# New Orleans/Faubourg Marigny

The Faubourg Marigny (FAW-borg MER-ih-nee), commonly just Marigny, is a hip neighborhood just "below" (down river from) the French Quarter.
Best known for the great live music district on Frenchmen Street, the Marigny also offers neighborhood cafes & businesses, historic architecture, and more.

## Understand

It has the air of what the French Quarter was a generation or two ago before there was so much tourist development. It has a few small hotels and many bed-and-breakfasts, as well as a number of good restaurants, coffee shops, and music venues. Part of the city's old high ground, it fortunately escaped the worst of the post-Katrina disaster.

### Orientation

Marigny is down river from the French Quarter, to the north-east by compass. Due to its odd shape (following a bend in the Mississippi River), locals often divide the Marigny into the "Marigny triangle" and the "Marigny rectangle." The triangle runs from Esplanade Avenue (abutting the French Quarter) to Elysian Fields Avenue. The rectangle begins at Elysian Fields and runs to the railroad tracks on Press Street, where the Marigny abuts the Bywater district (the "Ninth Ward").

## Get in
### By foot

Marigny is maybe the most foot friendly neighborhood to explore in the whole city. It's small, compact, and centrally located, and many visitors get to the area by simply walking down river on Royal or Dauphine from the French Quarter. A tip: Bourbon St does not intersect Frenchmen St, and walking to Marigny on Bourbon is a pretty surefire way for an out-of-towner to get turned around.

### By car

Parking is fairly easy, especially if you venture a little further east. The main avenues for getting around are St Claude/Rampart, Elysian Fields, and the Esplanade. Frenchmen St gets backed up during events only.

### By bus

Quite a few New Orleans RTA buses pass by here.
* 55, Elysian Fields: this is the most noticeable route cutting through Marigny, and is also the most useful, as it will take you through the French Quarter along Decatur to Canal and the CBD, or north through the 7th, 8th, and Upper 9th Wards and on to the University of New Orleans in Gentilly.
* 5, Marigny-Bywater: you can theoretically catch this bus on Canal Street at the corner of N. Peters (right in front of the Canal Place tower, across the street from the casino); it goes through the French Quarter on N. Peters/Decatur Streets before taking Elysian Fields back four blocks to Dauphine, and from there follows Dauphine Street through the Marigny and Bywater neighborhoods all the way down to Poland Avenue next to the Industrial Canal. Coming back up the route is the same except the bus follows Royal Street instead of Dauphine.
* 88, St Claude-Delery and 57, Franklin: both routes will pick you up on St Claude and take you down Rampart past the French Quarter to Canal and the CBD. The 88 going eastbound will take you past the Bywater and on to the Lower 9th Ward.
* 91, Jackson-Esplanade: this bus picks up only at the edge of the district, at Rampart & Esplanade, but the route is pretty handy. Going upriver, it goes past the French Quarter, through the heart of the CBD and on to the Garden District in Uptown. Going back along Esplanade, it will go straight through Mid-City.

### By taxi

Taxis are pretty easy to catch in the busy section of Frenchmen St.

## See

Architecturally, the Marigny is known for its many styles of Creole cottages, most of which date to the 19th century. Its "heart" is Washington Square Park (bounded by Frenchmen Street, Royal Street, Dauphine Street, and Elysian Fields Avenue). Frenchmen Street is the main nightlife district, with half a dozen live music clubs and just as many restaurants in four short blocks.
At Mardi Gras, the Marigny is one of the city's hidden hot spots, popular with locals who enjoy partying in the streets without the drunken frat-boy atmosphere of Bourbon Street. Crowds gather at the corner of Royal and Kerlerec (outside the R-Bar), as well as at the intersection of Royal and Franklin. Elaborate costumes are the order of the day, along with brass bands and many drummers. Two weeks before Mardi Gras, the Marigny is also the starting place for the Krewe du Vieux, a satirical, raunchy parade in 19th-century Carnival style, complete with small floats drawn by krewe members and mules.
Known for its bohemian atmosphere and low rents (though the latter is changing), the Marigny is home to many artists and musicians, as well as a sizable gay and lesbian population. Among its notable residents are chef Paul Prudhomme, painter James Michalopoulas, and actors Harry Shearer and Jennifer Coolidge, who can be seen around town when they're not working in L.A. Local writers include New Orleans mystery writers Julie Smith and J.M. Redmann, as well as Andrei Codrescu, Michael Swindle, and Kevin Allman.

## Do

* 29.96873-90.052291 Cafe Istanbul, 2372 St Claude Ave (at St. Roch), ☏ +1 504 975-0286. Named after a legendary Frenchmen Street venue of a generation ago, the new Cafe Istanbul is theater space with a bar in the New Orleans Healing Center, a renovated old warehouse building now a community center. Live theater, music, dance, film, and other performances.

## Buy

* 29.962416-90.0575051 Louisiana Music Factory, 421 Frenchmen St (at Decatur St), ☏ +1 504 586-1094. Daily 11AM-8PM. Specializes in local music, with a wide selection new and used CDs, plus vintage vinyl upstairs. Local musicians often play free sets here for promotion when they come out with a new record. The staff here usually know their stuff and can make good recommendations.
* 29.96271-90.057332 Scott Edwards Photography Studio & Gallery, 2109 Decatur St (at Frenchmen St), ☏ +1 504 610-0581. Tu-Th noon-8PM, F Sa noon-midnight. A gallery specializing in regional and New Orleans based Photography.
* 29.96874-90.052263 Island of Salvation Botanica, 2372 St Claude Ave, Suite 100 (at St Roch St), ☏ +1 504 948-9961, Sis_isochron@yahoo.com. Tu-Sa 10AM-5PM. A real voodoo supply store. Moved from their old ramshackle building in the Bywater into the new "Healing Center" building in 2011.

## Eat
### Budget

* 29.96295-90.057511 13 Monaghan, 517 Frenchmen St (between Chartres and Decatur Sts), ☏ +1 504 942-1345. 11AM-4AM daily. An Irish themed bar and grill, squeezed into an odd warehouse space. Good Irish beers and late-night grub, including Huevos Rancheros and pulled pork sandwich. Vegan options available.
* 29.96428-90.057942 Cafe Rose Nicaud, 634 Frenchmen St (at Royal St), ☏ +1 504 949-3300. 7AM-7PM daily. Coffees, teas, and fresh deli sandwiches, quiches.
* 29.963739-90.0530443 Cake Cafe, 2440 Chartres St (at Spain St), ☏ +1 504 943-0010. 7AM-3PM daily. Great bakery with sandwiches.
* 29.96474-90.051294 Flora Gallery and Coffee Shop, 2600 Royal St (at Franklin Ave), ☏ +1 504 947-8358. 7:30AM-midnight daily. Ultra-funky coffeehouse with light fare, as well as poetry readings, board games, and the like.
* 29.962585-90.0577675 Mona's, 504 Frenchmen St (at Decatur St), ☏ +1 504 949-4115. Su-Th 11AM-9PM, F-Sa 11AM-10PM. Middle Eastern cuisine, with excellent shwarmas, and an extensive vegetarian selection. Other locations around the city.
* 29.96496-90.0526 Schiro's Community Cafe & Bar, 2483 Royal St (at St Roch Ave), ☏ +1 504 944-6666. M-F noon-10PM, Sa-Su 9AM-10PM. Great food, reasonably priced. Great vegan/vegetarian selections, even for breakfast. Small community market attached.
* 29.96687-90.054097 WhoDat Coffee (formerly Hallowed Grounds, formerly Marigny Perks), 2401 Burgundy St (at Mandeville St), ☏ +1 504 872-0360. 7AM-10PM daily. Friendly coffee shop with free wireless internet and easy parking. Gourmet coffee and tea, soup, salad, sandwich and pastry selection, reasonably priced.
* 29.965995-90.0512628 Breakaway's R & B, 2529 Dauphine St, ☏ +1 504-256-0769, paul@breakawaysrb.com. Your Favorite Creole Cookhouse in The Marigny. New Orleans Unofficial Rock & Roll Hall of Fame From the Chef of Green Goddess. The name is inspired by Irma Thomas’ song “Breakaway.” The R&B means restaurant and bar more than rhythm and blues, but the Artigues liked the idea of a reference to local music to help set the tone for their neighborhood place. 13-22USD. (updated Feb 2023)

#### Coffee, snacks & supplies

* 29.96735-90.058259 Alois J. Binder Bakery, 940 Frenchmen St (at N Rampart St), ☏ +1 504 947-1111. Breads and pastries to go.
* 29.96494-90.054310 The Orange Couch, 2339 Royal St (at Mandeville St), ☏ +1 504 267-7327. 7AM-10PM daily. Coffee house with light snacks and ice cream.

### Mid-range

* 29.96386-90.0575911 Adolfo's, 611 Frenchmen St (between Chartres and Royal Sts, upstairs from the Apple Barrel Bar), ☏ +1 504 948-3800. 5:30PM-10:30PM daily. Cozy, slightly quirky yet charming Italian. Let the waiters guide you to the nightly specials.
* 29.96382-90.0516312 Feelings Cafe, 2600 Chartres St (at Franklin Ave), ☏ +1 504 945-2222. The way the French Quarter used to be 50 years ago. Great piano bar, balcony overlooking nice courtyard. Definitely a locals place and great value, but not for the homophobic.
* 29.9644-90.0579413 Marigny Brasserie (formerly Cafe Marigny), 640 Frenchmen St (at Royal St), ☏ +1 504 945-4472. M-Th 11AM-10PM, F-Sa 11AM-11PM, Su 11AM-3PM. Good menu, and a popular wine and martini bar.
* 29.96341-90.0578814 $^{[deadlink]}$ Praline Connection, 542 Frenchmen St (at Chartres St), ☏ +1 504 943-3934. M-Sa 11AM-10PM, Su 11AM-9PM. Much more than pralines (a sweet pecan candy), good Creole soul food at a reasonable price.
* 29.9645-90.059115 Sukho Thai, 1913 Royal St (at Touro St), ☏ +1 504 948-9309. Tu-Su 11:30AM-2:30PM and 5:30PM-10PM. Authentic Thai food in a neighborhood cafe.
* 29.96665-90.0581916 Wasabi, 900 Frenchmen St (at Burgundy St), ☏ +1 504 943-9433. Su-Th 11:30AM-10PM, F-Sa 11:30AM-11:30PM. Excellent sushi and Japanese cuisine. Good selection of sakes.

## Drink

Frenchmen Street is in the Faubourg Marigny neighborhood just below the lower edge of the Quarter. A 4 block stretch of bars, restaurants, and coffee shops mixed with live music venues make it one of the city's most hip places, catering more to locals than tourists (though tourists are certainly welcome, and welcomed).
On any given night, one might find modern jazz, swinging traditional jazz, Latin American style music, rockabilly, and more within this small area. Except for Buffa's, all the below venues are all either on this stretch of Frenchmen Street or just around the corner from it on Esplanade Avenue.
The best way to enjoy Frenchmen (particularly on weekends) is to walk the street with a drink in hand, listening to the music in each club. Many don't have cover charges, but most require at least a one-drink minimum to enter and listen to music. Whenever the music is enjoyable, don't forget to put some cash in the band's tip jar.
* 29.96374-90.057591 Apple Barrel, 609 Frenchmen St, ☏ +1 504 949-9399. Sometimes has live music too. Local characters, low prices, no attitude.
* 29.96853-90.055722 AllWays, 2240 St Claude Ave. Lounge in the front, small theater in the back. The hub of fringe theater, plays, bands, and variety shows often. Very friendly and comfortable for all.
* 29.96379-90.057923 d.b.a., 618 Frenchmen St. New York style bar on Frenchmen, if you need a bit of sophistication when you drink. Great selection of beers, and frequent live music.
* 29.96233-90.057544 Dragon's Den, 435 Esplanade Ave (above Mojitos), ☏ +1 504 949-1750. A charmingly dilapidated, well-hidden club (go down the building's side alley, then up the stairs to your left), with a balcony on Esplanade and an opium-den feel inside. Live music, occasional poetry slams, serves food.
* 29.96382-90.055015 Friendly Bar, 2301 Chartres St (at Marigny St). Gay neighborhood bar where locals gather to hang out in a no-pressure atmosphere.
* 29.96761-90.059386 Iggy's, 1943 N Rampart St (at Touro). Neighborhood bar with a lot of neighborhood characters; very friendly for all. Frequently serves food.
* 29.96638-90.058167 The John, 2040 Burgundy St (at Frenchmen St). Relaxed neighborhood hangout with rockabilly, country, and punk on the jukebox. Named for the gold-painted toilet seats that serve as stools at the tables. With inexpensive stiff drinks served up in Mason jars, this spot for locals offers one of the best deals on Frenchmen St.
* 29.96494-90.051248 Mimi's in the Marigny, 2601 Royal St (at Franklin Ave). The toniest bar in the Marigny (but hardly pretentious), with billiards, Galaga, occasional live music, and tapas served from the restaurant upstairs. Good selection of beers and specialty drinks. Hip Hop and Funk DJs Friday and Saturday nights. Lots of singles on the weekends.
* 29.96748-90.056489 Phoenix, 941 Elysian Fields Ave (at N Rampart St). 24 hours. Gay neighborhood bar by day, catering to the leather crowd at night. Also the official United Cab stand for catching rides back into the French Quarter.
* 29.96407-90.059610 R-Bar, 1431 Royal St (at Kerlerec St). Hip but laid-back hangout that's comfortable by day and happening at night; great jukebox.

### Live music

* 29.96322-90.0578911 Blue Nile, 532 Frenchmen St (between Chartres and Decatur Sts), ☏ +1 504 948-2583. A staple of the Frenchmen Street set of music venues, Blue Nile serves up funk, blues, jazz, and New Orleans-style brass bands. A plus is the big dance floor. Unlike most places in Marigny, though, it often charges a cover, so be sure to sample the music from outside before making the decision to go in.
* 29.96546-90.062612 Buffa's Lounge, 1001 Esplanade (at Burgundy St), ☏ +1 504 949-0038. Small bar room in the front; the big room in the back (also accessible from the side door on Burgundy Street) hosts live music and other events, including a popular jazz brunch on Sundays.
* 29.96224-90.0579813 Checkpoint Charlies, 501 Esplanade Ave (at Decatur St), ☏ +1 504 949-7102. This bar has bands, pool tables and laundry facilities if your clothes need awashin'. Local rock and jump bands.
* 29.96278-90.0578214 The Maison, 508 Frenchmen St (between Decatur and Chartres Sts), ☏ +1 504 371-5543. The place to go for dinner + jazz (pretty energetic jazz), with the largest dining room on the street, and three stages for music.
* 29.96414-90.0579515 Snug Harbor, 626 Frenchmen St (between Royal and Chartres Sts), ☏ +1 504 949-0696. Perhaps the city's foremost modern jazz venue.
* 29.96408-90.0576416 The Spotted Cat Music Club, 623 Frenchmen St (between Royal and Chartres Sts), ☏ +1 504 943-3887. Cozy bar with good hot jazz.

## Sleep

* 29.96776-90.0571 Aaron Ingram Haus, 1012 Elysian Fields Ave, ☏ +1 504 949-3110. One and two bedroom suites six blocks from Bourbon Street.
* 29.96767-90.052762 Auld Sweet Olive Bed and Breakfast, 2460 N Rampart St, ☏ +1 504 947-4332. Historic home with six rooms, each with private bath. Hand painted wall treatments, attractive gardens.
* 29.96396-90.053653 B&W Courtyards, 2425 Chartres St (between Mandeville and Spain Sts), toll-free: +1-800-585-5731. Three 19th century buildings connected by lush courtyards. Private baths. Architectural award winner.
* 29.96598-90.063214 $^{[deadlink]}$ 1870 Banana Courtyard B&B, 1422 N Rampart St (between Esplanade Ave and Kerlerec St), ☏ +1 504 947-4475, toll-free: +1-800-842-4748. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. In 1800s former elite bordello. B&B now. Balcony rooms with a view or budget rooms, each w/different theme. Lagniappe: free soft drinks, bottled water, generous continental breakfast. Tropical courtyard with hammock, verandah with porch swing. Wi-Fi. New fangled stuff, ensuite like: private bathrooms, cable TV, phone, heat and A/C. Gated parking lot. $79-$165.
* 29.96703-90.051695 The Burgundy Bed and Breakfast, 2513 Burgundy St, ☏ +1 504 942-1463, toll-free: +1-800-970-2153. Gay owned and operated, affordable rates.
* 29.96575-90.05896 Chez Nous Guest House, 825 Touro St, ☏ +1 504 432-7072. One and two bedroom private suites.
* 29.96716-90.06197 Chez Palmiers Bed & Breakfast, 1744 N Rampart St, ☏ +1 504 729-8686, toll-free: +1-877-233-9449.
* 29.96566-90.057668 The Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St, ☏ +1 504 949-7327. An outstanding 19th century mansion and a wonderful hostess, Cleo. .
* 29.96603-90.052469 Creole Inn, 2471 Dauphine St, ☏ +1 504 312-2949. A cozy and affordable B&B.
* 29.9639-90.0552610 Crescent City Guest House, 612 Marigny St, ☏ +1 504 944-8722. Check-in: 4PM, check-out: 11AM. 4 Guest rooms each with private bathrooms. All taxes, maid service and continental breakfast included. Free off-street parking and WiFi. $79-$169.
* 29.96691-90.0569411 Elysian Fields Inn, 930 Elysian Fields Ave, ☏ +1 504 948-9420, toll-free: +1-866-948-9420. Hosts, Leigh and Jim are very knowledgeable of the NOLA music scene. Has secure covered parking.
* 29.96211-90.0575112 The Frenchmen Hotel, 417 Frenchmen St, ☏ +1 504 948-2166.
* 29.9656-90.05513 La Dauphine, Residence des Artistes, 2316 Dauphine St. A Bohemian, laid-back, unpretentious, 2 room 1896 guest house for the budget-minded traveler- with a 3-night minimum; private baths, free Internet. Advance reservations required. Ray & Kim are the warm and friendly hosts.
* 29.96435-90.0602514 La Maison Marigny Bed and Breakfast, 1421 Bourbon St. One of Travel & Leisure Magazine's TOP TEN B&Bs.
* 29.96521-90.061515 Maison DuBois Bed and Breakfast, 1419 Dauphine St (between Esplanade Ave and Kerlerec St), toll-free: +1-866-948-1619, fax: +1 504 944-1946. Bed and breakfast.
* 29.96766-90.0577516 Marigny Manor House, 2125 N Rampart St (between Frenchmen St and Elysian Fields Ave), ☏ +1 504 943-7826. Check-in: 4PM, check-out: noon. 1840s Grand Greek Revival home.
* 29.96776-90.0553717 Old Town Inn, 1001 Marigny St (one bright yellow building you shouldn't miss, across the street from the Phoenix and Cowpokes), ☏ +1 504 949-5815. Cool historic inn, three separate buildings, dating from the 1800s.
* 29.96505-90.0530618 Pierre Coulon Guest House, 714 Spain St, ☏ +1 504 943-6692, toll-free: +1-866-328-1497. Comfortable small apartment.
* 29.964-90.0550719 River House, 625 Marigny St, toll-free: +1-866-945-8142. Check-in: 2PM. A lovingly-restored antebellum mansion with three unique apartments, each like no other.
* 29.96469-90.0531320 Royal Street Courtyard Bed & Breakfast, 2438 Royal St, ☏ +1 504 943-6818.
* 29.96405-90.0595821 Royal Street Inn B&B, 1431 Royal St (at Kerlerec St), ☏ +1 504 449-5535. "B&B" here may stand for "Bed and Beverage", as this is upstairs from the R-Bar.
* 29.96305-90.0578822 Suite Jazz, 526 Frenchmen St. Circa 1861, the building has typical high ceilings, chandeliers, hardwood floors, Cable TV, WIFI Internet Access, Central Air, a fully stocked kitchen and more! A queen sleigh bed, travertine tiled shower & original artwork by fabulous artists. Windows have added sound protection. Sylvia is one of New Orleans' best ambassadors and a great concierge/hostess/tour guide.
* 29.96602-90.05423 Sunburst Inn, 819 Mandeville St, ☏ +1 504 947-1799. Historic Victorian house with one and two bedroom suites with private bath. A short walk to French Quarter. Suites has lots of nice ammenties, located in quite charming neighborhood.
* 29.963924-90.05240424 Lions Inn Bed and Breakfast, 2517 Chartres St, ☏ +1 504 945 2339, toll-free: +1 800 485 6846, info@lionsinn.com. Features ten non-smoking guest rooms. Most have private baths while some share a bath. All have twin, king, and queen-sized beds. Among its most appealing features is a garden with swimming pool and Jacuzzi hot tub. (updated Dec 2020)
* 29.964262-90.0549625 River House New Orleans, 625 Marigny St (near Washington Square park), ☏ +1 504 616 0745, info@riverhouseneworleans.com. Check-in: 3:00PM, check-out: 11:00AM. Three-story antebellum guest house with separate apartments on each floor. Amenities include complementary Wi-Fi and a swimming pool. Rates are lower during the summer (June 1-August 31) and higher during special events (Mardi Gras, French Quarter Fest, New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival, Halloween, and New Years Eve). All payments must go through Airbnb or VRBO. A 2-night minimum stay is required. $395/night double occupancy, includes all taxes. (updated Dec 2020)

## Connect

Cafe Rose Nicaud, Marigny Perks, and the Orange Couch listed above all offer coffeeshop style free Wi-Fi.

## Stay safe

Like with many urban neighborhoods, there have been problems with crime in Marigny and in the nearby Bywater neighborhood. The Frenchmen Street corridor with most music venues and restaurants is generally safe. Cabs are plentiful and are always a good idea if you're traveling to areas with less "foot traffic."

## Go next

The lower part of the French Quarter is adjacent to the Faubourg Marigny just upriver. The Bywater serves as the Marigny's downriver neighbor, with a similar vibe but even less visited by out-of-towners. The 7th and 8th Ward neighborhoods begin just back across St. Claude -- while much of this section is still struggling 6 years after the Katrina disaster, it also has some attractive venues and sights just a short distance from Marigny. Drive, bike, or take the bus back on beautiful Esplanade Avenue toward City Park (located in Mid-City New Orleans) where you can visit NOMA museum and the free admission, not-to-be missed, Sculpture Garden; alternatively you can also get there by catching the Riverfront Streetcar just beyond the floodwall at the foot of Esplanade Avenue- this will take you lengthwise through the French Quarter along the Mississippi, then back along Canal Street.