# Seoul/Yongsan

Yongsan (용산) is in Seoul's geographic center, sandwiched between Seoul's two major cultural and economic centers, Gangnam and Jongno/Jung. The main area of interest here for travelers is Itaewon, the most international and foreigner-friendly neighborhood in Seoul, and one of the only places where you can find authentic Mexican, Turkish, Middle Eastern, and Indian food on the entire peninsula. It has Korea's largest mosque, markets hawking souvenirs and cheap t-shirts, Turkish ice cream parlors, and a nightlife scene dominated by foreigners. This may be partly due to the presence of the nearby US military base, which is also in Yongsan. Other attractions include the National Museum of Korea, the War Memorial Museum, and the Yongsan Electronics Market, a huge building selling gadgets at a steep discount.
For the time being, Yongsan is relatively quiet compared to its northern and southern neighbors, with many one- and two-story houses covering rolling hills and the southern side of Namsan. However, things may soon change: the U.S. military base is moving to a different location, and talks are underway to develop a natural park around the area.

## Get in

Itaewon Station is on Line 6 (Brown). All exits empty out onto the main drag. The subway does stop running early, so if you are hitting the bars, plan on finding another way home or staying out all night.
At Yongsan-gu, there is a 37.527575126.9612951 Yongsan Station. Unlike Seoul Station which handles Gyeongbu-line trains (trains to Busan, Daegu, etc.), Yongsan Station handles Honam and Jeolla line (trains to Jeonju, Mokpo, Gwangju, Yeosu).

## See

* 37.5534126.98151 Namsan Park (남산공원), 3, Namsangongwon-gil, ☏ +82 2 3783 5900. 00:00~24:00. In the center of Seoul and considered a symbol of Seoul. Namsan Park is an ecology-island surrounded by urban districts. In spite of being an urban ecology-island, wild animals live in the park. The mountain filled with pine trees can be seen from almost every corner of the big city and the residents of the areas surrounding the hills enjoy the fresh mountain air.
* 37.5241126.98032 The National Museum of Korea (국립중앙박물관), 137, Seobinggo-ro (Metro Line 4 and Jungang Line, Ichon station), ☏ +82 2-2077-9000. Closed M; Tu Th F 10:00-18:00; W Sa 10:00-21:00; Su and holidays 09:00-19:00. Houses the best of the best collection of artifacts and relics from across Korea throughout different periods and dynasty. Also has some West Asian pieces from the Japanese Governor-General of Korea. Important exhibitions are Pensive Bodhisattva (bronze-Buddha statue from early 7th century), Goryeo Celadon Openwork Burner, Ten-Story Pagoda from Gyeongcheonsa Temple, and Gold Crown from Silla.
* 37.536126.97713 National War Memorial (전쟁기념관), 29, Itaewon-ro, 특별시 용산구 이태원로 29 (용산동1가) (Lines 4 and 6, Samgakji station), ☏ +82-2-709-3114. Closed Mondays 09:30 ~ 18:00 (Entrance closes at 17:00). A museum about Korean military history and the Korean War. It starts with the ancient and Middle Ages, explaining the wars at that time and showing the weaponry of the time. Then the second-floor deals with the Korean War, both focusing on the Korean and UN forces. Outside of the memorial, there are several fighter, bomber, and trainer aircraft displayed that were used during the Korean War. Free. (updated Jul 2023)
* 37.551216126.9882764 N Seoul Tower (Namsan Tower) (Metro Line 3 or 4, Chungmuro station or line 3 Dongguk University, then ride Bus no. 02, 03, or 05.). 10:00-23:00. Once the tallest tower in Asia, it has the best panoramic view in all of Seoul. Many locals and visitors have visited the tower to catch a glimpse of the city’s landscape while enjoying the nature of Namsan Mountain and a host of other attractive facilities. Owing to the tower's unique structure, the observatory section boasts spectacular views of the changing foliage throughout all seasons. The tower can be reached on foot, by taxi or, on the south side, by cable car. The cable car is available from 10:00-22:30 and is reached by a 10 minute uphill walk from Myeongdong station, from exit 2 or 3. Centrally located, it can be seen from nearly anywhere in Seoul and is a helpful reference for visitors on foot. There's also a Teddy Bear Museum at the tower which has lively illustrations of Korean culture. The fences around the tower are adorned with many thousands of padlocks, where couples pledge their love to each other and throw away the key. ₩9,000 Adults, ₩5,000 Children (Observatory only).
* 37.52114126.980845 National Hangul Museum (국립한글박물관), 139, Seobinggo-ro (Metro Line 4 and Jungang Line, Ichon Station, next to the National Museum), ☏ +82-2-2124-6200. 10:00-18:00; Saturdays and Culture Day 10:00-21:00. With a big permanent exhibition hall divided in three: The Creation of Hangeul, Before the Invention of Hangeul, The principle behind the creation of Hangeul; and a small one for the special temporary topics (relating to Hangeul and other linguistic characters of the world), this place is a must-see to understand why the Koreans are so proud about their language. Free. (updated Oct 2017)
* 37.525688126.9657566 Yongsan Museum of History (용산 역사 박물관), 35-29, Hangang-daero 14-gil, ☏ +82 2 2199 4620. 10:00~18:00 (Closed on Monday). It is a museum where you can see the history of Yongsan, and there is a garden on the third floor. Free. (updated Dec 2022)
* 37.545792126.9667777 Museum of Colonial History (식민지역사박물관), 27 Cheongpa-ro 47da-gil, ☏ +82 2 2139 0427. 10:300~18:00 (Closed on Monday). It is the first history museum specializing in Japanese colonial era. adult 3,000, youth ₩1,500, children free. (updated Dec 2022)
* 37.54447126.9594678 Kim Gu Memorial Hall (백범김구기념관), 26 Imjeong-ro, ☏ +82 2 799 3400. 10:00~17:00. It is a memorial hall left to remember and record the history left by Kim Gu. Free. (updated Dec 2022)
* 37.542801126.9957119 Namsan Outdoor Botanical Garden (남산야외식물원), 259-16 Itaewon-dong, ☏ +82 2 798 3771. 00:00~24:00. You can see various trees and plants, and there is a way to take a walk. Free. (updated Dec 2022)
* 37.529099126.96843310 AmorePacific Museum of Art (모레퍼시픽미술관), Han River Boulevard 100, ☏ +82 2 6040 2345. 10:00~18:00 (Closed on Monday). (updated Dec 2022)
* 37.54105126.9717511 Democracy and Human Rights Memorial Hall (Formerly Namyeong-dong Anti-communist Branch 남영동 대공분실 (민주인권기념관)), 37 Hangang-daero 71-gil (Namyeong Station), ☏ +82 269180102. History buffs may heard of the notorious "Seobinggo hotel" used by Chun Doo-hwan's Defense Security Command, but dissidents were more likely to be send to anti-communist branches like Namyeong-dong before South Korea became a democracy. The branch, which functioned as an interrogation and torture chamber, was built in 1977. This is where university student Bak Jong-cheol was tortured to death, which led to massive pro-democracy movements and forced Chun to agree the direct election of president. The site has been renovated by the police as a museum to commemorate the victims of the authoritarian regime's oppression. (updated Sep 2024)
* 37.529425126.95678812 IPARKMALL Yongsan (아이파크몰 용산), 55, Hangang-daero 23-gil. A complex commercial facility that includes a shopping mall, convenience facilities, and stores. It consists of a building with 3 floors underground and 9 floors above ground. It is divided into The Center, Taste Park, Living Park, and Fashion Park, and has various stores including E Mart, LOTTE HIMART, CGV, and Young Poong Bookstore. (updated Sep 2023)
* 37.5393126.998713 Leeum Museum of Art (리움미술관), 60-16 Itaewon-ro 55-gil, ☏ +82-2-2014-6900. (Tuesday - Sunday)10:00-18:00. The Leeum Museum of Art, located in Yongsan, Seoul, is a renowned museum showcasing both traditional Korean art and contemporary works, offering a unique cultural experience for visitors. (updated Oct 2024)

## Climate

Seoul Yongsan-gu experiences a typical climate with four distinct seasons. Winters are cold and dry, with temperatures ranging from -7°C to 4°C in January. Summers are warm and humid, with July and August being the hottest months, where temperatures can reach up to 29°C. The region receives the most rainfall in July with 317.9 mm of precipitation. Snowfall is not common in Yongsan-gu.

## Do

* 37.539439126.9970921 The Spa Grand Hyatt Seoul (더 스파 그랜드 하얏트 서울), Grand Hyatt Seoul Hotel, 747-7 Hannam 2-Dong, ☏ +82 2 797 1234, info.grandhyattseoul@hyattintl.com. The spa features a variety of massage treatments including a Korean massage, aromatherapy, and aroma stone treatment.
* Haebangchon37.5295126.96482 Great Korean Beer Festival (브루어리 인 용산). The Great Korean Beer Festival is held annually at the Younsan station: I-Park Mall. (updated Nov 2016)

## Buy

* 37.533842126.965211 Yongsan Electronics Market (용산 전자상가), 125, Cheongpa-ro (Metro Line dark blue, Yongsan Station). Yongsan Station is in IMall which is another huge shopping mall with two storeys full of electronics. Without negotiating you can have cheaper prices than amazon.com. Yongsan is one option in Seoul if you are looking for electronics goods. Made up of over 20 buildings housing 5,000 stores, you can find appliances, stereos, computers and peripherals, office equipment, telephones, lighting equipment, electronic games and software, and videos and CDs. A lot of the products are bought in Japan and resold in Korea by dealers. (Decades ago, before Korea had its own electronic manufacturing, the market began selling used goods the vendors would acquire from foreign servicemen.) The market has a reputation for fleecing foreigners, particularly due to its proximity to the Yongsan U.S. Army Base. Koreans try to avoid Yongsan for their electronics needs and rely instead on Internet shopping as sellers in Yongsan are not averse to ripping you off if you don't seem to know a lot about electronics. If you go, it's best to bring a Korean guide so you can ensure you're getting a good deal. The problem is no or very poor English. Only Korean warranty. Cash preferred. Before you buy anything, pretend to have decided not to buy it and start to leave: the best prices only come out then. At IMall they add a 5% charge when you pay by Visa. At Yongsan Electroland it depends on the seller. Up to 10% is possible.
* 37.53626126.987252 Itaewon Foreign Bookstore (이태원 외국서점), Noksapyeong-daero, 208 1 층, ☏ +82 27938249. Probably the best place for English-language books, new or used, in Korea. (updated Aug 2024)

## Eat

* Indian curries. There are a number of Indian/Pakistani restaurants in Itaewon. A curry is around ₩15,000, and a few do buffets which are around ₩20,000.
* Fast food. Itaewon has a McDonalds, Burger King, KFC, Kraze Burger, Quiznos, and Taco Bell.
* Nashville steakhouse. Prices are around ₩25,000.

### Mid-range

* 37.541977126.9874711 Jacoby's, Haebangcheon (Noksapyeong Station, line 5, exit north toward Namsan tunnel. When you reach a large intersection, look for kimchi pots on the left side of the street, next to the Yongsan Garrison wall. Head up that side street, continue walking up the hill. On the right up the street, about 400 m past the kimchi pots). Offers a wide variety of burgers, arguably the best for the value, in Seoul. In an area often known as the foreigner ghetto, a popular area for expats who live just west of Itaewon.
* Pattaya, Itaewon (Itaewon Station, exit 1. Walk 50 m. Turn right at the KFC and walk to the end of the alley. Turn left and walk 70 m past the 3 Alley Pub). Thai restaurant, and perhaps the best in Seoul. With a menu featuring nearly 100 different items, you're bound to find your favorite dishes and make some new ones, too. Stir-fried rice and noodle dishes cost ₩13,000-18,000, while curry pots and stews can run over ₩30,000.
* Zelen, Itaewon (Turn right at the KFC at the Hamilton Hotel. Follow the small alley until the end and turn left. Again walk to the end and take the stairs heading up). Fantastic Bulgarian restaurant featuring lots of stuffed everything - from tomatoes to mushrooms, peppers and chicken breasts. Well-worth it as it is unique to the dining landscape in Seoul. ₩15,000-20,000.
* Don Charly, 650 Itaewon-Dong, 2nd Fl (Noksapyeong Station, Exit 2, 5-10 min walk on the main road, look for it in yellow on the 2nd floor on the right side of the street, just past a big Thai restaurant also on the 2nd floor), ☏ +82 70-4219-4475, doncharly@naver.com. dinner hours, sometimes closed for lunch. Not a Tex-Mex place: the front of the menu is a Spanish-language rant on that issue. This little "hole in the wall" will be something different for a lot of people. Portions are small, but that enables you to try a wider variety. Huge tequila menu; the Agavero is strongly recommended for dessert. ₩10,000.

## Drink
### Itaewon

Itaewon is Seoul's international district, with a wide variety of Western-styled venues to eat, drink and be merry. Since many foreigners congregate there, Itaewon remains somewhat of a niche nightlife area for Koreans interested in a more international scene. A number of notable bars and clubs spot the area, both on the main street and in the nearby alleys. Long notorious for being somewhat seedy, with prostitutes plying their trade and alleged (gasp!) drug dealings, Itaewon has become cleaner and more gentrified. Of course, this is by Korean standards—Western travellers, especially American travellers, will wonder what all the fuss is about. Due to Itaewon's proximity to the nearby United States Army base, many GIs are found here in the evenings and weekends. However, the US army has decided to move the base outside of Seoul within the next few years, so expect regular changes to the area.

#### Bars and pubs

Many bars in Itaewon celebrate Thursdays as Ladies' Night, which often means that women drink free before 24:00. There are also a few gay bars two alleys east of the main street, with a mix of clubs and places to drink.
* Bless U. Another older expat haunt. You better be good with your pool game or you'll be waiting in a long line to go again. Darts are also available. They have great popcorn and decent draft beers.
* Burn, 11 Hoenamu-ro, Itaewon 2(i)-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, South Korea (Gyeongnidan-gil, north side of the street, before you start going up the hill; it's on the 2nd floor). Cigar bar with a huge selection of liquor, especially Scotch; live music almost every night; friendly, sociable place to meet other expats and Hal, the one-of-a-kind man who owns the place. Shots of whiskey from ₩20,000 up, cigars from ₩20,000 to ₩50,000, food too expensive to think about.
* Dillinger's (in the alley behind Geckos across from Quiznos/Family Mart). Serves draught and bottled beers and good food. Wednesday night is Wing Night, where 10 wings go for ₩4,000. Sports played on a number of big screens, plus lounge/club upstairs.
* Helios. Seedy hip-hop club with a bit of a reputation.
* Hollywood (up the road from the Hamilton). A sports bar with a pool table, darts, a golf arcade game and several TVs airing all kinds of sports (including Premier League matches and major sporting events). Reportedly Nigerians and American soldiers have been banned here.
* Metro. A lot of older expats and many Koreans hit up this joint. Only one Korean beer on tap, but free pool. The front (or right side when you go up the stairs) seems to be for the expat crowd, while the back (the left door when you go up the stairs) seems to be more hof style for the Korean crowd. They have the typical range of snacks available and free peanuts for beer drinkers.
* Old Town (halfway up Hooker Hill). This is the bar/club that gets full when all the bars close. It is at its busiest between 04:00 and 08:00. Hard to miss, as it'll be the place that has everyone lounging around in various states in the very early hours of the morning. Not for the faint-hearted!
* The Rose & Crown. London-style pub with great fish and chips and interior decoration. Darts and sports on the big screen available.
* Sam Ryan's Sports Bar & Grill (above the 3 Alley Pub). This is the best sports bar in Seoul for North American sports. It shows numerous sports throughout the year on replay, sometimes live. There are TVs everywhere including the restrooms! Darts in the corner. Kitchen is extraordinary, excellent menu. The drink selection is great, better than most in Itaewon besides the 3 Alley Pub. The English-speaking staff is friendly as well, they still run a tight ship though. A terrace in the back enables one to get away from all the noise. Rib night is Tuesday.
* Seoul Pub (on the main street, 2nd floor, opposite the Hamilton Hotel). Cheap beer, good atmosphere, a pool table, darts and Guinness on tap. It is quite dingy though, and badly needs a renovation, so probably a place for a session rather than a quiet pint with the missus!

#### Nightclubs

For some good house and trance music, try some places such as:
* B1's (around the corner from KFC). An electro house club.
* Club Volume. House and trance club, a quite large and excellent crowd on weekends. It is the best and most upscale club in the neighborhood.
* Del Disco. Reportedly a gay club.
* King Club. Gaudy and a tad sleazy. Located in a seedy part of the neighborhood.
* Pulse. Gay dance club.

### Haebangchon

* Craftworx (across Haebangchon in the Gyeongnidan area). Find the NOXA bar and walk past it two or three stores down. No pool or darts, but the best on tap beer you'll find in Korea. Seriously.
* Phillies. A bar and grill that has changed ownership several times. Beer prices are par and food is OK.

## Sleep
### Budget

* 37.52731126.964661 Dragon Hill Spa and Resort (드래곤힐스파), Yongsan-gu (From Yongsan Subway/KTX Station Exit 1, turn right and walk about 50 m. Pass under the 24 hr neon clock. If you see an armed military guy peeping out from behind sandbags, you've gone a little too far. Passed by the Seoul City Tour Bus.), ☏ +82 2-792-0001 (Main Desk), +82 18 223-0002 (English). If you have never been to a jjimjilbang then this is perhaps a good place to start. A little on the pricey side for a bathhouse but the premises is modern, gaudily theme-decorated and incredibly tourist-oriented. Extensive signage exists in English, Chinese and Japanese as well as dedicated multilingual staff, even in the dead of night. Has the usual array of spas, saunas, heated sleeping rooms and Korean restaurants plus a small Japanese-style game arcade, screen golf, swimming pool (swimwear required), terrace restaurant and outdoor cinema on the roof. You can also have your photo taken in traditional Korean attire if you so desire. Sleeping mats are in short supply in line with Korea's favorite running gag, but headrest cubes and blankets are unusually available by request from the locker room attendant with a very hefty deposit: be sure to guard them well in the wee hours. All expenses incurred are charged to a wrist tag and paid for upon departure. Oversize luggage storage available and promise of a Capsule Hotel in the near future. This jjimjilbang eschews the usual sauna vs. stay distinction in favor of a simpler ₩12,000 for 12 hr access rule.

### Mid-range

* Hamilton Hotel (해밀튼 호텔) (next to the Itaewon subway station). A landmark in the heart of the Itaewon shopping district. Nice rooms, stay here to help reduce culture shock.
* Noble Hotel (호텔 노블 용산), 서울특별시 용산구 한강로동 새창로 209, ☏ +82 2 790-2700. Check-in: 0800, check-out: 1200. The exterior looks old, but the interior is neat and tidy. It is very close to Yongsan Station and it is very easy to move to other places. ₩72000. (updated Sep 2019)
* 37.540309126.9721752 Hotel Elle Inn (호텔엘르인), 24 Hangang-daero 71-gil, ☏ +82 2 792 8700. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. (updated Dec 2023)

### Splurge

* Grand Hyatt Seoul (그랜드하얏트 서울), 747-7 Hannam 2-Dong, Yongsan-Ku, info.grandhyattseoul@hyattintl.com. Set amidst landscaped gardens with good views over the city. Full service spa.

## Connect

As with elsewhere in the capital, there are plenty of PC Rooms available.