# Malé

Malé (މާލެ), pronounced Maa-leh, is the capital of Maldives. The city occupies the entire islet of Malé at the southern rim of North Malé Atoll. Malé is occasionally dismissed by travellers as a mere transit point with "nothing to do", and it is indeed not a party place. However, it does have a distinctive character of its own, with narrow streets, colourful houses and a strong communal feel, and it may be interesting to stop a little longer and soak in the atmosphere if you've got time on your hands.

## Understand

Malé is home to over 250,000 people, on island only 1.87 km (1.16 mi) long and 1.5 km (0.93 mi) wide. By some measures, it is the world's densest city. The new island of Hulhumalé, built (as the name says) between Malé and Hulhulé (the airport island), has been reclaimed from the sea to provide some much-needed extra space.
The neighbouring islands Hulhumalé (artificial) and Villimalé are served by frequent and very cheap public ferries and provide much quieter get-aways from the capital city. To see the "real" Maldives (i.e. the ones familiar from postcards) you have to get further away, of course.

### Orientation

Malé's main street Boduthakurufaanu Magu, home to banks and most government buildings, runs across the coastline of the island. Roughly in the middle is the square of Jumhooree Maidhaan (Republic Square), a handy reference point since it has a giant flagpole visible from far away. From the flagpole extends a series of ten jetties running eastward, with jetty #1 (the Presidential Jetty) right in front of the square and jetties #9 and #10, used by the airport ferry, at the northeastern tip of the island.

## Get in

* 4.19183373.5291111 Velana International Airport (MLE ) (on the neighboring island of Hulhulé). The airport has a bank, money changers, ATM, food court, luggage storage located just outside the arrivals area, and a nursing room. Free wi-fi (2h) is available. For more information visit the friendly information kiosk at arrivals. Note that you will not be allowed into the airport's air-conditioned departures area until flight check-in opens, usually 2-3h before your flight. (updated Mar 2019)
Most visitors to the Maldives are met by travel agent representatives right outside customs, who then whisk them away to their resorts by speedboat or seaplane. If your destination is the city itself, turn left and head for the public ferry dock. Ferries (MVR10, 10min) leave the airport every 15min from 06:00 to 20:30, and every 30min until 00:00; in the opposite direction they run from 05:30 to 23:00. Another option is to take a taxi or bus. There are fixed rates for taxis ranging from MVR70-90 based on distance (i.e. Malé, Hulhumalé Phase I, or Hulhumalé Phase II).

## Get around

Malé is small enough to walk around in an hour, and almost all sights are concentrated on the north shore, within a 15-min walk from the airport ferry.
Public transportation in Malé City is available in taxis, which charge a fixed rate of Rf 30, Rf 70 Malé to the airport, Rf 80 Hulhumalé phase 1 to the airport, Rf 85 Hulhumalé phase 2 to the airport, Rf 85 between Malé and Hulhumalé phase 1, Rf 100 between Malé and Hulhumalé phase 2, Rf 40 between Hulhumalé phase 1 and phase 2, Rf 5 extra between 00:00 and 06:00. No charge for trunk usage. Taxis can be booked via Avas Ride mobile app.
MTCC Greater Malé Bus operates metro bus service between Malé, Hulhumalé and within Hulhumalé and Malé, shuttle bus service between Malé, Hulhulé and Hulhumalé, Hulhulé, which charges Rf 10 to main routes, Rf 5 within Hulhumalé, Rf 7 within Malé, Rf 15 between Hulhumalé phase 2, Malé and Hulhulé. You could pay directly with contactless Visa/Mastercard/Amex, or a touchlink card which can be purchased for Rf 20. MTCC bus tickets can also be bought via Raajje Transport Link (RTL) website and mobile app. Metro buses are not able to hold luggage.
Expect the buses to be crowded during rainy weather, and take the timings as a rough estimate, since traffic density weighs down heavily on them.
MTCC ferries run between Malé and Hulhumalé from Henveiru ferry terminal (same building as the airport ferry) every 1h (MVR10, 20min), departing 07:30-23:30 from Malé and 07:00-23:00 from Hulhumalé.

## See

* 4.17801573.5123751 Friday Mosque (Hukuru Miskiy). Built in 1656 during the reign of Sultan Ibrahim Iskandar I, intricately carved with Arabic writings and ornamental patterns.
* 4.17778473.5101882 Kalhu Vakaru Miskiy (northwest corner of Sultan Park). One of the most historic mosques in the city.
* 4.1791473.5110643 Republic Square (Jumhooree Maidhaan), Boduthakururufaanu Magu (Malé's centrepoint, on the north coast). This little park, marked by a flagpole with a giant Maldivian flag, was the area where the events of 7 February 2012 led to the resignation of the president. It's also the focal point of every political demonstration in the capital, and hence has a heavy security presence buttressed by the police HQ in the Shaheed Hussain Adam Building next door. If you're feeling lost, there is an extremely helpful tourist map here, marked with most of the major locations in Malé. (updated Sep 2017)
* 4.17850573.5105134 Islamic Centre (Masjid Al-Sultan Muhammad Thakurufaanu al-Auzam) (Orchid Magu, just south of Jumhooree Maidhaan (Republic Square)). Malé's best-known architectural landmark. The complex contains the largest mosque in the Maldives, topped with a golden dome and capable of accommodating 5,000 people. Visitors are welcome inside outside prayer hours.
* 4.17832773.5114815 Ministry of Defence HQ (Bandaara Koshi, Bandeyrige), Ameer Ahmed Magu (off Republic Square, opp Islamic Center). Emphatically, not a tourist attraction, the sinister, windowless white bulk of the renamed National Security Service (the Maldivian secret police), topped with guard towers every few meters and strict admonitions not to photograph it, is an unmissable sight in central Malé and a reminder of the iron fist that has the country in a stranglehold.
* 4.1772673.5101626 Sultan Park and National Museum. Sa-Th 09:00-17:00. The sole surviving building of what was once the Sultan's palace is now the Maldivian National Museum, housing a scruffy, haphazard collection of royal regalia and old photographs, including three moon rocks and a faded Maldivian flag that went to the moon. At least there's air-con and some semblance of English explanation. There is also a collection of antiquities that showcase Maldivian history. Park free, museum US$3 or Rf 38.
* Ali Rasgefaanu Ziyaarai (close to the Villimalé Ferry Terminal). Whoever is interested in a mausoleum of a sultan, or who wants to know how big the island of Malé was before its lagoon was filled up and reclaimed for more space above sea-level, this location is always in good shape and gives a nice landmark from which to take photos. Hulhumalé
* Hulhumalé is in a short bus or boat ride away. Boats leave from their own terminal, next to airport ferries (upstairs of the terminal building is a good restaurant with great harbour views!). Hulhumalé is an artificial island where new buildings are rising rapidly. There is also a nice looking beach on the other end of the island from the jetty. There are restaurants and cafes on the island.
* Villimalé is in a short boat ride away. It's the fifth ward of Malé (counts as part of the city) and was once a resort. When arriving by ferry, turn immediately left to come to the beach and some old bungalows. Beaches on the other side of the island feature strong currents, so beware, casualties are reported there every year. Compared to the bustle of Malé, this ward is much more relaxed. There are two PADI dive centers on the island: Diver's Lodge Maldives and Moodhu Bulhaa Dive Centre. Moodhu Bulhaa is also a PADI Instructor Development Center. Frequent ferries run from the Villimalé Ferry Terminal on the western end of Malé (MVR3.25, 10min).
* 4.17766673.5125017 Medhu Ziyaaraiy. The tomb of Abu al-Barakat Yusuf al-Barbari, said to have introduced Islam to the Maldives in 1153. (updated Jan 2018)
* 4.1773973.5116478 Dharumavantha Mosque. Mosque built in the 12th century by Dhovemi, the first Muslim king and founder of the Theemuge dynasty.

## Do

* There is a small artificial beach on the east coast, about a ten-minute stroll from the airport ferry. It's not much compared to other beaches on the Maldives, especially as most locals bathe fully clothed, but there is some excellent surfing if you're experienced enough, including the southeast corner of Malé near the Sinamalé Bridge.
* Whale Submarine, H. Abadhahfehi Magu, ☏ +960 333 3939. You may not see whales, but this 30- to 40-minute submarine trip will expose you to the ocean life just off the coast of Malé. Sit on the left-hand side of the submarine for the best views and don't drink too much water before you leave-- there's no toilet on board! Operate every day except Monday and Friday. The payment has to be made in US dollars and they only accept cash. (updated Nov 2018)
* Cruise-maldives.com, ☏ +960 755 0772, sales@cruise-maldives.com. Departing from Malé or Hulhumalé you can book in advance day tour and activities such as snorkelling & sandbank cruises, a full day trip to luxury resorts, sunset dolphins cruises, fishing cruises, etc. You can also book a private safari boat and cruise among the Maldives for a few days, book water sport activities and reserve budget private transfer to the resorts.

## Buy

* At the fish market Local Market (on the Northern waterfront, a block away from the Malé Fish Market). Divided into small stalls, with each stall selling local products from the atolls. Here you will find different kinds of local vegetables, fruits, yams, breadfruit chips, bananas, and smoked and dried fish.
* 4.18036573.5098581 Fish Market (just west of Republic Square, with a cluster of fishing boats, docked just opposite). This is where fish are brought, gutted, and sold for local consumption. With a strong fish odour and pools of tuna blood running into the street, it’s not exactly sanitary. Upstairs, there’s a café serving short eats, which is busiest in the afternoons.
* 4.17912873.5094892 STO People's Choice Supermart, Orchid Magu. State Trading Organization's supermarket retailing mostly generic imported goods from India, Singapore and the Middle East. Not particularly exciting, but vastly cheaper than the resorts, and a good place to pick up Maldivian tuna and local snacks.
* Majeedhee Magu. Shops remain open from 09:00 for most of the day until 23:00 except between 18:00 and 20:00 and for 15 minutes after each Muslim prayer time. A street running across the length of Malé from east to west. This is the main shopping area of the capital city, where you can buy apparel imported from South East and South Asia.
* 4.17197573.5033013 South West Harbour Area. Lined with cafés popular with locals during all hours of the day. Here you will also find the ferry terminal to Villimalé island, a satellite island of Malé City with regular ferries departing every 5 minutes costing Rf 3 each way. Villimalé island has the only natural beaches left in Malé City and is ideal for snorkelling.

## Eat

During Ramadan, many cafes and restaurants are closed, or only open after sunset. The restaurant at the Nasandhura Palace Hotel (see Sleep) is open during the day.
* Waterfront Franchise Building (opposite the Domestic Terminal). has a food court on the second floor with Pizza Hut, Costa Coffee, KFC, Harvest Market, and Secret Recipe. There's a remarkable view of the lagoon and the skyline of Malé in the distance.
* The Hive Café, Cypria building, Ground Floor, Boduthakurufaanu Magu (in front of Jetty no. 3), ☏ +960 334 6633. The Hive Café offers the best burgers in town, with a variety of other pastry items and drinks.
* The Hive Restaurant, M. Nalahiyaage, Majeedhee Magu, ☏ +960 334 6633. Located on top of Beehive Nalahiya Hotel, a magnificent 360° view of Malé in addition to delicious international cuisines at a relaxed environment.
* Café Marine Drive. Enjoy great food at a reasonable price.
* Saffron Café, Boduthakurufaanu Magu (near Hulhumalé ferry terminal). A mix of wonderful international cuisines.
* 4.17796573.5155461 Jade Bistro, In front of jetty #8. Air-conditioned, pleasant coffee shop with Wi-Fi. They serve croissants, pastries and basic meals. Cappuccino US$2.50, Rf 20-30.
* Maarukeytu Hota (2nd floor of fish market). Local, busy and noisy Maldivian eatery full of fishermen from the market below. No English menu, but the staff are happy to help out. A serve of grilled fish, curry, rice and drinks won't cost more than Rf 30 or so. Rf 20-30.
* Olive Garden, Orchid de Magu St (walking distance from jetty 1). Pizza, pasta and the usual suspects, spiced up to Maldivian tastes — warn the waiter in advance if you don't like chili! US$5-15, Rf 50.
* Pool Side, Hulhulé Island Hotel (on the airport island). Popular among locals and expats alike for steaks.
* Shell Beans. Popular sandwich shop. US$2, Rf 20-30.
* Thai Wok, One block from Jetty 6-7-8. Tasty, authentic Thai food. US$5-8, Rf 50.
* 4.17697873.5150552 FoodBank, Orchid magu (opp;MHA supermart), ☏ +960 777-5725. 09:00-00:30. Some of the best seafood and local cuisine in town. European and Indian food also available. US$6-40.
* 4.17382873.5182333 Breakwater, Boduthankurufaanu Magu (right behind the artificial beach), ☏ +960 331-4543. 08:00–00:00 daily. Open air café serving delicious local and Asian (especially Thai) cuisine with an eye for spice. Waitstaff are friendly but service can be slow; the wait is worth it, however, for the food and the beautiful seaside view. US$4-8, Rf 60-120. (updated Sep 2017)
* 4.17791873.5099114 Seagull Café, Fareedhee Magu (right across the street from Sultan Park's mosque), ☏ +960 332-3332, cafe@seagullmaldives.com. Sa–Th 09:00–00:00; F 16:00–00:00. A two-floor outdoor café with a large and decent menu. The real draw, however, is the gelataria, which serves the best ice cream on the island. Rf 50-120. (updated Sep 2017)

## Drink

No alcohol is available on Malé, even at the hotels, with the solitary exception of the Hulhulé Island Hotel.
* Hulhulé Island Hotel (HIH) (Jetty 1). 06:00 to 00:45.
* Meraki Coffee Roasters, G.Blue Stream, Husnuheena Magu (from corner of Hithaffinivaa Magu and Husnuheenaa Magu walk south for about 30 meters, it will be on your right). 14:00-22:00. Selection of small batch international coffees roasted on site and prepared in various ways and styles, all seemingly delicious. Some basic pastries, otherwise no food available. No WiFi. (updated Mar 2022)
* Ocean Bubbles, Dhigga Magu, Hulhumalé - Majeedhee Magu. Sa-Th 09:00-23:30, F 16:00-23:30. Bright contemporary & an ocean-front atmosphere offering Modern, vibrant counter-serve stop for a selection of authentic Taiwanese bubble tea with an eclectic and fun choice of coffee, tea drinks, slushes & Snacks! (updated Mar 2022)
* Family Room Coffee, Lot 20018, Beach Road, Phase 2, Hulhumalé. Sa-Th 08:30-23:30, F 07:30-11:30, 13:30-23:30. Beachfront cafe community, serving Specialty Coffee, Specialty tea, cakes, Sandwiches, BBQ and pastries. Homely environment. and friendly crew. A third space concept. Chill environment for friends and families. Board games, Kids Corner too! (updated Feb 2023)

## Sleep

Many visitors to the Maldives end up spending a night on Malé City out of necessity, as transfers to more far-flung resorts are generally only available during daylight hours. Malé's guesthouses are targeted primarily at travelling locals and may not provide air-conditioning. The price starts at US$20. Guesthouses can be rented through Airbnb.
Hotels in Malé City cost about US$40 to US$240 per night. You will find many hotels on the artificial island Hulhumalé which tend to be cheaper, and you may expect a beachfront room for US$31 or a bit more. It's a good idea to book before arriving in the Maldives as immigration will want to know where you are staying. If you are a tourist, tourist tax is added to the price.

### Budget

* Luckyhiya Hotel, ☏ +960 3315856, fax: +960 3340953, info@luckyhiyahotel.mv. Friendly budget option.
* Sunny Suites Inn, Dhigga Magu, Hulhumalé, ☏ +960 335-0611. 20 min from Malé by boat, but no direct access from the airport. Air-conditioned and pet friendly.

### Mid-range

* 4.17423173.5028421 Beehive Nalahiya Hotel, Shaheed Ali Hingun, ☏ +960 334 6633, fax: +960 334 5533, info@beehivehotels.com. The hotel's 42 rooms range from deluxe to suites and serviced apartments. Other facilities at the hotel include a lobby café, a conference hall, meeting room, a business centre and a roof-top restaurant.
* Candies, Dheefuram Goalhi, Henveiru, ☏ +960 331 0220, sales@candies.mv. Clean rooms and internet in every room.
* Central Hotel, G. Sanoaraage, Rahdhebai Magu, ☏ +960 317766. In the middle of Malé, a passable mid-range option.
* Kam Hotel, Roanuge, Meheli Goalhi.
* 4.17716473.5170632 Mookai Hotel, Kaimoo THS, H. Maagala, Meheli Goalhi, ☏ +960 322 212. Breakfast not included in the price. Nice swimming pool on rooftop.
* Nasandhura Palace. Built in 1981 and starting to be a little scruffy around the edges. Primarily a business hotel, with no pool or other holiday facilities. 10 min from airport by boat. US$120.
* 5.266973.12873 Baros Maldives, North Male Atoll (from Velaana International Airport– 15.4 km), ☏ +960 664 26 72, Reservations@baros.com. One of the longest-running resorts in the Maldives, open since 1973. 25 min by speedboat from the airport.

### Splurge

* 4.19476273.5261374 Hulhulé Island Hotel, Airport Main Rd, ☏ +960 333-0888. Quite possibly the world's nicest transit hotel, this is on the same island as the airport, with a swimming pool, its own strip of beach and complimentary transfers to Malé. Not cheap, though. US$250.

## Respect

Dress respectfully if visiting Malé. Men should wear at least T-shirts and shorts below the knee, while women should keep their shoulders and legs covered.

## Stay safe

Anti-government protests have broken out at various times in the past two decades, often turning into riots that were sometimes brutally suppressed by the government. Avoid participating in protests or political activism.
The narrow roads can become traffic-congested, and often flood during the two monsoon seasons.
Crime rates in Malé are low, although some advise not walking around alone after dark.

## Cope
### Embassies and consulates

* China, H.Nookurikeela, Dhunbugas Magu, ☏ +960 30 10640, fax: +960 30 10637, chinaemb_mdv@mfa.gov.cn.
* United States, 210 Galle Road, Colombo 3, ☏ +94 11 249-8500, fax: +94 11 249-8590. Embassy

## Go next

From Malé, resorts all around the Maldives pick people up and whisk them to their idyllic shores. If you are in the Maldives for longer than a few days, you should consider leaving Malé and checking out another island such as:
* Mahibadhoo the capital island of Alif Dhaal Atoll, 78 km (42 nautical miles) south-west of Malé
* Maafushi