Expandable ring design and method for making same

An expandable jewelry ring. The ring has a split circular spring made of springy metal and having first and second ends separated by a gap. A tongue portion extends from the first end of the spring and into the gap. A mounting is made of metal and has a generally split circular shape with first and second ends separated by a gap and having a spring channel formed therein. The spring channel has a first portion and a second portion. The spring is positioned in the first portion of the spring channel, with the tongue portion being slideably moveable in the second portion of the spring channel. When pressure from a wearer's finger is exerted on the inside of the mounting, it will expand the effective size of the ring, and when pressure is relieved, the ring will spring back to its original size.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Rings of precious and non precious stones have been worn by men and women for millennia. And as the price of jewelry has become more affordable over the years, the popularity of so-called eternity rings (rings that have a row of gemstones set around the circumference of the ring), and rings that have gemstones set at least partially around the circumference of the band, has risen. Many ring designs also have elaborate filigree designs and carving around their perimeters. Unlike smooth banded rings, which can be readily resized by stretching, or cutting and filling or removing band material, for eternity rings, this is not possible due to the mounting of the gemstones around the perimeter of the ring. In rings with filigree or designs set around the circumference, resizing a ring can be challenging if maintenance of the integrity of the design is desired.

A tremendous normal variation exists in ring wearers' fingers, which can range in size from 0000 (9.91 mm in diameter) to 13 (22.33 mm in diameter) or even larger, in ⅛ or ¼ increments between sizes. As a result, jewelry manufacturers must manufacture and jewelry retailers stock a large variety of ring sizes to meet the demands of walk-in customers and therefore provide an adequate inventory of rings. This is expensive for both the jewelry manufacturer and jewelry retailer alike since one or both must absorb the costs of unsold merchandise.

Furthermore, many ring wearers, especially women, sometimes experience fluctuations in their finger size. During pregnancy, many women can no longer wear their rings, and sometimes even have to have rings cut off their fingers. Of course, many ring wearers experience body changes and weight fluctuations over weeks, months, and years, which can make ring fitting problematic.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The invention is an expandable ring design and method for making same. The expandable ring design incorporates a springy and resilient metal loop, which is placed within a channel of a ring body which carries gemstones, particular gemstones around its entire circumference (eternity ring designs) or a large portion of the circumference, rings which have designs formed on their perimeter, and other types of rings for which it is desirable to provide for expandability.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

FIG. 1is a perspective view showing a first embodiment of an expandable ring10of the invention (in its expanded state with a gap11), with the mounting12set with a single row of round stones14, and having a single spring16that is flush mounted with small round gemstones18. Normally, the ring will be worn on a wearer's finger with the gap11facing palm down.

FIG. 2is a perspective view showing a second embodiment of an expandable ring20of the invention (in its expanded state), with the mounting22set with three rows of round stones24,26and28, and having two springs30and32that are set with small round stones34.

FIG. 3is a bottom perspective view showing a third embodiment of an expandable ring40of the invention, with the mounting40set with a single row of princess stones42, and having two springs44and46that are set with small round stones48.

FIG. 4is a bottom perspective view showing a fourth embodiment of an expandable ring50of the invention, with the mounting52set with a single row of center set princess stones54and two straddling rows of small round stones56and58on the sides of the princess stones54, and having two springs60and62that are set with small round gemstones64and66.

FIG. 5is a bottom perspective view showing a fifth embodiment of an expandable ring70of the invention, with the mounting72set with a single row of center set baguettes74and two straddling rows of small round stones76and78on the sides of the baguettes74, and having two springs80and82that are set with small round stones84and86.

FIGS. 6is a side plan view showing an embodiment of the expandable ring80of the invention in an unexpanded state. As can be seen the ring has a mounting portion82and a tongue portion84, which can be seen through a gap89.

Turning toFIG. 7, there is shown a side plan of the ring ofFIG. 6, but in an expanded state with the gap89, showing the split circular spring86and spring track or channel88in phantom.

FIG. 8is a detail showing a portion of an expandable ring80with two springs, in an unexpanded state in the vicinity of the gap89ofFIG. 6, and shows the internal tracks88for the spring86, and shows the stationary end of the spring being retained with a pivot90, and the tongue plate84retained maximally in a tongue plate channel92in the mounting82. Instead of the pivot90, the spring can be formed to have a protrusion at its second end or to have an enlarged second end, and the mounting can be formed around the second end to retain it pivotally. A protrusion94near the distal end of the tongue plate84acts to prevent the tongue84from being completely withdrawn from the tongue plate channel92, as it will impinge on a block96in the tongue plate channel, as shown inFIG. 9.

FIG. 9is a detail showing part of an expandable ring in an expanded state about the gap89ofFIG. 7, and shows one internal track88for the spring86, and shows the stationary end of the spring being retained with a pivot90, and the tongue plate84withdrawn maximally from the tongue plate channel92in the mounting82.

FIG. 10is a detail showing another embodiment of a tongue plate84affixed to one end of the spring86, with a protrusion94formed on the distal end of the tongue plate. As is shown, in this embodiment, the tongue plate84is thinner than the spring86and is soldered at their interface96.

FIG. 11is a cross-sectional view of the expandable ring ofFIG. 9along view lines11—11ofFIG. 9, and shows the two springs84A and84B in their two channels88A and88B, with prongs98retaining a stone102to the mounting82.

Turning toFIG. 12, there is shown a flowchart130showing the steps used to manufacture expandable rings in accordance with the invention. In the method of the invention, in step132a section of metal, such as gold, e.g., 5 mm thick square-thread gold, is passed through a rolling mill several times to form elongate and narrow metal plates. The metal plates thus formed become elongated and narrower, according to the width of the final spring desired, and the thickness of the plate desired. Annealing the metal may be necessary after it has been passed through the mill a few times. In embodiments using two springs, this step is used to produce two elongate plates.

The elongate plate formed as described is of a desired thickness and width, according to the requirements of the final ring design. For example, a narrower ring design (which may require a narrower spring) may require a thicker plate to maintain a desired degree of spring resilience. A desired length of the plate can be cut from the plate material, for example, between 5.5 cm and 7.0 cm, but more typically about 6.5 cm for average ring sizes. For smaller and narrower ring sizes, the plate thickness can be thicker, and for larger and wider ring sizes, the plate thickness can be made slightly thinner. The inventor has found that the spring can be made of yellow or white gold since yellow or white gold provides a good amount of resilience. On the other hand, silver and platinum, do not provide as much resilience and are not ideal materials for the spring.

In step134, after forming the plate material for the spring, the spring is bent into a band shape, with the first and second ends of the plates spaced apart with a gap spacing. A mandrel or other known means can be used to form the band-shaped spring.

Thereafter, in step136, a metal tongue plate with holes preferably formed therein is soldered to a first end of the spring. A first hole is preferably formed near the junction of the tongue plate and the first end of the spring. Alternately, the first hole can be formed through the first end of the spring. A second hole is preferably near the distal end of the tongue plate. The tongue plate can be the same or of different materials than the spring, but it is preferably that the tongue plate be made of the same material as the spring, e.g. white or yellow gold. The tongue plate is arched to have the same curvature as the band, and this will be the part of the spring that is visible when the ring expands. In an optional step138, the tongue plate can be set with gemstones and be engraved or have a pattern, if desired. One of the features of the expandable rings of the invention is that any optional settings that may be placed in the tongue must be made low so as to allow the tongue to fit into the groove. If the tongue plate is to be set with gemstones, this must be carried out before continuing with the forming of the rest of the structure of the ring, and the tongue must be set before being inserted into the mounting. If the ring design will be one having two springs, two tongue plates are made and are attached to the two springs. The spring can be cut to form two or more tongues if desired, where the tongues are part of the spring, and can be cut and rounded or otherwise finished as desired.

In step140, the jeweler builds the structure of the ring, namely the mounting structure, all around the spring or springs, with the spring being located in a tunnel of the mounting structure and free to slide within the tunnel. The mounting structure will vary depending upon the type of setting chosen (e.g. channeled, hammered, bezels, etc.), and the types of gemstones which will be set (i.e. princess, tapers, baguettes, round gemstones, etc.)

After the mounting is built, in step142, the jeweler fixes the mounting and the spring together at a pivot point, preferably located in the vicinity of the first end of the spring. For example, a pin can be inserted through the mounting into the first hole. This fixes the spring and mounting together, yet permits expansion and contraction of the mounting and spring.

In step144, the jeweler then continues with building of the mounting by adding a mounting extension portion at the second end of the spring to extend around the tongue plate with an opening that is sized to allow the tongue plate (and any tongue plate mountings formed thereon) to freely slide in and out therein to permit the ring to expand. A protrusion is fixed near the distal end of the tongue plate, which protrusion is sized and shaped such as to prevent the tongue plate from being completely pulled out of the open end of the mounting extension portion. The protrusion can comprise a pin and the like. Alternately, the tongue plate can be formed with an enlarged distal end to accomplish the same purpose. In lieu of the step of adding a mounting extension portion at the second end of the spring to extend around the tongue plate with an opening, the mounting extension portion can be formed at the same the mounting is built around the spring.

Lastly, in step146, the gemstones can be set in the mountings, and, if applicable, in any mountings on the tongue plate.

Table 1 below gives the standard U.S. ring sizes. The differences in diameter between rings sizes is generally between 0.81 mm and 0.84 mm, and the differences in circumference is generally about 2.54 mm and 2.64 mm per whole size change.

To provide for an increase of up to three ring sizes, the tongue plate is sized to have a travel of about 7 mm to 8 mm, and accordingly, the tongue plate is selected to have a length that is greater than this. Of course, by selected shorter travels, the range of expandability can be made less. Furthermore, the thickness, stiffness and other characteristics of the material used, and construction of the mountings around the spring can influence the degree to which the mounting can safely be expanded without compromising its integrity, and therefore avoid breakage of the mounting and/or spring.

The present invention covers the modifications and variations of this invention provided they come within the scope of the appended claims and their equivalents. In this context, equivalents mean each and every implementation for carrying out the functions recited in the claims, even those not explicitly described herein.