# Baltimore/Inner Harbor

The Inner Harbor is the heart of Baltimore, and the standard-bearer of its industrial and maritime heritage. In the 1950s, the area became an industrial wasteland and the buildings were eventually replaced with parkland for public uses and events. In the decades that followed continued investment in the area has renewed the harbor. It now is home to the lion's share of Baltimore's tourist attractions, and accordingly, its tourists.

## Understand

The Inner Harbor's relatively shallow waters have long played second fiddle to Baltimore's deep water harbors in the south of the city. Unable to accommodate large freighters, the port received light freight and passenger traffic, but even in these categories, the Inner Harbor lagged behind the busier docks at Fell's Point. Consequently, despite its central location, the Inner Harbor always remained underdeveloped, and more than a little seedy.
In the 1960s, particularly after the 1968 riots following the assassination of Martin Luther King Jr that devastated the city, the Inner Harbor sunk into decline with the rest of the city, leaving the waterfront dominated by abandoned warehouses, deteriorating industrial buildings, and open grassy areas for the occasional festival.
In 1980, in what was considered nothing but hopeless folly, Mayor D'Alesandro Jr. came up with an expensive plan to revitalize the Inner Harbor, starting with the construction of the waterfront Harborplace, a big, attractive, indoor mall filled with shops and cafeteria dining. Shortly thereafter the city built the National Aquarium and Maryland Science Center, and lo and behold, the plan was a spectacular success, and the Inner Harbor took off and hasn't looked back.
Today, the Inner Harbor is the city centerpiece, Maryland's number one tourist destination, and the single biggest economic boon for the city. The views across the harbor and its ships towards the old Domino Sugar Factory in the south and the skyscrapers, including the Maryland World Trade Center, in the north are the icons of the city. Restaurants and big hotels line the waterfront, and tourists fill the streets, promenade, and piers. The Inner Harbor is less popular with locals, however, so you would do well to get out a bit to other neighborhoods like Fell's Point and Midtown to get a better feel for the local culture!
The Inner Harbor is one of the 3 sections of downtown that makeup the "Charm'tastic Mile", a 1.3-mile corridor of shops, bars, restaurants and museums that connects Downtown-West, the Inner Harbor & Harbor East. Baltimore was nicknamed "the Charm City" in 1975 by then Mayor William Donald Shaefer. The Charm'tastic Mile was introduced to the city in 2016.

## Get in
### By car

The most direct route to the Inner Harbor area from outside the city would be from I-95. Take exit 53, which dumps you on to Howard St. Parking can be messy and/or expensive, and garages will be the only option available. If you want to park on-street, you could try Fells Point to the east, which will leave you with about a 15- to 20-minute walk to the Aquarium.

### By light rail

Light rail lines stop at Camden Yards, running north through Downtown and Lexington Market, and on to Penn Station; south to BWI airport.

### By Circulator bus

The Circulator has two relevant routes. The orange line$^{[deadlink]}$ will take you east on Pratt almost to the edge of Fells Point, with a quick stop in Little Italy, before returning west on Lombard and running to the University of Maryland, Baltimore. The purple line$^{[deadlink]}$ runs south on Light St to Federal Hill and north on Calvert St to reach Charles St through Mt Vernon and Midtown.

### By water taxi

Baltimore Water Taxi, +1 410-563-3901, stops at the Rusty Scupper, the Science Center, Harbor Place, the Aquarium, Pier 5, and Harbor East, with connections to popular tourist stops in South Baltimore, like Fort McHenry, as wells piers in Fells Point and Canton to the east. Day passes, adults: $20, kids under 12: $11. May–December only.

### By bus

Visitors to the city don't really use the bus system, but if you are feeling intrepid, there are a handful of useful routes.
#11, if you pick it up on Pratt St on the harbor, will take you east to the heart of Fells Point, and then on to Canton. If you take it from Lombard St (one block north of the harbor), it will take you north up Charles St through the heart of Midtown and on to Johns Hopkins' main campus. The northern route returns to the Inner Harbor from Midtown via Cathedral Ave. #1 runs south on Light St through Federal Hill and on to Fort McHenry via Fort Ave.

## See

The Inner Harbor is packed full of attractions, and is Maryland's destination number one for sightseeing. The most popular is without question the National Aquarium, which is almost an obligatory stop, but the ships and the Maritime Museum are a close second. The Maryland Science Center is a fantastic place to spend a half day with children, and the American Visionary Art Museum is an intriguing and unique gallery for anyone with the remotest interest in the arts.
* 39.280278-76.6069441 American Visionary Art Museum, 800 Key Highway, ☏ +1 410-244-1900. W-Su 10AM-5PM. The most eclectic and interesting collection of contemporary art from non-professional artists, with many works of beauty, some of paranoia, and a fair share of sheer obsessive personality disorder! Adults $15.95, discounts available for seniors, children and large groups.
* 39.2844-76.60252 Historic President Street Station, 601 President St (cross street Fleet, east of Pier 6 Concert Pavilion), ☏ +1 410-385-5188. Daily 10AM-4PM. The surviving headhouse of Baltimore’s first railway station. The platforms and train shed no longer survive, but the building narrowly escaped demolition on several occasions, and has been operated by volunteers as a museum since 1997. Formerly the Baltimore Civil War Museum, it still includes some exhibits on the station’s role during the U.S. Civil War. Operated by Friends of the President Street Station, and being considered for inclusion in the National Park System. $3/adult, $2/student, children under 12 free.
* 39.2861-76.61243 Historic Ships in Baltimore (Piers 1, 3, and 5 at the Inner Harbor), ☏ +1 410-396-3453. 10AM-5PM daily, seasonal hours vary. At the piers of Inner Harbor are a collection of four different historic ships from Baltimore's maritime legacy, which have been decommissioned and converted into museums that you can tour on your own. Ticket prices range from $8-16 and are based on how many ships you want to tour (one, two or four), with discounts available for seniors and children. Admission to the lighthouse is always free. (updated Apr 2022)
** 39.2855-76.61124 USS Constellation (Pier 1), ☏ +1 410-539-1797. The last all-sail warship built by the U.S. Navy and the only Civil War-era vessel still afloat. Pay attention to the ship's schedule for the day; Civil War reenactors may be on hand to demonstrate shooting a cannon!
** 39.285-76.60865 USS Torsk (Pier 3). A World War II-era submarine.
** 39.2857-76.60886 Lightship Chesapeake (Pier 3). A floating, mobile lighthouse painted in a vibrant red; it was refitted for combat duty during World War II before returning to lighthouse purposes.
** 39.2858-76.60647 USCGC Taney (Pier 5). A Coast Guard cutter that survived the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor.
** 39.2836-76.60548 Seven Foot Knoll Lighthouse (Pier 5). The oldest surviving screw-pile lighthouse on the Chesapeake Bay.
* 39.2814-76.61199 Maryland Science Center, 601 Light St (south end of Inner Harbor promenade), ☏ +1 410-685-5225. Tu-F 10AM-4PM, Sa Su 10AM-5PM. Great family outing, full of hands-on, interactive science exhibits for kids of all ages. General admission $26.95, discounts available for seniors, children and military.
* 39.2844-76.606910 National Aquarium, 501 E Pratt St, ☏ +1 410-576-3800. M-Th 9AM-5PM, F Sa 9AM-8PM, Su 9AM-6PM, seasonal hours vary. One of the best aquariums in the nation, the Baltimore Aquarium is famous for its tropical rain forest exhibit, its efforts to saving marine mammals, and its large shark tanks. Well worth the price of admission, it's a draw for marine scientists and civilians alike. Due to its popularity, expect to be in long lines to purchase tickets and then have to wait to enter several hours later, especially during weekends or vacation times; to avoid this, plan ahead and purchase tickets early or online. General admission $49.95, discounts for seniors and children available. Half price Fridays after 5PM..
* 39.286017-76.60965811 Top of the World, 401 E Pratt St, ☏ +1 410-837-VIEW (8439). Summer hours: M-Th 10AM-6PM, F Sa 10AM-7PM, Su 11AM-6PM; non-summer hours: W-Su 10AM-6PM; last admission one half hour before closing. An observation deck on the 27th floor of the 31-story "World Trade Center", designed by I.M. Pei the tallest pentagonal building in the world and located directly on the waterfront. It provides amazing views of downtown, the inner harbor and bay, and all of the surrounding neighborhoods. Admission $8, discounts available for seniors, children and military.
* 39.28621-76.6108912 Ice Rink at Baltimore's Inner Harbor, 201 East Pratt St (top of the Amphitheater at the Inner Harbor (between the Harborplace Pavilions)), ☏ +1 443-743-3308. M-Th 3-8PM, F 3-11PM, Sa 11AM-11PM, Su 11AM-8PM. Ice skating rink at the Inner Harbor open during the holidays from mid/late November to early/mid January (check website for exact hours and dates). Adults $9; kids, military, seniors $7; skate rental $4.
* 39.2864-76.612213 Christmas Village in Baltimore, 501 Light St. German-style Christmas market with vendors offering food, holiday gifts, a beer garden and a Santa to take photos with that is open from Thanksgiving Day to Christmas Eve. Free admission on weekdays (admission fee on most weekend days — check website for exact operating hours and prices). (updated Nov 2016)

## Do

* Baltimore Heritage Walk, ☏ +1 443-514-5900. Guided and self-guided three-mile tours departing from the city's Visitor Center, and covering territory through Downtown, and historic Jonestown, Little Italy, and Fells Point. Free guided tours, 1 May-2 November, departing 10AM. (updated May 2017)
* 39.281206-76.5910581 Urban Pirates, S Ann St, ☏ +1 410-327-8378, mail@urbanpirates.com. A swashbuckling adventure on a pirate ship in the Inner Harbor! As you might expect, this is very popular with younger kids.
* 39.288889-76.6063892 Port Discovery Children's Museum, 35 Market Pl, ☏ +1 410-727-8120, info@portdiscovery.org. M-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su noon-5PM. (updated Jun 2019)

### Events

* Baltimore Book Festival. 3-day book festival with over 100 exhibitors/booksellers, author signings, cooking demos and other events and activities held in late September at the Inner Harbor in downtown Baltimore (it used to in Mt Vernon) to celebrate reading. Cancelled for 2023, set to return late September 2024. Free admission. (updated Apr 2024)
* Baltimore Comic-Con, Baltimore Convention Center. Fall weekend, every year. Not quite as big as the Comic-Con held in San Diego, this comic book convention has grown since its humbler beginnings in 2000. It hosts the Harvey Awards presentation ceremony, honoring the best comic book professionals as voted by their peers.
* Light City Baltimore. Annual festival featuring light art installations and free concerts, held in late March/early April. Free admission. Check website for exact dates. Cancelled for 2023. (updated Apr 2017)
* Maryland Deathfest. For those who enjoy a good headbang, this annual metal festival is held at the end of May. Concerts take place at Rams Head Live! and the Baltimore Soundstage.

### Music

* 39.2889-76.60723 Rams Head Live!, 20 Market Pl (in Power Plant Live!), ☏ +1 410-244-1131. Concert venue for rock bands, comedians, and many more. (updated Nov 2020)

### Film

* 39.28349-76.601384 Harbor East Cinemas, 645 S President St. This former Landmark location was (and likely will remain) a nice movie theater with comfy leather seats, good drinks and good food, with no cell phone reception. The theater changed hands and is closed for renovation. (updated Oct 2022)

## Buy

Harborplace offers a ton of shopping right by the main hotels, but outside of the mall, you won't find a lot of shopping here. If you are interested in more local shopping—boutiques, local flavor, etc.—a good bet are the many shops to the east in Fell's Point.
* 39.2858-76.61171 Harborplace, 200 E Pratt St, ☏ +1 410-323-1000. Broken up into two buildings. A third, the gallery on the other side of Pratt Street, has closed. This is a deserted mall in the middle of changing hands. There is a lobster roll joint, an Irish pub, an Cheesecake Factory, an Uno and not much else. One store sells primarily products maid or popularized in Baltimore. (updated Oct 2022)

## Eat

You'll find many chain restaurants in Inner Harbor, ranging from the cheap like Potbelly or Chipotle to the more expensive McCormick & Schmick's or the Capital Grille; American and Canadian tourists will pretty much know what to expect. Don't bother with the food at Power Plant Live! just north of the harbor, as it's overpriced for the quality of food you get. The majority of the really good options will be east of the Aquarium in the burgeoning and uber-yuppie neighborhood of "Harbor East." Further north in the Downtown district, you'll find more local fare at Lexington Market, and one terrific local steakhouse. Going east to Fells Point and Little Italy is without a doubt the best option for dinner if you don't fancy the options here.

### Budget

* 39.28702-76.605281 Miss Shirley's Cafe, 750 E Pratt St, ☏ +1 410-528-5373. M-F 7AM-3PM, Sa Su 7AM-3:30PM. A sunny little diner-esque eatery where you won't have trouble filling up on hearty Southern/Mid-Atlantic breakfasts and lunches. The menu is quite long, so anyone will find something they like. $5-20.
* 39.28842-76.610572 Rosina Gourmet, 300 E Lombard St (inside the office building), ☏ +1 410-244-1885. M-F 7:30AM-3:30PM. Smack dab in the most touristy section of town, this sandwich shop is all-local--geared towards people who work in the area, with really high quality ingredients at low prices. Great cheap, quick breakfast or lunch option. $8-12.

### Mid-range

* 39.27453-76.603233 Little Havana, 1325 Key Hwy, ☏ +1 410-837-9903. M-Th 4PM-2AM, F Sa 11:30AM-2AM, Su 11AM-2AM. This is the place in the Inner Harbor to partake of the Baltimore tradition of bottomless mimosas and bloody marys at Sunday brunch ($17). The nuevo Cubano-style dinner menu (which is new — the older, more boring menu is gone) is intriguing as well, if a bit hit or miss, but this is always a fun place to dine, with great atmosphere and Inner Harbor views. $11-28.

### Splurge

* 39.28255-76.599724 Charleston Restaurant, 1000 Lancaster St, ☏ +1 410-332-7373. M-Sa 5-10PM. An elegant Charleston-style restaurant serving a seafood-heavy menu of Southern fine dining. Dressy, traditional, and impeccable service. Prix fixe menus run from three to eight courses. $30-60.
* 39.28372-76.600085 Chiu's Sushi, 608 S Exeter St, ☏ +1 410-752-9666. M-Th 11AM-3PM, 4:30-10PM; F 11AM-3PM, 4:30-11PM; Sa noon-11PM; Su 3-10PM. This sushi house has stylish atmosphere, high quality sushi by the touristy part of town, and inventive sushi rolls. For a bit of local flavor, look to the crab, lobster, and shrimp roll, which packs in a bit of spicy Maryland Old Bay seasoning! $20-40.
* 39.28695-76.60736 Fogo de Chao, 600 E Pratt St, ☏ +1 410-528-9292. M-F 11:30AM-2PM, 5-10PM, F 5-10:30PM, Sa 4:30-10:30PM, Su 3:30-9PM. The Baltimore location of the national chain of Brazilian Charcuterie restaurants is big, and will serve you copious quantities of high-quality Brazilian meat. The gimmick consists of an all-you-can-eat fixed price dinner, where you raise a flag at your table to invite the server to come bring more meat, and lower it when you want to simply eat in peace. Knowing full well that not everyone in a group is going to want meat, Fogo also has an excellent salad bar at a reduced price. Lunch: $31.50 (salad bar only: $19.50), dinner: $48.50 (salad bar only: $24.50).
* 39.28197-76.607317 Rusty Scupper, 401 Key Hwy, ☏ +1 410-727-3678. M-Th 11:30AM-10PM, F 11:30AM-11PM, Sa 3-11PM, Su 11AM-10PM (Sunday brunch until 2PM). This seafood restaurant is easily one of Baltimore's most high-profile dining establishments, with heavy tourist traffic, and regarded highly for its seafood, but most of all for the magnificent views of the Baltimore skyline—the best views are indeed from this angle. The seafood is very good, but not on the level you will find at other top-notch Baltimore seafood restaurants, be they upscale or on a picnic bench. The service is another step down, occasionally quite bad. But, that's not to say that you shouldn't come here—the seafood is indeed some of the best you will find right on the Inner Harbor, and, again, the views are easily up there with the best in the city. And no one would deny that the Sunday brunch is a great time. $28-50.
* 39.2873-76.611218 Watertable (inside the Renaissance Hotel), ☏ +1 410-685-8439. Daily 6:30AM-11AM, 11:30AM-2PM, 6-10PM. The service and food are both excellent, if not the best in downtown Baltimore, but the clear reason to come is the magnificent view over the Inner Harbor. Great cheap deal on the lunch buffet! $22-40.

## Drink

The Inner Harbor is the worst place in Baltimore for nightlife, barring the barren and dangerous neighborhoods of East and West Baltimore. It's safe here, and within easy striking distance of the big hotels, but the nightlife is almost completely manufactured for tourism, and is accordingly overpriced, plagued by poor service, and won't give you much any idea of what local nightlife is actually about. Nonetheless there are a handful of decent options, and while a tourist trap, Power Plant Live can still be a good time if you know what to expect, and don't mind it being a bit touristy. The one real standout option that does bring in locals from other parts of the city is the wine bar in Harbor East, listed above, Vino Rosina.
If the nightlife here is not to your liking, it is easy enough to go local and leave the Harbor. Just east is Fell's Point, which is arguably the city's party central, absolutely full of bars and locals out for a good time. From the west end of the Inner Harbor, it's a short walk to Federal Hill, with another big concentration of bars.
* 39.28356-76.602381 James Joyce Irish Bar, 616 President St, ☏ +1 410-727-5107. Daily 11AM-2AM. A fairly typical and large Irish pub, but a particularly nice one, and just off the Inner Harbor. The beer list is standard, but the Irish food menu is surprisingly good. Frequent live music.

### Power Plant Live

* 39.289361-76.6068892 Power Plant Live, 34 Market Pl, ☏ +1 410-427-5483. A collection of bars, clubs, music venues, and restaurants (the most notable being the Ruth's Chris Steakhouse), manufactured to keep the Inner Harbor tourist machine rolling! As such, it is not representative of Baltimore culture, is a good deal cheesy (beware the suburban bachelorettes), and has pretty rotten service, but is nonetheless a good time with the right mindset. They have a large self contained outdoor square where you can escape the usual U.S. rules on open containers and drink outside to your heart's content. The outdoor Power Plant stage is host to an unending string of live music performances in the summer.
Watch your dress code here—panicky about Baltimore's more dangerous side spilling into tourist areas, the staff rigidly enforce the general no baggy clothing rules, and even sports apparel can cause problems here and there. Women can wear whatever they want. Men, aim for something preppy/classic.
* 39.28958-76.606823 Angel's Rock Bar, 10 Market Pl, ☏ +1 410-528-1999. Th-Sa 9PM-2:30AM. Don't Stop Believing that the set list will be a little cheesy, but this rock club is regardless one of the better stops within the complex. The clientele is a little skewed towards the male gender, though (because they are sick of the house music at the other clubs). $5-10, free for ladies.
* 39.28955-76.60724 Baltimore Comedy Factory, 6 Market Pl, ☏ +1 410-547-7798. Shows start anywhere between 7PM and 10:15PM. The Comedy Factory transcends its plastic surroundings—it has a 30 year history (at a former location) and is the city's main, and only, comedy venue. Big names are commonplace. $17-22, often with a two-drink minimum.
* 39.2889-76.60725 Ram's Head Live, 20 Market Pl, ☏ +1 410-244-8854. M-Sa 10AM-10:30PM, Su 2 hours prior to doors until 10:30PM. A two-level indoor music venue, which is a nice clean, accessible place to see live music.

## Sleep

Rates are understandably on the high side in the Inner Harbor, and the cheaper rooms at hotels lack harbor views. Prices also vary widely depending on the season and rooms availability. If you find yourself priced out, consider a spot in Fells Point, or even up the light rail in Midtown. While the Downtown hotels are very close, keep in mind that the area is less safe to walk back to at night, and decidedly less family-friendly.

### Mid-range

* 39.2834-76.599981 Courtyard Inner Harbor, 1000 Aliceanna St, ☏ +1 443 923-4000. One block from the waterfront and right between the National Aquarium, Fells Point, and Little Italy. $130-230.
* 39.28395-76.601532 Hilton Garden Inn, 625 S President St, ☏ +1 410-234-0065, fax: +1 410-234-0299. Right by the Courtyard. It's in the extreme east of the district, but that does make it convenient for the same attractions listed for the Courtyard. $150-260.
* 39.283842-76.6014033 Homewood Suites Inn, 625 S President St, ☏ +1 410-234-0999. Pet-friendly, all-suite hotel at the same address as the Hilton. $170-260.
* 39.28516-76.613644 Hyatt Regency, 300 Light St, ☏ +1 410-528-1234, fax: +1 410-685-3362. Some great deals to be had at the big Hyatt, especially if you book far in advance, and even more especially if you forgo the harbor views. $130-200.
* 39.28475-76.605745 Pier 5 Hotel, 711 Eastern Ave, ☏ +1 410-539-2000. Pier 5 Hotel has a fabulous pier location with impressive harbor views (if facing west/southwest), and modern decor. Ruth's Chris Steakhouse on site. $170-280.
* 39.28434-76.61586 Sheraton Inner Harbor, 300 S Charles St, ☏ +1 410-685-3362. Connected to the Convention Center and two blocks west of the Inner Harbor and east of Camden Yards. $130-180.

### Splurge

* 39.28357-76.6037 Marriott Waterfront, 700 Aliceanna St, ☏ +1 410-385-3000. Has the largest meeting room in Baltimore and located in Harbor East. $260-310.
* 39.2873-76.611388 Renaissance Harborplace, 202 East Pratt St, ☏ +1 410-547-1200, fax: +1 410-539-5780. One of the most luxurious big hotels in the city, and about as centrally located as a hotel can get in Baltimore.
* 39.28274-76.613699 Royal Sonesta Harbor Court Baltimore, 550 Light St, ☏ +1 410-234-0550. (updated Jul 2021)

## Go next

* Fort McHenry, in South Baltimore, is the city's most important attraction outside the Inner Harbor, and is not to be missed. The best way to go is to either take a taxi, be it by land or by sea, or for the more intrepid to take Bus #1.
* Little Italy and Fell's Point are just east of the Inner Harbor, and no trip to Baltimore would be complete without a visit to walk the neighborhood's historic harbor and to get a nice dinner at a Maryland seafood house or Italian restaurant.
* Lexington Market is just north of the Inner Harbor Downtown, and is the most efficient way to plunge yourself into the real culture of the city. Ignore people who tell you the market is unsafe (that's nonsense), and start browsing the food stalls and be sure to try some incredible crab cakes or soul food.
* Charles Street and Mount Vernon are north of Downtown in Midtown, an area very often overlooked by visitors, but are great for at least a half day visit to see the Washington Monument, the excellent Walters Art Museum, to see the opera, and to spend an evening at a great restaurant or bar, mixing it up with the locals in one of the coolest parts of the city.