Cosmetic preparation for the care of the hair and use of the said composition

Cosmetic composition for the care of the hair containing an aqueous dispersion phase, comprising at least one ionic or nonionic amphiphilic lipid associated with at least one stabilising additive and at least one natural or synthetic essential oil. The essential oil represents 0.2 to 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition and the ratio by weight of the lipidic phase to the essential oil(s) is between 0.3 and 10.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the care of the 
hair and the use of the said composition as a product to be rinsed out or 
a product which is not to be rinsed out. 
It is known that certain amphiphilic lipids are apt to form, in the 
presence of an aqueous phase, a lamellar phase and then, by agitation, 
vesicles in dispersion in the said aqueous phase. The vesicles obtained 
are formed from one or, more often, several concentric layers 
(bi-molecular or multimolecular layers) of lipids encapsulating an aqueous 
phase. The amphiphilic lipids used can be ionic or nonionic. Such 
dispersions of vesicles, as well as certain methods of preparing them are 
described for example in French Patent No. 2 315 991. It has been proposed 
to use these aqueous dispersions of vesicles of amphiphilic lipids for the 
treatment of the hair, but these compositions do not make it possible to 
give the hair a satisfactory smoothness. 
It is also known from French Patents Nos. 2 485 921 and 2 490 504 that the 
vesicles of amphiphilic lipids stabilize in the aqueous phase dispersions 
of lipids which are not miscible in water, particularly vegetable oils, 
without it being necessary to add an emulsifying agent. However, the 
cosmetic compositions obtained with the vegetable oils for the care of the 
hair have a tendency to soften the hair and make it heavy and it is 
impossible consequently to obtain a hairstyle which has hold and volume. 
The present invention relates to a composition which makes it possible to 
remedy the aforementioned drawbacks. 
The present invention has as its object a cosmetic preparation for the care 
of the hair, characterized in that it contains in an aqueous phase in 
continuous dispersion possibly including at least one cosmetically 
acceptable additive: 
a) vesicles prepared from a lipidic phase including at least one 
amphiphilic lipid which is ionic or non-ionic and is possibly associated 
with at least one stabilizing additive, the said vesicles containing an 
encapsulated aqueous phase; and 
b) at least one natural or synthetic essential oil in the form of droplets 
dispersed in the aqueous dispersion phase, the said essential oil(s) being 
present in a ratio of 0.2 to 20% by weight with respect to the total 
weight of the composition and the ratio by weight of the lipidic phase to 
the essential oil(s) being between 0.3 and 10 and preferably between 0.3 
and 5. 
According to the present invention, it has been found that the compositions 
according to the invention containing vesicles of amphiphilic lipids and 
at least one essential oil make the hair smoother and shinier than the 
compositions which do not contain vesicles of amphiphilic lipids and that 
the application of these compositions on clean hair, damp or dry, gives a 
treated effect to the hair without detracting from the lightness nor the 
shine of a natural hairstyle, which is not the case with the previously 
described compositions incorporating a combination of vesicles and a 
vegetable oil which weigh down the hairs and make the style heavy. 
The amphiphilic lipids which are capable of forming vesicles are ionic or 
nonionic lipids. Among the ionic lipids which can be used may be mentioned 
the natural phospholipids such as lecithin from egg, soya lecithin or 
sphingomyelin, and the synthetic phospholipids such as 
dipalmitoyl-phosphatidylcholine or hydrogenated lecithin. 
The amphiphilic lipid is preferably a non-ionic lipid and is more 
preferably constituted by a linear or branched derivative of polyglycerol 
of formula (I): 
##STR1## 
in which --C.sub.3 H.sub.5 (OH)-- represents the following structures in a 
mixture or separately: 
##STR2## 
n is a mean statistical value between 2 and 6 and R is: 
a) either an aliphatic chain R.sub.1 or an R.sub.2 CO radical, R.sub.1 
being a linear or branched C.sub.12 -C.sub.18 aliphatic radical and 
R.sub.2 being a linear or branched C.sub.11 -C.sub.17 aliphatic radical; 
b) or R.sub.3 O--C.sub.2 H.sub.3 (R.sub.4) where O--C.sub.2 H.sub.3 
(R.sub.4)-- represents the following structures in a mixture or 
separately: 
##STR3## 
R.sub.3 being an R.sub.1 or R.sub.2 CO radical; R.sub.4 being an R.sub.1 
radical; and 
R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 having the meanings given above. 
According to the invention a mixture of ionic and non-ionic lipids could be 
used. 
It is also possible, apart from the ionic and/or nonionic amphiphilic 
lipids described above, to add mixtures consisting in particular of 
sphingomyelins, cerebrosides, sterols, phosphatidylcholine, 
phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylethanolamine and glycolipids. 
The stabilizing additive is intended in a known manner to modify the 
permeability and/or the surface charge of the vesicles. It is preferably 
chosen from amongst the group formed by sterols and anionic stabilisers. 
The sterol is advantageously cholesterol. The anionic stabilizer is 
advantageously chosen on the one hand from amongst the monosodium or 
disodium salts of acylglutamates, the acyl radical having from 14 to 22 C 
atoms, such as the monosodium salt of stearoylglutamate and the disodium 
salts with acyl radicals of copra and of tallow or stearoyl and cocoyl 
radicals, and on the other hand from amongst the phosphoric esters of 
fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 C atoms. In a known manner it is possible 
to add sterol and an anionic stabilizer at the same time to the 
amphiphilic lipid(s). 
The vesicles advantageously have a mean dimension between 10 and 1000 nm. 
The lipidic phase preferably represents 0.1 to 8% and more preferably 0.25 
to 3% of the total weight of the composition; the ionic and/or nonionic 
amphiphilic lipid(s) preferably represent(s) 0.1 to 6% and more preferably 
0.1 to 2.5% of the total weight of the composition; and the stabilizing 
additive advantageously represents less than 8% of the total weight of the 
composition and preferably 0.1 to 8% of this weight. 
The natural essential oils are products obtained from starting materials of 
vegetable origin (leaves, stems, flowers, branches of plants and/or entire 
plants) either by distillation in water vapor, dry or moist, or by 
mechanical processes, either by distillation to dryness, or by extraction 
by means of a volatile solvent (see the standard NP-T-75006). The 
essential oils are distinguished from vegetable oils by the fact that they 
cannot be decomposed by saponification in glycerol and fatty acid soap. 
According to the present invention, the essential oil can be advantageously 
chosen from amongst the oils of eucalyptus, lavandin, lavender, vetiver, 
litsea cubeba, lemon, sandalwood, red or white thyme, rosemary, camomile, 
savory, nutmeg, cinnamon, hyssop, caraway and orange, clove, mint, rose 
and parsley seeds. 
The droplets of essential oil(s) advantageously have a mean dimension 
between 100 and 10000 nm. 
The principal function of the essential oils is to improve the smoothness, 
the appearance and the style of the hair. However, certain essential oils 
also have an anti-dandruff effect, action to prevent dropping of the hairs 
and/or anti-parasite action, particularly against lice; other oils, taken 
in isolation or in a mixture, have a relaxing or stimulating action. 
According to the present application, the encapsulated aqueous phase and/or 
the lipidic phase of the vesicles can contain substances which are 
cosmetically and/or pharmaceutically active and which can in particular 
have the effect of further increasing the known activity of the essential 
oil. These agents are, for example, agents to prevent dropping of the 
hair, amongst which may be cited methyl nicotinate, or anti-dandruff 
agents such as the salt of 
1-hydroxy-4-methyl-(2,4,4-trimethyl)-6-pentyl-1H-2-pyridinone 
ethanolamine. 
The dispersion phase of the composition according to the invention can 
contain at least one thickening agent to facilitate the application and 
the localization of the compositions on the hair. Amongst the thickening 
agents which can be used may be cited cellulose derivatives, xanthan gum, 
and more particularly reticulated polyacrylic acids such as those sold 
under the brand name "CARBOPOL" (for example "CARBOPOL 934" and "CARBOPOL 
940") by GOODRICH. 
According to the invention the aqueous dispersion phase can also contain 
well known cosmetically acceptable additives such as preservatives, 
perfumes, acidifying agents, alkalinizing agents, stabilizers, colorants 
and sun filters. 
The compositions according to the invention can be used in the form of 
products to be rinsed out to be applied after shampooing, after coloring 
or bleaching, after a perm or straightening; in this case the content of 
essential oil(s) in the composition is preferably between 3 and 20% by 
weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. The 
compositions according to the invention can also be used in the form of 
products which are not to be rinsed out, for example before a set, 
brushing or finishing the styling; in this case the content of essential 
oil(s) is preferably between 0.2 and 3% by weight with respect to the 
total weight of the composition. 
The compositions according to the invention are presented in the form of 
more or less thickened liquids, gels, creams or aerosols.

The examples given below, which are purely by way of illustration and are 
not limiting, will permit better understanding of the invention. 
EXAMPLE 1 
Comparative 
I) Preparation of the Compositions Tested 
A) Preparation of a composition A according to the invention 
In a first stage, a mixture of 0.375 g of nonionic lipids of formula: 
##STR4## 
is melted whilst stirring gently at a temperature of 80.degree.-90.degree. 
C., and in this formula: 
--C.sub.3 H.sub.5 (OH)O-- is constituted by a mixture of radicals: 
##STR5## 
--O--C.sub.2 H.sub.3 (R.sub.4)-- is constituted by a mixture of radicals: 
##STR6## 
n=6; R.sub.4 is a mixture of C.sub.14 H.sub.29 and C.sub.16 H.sub.33 
radicals with 0.1 g of Sphingoceryl, which is a mixture sold under this 
name by "les Laboratories Seriobiologiques de Nancy", which contains 
sphingomyelins, cerebrosides, sterols, phosphatidylcholine, 
phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylethanolamine and glycolipids. 
0.95 g of water brought to 90.degree. C., containing a preservative, is 
introduced into the melted mixture and this is mixed for about 6 to 8 
minutes by means of an "ULTRA TURRAX" agitator. 1.43 g of water at ambient 
temperature is added to the phase thus obtained, then the mixture is 
homogenized in the "ULTRA TURRAX" for about another 8 minutes before 
leaving the mixture to return to ambient temperature. A dispersion of 
vesicles in an aqueous phase is obtained in this way. 
In a second stage, 0.375 g of essential eucalyptus oil is added drop by 
drop to the aqueous phase whilst agitating in the "ULTRA TURRAX". Then a 
well homogenized aqueous gel consisting of 0.25 g of thickening agent sold 
under the brand name "CARBOPOL 934" by GOODRICH, dissolved in 5 g of water 
containing preservatives is added and adjusted to pH 7 with 
2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol and brought to 100 g with water. 
B) Preparation of a composition B which does not conform to the invention 
A preparation B was prepared which is identical to that described under A 
but without the addition of essential oil in the second stage. 
C) Preparation of a composition C which does not conform to the invention 
A preparation C was also prepared which is identical to that described 
under A except that the essential eucalyptus oil is replaced by colza oil. 
II) Comparative Tests 
Tests were first of all carried out on a lock of 5 g by applying 0.5 g of 
composition A to damp and partially dried locks and 0.5 g of composition B 
to damp locks and then drying for 15 minutes at 60.degree. C. A tactile 
evaluation was then carried out with a panel of nine testers. Nine testers 
out of nine found the locks treated with composition A softer. 
Comparative tests were also carried out applying compositions A and C. The 
tests were carried out on the head by applying 2 g of composition A to the 
dry hair on one half of the head and 2 g of composition B to the dry hair 
of the other half of the head of a model. 
The nine testers declared unanimously that for the 10 models tested they 
preferred the hair treated with composition A for lightness, shine and for 
the natural appearance of the hairstyle. 
EXAMPLE 2 
In a first stage, a mixture of 0.705 g of nonionic lipids of formula: 
##STR7## 
is melted whilst stirring at a temperature of 80.degree.-90.degree. C., in 
which formula --OC.sub.3 H.sub.5 (OH) is constituted by a mixture of 
radicals 
##STR8## 
and n is a mean statistical value equal to 3, with 0.705 g of cholesterol 
and 0.09 g of the monosodium glutamate salt of formula: 
##STR9## 
in which R is a mixture of C.sub.13 -C.sub.21 alkenyl and/or alkyl 
radicals derived from the fatty acids of tallow, sold under the brand name 
"ACYLGLUTAMATE HS 11" by AJINOMOTO. 
3 g of water brought to 90.degree. C., containing a preservative, is 
introduced into the melted mixture, and mixing is carried out for about 6 
to 8 minutes by means of an "ULTRA TURRAX" agitator. 4.5 g of water at 
ambient temperature is added to the phase thus obtained, then the mixture 
is homogenized in the "ULTRA TURRAX" for a further 8 minutes before being 
left to return to ambient temperature. In this way a dispersion of 
vesicles in an aqueous phase is obtained. 
In a second stage, 1.5 g of a mixture of essential oils (lemon: more than 
20%; lavender and sandalwood: from 5 to 20%; white thyme: up to 1%) 
(proportions by weight) sold under the brand name "COCKTAIL B (HGB 18)" by 
CHARABOT is added drop by drop whilst agitating in the "ULTRA TURRAX". 
Then a well homogenized aqueous gel consisting of 0.5 g of a thickening 
agent sold under the brand name "CARBOPOL 934" by GOODRICH, dissolved in 
10 g of water containing preservatives and colorants, is added; the pH is 
adjusted to 7 with 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol and the mixture is made up 
to 100 g with water. 
This composition is applied in a quantity of about 4 to 5 g to the head on 
hair which has been washed and partly dried. This care composition has an 
anti-dandruff action and makes it possible to obtain hair which is soft to 
the touch, light and shiny, with a natural style. 
EXAMPLE 3 
In a first stage, a mixture of 1.06 g of nonionic amphiphilic lipids of 
formula: 
##STR10## 
is melted whilst stirring at a temperature of 80.degree.-90.degree. C., 
with 1.06 g of cholesterol and 0.14 g of the monosodium glutamate salt of 
formula: 
##STR11## 
in which R is a mixture of C.sub.13 -C.sub.21 alkenyl and/or alkyl 
radicals derived from the fatty acids of tallow, sold under the brand name 
"ACYLGLUTAMATE HS 11" by AJINOMOTO, and 0.6 g of sphingoceryl. 
5.72 g of water brought to 90.degree. C., containing a preservative, is 
introduced into the melted mixture, and mixing is carried out for about 6 
to 8 minutes by means of an "ULTRA TURRAX" agitator. 8.58 g of water at 
ambient temperature is added to the phase thus obtained, then the mixture 
is homogenized in the "ULTRA TURRAX" for a further 8 minutes before being 
left to return to ambient temperature. In this way a dispersion of 
vesicles in an aqueous phase is obtained. 
In a second stage, 2.25 g of a mixture of essential oils (lemon: more than 
20%; lavender: more than 20%; hyssop: 1 to 5%; thyme: from 1 to 5%; 
nutmeg: 1 to 5%) (proportions by weight), this mixture being sold under 
the brand name "COCKTAIL A (OR 12504)" by MANE, is added drop by drop 
whilst agitating in the "ULTRA TURRAX". Then a well homogenized aqueous 
gel consisting of 0.5 g of a thickening agent sold under the brand name 
"CARBOPOL 934" by GOODRICH, dissolved in 10 g of water containing 
preservatives and colorants, is added; the pH is adjusted to 7 with 
2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol and the mixture is made up to 100 g with 
water. 
This composition which has, incidentally, an effect of preventing dropping 
of hair, provides the same cosmetic effects as the composition of example 
2. 
EXAMPLE 4 
In a first stage, a mixture of 0.025 g of nonionic amphiphilic lipids of 
formula: 
##STR12## 
is melted whilst stirring gently at a temperature of 80.degree.-90.degree. 
C. with 0.225 g of cholesterol and 0.025 g of the monosodium glutamate 
salt of formula: 
in which R is a mixture of C.sub.13 -C.sub.21 alkenyl and/or alkyl radicals 
derived from the fatty acids of tallow, sold under the brand name 
"ACYLGLUTAMATE HS 11" by AJINOMOTO. 
0.95 g of water brought to 90.degree. C., containing a preservative, is 
introduced into the melted mixture, and mixing is carried out for about 6 
to 8 minutes by means of an "ULTRA TURRAX" agitator. 1.43 g of water at 
ambient temperature are added to the phase thus obtained, then the mixture 
is homogenized in the "ULTRA TURRAX" for a further 8 minutes before being 
left to return to ambient temperature. In this way a dispersion of 
vesicles in an aqueous phase is obtained. 
In a second stage, 0.375 g of essential eucalyptus oil is added drop by 
drop whilst agitating in the "ULTRA TURRAX". Then a well homogenized 
aqueous gel consisting of 0.25 g of a thickening agent sold under the 
brand name "CARBOPOL 934" by GOODRICH, dissolved in 5 g of water 
containing preservatives and colorants, is added; the pH is adjusted to 7 
with 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol and the mixture is made up to 100 g with 
water. 
This care composition provides the same cosmetic effects as the composition 
of example 2, that is to say the hair is soft to the touch, light and 
shiny, with a natural appearance. 
EXAMPLE 5 
In a first stage 0.5 g of soya lecithin is melted whilst stirring gently at 
a temperature of 60.degree. C. to 75% of phosphatidylcholine sold by 
SEPPIC under the brand name "LIPOID S75". 
0.96 g of water brought to 80.degree. C., containing a preservative, is 
introduced into the melted mixture, and mixing is carried out for about 5 
minutes by means of an "ULTRA TURRAX" agitator, then the mixture is left 
to swell for one hour. 1.44 g of water at 20.degree. C. are added to the 
phase thus obtained; the the mixture is agitated for several minutes with 
the aid of the same agitator. It is completed by 0.7 g of water at 
20.degree. C. whilst agitating in the "ULTRA TURRAX". 
In this way a dispersion of vesicles in an aqueous phase is obtained. 
In a second stage, 0.4 g of a mixture of essential oils sold by MANE under 
the brand name "COCKTAIL C (OR 12509)" is added drop by drop whilst 
agitating in the "ULTRA TURRAX"; this mixture of essential oils is defined 
as follows (by weight): 
______________________________________ 
lemon more than 20% 
clove 1 to 5% 
mint 1 to 5% 
rose 1 to 5% 
lavender 5 to 20% 
______________________________________ 
Then a well homogenized aqueous gel consisting of 0.5 g of a thickening 
agent sold under the brand name "CARBOPOL 934" by GOODRICH, dissolved in 
10 g of alcohol at 96.degree. containing preservatives and colorants, is 
added; the pH is adjusted to 7 with 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol and the 
mixture is made up to 100 g with water. 
This composition is applied in a quantity of about 4 to 5 g to the head on 
hair which has been washed and partly dried. This composition, which 
incidentally has a relaxing action, provides the same cosmetic effects as 
the composition of example 2. 
EXAMPLE 6 
In a first stage, 0.4 g of polyoxyethylene phytosterol is melted whilst 
stirring gently at 85.degree. C. with 5 mole ethylene oxide 4 sold by 
HENKEL under the brand name "GENEROL 122E 5", then to the melted mixture 
is added 0.6 g of hydrogenated lecithin to 30-35% hydrogenated 
phosphatidyloholine sold by NIKKO under the brand name "LECINOL S 10" 
until perfect homogenization is achieved (5 minutes). 
3 g of water brought to 80.degree. C., containing a preservative, is 
introduced into the melted mixture, and mixing is carried out for about 5 
minutes by means of an "ULTRA TURRAX" agitator, then the mixture is left 
to swell for one hour. 4.5 g of water at 20.degree. C. are added to the 
phase thus obtained; the the mixture is again agitated for several minutes 
with the aid of the same agitator. In this way a dispersion of vehicles in 
an aqueous phase is obtained. 
In a second stage, 0.5 g of a mixture of essential oils sold by ROBERTET 
under the brand name "COCKTAIL F (8388)" is added drop by drop whilst 
agitating in the "ULTRA TURRAX"; this mixture of essential oils is defined 
as follows (by weight): 
______________________________________ 
lavender more than 75% 
Morocco camomile 
1 to 5% 
Florida orange 1 to 5% 
parsley seeds 1 to 5% 
rose 5 to 20% 
______________________________________ 
Then a well homogenized aqueous gel consisting of 0.5 g of a thickening 
agent sold under the brand name "CARBOPOL 934" by GOODRICH, dissolved in 
10 g of alcohol at 96.degree. containing preservatives and colorants, is 
added; the pH is adjusted to 7 with 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol and the 
mixture is made up to 100 g with water. 
This composition is applied in a quantity of about 4 to 5 g to the head on 
hair which has been washed and partly dried. This composition, which 
incidentally has a relaxing action, provides the same cosmetic effects as 
the composition of example 2.