# Annan

Annan is a market town in Dumfries and Galloway in southwest Scotland, with a population of 8700 in 2022. Many town buildings are a warm red sandstone, but the main visitor attraction is the First World War munitions complex that made "the devil's porridge".

## Understand

This agricultural area was the powerbase of the de Brus family, with Robert the Bruce (1274-1329) winning an early victory nearby over the English-backed Balliol on his path to the crown of Scotland. The town grew up at the navigable limit of the River Annan, which flows into Solway Firth, and the poet Robert Burns worked here for a time as an exciseman. The philosopher and writer Thomas Carlyle (1795-1881) went to school here and was utterly miserable.
During the First World War there was a huge multi-site munitions complex around Annan, Gretna and Longtown in Cumbria. Britain's military firepower depended upon improvised processes involving "The Devil's Porridge", Boy Scouts collecting conkers, and the future President of Israel.
Visitor information is posted on the Council website.

## Get in
### By train

Trains run from Carlisle via Gretna to Annan (22 mins) and Dumfries every hour or two M-Sa, every couple of hours Sunday. Some of them continue north from Dumfries via Sanquhar and Kilmarnock to Glasgow Central, but it's usually quicker to take the fast London - Glasgow train and change at Carlisle.
54.983-3.2621 Annan railway station is 400 yards south of High Street. There's no ticket office or machines here, so get aboard and buy from the conductor. Annan's old locomotive turntable is still in service in the National Railway Museum in York.

### By road

Annan is bypassed to the north by the A75 Carlisle to Stranraer road with links into town at either end. Near Gretna the A75 joins the A74(M) motorway, which becomes M6 as it crosses into England.
National Cycle Route 7 passes through Annan on its way from Inverness to Sunderland, with a footbridge over the river to carry it to the south of the town.

### By bus

Stagecoach Cumbria Bus 79 runs from Carlisle via Longtown and Gretna to Annan, taking an hour. These run M-Sa every hour, Sunday every two hours, and continue west via Ruthwell to Dumfries.
Bus 179 also runs hourly between Carlisle, Longtown, Gretna, and Annan where it terminates. This is a longer route, taking 70 min, but it's quicker than waiting for the next 79.
54.9878-3.25992 Annan bus station is on Butts Street just off High Street. See Dumfries for connections towards Stranraer, and Carlisle for elsewhere, eg the X95 to Edinburgh.

## Get around

The town is compact and can be explored on foot, but you could do with a bike to reach Ruthwell or the Devil's Porridge.
The main taxi operator is Auberge (☏ +44 1461 207676).

## See

* Annan Museum, Bank Street DG12 6AA (village centre), ☏ +44 1461 201384. Apr-Oct M-Sa 11AM-4PM. This houses a permanent exhibition on local history from the prehistoric to the First World War with interactive displays and children’s activities. Free. (updated Jan 2025)
* Annan Castle: you'll need to peer closely to spot the remains of this 12th century Motte-and-Bailey on the edge of Galabank Park. It's little more than an overweight molehill, but neither battle nor neglect caused its ruin - the river changed course and eroded the site.
* 54.9854-3.17021 The Devil's Porridge, Near Stanfield Farm, Annan Road, Eastriggs DG12 6TF (3 miles east of town on B721), ☏ +44 1461 700021, info@devilsporridge.org.uk. Jan-Nov M-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 10AM-4PM. In the First World War, Britain could produce enough artillery shell cases, and the explosives to fill them, but lacked cordite for propellant - this required acetone which was in very short supply. A new recipe was devised, kneading nitroglycerin and gun-cotton into a paste that could be shaped to the correct shell calibre, and when Sir Arthur Conan Doyle visited the factory he called it "a sort of devil's porridge". The munitions complex was named HM Factory Gretna but (just in case one part went bang) it was spread over four sites and nine miles between Longtown, Gretna and Eastriggs, the present site of this museum commemorating the factory and its mostly female workforce. Meanwhile a chemist called Chaim Weizman (1874-1952, later first President of Israel) devised another process, not used at Gretna, by fermenting maize starch to make acetone. But maize was difficult to import in wartime, so in a surreally British improvisation, schoolchildren and Boy Scouts were sent out to collect acorns and conkers for fermentation. Adult £10, conc or child £9. (updated Jan 2025)
* Ruthwell is a tiny village five miles west of Annan with a surprising collection of sights: Ruthwell Cross, a Savings Bank Museum, and Brow Well. It's on B724, the old road to Dumfries; turn off onto B725 for Caerlaverock Castle. Notable place names hereabouts include Cocklicks Farm and Twathats. (Little Cocklick, home of Jean Maxwell "the Galloway witch", is away west near Castle Douglas.)
* 55.0004-3.40752 Ruthwell Cross, Ruthwell Church DG1 4NP (Off B724 five miles west of Annan). Daily 10AM-4PM. 8th-century Anglo-Saxon High Cross, 18 ft high, smashed in 1642 but restored in 1823, with remarkable carvings and inscriptions in Latin, Anglo-Saxon and Runic. Scholars of runes may struggle as these are not the standard futhorc script, and were probably added in the 10th century. (updated Jan 2025)
* Savings Bank Museum, 2 Thwaite Cottages, Ruthwell DG1 4NN, ☏ +44 1387 323001. Apr-Oct 10AM-4PM. This cottage housed the world's first savings bank, opened here in 1810 and swiftly copied. Free. (updated Jan 2025)
* Brow is a hamlet a mile or so west of Ruthwell on B725, which in Robert Burns' time was "the poor man's spa". The Brow Well was a chalybeate (iron-rich) spring which you plunged into. In the 20th century, it was prettified into a pink sandstone bath. Nearby is a beach for sea-bathing, but only around spring high tides when the sea covers the mud flats. In July 1796 Burns spent 3 weeks here, bathing in sea and spring between quaffing port and writing begging letters to all and sundry. He left, haggard, pale and tottering, in every sense the poor man, to die at home in Dumfries 3 days later. He was 37.
* Hoddom Castle 5 miles north of Annan is derelict but has a campsite, see Sleep.
* Repentance Tower close by is an unusual 16th century watchtower - it was never a habitation or garrison. The name comes from the inscription "Repentance" above the entrance, with various stories about who was repenting and for what. It's derelict.
* See Lockerbie for Thomas Carlyle's birthplace in Ecclefechan. He went to school in Annan and later was a schoolteacher here.

## Do

* Walk: a pleasant stroll is to walk north (upstream) along the east bank of the river and back down the west bank. If you cross at the first footbridge just before the A75 viaduct it's a two-mile round-trip, via the second footbridge it's four miles, and by the lane bridge at Brydekirk (Brig Inn is here) it's six miles.
* Football: 54.9942-3.26161 Annan Athletic FC, Galabank, North Street DG12 5DQ, ☏ +44 1461 204108. They play soccer in Scottish League One, the third tier. (updated Jan 2025)
* Lonsdale Cinema is just off Lady St.
* Newington Leisure Centre on Shawhill Rd has a gym and fitness classes.
* Annan Swimming Pool is next to the railway station.
* Powfoot Golf Club, Cummertrees DG12 5QE (Next to Powfoot Hotel five miles west of Annan), ☏ +44 1461 204100. 18-hole course (6274 yards, par 71), half links, half parkland, redesigned by the legendary James Braid in 1923. Visitor round £40-£90. (updated Jan 2025)
* Broom Fisheries have five lagoons for coarse and match fishing, with a tackle shop, caravan & camping site (see below), toilets and ample parking near the waters.
* 55.0037-3.26122 Annandale Distillery, Northfield DG12 5LL (off B722, which bridges A75 without a junction.), ☏ +44 1461 207817, info@annandaledistillery.com. Tours daily 10AM-4PM. This whisky distillery started in 1836, became part of Johnnie Walker but closed in 1924. It re-started in 2014, with its first modern produce coming to market in 2018, branded as "Man O'Words" (unpeated) and "Man O'Sword" (peated). They give guided tours and have a shop and café. Standard tour £25. (updated Jan 2025)
* 55.0354-3.41643 Dino Park, Hetland Garden Centre, Carrutherstown DG1 4JX (off A75), ☏ +44 1387 840060. Apr-Oct daily 9AM-5:30PM. Dinosaur-themed park and soft-play area. No dogs. Family day-pass (2+2) £35. (updated Jan 2025)
* The Common Riding of the Marches is a 600-year-old ceremony to mark the boundaries of Annan, and ensure that its various landmarks, cairns and other features are in good order. That's if anyone can maintain good order with over 100 horse riders cavorting about, massed pipes and drums, decorated floats, and similar razzmatazz of a 600-year-old nature. It's held on the first Saturday in July, with the next probably on Sa 5 July 2025, tbc.

## Buy

* Aldi is on Butts St, open 8AM-10PM, Su 9AM-8PM.
* Tesco is on Scott's St, open 7AM-10PM, Su 8AM-8PM.
* For big-ticket items head 10 miles east to Caledonia Park in Gretna.

## Eat

* Lucky Date is a Chinese at 14 Church St, open W-M 5-9PM.
* Cafe Royal, 95 High St DG12 6DJ, ☏ +44 1461 202865. Daily 9AM-7PM. Breakfast, fish & chips, filled rolls, sit in or takeaway. (updated Jan 2025)
* La Fortuna is a pizzeria at 95A High St next to Cafe Royal.
* Corner House Hotel lounge bar serves coffee, soup and light meals 8AM-10PM, see below.
* Solway Cafe, 133 High Street DG12 6EB, ☏ +44 1461 202271. M-Sa 11AM-7PM, Su noon-7PM. Trad filling fare, inexpensive. (updated Jan 2025)
* Our Place, 49 High St DG12 6AD, ☏ +44 1461 380390. F Sa noon-11PM. Good reviews for this sit-down restaurant with a wide-ranging menu. (updated Jan 2025)
* Del Amitri Restaurant is within Powfoot Hotel 3 miles west of Annan, see below.

## Drink

* The Anglers, 61 High Street DG12 6AD, ☏ +44 1461 206588. M-Sa noon-midnight, Su noon-11PM. Cocktail and sports bar with good pub grub. (updated Jan 2025)
* Blue Bell Inn, 10 High Street DG12 6AG (next to river bridge), ☏ +44 1461 202385. W-M noon-11PM, Tu 6-11PM. Trad pub with Robert Burns' quotes on the walls; ever-changing selection of real ales, including "Mote & Bailey" brewed on the premises. Live sports on TV, dog-friendly, beer garden. (updated Jan 2025)
* Commercial Inn is at 128 High St, open Th-M 1-11PM.
* Auberge Bar at 82A High St is open M-Sa 11AM-11PM, Su noon-11PM.
* The Shed, 7 Lady Street DG12 5DA, ☏ +44 1461 203992. M-W 11AM-11PM, Th-Sa 11AM-1AM, Su noon-11PM. Friendly sports bar with live music, disco and karaoke. (updated Jan 2025)
* Farmers Inn is in Clarencefield five miles west of Annan, serving meals and real ale, see below.
* Distilleries: see above for Annandale. Solway Spirits make gin and vodka.

## Sleep

* 54.9874-3.26211 Corner House Hotel, 78 High Street DG12 6DL, ☏ +44 1461 202754, enquiries@thecornerhousehotel.com. Dated but comfy place with 18 en-suite rooms and secure parking. B&B double £90. (updated Jan 2025)
* The Old Rectory is a B&B at 12 St John's Rd.
* Rowanbank is a B&B at 20 St John's Rd near the railway station.
* 54.9809-3.30542 Broom Campsite, Broom Farm DG12 5PN, ☏ +44 1461 700386. Camping and caravan site by a fishery. Caravan £25, tent £15. (updated Jan 2025)
* 54.9764-3.33443 Powfoot Hotel, Links Ave, Powfoot DG12 5PN, ☏ +44 1461 700300. By the golf links near the coast 3 miles west of Annan, this is a well-run friendly hotel. With Del Amitri restaurant. B&B double £150. (updated Jan 2025)
* 55.0046-3.42194 Farmers Inn, Main Street, Clarencefield DG1 4NF, ☏ +44 1387 870675. Motel-style accommodation in lodge at rear of the Inn. B&B double £100. (updated Jan 2025)
* 55.0443-3.32265 Hoddom Castle, Hoddom, Lockerbie DG11 1AS, ☏ +44 1576 300251, enquiries@hoddomcastle.co.uk. The castle itself is a ramshackle 16th century tower house,. In the grounds, open April-Oct, are caravan facilities, camping pitches and pods, fishing, golfing, walking and children's play area. £25-£35 pitch for two adults. (updated Jan 2025)

## Connect

As of Jan 2025, Annan and its approach roads have 4G from Three, and 5G from EE, O2 and Vodafone.

## Go next

* Dumfries is where Robert Burns spent his last years, and further west is Stranraer for ferries to Northern Ireland.
* To Edinburgh most people race north up A74(M) then branch onto A702. Slower scenic routes are via Gretna and Longtown onto A7, thence via Hawick, Selkirk and Galashiels in the Scottish Borders; or leave A74(M) at Moffat for A708 past Grey Mare's Tail, Ettrick Forest and Innerleithen. These roads are glorious when it's sunny and the heather in bloom, nerve-wracking in bad weather or with a low fuel tank.
* Go south via Carlisle to reach the Lake District.