# Richmond (North Yorkshire)

Richmond is a market town in North Yorkshire in northeast England, with a population of just over 50,000 in 2021. It has an attractive old centre and is a good base for visiting the Yorkshire Dales.
Catterick is a village of 2700 population straggling along the historic Great North Road. Now bypassed by A1(M), it's best known for its racecourse.
Catterick Garrison is an army town three miles south of Richmond, with a resident population of 13,000 but a much larger number of troops moving through.

## Understand

The military connections of Richmond go back to Saxon times, when it was in the Wapentake of Gilling. That means a weapon-take or muster of the troops it could raise when called upon - there would be no standing armies for another 600 years. The Domesday Book of 1086 recorded six villagers and two smallholders divided into four ploughing teams, plus one priest, and the whole lot was worth 16 shillings.
The wealth of the area increased in the 17th and 18th centuries from wool and from lead mining, so Richmond became a prosperous Georgian town. It also had the coaching trade, with the Great North Road running nearby through Catterick. The army presence grew in the 19th century and burgeoned during the First World War, with the Green Howards as the local regiment, so a camp was set up three miles south. Irish independence in 1921 meant the British army lost facilities in the Republic, such as the Curragh, and so the temporary camp became the permanent town of Catterick Garrison. It's a normal public town that anyone can visit (the Google Map street-view car does so without drawing fire) with the fenced military base at its west edge. An RAF base was also established at Catterick. This was home to the RAF Regiment, who more resemble soldiers: they don't fly or service the aircraft, but secure airfields that may be in hostile terrain or even behind enemy lines. In 1994 they relocated to Honington near Thetford, and the base transferred to the army and was re-named Marne Barracks.
Visitor information is available in Richmond Market Hall, open daily 10AM-4PM.

## Get in

Newcastle (NCL) is the nearest usable airport. Teeside (MME) is closer but has hardly any flights and its days may be numbered. For long distance flights use Manchester and take the train.
Darlington is the nearest railway station, with frequent trains on the London Kings Cross - York - Newcastle - Edinburgh line.
Arriva Bus X26 / X27 runs from Darlington town hall and railway station, taking 40 min via Scotch Corner and Skeeby, and continuing to Catterick Garrison, Scotton, Kemmel and Colburn. It's every 30 min M-F, hourly Sa Su.
Hodgson's Bus 55 runs three times M-Sa from Northallerton Friarage Hospital and town centre, taking 35 min via Bolton-on-Swale and Brompton-on-Swale.
Hodgson's Bus 159 runs four times M-Sa from Ripon, taking 90 min via Masham, Middleham and Leyburn.
Dalesbus 30 runs year-round up the valley from Richmond to Reeth, Muker and Keld. In summer this extends to Hawes.
Richmond market place is the main bus stop.
By road from the south follow A1(M) to Catterick then A6055. From the north leave A1(M) at Scotch Corner onto A6108. From Glasgow, Carlisle or the Lake District take A66 then B6724.

## Get around

Richmond is best explored on foot, including to Easby Abbey. You need wheels for Middleham Castle and to explore the Dales. Half a dozen parking lots in town, the market place is often full and is unavailable Saturday morning for the weekly market.
Taxi firms are Jet Cars (+44 1748 554433), Amalgamated Taxi (+44 1748 825112), and Tom's (+44 7802 332185).

## See

* 54.403-1.7371 Market Place is the sloping cobbled square in town centre. In the middle is the covered market hall, while the lower open part is called Trinity Church Square.
* Green Howards Regimental Museum, Trinity Church Square DL10 4QN, ☏ +44 1748 826561. Feb-Dec M-Sa 10AM-4:30PM. This is within the former Trinity church. The Green Howards was an infantry regiment raised in 1688 and serving until 2006, when it was merged into the Yorkshire Regiment. The museum depicts its long history and connections to the town. Adult £8, child £5. (updated Feb 2025)
* 54.402-1.73532 Richmond Castle, Tower St DL10 4QW, ☏ +44 1748 822493. Daily 10AM-4PM. Built by the Normans in the 11th century, the castle was never assaulted and fell out of use in the 14th century. From the 1850s it was repaired as a barracks and militia base. From 1908 to 1910 it was the residence of Robert Baden-Powell as commander of the Northern Territorial Army; he later founded the Boy Scout movement. In the First World War, it held conscientious objectors who were set to local work, and imprisoned those who refused this. The "Richmond 16" were even sent to France, court-martialled and sentenced to be shot, but this was commuted. The castle is now maintained by English Heritage. Adult £9, child £5, conc £8, EH free. (updated Feb 2025)
* 54.4005-1.73383 Richmond Falls are at a bend in the River Swale east of the castle. They're a cascade cumulatively of 5 m, impressive when the river is in spate.
* St Mary the Virgin is the Anglican parish church. Parts go back to the 12th century but with many additions and renovations. The church is on Station Road by the river bridge. Trinity in Market Square was a chapel to St Mary's, deconsecrated in the 1960s and now the Regimental Museum.
* 54.4041-1.7364 Richmondshire Museum, Ryders Wynd DL10 4JA, ☏ +44 1748 825611. Apr-Oct daily 10:30AM-4:30PM. Small but jam-packed museum of local history. Adult £7, conc £6, child free. (updated Feb 2025)
* 54.4018-1.74415 Culloden Tower is a "folly", a mock bastion built in 1746 over an existing pele tower to improve milord's view. The Battle of Culloden near Inverness destroyed the Jacobite cause, and "gentlemen in England now abed" hurried to associate themselves with the Hanoverian winners. The tower stood on the parkland of Yorke House, demolished in 1823. You can stroll the riverside park and admire the exterior any time. The interior (with 66 steep stairs) can be rented as a holiday flat from The Landmark Trust.
* 54.3978-1.71696 Easby Abbey. Daily 10AM-6PM. The Abbey of St Agatha was founded in 1152, part of the Premonstratensian order. It was abandoned at the 1530 dissolution of the monasteries and fell into ruin. It's now maintained by English Heritage. You can reach it by a one-mile walk along the riverbank from Richmond, or by road. Free. (updated Feb 2025)
* St Agatha's Church is just east of the abbey and just as old. It has remarkable 13th century frescoes.
* 54.2821-1.80657 Middleham Castle, Castle Hill, Middleham DL8 4QG (13 miles south of Richmond), ☏ +44 1969 623899. Daily 10AM-4PM. This was built in stone from 1190, replacing a wooden castle, and guarded the Ripon-Richmond road. For some years in the 1460s it was the childhood home of the future Richard III (1452-85) - his parents were Yorkists who'd fled abroad as they were losing the War of the Roses. Richard spent little time here during his two year reign; his death at the Battle of Bosworth marked the end of the wars and of the Plantagenet dynasty. His victor Henry VII seized the castle but he and his successors had little use for it and it fell into ruin. The castle masonry was recycled into other buildings but it remains a substantial ruin, now managed by English Heritage. Adult £9, child £5, conc £8, EH free. (updated Feb 2025)
* Kiplin Hall: see Northallerton for this Jacobean mansion east of Catterick.

## Do

* Georgian Theatre Royale on Victoria Rd opened in 1788 and has been restored to its original appearance. It puts on performances and you can take a guided tour March-Oct M-Sa 10AM-4PM, adult £8.
* The Station closed to trains in 1968 and is now a community hub with a cinema, cafe, swimming pool and shops - there's so much here, it will be a tragedy for the town if the railway is ever restored. It's east of the river on A6136.
* Golf: Richmond Yorks GC is northeast edge of town. White tees 5987 yards, par 71, visitor round £28.
    Catterick GC is on Leyburn Rd south side of Catterick Garrison.
* Catterick Racecourse has flat-racing April-Oct and jumps racing Nov-March. It's at Catterick Bridge on A6136 north of Catterick town.
* Adrenalin North Yorkshire is an outdoor activity centre at Blacks Plantation 3 miles north of Richmond. Quad bikes, archery, assault courses and the like.

## Buy

* Lidl is the supermarket in Richmond, off Queens Rd. It's open M-Sa 8AM-10PM, Su 10AM-4PM.
* Catterick Garrison has Tesco and Aldi.

## Eat

* Little Drummer Boy is a bistro at 7 Rosemary Lane off Victoria Rd, open M-Th 5-9PM, F Sa noon-9PM.
    They also have a tearoom round the corner at 14 Finkle St, open daily 9AM-5PM.
* Number 29 Tapas Bar is at 29 Frenchgate, 100 yards north of market square, open Su-Th noon-10PM, F Sa noon-11PM.
* New Treasure Garden serves Szechuan and Cantonese fare at 7 Castle Hill, open W-M 5:30-10:30PM.

## Drink

* Castle Tavern, 3 Market Place DL10 4HU, ☏ +44 7984 601491. Su-Th noon-11PM, F SA noon-midnight. Pleasant trad pub with rooms in the market square, dog-friendly (updated Feb 2025)
* Golden Lion, 43 Market Place DL10 4QL, ☏ +44 1748 518648. Su-Th 11AM-11PM, F Sa 11AM-midnight. Lively central pub. (updated Feb 2025)
* Bishop Blaize is at 40 Market Place next to Golden Lion, open Su-Th noon-11PM, F Sa noon-1AM.
* The Ralph Fitz Randal is a JD Wetherspoon pub at Queens Rd, 200 yards north of market square. It's open Su-Th 8AM-midnight, F Sa 8AM-1AM.
* 54.3977-1.73711 Holly Hill Inn, Holly Hill DL10 4RJ, ☏ +44 1748 822192. Pub with rooms, mixed reviews for the food. Daily 11AM-11PM. (updated Feb 2025)
* Brew Station is a micro-brewery within The Station, open W-Su noon-4PM.
* Yorkshire Dales Distillery makes gin, rum and vodka on Easton Way in Colburn. No tours, the shop is open M-F 9AM-5PM.

## Sleep

* Fleece Hotel, 5 Victoria Rd DL10 4DW (100 yards north of market place), ☏ +44 1748 343313. Re-opened in 2024 with 13 rooms, dogs welcome. B&B double £130. (updated Feb 2025)
* 54.4035-1.73731 Kings Head Hotel, Market Place DL10 4HS, ☏ +44 1748 850220. Large hotel in town centre, part of Coaching Inn Group. B&B double £140. (updated Feb 2025)
* 54.4027-1.73612 Millgate House, 3 Millgate DL10 4JN, ☏ +44 7799 880893. Gorgeous little B&B in a Georgian town house stuffed with artwork, award-winning garden. No TVs in rooms. B&B double £200. (updated Feb 2025)
* Castle House is a charming B&B at 9 Castle Hill, 50 yards south of market square.
* Scotch Corner has a Holiday Inn at the A1 / A66 roundabout, and a Travelodge within the service area just east.
* 54.4565-1.65893 Middleton Lodge, Kneeton Lane, Middleton Tyas DL10 6NJ (one mile north of Scotch Corner), ☏ +44 1325 377977. Upscale hotel in a collection of Georgian buildings, with great dining. B&B double £250. (updated Feb 2025)
* 54.3983-1.71334 Easby Hall, Love Lane, Easby DL10 7EU, ☏ +44 7990 032 660. Upscale B&B in Georgian country house with 3 rooms. Plush fittings and splendid gardens. B&B double £280. (updated Feb 2025)
* 54.3936-1.94585 Cambridge House, Arkengarthdale Rd, Reeth DL11 6QX, ☏ +44 1748 884633. Splendid comfy B&B in a former officers' mess in Swaledale, open Feb to mid-Dec, dog-friendly but no children under 18. B&B double £140. (updated Feb 2025)
* Catterick Garrison has a Premier Inn.

## Connect

As of Feb 2025, Richmond, Catterick and their approach roads have 4G from EE, Three and Vodafone, but a poor signal from O2. 5G has not yet reached these towns.

## Go next

* The Yorkshire Dales start a few miles west.
* Darlington is a large town with shopping and leisure, but for big city amusements head for Newcastle upon Tyne.
* North York Moors arise to the east.
* Ripon is a pleasant market town. The standout is Fountains Abbey a few miles south.