of limitation, the necklace-type chain 100 of FIG. 6A 
utilizes link segments of varying heights. 
Once the link segments S are arranged upon mesh 20, resulting in a 
preformed chain 20' shown in FIGS. 3 and 4A, the preformed chain 20' is 
placed between upper die member 12 and lower die member 14. Upper die 
member 12 is provided with a convex pressing surface 16 which is utilized 
to create the inner or skin-facing surface of bracelet 10, while concave 
pressing surface 18 formed within lower die member 14 is adapted to form 
the outer-facing surface of bracelet 10. 
Importantly, a pattern E is provided within lower die pressing surface 18 
as shown in FIGS. 4A and 10. Pattern E is engraved into surface 18 and 
results in the raised or embossed pattern P in the final product-after 
upper and lower die members 12, 14, respectively, are brought into 
pressing engagement against preformed chain segment 20' by any 
conventional press (not shown), as best seen in FIGS. 4B and 4C. 
Other ornamental chain segments can be formed utilizing this process, such 
as necklace 60 shown in FIGS. 5 and 6A-C. It is to be appreciated that the 
relative configuration and orientation of the link segments will be varied 
depending upon the particular type of product being produced. For example, 
the link segments S shown in FIGS. 1-4C result in a bracelet 10 which 
stands on its edge when arranged in its circular in-use configuration 
shown in FIG. 1. In order to result in a jewelry item such as necklace 60 
shown in FIG. 5, which lays generally flat when placed on a horizontal 
surface or when worn, it is necessary that the link segments T be shaped 
and arranged about mesh 20 accordingly. 
Referring now to FIGS. 5 through 6C, the manufacture of a necklace in 
accordance with my invention is shown. As with the formation of a bracelet 
or similar chain, my necklace is formed by placing or passing appropriate 
link segments T about a gold wire mesh or woven or linked gold wire 70 and 
placing the preformed chain between upper and lower die members 62, 64, 
respectively. Lower die member 64 is provided with a pattern-forming 
channel 68 in the shape of one surface of the chain to be created. In 
keeping with the spirit of my invention, a decorative pattern F is 
engraved in channel 68 which results in a corresponding embossed 
decorative pattern Q associated with chain 70 after the pressing 
operations shown in FIGS. 6B and 6C are completed. 
To assist in the manufacturing process, it may be desirable to string the 
link segments or otherwise place them about the mesh, cut the 
thus-preformed chain to the desired length, and temporarily solder the 
ends to retain the link segments about the mesh while the rest of the 
assembly process is carried out. Alternatively, or in addition thereto, a 
pre-stamping step may be included wherein, after the links are strung upon 
or placed about the mesh, the preformed chain is subjected to a first 
pressing, sufficient to engage the inner surfaces of the link segments 
against the mesh so as to generally position the links thereabout. This 
permits for the final adjustment of the spacing of the links, which 
preferably should be flush against each other in end-to-end engagement, 
and permits the assembler to clean the chain prior to final pressing. 
Cleaning of the preformed chain just prior to final pressing virtually 
eliminates the risk that the embossed pattern will be marred or otherwise 
affected during final pressing by dirt or other contaminants on the 
preformed chain. After the cleaning and alignment operation is carried 
out, final pressing can be performed. It should be noted that, in the 
preferred embodiment, the embossed pattern is not imparted to the chain 
during the pre-pressing operation, but is applied during final pressing. 
However, the embossed pattern could be applied in the pre-stamping stage 
and not in the final stage, or applied both during pre-stamping and then 
again or further in the final pressing stage. 
Referring now to FIGS. 8 and 9, lower die members 14 and 64 may be provided 
with removable embossed pattern-forming plugs 80 and 90, respectively, 
such that one need not create entirely new die members to change the 
pattern embossed into decorative jewelry chain when changing from one 
pattern to another. It can readily be appreciated that substantial cost 
savings of manufacturing chain can be realized by the provision of 
removable plugs 80, 90, such that an entire set of such plugs with 
different patterns on each plug can be utilized. Plugs 80 and 90 fit into 
corresponding plug recesses 82, 92, respectively, in lower die members 14, 
64. Lower die member 14 is utilized to make straight chain, such as for a 
bracelet, while lower die member 64 is used to manufacture curved chain, 
as in the case of a necklace. It is to be understood that the particular 
shape of the die or of the pattern-forming recesses 18, 68 shown in the 
drawings are by way of example only, and any desirable configuration 
and/or contour which may occur to a skilled artisan or to the lay person 
is contemplated. Likewise, the patterns E or F which are engraved into 
lower die members 14, 64, respectively, can take any form without 
limitation. Also, multiple plugs may be used simultaneously in a single 
die member or in both upper and lower die members as desired. 
A force of 800 Bar (11,760 psi) has been utilized in manufacturing the 
necklace shown in FIG. 5, while a force of 400 Bar (5,880 psi) has been 
utilized in manufacturing the bracelet shown in FIG. 1. It is to be 
understood, however, that these values may be varied within ranges which 
would occur to one skilled in the art. The height of the embossed pattern 
P relative to the remainder of the outer surface 22 of chain 10 is 
primarily dependent upon the depth of the engraved pattern E in lower die 
member 14 and the distance which the link segments S are deflected during 
the pressing step shown in FIG. 4B from their original configuration shown 
in FIG. 2. The deflection distance is, in turn, dependent in part upon the 
force applied by the press, as well as the spacing of chain-forming 
members 16 and 18 throughout the process. The same applies to the 
manufacture of other chain, such as the necklace shown in FIG. 5 utilizing 
the structure and methods of use thereof shown in FIGS. 6 through 9. 
As shown in FIG. 11, the link segments 100 may be in the form of incomplete 
boxes, i.e., with only partial backs, which are pressed upon the mesh 120 
in a staple-like fashion. Utilizing link segments of this type permits for 
the use of less precious metal and, hence, a lower weight and cost of the 
resultant article. The preformed chain utilizing such staple-like links 
100 can be pre-aligned, cleaned, and stamped such that an embossed pattern 
(not shown) is imparted in the finished product similarly to the process 
and resultant articles shown in the previous drawing Figures. Utilizing 
links of this type results in the mesh 120 being exposed on the interior, 
i.e., skin-facing side. 
It is also possible to vary my invention by utilizing link segments 140, 
shown in FIG. 12, which are wrapped around the mesh either by hand or a 
machine during the pre-forming stage instead of utilizing finished links 
S, which are more costly to pre-manufacture. In this alternative 
embodiment, the flat or C-shaped preformed link segments 140 are wrapped 
about the mesh so as to be generally snug thereto. Thereafter, the 
intermediate fitting and cleaning can be carried out, after which the 
final stamping, including the embossment of the article, is performed. 
After the embossing is completed, the chain may need to be limbered, such 
as by heat treating and/or mechanical manipulation. 
The instant invention has been shown and described herein in what is 
considered to be the most practical and preferred embodiment. It is 
recognized, however, that departures may be made therefrom within the 
scope of the invention and that obvious modifications will occur to a 
person skilled in the art.