# Eigg

Eigg is one of the Small Isles, lying 10 miles off the west coast of Scotland, and with a population of just under 100. The name means "notched" and it's a moorland plateau cleaved by a valley, with the dramatic scarp of An Sgurr looming over it. It's been variously farmed and fought over: its brief moment of prosperity was in the early 19th century from kelp farming. Then, as elsewhere in the Highlands, that trade collapsed, and Eigg followed the unhappy pattern of clearances, conversion to sheep farming and sporting estates, and long-running disputes between residents and landowners. Since 1997 it's been owned and cared for by the residents' Isle of Eigg Heritage Trust, who post visitor information.

## Get in

First get to Mallaig by train, bus or car. You'll need an overnight stop before taking the Calmac ferry onward next morning, except perhaps for the Saturday and Sunday afternoon sailings.
The ferry sails to different Small Isles on different days. April-October it calls at Eigg and returns to Mallaig daily except Wednesdays; there are two sailings on Saturday. Day trips from Mallaig to Eigg are possible on Monday (4 hours ashore), Thursday (2 hours) and Friday & Saturday (3 hours). November-March the ferry calls on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. Day trips are possible on Wednesday and Friday, but with only 90 minutes ashore.
Sightseeing trips from Arisaig frequently visit Eigg from May to September.
All routes are for foot passengers only; dogs and bikes are welcome but you can't bring a car. Return fares from Mallaig until end of March 2025 are £9.50 adult, £4.80 child.
56.8798-6.12681 Eigg ferry pier is at Galmisdale on the southeast corner of the island, sheltered by the islet of Eilean Chathastail. It's just a slipway with no waiting room, toilets or the like.

## Get around

The island is about 5 miles north-south by 3 miles east-west. Walk or cycle, bike hire is available, see below.
Charlie's Taxi (☏ +44 1687 482404) can lug you and your stuff from the pier if your accommodation doesn't offer a pick-up.

## See

* Kildonnan, by the next bay north of the ferry landing, was a monastic community in the era of St Columba. There's a Celtic High Cross and the ruins of a chapel, built (but perhaps never completed) 16th to 17th century, probably over the site of a much earlier church.
* 56.872-6.1251 Eilean Chathastail the islet 100 yards off Galmisdale may be a mistranslation: "chatastail" was taken to mean a castle, but there's no sign of one. In modern Gaelic it means "catastrophe", perhaps whatever obliterated the castle, such as the grumpy dinosaur whose bones were found in the north of Eigg. No ferry but it's a simple kayak or SUP crossing from Eigg. The lighthouse on its east side is a stubby metal tower built in 1906 by the Stevensons.
* 56.8736-6.14562 Massacre Cave is on the rugged south shore. Charred human remains have been found in it, and more turn up from time to time. The legend is that circa 1577, the islanders, of Clan Ranald, were hiding from marauders of Clan Macleod. They hid here but were eventually discovered; the Macleods built a fire at the entrance then damped it, creating smoke that asphyxiated all 395 within. So, no charring then? The story doesn't stand up, but Eigg was indeed pillaged in that period.
* 56.8729-6.15093 Cathedral Cave is another quarter mile west along the shore, but you'll have to scramble inland from Massacre Cave then down again. It's believed to have been used to hold mass during the persecutions of Catholics. Good job the minister wasn't delivering a Presbyterian sermon, as the cave is only accessible for three hours either side of low tide: use Easytide to look up the times using Garmisdale Pier as the reference port. "Cathedral" may also refer to the way the cave opens from a narrow entrance into a lofty cavern, which you need a torch to explore.
* 56.8804-6.17654 Grulin is the haunting ruins of a village whose 57 residents were evicted in 1853 to make way for sheep. Most went to Nova Scotia.
* 56.932-6.15735 Singing Sands are reached by a track from Cleadale. It's a quartzite beach which when dry will rasp or sing as you walk on it.
* Laig Bay just south also has a good beach but doesn't sing. Good views north to Rùm. The 16 stone cairns here are believed to be Pictish from 8th century.
* 56.925-6.1336 Bròg na Cubhaig is the sharp ridge east of Cleadale. The name means "shoe of the cuckoo" and also refers to a blue wildflower.

## Do

* 56.8841-6.166321 An Sgurr : at 393 m this striking crag is Eigg's highest point. A trail from the ferry landing leads to the summit, no technical climbing but very boggy in places then steep with a rocky scramble. A wall near the summit shows that this was once a fortified dun. Allow 3-4 hours round trip.
* Eigg Adventures do bike and kayak hire. They're at the ferry pier, open M-Sa 10AM until the ferry departs and briefly on Sunday.

## Buy

* Isle of Eigg Shop$^{[deadlink]}$ near the pier has groceries, essentials and souvenirs. Hours vary around the ferries, but roughly M-F 10AM-5PM year round, plus Sa 11AM-5PM and Su 3-4:30PM in summer.
* You can have provisions sent over from Mallaig, see Small Isles#Buy.

## Eat & drink

* Galmisdale Bay Cafe (at ferry pier), ☏ +44 1687 482487. M 10AM-5:30PM, Tu-Th 10AM-10PM, F Sa 10AM-11PM. Café, tearoom and bar right where you need it by the ferry pier. (updated Jul 2024)
* Brewery: Isle of Eigg Brewery midway along the island lane has a tap-room open May-Sep M W Sa 1-5PM. No tours.

## Sleep

* Eigg Camping Pods, ☏ +44 1687 482476. Cosy pods 200 yards up the lane from the pier. Two nights minimum. Pod £65. (updated Jul 2024)
* 56.8902-6.13331 Glebe Barn, ☏ +44 1687 315099. This hostel is usually block-booked by parties of 15-20 but may have availability for individuals. Bunk £24. (updated Jul 2024)
* 56.8889-6.12292 Kildonan House, ☏ +44 1687 482446. B&B in an 18th century farmhouse. (updated Jul 2024)
* 56.9192-6.14623 Lageorna, Cleadale, ☏ +44 1687 460081. Excellent welcoming small B&B in the north of the island. (updated Jul 2024)
* 56.9223-6.14494 Eigg Organics, Cleadale, ☏ +44 1687 482480. This organic croft has a bothy (a converted cattle shed), a cabin and a camping area. No dogs. (updated Jul 2024)
* Sweeney's Bothy 100 yards east of Eigg Organics is a chic Scandi-style self-catering cabin. It's not like a mountain bothy where you just eject the sheep and hunker down. Sweeney here refers to the legendary King Suibhne of Ulster, who went mad, stripped off and flew around the Irish Sea; these activities are optional for guests.

## Connect

* As of July 2024 there is 4G from all UK providers on Eigg, thanks in part to Hebnet, a community initiative that relays mainland networks from one island to another.

## Go next

* In summer day-trips are possible from Eigg to Rùm on Monday (2 hours ashore). Transfers from Eigg to Rùm, Muck and Canna are possible on other days.
* Eventually you have to come back to Mallaig on the mainland.
* Edinburgh: Eigg's many ancient remains are now in the National Museum of Scotland, for instance a Pictish grave slab and a Viking sword handle and longship. Look for them if you're passing through the city on the way to the Hebrides.