Method for reducing skin wrinkles and regulating skin atrophy

A method for reducing signs of aging in human skin. The method includes the steps of (a) topically applying to the skin a hydroxy acid product having at most a hydroxy acid concentration of approximately 7.0% and having a pH range of between 3 and 4 which causes an increase in exfoliation of the skin; (b) topically applying to the skin a non-hydroxy acid product; (c) repeating steps (a) and (b) at least twice daily for approximately four weeks; and (d) repeating only step (b) at least twice daily for approximately another 4 weeks.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
1. The Field of the Invention 
This invention relates generally to skin care products, and more 
particularly to a method by which wrinkles in the skin are smoothed. 
2. The Background Art 
It is known in the art to use hydroxy acid products to treat human skin. 
Hydroxy acids are known to "alleviate or improve skin lines; blotches; 
blemishes; nodules; wrinkles; pigmented spots; atrophy; precancerous 
lesions; elastotic changes characterized by leathery, coarse, rough, dry 
and yellowish skin; and other skin changes associated with intrinsic aging 
or skin damages caused by extrinsic factors such as sunlight, radiations, 
air pollution, wind, cold, dampness, heat, chemicals, smoke and cigarette 
smoking." See U.S. Pat. No. 5,547,988 (Yu et al). 
Hydroxy acids are effective because the human skin has an inherent (but 
weak) buffering system that is easily overcome by hydroxy acid 
formulations that are available over the counter. These formulations have 
the desired concentration range of hydroxy acids and pH range of products 
that are intended for unsupervised home use. The mechanism of action for 
hydroxy acids is not completely understood, but it is known that to be 
effective in increasing basal cell renewal rates and to be effective in 
increasing exfoliation times in a cosmetic formulation, the hydroxy acid 
formulation itself needs to be at a pH of less than 4.0 regardless of the 
acid concentration. Hydroxy acid formulations with a pH of less than 3.0 
may be effective, but should not be considered for unsupervised home use 
and formulations with a pH higher than 4.0 will generally have little if 
any effect on skin physiology. Once the hydroxy acid formulation contacts 
the skin there is an almost immediate yet transient decrease in skin pH. 
The amount of time (anywhere from 20 minutes to 2 hours) that skin pH is 
lowered below the normal range of 4.5 to 6.0 will vary from person to 
person. 
In 1997, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) published its findings on 
the safety of alpha hydroxy acid products. To summarize, the FDA declared 
alpha hydroxy acid products safe for unsupervised use at concentrations of 
no more than 10% and at a pH of no less than 3.5. However, it may be 
possible to use products containing 10% or more acids when the products in 
this concentration range are generally at a pH of less than 3.0. 
Furthermore, products containing 10% or more acids can be used 
continuously with continued benefits to the skin. However, these products 
are more likely to cause problems for the user, i.e., burning, stinging, 
erythema, irritation, etc. The acids making up the 10% concentration are 
glycolic and lactic. 
It is well known that human skin will stop or be slower in responding to 
cell renewal stimulation after 4 to 8 weeks of continued use of topically 
applied hydroxy acids. The skin gradually strengthens its buffering system 
to adapt to the daily assault from hydroxy acids so that any effect the 
acids have on skin physiology is eventually nullified. To regain the 
buffering system that allows for beneficial cell renewal stimulation, the 
skin should be allowed to rest from hydroxy acid use for a period of 4 to 
6 weeks. This rest allows the buffering system to return to normal and the 
process can be started again. 
A significant problem of the prior art is that most of the improvements in 
the skin condition that are made through the hydroxy acid treatments in 
the first 4 to 8 weeks are lost during the rest period in the next 4 to 6 
weeks. During the rest period, the skin tends to return to its original 
state so that when the buffering system returns to normal the beneficial 
effects that were realized in the skin during the first 4 to 8 weeks are 
no longer apparent. The cell renewal stimulation process is once again at 
or very near the original state of the skin. 
The '988 (Yu et al) patent teaches a method for improving the skin 
condition of a human. Although the '988 patent does not mention a 
particular pH to be used in the hydroxy acid formulation, the patent 
mentions a formulation containing at least a 5.0% concentration of hydroxy 
acid or its derivative. In fact, the '988 patent teaches that the hydroxy 
concentration is "preferably between 8 to 20%." Column 14, lines 28-30. In 
addition, the '988 patent teaches that "Blotches, blemishes, nodules, age 
spots, pigmented spots, skin lines, and fine wrinkles improved or 
disappeared" three to five months after the recommended treatment. Column 
15, lines 39-42. The '988 patent also teaches application of the hydroxy 
acid product on a daily basis without rest periods for the skin. Column 
18, lines 17-18. 
Yu et al are the inventors of another related invention described in U.S. 
Pat. No. 5,422,370 (the '370 patent). The '370 patent teaches a method to 
improve dry and flaky skin using a product having 3% to 7% hydroxy acids. 
Column 15, lines 52-64. The '370 patent does not teach a specific amount 
of topical lotion to be applied nor a specific time period for which the 
lotion should be applied. See column 20, lines 52-56. The length of time 
the lotion is applied is indefinite, being stated as one to three weeks 
for improvements in age spots (column 18, line 29), one to three months 
for substantial eradication of age spots (column 18, lines 30-31), and two 
to four months for complete eradication of age spots (column 18, lines 
33-35). The '370 patent also states that a composition with a 10% to 20% 
concentration of hydroxy acids is preferable when treating wrinkles but 
that favorable results do not occur within four months of time. Column 18, 
lines 35-43. The '370 patent does not disclose alternating hydroxy acid 
use with rest periods for improvements in skin condition. 
Of current interest is a cell renewal stimulation process that preserves 
skin improvements that are realized through treatments with hydroxy acid 
products when the use of the hydroxy acid products is alternated with a 
rest period. 
OBJECTS AND SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
It is an object of the present invention to provide a system for reducing 
the signs of aging in human skin through the use of hydroxy acid and 
non-hydroxy acid products. 
It is another object of the invention to provide such a system that may be 
cyclically repeated over a period of approximately two months and therein 
maintain improvements in skin condition throughout the cycle. 
It is also an object of the present invention to provide such a system for 
reducing wrinkles in the human skin. 
It is a further object of the present invention to provide such a system 
for alleviating skin blemishes, nodules, pigmented spots, atrophy, and 
precancerous lesions. 
It is still another object of the present invention to provide such a 
system for alleviating elastotic changes in the skin such as leathery, 
coarse, rough, dry, and yellowish skin. 
It is an additional object of the present invention to provide such a 
system for counteracting the detrimental effects on the skin caused by 
sunlight, wind, cold air, pollution, chemicals, and other hazards that may 
be encountered by the skin. 
It is yet another object of the invention, in accordance with one aspect 
thereof, to provide a system for alleviating signs of aging through 
topically applying a hydroxy acid product and a non-hydroxy acid product. 
It is still another object of the invention, in accordance with another 
aspect thereof, to provide a system for alleviating signs of aging in the 
skin of the face and neck. 
The above objects and others not specifically recited are realized through 
a method for reducing signs of aging in human skin. The method includes 
the steps of (a) topically applying to the skin a hydroxy acid product 
having at most a hydroxy acid concentration of 7.0% and having a pH range 
of between 3 and 4 which causes an increase in exfoliation of the skin; 
(b) topically applying to the skin a non-hydroxy acid product for 
tightening and firming the skin; (c) repeating steps (a) and (b) at least 
twice daily for approximately four weeks; and (d) repeating only step (b) 
at least twice daily for approximately another 4 weeks. 
It is an advantage of the present invention to provide a system for 
reducing the signs of aging in human skin through the use of both hydroxy 
acid and non-hydroxy acid products so that a method of the system may be 
cyclically repeated over a period of approximately two months while 
improvements in skin condition are maintained throughout the cycle. 
It is also an advantage of the present invention to provide such a system 
for reducing wrinkles in human skin on the face and neck, for alleviating 
skin blemishes, nodules, pigmented spots, atrophy, and precancerous 
lesions, for alleviating elastotic changes in the skin such as leathery, 
coarse, rough, dry, and yellowish skin, and for counteracting the 
detrimental effects on the skin caused by sunlight, wind, cold air, 
pollution, chemicals, and other hazards that may be encountered by the 
skin. 
Additional objects and advantages of the invention will be set forth in the 
description which follows, and in part will be apparent from the 
description, or may be learned by the practice of the present invention. 
The objects and advantages of the invention may be realized and obtained 
by means of the instruments and combinations particularly pointed out in 
the appended claims.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION 
The invention will be discussed so as to enable one skilled in the art to 
make and use the invention. It is to be understood that the following 
description is only exemplary of the principles of the present invention, 
and should not be viewed as narrowing the appended claims. 
As used herein, "hydroxy acid" refers to 2-hydroxy carboxylic acids and 
related compounds, and mixtures thereof. U.S. Pat. No. 5,422,370, both to 
Yu et al., are hereby incorporated by referenced because of the detail 
with which such hydroxy acids are described. Preferred hydroxy acids 
include lactic acid, citric acid, and salicylic acid and mixtures thereof. 
As used herein, a "hydroxy acid product" refers to a topical skin care 
product useful for reducing signs of aging of skin and for smoothing rough 
and/or dry skin comprising an effective amount of a hydroxy acid or 
mixture of hydroxy acids with the provision that such hydroxy acid or 
mixture of hydroxy acids is present at a concentration no greater than 7% 
by weight. 
As used herein, a "non-hydroxy acid product" means a topical skin care 
product for tightening and firming the skin that does not contain an 
effective amount of a hydroxy acid. 
As used herein, "effective amount" means an amount of a hydroxy acid or 
mixture thereof sufficient to reduce the signs of aging in human skin and 
to smooth rough and/or dry skin when used according to the reading of the 
present disclosure. A person of ordinary skill in the art can determine 
such effective amount for any particular hydroxy acid or mixture of 
hydroxy acids without undue experimentation by applying the guidelines set 
forth herein. An effective amount of a hydroxy acid product or a 
non-hydroxy acid product is an amount that can be rubbed into the skin 
within a few minutes. 
The hydroxy acid product and non-hydroxy acid product can be formulated as 
a solution, gel, lotion, cream, ointment, or other cosmetically acceptable 
form according to principles well known in the art. 
The present invention is a cell renewal stimulation process that preserves 
skin improvements that are realized through treatments with hydroxy acid 
products. The invention provides a method for preserving the skin 
improvements made during hydroxy acid treatment when the hydroxy acid 
products are discontinued to provide a rest period for the skin. The 
hydroxy acid products are for reducing signs of aging in human skin and, 
if the products are used in accordance with the principles of the present 
invention, the benefits to the skin that are realized during hydroxy acid 
treatment periods will not be lost during periods when the hydroxy acid 
treatment is discontinued for the skin buffering system to rejuvenate. 
The method of the present invention is preferably preceded by cleaning the 
skin to be treated in the method. Usually, the skin to be treated is on 
the neck and face, but not the eyelids. Cleaning the skin includes 
performing personal hygiene techniques that are common to the ordinary 
person. 
After proper cleansing of the treatment skin, a hydroxy acid product having 
at most a hydroxy acid concentration of approximately 7.0% (preferably a 
maximum of 5.0% for the face and neck) and having a pH range of between 3 
and 4 will be topically applied to the skin. This hydroxy acid product 
causes an increase in exfoliation of the skin by influencing a basal cell 
renewal rate and loosening intercellular bonds of keratinocytes. The next 
step in the method is topically applying to the skin a non-hydroxy acid 
product having a mixture of botanical extracts for tightening and firming 
the skin. The botanical extracts commonly include Hydrocotyl Extract, 
Coneflower Extract, water, emulsifiers, preservatives, and fragrance. 
The emulsion systems could have numerous ingredient variations. The 
following examples demonstrate embodiments of the emulsion systems of the 
present invention. 
______________________________________ 
Ingredients % (W/W) 
______________________________________ 
Example 1 
Mineral Oil 15.0 
Oleth-5 9.0 
DEA Oleth-3 Phosphate 6.0 
Water 50.0 
Acetamide MEA (and) Lactamide MEA 
1.0 
Propylene Glycol 12.0 
Glycerin 7.0 
Example 2 
Water 86.0 
Emulsifying Wax NF 6.0 
Behentrimonium Methosulfate 
3.0 
(and) Cetearyl Alcohol 
Mineral Oil 4.0 
Preservative 1.0 
Example 3 
Water 85.0 
Stearic Acid 1.8 
Propylene Glycol Stearate S.E. 
2.5 
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 
2.5 
Butylene Glycol 2.0 
Diisopropyl Adipate 2.0 
Ethoxydiglycol 3.0 
Preservative 1.2 
______________________________________ 
In addition to the above examples, the Merck Index contains numerous 
combinations of substances that could be used in the method of this 
invention. The Merck Index is an encyclopedia of chemicals, drugs, and 
biologicals. Similar information can also be found in the "Merck Manual" 
which is available online on the Internet. 
The prior two steps (following the optional cleansing of the skin) are 
repeated for approximately 4 to 6 weeks and then only the step of applying 
the non-hydroxy acid product is repeated for approximately another 4 to 6 
weeks. This second 4 to 6 weeks allows the skin to rest from treatment 
with the hydroxy acid product while a buffering system in the skin returns 
to normal. The process is advantageous because the improvements in the 
skin that are realized through treatment with the hydroxy acid product are 
not lost during the rest period. 
As understood by those skilled in the art, the skin has a buffering system 
that gradually adjusts to the assaults through applications of the hydroxy 
acid product. Eventually, any beneficial effect that the acids have on 
skin physiology is nullified because the buffering system will become 
strong enough to withstand the assault from the hydroxy acids and the 
beneficial cell renewal stimulation will cease. Although, initially, the 
hydroxy acid treatment causes improvements in the skin, the improvements 
will eventually cease and the hydroxy acid treatment must be discontinued 
so that the buffering system can return to normal and treatment with the 
hydroxy acids will again produce improvements in the skin. 
When treatment with the hydroxy acids is discontinued, the treatment with 
the non-hydroxy acid product is continued to preserve the improvements in 
the skin that were realized through hydroxy acid treatment. This "only 
non-hydroxy treatment" is continued for approximately four weeks until the 
buffering system returns to normal. When the buffering system returns to 
normal, continued treatment with both the hydroxy acid product and the 
non-hydroxy acid product will again be beneficial. This method of 
treatment with both the hydroxy acid product and the non-hydroxy acid 
product is an advantage over the prior art because the method solves the 
problem of how to preserve skin improvements during the skin rest period. 
In a preferred embodiment, the hydroxy acid product and the non-hydroxy 
acid product are topically applied to the skin twice daily; typically, the 
morning and the evening. The hydroxy acid product applied in the morning 
may optionally have a sun screen component added and the hydroxy acid 
product applied in the evening need not have the sun screen component 
added. The order of application of the hydroxy acid product and the 
non-hydroxy acid product is irrelevant to obtaining the beneficial results 
of the treatment. 
Preferably, the complete hydroxy acid product is formulated with a mixture 
of water emulsifiers, fragrance, preservatives, emollients, thickening 
agents, and hydroxy acid or mixture of hydroxy acids. In one preferred 
embodiment, a hydroxy acid product is formulated with a maximum of 4.8% 
lactic acid and approximately 0.2% salicylic acid. The lactic acid and the 
salicylic acid combine to form the hydroxy acid concentration of 5.0%, 
which is preferred for treatment of the face and neck. Another preferred 
embodiment of the hydroxy acid product is formulated with a mixture of 
emulsifiers, fragrance, preservatives, emollients, approximately 5.8% 
lactic acid, approximately 1.0% citric acid, and approximately 0.2% 
salicylic acid to form a 7.0% hydroxy acid product; the 7.0% hydroxy acid 
concentration resulting from the mixture of lactic acid, citric acid, and 
salicylic acid. This latter formulation to be used for rough and/or dry 
skin below the neck, e.g., elbows, knees, and heels. 
The non-hydroxy acid product is preferably formulated with a mixture of 
botanical extracts proven to tighten and firm the skin by helping to 
increase collagen and elastin formation through fibroblast stimulation. A 
preferred embodiment of non-hydroxy acid product comprises a mixture of 
botanical extracts including Hydrocotyl Extract, Coneflower Extract, 
water, emulsifiers, preservatives, astringents, thickening agents, and 
fragrance. The functional ingredients of the botanical mixture are (a) the 
Hydrocotyl Extract, which is also known as Gotu Kola, Centella Asiatica 
and Asiatic Acid and (b) the Coneflower Extract, which is also known by 
the Latin name of Echinacea Extract. The remainder of the ingredients in 
the botanical extract consists primarily of water, emulsifiers, 
preservatives, and fragrance. 
The above method can be repeated indeterminately while the skin condition 
improves and thereafter while the skin condition remains stable. The 
method can also be used specifically for reducing wrinkle depth in the 
treatment skin. 
An alternative embodiment of the present invention is a method for 
smoothing rough and/or dry skin. The method includes topically applying a 
7.0% hydroxy acid product to skin below the neck, e.g., elbows, knees, 
heels. 
The hydroxy acid product is applied by rubbing a topical product into the 
skin with the finger tips. Enough product should be used to completely 
cover the treatment area of the skin and the product should be rubbed onto 
the skin until the skin has completely absorbed the topical product. 
Preferrably, this process is completed twice daily with each application 
being at least four hours apart. 
It is to be understood that the above-described arrangements are only 
illustrative of the application of the principles of the present 
invention. Numerous modifications and alternative arrangements may be 
devised by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and 
scope of the present invention and the appended claims are intended to 
cover such modifications and arrangements.