# Public baths in Japan

Bathing is a big deal in Japan, and be it a scenic onsen hot spring, a neighborhood sentō bath or just an ordinary household tub, bathing Japanese style is a pleasure. Japanese wax lyrical about the joys of hot water (湯 or ゆ yu) and dub even the ordinary tub with an honorific prefix (お風呂 o-furo), and a visit to a Japanese hot spring — marked as ♨ on maps — should be on the agenda of every visitor.

## Understand

Whereas a Western "bath" is used for washing in, "baths" in Japan are for soaking and relaxing. (Think of it more like a hot tub than a bath.) Washing is done first outside the tub, usually sitting on a stool in front of a faucet, but showers are also available.
The difference that may stick in your craw is that unlike a hot tub, baths in Japan are generally used naked. While this initially sounds shocking to Western sensibilities, it's simply the norm in Japan; friends, colleagues, and family members of any age think nothing of it. The Japanese even use the phrase "naked socializing" (裸の付き合い hadaka no tsukiai) as an idiom for "completely open relationship" to describe the way bathing together breaks down social barriers. You should really consider trying it, but if you refuse then there are other options:
* Foot baths (足湯 ashiyu) are a popular way to relax; the only thing that goes in these baths is your bare feet, while you sit comfortable and clothed on the pool wall.
* Mixed-gender (混浴 kon'yoku) baths sometimes allow (but may not require) bathing suits, and sometimes they're only allowed for women. Commercial operations (that is, public baths not part of a ryokan) with kon'yoku baths tend to enforce bathing suits for both sexes.
* Some ryokan have "family baths" that you can reserve for just you and your group; these are meant for mom, dad, and the kids to bathe together. Some of these allow bathing suits, or you can use it to guarantee you'll have the bath to yourself. Similarly, some ryokan offer high-end rooms with a private bath; bathing suits might still not be allowed, but even if not it at least means you won't be sharing the bath with strangers, or you can take turns with your mates bathing solo.
Many onsen and sento prohibit the entry of visitors with tattoos. Intended to keep out yakuza gangsters (who often sport full-back tattoos), the rule is usually applied with a modicum of common sense, but heavily tattooed visitors will, at the very least, receive curious looks and may be asked to leave. Websites such as Tattoo-Friendly maintain lists of facilities that allow or overlook tattoos. Onsen that are attached to hotels and ryokan (especially those that receive foreign tourists) will generally have some sort of covering that you can receive (usually some type of large bandage or gauze) for small- or medium-sized tattoos, but you do have to ask at the hotel front desk. However, some hotels limit the number of coverings to 2-3, although this is usually to ensure they have enough for other guests. Public baths (i.e. not attached to hotels/ryokan) are less likely to have coverings, although as more (tattooed) foreign guests visit some are adapting.

### Onsen

Onsen (温泉), quite literally "hot springs", are the pinnacle of the Japanese bathing experience. Clusters of hot spring inns (ryokan) pop up wherever there's a suitable source of hot water, and in volcanic Japan, they're everywhere. The most memorable onsen experience is often the rotenburo (露天風呂): outdoor baths with views of the surrounding natural scenery. While baths are usually large and shared, some swankier accommodations offer, often for an additional fee, reservable baths for you and yours alone, known as family baths (家族風呂 kazoku-buro), racier "romance baths" (ロマンス風呂 romansu-buro) or just plain old reserved baths (貸切風呂 kashikiri-buro). Onsen baths can be either in standalone buildings available for anybody (外湯 sotoyu), or private guest-only baths inside your lodgings (内湯 uchiyu).
Don't focus exclusively on inns; many onsen have no lodging, and are just there to bathe and relax in. While most onsen are run commercially and charge fees for entry (¥500-1000 is typical), especially in remote areas there are free publicly maintained baths that offer minimal facilities but, more often than not, stunning views to make up for it. Many of these are mixed (混浴 kon'yoku), but while men still happily traipse into these naked, if holding a towel in front of their dangly bits, it's a rare woman who'll enter one without a bathing suit these days.
Since proper onsen use natural unfiltered water, the water may look or smell unusual. A whiff of rotten egg sometimes accompanied by a milky white color indicates sulphur (硫黄 iō), a common volcanic byproduct, while red-tinted water comes from iron. Clear but thick, silky water indicates that it's alkaline, said to be good for your skin. Little mineral flakes floating in the water are "hot spring flowers" (湯の花 yunohana), considered evidence that the water is fresh from the source and often sold at the reception in gift packs to bring home.
To find those really off the beaten track hot spring inns, check out the Japan Association of Secluded Hot Spring Inns (日本秘湯を守る会 Nihon hitō o mamoru kai), which consists of 185 independent lodges throughout the country. Many other sites curate lists of onsen, such as Secret Onsen which focuses on outdoor and mixed-gender baths.

### Sentō and spas

Sentō (銭湯) are public bath houses found in any large city. Intended for people without their own home tub. They are typically quite utilitarian and are slowly dying out, with COVID forcing many to close down for good.
Some, however, have gone upmarket and turned into super sento (スーパー銭湯 sūpā sentō) or spas (スパ supa), which in Japan does not mean Balinese huts offering Ayurvedic massage while getting sprinkled with orchids, but public baths for stressed-out salarymen, often with a capsule hotel (see Japan § Sleep) bolted on the side. As you might expect, these come in varying degrees of legitimacy — in particular, beware any place advertising "esthe", "health", or "soap" — but most are surprisingly decent.
Worth remembering is that urban sentōs are often accompanied by laundromats/laundrettes. Clean clothes belong to clean bodies!

## Types of water

Many people choose hot springs based on convenience, fame, views from the baths, and the beauty of the surrounding onsen town. However, more serious onsen-lovers will also look at the type of water, which affects how the water feels and is claimed to offer different health benefits to bathers. Here are the most common water types with some of their benefits and a few examples (non-exhaustive) of some onsen with that water type. These are the main types however, there are additional subsets within each group for those with particular interests. Many onsen, including famous hot springs like 39.8140.781 Nyuto Onsen, 33.07839131.14132 Kurokawa Onsen, and Beppu Onsen are made of multiple hotels and ryokan which may have different types of water. The examples listed highlight famous onsen that offer either exclusively one type of water or predominantly one type.
* Alkaline Spring or Simple Springs (アルカリ性単純温泉, 単純温泉) - Hot springs that are over 25 °C but do not have a high enough concentration of any other components
       Benefits: Good for skin, arteries and high blood pressure, easing fatigue
       Examples: 35.103361139.0790563 Atami Onsen (Atami), 35.808889137.2435834 Gero Onsen (Gero), 35.201111133.7323615 Yubara Onsen (Maniwa), 33.851944132.7863896 Dogo Onsen (Matsuyama), 33.097194129.9850287 Ureshino Onsen (Ureshino)
* Chloride Spring or Salt Spring (塩化物泉) - Hot springs with salt or chloride ions as the main component
       Benefits: Blood circulation, anticeptic properties, pain relief, cleaning exzema
       Examples: 39.973389139.7422228 Oga Onsen (Oga), 38.2251140.729 Akiu Onsen (Sendai), 37.086667136.91833310 Wakura Onsen (Nanao), 35.627778134.811 Kinosaki Onsen (Toyooka), 31.223139130.65505612 Ibusuki Onsen (Ibusuki)
* Sulfate Spring (硫酸塩泉) - Hot springs whose main component is sulfate ions
       Benefits: Good for cuts, bruises, blood circulation, depression
       Examples: 38.569722140.53111113 Ginzan Onsen (Obanazawa), 36.686167138.77472214 Shima Onsen (Nakanojo), 36.247119136.37279715 Yamanaka Onsen (Kaga), 35.390167132.87186116 Yunokawa Onsen (Izumo)
* Simple Carbon Dioxide Spring (二酸化炭素泉) - Hot spring contains large amounts of free carbon dioxide, a rarity in Japan
       Benefits: Cuts, blood circulation, infertility, nervous instability
       Examples: 34.798056135.247517 Arima Onsen's Gin no Yu (Kobe), 33.066778131.37372218 Nagayu Onsen (Taketa)
* Carbonated Spring (炭酸水素塩泉) - The main anion component is hydrogen carbonate ions.
       Benefits: Joint pain, cuts, dry skin, skin diseases
       Examples: 38.609111140.16702819 Hijiori Onsen (Okura), 35.419399136.55785920 Ikeda Onsen (Ikeda), 33.956135.56221 Ryujin Onsen (Tanabe)
* Acidic Spring (酸性泉) - Contains over 1 mg of hydrogen ions per kilogram
       Benefits: Psoriasis, dermatitis, skin diseases, diabetes
       Examples: 39.9632140.72522 Tamagawa Onsen (Semboku), 38.1687140.39723 Zao Onsen (Yamagata), 36.622806138.59663924 Kusatsu Onsen (Kusatsu), 36.968278139.82238925 Shiobara Onsen (Nasushiobara), 32.742444130.25994426 Unzen Onsen (Unzen)
* Iron Spring or Ferruginous Spring (含鉄泉) - Springs with iron as a primary component
       Benefit: Anemia, rheumatism, menstrual irregularities, and menopausal symptoms
       Examples: 40.614111139.86227 Furofushi Onsen (Fukaura), 36.49827138.9303928 Ikaho Onsen (Shibukawa), 33.183361130.50630629 Funagoya Onsen (Chikugo)
* Sulphur Spring (硫黄泉) - Contains hydrogen sulphide
       Benefits: Eczema and other skin disorders, joint pain, blood pressure
       Examples: 38.991528140.61202830 Doroyu Onsen (Yuzawa), 36.637167138.51008331 Manza Onsen (Tsumagoi), 36.152222137.62761132 Shirahone Onsen (Matsumoto), 36.265389137.56261133 Shin-Hotaka Onsen (Takayama)
* Radioactive Spring (放射能泉) - Hot springs that contain a certain amount of radon
       Benefits: Gout, arthritis, high blood pressure, stimulating radium hormesis
       Examples: 35.41075133.89308334 Misasa Onsen (Misasa), 35.18475134.3337535 Awakura Onsen (Nishiawakura)

## Destinations

Japan is incredibly active geothermally, so hot springs can be found throughout the length of the archipelago, from frigid Shiretoko National Park at the tippy-top of northern Hokkaido to the balmy subtropical jungles of Iriomote in southernmost Okinawa. The one place you tend not to find them is large cities like Tokyo or Osaka, which are built on plains, not the mountains.
Foreign visitors typically visit hot springs by stopping at a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn, most of which feature hot springs as one of their main attractions (the other main attraction usually being the elaborate kaiseki meals). Visiting hot springs during the day is possible as well. Ryokan also typically sell day passes for access to their private baths, while many hot springs are independent baths that are open to the public. Many of these have grown into hot spring towns, resort areas with lots of lodging, stores to peruse during the day, and other activities for kids and family.
Beppu is famous for its hot spring hells, a series of hot springs in a variety of colors from thick gloopy grey (from suspended mud) to blue-green (from dissolved cobalt) to blood red (from dissolved iron and magnesium). The hells are not suitable for bathing in (they're just too hot, although next to one there's a foot bath with some pale red and still very hot water) but plenty others at Beppu Onsen are. 35.189444139.02472236 Hakone Onsen may not be the best hot springs in Japan, but it's about an hour outside of Tokyo and on the way to Kyoto and Osaka, so it's a popular destination. 36.734444138.43305637 Shibu Onsen near Nagano is famous for wild monkeys who come from the snow-covered mountains to sit in the hot springs. (Don't worry, there are separate baths for people.) Two hot springs are designated as World Heritage Sites, 35.096667132.34988938 Yunotsu Onsen as part of Iwami Ginzan and its Cultural Landscape and Yunomine Onsen's 33.828917135.75744439 Tsuboyu as part of the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route.
After the "Three Views" of Japan were composed in the 17th century, many authors have tried to come up with a definitive top 3 hot springs. Some of the better-known lists are:

#### Three Great Hot Springs

三大温泉 Sandaionsen
* 35.103361139.07905640 Atami Onsen, Shizuoka
* 33.284611131.49127841 Beppu Onsen, Oita
* 33.678139135.34811142 Shirahama Onsen, Wakayama

#### Three Famous Springs

三名泉 Sanmeisen. This list was authored by Hayashi Razan, father of Hayashi Gahō who created the aforementioned "Three Views".
* 34.798056135.247543 Arima Onsen, Hyogo
* 35.808889137.24358344 Gero Onsen, Gifu
* 36.622806138.59663945 Kusatsu Onsen , Gunma

#### Three Old Springs

三古湯 Sankosen
* 33.851944132.78638946 Dogo Onsen , Ehime
* 34.798056135.247547 Arima Onsen, Hyogo
* 33.678139135.34811148 Shirahama Onsen, Wakayama

#### Three Baths of Fusō

扶桑三名湯 Fusō-sanmeiyu. Fusō is a poetic name for Japan and this one is credited to traveling haiku poet Matsuo Basho.
* 34.798056135.247549 Arima Onsen, Hyogo
* 36.247119136.37279750 Yamanaka Onsen , Ichikawa
* 36.622806138.59663951 Kusatsu Onsen , Gunma

#### Hokkaido

The lists above were composed before the northern island of Hokkaido was fully incorporated into Japan, but the wintry climate and plentiful ski resorts make Hokkaido a top onsen destination. Standouts include:
* 42.41275141.10658352 Noboribetsu, home to the largest spa in Asia
* 43.725167142.94697253 Sounkyo Onsen, nestled in Daisetsuzan National Park
* 44.153917145.12911154 Kamuiwakka Falls , a hot spring waterfall in Shiretoko National Park at the northeasternmost tip of Japan

#### Outside Japan

Once a Japanese colony, Taiwan adopted Japanese bathing culture with gusto and many Japanese-style (大眾裸湯, "public naked") hot springs can be found throughout this heavily volcanic island, most notably in Beitou just north of Taipei. That said, most Taiwanese spas are mixed-gender and mandate bathing suits.
In South Korea, jjimjilbang spas are also similar to Japanese sentos, and some parts of the country, particularly mountainous areas, are also home to hot spring resorts.

## Etiquette

Japanese are understanding of the funny ways of foreigners, but there's one rule where no exceptions are made: you have to wash yourself and rinse off all foam before entering the bath. The water in the tub will be reused by the next person, and the Japanese consider it disgusting to soak in someone else's dirt! Basically, wash up as well as you hope the fellow next to you has done.
Be it a fancy onsen or a barebones sentō, the choreography of an entire visit goes roughly as follows:
Shared bathing areas are usually sex-segregated, so look for the characters 男 ("men") and 女 ("women") to pick the correct entrance. Men's baths also typically have blue curtains, while women's are red. (See also § Gender issues below.) Enter the changing room, leaving shoes or slippers at the doorway; at public baths there may be keyed lockers.
At public baths (sentō), you either pay the attendant directly (often through the changing room entrance, and it's almost always a woman), or use a vending machine in the entrance to buy tickets for entry and extra items such as towels or soap, which you then give to the attendant. On vending machines, look near the top for the Japanese words for "adult" (大人 otona) and "child" (子供 kodomo). (If the vending machine is too difficult to figure out, you can probably walk in and say sumimasen ("excuse me") to the attendant and accomplish the rest by gesturing.)
Inside the changing room, there will be rows of clothes lockers or baskets. Pick a locker and undress completely, placing all your garments in the basket. Be sure to place your valuables in lockers, if there are any, and take the key with you into the bath.
You'll be given a flimsy washcloth for free, or sometimes a token fee. It's not particularly good for covering your privates (it's too small to wrap around most waists, and too short to cover much anyway) and it's not much use for drying off, either. Larger towels are usually available, again sometimes for a fee; men should leave these in the changing room except when drying off, using only their washcloth for privacy, but women can use their large towel to wrap up with outside of the bathroom. If you'd like one, ask the attendant for a taoru.
After removing your clothes and entering the bathing area, take a little stool and a bucket, sit down at a faucet, and clean yourself really, really well. Shampoo your hair, soap your entire body, repeat. Rinse all foam off once clean. Try not to leave the water running, or get water on other people. In addition to the obvious sanitary reasons, the water used for rinsing is usually at or around the same temperature as the water in the baths (between 40-42°C), so washing helps prepare the body for submergence.
If you didn't do it while rinsing, before getting into the bath tub, you can douse yourself with water from the bath to acclimate to the temperature. Particularly at hot springs, there may be a small fountain of hot spring water for this purpose (かけ湯 kake-yu). You can also do this to give yourself a token cleansing when moving between bath areas or after taking a break from soaking.
Only now can you enter the bath tub. Do so slowly, as the water can often be very hot indeed; if it's unbearable, try another tub. If you do manage to get in, don't let your washcloth touch the water, as it's dirty (even if you didn't use it, it would leave lint in the bath); you may wish to fold it atop your head, or just lay it aside. You needn't stay in until you turn lobster red; feel free to take breaks to cool off to extend your soaking time. When sufficiently cooked, you may wash yourself once again if you're so inclined and repeat the process in reverse; it's fine to save washing your hair for after the bath, too, if you prefer. (At natural hot springs, though, you shouldn't rinse off the bath water, which is full of minerals that the Japanese consider healthy folk medicine.)
The bath is for soaking and light conversation; don't roughhouse, submerge your head, or make a lot of noise. (Kids get a little leeway, but keep them from running since the floors can be very slippery and uneven.) Japanese people may be a bit wary of foreigners in the bath, mostly because they're afraid you'll try to talk to them in English and they'll be embarrassed that they can't communicate with you. Just give them a token nod/bow, say ohayo gozaimasu, konnichiwa, or konbanwa depending on the time of day, and wait to see if they're interested in talking to you.
After your bath is finished, you can nearly always find a relaxation lounge (休憩室 kyūkeishitsu), inevitably equipped with a beer vending machine nearby. Feel free to sprawl out in your yukata, sip beer, talk with friends, or take a nap. Most onsen will have a section of the changing room set up with hair dryers, combs/brushes, razors, etc. for maintaining personal appearances.

### Household baths

In Japanese homes, there are separate rooms for the sink, bath, and toilet, so that all three can be used simultaneously. The "bath" room contains a tub for soaking, and a combination faucet/shower for washing, all fully enclosed in a wet room with a drain on the floor. The tub is often fully automatic, with a complex control panel that fills the tub and sets the temperature; many homes have a duplicate panel in the kitchen so you can prepare the bath remotely.
Once the tub is filled, it's reused by every other person taking a bath that night, hence the importance of cleaning yourself thoroughly before entering. In between bathers, the tub is covered to keep it warm and keep dirty wash water from splashing in. Traditionally, baths are taken in a strict order: visitors before family, men before women, and oldest before youngest. While you could choose to negotiate with other guests who should bathe first, you should probably not refuse the honor of bathing before your host family if offered it.

## Eat

Many public baths, particularly sento, have their own restaurants. In onsen towns, especially at ryokan, meals may be offered by the accommodations. These are usually traditional Japanese dishes featuring locally grown vegetables and famous local delicacies. Restaurants in these towns may only be open in the morning and at lunchtime. Since most guests eat dinner at their lodging, there may be limited or no outside dining options in the evening. If you are a daytripper or you booked a no-meal discounted reservation at a ryokan, it's a good idea to plan ahead so that you know what your evening options are with their hours of operation, including convenience stores. Some hotels and ryokan have meal plans for non-staying guests (which typically also give you access to their hot springs). Remote baths may not have any restaurants or convenience stores nearby, so you may need to eat at your accommodation or buy food before you arrive.
Certain foods are more common in hot spring towns:
-Onsen Eggs (温泉卵 onsen tamago) - Some hot springs sell eggs that you can boil in hot spring water to eat. Alternatively, some places may sell pudding or other products that they made in the hot spring water.
-Onsen manju (温泉饅頭 onsen manjū) - Soft buns filled with red bean paste that are heated using the onsen water or sold in onsen towns.
-Karinto manju (かりんとう饅頭 Karintō manjū) - a fried, crispy brown sugar snack filled with red bean paste.
Other onsen treats and foods specific to a single onsen town also exist. Like the eggs and manju, typically what makes them special is that the hot spring water was used to make them. Ryokan and restaurants may also advertise that their tofu or other foods are made in the onsen waters. If you are interested in trying any particular "onsen food", check to make sure it is available at your intended destination beforehand to avoid disappointment.

## Buy

In the Tohoku Region, kokeshi dolls are souvenirs that have been made for decades as hot spring town souvenirs. Kokeshi are painted wooden dolls with long cylindrical bodies with no arms or legs. There are 12 different varieties of kokeshi, each associated with its own onsen (except for the Yamagata Kokeshi). While generic kokeshi can be bought anywhere, these kokeshi are hand-crafted and hand-painted by artisans with years of training in how to paint their variety. The varieties are distinguished by the patterns on the bodies, the shape of the bodies, the way they're constructed, the facial expressions, hair styles, etc. Each artist paints their own signature on the bottom, as well, so collectors can verify who painted a specific kokeshi to determine its value and authenticity.
Below are the kokeshi with their associated hot spring towns:
* Tsugaru Kokeshi: 40.606328140.67652255 Kuroishi Onsen (Kuroishi)
* Nanbu Kokeshi: 39.452556141.06822256 Hanamaki Onsen (Hanamaki)
* Kijiyama Kokeshi: 39.006583140.66347257 Oyasu-kyo Onsen (Yuzawa)
* Naruko Kokeshi: 38.742611140.71711158 Naruko Onsen (Naruko)
* Sakunami Kokeshi: 38.331556140.613559 Sakunami Onsen (Sendai)
* Togatta Kokeshi: 38.123881140.57712860 Togatta Onsen (Zao)
* Yajiro Kokeshi: 38.02514140.575961 Kamasaki Onsen (Shiroishi)
* Hijiori Kokeshi: 38.609111140.16702862 Hijiori Onsen (Okura)
* Zao Kokeshi: 38.1687140.39763 Zao Onsen (Yamagata)
* Tsuchiyu Kokeshi: 37.682140.32664 Tsuchiyu Onsen (Fukushima)
* Nakanosawa Kokeshi: 37.614611140.21161165 Nakanosawa Onsen (Inawashiro)
Many of the kokeshi onsen towns will have kokeshi motifs scattered about, such as Naruko Onsen and Tsuchiyu Onsen. Some artisans open their workshops to the public and sell their kokeshi there.
The Yamagata Kokeshi is one of the traditional kokeshi but does not have any associated onsen. Izu Kokeshi, also known as Oshin Kokeshi, are particular to Ginzan Onsen. As a popular onsen town with the kokeshi dating to 1915 similar to the other types, some people wonder why they are not listed. The artist who made Izu Kokeshi was an apprentice of a Naruko Kokeshi artist, so the Izu Kokeshi are considered to be a subset of the Naruko Kokeshi rather than a distinct variety. In each school there are artists with distinct styles, so collectors interested in kokeshi with specific appearances should find out who the artist is to see how to purchase the specific type they seek.

## Stay safe

Fainting and dizziness can occur when using hot springs, but there are things you can do to prevent it from happening. First, make sure you are well-hydrated prior to entering the public baths. Even though you are in the water, your body still sweats, so just like you shouldn't hike without hydrating nor should you enter the public baths. Second, get out of the bath in stages. If you've submerged your body in the water with your head out, instead of standing and getting out, remain in the bath but come out halfway, or as the Japanese say, "sit with your heart out of the water". Getting up quickly from the hot baths can cause your blood pressure to drop which can make you dizzy or faint. By sitting half-in, half-out, you can give your body time to get used to the temperature differences, so that you can exit fully without feeling dizzy. Lastly, don't spend too much time in the bath. Prolonged time in the bath can cause changes in blood pressure and hypoglycemia.

### Gender issues

Young children can accompany an opposite-gender parent. Older children must use the correct side, even if this means they are unaccompanied; a rough age would be elementary school, or around 5 years old. Children who wear diapers are usually not allowed in onsen or sento baths.
For transgender, intersex, and other nonconforming people, the situation can be difficult. The distinction between the "men's" and "women's" baths is based entirely on external appearance; post-op transgender people may have no problems, but others may not be so lucky. If you wish to partake in a Japanese bath without being coerced into using the men's or women's side, there are several solutions:
* Use a private bath (either a reservable shared bath, or a private bath in your room)
* Find a mixed-gender (混浴 kon'yoku) bath
* Find a bath that is not so popular and go early on a weekday when it's hopefully empty