# Lomé

Lomé is the capital and largest city of Togo. With a population of almost 2.2 million (2023), the city is the economic and cultural center of the country. Around a quarter of the country's population lives here.

## Understand

Lomé was founded in the 19th century by Ewe people, and subsequently became a major port, trading and administrative center.
In 1897 Lomé became capital of the German colony Togoland. It remained the capital when France took over the colony following World War I and continued to grow throughout the colonial period and since independence.
In 1975 the Lomé Convention was signed between the European Economic Community and 46 African, Caribbean and Pacific states.

## Get in

The main border crossing from Ghana is Aflao, less than 2 km from the city centre. Visa on arrival is available at both airport and land border from Ghana for CFA 10,000 - 15,000 depending on your nationality and is good for one week. It can be extended for a month for no extra charge. As of January 2019, you can get a 3-month visa at the border for Ghana for 705 Ghana sedis (US$145).

### By plane

* 6.1658331.2541671 Lomé–Tokoin International Airport (LFW also known as Gnassingbé Eyadéma International Airport). The international airport has nonstop flights from cities in Africa, Europe, and North America. For North American flights, Ethiopian Airlines has flights from Newark, New York (JFK), and Washington (Dulles). For European flights, Brussells Airlines flies from Brussels, and Air France has flights from Paris (de Gaulle). For African flights, Ethiopian Airlines flies from Addis Ababa; Royal Air Maroc has flights from Casablanca; Air Côte d'Ivoire has flights from Abidjan; Air Burkina flies from Cotonou and Ouagadougou; and Ceiba Intercontinental Airlines flies from Malabo. In addition, regional carrier ASKY Airlines connects Lomé with many West African and Central African cities, including Abidjan, Abuja, Accra, Bamako, Bangui, Banjul, Bissau, Brazzaville, Conakry, Cotonou, Dakar (Diass), Douala, Freetown, Kinshasa (N'Djili), Lagos, Libreville, Monrovia (Roberts), N'Djamena, Niamey, Ouagadougou, Pointe-Noire, Praia, São Tomé, and Yaoundé.

## Get around

Motos are plentiful throughout the capital, and a good distance on a moto will cost you CFA 300. Taxis can be rented from around CFA 500, with CFA 2000 getting you basically anywhere in town. There are route taxis, costing normally CFA 200-400, but if you are visiting they are difficult to figure out and only ever really used by local folks.
The most in-demand app for getting around the city is Gozem. You can book rides on a motorcycle, tricycle (tuk-tuk), and a range of autos, from basic to luxurious. Prices are significantly cheaper than negotiating a price with a taxi driver on the street.
There are rental car agencies downtown, but if you are just coming for a few days motos are your best option.
The beach road runs directly beside the ocean from Ghana to Benin. The Boulevard Circulaire (le 13 Janvier) acts as a main artery through downtown Lomé, a hemisphere that encloses the Marche and Government buildings. It starts at the beach in Kodjoviakope and wraps around to the beach in Bea.

## See

* 6.131.2161 Independence Monument (Monument de L'independence) (across from the National Museum and Hotel 2 Fervier (tallest building in Lome)). Commemorates Togo's independence from France on 27 April 1960, with a human silhouette carved within it. (updated Dec 2020)
* 6.1250421.2262582 Sacred Heart Cathedral (Cathédrale du Sacré-Cœur de Lomé) (next to the Grand Marche), ☏ +228 22212273. The iconic cathedral of Lome that was built in 1902 and where Pope John Paul II celebrated mass in 1985. (updated Dec 2020)
* 6.12041.21213 Le Palais de Lomé (Lome Palace, Governor's Palace), 46C7+Q28 (Avenue des Nîmes) (Do not enter from Boulevard du Mono (N2), but from the rear of the complex (Avenue des Nîmes)), ☏ +22890139464, contact@palaisdelome.com. Daily 10:00-17:00, last admission 16:15. Surrounded by lush botanical gardens and plentiful bird life, this renovated and fully restored colonial building, which once housed the prime minister and other distinguished political guests, is now home to art exhibitions and plentiful historical items. Knowledgeable bilingual (English and French-speaking) guides are on hand to explain the palace's development and the city and region's history. The second-floor patio offers an extravagant view of the Gulf of Guinea and its container ships. CFA 2000-7000 depending on visitor nationality and day. (updated Feb 2025)

### Museums

* 6.1304821.2174734 Togo National Museum (Musée national du Togo), ☏ +228 22217140. Housed in the Palais du Congrès (National Assembly) complex, this museum contains collections, jewellery, musical instruments, dolls, pottery, weapons and many other objects showing the arts and traditions of Togo. Entrance CFA 1500. (updated Dec 2020)
* 6.132731.251955 Musée International du Golfe de Guinée (African historical item museum), 1603 Boulevard du Mono (next to the Hotel KRIMAS east of the Grand Marche), ☏ +228 93026080. M-Sa 08:00-17:00. A small museum housing a quite large collection of authentic mainly West African historical items, such as masks (even from the 14th century), wooden chairs, funeral ceremonial items such as stretchers and chests and similar. A bit off the city centre, on the beach but worth a detour if you have the time. May have been renamed Musee International Art d'Afrique. CFA 3000.

## Do

Enjoy beaches (but do take care for your safety), there are so many, such as:
* 6.15531.3141 Marcelo Beach (a few kilometres east of Lome center), ☏ +228 93686868. Bar and beach scene with palapas. Most likely an admission fee. (updated Jul 2020)
* 6.16621.3452 Royal Beach Lome, ☏ +228 93239317. Another bar/beach type setting that may or may not have an admission fee. (updated Jul 2020)
Closer to the center of town are Lake East and Lake West which might be somewhat interesting for walking along.
* 6.14831.23913 Lac Est. (updated Jul 2020)

## Buy

Lomé's biggest attractions are its markets.
The 6.1256091.2254151 Grand Market has a large 3-storey hall. It sells everything: red peppers, green lemons, dried fish, combs, travel bags, traditional medicinal remedies, and more. On the first floor is the Nana Benz, which is noted for its clothing.
The smaller and more specialized 6.1576321.2648572 Fetish Market (CFA 3000 entrance fee; CFA 2000 if taking photos) sells voodoo fetishes, gongons, and gris-gris.
There is also a souvenir market 6.1775141.3621683 Centre Artisinale. It sells wooden carvings, clay pots, authentic fabrics, local paintings, and African clothing. Most of them are made on spot and of great value. As always make sure to bargain.

## Eat

Local street food is plentiful, and a large plate of rice or pate costs 200CFA.
Lebanese restaurants are peppered throughout Lomé, with the best being in Kodjoviakope and wrapping around with the Boulevard. Recommended are Al Mohatas by the Route de Kpalime and Al Sultan's in Kodjoviakope. Most plates cost CFA 1,000-2,000.
There are two Chinese restaurants, one in Kodjoviakope, the other in Asigame, down the street from the Togocel main offices.
* 6.1257631.2220111 Le Galion, Rue Camomille, ☏ +228 22 22 00 30. French-owned hotel near the beach in Kodjoviakope which has an excellent restaurant serving omelettes, steaks, spaghetti, salads and desserts. Mains cost CFA 3,000-5,000 and they have a set three-course menu for CFA 6,500.
* 6.136321.211962 Le Caliendi - Café Bar Restaurant, 1097 Ave de Calais, ☏ +228 91 48 48 41. Local flavors.
* 6.1399711.2720973 Alt München, Boulevard Du Mono (near the roundabout at the freeport.), ☏ +228 22 276321. Munich cuisine, but a little bit expensive.
* 6.133151.247454 7 Spice, intersection of Rue de I'OCAM and Ru Ahepe, ☏ +228 91 72 11 11. Hindustan cuisine.
* 6.130591.240425 TBB Best Burger, Rue de l'Entente, ☏ +228 90 41 81 89. Burgers and milkshakes.
For a classy experience, you could try the Akwaba Pool Bar and Grill at the Hotel 2 Fevrier.
* 6.2117221.1882536 Bar La Fierté Bar & Resto (Bar La Fierté) (in Agoe anomé across from the Hôtel Maison Blanche), ☏ +228 96269191, barlafierteagoe@gmail.com. 09:00-23:00. 0. (updated Nov 2022)
* Le Namiélé, Hotel 2 Fevrier, Place de L'indépendence, Bp.131 (On the second floor of the upscale Hotel 2 Fevrier), ☏ +22822238600, http://foodbev@hotel2fevrierlome.com/. M-Sa 06:30–10:30 & 12:00-15:00; Su and public holidays 06:30-11:00 Sunday brunch 12:30-15:30. Located in the country's tallest building, this trendy dining spot offers a Sunday brunch buffet. The later in the afternoon, the more crowded it gets. The menu includes salads, sushi, Indian and Togolese food, desserts, and beverages. CFA 25000 for Sunday brunch buffett. (updated Feb 2025)

## Drink

Lomé really comes alive at night, the local Loméians dressing to the nines and going out to the numerous bars and discothèques. There are many western style dance clubs downtown. Two of the best (and most expensive) are Privilege, attached to the hotel Palm Beach and 7Clash, in Dekon on the Boulevard.
For a more relaxed time, check out the beach close to the border with Ghana - seating is plentiful and, if you're lucky, the Castle Milk Stouts are pretty cold. Be sure to get off of the beach soon after nightfall, as it is easily the most dangerous part of the city.
Local drinks can be found if you dig a little deeper. The local brew of choice is Tchouk, locally brewed millet beer. A calabash full at a tchouk-stand costs CFA 100 in the city. Other drinks are Deha - palm wine, and Sodabe - Togolese bathtub hooch - grain liquor that burns going down and coming back up. Be wary, it is only for the truly initiated.

## Sleep

Decent hotels (as in there is a bed, sink, and shower) are in northern Lomé and cost about CFA 15,000 - 16,000. Hotels are common the closer you get to the beach, the most expensive being the 2 Fevrier and Hotel Sarakawa, on the beach road. Amenities are very accommodating, but they are incredibly expensive for Lomé starting at CFA 100,000 per night.
There are a few nice hotels with fan/air-com in Kodjoviakope and surrounding areas that will run you CFA 7,000-15,000. Check out My Diana's, and for the budget traveller, ask for Mammy's, down the road from the Angolan Embassy (CFA 3,500 per room, rooms fit 2-3).

### Budget

* 6.11841.21011 Auberge Le Galion. Double rooms with ensuite bathroom. Walking distance to the Aflao border crossing. Safe neighbourhood, nice relaxed atmosphere with occational live music. Popular with expats. CFA 7000-15000 (fan/air-con). (updated Jan 2019)
* 6.1521.2482 Hôtel Napoléon Lagune / Restaurant / Bar, 01 rue 20 bkp, ☏ +228 22270732. Relaxed garden-like setting with a pool and restaurant right next to Lac Est (Lake East). Has nice decor. Some have complained about mosquitoes and TV not working, etc. Seems affordable at around US$28/night. (updated Jul 2020)
* 6.13321.2493 Hotel Aurore, Restaurant, Bar, Rue Dzidzedze (anciennement rue ALU) bp60178, ☏ +228 22210517. Close to beach with restaurant hot tub, attractive patio/bar and garden setting. Rather basic rooms but very budget priced ~US$18/night. (updated Jul 2020)

### Mid-range

* 6.1283051.2220934 Hôtel Résidence Océane, 42-44, Rue de la Gare, ☏ +228 90 05 71 29. (updated Dec 2016)
* 6.1213811.2181255 Hotel Le Benin, Avenue du Général de Gaulle, ☏ +228 22 212485. French-run and the food is excellent. (updated Jan 2019)
* 6.13061.24396 ONOMO Hotel Lomé, Boulevard Du Mono, ☏ +228 22536300. Dependable contemporary hotel chain location with buffet breakfast, electronic door locks, pool, allows pets, and, best of all, directly across from the beach. (updated Jul 2020)

### Splurge

* 6.1284721.2148617 Hotel 2 Fevrier, Place de L'indépendence, ☏ +228 22 23 86 00. Luxury hotel and the highest building in the country. (updated Dec 2020)

## Stay safe

The beaches and surrounding areas are known for frequent muggings, especially at night. Don’t wander around on your own at night on the beach unless there are plenty of people around.

## Connect

Lomé has Internet cafés, and they are cheap. You buy access by the hour (around a couple US dollars an hour), but most of the cafés feature very slow computers and Internet connection speeds.
If you are staying in Kodjoviakope you can use your Ghana cell card, it will work perfectly.

## Embassies

* France, Rue de la Marina Quartier Administratif - BP 337. Lomé, ☏ +228 22234640.
* Germany, Boulevard de la République, ☏ +228 22233232. M-F 09:00-12:00
* British Honorary Consulate, Rue de Canaris, Be Château, Lomé, ☏ +228 22222714, fax: +228 274207.
* United States, Boulevard Eyadema, ☏ +228 22615470, fax: +228 2615501. M-Th 07:30-17:00, F 07:30-12:30.
* Egypt, ☏ +228 22262443, fax: +228 2261012.
* 981 Nigeria, 109 Rue des Hydrocarbures, B.P. 1189, ☏ +228 2221 3455, +228 2221 3925, nigeria.lome@foreignaffairs.gov.ng. M-F 08:30-16:00. (updated Sep 2024)