# Vienna/Mariahilf

Mariahilf is the 6th district of Vienna. Its border to the north is the most famous Viennese shopping street the Mariahilferstrasse, to the west the Gürtel and to the south the Vienna River.

## Understand

Mariahilf contrasts between the more raw areas around the Wien River where the Naschmarkt is. The district covers neighborhoods of bars and other popular bohemian and queer haunts along the Gumpendorfer Straße, and it borders Neubau along Vienna's most popular shopping street Mariahilfer Straße up the hill from the Gumpendorfer Straße.

## Get in

The underground line U3 is available to the north, the U4 to the south and the U6 to the north on the districts borders.

## See

* 48.19433916.3451471 Haydnhaus (Haydn's House), Haydngasse 19, ☏ +43 1 596 13 07, fax: +43 1 1 505 87 47 7201, office@wienmuseum.at. Tu-Su and holidays 10:00-13:00, 14:00-18:00. Joseph Haydn spent the final twelve years of his life in this home, during which time he composed the oratorios The Creation and The Seasons. The house has been a museum since 1899, and careful restoration has included the small garden, which is now also open to the public. €4 (adults), €3 (seniors/students/Vienna Card), free (children/youth under 19), free the first Sunday of every month.
* 48.1976516.353182 Haus des Meeres (Aqua Terra Zoo), Fritz-Grünbaum-Platz 1 (U3 Neubaugasse), office@haus-des-meeres.at. M-W 09:00-18:00, Th 09:00-21:00, F-Su 09:00-18:00. A marvelous zoo, with a rain forest glasshouse, tiny apes, aquariums with sharks, and terrariums with reptiles and venomous snakes. Other highlights include an interesting exhibit of Mediterranean sea life and the aquarium's beloved sea turtle, "Puppi." The apes and birds are allowed to freely mingle with the visitors, but don't attempt to touch or feed them. It is in one of the surviving air raid defense towers from WWII, a so-called Flakturm. During wartime, the building provided fire control for Vienna's anti-aircraft artillery, housed some of the first radar equipment, and is designed to withstand a direct bomb hit, an earthquake, and wind speeds up to an overpressure of ten bar. Its former gun emplacements are now a platform on top affording nice views over the roofs of Vienna. €14.20 (adults), €10.90 (concessions).
* 48.2018116.361013 Rahlstiege, Rahlgasse. The staircase connects the Mariahilfer and the Gumpendorfer Strasse. It was built in 1870.

## Do

* 48.19746316.3527841 Kletterzentrum Flakturm, Esterhazypark (U3 Neubaugasse, U4 Kettenbrückengasse (5 min walk),), ☏ +43 1 585 47 48, kletterzentrum.flakturm@oeav-events.at. May-Sept: M W F-Su 14:00-darkness; Tu Th 12:00-darkness. On one side of the 2nd Worldwar bunker there are routes to climb high up until its roof with great views into the roofs of Vienna. The routes are usually hard and require some endurance. The alpine club organises courses for beginners and intermediate. On the other side there are boulder problems set. The outdoor climbing in middle of a historic city makes this a favorite choice for many climbers during the hot season. €12. (updated Jun 2016)
* 48.19954416.364212 Theater an der Wien, Linke Wienzeile 6, ☏ +43 1 588 30 1010, fax: +43 1 588 30 991010, info@theater-wien.at. This historic theater was founded by Emanuel Schikaneder (best known as Mozart's librettist for The Magic Flute). The building was designed by Franz Jäger, and completed in 1801. Since opening it has been the venue for many historic premieres of opera, theatre, and symphonies, including Beethoven's Fidelio in 1805 and Johann Strauss II's Die Fledermaus in 1874; since 2006 it has functioned mostly as an opera house. The side entrance, known as Papagenotor, has a sculpture of Papageno, the character whose role was Schikaneder played in the premiere of The Magic Flute.
* 48.19214816.3397583 Raimund Theater, Wallgasse 18-20, ☏ +43 1 58885 (tickets), fax: +43 1 588 30 991010, info@vbw.at. Constructed in 1893 as a venue for German folk dramas and plays, the building was later used for operettas. Since 1985 it has hosted German-language and international musicals.
* 48.19741516.35394 Apollo Kino, Gumpendorfer Straße 63, ☏ +43 1 587 96 51. A Cineplexx theater with plenty of choices including original versions. The cinema opened here in 1905. According to seat numbers it is one of the biggest in Vienna.
* 48.19912416.3524785 Haydn Kino (English Cinema Haydn), Mariahilfer Straße 57 (U3 Neubaugasse), ☏ +43 1 5872262. The theatre projects mostly English films in original version.
* 48.20137316.3616346 Topkino, Rahlgasse 1, ☏ +43 1 2083000. During football championships they show the games in one of the cinema theatres. It is screening international artistic productions. For the bar see the drink section.

## Buy

* 48.19786216.3620631 Naschmarkt (right at the U4 subway station Kettenbrueckengasse). Shopping: 06:00-19:30, Sa 06:00-18:00; food stalls: M-Sa 06:00-23:00. This is the largest of Vienna's 22 market places and provides a unique blend of typical Vienna costumely and oriental flair. Stroll through the market and be part of the amazing ambiance. If you like to cook, you will find all the spices you could possibly want at the Naschmarkt; on offer are regional and exotic fruits and vegetables, cheeses, meats, baked goods, and seafoods, as well as many small restaurants serving Viennese as well as international dishes. The side of the Secession tends to be more touristy and thus more expensive than the side of the Kettenbrueckengasse.
* 48.19637416.356422 Naschmarkt Flea Market (Flohmarkt beim Naschmarkt), Linke Wienzeile (U4 Kettenbrückengasse). Sa and holidays 06:30-18:00. Need used lederhosen? How about a doner kebab at the Naschmarkt or an Austrian war bond from the first World War? This is the place to go on Saturdays. Pick through the detritus of an imperial society, you never know what you will find hidden under that stack of terrible fuzzy sweaters. Couture gowns, communist medals from all the former Eastern Bloc countries, tobacco pipes, broken pocket watches. Worth at least a full morning. Flea markets are the best possible blend of high and low culture, and a way to truly get to know a city. Walk all the way from the flea market end of the Naschmarkt through the food stalls end to arrive at the Secession building, on the left close to the Karlsplatz metro stop. (It is illegal to export antiquities from Austria, even if you legally buy them at a market.)
* 48.198616.35083 Mariahilferstraße (stretches from the Museumsquartier to Westbahnhof, subway through stations (east to west) Museumsquartier (U2), Neubaugasse (U3), Zieglergasse (U3), or Westbahnhof (U3/U6)). The longest and most popular shopping avenue in Vienna, featuring all kinds of stores, many flagship stores from international brands, etc. More diverse and cosmopolitan than Kärntner Straße.
* 48.19326216.3530264 Polyklamott, Hofmühlgasse 6 (U4 Pligramgasse), ☏ +43 1 9690337, post@polyklamott.at. M-F 12:00-19:30, Sa 11:00-18:00. Sells hand-picked second-hand clothes.
* 48.19889516.3567325 Ciclopia (Vienna bike base), Stiegengasse 20 (U3 Neubaugasse + 5min walk, U4 Kettenbrückengasse +5min walk), ☏ +43 1 586 76 33. M-F 10:00-13:00, 14:00-19:00; Sa 10:00-17:00. This very fancy Viennese bike shop sells mostly Specialized mountain bikes or Italian road bikes. Their repair center is pricy, but very well known for their quality work. The shop is affiliated with a road racing team. From time to time they organise test rides for their customers.

## Eat

There is good international cuisine and many restaurants are located in the Mariahilf inner district (Italian, Japanese, Greek, and Turkish food). The Naschmarkt market attracts many tourists, as does the Mariahilfer Strasse. Beware that many restaurants are smoker-friendly, and packed and loud in peak times. Usually better food is found off of the main thoroughfares. During summer people go to the Mariahilfer Strasse for an ice-cream. The budget section lists good value food for tighter budgets.

### Budget

* 48.1982416.362781 Café Do An, Naschmarkt Stand 412, ☏ +43 1 585 82 53, cafedoan@gmail.com. M-Sa 07:00-24:00. Several salats are served. Free Wi-Fi. Usually it is well packed by a "bobo" public. €5-8.
* 48.20039616.3566072 Eis-Greissler, Mariahilfer Straße 33 (In the middle of U3 Neubaugasse and U2 Museumsquartier). 11:00-23:00. Serves vegan and interesting ice-cream varieties.
* 48.19823616.356593 Natsu I, Gumpendorfer Straße 45 (near the Apollo Kino), ☏ +43 1 5812700. Daily 11:00-23:00. Decent sushi. Sets from €3, get stuffed for €6.

### Mid-range

* 48.19355716.3539424 Cafe Willendorf, Linke Wienzeile 102 (U4 Pilgramgasse), ☏ +43 1 5871789, info@cafe-willendorf.at. Th-Sa 18:00-02:00, Su–W 18:00-01:00. The restaurant inside the lesbian and queer "Rosa Lilla Villa" serves good international food.
* 48.19142216.347615 Disco Volante, Gumpendorfer Straße 98, ☏ +43 664 195 25 45, prenotazioni@disco-volante.at. Th F 12:00-24:00; Sa Su 12:00-23:00. Pizza with just enough and not too many toppings, and very Italian selection. Austrian ingredients, when used, are unusual specialties.
* 48.19745616.35926 Kuishimbo (im Majolkahaus), Linke Wienzeile 40 (U4 Kettenbrückengasse), ☏ +43 699 17192355. M-Sa 12:00-21:00. The smallest Japanese restaurant in town. All the dishes are homemade, and the owners claim that they pay attention to a proper balance of ingredients – being full can also be healthy. The place is so small that there is no toilet inside, you have to use the one in the Naschmarkt. The udon soups are excellent. Around €11, including drinks.
* 48.19659116.344077 Mythos, Mariahilferstrasse 111/Webgasse 45, ☏ +43 1 595 25 62, info@mythos-restaurant.at. Daily 11:00-23:00. A nice family-run Greek restaurant, with a good variety of items to choose from. €5-20 per dish.
* 48.1983116.36278 Naschmarkt Deli, Naschmarkt Stand 421–436, ☏ +43 1 5850823, info@naschmarkt-deli.at. M-Sa 07:00-24:00. Popular student meet place in Naschmarkt that sells directly sells good food with many vegetarian options directly from the Naschmarkt. The Italian café is recommended. Later in the evenings often a DJ plays. €8.
* 48.19551816.3534719 Salzberg, Magdalenenstraße 17, ☏ +43 1 581 62 26, office@salzberg.at. M-F 11:00-01:00, Sa 09:00-01:00, Su 09:00-24:00. The Salzberg restaurant serves Pongauer Kasnocken, made with special smoked cheese (Räucherkäse) from Salzburg province. There is a large selection of breakfast/brunch choices. The open air patio is on a quiet street.
* 48.19908516.36204310 $^{[formerlydeadlink]}$ Schwarze Katze, Girardigasse 6, ☏ +43 1 5870625. Georges Dimou, the singer, operates this traditional Greek restaurant.

### Splurge

* 48.1996816.36549511 $^{[deadlink]}$ Fischrestaurant Umar, Naschmarkt Stand 76-79, ☏ +43 1 587 04 56, office@umarfisch.at. M-Sa 10:00-23:00. Extremely good fish directly from their shop, which is the best and freshest seafood shop in Vienna. Wi-Fi is available. Changing daily lunch menu. (updated Oct 2017)
* 48.1979116.3621612 Neni (Neni am Naschmarkt), Naschmarkt Stand 510, ☏ +43 15852020, info@neni.at. M-Sa 08:00-24:00. The best restaurant on the Naschmarkt with Isrealean carte.

## Drink

Mariahilf lives up to its bohemian roots and offers good possibilities to go out in classy ways with fair prices.

### Cafés

Mariahilf offers a large variety of different cafés from very traditional Viennese ones like Cafe Sperl, Cafe Ritter, and Cafe Jelinek, as well as modern relaxed ones like Phil and Topkino, queer places like Café Savoy, and all-nighters like Café Drechsler.
* 48.19850216.3624881 $^{[deadlink]}$ Café Drechsler, Linke Wienzeile 22 (Ecke Girardigasse), ☏ +43 1 5812044, office@cafedrechsler.at. M 08:00-02:00, Tu–Sa 03:00-02:00, Su 03:00-24:00. The café is open during nights. It opened in 1919 by Engelbert Drechsler and is a traditional and popular all-night meeting point. It was carefully remodeled in 2007.
* 48.19520116.3494572 Cafe Jelinek, Otto-Bauer Gasse 5 (U3 Zieglergasse +5min walk), ☏ +43 1 5974113. 09:00-21:00. Small coffee place nicely lost in the middle of Mariahilf. In winter the rustic and warm oven is wonderful. In summer one can sit outdoors.
* 48.19308416.3453273 Cafe Restaurant Gschamster Diener, Stumpergasse 19, ☏ +43 1 597 25 28, office@gschamsterdiener.com. M-F 09:00-24:00, Sa 09:00-22:00, Su 10:00-23:00. Smaller congenial Viennese café.
* 48.19806916.3505284 Café Ritter, Mariahilfer Strasse 73 (U3 Neubaugasse), ☏ +43 1 5878238. M-Sa 07:30-22:00, Su 09:00-21:00. A traditional Viennese cafe that is very popular due to its central location on Mariahilfer Strasse.
* 48.1976116.360165 Café Savoy (Cafe Wienzeile), Linke Wienzeile 36 (U4 Kettenbrückengasse), ☏ +43 1 58 11 557. M-Th 12:00-02:00, F 12:00-03:00, Sa 09:00-03:00, Su 12:00-02:00. The queer bar is centered around a big mirror and decorated in Makart style (Makartstil). Free WiFi. The café serves breakfast.
* 48.19982116.3611076 Café Sperl, Gumpendorferstraße 11 (U2 Museumsquariter + walk), ☏ +43 1 586 41 58, melange@cafesperl.at. M-Sa 07:00-23:00, Su 11:00-20:00. A very traditional Viennese café, known to be frequented by contemporary Austrian writers including R. Menasse. It offers breakfast, cakes and a great atmosphere. Don't be put off by the Viennese brusqueness of the waiters – if possible counter with Viennese dialect and humor.
* 48.20022916.3612227 Phil, Gumpendorfer Straße 10-12, ☏ +43 1 581 04 89, info@phil.info. M 17:00-01:00, Tu-Su 09:00-01:00. The bar/café sells also books, LPs and its furniture. The Pellini-Espresso is served from a Faema machine. Nice place to have breakfast.
* 48.20129816.3617698 Topkino, Rahlgasse 1, ☏ +43 1 2083000. 15:00-02:00. The bar of the cinema has good food too and serves wine and beer in a relaxed atmosphere. Unfortunately only up to 22:00 the bar is non-smoking, soon before people start smoking.

### Bars

* 48.19695716.3491639 Barfly's Club, Esterhazygasse 33 (Inside Hotel Fürst Metternich). M-Th 18:00-02:00, F Sa 18:00-04:00. Big selection of fine and rare bottles.
* 48.20089816.35882510 Bar Italia, Mariahilferstrasse 19-21, ☏ +43 1 585 28 38, tavola@baritalia.net. -02:00. The Italian styled bar offers many different cocktails. Free Wi-Fi access. The music is primarily jazz and there is a dance floor.
* 48.1980816.35342511 futuregarden, Schadekgasse 6, ☏ +43 1 5852613. M–Sa 18:00-, Su 20:00-. Tiny little artsy bar, smoking permitted.
* 48.20042416.36132412 If dogs run free, Gumpendorferstr. 10, ☏ +43 1 9132132. M-Th 18:00-02:00, F Sa 18:00-04:00. The stylish and hip bar serves interesting cocktails.
* 48.19809216.35607813 Joanelli (Eissalon Joanelli), Gumpendorfer Straße 47, joanelli@chello.at. 18:00-02:00. The bar permits smoking and offers wines and vegan snacks.
* 48.19856316.35187214 Tanzcafé Jenseits, Nelkengasse 3, ☏ +43 1 587 12 33, office@tanzcafe-jenseits.com. May-Sep: Tu-Sa 20:00-04:00; Oct-Apr: M 20:00-02:00, Tu-Sa 20:00-04:00. The bar serves good wine, with a popular dance floor (unusual in Vienna). Well-liked by women.

## Sleep
### Budget

* 48.19404316.3413581 $^{[formerlydeadlink]}$ Red Carpet Hostel, Bürgerspitalgasse 17-19 (close to Westbahnhof, U6 and Mariahilferstraße), ☏ +43 1 5979347-100, booking@redcarpethostels.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 10:00. Free WiFi, hostel bar, free welcome drink, shower/toilet in every room, backyard, free luggage storage. 1 Jul-14 Sep. Privates from €22.
* 48.19366416.3404272 Happy Hostel, Kurzgasse 2 (near to Westbahnhof and U6 Gumpendorfer Strasse), ☏ +43 1 208 26 18, info@happyhostel.at. Dorms €17.

### Mid-range

* 48.19837716.3505933 Hotel Kummer, Mariahilferstraße 71a, ☏ +43 1 588 95. Directly located on Mariahilferstraße.
* 48.19695716.3491634 Hotel Fuerst Metternich, Esterhazygasse 33, ☏ +43 1 588 70, metternich@austrotel.at. The hotel is near Mariahilferstrasse and offers large breakfast. It hosts the Barfly's Club.

### Splurge

* 48.20097816.3591955 Das Tyrol, Mariahilferstraße 15 (near the Museumsquartier), ☏ +43 1 587 5415, fax: +43 1 587 5415 9, reception@das-tyrol.at. A small and comfortable hotel. €109-259.

## Go next

* Innere Stadt is the central town district.
* Neubau is an inner district to the north.
* Wieden is an inner district to the south.
* Margareten is an inner district to the south.
* Vienna's Outer West.