Enzymatic stone-wash of denim using xyloglucan/xyloglucanase

A new method of manufacturing a fabric or a garment with a stone-washed or worn look, the method comprising coating the yarn or fabric or garment with a polymer, e.g. a xyloglucan, prior to dyeing and afterwards creating the abraded or worn look by enzymatic degradation of said polymer, e.g. by using a xyloglucanase.

The present invention relates to a new method of manufacturing a fabric or 
a garment with a stone-washed or worn look resulting in no or very limited 
strength loss of said fabric or garment. 
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
The popularity of denim fabrics among consumers of all ages has been well 
documented by sales in a large number of countries throughout the world. 
Denim is most often cotton cloth. A conventional dyestuff for denim is the 
dye indigo having a characteristic blue colour, the indigo-dyed denim 
cloth having the desirable characteristic of alteration of dyed threads 
with white threads which upon normal wear and tear gives denim a white on 
blue appearance. 
A popular look for denim is the stone-washed or worn look. Traditionally 
stone-washing has been performed by laundering the denim material or 
garment in the presence of pumice stones which results in fabric having a 
faded or worn appearance with the desired white on blue contrast 
appearance described above. This stone-washed look primarily consists of 
removal of dye in a manner to yield a material with areas which are 
lighter in colour, while maintaining the desirable white on blue contrast, 
and a material which is softer in texture. 
Enzymes, particularly cellulases, are currently used in processing dyed 
twill fabric, especially denim. In particular cellulolytic enzymes or 
cellulases have been used as a replacement for or in combination with 
pumice stones for the traditional "stone-washing" process to give denim a 
faded look. Use of cellulases to stone-wash has become increasingly 
popular because use of stones alone have several disadvantages. For 
example, stones used in the process cause wear and tear on the machinery, 
they cause environmental waste problems due to the grit produced and 
result in high labour costs associated with the manual removal of the 
stones from pockets of garments. Consequently, reduction or elimination of 
stones in the wash may be desirable. 
Contrary to the use of pumice stones, enzymes, in particular cellulases, 
are safe for the machinery, result in little or no waste problem and 
drastically reduced labour costs. 
However, many cellulases have an activity towards insoluble cellulose which 
may result in a reduced strength of the cellulosic fabric in question. 
It is an object of the present invention to create an enzymatic process for 
manufacturing a fabric or a garment with a "stone-washed" look, a "worn" 
look or any other fashion look known in the art based on providing fabric 
or garments with localized variation in colour density, wherein the used 
enzyme has no or only a very low activity towards insoluble cellulose. In 
particular, it is an object of the present invention to create an 
enzymatic process for manufacturing a fabric or a garment with a 
"stone-washed" look, a "worn" look or any other fashion look known in the 
art by coating the yarn or fabric or garment with a polymer prior to 
dyeing and afterwards creating the abraded or worn look by degradation of 
the polymer coating. 
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
It has now surprisingly been possible to manufacture a fabric or a garment 
with a stone-washed or worn look wherein the manufacturing methods result 
in a very limited strength loss of the fabric or garment involved. 
Accordingly, the present invention relates to a method of manufacturing, 
with a very limited strength loss, a fabric with a stone-washed or worn 
look comprising 
(a) coating the yarn with a biodegradable polymer by contacting the yarn 
with a solution of said polymer; 
(b) dyeing the yarn; 
(c) optionally coating the yarn with a sizing agent; 
(d) weaving the yarn into a fabric; 
(e) optionally desizing the fabric; and 
(f) treating the fabric with an effective amount of an enzyme in an aqueous 
medium, wherein said enzyme is capable of degrading the biodegradable 
polymer, and has no or only a low activity towards insoluble cellulose. 
Another embodiment of the present invention relates to a method of 
manufacturing, with a very limited strength loss, a fabric with a 
stone-washed or worn look comprising 
(a) coating the fabric with a biodegradable polymer by contacting the 
fabric with a solution of said polymer; 
(b) dyeing the fabric; 
(c) treating the fabric with an effective amount of an enzyme in an aqueous 
medium, wherein said enzyme is capable of degrading the biodegradable 
polymer, and has no or only a low activity towards insoluble cellulose; 
and 
(d) optionally cutting and sewing the fabric into a garment. 
Another embodiment of the present invention relates to a method of 
manufacturing, with a very limited strength loss, a garment with a 
stone-washed or worn look comprising 
(a) coating the yarn with a biodegradable polymer by contacting the yarn 
with a solution of said polymer; 
(b) dyeing the yarn; 
(c) optionally coating the yarn with a sizing agent; 
(d) weaving the yarns into a fabric; 
(e) cutting and sewing the fabric into a garment; 
(f) optionally desizing the garment; and 
(g) treating the garment with an effective amount of an enzyme in an 
aqueous medium, wherein said enzyme is capable of degrading the 
biodegradable polymer, and has no or only a low activity towards insoluble 
cellulose. 
Another embodiment of the present invention relates to a method of 
manufacturing a garment, with a very limited strength loss, with a 
stone-washed or worn look comprising 
(a) coating the fabric with a biodegradable polymer by contacting the 
fabric with a solution of said polymer; 
(b) dyeing the fabric; 
(c) cutting and sewing the fabric into a garment; and 
(d) treating the garment with an effective amount of an enzyme in an 
aqueous medium, wherein said enzyme is capable of degrading the 
biodegradable polymer, and has no or only a low activity towards insoluble 
cellulose. 
Another embodiment of the present invention relates to a method of 
manufacturing, with a very limited strength loss, a garment with a 
stone-washed or worn look comprising 
(a) coating the garment with a biodegradable polymer by contacting the 
fabric with a solution of said polymer; 
(b) dyeing the garment; 
(c) treating the garment with an effective amount of an enzyme in an 
aqueous medium, wherein said enzyme is capable of degrading the 
biodegradable polymer, and has no or only a low activity towards insoluble 
cellulose. 
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION 
According to the present invention the first step in this new method of 
manufacturing a fabric or a garment with a stone-washed or a worn look is 
to coat the yarn or fabric or garment with a biodegradable polymer. 
A characteristic feature of the polymer for use in this invention is that 
it should be able to bind tightly to the surface of the fibers, yarns, 
fabrics or garments in question. 
The biodegradable polymer may typically be a xyloglucan polymer, because 
xyloglucan binds very strongly to cellulose. 
Xyloglucans 
Xyloglucans occur widely in the primary walls of higher plant cells, where 
they are bound in close association with cellulose microfibrils. 
Xyloglucans are linear chains of (1.fwdarw.4).beta.-D-glucan, but, unlike 
cellulose, they possess numerous xylosyl chain units added at regular 
sites of the O-6 position of the glucosyl units of the chain (Carpita, N. 
C. & Gibeaut, D. M. (1993): The plant Journal, 3, pp 1-30). 
Species-specific differences occur as to the distribution of additional 
branching fucosyl-galactosyl residues (Hayashi, T. & Maclachlan, G. 
(1984): Plant Physiol., 75, pp 596-604). For instance, tamarind xyloglucan 
is not fucosylated (Vincken, J.-P. (1996): Enzymic modification of 
cellulose-xyloglucan networks, Thesis Wageningen Agricultural University). 
Commercially available xyloglucan may be purchased in a purified form from 
Megazyme (Australia) or as raw tamarind kernel powder from Polygal 
(POLYGUM 55). 
According to the present invention xyloglucan obtained from monocotyledons 
and/or dicotelydons are preferred, in particular tamarind seeds. 
The xyloglucan used according to the invention may also be a chemically or 
enzymatic modified xyloglucan. 
Coating with a Biodegradable Polymer 
According to the invention the yarn or fabric or garment is contacted with 
a solution of a biodegradable polymer. This may be done in the following 
way: 
Initially a biodegradable polymer solution (e.g. a xyloglucan solution) is 
prepared, the concentration of which depends on the purity of the 
biodegradable polymer. Typically the biodegradable polymer solution has a 
concentration of from about 0.05% (w/v) to about 50% (w/v). 
Purified xyloglucan solutions may be prepared in concentrations ranging 
from about 0.05% (w/v) to about 10% (w/v). 
Crude xyloglucan solutions, e.g., in the form of tamarind kernel powder, 
may be prepared in concentrations ranging from 0.25%-50% (w/v). 
The xyloglucan may be added to the warp thread by methods usually applied 
for warp sizing such as in a conventional slasher, as foam in a horizontal 
pad system, as foam in a knife-over-roll system, or alternatively using 
similar wet out or rinse boxes normally applied prior to dyeing. 
The coating may be performed prior to the wet out, simultaneously with the 
wet out or after the wet out procedure. 
Depending on the purity of the xyloglucan source a rinse procedure may be 
included prior to dyeing. A xyloglucan source like crude tamarind kernel 
powder will contain non-xyloglucan impurities like pectin, starch, 
protein, fat and waxes which may have a negative impact on the adsorption 
of the dye. The rinse may be a hot or a cold rinse in water, optionally 
containing a surfactant (e.g. 0.05-5 g/l). 
Dyeing 
The next step in the method according to the invention is the dyeing of the 
yarn or fabric or garment. 
Preferably the dyeing of the yarn is a ring-dyeing. A preferred embodiment 
of the invention is ring-dyeing of the yarn with a vat dye such as indigo, 
or an indigo-related dye such as thioindigo, or a sulfur dye, or a direct 
dye, or a reactive dye, or a naphthol. The yarn may also be dyed with more 
than one dye, e.g., first with a sulphur dye and then with a vat dye, or 
vice versa. 
The indigo may be derived from the indigo plant material, or synthetic, or 
the biosynthetic indigo available from Genencor International. 
The warp thread may be dyed according to methods known in the art, 
typically by using a continuously process in which the yarn is repeatedly 
dipped into dye-baths containing the dye in question (e.g. indigo in 
reduced (leuco) form). Following each dip, the indigo is oxidized by 
exposing the thread to oxygen (a process known as skying). Alternatively 
the indigo may be oxidized with other oxidizing agents as known in the 
art. 
The dyeing may be carried out in the following way: Initially the dry warp 
thread is pre-wetted, typically the wet out mix contains a wetting agent, 
a chelating agent and sodium hydroxide. 
The dye-bath may typically have the following composition: 
4 kg Indigo rein BASF Pulver K 
0.2 kg Primasol FP (from BASF) 
30 l water preheated to 70-80.degree. C. 
6.5 l Sodium hydroxide 38.degree. Be 
3 kg sodium hydrosulfite 
The volume is adjusted to 50 l, and the solution is hold at 50.degree. C. 
for 30 min. 
From this stock solution a 1000 l dye-bath can be prepared: 
940 l water 
2-3 l sodium hydroxide 38.degree. Be 
1.5-2 kg sodium hydrosulfite 
0.5-1 kg Setamol WS (from BASF) 
50 l stock solution. 
The warp thread may then be dipped in the dye-bath for 5-60 sec, squeezed, 
and oxidized in the air for 1-3 min. The treatment may be performed as 
4-dip, 8-dip, or other degrees of treatment as known in the art. 
After the dyeing operation the dyed yarns are optionally sized before they 
are woven. 
Sizing Agents 
The size may be any sizing agent known in the art, e.g., derived from 
natural polymers, such as starches, modified starches, starch derivatives 
or cellulose derivatives, or synthetic polymers, such as polyvinyl 
alcohol, polyvinyl acetate etc. 
The yarns are then made into fabrics as known in the art. 
Fabrics 
The invention is most beneficially applied to cellulose-containing or 
cellulosic fabrics, such as cotton, viscose, rayon, ramie, linen, lyocell 
(e.g. Tencel, produced by Courtaulds Fibers), or mixtures thereof, or 
mixtures of any of these fibres, or mixtures of any of these fibres 
together with synthetic fibres (e.g. polyester, polyamid, nylon) or other 
natural fibers such as wool and silk. In particular, the fabric is a 
twill, preferably denim. 
After the weaving the fabric is optionally cut and sewn into a garment. 
If the garment or fabric were sized they may now undergo a desizing process 
as known in the art. 
The Desizing Process 
In a preferred process of the invention, conventional desizing enzymes, in 
particular amylolytic enzymes, are used in order to remove 
starch-containing size. 
Therefore, an amylolytic enzyme, preferably an .alpha.-amylase, may be 
added during the process of the invention. Conventionally, bacterial 
.alpha.-amylases are used for the desizing, e.g., an .alpha.-amylase 
derived from a strain of Bacillus, particularly a strain of Bacillus 
licheniformis, a strain of Bacillus amyloliquefaciens, or a strain of 
Bacillus stearothermophilus; or mutants thereof. Examples of suitable 
commercial .alpha.-amylase products are Termamyl.TM., Aquazym.TM. Ultra 
and Aquazym.TM. (available from Novo Nordisk A/S, Denmark) However, also 
fungal .alpha.-amylases can be used. Examples of fungal .alpha.-amylases 
are those derived from a strain of Aspergillus. Other useful 
.alpha.-amylases are the oxidation-stable .alpha.-amylase mutants 
disclosed in WO 95/21247. 
The amylolytic enzyme may be added in amounts conventionally used in 
desizing processes, e.g. corresponding to an .alpha.-amylase activity of 
from about 100 to about 10,000 KNU/l. Also, in the process according to 
the present invention, 1-10 mM of Ca.sup.++ may be added as a stabilizing 
agent. 
The fabric or garment may be desized in the following way: 
If starch is used as sizing agent an amylase may be applied as desizing 
agent: The processing conditions may be 60-70.degree. C. and pH 6-8 for 
10-15 min, using 2-3 g Aquazyme 120L (from Novo Nordisk A/S)/l at a liquor 
ratio from 5:1-10:1. 
A wetting agent compatible with the amylase may be added to wash liquor. 
Several other desizing methods known in the art may alternatively be 
applied. 
Before the finishing process (e.g. the "stone-washing" process) is applied 
a hot or cold rinse may optionally be included. 
The finishing process step according to the invention is performed by using 
an enzyme which is capable of degrading the biodegradable polymer. An 
example of such an enzyme is a xyloglucanase. 
Xyloglucanases 
According to the present invention a xyloglucanase is defined as any enzyme 
which has an activity towards the substrate xyloglucan. 
Preferably the xyloglucanase according to the invention is produced by 
micro-organisms such as fungi or bacteria. 
Examples of useful xyloglucanases are family 12 xyloglucan hydrolyzing 
endoglucanases, in particular family 12 xyloglucan hydrolyzing 
endoglucanases, obtained from e.g. Aspergillus aculeatus as described in 
WO 94/14953. Another useful example is a xyloglucanase produced by 
Trichoderma, especially EGIII. 
The xyloglucanase may also be an endoglucanase with xyloglucanase activity 
and low activity towards insoluble cellulose and high activity towards 
soluble cellulose, e.g., family 7 endoglucanases obtained from, e.g., 
Humicola insolens. 
The used xyloglucanase may also be an enzyme which activity has been 
enhanced by adding a cellulose binding domain to said enzyme. 
According to the present invention the enzyme which is capable of degrading 
the biodegradable polymer may be added at a concentration of 0.1-25000 
.mu.g enzyme protein/g fabric or garment, preferably 0.1-10000 .mu.g 
enzyme protein/g fabric or garment, more preferably 0.5-1000 .mu.g enzyme 
protein/g fabric or garment, in particular 0.5-500 .mu.g enzyme protein/g 
fabric or garment. 
Finishing Process 
The chosen procedure will depend on the enzyme in question. If a xyloglucan 
hydrolyzing endoglucanase from Aspergillus aculeatus, described in WO 
94/14953, is used the processing conditions could be 30-60.degree. C., pH 
3-6 for 10-120 min, using 0.5 mg enzyme/g fabric at a liquor ratio from 
4:1-20:1. 
A surfactant compatible with the enzyme may be added to wash liquor (e.g. 
Novasol P from Novo Nordisk A/S). 
Alternatively the process may be performed using a combination of a 
xyloglucan hydrolyzing endoglucanase and 0.25-1 kg pumice stones/per kg 
jeans. Similar conditions as described above. If pumice stones are used 
there may be a reduced strength of the fabric or garment in question. 
The denim processing may be performed in any machinery known in the art 
such as washer extractors (front or side loaded) or Barrel Washers. 
Optionally, a hot or cold rinse may be included. 
Inactivation should be performed in order to obtain sufficient denaturation 
of the used enzyme. Inactivation conditions may be 70-100.degree. C. for 
10-20 min. at pH above 9.5, but the inactivation conditions will of course 
depend on the specific enzyme in use. 
Additional finishing processes may be carried out as known in the art in 
order to clean up the fabric or obtain a lighter blue shade. 
A mild hydrogen peroxide bleaching may be performed to clean up the fabric 
using 1.5 g 35% hydrogen peroxide/l and 1 g soda ash/l at a pH above 10 
for 10-20 min. at a temperature in the range between 60-80.degree. C. In 
addition a sequestering agent (stabilizer) may be added, e.g. sodium 
silicate. A hot rinse is recommended subsequent to bleaching, and 
surfactants may be added. 
To obtain a lighter blue shade a hypochlorite bleaching may be performed, 
using 8 g sodium hypochlorite/l and 1 g soda ash/l at pH 9-11 for 10 min. 
at 50.degree. C. After a rinse a neutralization is carried out using 1.5 g 
sodium metabisulphite/l for 10 min. at 50.degree. C. A short rinse is 
recommended which may contain surfactants. 
Optionally other finishing agents such as brightening agents or softening 
agents may be used. 
Xyloglucanase Activity 
Xyloglucanase activity may be measured as stated below: 
A: Determination of residual sugar: (According to Vincken, J.-P. (1996): 
Enzymic modification of cellulose-xyloglucan networks, Thesis Wageningen 
Agricultural University, pp 13) A purified source of xyloglucan (e.g. from 
Megazyme, Australia) is dissolved in a suitable buffer (250 .mu.g 
xyloglucan in 100 .mu.l buffer) and incubated with 30-400 ng of enzyme for 
1 or 20 h. The increase in reducing sugar is determined according to the 
procedure of Somogyi using glucose for calibration. 
Other methods for determination of reducing sugar may be performed as 
stated in Methods in Enzymology, vol. 160 (Ed. Wood, W. A. & Kellogg, S. 
T. (1988), Academic Press Inc., pp 87-112), in which enzyme concentrations 
and incubation time should be adjusted to be within the sensitivity range 
of the analysis. 
B: Release of dyed soluble fragments: 
An azurine dyed and crosslinked xyloglucan substrate (AZCL-xyloglucan) may 
be obtained from Meazyme Australia. 0.2 w/v % xyloglucan solution is 
prepared in a suitable buffer. Incubation between 15-60 min. with 0.005-1 
w/v % enzyme. Enzyme activity is measured as release of blue soluble 
fragments after centrifugation, determined as the absorbance at 620 nm in 
the supernatant. 
Amylolytic Activity 
The amylolytic activity may be determined using potato starch as substrate. 
This method is based on the breakdown of modified potato starch by the 
enzyme, and the reaction is followed by mixing samples of the 
starch/enzyme solution with an iodine solution. Initially, a blackish-blue 
colour is formed, but during the break-down of the starch the blue colour 
gets weaker and gradually turns into a reddish-brown, which is compared to 
a coloured glass standard. 
One Kilo Novo alfa Amylase Unit (KNU) is defined as the amount of enzyme 
which, under standard conditions (i.e. at 37.degree. C. +/- 0.05; 0.0003 M 
Ca.sup.2+ ; and pH 5.6) dextrinizes 5.26 g starch dry substance Merck 
Amylum solubile.

The present invention is further illustrated in the following example which 
is not in any way intended to limit the scope of the invention as claimed. 
EXAMPLE 1 
Reflection Measurements 
The reflection measurements which define the look of the fabric according 
to the invention were performed at a wavelength of 420 nm using a 
reflectometer having a measuring diaphragm with a diametrical dimension of 
27 mm (Texflash 2000 from Datacolor International, light source D65). All 
reflection measurements are expressed in % related to a white standard 
(100% reflection). 
The white standard used was a Datacolor International serial no. 2118 white 
calibration standard. 
For calibration purposes a black standard was also used (no. TL-4-405) 
Evaluation: The higher the value the lighter the colour. 
Warp tear strength 
Standard test method for tear resistance for woven fabrics by 
falling-pendulum (Elmendorf Apparatus, ASTM D 1424, using a Elmendorf 
Tearing Tester, Twing-Albert Instrument CO., Philadelphia, USA 19154). 
However, due to the very high strength of twill fabric, the dimensions of 
the cutting die have been reduced to 102 mm.times.55 mm. Conditioning of 
the fabric has been accomplished at 20.degree. C. and 60% RH for 24 hours 
prior to testing. 
Weight Loss/Gain 
Conditioning of the fabric has been accomplished at 20.degree. C. and 60% 
RH for 24 hours prior to weighing. 
EXPERIMENTAL 
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Scouring: 
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Fabric: 1 kg Greige cotton duck, style no. 426 (Test Fabrics Inc). 
Apparatus: 
Washing machine, Wascator FL 120 (Electrolux) 
Scouring: 
3% of NaOH, 0.5 g Inkmaster 750/1 (Rhone Poulenc). 
90.degree. C., 60 min., 12 l de-ionised water. 
Neutral.: 
2% of 100% acetic acid 
50.degree. C., 10 min., 12 l de-ionised water. 
Rinse: Two times in 12 l de-ionised water 
______________________________________ 
______________________________________ 
Coating of scoured swatches with Polygum 55 (POLYGAL ag 
Switzerland): 
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Fabric: 13 .times. 24 cm swatches prepared from the scoured fabric. 
Polygum: 
500 ml of three different Polygum 55 (POLYGAL) 
solutions (0 w/v %, 1.0 w/v % and 5.0 w/v %). Polygum 
55 is dissolved in de-ionised water by heating to 
approx. 90.degree. C. and stirred cold over night 
(magnetic stirrer). 
Coating: 
6 swatches are incubated in each concentration of 
Polygum for 30 min at room temperature. Pressed 
using a wringer (Jupiter from DSW). The swatches are 
drip-dried. 
Rinse: Removal of impurities is carried out by a rinse in 
Wascator FL 120 (Electrolux): A hot rinse in 32 l 
55.degree. C. de-ionised water for 5 min. and two cold rinses 
in 32 l 15.degree. C. de-ionised water for 5 min. The 
swatches are drip-dried. 
Evaluation: 
Polymer uptake and polymer uptake after rinse 
is determined as weight gain as described above 
prior and subsequent to the rinse procedure, 
respectively. 
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Indigo Dyeing of Coated Swatches: 
Stock solution: 
8 g indigo (BASF) 
0.4 g Primasol FP (BASF) 
60 ml de-ionised water 50.degree. C. (stirring for two hours at 50.degree. 
C.) 
0.6 g NaOH 
6.0 g sodium hydrosulfite 
Final dyebath: 
100 ml stock solution 
1.5 g Setamol WS (BASF) 
3.5 g sodium hydrosulfite 
5 ml 50% NaOH 
1880 ml de-ionised water 
Procedure: 
Four coated swatches per Polygum 55 concentration are applied in the dyeing 
procedure. The coated swatches are pre-wetted in 11 5 g Setamol WS/l 
(BASF) for 5-10 min. and squeezed using a wringer (Jupiter from DSW). The 
swatches are dipped in the dyebath for 20 sec., squeezed and oxidised in 
the air for 120 sec. This sequence is repeated additional 6 times (7-dip). 
The swatches are pressed and drip-dried over night. Surplus indigo is 
removed by rinsing in wascator FL 120 (Electrolux): A hot rinse in 32 l 
55.degree. C. de-ionised water for 5 min. and two cold rinses in 32 l 
15.degree. C. de-ionised water for 5 min. 
Evaluation: 
Dye uptake (determined as reflection as described above) with six 
determinations/swatch. 
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Enzyme treatment of indigo dyed coated swatches: 
______________________________________ 
Apparatus: 
Launder-O-meter LP2 (Atlas Electric Devices Company) 
Fabric : 
Indigo dyed coated swatches are sewed together 
to form a tube which is placed in the Launder- 
O-meter beaker, 1 swatch per beaker. Approx. 18 g/swatch. 
Buffer: 50 ml 50 mM citric acid, pH 5.0 is added to each beaker. 
Enzyme: a xyloglucanase (family 12 xyloglucan hydrolyzing 
endoglucanase) obtained from Aspergillus aculeatus as 
described in WO 94/14953. The enzyme is dosed according 
to the experimental outline. 
Time: 60 min. 
Temperature: 
50.degree. C. 
Abrasive aid: 
30 steel nuts (d. 16 mm), 10 steel nuts (d. 10 mm), 
10 star shaped magnets (5 g), 
3 star shaped magnets (3 g) are added to each beaker 
and placed inside the fabric tube. 
Rinse: 2 times in 5 l de-ionised water for 5 min.; tumble dried. 
Evaluation: 
Abrasion is measured on the fabric side facing 
the interior of the launderometer beaker 
(determined as reflection as described above) 
with six determinations/swatch; Delta refl. is 
calculated as (abrasion - dye uptake). Tear 
strength as described above, three determinations/swatch. 
______________________________________ 
______________________________________ 
Swatch Coating with 
+/- 6 mg xyloglucanase/ 
no. Polygum 55 
g textile 
______________________________________ 
1-2 0 w/v % - 
3-4 + 
11-12 1 w/v % - 
13-14 + 
17-18 5 w/v % - 
19-20 + 
______________________________________ 
RESULTS 
The results from the above described Polygum 55 coating experiment are 
outlined in Table 1. 
TABLE 1 
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Conc. of Polygum 55 
0 w/v % 1.0 w/v % 
5.0 w/v % 
______________________________________ 
Polymer uptake %, initial 
0 0.96 3.70 
Polymer uptake %, after rinse 
0 0.44 1.20 
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The polymer uptake increases with increasing concentration of Polygum 55 in 
the coating bath. Excess polymer is removed during the rinse procedure. 
The results from the dyeing and finishing procedure are shown in Table 2. 
When excess polymer is sufficiently removed in a rinse procedure the dye 
uptake is only slightly affected by the polymer concentration, and the dye 
is evenly distributed on the fabric. For each concentration of Polygum 55 
a higher abrasion level is obtained when a xyloglucanase has been added 
during the incubation, compared to a treatment without enzyme, thus 
resulting in a higher delta reflection (delta refl.). Hence, it is 
possible to obtain the desired abraded look on indigo dyed twill by using 
the new twill manufacturing dyeing method. Surprisingly, the increase in 
delta reflection is not accompanied by a concomitant strength loss. 
TABLE 2 
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+/- 
Coating xylo- Abrasion Tear 
Swatch 
with Dye gluca- 
After delta strength 
no. Polygum 55 
uptake nase LOM refl. (N) 
______________________________________ 
1-2 0 w/v % 3.23 - 4.01 0.78 25.06 
3-4 2.99 + 4.06 1.07 23.81 
11-12 1 w/v % 2.35 - 2.93 0.58 25.53 
13-14 2.43 + 3.74 1.30 25.01 
17-18 5 w/v % 3.09 - 3.89 0.79 24.38 
19-20 3.01 + 4.33 1.33 24.28 
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