Cosmetic compositions for application to the nail

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for application to a nail, comprising as a film-forming agent an aqueous dispersion of particles of at least one polyurethane and of at least one radical-polymerization polymer containing carboxyl groups.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for application to 
a nail, comprising as a film-forming agent an aqueous dispersion of 
polymers. 
A cosmetic composition of the nail varnish type, comprising as a 
film-forming agent an aqueous dispersion of polyurethane polymer or of 
polyurethane/acrylic/styrene copolymer, is known from European Patent 
Application EP 391 322 and from U.S. Pat. No. 5,120,529, the disclosures 
of which are hereby incorporated by reference. It was, however, observed 
that not all the aqueous dispersions mentioned in this document displayed 
a correct film-forming property, and that they hence did not enable a 
correct film of good quality to be obtained after spreading on the nail. 
The object of the present invention is to provide aqueous dispersions which 
make it possible to obtain a varnish which can be readily applied to the 
nail and which yields a glassy film of good quality capable of being 
peeled off. 
The present invention is thus drawn to a cosmetic composition for 
application to the nail, comprising as a film-forming agent an aqueous 
dispersion of particles of at least one polyurethane and of at least one 
radical-polymerization polymer containing carboxyl groups, wherein the 
polyurethane has a glass transition temperature (Tg) less than or equal to 
30.degree. C., and 
wherein, when the glass transition temperature of the polyurethane is 
greater than 0.degree. C., the radical-polymerization polymer or mixture 
of radical-polymerization polymers has a minimum film-forming temperature 
(MFT) less than or equal to 30.degree. C. and/or is present in an amount 
of from 5 to 60%, and 
wherein, when the glass transition temperature of the polyurethane is less 
than 0.degree. C., the radical-polymerization polymer or mixture of 
radical-polymerization polymers is present in an amount of from 5 to 70%. 
One advantage of the present invention is that it enables a hard and glassy 
homogeneous film to be obtained which adheres well to the nail, covering 
it perfectly while being capable of being peeled off. 
Another advantage of the invention is that it enables a nail varnish 
containing little or no plasticizer or coalescing agent to be obtained. 
Tg is understood in the description below to mean the glass transition 
temperature of the polyurethane. 
MFT is understood in the description below to mean the minimum temperature 
at which film forms for the radical-polymerization polymer or mixture of 
radical-polymerization polymers. 
Percentages are given by weight, i.e., by weight of the composition, except 
where otherwise stated. 
The compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they 
comprise an aqueous dispersion of a mixture of particles of at least one 
polyurethane and of at least one radical-polymerization polymer containing 
carboxyl groups, it being necessary for the polyurethanes and 
radical-polymerization polymers to satisfy certain physicochemical 
conditions so that a suitable film forms from the aqueous dispersions on 
the nail. 
It has, in effect, been noted that, depending on the type of polyurethane 
and/or radical-polymerization polymers employed, it either is or is not 
possible to obtain a correct film capable of being peeled off. 
Only the compositions according to the invention enable a film displaying 
the necessary satisfactory qualities to be obtained on the nail. 
In order to prepare the compositions according to the invention, an aqueous 
dispersion is prepared comprising particles of polyurethane and of 
radical-polymerization polymers containing carboxyl groups, for example by 
simply mixing an aqueous dispersion of polyurethane and an aqueous 
dispersion of radical-polymerization polymers, or by direct formation of a 
dispersion of a mixture of particles of polyurethane and of 
radical-polymerization polymers. 
The aqueous dispersion of polyurethane can be, for example, an aqueous 
dispersion of anionic polyurethane, of polyester polyurethane and/or 
polyether polyurethane, alone or mixed, which can possess a dry matter 
content of 20-40%. 
The polyurethane, or polyurethane mixture, employed must, however, possess 
a glass transition temperature (Tg) less than or equal to approximately 
30.degree. C. 
The aqueous dispersion of radical-polymerization polymers may be chosen 
from all aqueous dispersions of acrylic, acrylic/styrene and vinyl 
polymers and/or copolymers, the dispersion preferably possessing a dry 
matter content of 30-50%. As is self-evident, the term 
"radical-polymerization polymer" as used herein means a polymer obtained 
by radical addition polymerization. 
When the Tg of the polyurethane employed ranges from about 0.degree. C. to 
30.degree. C., and preferably from 15.degree. C. to 25.degree. C., a 
radical-polymerization polymer or mixture of radical-polymerization 
polymers whose MFT is less than or equal to approximately 30.degree. C. is 
chosen. In this case, a composition according to the invention containing 
5-95% of dispersion of polyurethane and 5-95% of dispersion of 
radical-polymerization polymers can be prepared. 
If it is not desired to employ a radical-polymerization polymer or mixture 
of radical-polymerization polymers whose MFT is less than or equal to 
30.degree. C., the content of the dispersion of radical-polymerization 
polymers in the composition may not exceed 60% by weight. Preferably, the 
content ranges from 35% to 60%. 
When the Tg of the polyurethane is less than 0.degree. C., and preferably 
from -15.degree. C. to -5.degree. C., the content of the dispersion of 
radical-polymerization polymers in the composition may not exceed 70% by 
weight, and preferably may not exceed 50% to 70% by weight. 
It is preferable to prepare cosmetic compositions containing from 10 to 60% 
of polymer particles in the dispersed state. 
Thickening agents, for example, hydroxyethyl cellulose or a cellulose 
derivative, a clay, a silicate or a silica derivative, a synthetic polymer 
such as a radical-polymerization polymer or an associative polymer of the 
polyurethane type, or a natural gum such as xanthan gum, may be added to 
the cosmetic composition in an amount of from 0.01 to 5%. 
Standard additives such as spreading agents, wetting agents, dispersing 
agents, antifoams, preservatives, UV screening agents, active agents, 
moisturizers, alcohols, and inorganic or organic pigments alone or mixed, 
may also be added to the composition. 
A cosmetic composition to be spread on the nail is thereby obtained. This 
composition preferably possesses a dry matter content of 10-60% which can 
comprise approximately 1-40% of dry matter of polyurethane and 1-50% of 
dry matter of radical-polymerization polymers. 
The cosmetic composition thereby obtained spreads readily on the nail and, 
after drying, enables a hard and glassy film of good quality to be 
obtained on the nail, and which can be readily peeled off in a single 
piece. 
This cosmetic composition can be used as a base for a solvent varnish, so 
as to permit the removal of make-up from the nail by simply peeling off 
without using a solvent. It can also, if it contains pigments, be used as 
a coloured varnish capable of being peeled off. 
When it contains active agents, the composition can be employed as a 
treatment base for the nail. Among active agents which may be envisaged, 
vitamins, keratin and its hydrolysates, melanin, trace elements, glycerol 
and any other active agent capable of being envisaged by a person skilled 
in the art may be mentioned.

The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the examples which 
follow. The examples are not intended to be limiting, but merely 
ilustrative. 
EXAMPLE 1 
Several aqueous dispersions of particles of polyurethane having variable Tg 
values and of radical-polymerization polymers having variable MFT values, 
in variable proportions, were prepared by simply mixing a dispersion of 
polyurethane and a dispersion of radical-polymerization polymers and 
stirring for approximately 30 minutes at room temperature. 
The dispersions thereby obtained were applied to the nail, and the film 
formed observed. 
______________________________________ 
Polymers employed: 
______________________________________ 
polyurethane, Tg -10.degree. C.: 
dispersion of aliphatic 
anionic polyurethane 
IW/010.1 (UCB), containing 
35% of dry matter 
polyurethane, Tg 21.degree. C.: 
dispersion of aliphatic 
anionic polyurethane 
IW/019.1 (UCB), containing 
35% of dry matter 
polyurethane, Tg 36.degree. C.: 
dispersion of aliphatic 
anionic polyurethane 
IW/028.1 of (UCB), 
containing 35% of dry matter 
radical-polymerization, 
dispersion of 
MFT 12.degree. C.: 
acrylic/styrene Joncryl 77 
(Johnson), containing 46% of 
dry matter 
radical-polymerization, 
dispersion of acrylic 
MFT 35.degree. C.: 
Luhydran A848S (BASF), 
containing 45% of dry matter 
radical-polymerization, 
dispersion of 
MFT 53.degree. C.: 
acrylic/styrene Neocryl XK 
63 (ICI), containing 44% of 
dry matter 
radical-polymerization, 
dispersion of 
MFT 86.degree. C. 
acrylic/styrene Joncryl 90 
(Johnson), containing 44% of 
dry matter 
The following results 
were obtained: 
dry extract: dry matter content of the 
dispersion before application 
%: % of dispersion of polyurethane 
or of dispersion of radical- 
polymerization polymers in the 
mixture. 
______________________________________ 
______________________________________ 
Radical- dry 
Polyurethane 
polymerization polymer 
extract film 
Tg (.degree.C.) 
% MFT (.degree.C.) 
% % forming 
______________________________________ 
-10 30 35 70 35 yes 
-10 20 86 80 35 no 
" 30 " 70 35 yes 
" 50 " 50 35 yes 
21 20 12 80 35 yes 
" 70 " 30 35 yes 
21 20 35 80 35 no 
" 40 " 60 35 limiting* 
" 50 " 50 35 yes 
21 20 53 80 35 no 
" 40 " 60 35 no 
" 50 " 50 35 yes 
21 5 86 95 40 no 
" 40 " 60 11 no 
" 50 " 50 35 yes 
" 60 " 40 16 yes 
36 20 12 80 35 no 
" 40 " 60 35 no 
" 60 " 40 35 no 
" 70 " 30 35 no 
36 40 35 60 35 no 
" 80 " 20 35 no 
36 40 86 60 11 no 
" 60 " 40 16 no 
" 70 " 30 35 no 
" 80 " 20 35 no 
" 90 " 10 35 no 
______________________________________ 
*"limiting" means film was not totally formed. 
Hence it is seen that, depending on the Tg of the polyurethane employed, it 
is possible to obtain a correct film or no film at all. 
When the Tg was greater than about 30.degree. C., it was no longer possible 
to obtain good film formation on the nail. 
When the Tg was below 30.degree. C. but above 0.degree. C., a satisfactory 
film was obtained when the MFT of the radical-polymerization polymer was 
less than or equal to about 30.degree. C., or when the content of 
dispersion of polyurethane was greater than 40%. Furthermore, when the Tg 
of the polyurethane was below approximately 0.degree. C., the content of 
aqueous dispersion of radical-polymerization polymers could not be more 
than 70%. 
This example demonstrates the fact that not all mixtures of a dispersion of 
polyurethane with a dispersion of radical-polymerization polymer enable a 
correct film to be obtained, but that only the mixtures as defined by the 
invention permit perfect film formation and enable a suitable varnish to 
be obtained. 
EXAMPLE 2 
A nail varnish having the following composition was prepared: 
______________________________________ 
aqueous dispersion of aliphatic anionic polyurethane 
56 g 
1W/019.1 (UCB), Tg &lt;30.degree. C., 35% of dry matter 
aqueous dispersion of anionic acrylic 
19 g 
polymer NEOCRYL XK 90 (ICI), MFT: 18.degree. C., 
dry matter: 44.3% 
polyurethane associative thickener 
0.8 g 
Ser AD FX 1100 (Servo) 
spreading agent KF 355A (Shin Etsu) 
0.5 g 
pigments 1.5 g 
propylene glycol 0.2 g 
water 22.2 g 
______________________________________ 
All the constituents were mixed at room temperature, and the mixture was 
stirred for approximately 30 minutes so as to obtain a homogeneous 
composition. 
A varnish was obtained which had a dry matter content of 28%, which could 
be spread easily on the nail and, after drying, enabled a glassy film of 
satisfactory hardness and appearance to be obtained. 
This film was readily peeled off in a single piece. 
EXAMPLE 3 
A nail varnish having the following composition is prepared according to 
Example 2: 
______________________________________ 
aqueous dispersion of aliphatic polyester 
59.4 g 
polyurethane Neorez R 981 (Zeneca Resins), 
Tg &lt;30.degree. C., dry matter: 33% 
aqueous dispersion of styrene/anionic 
20.0 g 
acrylic copolymer Neocryl XK 62 (ICI), 
TMF: 30.degree. C., dry matter: 42% 
polyurethane associative thickener 
1.25 g 
Ser AD FX 1010 (Servo) 
spreading agent KF 355A (Shin Etsu) 
0.5 g 
pigments 1.5 g 
water 17.45 g 
______________________________________ 
A varnish was thereby obtained which had a dry matter content of 28%, which 
could be readily spread on the nail so as to obtain, after drying, a film 
of glassy appearance and satisfactory hardness, and which was readily 
peeled off. 
EXAMPLE 4 
A varnish was prepared identical to that of Example 3, but free from 
pigments. A colourless base was thereby obtained, which was readily 
applied to the nail. 
After drying, this base was covered with a standard solvent varnish, and 
the said varnish was allowed to dry for a few minutes. 
The make-up was then removed from the nail by peeling off the colourless 
base layer, which then carried off the solvent varnish and enabled a clean 
nail to be obtained.