# Si Phan Don

Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands, Lao: ສີພັນດອນ) is a group of islands in the Mekong River in Southern Laos.

## Islands

While si phan don literally means "four thousand islands", there are in fact only a few hundred, and half of them are submerged when the Mekong is in flood. The four largest islands are:
* Don Det - the main tourist island, catering to backpackers, with the most tourist infrastructure of the three islands
* Don Khon - another tourist destination, slightly cheaper than Don Det, with relics from the early French colonisation of the area
* Don Khong - the largest island, not a tourist destination but worth visiting to experience authentic Laotian life on the Mekong
* Don Som - the second largest island, also not a tourist destination but may be of interest to travellers seeking authenticity

## Understand

The Four Thousand Islands have three main destinations for travellers: Don Khong (ດອນໂຂງ) is the biggest, but there's nothing great to do there. Most people head to Don Det (ດອນເດດ) or Don Khon/Don Khone (ດອນຄອນ), where accommodation is cheaper, you can walk to one of the big Mekong-Falls by yourself, and biking and walking and swimming in the river is just the same as in Don Khong.
Drugs such as marijuana and mushrooms are available in Don Det and are tolerated by some of the patio restaurants by the river. But though it is not uncommon to see people passing joints around at some restaurants, do not just assume that marijuana is allowed anywhere.

## Get in
### From Southern Laos

Take a bus going down Rte 13 towards the Cambodian Border, for example from Pakse to Ban Nakasang, and take the river ferry at Ban Nakasang that crosses over to Don Khong and Don Det. A "jumbo" from Pakse to Ban Nakasang costs 70,000 kip, and a ferry from Ban Nakasang to Don Det is 20,000 kip per person if there are multiple people going, or 40,000 kip for just a single ticket. In comparison, joint tickets including a minibus ride from Pakse to Ban Nakasang and a ferry ticket to Don Det cost 65,000 kip.

### From Cambodia

Take a van from Kratie (US$15) or Stung Treng (US$12) which includes the boat trip to Don Det or Don Khong. Some guesthouses in Kratie may try to sell you the ticket for US$50. The border crossing is in the middle of forest and there is pretty much nothing else there than a few customs officials and a bad road on the Lao side. So you definitely want to get a ride all the way to Four Thousand Islands. You may not find any transportation at the border and if you do it's probably a rip-off.
There is a bus from Phnom Penh that leaves in the morning to Don Det. It takes around 7 hours to get there with minimal stops on the VIP bus (once in Kratie and once to stop for lunch). Near the Lao border, an employee of the bus will ask for passports and the fee for the Laos visa. No need to step out of the bus to immigration, the worker takes care of everything. Don Det is another 30 min away. Most get it for US$30-35, but citizens of a few countries have to pay more. Oddly for Canadians it is US$42.
You can arrive also by boat from Stung Treng. The boats leave in the morning. Many tourists have been made to pay around US$50 after the border for transportation to Four Thousand Islands. So again it's best to book the trip all the way to your destination if possible.
Be careful: Travel agents will give you cash to pay for the boat ride from Ban Nakasang to Don Det. They might only give you as little as 5,000 kip. The fare is 20,000 kip each (2023).

## Get around

It's mostly people power. The islands are small enough that you can walk, although to get to some of the more far-flung destinations a bicycle will be nice. They can be rented everywhere. If you're feeling super-lazy, you might convince a local to take you on the back of their bike for a small fee. There is one British man with a Lao wife and son who rents a 100cc motorbike for 90,000 kip (2012) for 24 hours, passport required. The road in Don Det is very rutted and muddy in some areas so one should take caution, either on a bike or motorbike.

## See

A beautiful set of islands, set against a lazy and winding section of the Mekong. Be sure to check out the largest waterfall in Southeast Asia, and have conversations with the friendly locals. Outside of the tourist town, one can get a glimpse of local people, rice farms and plenty of farm animals, including lots of cows and chickens as well as some ducks, pigs, and water buffalo. There are also several temples about of average quality, however, it is interesting to get away from the tourists to see the locals and their life. Be sure to take off your shoes, just as in the rest of Laos.
The last river dolphin in Laos died in 2022, but a small community still survives over the border in Kratie.

## Do

There isn't much to do in Si Phan Don, but that's the point. The islands are laid back, with small huts mixing in with guest houses along the banks of the Mekong. But, if you get a bit restless, try these:
* Rent a bike for about US$1.50 and pedal around the two main islands.
* Li Phi Falls (entrance fee) are easily accessible on Don Khon.
* Khon Phapheng Falls (30,000 kip), the largest waterfalls in Southeast Asia, are accessible by tuk-tuk from Ban Nakasang on the mainland.
* Take a boat tour around the area. These start at around US$5, or just ask a local boatman if you want to go somewhere specific.
* Some visitors take candles, guitars and drums to the north beach (boat landing) on Don Det for beach parties. These parties are considered annoying by the authorities, locals and other visitors. Your guesthouse may offer alternative sunset parties at more remote locations reached by boat.

## Buy

Not too much. Stock up in Pakse or if you forgot something, look around in Ban Nakasang before boarding the boat to the islands. That is your last chance for forgotten items or to use an ATM. There are some items for purchase on the islands, including sunscreen, and Don Det also has small markets.

## Eat

A standard menu of Laotian food and backpacker favourites (banana pancakes, garlic bread, pad thai) are on top at most places. Some try to get fancy with special pizzas and exotic smoothies. It's very hit and miss, but never terrible and the service is friendly. You'd be hard pressed to spend more than US$3 on a meal here.
Eat the Lao food. It is delicious and everything is handmade. Keep in mind the food will be spicy unless you say otherwise. Try to avoid "Western" food because the quality will be lower. Don't eat the pizza, happy or not.

## Drink

Beerlao on the Mekong. Available about every 200 m on the island, big bottles for 10,000 kip. Head toward the west part of the island (where there are only a few guesthouses) for a great view of the sunset. Fruit shakes are on every menu. About 15,000 kip (February 2024).
The Don Det community, like most of Laos, closes down at around 23:00. There is usually one place that might stay rocking for another hour or so.

## Sleep

Guesthouses galore, at prices that are dirt cheap even by Southeast Asian standards. Most of these guesthouses have bungalows by the river, and include a mosquito net, double bed and porch. Toilets and showers are mostly shared. There's electricity, though it may go out occasionally. Most options cost about 50,000 kip per night. Up-scale bungalows are available with hot water showers and air-conditioning, which of course cost much more.
Don Det: Select from dozens of options that are more or less the same - however, there might be some differences with things such as mattresses and condition of mosquito nets.

## Go next
### Cambodia

Those going to Cambodia can buy bus tickets on all of the islands. The prices might seem a bit expensive, but this is due to the fact that travelling in Cambodia is more expensive than in Laos.
There are two companies that offer transport to Siem Reap, Kratie, or Phnom Penh. The international bus from Pakse to Phnom Penh will take you straight to its destination, without much trouble (departure at Ban Nakasang around 09:45, arrival at 19:30 depending on the weather, costs about US$14), for Siem Reap you change into a less comfortable looking bus somewhere 70 km north of Phnom Penh (arrival around 21:30). The other company, whose tickets are sold everywhere in all the hostels and restaurants on Don Det, takes you with a small van or bus to the border, where you change, after another hour or two waiting in the heat, to another bus or minivan. Later on, for Siem Reap switch again into bus or van. Those tourists getting stuffed in the minivan at the border had to sit later on in the aisle of the bus on plastic chairs or had to just stand for half an hour. Prices for this trip are generally US$2 less when booking from the border, but definitely not worth the waiting, changing and discomfort. Make sure not to take the regular tourist bus. If you don't find this international bus, better choose going back to Pakse and take a bus from there. Best is probably to take a flight from Pakse.
Ticket price should include the fare of the boat as well. Don't be tempted to buy a ticket going only to the border since it is very hard to get a ride from there.
Buses leave early every morning from across the river. It's about an hour to the border, but that's only the first stage in what's sure to be a long day of travel. After paying (all in cash) a US$1 "stamp tax" on the Laotian side and on the Cambodian side another US$32 for the visa plus US$1 for "processing" (and another US$2 if you forgot a photo). There is also a US$2 health check which is a hassle. Some people are able to skip this as there is no check later on. There is usually a "VIP" (tourist-minibus) leaving around noon at the border, but better have that organised before as the border is not much more than a street, two barriers and some bored guards in the middle of the jungle. If you want to break your travel, consider stopping at Kratie, which is a nice little city on the Mekong where you can see the Irrawaddy Dolphin (which incidentally went extinct on the Laos side of the border in 2022.)
If you really want to take the bus to Cambodia then make sure to split the trip to Siem Reap and take a rest in Kratie where you will arrive in the early evening. After Kratie the ride in the regular buses gets worse as they make several stops in the middle of nowhere and drinks and food are very expensive at those stops. You will be switching buses again at approximately 22:00 after waiting for another hour. Then you get stuffed again into an overfilled bus where there will be no space left. You will arrive at Siem Reap between 01:00-02:00, which makes a travel time of 18 hours and not 12 as claimed on the posters.
There are three main differences between taking a minivan and a bus to Cambodia. Bus companies such as VET Air Bus require you to book three days in advance. No such restriction exists for the minivans. The bus goes through the border formalities with you, saving you the 500m walk between the Laos and Cambodian offices. And finally, the bus is more comfortable.
Either way, time has little meaning here so leaving the dock at 11:00 means that one goes about 11:30 or when the next boat is full. Some of the boats are better than others, the worst being long, low canoes. Upon reaching the "mainland", one has to wait with a group of other foreigners for transportation going their way, with the boss squeezing as many people as he possibly can. Leaving Si Phan Don requires patience and a cool head. Give yourself plenty of time.

### Pakse and Champasak

Tickets sold on the island, departures are daily at 11:00, are 60,000 kip including both bus and boat.