# Sekigahara

Sekigahara (関ヶ原町 Sekigahara-chō) is a rural town at the western edge of Gifu Prefecture in the Chubu region of Japan. It is most famous for the October 1600 Battle of Sekigahara, but its picturesque location nestled in a small valley between mountains, combined with its complete lack of large tour buses, makes it a nice day trip from the larger nearby cities of Kyoto, Nagoya, and Kanazawa. The small size of the town and the well-marked paths between historic sites makes Sekigahara even more appealing, as a visitor can traverse the entire battlefield in about a day.
You will need a solid understanding of Japanese, or a good translator, if you wish to interact with the town on a deeper level, but English-language material is available in the museums and on historical signs by the sites.

## Understand

Sekigahara was the site of the epic Battle of Sekigahara (関ヶ原合戦 Sekigahara gassen) between Tokugawa Ieyasu and Ishida Mitsunari, representing Toyotomi Hideyoshi's son and designated successor Toyotomi Hideyori. The Cliff's Notes version: Ishida's Western Alliance had 120,000 troops against the 75,000 of Tokugawa's Eastern Alliance, but Tokugawa cleverly exploited various grievances in Ishida's ranks to convince six daimyo (regional warlords) to defect along with some 23,000 troops, tipping the scales of the battle. A mere two hours after the battle began on the morning of October 21, 1600, the Western Alliance was in tatters and a total of some 40,000 lay dead. Ishida escaped but was captured and executed on November 6th.
Tokugawa's victory on heralded the beginning of the Edo Period, and with it the rise of the Shogunate. The destruction of most of the forces of the Western Alliance allowed Tokugawa to rapidly consolidate control of Japan within the following four months, as previously-Western or neutral daimyos either joined with Tokugawa or were crushed by him. Consequently, the town is filled with ruins, memorials and shrines to the dead. (There is a river called Kurochigawa (黒血川, "Black Blood River"), where the Tokugawa armies washed the cut-off heads of those fallen in battle, but the name had originated in the Jinshin War in the 7th century under similar circumstances.)
Today's Sekigahara is a rural town with a population just over 7,000. Due to its historical significance, Sekigahara is sister cities with both Waterloo in Belgium and Gettysburg in the US. It can also be inundated with Japanese tourists (particularly schoolchildren) because of its importance in Japanese history during certain parts of the Japanese school year.

### Tourist information

* 35.363542136.4708541 Sekigahara Tourist Information Center (関ヶ原駅前観光交流館 Sekigahara ekimae kankō kōryū-kan), 598-4, Sekigahara. 09:00-17:00, closed Tu and the day after a holiday. The main tourist information center in town. Directly across from the square when you exit Sekigahara Station. Inside is a gift shop (very similar content to the one in the Museum) and free maps of the town and the battle. The maps provide information and suggested routes for the different Commanders' hikes, but they are almost entirely in Japanese (the hiking trail is marked on the map though so you can at least follow along the route, even if you cannot read what it is you're seeing). (updated May 2024)

### Tourist information site

The town has a unified sightseeing guide site (Japanese-only, with integrated machine translation). Its download section has pamphlets in English, French, Chinese and Korean.

### Read

James Clavell's Shogun (ISBN 0440178002) is a fictionalized account of the rise to power of Tokugawa Ieyasu, thinly disguised as "Toranaga", culminating the Battle of Sekigahara and the gruesome but historically accurate death of his enemy Ishida ("Ishido"), who is captured as he runs away from the field of battle and is executed by having his head slowly cut off by a wooden saw. The Emmy-winning 2024 TV series based on the book is also well worth a watch.
The classic samurai novel Musashi by Eiji Yoshikawa (ISBN 156836427X), about the real exploits of the eponymous famous swordsman, starts where Shogun ends, with Musashi fighting on the losing side at the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600.

## Get in
### By train

The JR Tokaido Shinkansen line passes through Sekigahara on its way from Osaka to Nagoya, but it does not stop in the town. If coming from Kyoto (as most Western tourists tend to do), take the Shinkansen to Maibara, and then change to the JR Tokaido Line. The Shinkansen leg takes 19 minutes and the Tokaido leg takes 21 minutes, so the trip can be done in about an hour or even quicker if you time it right with trains. Make sure to take the Hikari or Kodama Shinkansen, as that will stop at every station (the other Shinkansen do not stop at Maibara). Maibara is the first stop going east from Kyoto on the Hikari or Kodama Shinkansen. If traveling on a Seishun 18 ticket or other pass that does not permit use of the Shinkansen, take the Special Rapid (新快速) to Maibara and change to the JR Central portion of the Tokaido line. When using the Special Rapid train, the JR West leg takes 1 hour 7 minutes.
If coming from Tokyo, one of two hourly Hikari services from Tokyo stops at Maibara, and you can transfer to the Tokaido Line local for the run to Sekigahara (total time 3 hours, ¥12,070, no charge with JR Pass).
35.36372136.469981 Sekigahara Station (関ケ原駅). is a small unstaffed rural station, with two platforms (four trains) and one entrance/exit on the south side of the tracks. Within the building there are a few vending machines and restrooms. Other than that, there's nothing else in the station (no restaurants, shops, etc.). (updated May 2024)

### By vehicle

Driving wise, Sekigahara is at the intersection between Routes 365 (N-S) and 21 (E-W). To the south of the town lies the E1 (Meishin) expressway that runs between Komaki (outside of Nagoya) and Nishinomiya. Both roads meander through narrow(ish) mountain valleys in the heart of rural Japan, and while they are in good condition (as of March 2023), they are quite far from the major tourist sites (about 1.5 hours from Kyoto and 45 minutes from Nagoya). Unless you are already staying in the Lake Biwa area or around Ogaki, it's faster to buy a train ticket and take the trains.

### By bus

There are no public buses that transport people into or through the town. The only buses that bring people in are Japanese tour coaches, so non-Japanese tourists will probably not utilize buses to visit the town at all (unless they have a really solid grasp of Japanese and have decided to book one of those tours).

## Get around
### By foot

Unless you drive in (or are bused in), everyone enters (and leaves) Sekigahara via the Sekigahara Station, which is in the center of the town. The entire town can be walked within a few hours, and it's probably well within reason to state that any part of the town is within a 20- to 30-minute walk from the Station.
Some historic sites are located on the top of hills or small mountains. While everything is easily walked, some trails are stepped (thus bicycles are not allowed) and can be quite steep.

### By bicycle

Bicycles can be rented at the Tourist Center opposite the Station entrance, or at the Memorial Museum to the north of the Station. Some of the more distant sites are best accessed by bicycle, but there are occasional parts of the trails where bicycles must be walked and not ridden (such as over some small dams). The bicycles use pedals that don't require snap-in shoes.

### By bus

The town operated Fureai Bus rotates on 5 different routes, three times a day. It's not so convenient for the time-pressed traveler; you may tour by foot, bicycle, or private vehicle.

## See
### Battle of Sekigahara Sites

While the Battle of Sekigahara is of major significance to Japanese history buffs and school groups, foreign visitors are rare and information in English is generally minimal. A solid grasp of Japanese and/or a local guide will come in handy here. Memorial posts (陣跡 jin-ato) have been set up at most major battle sites in the area, but information is in Japanese. Historic markers are set up next to the posts, which explains in Japanese and English both the significance of said post and how the battle unfolded for the person that the post commemorates (for example, the post marking Shimadzu Yoshihiro's encampment details how his forces acted in the battle).
* 35.365559136.4661751 Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum (岐阜関ケ原古戦場記念館, Gifu Sekigahara Kosenjō Kinenkan) (just north of the Station, about a 3- to 5-minute walk up a slight hill). This new museum (built 2020) offers a good introduction to the battle itself. It is especially helpful because the first two exhibits (both visual media - a bird's eye view of the battle and an anime-like 4D theater movie depicting what it was like in the fray) provide the necessary background to understand how the 6-hour battle went and why Tokugawa won. The upper floors contain mainly replicas (although some original artifacts and documents are displayed) of writings relating to the battle or Tokugawa's rise to power, and then goes in depth of the aftermath of the battle and the consolidation of his rule. Kids and the young at heart will enjoy the third floor, which offers a hands-on exhibit where you can play around with different types of weapons used during the battle (such as katanas, matchlock rifles, and battle fans). The fifth floor is an observation deck that gives a panorama of the battlefield and town, and has signs (in Japanese) that indicate where each important thing is/was. The staff don't speak English and about 85% of the exhibits have English translations, but the movies have English subtitles. ¥500 for adults, ¥400 for students, and ¥300 for kids. (updated Apr 2023)
* 35.365908136.4662782 Sekigahara Town History and Folklore Museum (歴史民俗学習館 Rekishi minzoku gakushukan) (A 5-minute walk from the station). Renewed in 2020, this museum focuses on topics other than the famous battle, from archaeological times to today. Free. (updated Feb 2024)
* 35.360641136.4650443 Eastern and Western Head Mounds (Higashi and Nishi Kubizuka). On opposite sides of the train tracks, two shrines commemorate the sites where two large mounds of the severed heads of fallen soldiers were buried. As per traditional Japanese concepts of reverence for the dead, these shrines are dedicated to all who fell in the battle, not solely forces of one side. (updated Apr 2023)
* 35.371768136.4588324 Ishida Mitsunari's Encampment (笹尾山 Sasao yama). To the north of the town on a small hill that offers a commanding view of both the town and the battlefield. This is where Ishida Mitsunari, Tokugawa Ieyasu's main opponent and leader of the Western Alliance at the battle, based his camp. Two rows of wooden palisades flank the base of the hill, and a stairpath allows visitors to walk up to the memorial at the top. Can easily be seen from the observation deck of the Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum, as well as from most of the town. (updated Apr 2023)
* 35.369416136.4705095 Okayama Signaling Hill (岡山烽火場 Okayama noroshi-ba). To the northeast of the town, this was from where the flare was fired that signaled that the Western Alliance needed reinforcements. The signal sent a message to Tokugawa that enabled him to move his camp closer to the battlefield, boosting troop morale among the Eastern Alliance forces. Like Ishida's Encampment, this can easily be seen from most of the town. (updated Apr 2023)
* 35.365788136.4595056 Battlefield Commencement Marker (国指定史跡 関ヶ原古戦場 開戦地). A marker dedicated to where the first shots of the battle were fired. It also has benches and information boards that detail the order of battle and positions. (updated May 2024)
* 35.362456136.4494237 Ōtani Yoshitsugu's Grave (大谷吉継の墓 Ōtaniyoshitsugu no haka). One of the westernmost memorial markers in the town, this spot marks both the encampment and final burial site of Ōtani Yoshitsugu, one of the Western Alliance's main commanders. When he realized the defections of Kobayakawa Hideaki and others and the increasingly small likelihood of Western victory, he committed seppuku, or ritual suicide. Best reached by bicycle (although it is within walking distance, it just takes longer to get to than most other sites), but the final stretch up the mountain must be walked. (updated Apr 2023)
* 35.365781136.464918 Field Camp Ground (床几場 Shōgiba) (across the road from the museum). Also called "Tokugawa's Final Encampment", this is the spot where Tokugawa Ieyasu held a council meeting after the end of the battle and was presented with the decapitated heads of the enemy's leaders. A small shrine marks the spot. (updated Mar 2023)
* 35.370477136.4615999 Site of Sekigahara Battleground (関ケ原古戦場 Sekigahara kosenjō). This marks the site of the bloodiest clash between the Eastern and Western armies in the Battle of Sekigahara. The monument here is flanked by the flags of the leaders of both armies, Ishida and Tokugawa. (updated Apr 2023)
* Other Memorial Markers. There are plenty of other markers and memorials scattered throughout the town, too numerous to list. The maps on the bridge over the train tracks list them with their relevant commanders. (updated Apr 2023)
* 35.362666136.4549710 Ukita Hideie's Encampment Site (宇喜多秀家陣跡). Ukita Hideie from Bizen Province (present-day Okayama), served as Vice Commander of the Western army, and brought the largest army on the Western Front, consisting of over 17,000 soldiers. Hideie was able to escape the battle and travel all the way to Satsuma Province (Kagoshima) before eventually being apprehended. He was spared a death sentence but was exiled to Hachijojima where he spent the rest of his life. (updated Jul 2024)
* 35.352025136.46138811 Kobayakawa Hideaki's Encampment Site (小早川秀秋陣跡). Infamous traitor to the Western Army, Kobayakawa Hideaki is considered by many historians to have tipped the battle in the Tokugawa (Eastern army's) favor. He defeated Otani Yoshitsugu and then attacked Ukita Hideie's army, throwing them into dissarray and eventual defeat. After the battle, he was made leader of Bizen Province, the province previously lead by Ukita Hideie who he betrayed and attacked, along with Mimasaka Province (both in Okayama). It is said that he went mad after the battle due to his betrayal leading to his death in 1602 at the age of 21. (updated Jul 2024)
* 35.372806136.44356512 Grave of Okudaira Sadaharu (奥平貞治の墓). A leader who fought under the traitor Kobayakawa. He died while attacking Otani Yoshitsugu's army. The grave was built here by one of his descendants. (updated Jul 2024)
* 35.368344136.45319913 Sekigahara War Land (関ケ原ウォーランド). 10:00-16:00. While it's not a historic site, War Land is an open-air recreation of the Battle of Sekigahara. It includes encampments with the famous leaders marked so you can take pictures with your favorites. They also have samurai armor rentals for an additional fee so you can take pictures in the battlefield as a fighter. Armor rentals are not available in the summer due to the high risk of heat stroke. Just outside of War Land, they often host other events, such as summer umbrella (hanagasa) displays and cosmos flower viewing in the autumn. ¥800 (¥500 in winter). (updated Aug 2024)
* 35.367426136.46540314 Sengoku Armor Museum (関ヶ原戦国甲冑館). (updated Sep 2024)

### Nakasendo

The Nakasendo trail that connected Edo to Kyoto ran through Sekigahara. The town contains two former post towns from the trail, the Sekigahara-juku and the Imasu-juku.
* 35.36257136.46879415 Sekigahara-juku's Honjin (関ケ原宿本陣跡 Sekigahara-juku Honjin-ato). Sekigahara was one of the post towns along the Nakasendo. The honjin was a designated inn where passing daimyo and other important officials would stay. Like most of the honjin, the building no longer exists. On its former site there is a marker and a tree that stood in the front garden. The rest of the former honjin now contains Hachiman Shrine. The gate of Sekighara's honjin is preserved in the neighboring town of Tarui at Honryuji Temple. (updated Jul 2024)
* 35.362517136.46961716 Sekigahara-juku's Wakihonjin (関ケ原宿脇本陣跡). Every post town had a wakihonjin which was an inn used for daimyo when the honjin could not be used, when more than one daimyo were staying, or for lower-level vassals who could not stay in the honjin. Wakihonjin were also available for the public to stay in when daimyo were not here. The wakihonjin no longer exists, but a replica of the gate was built here with a signpost. There is an additional signpost marking the birthplace of the Priest Shido Munan (至道無難禅師生誕地) who was a Zen master during the Edo Period. (updated Aug 2024)
* 35.35952136.4580217 Fuwanoseki Museum (Sekigahara Town History and Folklore Museum), 21-1 Matsuo, ☏ +81 584 43 2611. Tu-Su 09:30 - 16:30. Local history covering 6 eras from prehistoric to contemporary. Free. (updated May 2024)
* 35.348473136.43322218 Imasu-juku's Toiyaba (今須宿問屋場). Toiyaba were places in post towns where Daimyo and officials went to get or exchange horses, personnel, and perform various administrative tasks. They existed in every post town, however very few Toiyaba exist today. The Imasu-juku's Toiyaba is Gifu's sole remainder. (updated Jul 2024)
* 35.349675136.42157919 Mino and Omi Province Border Marker (美濃国と近江国との国境). A stone monument marks the border between the former Omi Province and Mino Province. On either side of the border, there are also markers that give the modern borders of Shiga Prefecture and Gifu Prefecture. (updated Jul 2024)

### Other

* 35.370811136.42601320 Sekigahara Limestone Cave (関ケ原鍾乳洞). Hours vary by month. Closed W, except on holidays and open everyday in August. A 518-meter-long cave that maintains a temperature of 15 °C (59 °F) all year round. The cave has many stalagtites and stalagmites, some of which have been noted and named for their unique appearances, such as "The Giant's Foot" (巨人の足) which really does look like a giant leg and foot. The cave also contains fossils and there are trout in the river that runs through the cave. ¥700. (updated Aug 2024)
* 35.368834136.43684621 Eco Museum Sekigahara (エコミュージアム関ケ原). 09:00-17:00. A small museum featuring exhibits about the flora and fauna found in western Gifu Prefecture. Free. (updated Aug 2024)

## Do

Explore the town and soak in the history and significance of the battle!
Along the path from the Station to the Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum are posters that display information about each of the major commanders, as well as a map of the ideal path for visiting the sites related to that commander. These maps list in both English and Japanese what the site itself is (although not the significance of it), how far the walk is in km, and how long it takes (most are within 120-140 minutes, but one is 90 minutes).
In October, the Battle of Sekigahara Festival occurs on the closest weekend before the 21st (the date of the actual battle), which includes a reenactment of the battle plus extra activities such as demonstrations of matchlock guns in action. It is similar in nature to the Civil War reenactments in the United States, and is recommended for anyone who loves military history or samurai/feudal Japan.

## Buy

Fans of shogi (Japanese chess), can buy chessboards set up like the Sekigahara battlefield from souvenir shops around town (¥800). Gift shops in town (especially in the museums) sell products that either have the different daimyo family crests on them (so you can pick your favorite clan) or are otherwise related to the Shogun, samurai, or Japan in general.
Because the town receives a lot of Japanese schoolkids on tours, there are plenty of souvenirs that are designed for children (such as plastic katanas, wooden samurai puzzles, and kids' shirts) and might be an interesting gift for a young relative. More "adult" related souvenirs usually revolve around local sake or clothing/towels, but there are also items that will appeal to all ages.
* 35.36537136.4660471 Sekigahara Memorial Museum Bekkan (岐阜関ケ原古戦場記念館 別館). This is the museum's souvenir shop, located in a separate annex (bekkan) across from the museum. Here you can find a variety of items from clothing to stationary to pottery with the emblems of the Eastern and Western armies, as well as the emblems of some of the domains involved. There are also books and maps about the battle, as well as edible souvenirs. (updated Sep 2024)

## Eat

In 2023, NHK's year-long drama series focused on Ieyasu and prompted many investments in the area. As a result, some decent restaurants and cafes opened both in the battlefield and around the station. There is also a cafe named Hikosa in front of the museum.
* 35.369076136.4663081 Coco Cafe (ココカフェ). Th-M 09:30-18:00. A small cafe near Okayama's Signalling Hill. (updated Oct 2024)
* 35.366337136.4667832 Fusen (ふうせん) (in the Sekigahara Fureai Center), ☏ +81 584435573. Tu-Su 08:00-17:00. A cafe across the street from the Battlefield Museum. (updated Oct 2024)
* 35.368112136.4539723 Hanaibuki Restaurant Sekigahara (花伊吹), ☏ +81 584431177. Daily 11:00-14:00 for food, 10:00-16:00 for shopping. A restaurant and general store located near War Land and the Iketera Pond. (updated Oct 2024)
* 35.3653136.46624 Ibukian (伊吹庵) (at Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum). Small cafeteria-style cafe with good and relatively cheap food. (updated Sep 2024)
* 35.363795136.4719365 Jya Jya (まんぷく処) (behind the Tourist Information Center), ☏ +81 584435698. W-M 17:00-23:00, Th-Su 11:00-14:00. (updated Oct 2024)
* 35.36122136.4695486 Omatsu Sushi (お松寿し), ☏ +81 584430266. F-W 11:30-14:00, 16:00-22:00; Sa Su and holidays until 21:00. A sushi restaurant near Uoshige restaurant on the south side of town. (updated Oct 2024)
* 35.363998136.4610727 Restaurant Mirai (未来食堂). W-Sa 11:30-15:30. A restaurant near the Battle Commencement Marker, with views of the surrounding mountains. (updated Oct 2024)
* 35.361994136.4691348 Uoshige (魚しげ), ☏ +81 584430019. Th-Tu 11:00-14:00, 17:00-20:00; closed the first and third Tuesdays of each month. A restaurant specializing in eel dishes, located in the heart of the southern side of town. (updated Oct 2024)

## Drink

There are no bars in Sekigahara, and the restaurant in the Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum does not sell alcohol. Some of the other restaurants listed in the "Eat" section may serve alcohol.
If you wish to drink alcohol the closest bars are in Ogaki.
As mentioned above, you can purchase bottles of sake from the museum gift shop or one of the convenience stores in the town; all three are located along major roads, not near the station.

## Sleep

As Sekigahara is a very small rural town, there are no real hotels within the town's borders. The closest hotels are in Ogaki to the east or Maibara to the west (both cities can easily access Sekigahara within 20-30 minutes by train). There is one ryokan (traditional Japanese hotel) and one glamping spot in the town.
* 35.36268136.470971 Masuya Ryokan (ますや旅館), ☏ +81 584 43 0015. Check-in: 16:00, check-out: 10:00. An inn located at the former Sekigahara Post Town (Sekigahara-juku) on the old Nakasendo Route. ¥8500. (updated May 2024)
* 35.356104136.4309262 Kito Sekigahara (Kito関ケ原). Check-in: 15:00-18:00, check-out: 10:00 (Villa Suite stayers can check out at 11:00). A glamping spot with 3 different options; the glamping dome, the villa suite, and the dog cabin which includes a dog run for travelers with pets. All accommodations include an open-air onsen bath. (updated Aug 2024)

## Stay safe

Sekigahara, like most of Japan, is very safe for the average tourist. Crime will generally not be an issue for you, but don't leave your common sense behind. Solo travelers will have no difficulty navigating around the town and will not elicit stares or worse from the locals.
Most of the paths are in reality small roads, and while painted lines indicate a 'sidewalk', you'll be sharing the road with the occasional car. Some of the paths (particularly the one between the Battlefield Memorial post and Okayama Signaling Hill post) go through forests where bears are present. Also, insects can be a nuisance, particularly in the forest areas and around the fields.
Some signs are not clearly marked or have faded, and the maps mentioned in the Do section do not display every intersection. That being said, the maps do stay true to the bends and turns of the correct path, so if you can match up the turn you just did with the turn on the map, you should be good.

## Go next

Most tourists visiting Sekigahara hit it on the way between larger tourist destinations like Kyoto, Nagoya, or Kanazawa, but those spending more time in the region should consider the following:
* Maibara — Nearby Lake Mishima is a great place to see fireflies; most travelers stop here to switch trains on the way to/from Kyoto.
* Ogaki — The next settlement that could reasonably called a "city" when heading east. The closest town with hotels and bars to Sekigahara.
* Tarui — The first settlement entered when traveling east from Sekigahara.
* Gifu — The capital of Gifu Prefecture, a moderately-sized city east of Ogaki.
* Hikone — On Lake Biwa and southwest of Maibara, this city contains one of the 12 original Japanese castles.
* Nagahama — Also on Lake Biwa to the immediate west of Maibara.