Manufacture of knitted synthetic fur fabric

Process technology is provided for making a synthetic fur piece from a sliver knit, high pile, differentially transversely knitted, longitudinally patterned, unstabilized starting fabric having a pile containing heat shrinkable fibers. The process involves stabilizing the starting fabric, contour shearing same, and then further processing the resulting sheared fabric under conditions which result in heat shrinking of the heat shrinkable pile fibers therein. The preferred product is a synthetic fur piece comprised of seemingly seamed together animal pelts. Various finishing operations typically and preferably are performable upon such a product to enhance fur-like properties and to simulate the appearance and qualities of specific desired animal furs, such as, for example, mink.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
Knitted pile fabrics made on circular knitting machines have become well 
known, and efforts have previously been made to produce synthetic fur 
pieces comprised of fabric knitted on a circular knitting machine. So long 
as the product synthetic fur piece so knitted has a uniform texture, it 
was possible by prior art technology to produce simulated fur products 
which have reasonable aesthetic appearance, excellent wear properties, and 
commercial practicality. 
However, when it is desired to closely simulate in a deep pile fabric made 
on a circular knitting machine a synthetic fur piece comprised of 
seemingly seamed together animal pelts wherein the individual pelts are 
longitudinally aligned relative to one another, have individually 
discernible, predetermined Gratzens, and have non-uniform textures 
(including fur fiber length variations), severe manufacturing problems 
arise which heretofore had no practical solutions. For one thing, to make 
such a synthetic fur piece, it is necessary to have the pile fiber blend 
vary systematically (as respects not only color, but also fiber type and 
local content) by a predetermined program extending from fabric wale to 
wale during the knitting operation in order to simulate the actual 
variations which occur in pelt characteristics. For another thing, it is 
necessary to use fabric blends which can be subsequently processed 
preferably in a continuous or semi-continuous manner following the actual 
knitting operation so as to produce a product processed fabric resembling 
such a desired synthetic fur piece whose exterior surface portions (or 
pile) varies in local density and is comprised of fibers of variable 
color, length and thickness, thereby to simulate an actual predetermined 
animal fur. 
Modern circular knitting machines are designed to provide the capability of 
knitting complex pile patterns through the use of electromechanical and 
mechanical systems which can be computer controlled so that systematic 
pile pattern variations from wale to wale, suitable for the use in 
manufacturing synthetic fur pieces, can be achieved. However, such a 
knitting manufacturing capability does not begin to solve the problem of 
manufacturing fabrics resembling such a synthetic fur piece because of the 
necessity to perform subsequent processing thereupon. 
Thus, in the deep pile knitted fabric art, for practical purposes, it is 
generally considered necessary to coat or impregnate the back of a knit 
product with some sort of coating composition which, typically with 
subsequent heating, tends to render the product fabric dimensionally 
stable, and also to give it durability by bonding the individual tufts of 
pile fiber into the substrate backing so that the product does not shed 
very easily, and so that the individual pile fibers are not easily plucked 
out of the stitches of the fabric backing. 
In the case of synthetic fur fabrics with non-uniform transverse 
characteristics, it is desirable to employ a knitted deep pile fiber blend 
which utilizes, as a portion thereof, heat shrinkable fibers which heat 
shrink longitudinally within specified temperature ranges. Through the use 
of such heat shrinkable fibers, combined with suitable processing, it 
becomes possible to produce a product synthetic fur piece wherein the 
individual fibers of the pile have differential lengths, such as is 
characteristic of virtually all animal pelts. A problem arises in 
dimensionally stabilizing a freshly knit pile fabric through back coating 
because coating compositions commonly require subsequent application of 
elevated temperatures which are in the range of the temperatures employed 
for accomplishing heat shrinking of heat shrinkable fibers. Obviously, if 
the heat shrinkable fibers in a deep pile fabric are heat shrunk at an 
undesirable point in the manufacture of a synthetic fur piece, it is not 
possible to complete a sequence of post-knitting processing steps needed 
to complete the manufacture of a pelted fabric. 
In addition, in the manufacture of knitted fabrics resembling natural fur 
pelts, it is desirable to contour shear the surface of the deep pile 
thereof so that its surface contour has the appearance of sewn together 
animal pelts of variable fur depth, as is typical of whatever type of 
animal fur one is trying to mimic in a given product fabric. 
It was previously possible to accomplish uniform shearing of knitted 
fabrics in a continuous manner by passing of pre-formed deep pile knitted 
fabric beneath a rotating cylindrical member whose circumferential face 
has portions thereof so contoured that a desirable shearing is 
accomplished in such a pre-formed fabric. Rotating blades are located 
along the circumferential surfaces of the rotating cylindrical member, 
and, when it rotates, it cuts against a stationary knife very much in the 
manner of operation of a conventional type reel lawn mower. Typically, in 
the deep pile fabric manufacturing art, the actual knives associated with 
the rotating cylindrical member are put in at an angle so that, instead of 
just shearing, they also cut. To accomplish this action, the cross section 
through the knives typically presents an angle of knife cutting relative 
to the stationary blade, or so-called ledger blade, whereas, on a reel 
type lawn mower, the knives are typically almost sectioned so that 
individual blades pass substantially through the center of the arbour. At 
any rate, the rotating arbour has, in the cylindrical member employed for 
deep pile fabric processing, a plurality of cutting edges on it which 
rotate past, and in close proximity to, and even in some applications 
actually contact, a fixed ledger blade. 
In such uniform shearing, the distance of the rest from the ledger blade 
was, until recently, held constant, and determined the length of the pile, 
which was thus always uniform. A recent invention provides a contoured 
rest of cylindrical shearing apparatus so that different predetermined 
portions of the pile of a fabric are spaced farther from the arbour and 
the ledger blade by the use of such a contoured rest during a shearing 
operation, thereby making it possible to contour shear a deep pile fabric 
differentially in a direction extending transversely across the fabric 
relative to the direction of fabric movement through such contour shearing 
apparatus. Such a contour shearing apparatus is shown in Norman C. Alber 
U.S. application Ser. No. 719,017, filed Aug. 30, 1976, now U.S. Pat. No. 
4,102,023, granted July 15, 1978. 
During contour shearing of a patterned deep pile fabric which has been 
stabilized, the fabric is registered and aligned with the contour shearing 
apparatus so as to control location of contour shearing relative to the 
pattern in the fabric. In order to be continuously contour sheared, a 
patterned deep pile fabric of a type and quality suitable for use in 
making fabrics resembling natural fur pelts must be sufficiently 
dimensionally stable to experience processing through such a contour 
shearing apparatus. If a deep pile fabric being contour sheared is 
insufficiently dimensionally stable, a regular pattern repeat is not 
achieved where it is desired in relation to the contour shearing. An Abler 
contour shear rest is a passive element, in effect, so that a fabric moves 
over it, in a continuous shearing operation, and conforms to the contour 
of the rest. Thus, one must first not only dimensionally stabilize and 
lock the pile into the backing of a given deep pile sliver knit fabric to 
be contour sheared, but also achieve such a dimensional stabilization 
without causing the heat shrinkable fiber of the pile to shrink. 
So far as is known, no one has heretofore succeeded in producing a sliver 
knit pile fabric product comprising of seemingly seamed together animal 
pelts which fabric product has undergone contour shearing in good register 
prior to heat shrinking of pile fibers contained therein. 
BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
The present invention provides in one aspect a deep pile knitted fabric 
product which has been contour sheared yet which has at least two 
different lengths of fibers in the pile thereof. 
In another aspect, this invention provides a simulated fur piece comprising 
seemingly seamed together animal pelts. Each pelt of such simulated fur 
piece has a Gratzen extending generally centrally and longitudinally 
therethrough which Gratzen is commonly darker in color and thicker in 
texture than adjoining pelt areas thereof. Also, each such pelt has 
simulated guard hairs and simulated body hairs, such as are common to real 
pelts derived from natural fur bearing animals. 
In another aspect, the present invention provides a process for making such 
knitted fabric products. The process employs as a starting material a high 
pile, unstabilized starting fabric which is preferably differentially 
transversely sliver knit, and preferably longitudinally patterned. Such 
pile contains heat shrinkable fibers. By the process, such a starting 
fabric is dimensionally stabilized without appreciably heat shrinking the 
heat shrinkable pile fibers, contour sheared, and finally heated to heat 
shrinkable pile fiber heat shrinking temperatures.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION 
In a first step, one tensions both transversely and longitudinally a 
previously dimensionally unstabilized, knitted (preferably sliver), pile 
starting fabric. The amount of the expansion through tensioning in any 
given case can vary. Compared to the relaxed starting fabric, one 
typically expands the length thereof from 0 to about 30%, and changes the 
width thereof from about -30% to +30%. Compared to the untensioned 
starting fabric, the resulting tensioned fabric has been expanded in 
either the length or the width thereof to a minimum extent of at least 
about 10%. Preferably equal expansion longitudinally and transversely is 
accomplished. Typical and preferred transverse expansions range from about 
15 to 25%, although tensioning does not necessarily result in expansion. 
The means for expansion can be a tenter frame, or the like, as desired. 
Preferred tenter frames are those of the type which operate continuously 
so that a given starting fabric can be continuously tensioned and moved 
past one or more of a plurality of processing stations. Continuous tenter 
frames are known to the art and do not as such constitute a part of the 
present invention. 
In general, a starting fabric employed in the practice of the present 
invention has a back comprised of yarn having a denier ranging from about 
150 to 600. The pile of the starting fabric is comprised of fibers 
extending from about 1/8 to 2 inches in height over the backing. The pile 
is comprised, on a 100 weight percent total pile basis, of from about 10 
to 90 weight percent of heat shrinkable fibers with the balance up to 100 
weight percent thereof being thermally stable fibers. Characteristically, 
the heat shrinkable fibers are heat shrinkable at a heat shrinking 
temperature which typically ranges from about 200.degree. to 350.degree. 
F. and characteristically and preferably the heat shrinkage is obtained at 
heat shrinking temperatures within determinable heat shrinking times. 
Typically, at the heat shrinking temperatures indicated, the heat 
shrinking times range from about 1 to 5 minutes. 
In a starting fabric, the weight ratio of pile fiber to backing yarn ranges 
from about 2.5:1 to 16:1. Also, in a starting fabric, there are 
characteristically from about 10 to 24 wales per inch and from about 17 to 
42 courses per inch. 
In a preferred class of starting fabric materials usable in the practice of 
the present invention, one selects and employs a sliver knit, high pile, 
differentially transversely knitted, longitudinally patterned, 
unstabilized starting fabric having a pile containing heat shrinkable 
fibers. Such a fabric and methods for its manufacture are described in 
copending U.S. patent application Ser. No. 911,422 filed on even date 
herewith in the names of Guy N. Kieckhefer and Brady T. Grubbs as 
co-inventors and assigned to a common assignee. Each pattern in such a 
pile of such a preferred starting fabric is preferably chosen to resemble 
an animals fur with individual animals being in a longitudinally aligned 
relationship to one another in the starting knitted pile fabric. 
Such a preferred starting fabric has a backing comprised of longitudinally 
dimensionally stable and thermally stable yarn. Such backing preferably 
contains from about 8 to 24 wales per inch. Typical and preferred backing 
yarns have deniers in the range from about 150 to 600. Examples of 
suitable backing yarns include spun polyester, slit film olefins, filament 
olefins, and the like. Physical and chemical characteristics of backing 
yarns usable in the practice of this invention can vary widely, the values 
being used in any given case being dependent upon variables such as 
availability, cost and the like, typically. Commonly, backing yarns have 
an elongation at break of at least about 10%, a yarn tenacity of at least 
about 4 grams per denier, and a specific gravity of at least about 0.9. 
Commonly also such a backing yarn has from about 1 to 2 turns per inch. Of 
course, yarns having other physical characteristics can be used in the 
practice of this invention without departing from the spirit and scope 
thereof, as those skilled in the art will appreciate. 
The pile of such a preferred starting fabric is generally characterized by 
having a height above the backing ranging from about 1/4 to 2 inches. The 
weight ratio of pile to backing ranges from about 2.5:1 to 16:1. 
Preferably such weight ratio ranges from about 3:1 to 10:1. Preferably, 
such contains 10 to 50 weight % heat shrinkable fibers. 
Broadly, the pile of such preferred starting fabric is comprised of from 
about 10 to 90 weight percent of heat shrinkable fibers with the balance 
up to 100 weight percent thereof being non-heat shrinkable fibers. The 
heat shrinkable fibers preferably have a heat shrinkability such that at 
temperatures in the range of from about 250.degree. to 310.degree. F. 
shrinkage longitudinally of from about 10 to 60 percent occurs within a 
preferred heat shrinkage time ranging from about 2 to 4 minutes. Commonly 
heat shrinkable fibers in such preferred starting fabric have deniers 
ranging from about 1.5 to 50 although denier is a relatively unimportant 
factor for purposes of the present invention as those skilled in the art 
will appreciate. Natural animal fur appears to vary over an extremely wide 
range as respects denier. It is known, for example, that one species of 
mink is characterized by hair having denier variations of approximately 
from perhaps 1 to 90 denier in a single animal pelt. 
Thermally stable fibers employed in the pile of such a preferred starting 
fabric typically and preferably have lengths initially in the range of 
from about 1/4 to 2 inches and deniers in the range of from about 3 to 50, 
though, as indicated above, the denier of the pile fibers is a relatively 
unimportant consideration in the practice of the present invention. 
Examples of suitable thermally stable fibers include acrylics, modified 
acrylics, polyesters, polyamides, and the like. 
In such a preferred starting fabric, two or more different kinds of heat 
shrinkable fibers, and two or more different kinds of thermally stable 
fibers may be employed. In such preferred fabric, matters such as local 
fiber color, fabric pattern, pile variations (longitudinally or 
transversely) within an individual pile pattern from pattern repeat to 
pattern repeat, of course, as those skilled in the art will appreciate, 
can vary widely depending upon the particular type of effect desired. For 
example, perhaps a desired preferred pattern has no resemblance to any 
known or naturally occurring animal fur. 
For example, one type of a more preferred such starting fabric uses a pile 
comprised of at least two different classes of heat shrinkable fibers. 
Thus, the composition of one such type of heat shrinkable fiber has a heat 
shrinkability typically in the range of from about 10 to 20% with deniers 
in the range of from about 1.5 to 6. A second class of heat shrinkable 
fibers has a heat shrinkability in the range of from about 18 to 35% and 
has a denier in the range of from about 3 to 12. The relative ratio of 
such first class to such second class of heat shrinkable fibers (in terms 
of weight percent based on 100 weight percent total such heat shrinkable 
fibers) can range from about 4:6 to 6:4 in any given fabric. The 
respective colors of such fiber classes can be mixed, or not, as desired 
for a particular pattern effect. A single class of thermally stable fibers 
can, of course, be used with such mixture of heat shrinkable fibers, or 
otherwise, if desired. 
In one preferred type of pile fiber composition for use in a preferred 
starting fabric employed in the practice of the present invention, three 
different types of fibers are employed. The characteristics of the 
respective components in such a pile blend are shown in Table 1 below: 
TABLE I 
______________________________________ 
FIBER 
FIBER HEAT 
COM- SHRINK RELATIVE RELATIVE* 
PONENT ABILITY DIAMETER POPULATION 
______________________________________ 
A High shrink 
(20-25% shrink) 
2.5D N .times. 6 
B Moderate shrink 
(10-15% shrink) 
1.8D N .times. 2 
C Stabilized no shrink 
(3% shrink) D N 
______________________________________ 
*N designates the total weight of all pile fibers. 
The starting fabrics useful in the practice of this invention are 
preferably prepared upon circular knitting machines wherein one circularly 
knits a deep pile fabric structure having characteristics as above 
described. The resulting tubular structure has circumferentially 
incrementally variable differences and a longitudinally extending pattern. 
A given pattern can have both circumferential and longitudinal variations 
therein so as to simulate a given animal fur or pelt arrangement, as 
desired. After the fabric has been knitted, it is longitudinally slit. 
Within a given deep pile fabric structure, differences in pile fabric 
composition can occur circumferentially (transversely in the slit fabric) 
from one location to another. For example, the edges of a given pelt 
simulation are typically whitish or light colored in comparison to the 
dark or central Gratzen region although any particular color combination 
with respect to color gradations between Gratzen and edge pelt portions 
can be achieved, as desired. The transverse width of a pattern repeat in a 
starting fabric can vary widely. In the case of one type of preferred 
starting materials, the pattern repeat is in the range typically of from 
about 10 to 200 (preferably from about 25 to 40) wales; though larger and 
smaller numbers of wales may be included within an individual pattern, as 
desired, as those skilled in the art will appreciate. 
One preferred class of starting fabrics useful in the present invention 
employs a pile comprised of from about 45 to 70 percent, on a total pile 
weight basis, of acrylic fibers. Of these fibers, about 20 to 40 weight 
percent thereof are of the heat shrinkable acrylic type having a denier of 
from about 2 to 5 (the percentage of such fiber being expressed on a 100 
weight percent total pile fiber weight basis). Similarly, on the same 
weight basis, of such total weight percentage of acrylics, about 5 to 15 
weight percent thereof is comprised of acrylic fibers having a denier of 
about 8 and such fibers are substantially not heat shrinkable. 
In addition to the acrylic fibers present, such pile may contain from about 
10 to 50 weight percent, on a total pile fiber composition weight basis of 
modified acrylic fibers having a denier of from about 12 to 40, such 
modified acrylic fibers being substantially not heat shrinkable. 
Furthermore, such a pile fiber composition also contains from about 10 to 
50 weight percent of modified acrylic fibers which are not heat shrinkable 
(on a total pile composition weight basis) but have deniers in the range 
of from about 12 to 40. Bright or dull fibers may be employed. In such 
composition, the initial length of the fibers ranges typically from about 
1/2 to 3 inches in preferred starting fibers. 
While characteristically natural fibers can be employed in the pile of 
fabric used in the practice of this invention, it is preferred now that 
synthetic fibers be employed because of the controllability in the 
selection of the characteristics of such fibers that is possible through 
the use of synthetic fibers in the pile from the standpoint of knitting 
machines. 
After being prepared, and before use in the practice of the present 
invention, a starting fabric may be interveningly stored. 
Typically, and by way of example, a starting fabric used in the practice of 
the present invention may have, in its initial relaxed state, a width 
ranging from about 48 to 72 inches, although widths larger and smaller can 
be employed. The width of individual pattern repeats transversely across 
such a starting fabric preferably ranges from about 2 to 4.5 inches, but 
the transverse width of a pattern repeat can vary widely. Preferably, a 
given starting fabric has at least 3 pattern repeats, and may possibly 
have as many as 50 or more pattern repeats, depending upon the width 
thereof, as those skilled in the art will appreciate. It is not, however, 
necessary for a starting fabric to have a pattern repeat since the 
advantages and practice of the present invention are applicable to 
starting fabrics which do not contain any longitudinally extending 
patterns having a transverse pattern repeat characteristic, although 
starting fabrics having a pattern repeat transversely are preferred. 
To the surface of the back of a starting fabric so tensioned one uniformly 
applies a first coating composition. Such first coating composition is 
comprised of an organic polymeric material which has a glass transition 
temperature not above about 0.degree. C. (and preferably not above about 
-15.degree. C.) Such organic polymeric material is capable of bonding to 
the back of the fabric after application thereto when such combination of 
backing and organic polymeric material are heated together to a first 
temperature which is below the heat shrinking temperature of the heat 
shrinkable fibers within a time interval which is within the range of from 
about 1 to 5 minutes, typically. 
After undergoing such a heating, the polymeric material and the first 
coating composition functions to dimensionally stabilize a fabric so 
treated to an extent sufficient to prevent such fabric from recovering 
from its so tensioned configuration downwards (as respects transverse 
width and longitudinal length beyond a predetermined value, particularly 
as respects a predetermined transverse width when the tensioning is 
subsequently removed. The reason for such predetermined transverse width 
will become apparent herein below. 
After application of the first coating composition to the back of the 
tensioned fabric, one heats the resulting coated fabric backing to such a 
first temperature for such a time sufficient to achieve the desired 
bonding between polymeric material and fabric backing with the fabric 
being so tensioned. Typical first heating temperatures range from about 
250.degree. to 300.degree. C., and thus are below the temperature at which 
any appreciable amount of heat shrinkage of heat shrinkable fibers occurs. 
After the heating, the fabric is de-tensioned, that is, the initial 
tensioning is removed, preferably after the fabric is cooled. 
The resulting fabric is now subjected to a contour shearing operation. In 
such a contour shearing operation, a series of steps are simultaneously 
performed upon such resulting fabric. Thus, one step involves passing the 
resulting fabric longitudinally through a contour shearing zone extending 
transversely across the resulting fabric. The transverse width of the 
contour shearing zone is equal to the above indicated predetermined 
transverse width. 
Concurrently with such passing, one longitudinally tensions transversely 
the resulting fabric. The amount of longitudinal tensioning applied to the 
fabric is sufficient to draw down the transverse width thereof, if 
necessary, to an extent sufficient to cause the resulting width of the 
fabric to be substantially equal to such predetermined width (or, in 
effect, equal to the transverse width of such contour shearing zone). The 
effect of such passing and such longitudinal tensioning is such as to 
achieve a predetermined registration between contours in the contour 
shearing zone and the pile fabric; for example, a desired registration 
between contours in the contour shearing zone and respective individual 
pattern repeats in the resulting fabric being subjected to contour 
shearing. 
Concurrently with such a passing and such a longitudinal tensioning, 
contour shearing of the pile of the resulting fabric is carried out. 
As indicated above, contour shearing is preferably carried out in 
accordance with the practices of the present invention using a contour 
shear device of the type described and shown in the above referenced Abler 
U.S. Pat. No. 4,102,023. 
The resulting so contour sheared fabric is, if desired, interveningly 
stored before being subjected to a processing operation. In general, such 
subsequent processing involves a second heating operation in which 
simultaneously another series of steps is carried out. Thus, in such 
second heating operation, one heats the so-contour sheared fabric to the 
heat shrinking temperatures of the heat shrinkable fibers for their heat 
shrinking times, which are as indicated above. 
Concurrently, one tensions transversely and longitudinally the so contour 
sheared fabric to an extent sufficient to expand the respective lengths 
and breadths thereof to values approximately and preferably corresponding 
to those used in the initial tensioning (relative to the initial relaxed 
state of the starting fabric). In general, the preferences and conditions 
of tensioning can be as described above for the first or initial 
tensioning. For purposes of tensioning, one can employ here a tenter 
frame, preferably a continuously movable tenter frame, as before. 
Concurrently with such second heating and second tensioning, one maintains 
the contour sheared pile of the contour sheared fabric in a free state. By 
the term "free state", reference is had to the fact that the exposed 
surface of the pile is not permitted to contact any solid object while 
being so secondly heated and so secondly tensioned in order to avoid any 
possibility of giving to the fabric pile fiber a set, crease, or the like, 
which would be undesired. 
By the above indicated sequence of processing steps, for the first time, it 
is possible to achieve a product knitted pile fabric which has been 
contour sheared and wherein the individual fibers of the pile thereof do 
not have a flattened, uniform surface transversely across the width of the 
product fabric. In addition to important decorative effects for use in the 
manufacture of striped fabrics for upholstery, clothing and the like 
(whether or not such are patterned or have different colors transversely 
across the width thereof), the present invention is particularly well 
suited for the manufacture of knitted pile fabrics wherein the pile 
thereof has an appearance which resembles a seemingly seamed together 
group of longitudinally aligned animal pelts, each of the pelts having a 
Gratzen extending longitudinally therethrough. The Gratzen can be of any 
desired configuration or type. One preferred type of Gratzen is generally 
darker in color and thicker in texture than adjoining areas thereof. Each 
of the pelts in such knitted pile fabric has simulated guard hairs and 
simulated base hairs. 
In the practice of this invention, it will be appreciated that individual 
pieces of a starting fabric can be spliced or otherwise bound together 
longitudinally so that a continuous mode of practicing the present 
invention can be carried out with an endless loop of starting fabric. In 
carrying out the back coating operation above described, any convenient 
coating procedure and coating apparatus may be employed, though preferably 
continuous coating techniques are utilized. Knife coating involving a 
doctor blade, and roller coating involving a roller are presently 
preferred, coating techniques. 
In one convenient present mode, the back face of the starting fabric is 
turned upwards and a knife coater is extended transversely across the 
longitudinally continuously moving starting fabric which is tensioned as 
above described. A reservoir of a liquid or foamed coating composition is 
continuously deposited upon the moving fabric behind or in front of a 
knife blade whose surface engages at some convenient vertical pressure the 
surface of the fabric moving therebeneath. Conveniently, the knife blade 
trails behind the reservoir of coating composition relative to the 
direction of fabric movement and the knife blade tensioning is such as to 
provide for a technique of controlling the amount of coating composition 
deposited upon the fabric back being coated. The reservoir or well which 
leads the coating blade is continuously supplied with coating composition 
with the fabric web being mounted on a tenter frame with the backing side 
up and the pile side down. A coating is thus applied directly upon the web 
from the bottom of the well immediately ahead of the blade wiping the web. 
The wiping action forces the coating composition into the web and also 
enables one to meter the amount of coating composition applied to and into 
the web. The well aids in leveling the coating composition so that a 
uniform application and distribution of coating composition transversely 
across a fabric web is achieved during a coating operation. The particular 
fabric web being coated is backed up or supported underneath on its bottom 
or pile side by some means, such as a blade member 25a (see FIG. 7) which 
is stationary, or a roller member 76a (see FIG. 10.) which revolves, with 
the circumference of the roller thereof moving in the direction of pile 
fabric web translation. Thus, the wiper blade on the top against the back 
surface of the fabric has a base against which to exert a pressure. 
Preferably, some degree of force is exerted by the wiper blade upon the 
pile fiber, but the degree of force exerted is generally less than that 
which will cause an actual movement of the pile or the fabric through 
direct application of the blade thereto. Such a coating apparatus is known 
to the prior art and does not as such constitute a point of novelty in the 
practice of the present invention. 
Coating compositions useful in the practice of the present invention are 
characterized by having the capacity, as indicated above, when dried, to 
stiffen and dimensionally stabilize the backing of a pile fabric used in 
the practice of the present invention. Preferred coating compositions are 
in the form of a liquid. Conveniently, the liquid can be employed as such 
or in a foamed condition. After the coating composition is applied, as 
described above, the so-coated back surface of the fabric is exposed to 
temperatures which are sufficient to remove the volatile components of the 
coating composition, such as water or other solvent used as a fluid 
carrier for the coating composition. Also, in the case of some polymeric 
materials, this heating affords the polymer a chance to develop a bond 
between portions of the fabric and the polymer thereby to improve the 
dimensional stability characteristics of the resulting so-coated and heat 
treated fabric system. 
Preferably, the resulting so coated and heated fabric, relative to a 
starting fabric, is stiffened and stabilized dimensionally to such an 
extent that the fabric no longer tends to contract appreciably in 
transverse and longitudinal directions when tensioning forces are removed 
therefrom following coating and heating. 
If desired, the coating composition employed can be one of the type which 
contains a curing agent. During the initial heating, the curing agent 
optionally may or may not chemically operate to cross link the coating 
composition. At the present time it is believed that a cross linking 
should preferably occur during the second heating operation after the 
fabric has been contour sheared as described above. 
Many different coating compositions known to the prior art appear to be 
suitable for use in the practice of the present invention. At the present 
time, preferred coating compositions are in the form of aqueous solutions, 
emulsions, dispersions, or the like containing therein a desired polymeric 
material. The polymeric material can be in the form of homopolymer or 
copolymer. Preferably the starting polymer has not yet been cross linked 
if it is cross linkable. Blends of different polymers can be employed 
which may or may not be reactable with one another under the conditions of 
practicing the technology of the present invention. One class of suitable 
polymers comprises synthetic and natural rubbers (elastomers) which may be 
blended together in a starting coating composition. Examples of suitable 
polymers include polychloroprene (neoprene), styrene butadiene latices, 
carboxylated styrene butadiene copolymers containing at least 50 weight 
percent or more of bound styrene, emulsion copolymers containing lower 
alkyl acrylates and acrylonitrile, and the like. 
One class of presently preferred coating compositions incorporate polymers 
and associated components which are adapted to, when dried, cross link at 
temperatures in the range of from about 250.degree. to 350.degree. C., or 
at temperatures which are in the range of heat shrinking temperatures 
associated with heat shrinkable fibers employed in starting fabrics of the 
present invention. Moreover, such preferred polymeric systems are adapted 
to achieve a substantially complete cross linking within the heat 
shrinking times utilized for achieving heat shrinking in heat shrinkable 
fibers at heat shrinking temperatures. 
In one preferred mode of practicing the present invention, a resulting 
coated and heated pile fabric is not only dimensionally stabilized without 
achieving substantially any heat shrinkage of heat shrinkable fibers, but 
also is adapted to be transversely and/or longitudinally elongated over 
and above the dimensions associated with the coated and heated pile 
fabric. After being so tensioned transversely and/or longitudinally, and 
then such tensioning is released, the coated, heated fabric is capable, 
preferably, of recovering its originally coated, heated dimensions within 
about 10%. The use of coating compositions which result in a 
rigidification of a resulting coated and heated fabric used in this 
invention to such an extent that transverse and/or longitudinal tensioning 
thereof cannot be accomplished without some recovery should be avoided, 
preferably, for purposes of practicing the present invention. 
Typical coating compositions employed in the practice of this invention 
contain, at the time of coating in accordance with the present invention, 
from about 5 to 65 weight percent solids, with the balance up to 100 
weight percent thereof being volatile liquid, preferably water. The solids 
contained in such a coating composition can preferably comprise mainly 
polymer, although the coating composition can also employ from about 2 to 
20 weight percent of various other agents, such as thickeners, colorants, 
flame retardants, fillers, cross linking agents, polymerizable monomers, 
and the like, as desired. 
Typical coating rates for the first coating composition can vary widely. 
Common rates fall in the range of from about 0.05 to 2 pounds of coating 
composition solids per lineal yard of coated fabric on a 100 percent dry 
weight basis. The amount of coating composition applied in any given 
instance is generally at least sufficient to achieve a desired dimensional 
stabilizing action, as above described. More preferred coating rates for 
purposes of the present invention range from about 0.01 to 0.5 pounds of 
coating solids per linear yard of coated fabric (same basis). 
First heating temperatures to which a coated fabric is subjected, in 
accordance with the practice of the present invention, likewise can vary 
widely, but presently tend broadly to range from about 215.degree. to 
260.degree. F. Temperatures below this range tend to be too low, and 
therefore, too slow, while temperatures above this range tend to induce 
the possibility of undesirable shrinkage of heat shrinkable fibers. 
Preferred temperatures range from about 225.degree. to 255.degree. F. 
Preferred temperature exposure times in the range of from about 1 to 5 
minutes can be employed and preferably are in the range of from about 2 to 
4 minutes. 
As those skilled in the art will appreciate, in addition to bilaterally 
stabilizing dimensionally a fabric being used in the practice of the 
present invention, the coating and heating steps with the starting fabric, 
as hereinabove described, accomplish the desirable effect of binding the 
individual fibers in the pile to the associated backing yarns locally so 
that the individual tufts of pile fibers are not easily dislodged from the 
product fabric. Typically, coating application rates as above indicated, 
along with other coating conditions and heating conditions, are sufficient 
and adequate in order to obtain a desirable bonding of pile fibers to yarn 
fibers to an extent sufficient to achieve useful products by the practice 
of the teachings of the present invention. 
After being contour sheared, a resulting pile fabric can be stored, if 
desired, before being subjected to further processing, storing 
conveniently being accomplished by coiling, plating, or the like, as 
desired. 
In accordance with one preferred practice of the present invention, before 
being subjected to a second heating operation and after being contour 
sheared, a contour sheared fabric is subjected to a second coating 
operation. Such a second coating operation is conveniently and preferably 
performed in a manner similar to that employed for the first coating 
operation above described, though any convenient coating procedure can be 
employed if desired. Such fabric is tensioned as above described during 
such a second coating operation. 
Coating conditions, application rates, compositions, etc., are similar to 
those employed for the first coating operation, if desired. When utilizing 
the second coating procedure, one can employ in the first coating 
operation less coating solids than if a single pass coating operation is 
desired, preferably. When employing two coatings, the first coating is 
applied at a rate conveniently in the range of from about 0.01 to 0.50 
pounds per lineal yard and the second coating is applied at a rate of from 
about 0.01 to 0.50 pounds per lineal yard. As used herein, it is noted 
that the term "pounds per lineal yard" has reference to a fabric having a 
transverse width of approximately 60 inches, or equivalent. Either the 
same or different coating composition can be employed during the second 
coating operation as is employed in the first coating operation. In one 
preferred mode of operating, the coating composition employed in each of 
the first and the second coating operations is identical. 
During the second coating operation, the fabric being coated is tensioned 
in a manner similar to that employed initially. After the second coating 
operation is completed, and while the thus twice coated fabric is still 
tensioned, it is preferably immediately subjected, as in the case of the 
first coating and first heating, to a second heating operation, with the 
heating conditions in the second heating operation being similar to those 
described above. 
As indicated above, the second heating is conducted at temperatures 
sufficient to both accomplish heat shrinking of heat shrinkable fibers and 
also to accomplish a substantially complete drying of the coating 
composition employed in the second coating operation. If the coating 
composition employed is one which cures, the temperatures of curing of 
such coating composition are preferably selected so that the second 
heating may be carried out at temperatures which are sufficient both to 
heat shrink the heat shrinkable fibers and also to accomplish a 
substantially complete curing of the coating composition. 
Whether or not a second coating operation is employed, the product fabric 
emerging from the second heating step is substantially completely 
dimensionally stabilized, by which reference is had to the fact that the 
product fabric displays a tendency not to shrink or diminish in size by a 
factor of more than about 10% transversely or longitudinally after the 
tensioning of the fabric is removed following completion of the second 
heating step. Preferably, the fabric displays, after such second heating 
step, substantially no tendency to dimensionally change upon removal of 
tensioning forces therefrom. 
The two coating procedure is preferred for purposes of the present 
invention since such procedure imparts to a product fabric desirable 
dimensional stability characteristics. The dimensional stability of a thus 
twice coated and heated product of the present invention tends to be 
better than that achieved with a single coating operation in accordance 
with the practice of the present invention. 
As used herein, the term "Gratzen" has reference to a stripe running down 
the back center region of a fur pelt (whether synthetic or not). The 
stripe has a different and generally thicker texture and fur length than 
adjoining areas. The term "Gratzen" includes the connotation of shadings 
as is typical of the shadings which occur in the back of animals having 
Gratzens, in general. The Gratzen can be regarded as a central region 
longitudinally extending through the pelt of an animal characteristically 
having a Gratzen. 
A simulated fabric product made by the teachings of this invention thus is 
made on a circular knitting machine and is comprised of seemingly seamed 
together animal pelts wherein the individual pelts are longitudinally 
arranged relative to one another in rows, have individually discernable, 
predetermined Gratzens, and have nonuniform textures (including fur fiber 
variations). Each individual simulated animal pelt row is characterized by 
changing features as one proceeds transversely across such an individual 
pelt row. Thus, there is a change not only in the pile structure, but also 
in the distances between wales, in a preferred embodiment of the present 
invention. The structure of such a preferred product is such that the 
transverse width of the individual simulated pelts transversely across a 
product fabric is substantially equal to the transverse width of the 
others thereof. For this purpose, one uses, as a starting material, a 
differentially knit, sliver knit, high pile fabric prepared as described 
in the above referenced co-pending application filed on even date 
herewith, the contents of which are entirely incorporated herein by 
reference. 
Fabrics produced by the practice of the present invention preferably are 
patterned, and experience of systematic variation of fiber blend within an 
individual pattern repeat as one progresses transversely across a fabric 
product of this invention and examines transversely the pile thereof. 
Texture effects and color shadings are desirable because animal pelts 
characteristically are not uniform, and there is experienced preferably 
variations as one proceeds from one square inch to another across a 
synthetic fur piece comprised of seemingly seemed together animal pelts. 
In preferred products of this invention of this type, the Gratzen width of 
each individual simulated pelt row occupies perhaps a total of about 50% 
of the total pelt width, and is perhaps inset up to about one-third of the 
side distance inwards from a lateral side edge of each pelt row in the mid 
regions of an individual pelt row. The effect of longer guard hairs is 
achieved by using heavier denier fibers in the Gratzen area of an 
individual pelt row. The guard hairs which occur in the belly regions of a 
simulated pelt can have a different denier from those in the Gratzen 
region. The length of the base hairs and guard hairs relative to one 
another can vary greatly. For purposes of the present invention, the ratio 
of the length of guard hairs to body hairs or base hairs in a given 
simulated pelt can range from about 2:1 to 1.1:1, although longer and 
shorter such ratios can be achieved without departing from the spirit and 
scope of the present invention. The number of guard hairs relative to base 
hairs also can vary from one simulated pelt to another. Conveniently, for 
purposes of the present invention, this ratio on the basis of weight can 
extend from about 1:1 to 0.3:1, although larger and smaller such ratios 
can be achieved without departing from the spirit and scope of the present 
invention. 
In the most presently preferred practice of the present invention, a first 
and a second coating operation are each employed as above described. In 
the first coating, a relatively small amount of coating composition (in 
the range of from about 0.01 to 0.2 pounds per linear yard of coating 
solids) is applied for the reason that it is desired to be able to control 
the width of the fabric under tension at the region of contour shearing in 
a contour shearing operation. It has been found that it can be difficult 
to control the transverse width of a fabric during contour shearing, so 
that it is advisable to be able to permit an operator to have the ready 
capacity to variably alter the tension of a fabric being contour sheared 
as the contour shearing operation progresses so as to be able to 
continuously maintain the predetermined desired alignment between contour 
shearing apparatus and fabric being contour sheared thereby to achieve a 
desirable and precise contour shearing. If a relatively heavy first 
coating is applied, it has been found that it is generally more difficult 
to precisely control tension in the longitudinal direction in the contour 
shearing zone. It also appears that, in tensioning after the first coating 
and heating operations, particularly longitudinally, one tends to rupture, 
or break, or loosen, some, or all, of the adhesive bonds existing from 
wale to wale as a result of the contour shearing operation. The adhesive 
bonding achieved with a relatively light first coating has proven to be 
sufficient for purposes of achieving a desirable and controllable 
dimensional stability for use in contour shearing as above described. 
After a given contour shearing operation has been completed, these loosened 
areas of bond between overlying members of fabric can be re-stabilized 
dimensionally by passing the resulting pile fabric through the second 
heating zone. However, to augment the effect of the first coating, the 
second coating operation is preferred before the second heating is 
experienced, thereby to enhance the bonding action between the adjoining 
members of the fabric, and also to bridge the bonds that were loosened or 
broken when the width of the fabric was reduced following the first 
coating operation and subsequent heating during the contour shearing step 
as above described. 
The product resulting from the second heating operation as above described 
can either be used as such, or it can be subjected to further processing 
operations, if desired. For example, one can subject the product fabric 
resulting from a second heating operation to a sequence of steps involving 
passage of the fabric through an electrifier followed by subsequent 
passage through a shearing apparatus (to eliminate stray hairs projecting 
upwardly developed in the fabric as a result of the electrifier 
operation). Such a sequence of electrification followed by shearing can be 
practiced more than once. As those skilled in the art will appreciate, an 
electrifier functions to polish and to straighten the terminal outer end 
regions of individual fibers comprising a pile in a knitted fabric. 
Conventional electrifier technology and post-electrifier shear technology 
can be employed with care, of course, being taken not to disrupt the 
desired effects achieved in the contour sheared, heat shrunken heat 
shrinkable fibers incorporated into the pile of a product fabric of this 
invention. As those skilled in the art will appreciate, a variety of 
subsequent processing steps, if desired, can be employed so as to process 
a given product of this invention into a final fabric product having 
special properties, as an individual use situation may demand. The 
electrifier operation is sometimes called by those skilled in the art "fur 
ironing" since one straightens out certain of the fibers in a pile and 
removes the crimp therefrom, so that, thereafter, when the structure of 
the fiber is passed through the electrifier, different fibers are affected 
thereby to different degrees. The shearing intervening between subsequent 
pairs of electrifier operation or processing operates to remove the fibers 
of extreme length, sometimes called by those skilled in the art the wile. 
Referring to the drawings, there is seen in FIG. 5 the type of 
manufacturing sequence employable in the practice of the present 
invention. Here, the starting knit pile fabric has a longitudinal pattern 
and the pile incorporates fibers having heat shrinkable characteristics. 
This fabric is previously not dimensionally stabilized. Preferably, before 
being used in the practice of the process of the present invention, such 
pile fabric is subjected to a pre-shearing operation (not contour shearing 
but a uniform transverse shear) which is accomplished by passing the 
fabric through a conventional shearing apparatus of the type heretofore 
used in the art of high pile, sliver knit fabrics. The purpose of the 
pre-shearing operation is to improve the product quality of the final 
product by eliminating initially pile fiber surface irregularities which 
are characteristically common to products produced by circular knitting 
machines and the like. 
The pre-sheared knit pile fabric is then bilaterally stretched, and, while 
so stretched, is subjected to a first coating operation, followed by a 
first heating operation, after which the bilateral stretching is ceased. 
Then, the resulting knit pile fabric is stretched longitudinally, and is 
subjected to contour shearing, with any longitudinal pattern in the knit 
pile fabric being centered and registered with the contour shearing 
apparatus. Thereafter, the resulting contour sheared pile fabric is 
bilaterally stretched, similarly to the manner in which bilateral 
stretching is earlier accomplished, and then the contour sheared pile 
fabric is subjected here to a second coating operation followed by a 
second heating operation while so stretched bilaterally. The product which 
results can then be used as such, or subjected to further processing, as 
as herein described. 
Referring to FIG. 6, there is seen an alternative mode for practicing the 
present invention. Here, plain goods comprising knit pile fabric without a 
pattern therein, but containing about 10-60% heat shrinkable pile fibers 
is subjected to a preferred but optional pre-shearing operation similar to 
that above described in reference to FIG. 5. 
Thereafter, the resulting fabric is stretched bilaterally, and while so 
stretched, is subjected to coating and heating operations. After the 
stretching bilaterally is removed, the fabric is contour sheared. During 
contour shearing, the fabric is stretched longitudinally to a desired 
extent so as to achieve a desired or predetermined registration and 
alignment of the plain knit pile fabric goods with the contours in the 
contour pile shear apparatus. 
Next, the resulting contour sheared pile fabric is stretched bilaterally in 
a manner similar to that earlier accomplished, and is optionally but 
preferably subjected to a second coating operation. Following such 
optional second coating operation, the second heating is undertaken, and 
bilateral stretching is thereafter ceased, as above, to produce a product 
having the features and characteristics herein detailed. 
One manner in which the sequence of bilateral stretching, first coating, 
and first heating can be accomplished is illustrated in FIG. 7. Here, a 
fabric 21 supplied from a pleat 22 is passed over rollers 23 and 24. From 
roller 24 the fabric 21 is fed onto a continuously operating tenter frame 
assembly 32 which transversely and longitudinally stretches the fabric 21 
to a predetermined extent as above described. Thus, while passing through 
the coating apparatus 25 and the oven 26, the fabric 21 is maintained 
under longitudinal and transverse tension by the continuously operating 
tenter frame 32. In these drawings longer diameter rollers generally 
indicate drive rollers. From roller 24 the fabric 21 is passed under a 
knife coating apparatus 25, such as hereinabove described. The fabric 21 
is arranged and oriented pile-side down so that the back of the fabric 
receives the coating from the coating apparatus 25 so that a uniform rate 
of coating composition is applied to the back of the fabric 21. From the 
coater 25, the fabric is continuously transported through an oven 26. The 
forward speed of the fabric 21, and the temperature of the oven 26, are 
arranged so that the time and temperature exposure of the fabric 21 in the 
oven 26 correspond to the first heating times and temperatures hereinabove 
described. After leaving the oven 26 wherein the pile of the fabric 21 is 
held in a substantially free condition so as not to adversely affect same, 
the resulting so-coated pile is fed over rollers 27, 28, and 29 before 
being passed over a roller 30 and formed into a pleat 31 for storage. As 
can be seen from FIG. 7, as the fabric 21 leaves the oven 26, the tension 
thereon is released. 
The sequence of passage, longitudinal stretching, registration, centering, 
and contour shearing is illustrated in FIG. 8. Here, a pleat 35 of fabric 
which has been previously tensioned, coated and heated as above described 
is fed over roller 36 and 37 into and through the nip region 38 defined 
between a contour shear bar 39 of the type shown in the above referenced 
Abler U.S. Pat. No. 4,102,023 and a contour shear roller 40, with 
longitudinal tension of the fabric 41 being maintained over the bar 39 by 
means of rollers 36 and 43, such tension being adjustable and correctable 
so as to maintain a desired width for the fabric 41 as it passes over the 
contour shear bar 39 in a desired centered and registered relationship 
between the contour shear bar 39 and the shear roller 40 in the nip region 
38. From roller 42, the fabric 41, now contour sheared, passes over the 
rollers 43, 44 and 45 before being formed into a pleat 46 for intervening 
storage. 
The sequence of bilateral stretching followed by second heating is 
illustrated in FIG. 9. Here, previously contour sheared fabric 51 is 
supplied from a storage pleat 52 over rollers 53 and 54 to a knife coating 
station 55 which can be constructed as above described, and which can be 
similar to the knife coating apparatus 25, above described in FIG. 7. 
As will be seen from FIG. 9, the fabric 51 is fed from roller 54 directly 
to a continuously operating tenter frame 56 so that as the fabric 51 
passes under the coating apparatus 55 such is maintained under transverse 
and longitudinal tension whose respective magnitudes correspond to that 
earlier employed on the tenter frame 32 above described. 
The second coating station 55 represents an optional but preferred 
embodiment of the present invention, as described above. While still 
tensioned, the fabric 51 after being coated passes into and through an 
oven 57. The temperature inside oven 57 along with the residence time of 
the fabric 51 therein is such that the heat shrinkable fibers in Fabric 51 
are heat shrunk to a desirable extent during the passage of the fabric 51 
through the oven 57. Concurrently, the temperature in the oven 57 along 
with the residence time of the fabric 51 therein is such that the coating 
composition applied at coating station 55 and also the coating composition 
earlier applied at the coating station 25 undergo a substantially complete 
drying and curing operation so as to develop in the product fabric 
emerging from the oven 57 a desired degree of dimensional stability. As 
the fabric emerges from the oven 57 it is permitted to be de-tensioned as 
it passes over the succession of rollers 58, 59, 60 and 61 after which the 
fabric 51 is permitted to be placed into a storage pleat 64 or the like, 
as desired. 
As those skilled in the art will appreciate, between rolls 30 and 36, a 
fabric being processed in accordance with the present invention is 
inverted and, similarly, between rollers 45 and 53 such a fabric is again 
inverted. During passage of the fabric 51 through oven 57, the pile of the 
fabric 51 is maintained in a free condition to avoid any change in the 
characteristics thereof while exposed to the oven heat 57 beyond the 
desired longitudinal shrinkage of the heat shrinkable fibers therein. 
An alternative mode of practicing the sequence of steps involving bilateral 
stretching, back coating and heating such as shown in FIG. 7 or in FIG. 9 
can be accomplished in the manner shown for example, in FIG. 10. Here, 
fabric 71 from a pleat 72 is fed over rollers 73 and 74 onto a tanter 
frame 75. The fabric and pleat 72 can be considered to be either the 
fabric in pleat 22 or the fabric in pleat 52 except that here the fabric 
71 is spatially oriented so that its pile side faces upwards, as those 
skilled in the art will appreciate. 
After entering the tenter frame 75, the fabric 71 passes over roller 
coating apparatus 76 and is coated on its back side with a coating 
composition. Afterwards, while on the tenter frame 75, the coated fabric 
71 passes through the oven 77 wherein a desired sequence of temperatures 
and times are employed relative to the movement of the fabric 71. After 
leaving the oven 77, the fabric is passed over the succession of rollers 
78, 79, 80 and 81 before being stored in a pleat 82. 
The coating apparatus 25, 55, and 76 are of types conventionally known to 
the art as are the respective ovens 26, 57, and 77. 
The cross sectional appearance of fabric in pleat 46 is illustrated by the 
view shown in FIG. 11 where the pile 83 in a sliver knit high pile fabric 
84 has been contour sheared along the curved profile 85 by passage through 
the contour shearing apparatus of the type, for example, illustrated in 
FIG. 8 with longitudinal tension being applied to the backing 86 thereof. 
Observe that all of the fibers in the pile 83 are more or less uniformly 
sheared according to the contours of the contour shearing device and that 
substantially no heat shrinkage of heat shrinkable fibers has yet taken 
place. Observe also that the individual fibers have maintained their 
characteristic crimp or kinky longitudinal configurations. 
Referring to FIG. 12, there is seen in a cross section a representation of 
the appearance of a product of this invention which has undergone a heat 
shrinkage operation such as is achieved by passage of the fabric 51 
through an oven 57. Here, the thermally stable fibers 87 maintain their 
same lengths as shown in FIG. 11 but the heat shrinkable fibers 88 have 
experienced a longitudinal shortening caused by exposure to the 
temperatures and times experienced in the oven 57. Observe that all fibers 
maintain their characteristic crimped or wrinkled configurations. The 
fabric of the type shown in FIG. 12 can be used as such or can be 
subjected to further processing operations. 
The type of further processing operations to which a product fabric of this 
invention may be subjected, if desired, are illustrated in FIG. 13. Here, 
a product fabric 91 of this invention is supplied from a storage pleat 92 
over a drive roller 93 and then over guide rollers 94 and 95 for passage 
of the pile of fabric 91 against the rotatably moving cylindrical surface 
portions of an electrifier roller 96, the fabric 91 being brought into 
face to face engagement with the electrifier roller 96 by means of support 
bar 97. The structure and operation of conventional electrifiers is well 
known to the prior art. From the region of the electrifier 96, the now 
processed fabric 91 is conveniently passed over a support bar 98 of a 
conventional shearing cylinder 99 whose function is to remove excessively 
long and stray hairs brought up from the pile of fabric 91 by the passage 
of same past the electrifier roll 96. Thereafter, the fabric 91 is passed 
over a guide roller 100 and then over a drive roller 101 for passing over 
another guide roller 102 followed by another guide roller 103 before being 
stored in a storage pleat 104. More than one stage of electrification 
followed by shearing can be employed if desired. 
Referring to FIG. 14, the transverse cross sectional appearance of a fabric 
pleat 104 is illustrated. Here the thermally stable fibers 105 as well as 
the heat shrunk fibers 106 have experienced a polishing action and a 
straightening action upon their terminal outer regions designated as 107 
and 108, respectively, for purposes of designation herein. Sometimes such 
a "fur polishing" action is desirable when using products of this 
invention, as those skilled in the art will appreciate. 
Typically, the width of a starting fabric ranges from about 54 to 60 inches 
which is a common width in the industry. Such a starting fabric contains 
from about 8 to 24 wales per inch before stabilization and from about 17 
to 42 courses per inch in an unstabilized condition. In a so-called 
"10-cut" circular knitting machine the number of courses per inch ranges 
from about 17 to 26 while the number of courses per inch in a so-called 
"16-cut" circular knitting machine ranges from about 27 to 42. After a 
fabric has been stabilized through a first coating operation and first 
heating operation while being tensioned, all as described above, a fabric 
contains from about 9 to 22.5 wales per inch and from about 17 to 38 
courses per inch. In a so-called 10-cut machine, the number of courses per 
inch in stabilized fabrics ranges from about 17 to 28 while the number of 
courses per inch in a 16-cut machine ranges from about 27 to 44. The term 
"wales" has reference to stitches oriented in a longitudinal direction 
measured transversely, while the term courses has reference to stitches 
oriented in a transverse direction but measured longitudinally. 
When the yarn in a starting fabric comprises polyester filament, it 
preferably has a denier ranging from about 200 to 600 with preferred 
deniers being about 300. When the yarn comprises slit film olefin, the 
denier preferably ranges from about 300 to 480 with most preferred deniers 
being about 480. When the yarn comprises a filament olefin, the denier 
preferably ranges from about 200 to 600. When the yarn comprises a spun 
staple, it has a denier preferably ranging from about 380 to 530. More 
preferred yarns for use in the present invention are filament olefins 
preferably having deniers in the range of about 25 per filament with most 
preferred such yarns preferably having a denier of about 250. Presently 
preferred olefin filament yarns, for example, have a yarn tenacity of 
about 6 grams per denier, an elongation at break of about 12 percent, a 
specific gravity of about 0.91, and about 11/2 turns per inch. 
When a starting fabric has no longitudinally extending pattern therein, it 
is preferred that such starting material contain on a 100 weight percent 
total pile fiber basis at least about 25 weight percent of heat shrinkable 
fibers which have heat shrink characteristics of at least about 20%. 
At the present time, a most preferred starting fabric has a fiber to yarn 
weight ratio of about 9 to 1. 
Preferably, in a starting fabric which (a) has been tensioned, (b) has had 
a first coating composition uniformly applied thereto, (c) has been heated 
to a temperature for a time sufficient to achieve bonding, and (d) has 
been tensioned, the pattern repeats thereof each have a substantially 
uniform width transversely, and such width of the individual patterns 
ranges from about 1 to 20 inches (preferably about 1 to 5 inches). 
Preferably a starting fabric used in the practice of the present invention 
has a pile which is comprised of acrylic fibers and/or modified acrylic 
fibers. By the term "acrylic" and "modified acrylic" as used herein in 
relation to fibers, reference is had to fibers which contain bound into 
the polymeric structure thereof not less than about 50 weight percent of 
acrylic monomers. Any convenient weight ratio of acrylic to modified 
acrylic can be employed so long as the resulting fiber blend contains from 
about 10 to 90 weight percent of heat shrinkable fibers, as indicated 
above. 
Referring to FIGS. 1 and 2, there is seen a preferred knitted pile fabric 
product produced by the process of the present invention. Herein, the pile 
thereof has the appearance of seemingly seamed together longitudinally 
aligned animal pelts. Each one of the pelts has a Gratzen extending 
longitudinally therethrough. Optionally, but preferably, the Gratzen is 
darker in color and thicker in texture than adjoining areas thereof. Each 
of the individual pelts has simulated guard hairs 110 and simulated base 
hairs 111 as shown in the enlarged cross sectional view depicted in FIG. 
3. The product knitted pile fabric also is made according to the teachings 
of Kieckhefer and Grubbs preferably using a differentially transversely 
knitted pile fabric wherein proceeding from the center line 112 outwardly 
to either opposed side edge 113 or 114 thereof, the individual pattern 
repeats 115 through 119, and 115' through 119' are preferably in 
bilaterally arranged symmetrical relationship to such center line 112. 
Also, the individual number of wales in each of the respective pattern 
repeats 115 through 119 in the illustrative embodiment shown in FIGS. 1 
and 2 is such that the transverse width of each individual pattern 115 
through 119 is substantially equal to the others thereof. Such equality in 
transverse width of pattern repeats is accomplished by the use of 
transversely differential knitting as taught and provided in the 
technology contained in the above referenced copending application filed 
on even date herewith above referenced in the names of Kieckhefer and 
Grubbs. 
The appearance of the knitted backing characteristically involved in 
knitted pile fabric starting materials used in the practice of the present 
invention is illustrated in FIG. 4. 
In preferred products of the present invention, as one proceeds across an 
individual pattern, there occurs a difference in the density of the pile 
fabric on either side of a center line of an individual pattern repeat. 
Thus, the fabric is denser and therefore longer in the mid region of 
pattern 119 than it is near the edge portions thereof in order to simulate 
the natural effect of a Gratzen in an animal pelt, as those skilled in the 
art will understand. 
For example, pattern 119 shown in FIG. 3 involves an exemplary pattern 
wherein the guard hairs 110 are spaced at intervals from one another. In 
the region of the center line 121, a larger number of base haris 111 are 
interposed between adjacent guard hairs 110 than are interposed between 
adjacent guard hairs 110 at opposed side edge portions of such pattern 
119. 
EMBODIMENTS 
The present invention is further illustrated by reference to the following 
examples. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that other and further 
embodiments are obvious and within the spirit and scope of this invention 
from the teachings of these present examples taken with the accompanying 
specification. 
EXAMPLES A through E 
Table II below lists various starting materials used in the following 
numbered examples, each one being a fabric about 60 inches wide. 
Examples B, C, D and E are prepared by the teachings of the above noted 
Kieckhefer et al U.S. Patent application; each fabric is knitted with a 
pattern resembling a seemingly pelted fur of 19 pelts transversely. The 
number of wales per pelt is shown in Table II below. 
TABLE II 
__________________________________________________________________________ 
STARTING FABRICS 
Fabric 
weight 
Backing 
Pile Fiber ratio of 
wales 
courses 
Ex. yarn Heat Shrinkable 
Non Heat Shrinkable 
fiber to 
per per 
Letter 
type 
den. 
type 
length 
den. 
wt. % 
type length 
den. 
wt. % 
yarn 
inch 
inch 
Remarks 
__________________________________________________________________________ 
A spun acry- 
3/4 to modified 
3/4 to solid 
poly- 
380 
lic 11/2" 
3 75 acrylic 
11/2" 
6-12 
25 5:1 12 21 1 color 
ester 
B modified 
11/8 to 
10- animal 
slit acrylic 
2" 24 35 6:1 12 21 pattern 
film 
480 
acry- 
3/4 to modified 
3/4 to 
olefin lic 11/2" 
3 60 acrylic 
11/2" 
5 5 
C modified 
1 to 
fila- acry- 
3/4 to acrylic 
11/2" 
6-18 
40 
ment 
300 
lic 11/2" 
3 20 modified 
1 to 
12- animal 
olefin acrylic 
13/4" 
24 40 5.5:1 
12 21 pattern 
D fila- high modified 
11/8 to 
16- 
ment 
250 
shrink 
3/4 to acrylic 
21/2" 
24 40 
olefin acry- 
11/2" 
3 25 11/8 to animal 
lic acrylic 
2" 6-18 
35 6:1 12 21 pattern 
E acrylic 
3/4 to 11/2 
6 25 5.5:1 
12 21 animal 
fila- pattern 
ment 
250 
acry- 
1 to 13/4 modified 
olefin lic 11/2" 
3 15 acrylic 
1 to 13/4 
12 30 
modified 
acrylic 
1 to 11/2 
18 30 
__________________________________________________________________________ 
TABLE III 
______________________________________ 
INCREMENT NO. OF WALES 
______________________________________ 
Left Selvedge 28 
Pelt # 1 38 
2 38 
3 37 
4 37 
5 37 
6 36 
7 36 
8 36 
9 35 
10 34 
11 35 
12 36 
13 36 
14 36 
15 37 
16 37 
17 37 
18 38 
19 38 
Right Selvedge 28 
TOTAL 750 
______________________________________ 
EXAMPLES 1 through 5 
The starting materials of the above Examples A through E are each employed 
in the practice of the present invention using conditions as specified in 
Tables IV and V below. 
In each of these examples, the coating composition for each of the first 
and the second coatings comprises an aqueous, foamed emulsion of a stable 
self-cross linking butyl acrylate polymer composed of 
89.3 weight percent butyl acrylate 
8.9 weight percent acrylonitrile 
1.8 weight percent N-methylol acrylomide 
the above percentages are derived from parts per 100 resin. This polymer 
has a glass transition temperature (T.sub.g) of -35.degree. C. as 
determined in a differential scanning colometer such as a DuPont Model 
490. The polymer particle size is approximately 0.18 microns. 
In the first heating or first pass the oven temperature is as shown in 
Tables IV and V and little curing takes place. In the second pass or 
second heating, as shown in Table V the higher temperature results in a 
substantially complete polymer cross linking. 
Each of these products is contour sheared and has heat shrink heat 
shrinkable fibers therein. 
By the term "pattern repeat" as used herein reference is had primarily to a 
visual effect as compared to a technical or precise fabric constructional 
(e.g. stitch placement) fact. For example, in the case of a seemingly 
pelted fabric, one selected pattern repeat transversely comprises a single 
animal pelt width at one transverse location when the pelt(s) adjacent 
such a selected pelt would achieve substantially the same aesthetic 
appearance with perhaps a technically different stitch pattern 
arrangement. 
TABLE IV 
__________________________________________________________________________ 
First Tensioning 
First coating 
(based on relaxed 
polymer % shrink after 
starting fabric) 
glass weight first tension 
% % transition 
coating 
First Heating 
release 
Example 
Starting 
elongation 
elongation 
temp chemical 
lb/line 
Temp 
Time 
width 
length 
No. Fabric 
width length 
.degree.C. 
type yard 
.degree.C. 
min. 
% % 
__________________________________________________________________________ 
X1 A 10 8 -30 Acrylic 
0.13 
240 3 1.0 1.0 
X2 B 8 9 -30 Acrylic 
0.16 
230 4 1.0 1.5 
X3 C 10 8 -30 Acrylic 
0.18 
250 2.5 
1.5 1.8 
X4 D 8 7 -30 Acrylic 
0.22 
220 2 1.3 1.7 
X5 E 4 8 -30 Acrylic 
0.15 
230 4 1.0 1.5 
__________________________________________________________________________ 
TABLE V 
__________________________________________________________________________ 
Contour Shearing Second Tensioning 
Second Coating (Optional) 
fabric 
based on relaxed 
polymer 
*no of shear speed 
starting fabric 
glass weight 
Ex. repeats 
shearing 
yards 
% % transition 
coating 
Second Heating 
No. transversely 
height 
per elongation 
elongation 
temp. Tg 
chemical 
lb/linear 
Temp. 
Time 
(contd) 
across fabric 
(inches) 
minute 
width length 
.degree. C. 
type yard .degree. 
(min) 
__________________________________________________________________________ 
1 20 15/32 
5 6 5 -30 Acrylic 
0.15 280 3 
2 12 1 7 5 6 -30 Acrylic 
.18 275 2.3 
below 0 
3 20 20/32 
6 7 6 -30 Acrylic 
.20 285 2.5 
4 20 17/32 
5 5 4 -30 Arylic 
.25 300 3 
5 20 13/32 
4 4 5 -30 Acrylic 
.17 310 3.5 
__________________________________________________________________________ 
*Refers to number of groves or valleys longitudinally extending in a 
resulting contour sheared fabric