# Chandannagar

Chandannagar (Bengali: চন্দননগর Candannagar, French: Chandernagor), formerly Chandernagore, is a small city in the Hooghly district of West Bengal, India. Situated along the banks of the river Hooghly, the city has been able to maintain a separate identity different from all other cities and abide by her own characteristics. The "City of Liberty" has always attracted people from all over the world due to her indescribable beauty. Though the total area is a meagre 19 square kilometers having a population of only over 150 thousand, she has managed to maintain a distinct place not only on the map of India but also on that of the world.

## Understand

Chandannagar (CHAWN-dohn-naw-gohr) for over a period of 300 years has a unique blend of culture and heritage which is unparalleled in history. The city is well connected to Kolkata by railways, roadways and river and it takes about an hour to reach the place. The people of Chandannagar have excelled in all the fields varying from literature and education to culture, sports and arts throughout history. The city hosts many tourist places like Museums, the Strand, Churches, Temples, Rabindra Bhaban, birthplaces of many celebrities and many other spots some of which are not so well known but nevertheless a treat for tourists and historians.

### Name

At first glance, the name "Chandannagar" (চন্দননগর) would seem to be a compound of chandan (চন্দন) and nagar (নগর), where chandan means "sandalwood" and nagar means "city". Local tradition holds that Chandannagar was once the major hub of the trade of sandalwood. Another theory says that the chandan part is actually a corruption of the Bengali word cā$^n$d (চাঁদ), meaning "moon", alluding to the crescent shape of the city's riverbank.

### History

The French combined the villages of Gondalpara, Boro, and Khalisani to form the town of Chandernagore in 1696. The prosperity of the town as a French colony began soon after. In 1730, Joseph François Dupleix was appointed governor of the city, and more than two thousand brick houses were erected in the town during his administration. From Dupleix's time to 1756, Chandernagore was the main centre for European commerce in Bengal, with trades involving opium, indigo, silk, rice, rope, sugar, etc.
In 1756, a war broke out between France and Britain, and the British East India Company bombarded and captured Chandernagore on 23 March 1757. After that, the town's fortifications and many houses were demolished. Its importance as a commercial centre was eclipsed by that of Calcutta (now Kolkata) further downstream, and Chandernagore eventually became a little more than a quiet suburb of the metropolis. Although the town was restored to the French in 1763, it was retaken by the British in 1794 in the Napoleonic Wars. It was again returned to the French in 1816, along with a 3 sq mi (7.8 km$^2$) enclave of surrounding territory. From then on, Chandernagore was governed as part of French India till 1950, under the political control of the governor-general in Pondicherry.
In June 1948, the French government held a plebiscite which found that 97% of Chandernagore's residents wished to become part of India. In May 1950, the French allowed the Indian government to assume control over the city, and Chandernagore became part of the state of West Bengal on 2 October 1954.

### Talk

Most people in Chandannagar can understand English along with their mother tongue Bengali, and most signs in Chandannagar are either in Bengali, English, or bilingual in both languages. As a result of its colonial legacy, French is also spoken and taught in the city, but generally only the senior populations can understand it. Since 1950, when Chandannagar became a part of the Republic of India, English has gradually replaced French as the second language among the younger generations. As a result, even the locals try to anglicise the pronunciations of many French names in the city. For example, the Strand is often pronounced like the English word "strand", instead of the original pronunciation strah$^n$.

## Get in
### By plane

The nearest airport is Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose International Airport (CCU) at Kolkata, which is air linked with all major Indian and international cities. Chandannagar is only 40 km by road from the airport. Please check flight schedules from the airport. If you want to go to the airport from Chandannagar, the best option will be to hire a car. The cab will charge around ₹1000-₹2000 and will take around 1.5 hours- 2 hours depending upon traffic.

### By train

Local trains from Howrah or Bardhaman via main line run very frequently (peak frequency one train every 10 or 12 minutes). Many important express and passenger trains halt here. If you are coming from Kolkata you can catch a local train to Bardhaman (main line), Bandel, Katwa, Memari or Pundooah. Ticket prices for local trains are ₹8 one way. Normally, there is very heavy crowding during morning and evening rush hours.
There are two stations in the city, the main 22.8674788.3544211 Chandannagar Eastern station and the smaller 22.84646288.3463682 Mankundu Eastern station. Express trains and rush hour services generally skip Mankundu, while passenger and local trains stop there.

### By car

Chandannagar is 37 km (23 mi) by road from Kolkata via either the Grand Trunk Road or Old Delhi Road. Taxis and private cars in Kolkata are easily available to approach Chandannagar.

### By boat

The West Bengal Transport Corporation (WBTC) operates river services across the river Hooghly and also between Chandannagar and Kolkata and Belur.

## Get around
### By rickshaw

In the railway station itself, you will find innumerable rickshaw drivers waiting and calling you. Talk to one of them. It should not take more than ₹150/- to visit the entire city, which is an overestimate. Try to bargain as much as you can. In the evening, leave the rickshaw and take a leisurely stroll in the promenade in Chandannagar strand.
You can book an autorickshaw to get around in Chandannagar. There is excellent service by these autorickshaws. You can connect yourself through autorickshaws to both Chandannagar & Mankundu Station from Strand. They are dirt cheap (around ₹6-₹10) and usually you have to travel with a group of people (say 4 or 5 people). Normally, these autorickshaws ply on designated routes, but you can hire them personally to take you to the desired place.

## See

* 22.85848688.3649181 Nandadulal Jiu Temple. Considered to be the finest specimen of Bengal-style docālā (দোচালা, "double-sloped") roof temples. It was built in 1739-40 by Indranarayan Roychoudhury. (updated Feb 2025)
* 22.86231388.3671462 Nritya Gopal Smriti Mandir. Built by Sri Harihar Seth, and donated to the people of Chandannagar. This building still serves as a theatre hall and a library. It was first of its kind in the entire locality. (updated Jul 2019)
* 22.85722288.3680563 The Sacred Heart Church. The Sacred Heart Church of Chandannagar (l'Eglise du Sacré Cœur): The beautiful church stands for over two centuries to mark the beauty of the architecture during the French period - a good place to visit for historians and tourists alike. The remains of the Church of St. Louis are also an attractive tourist spot.
* 22.865588.36814 French Cemetery, GT Rd (opposite Lal Dighi). The French Cemetery contains 150 tombs and is located on the Grand Trunk Road opposite Lal Dighi (a large lake). The eminent persons buried in the French Cemetery in Chandannagar includes Duplessis, the founding father of French Chandannagar and pioneering meteorologist Henry “Storm” Piddington, who also finds mentioned in Amitav Ghosh’s novel The Hungry Tide. (updated Aug 2015)

### The Strand

The Chandannagar Strand, or simply the Strand (French: le Strand), is the French colonial precinct of Chandannagar, along the banks of the river Hooghly. It is a superbly decorated pavement studded with lights surrounded by lush green trees. It is about 700 m (2,300 ft) in length and 7 m (23 ft) in width, and many buildings of historical importance surround the spot. It is a very popular visiting spot for the local people and the tourists would love to stroll along enjoying the mild breeze and watching the small boats sail by. This is supposed to be the best-decorated bank of the river along its entire length.
* 22.85654388.3691945 Dupleix Palace (Institut de Chandernagore). closed Th and Sa. One of the oldest and finest museums in the entire region. It boasts a beautiful collection of French antiques which are difficult to find anywhere else in the world, including the cannons used in the Anglo-French war, wooden furniture of the 18th century etc. The institution still teaches French through regular classes. (updated Feb 2025)
* 22.8570588.369876 Dourgachorone Roquitte Memorial. Locally known as Joṛā Ghāṭ (জোড়া ঘাট, literally "twin ghats"), this memorial is dedicated to Dourgachorone Roquitte (দুর্গাচরণ রক্ষিত Durgācaraṇ Rakṣit), the first Indian to receive the Legion of Honour (French: Legion d'honneur), the highest French order of merit. (updated Feb 2025)
* 22.85416788.3691677 Underground House (পাতাল বাড়ি Pātāl Bāṛi). Another beautiful example of the advancement in the knowledge of architecture and the aesthetic sense of the people of those earlier days. Its lowest floor is submerged in the River Hooghly. Rabindranath Tagore had frequently visited this edifice and appreciated a lot about it. He felt that the place influenced him to a large extent and broadened his intellectual capabilities. He has mentioned this house in many of his famous novels. Social reformer Ishwar Chandra Vidyasagar also stayed in this building before Tagore.
* Vivekananda Mandir. A meditation centre. (updated Feb 2025)

## Do

There is an artificial rock climbing wall near the strand. You need to contact Chandannagar Mountaineering Association to participate there. Chandernagore Municipal Corporation (CMC) operates motor boat trips on the river.
Take a leisurely stroll on the strand in the evening. It's wonderful. The atmosphere is very attractive. In fact, Bengali writer Rabindranath Tagore once wrote "Ananta e akasher kole, tolomolo megher majhar, eikhane bandhiachhi ghor, tor tore kabita amar" (In the vastness of the sky, amidst the trembling clouds, here I have built my adobe, for you, o my verse), while he was in Chandannagar.
Walk in the lanes and by lanes. There are a number of historical architectural wonders from the French colonial period.
Apart from these, there are a number of amusement parks in Chandannagar, which attract millions of picnic lovers during the winter:
* Chhuti, operated by Chandannagar Municipal Corporation which is located near Delhi Road.
* 22.8608488.349381 Wonderland Park, W of Chandannagar Eastern . Operated by the Kolkata Metropolitan Development Authority (KMDA). (updated Feb 2025)

### Festivals

Chandannagar is famous for its Jagaddhatri Puja. It takes place just one month after the Durga Puja, usually in the month of November. The pandals, street lighting, idols - everything will make you spellbound. Millions of people from different parts of the country come here during that period. If you are crowd averse, then it's better for you to avoid Chandannagar during that time. Though the atmosphere then is electrifying, and the whole city buzzes with exuberance. The immersion of idols gets marked with illuminated processions.
Another big crowd puller in Chandannagar is the Christmas celebration. Chandannagar has a very old church in the middle of Barabazar and it is a point of major attraction during Christmas for people of all faiths.
You can also enjoy Chadak Puja on Hospital ground on Laxmigung street and Jyotimore crossing. during Bengali New Year. In Charak puja, groups of men and women, hang from a bamboo stick of 10 or 15-foot height and they are swung in a circular direction. Good art to see!

## Work

* 22.8448288.349671 Human Wave, 103, Tentultala Lane, Mankundu, ☏ +91 26 854904, tapas.sur@gmail.com. NGO that helps children, women and communities in cities around Kolkata. Visit their website for more info on their 2 weeks to 12 months volunteering opportunities.

## Buy

Chandannagar was once called Farashdanga. At that time, the local handloom industry was at its peak. Farashdanga Dhoti saris were famous not only in Bengal, but in other parts of the country also. The industry still exists, though it's getting sicker and sicker every day. You can go to the place called Halderpara, where some of them still exist.
There are innumerable shops where you get whatever you want. From most modern civic amenities to apparels, everything is available. There are a few air conditioned shopping malls also present there. Buy a souvenir from there if you wish.
There is also new air conditioned mall coming up in Laxmigung Bazar. The mall is supposed to house all local and national brands.
The major shopping area in Chandannagar is concentrated in the Bagbazar and Laxmigung Bazar area. During peak seasons, i.e. Durga puja and Jagadhatri puja, streets are jostling with people buying clothes and accessories.

## Eat

Chandannagar is famous for its sweets. Suryakumar Modak, a famous confectioner, apparently invented a new sweet named Jolbhora Sandesh once upon a time. Nowadays, his grandsons operate more than one sweet shops in the city. Don't forget to have a taste of jolbhora. Apart from this, the other sweets and desserts are also very tasty and delicious. Names of few famous sweet shops are listed below:
* Baba Panchanan Mishtanna Bhandar (Panchanantala, Chandannagar) - Famous for its mouth watering lyangcha
* Harigopal Nandi and Sons (Baghbazar, Chandannagar) - Famous for golapi pyanra, diabetic sandesh etc.
* Mrityunjoy Sweets (Sridurga Chhobighar More, Chandannagar) - Famous for Lord Chomchom, Pantua, and Mishti Doi.
* Sumis Enterprise (Boro Champatala, Chandannagar)- An array of ambrosia: Canned Packed Traditional Bengali Sweets: Specially Canned Packed Rosogolla and Gulab Jamun.
* Surya Kumar Modak & Grandsons, Saibal Kumar Modak (Barasat, Chandannagar) - For Jolbhora and other sweets
Apart from these, a few very good restaurants are also available, where you get a wide range of food from Chinese to Indian:
* Abhinandan (laxmigunj Bazar, Chandannagar) - Decent food.
* Restaurant Sundari (Mahuar More, Chandannagar) - One of the oldest restaurants. Though food is not so good.
* Royal Biryiani (Baghbazar, Chandannagar) - Serves good biryiani, though the standard is deteriorating.
* Satyam Garden Restaurant - Set amidst a small garden, and a huge historical building called Nrityagopal Smriti Mandir.
* Shalimar Restaurant & Bar (Burrabazar, Chandannagar) - The architecture is from the colonial period. The food tastes good as well.
Street food in Chandannagar is really awesome. However, it is not always advisable to eat outside food specially from vendors as they maintain poor hygiene standards. Some of the places where you can go to tease your taste buds are:
* Bajrangi Singh's fuchka - A close competitor of Benarasi. Hawks in Fatakgora More.
* Benarasi Singh's fuchka - No one on the earth can produce fuchka better than Benarasi. It's in the strand.
* Bolaida's fish fry - Its near Chandannagar Municipal Corporation in burrabazar. Unparalleled taste, and pocket friendly as well.
* Ganeshda's chowmien - It's in the newly developed food court in Church Road near Chandannagar Strand. Go for the "Chicken mix".
* Laxmida's shop - One of the oldest. The standard has deteriorated drastically. Still, one of the most renowned faces in foody world in the city.
* Rabida's Pakoda - In Burrabazar. Mega sized Chicken Pakoda with spicy chilli sauce. Don't forget to try different chops (all vegetarian) of Raja Phuluri near Hospital ground. Heavenly.

## Drink

Liquor shops are available throughout the city, where you get a vast variety of foreign liquors. Few bars are also in operation. Chandannagar was once famous for its home-made country liquor industry. Its still very much alive on the other side of the railway track (though illegally operated). Prudence says: don't venture. You never know what can happen to you after that. Also one should refrain oneself from drinking in open public places as it is deemed to bad in Indian culture.
* Ganesh Sweets in Laxmigunj Bazar is famous for its lassi. It's a treat to your thirst in the hot and humid days of summer.

## Sleep

There is a scarcity of good hotels in Chandannagar. One has to book well in advance if you plan to visit the city. Few options which are available are:
* 22.858388.36971 Rabindra Bhavan Guest House, ☏ +91 33 26835840. Operated by Chandannagar Municipal Corporation. Located just opposite the strand, its a beautiful place to stay. If it is full, they should be able to help you with the telephone number of the second place. (updated Aug 2015)
* 22.8621188.349632 Wonderland Park Rest House. Set amidst the beautiful garden in an amusement park. Operated by the Kolkata Metropolitan Development Authority (KMDA). (updated Oct 2023)
* Ritzy Manor This is also located in the strand. Its owned by a private house.

## Go next

* Hugli-Chinsurah — a former Portuguese-Dutch colony, known for the Bandel Church, Imambara and several colonial-era buildings
* Serampore — a former Danish colony, known for its association with the Serampore Trio (William Carey, Joshua Marshman and William Ward)