# Kathmandu/Boudhanath and East Kathmandu

Boudhanath (also known as Boudha, pronounced 'Bo-da') is 7 km east/northeast of central Kathmandu. It is home to one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world, built during the 5th century AD.

## Understand

For centuries, Boudhanath has been an important place of pilgrimage and meditation for Tibetan Buddhists and local Nepalis. It is located on what was a major trade route between Nepal and Tibet. Many traveling merchants used it as a resting place. It is also a popular tourist site. In 1979, Boudha became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Great Stupa of Boudhanath is the focal point of the district. There are at least 29 Tibetan Gompas (Monasteries & Nunneries) around Boudhanath. The culture is very much Himalayan with a strong presence of Tibetans & Sherpas, as can be evidenced by the number of restaurants selling momos, thukpa & other Tibetan favourites. Many maroon-clad Tibetan Buddhist monks & nuns can be seen walking around Boudha, especially at the Stupa. As a daily ritual, many people walk three or more times around the stupa while repeating the mantra 'Om Mani Padme Hum' either quietly or aloud. During the days of & surrounding the full moons, the air is often thick with incense & mantras sung by monks, & the number of people visiting the Stupa increases significantly, along with the intensity of their mantras & prayers. Boudha is a fascinating & very spiritual area. Most of the restaurants & shops are closed by 20:00.

### Recommended reading

* Boudhanath: The Great Stupa by Keith Dowman. A translation of the legend of the great stupa as disclosed in a hidden treasure teaching of Guru Rinpoche.

## Get in
### By taxi

From Kathmandu Airport expect to pay Nrs600 from the parking area or around Nrs1,000 for a pre-paid fare. If you are coming to see the Boudha Stupa, tell the taxi driver that you wish to go to Boudha Stupa Main Gate. (July 2024)

### By bus

Buses and vans that ply the Ring Road route (which loops around Kathmandu and the Kathmandu Valley) pass through Chabahil. The fare for anywhere on the loop is between Nrs30-40. From Chabahil junction, there are a number of transportation options (buses, taxis, bikes, vans) that cover the 5 minute drive to 'Boudha Stupa Gate'. Otherwise, it's a 20 minute walk from the junction to the stupa.
From Kantipath (between Kathmandu Mall and the Nepal Airlines Corporation building) and Jamal Bus Stand (in front of Vishwa Yoti Mall, north of Rani Pokhari Lake in Ratna Park) micro-buses and regular buses depart for Boudha, stopping just past the main gate of the stupa (this is not the last stop, and so you'll need to request the conductor or a fellow passenger to inform you when you have reached your destination). There are no English signs on the buses, but the conductors continually shout ‘Chabahil, Boudha’ - fare Nrs30. (July 2024)

## Get around

Most of the sites of interest are located near the stupa and can easily be reached on foot. Taxis are available on the main road by the main stupa gate, until around 9PM.
The lanes and alleys around the stupa are packed with small shops and cafes, and the best way to explore them is on foot. However, be aware of bikes. Like every other city in south Asia, Kathmandu refuses to ban bikes in lanes, no matter how narrow, which not only destroys an enjoyable stroll but also creates a dangerous situation for pedestrians. So, always stay close to the edge of the roads and check for bikes before crossing to the other side.

## See

* 27.72138985.3619441 Boudhanath Stupa (Boudha). According to legend, Boudhanath Stupa was built during the 5th century AD, by an old poultry woman who asked the king for land to construct a shrine to the Buddha. The king agreed, and offered her as much land as she could cover with the skin of a water buffalo. The woman proceeded to cut a buffalo hide into thin strips, and placed them end to end to form a huge circumference. The king realised that he had been tricked by the old woman, but he adhered to his word, and the stupa was constructed according to these dimensions. Nowadays, the stupa is the most popular site for Buddhists in Nepal, and throughout the day pilgrims can be seen circumambulating the structure chanting mantras. It is especially spectacular at night when adorned with butter lamps. Remember to walk around the stupa in a clockwise direction and also to spin the prayer wheels clockwise. Information on Buddhism and the points of etiquette at Buddhist sites: Buddhism Foreigners pay 400 Rs., but this can be waived for guests of hotels at the other side of the stupa. (updated Apr 2023)

### Monasteries & nunneries

* Dilyak Monastery, PO Box No. 4512, Boudha, Kathmandu, Nepal, ☏ +977 1-478-432, +977 1 478-320. Dilyak Dabzang Monastery is the oldest original Karma Kagyu monastery in Boudha, Nepal. The monastery was established by Very Ven. 7th Dabzang Rinpoche year 1963 near the great stupa of Boudha.
* Khachoe Ghakyil Ling Nunnery (The Kopan Nunnery), Boudha, Kathmandu, Nepal, ☏ +977 1-482-1236. Khachoe Chakyil Ling Nunnery (Kopan Nunnery) is the largest Tibetan nunnery in Nepal with over 400 nuns. The nunnery provides full scholarship for the nuns, which includes education, accommodation, health care & food. With help of generous supporters, the completion of its building plans, Kopan Nunnery will be the largest Tibetan nunnery in the World – able to house a thousand nuns. The aim is to create a place study and practice for nuns - a supportive & stable environment for women who wish to pursue a spiritual life.
* Khawalung Monastery, Boudha-Simaltar (take a taxis from Hyatt Hotel about 10 min drive), ☏ +977-1-4820205. A beautiful Tibetan Monastery near Boudhanath Stupa. It is inaugurated by Trulshik Rinpoche and Shechen Rabjam Rinpoche in October 2005. The monastery has an elementary and a training school. It consists of monks from remote region of Nepal and Tibet. There are many exquisite Tibetan Buddhist wall paintings.
* Kopan Monastery, North of Boudhanath (go north from the Stupa - ask anyone - 40-min walk or take taxi), ☏ +977-1 4821 268, kopan@mail.com.np. Kopan is a thriving monastery of 360 monks, mainly from Nepal and Tibet, and a spiritual oasis for hundreds of visitors annually from around the world. Nearby is Khachoe Ghakyil Ling Nunnery, home to 380 nuns. The monastery and the nunnery are under the spiritual guidance of Lama Zopa Rinpoche, and the care of the abbot, Khen Rinpoche Geshe Lhundrup Rigsel. And it is the wellspring of the FPMT, a network of some 140 centres and activities world-wide, themselves expressions of the Buddha activity of Lama Thubten Yeshe and Lama Zopa Rinpoche. Kopan offers study and meditation for serious students, casual visitors and retreaters.
* Pullahari Monastery & Retreat Centre, P.O. Box 11015, Jagdol, Ward Kopan, ☏ +977 1 4498196. Pullahari is the seat of His Eminence Jamgon Kongtrul Rinpoche in Nepal, located in the foothills north of the Great Stupa of Boudhanath. In the secluded serenity with spacious views, the age-old tradition of prayers, rituals, training, and education of monks continues in the monastery, and also in the Mahamudra retreat centre. In addition, residential courses for lay practitioners are offered at the Rigpe Dorje Institute, and the facilities for individual retreat are open throughout the year.
* Shechen Monastery in the alleys near the stupa. A very spacious and beautiful temple founded by the late Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche. There is a garden restaurant near the monastery guest house.

### Temples and museums

* 27.71049585.3486452 Pashupatinath (5 km north-east of Kathmandu Valley, or 20-minute walk past several temples from Boudhanath). An important Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva in the form of Lord of the Beasts. While entrance to the temple proper is allowed for Hindus only, the surrounding area provides much to explore. It's the location of cremation ghats (steps) on the banks of the Bagmati River. You will also see sadhus, a busy market for religious items and a holy cave. Morning is a good time to visit, but evenings can be very impressive, too with a massive pooja ceremony happening every night around 19:00 with crowds of worshippers joining in the singing and dancing around the cremation ghats. 1,000 Rs. (updated Apr 2023)
* Taragaon Museum, Boudhnath, Tridevi Sadak (In the compound of the Hyatt Regency Kathmandu stands the former Taragaon Hotel,), ☏ +977 4497505, +977 14481786, museumdirect@taragaon.com. M-Sa 10:00-17:00, Su 10:00-17:00. turn it into a do umentation centre documenting what artists, photographers, architects, anthropologists and Samskritists from abroad had contributed in the second half of the 20th century to identify, highlight and preserve the cultural heritage of the Kathmandu Valley.

## Do

* Circumambulate the stupa (walk clockwise - ie keep the stupa on your right side). This is the main activity of pilgrims and many tourists too. One lap is about 150 m. At the far side from the main gate entrance it is possible to walk up on to the stupa itself during the daytime.
* Monastery tour: please practice good manners. Ask the first monk or nun you see at the place (monastery or nunnery) you wish to visit for permission, before wandering around their home grounds. Some (not all) encourage the public to visit by offering guided tours, classes, puja services, meals, & gift shops. While on their sacred grounds, be respectful, don't smoke, turn off mobile phones, lower your voice, leave your shoes outside before entering any temples or buildings, & get permission before taking pictures. Bear in mind that monasteries & nunneries are sanctuaries for inner practice, not tourist attractions. Most (if not all) of them welcome donations.

## Learn
### Buddhism

* Kopan Monastery$^{[deadlink]}$. Founded by Lama Yeshe and Lama Zopa as the core of what has become an international network of Gelugpa dharma centers, the Foundation for the Preservation of the Mahayana Tradition (FPMT). Located near Baudha, Kopan offers ten-day meditation courses regularly throughout the year, and a month-long course (for which it is famous) every November-to-December. Reservations are necessary
* Rangjung Yeshe Institute. An international institute for Buddhist higher studies, modeled on a traditional Tibetan Buddhist College. The institute is affiliated with Kathmandu University, and is located on the premises of the monastery Ka-Nying (short for "Kagyu and Nyingma") Shedrup Ling. It offers bachelor's and master's degrees in Buddhist Studies with Himalayan Language (Tibetan, Nepali, and Sanskrit), as well as six week stand alone intensive courses in each.

## Buy

There are many handicraft shops around the stupa. This may be the best place in Nepal for Buddhist & Tibetan related items - statues, prayer flags, Tibetan incense, etc.
* Himalayan Singing Bowl Centre (Shanta Ratna Shakya), Boudha Stupa, Kathmandu (One of the many shops directly infront of the Great Boudha Stupa), ☏ +977 9851046748. Sells hand-made singing bowls. Singing bowls are a new concept and did not exist in Tibet as instruments of healing (updated Jul 2018)
* Rokpa, Boudha (Coming from the stupa, a two minute walk. Turn to left at fork (Shechen on right). Located in the compound of Rokpa Guesthouse.), ☏ +977 9823532663, info@rokpawww.org. 9AM-5PM. A charity empowering disadvantaged women. Handmade bags and meditation cushions. Products are well made with innovative designs. NRS1,000-2,500. (updated Jun 2024)

## Eat

* Boudha Stupa Restaurant & Cafe, Boudha (Inner circle, Boudha Stupa), ☏ +977 1-4478555. 12. Specializes in Nepali and Tibetan cuisine. Veg & Non-veg meals. Clay overn pizzas. Views over the stupa. Rs200 for meal. (updated Jul 2018)
* Himalayan Cafe, Boudha Stupa (from main gate to the stupa, walk anti-clockwise around the stupa 3/4 of one lap - HC is on the left), ☏ +977 1 4492274. Clean cafe offering traditional Tibetan & Western breakfast, lunch & dinner. Cafe is above Buddhist shop & is on 3, 4 & 5th floors overlooking the stupa. Excellent veggie burger with fried for Rs120. Small pot of milk tea Rs75. Wi-Fi.
* Stupa Dining Restaurant With Garden, Boudha, Dhara Tole, before turning to Hyatt Road. Local restaurant with good, clean, cheap food, and with live music.

## Drink

Cafes in Kathmandu generally offer free WIFI.
For the sake of brevity, 'Shree Boudha and Melamchi Ghyang Guthi' is referred to by its local English name, 'the Tibetan Temple,' in the listings below.

### Coffee

* Cafe Caravan, Boudha Stupa (Inner circle. Two minutes to the left after entering the main gate), ☏ +977 980-3633783. 7AM-7PM. Excellent coffee and desserts. Western favourites, muesli, French toast, pasta, and local food, momos and thukpa. Cosy interior - a cross between Freak Street and Dolpo. Personalized service from owner. A number of stupa-facing window seats. Highly recommended carrot cake. Cappuccino - Nrs220. (updated Jun 2024)
* Flavors, Inner circle, Boudha Stupa, (taking the main gate to the stupa as 6 o'clock, Flavors is at 10 o'clock), ☏ +4495484. Tucked away at the end of alley. Outdoor seating only. Good coffee. Excellent food. Cappuccino - Nrs290. (updated Jun 2024)
* Himalayan Java Coffee, Inner circle, Boudha Stupa. Daily: 7AM-8:15PM. Boudha branch of the ubiquitous Himalayan Java chain. Spacious and chic. Small number of seats offering views over the stupa. Excellent coffee. Cappuccino - Nrs275. (updated Jun 2024)
* Kar.ma Coffee, Boudha (Exit stupa just before the Tibetan Temple. Follow the path to the right. Cafe is on the left, just past Flowers Hotel), ☏ +977 986-6273244. Su,M,W: 7AM-7PM, Sa,Tu, Th, F: 8AM-7PM. Cosy, elegant cafe. Excellent coffee and cakes. Stylish and earthy handmade cups and coffee-making utensils on sale. Indoor and outdoor seating. Cappuccino - Nrs250. (updated Jun 2024)
* Roadhouse Cafe, Inner circle, Boudha Stupa, ☏ +977 1-4916446. 11AM-10PM. Large and spacious with contemporary design. Excellent wood-fired pizza. Rooftop seating. Views over the stupa. Cappuccino - Nrs395. (updated Jun 2024)
* Ugyen Cafe, Shechen Monastery (Exit stupa just before Tibetan Temple. Take left fork and then right fork. Enter main gate of monastery. Cafe is within sight to the left). Daily: 7AM-8PM. Elegant cafe inside monastery compound. Large outside seating area, including Zen-style floor space. Excellent coffee and desserts. Small selection of Buddhist books and magazines to read on the premise. Cappuccino - Nrs160. (updated Jun 2024)
* Utpala Cafe, Boudha (Exit stupa just before Tibetan Temple. Follow the path to the right. Utpala is on the left a few minutes after Flowers Hotel.), ☏ +977 9810700763, utpalacafeboudha1@gmail.com. Daily: 7AM-9PM. Pure vegan restaurant with ethics. Good coffee. Wide range of tasty Indian and Italian dishes. Healthy juices. Reasonable prices. Only outdoor seating in a beer garden-like setting. Good place to grab a meal, but not to relax and hang out. Cappuccino - Nrs130. (updated Jun 2024)

## Sleep

There are dozens of hotels & guesthouses not listed here. Check bulletin boards in cafe/bakeries for individuals offering rooms for rent by the week or month.

### Budget

* Dragon Guesthouse, Mahankal, Boudha (Behind Shechen Monastery). A pleasant guesthouse with garden, restaurant, and free Wi-Fi. Convenient for Boudha Stupa. Nrs1,300 for single. (updated Jun 2024)
* Tharlam GuestHouse, ☏ +977 1 4472550, +977 1 4496878, tharlamgh@yahoo.com. Some of the rooms are nice and clean but the ones downstairs, with kitchen, not so much. They have rats and little cockroaches. It's at the end of a very narrow and dark alley, and there have been lots of robberies at night. Not recommendable. Beside/affiliated with the beautiful Tharlam Sasang Namgyal Ling Monastery. One bedroom for 1 person: Rs400; twin beds or double bed for 2: Rs$800; Suite or bedroom with kitchen: Rs1200; (prices: 2011) about 100 m NE of the Boudha Stupa.

### Mid-range

* Hotel Butsugen, Boudha (A five minute walk from the stupa), ☏ +977 4587368. A bright an airy hotel. Close to stupa. Free WIFI. Breakfast included in rates. Approx US$50 for twin room.
* Rokpa Guesthouse, Boudha (Two minute walk from the stupa. Take left at fork (right side to Shechen)), info@rokpaguesthouse.org. A charity run guesthouse. Profits used to support underprivileged youth. Staff are trainees from disadvantaged backgrounds. Cosy rooms. Cafe and restaurant. Garden. Shop selling goods made by women from underprivileged families. US$40 (basic). (updated Jun 2024)
* Shechen Guest House, ☏ +977 1 4479009. In the grounds of Shechen Monastery in Boudha has clean & good quality rooms with private bathrooms for about USD10 (2011). Guesthouse also has garden with restaurant/coffee shop facilities & is within a five minute walk of Bodhnath Stupa.

### Splurge

* Hyatt Regency Kathmandu, PO Box 9609, Taragaon, Boudha (10 km from the city centre of Kathmandu, on the road to Boudhanath Stupa), ☏ +977 1 449 1234, reservation.kathmanduhr@hyattintl.com. 5-star hotel with 290 rooms & suites. The hotel offers a health & beauty spa, swimming pool, wading pool for children & an outdoor whirlpool. It's 4 km from Tribhuvan International Airport & within walking distance of Bodhanath Stupa.

## Respect

In the vicinity of sacred sites:
* Wear clothing that expresses respect for the sacred nature of the site.
* Take your shoes off before entering temple buildings and some shops. Follow the lead of the locals.
* Circumambulate the stupa & other sacred objects in a clock-wise direction.
* Preserve the peace and tranquility.
* Do not climb onto statues or other sacred objects.
* Do not take pictures of people without their permission.

## Stay healthy
### Tibetan Medicine

There are numerous Tibetan healing centres around Boudha. Listed below are two of the more popular ones.
* Kunphen. https://www.facebook.com/p/Boudha-Kunphen-Tibetan-Medical-Center-100032893160667/ Inner circle Stupa. Clinic with long history in Kathmandu. Closed Sunday.
* Pure Vision Sorig. https://purevisionsorig.org/ In alley behind Himalayan Java Cafe, +977-9800879295 . Resident doctor graduated from Dalai Lama's institute of medicine in 1996. The clinic includes a natural food store (Nupa), specializing in organic products from the Himalayan region. M-F: 9AM-5PM
Kanti Dental Clinic does general dental work including cleanings for Rs450. Located off the main road into Boudha, less than 100 m east of the Stupa main gate on the same side of the road. Open 7 days a week.

## Connect

Most cafes in Boudha offer free WiFi for the convenience of customers.

## Go next

* Changunarayan - small village and home to the ancient temple of Changu Narayan which is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Kathmandu Valley. It's possible to catch a public bus to the beginning of the ascend to Changunarayan and then just hike it towards the top of the hill for half an hour.
* Pashupatinath. An important temple to Shiva in the form of Lord of Animals. See monkeys, cremation, sadhus and a holy cave. The temple is a short taxi ride, or 20 minute walk past several temples, from Boudhanath. While entrance to the temple is allowed for Hindus only, the surrounding forest area provides much to explore. Rs1000.
* Pharping. A sacred site one hour from Kathmandu.