# Osaka/South

South Osaka covers the southern wards of Osaka: Nishinari, Abeno, Ikuno, Sumiyoshi and Hirano. For the central Minami area (literally "South"), see Minami.
South Osaka is the poorest part of the city, with few top-rank attractions. However, the budget hotels that have long drawn in day laborers and itinerant workers have started to pivot towards frugal backpacker market, and while some parts of the area are seedy and rough, they are rarely if ever dangerous.

## Understand

The Kamagasaki (釜ヶ崎) area is Japan's largest slum, with the largest homeless population in Japan, consisting mainly of low-income day labourers. The Japanese government re-named the area to Airin (あいりん) in 1966 in an attempt to sanitize its reputation, which you will see in official maps, but the local residents of the area still refer to it by its old name.

## Get in

The Nankai line from Kansai Airport to Namba passes through Nishinari Ward, while the JR line from the airport loops further inland through Abeno and Sumiyoshi.

## See

Nishinari was spared from the bombings of World War II, so the streets here are some of the oldest in Osaka, and largely retain the layout from the Edo Period. As such, the streets here tend to be very narrow and windy, and there are even a handful of stone-paved streets that survive.
* 34.612797135.4929421 Sumiyoshi Shrine (住吉大社) (access is from the Nankai line station of the same name; local trains run from Namba station in central Osaka). One of Japan's oldest Shinto shrines, with a history stretching back 1800 years. Its traditional architecture is unusual among Japan's shrines, and its park-like surroundings with the sacred bridge arching over a tranquil pond make it a restful break from the busy environment of Osaka. Free.
* 34.64404135.506162 Tobita Shinchi (飛田新地 / Red-light district) (near Dobutsuen-mae station). This is Japan's largest red-light district outside Tokyo, where ladies pose at genkan entrances Amsterdam-style to attract clientele, accompanied by an older woman (called a yarite-baba or mama-san) who serves as the pimp and collects money from customers. However, this place is arguably more interesting to walk through than its Amsterdam counterpart, and most of the brothels operate out historic buildings dating back to the Taisho era (1912-1926), giving visitors a rare glimpse into what Japanese red-light districts looked like before the prostitution ban came into effect in 1958. No photographs allowed, even in the streets! Women walking through the area will be met with stern looks from the mama-san making it clear that they are not welcome, and even foreign men have long been unwelcome, though that is gradually changing as a few of the brothels have started accepting foreign customers if they can speak Japanese. If you don't mind that, it is well worth the experience, even if you just came for the looks. (updated Nov 2023)

## Do

* Cerezo Osaka (セレッソ大阪). The local J. League soccer team plays at Nagai Stadium.
* Nagai Stadium (ヤンマースタジアム長居), 1-1 Nagaikoen Higashi-Sumiyoshi-ku (5 minutes walk from Nagai Station on the Subway Midosuji Line). Nagai Stadium is the home of the professional soccer team Cerezo Osaka.

## Eat

Tsuruhashi (鶴橋), near the train station of the same name, is home to a large Korean community and is particularly famous for its many yakiniku (Korean-style BBQ) restaurants.
Nishinari is not really known as a dining destination, but the area does have a number of hidden gems, including Okonomiyaki Chitose, one of the best-rated okonomiyaki restaurants in the city.

## Drink

Tobita Shinchi (飛田新地) near Dobutsuen-mae station is Japan's largest red-light district outside Tokyo, where ladies pose at genkan entrances Amsterdam-style to attract clientele. It's not really a tourist attraction though, and non-Japanese clients are likely to be refused point blank.
* 34.64265135.50561 Taiyoshi Hyakuban (鯛よし百番), 3-5-25 Nishinari-ku (Tobita Shinchi). Daily 17:00-23:00. Most of the "restaurants" in the area are really brothels in disguise (since prostitution is illegal in Japan), but this extravagant century-old brothel is a Tangible Cultural Property that has been turned into an actual restaurant open to the public. Specialities include hot pot dishes like sukiyaki and yosenabe. ¥5,000, reservations required.

## Sleep
### Budget

* 34.61738135.515011 For Leaves Inn Nagai (フォーリーブスイン長居), 2-6-21 Nishitanabe-cho Abeno-ku (1 minute walk from Tsurugaoka Station on JR Hanwa Line), ☏ +81 6-6695-0100. ¥3500 single.
* 34.66057135.537832 Hiro's Guesthouse, 4-9-7 Momodani Ikuno-ku (10-15 minutes walk from Tsuruhashi station), ☏ +81 6 7897-6608, hirosguesthousecontact@gmail.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Hiro's Guesthouse is in the heart of Koreatown in Osaka. It is a little far from the station, but in a nice, social neighbourhood. The open first floor of the guesthouse is very social and great to hang out and make friends at. Hiro and the others go out of their way to help and ensure you have a good time - this is more than just a place to sleep at. Dormitory ¥2500, private rooms ¥3500 per person, free Wifi and computer use.
* 34.61479135.519323 Osaka Municipal Nagai Youth Hostel (大阪市立長居ユースホステル), 1-1 Nagaikoen Higashisumiyosi-ku (5 minutes walk from Tsurugaoka Station on JR Hanwa Line), ☏ +81 6-6699-5631. ¥3000 per person per night, ¥1000 dinner, ¥500 breakfast.

### Mid-range

* 34.61219135.512794 Nagai Park Hotel (長居パークホテル), 2-13-13 Nagai Sumiyoshi-ku (2 minutes walk from Nagai Station on JR Hanwa Line), ☏ +81 6-6608-1117. Single room: ¥6500 per person per night including breakfast. Twin room: ¥6500 per person per night including breakfast.

### Splurge
## Stay safe

The ward of Nishinari, home to Japan's largest red-light district outside Tokyo Tobita Shinchi (see Drink) and its largest slum Airin/Kamagasaki, has an exaggerated reputation of being the most dangerous place in Japan. While definitely down-at-heel, street crime is virtually unknown.
The brothels in Tobita Shinchi are reputed to be run by the yakuza, and the no photography rule is strictly enforced even in the street. Violation of this rule could lead to you being assaulted by the mama-san and your camera smashed.