Cosmetic cream formulation

A skin cream formulation, which is one of four components used in a cosmetic regime, is disclosed. Applying the regime to the skin increases epidermal cell turnover without skin irritation. The other three components used in the regime are a cleanser, a lotion, and a tonic.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
This invention relates to one component for use in a novel cell renewal 
cosmetic regime, which regime increases the rate of cell turnover without 
skin irritation. 
In the natural renewing cycle of skin, cells are constantly being born, 
rising through the epidermal layers to the surface and falling off. A 
young skin renews its surface layers every two to three weeks. A mature 
skin can take twice as long. And the longer this process takes, the more 
cells develop areas of weakness that cause a faster loss of natural 
moisture and the dry lifeless appearance that's found in older looking 
skin. 
Acceleration of natural cell renewal or turnover speeds the replacement of 
dead cells by new ones in the outer epidermal layer or stratum corneum, 
thereby giving the skin a younger-looking appearance. The newer cells are 
moist and fresh, replacing the old, dry cells on the surface. 
Although irritation of the skin will increase the sloughing off of dead 
stratum corneum cells, such irritation is undesirable because of the 
damage to the skin. It is, therefore, desirable to increase cell turnover 
without irritation. 
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
It is, therefore, an object of the present invention to provide a skin 
cream formulation, which is one of four components for use in a cosmetic 
regime. The regime's use increases epidermal cell turnover without skin 
irritation. The other three components for use in the regime are: a 
cleanser, a lotion, and a tonic. 
DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS 
In accordance with this invention there is provided a skin cream 
formulation, which is one of four components for use in a cosmetic regime. 
The use of the regime increases cell turnover without causing skin 
irritation. The regime consists of the application to the skin of a 
cleanser, a cream, a lotion, and a tonic. Each of the three other 
components is a separate invention; the cleanser is claimed in application 
Ser. No. 179,628, filed of even date herewith, the lotion is claimed in 
application Ser. No. 179,629, also filed of even date herewith, and the 
tonic is claimed in application Ser. No. 179,625, filed of even date 
herewith. The use of the four components in a regime to increase cell 
turnover is claimed in application Ser. No. 179,627, filed of even date 
herewith. 
The preferred regime usually begins in the morning with the use of the 
tonic, followed by the lotion. Later, usually at night, the cleanser is 
used, and then the tonic and cream are applied. However, the order and the 
timing of the use of the four products can be varied to suit individual 
needs. For example, the cleanser also can be used in the morning. Some 
effect will be obtained even if all the compositions are not used or if 
there is a delay between usage. 
The cream formulation consists essentially of, in percent by weight: 
______________________________________ 
Ingredients Percent 
______________________________________ 
light mineral oil 4.45 
polyethylene homopolymer (1500 m. wt., 
density 0.91 g/cc) 2.50 
undecanoic triglyceride 
2.00 
squalane 5.00 
distilled lanolin alcohol 
0.55 
white beeswax 1.00 
polydimethyl cyclosiloxane 
9.00 
triglyceryl diisostearate 
4.00 
isopropyl myristate 5.00 
propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 
0.10 
quaternary bentonite 0.40 
deionized water 59.00 
methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 
0.20 
70% sorbitol solution 5.00 
imidazolidinyl urea 0.30 
urea 0.50 
glyoxyldiureide 0.20 
DL-pantothenyl alcohol 0.50 
cis-1-(3-chloroallyl)-3,5,7-triaza-1- 
azoniaadamantane chloride 
0.10 
fragrance 0.20 
______________________________________ 
In general, the individual ingredients used in the formulation should be of 
a quality or purity (such as U.S.P. or N.F.) suitable for cosmetic use.

The formulation of this invention is prepared by mixing the ingredients 
according to conventional methods. The preparation of this formulation is 
described in the following example. The example is illustrative of the 
formulation embraced by the invention, but is not to be construed as 
limiting the invention. 
EXAMPLE 1 
Cream 
Formulation: 
______________________________________ 
Percent 
Phase Ingredient by Weight 
______________________________________ 
A light mineral oil 4.45 
Polyethylene 617 (Allied Chemical, 
polyethylene homopolymer, 1500 
m. wt., density 0.91 g/cc, 
softening pt. 102.degree. C., viscosity 
at 140.degree. C. 145 cps) 
2.50 
B glyceryl triundecanoate 
(undecanoic triglyceride) 
2.00 
Robane (Robeco, squalane) 
5.00 
Super Hartolan (Croda, distilled 
lanolin alcohol) 0.55 
white beeswax 1.00 
Silicone Fluid 344 (Dow Corning, 
polydimethyl cyclosiloxane) 
9.00 
triglyceryl diisostearate (poly- 
glyceryl-3-diisostearate) 
4.00 
isopropyl myristate 5.00 
propylparaben(propyl p-hydroxy- 
benzoate) 0.10 
C Bentone No. 38 (NL Industries, 
quaternary bentonite) 0.40 
D deionized water 58.00 
methylparaben (methyl p-hydroxy 
benzoate) 0.20 
sorbitol solution 70% (U.S.P. Sorbo) 
5.00 
imidazolidinyl urea 0.30 
urea 0.50 
Allantoin (Sutton and Schuylkill, 
glyoxyldiureide) 0.20 
dL-Panthenol (DL-pantothenyl alcohol) 
0.50 
E Dowicil 200 (Dow Chemical, cis isomer 
of 1-(3-chloroallyl)-3,5,7-triaza- 
1-azoniaadamantane chloride) 
0.10 
deionized water 1.00 
F Essence 66.001 (Firmenich, fragrance) 
0.20 
______________________________________ 
Procedure: 
The light mineral oil of Phase A is heated to about 90.degree.-95.degree. 
C. and then the polyethylene is added while mixing with a Lightnin' mixer. 
The mixing is continued until Phase A becomes a clear solution. The 
ingredients of Phase B are added to a jacketed tank that is equipped with 
a homomixer and a side-sweep (Ross). Phase B is heated to about 
90.degree.-95.degree. C. and mixed thoroughly. Phase A is added to Phase B 
and then mixed thoroughly with the homomixer. 
While Phase AB is being mixed with the homomixer, the Bentone of Phase C is 
slowly sprinkled into Phase AB. Mixing is continued until the Bentone is 
completely wetted and a homogeneous mass is acquired. The temperature is 
maintained at 90.degree.-95.degree. C. 
The ingredients of Phase D are added to a container equipped with a 
Lightnin' mixer. The container is then heated to about 
90.degree.-95.degree. C. and Phase D is mixed until the powder ingredients 
are dissolved. Phase D is added to Phase ABC and mixed with the homomixer 
and side-sweep. The product is homomixed until it becomes homogeneous and 
has a bright white shine. Homomixing is stopped when the product has 
cooled to 50.degree. C., but side-sweeping continues. The product is then 
cooled, but must not be shock cooled. 
Phase E is prepared separately by dissolving the Dowicil 200 in the 
deionized water. Phase ABCD is cooled to about 40.degree.-45.degree. C. 
and Phase E is added. The product is mixed thoroughly with the side-sweep. 
Phase F is added, keeping the mixture at about 40.degree.-45.degree. C. 
and mixing completely. The product is then discharged into suitable 
stainless steel storage containers. 
When the above-described formulations are used in accordance with the 
method of this invention, the rate of skin cell turnover is increased 
without skin irritation. The rate of skin cell turnover is frequently 
reported as transit time. Transit time is defined as the time required for 
a newly formed stratum corneum cell to rise up through the stratum corneum 
and finally slough off. Therefore, the less transit time required, the 
better the appearance of the skin, because younger cells are on its 
surface. 
The test for measuring transit time is described by L. H. Jansen, et al., 
"Improved Fluorescence Staining Technique for Estimating Turnover of the 
Human Stratum Corneum", British Journal of Dermatology, 1974, 90, 9-12. 
The transit or replacement time of the human stratum corneum is determined 
by measuring the number of days required for a fluorescent marker, dansyl 
chloride, to disappear after application to the skin. The dansyl chloride 
only stains the stratum corneum (outer cell layer) and the shedding of the 
stratum corneum is signified by the disappearance of the dansyl chloride. 
Using the Jansen procedure, the transit time of the present regime is 
measured and compared with the transit time of several commercially 
available, skin-care cosmetic products, identified as products A to E in 
Table I. Dansyl chloride is applied to both upper inner arms of each 
subject, after two weeks of pretreatment with the product. Then one arm is 
treated daily with the particular product, while the other arm is 
untreated. The number of days required for the dansyl chloride to 
disappear from each arm is then recorded. The results for the treated arms 
are averaged for the particular product and compared to the average for 
the untreated arms. The results are shown in Table I. The larger the 
difference between the control and treated times, the more effective is 
the product. 
The test was run using women from young (19-29 years) and middle (31-58 
years) age groups for products A-E and the regime. 
The present regime consists of using all four components in the following 
order: the cleanser and tonic were used in the morning, followed by the 
lotion; later, at night, the cleanser was used and then the tonic and 
cream were applied. 
TABLE I 
______________________________________ 
Mean Transit Time.sup.a 
Treated 
Number with Control Dif- 
Product of Subjects 
Product (untreated) 
ference 
______________________________________ 
A 11 16.1 17.0 0.9 
B 11 15.9 17.3 1.4 
C 10 14.1 15.3 1.2 
D 10 13.5 16.0 2.5 
E 10 18.2 22.1 3.9 
Regime 
(young age group) 
8 13.75 20.63 6.88 
Regime 
(middle age group) 
12 15.67 22.08 6.41 
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.sup.a in days