Novel active agent, composition containing it and use in the cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical field or on woven or nonwoven supports

Composition, characterized in that it comprises, as active ingredient, at least one compound of formula (I): 1 or its salts, in which R 1 represents the characterizing chain of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 2 represents the characterizing chain of an amino acid and m is between 1 and 5, and at least one compound of formula (II): ZO—(CH 2 ) 3 —NH—C(&boxH;O)—CH(OH)—C(CH 3 ) 2 —CH 2 —OH  (II) in which Z represents a hydrogen atom, or a radical derived from the phosphorus of formula: P(R 3 O)(OM)(&boxH;O)— in which OM represents a free or salified OH radical, and R 3 is a radical derived from alkoxylated polysiloxanes. Use of the said composition for the preparation of cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical compositions, or on woven or nonwoven supports. Compositions thus prepared.

EXAMPLE 1 
 Preparation of a Composition According to the Invention and Demonstration of its Properties A) Preparation A composition (A) according to the invention is prepared by mixing, with stirring, 75 grams of PROTEOL™ SAV 50, which is a mixture at about between 30% and 40% by weight of active substance, of N-cocoylamino acids with 25 grams of PECOSIL™ SPP 50, consisting at 100% of potassium dimethicone polyol panthenyl phosphate. B) Demonstration of the Human Leukocyte Elastase Inhibiting Properties of the Composition According to the Invention a) Principle of the Test Human leukocyte elastase (HLE) is involved in a large number of inflammatory pathological conditions. This enzyme is in particular capable of degrading many macromolecules such as fibrous elastin, some types of collagen, proteoglycans and glycoproteins. For this reason, HLE constitutes one of the links in the chain of reactions accompanying the inflammatory phenomenon. The blocking of this enzyme by an “anti-elastase” effect therefore makes it possible to prevent the degradation of the abovementioned molecules and therefore to inhibit the inflammatory process. The “anti-elastase” properties of a given product can be demonstrated by a test in vitro using a substance which is degraded by HLE while becoming coloured, in which the variations in colour are determined by spectrophotometry. The substance used in the present test is N-methoxysuccinyl-alanine-proline-valine-para-nitroanilide, a normally colourless substance which releases, upon hydrolysis by HLE, para-nitroanilide, whose kinetics of appearance is monitored by spectrophotometry at 410 nm. The reaction is carried out in a spectrophotometer thermostated at 25° C., equipped with a sample changer. All the kinetics are performed at least three times, the mean and the standard deviation then being calculated for the three values obtained. The presence of a molecule with “anti-elastase” activity results in limiting of the appearance of the coloured product and this effect is calculated with respect to a standard curve obtained in the absence of the said molecule. There is thus a correlation between the percentage inhibition of the appearance of the coloured product by the test compound and the percentage inhibition of HLE. The percentage inhibition thus calculated is also representative of the soothing activity of the test compound. b) Trial The following aqueous solutions are prepared: Solution 1: aqueous solution containing 2.5% active substance, PECOSIL™ SPP 50: Solution 2: aqueous solution containing 0.015% active substance, PROTEOL™ SAV 50S; Solution 3: aqueous solution containing 2.5% active substance, PECOSIL™ SPP 50 and containing 0.015% active substance, PROTEOL SAV 50S. The percentage inhibition of the appearance of para-nitroanilide is measured for each of these three solutions using a spectrophotometer at 410 nm according to the protocol described in the preceding paragraph. The results are presented in the following table: 2 % inhibition Solution 1 30% Solution 2 36% Solution 3 89% These results show that at concentrations for which PROTEOL™ SAV 50S (solution 2) and PECOSIL™ SPP 50 (solution 1) have a limited activity (36% and 30%), the combination of the two products unexpectedly exhibits a higher activity (89% inhibition). C) Demonstration of the Peroxide Formation Inhibiting Properties of the Composition According to the Invention a) Principle of the Study “Ex Vivo” The protective effect of composition (A) is evaluated by determining the amount of peroxides present at the surface of locks of hair subjected to UVA-type ultraviolet radiation at a power of 25 Joule/cm 2 , the composition (A) having been applied before irradiation or after irradiation. The lipid peroxides are assayed by analysing the fluorescence induced by the oxidation of the dichlorofluorescein which they cause. The amount of peroxides present at the surface of the hair is expressed in FU units per mg of hair. b) Trial This study is carried out with 40 locks of hair taken from healthy volunteers, previously made lipid-free in ethanol at 70%, and then rinsed. They are distributed into four batches of 10 locks called batches A, B, C and D. The batches of locks are subjected to the following treatments: The locks of batch A are soaked in water for 10 minutes and then dried in open air for 30 minutes. The locks of batch B are soaked in water for 10 minutes, dried in open air for 30 minutes and then placed in a VILBER LOURMAT™ irradiation device and subjected to UVA radiation of 25 Joule/cm 2 . The locks of batch C are soaked in an aqueous solution containing 1% by weight of composition (A) for 10 minutes, dried in open air for 30 minutes and then placed in a VILBER LOURMAT™ irradiation device and subjected to UVA radiation of 25 Joule/cm 2 . The locks of batch D are soaked in water for 10 minutes, dried in open air for 30 minutes, placed in a VILBER LOURMAT™ irradiation device and subjected to UVA radiation of 25 Joule/cm 2 and then they are soaked in an aqueous solution containing 1% by weight of composition (A) for 10 minutes and dried in the open air for 30 minutes. The peroxides are assayed 24 hours after the irradiation. All the locks are rinsed and then weighed and brought into contact with dichlorofluorescein. The fluorescence is measured with Fluoroskan™. It is then weighted relative to the mass of hair. The results are presented in the following table: 3 Batch A Batch B Batch C Batch D Amount of lipid 354 672 535 447 peroxides (in FU/mg of hair) Relative amount 52.7 100 79.6 66.5 (base 100 &equals; batch B) These results demonstrate the protective and restorative actions of composition (A) in relation to the action of the UVA-type ultraviolet rays. D) Demonstration of the Anti-Free-Radical Properties of the Composition According to the Invention a) Principle of the Study The determination of the anti-free-radical effect is based on the capacity which the molecule to be studied has to inhibit or reduce the rate of reduction of cytochrome C, when it is added to the reaction medium. The superoxide anion is formed by the action of xanthine oxidase on xanthine. It induces, in the absence of a molecule capable of capturing it, the reduction of cytochrome C. The appearance of reduced cytochrome C is monitored in a spectrophotometer at 550 nm, in the presence (Trial) and in the absence (Control) of anti-free-radical molecules. b) Trial The study consists in comparing the anti-free radical activity of composition (A) with that of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and that of panthenol or D(&plus;)-2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxypropyl)-3,3-dimethylbutanamide, which is a compound commonly used for protecting the hair. The reaction is carried out in a spectrophotometer thermostated at 25° C. and provided with a sample changer. All the kinetics are determined at least three times; the mean and the standard deviation are calculated for the three values obtained. A percentage inhibition of the rate of appearance of the coloured product (corresponding to the quantity of free superoxide anion) is therefore calculated for each active agent tested. The calculation is performed relative to the rate of appearance of the coloured product in the control (without active agent). The percentage inhibition of the appearance of the coloured product by the active agent therefore corresponds to the percentage inhibition of the superoxide anion. The results are presented in the following table: 4 % anti-free radical Products Concentrations tested inhibition Vitamin C 0.46% (as active 94% substance) Panthenol 0.46% (as active 0% substance) Composition (A) 0.46% (as active 94% substance) These results demonstrate an anti-free radical activity of composition (A) of the same order as that of vitamin C, unlike that which is nonexistent for panthenol. E) Demonstration of the Cell Division Stimulating Effect of the Composition According to the Invention a) Principle of the Study “in Vitro” The effect of the active agents on cell division is measured by a fluorimetric assay of the content of DNA in normal human keratinocytes subjected to a high thermal stress (20 minutes at 50° C.). The quantity of DNA present in the cells determines their capacity to divide. The cells are used at 60% confluence. They are incubated for 24 hours in the presence of the active agents. Cell division is determined by assaying the quantity of DNA present per well. b) Trial Four samples A, B, C and D, of a culture normal human keratinocytes, are subjected to the following respective treatments: Sample A: cells not treated and left at room temperature. Sample B: cells not treated and heated at 50° C. for 20 minutes. Sample C: cells left incubated for 24 hours with composition (A) (concentration: 4.75×10 −6 % by weight of active substance) and heated at 50° C. for 20 minutes. Sample D: cells left incubated for 24 hours with panthenol (concentration: 12.5×10 −6 % by weight of active substance) and heated at 50° C. for 20 minutes. The DNA in each of the samples is then assayed. The results, expressed in &mgr;g/well, are presented in the following table: 5 Sample A Sample B Sample C Sample D Cell division 4.5 3.7 5.7 4.3 (in &mgr;g/well) Relative level 116.2 100 154.1 116.2 (base 100: batch B) These results demonstrate the capacity of composition (A) to stimulate cell division so as to surpass the harmful effects of heat, whereas panthenol only compensates for these effects. F) Demonstration of the Hair Root Protein Metabolism Protecting Effect of the Composition According to the Invention a) Principle of the Study “in Vitro” The effect of the protection of the metabolism of proteins is determined by calorimetric assay of the protein content of the cells (expressed in &mgr;g/ml) after incubating for 24 hours in the presence of the active agents. The cells are used at 60% confluence. b) Trial Five samples E, F, G. H and I, of a culture normal human keratinocytes, are left incubated for 24 hours in the presence or otherwise of one of the following solutions 1, 2 or 3: Solution 1: aqueous solution containing 1.25×10 −5 % as active substance, of PECOSIL™ SPP 50; Solution 2: aqueous solution containing 1.125×10 −5 % as active substance, of PROTEOL™ SAV SOS; Solution 3: aqueous solution containing 1.25×10 −5 % as active substance, of PECOSIL™ SPP 50 and containing 1.125×10 −5 % as active substance, of PROTEOL™ SAV 50S. They are then subjected or otherwise to a temperature of 50° C. for 20 minutes: Sample A: cells not treated and left at room temperature. Sample F: cells not treated and heated to 50° C. Sample G: cells treated with solution 1 and heated to 50° C. Sample H: cells treated with solution 2 and heated to 50° C. Sample I: cells treated with solution 3 and heated to 50° C. The DNA in each of the samples is finally assayed. The results, expressed in &mgr;g/ml, are presented in the following table: 6 Sample E F G H I Level of cellular 7.7 5.6 5.7 8.2 10.5 proteins in &mgr;g/ml Relative level 138 100 102 146 188 (base 100: sample F These results demonstrate the capacity of composition (A) to stimulate protein metabolism in the keratinocytes in order to counteract the negative effects of heat, whereas the compounds of formula (II) alone are inactive and the compounds of formula (I) alone are moderately active. G) Demonstration of the Hair Protein Degradation Inhibiting Effect of the Composition According to the Invention a) Principle of the Study “Ex Vivo” The protective effect and the preventive action of composition (A) are evaluated by measuring the intrinsic fluorescence of the tryptophan of the keratin of locks stressed either by ultraviolet radiation or by heat. Protein degradation is characterized by a reduction in the intrinsic natural fluorescence of the tryptophan. b) Trial This study is carried out with 40 locks of hair taken from healthy volunteers, previously made fat-free in ethanol at 70%, and then rinsed. They are divided into five batches of 10 locks, called batches J, K, L, M and N, which are treated as follows: The locks of batch J are soaked in water for 10 minutes, dried in open air for 30 minutes (untreated batch does not suffer any stress). The locks of batch K are soaked in water for 10 minutes, dried in open air for 30 minutes and then placed in a VILBER LOURMAT™ irradiation device and subjected to UVA radiation of 25 Joule/cm 2 . The locks of batch L are soaked in water for 10 minutes, dried in open air for 30 minutes and they are then subjected to an air stream at 90° C. for 1 hour and they are then left at room temperature for 15 minutes. The locks of batch M are soaked in an aqueous solution containing 1% by weight of composition (A) for 10 minutes, dried in open air for 30 minutes and then placed in a VILBER LOURMAT™ irradiation device and subjected to UVA radiation of 25 Joule/cm 2 . The locks of batch N are soaked in an aqueous solution containing 1% by weight of composition (A) for 10 minutes, dried in open air for 30 minutes and they are then subjected to an air stream at 90° C. for 1 hour and they are then left at room temperature for 15 minutes. The fluorescence intensity is measured by means of a CD60 DESAGA™ spectrophotrometer. The fluorescence is acquired on a fixed and determined hair surface (350 mm 2 ) and in the longitudinal direction (equivalent to the direction of the root towards the tip). The fluorescence intensity value is determined in arbitrary units expressed relative to the mass of hair. The results, expressed as degradation of intrinsic fluorescence of the tryptophan per gram of hair, relative to the untreated and unstressed (&Dgr;&equals;0) batch J, are presented in the following table: 7 Batch Batch Batch Batch Batch J K L M N &Dgr; (in AU/g) 0 −193 −163 −73 −107 Relative level of — 100 — 38 — degradation (base 100: batch K) Relative level of — — 100 — 66 degradation (base 100: batch L) These results demonstrate the capacity of composition (A) to slow down the degradation of the keratin in hair subjected to a thermal stress or a photochemical stress. H) Demonstration of the Inhibitory Effect of the Composition According to the Invention on the Formation of Flakes at the Surface of the Hair a) Principle of the Study “Ex Vivo” The capacity of an aqueous solution containing 3% by weight of composition (A), called solution 4, to prevent the formation of flakes on the surface of the hair was tested on damaged hair subjected to thermal stress. This property is demonstrated by observing the surface of treated and untreated hair by scanning electron microscopy. b) Trial Hair is taken from healthy volunteers. 5 hair strands from each volunteer are soaked for 10 minutes either in solution 4 or in water (placebo). All the hair strands are dried in open air and they are then subjected to an air stream at 90° C. for 1 hour and then left at room temperature for 15 minutes and observed by scanning electron microscopy and by taking photographs. FIGS. 1 and 2 demonstrate the protective effect of the composition of the invention in relation to the formation of flakes at the surface of the hair. The following examples illustrate the use of composition (A) for preparing cosmetic formulations. 
 EXAMPLE 2 
 Thermoactive Hair Lotion Formula 8 Butylene glycol: 3.0% SIMULSOL ™ 1293: 3.0% Composition (A): 1.0% Lactic acid: QS pH &equals; 6 SEPICIDE ™ HB: 0.2% SEPICIDE ™ Cl: 0.3% Perfume: 0.3% Water: QS 100% 
 EXAMPLE 3 
 Protective and Relaxing Shampoo Formula 9 Amonyl ™ 675 SB: 5.0% Sodium lauryl ether sulphate at 28%: 35.0% Composition (A): 1.0% Capigel ™ 98: 3.0% SEPICIDE ™ HB: 0.5% SEPICIDE ™ Cl: 0.3% Sodium hydroxide: QS pH &equals; 7.2 Perfume: 0.3% Colorant (FDC blue 1/yellow 5) QS Water: QS 100% Characteristics The shampoo obtained has a green clear appearance. Its pH is approximately equal to 7.2 and its viscosity is equal to 1000 cps (BROOKFIELD™ LVT: M4 V6). 
 EXAMPLE 4 
 “Leave-on” Protector; Anti-Stress Care for Hair Formula 10 KETROL ™ T: 0.5% Composition (A): 3.0% Butylene glycol: 5.0% DC 1501: 5.0% SIMULGEL ™ EG: 4.0% SEPICIDE ™ HB: 0.5% SEPICIDE ™ Cl: 0.3% Perfume: 0.3% Water: QS 100% Characteristics The care product obtained is in the form of an opaque gel. Its pH is approximately 6.5 and its viscosity is equal to 40,000 cps (BROOKFIELD™ LVT: M4 V6) 
 EXAMPLE 5 
 Restructuring “Rinse off” Cream Mask for Stressed and Brittle Hair Formula 11 KETROL ™ T: 0.5% Composition (A): 3.0% Butylene glycol: 3.0% SIMULGEL ™ EG: 1.0% MONTANOV ™ 82: 3.0% Jojoba oil: 1.0% LANOL ™ LP: 6.0% AMONYL ™ DM: 1.0% LANOL ™ 99: 5.0% SIMULGEL ™ EG: 4.0% SEPICIDE ™ HB: 0.3% SEPICIDE ™ Cl: 0.2% Perfume: 0.2% Water: QS 100% Characteristics The mask obtained is in the form of a cream. Its pH is approximately equal to 6.2 and its viscosity is equal to 40,000 cps (BROOKFIELD™ LVT: M4 V6). The definitions of the commercial products used in the examples are the following: SIMULSOL™ 1293 is hydrogenated and ethoxylated castor oil, with an ethoxylation value equal to 40, marketed by the company SEPPIC. SEPICIDE™ HB is a preserving mixture comprising phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, marketed by the company SEPPIC. SEPICIDE™ Cl is imidazolidinylurea, marketed by the company SEPPIC. CAPIGEL™ 98 is a liquid thickener based on acrylate copolymer marketed by the company SEPPIC. AMONYL™ 675SB is a sulphobetaine marketed by the company SEPPIC. SIMULGEL™ EG is a reverse latex of copolymer (INCI name: sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer and isohexadecane and polysorbate 80) marketed by the company SEPPIC. KETROL™ T is xanthan gum marketed by the company KELCO. LANOL™ 99 is isononyl isononanoate marketed by the company SEPPIC. DC1501 is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol marketed by the company DOW CHEMICAL. MONTANOV™ 82 is an emulsifying agent based on cetearyl alcohol and cocoylglucoside.