Device including a brush for applying makeup, a method of manufacture, and an applicator

A device for applying a substance, in particular a cosmetic such as mascara, includes a receptacle containing a supply of the substance, and an applicator having an axis, the applicator being provided on the axis at one end with a handle element and at the other end with an applicator element, the handle element and the applicator element being interconnected by a link element. The applicator element includes a twisted wire type brush whose core extends in a direction that is not parallel to the axis of the applicator, and the link element and the brush are shaped in such a manner that the bristles extending from the link element for use in applying the substance are contained in a sector of angular extent that is not greater than 180.degree. about the core.

The present invention relates to the field of devices for applying makeup, 
e.g. mascara. 
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
Devices for applying mascara are known which comprise a receptacle 
containing a supply of the makeup and fitted with a wiper member, and an 
applicator provided at one end with a handle element and at its other end 
with an applicator element, the handle element and the applicator element 
being united by a link element, the applicator element being withdrawn 
from the receptacle through the wiper member. 
In particular, devices are known in which the applicator element is 
constituted by a twisted wire brush type of brush, i.e. a brush whose 
bristles are held between the turns of a core that is made up of at least 
two wires twisted together. 
The brush is fixed to the end of a rod secured to a handle element that 
also constitutes a cap for closing the receptacle. 
Such devices make it possible to apply makeup properly, however the 
orientation of the bristles relative to the axis of the applicator does 
not enable the eyelashes to be coated in makeup, to be smoothed, to be 
separated, or to be curved in a manner that is entirely satisfactory. 
Thus, French patent application FR-A-2 738 127 proposes an applicator whose 
applicator element is constituted by a flat brush. 
That brush comprises a series of bristles implanted in the end of the 
handle of the applicator and lying substantially on the axis thereof. 
Compared with the above-mentioned applicators that include a twisted wire 
brush type of brush, that type of applicator presents the advantage of 
using bristles that are longer so that making-up can be performed more 
quickly and also providing satisfactory results concerning separation and 
curving of the eyelashes. 
In particular, the applicator makes it possible to smooth the eyelashes 
over their entire length, from the base to the tip, by using a simple 
movement with the bristles of the applicator extending tangentially 
relative to the eyelashes. 
Nevertheless, it is more difficult to install the bristles on the handle of 
that type of applicator than it is when making a twisted wire brush type 
of brush. 
In particular, when the bristles are implanted in tufts on the handle and 
are clamped thereto, they tend to splay apart from the axis of the handle, 
so that method of fixing the bristles does not enable them to be oriented 
accurately or with a distribution that is as uniform as desired. 
OBJECTS AND SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
A particular object of the invention is to provide a novel device for 
applying a substance, in particular a cosmetic, that has the 
above-mentioned advantages of a flat brush while still making it easier to 
install the bristles. 
The device of the invention comprises a receptacle containing a supply of 
substance, and an applicator having an axis, the applicator being provided 
on said axis at one end with a handle element and at the other end with an 
applicator element, the handle element and the applicator element being 
interconnected by a link element, wherein the applicator element comprises 
a twisted wire brush type brush whose core extends in a direction that is 
not parallel to the axis of the applicator, and wherein the link element 
and the brush are shaped in such a manner that the bristles extending from 
the link element for use in applying the substance are contained in a 
sector of angular extent that is not greater than 180.degree. about said 
core. 
By means of the invention, an applicator is made available in which the 
bristles of the applicator element are easy to fix to the applicator while 
using the techniques that are conventional in the manufacture of twisted 
wire brush type brushes. 
The invention also makes it easy to orient the bristles in a desired 
direction, possibly by using the link element to constrain them to take up 
a determined orientation, and the invention also makes it easy to obtain a 
relatively uniform distribution of the bristles. 
Preferably, the brush is secured at at least two points along its length to 
the link element. 
In a particular embodiment, the link element is substantially flat. 
Still in a particular embodiment, the bristles for applying the substance 
extend over a sector of angular extent about the core that is less than 
120.degree., preferably less than 900, and more preferably less than 
60.degree.. 
When the device has a wiper member housed in the receptacle with the 
applicator element being extracted from the receptacle through the wiper 
member, the link element is advantageously of a width not less than the 
width of the brush, so that the core of the brush is completely sheltered 
by the link element when the brush goes through the wiper member. 
In other words, in spite of the fact that the core is not parallel to the 
direction in which the applicator is extracted from the receptacle, the 
brush is protected by the link element against any damage from the wiper 
member while the applicator is being inserted or withdrawn, and the wiper 
member can be relatively simple in structure. 
The link element is advantageously shaped in such a manner as to prevent 
the bristles that are used for applying the substance from bending back 
when the applicator is returned into the receptacle. 
In addition, the link element can advantageously contribute to stiffening 
the bristles of the brush that are used for applying the substance by 
holding them in a determined direction, whereas without the link element, 
the bristles would be held only by the core and would bend too easily, 
thus impeding combing and smoothing of the eyelashes, for example. 
In addition, by means of the invention, it is possible without any 
particular constraint to implant any type of bristle suitable for use when 
making twisted wire brush type brushes, and in particular it is possible 
to use bristles of cross-section that is not circular and/or not constant 
from one end of the bristle to the other, thereby obtaining a specific 
makeup effect. 
In particular, it is possible to use all of the types of bristle described 
in above-mentioned French patent application FR-A-2 738 127, and in 
particular bristles that are soft, elastic, slippery, antibacterial, flat, 
of fluted section, hollow, folding, twisted, or corkscrew-shaped, with a 
mixture of various diameters, with different diameters in alternation, 
with different sections either mixed together or in alternation, the 
bristles being more or less numerous, with treatments being applied to 
their ends and/or along their length, of various lengths, and/or flocked. 
In a particular embodiment, the bristles for applying the substance 
constitute a bundle centered on a plane containing the axis of the 
applicator. 
In another particular embodiment, the bristles for applying the substance 
constitute a bundle centered on a plane extending obliquely relative to 
the axis of the applicator. 
Still in a particular embodiment, the bristles for applying the substance 
constitute a bundle that diverges going away from the link element when 
the applicator is observed in section in a plane perpendicular to the 
core. 
In another particular embodiment, the bristles for applying the substance 
constitute a bundle that converges going away from the link element when 
the applicator is observed in a section plane perpendicular to the core. 
In another particular embodiment, the bristles for applying the substance 
are substantially parallel in their free portions extending beyond the 
link element. 
Still in a particular embodiment, the bristles for applying the substance 
constitute a bundle in which the bristles are of length that decreases 
from the inside of the bundle towards the outside of the bundle when the 
applicator is observed in section in a plane perpendicular to the core. 
In another particular embodiment, the link element has a groove and the 
core of the brush is inserted in the groove, the length of the groove is 
preferably not less than the length of the core so that the brush is held 
to the link element over its entire length. 
Relatively short bristles are advantageously left around the core of the 
brush so as to bear against the inside of said groove and hold the brush 
therein by friction. 
By means of this type of mounting, it is possible to provide a standard 
link element that is capable of receiving a brush selected from a 
plurality of brushes as a function of the desired makeup effect. 
In addition, the shape of the groove is advantageously used to act on the 
direction in which the bristles of the brush are oriented. 
In particular, the width of the opening of the groove can be small enough 
to urge together the bristles of the brush that are used for applying the 
substance once the brush has been put into place in said groove, thereby 
making a brush that is flatter, or even tapering. 
Furthermore, the longitudinal edges of the groove can overlie the bristles 
for a fraction of their length so as to constrain them to take up a 
determined direction and thereby contribute to increasing the stiffness 
thereof. 
The groove can also be open in a direction that is at an angle with the 
longitudinal axis of the applicator, so as to incline the plane of the 
bundle of bristles used for applying the substance relative to the 
longitudinal axis of the applicator, e.g. for the purpose of making the 
applicator easier to manipulate. 
In a particular embodiment, the brush is fixed via its two ends to the link 
element, preferably bearing between its ends against the front edge of the 
link element. 
The brush can then rest against a curved surface, e.g. a surface which is 
convex or concave towards the outside, giving the brush a profile that is 
adapted to the use for which it is intended. 
Still in a particular application, the core extends in rectilinear manner 
along a direction that makes an angle with the axis of the applicator, 
e.g. to facilitate the operation of making-up. 
Still in a particular application, the link element has teeth having 
substantially the same orientation as the bristles of the brush that are 
used for applying the substance. 
Said teeth may advantageously be integrally molded with the link element. 
In a particular embodiment, the receptacle houses a wiper member. 
In a particular embodiment, the wiper member comprises a block of foam, 
preferably a foam having cells that are open or semi-open. 
In a variant, the wiper member has at least one flocked edge and the link 
element then preferably has a narrow portion that engages said flocked 
edge when the applicator is in place in the receptacle, such that the 
bristles ot the flocking are not significantly compressed by the link 
element. 
In a particular embodiment, the handle element includes a moving portion 
for locking the applicator to the receptacle. 
Preferably, the length of the free portions of the bristles extending 
beyond the link element for use in applying the substance lies in the 
range 1 mm to 60 mm, preferably in the range 3 mm to 30 mm, and more 
preferably still in the range 5 mm to 15 mm. 
In a particular embodiment, the brush has 10 to 40 bristles per turn. 
The invention also provides a method of making an applicator of the 
invention, the method comprising the steps consisting in: 
making a twisted wire brush type brush by holding bristles captive between 
at least two twisted-together wires; 
machining the brush in such a manner that the bristles that are for use in 
applying the substance extend, when the brush is observed in a section 
plane perpendicular to the core, over a sector of angular extent that is 
less than 180.degree.; and 
securing the brush, preferably via at least two points along its length, to 
one end of a link element which is provided at its other end with a handle 
element. 
In a particular implementation of the method, the brush is machined 
differently as a function of position along the longitudinal axis of the 
brush, thereby giving it a specific profile that is specially adapted to 
the desired makeup effect. 
It is thus possible to machine the brush in such a manner as to provide 
teeth or to ensure that the bristles that are to be used for applying the 
substance are of a length that decreases from one longitudinal end of the 
brush towards the other. 
Still in a particular implementation of the method, the method further 
comprises the step of securing the brush to the link element by engaging 
it in a groove of the link element, said groove being provided with an 
opening through which the bristles for applying the substance project. 
The invention also provides an applicator for applying a substance, the 
applicator having an axis and being provided along said axis at one end 
with a handle element and at the other end with an applicator element, the 
handle element and the applicator element being united by a link element, 
wherein the applicator element comprises a twisted wire brush type brush 
whose core extends in a direction that is not parallel to the axis of the 
applicator, the link element and the brush also being shaped in such a 
manner that the bristles which extend from the link element for use in 
applying the substance are contained in a sector of angular extent not 
greater than 180.degree. about said core. 
The invention also provides the use of a device as mentioned above for 
making-up the eyelashes.

MORE DETAILED DESCRIPTION 
The device 1 shown in FIG. 1 comprises an applicator 2 and a receptacle 3 
of generally flat shape. 
The applicator 2 has a longitudinal axis X and comprises at one end a 
handle element 4 and at its other end an applicator element 5 whose 
structure is described in detail below. The handle element 4 and the 
applicator element 5 are united by a link element 6, which is generally 
flat in shape and suitable for being received in the receptacle 3, and it 
can be flexible or rigid. 
In this example, the axis X is rectilinear, but in a variant that is not 
shown, it need not be rectilinear. 
The link element 6 can be made as a single piece by molding a plastics 
material, or it may comprise a plurality of pieces that are made 
separately, and the applicator element 5 can be secured to the link 
element by means of a piece that is fitted to the remainder of the link 
element. 
As can be seen in FIGS. 2 and 3, in the embodiment described, the 
receptacle 3 contains a substance P of viscous consistency, e.g. mascara. 
In the example under consideration, the receptacle 3 is made by assembling 
together a body 7 and an endpiece, the endpiece being provided with a neck 
8 extending the body 7, an inner sealing skirt 9 bearing in sealed manner 
against the inside surface of the body 7, and an outer mounting skirt 10 
provided with portions in relief 11 that snap into a groove 12 formed in 
the outside surface of the body 7. 
At its base, the neck 8 has an inwardly-directed collar 13 which 
co-operates with the inner skirt 9 to secure a wiper member constituted in 
this example by a block of foam 14, which member has an axial slot 15 
passing therethrough that is substantially closed after the applicator has 
been withdrawn, as can be seen in FIG. 3. The thickness of the link 
element where it passes through the block of foam when the applicator is 
in place in the receptacle is preferably small enough to avoid excessively 
compressing the foam and deforming the wiper member in the end, for 
example this thickness may lie in the range 0.8 mm to 2.5 mm. 
It will be observed that an annular space 16 is provided around the block 
of foam 14 behind the inner skirt 9 so as to enable it firstly to deform 
more easily when the applicator element 5 passes therethrough, and 
secondly to incline the link element 6 relative to the axis of the 
receptacle 3 if necessary in order to use the applicator element 5 to 
remove substance P from the side wall of the body 7. 
In the example described, the wiper member 14 is constituted by foam having 
cells that are open or semi-open. 
The handle element 4 comprises a body 17 that is closed at one end 18, and 
on which there is mounted a ring 19 that is slidable between a position 
for locking the applicator 2 on the receptacle 3, as shown in FIG. 2, and 
a position for withdrawing the applicator, as shown in FIG. 3. 
In its displacement, the ring 19 is guided by a slideway type link, e.g. 
constituted by studs 20 formed on the ring 19 and retained in slots 21 
formed in the body 17. 
The link element 6 is secured to the handle element 4 by means of a 
mounting skirt 22 inserted as a force-fit in the opening of the body 17. 
On the body 17, the handle element 4 has an annular sealing lip 23 designed 
to press against the inside surface of the neck 6 when the applicator 2 is 
in place, as can be seen in FIG. 2. 
The handle element 4 also has elastically deformable retaining lugs 24 
capable of engaging in grooves 25 formed in the neck 8 for the purpose of 
retaining the applicator 2 on the receptacle 3. 
The lugs 24 are deformed elastically towards one another by the ring 19 
when it is moved into the locking position, until they engage in the 
grooves 25. 
To withdraw the applicator 2, the user moves the ring 19 towards the back 
of the body 17, thereby releasing the lugs 24 and enabling the applicator 
2 to be separated from the receptacle 3. 
When the applicator 2 is put back into place on the receptacle 3, the user 
moves the ring 19 forwards to lock on the applicator. 
The applicator element 5 is made by a method which is described below with 
reference to FIGS. 4 to 9. 
The method starts with a twisted wire brush type brush shown 
diagrammatically in FIG. 4 and made in conventional manner by placing a 
sheet of bristles 30 between two metal strands 31 and 32 that are then 
twisted together to constitute a core of longitudinal axis Z, the bristles 
being held by being clamped between the turns of the core made in this 
way. 
The two metal strands 31 and 32 may come from a single wire folded into a 
U-shape, with the diameter of the wire lying, for example, in the range 
2/10 mm to 9/10 mm. In a variant, the two strands can come from two 
distinct wires that are twisted together continuously and cut into lengths 
to form a corresponding number of brushes. 
Thereafter, the brush is machined to give it the desired profile. 
In the example under consideration, after machining, the long bristles 30 
for applying the substance extend radially from the core over a sector 
about the axis Z occupying an angular extent a of less than 180.degree., 
as shown in FIGS. 5 and 6. 
The brush can be milled to impart a particular shape to the ends of the 
bristles, e.g. a fork shape, and/or it can optionally be singed to form 
beads at the ends of the bristles. 
At its end remote from the handle element 4, the link element 6 has a 
swelling 33 defining a groove 35 of substantially circular section about a 
longitudinal axis Y and shaped to receive the core of the brush, and 
opening out towards the front of the link element via an opening 34. 
In the example of FIGS. 7 to 9, the swelling 33 has an outside surface of 
substantially circular cross-section. 
The brush 5 is engaged into the groove 35 from one end, in the direction of 
arrow I in FIG. 7. 
After the brush has been put into place in the groove 35, the long bristles 
30 project through the opening 34 as shown in FIG. 8 to constitute a 
surface for applying the substance. The short bristles press against the 
inside surface of the groove 35 to hold the brush therein by friction. 
Depending on the width of the opening 34 of the groove 35, the bristles 30 
projecting from the link member cover a sector of angular extent b that 
may be less than or equal to the above-mentioned angular extent a, 
depending on whether it is desired to provide an applicator element that 
is flat or not so flat or even tapering. 
Naturally, without going beyond the ambit of the present invention, it is 
possible to give various profiles to the brush 5 before mounting it on the 
link element 6. 
By way of non-limiting example, FIG. 10 shows the profile of a brush which 
has been machined in such a manner as to cause the envelope of the 
bristles to present a diabolo-shaped profile along the longitudinal axis 
of the brush. 
It is thus possible to make a brush whose bristles are longer at its ends 
than in its middle portion. 
The brush of FIG. 10 is then subjected to additional machining so as to 
retain long bristles only in a predetermined angular sector about the 
core, like the brush shown in FIG. 5. 
It is also possible to machine the brush so that the envelope of the 
bristles is in the form of a cone whose axis coincides with the core. 
After machining to retain bristles suitable for applying makeup only over a 
determined angular sector about the core, it is possible to obtain a brush 
whose bristles used for applying the substance present a length that 
increases linearly from one side of the link element to the other. 
It will be observed that the brush in FIG. 1 is chamfered at its ends so as 
to facilitate insertion thereof into the groove 35 via one or other of its 
ends. 
It is also possible to machine the bristles 30 occupying a determined 
angular sector about the core in such a manner as to make teeth, for 
example, as shown in FIG. 11. 
Such teeth can be useful for combing the eyelashes while applying mascara. 
FIG. 12 shows a variant embodiment in which the swelling 33 has an outside 
surface of cross-section that is substantially oval. The bristles of the 
brush leave via an opening 38 that is deeper and narrower than in the 
embodiment of FIG. 9 and that has edges which are substantially parallel, 
such that the portions of the bristles which extend beyond the link 
element are substantially parallel. 
FIG. 13 shows another variant in which the opening 39 of the groove is 
oriented in a direction B and an angle c with the longitudinal axis X. 
This inclination of the bristles of the brush can be useful in making the 
applicator easier to handle while applying makeup. 
In general, the edges of the opening of the groove can be divergent and/or 
narrow so that the bundle of bristles projecting beyond the link element 
flares as shown in FIG. 8, is convergent, and/or wider so as to obtain a 
tapering bundle as shown in FIG. 13, or a bundle that is substantially 
parallel as in the embodiment of FIG. 12. 
In addition, by ensuring that the outermost bristles of the bundle 
projecting from the link element are deflected where they connect with the 
core, the free ends of the outermost bristles of the bundle are caused to 
be set back from the free ends of the bristles situated deeper into the 
bundle. 
It is thus possible, starting from a brush whose envelope is cylindrical 
prior to machining, to obtain a bundle whose thickness tapers towards its 
free end, as shown in FIGS. 12 and 13. 
As shown in FIG. 14, the swelling 33 may also have teeth 40 extending from 
one side of the opening 34, for example. 
These teeth 40 can be used, for example, to comb the eyelashes before, 
during, or after mascara has been applied by means of the brush 5. 
The brush may have bristles substantially over the entire width l of the 
swelling 33, or as shown in FIG. 15, it may have bristles only on either 
side of the teeth 40, or beneath them. 
In the above-described embodiments, the core constituted by the twisted 
strands 31 and 32 is rectilinear. 
It does not go beyond the ambit of the present invention to use a brush 
whose core extends along a curved path, e.g. an arc of a circle as shown 
in FIGS. 16 and 17. 
In this embodiment, the link element, referenced 60, has a rounded front 
edge 61 against which a brush 62 is applied. 
The ends of the core 63 of the brush 62 are secured in holes 64 formed in 
the link element 60 at each end of the rounded edge 61. 
Thus, the brush in this case is fixed to the link element via its two ends, 
only. 
By way of non-limiting example only, FIGS. 18 and 19 show variant 
embodiments in which the core of the brush follows a path that is slightly 
convex towards the front (FIG. 18) or slightly concave towards the front 
(FIG. 19), with the apparent width d of the brush in both cases being less 
than the length w of the groove receiving the core of the brush. 
As shown in FIG. 20, the core of the brush may also extend in rectilinear 
manner, but along an axis Y that is at an angle g with the longitudinal 
axis of the applicator, where said angle g lies in the range 0 to 
45.degree., for example. 
Inclining the brush in this way can make the applicator easier to use. 
FIG. 21 shows a variant embodiment of the receptacle. 
In this example, the receptacle has a body 70 with a neck 71 in which an 
endpiece 72 is inserted, the end of the endpiece that is situated inside 
the body 70 being provided with flocked wiping lips 73. 
The applicator, which is represented solely by the applicator element 76 
arid the link element 75, has a narrow portion 77 which, when the 
applicator is in place inside the receptacle, is received between the 
wiper lips 73 so that the bristles of the flocking thereon are not 
significantly compressed by the link element 75. 
The link element 75 also has a succession of sealing lips 78 engaged in the 
neck 71 and pressing against the insert 72 to close the receptacle in 
sealed manner when the applicator is in place. 
The spacing between the wiper lips 73 is selected as a function of the 
thickness of the link element and as a function of the thickness of the 
applicator element so as to be able to wipe the applicator element without 
impeding withdrawal of the applicator. 
By making the applicator element from a brush of the twisted wire brush 
type, the invention benefits from the advantages associated with the way 
in which bristles are implanted in this type of brush. 
In particular, the invention makes it possible to use bristles having a 
wide variety of sections, for example bristles that are made by extrusion 
and that comprise, in cross-section and as shown in FIG. 22, a plurality 
of portions 79 that are interconnected via hinge-forming zones 80 of 
preferential deformation. 
Also, because the bristles of the brush are wiped substantially parallel to 
their axes, it is possible to avoid making the disagreeable popping noise 
that occurs with known applicators that use a bottle-brush type of brush 
with the core extending parallel to the direction in which the applicator 
is withdrawn from the receptacle. 
The invention also makes it possible to use new mascara formulations 
unsuitable for use with conventional applicators because of the stresses 
to which they are subjected during wiping or because of the risk of drops 
of the substance squirting away when the applicator leaves the wiper 
member. 
Naturally, the invention is not limited to the embodiments described above, 
and the characteristics thereof can be combined. 
In particular, the brush used for making the applicator element can have 
bristles of different diameters and/or different sections and/or different 
materials, and bristles that are optionally flocked; the wires 
constituting the core of the brush can be twisted in one direction or the 
other, and optionally there can be more than only two wires. 
The diameter of the bristles can lie, for example, in the range 0.4 mm to 
0.7 mm, and preferably in the range 0.06 mm to 0.4 mm. 
The width of the bundle of bristles for applying the substance, as measured 
perpendicularly to the axis X, is preferably equal to at least one-fourth 
of the width of the eyelid when the applicator is intended for applying 
mascara to the eyelashes. 
The receptacle need not include a wiper member, but could have a block of 
substance that disperses when it comes into contact with the bristles of 
the brush. 
The receptacle can be of various different shapes, as can the handle 
element and the link element, without thereby going beyond the ambit of 
the present invention. 
The device of the invention is particularly suitable for applying mascara 
on the eyelashes, however it would not go beyond the ambit of the present 
invention to use it for applying any other substance, in powder, liquid, 
or semi-liquid form, e.g. to the eyebrows or to the hair, or indeed to the 
nails, to the skin, or to the lips, either for makeup purposes, or in the 
context of cosmetic or pharmaceutical treatment.