# Asti

Asti is the capital of the province of Asti, one of most important wine areas in Italy, and lends its name to some illustrious wines, such as Moscato d'Asti. Asti is the main commercial centre of Piedmont's wine area, but still retains a friendly, small town feel and is a good base for touring Piedmont.

## Understand

The city dates to pre-Roman times and a few ruins remain. In the 10th-13th centuries, Asti rose economically and politically to become one of the most powerful independent cities in Western Italy, with extensive trading rights granted by the Holy Roman Empire. The old medieval town still maintains many of the historic palaces and towers built by the rich families -Asti was known as the "city of 100 towers" (in fact there were 120 of which about 15 survive). Eventually power struggles between Turin and Milan led to Asti's demise as an independent city and the city changed hands frequently over a 300-year period until it fell under control of the House of Savoy in 1575, regaining some of its former glory. The city is divided into the new Baroque (1700s) town centred around the Piazza Alfieri named after one of Italy's most famous poets who was born in Asti and the medieval town centred on the Piazza San Secondo with the Romanesque San Secondo Church and Crypt.
Asti is 40 minutes drive from Turin and one hour from Milan.

### Office of Tourism

* 44.89918.20721 Asti Turismo, Piazza Alfieri 34, ☏ +39 0141 530 357, fax: +39 0141 538 200, info@astiturismo.it.

## Get in
### By plane

Turin Caselle (one hour), Genoa Cristoforo Colombo (one hour), Milan Malpensa or Linate (one and half hours). Better to rent a car, (useful for touring around Asti area) or take shuttle to main station and train to Asti.

### By car

Asti is on the A21 Torino-Piacenza autostrada; other (scenic) routes are via SS231 from Ventimiglia via Cuneo, Bra and Alba; via SS457 from Casale Monferrato (and Vercelli); via SS458 from Ivrea and Chivasso;
Asti can be reached from the A21 Turin - Piacenza motorway, Asti Est, Asti Ovest and Villanova exits. For those coming from Milan, take the A7 up to Tortona, then take the A21 towards Asti-Turin. For those arriving from Genoa, you can take the A26 from Voltri to Alessandria and then the A21. Coming from Cuneo or Alba, the section of the A33 motorway is open.
- From Milan: A7 motorway to Tortona; connection with the A21 motorway towards Turin with the Asti Est exit.
- From Bologna: From the A14 Adriatica Motorway continue on the A1 Autostrada del Sole, near Piacenza continue on the A21 Motorway towards Turin with the Asti Est exit.
- From Turin: A21 motorway towards Asti and exit at Asti Ovest.
- From Genoa: From the A7 motorway continue on the A21 motorway with the Asti Est exit.
- From Aosta: A5 Aosta - Turin motorway, continue on the A21 motorway with the Asti Ovest exit.
- From Alessandria: State Road 10 or Highway A21, direction Turin, with the Asti Est exit.

### By train

Asti is a principal station on the main Turin to Rome line. Frequent trains from Turin (30 minutes) or Genoa (one hour). From Milan you need to change in Alessandria or Voghera.

## Get around

Central Asti is quite compact and there is a large and reasonably well preserved historical centre which is easy to walk around. The train station is close to the centre and there are 2 large and convenient parking spaces in the centre (except on market days) at Piazza Alfieri and Campo del Palio. Also parking in the old city at Piazza Roma and Piazza Catena, but be cautious of restricted streets.

## See

There are several medieval churches in Asti, the oldest dating back to the 11th century. Most are open to visitors during normal hours, including:
* 44.89938.205091 Collegiata di San Secondo, Piazza San Secondo (in the old market piazza). Built on the site of Asti’s patron saint’s martyrdom (119 AD), rebuilt in the 13th century, and houses the bones of the sacred saint of Asti in the crypt and the Palio d’Asti banners in a chapel.
* 44.90078.197882 Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, Piazza Cattedrale. Built in the 14th century, one of Piedmont’s most important Gothic churches.
* 44.9008878.2041223 Torre Troyana, Piazza Medici. 13th-century Asti was known as the “city of 100 towers” – in fact there were 120 of these fortified family bolt-holes, of which about 12 still survive. This tower is open to visitors on weekends to walk up the summit. Closed in winter months from November to March.
* 44.8985198.1958894 Torre Rossa, end of Corso Alfieri. Oldest surviving tower dating back to Roman era (1st century), formerly part of the old gate.
* 44.8995838.2048615 Palazzo Civico, Piazza San Secondo. An old palace, used as the mayor's office and other Asti commune offices. Visitors allowed on the first floor halls.
* 44.9004178.1965286 Historical Archives (Palazzo Mazzola), Via Cardinal Massaia, opposite Cathedral. It houses a large collection of historical documents and maps, including a room dedicated to Palio di Asti. Open weekdays in normal hours, €2.50 admission.
* 44.899928.205867 Teatro Alfieri, Via Teatro Alfieri. Asti’s theatre, built in 1860, resembles an opera house and was renovated in 2002. Often if someone is there they will let you wander around.

### Museums

* 44.8994448.1998618 Museum and Crypt of Sant’Anastasio, Corso Alfieri 365. Mondays closed. 8th-century. Admission €2.50. (updated Aug 2019)
* 44.9026398.2133339 Battistero di San Pietro (Baptistery of Saint Peter), Piazza 1º Maggio. Closed Monday. Romanesque church and museum complex (palaeontological and archaeological) built in the 12th century, modelled on Church of Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, with cloisters, tower and pilgrims hospice. €2.50. (updated Aug 2019)
* 44.8994568.20265110 Synagogue and Jewish museum, Via Ottolenghi. Visit by appointment only.
* 44.9135288.20986111 Scassa Tapestry Workshop and Museum, Via dell'Arazzeria. Scassa specializes in making tapestries based on famous paintings. Visits are free by appointment.

## Do

* 44.98.2072221 Palio di Asti. This historic bareback horse race is the oldest one of its type in Italy originating in 1273, when the Astigiani staged a race beneath the walls of the enemy city of Alba causing great devastation to their vineyards. Wars between Asti and Alba have long since ceased, although to this day there is intense rivalry between the cities, and the Palio horse race is now held every 1st Sunday in September. All the ancient borgo (boroughs) of Asti, and many nearby towns enter both a horse and a contingent for the medieval parade preceding the Palio. The parade starts at the Cathedral and winds through the historical medieval town ending up on the Palio arena on Piazza Alfieri. There are 3 heats, followed by an interlude for the flag-throwers to show their skills; then the final is raced (usually after several deliberate false starts) and the winner claims his prize - the precious banner with the picture of Asti’s patron saint, the "Palio di Asti".
* 44.89758.2088892 Festival delle Sagre. It holds every second weekend in September. Every small town and commune in Piedmont holds a “Sagre” festival celebrating their special food dish and local wines. The Asti Sagre is the “Sagre of Sagres” where some 50 or so provincial towns and communes build a thematic stand in the Campo Del Palio and for two days over the weekend hold an eating festival. Tickets are bought directly at each stand and typically cost €3-4 a plate, plus €1-2 for a glass of wine. On the Sunday morning all the participants sponsor a float depicting traditional rural themes, such as wine making, truffle hunting, distilling grappa, old threshing machines, laundry day, etc. (there’s even one depicting the local bordello). The staging area is in the Campo del Palio and the parade goes through the medieval town, pulled by antique tractors lovingly maintained for the occasion.
* 44.8991678.2002783 Douja d'Or. For 10 days between the Sagre and Palio, Asti holds the Douja D’Or (gold goblet) wine tasting competition and symposium. Every day there are taste workshops, learned discussions, wine judging, label competition, plus speciality plates from the local restaurants and music at night. Over 400 wines are available for tasting, not only Piedmontese but from all over Italy and each year a non-Italian wine region is featured.
* Palio degli Sbandieratori. Piedmont's flag-throwing teams are justly famous and every Asti Borgo and provincial town sponsors a team, who compete in the Piazza San Secondo in a night time spectacle during the Palio week. This event is not staged for tourists, its very much for locals to support their commune, and hence has a lot of character and charm.

## Buy

Asti has many smart shops in the town centre. Some good places for gifts:
* Ricambi d’Arte, Corso Alfieri 203. Linens, materials, laces, table clothes and small gift items.
* Pasticceria Giordanino, Corso Alfieri 256. Cakes, chocolates and biscuits.
* Enoteca Pompa Magna, Via Aliberti 65. Good selection of local wines and wine bar at very reasonable prices – owner speaks English.
* Gastronomia San Secondo, Corso Dante 6. Wonderful delicatessen close to Piazza Alfieri.
* Laboratorio Caseario, Via Cavour 6 (near Rainero Hotel). Asti’s best cheese shop, also a wine bar and café ideal for a light lunch.

### Markets

* Indoor Food Market, near Piazza Alfieri. Open every day except Sunday and Thursday afternoon. Bakeries, cheeses, meats, fish, etc. Good quality.
* Farmer's market, Piazza Catena, open daily in mornings except Sunday, vegetables and fruit from local small farms.
* Asti market Piazza Alfieri and Campo del Palio, a big general market twice weekly on W & Sa, clothing, shoes, haberdashery, hardware, household, etc., plus cheese, meat and bakery stands. Fruit and vegetables in the morning only.
* Fiera Carolingia, huge yearly market every May, over 1000 stalls from all over Italy.
* Antique market, in central Asti every 4th Sunday of the month.
* Truffle Fair, Cucina e Cantina, mid-November, Asti's truffle festival combined with many wine and food stalls.

## Eat

Asti has many fine restaurants, osterie and trattorie to choose from including.
* 44.89998.20551 Tacabanda, Via al Teatro 5 (next to Teatro Alfieri, downstairs basement), ☏ +39 0141 530999. Closed Monday. Good wine selection and value.
* 44.90028.20612 Gener Neuv, Via Carlo Leone Grandi, ☏ +39 0141 557270. Closed Sunday evening.. Regarded as Asti’s best restaurant (and most expensive).
* 44.898158.20423 Angolo del Beato, Vicolo Cavalleri, ☏ +39 0141 531668, info@angolodelbeato.it. Closed Sunday. Regional cuisine. Rabbit in tuna sauce, bagna cauda, Piedmontese wines.
* 44.89948.20364 Pizza Francese, Via dei Cappellai 15, ☏ +39 0141 592321. Closed Wednesday.
* 44.90088.20735 Hotel Reale, Piazza Alfieri 6, ☏ +39 0141 530240. The old hotel in the heart of town on Piazza Alfieri, good restaurant (Il Flauto Magico), wine bar and pizzeria downstairs.
* 44.89878.20456 Monna Laura, Via Cavour 30, ☏ +39 0141 594159.
* 44.90048.20247 Moro 2.0, Via Mameli 11, ☏ +39 0141 592513.
* 44.89668.20648 Tartufo d'Oro, Via Cavour 95, ☏ +39 0141 352087.
* 44.89918.19929 Tre Re, Corso Alfieri 378, ☏ +39 0141 592753.
* 44.89988.208810 Osteria del Palio, Piazza Alfieri 28, ☏ +39 0141 590401.
* 44.88668.214911 One More, Lungo Tanaro dei Pescatori 12, ☏ +39 347 537 4877.
* 44.89878.195112 Dai Toscanacci, Corso Alfieri 430, ☏ +39 349 523 8894.
* 44.89918.151913 Villa Fernanda, Località Palucco, ☏ +39 0141 212785.
* 44.89148.210514 Pizzorante Capri, Corso Savona 153, ☏ +39 0141 592570.
* 44.89918.201515 cRust, Piazza Roma 12, ☏ +39 0141 34875.
* 44.89688.203116 Volli, Via XX Settembre 60, ☏ +39 0141 178 6215.

## Drink

* 44.90078.20651 Bar Cocchi, Piazza Vittorio Alfieri 64. One of Asti's oldest bars, originally opened by Cocchi spumante house.
* 44.89898.20192 Pompa Magna, Via Aliberti 65. Wine bar and restaurant.
* 44.89978.2013 Caffetteria Mazzetti, Corso Vittorio Alfieri 357.
* 44.8998.20344 Il Cicchetto, Via Garetti 11.
* 44.89858.20385 Il Cavallino Alato, Via Quintino Sella 3.
* 44.89838.20546 Old River, Piazza Astesano, 27.
* 44.89868.19697 Taste' Vin, Via Carlo Vassallo 2.
* 44.89968.20478 Caffè Musetti, Piazza San Secondo.
* 44.89978.20529 Green Zone, Via Teatro Alfieri 8-10.
* 44.90088.208210 Novecento, Via Ospedale 14.
* 44.90098.206811 Portici Rossi, Corso Alfieri 191.
* 44.92438.186112 La Terrazza del Borgo, Località Viatosto.

## Sleep

* 44.89548.20731 Hotel Cavour, Piazza Marconi 18, ☏ +39 0141 530222, fax: +39 0141 530222. Inexpensive hotel next to train station.
* 44.89718.20612 Hotel Palio, Via Cavour 106, ☏ +39 0141 34371, fax: +39 0141 3473. 4-star hotel in central Asti, close to train station and campo del Palio.
* 44.98.21113 Hotel Lis, Via Fratelli Rosselli 10.
* 44.89728.20664 Hotel Aleramo, Via Emanuele Filiberto 13.
* 44.90738.26125 Mini Motel, Corso Alessandria 560.
* 44.89928.21276 Albergo Etico, Corso Galileo Ferraris 58.
* 44.90748.28317 Albergo Antica Dogana, Via Antica Dogana 5, Frazione Quarto Inferiore.
* 44.90088.20738 Hotel Reale, Piazza Alfieri 5.
* 44.89688.20619 Hotel Rainero, Via Cavour 85.
* 44.90888.138410 Villetta Sampaguita, Valleandona 117, ☏ +39 0141 295802, fax: +39 0141 295970. Agriturismo B&B 10 minutes from Asti, owned by British couple, with vineyard and winery.
* 44.86258.214611 Agriturismo I Surì, Frazione San Marzanotto 77.
* 44.93618.206812 Agriturismo Cascina Lissona, Località Valgera 57.
* 44.92718.201313 La Ferté, Strada Valmanera 150.

## Go next

Asti is near many wine country hill towns and villages:
* The Roero; Cisterna d'Asti, Canale
* N. Monferrato; Cocconato, Abbazia Vezzolano, Sacra di Crea
* S. Monferrato; Nizza, Canelli
* Langhe; Barolo, Barbaresco & Mango