# Buenos Aires/Centro

The center (centro) of Buenos Aires has most of the city's attractions, including performances (especially on Avenida Corrientes) in the Tribunales theater district, the dense downtown area with government buildings, the San Telmo tango scene, and the biggest train station and the general bus station that offers connections to the surrounding provinces and neighboring countries.

## Understand

The San Telmo district preserves colonial-style houses along narrow cobblestone lanes, illuminated with pretty wrought iron lanterns. In San Telmo, one breathes the history of Buenos Aires. There is also a very exciting, underground nightlife scene.
Just like the London docklands, the antique port of Buenos Aires (Puerto Madero) has been renewed and now represents the latest architectural trends of the city. It has a mixture of restaurants, ranging from high end to U.S. chains such as Hooters and TGIF. It also has apartment buildings and a few expensive hotels. The Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, an excellent option for nature lovers, lies nearby.
The Retiro neighborhood hosts the main train station in the city, a busy area filled with commuters, but also home to some of the most luxurious restaurants, shopping, and partying, in the expat-friendly border of Microcentro. Retiro has attracted people from various kinds of lifestyles, without any strong attraction for any specific group of people.

## Get in
### By Subte

All the Subte lines start from around Plaza de Mayo.

### By bus

Buses 33 and 45 from Retiro station connect to the Aeroparque Jorge Newbery.

## See

* -34.601083-58.3830831 Teatro Colón. Considered one of the top 5 opera houses in the world, it was closed for many years due to remodeling. The theater is now opened to the public, and it's a must-see when in Buenos Aires. (updated Sep 2017)
* -34.602167-58.385752 Palacio de Justicia (Palace of Justice of the Argentine Nation). Designed by French arquitect Norbert Maillart. Built 1905-1910, it is where the Supreme Court resides. (updated Sep 2017)
* -34.6069-58.38543 Pasaje Rivarola (From Palacio de Justicia, walk 3 blocks along Talcahuano street in the same direction as cars until you reach Tte. Gral Juan Domingo Perón street. At this point, turn right and walk 20 meters.). A beautiful hidden gem in Buenos Aires. It was built in a way that buildings on one side are a 'mirror' of the ones in front of them. You'll also find 'Casa Raab', an antique clock shop, featuring a nice old watch that complements really well with the atmosphere of the street. (updated Sep 2017)
* -34.609864-58.3926924 Palacio del Congreso (Congress Building), Av. Rivadavia 1864. Open for tours.
* -34.609667-58.3901675 Plaza de Congreso (Congressional Plaza) (Immediately in front of the congress building). Contains some interesting sculpture, including a copy of Rodin's Thinker. (updated May 2016)
* -34.608056-58.3702786 $^{[deadlink]}$ Casa Rosada, Balcarce 50. The Argentine equivalent to the White House in the U.S. Plaza de Mayo is in front of it, and there are several noteworthy buildings around the plaza, including the National Bank and Bank Museum, and the Metropolitan Cathedral. (updated May 2016)
* -34.60376-58.381627 Obelisco. From its base is a good vantage point for Avenida 9 de Julio, which at 22 total lanes is the widest street in the Americas.
* -34.608889-58.3922228 Confitería del Molino (Located just in front of Palacio del Congreso, to the right). This art nouveau coffeehouse (now closed) used to be the meeting point for many cultural and political figures. The coffeehouse was built in 1917 and closed in 1997, year in which was declared National Historic Monument. (updated Sep 2017)
* -34.608556-58.38759 Teatro Liceo (Located in the corner of Rivadavia with Parana). Opened in 1876, is one of the oldest theaters in the city. Its original name was "El Dorado". Eva Peron, before entering the political scene, performed once when she was a young actress. (updated Sep 2017)
* -34.603892-58.37951110 Confiteria Ideal, Suipacha 384. A famous tango venue featured in many films. The building has beautiful architecture, and there are tango lessons and Milongas (dance parties) offered there daily. (updated Sep 2017)
* -34.609556-58.38586111 Palacio Barolo, Av. de Mayo 1370. Don't miss this architectural gem in Buenos Aires, designed in accordance with the cosmology of the Divine Comedy. Reserve a guided tour in advance (night or day) and enjoy one of the best views of Buenos Aires. If you do not book a tour, they will not let you into the lower floor. However, try to sneak in with another tour or head in, asking for a tour. The tour counter is on the other side of the lower floor, so enough time to see the lower floor and take pictures. (updated Feb 2018)
* -34.608056-58.37444412 Casa de la Cultura (Buenos Aires House of Culture), Av. de Mayo 575. This is the Government Cultural House of Buenos Aires. Check out the "Salon Dorado", which design is inspired by the Palace of Versailles. Also, the Salon Dorado hosts music performers every Friday 19:00. (updated Sep 2017)
* Libreria La Calesita, Av. de Mayo 769. Don't miss this antique bookstore with plenty of toys dating back to more than 50 years ago. It looks like it has been freezed over time. Jose Luis, who has been working here for more than 20 yeats, will give you advise and recommend you books according to your interests. (updated Sep 2017)
* -34.615-58.387613 La Botica del Angel, Luis Sáenz Peña 541. Church/Old House that offers guided tours and where many cultural events take place. It is considered one of the places where "cafe concert" started. (updated Sep 2017)
* -34.607408-58.37327814 Catedral Metropolitana, San Martin 42 (close to Casa Rosada). A neoclassical cathedral containing the tomb of José de San Martín.
* -34.591389-58.37472215 Retiro railway station. The old train station, built by the British empire and formerly the starting point of the Patagonia Express.
* -34.594444-58.37516 Plaza San Martín. A beautiful park outside the train station, next to the plaza of the air force
* Carlos Regazzoni art factory/atelier. Carlos Regazzoni, a recognized Argentine artist, lives in Retiro in a warehouse where he also has his atelier. He mainly creates art sculptures using the available iron and train parts that is spread among the area, due to the proximity to the train station (check the iron ants climbing the big sign close to the entrance). The ambiance of the place is not something that most visitors will like; although Carlos is very friendly and likes to talk and talk with those who are interested in his work. If you're interested in going, check before if he's in the country, as he spends 6 months in France and 6 months in Argentina. At night (not every day), the warehouse where he works becomes a restaurant, El Gato Viejo, attended by himself. (updated Sep 2017)
* -34.595417-58.37466717 Edificio Kavanagh, Florida 1065. It is considered as the first skyscraper built in Buenos Aires. The story behind the construction of the building is interesting: Corina Kavanagh had a fight with another lady, Mercedes de Anchorena, both from Buenos Aires high society. Corina's daughter was about to get married with Mercedes son, but because of Corina's opposition to the wedding, it never happened. As a revenge, Corina spent all her inheritance in building what would become the tallest South American building of that period. The reason: Block the sunrise and the view to the Sacramento Church from the Anchorena's home. It was declared as national historic monument in 1999. (updated May 2016)
* -34.596111-58.377518 Palacio Paz (Paz Palace) (In front of Plaza San Martin). Built between 1904 and 1912, it is the main site for the Military Circle in Buenos Aires. It used to be the residence of Jose C. Paz, who died two years before the palace was finished. Highly recommended to take the guided tour inside the palace. Check the website for more details. (updated Sep 2017)
* -34.610556-58.37444419 Manzana de las Luces (Illuminated Block). This block, surrounded by the streets Alsina, Moreno, Peru and Bolivar, is home to many of the most importants and traditional educational, religious and cultural institutions of Buenos Aires, dating back to the 17th and 18th century. The name of this block comes from the number of intellectual institutions that were present in the old days. One of the most interesting attractions is a mysterious subterranean network of tunnels that communicates each building. (updated Sep 2017)
* -34.619528-58.37283220 Mercado San Telmo (San Telmo Market). Daily market housed in a huge wrought-iron hall. Everything from fresh basil to antique shoes and coins is on display in this permanent marketplace. Come during the week to see the local produce and meat market. On Sunday, when the action is outside, it's mostly empty.
* -34.620556-58.37166721 Plaza Dorrego. The second oldest plaza in Buenos Aires, six days a week the plaza is a relatively quiet, shady space lined with restaurants and cafes. On Sundays an antiques market takes over and you can hardly see the plaza for the people and market stalls. The stalls get cleared away from about 17:00, and from 20:00 there is public dancing, including tango. (updated Sep 2017)
* -34.626944-58.37055622 Museo Histórico Nacional, 1600 Defensa. Tu-Su 12:00–18:00. History of Argentina, but all captions are in Spanish and neither comprehensive nor well-organised. Entry by donation.
* Pasaje San Lorenzo. Walking along Balcarce street, before arriving to Av. Independencia, you'll see the street "San Lorenzo". One of the interesting things to see, is the narrowest house in the neighborhood, among the street, which is very pleasant. Also, between San Lorenzo and Av. Independencia, in Balcarce street, you'll find the Almacen Don Manolo. For those who know Mafalda, almacen Don Manolo is where Mafalda used to go for shopping. The store in Balcarce street nº 774 is actually the one from which Quino inspired for the cartoon. (updated Sep 2017)
* El Zanjon de Granados. The most important architectural building in San Telmo and one of the most important of the city. It has nearly 500 years of history. Check the website for more info.
* -34.607939-58.36491123 Puente de la Mujer. A beautiful pedestrian suspension bridge. (updated Sep 2017)
* -34.5925-58.36805624 Hotel de Inmigrantes.
* -34.59176-58.38251725 French Embassy Palace, Cerrito 1399 (Just at the beginning of Av. Alvear). One of the most beautiful buildings in Buenos Aires. During the year, some times there are "open doors" events so you can visit the building inside. Ask for guided tours. (updated Sep 2017)
* -34.619453-58.37142226 Casa de Esteban de Luca, 383 Carlos Calvo St.. Once inhabited by the Argentine poet, soldier, Esteban de Luca. (updated Jan 2018)
* -34.608858-58.37375627 Cabildo of Buenos Aires, Bolívar 65, ☏ +54 11 4342-6729, consultas@cabildonacional.gob.ar. W-Su 10:30-18:00. During colonial times, this building served as the government house of Viceroyalty of the Río de la Plata. Today, the building, now a museum, is much smaller than it once was, due to the construction of 2 avenues. (updated Apr 2023)

## Do

* Find a theater show on Avenida Corrientes
* -34.598889-58.3838061 Teatro Cervantes, Libertad 815, ☏ +54 11 4816 4224. (updated Sep 2017)
* See the Theater Museum at Teatro Cervantes
* Walk along Avenida de Mayo: Buenos Aires is one of those cities where the best way to get immersed into it is by walking, walking and walking. With Plaza de Mayo as it starting point, Avenida de Mayo offers a beautiful walk tour. Here you will find many historical buildings, like the traditional Cafe Tortoni, or the impressive Palacio Barolo (which offers one of the best views of Buenos Aires, ask for the guided tour).
* Tango San Telmo is the heart of the "tourist tango" scene with a dozen different venues offering $30 dinner-and-show combos to the tourbus crowd. While it might be a good spot to get your feet wet, you'll have a more authentic experience elsewhere.
* Learn the art of Fileteado. Or dance Tango at La Independencia, Independencia Avenue Nº 572, San Telmo
* Take Tango classes. Each day at Centro Cultural Torquato Tasso - Defensa 1575, San Telmo
* Puerto Madero is a great place for a walk. All along the way there is a display of impressive cow art.
* Reserva Ecológica Castenera Sur. An expansive park and wildlife preserve popular with hikers, joggers, and bird watchers.
* Take a ferry to Uruguay and other destinations from the Buquebus ferry terminal at Darsena Norte

## Learn

* -34.614882-58.3728681 Foto Ruta photography experiences, Calle Mexico 476, Palermo Hollywood, ☏ +54 15 333 17980. A great way to experience the real Buenos Aires and learn how to take more creative photos. This is a sociable photography experience that will get you exploring the city's lesser known and more genuine barrios at prices from US$45 to a couple of hundred, depending on the chosen 'ruta'.
* -34.609101-58.3744482 Academia Buenos Aires, Hipolito Yrigoyen 571, ☏ +54 11 4345-5954. offers Spanish courses on all levels starting every Monday, year-round. The school is centrally located on Plaza de Mayo and part of the TANDEM International network of independent language schools. Recommended by major guidebooks, this school also offers specialty Spanish courses, free volunteering, free extracurricular activities and the possibility to continue classes with their sister schools in Bariloche and Montevideo.
* -34.609497-58.3857773 Ailola Buenos Aires, Av. de Mayo 1370, ☏ +54 11 4383-7706. Founded in 2005. This Spanish school is in the Palacio Barolo in the city center of Buenos Aires and offers Spanish courses for foreigners as well as internship, volunteering and TEFL certification programs. The school arranges accommodation and activities for its students. It has 9 classrooms.
* -34.605076-58.3709164 Universidad de Buenos Aires, Laboratorio de Idiomas, 25 de Mayo 221, ☏ +54 11 4343-5981.
* -34.609176-58.3778475 $^{[formerlydeadlink]}$ El Pasaje, 83 Piedras st., ☏ +54 11 5032-7428. A Spanish school where people from all around the world come to learn Spanish in a fun setting. The teachers are passionate about what they do and teach writing, listening, speaking and reading with enthusiasm and a sense of humor. Located in the heart of Buenos Aires, El Pasaje is a school with a fresh spirit.
* -34.602449-58.3707946 Expanish Spanish School, 4th Floor, 25 de Mayo 457, ☏ +54 11 5252-3040. A professional educational institute located in a beautiful building in the heart of downtown. They offer various Spanish courses (group, individual, focused), study abroad programs (Universidad de Belgrano, Universidad de Buenos Aires,Universidad Austral, Universidad Católica Argentina), Volunteer programs, TEFL courses, and Internship placements. All programs and courses are supplemented by cultural activities, skill workshops, and excursions throughout Argentina and Uruguay, as well as student support services.
* -34.601735-58.3912837 ONEonONE Argentina, Rodríguez Peña 617, ☏ +54 11 3528-4452. This school, which offers both Spanish and English classes as well as a translation service, is known for its personalized approach to teaching by creating tailor made programmes for students. Using only qualified teachers who are all native speakers, the school also offers an activity programme and accommodation options.
* -34.621379-58.3744038 Spanglish Exchange, Perú 1155, ☏ +54 11 5252-9523. Gives you the opportunity to practice what you are learning in class with native speakers.
* -34.614993-58.3915729 AISL, Av. Entre Ríos 510, ☏ +54 11 4381 7605. Offers small group lessons as well as private classes rotating teacher to expose the student to various teaching style. High-quality material, loads of extracurricular activities and a helpful bilingual administrative staff. Argentine Spanish is taught, but the differences to other dialects are explained and contained in the material. Also offers various forms of accommodation.
* Enforex (at the crossroads of the avenues “Mayo” and “9 de Julio,”). This is a satellite school from Spain. There is no mention as to whether they teach Spanish of Spain or if they follow Argentine Spanish. They are located in Microcentro and have a capacity for 200 students in 20 classrooms.

## Buy

* -34.607665-58.3749791 Florida. Main pedestrian street pf the city. It has a good variety of shops as well as street vendors. Good place to buy a souvenir and also to watch the street tango dancers and other performers. (updated Sep 2017)
* -34.599167-58.3747222 Galerías Pacífico, Avenida Cordoba. An upscale shopping mall, which is worth seeing even if you don't buy anything. On the top floors is the Centro Cultural Borges which usually has art on display. (updated Sep 2017)
* Sunday Market. Su 10:00-17:00. Plazza Dorrego and the outlying streets fill up with tonnes of craft and antique booths, supplementing the numerous antique shops, collectives, and malls in the area. You can get stamps, Judaica, tins, clothing, office equipment, chandeliers, furniture, paintings, etc. (updated Sep 2017)
* -34.6215-58.3714253 Pasaje La Defensa (Casa de los Ezeiza), Defensa street nº 1179. This used to be a tenement where poor families settled after a yellow fever hit Buenos Aires and made the richs to move to the north part of the city (today Recoleta and Retiro). It has been restored and today it has some antique shops. (updated Sep 2017)
* El Solar de French, Defensa street nº 1066. In the old days this building was Domingo French's house. Today it has leather shops, silver souvenirs, among other typical stuff from Argentina. (updated Sep 2017)
* -34.61845-58.374734 Walrus Books, Estados Unidos 617. Tu-Su 12:00-20:00. Sells new and used English language books and also buys used ones for about 1/3 of the price they sell them for. (updated Sep 2017)

## Eat

Defensa and its side streets, especially Chile, offer everything from Thai to gourmet ice cream with plenty of parrillas and bares y cafes notables (historic bars and cafes).
You will find the prices in Puerto Madero much higher than in the rest of the city—you're paying for location. Sometimes they are worth the price, sometimes not. Fixed price menus (three courses, called executive menu or "menu ejecutivo" in Spanish) can be had with drink and coffee for about €6.25; these restaurants have outside seating areas with excellent views of the dársenas, the Fragata Sarmiento and the old European-style warehouses.

### Budget

* -34.61614-58.3734251 Abuela Pan, Chile 518. It feels cosy, homey. It’s off the tourist frenzy. Amazing authentic home-made cooking. A wonderful vegetarian restaurant with great food and service. Try the Giant espanada. The food is made with full of love. Service is friendly. (updated Jan 2023)
* -34.617541-58.3717012 Pirilo, Defensa 821. You can feel so much history and love for food in this place. Tiny place with an old atmosphere. One of the most stubbornly traditional pizzerias left in the city. While you can order whole pizzas, the main draw is the pizza sold by the slice at the counter. (updated Jan 2023)
* -34.608165-58.3775743 Churrasquería Buenos Aires, Rivadavia 785. The attention is excellent as is the quality of its products. A fantastic variety on the menu. Homemade and fresh flavor. The lentil dish is very good. Generous portions. The food is delivered quickly. Excellent treatment by all the staff. (updated Jan 2023)
* -34.61911-58.3729324 Nuestra Parrilla, Bolívar 950. Always a great vibe and atmosphere. The choripan to be loved. You can find this place by following that mouth-watering smell. It’s a very small and unassuming (maybe even intimidating?) place with some of the best meat+fire combinations. The service is very friendly and they take such pride in making sure you have a good meal. (updated Jan 2023)
* -34.619324-58.3698655 Parrilla Bar Polo, Carlos Calvo 287. Very good local restaurant specializing in beef. Great atmosphere. The staff is friendly. Steak and fries are very good. Enjoy the local experience. Hole-in-the-wall with perfectly acceptable grilled meat. Try the vacío, it'll melt in your mouth. (updated Jan 2023)
* -34.614199-58.3731926 Lo de Nestor Bar cooperativa, Bolívar 548. Great place, people and atmosphere. The service and attention is excellent. The dishes are super abundant. An endearing place with a lot of mystique. Beautiful decoration. It is a friendly place. There are dishes of the day. The place works as a cooperative. (updated Jan 2023)
* -34.602017-58.3796197 Veggie Medio Oriente, Suipacha 532. M–F 11:00–21:00, Sa 11:00–17:00. Very tasty and they serve plenty. Best vegan meal. The vegiebomba is super delicious. Good quality and large portions. Menu with creative and tasty options. Great Middle Eastern food. Excellent attention. (updated Nov 2022)

### Mid-range

* -34.597787-58.3853688 El Cuartito Pizza, Talcahuano 937, ☏ +54 11 4816-1758. One of the traditional pizzerias of Buenos Aires, since 1934 El Cuartito maintains most of its original environment and quality in their food. Don't miss the 'fugazzeta rellena con jamon' (fugazzeta with the crust filled with ham), it's delicious. You can go and eat inside, or ask for delivery (they deliver up to 23:30, ask for covered zone). (updated Sep 2022)
* -34.604198-58.3859919 Pizzería Güerrin, Av. Corrientes 1368, ☏ +54 11 4371-8141. Similar to El Cuartito, very traditional, local noisy atmosphere, not very expensive. The place is best known for the muzzarella pizza, although you'll find other types as well. You can order a portion along with a glass of moscato. (updated Sep 2022)
* -34.601053-58.39161710 Parrilla Peña, Rodríguez Pena 682, ☏ +54 11 4371-5643. This is probably the best place in BA to try an "asado de tira" (ribs), the most traditional piece of an Argentine asado. You can also try other different meat cuts, but the "tira de asado" is the distinctive dish. A waiter said the "porcion de tira" is enough for three or more whereas the single tira (una tira), together with some fries or salad was enough for two. Be aware that if you order a "parrillada", the cuts for the "asado" are completely different, they don't even taste the same. (updated Sep 2022)
* -34.596877-58.37414511 Dadá Bistro, San Martín 941, ☏ +54 11 4314-4787. This small restaurant makes the top lists among locals, and is a highly recommended one in tourist guides. Try the Lomo Dadá, one of the house specialities. Recommended to arrive before 21:00, otherwise you'll have to wait. (updated Sep 2022)
* -34.618808-58.36518912 Siga la Vaca, Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 1714 (All cab drivers seem to know where it is), ☏ +54 11 4315-6801. A must-visit restaurant while in Puerto Madero. You eat cheaper on week days lunch than on weekends, and get unlimited salad, pasta, meat, and bottled water. Also included in the price are one bottle of red wine and one dessert per person. Not very popular among locals. (updated Sep 2022)
* The Gibraltar, Calle Perú 895 near Estados Unidos, ☏ +54 11 4362-5310. A rare find in Buenos Aires featuring spicy dishes including Thai green chicken curry and a beef jalfrezi curry. Beyond the smoky pool table in the back is an outdoor seating area. Gibraltar is also a good drinking spot and serves good imported beer on tap and on cask. (updated Sep 2022)
* Desnivel, Defensa between Estados Unidos and Av. Independencia. "Parrilla" at an excellent price, but the surroundings and presentation are sub-par. If you can't tear yourself away from shopping long enough to sit down, you can get choripan and sandwich de lomito to go starting at $2. (updated Sep 2022)
* Cafe San Juan, 450 San Juan, ☏ +54 11-4300-1112. Very nice meals at somewhat higher than average prices. A reservation is recommended.
* -34.616126-58.37437413 Gran Parrilla Del Plata, 594 Chile. +54 11-4300-8858. Good food at less than average prices.
* -34.603714-58.38949714 Sattva, Montevideo 446, ☏ +54 11 4374-5125. Vegetarian/vegan.

### Splurge

* -34.603803-58.36678815 Cabaña Las Lilas, Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 516, ☏ +54 11 4313-1336. Probably the best place to eat meat in the Puerto Madero neighborhood. It's a highly rated restaurant among travel guides and sites, although not a local's favorite. Don't miss the ojo de bife! This place had the reputation of being the best place to eat steak in Buenos Aires. The steaks are enormous and succulent. If you eat here, count on them having to roll you out as you will be near explosion (probably best to wear trousers with elasticated waists!) It's a constant struggle not to stuff yourself with the mouth watering appetizers before your steak even arrives. When it does, you may chuckle at the little plastic cow figurine jabbed into the meat, smiling at you and bearing the words “Estoy jugoso," - "I am juicy" (meaning rare). You can also share an order of steak, which the restaurant will serve on separate plate. The doneness is different in Argentina than in the U.S., for medium rare, order rare. (updated Sep 2022)
* -34.602421-58.36695316 Happening Puerto Madero, Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 310 (caba), ☏ +54 11 4319-8712. (updated Sep 2022)

## Drink

* -34.608667-58.378251 Cafe Tortoni, At Av De Mayo 825. Opened in 1858, one of the most traditional coffee houses in Buenos Aires. It has been restored to its original style, which dates back to 150 years ago. It was a cultural meeting point of many famous people, like Borges, Quinquela Martin, Molina Campos, among others. The hot chocolate is incredible.
* -34.608424-58.3747822 Confiteria London City, Av. de Mayo 599. A London-style bar. The original building was completely destroyed by a huge fire. It was rebuilt and opened again in 1954. Good place to stop by for a coffee before continue your walk along Av. de Mayo.
* Bar Iberia, at the corner of Av. de Mayo and Salta street. After cafe Tortoni, Bar Iberia is the second oldest bar in Buenos Aires. It represents an historical significance for the city, since It used to be the meeting point for the Spanish immigrants representing the 'republicans' during the civil war in Spain. In the corner in front of it, it is located Cafe Español, the meeting point for the opposite group of the republicans: those representing the Francoism. Today, Bar Iberia has been restored in a way to maintain most of its original façade.
* -34.610207-58.3723813 La Puerto Rico, Alsina 416. One of the most popular coffee shops among locals, not touristy. It has been declared a "Site of Cultural Interest" by the Government of Argentina.
* -34.596014-58.3729564 The Kilkenny, Marcelo T. de Alvear 399, ☏ +54 11 4312-7291. (updated May 2016)
* -34.613795-58.3730335 $^{[deadlink]}$ Krakow Café Bar (Krakow Pub), Venezuela 474, San Telmo/Monserrat (betw.Defensa & Bolivar), ☏ +54 11 4342 3916. Su-Th 18:00-03:00, F Sa to 05:00. This popular pub offers the best selection of tap beers in San Telmo, a huge variety of cocktails and top shelf liquors in a beautiful period location. Great European menu includes moderately priced tapas, picadas, pizzas, hamburgers and mains. An international crowd enjoys a large projection screen for sport events, Nintendo Wii, board games, free WiFi and comfortable sofas in the living room/club section of the pub. The staff is multilingual and modern music is kept at the right volume. Happy Hour is every day till 22:00.
* -34.617845-58.3703046 Pride Cafe, Balcarce and Pasaje Giuffra. Modern decor and an outdoor seating area. Gay themed show on Thursday evenings. Open until 23:00, later on show nights.
* Bar Britanico, Brasil and Defensa. Historical, pleasant bar notable -- a great place for a drink.
* Bar El Hipopótamo, Brasil and Defensa. A beautifully decorated bar and cafe that also serves food (light snacks mostly). Very pleasant.
* -34.601988-58.3717767 Bahrein, Lavalle 345, Microcentro (Metro Line B, station Florida), ☏ +54 11 4315-2403. One of the trendiest clubs in Buenos Aires with a good selection of electronic music. Tuesdays are popular among locals, with accelerated drum & bass rhythms. Thursdays are also a good option. The club is located within an old bank building, check the vault in the bottom floor.
* -34.595065-58.3871018 El Alamo (Al's Moe), Uruguay 1175, Recoleta, ☏ +54 11 4813 7324. Free beer for girls M-F until 23:00 and cheap prices all the time. Satellite quality feed on 10 large flat screen TVs.
* -34.593335-58.3844149 Jack the Ripper, Libertad 1275, ☏ +54 1148167508. London style pub in the heart of Recoleta.

## Sleep

San Telmo is chock full of hostels and budget hotels making it an affordable option with easy access to downtown. Every other doorway along Carlos Calvo and Chile seems to be a hostel, so that's a good place to start if you show up without a reservation. Another option for sleeping arrangements is renting an apartment. There are a ton of apartments for rent in the San Telmo area and you can find very reasonable rates on furnished apartments.

### Budget

* -34.614364-58.3903071 Hostel Estacion Buenos Aires, Solis 458, ☏ +54 11-4381-0734, info@hostelestacionbuenosaires.com. A short walk from the Obelisk, Estación Buenos Aires Hostel offers budget, shared and private accommodations with a 24-hr reception desk. Wi-Fi is free. A continental breakfast is served every morning at the Estación Buenos Aires. There is also a bar for evening drinks. Rates start at US$11 (Dorms for 4 and 6 people).
* Arahaus Hostel, México 1482, ☏ +54 11 4382 8375, hebegar.c@gmail.com. A sweet home located on Calle Mexico, Congreso (at the south end of centro). This is a converted apartment with just a few nice rooms. Free internet and a TV in the front room. It is run by a really nice chica called Hebe, who will make you feel at home, and it is cheap (current prices are: US$20 per night for a double room as of Feb. 2011). Hebe actually prefers to host students who will stay for several weeks or months (prices then get cheaper) but is open to one or just a few nights. Anyway, it is definitely worth checking out for a tranquil stay in Buenos Aires.
* -34.614483-58.3775982 Art Factory Hostel, Piedras 545, ☏ +54 11 4343-1463. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. With more private rooms than most hostels and with each one painted and designed by local and international artists, this converted 1870s mansion attracts young backpackers from all over the world, families on a budget as well as Argentinians visiting Buenos Aires. The vibe is lively, but not hectic or loud, intimate but without plenty of room to stretch out. A rooftop bar features local musicians, art openings and cheap beer. Weekly asados, or beef BBQs, occur every week on the large terrace. The best and grooviest hostel staff in Buenos Aires. From US$11.
* -34.618821-58.3700883 Babel Boutique Hotel, Balcarce 946, ☏ +54 11 4300-8300. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. Hotel Babel is a smart boutique hotel set in an historic mansion in San Telmo, the bohemian colonial quarter of Buenos Aires. Superb central location, privacy and comfort.
* El Firulete (Downtown), Maipu 208. Great spacious hostel in the Microcenter. Large lounge with TV and projector, Free internet, helpful staff, average breakfast. US$14 for a private room.
* Gran Hotel Espana (not to be confused with the Hispano), Tacuari 80 (Across from there is Hotel Uruguay). Rooms are nice, but typically will not have air conditioning.
* -34.621721-58.3816494 Hostel Sol, Lima 1169, at junction with San Juan (Across Av 9 de Julio from San Juan subte station), ☏ +54 11 43043019. Conveniently-located hostel with sociable staff and guests. Housed in a slightly old three-story building with Wi-Fi available both in the lobby and the rooms. Hot showers and computer terminals are available.
* Milhouse Hostel, Hipólito Yrigoyen Street 959, ☏ +54 11 4345-9604, +54 11 4343-5038. Backpackers' favorite right in the center. This huge hotel has internet facilities, and shared kitchen; also organizes many expensive tours and tango lessons. Definitely a party place though and the atrium reverberates sound, making it very noisy and not an ideal place to sleep. Has a fingerprint door entry system and surveillance. Note that you have to pay your stay in advance and they do not give refunds if you decide to leave earlier than planned.
* Pax Hostel (Pax Hostel Buenos Aires), Salta 990, ☏ +54 11 4305-1400.
* -34.612834-58.378825 Rayuela Hostel, Av. Belgrano 887 Rayuela, ☏ +54 11 4342 5951. It is very homey and fun, with big rooms w/AC, hot water 24 hours a day, and a common room stocked with statellite TV, Dvds, a pool table, ping-pong table, tea and coffee machines comfy couches. Hands-on owners who love to help. Very clean and fun. Minihostels members get 10% off their stay.
* -34.616026-58.3745816 Ayres Porteños, Perú 708, near Av. Independencia, ☏ +54 11 4300-7314. Check-out: 10:00. Quirky tango themed hostel with spacious rooms and a social atmosphere. Possibly the best breakfast you'll ever have in a hostel. Not a quiet hostel, can be loud at night due to buses and festive guests.
* -34.60421-58.3752837 Hostel Suites Florida, Florida 328, ☏ +54 11-4393-1397, info@hostelsuites.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. Centrally located on Florida Street, the city's major tourist pedestrian road. A few meters from the famous Corrientes Avenue, heart of porteño culture. A few blocks away from 9 de Julio Avenue and just steps from main transportation. Attached to a bar/restaurant which sometimes offers a free small dinner (with purchase of a drink) to hostel guests. Very large lockers, free breakfast if you book through their site, and all rooms possess private bathrooms, heating and air conditioning. (updated Nov 2017)
* $^{[deadlink]}$ Hostel Suites Obelisco, Corrientes 830, ☏ +54 11 4328-4040, obelisco@hostelsuites.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00.
* -34.620762-58.3722338 Hotel Residencial Carly, Humberto 466, San Telmo (just off Plaza Dorrego), ☏ +54 11 4361-7710. Cheap and clean rooms for long/short term stays. Friendly staff.
* El Hostal de San Telmo, Carlos Calvo 614 (just off Plaza Dorrego), ☏ +54 11 300 9028. Clean. Kitchen. Wifi and 1 computer for guests. Decent breakfast. Good atmosphere. Barbecue on the roof. From US$8.
* $^{[formerlydeadlink]}$ The Hostel-Inn Buenos Aires, Humberto 1º 820, ☏ +54 11 4300-7992. This hostel is in the heart of San Telmo, right next to the famous Plaza Dorrego. It offers a shared-kitchen, a DVD room, free internet and weekly organised asados. Its location in this bohemian barrio means that most sights are in walking distance!
* Gardenhouse Hostel, ☏ +54 11 4304-1824. Ave. San Juan 1271 (San Telmo);. With only 16 beds, a tiny but pleasant hostel, it takes only an hour to know all guests. It is located at the outskirts of San Telmo close to the San Juan metro station. Has an outdoor terrace, but conversation is hard due to the noise of the nearby highway. A dorm bed comes with breakfast.
* Hostel Nomade, Carlos Calvo 430 (just off Plaza Dorrego). Housed in a renovated old mansion. It is frequently sold out. Decent breakfast of pastries, bread, butter, jams, dulce de leche, coffee, tea, and mate. Four dorms with 6 beds in each room, a quad and two double private rooms. Shared bathrooms, lockers. There is a nice rooftop terrace, a pool table, free internet, and friendly staff.
* Hostel Carlos Gardel, 500 block of Carlos Calvo (between Bolivar and Peru).
* Kilca Hostel, ☏ +54 11 43811966. Mexico 1545. Located in the upcoming Montserrat neighborhood, where there are few tourists and more local activity going on. This casual hostel also has an awesome vibe; it's in an early 1900s house, there's a funky kitchen and the small leafy courtyard is prime for relaxing. Rooms are lined around a small central patio, and some dorms have lofts. There are 30 beds, so it's pretty intimate, and occasional barbeques help stir the social scene further. Outside, a hammock or two are great for hanging around, and there's even a small bar area in the dining room.
* End of the World Hostel San Telmo, 818 Ave San Juan. Situated between two noisy streets and with equally noisy inhabitants, this cheapy is only for those spending the nights with tango and sleeping during the day.
* Che Lagarto, Venezuela #857, ☏ +54 11 4343-4845. South America's first private hostel chain with hostels in different locations throughout South America, including Buenos Aires. Located in the area of Plaza de Mayo-San, Telmo, the hostel offers inexpensive and good quality accommodation Rooms from US$12.
* Hostel San Telmo. Cheap but a bit cramped, creating the feel of a real family atmosphere, It is located in the middle of San Telmo close to restaurants, its a cheap place to hangout and get to know some interesting people!
* -34.599977-58.3794949 V&S Hostel Club, Viamonte 887 (500 meters from the Colón Theater, the Obelisco, pedestrian and commercial streets Florida and Lavalle, and Corrientes Avenue), ☏ +54 11 4322 0994, +54 11 4327 5131. The V&S Hostel Club is in a beautiful refurbished house whose history dates back to the 19th century. It is located in the heart of Buenos Aires and combines both the old with the new. The rates include daily maid service, luggage storage facilities, breakfast buffet style, sheets/blankets, individual bathrooms, heat and ceiling fans in all rooms.
* -34.60505-58.39206110 $^{[deadlink]}$ La Rocca Hostels, Ave Callao 341, ☏ +54 11 4372-8898. Safe, clean budget hostel. Complete with kitchens. Breakfast, Wi-Fi, internet and cleaning services all included in prices.

### Mid-range

* -34.59748-58.3726511 $^{[deadlink]}$ Hotel San Antonio, Paraguay 372, ☏ +54 11 5273-1200, ontacto@sanantonio372.com.ar. (updated May 2016)
* -34.60915-58.38053212 La Fresque Hotel, Avenida de Mayo 984, Buenos Aires, ☏ +54 11 4331 3615, info@lafresquehotel.com. Spacious rooms, vintage designed hotel. Room rates start at US$50.
* -34.5971-58.37437913 Hotel Diplomat, San Martin 918, ☏ +54 11 43 119370. All rooms equipped with Air-conditioning, TV with cable channels, Work desk and American breakfast. Some of its facilities and services are Room service, Bicycle rental, Airport transfer, car rental, Currency exchange Cafe and bar. Rates start at US$85.
* -34.617097-58.38449314 Alma del Plata, Santiago del Estero 727, ☏ +54 11 4381 5208. Superior room, plus room, premium room and suite, all equipped with air-conditioning, 26-inch LCD TV, and Free Wi-Fi Internet connection. Facilities and services are room service, Espacios del Alma business center, Cocina del Alma Restaurant. From US$95.
* -34.604498-58.39171415 Atlas Tower Hotel, Av. Corrientes 1778, ☏ +54 11 5217-9371. Modern hotel, well situated in Corientes/Callao, almost in front of Callao underground station. Staff are very kind and helpful. Free internet access from hotel's PC.
* -34.624206-58.37203516 $^{[deadlink]}$ The Cocker, Av. Juan de Garay 458, ☏ +54 11 4362-8451. From the look of their website, you'd think it would sit in the 'splurge' section, but at US$80–105 per room they're definitely mid-range. The place has been getting rave reviews everywhere, is right in the middle of San Telmo and run by a male English couple!
* -34.608693-58.3784517 Gran Hotel Hispano, Avenida de Mayo 861 (near Cafe Tortoni), ☏ +54 11 4345-2020. is per night. Rooms are arranged around an interior courtyard and there are three floors of rooms. You can use the gym on nearby Piedras if you stay here. There are some triples available, which overlook the Avenida de Mayo. Other rooms have doors overlooking the interior courtyard where you have the option of closing and locking your shutters, still allowing the air to flow through whilst maintaining privacy. Shutters also block the light and allow you to sleep in late if you wish. The hotel comes equipped with showers but no bathtubs.
* -34.599588-58.37974918 $^{[deadlink]}$ Hotel Goya, Suipacha 748, ☏ +54 11 4322-9269. Located in the heart of the microcentro this three-star hotel is a few blocks from the Florida pedestrian mall, a short walk from the central Retiro railway station and frequently has passing taxis where you can take a cheap cab ride to the surrounding suburbs. The superior rooms are worth the extra more than classic rooms by virtue of a larger, renovated bathroom. Friendly and helpful staff. Breakfast offers a large selection of very good pastries and cakes.
* -34.62096-58.36853719 Ribera Sur, Paseo Colón 1145 in San Telmo, ☏ +54 11 4361-7398. Small boutique hotel, complete with wheelchair access and a swimming pool. It is close to the market on Defensa and has friendly reception staff who help you with translations if you need them. Dinners served in its restaurant are priced the same as a normal parilla place but the food is up a notch. Free WiFi and computer at the lobby.

### Splurge

* -34.615941-58.3723320 San Telmo Luxury Suites, Chile 437, San Telmo, ☏ +54 11 4343-1888. San Telmo Luxury Suites offers junior, superior and executive suites with air-conditioning, plasma TV and mini-bar. Its facilities and services include free Wi-Fi, complimentary use of laptop, room service, personal shopper and trainer.
* -34.606936-58.39186321 Savoy Hotel, Av. Callao 181, ☏ +54 11 4370-8000. (updated May 2016)
* -34.613889-58.36166722 Faena Hotel, in the Puerto Madero district. Hotel with lots of bars in the lobby and a pool at the front.
* -34.590833-58.38277823 Four Seasons Hotel. Has a walled garden.
* -34.605833-58.36361124 Hilton Buenos Aires, Avenida Macacha Güemes 351, ☏ +54 11 4891 0000, reservations.buenosaires@hilton.com. Situated in Puerto Madero, the trendiest area in town, just like the London dockland, Hilton Hotel in Buenos Aires is a short walk to the financial district, tourist attractions, more than 70 restaurants and amazing nightlife, with quick access routes to both the domestic and international airports.
* -34.6033-58.37087725 NH Jousten, Avda. Corrientes, 280, ☏ +54 11 4321-6750. Built in the early 1900s, this hotel is perfectly situated in the heart of the city. Many well-known areas are in walking distance such as Puerto Madero, Plaza de Mayo and the famous Calle Florida street. The hotel contains a restaurant, bar and a gym. From US$166.
* -34.596111-58.37472226 $^{[deadlink]}$ Plaza Hotel Buenos Aires (previously Marriot Plaza), Florida 1005, ☏ +54 11 4318-3000. (updated May 2016)
* -34.593233-58.37260827 Sheraton Buenos Aires Hotel, San Martín 1225 (In front of Retiro station), ☏ +54 11 4318-9000. (updated May 2016)
* -34.606144-58.37662128 725 Continental Hotel, Av.Roque Saenz Peña 725, Ciudad de Buenos Aires, ☏ +54 11 4131-8000. The building, built in 1927 with a distinguished French style became a symbol of Buenos Aires architecture. Today the Hotel Continental is reborn under a new name and a modern and contemporaneous style. Best rates on official website start at US$230.
* -34.603689-58.38329429 Broadway Hotel and Suites, Av. Corrientes 1173 (close to the Obelisk), ☏ +54 11 4378 9300. It offers 110 rooms that comprises 56 junior suites, 6 executive suites, 4 deluxe suites, 38 superior rooms and 6 corner superior rooms. Some of its amenities include outdoor swimming pool, LCD screen television with cable channels, and wireless high-speed internet connection. While staying here, you can visit some interesting places like Obelisco, Broadway Theater, and Puerto Madero. Best rates on official website start at US$176.
* -34.60984-58.37412230 Hotel 562 Nogaro, Avenida Julio A. Roca 562, Capital Federal Argentinia, ☏ +54 11 4331-0091. The Hotel Nogaró Plaza de Mayo is in the historical, commercial and financial heart of Buenos Aires. It was built in 1930 and it has been renovated in keeping with its classic French style. Many of the city's major attractions are within 200 meters, and a ten-minute walk will bring guests to shopping areas and entertainment venues. The Hotel Nogaro Plaza de Mayo is convenient for the business, as well as the leisure traveler. Best rates on official website start at US$110.
* -34.609758-58.38206531 Imperial Park Hotel, 101 Lima St. (C1073AAC), ☏ +54 11 4383-0555. Imperial Park Hotel provides standard rooms, junior and executive suites with air-conditioning, mini-bar, high-speed internet and breakfast. Restaurant, fitness room, room service and dry cleaning.
* InterContinental, Piedras and Moreno streets (close to the San Telmo and Montserrat areas).
* -34.598207-58.38111532 Pestana Buenos Aires, Carlos Pellegrini 877, ☏ +54 11 5239 1000, fax: +54 11 5239 1141, reservas@pestanabuenosaires.com. High end hotel with helpful staff. There is also a butler service.
* -34.618594-58.37724433 Piedras Suites, Piedras 906, ☏ +54 11 4307 4625, fax: +54 11 4032 0008. 15 condominium units with A/C, kitchen and buffet breakfast. Terrace, conference room, travel agency and airport transfer.
* -34.598866-58.37148534 Regal Pacific Hotel, 25 de Mayo 764, Buenos Aires 1002 ABP, ☏ +54 11 4310-7000. Beautiful 5 star boutique hotel, fantastic location

### Apartments

* Apartment 'Argentina to let', Lavelle & Callao, ☏ +54 11 4824 1256. 2 bedrooms (4 people max) apartment on a nice street. US$380 per week.
* ByT Argentina. Furnished apartments and lofts for rent in San Telmo. Well equipped apartments. Economy, Luxury, Classic or Modern, spacious or small apartments. All the apartments are fully furnished and equipped and can be rented for short and long-term stays in Buenos Aires. Advanced search tool that will allow you to find an apartment available for the dates of the stay. Better value than a hotel so long as you are staying for a full week.
* -34.61967-58.37677935 San Telmo Colonial Hotel Boutique, Carlos Calvo 767 - Barrio de San Telmo (town) - Capital Federal, ☏ +54 11 4300-0097. Check-in: 12:30, check-out: 11:00. Offers rooms that are furnished with amenities such as air-conditioner, telephone, cable TV, in-room safe, and coffee/tea maker. Some of its facilities and services are 24-hour front desk, safe, baggage storage, concierge services, and translation services. Room rates start at US$210.