Carrying out said process and the resulting jewels

The present invention relates to an industrial process for manufacturing jewelry such as rings preferably in precious metal set with stones, consisting in the following operations: PA0 drilling into the said base, of a cylindrical hole of suitable dimensions, PA0 provision on the periphery of said hole and at a certain distance of the surface on which the stones will appear, of a pre-setting groove whose dimensions are adapted to those of the stone, and PA0 fitting the stone in the pre-setting groove by clipping.

The present invention relates to an industrial process for manufacturing 
jewelry, such as rings, set with stones; the invention also relates to the 
equipment usable for manufacturing these jewels and the jewels obtained. 
To manufacture rings, in precious metal for example, and set with stones, 
it is generally known to produce first a suitably calibrated ring of the 
metal, then to make cylinder-shaped holes in the metal, and to place the 
stone to be set in the hole, the setting of the stone being effected by 
bringing the metal surrounding the stone over the edge of the latter, by 
hammering for example. 
It is known that it may be advantageous to alter the cross-section of the 
holes made in the ring (on the inner face thereof) in order to make it 
square; this operation is normally done by hand, using a file for example. 
It is also known to produce rings such as described hereinabove by using 
claws which, once the stone is set in a suitably provided seating, will be 
flanged over the stone. 
These various processes have kept the production to an essentially 
artisanal level and it would be an advantage, especially with wedding 
rings for example, to industrialize the setting operation. This being 
precisely the object of the invention. 
The process according to the invention is characterized in that a 
non-porous elastic metal base, having good mechanical properties, is used 
as a starting product, the base, which may be for example a ring of 
precious metal, is then subjected to the following operations: 
drilling into the base, of a cylindrical hole of suitable dimensions, 
provision on the periphery of the hole and at a certain distance from the 
surface on which the stones will appear, of a pre-setting groove whose 
dimensions are adapted to those of the stone, and 
fitting the stone in the pre-setting groove by clipping.

These various operations are specified hereinafter with particular 
reference to the example of rings, in which case the base is 
annular-shaped and the surface on which the stone will be set will be 
called the outer surface. The holes according to the invention can be made 
by any known means. The drilling which is carried out on the outer surface 
of the ring, is effected so that the resulting hole has two diameters: one 
relatively large diameter close to the outer surface of the ring and a 
smaller diameter close to the inner surface of the ring. The hole is given 
this particular structure so that on the one hand, the part of the hole 
with the larger diameter corresponds (taking into account the pre-setting 
groove) to the size of the stones to be set, but that, on the other hand, 
the "inner" part of the ring has still enough metal to provide the desired 
mechanical strength. 
A cylindrical hole with two diameters is easily drilled with a so-called 
"two-diameter" drill. 
The pre-setting groove can also be made by any known means and in 
particular by means of a boring tool, whose axis is off centre with 
respect to the axis of the hole in which it is placed. 
The shape of the groove is not determinant; it can however be 
advantageously triangular in cross-section; in effect, the shape of the 
groove is designed so as to adapt as exactly as possible to the shape of 
the stone which will be set. 
The position of the groove inside the hole is important since the stone is 
set by "clipping" into the groove. The clipping of the stone implies, when 
it is fitted, a slight elastic deformation of the metal part forming the 
"outer" edge or lip of the groove. Said groove should therefore be 
positioned so that such elastic deformation is possible. 
According to preferred embodiments of the invention, at least one groove is 
provided, by milling for example, on the outer surface of the ring, which 
groove, cooperating with the pre-setting groove situated in the immediate 
vicinity of the surface, gives rise to claws which can help the clipping 
in of the stone. But, as indicated above, these grooves are not absolutely 
necessary since, by choosing adequately the position and the shape of the 
pre-setting groove it is possible to obtain sufficiently resilient "edges" 
to allow the clipping in of the stones without grooves. 
The groove or grooves can be made along the whole circumference of the ring 
whilst going through the middle plane of the holes; it is also possible to 
place them perpendicularly to the lateral faces of the ring according to 
the diameter of each hole or at equal distance between these holes. It is 
conceivable that by carefully selecting the position and the width of the 
grooves, the cut outlines that are obtained are of very varied shapes and 
"deformability". 
In a further embodiment of the invention, the shape of the opening of the 
radial cylindrical hole has been modified on the side of the inner face of 
the ring. It is indeed, known, in jewelry, that it may be advantageous for 
the opening to be square-, rectangular- or diamond-shaped. To alter the 
opening, a punch has been designed whose axis is adequately inclined with 
respect to the axis of the cylindrical hole which punch works by mortising 
and is driven with a pre-determined movement. 
The main advantage of the industrial process according to the invention is 
that the different operations can be automated in themselves and in 
succession. Since each individual operation can be automated, this implies 
that the diameters of the drilling and of the groove can be adjusted 
exactly to the dimensions of the stone to be set in; this accuracy allows 
for example the setting of jointed stones. Moreover, the angle of the 
groove is also adaptable to the stone and to the setting process; finally, 
it is possible to choose adequately, and always in relation to the stone 
in particular, the distance of the groove to the outer surface of the 
ring. 
These various operations are possible with known industrial elements 
working with a precision which can be of the order of one 
hundredth-millimeter. 
Also, they can be programmed one after the other on a single machine or on 
different machines, this permitting to automatically produce rings in 
series. 
Various types of materials can be used as metal to produce the annular 
base; precious metals such as gold or platinum can be used, or more 
ordinary metals or alloys such as lead. The metal used is only required to 
have the adequate elastic and mechanical properties; for example when the 
metal is gold, it is advisable to use a gold which has the elasticity of 
rolled gold and a non-porous structure. 
As stones, precious stones such as diamonds for example can be used; 
synthetic stones or any other stones of sufficient hardness could also be 
used. 
The process according to the invention has been described in reference to 
the manufacture of rings set with stones; it is clear for any one skilled 
in the art that the same process and apparatus can be used to produce 
jewelry of any shape, which are meant to be set with stones. The following 
non-limitative example illustrates the invention. 
The ring to be produced will be for example of size 52, of a type with 
claws (the inner circumference of the ring being 52 mm), and set with 
5/100 carat cut diamonds (of average diameter 2.30 mm). The thickness of 
the ring will be 1.6 mm and its width 2.7 mm. The gold ring, produced by 
cutting into sections a tube obtained by continuous casting, having been 
surfaced and calibrated by known means. 
The ring is brought on to an apparatus which will effect the following 
operations: 
drilling of 22 cylindrical holes with a two-diameter drill, the diameter of 
the outer hole being 2 mm, 
cutting a groove in each hole with a slot-cutter, said groove being 
situated at 0.30 mm from the outer surface of the ring, and having a 
diameter of 2.50 mm and an angle at its apex of the same order as the 
corresponding angle of the diamond, 
cutting of grooves of 0.60 mm depth and 1.40 mm width with a straight mill; 
the grooves are automatically positioned by the machine, on the one hand, 
according to a diameter of the the cylindrical holes (diameter parallel to 
the axis of the ring), on the other hand, between the holes (parallel to 
the axis of the ring, the width of the mill being 0.25 mm and the milling 
depth being 0.60 mm) and, finally, inside the middle plane of the ring 
(width of the mill 0.80 mm and milling depth 0.60 mm); these grooves thus 
determine four claws per hole, 
after that, each hole receives a small diamond by a simple clipping in 
operation. 
All the preparatory operations of the conventional stone setting operations 
are thus eliminated. 
A machine permitting to carry out industrially the aforesaid operations can 
be briefly described as follows: 
The suitably prepared ring is placed on a spindle which can pivot of a 
given angle due to outside control means; the ring is attacked first by a 
two diameter drilling tool which will drill cylindrical holes at each stop 
position of the ring and, second, by a "quill" (provided at its end with a 
reamer which, after being positioned in the hole with the larger diameter 
is set over by pivoting on itself in order to produce the setting groove). 
This quill will only start operating when an adequate hole in the ring 
presents itself. 
All the operations are controlled by an electronic device which will 
control in particular: 
the angle of rotation of the ring between each machining operation, 
the depth and duration of the machining operations (drilling of the holes 
and reaming with the quill), 
and the synchronizing of the machining operations with the rotation of the 
ring. 
The machine can also comprise a milling device for producing the groove or 
grooves required on the outer surface of the ring. The operation of the 
milling device can be controlled electronically (frequency and depth of 
the grooves) and the device can be electronically coupled with the control 
system described hereinabove. 
To make the square opening on the inner face of the rings, it is possible 
to use the same machine or to use a different one, since the shaping of 
this square opening takes longer than any of the aforesaid operations. 
The mortising is carried out by introducing in each hole, from the outer 
surface of the ring, a small punch which is inclined with respect to the 
axis of the hole and, being driven with a to-and-fro movement along its 
axis, removes, with a transverse movement, parts of metal from the ring so 
as to give a substantially truncated structure to the inside of the 
hole(with circular, square, rectangular or diamond-shaped cross-section, 
depending on the shape of the chisel and on the way it is controlled).