# Istanbul/Western Suburbs

The Western Suburbs are a collection of Istanbul neighbourhoods, lying west of the Old City walls and sprawling across the Thracian (European) peninsula.

## Understand

The Western Suburbs are residential, from rough slums to plush apartments but mostly bland burbs. The Marmara Sea coast has a string of resorts which the city has now engulfed; here and inland is commuter belt. The Black Sea coast has small resorts, lagoons and beaches and is less developed. Inland is rural, scarred here and there by quarries. In 2005 the city boundaries were extended to engulf "Istanbul Province" on both the European and Asian sides, so the "Western Suburbs" and scope of this page now reach 50 km west to the edge of Tekirdağ Province.

## Get in

These suburbs are the main ports of entry into the city, as the major airport, the main bus station (otogar) and (for the time being) the European mainline railway terminus are all here. By car you cross this district on the way to central Istanbul from Gallipoli, Bulgaria or Greece.
Local transport radiates out from city centre, east-west. There are some north-south links near the centre, but not further out. Travelling between this area and Istanbul airport either means doubling back via the centre, or a taxi ride across the peninsula.

### By train

* 41.01836928.7664591 Halkalı Railway Station. The terminus for overnight trains from Bucharest and Sofia. There are regional trains once a day from the border town of Kapikule via Edirne and one from Uzunköprü, also calling at Çatalca and a number of villages across the peninsula. Halkali is also the western terminus of the cross-city Marmaray train (B1). This runs 06:00-23:00 every 15 mins via some three dozen stations, including Sirkeci in the heart of the Old City, under the Bosphorus to Kadıköy, then out east to Pendik (for SAW Airport) and Gebze. B2 is an infrequent northern extension to Bahçeşehir. A few high speed YHT trains from Ankara terminate at Halkalı, though most terminate Asia-side in Söğütlüçeşme. (updated Jul 2023)
* 40.9803128.8725552 Bakırköy railway station (Bakırköy Tren İstasyonu), Gençler Cd. A smaller station, slightly closer to the city centre. High-speed trains and the overnight service between Istanbul and Ankara calls here, as well as services from Konya. The station is connected with M3 metro line. (updated Apr 2024)

### By metro

Metro line M1 (red) runs from Aksaray downtown and runs northwest to Esenler bus station. It then divides: one branch goes west towards Kirazli, connecting with T1 (dark blue) from downtown, M3 (light blue) north to Başakşehir, and M9 (yellow) northwest to the Olympic Complex. The other branch goes south to Zeytinburnu transport interchange via Bakırköy (though the station is 3 km north of that township) and Ataköy. Tramline T1 runs from near Kirazli via Zeytinburnu to Aksaray then Sirkeci in the old city. Light rail line T4 (orange) runs from Topkapı just outside the city walls and serves the suburbs north of those along M1. Metro line M7 (pink) serves further north, and runs from Mecidiyeköy in the business district.

### By bus

* 41.0398728.894133 Esenler Bus Terminal (Esenler Otogar). Buses from Europe, Thrace and Gallipoli terminate here. (updated Jul 2023)
The most useful local bus lines are:
* 71T Taksim-Ataköy (via Aksaray in old city and Bakırköy)
* 72T Taksim-Yeşilköy (via Aksaray in old city and Bakırköy)
* 81 Eminönü-Yeşilköy (via the coast road)
* 94A Beyazıt-Bakırköy
The hybrid bendy Metrobüs runs up the centre strip of the crosstown D100 highway. These run from Beylikdüzü to the west via Zeytinburnu to Mecidiyeköy and then Söğütlüçeşme on the Asian side. Since the Metrobüs runs along its right-of-way, it cuts travel time dramatically, but expect crowds no less denser than some infamously packed Asian public transport systems.
The main dolmuş routes, which run virtually round the clock, are from Taksim to Bakırköy, Ataköy and Yeşilköy.

### By ferry

There are several ferry routes connecting piers along the coast with central and eastern Istanbul.
* 40.972728.87744 Bakırköy pier (Bakırköy İskelesi). (updated Apr 2024)

## See

* 40.9628.8241 Yeşilköy (formerly San Stefano or Ayastefanos) ( Yeşilköy 300 m). A mostly upscale suburb on the coast of the Sea of Marmara, just south of the former airport. It was a multicultural village during the Ottoman period — the legacy of which still lives on in numerous churches of different Christian denominations dotting its streets — and later a seaside resort. Town centre has colourful wooden houses with highly decorative exteriors from the turn of the 20th century, especially around the railway station (itself a historic building) and the main street leading to it (which has many restaurants and cafes.) One mansion was where the Treaty of San Stefano was signed in 1878, ending the war with Russia — the frontline had extended this close to Constantinople. Town's main sights are the Aviation Museum and Istanbul Aquarium (not related to Sea Life). Get here on the Marmaray. Traffic in Yeşilköy is often congested, and parking very hard to find. (updated Jul 2023)
* 41.045628.89632 Sea Life Istanbul (Turkuazoo), Forum İstanbul 3, Kocatepe ( Kocatepe 350 m; inside Forum İstanbul shopping mall), ☏ +90 212 640 2740. Daily 10:00-20:00. Aquarium where you walk through transparent tunnels underwater. It's small compared to Istanbul Aquarium in Yeşilköy, an hour will be plenty, and their combi-tickets with Madame Tussauds (in Beyoğlu) and Legoland indicate their target audience. Online adult 518 TL, walk-up prices higher; discount for domestic visitors. (updated Jul 2023)
* Legoland (Legoland Discovery Centre), Forum İstanbul 54, Kocatepe (within the same shopping mall with Sea Life). Daily 10:00-19:00. Iconic buildings of Istanbul made of Lego bricks. 650 TL; concessions when bought online and for domestic visitors. (updated Nov 2023)
* 41.05727528.7911533 Mehmet Arsay Automobile Museum, Atatürk, 1. İkitelli Cad. No:178, Küçükçekmece. (updated Feb 2025)
* 41.05928.66374 Pelit Chocolate Museum, Koza Mahallesi 1678 Sk. No:19, Esenyurt ( Mehmet Zahit Kotku Camii, 200 m), ☏ +90 212 411 13 00. Daily 10:00-17:00. The Pelit company has made chocolate since 1957. This small museum is dedicated to the history of chocolate in Turkey and also features numerous chocolate sculptures. 250 TL. (updated Jul 2023)
* 40.9597528.8246395 Mor Ephrem Syriac Orthodox Church (İstanbul Mor Efrem Süryani Kadim Ortodoks Kilisesi). Yeşilköy is home to a significant Syriac community. Their church was inaugurated in 2023. It is the first church built since the foundation of the Republic of Turkey. Its architecture is inspired by Syriac churches and monasteries in Mardin Province, the Syriac homeland in southeastern Turkey. (updated Jul 2023)
* 40.96386228.8257656 Aviation Museum (Hava Kuvvetleri Müzesi), Eski Havalimanı Cd, Yeşilköy ( Yeşilköy 250 m), ☏ +90 212 663-24-90, havacilikmuzesi@hho.edu.tr. Tu-Su 09:00-17:00. A military-based museum with various warplanes, helicopters, and weapons used by Turkish Air Force, and also civilian air transport and examples of Turkish aeronautics from Ottoman era onward. 200 TL; discount for domestic visitors. (updated Jul 2023)
* 40.96528.87 Istanbul Akvaryum, Şenlikköy Mh ( Florya Akvaryum 350 m; off the coast highway to Halkalı, 1 km west of Yeşilköy centre). Daily 10:00-20:00. Much bigger aquarium than Sea Life, with over 1,500 species. 3 cafes and large parking lot. Online adult 600 TL, students 550 TL; discount for domestic visitors. (updated Jul 2023)
Two lagoons indent the Marmara coast west of Yeşilköy, the little (Küçükçekmece) and the big lagoon (Büyükçekmece):
* 40.991228.77138 Küçükçekmece (little lagoon). This district lies between the "little lagoon" of that name, and Ataturk airport. It houses the Halkali Railway Station. There are lakeside areas for strolling and cycling, and there is a 16th-century stone arch bridge over the creek that connects the lake to the sea, but you wouldn't make a special trip. (updated Jul 2023)
* 41.022728.58029 Büyükçekmece (big lagoon) (Buses and dolmuşes from Taksim in the city centre run along the modern highway, continuing west towards Silivri. Coastal ferries call at Mimarsinan, the settlement west of the channel.). This lagoon and district has more to offer. There are lots of cafes around the Kültür Park, and restaurants along the banks of the lagoon's outlet channel. There is nothing of note in modern downtown Büyükçekmece. (updated Jul 2023)
** 41.022328.574910 Kültür Park ( Beylikdüzü Sondurak 4.7 km, Üst Geçit 550 m, Büyükçekmece 800 m). The main attraction is this small circular park on the lakefront. Much of its content is modern, including the amphitheatre and sculpture. But behind the amphitheatre are the old baths, and on the park's southeast rim is the caravanserai: Büyükçekmece was traditionally the first overnight stop for caravans trekking west to Europe from Constantinople, or their last stop eastbound. Also known as Kurşunlu Han, the "lead inn" as that's what it was roofed with, it's now a cultural centre: see if there is an exhibition on, and in any case try to peek inside at the architecture supporting the roof. Next to it is Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque, with its kerbside minaret artistically carved out of a single piece of rock, and a large fountain to provide water to the arriving caravans. (updated Jul 2023)
** 41.02180628.57055611 Suleiman the Magnificent Bridge. Stretching west from the park is this impressive 16th-century stone bridge with four humps and 28 arches spanning the channel between lagoon and sea. The bridge is pedestrian only and offers some very nice views, so it's worth walking across the entire (breezy!) span via the three islets to the quiet western end, even though beyond is industrial gap site, with the modern highway roaring to the south. In the park, the pillbox menacing the bridge was part of the "Çakmak Line", the World War II fortifications stretching from here to Terkos which were Istanbul's last line of defence from the west. The pillbox exterior is colourfully decorated but the interior is closed. (updated Jul 2023)

## Do

* 41.07031728.9220991 Vialand, Şehit Metin Kaya Sk, Yeşilpınar ( Veysel Karani Akşemsettin 1 km, shuttle buses depart from the station; by car the easiest access is by taking the Gaziosmanpaşa exit from O-2/E80, and then following the brown signposts, which may be old enough to call the park by its former name, İsfanbul). Daily 11:00-20:00 (Summer: 11:00-21:00). The only theme park of the city has a good selection of rides, including a couple of rollercoasters. US$55, under 3 free, discount for domestic visitors. (updated Jul 2023)
* 41.0264828.6243692 Tüyap Fair Convention and Congress Center, Eski, Cumhuriyet, Hadımköy Yolu Cd 9/1, Büyükçekmece. (updated Feb 2025)
* 41.07400128.7631933 Atatürk Olympic Stadium, Ziya Gökalp No:5, Başakşehir. An olympic venue. Homecourt of the national team. (updated Feb 2025)
* 40.98728828.8884124 Veliefendi Hippodrom, Osmaniye, Ekrem Kurt Blv., Bakırköy. (updated Feb 2025)
* Swimming and beach – In the series of little beach resorts, and middle-of-the-forest beaches with no facilities, along the Black Sea coast west of the Bosphorus. Beware of strong currents when swimming anywhere along this coast. The Marmara coast also has resorts which are much more built up.
* Forest hikes and cycling – The best areas are in Çilingoz Nature Reserve.
** Between Two Seas (İki Deniz Arası). A 60-km, 4-day hiking trail between the coasts of the Marmara and Black Seas across the rapidly changing outskirts of the city, passing through various urban, natural, historic, and industrial sites. (updated Jul 2023)
** The Sultan's Trail. A 2,500-km hiking and cycling trail stretching all the way to Vienna, retracing the campaign of Suleiman the Magnificent onto the Habsburg capital. It is not marked on the ground, but the GPS tracks are available through its website. In the east, it kicks off at the mausoleum of Suleiman in Istanbul's Old City, while to the west the next major town is Saray. (updated Jul 2023)
* Paragliding – the beach north of Ormanlı is relatively popular, with flights launching from the cliffs just above. Mod Extrem offers tandem flights, where you are strapped to an instructor, so you don't need any prior training or experience.
* Birdwatching - Lake Büyükçekmece

## Buy
### Bazaars

* 40.96292328.8125311 Yeşilköy (Green Village) Market. Wednesday. Far less chaotic market in the west with about 2,000 stalls to be explored. (updated Nov 2019)

### Shops

* 40.97444428.8697222 Galleria, Ataköy (on the coast avenue, 15-20 min walk from Bakırköy), ☏ +90 212 559 95 60. The first modern shopping mall of Turkey, opened in the 1980s.
* 41.06324128.8067163 Mall of Istanbul, Ziya Gökalp, Süleyman Demirel Blv No:7, Başakşehir. Biggest shopping mall of the City. Also hosts a Hilton hotel. (updated Feb 2025)
* 41.04640228.8965014 Forum Istanbul, Kocatepe, Bayrampaşa. (updated Feb 2025)
* 40.97805628.8738895 Carousel, Halit Ziya Uşaklığil Cad. 1, Bakırköy (in downtown Bakırköy), ☏ +90 212 570 84 34, fax: +90 212 583 66 76, info@carousel.com.tr. Daily 10:00-22:00. Shopping mall in Bakırköy. Another one called 'Capacity' is next door.
* 41.00992528.6590616 Marmara Park, Çelebi Mehmet Cad. 33A, Esenyurt. (updated Feb 2025)

## Eat
### Budget

Options like döner and çiğ köfte are found mostly inland whilst boiled corn or fish & bread carts are concentrated on the shoreline.

### Mid-range

There is a string of places around the harbour/marina of all the resorts along the Marmara coast. The main concentrations are in Yeşilköy/Bakırköy south of the old airport, Büyükçekmece both sides of the lagoon, and away west to Silivri.

### Splurge

* 40.973628.79391 Beyti, Orman Sk 8, Florya (300 m north of Florya metro station (no trains)), ☏ +90 212 663 29 90, fax: +90 212 663 29 95, beyti@beyti.com. Tu-Su 11:30-23:00. Expensive and a bit of a way out, but its meat dishes draw consistently admiring reviews. 50–150 TL per person. (updated Dec 2018)
* 40.9566128.821292 Yüksel Balık Lokantası, Liman Sk 3, Yeşilköy (Just west of ferry pier), ☏ +90 212 663 97 42. Daily 08:00-00:00. Steep prices but great seafood. They'll advise on what is the best fish for the season and other dishes. US$50 per person. (updated Dec 2018)

## Drink

Cafes are found in virtually any given main street. Though bars and pubs are mostly concentrated on Beylikdüzü and Bakırköy areas.
* 41.0029428.6378671 Beer & More, Anadolu Cd. No:30,, Beylikdüzü. (updated Feb 2025)
* 41.0130128.6445742 Rock'n Rolla, Atatürk Blv., Beylikdüzü. (updated Feb 2025)
* 40.97956228.8542583 Mantar Ataköy, Ataköy 2-5-6, Güney Çarşısı No:47, Bakırköy. (updated Feb 2025)

## Sleep

Hundreds of hotels with various budget options could be found. Cheaper ones tend to be inland. The most popular ones are:
* 40.99393828.7063531 DoubleTree by Hilton Istanbul - Avcilar, Cihangir, D-100 Güney Yan Yolu No:289, Avcılar. (updated Feb 2025)
* 41.05673828.6642572 Sheraton Istanbul Esenyurt, Koza, 1638. Sk. No:4, Esenyurt. (updated Feb 2025)
* Crowne Plaza Istanbul - Florya, Şenlikköy Mahallesi Yeşilköy Halkalı Cad 95, Bakırköy. (updated Feb 2025)
* 40.97550728.8553983 Hyatt Regency Istanbul Ataköy, Ataköy 2-5-6. Kısım, Rauf Orbay Caddesi, Kennedy Cad. No:2/1, Bakırköy. (updated Feb 2025)
* 40.98110528.8974884 Radisson Blu Hotel, Istanbul Ottomare, Ataköy 2-5-6. Kısım, Rauf Orbay Caddesi, Kennedy Cad. No:2/1, Bakırköy. (updated Feb 2025)
* . (updated Feb 2025)

## Stay safe

There are some sections of waterfront park between Bakırköy and old city walls, where you may feel uncomfortable due to the homeless people and inhalant abusers—best avoided at night.

## Go next

* Bus and train terminals for long-distance destinations to the west are all in this district.
* Regional transport runs into Eastern Thrace, notably Saray, Vize, and Kıyıköy on the Black Sea coast.
* Tekirdağ – The provincial capital to the west, a large coastal town noted for its meatballs and rakı.
* Keşan – West of Tekirdağ. Either carry on west to the Greek border, or turn south down the Gallipoli peninsula.
* Edirne – A beautiful city and former Ottoman capital near the Bulgarian border.