Woven fabric having a bulging zone and method and apparatus of forming same

A process and apparatus for weaving a fabric with a three dimensional bulging zone, which is formed by increasing the density of the crossing points of the warp and weft threads so as to naturally impart a bulging zone in the fabric. The density is changed by changing the number of threads and/or changing the weave pattern. The lengths of the warp threads can also be increased in the bulging zone. In a preferred embodiment, the threads include a material which is settable by thermal or chemical treatment, and such that upon being set a three dimensional rigid matrix is formed which includes the non-settable threads as a reinforcement. The apparatus for carrying out the process takes the form of a loom having the capability of individually drawing off selected lengths of the warp threads from a warp supply, and a jacquard head for forming the weaving sheds and which has a control for changing the number of threads woven and/or the weave pattern.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
The invention refers to a process for weaving a three-dimensionally formed 
fabric zone. 
Such a process is known from DE- 39 15 085 A1. In this known process, the 
warp threads are drawn off at the selvage at different speeds. Thereby, 
the three-dimensionally bulging fabric zone is formed by increasing the 
distances between the weft threads, i.e.: reducing the number of the 
points of intersection. The 3D shape of these fabric zones is unstable and 
the fabric structure depends on the 3D shape. 
Other processes for weaving three-dimensional shells of fabric operate by 
varying the distances between the warp threads (U.S. Pat. No. 3,132,671; 
EP 0302012 A1). 
These known processes are based on the principle to achieve the bulging of 
the fabric zone by increasing the distances between the threads, i. e.: by 
reducing the number of points of intersection per unit area. Therefore, 
the three-dimensionally bulged zones comprise a disaggregated structure, 
so that a net-like structure may be provided. The resistance of such areas 
against being displaced is too small for further processing. The physical, 
especially the mechanical properties are reduced in comparison to other 
fabric areas and are not homogeneous in all directions. 
A further process for directly manufacturing a three-dimensional shell 
geometry includes weaving a cone as a two-layered area. Then the cone is 
cut out of the set of warp threads and spread (Rothe, H., Wiedemann, G.; 
Deutsche Textiltechnik 13 (1963) p. 95-101). 
The invention is based on the object to avoid the disadvantages mentioned 
above. It is aimed at producing an arbitrarily three-dimensionally formed 
fabric zone the structures of which can be predetermined and set 
arbitrarily--independently of the three-dimensional form--especially with 
regard to density and homogeneity in the direction of warp and weft. The 
3D shape is especially supposed to be stable. 
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
The above and other objects and advantages of the present invention are 
achieved by the provision of a process and apparatus which includes 
interweaving warp and weft threads to form a fabric and forming a bulging 
zone in the fabric by changing the density of the crossing points by 
changing the number of yarns and/or changing the weave pattern. 
A fabric is primarily defined by the number of the points of intersection 
as well as the number of crossing points thereof. The number of points of 
intersection per unit area is the product of the number of warp threads 
and the number of weft threads in this unit area. By crossing point is 
meant a point of intersection where a change of the warp threads involved 
between upper and lower shed has occurred. 
According to the present invention, the number of crossing points in the 
three-dimensional fabric zone is changed. In smaller zones, it is possible 
to work with a constant draw-off speed of the warp threads running through 
the fabric zone which speed is equal across the width of the fabric. 
Preferably, however, the draw-off speeds of the warp threads running 
through the fabric zone are varied, i. e.: increased, e. g. in order to 
avoid forming a preliminary fabric i.e. a woven structure in the track of 
the beat-up motion. 
In order to compensate for the increased distances between the weft threads 
caused in this process, i. e.: the reduction of the number of points of 
intersection, the density of crossing points is increased beyond forming 
the 3D shape. 
Because of the invention, it is possible not only to weave a 
three-dimensional fabric zone but also to control the structure of this 
fabric zone by influencing, i. e.: increasing or decreasing the number of 
crossing points per unit area--and in a limited way even the number of 
points of intersection per unit area--in a desired manner. Thereby, a lot 
of parameters can be influenced, such as, for instance, stability, 
elasticity, resistance to displacement, fabric thickness, atmospheric 
resistance, permeability and filtration characteristics towards liquids, 
optical effects (transparency, translucency). 
The three-dimensional fabric produced is distinguished by an adjustable 
weight per unit area. Seams or double layers to cover seams are not 
necessary. The fabric is highly resistant to mechanical strain, as the 
density and homogeneity of the threads are adjustable and the threads are 
not damaged by subsequently being stretched or overstretched. A subsequent 
change in shape as a consequence of the threads shrinking because of 
latent tensions is avoided. The bulge can be exactly predetermined and 
exactly reproduced by computing. Clippings can be avoided, and the process 
provides a high productivity. 
The invention is based on the idea to produce the three-dimensional bulge 
in a fabric by the purposeful application of different crossing point 
densities, i. e. different frequencies of interlacing between warp and 
weft. This is achieved by changing the weave structure and/or by tieing up 
or removing additional threads. 
Thus, different to all known techniques, the production of 
three-dimensional fabric bulges takes place before the drawing-off 
process--independently of the number of points of intersection, i.e.: the 
number of warp threads and weft threads, namely by arranging the warp 
threads and weft threads. Increasing or decreasing the density of crossing 
points per unit area and increasing or decreasing the number of bindings 
leads to an increased surface of the fabric zone. Decreasing the density 
of crossing points per unit area leads to a decreased surface. A fabric 
zone with an increased surface bulges outward or inward to a 
three-dimensional shell compared to the rest of the fabric area. In this 
process, it is possible to increase the surface strongly such as to form 
cylindrical or even more strongly elevated lateral areas of the 
three-dimensional fabric zone. 
If the zone comprises a reduced surface compared to the surrounding zone, 
the surrounding fabric bulges around this zone. 
The processes of changing the weave structure and adding or removing 
threads can be combined, whether to adjust the bulge or whether to adjust 
the fabric density in the fabric zone. 
It has already been mentioned that adjusting the distances between weft 
threads by changing the draw-off speed of the warp threads can be 
appropriate. In addition to the distances between the weft threads, the 
lateral distances between the warp threads can also be changed. This 
embodiment of the process has the purpose, especially in the very steep 3D 
areas, to distribute the lateral distances of the warp threads and/or weft 
threads in a purposeful manner in order to achieve freedom in designing 
the distribution of the crossing points. Warp threads and weft threads can 
be distributed across the bulge such as to follow certain zones of stress. 
By drawing off the warp threads more rapidly, forming a preliminary fabric 
is avoided in the places in which a larger surface is produced. In 
controlling the lateral distance of the warp threads, purposeful courses 
of threads can be combined with 3D geometries produced by weaving 
techniques, such as is required by the mechanical demands on a fiber 
reinforced plastic component, for instance. 
As has been mentioned, the adjustment of the distances of weft threads 
occurs by producing different draw-off speeds of the warp threads. 
The adjustment of the distances of the warp thread occurs by controllable 
weaving reeds. As an example, there is known a fan-like weaving reed in 
which dents (staves) run from the lower or upper longitudinal center of 
the weaving reed in the manner of a fan. Such weaving reeds have been used 
in the past to influence the width of a fabric, especially of a weaved 
ribbon, by changing the distance between warp threads (cf.: International 
Trade Bulletin, p. 2/1993). For this purpose, these fan-shaped weaving 
reeds are moved more or less in a stroking manner. According to the 
invention, this movement is substantially continuous and adapted to the 
desired changes of the 3-dimensional shape of the fabric. 
Another example is a weaving reed with controllably displaceable dents 
(DE-OS 41 37 082). 
It is desirable that the fabric produced is homogeneous in both directions 
(warp and weft) in spite of different distances between the points of 
intersection. This is the purpose of the process wherein the different 
distances are compensated for, in whole or in part, by changing the number 
of crossing points. Now, in each direction, net-like places in the fabric 
can be avoided and the physical characteristics of the fabric can be 
influenced. Thereby, the crossing point density or--amounting to the same 
thing--the number of bindings does not only compensate for different 
distances between intersections along a warp thread, but also transversely 
thereto, i. e. along a weft thread. 
The number of warp threads and/or weft threads tied up can be varied by 
individual warp threads or sets of warp threads not being involved in 
forming sheds in areas of the fabric, so that the warp threads or weft 
threads, respectively, are only tied up in other areas, i. e. especially 
in the 3-dimensional areas, but float laterally thereto. In this process, 
the warp threads not being involved in forming the sheds preferably remain 
positioned in the lower shed so that the floating lengths of the weft 
threads do not hang down into the weaving machine. 
According to the invention, it is therefore provided that the number of 
warp threads and/or weft threads tied up in areas of the fabric which are 
formed 3-dimensionally varies, or that another weaving structure is 
provided. In both cases, the process can be carried out by a 
multiple-shaft machine. Nowadays, machines with up to 24 shafts are used. 
By suspending the threads on different shafts and differently driving the 
shafts, it can be achieved that the sets of warp threads being guided on 
different shafts can be involved in forming the sheds in different ways. 
It is especially appropriate for this purpose to use a jacquard machine, 
which can individually raise and lower all the warp threads between upper 
shed and lower shed according to a program in order to form the sheds. 
The warp threads as well as the weft threads may be tied up in certain 
fabric areas while floating in others. Where the warp threads and weft 
threads, respectively, are tied up, the density of the fabric increases in 
any case, but in some cases also the surface of the fabric increases, 
and--in turn--the density of the fabric decreases in any case, but in some 
cases the surface of the fabric where the threads float decreases as well. 
To use a shuttle weaving machine provides the advantage that--depending on 
the width of the three-dimensional fabric zone--the weft threads are only 
inserted in the three-dimensional fabric zone and do not float in the rest 
of the fabric areas. These additional threads have, to a far extent, the 
same effect as the floating threads mentioned above, except for the fact 
that the thread length thereof is adapted to the width of the fabric zone 
involved. The subsequent cutting-off process of occasionally long, 
protruding thread ends is eliminated. Furthermore, the amount of material 
to be employed is reduced because of the reduced occurrence of clippings. 
A very large number of threads can be inserted additionally into the 
three-dimensional fabric zone in the case of fabrics with multiple layers. 
For this purpose, fabrics with multiple layers are produced. In the area 
of the three-dimensional fabric zone, threads are transferred and inserted 
from a dissolved or thinned fabric layer determining the three-dimensional 
shape of the fabric zone. Thus, the fabric density remains substantially 
the same, as also the number of threads inserted remains the same. 
However, the possibility of a three-dimensional bulge is increased 
considerably by the large number of additional threads available for the 
three-dimensional thread zone. 
To change the number of threads tied up in the bulging zone, a weave 
pattern with a changed, preferably increased density of crossing points 
and a correspondingly changed or increased number of thread bindings. This 
is especially effective to achieve a three-dimensional fabric zone. It 
allows for providing a changed, i. e. generally an increased density of 
crossing points or a larger number of thread bindings than in the 
surrounding fabric zone. 
The distance between two neighboring threads (e. g. warp threads) is 
influenced by the number of times the threads of the respective crossing 
thread system (e. g. weft threads) pass through, as the threads are pushed 
apart at a binding or crossing point. The more passages or crossing points 
are present per unit area, the larger the distances between the threads. 
For example, in a plain weave, the distances are at a maximum because of 
the highest density of crossing points, in a simple twill weave, they are 
smaller, and in a long floating satin weave still even smaller. If an at 
least partially enclosed fabric zone with an increased crossing point 
density per unit area is produced in a fabric with a low crossing point 
density per unit area, a three-dimensional shell shape is already produced 
because of the layer surface of this fabric zone. This process simplifies 
the production of three-dimensional fabric bulges in so far as the forming 
of the preliminary fabric can be controlled at selectable locations and 
this preliminary fabric only has to be compensated for by producing 
different draw-off speeds. The homogeneity or other structural properties 
of the fabric can therefore be controlled independently of the geometry of 
the fabric. 
On the one hand, the process according to the invention causes the 
formation of a three-dimensional fabric zone by changing the weaving 
structure and/or the number of threads inserted; on the other hand, the 
changed distance between points of intersection of the three-dimensional 
fabric zone can be compensated for; apart from that, favorable 
possibilities of design for the textile, mechanical or physical properties 
of the fabric zone are a result. 
Broad technical applications become possible by these designs to set the 
mechanical and/of physical characteristics of the bulging zone. 
In this, stability, elasticity or resistance to displacement can, among 
other things, be set independently of the direction in the direction of 
warp or weft. This is especially advantageous when mechanical stress for a 
fabric is defined, as in the case of a housing of fiber reinforced 
material, which is to support a load. 
With the aid of the weaving pattern and thread-filling techniques described 
above, fabric structure, fabric density, local wall strength can be 
adapted to mechanical requirements. 
The fabric is suitable as a filter material for air, gas and liquid 
filters, as permeability and filtration are adjustable and independent of 
the geometry of the three-dimensional fabric zone. 
Optical effects, such as patterns, become adjustable independently of the 
geometry of the three-dimensional fabric zone in cases where not only the 
technical properties of the seamless three-dimensional fabric but also an 
agreeable look and pattern are decisive. 
The three-dimensional fabric zone can also be part of a hollow body. For 
this purpose, the fabric zone can be connected areally to a plane or 
another three-dimensional fabric zone, e. g. by sewing or adhesion. This 
operation is replaced by an automated process. In this process, a fabric 
is woven with at least two layers which are guided separately in the area 
of the three-dimensional fabric zone and are only brought together and 
connected closely to each other or tied up at a place behind the 
three-dimensional fabric zone. Thus, a space or a hollow space, 
respectively, is produced between the fabric layers. Such hollow spaces 
are advantageous if, for instance, individual fabric layers are supposed 
to be displaced against each other or removed from each other during 
further processing or in operation. For this purpose, the structure 
proposed herein does not have to be composed of individual pieces any 
more. 
The space between the connected fabric layers would adopt a substantially 
arbitrary shape when filled with gas, liquid or loose material. This is 
avoided in that so-called binding warp threads may be tied up regularly or 
irregularly between upper and lower layers with a predetermined floating 
length In this, binding warp threads are such warp threads that are tied 
up floatingly, over distances, in the one or the other fabric layer, 
respectively, changing regularly or irregularly, and have a predetermined 
length. These binding warp threads are subjected to tensile forces when 
the hollow space is inflated with gas, liquid or loose material, thus 
limiting the local space between the two fabric layers. The spaces between 
the fabric layers lying above each other can thus be adjusted by the 
floating lengths of the binding warp threads. Thereby, the two fabric 
layers can obtain defined space profiles. At the same time, it is 
especially advantageous to use the binding warp threads as filling to 
control the three-dimensional shape and/or the fabric density. In this 
process, the three-dimensional fabric zone can seamlessly enclose a large 
part of the air bag hull. 
The production of two fabric layers connected by binding warp threads and 
tied up changingly between the upper and lower layers as spacers is known 
from the production of velvet, for example. There, these binding warp 
threads serve as pile threads after the fabric layers have been separated. 
Such a double fabric is advantageously applicable as an air bag to avoid 
injuries in motor vehicle accidents. Because of the length of and the 
tensile stress to the binding warp threads, the shape of the inflated air 
bag is limited such that it does not hit driver or passenger in the face 
in the case of an explosion, injuring them. The air bag according to the 
invention contains substantially less seams than in the past. This reduces 
the overall weight of the air bag, especially in places where a human 
being bumps on the air bag. 
When being filled with a liquid, solid, loose or foaming (expanding) 
material or with a curing liquid or when soaking the inflated fabric with 
a curing liquid, bodies with a seamless fabric cover can be produced in 
this manner. 
The threads used for the process according to the invention can consist of 
natural fibers, especially linen, cotton, hemp, jute etc. Synthetic 
threads are another option. As the three-dimensional shape is produced by 
weaving in one operational step, the threads do not have to be plastically 
deformable, or just to a small extent. The proposed processes and products 
according to the invention are especially suited for such materials, as 
the deformability of the material, which is very small at first, does not 
have an effect any more when a bulge is produced. 
The three-dimensional formation can be increased and supported by providing 
that, the bulge, which can be cylindrical or hemispherical, for example, 
be positioned within a two-dimensional fabric area which annularly 
encloses the bulge wholly or in part. 
The two-dimensional fabric area can then be cut away or be utilized 
together with the rest. Such a structure can especially be formed as a 
hat, the two-dimensional ring-shaped fabric area of the 
three-dimensional--e. g. hemispherical or cylindrical--bulged fabric zone 
serving as a brim. 
Versatile forms of such a fabric zone include the shape of a cylinder which 
is open on one end and is provided on the other end with a plane or 
hemispheroid end with a central opening. The bulging zone may also have 
the shape of a partial sphere or hemisphere. 
The fabric zone provided as a hemisphere or a spherical zone is especially 
suited for parts of garments, which, according to the weaving process of 
this invention, can be adapted to the shape of the body when being woven, 
without comprising any irritating seams in the area of the bulge 
afterwards. 
An important area of application for such fabrics are orthopedic and 
medical supporting fabrics which can be adapted seamlessly to a part of 
the body, e. g. head, chin or foot. Such seamless supporting fabrics with 
adjustable density are advantageous especially when the fabric has to stay 
fixed to the body for a long time (for example after a jaw or skull 
fracture). The supporting fabrics do not cause any pressure marks when 
worn over a longer period of time. 
Another important area of application are parts of outer garments, 
underwear or swimwear, especially for ladies. Thus, a fabric zone in a 
hemispherical shape can be employed in the area of the breast as a support 
or as part of the bra. This support has the advantage that no seams or 
metal reinforcements are required, which are uncomfortable and pinch when 
worn for a longer period of time. 
Elongated fabric profiles can also be formed. A suitable application of 
such a fabric zone is a sail which is given the shape of an airfoil 
profile in one area. The otherwise usual seams are eliminated, whereby the 
flow bears on the sail in a better way and the energy is used more 
efficiently, as less turbulence arises. 
Another important field of application are filter cloths. These have the 
advantage that a seamless, homogeneously designable filter surface with a 
desired three-dimensional form and with certain filtration properties for 
passing through or holding back substances and/or particles can be 
produced. 
Finally, the process can be used to produce self-supporting bowls, vessels, 
containers or similar items with a fabric reinforcement, which are applied 
either as such or as reinforcement inserts for plastic bodies and plastic 
profiles. In the simplest of cases, such a form body can be produced by 
coating and/or soaking the bulging zone with a curable liquid plastic. 
Alternatively, threads of a first material and threads of a second material 
can be interwoven, with the second material being settable by thermal or 
chemical treatment. When subjected to such treatment, the second material 
is set to thereby form a continuous three dimensional rigid matrix which 
includes the threads of the first material as a reinforcement. Thus a 
rigid, reinforced form body may be easily produced in just one or two 
steps, respectively--weaving and thermal or chemical treatment. 
As fiber reinforcements, such three-dimensional fabric zones and form 
bodies have the advantage of being homogeneous without deep-drawing or 
cutting work and being formed with a constant quality. The weight 
distribution of fibers and matrix materials is already fixedly 
predetermined by the production of the fabric. 
A fabric zone in the form of a cylinder having an open end can especially 
serve as a fiber reinforcement for a hub of a wheel or a rim. 
Shell-shaped fiber reinforcements according to the invention are suitable 
for containers or crash helmets or safety helmets. 
Such a container can contain two such fabric zones which are installed at 
the interior side and the exterior side of the matrix of the helmet. As 
the fiber reinforcement according to this invention neither comprises 
seams nor has to be adapted to the three-dimensional helmet shape by 
overlapping several plane layers, and the fiber courses therefore are not 
interrupted anywhere, especially not at the forehead or head sides, the 
fiber reinforcement withstands the stress in spite of only small amounts 
of material being used. As hardly any manual interference is required in 
the production, the fiber insert can be produced in an always similar and 
precalculated quality and position within the helmet shell. 
Thus, the invention ensures the production of three-dimensional fabrics 
with freely selectable geometries and closed surfaces or surfaces which 
are adjustable to different requirements. Geometries and thread structures 
are freely controllable with the aid of the existing shedding mechanism. 
Especially freely programmable electronically controlled jacquard machines 
in are a suitable means for putting into practice the process according to 
the invention. The inputted control programs allow for the arbitrarily 
often exact reproduction of predetermined fabric bulges with a 
predetermined fabric structure.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS 
FIG. 1 shows a weaving machine with its elements, which are necessary for 
the embodiment of the present invention. Individual warp bobbins 1 are 
presented to the weaving machine. The warp bobbins 1 are creeled on a 
creel 16. The warp threads 2 are drawn off the bobbins and then guided 
individually through the individual elements of the weaving machine. In 
this application, reference is made only to one warp thread; however, it 
should be noted that this can always also mean two or three or a set of 
warp threads. 
First of all, the warp thread is guided through one of the brakes 3. Each 
brake can be set individually. This can occur manually. 
In the embodiment according to FIG. 2, each brake 3 consists of a lower 
plate 3.2 and an upper plate 3.1. Each warp thread 2 is drawn therethrough 
between such a lower plate and such an upper plate. The lower plate 3.2 is 
arranged in a fixed place; the upper plate 3.1 is attached to the rod of 
an electromagnet 36 and can be pushed against the lower plate 3.2 with a 
force which can be preset. The electromagnets 36 are individually 
addressed by braking means 14 and braking program 21 (FIG. 6). Thereby, 
the braking force and the thread tension in the warp threads 2.1 can be 
adjusted differently. On the other hand, the adjusted individual warp 
thread is also dependent on the draw-off mechanism 11 and the individual 
draw-off speed thereof for each single warp thread, as the program steps 
of the braking program unit are gathered depending on the draw-of f speed 
of the warp thread. This will be explained in greater detail with 
reference to FIG. 6. Thereby, the brakes are individually controllable in 
the course of the weaving process. It is a matter of course that the 
brakes are constantly adjustable even during the weaving process. 
The jacquard control 4 serves to move the warp threads up and down. Harness 
cords 18 are suspended in this jacquard control 4. From the harness cords 
18, heddles are suspended, and eyelets 6 are suspended from these. The 
eyelets are moved upwards by the harness cords and the jacquard control 
and brought into an upper position (upper shed). The eyelets 6 are 
connected downwards by rubber strings 33--shown in FIG. 3--, wherethrough 
the eyelets are drawn against the force of the jacquard control into a 
lower position (lower shed). 
The heddles 19 are small longitudinal metal tongues which can be seen in 
FIG. 3. The warp thread positioning means 5 is arranged in front of the 
eyelets 6. By means of this warp thread positioning means, the harness 
cords 18, or the heddles 19 or the eyelets 6, respectively, are positioned 
laterally such that the eyelets substantially have the same distance as 
the warp threads running through the weaving reed 7 (see below). 
Each warp thread is guided behind its brake through an eyelet of the 
eyelets 6 each. By means of the jacquard control 4, each warp thread is 
moved, independently of the other warp threads, into the upper shed or the 
lower shed according to the jacquard program unit 22. 
The weave structure of the fabric as well as the number of tied up threads 
depends on the jacquard control, i. e. on which of the warp threads are 
moved to the upper or the lower shed in each filling. 
The weaving reed 7 is arranged behind the jacquard means. 
The weaving reed 7 is a frame in the shape of a trapezoid or a 
parallelogram. Between the upper edge and the lower edge running parallel 
thereto, dents 8 (staves) are fitted such that the dents lead apart from 
the upper edge in the shape of a fan. Such a weaving reed is shown in DE 
39 15 085 A1, for example. Each warp thread is guided through a space 
between the dents 8. The forward movement 15.1 (FIG. 3) of the weaving 
reed, by means of which the last weft thread is pressed to the edge of the 
fabric after each filling, and the backward movement of the weaving reed 
15.1 are caused by the machine control, e. g. a crank mechanism (not 
shown). 
By means of the slow upward or downward movement 15.2 of the weaving reed 
(FIG. 3), the lateral distance of the warp threads in the weaving reed and 
behind that is determined. 
Even the positioning means 5 guides the warp threads through the eyelets of 
the jacquard means with the lateral distance already predetermined by the 
weaving reed. 
The upward and downward movements 15.2 is controlled by the weaving reed 
control according to a predetermined program. 
The weft insertion of the weft thread 9 takes place behind the weaving 
reed. The weft thread is drawn off the weft bobbin 10 and guided through 
the shed by means of gripping devices. However, any other weft insertion 
systems are possible, especially the weft insertion by shuttles (weaving 
shuttle). 
The resulting fabric 12 can be drawn off by individual gripping devices. A 
cloth beam 11 is employed here. The cloth beam 11 is separated in 
individual and individually drivable roll segments, i. e.: rollers of a 
small width. The resulting fabric is clamped between the rollers and the 
freely rotatable opposite rollers. Now the individual roll segments are 
driven individually by the drawing-off control 25 and the drawing-off 
program 26 (FIG. 6). In order to form a plane fabric or a plane area of a 
fabric, the roll segments are moved at the same speed after each filling 
9. When forming a three-dimensional fabric zone, it is advantageous to 
move the roll segments at different speeds after each filling 9. 
Thereby, the warp threads of the fabric zone are given an individually 
controllable draw-off speed. 
A suitable cloth beam separable into segments and the drive there-of is 
also shown and described in DE 39 15 085 A1. 
As mentioned above, the braking control is operated synchronously and in 
dependence on the drawing-off control. 
The fabric can then be wound on the cloth draw-off beam 17. 
FIG. 3 and FIG. 4 show the positioning of the warp threads before being 
guided into the weaving reed 7 in detail. Only the frame and two dents 8 
are represented of the reed. The dents 8 run outward from the upper edge 
in the shape of a fan. Furthermore, only the warp thread 2 is represented 
running through the space between the represented dents 8. 
A set of parallel guiding rods 32 extending substantially parallel to the 
warp 2 serves for positioning the heddles 19 with eyelets 6 and harness 
cords, respectively. For the sake of clarity, only the guiding rod 32 is 
represented, which serves to guide the represented heddle and the 
represented warp thread. As do all of the guiding rods, this guiding rod 
32 also projects into the same space between two dents 8 through which the 
corresponding warp thread 2 to be guided runs as well. The other end of 
each guiding rod 32 is held by an individual elastic band 34 in the warp 
direction as well as by an elastic band 35 in the weft direction shared by 
all the guiding rods. The shared elastic band 35 can be expanded 
elastically by the positioning control 5 to a more or less great extent. 
Thereby, the distance of the fixation points of the guiding rods 32 on the 
elastic band 35 changes. As an alternative, the shared elastic band 35 can 
be replaced by an equally (in the weft direction) directed guiding ridge 
whereon the guiding rods 32 slide. In this case, the guiding rods are 
positioned with sufficient precision only by the horizontal distance or 
the dents guiding the leading ends of the guiding rods. Thus, the 
horizontal distance of the guiding rods is only determined by the vertical 
position of the weaving reed without a further positioning control being 
necessary. 
The shared elastic band 35 can also be replaced by a helical spring 35 
(FIG. 4). The helical spring extends in the weft direction. Its coils 
engage between adjacent positioning rods 22. The helical spring 35 is 
tensed by the positioning control 5 with a force F to a more or less great 
extent. Thereby, the pitch of the coils and thus the distance of the rear 
end of the positioning rods 32 changes. 
The distance of the leading ends of the guiding rods is predetermined by 
the respective vertical position of the weaving reed 7. Both distances are 
aligned with each other by the vertical weaving reed control on the one 
hand and the positioning control 5 on the other hand. 
As any guiding rod bears on a heddle 19, guiding it laterally, the heddles 
are given the distance of the dents 8. Thereby, the warp threads run 
through the weaving reed without a significant deviation. Friction and 
production of undesired thread tractions are avoided. The thread traction 
force can only be predetermined by braking and by the take-down device. 
FIG. 5 shows a top view of this warp thread guiding between the jacquard 
means and the fabric edge of the fabric 12. Only some parts of the weaving 
machine are represented in top view, these being the weaving reed 7 with 
dents 8, the eyelets 6 of the jacquard control, some warp threads 2 as 
well as the edge of the fabric 12. On the left side, the top view of the 
guiding of the warp threads without a positioning means is represented. 
The warp threads are redirected both at the eyelet 6 of the jacquard 
control as well as at the dent 8 of the weaving reed 7, when the distance 
between the warp thread is increased by the fan-like weaving reed, as is 
represented here as an example. 
On the right side, the top view of the guiding of the warp threads with a 
positioning means 5 is represented. The heddles and eyelets 6 are held at 
a distance towards each other corresponding to the distance of the warp 
thread in the current vertical position of the weaving reed by the 
positioning rods 22. 
By the redirection of the warp threads which is produced without the 
positioning means, an uneven warp thread tension is built up in the set of 
warp threads. It has turned out that this is the cause of deviations of 
the three-dimensional fabric zone from the precalculated form. The 
positioning means also avoids abrasion and wear of the warp threads. 
FIG. 6 shows a schematic view of the cooperation of the individual controls 
and the corresponding programs. The weaving machine is controlled by the 
superordinate weaving program 20. This is predetermined by the 
three-dimensional fabric which is to be produced. The weaving program 
fetches the individual program steps of the subordinate programs 21, 22, 
23, 25. The subordinate programs are: 
the braking program 21; this addresses the braking control 14. The brakes 3 
for each warp thread 2 can be set individually or in sets or altogether 
and depending on the instruction steps of the drawing-off program 25. 
the jacquard program 22; this operates the jacquard control 4. Each harness 
cord 16 can be drawn upwards individually or in sets with others to form 
the upper shed or downwards by the elastic band to form the lower shed. 
The jacquard program is predetermined such that the weaving structure 
and/or the number of threads tied up is changed and set according to the 
predetermined three-dimensional shape of the fabric zone to be formed. 
the weaving reed program 23; this addresses the weaving reed control 24, 
thus predetermining the vertical position of the weaving reed in the 
direction 15.2. This influences the lateral distance of the warp threads 
and thus the density of the points of intersection. At the same time, the 
positioning control 5 is controlled such that the lateral distance of the 
warp threads from the weaving reed corresponds to the distance the warp 
threads are given by the respective vertical position of the weaving reed. 
the drawing-off program 25; this addresses the drawing-off control 26 and 
thus predetermines the speed of the roll segments of the draw-off 
mechanism 11 individually or in sets or altogether. The start of the 
drawing-off program is synchronized with the start of the braking program. 
Thereby, the braking operation of the individual thread is adapted to its 
draw-off speed. 
To put the invention into practice, at first a plane fabric homogeneous 
across the length and width thereof is produced. This fabric is 
characterized by the number of points of intersection per unit area, the 
number of crossing points with a binding of a warp and a weft thread, the 
number and length of the floating threads as well as--if desired--the 
number of the fabric layers. 
In order to form a three-dimensional fabric zone 13,--e. g. according to 
FIG. 7ff.--the crossing point number, i. e. the number of crossing points 
with a binding of warp and weft thread each, is increased or decreased in 
a zone of the fabric, either at the longitudinal edge or at a central area 
of the sheet. This occurs by changing the weaving structure and/or by 
changing the number of threads tied up. 
The number of threads tied up can be increased by taking along floating 
threads in the plane fabric area or in other fabric layers, thus having 
ready a "supply" from which threads can be "taken out" and tied up in the 
three-dimensional fabric zone. Thereby, increased lengths of warp and/or 
weft threads are tied up in the fabric zone. Consequently, the mutual 
repulsion of the warp and weft threads changes in this fabric zone, and 
the fabric zone bulges in a three-dimensional manner. 
Therefore, it is suitable to increase or decrease the draw-off speed of the 
roll segments concerned of the draw-off mechanism with regard to the warp 
threads to avoid a fabric surplus at the cloth beam. 
It should be noted that, in the state of the art, the difference in speed 
of the warp thread being drawn off leads to the three-dimensional bulge of 
the fabric. Thus, this three-dimensional bulge is based on a change in the 
number of points of intersection. It can only be relatively weak; above 
all, it leads to a "thinning and weakening" of the fabric, thus not being 
very stable. 
According to the invention, however, the three-dimensional shape is forced 
on the fabric by changing the crossing point number and therefore by 
changing its internal structure. Changing the speed of drawing off warp 
threads is not the cause of the three-dimensional shape, but only a 
possible, but not necessary secondary measure, which is preferably 
compensated for by further changing the crossing point number with regard 
to the density of the fabric. Changing the speed of drawing off the warp 
threads is not necessary, especially not in the case of smaller 3D shapes 
or when large sheds are being formed. 
To support and modify the three-dimensional form of the fabric zone, the 
distance between warp threads and thus the number of points of 
intersection per unit area can additionally be changed by moving the 
weaving reed up or down. This measure can also be compensated for with 
regard to the density of the fabric by further changing the crossing point 
number. 
Changing the weaving structure or the number of threads tied up occurs by 
changing the rhythm of shed formation (moving the jacquard eyelets 6 
upward or downward). 
Further details are described referring to FIGS. 7 to 17. 
FIG. 7 represents a fabric enclosing a fabric zone of increased crossing 
point density (crossing point number). As an example, the surrounding 
fabric is designed as a body weaving. The enclosed three-dimensional 
fabric zone comprises a linen weaving. In this zone, the frequency of 
warp/weft thread bindings is increased compared to the surrounding fabric. 
Thereby, the threads are spread further apart and occupy a larger surface 
than the surrounding body weaving. The zone woven in a linen weaving thus 
bulges out compared to the surrounding area or forms a constantly 
increasing preliminary fabric when being woven. In the area of this zone 
with a linen weaving, it is advantageous to draw off the fabric at an 
increased speed so that this formation of a preliminary fabric does not 
lead to disturbances. The points of intersection drawn off at the 
increased speed would comprise larger distances if the linen weaving did 
not increase the number of bindings at the same time. Therefore, the linen 
weaving has a compensatory effect on the increased distances between 
points of intersection. 
FIGS. 8 to 10 represent three weaving structures, each comprising different 
binding frequencies and therefore requiring different spaces for the 
processed threads. 
FIG. 8 shows a linen weaving which results in the highest thread distances 
both in the warp and in the weft direction. 
Compared to that, the body weaving of FIG. 9 has a lower number of bindings 
and smaller thread distances. Without changing the number of threads, 
smaller fabric surfaces than in the case of the linen weaving are the 
result. 
The five-end atlas according to FIG. 10 guides the threads very closely to 
each other and thus occupies an even less extensive area. 
The crossing point density of the three weaves shown in FIGS. 8 to 10 
decreases from top to bottom in the arrangement of the figures. The 
different crossing point densities per unit area and therefore the spatial 
relations specific to the weave are used to obtain closed surfaces in the 
area of three-dimensional bulges and to avoid net-like places caused by 
the geometry. 
FIG. 11 shows the process, if a three-dimensional shell geometry is 
supported with the aid of additional threads tied up over distances or is 
adjusted to special requirements. Before the shell bulge is produced, warp 
and weft threads are taken along in the fabric in a layer lying above or 
below the plane which is bulged later on, which threads are not tied up in 
this plane. In certain places, these threads taken along are inserted, e. 
g. as warp threads 2.1, in a linen weave into the fabric plane/layer which 
is to be bulged. With the distances between the points of intersection 
remaining unchanged, the threads which have been woven below or above the 
plane to be bulged now replace the threads already present in the plane, 
thus leading to an enlargement (if threads are taken out of this plane, to 
a reduction) of the size of the area. This process leads to the desired 
bulge. On the other hand, it can also be used to adjust the 
characteristics of the fabric in spite of changing draw-off speeds and 
changing distances between points of intersection, for example mechanical 
behavior, permeability and resistance to displacement. 
FIGS. 12 to 14 present, with reference to three exemplary weave structures, 
how three-dimensional shell geometries are built up, filled up and 
adjusted in their structure and density with the aid of multi-layered 
weaves. 
FIG. 12 shows a single-layered linen weave. No threads are "stored" 
therein. 
The weave according to FIG. 13 contains, in a second plane 27, an 
"additional weft thread" 9.3 between each second weft thread and an 
"additional warp thread" 2.3 between each second warp thread 2.2. The 
"additional threads" are inserted in the upper layer to form the 3D shape. 
In the weave according to FIG. 14, an "additional weft thread" 9.3 and 9.4 
for each weft thread 9.1 and 9.2 and an "additional warp thread" 2.3 and 
2.4 for each warp thread 2.1 and 2.2 are inserted as a second fabric layer 
27. 
Depending on how large the bulge is supposed to be, more or less threads 
from the additional layer 27 have to be tied up in the thread layer 28 
which is to cause the bulge. 
Depending on how large the eventually intended bulge of the 
three-dimensional fabric layer 28 is supposed to be, more or less threads 
have to be taken along in the additional layers 27 until being inserted 
into the bulged layer 28. 
In FIG. 15 there are also shown, apart from the formation of multiple 
additional layers 27, floating, non-interlaced threads (warp threads 2.1 
or weft threads 9.1) being tied up across desired distances, i. e. fabric 
zone 13, into the plane/layer to be bulged. 
FIG. 16(a) shows the structure of a woven hemisphere. 
FIG. 16(b) (left side) shows a fabric cutout according to the state of the 
art, in which no technical weaving process has been employed to balance 
increased distances between points of intersection or to adjust certain 
fabric properties, i. e.: only the distances of the points of intersection 
have been changed; in the area of the 3D shape, the fabric becomes less 
dense or netlike. 
FIG. 16(c) (right side) shows a fabric cutout in which additional threads 
have been tied up in the surface. The density of the fabric does not 
depend on the 3D shape. In such a design, the fabric is usable, for 
example, as a breast area or a breast support for ladies' wear, as a 
container, as fiber reinforcement for a plastic component, e. g. a helmet 
shell. 
With the example of weft threads 9 tied up additionally, FIG. 17 shows the 
formation of the preliminary fabric. It is based on the fact that a fabric 
surplus is produced in the three-dimensional fabric zone by reducing the 
distances between the weft threads and increasing the density of the 
fabric. A drawing-off process which produces different draw-off speeds 
across the width of the fabric is advantageous in this context, as the 
formation of the preliminary fabric can be balanced primarily by this 
process. 
FIG. 18 shows a top view of a sailboat with a sail 30. On the side turned 
away from the wind, the sail bulges in the shape of the airfoil of an 
aircraft. This bulge 29 of the sail in the area of the mast 31 is a 3D 
shape formed according to this invention and produced without seams and 
subsequent deformations. 
FIG. 19 shows the cross section along a warp thread through a 
three-dimensional fabric in the shape of a bag. Such a bag can, for 
example, serve as an air bag or as a mold filled with gaseous, liquid, 
foaming, solid or loose material. The bag-like bulge is produced by a 
correspondingly narrow weaving structure and by tieing up a lot of 
additional weft and warp threads, respectively. Some warp threads 2.1, 
however, are not tied up in the area of the largest bulge. Instead, these 
warp threads float at a relatively high thread tension. These floating 
warp threads thus form a limit to the movement for the air bag and 
predetermine the shape in the inflated state.