# Hawes

Hawes is a village in North Yorkshire, with Gayle its southwest extension; in 2021 their population was 800. It's in Wensleydale, one of the Yorkshire Dales, and is best known for making Wensleydale cheese. The cheese fell out of fashion and the creamery was almost lost, until boosted by Wallace and Gromit the claymation film comedy - Wallace dotes on the stuff.

## Get in

By road follow A684 west from A1(M) via Bedale and Leyburn.
Bus 156 runs four times M-Sa from Leyburn, taking 55 min via Wensley, West Witton, Aysgarth and Askrigg, and continuing from Hawes to Gayle.
Minibus 113 runs four times M-Sa from Garsdale, on the Leeds-Skipton-Carlisle railway. It takes 20 min via Hardraw and continues to Gayle. On Sundays April-Oct Bus 857 makes the same run, with two continuing east to Bainbridge, Askrigg, Carperby, Redmire and Castle Bolton.
Hawes is on the Pennine Way, see below for the local section.

## Get around

You can reach Hardraw Force and the creamery on foot, though it's sure to rain. You need wheels to venture further.

## See

* 54.3046-2.19231 Dales Countryside Museum, Station Yard DL8 3NT, ☏ +44 1969 666210. Daily Feb-Oct 10AM-5PM, Nov Dec 10AM-4PM. Museum of country life housed in the Victorian railway station, with three coaches in the yard. Adults £5, conc £4.50, child free. (updated Aug 2024)
* 54.3022-2.20082 Wensleydale Creamery, Gayle Lane DL8 3RN, ☏ +44 1969 667664. Daily 10AM-4PM. Wensleydale is a crumbly hard white cheese; it's made at many places in England but "Yorkshire Wensleydale" is a protected name. The tour starts with a demo of cheese-making then you self-guide through the exhibition. There's also Calvert's Restaurant, a coffee shop and gift shop. Adult £6, child £3.50. (updated Aug 2024)
* 54.2999-2.19953 Gayle Mill, Gayle Lane DL8 3RZ, ☏ +44 1969 629348. Th 10AM-4PM. Built as a cotton mill around 1784, and later converted to process flax then wool then a sawmill. Its strangest use was in the Second World War, when Churchill tanks were dunked in the millpond to see how they survived immersion. The mill closed in 1988 but was restored as a visitor attraction. Donation adult £5. (updated Aug 2024)
* 54.2901-2.21024 Aysgill Force is a 40 ft / 12 m waterfall on Gayle Beck draining out of Sleddale. Follow the footpath off Beggarman's Road.
* 54.3198-2.2025 Hardraw Force, Hardraw DL8 3LZ, ☏ +44 1969 667572. Daily 10AM-5PM. Single drop waterfall of 100 ft (30 m) as Hardraw Beck pours over a lip of limestone. The land is owned by Green Dragon Inn, who use visitor fees for upkeep of the area. Adult £4, child £2.50. (updated Aug 2024)
* Virosidum Roman Fort is just an outline in the fields east of Bainbridge. Only if you happen to be passing.
* 54.3178-2.23336 Cotter Force is a cascade of six drops, 10 m in total, reached by a firm gravel path (suitable for wheelchairs and buggies) from A684. It's free to access 24 hours.

## Do

* Hike: use OS Landranger 98 for this area.
* The Pennine Way is a long-distance hiking trail through Hawes. From the south, the route is from Horton-in-Ribblesdale, mostly on farm lanes that are reasonably firm and obvious to navigate. It skirts Cam Fell to come onto the long flank of Dodd Fell. At its north end, the trail short-cuts over the nose of the ridge to descend into Gayle. In the wet or poor viz, stay on the farm lane to come into Hawes. Continuing north, take the public road to Hardraw, pausing to see the waterfall. A farm lane then ascends northwest up the long ridge of Great Shunner, with the scars of old mine workings. The route beyond the lane has flagstones to curb erosion. Great Shunner summit at 716 m (2349 ft) would command views of Wensleydale, Ribblesdale, Swaledale and beyond, if only you'd come on a fine day. Day-trippers now turn back to Hawes while end-to-end hikers descend northeast towards Thwaite and Keld.

## Buy

* Elijah Allen & Son is the general store, open M-Sa 8:30AM-5:30PM in the Market Place.
* Spar convenience store is open M-Sa 8:30AM-6PM, Su 9AM-3PM.
* Market day is every Tuesday. However "Farmers Market" here refers to the auction mart east edge of the village, if you're needing more livestock.
* Fuel: Dalehead Garage is pricy but convenient. It's open M-F 8AM-7PM, Sa Su 10AM-4PM.

## Eat

* White Hart Inn on Main Street is probably the best meal you'll get in Hawes, and it's often booked out. They have rooms, see Sleep.
* The Chippie, Market Place, Hawes DL8 3QX, ☏ +44 1969 667663. Apr-Oct Tu-Sa 11:30AM-2PM, 5-8PM, Su 11:30AM-6PM; Nov-Mar Su Tu 11:30AM-2PM, F Sa 11:30AM-2PM, 5-8PM. Sit-in cafe and takeaway on Market Place. (updated Aug 2024)
* Calvert's is within the creamery, so you can guess the principal ingredient. It's open daily 11AM-4:30PM.
* Cornmill, Newkin, Bainbridge DL8 3EH, ☏ +44 1969 629405. Daily 10AM-4PM. Pleasant coffee shop run by Bake-Well of Askrigg. (updated Aug 2024)
* The Green Dragon is a pub with good food and rooms 100 yards south of Hardraw Force, open daily 11AM-11PM.

## Drink

* Rose & Crown is on Bainbridge Green 100 yards north of Low Mill Guest House. It's adequate for a drink but serves dreadful food.
* Distillery: Wensleydale Spirit Company makes gin, rum and vodka in Leyburn.

## Sleep

* 54.3074-2.18931 Hawes Caravan and Motorhome Club Campsite, Brunt Acres Rd, Hawes DL8 3PS, ☏ +44 1969 667338. Clean well-run site half a mile north of village. Pitch £22. (updated Aug 2024)
* Bainbridge Ings on Old Gayle Lane was a camping and caravan site erected in the national park without planning permission, and the authorities have clamped down. It can no longer take tents or tourers; as of Aug 2024 its lodges are still open but it's unclear if those will be allowed to remain.
* 54.3036-2.19132 Ebor House, 6 Burtersett Rd, Hawes DL8 3NT, ☏ +44 1969 667337. Splendid welcoming B&B east edge of village. B&B double £120. (updated Aug 2024)
* 54.3037-2.19633 Heriot's in Hawes, Main St, Hawes DL8 3QW, ☏ +44 1969 667536. Pleasant welcoming place in village centre. B&B double £120. (updated Aug 2024)
* White Hart Inn, Main St, Hawes DL8 3QL, ☏ +44 1969 667214. Trad 16th century coaching inn, most customers are here for the food. B&B double £150. (updated Aug 2024)
* Laburnum House is a comfy B&B and tea-room on The Holme in village centre.
* Cocketts Hotel on Market Place is shabby and disorganised.
* 54.3036-2.20394 YHA Hawes, Lancaster Terrace, Turfy Hill DL8 3LQ, ☏ +44 845 371 9120. Clean friendly hostel at west end of village. It has camping pitches and private rooms, no dorm. Tent £33, double room £90. (updated Aug 2024)
* 54.3193-2.19895 Simonstone Hall Hotel, Hawes DL8 3EF, ☏ +44 1969 667255. Most guests find it a charming country house retreat, a minority rate it overpriced for what you get. B&B double £220. (updated Aug 2024)
* 54.3078-2.10256 Low Mill Guest House, Bainbridge DL8 3EF, ☏ +44 1969 650553. Just 3 bedrooms in this functioning 18th century watermill, a lovely quirky place. No children under 18. B&B double £140. (updated Aug 2024)
* 54.3119-2.10297 Yorebridge House, Park House, Bainbridge DL8 3EE, ☏ +44 1969 652060. Stylish hotel in a Victorian schoolhouse, for many years the HQ of the Dales Park Authority. Eclectic decor, great service and dining. B&B double £350. (updated Aug 2024)

## Connect

As of August 2024, Hawes and its approach roads have 4G from EE, Three and Vodafone but no signal from O2. 5G has not reached this area.

## Go next

* South east to Grassington, 22 miles through the heart of the Yorkshire Dales National Park
* South to Settle, 22 miles passing the Ribblehead Viaduct and between the Three Peaks.
* West to Kendal, 27 miles, to reach the Lake District.