Reversible heel counter for shoes

A shoe is provided with a reversible heel counter so the shoe can be selectively used as either a slipper or a regular shoe. An inclined slit is placed in each of the quarters, running from the upper edge toward the lower corner of the quarters adjacent the edge that will be joined to the other quarter. The slit is restitched with a zigzag stitch to form a butt joint which acts like a hinge. The quarters are then joined. A generally parabolic shaped heel counter is fastened over the joint, at the upper edge of the quarters, with the tip of the heel counter depending towards the bottom of the quarters where the insole attaches. The hinge line in each of the quarters adjacent the heel allow the heel counter to be selectively positioned down against an insole of a shoe to be used as a heel seat to form a slipper. When the heel counter is positioned upright in a heel counter position, a regular shoe is provided.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
This invention relates generally to the field of footwear, relates 
specifically to slippers and shoes, and relates in particular to deck 
shoes. Deck shoes include shoes with a fabric upper, and a rubber outsole, 
such as tennis shoes, basketball shoes, sneakers and the like. 
Conventional footwear includes slippers, which are a low-cut shoe held onto 
the foot by the upper, which usually consists only of a vamp. They allow a 
person's foot to be inserted into the throat of the slipper, generally 
parallel to the sole. A slipper thus engages along the front part of the 
foot and is not connected to the heel of the foot. The slippers are 
designed to be put on and taken off easily, but often require a shuffle 
step to keep them on the foot, and come off easily when running. 
Shoes engage not only the toe and instep, but also the heel of a person's 
foot. Shoes are designed to engage a person's heel so that the back 
portion of the shoe sole is not free, but moves substantially concurrently 
with a person's heel. This portion of the shoe is called the heel counter. 
The shoe is put on by inserting the foot through an expandable throat of 
the shoe, until the heel counter can be slipped behind the heel of the 
wearer's foot. 
The fit of the shoe can be maintained by laces through eyeholes which allow 
the throat of the shoe to be expanded so the foot can be inserted into the 
shoe, whereupon the laces can tighten to adjust the fit of the shoe on the 
foot. If a slip-on shoe is used, a gore can be used to allow expansion of 
the throat of the shoe while the foot is inserted, yet maintain the shoe 
on the foot after the foot is inserted. Whether laces or a gore is used, 
the heel counter maintains the shoe on the heel of the wearer's foot. 
If the heel counter is too stiff or contoured too differently from the heel 
on the wearer's foot, the wearer's foot will develop blisters. If the heel 
counter is too flexible, that portion of the shoe will collapse so that 
the shoe does not maintain adequate contact with the heel of the wearer's 
foot. This improper contact can lead to blisters, or to a person stepping 
out of the shoes during walking or running. 
Shoes that engage only the front part of a wearer's foot are easy to get on 
and off, but do not adequately contact and support the heel of the 
wearer's foot during running or during fast lateral movements. If the 
wearer begins to lose a shoe during running, it is very easy to actually 
lose the shoe, fall or twist an ankle. Thus while the slipper type of 
footwear is easy to put on, it is also easy to take off, intentionally, or 
inadvertently. 
The use of a heel counter on properly fitted shoes can prevent the footwear 
from coming off inadvertently. However, shoes with a heel counter are 
time-consuming or awkward to put on and take off. A wearer must bend to 
tie or untie the laces, or bend to reach the shoe and slip the heel of the 
foot into the heel counter. Impatient persons, especially children, often 
try to force the foot into the shoe, collapsing the heel counter. 
If the shoe is of cloth construction such as deck shoes, tennis shoes, or 
sneakers, the heel counter can be stepped on and forced against the insole 
akin to be used in a manner similar to a slipper. However forcing the heel 
counter against the insole breaks the heel counter and ruins the shoe. The 
collapsed heel counter causes the shoe to fit improperly as a slipper and 
to easily fall off. Further, collapsing the heel counter destroys the 
strength and rigidity needed to make the shoe fit properly. The importance 
of maintaining the integrity of the heel counter is shown by the 
development of the shoehorn, developed to facilitate the insertion of the 
foot into the shoe without damaging the heel counter. 
The time required to put on the shoe or take it off can become unacceptably 
burdensome in many instances. Japanese customs, for example, often require 
removing shoes before entering rooms. Workers doing outside work during 
inclement weather will often remove their shoes before coming inside. If 
the work activities require constant travel between the inside and 
outside, the footwear must either be removed and put back on numerous 
times, or a protective floor covering must be put down. 
There is thus a need for a shoe that can be easily put on and taken off 
when desired, yet not easily fall off the foot when desired. There is a 
further need for a shoe that can be used as either a slipper engaging the 
front portion of a foot or, when desired, as a shoe which also engages the 
heel of the person wearing the shoe. 
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
Repositionable heel counter means are provided which can be selectively 
positioned in a heel counter position for use as a heel counter in a shoe, 
or can be selectively positioned in a heel seat position for use as a 
slipper. A means is provided to urge the repositionable heel counter to 
remain in the selected position, and to enter the selected position when 
the heel counter is a predetermined distance from the selected position. A 
full gore is preferably provided to maintain the fit of the shoe/slipper, 
even when laces are provided on the shoe. 
This repositioning is achieved by use of a heel counter having a generally 
parabolic shape, with the flat edge being connected to an upper edge of 
the quarters, over a juncture of the quarters at the heel. The tip of the 
heel counter depends toward the insole, but is not fastened to the insole, 
and preferably terminates spaced apart from the insole. This is contrary 
to conventional heel design which has the heel counter fastened to the 
insole, and extending toward the upper edge of the quarters, but 
terminating spaced apart from the upper edge. 
The size and shape of the heel counter of this invention roughly 
corresponds to, but is preferably smaller than, the portion of the insole 
against which the heel counter is placed when in the heel seat position. 
When fastened adjacent the upper edge of the quarters, it has its greatest 
width adjacent that upper edge. Since the width is preferably not greater 
than the corresponding width of the insole, it is relatively small 
compared to the width of heel counters used conventionally, especially 
those used with deck shoes. Conventional heel designs use heel counters 
that wrap entirely around the heel of a wearer's foot and extend to the 
instep of the foot. 
Hinges facilitate the positioning of the heel counter into the selected 
positions. The portion of the quarters in the space between the tip of the 
heel counter and the insole is flexible relative to the combination of the 
heel counter and quarter, and thus acts as a hinge. 
Additional side hinges are placed in the sides of the quarters, on opposite 
sides of the heel counter. These latter hinges preferably take the form of 
hinge lines that extend for at least a portion of the inclined line 
extending from the upper edge of the quarters, rearwardly and downwardly 
toward the juncture of the quarters below the insole. This latter point 
occurs roughly at a longitudinal axis along the center of a bottom of the 
insole, below the heel counter. 
While difficult to describe and measure, when viewed from the side of the 
shoe, these hinge lines are inclined at an angle of between about 
25.degree. to 35.degree., and preferably 30.degree. with respect to a 
plane substantially parallel to the insole, and if the shoe is a deck shoe 
having foxing, which is also substantially parallel to the foxing. 
Preferably, these hinge lines are located along the upper edge of a fold 
formed in the quarters by placing the heel counter of this invention 
against the insole, before these side hinges are inserted. A cut, 
restitched with a merrow stitch, has been found suitable for the line 
hinges. 
The heel counter is located between these side hinge lines, and above the 
hinge in the quarters below the heel counter. These line hinges, and the 
hinge below the heel counter, can cooperate to effectively form a 
continuous, curved hinge which effectively encloses the heel counter. 
The area between the heel counter and the hinge lines generally increases 
from adjacent the insole, toward the upper edge. This area can act as a 
rolling, overcenter hinge to urge the heel counter into one of the 
selected positions, and to maintain the heel counter in the selected 
position. The hinge area below the heel counter can also act in a similar 
overcenter hinge manner. 
The assembly of the shoes of this invention requires different steps be 
performed on the quarters, and a different sequence. The quarters are cut 
along at least a portion of a predetermined line extending from the upper 
edge of the quarters, toward the lower edge, adjacent the portion that 
will be joined to another quarter to form a heel for a shoe. Preferably 
the cut does not extend all the way to the lower edge. This line has an 
inclination of between 47.degree. to 57.degree., and preferably about 
52.degree., with respect to a substantially vertical line placed along the 
location of the juncture at which two quarters will be joined to form a 
heel for a shoe. 
The cut is then restitched with a merrow stitch to form a hinge line. Two 
such quarters are then joined in a butt joint with a backside stay. The 
stitching joining the backside stay preferably crosses the cut and 
restitched joint to prevent the merrow stitch from unraveling. A binding 
is then placed on the upper edge of the joined quarters. Preferably the 
binding also overlaps with one end of the restitched cut so as to prevent 
unraveling of the merrow stitch. 
Eyelets and laces can then be added if desired. Even if eyelets and laces 
are used, a full gore is also used to join the quarters adjacent the 
eyelets. 
There is thus advantageously provided a shoe having a heel counter which 
can be selectively placed in a heel counter position for use as a shoe, or 
placed in a heel seat position for use as a slipper.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT 
Referring to FIG. 1, there is shown a shoe 10, which will be described with 
reference to a deck shoe. Shoe 10 has an outsole 12 generally shaped to 
correspond to the shape of a wearer's foot. An insole 14 has a shape 
corresponding to the outsole 12, and is fastened to the outsole 12. An 
upper 16 comprises a vamp 18 which is connected to inside quarter 20 and 
outside quarter 22, with the terms "inside" and "outside" denoting whether 
the particular quarter 20 or 22 is located on the inside or outside of a 
foot inserted into the shoe 10. 
While it is possible to make them out of one continuous piece of material, 
the quarters 20 and 22 are typically two separate pieces that are joined 
together at the heel of the shoe 10 along a generally vertical line or 
seam referred to as juncture 23. An outside back stay 25 is fastened to 
the exterior side of the joined quarters 20 and 22 over the juncture 23 to 
hold the abutting ends of quarters 20 and 22 together. 
Since the particular shoe described in the preferred embodiment is a deck 
shoe, the upper 16 is adhered to the insole 14 by a strip of foxing 24 
which comprises a strip of rubber. The outsole 12 is connected to the 
upper 16 by a strip of cloth impregnated with rubber, such as friction 26. 
A toe bumper 28 overlaps the foxing 24 and friction 26 at the toe of the 
shoe 10. 
Referring to FIG. 3, there is shown a heel 30 of a conventional shoe. A 
heel counter 32 is located inside of the shoe and is fastened to the 
inside and outside quarters 20 and 22, and to the insole 14. When laid 
flat, the conventional heel counter 32 has a generally semicircular shape, 
with the straight edge being the edge connected to the insole 14. The 
conventional heel counter 32 connects to the insole 14 around a 
substantial portion of the heel 30, and curves up from both sides of the 
insole 14 toward the juncture 23 between the quarters 20 and 22. A collar 
or binding 34 covers the upper edge 33 of quarters 20 and 22. In the 
conventional shoe, the heel counter 32 extends from adjacent a lower edge 
35 of quarters 20 and 22, toward the upper edge 33 and binding 34, but 
ends before reaching the binding 34. The termination of the heel counter 
spaced apart from the binding 34 is especially common with deck shoes. 
Referring to FIGS. 1, 2, 4, 6-7, the heel 36 of the present invention has a 
heel counter 38 that is shaped differently, and attached differently than 
is the conventional heel counter 32 (FIG. 3). The heel counter 38 has a 
shape that roughly corresponds to, but is slightly smaller than, that 
portion of the insole 14 which is adjacent the heel counter 38 when the 
heel counter 38 is pressed against the insole 14. 
Described in more detail, the heel counter 38 has a somewhat parabolic 
shape when taken in plan view as shown best in FIG. 5. The heel counter 38 
has a flat edge 40 representing a chord across the generally parabolic 
shape, and a tip 42 at the end of the curved portion of the parabola. The 
heel counter 38 is centered on the juncture 23 formed by abutting ends of 
the quarters 20 and 22, so that the center 40a of the flat edge 40 lies on 
the juncture 23 of those two quarters. 
The flat edge 40 is covered by and bound by the binding 34, the tip 42 is 
oriented toward the insole 14. The heel counter 38 thus has its greatest 
width adjacent the upper edge 33, with its tip 42 orientated toward, but 
not extending far enough to connect to, the insole 14. The curved edge of 
the heel counter 38 thus extends from the binding 34 toward the insole 14, 
which is just the opposite of conventionally designed heel counters 32, as 
shown in FIG. 3. 
Referring to FIG. 7, the heel counter 38 is not fastened to the insole 14 
as with conventional heel counters 32 (FIG. 3). Preferably heel counter 38 
terminates before reaching the insole 14, so a space forming an area 43 on 
the quarters 20 and 22 is formed between the tip 42 and the insole 14. The 
heel counter 38 is made out of a material that is preferably stiffer than 
the quarters 20 and 22. The attachment of the heel counter 38 to the 
quarters 20 and 22 also stiffens the immediate area at the heel counter 
38. 
Thus, the area 43 will bend before the heel counter 38 will bend. The 
result is that the area 43 acts as a hinge to allow rotation of heel 
counter 38 about a hinge line 45 (FIG. 9) that is in a plane substantially 
parallel to the insole 14, and passing through quarters 20 and 22 at the 
area 43. This hinging ability is very pronounced with deck shoes where the 
quarters 20 and 22 are made of fabric, and the heel counters 38 are made 
of significantly stiffer materials. 
As shown in FIG. 3, the conventionally designed heel 30 has a heel counter 
32 with a significantly longer flat edge, which is fastened to the insole 
14 around a substantial portion of the heel, and terminates before 
reaching the upper edge 33 of quarters 20 and 22. Further, the heel 
counter 32 does not connect to the upper edge 33. 
Referring again to FIGS. 1, 2, 4, 6, 7, and 9, there are, in accordance 
with the invention, correspondingly shaped hinge lines 44 and 46 on inside 
and outside quarters 20 and 22, respectively. The hinge lines 44 and 46 
are on opposite sides of heel counter 38. The hinge lines 44 and 46 have 
one end covered by the binding 34. From a plan view showing the side of 
the shoe 10, the hinge lines 44 and 46 run in a generally straight line 
toward the rearmost, center portion of insole 14. Alternately phrased, the 
hinge lines 44 and 46 run from the upper edge 33 of quarters 20 and 22, 
toward the lower edge 35, adjacent the juncture of the quarters 20 and 22. 
The hinge lines 44 and 46 are connected to the insole 14 by foxing 24. The 
hinge lines 44 and 46 do not extend all the way to the abutting ends of 
the quarters 20 and 22. The hinge lines 44 and 46 are located, and 
generally take the shape of the fold formed by the quarters 20 and 22 when 
the heel counter 38 is positioned against the insole 14. The orientation 
of the hinge lines 44 and 46 are described in further detail in the 
section dealing with how the heels 36 are assembled. 
Preferably, the hinge lines 44 and 46 are formed by cutting or slitting the 
quarters 20 and 22, and then restitching them to form a butt seam that 
allows rotation of the quarters 20 and 22 about the cut or slit. A 
stitching found suitable for this use is diversely called a merrow stitch, 
a butt stitch or a zigzag stitch. Preferably, the stitching should be as 
close to the cut edges of the hinges 44 and 46 as possible, while not 
being so close as to rip through the quarters 20 and 22. A spacing about 
5/16 inch between holes on opposite sides of the hinge 44 and 46 has been 
found suitable. Ten to twelve threads per inch are preferred for this 
merrow stitch, which is far greater than the 6-8 threads per inch normally 
used for a merrow stitch. 
The butt joint, combined with the marrow stitch, allows the portion of the 
quarters 20 and 22 on the side of the cut adjacent the back counter 38, to 
rotate about hinge lines 44 and 46 without substantially flexing the 
portion of the quarters 20 and 22 on the opposing side of the cut. Thus, 
the marrow stitching acts as a line hinge allowing that portion of the 
quarters on each side of the cut to rotate independently. 
As seen best in FIGS. 1, 2, and 6, the shape of the heel counter 38, and 
the orientation of the hinge lines 44 and 46 is such that there is an area 
49 between the heel counter 38 and the adjacent hinge line 44 or 46, on 
each quarter 20 and 22. The distance between the heel counter 38 and the 
adjacent hinges 44 and 46 generally increases from the insole 14 toward 
the upper edge 33. Again, the quarters 20 and 22 are of a material that is 
much less stiff than the heel counter 38, especially for deck shoes where 
cloth is used for the quarters 20 and 22. Thus the area 49 is flexible 
relative to the heel counter 38. 
The functioning of the heel 36 will now be described with reference to 
FIGS. 1, 4, 7, and 9. The heel 36 can be used to change the shoe 10 from a 
slipper into a regular shoe. The heel counter 38 is moved toward the 
insole 14 so that it lies against a heel seat 48 (FIG. 9) of insole 14. 
The quarters 20 and 22 hinge along predetermined hinge lines 44 and 46, 
respectively. The area 43 between the tip 42 and insole 14 also acts as a 
hinge to facilitate repositioning of the heel counter 38 by rotation about 
line 45. 
The hinges allow the heel counter 38 to be repositioned from an upright 
orientation substantially perpendicular to the insole 14, for use as a 
shoe, into a position adjacent and substantially parallel to the heel seat 
48 and insole 14 (FIG. 9), for use as a slipper. 
When the heel counter 38 is positioned against the insole 14, as in FIG. 9, 
the heel counter 38 effectively acts as a heel seat, and this position is 
referred to as the heel seat position. When the heel counter 38 is in the 
upright position, as in FIGS. 1 and 4, it can be used as a heel counter, 
and this position is referred to as the heel counter position. 
Thus the heel counter 38 can be releasably repositioned to be used as a 
heel seat or as a heel counter. The heel counter 38 can be positioned to 
form a shoe which engages a wearer's heel, or it can be positioned to form 
a slipper allowing the easy insertion of a wearer's foot without engaging 
the heel of the wearer's foot. Viewed slightly differently, the heel 36 is 
designed to be reversible such that it can be positioned in a heel counter 
position to form a shoe which engages a wearer's heel, or it can be 
positioned in a heel seat position to form a slipper allowing the easy 
insertion of a wearer's foot without engaging the heel of the wearer's 
foot. 
The configuration and stiffness of the heel counter 38 when attached to the 
quarters 20 and 22, the relative flexibility of the quarters 20 and 22, 
and the location and hinge affect of the hinge lines 44 and 46 also affect 
how well the shoe 10 fits when used as a regular shoe or when configured 
to be used as a slipper. If the heel counter 38 extends so far toward 
lower edge 35 so as to connect to the insole 14, the heel counter 38 will 
not fold down well, and will cause the quarters 20 and 22 to flair out and 
not contact any portion of the wearer's foot, thus causing a very poor 
fit. 
This aspect is most readily seen if a conventional heel 30, as shown in 
FIG. 3, is taken with the wearer just stepping on the heel 30 to force it 
against the insole 14. The heel counter 32 resists bending and causes 
"winging" or excessive flair-out of the quarters 20 and 22. The 
conventional heel 30 is not designed to flex in this manner, and even if 
the heel counter 32 is flexible enough to bend without breaking, it will 
lose its rigidity and shape, and will not sufficiently support the heel of 
the wearer's foot when the shoe is used as a regular shoe. Further, the 
flairing-out causes a poor fit so that the shoe does not even work well as 
a slipper, and causes the wearer to grip the shoe with the toes of the 
foot in order to keep the it from falling off. 
Thus, a conventional heel 30 is not designed to enable a shoe to function 
as both a shoe and as a slipper, and cannot be used as both. If such use 
is attempted, the integrity of the heel counter 32 is destroyed so that 
the shoe does not function well as either a shoe or a slipper. Referring 
to FIGS. 1, 4, 6, and 9, if the inclination of the hinge lines 44 and 46 
with respect to insole 14 is too great or too perpendicular, the shoe does 
not hold onto the wearer's foot as well as if the cut were more inclined. 
It is believed preferable that the hinge lines 44 and 46 fall along the 
upper edge of a fold formed in the quarters 20 and 22, respectively, when 
there is no hinge 44 and 46 but when the heel counter 38 is placed against 
the insole 14, as in FIG. 9. 
Defining the location and orientation of this hinge line is difficult on an 
assembled shoe as the quarters 20 and 22 are typically curved and have no 
straight lines, nor any completely vertical or completely horizontal 
lines. The location and orientation of the hinge lines 44 and 46 may be 
generally described with reference to a longitudinal axis running along 
the center of a bottom surface of insole 14. The hinge lines 44 and 46 are 
located along at least a portion of a line extending from the upper edge 
33 toward the portion of this longitudinal axis which is below the heel 
counter 38. 
Referring to FIG. 2, another way of describing the orientation is that if 
the foxing 24 is placed in a substantially horizontal position, an angle 
"A" in the range of 25.degree. to 35.degree. with respect to the 
horizontal plane, or about 65.degree. to 55.degree. with respect to the 
vertical plane, is believed suitable for hinge lines 44 and 46. 
Preferably, the angle is about 30.degree. from the horizontal, or 
60.degree. from the vertical plane as those planes are described above. If 
the foxing 24 is assumed to be substantially parallel with the insole 14, 
then these angles would be with respect to the insole 14. Again, however, 
the exact angle is difficult to determine because of the curved nature of 
the quarters 20 and 22 and the construction of the shoes 10. 
The shape of the the heel counter 38 is shown in FIG. 5. The size of the 
heel counter 38 found suitable for deck shoes of sizes 9-13 has a flat 
edge 40 with a length of about two inches with the distance from the 
center 40a of flat edge 40 to the tip 42 also being about two inches. The 
heel counter 38 is made out of the same material as conventional heel 
counters, such as rag compound to a duck boot having a thickness of 0.07 
to 0.08 inch, including the boot duck cloth. 
If the heel counter 38 is too large, it will not lay sufficiently flat in a 
heel seat position adjacent the insole 14, and will not pop down but will 
rather resist bending into the heel seat position. The same result occurs 
if the heel counter 38 is made too wide. If the heel counter 38 is made 
generally smaller, the heel 36 will move into the heel seat position 
adequately, but it will not reverse into the upright or heel counter 
position well, nor will it fit the heel of the wearer's foot as well. A 
similar result occurs if the heel counter 38 is made too narrow. Further, 
if too narrow, the heel counter 38 will not wrap around the heel of the 
wearer's foot and thus will not adequately support or fit the heel of the 
wearer's foot when in the upright position, or heel counter position, for 
use as a shoe. 
If the heel counter 38 is made shorter such that the distance between the 
flat edge 40 the tip 42 is smaller, the heel counter 38 becomes more 
collapsible, loses its rigidity, does not stay up on a foot as well when 
in the upright, or heel counter position. If made sufficiently small or if 
it lacks sufficient stiffness, it will collapse like a "sock on a 
rooster." If the heel counter 38 is made too long, it will not move into 
the heel seat position, nor will it lay sufficiently flat. 
The configuration of the heel 36 also helps position the heel counter 38 in 
its two selectable positions for use as a heel seat, or as a heel counter. 
Moving the heel counter 38 from the heel counter position toward the 
insole 14 causes the area 49 of quarters 20 and 22 to bend and roll down, 
somewhat like a rolling hinge action, but the rolling appears to stop at 
the hinge lines 44 and 46. This rolling action inhibits movement of the 
heel counter 38 from the heel counter position. After the heel counter 38 
has moved close enough to the insole 14, the flexibility of area 49 of 
quarters 44 and 46 appears to urge the heal counter against the insole 14 
and into the heel seat position. The area 49 further appears to resist or 
inhibit movement of the heel counter 38 out of the heel seat position. 
Similarly, after the heel counter 38 is moved a certain distance away from 
the insole 14 from the heel seat position, the area 49 also appears to 
urge the heel counter 38 into the heel counter position. 
Since the quarters 20 and 22 are flexible relative to the heel counter 38, 
the heel counter 38 does not substantially bend during this repositioning. 
Referring to FIG. 7, the heel counter 38 is not connected to the insole 14, 
and does not extend sufficiently far to be connected to the insole 14. 
Preferably, the tip 42 of the heel counter 38 does not extend past the top 
of the foxing 24. Since the construction of the deck shoes 10 is such that 
the top of the foxing 24 is slightly above the insole 14, there is always 
a slight ridge when the heel 36 is popped down against the insole 14, into 
the heel seat position. This slight offset is believed to be advantageous 
in that it provides some support to the periphery of the heel of the 
wearer's foot and helps maintain the slipper on the foot. 
As previously mentioned, the flexibility of the area 43 of the quarters 20 
and 22 located between the tip 42 and the insole 14 acts as a hinge to 
facilitate the repositioning of the heel 36. It is further believed that 
the location and flexibility of area 43 acts as a positioning device which 
maintains the heel 36 in the pop down, slipper configuration, or the 
popped up, shoe configuration. It is also possible that the hinge lines 44 
and 46 can join hinge line 45, to form a continuous, but curved hinge line 
which allows repositioning of heel counter 38 between the heel counter 
position and the heel seat position. The continuity of such a hinge line 
is seen best in FIG. 9. 
The slight offset between the tip 42 and the insole 14 and the flexibility 
of the quarters between the tip 42 and the insole 14, which, when combined 
with the relative rigidity of the heel counter 38, is believed to act as 
an overcenter hinge such that the heel counter 38 pops down and remains in 
the heel seat position, and will not pop up until moved past the offset, 
and once past that offset, will tend to continue moving up of its own 
accord into the heel counter position for use as a shoe to support the 
heel of the wearer's foot. 
Thus, the location and relative rigidity of the heel counter 38, is also 
believed to cooperate with relative flexibility of the quarters 20 and 22, 
to form an overcenter hinge. Moving the heel counter 38 a predetermined 
distance toward the heel counter position will urge the heel counter 38 
into that position and help maintain that position. Moving the heel 
counter 38 a predetermined distance toward the insole 14, will urge the 
heel counter 38 into the heel seat position and will help maintain that 
position. The predetermined hinge lines in the quarters 20 and 22, are 
also believed to cooperate with this overcenter hinge aspect as previously 
described. 
There is thus advantageously provided a heel design which supports the 
wearer's foot when used as a shoe, but which can be reconfigured to form a 
slipper which also adequately supports the foot. There is advantageously 
provided a heel counter which can be reversibly used as a heel counter or 
as a heel seat. 
Referring to FIG. 4 for slip-on shoes it is not uncommon to have a gore 50 
connecting the front portion of quarters 20 and 22, in order to allow the 
throat of the shoe 10 to expand for insertion of the wearer's foot. The 
gore 50 generally comprises an elastic member which maintains the fit of 
the shoe on the wearer's foot. The pop-up heel 36 of the present invention 
is not limited to use with slip-on type shoes. Referring to FIGS. 1, 2, 
and 9, there is shown a novel shoe 10 having eyelets 52 through which 
laces 54 are inserted to fasten the shoe to the wearer's foot. However, in 
addition to, and preferably instead of a tongue, there is a full gore 56 
connecting the quarters 20 and 22. The full gore 56 maintains the shoe 10 
on the wearer's foot when a shoe 10 is configured to be used as a slipper. 
The laces 54 can be decorative, but preferably can be used to adjust the 
tightness of the shoe on the foot. In activities requiring lateral 
movement, the laces 54 can provide advantages over the slip-on style of 
shoe. 
The unusual shape and construction of the heel 36 of the present invention 
requires an assembly method which is different from present techniques. 
Referring to FIG. 3, the normal construction of a deck shoe requires 
joining the quarters 20 and 22 by butting the ends together to form 
juncture 23, and joining them by use of an outside back stay 25 (see FIG. 
2). Typically four seams are used to accomplish this joint. The binding 34 
is then placed on the upper edges 33 (FIG. 6) of the now joined quarters 
20 and 22. The heel counter 32, is then fastened to the now joined 
quarters 20 and 22, with the straight edge of the heel counter 32 being 
adjacent, and substantially parallel to the lower edge 35 of quarters 20 
and 22. The heel counter 32 is centered on the juncture 23 of the quarters 
20 and 22. The free ends of the quarters 20 and 22 are then either joined 
by a gore 50 if the shoe 10 is a slip-on, or, if laces are to be used, or 
provided with eyelets 52 (FIG. 1) and then joined to a tongue. The joined 
quarters 20 and 22 are then connected to the vamp 18, and subsequently to 
the insole 14 and outsole 12. 
Referring to FIG. 6, in the shoe of the present invention, each of the 
quarters 20 and 22 are provided with a hinge line 44 and 46, respectively, 
before they are joined. As shown, a portion of the quarters 20 and 22 have 
been cut, stitched, the heel counter 38 attached, and the binding 34 
attached. The view of FIG. 6 is taken in plan view, with the upper edge 33 
in a substantially horizontal orientation. When thus viewed, the hinge 
lines 44 and 46 extend from the upper edge 33 toward the lower edge 35, at 
the juncture 23 of the quarters 20 and 22. When thus viewed, the joint 
line of juncture 23 is substantially vertical, and the hinge lines 44 and 
46 are inclined at an angle "B" of between 47.degree. to 57.degree. from 
the vertical, or 33.degree. to 43.degree. from the horizontal. The 
preferred angle is believed to be about 38.degree. from the horizontal, or 
52.degree. from the vertical. The exact angles are difficult to determine 
because of the curved nature of the joined quarters 20 and 22. 
Referring to FIGS. 7 and 8, there is shown a typical quarter 20 or 22. 
Since the procedure is the same, the procedure will be described with 
respect to inside quarter 20, as if the shoe were being assembled by hand. 
A hinge is placed in the quarters. This hinge is preferably achieved by 
cutting the quarters at a predetermined location. This cut can be 
performed by hand as follows. A marker 58 is placed on the interior side 
of inside quarter 20. The marker 58 is a piece of stiff material, such as 
plastic, having three edges cut to correspond to the shape of the edges of 
the quarter 20 which will form the upper heel portion or heel counter 
portion of the shoe 10. The marker 58 has a straight, marking edge 60 
which is approximately 4.25 inches long for a shoe of size 9-13. When the 
marker 58 is placed on the quarter 20, and the edges of marker 58 aligned 
with the edges of counter 20, then the marking edge 60 is correctly 
positioned to indicate the length and location of hinge line 44. 
Preferably, the hinge line 44 runs from the upper edge 33 toward the lower 
edge 35 and corner of the quarter 20 that will form juncture 23 (FIGS. 6 
and 7). 
A mark 62 is then made on the quarter 20 corresponding to the marking edge 
60. The marker 58 is then removed, and a cut is made along the mark 62. 
Note that preferably, the mark 62 does not completely separate the quarter 
20 into two parts, but preferably leaves them attached. The cut is then 
restitched to form a hinge line. A zigzag stitch, as previously described, 
is used to join the cut portions of quarter 20 so as to form a butt joint 
which acts as a hinge. There is thus provided a means of placing hinge 
lines 44 and 46 at predetermined locations in the quarters 20 and 22, and 
thus in the shoe 10. 
After the quarters 20 and 22 are cut and rejoined to form hinge lines 44 
and 46, the quarters 20 and 22 are joined in the normal manner, typically 
by use of a butt joint and outside back stay 25. Preferably, however, the 
stitches on the back stay 25 overlap with the stitching forming hinge 
lines 44 and 46 to prevent unraveling of the stitching. 
The heel counter 38 is then positioned between the hinge lines 44 and 46, 
so its straight side 40 is adjacent the upper edge 33 of quarters 20 and 
22, and the tip 42 is toward the lower edge 35. Alternately phrased, the 
heel counter 38 depends downward from the upper edge 33 toward the lower 
edge 35 of the quarters 20 and 22. The heel counter 38 is then attached to 
the inside of the joined quarters 20 and 22. The attachment is done by use 
of a piece of cloth tape and double stitches known in the art and not 
described in detail herein. 
Joining the heel counter 38 at the upper edge 33 of the quarters 20 and 24, 
with the tip 42 extending toward the lower portion of the quarters 20 and 
24 which will be joined to the insole 14, is opposite the normal practice. 
Thus, the heel counter 38 is positioned in an orientation opposite to that 
used with conventional assembly methods, and is further attached to the 
upper edge of the quarters 20 and 22, which is opposite the conventional 
methods. 
The binding 34 is then placed on the upper edge 33 of the joined quarters 
20 and 22. The binding 34 preferably connects to the cut along mark 62 
which extended to the upper edge 33. The binding 34 also covers and 
connects the flat edge 40 (FIG. 5) of the heel counter 38 to the quarters 
20 and 22. 
The cut made along the mark 62 is preferably long enough, and the outside 
back stay 25 is wide enough, such that the outside back stay 25 crosses 
over the cut along the mark 62. Since the zigzag stitch made along the 
mark 62 can unravel, the outside back stay 25 serves to fasten the stitch, 
and stop the unraveling of the stitching from the end of the cut. 
Referring to FIG. 4, if the shoe 10 is of a slip-on style, the assembly and 
construction proceeds in a normal manner, with a gore 50 being connected 
to the front ends of the quarters 20 and 22, after which the vamp 18 is 
attached to form an upper 16. The upper 16 is then connected to the insole 
14 by use of foxing 24. The outsole 12 is then connected by use of 
friction 26. Finally, toe bumper 28 is attached and, if desired, a heel 
label 64 (FIG. 2) is placed on the friction 26 at the heel of the shoe. 
Referring to FIGS. 1, 2, and 9, if the shoe 10 of this invention is to 
contain laces, the procedure to complete the shoe is different after the 
attachment of the binding 34. At that point, the eyelets 52 are formed in 
the front edge of the quarters 20 and 22. A full gore 56 is then connected 
to opposing sides of the quarters 20 and 22 in order to join those 
quarters. Preferably, the front portion of the quarters 20 and 22, 
adjacent the eyelets 52, are stitched together to fix the locations of the 
eyelet 52 relative to one another. The vamp 18 is then connected, and the 
remaining steps in assembling the shoe are the same as previously 
described. 
There is thus provided a method by which the heel 36 is assembled by 
cutting and restitching the quarters 20 and 22 to form hinge lines 44 and 
46; joining the quarters 20 and 22, preferably so as to prevent unraveling 
of the stitching on the hinge lines 44 and 46; placing the heel counter 38 
on the joined quarters 20 and 22 so the heel counter 38 depends from the 
edges of the quarters 20 and 22 that will be exposed; fastening the heel 
counter 38 to the joined quarters 20 and 22 in the downward orientation 
and with the flat edge 40 adjacent the edge of the quarters 20 and 22; and 
binding the heel 36, preferably so as to prevent unraveling of the 
stitches forming the hinge lines 44 and 46, and preferably so as to bind 
the flat edge 40 to the quarters 20 and 22.