Method for producing waves for surfing using staggered wave generators extended along a curved stagger line

A wave pool having a deep end and a shallow end with a plurality of wave generators along the deep end that are extended along a curved stagger line positioned at an oblique angle relative to the moving waves. The wave generators are preferably extended in a substantially staggered manner relative to the travel direction of the waves. A pair of dividing walls is preferably provided in front of each generator, wherein the dividing walls are extended substantially forward with an outward fade angle of no more than about 20 degrees relative to each other. The wave generators are preferably operated in sequence, such that a plurality of wave segments is generated, and such that the wave segments travel forward and then merge together to form a substantially uniform resultant wave which travels forward and then breaks along the shallow end.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to the field of wave pools, and in particular, to a wave pool that comprises using multiple staggered wave generators extended along a curved stagger line in sequence with dividing walls extending forward in front of each wave generator that enable individual wave segments to be formed and merged together to form a resultant wave that breaks along a shoreline.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Becoming a good surfer requires a combination of natural ability, skill and practice and learning to make continual adjustments while standing on a longitudinally oriented surfboard as it skims forward across a wave, such that while the surfer leans and makes adjustments to carve out the proper path, he or she can remain balanced and be propelled forward at just the right velocity and angle. In this respect, surfing requires the surfer to keep the board in a constantly changing equilibrium state, while maintaining constant awareness of his or her position relative to the board, and the board's position relative to the wave, wherein the board and surfer are synchronized together while moving forward in various angles and directions, and performing maneuvers using gravity and the sloped surface of the moving wave.

Because of the need to synchronize these movements carefully, it is important that the wave the board travels on is of sufficient size, shape and quality to enable the surfer to generate enough speed and use the ramps, transitions, sections and hollow tubes that are created on the wave to perform various tricks and maneuvers thereon. Moreover, the wave surface that the board travels on, and cuts across, must be sufficiently smooth and free of turbulence and discontinuities, to allow the surfer to perform the desired maneuvers, wherein, if there are any irregularities in the wave's structure, such as ridges, angles, ripples, vortices, chops, etc., the wave will be difficult to maneuver across and stay balanced on. And based on the size of a standard surfboard, including its overall width, length and thickness, it is critical that the smooth portion of the wave be sufficiently large/wide enough such that the board can be fully supported by the wave structure, wherein, as the board skims and maneuvers across the wave, the surfer is then able to make the necessary adjustments to stay balanced and move forward while performing maneuvers of interest. If there is too much turbulence, for example, or if the smooth portion of the wave is not large/wide enough, the board can be diverted, or misdirected, which can force the surfer to have to make quick compensating adjustments, which can increase the chance that a wipe out can occur.

Due to the size of a standard surfboard, which is typically about 18 to 20 inches (40 cm to 50 cm) wide, and about 2 to 3 inches (5 cm-7 cm) thick, and about 70 to 120 inches (2 to 3 meters) long, as well as its shape, which can have a taper or curve to facilitate carving, it is desirable that the smooth portion of the wave be wide enough to support this width as well as the board's varied movements. For example, if there are large ripples, bumps or chops that are spaced apart every 12 to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm) or so, then, as the board encounters these formations, the surfer will have to use a more conservative (minimal maneuver) stance, with knees bent (to act as shock absorbers), and make quick adjustments, to keep the board on its proper path and avoid a wipeout, as the surfer travels forward. Indeed, one of the significant drawbacks to surfing on a low quality wave is that the board itself can be undesirably diverted, such as, for example, when the tip of the board enters into a chop, in which case, the nose of the board can dive into the water, which, in surf speak, is known as ‘pearling’, and will most often result in a wipe out.

In the past, because there are only a few places in the world where quality surfable waves are created naturally, it has been necessary for surfers to travel great distances to surf. And oftentimes, moments when ideal weather conditions exist can be relatively rare, thereby making it difficult for surfers to pursue their sport and catch a great wave. And given the lack of available resources most surfers have, greater emphasis has been placed on creating man-made waves using wave pools.

Wave pools are man-made bodies of water in which waves are created to simulate waves in an ocean. A wave pool typically has a wave generating device at one end and an artificial sloped “beach” located at the other end, wherein the wave generating device creates disturbances in the water that produce waves such as periodic waves that travel from one end to the other. The floor of the shoreline is preferably sloped upward so that as the waves approach, the floor causes the waves to change shape and “break” onto the beach.

One of the shortcomings of traditional wave pools is that they are typically large and therefore require significant land and therefore are relatively expensive to build. Also, to produce large surfable waves, not only does the pool have to be large, but the wave generators themselves have to be bigger and more powerful to push more water to create the desired surfable waves. Some wave pools have been built with multiple wave generators positioned side by side along the deep end, which are capable of being activated at the same time to produce a single wave that travels from the deep end to the shallow end. Typically, in such case, each wave generator is activated at the same time to simultaneously create a single resultant wave that progresses across the pool and breaks.

In Cohen, U.S. Pat. No. 5,342,145, a wave generating facility having an angled reef for producing plunging type waves is shown, wherein multiple wave generators are provided at an oblique angle along the offshore side of the reef to generate multiple waves in sequence, wherein the waves are said merge together to form a single wave that peels laterally along the reef. In Cohen, the wave generators are staggered and positioned at an oblique angle relative to the front or crest of the moving waves, and likewise, the reef is extended along the same oblique angle, such that, as the waves progress, they will peel and break laterally across the reef.

One deficiency of Cohen, however, is that the wave generators are situated in open water with no provisions being made for how the wave segments will form and merge together to form a single resultant wave. Because the wave generators face the open water, and the multiple wave segments that they produce have to merge together in the open pool, natural forces and disturbances can occur along the convergence zones, including undesirable eddies and flow sheers, which can prohibit the formation of a smooth surfable wave. What Cohen fails to take into account is that when these wave segments converge and disturbances occur, these motions will negatively impact the near-term formation of an ensuing wave, wherein any wave that follows (such as within an approximate 45 second time frame) will encounter considerable instabilities, e.g., ripples, chops and vortices, etc., that are unstable and therefore unsuitable for surfing. Furthermore, the energy consumed by generating such disturbances can reduce the overall size, height and amplitude of the desired waves.

In Leigh, U.S. Pat. No. 3,350,724, a method and apparatus for generating artificial waves in a body of water is shown, wherein multiple wave generators for producing individual waves that merge together are shown. According to Leigh, each wave generator is provided with a pair of angled walls extending forward, to cause the waves to elongate as they travel forward, so that once the waves merge together, they create a single resultant wave with an elongated front that is longer than the width of the wave generators combined. By substantially angling the walls in front of each wave generator, the waves will necessarily spread and elongate as they travel forward, which, according to Leigh, allows for the waves that are created to be substantially elongated, thus making it possible to create longer waves using fewer and shorter wave generators, which according to Leigh, “drastically” reduces the “cost, complexity, and power requirements” of the facility. According to Leigh, the objective achieved is that by angling the walls outward to what appears to be 60 to 70 degrees, fewer wave generators are needed to create the same length of wave along the beach.

One serious disadvantage of Leigh, however, is that because the walls are angled to such a degree, the waves will spread out and elongate unduly, creating a significant lateral or down-the-line velocity component (i.e., in a direction down-the-line along the wave crest) as each wave travels forward, wherein the waves will eventually arc radially outward and collide against each other with force, rather than merge together smoothly to form a uniform resultant wave. That is, as the waves travel forward, not only will they travel in a substantial arc motion, i.e., radially outward, but they will also widen and elongate as they follow along the angle of the walls, wherein a lateral down-line velocity vector will be created such that when adjacent waves converge together, they will inevitably collide against each other with significant force and effect, which can create additional turbulence that can prevent the formation of smooth surfable waves.

Likewise, the elongation of the waves created by Leigh will, by virtue of the principles of energy conservation, cause the waves to drop significantly in height/amplitude as they travel forward. That is, by virtue of the waves elongating, the energy of the wave will have to be spread out along a greater distance, which necessarily decreases the height of the waves. Also, the extra turbulence and disturbance caused by the waves interfering with and colliding against each other will cause the waves to redirect energy, thereby further contributing to a reduction in wave height and amplitude. Accordingly, not only will the height/amplitude of the waves be reduced over time, but additional energy will be required to create the same size resultant wave.

For the above reasons, a need exists to design and build a wave pool using a plurality of wave generators positioned side by side along the deep end thereof to produce wave segments that merge together properly as they travel forward to create a single wave that is sufficiently smooth for surfing, and that overcomes the deficiencies of previous wave pool designs, before they peel and break along the shore.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention represents an improvement over previous wave pool designs comprising multiple wave generators positioned side by side in that the resultant wave formed by merging the wave segments together is a high quality surfable wave with little or no surface instabilities due to improved wave generation and positioning, etc. The wave pool of the present invention preferably has a relatively deep end and a relatively shallow end, wherein the wave generators are located along the deep end and the shoreline is located along the shallow end, wherein an inclined shoaling floor is extended in-between, and in the present invention, the wave generators are preferably oriented along a curved stagger line that is at an oblique angle relative to the lateral down-the-line direction of the wave front, wherein the wave generators are also staggered, and have a pair of dividing walls extended in front of each one, such that, as the wave generators are operated sequentially, one after the other, the wave segments will merge together to form a smoothly shaped resultant wave suitable for surfing. By providing dividing walls in front of each wave generator with a limited outward fade angle between them, the wave segments will be allowed to form properly without losing significant height/amplitude and without unduly elongating, as in Leigh. This also helps reduce the wave height differential between adjacent wave segments, wherein the end result is that they can merge to produce a resultant wave with reduced turbulence and wave energy loss and minimal reduction in wave height/amplitude, etc.

Although different pool configurations are possible, the preferred embodiment has wave generators that are extended along a curved stagger line, with the sloped shoaling floor extended between the deep end and the shallow end, and wherein the breaker line is also extended along a similar curved path, such as substantially parallel to the curved stagger line, wherein the shoaling floor extends between them and helps to cause the waves to break obliquely toward shore, wherein the waves that are formed will break obliquely forward and then peel laterally across the width of the pool.

Preferably, the wave generators are positioned along the curved stagger line, such that each succeeding wave generator in the series is located further downstream than the preceding wave generator, and at a slightly greater angle relative to the immediately preceding wave generator. For example, the second wave generator is preferably located further downstream and at a slightly greater angle than the first wave generator, and the third wave generator is preferably located further downstream and at a slightly greater angle than the second wave generator, wherein the last wave generator in the series will be located further downstream than any previous wave generator in the series and at a greater angle relative to the preceding wave generators.

In this respect, the angle between each wave generator in the series is preferably the same as the outward fade angle of the dividing walls for each wave generator, wherein the orientation and position of the wave generators in this manner helps form the curved stagger line, and contributes to the overall formation and configuration of the waves. The wave generators are preferably positioned along a curved stagger line, rather than a straight stagger angle, as in Applicant's previous application, PCT/SG2011/000176, which is incorporated herein by reference.

With multiple wave generators positioned side by side in this manner, it can be seen that each wave generator can be activated sequentially, one after the other, with a predetermined time interval between them, wherein each wave segment will need time to progress forward and develop properly before merging with adjacent wave segments that will be travelling forward. And because the wave generators are preferably substantially staggered, and positioned along a curved stagger line, it can be seen that in order for the wave segments to merge properly, the activation of each wave generator will have to be timed and take into account the time it takes for each wave segment to travel forward through the dividing walls before merging with an adjacent wave segment at the end thereof, formed by adjacent wave generators in the series.

One preferred aspect of the present invention is the existence of a pair of dividing walls extending forward in front of each wave generator that helps to confine the energy of the wave segments as they travel forward before merging. Each pair of dividing walls is preferably extended forward in the travel direction of the wave segments, such that they help confine the wave segments and the energy thereof, wherein the length, size (height/amplitude) and shape of the wave segments can be substantially maintained as they move forward, while giving them sufficient time to develop before merging with other wave segments in the sequence. This way, when the wave segments do merge, they are preferably travelling in substantially the same direction, at substantially the same speed, and can be substantially identical in size and shape, which can help avoid undesirable disturbances, interferences, and turbulences, such as excess eddies, flow sheers, and cross directional or secondary waves, etc., wherein the size and shape of the resultant wave can thereby be substantially preserved. At the same time, in the preferred embodiment, because each wave generator and its dividing walls are angled slightly relative to each other, a slight fade angle is typically provided between each pair of dividing walls, wherein the angle extending between each pair of dividing walls matches the angle between adjacent wave generators in the series.

Based on the above, the dividing walls preferably create three distinct wave formation zones in front of each wave generator, which help facilitate the formation, merging and transition of the resultant waves. These zones will now be discussed in the order in which they occur as the wave segments travel forward:

First, a Wave Formation Zone is created in between the two dividing walls in front of each wave generator. This zone is characterized by the existence of two dividing walls on either side through which the wave segments travel, wherein the length and energy of the wave segments is substantially confined and preserved. This Zone is designed to help confine the energy of the wave segments as they travel forward so that they can develop into the proper shape before entering into the merging zones.

One important characteristic of the dividing walls is that they are preferably extended substantially close to parallel with each other, or have a limited fade angle between them, wherein in the preferred embodiments, as will be discussed, they will only have an outward fade angle of no more than about 20 degrees, depending upon the overall desired wave size and peel angle to be achieved. By keeping the dividing walls close to parallel, or otherwise limiting the outward fade angle, the wave segments will not elongate substantially or lose a significant amount of energy or size, etc., and by extending the dividing walls within this Zone in this manner, the following advantages can be achieved: 1) the wave segments will not substantially elongate or spread out, which reduces or eliminates the spread speed or down-the-line velocity vector and therefore can reduce excess turbulence as the wave segments merge, and 2) because the wave segments can maintain their length and height/amplitude, etc., and their wave energy is substantially preserved, they can fully develop and remain substantially unaltered in size and shape, as they travel forward through this Zone, which helps to reduce the undesirable disturbances that might occur when the wave segments merge. For purposes of this discussion, spread speed or down-the-line velocity describes a velocity vector in a direction longitudinally down the line of a given wave front, which is essentially perpendicular to the forward movement of the wave.

The second zone encountered by the wave segment as it moves forward is the Partial Wave Merging Zone which is extended just beyond the shorter dividing wall, and is characterized by the existence of one dividing wall on one side but open water on the other side, wherein the wave segments will begin to merge on one side (the side with the shorter dividing wall) with an adjacent wave segment in the series. This Zone preferably extends downstream from the distal end of the short dividing wall (on one side) to the distal end of the long dividing wall (on the opposite side). Even though this Zone only has one dividing wall, the wave segment that travels through this Zone is preferably confined on the opposite “open” side by the presence of an adjacent wave segment traveling in substantially the same direction, at substantially the same speed, and having substantially the same size and shape. That is, the “open” end of the wave segment will effectively merge with an adjacent wave segment formed by a preceding wave generator in the series travelling alongside it, i.e., travelling in substantially the same direction, wherein both wave segments will be substantially confined on both sides (one side by the long dividing wall and the other side by the adjacent wave segment travelling in the same direction), wherein this confinement will help to maintain the height/amplitude and shape and length of the resultant wave. Although there is only one dividing wall that confines the wave segments within this Zone, when timed properly, the two adjacent wave segments that merge together will be able to merge together properly, without producing undesirable disturbances and turbulence, such as excess eddies, flow sheers and cross directional or secondary waves, which can negatively impact the smooth formation and transition of the desired resultant wave.

Third, the next zone encountered by the wave segment is the Full Wave Merging Zone which is located downstream beyond the dividing walls and is characterized by open water on both sides, wherein the other end of the wave segment (which has not merged yet) will merge with an adjacent wave segment formed by a succeeding wave generator in the series travelling along the opposite end, wherein the two wave segments will be travelling in substantially the same direction, at substantially the same speed, and having substantially the same size and shape, as was the case on the other side, to form the smoothly shaped resultant wave. This Zone extends just beyond the distal end of the long dividing wall, and extends forward into the pool, such as into the shoaling zone, toward the shallow end. Because there is no dividing wall on either side, the wave segments that travel through this Zone will be confined on the opposite ends by other wave segments travelling in the same direction—formed by a preceding wave generator on one end and a succeeding wave generator on the opposite end—in the series. And because the preceding and succeeding wave segments also travel in substantially the same direction, at substantially the same speed, with substantially the same size and shape, the wave segments that merge together will help form a consistently shaped resultant uniform wave.

As these wave segments travel forward and merge together, one after another, first on one side, and then, on the opposite side, the size (height/amplitude) and shape of each wave segment preferably remains substantially constant, i.e., unaltered, which allows the merging wave segments to form a substantially smooth resultant wave, wherein undesirable eddies, flow sheers, and cross directional or secondary waves, that can negatively impact the formation of the waves, can be reduced. In the preferred embodiment, the dividing walls in front of each wave generator have an outward fade angle of no more than about 20 degrees, although preferably they have a fade angle of 15 degrees or less, and each wave generator in the series is preferably positioned along a curved stagger line, with the angle between each adjacent wave generator matching the outward fade angle. Stated differently, each succeeding wave generator in the series is preferably positioned at an angle incrementally greater than each preceding wave generator in the series, which is equivalent to the outward fade angle of each pair of dividing walls for each wave generator, which is preferably less than about 20 degrees. This way, the curvature of the curved stagger line becomes a function of the collective angles formed by all of the wave generators positioned next to each other in the series.

For example, if the outward fade angle of the dividing walls for a wave generator in one embodiment is 5 degrees (between each pair of dividing walls), then, each wave generator in the series is preferably positioned at a 5 degree angle relative to each other, i.e., the first wave generator is positioned at a 5 degree angle relative to the second wave generator, and the second wave generator is positioned at a 5 degree angle relative to the third wave generator, wherein the third wave generator will then be positioned at a 10 degree angle relative to the first wave generator, etc. And with each wave generator in the series extended at the same angle relative to each preceding wave generator in the series, it can be seen that the last wave generator in the series will then be positioned at an angle that is equivalent to the collective angles of all the wave generators combined. Thus, if there are eighteen wave generators, and the dividing walls in front of each wave generator has a fade angle of 5 degrees, the last wave generator in the series will be at a 90 degree angle relative to the first wave generator in the series, with each wave generator being positioned at a 5 degree angle relative to each other. Of course, the wave pool can be larger or smaller, in which case, an embodiment can have fewer or more than eighteen wave generators, i.e., a wave pool that is extended around a full circle can have seventy-two wave generators, each at a 5 degree angle relative to each other, extending around the full 360 degrees.

In this respect, it should be noted that virtually any pool configuration is within the contemplation of the present invention. For example, in one embodiment, nine wave generators with dividing walls having a 10 degree fade angle between them can be provided, wherein they can be oriented and positioned at a 10 degree angle relative to each other, and along a curved stagger line that extends about one-fourth of a circle (or 90 degrees). It can also be seen that by using wave generators and dividing walls that have varied fade angles between them, including a series where there is a 5 degree angle adjacent to a 6 degree angle adjacent to a 10 degree angle, virtually any number of wave generators, outward fade angles and configurations can be provided. The key is to keep the fade angles relatively close to parallel to one another or otherwise limited so as to provide the benefits described herein.

Regardless of the number of wave generators used, and the curvature of the stagger line, etc., the opposing shallow end of the wave pool is preferably extended along a similar curve, such that as the wave segments travel forward and merge together, the resultant wave will travel forward and begin breaking along a substantially curved break line, wherein the waves will also break along a similarly curved shoreline, wherein the distance that the waves have to travel downstream from the wave generators to the beach, i.e., before they break onto the shore, is preferably substantially constant, although not necessarily so, such that the breaking of the waves will occur at about the same distance downstream and along substantially the same line.

To the extent the peel angle helps enable the waves to break properly, it should be noted that the curvature of the break line can be varied, i.e., it doesn't have to be substantially parallel to the curved stagger line, such that the waves will break in the desired manner along the shoreline. The radiuses of the various curvatures can also be varied wherein the radius of the curved stagger line can be a function of the stagger distance, the width of the wave generator, and the outward fade angle of the dividing walls, etc., wherein the curvature of the break line and shoreline don't necessarily have to equal the curvature of the curved stagger line.

While various factors are involved in deciding how many wave generators to use, and how large or how small the wave pool should be, and what portion of a circle the curve should consist of, etc., several factors are preferably considered in determining the preferred outward fade angle of the dividing walls, which should then be factored into determining the preferred angle between the adjacent wave generators in the pool. As was discussed in Applicants' previous application, the dividing walls will perform best when they are substantially parallel to each other, which helps to substantially confine the energy of the wave segments as they progress forward, but given the curvature of the stagger line, the two dividing walls in this case are necessarily off parallel to some degree, and have a predetermined amount of outward fade angle between them, depending on a number of factors, as will be discussed, which can help determine the angle that exists between adjacent wave generators in the series and therefore dictate the overall configuration and size of the wave pool, etc.

In this respect, the following factors are preferably considered in determining the preferred outward fade angle for any given embodiment:

First, any degree of outward fade angle will cause the wave segments to elongate to some degree as they progress forward, wherein, by elongating the wave segments, or allowing them to spread out, a lateral down-the-line velocity vector can be introduced into the wave segments. And, because of the principle of energy conservation, when a wave segment is allowed to elongate or spread out, the wave segment's size (height/amplitude) as it travels forward will necessarily decrease, and because the wave generators are staggered and operated sequentially, one after the other, by the time any two adjacent wave segments merge together, one wave segment will have traveled a greater distance than the adjacent wave segment, which means that along the convergence line, there can be a significant height differential between them, which can cause undesirable disturbances and turbulences to occur, such as excess eddies and flow sheers. Thus, at some point, an increased outward fade angle and/or greater stagger distance will create secondary wave phenomenon that will interfere with the primary wave pattern and the formation of the resultant wave.

Stated differently, the elongation of the wave segments can undesirably cause an energy flux to occur, wherein, due to the fade angle of the caisson walls, at the point where the wave segments merge, each wave segment in the series will end up being wider than the preceding wave segment in the series, etc., and because the energy per unit width along the length of the wave segment is related to the square of the wave height, this means that the wave segment that is created earliest, that travels the furthest, will be lower in height than the next succeeding wave segment in the series, etc. Thus, the merging wave segments will have a wave height differential that is dependent on the outward fade angle and stagger distance, and consequently, if the stagger distance is too great and/or the outward fade angle is too high, the wave height differential along the convergence line will increase, resulting in irregularities and secondary adverse wave effects. For these reasons, the present invention contemplates that the above factors be taken into account when designing a wave pool having a specified outward fade angle, and preferably, the outward fade angle between them should be limited to about 5 to 10 degrees and certainly no more than 20 degrees. Another reason to limit the fade angle has to do with the overall configuration of the wave pool and how tight the radius of the curved stagger line should be, which is affected by the stagger distance, and other curves based on the fade angle.

Another improved aspect of the present invention is that because the wave generators are positioned along a curved stagger line, rather than a straight angle, the adjacent wave generators will also be positioned and oriented at an angle relative to each other, such that each successive wave generator in the series will be at a progressively greater angle relative to the first wave generator. And, because the dividing walls between adjacent wave generators have substantially parallel surfaces on opposing sides, and the wave segment created by each wave generator will travel in a direction that is perpendicular to the front of each wave generator, this allows the ends of the wave segments that travel forward and merge together along the convergence line to travel substantially parallel to each other, i.e., in substantially the same direction, such that when they do merge, the confluence created by the wave segments merging together will be substantially reduced.

This also reduces the likelihood of there being a significant collision between adjacent wave segments that can negatively impact the formation of the resultant wave, insofar as, with an increased down-the-line velocity, if the ends of the adjacent wave segments are travelling in substantially the same direction, i.e., parallel to each other, along the convergence line, there will be less impact between them as they merge. This helps to avoid the situation that occurred in Leigh, which is that, when the fade angle was too high, an undesirable condition was created, insofar as when the wave segments converged, they tended to collide against each other, wherein cross directional or secondary waves could interfere with the formation of the resultant wave and flow sheers and eddies contributed to misshaping the desired surface continuity of the primary surfing wave, thereby creating undesirable disturbances and turbulences which can cause bumps, chops, perturbations, eddies and flow sheers to occur, which can negatively impact the formation and transition of the desired wave.

Another aspect of the invention relates to placing a wave dampening system such as disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 6,460,201 or 8,561,221, which are incorporated herein by reference, which can be provided along the shallow end to reduce undesirable wave effects such as rip currents and reverse flows, etc., which can adversely affect the breaking of the waves along the shoreline. A standard shoreline that has a floor that progresses upward at an incline from the deep end to the shallow end, or other sloped beach can be provided as well.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

FIG. 1is a plan view of an embodiment of wave pool1having a plurality of wave generators3extended along an obliquely oriented curved stagger line6, along a relatively deep end5, with a sloped shoaling floor21, extended along a similarly curved and oriented breaker line9, which extends along an opposing shoreline7on shallow end11. In this embodiment, a series of wave generators3(extended along curved stagger line6) and sloped shoaling floor21(extended along break line9) are preferably extended substantially along the same arc or substantially parallel to each other, while at the same time, at a curved oblique angle relative to the lateral down-the-line front or crest of waves13(which travel in direction10). Note: This view shows what may at first appear to be multiple resultant waves13formed one after another, but the waves13shown inFIG. 1are intended to show the progress that one resultant wave13can make incrementally over time as it progresses across pool1, i.e., it is not intended to show that that many waves, one after another, should be produced at once. Side walls2,4are preferably extended on either side to form the shape of pool1from above.

Multiple wave generators3are preferably situated along curved stagger line6at an oblique angle relative to the front or crest of waves13. Each wave generator3is preferably angled relative to each other, and in a staggered or offset manner, relative to the travel direction10of waves13, as shown inFIG. 1. Also, each wave generator3is preferably housed within a substantially rectangular caisson17, which is preferably staggered or offset relative to each other and positioned along curved stagger line6, as shown. For example, first wave generator3ais preferably housed in first caisson17a, located adjacent side wall2, and second wave generator3bis preferably housed within second caisson17b, which is preferably staggered forward and located downstream relative to first wave generator3a. Likewise, third wave generator3c, which is housed within third caisson17c, is preferably staggered forward and located further downstream relative to second wave generator3b, wherein the last wave generator in the series, i.e.,3s, located adjacent to side wall4, is housed within caisson17s, and is preferably staggered forward and located further downstream than any other wave generator in the series. The embodiment shown has nineteen (19) wave generators3extending across wave pool1which are housed in nineteen (19) caissons17, each angled at about five (5) degrees relative to each other, which is substantially equivalent to the outward fade angle of each pair of dividing walls20,22of each wave generator.

The angle15at which curved stagger line6extends relative to the front or crest of wave13, as well as front wall26of each wave generator3, is referred to as the “stagger angle,” which represents the degree to which the wave generators3are offset or staggered relative to each other in travel direction10. And, the distance that front wall26of each caisson17is located relative to the front wall26of each preceding/succeeding caisson17in the series, i.e., in direction10, is referred to as the “stagger distance,” which is shown as distance69inFIG. 4. Stagger distance69is essentially the distance that each wave segment must travel from front wall26of one wave generator (after it is created) before it reaches the next front wall26of the succeeding wave generator in the series.

As shown inFIG. 4, each caisson,17a,17b,17c,17d, is preferably in substantially the shape of a rectangle from above, including front wall26, a pair of side walls18,19(extended at a slight angle relative to each other), and a back wall28, and preferably, in front of each caisson17is a pair of dividing walls20,22, extended substantially longitudinally forward in direction10(also at a slight angle relative to each other). Preferably, dividing walls20,22are extended substantially close to parallel to each other, or with an outward fade angle of up to 20 degrees, depending on a number of parameters, as will be discussed. Each wave generator3of the embodiment shown preferably has dividing walls20,22with a fade angle of about five (5) degrees relative to each other. This way, the energy of the wave segments formed by each wave generator3can be substantially confined and retained within space30that extends in front of each wave generator3, i.e., between dividing walls20,22, which represents the Wave Formation Zone. Space30, in such case, is preferably confined on both sides, as well as along the bottom and back, such that the energy released by wave generator3will remain substantially confined and preserved as the wave segments8a,8b,8c, created by wave generators3travel forward between the dividing walls20,22.

As shown inFIG. 1, peel angle14which extends between the front or crest of each wave13and break line9is the angle at which waves13will break and peel across break line9. And, in the embodiment ofFIG. 1, peel angle14is about 45 degrees relative to the front of each wave, although it can be within a range of about 30 to 70 degrees, and preferably, within the range of about 40 to 60 degrees, relative to waves13. Also, peel angle14is preferably the same angle as stagger angle15, although not necessarily so, wherein both are preferably extended at about 45 degrees relative to the front or crest of waves13, although in other embodiments, the angle can be greater or smaller—seeFIGS. 5, 6, 7 and 8—or varied.

Curved stagger line6preferably extends along an arcuate path, such as along a segment of a circle along deep end5, as shown inFIG. 1, wherein its radius can be constant, or varied, depending on the desired configuration of pool1and the desired type of wave effects, etc., to be produced. Likewise, breaker line9and shoreline7preferably extend along a similar or parallel arcuate path, which can match the curvature of stagger line6, such that the lines extend substantially parallel to each other. For example, breaker line9and shoreline7can be positioned and curved relative to curved stagger line6such that all three curves have concentric radiuses based on a common center point of a circle, as shown in the embodiment ofFIG. 7. The relationship between the three lines preferably enables waves13to break along break line9at substantially the same distance downstream from wave generators3. At the same time, the curvature and radiuses of the three lines can be modified to accommodate the shaping and peeling of the breaking waves13such that they are suitable for surfing, i.e., they don't necessarily have to be extended parallel to each other.

Whether a resultant wave13produced by wave pool1is suitable for surfing largely depends on the value of peel angle14designated as α. And, in this respect, it should be noted that the peel angle should be sufficiently large enough for the lateral velocity of the breaking point of the waves13(extending longitudinally along the length thereof) to be suitable for the skill level of the surfer, as well as the height of the resultant wave13formed within pool1. In this respect, it should be noted that the lateral velocity vector, Vs, is preferably equal to the wave celerity vector, c, divided by the sine of the peel angle α. When the peel angle is too small, the lateral down-the-line velocity of the breaking waves13becomes too fast and therefore the waves can become too difficult to surf on. Whether a particular surfer can handle a particular wave having a particular lateral velocity depends largely on his or her skill level, but also on the height H of wave13, etc. That is, the higher the wave13, the smaller the allowable peel angle can be, relative to a fixed skill level, whereas, the greater the lateral down-the-line velocity (resulting from a smaller peel angle), the greater the skill level required.

The table below shows various surfer skill levels (1 being a beginner and 10 being beyond advanced) as a function of the peel angle and wave height H. Note that a peel angle of 90 degrees is of limited use since there is no progressive angle or slope that causes the waves to progressively break and therefore that value is strictly theoretical. Also note that the practical maximum peel angle that produces a meaningful breaking wave for surfing is about 70 degrees. Likewise, the minimum peel angle that produces a breaking wave for surfing is about 30 degrees, insofar as any smaller peel angle will cause the waves to break too quickly and suddenly, thereby not giving the surfer sufficient time to maneuver and ride the wave. Note the descriptions of the ratings contained in the chart below are independent of actual surf break quality or the degree of difficulty of the waves. The chart is taken from Hutt et al. 2001.

PeelAngleMin/Max WaveRatingDescription of RatingLimit (deg)Height (m)1Beginner surfers not yet able to ride the900.70/1.00face of a wave and simply move forward ona whitewater bore as the wave advances.2Learner surfers able to successfully ride700.65/1.50laterally along the crest of a progressivelybreaking wave.3Surfers that have developed the skill to600.60/2.50generate speed by ‘pumping’ on the face ofthe wave.4Surfers beginning to initiate and execute550.55/4.00standard surfing maneuvers on occasion.5Surfers able to execute standard500.50/>4.00maneuvers consecutively on a single wave.6Surfers able to execute standard400.45/>4.00maneuvers consecutively. Executesadvanced maneuvers on occasion.7Top amateur surfers able to consecutively290.40/>4.00execute advanced maneuvers.8Professional surfers able to consecutively270.35/>4.00execute advanced maneuvers.9Top professional surfers able toNot reach0.30/>4.00consecutively execute advancedmaneuvers.10Surfers in the futureNot reach0.3/>4.00

Thus, it can be seen that the greater the peel angle, the easier it is for a surfer to ride the waves, and the lower the peel angle, the more difficult it would be. It can also be seen that the higher the peel angle, the greater the distance the waves will have to travel along sloped shoaling floor21, and therefore, the longer the surfers may be able to ride the waves. On the other hand, if the peel angle is too high, such as greater than 70 degrees, the waves are likely to break too slowly, or not break at all, making it difficult for surfing maneuvers to be performed. At the same time, it can be seen that with a smaller peel angle, the more compressed the sloped shoaling floor21will be (distance-wise), and therefore, the faster the waves13will break along the lateral down-the-line direction, wherein, if the peel angle is too small, i.e., less than 30 degrees, the waves will break too quickly, thereby reducing the likelihood that a surfer would be able to travel fast enough to maneuver on the waves properly. Preferably, as waves13are formed by wave generators3and approach shoreline7in travel direction10, and pass over break line9, they will begin to break forward and peel laterally, wherein the momentum of the waves will cause them to spill forward and break across pool1, i.e., progressively in a direction from side wall2to side wall4.

While the peel angle14preferably determines the angle at which waves13will break relative to sloped shoaling floor21, the stagger angle15preferably determines the angle at which wave generators3are oriented and positioned relative to the front or crest of waves13, or the direction that is normal to travel direction10at any given point along curved stagger line6. And because each wave generator3is preferably extended forward downstream relative to each other, by virtue of the stagger distance, at an oblique angle relative to the front or crest of waves13, each wave generator, i.e.,3a,3b,3c, etc., is preferably operated sequentially, one after the other, to form individual wave segments8a,8b,8c, one after the other, that can merge together to form resultant wave13that progressively travels in direction10, which, due to curved stagger line6, essentially extends along a substantially arcuate path over time, as shown inFIG. 1. Note that because the wave generators are positioned along a curved stagger line6, the travel direction10of each wave segment created by each wave generator is dependent on the angle at which that wave generator is oriented and positioned relative to each other, wherein, each wave segment will begin travelling in a direction that is substantially perpendicular to the front wall26of the wave generator3that creates it, but as the resultant wave13is formed and generated, it will eventually travel along an arcuate path due to the fact that the wave generators3are extended along a curved stagger line6and are extended at a slight angle relative to each other in a progressive manner from one side to the other.

Each wave generator3is preferably operated in sequence with a predetermined time elapsing between them, wherein the interval that exists between each one is preferably equivalent to the time it takes one wave segment to travel from front wall26of one caisson17to the front wall26of the succeeding caisson17. For example as shown inFIG. 4, if it takes 1 second for a wave segment to travel that distance69, i.e., the “stagger distance,” then, the preferred interval between the activation of adjacent wave generators3should also be 1 second. This helps to ensure that each wave segment formed by each wave generator in succession will merge at the appropriate time, and in the appropriate manner, to form a substantially smooth resultant wave13that travels forward and across wave pool1in direction10, which, again, extends along an arcuate path over time. The timing can be carried out by a computer that fires each succeeding caisson in sequence at the appropriate time.

As for the timing and frequency of the resultant waves13, they can be determined by the amount of time that should elapse between each successive cycle of activations. That is, after the wave generators3are activated in sequence from one end to the other, then, the cycle can be repeated by activating the same series of wave generators, i.e., from the first wave generator to the last wave generator in the series, for the duration of a given wave frequency. For example, multiple wave generators can be activated one by one in sequence during a time interval of 10 seconds, which forms one cycle, and that cycle can be repeated after allowing sufficient time to charge the wave generators3, as will be discussed, to complete the cycle before the next cycle begins. The range of cycles can be anywhere from about 10 to 90 seconds or more. This also gives sufficient time for surfers to get into position between waves.

FIG. 2shows the general cross sectional configuration of pool1along a line parallel to the travel direction10of waves13wherein wave generators3are shown extended substantially along deep end5, i.e., on the left hand side, and shoreline7is extended along shallow end11, i.e., on the right hand side. Extended between deep end5and shallow end11is preferably a sloped floor21that extends upward along the shoaling section53followed downstream by break line9, and a shoreline7that is preferably integrated with a wave dampening system23, like the one shown in U.S. Pat. Nos. 6,460,201 or 8,561,221, which are incorporated herein by reference. It should be noted that wave dampening system23can be omitted and a sloped shoreline7of any shape, size or slope can be provided similar to any sloped beach or configuration. This view generally shows waves13emanating from wave generators3traveling substantially from deep end5to shallow end11, i.e., from left to right, wherein the slope of floor21along the wave break zone is preferably between 2% and 22% (depending on the preferred Iribarren number along the wave break zone). The minimum distance of shoaling section53from front wall26of caisson17to break line9and from break line9to end wall61(dampening area) is normally wave size (height/amplitude) dependent. Wave pool1can be constructed using conventional materials such as concrete with reinforcing bars, etc.

Each wave generator3is preferably housed within caisson17which preferably comprises an inverted (up-side-down) watertight column or compartment25capable of being filled with air and/or water. Preferably, each caisson17has a top wall12, side walls18,19, back wall28, bottom wall46, and front wall26, wherein below front wall26is preferably a caisson opening29of a predetermined height which allows water and wave energy to pass forward into pool1. While other types of wave generators, such as those mechanically or hydraulically operated, including those shown inFIGS. 3a, 3band 3c, can be used and are contemplated by the present invention, the preferred wave generator is pneumatically operated as shown.

Preferably, each caisson17has a compressed air chamber35immediately behind it, as shown inFIG. 2, in which compressed air can be stored, wherein the compressed air can be released into compartment25at the appropriate time through valve opening33. The air fed into and out of compartment25can be stored within chamber35, wherein during the charging phase, air can be drawn out of compartment25and into chamber35, using a pump (not shown), which can cause the water level within caisson17to rise (as back pressure within compartment25causes water to be drawn from pool1and into compartment25through caisson opening29). In such case, the air drawn out of compartment25is preferably compressed into chamber35, where the compressed air can then be stored until it is ready to be released during the discharge phase. Then, at the appropriate time, i.e., when wave generator3is ready to be activated, the compressed air within chamber35is released and/or pumped back into compartment25, through valve opening33, which causes water column45inside compartment25to suddenly drop down, which then forces water within compartment25forward through opening29, thereby forming wave motions in front of wave generator3which progress to form wave segment8which merges with other wave segments in the series to form a resultant wave13that travels forward through pool1.

During the charging phase, the cavity inside compartment25is substantially airtight, such that when air within compartment25is drawn out, the water level within compartment25rises, wherein due to back pressure, water can be sucked in from pool1through caisson opening29, and into compartment25. At this point, the caisson freeboard43, as shown inFIG. 2, within compartment25, can be reduced and substantially eliminated, i.e., virtually all of the air within compartment25can be withdrawn. By withdrawing air from the top of compartment25through valve opening33, which is preferably located near the top, the water level within compartment25will naturally rise until such time that compartment25is substantially filled with water. This also increases the caisson water depth and pressure head within compartment25, wherein, by raising the water level within compartment25, an increased pressure head is created which can be released to force water forward through caisson opening29.

The forward momentum generated by caisson17can be created by gravity alone, or by releasing the compressed air from chamber35into compartment25, or with an ancillary pump, etc., which provides additional energy to create larger waves. Back wall28of caisson17can be provided with a rounded bottom corner41, as shown inFIG. 2, to facilitate the movement of water forward through opening29. This helps create wave motions ahead of front wall26, which help create wave segments8that travel forward in between dividing walls20,22, which then progress forward to merge with other wave segments formed by adjacent wave generators in the series, which then form a resultant wave13that travels forward through pool1.

Virtually any type of wave generator3can be used in connection with the present invention including the three types of wave generators shown inFIGS. 3a, 3band 3c. One is designed to produce non-periodic surge waves and the other two are designed to produce oscillatory waves.

FIG. 3ashows an oscillatory pneumatic wave generator203which has a concrete caisson207, with a caisson opening229extended below a front wall226, wherein a blower201is provided behind caisson207which can inject air into compartment225. By forcing air into compartment225, the water level within compartment225can be forced to drop, wherein the water column245within compartment225can be forced forward through the point of least resistance, which is caisson opening229. This causes water to be forced forward into pool200, which helps to create wave formation213.

A valve221is preferably provided near the top of compartment225, within back wall228, through which air can pass from blower201into compartment225. Accordingly, to discharge air, valve221is preferably opened, and blower201is activated to pressurize air forward through valve221. When the air has been discharged into compartment225, and the water column therein pushed forward through opening229, wave generator203can then be recharged again by allowing air within compartment225to be discharged into the atmosphere, through a second opening210, at or near top wall212of caisson207, wherein by doing so, the water level within compartment225will naturally rise again, due to the restoring force of gravity, wherein the water level will eventually reach an equilibrium point relative to the water level220in pool200. By doing so, a column of water245is then created within compartment225which, during the discharge phase, can be forced downward and forward again, through opening229, to create additional wave motions in pool1.

FIG. 3bshows a surge wave generator231which has a large elevated water storage tank233in which water from pool200can be stored and released at the appropriate time. A gate250is preferably provided near the bottom239of tank233which can be used to open and close tank opening237. With gate250closed, pump232is used to fill tank233with water, wherein water from pool200can be used to increase the water level within tank233, i.e., above the water level220in pool200, to form a water column238having a relatively high pressure head. This helps to create a relatively high water column238as well as a pressure head within tank233, which, when released, i.e., by opening gate250, forces water column238within tank233down and forward through opening237, thereby creating a bore or surge wave213.

The amount of water released through opening237and the “power” (resulting from the static water level in tank233), combined with the shape of step242that extends in front of wave generator231, can help define the initial wave height and wave shape. Due to the time it takes for water to refill tank233and the relatively large gate250, these wave shapes are often hard to control and the waves are essentially non-periodic. A disadvantage of this type of wave generator for commercial wave/surf pool applications is that the mechanical parts are mostly situated in water and over time they can corrode and rust, such that mechanical parts may need to be repaired or serviced.

FIG. 3cshows an oscillatory mechanical wave generator251which has a housing area252with a pivoting flap253hinged on the pool floor254which can be used to push water forward to create wave formations213in pool200. Flap253is preferably hinged and can swing back and forth by means of a hydraulic actuator256or other mechanical device situated on or near back wall255and adapted to create periodic movements within wave pool200. The periodic movement of flap253results in periodic (sine shape) waves wherein the initial depth of pool200and the amount of swing, together with the swing period, can determine the wave height and wave shape. A disadvantage of this type of wave generator for commercial wave/surf pools is that mechanical parts are situated in water and therefore they tend to need repair or service periodically.

By using wave generators3(virtually any type such as those discussed above), wave segment8, as shown inFIG. 2, is preferably created in front of each caisson17, and then allowed to merge with other wave segments travelling in substantially the same direction beyond dividing wall20, and then, as the resultant wave13forms and travels forward, the slope of floor21helps to cause the resultant waves to begin breaking, such as along break line9. Preferably, floor21is extended along a substantially constant slope, although not necessarily so, and extends upward along an incline from somewhere in front of front wall26to the wave dampening area23, although, in this respect, the slope can be varied depending on the type of wave formation desired, i.e., it can extend substantially horizontally within the wave merging zones and then it can rise to an incline if desired, for example. In any event, the depth of floor46within the wave merging zones is preferably sufficient to ensure that wave segments8do not begin breaking until resultant wave13forms and travels forward toward break line9, wherein the inclined floor preferably reaches the break depth to cause the waves13to begin to break.

As shown inFIG. 2, wave dampening area23is preferably extended between break line9and far wall61of pool1along shoreline7, and preferably comprises a perforated false floor37, which is extended over a relatively deep floor area38, which helps facilitate the absorption of wave energy and thereby reduces the energy of the waves, as well as the rip currents and reverse flows that can otherwise occur along shoreline7. Different versions of wave dampening systems can be used, including those described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 6,460,201 and 8,561,221, which are incorporated herein by reference. In the latter, the porosity of floor37helps determine the dampening rate thereof, i.e., the ability of floor37to absorb energy and reduce the rebounding effects occurring within pool1. And by dampening waves13, and reducing the ancillary wave effects, it becomes possible to increase the frequency of wave production, thereby increasing throughput and facility efficiency, etc.

FIG. 2shows some key dimensions in relation to pool1. For example, it can be seen that the following are shown: The caisson length41is generally the distance that extends from back wall28to front wall26within each caisson17. The caisson freeboard43is the vertical distance that extends between the top of water column45within compartment25and the underside of top wall12. The caisson opening29is the opening in front of each caisson17which has a vertical distance between the bottom of front wall26and bottom floor46. Shoaling section53has a length51which is the distance that extends from front wall26of caisson17to break line9, which can vary along the width of caisson17, since wave direction10is oblique relative to break line9, and break line9is also curved. Floor21which forms shoaling section53is shown having a constant slope, which extends upward from caisson17to break line9, wherein in the preferred embodiment, the slope can range from 2 to 22 degrees, although not necessarily so, i.e., the floor21can also have a varied slope such as within substantially the same range from one end to the other, or a substantially horizontal floor extended within the wave merging zones before sloping upward.

The height of side walls2,4, relative to the standing mean water level in pool1, is shown as distance42inFIG. 2, which is preferably higher than the highest possible wave that can be created within pool1. Distance42preferably ranges from between about 2 feet to 10 feet or more to ensure that any wave formed within pool1can be maintained by walls2,4. Dividing walls20,22are also preferably about the same height to ensure that wave segments8are properly maintained, although not necessarily so. It should be noted that dividing walls20,22, and walls2,4, to the extent applicable, help to allow the wave segments to develop properly and consistently as they travel forward before merging with other wave segments downstream. This way, when the wave segments merge, the likelihood of forming undesirable motions, including unwanted eddies and flow sheers, within the merging zones that can inhibit the proper formation of a smooth resultant wave can be reduced. Finally, dampening distance65is the distance that extends between break line9and back wall61.

InFIG. 4, the front width77of caisson17is shown to be the distance that extends between dividing walls20,22in front of each wave generator3, along front wall26, whereas, back width67is shown to be the distance that extends between walls18,19along back wall28of each caisson17. The stagger width68(not shown) is substantially equal to width77, but extends between the center lines of each caisson17, i.e., from center to center between walls18,19. In this respect, it should be noted that the stagger width68is preferably about twice the length of a surfboard, i.e., from about 2.5 to 5 meters wide, which is based more on practical fabrication considerations than factors necessary to form a smooth wave.

A pair of dividing walls20,22is preferably extended forward in front of each wave generator3in travel direction10and at a predetermined outward fade angle78, as shown inFIG. 5, which is preferably between 0 and 20 degrees. Short dividing wall20(shown inFIG. 4extending forward on the left hand side of each wave generator3) preferably extends a distance59in front of front wall26of wave generator3to distal end49, and long dividing wall22(shown extending forward on the right hand side of each wave generator3) preferably extends a distance70in front of front wall26to distal end49. As can be seen, for each caisson17, short dividing wall20is preferably extended forward as an extension of wall18, and long dividing wall22is preferably extended forward as an extension of wall19. Also, both short wall20and the downstream portion of long dividing wall22of adjacent wave generators are preferably constructed from the same wall, i.e., they are formed by the opposing surfaces of the same wall. Moreover, the upstream portion of long dividing wall22is preferably constructed from the same wall18of the adjacent caisson17in the series. For example, in front of wave generator3bofFIG. 4, long dividing wall22(on the right side) is constructed from the same wall18as wave generator3cupstream, and from the same wall as short dividing wall20of the same wave generator3cdownstream. Also, short dividing wall20(on the left side) of wave generator3bis constructed from the same long dividing wall22of preceding wave generator3a.

Each dividing wall20,22is preferably formed of concrete or other suitable material with a substantially constant thickness such that the opposing surfaces of each dividing wall are substantially parallel to each other. The distal end49of each dividing wall is preferably tapered to form a relative thin tip, flange or edge. A separate sheath, such as made of steel or fiberglass, etc., can be extended forward at distal end49of dividing walls20,22, to form the tip to facilitate smooth merging of the wave segments.

The caisson offset or stagger distance69, as shown inFIG. 4, is the downstream distance that extends from front wall26of one caisson, such as17b, to the front wall26of the succeeding caisson, such as17c, in the series, which is in travel direction10of each wave segment, which is also the distance that each wave segment must travel before the next adjacent wave generator is activated in sequence. The stagger angle15, shown inFIG. 1, can vary from one embodiment to the next, but preferably, it is equal to or close to the peel angle14. The stagger angle15can be substantially constant across the width of pool1, as shown inFIG. 1, but it can also vary over the width of pool1. In general, the maximum stagger efficiency is achieved when the stagger angle is equal to the peel angle, although, for aesthetic design purposes, or where alteration of shoaling distance51is desired (e.g., to save on construction costs, or satisfy local site conditions, or accommodate a breaking wave in accordance with the skill of a surfer), variability in the peel angle14and/or stagger angle15is permitted.

At the same time, any changes to stagger angle15should be constrained by the following: (1) if the stagger angle exceeds the peel angle, then, at some point, the resultant waves may break too quickly, i.e., the minimum shoaling distance51to wave break distance may become too small, which can make surfing more difficult; and (2) if the stagger angle is less than the peel angle, then, at some point, the resultant wave may take too long to break, wherein the shoaling distance51for waves13may be too long, which can increase the overall size and cost of the pool and potentially jeopardize its economic viability.

FIG. 4shows each caisson17a,17b,17c,17d, etc., in the series having two dividing walls20,22extending forward in front of each wave generator,3a,3b,3c,3d, wherein the distal end49of short dividing wall20is preferably shorter (in the travel direction10) than the distal end49of long dividing wall22, which is a function of the stagger distance69and stagger angle15, i.e., the greater the stagger angle15, the greater the stagger distance69. Preferably, when stagger angle15is about 45 degrees, the stagger width68will be substantially equal to the stagger distance69, but not necessarily so, given that stagger line6is curved. For example, when each caisson17is 4.0 meters wide, then, the preferred stagger distance69is also about 4.0 meters, although this doesn't take into account the curve of stagger line6as shown inFIG. 1. Note that the embodiment shown inFIG. 4has a stagger angle15that is slightly greater than 45 degrees, i.e., it is more like 50 or 55 degrees, so stagger distance69is greater than stagger width68, whereas, the embodiment shown inFIG. 1shows stagger distance69is substantially the same as stagger width68.

Also, the forward extension of dividing walls20,22, i.e., distances59and70, can be determined based on the desired distance needed to ensure that wave segments8a,8b,8care allowed to form properly before merging with other wave segments. In many cases, short dividing wall20can be terminated about half the distance that long dividing wall22extends forward in front of front wall26, although not necessarily so, i.e., the embodiment shown inFIG. 4shows the short dividing wall20extending less than half that distance in front of wall26. The actual distance preferably takes into account the stagger angle15and stagger distance69, as well as the height of the wave segment, and the depth of the deep end5of pool1, as these dimensions will determine how fast the wave segments will travel forward, and therefore, how far forward dividing walls20,22should extend relative to front wall26to enable the wave segments to form properly. The given dimensions and angles are for exemplary purposes only; it should be understood that other distances and angles can be used without departing from the intent and purpose of the present invention.

Multiple wave merging zones are preferably created in front of each wave generator3, between and in front of dividing walls20,22. For example, as shown inFIG. 4, a Wave Formation Zone30is formed directly in front of each wave generator3, between dividing walls20,22, and ending along dashed line56, and then, just beyond Zone30, a Partial Wave Merging Zone52is created, extending from dashed line56to dashed line58, and then, just beyond Zone52, a Full Wave Merging Zone54is created, extending from dashed line58in direction10. Each Zone,30,52and54, is preferably defined along the sides (in direction10) by either the dividing walls, or the convergence line60, as will be discussed. These Zones are defined in each instance by the distance the wave segments will travel, and how far dividing walls20,22extend downstream. For example, Wave Formation Zone30preferably extends from front wall26to distal end49of short dividing wall20, whereas, Partial Wave Merging Zone52preferably extends from distal end49of short dividing wall20to distal end49of long dividing wall22, ending along dashed line58. Then, Full Wave Merging Zone54extends forward from distal end49of long dividing wall22, along dashed line58, and forward into pool1(beyond dashed line58).

Within first Wave Formation Zone30, because dividing walls20,22are extended substantially forward on either side, at only a slight outward fade angle between them, such as less than 20 degrees, as the wave segments8atravel forward, the length and energy of the wave segments is substantially confined on both sides (as well as along the bottom and back), to prevent the wave segments from significantly elongating or spreading out in the lateral down-the-line direction. By confining the wave segments in this manner, the energy of the wave segments is conserved, such that their height/amplitude and shape are substantially maintained, i.e., they stay about the same size and shape as they travel forward, although they will drop down in height gradually as they elongate over time. Thus, it can be seen that Zone30helps to preserve the energy of the wave segments8aso that they can develop properly and fully between dividing walls20,22and will not unduly elongate or lose significant energy or significantly shrink in height/amplitude or change in shape before merging with other wave segments downstream.

Ideally, dividing walls20,22are extended substantially parallel to each other, but due to the curve of curved stagger line6, they are necessarily “off parallel” to some degree, i.e., by up to about 20 degrees, which represents the preferred maximum outward fade angle78between them, as shown inFIG. 5. This outward fade angle78of dividing walls20,22also enables wave generators3to be oriented and positioned at an angle relative to each other, i.e., at the same angle78shown inFIG. 5, such that they are progressively angled from one end of the pool to the other, i.e., across the width of pool1. This enables wave segments8that travel forward in direction10to travel in a direction that is substantially parallel to each other along the convergence line60, as shown inFIG. 4.

By limiting the outward fade angle between the dividing walls, the following advantages can be achieved: 1) a free surface transition zone is created in front of each wave generator3, wherein, as the wave segments travel forward through Wave Formation Zone30, the waves will have adequate time and distance to properly form into a smooth wave shape, wherein by confining the wave segments as they move forward, the kinetic energy/mass transport created by wave generator3can be channeled into a smoothly shaped gravity induced wave; 2) as the wave segments travel forward, they will be prevented from unduly elongating or spreading out along the lateral down-the-line direction, which can help maintain the energy and length of the wave segments; and 3) because the wave segments are confined, and their energy is substantially preserved, their height/amplitude and shape will be substantially maintained, which can help to keep the wave segments in a substantially constant state—size-wise, height-wise, amplitude-wise and shape-wise—before they merge. Of course, the degree to which they will be substantially maintained will depend on the outward fade angle—the closer to parallel, the better they will be maintained.

Because Zone30represents a fully confined area characterized by two dividing walls20,22on either side extended in front of each wave generator3, with an outward fade angle of less than 20 degrees, it can be seen that the energy of the wave segment traveling through space30will be substantially maintained, and therefore, the size (height/amplitude) and shape of the wave segment will remain substantially unaltered prior to entering into Merging Zones52and54. Accordingly, this Zone30preferably enables the wave segments to form properly before merging with other wave segments, and helps prevent the wave segments from substantially elongating, shrinking, collapsing or losing energy, etc., such that when the wave segments merge, the size (height/amplitude) of the wave segments will remain substantially constant from one wave segment to the next, as one wave segment merges with other wave segments along convergence line60, and do so without excess turbulence or disturbance, such as unwanted eddies and flow sheers.

The next zone downstream is the Partial Wave Merging Zone52which is characterized by long dividing wall22on one side (right side) and open water on the opposite side (left side), wherein this Zone52preferably extends from the distal end of short dividing wall20(along dashed line56) and ends at distal end of long dividing wall22(along dashed line58). Even though this Zone52does not have two dividing walls on either side to confine the wave segments as Zone30does, the wave segments that travel through this Zone52are nevertheless confined on the opposite (non-walled) side by the presence of an adjacent wave segment traveling in substantially the same direction, at substantially the same speed, with substantially the same size and shape, i.e., along convergence line60, which is produced by a preceding wave generator3in the series. That is, the “open” side of Zone52(on the left side) along convergence line60will be confined by an adjacent wave segment formed by a preceding wave generator3in the series, and therefore, this wave segment will be substantially confined on both sides, i.e., by dividing wall22on one side and the adjacent wave segment on the other side. Accordingly, the merging of these wave segments,8band8c, necessarily helps to maintain the height/amplitude and shape of the resultant wave13, wherein together, they merge together to form resultant wave13. Note that inFIG. 4multiple wave segments are shown travelling in direction10for demonstration purposes only—in an actual application, the periodic cycle will normally be much longer, such that there would be a longer period and distance between successive waves13.

The next zone downstream is the Full Wave Merging Zone54which is characterized by open water on both sides, wherein Zone54extends beyond the distal end of long dividing wall22, in direction10, and beyond dashed line58, and into pool1. After wave segments8band8chave initially merged within Zone52(along convergence line60on the left side), it can be seen that the resultant wave will continue to travel forward, and once long dividing wall22ends on the opposite end (shown on the right side), wave segment8bwill enter Zone54(to become wave segment8c), and then, it will merge with another wave segment8btravelling in substantially the same direction on the opposite end (shown along convergence line60on the right side), which is created by a succeeding wave generator3in the series, wherein the merging of these wave segments, now8cand8b, will occur along convergence line60, within Zone54, on the opposite side. Because there is no dividing wall on either side, the wave segments that travel through Zone54will be retained on the opposite end by the next succeeding wave segment8bin the series travelling forward, in substantially the same direction, at substantially the same speed, with substantially the same height/amplitude and shape, which is produced by succeeding wave generator3.

For example, wave segment8acreated by wave generator3bwithin Zone30will become wave segment8bwithin Zone52, and then, it will merge on the left hand side within Zone52with wave segment8ccreated by wave generator3a. Then, wave segment8bwill become wave segment8cwithin Zone54, and then, that segment will merge on the right hand side within Zone54with wave segment8bcreated by wave generator3c. And, by ensuring that each succeeding wave segment travels in substantially the same direction, at substantially the same speed, and with substantially the same size and shape, they will continue to form a uniformly shaped resultant wave13.

As these wave segments merge together in this manner, i.e., along convergence line60, first on one side, and then, on the opposite side, the size (height/amplitude) and shape of each wave segment preferably remains substantially unaltered, or only altered slightly, such that collectively, they can form a uniformly sized and shaped resultant wave13. And because the size and shape of the adjacent wave segments are preferably substantially preserved, the merging of these wave segments preferably remains substantially smooth and disturbance-free, wherein undesirable cross-directional and secondary wave formations, and unwanted eddies and flow sheers, that can negatively impact the generation and transition of the resultant waves can be reduced or even eliminated.

As discussed, dividing walls20,22preferably have an outward fade angle78of less than 20 degrees relative to each other, and because the fade angle78also determines the angle at which the wave generators3are oriented and positioned relative to one another, from a practical standpoint, extending the fade angle beyond 20 degrees can be problematic from the standpoint of the pool's overall configuration. For example, the embodiment shown inFIG. 5has dividing walls20,22that have an outward fade angle of about 15 degrees, wherein only six wave generators3can be fitted within a quarter of a circle, i.e., 90 degrees, and wherein only twenty-four wave generators3can be fitted within a full circle as shown inFIG. 7. Increasing the outward fade angle therefore can effectively reduce and tighten the radius of curved stagger line6, thereby causing the resultant waves13to have a tighter arc, which can make it more difficult to form smooth resultant waves for surfing. On the other hand, reducing and tightening the radius of curved stagger line6has the advantage of being able to make pool1smaller, which can reduce overall costs, including the number of wave generators3that have to be installed and used.

In any case, when there is a fade angle78that exists between dividing walls20,22, the angle of the dividing walls can influence how the wave segments will develop and transition as they travel downstream, wherein several factors are preferably taken into account to ensure that a uniformly shaped, smooth resultant wave13can be formed within pool1, as follows:

First, because any degree of fade will cause the wave segments8to elongate or spread out, which in turn, can create a lateral down-the-line velocity vector (extending longitudinally along the down-line arc length of wave segment8), when the wave segments actually merge, they can, to the extent they elongate, collide against each other, wherein it will be desirable to limit the fade angle to the extent necessary to reduce or even eliminate this tendency. By limiting the fade angle, the spread velocity of each wave segment can be reduced, wherein, the additional wave effects that can otherwise create undesirable disturbances and turbulence such as cross-directional and secondary wave formations, unwanted eddies and flow sheers, can be limited.

Second, another factor is the relationship that exists between the height of a wave segment and its speed, wherein, when the waves are taller, the forward speed of the waves will also be increased. Therefore, when the wave speed is increased, the spread velocity of the wave segments as they elongate along the outward fade angle will also increase, thereby potentially causing the wave segments to form dissonate surface effects as they merge. On the other hand, these two factors may not be as critical in connection with the curved embodiment of the present invention insofar as when the wave generators are oriented and positioned along a curved stagger line6, the adjacent wave generators in the series will also be positioned at an angle relative to each other, such that each wave segment they create will travel in a direction that is substantially perpendicular to the front wall26of each wave generator, wherein, as they merge together, they will travel in a direction10in front of each wave generator, which, along convergence line60, will be substantially parallel to each other as they merge. That is, by the time the adjacent wave segments merge together, they will effectively be travelling substantially parallel to one another, along convergence line60, wherein the chances of creating excessive down-the-line velocities and forces that impact the formation of the resultant waves will be reduced.

What this means in connection with the second factor discussed above is that the likelihood of there being a significant collision that will negatively impact the formation of the resultant waves as a function of wave speed will be reduced, insofar as, even with an increased wave speed, if the adjacent wave segments are travelling in substantially the same direction, i.e., parallel to one another, there will be less impact between them. That is, by reducing the tendency of the wave segments to impart a down-the-line velocity against each other, the net speed at which they merge together will not significantly affect the formation of the resultant waves, i.e., even if there is an increase in wave speed, wherein that fact alone should not translate into a significant increase in the forces applied when the wave segments merge. Therefore, in addition to the first factor discussed above, it should be noted that the second factor will be less significant in connection with the curved stagger line disclosed herein.

Third, because of the principle of energy conservation, whenever a wave segment is allowed to elongate, it necessarily means that the height/amplitude of the wave will also decrease, and therefore, another factor to consider is the extent to which the wave segments will decrease in height/amplitude as a result of the higher fade angle, which will, in turn, translate into a shorter/smaller resultant wave13. That is, the higher the fade angle that exists between dividing walls20,22, the more the wave segments will elongate and spread out, and therefore, the smaller/shorter the wave segments will be, which will reduce the overall height/amplitude of resultant wave13. Accordingly, when the fade angle is too high, to produce the same size resultant wave, the wave segments will have to start out taller, which in turn, will increase the amount of energy needed to create the initial wave segment, which means that larger and/or more powerful wave generators will be needed to produce the same size resultant wave. For these reasons, it is desirable to take into account the maximum outward fade angle to ensure that the height/amplitude of the resultant wave can be preserved.

Fourth, because the wave generators are staggered, as discussed above, it can be seen that when two adjacent wave segments merge, one of the wave segments will have traveled further downstream than the adjacent wave segment in the series. And because the fade angle of the dividing walls will cause each wave segment to elongate and reduce in height as it progresses forward, the relative size, height and amplitude of the merging wave segments will eventually differ. That is, one wave segment will have traveled further downstream than the adjacent wave segment, and therefore, when the two wave segments merge, depending on the fade angle, a wave height differential may be created between them, which can adversely affect how the segments merge. Accordingly, not only will there be a wave width differential as the wave segments elongate, but there will also be a wave height differential as the wave segments merge, which can potentially cause undesirable disturbances and turbulences to occur such as along convergence line60, and especially along the top breaking portion of each wave. In other words, because of the stagger distance, and the need for each wave generator to be activated sequentially, one after the other, one wave segment will inevitably travel further downstream than the adjacent wave segment in the series, in which case, one wave segment will elongate and spread out further than the other by the time they merge, wherein a wave height/amplitude differential may end up existing, which can cause undesirable disturbances and turbulences, such as cross-directional and secondary wave formation, unwanted eddies and flow sheers, to occur.

Technically speaking, assuming that the caisson width is defined as W0, and the energy flux generated along the convergence line is defined as E0, then, the energy flux per unit width at the caissons is E0/W0. At the point where the wave segments merge, W1 and W2 represent the widths of two merging wave segments, and since the total energy flux E0 per caisson is still equal, the energy flux of the two merging wave segments per unit width are E0/W1 and E0/W2 respectively. And since energy flux per unit length is proportional to wave height squared there will be a wave height differential when the two wave segments merge that is equal to wave height H1 and H2 respectively. This wave height differential can be calculated by H2/H1=SQRT(W1/W2). So, if W2 (the wave segment of the most forward caisson) is, for example, 0.8×W1 (the wave segment of the preceding adjacent caisson), H2/H1=SQRT(1/0.8)=1.118 or in other words, H2 is 11.8% higher at the point of merge than H1.

Also, after resultant wave13is formed, there will be a tendency for the height/amplitude of the resultant wave13to even out over time/distance, wherein the higher points along the crest of wave13will want to drop down to the height of the lower points along the crest, due to the restoring force of gravity acting on the wave, i.e., as water seeks its own level. This can cause a certain amount of undesirable changes in motion to be created, extending laterally along the length of the forward moving crest of resultant wave13, which is another reason why it is desirable to limit the outward fade angle to less than 20 degrees. At the same time, because resultant wave13will continue to arc and elongate and spread out over time/distance, i.e., as the resultant wave travels forward after the wave segments merge, the likelihood of these motions negatively affecting the shape of the wave will be reduced.

In this embodiment, because the ends of the wave segments will travel in substantially the same direction, i.e., substantially parallel to each other, along convergence line60, even if one wave segment starts out taller than an adjacent wave segment, and therefore, travels faster, the net effect is that because there is little or no concomitant increase in the convergence or collision forces that may be exerted between adjacent wave segments, the merging of the wave segments will not necessarily create undue greater turbulence, eddies, etc., other than those created by the wave height/amplitude differential discussed above, which is a function of the outward fade angle78and stagger distance69.

In any event, while there may be no absolute cut off point for the allowable amount of outward fade angle that can exist between any two dividing walls, it is clear that when the fade angle is too high, and/or when the waves are traveling too fast or start out too high, and/or when the stagger angle and/or distance is too great, etc., the combination of forces may make it less likely that a high quality resultant wave suitable for surfing can be produced. Accordingly, the present invention contemplates that the above factors should be taken into account when designing a wave pool of this kind, wherein the amount of excess turbulence and disturbance that can be tolerated as the wave segments merge together will be a function of the above factors, including the outward fade angle that exists between the dividing walls.

FIGS. 6-8show examples of wave pools with different configurations each having a similar curved arrangement of wave generators3with dividing walls20,22extended forward therefrom, wherein each wave generator is extended along a curved stagger line6. In each case, the wave generators3are substantially similar but the overall configuration, including the total number of wave generators in each embodiment, and the how they are oriented differ from one to the other.

FIG. 6shows embodiment100having six wave generators3with dividing walls20,22extended in front of each generator, wherein each pair of dividing walls has an outward fade angle of about 15 degrees and the wave generators are oriented at about 15 degrees relative to each other, i.e., wave generator3ais angled 15 degrees relative to wave generator3b, and wave generator3bis angled 15 degrees relative to wave generator3c, etc., wherein a total of six wave generators3are extended around the curvature from about zero degrees to ninety degrees, or a quarter of a circle, when taking into account side walls2,4. Wave generators3are positioned along deep end5along curved stagger line6and extended across pool100is a similarly curved break line9and a curved inclined shoreline7extended along shallow end11.

FIG. 7shows a similar embodiment110having twenty-four wave generators3with dividing walls20,22extended in front of each generator, wherein the dividing walls also have an outward fade angle of about 15 degrees. In this embodiment, the wave generators3are also oriented at about 15 degrees relative to each other, i.e., wave generator3ais angled 15 degrees relative to wave generator3b, and wave generator3bis angled 15 degrees relative to wave generator3c, etc., wherein a total of twenty-four wave generators3are extended around the full circle, each at about 15 degrees relative to each other. By extending wave generators3around a full circle, waves can be created that flow across pool110, i.e., substantially endlessly, by activating each wave generator3, one after the other, wherein a continuous resultant wave13can be created that flows around and peels along the circular shoreline7. Wave generators3in this embodiment are preferably extended in a circular arrangement around the center of a circle which forms deep end5, wherein they extend along a similar curved (circular) stagger line6. A similarly curved break line9and inclined shoreline7are also extended around the full circle, i.e., around the outer perimeter, concentrically having a common center point, which forms shallow end11.

FIG. 8shows another embodiment120having twelve wave generators3with dividing walls20,22extended in front of each generator, wherein the dividing walls also have an outward fade angle of about 15 degrees. This embodiment also has wave generators3that are oriented at about 15 degrees relative to each other, i.e., wave generator3ais angled 15 degrees relative to wave generator3b, and wave generator3bis angled 15 degrees relative to wave generator3c, etc., wherein a total of six wave generators3a,3b,3c,3d,3e,3f, are extended along curved stagger line6aon one side, from about zero degrees to about ninety degrees, or a quarter of a circle.

But unlike embodiment100, embodiment120includes a similar but opposing arrangement of six wave generators3g,3h,3i,3j,3k,3l, extended along a similar but opposite facing curved stagger line6b, which is extended in an inverted manner on the opposite side. Thus, embodiment120has wave generator3gangled 15 degrees relative to wave generator3h, and wave generator3hangled 15 degrees relative to wave generator3i, etc., wherein a total of six wave generators,3g,3h,3i,3j,3k,3l, are extended along a similar curved stagger line6bon the opposing side, forming another ninety degrees, or a quarter of a circle, of wave generators3facing the opposite direction. The overall configuration is, in plan view, similar to the shape of an arrowhead, with side walls122and124on either side, and a similarly curved break line9aand inclined shoreline7aextended along a shallow end11a, and an opposing but similarly curved break line9band inclined shoreline7bextended along an opposing shallow end11bon the opposite side.

Each half preferably produces waves113in much the same manner as embodiment100ofFIG. 6insofar as they each have six wave generators3extended along a curved stagger line6that extends about a quarter of a circle around. But because each half is configured to adjoin each other at the far end126, along convergence line128, it can be seen that as the two resultant waves113aand113bare created by the wave generators3on either side, they will eventually merge together along convergence line128, extending forward along a pair of center dividing walls130extended downstream. By configuring the two halves in this manner, resultant waves113aand113bare preferably formed by the respective halves and then travel forward across pool120and then eventually merge together along convergence line128, to form a single resultant wave113that travels forward and breaks along the break lines9aand9bthat extend toward far end126. And because the sloped shorelines21aand21bare sloped toward each other, and break lines9aand9bintersect in the center, along convergence line128, the peeling waves113aand113bthat travel forward across opposing shorelines7aand7bwill eventually meet and break at far end126.

Alternatively, waves113aand113bcan be made out of phase, wherein, there would either be no convergence and a significant reduction in wave height as the wave spreads out across the end of the pool, or a dissonant wave merger offset from the convergence line128depending upon the timing differential of the interacting wave forms.

FIG. 9shows an alternate embodiment with dividing walls320,322extended in front of each wave generator,303a,303b,303c,303d, wherein the dividing walls have a slight inward fade angle between them rather than an outward angle. This embodiment has multiple wave generators303formed by multiple caissons,317a,317b,317c,317d, each of which is preferably in the shape of a substantial rectangle from above, including front wall326, a pair of side walls318,319, and a back wall328, wherein a pair of dividing walls320,322is preferably extended substantially longitudinally forward in direction310in front of each wave generator303. In this case, dividing walls320,322are preferably inwardly angled relative to each other, wherein wave generators303are also inwardly angled relative to each other, such that they are extended along an inverted curved stagger line, to accommodate the arrangement shown.

In this embodiment, dividing walls320,322are preferably extended substantially close to parallel to each other, but with a slight inward fade angle, wherein the embodiment shown has an inward fade angle of about one or two degrees. And because the fade angle of dividing walls320,322is inward, each succeeding wave generator303in the series is preferably angled inward relative to each preceding wave generator303in the series. For example, wave generator303bis angled inward about one or two degrees relative to wave generator303a, and wave generator303cis angled inward about one or two degrees relative to wave generator303b, wherein wave generator303cis collectively angled inward about two to four degrees relative to wave generator303a. And by virtue of the stagger distance369between adjacent wave generators303a,303b,303c,303d, it can be seen that collectively the wave generators are extended along an inverted curved stagger line opposite the curvature of line6shown inFIG. 1.

The energy of wave segments308aformed by each wave generator303will thus be substantially confined in front of each wave generator303, between dividing walls320,322, as they travel forward in travel direction310, and before they merge together with adjacent wave segments308b,308c, along convergence lines360. By angling the dividing walls inward, wave segments308aare not only confined on both sides, but as they progress, they will reduce in length, i.e., narrow, rather than elongate, in the lateral down-the-line direction, such that, due to the principle of energy conservation, they will increase in height/amplitude as they progress forward, rather than decrease. And by angling the wave generators inward relative to each other, each wave segment308awill travel in direction310(which is slightly angled relative to each other), which will enable the ends of those wave segments to travel in substantially the same direction, i.e., substantially parallel to each other, such that, along convergence lines360, they will merge together without creating undue turbulence, thereby enabling smooth resultant waves313to be created. And then, after wave segments308a,308b,308c, merge together to form resultant wave313, the wave that is created will continue to narrow and therefore grow in height/amplitude as it travels toward shore. And by increasing the height/amplitude of the resultant wave313, taller waves that travel faster toward the shoreline can then be created.

The shoreline in this embodiment can be similar to shoreline7shown inFIG. 1except the curve is inverted, along with breaker line9, which is also inverted. Preferably, all of these curves, i.e., stagger line, breaker line and shoreline, are substantially parallel to each other, although not necessarily so.

Another aspect of the invention relates to a wave dampening system such as disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 6,460,201 or 8,561,221, which are incorporated herein by reference, and as shown inFIG. 2, which can be provided along the shallow end to reduce undesirable wave effects such as rip currents and reverse flows, etc., which can adversely affect the breaking of the waves along the shoreline. A standard shoreline that has a floor that progresses upward at an incline from the deep end to the shallow end, or other sloped beach can be provided instead.