Cosmetic compositions and their use in obtaining a glossy film

A composition, particularly a lipstick composition or a composition to be applied to the lips, comprising at least one aromatic ester and at least one polymer comprising a --C(CH.sub.3).sub.2 --CH.sub.2 !-- unit, wherein said composition obtains a glossy film and can also be used in other compositions to obtain a glossy film.

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic 
composition, capable of being applied on the skin and/or on the mucous 
membranes, and in particular on the lips of the face. 
Lipstick compositions generally comprise fatty substances, such as oils and 
waxes, and pigments. They may make it possible to obtain a matte or glossy 
film, depending in particular on the nature and/or proportions of the 
various constituents. 
Thus, it is known that a good dispersion of the pigments and/or fillers in 
the compositions makes it possible to improve the gloss of the film. 
It is also known that it is possible to improve the quality of the gloss of 
a lipstick film, for example by increasing, in the composition, the 
proportion of fatty phase, in particular oily phase, with respect to the 
pigmentary phase. 
Moreover, certain oily compounds make it possible to obtain appropriate 
gloss characteristics; this is the case, in particular, with compounds 
capable of reflecting light and having a high refractive index, such as 
certain oily fatty substances. Preference is given, among the latter, to 
those having a low penetrating or absorbing power with respect to the 
skin, such as oily polymers. 
These compounds are particularly advantageous because they also make it 
possible to improve the persistence and the hold of the film. Indeed, it 
is known that the gloss of a film has a tendency to decrease with time, in 
particular because of the possible poor hold of the film on the substrate, 
its wearing away or its migration into the fine lines of the skin or 
alternatively its transfer to other substrates. 
However, it has been found that the presence in the composition, of a high 
percentage of these oily polymers brings about a decline in the cosmetic 
properties of the composition. A decline in the slippery nature of the 
composition during application is thus found, resulting in a spreading on 
the skin, which is undesirable. An increase in the sticky nature of the 
composition is also found after application, resulting in a degree of 
discomfort on the lips, as well as an inappropriate aesthetic quality. 
The aim of the present invention is to provide a composition which makes it 
possible to obtain a film having good gloss after application on the 
substrate, while retaining appropriate cosmetic properties. 
A subject of the present invention is a composition comprising, in an oily 
phase, the combination of at least one aromatic ester with at least one 
polymer comprising a --C(CH.sub.3).sub.2 --CH.sub.2 !-- unit, the oily 
phase having a refractive index ranging from approximately 1.4750 to 
1.5050. 
Another subject is a composition comprising the combination of at least one 
aromatic ester with at least one polymer comprising a --C(CH.sub.3).sub.2 
--CH.sub.2 !-- unit which makes it possible to obtain a film having a 
gloss ranging from approximately 200 to 600. 
Another subject of the invention is the use of the combination of at least 
one aromatic ester with at least one polymer comprising a 
--C(CH.sub.3).sub.2 --CH.sub.2 !-- unit in or for obtaining a composition 
which makes it possible to obtain a glossy film. 
A further subject of the invention is the use of the combination of at 
least one aromatic ester with at least one polymer comprising a 
--C(CH.sub.3).sub.2 --CH.sub.2 !-- unit in or for obtaining a composition 
comprising an oily phase having a refractive index ranging from 
approximately 1.4750 to 1.5050. 
"Glossy film" is understood to mean, in the present description, a film 
exhibiting a measurement of gloss preferably of the order from 200 to 600, 
more preferably from 300 to 500. The method of measuring the gloss is 
described immediately before the examples. 
The inventor has surprisingly found that the fact of incorporating at least 
one polymer comprising a --C(CH.sub.3).sub.2 --CH.sub.2 !-- unit in 
combination with at least one aromatic ester made possible a composition 
which exhibits in particular good cosmetic properties, such as appropriate 
slipperiness, spreading, hold and stickiness, with respect to the 
compositions of the prior art which comprise solely oily polymers. 
Moreover, it has been found that the specific esters selected in the 
context of the present invention, namely aromatic esters, also make it 
possible to improve the gloss of the film, because of the fact that they 
also possess, in most cases, a high refractive index. 
The composition according to the invention thus comprises at least one 
aromatic ester and at least one polymer comprising a --C(CH.sub.3).sub.2 
--CH.sub.2 !-- unit, which can represent all or only part of the oily 
phase of the composition, the oily phase moreover having to have a 
refractive index ranging from approximately 1.4750 to 1.5050. 
As is known according to the state of the art, the change in direction of a 
light beam passing from one medium to another is related to the refractive 
indices of each of the media. 
The refractive index of the oily phase according to the invention 
preferably ranges from 1.4750 to 1.5050, measured at room temperature 
(20-25.degree. C.), for example, using a refractometer. The refractive 
index of the oily phase according to the invention more preferably ranges 
from 1.4800 to 1.500. 
Mention may be made, among the aromatic esters capable of being used in the 
context of the present invention, of, alone or as a mixture, monoesters 
and polyesters of acids possessing an aromatic group with saturated or 
unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. 
It is also possible to employ esters of fatty acids, for example having 
from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, with alcohols having an aromatic group. 
Mention may be made, in particular of monoesters of benzoic acid and 
polyesters of trimellitic acid with saturated or unsaturated, linear or 
branched alcohols having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms. 
Mention may in particular be made of alkyl benzoates in which the alkyl 
group contains from 12 to 15 carbon atoms, isostearyl or octyldodecyl 
benzoates or alternatively benzyl laurate. 
The aromatic esters according to the invention are preferably provided in 
the form of an oily liquid, or optionally, in pasty form, at room 
temperature. 
The polymers having a --C(CH.sub.3).sub.2 --CH.sub.2 !-- unit according to 
the invention are known under the CTFA name of polybutene or 
polyisobutene. They preferably have an average molecular weight ranging 
from 500 to 50,000, and more preferably from 800 to 10,000. They can thus 
be presented in a liquid or pasty form. 
In the context of the invention, a single polymer or a mixture of these 
polymers may be used. 
Mention may be made, among the commercial polymers which come within the 
scope of the invention, of INDOPOL H100, INDOPOL H300 and INDOPOL H1500, 
from the company Amoco, and PERMETHYL 104A from the company Presperse, 
Inc. 
The nature and/or amounts of aromatic esters and/or of polymers comprising 
a --C(CH.sub.3).sub.2 --CH.sub.2 !-- unit can be selected by the person 
skilled in the art, on the basis of his or her general knowledge, so as to 
obtain an (ester+polymer) mixture with a measurable refractive index. In 
particular, the mixture is preferably provided in the form of a clear and 
liquid mixture, for example having a dynamic viscosity at 25.degree. C. of 
from 3 to 6 Pa.s., measured with a Contraves TV rotary viscometer equipped 
with an "MS-r4" rotor at a speed of 60 Hz, and a refractive index ranging 
from approximately 1.4750 to 1.5050. 
Thus, in a specific embodiment of the invention, the (ester+polymer) 
mixture constitutes all of the oily phase of the composition, indeed all 
of the fatty phase of the composition. 
According to the invention, at least one aromatic ester can preferably 
comprise from 5 to 95% of the oily phase, more preferably from 8 to 90% by 
weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase. 
According to the invention, at least one polymer comprising a 
--C(CH.sub.3).sub.2 --CH.sub.2 !-- unit can preferably comprise from 5 to 
95% of the oily phase, more preferably from 10 to 50% by weight, relative 
to the total weight of the oily phase. 
The composition can be provided in the form of a cosmetic, pharmaceutical 
or hygienic composition. It principally finds an application as a 
composition to be applied on the skin or mucous membranes, and in 
particular, to be applied on the lips of the face, such as a lipstick or a 
lip care or a lip balm, or a composition to be applied on a lipstick film, 
in particular in order to increase the gloss of the film. 
The composition can then be provided in the form of a stick or rod or in 
the form of a supple paste, the viscosity of which can be measured. In the 
case of a supple paste, the dynamic viscosity at 25.degree. C. preferably 
ranges from 3 to 35 Pa.s., measured with a Contraves TV rotary viscometer 
equipped with a "MS-r4" rotor at a speed of 60 Hz. 
The composition can further be provided in the form of a liquid phase, 
optionally thickened and/or gelled by conventional thickeners. 
The composition according to the invention can also be used as a care or 
make-up product for the skin, nails, eyelashes, and/or hair, such as hair 
balm, gel or lotion, a gel or lotion for caring for the nails, a mascara 
or an eyeliner, or even a cream or gel for the skin or body. 
Depending on the application envisaged, the composition according to the 
invention can additionally comprise the constituents commonly employed in 
the type of application envisaged. However, persons skilled in the art 
know how to choose these additional constituents, and/or their amount, so 
that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the 
invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the 
envisaged addition. 
Thus, the composition can comprise, in its oily phase, oils of vegetable, 
mineral, animal or synthetic origin, in particular silicone and/or 
fluorinated origin. Use is preferably made of oils having a high 
refractive index, in particular greater than 1.45, in order not to 
detrimentally affect the gloss of the film. 
Mention may be made, among the oils which can be envisaged, of volatile 
oils and non-volatile oils, which can be hydrocarbon, silicone and/or 
fluorinated oils, which can be cyclic or linear and which can be alone or 
as a mixture. 
Volatile oil is understood to mean, in the present description, any oil 
capable of evaporating on contact with the skin. Mention may be made, 
among volatile silicone oils, of cyclotetradimethylsiloxane, 
cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and 
methylhexyldimethylsiloxane. Mention may be made, among volatile 
hydrocarbon oils, of isoparaffins. Mention may be made, among silicone 
oils, of polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and alkyldimethicones, phenylated 
silicone oils, such as polyphenylmethylsiloxanes, or silicones modified by 
aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, which are optionally fluorinated, or by 
functional groups, such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups. 
Mention may be made, among non-silicone oils, of liquid paraffin, liquid 
petrolatum, perhydrosqualene, arara oil, sweet almond oil, calphyllum oil, 
palm oil, castor oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil or 
cereal germ oil; fatty acid esters; alcohols; acetylglycerides; or 
octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates or alcohols or of polyalcohols. 
The composition can additionally comprise other fatty substances of 
vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic origin, in particular, silicone 
and/or fluorinated origin. 
Use can thus be made of fatty acid triglycerides; glycerides; hydrogenated 
oils which are solid at 25.degree. C.; lanolins; or fatty esters which are 
solid at 25.degree. C. Mention may be made, among the waxes which can be 
envisaged, alone or as a mixture, of animal, vegetable, mineral and 
synthetic waxes, such as beeswax; carnauba, candelilla, ouricury or Japan 
wax or cork fibre or sugarcane waxes; paraffin or lignite waxes; 
microcrystalline waxes; ozokerites; polyethylene waxes and the waxes 
obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch synthesis; silicone waxes; or fluorinated 
waxes. 
The constituents of the fatty phase can in particular be chosen in a way 
varied by the person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition 
having the desired properties, for example, with respect to consistency or 
texture. 
The composition preferably comprises from 0 to 90% by weight of fatty 
constituents, other than the aromatic esters and the polymers containing a 
--C(CH.sub.3).sub.2 --CH.sub.2 !-- unit. 
Depending on the application envisaged, the composition can also comprise a 
particulate phase which can be present in a proportion preferably of from 
0 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0 to 10% by weight, and which can 
comprise pigments and/or pearlescent agents and/or fillers commonly used 
in cosmetic compositions. The nature and the amount of pigments and/or 
fillers will preferably be chosen judiciously be the person skilled in the 
art, in order not to cause an excessive decline in the gloss of the film. 
From this perspective, the amount of pigments will preferably be limited 
to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition and 
the amount of fillers will be limited to 5% by weight with respect to the 
total weight of the composition. 
The pigments can thus be present in the composition in the proportion 
preferably of from 0 to 15% by weight of the final composition, more 
preferably from 0 to 10% by weight. They can be white or colored, 
inorganic and/or organic. Mention may be made, among inorganic pigments, 
of titanium, zirconium or cerium dioxides, as well as zinc, iron or 
chromium oxides or ferric blue. Mention may be made, among organic 
pigments, of carbon black and baryium, strontium, calcium and aluminium 
lakes. 
The pearlescent agents can be present in the composition in a proportion 
preferably of from 0 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0 to 10% by 
weight. Mention may be made, among the pearlescent agents which can be 
envisaged, of mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with 
natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride and colored titanium 
oxide-coated mica. 
The fillers, which can be present in a proportion preferably of from 0 to 
15% by weight, more preferably from 0 to 5% by weight, in the composition, 
can be inorganic or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar. Mention may be 
made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, nylon and polyethylene powders, 
teflon, starch, natural mother-of-pearl, boron nitride, microspheres, such 
as Expancel (Nobel Industries) or polytrap (Dow Corning), and silicone 
resin microbeads (Tospearls from Toshiba, for example). 
The composition can additionally comprise any additive conventionally used 
in the cosmetics filed, such as antioxidants, fragrances, essential oils, 
preservatives, cosmetic active principles, moisturizers, vitamins, 
essential fatty acids, sphingolipids, artificial tanning agents, such as 
DHA, sunscreening agents, surfactants, or fat-soluble polymers, in 
particular, hydrocarbons, such as polyalkylenes, polyacrylates and 
silicone polymers which are compatible with fatty substances. 
The invention is further illustrated by the following examples, which are 
not intended to be limiting in any way. 
Measurement of the gloss 
The gloss of the compositions according to the invention was measured using 
a conventional photogoniometer. 
The compositions were maintained at a temperature of 25.degree. C.; a film 
with a thickness of 60 microns was spread over a glass plate at 33.degree. 
C. 
The incident beam arrived on the plate at an angle of -30.degree. with 
respect to the perpendicular. The specular reflection S was measured at 
+30.degree. and the diffuse reflection D was measured at 0.degree., with 
respect to the perpendicular. 
The gloss G was determined as being the ratio S/D.

EXAMPLE 1 
The following composition was prepared: 
______________________________________ 
% by weight 
______________________________________ 
polybutene (Indopol H1500 from Amoco) 
45% 
C.sub.12 -C.sub.15 alkyl benzoate (Finsolv TN from Finetex) 
33% 
PVP/hexadecene copolymer 
22% 
______________________________________ 
The refractive index of the mixture of the three constituents was 1.4905. 
The constituents were heated and mixed at 90.degree. C. until a homogenous 
mixture was obtained. 
After cooling, a clear and liquid composition was obtained which could be 
applied on a lipstick film in order to increase the gloss thereof. 
EXAMPLE 2 
A lip gloss having the following composition was prepared: 
______________________________________ 
% by weight 
______________________________________ 
polybutene (Indopol H100; molecular weight 965) 
45% 
tridecyl trimellitate (DUB TMTD from Stearinerie Dubois) 
20% 
polyethylene wax 10% 
pearlescent agents 4% 
preservatives, antioxidants 
q.s. 
octyldodecanol q.s. for 
100% 
______________________________________ 
The refractive index of the oily phase comprising "polybutene+tridecyl 
trimellitate+octyidodecanol" was 1.4823. 
The fatty substances were mixed and heated at 90.degree. C. until a 
homogenous mixture was obtained. The other constituents were added and 
then the mixture was poured into appropriate molds. 
A lip gloss was thus obtained which made it possible to obtain a film 
exhibiting good gloss as well as appropriate cosmetic characteristics. 
EXAMPLE 3 
A lipstick having the following composition was prepared: 
______________________________________ 
% by weight 
______________________________________ 
polybutene (Indopol H1500; molecular weight 2160) 
15% 
C.sub.12 -C.sub.15 alkyl benzoate (Finsolv TN from Finetex) 
20% 
tridecyl trimellitate (DUB TMTD from Stearinerie Dubois) 
15% 
phenyltrimethicone (DC556) 5% 
diisostearyl malate 7% 
lanolin 13% 
pigments 10% 
preservatives, antioxidants 
q.s. 
waxes (polyethylene, candelilla, carnauba) 
q.s. for 
100% 
______________________________________ 
The refractive index of the oily phase comprising "polybutene+alkyl 
benzoates+tridecyl trimellitate+phenyltrimethicone+diisostearyl malate" 
was 1.4833. 
The constituents were mixed and heated at 95.degree. C. After 
homogenization and milling, the mixture was poured at 95.degree. C. into 
appropriate molds. 
A lipstick was obtained which exhibited good cosmetic properties and which 
made it possible to obtain a glossy film on the lips.