# Chester

Chester (Welsh: Caer) is a very pretty and historic English city on the river Dee, and the county town (capital) of the North-Western county of Cheshire. Although maybe not worth a whole holiday, it's well worth a day or overnight trip to see the Roman ruins and medieval city centre. This fine city is also the gateway to North Wales, as it stands directly on the Anglo-Welsh border.

## Understand

Chester originated in the Romano-British period at the latest, when it formed the settlement known as Deva or Castra Devana, the fortress city of the 20th Legion (Legio XX Valeria Victrix). As a result, some parts of Chester are around two thousand years old. It was a Royalist stronghold during the English Civil War in the 1640s, and along the walls, one can see the tower from which King Charles I watched his troops do battle.
A native of Chester is called a 'Cestrian'. Just as Cockneys must be born within earshot of the Bow Bells to be classed a 'true' Cockney, local tradition dictates that to be strictly deemed a 'Cestrian' the person must have been born within the boundaries of the city's Roman walls. However, the last maternity ward within those defined limits was relocated to its current site a couple of miles outside the city walls in the early 1970s.
* Visit Chester tourist information.

## Get in
### By train

Wikivoyage has a guide to Rail travel in Great Britain
53.1968-2.87981 Chester train station. Is a mile northeast of the centre at the foot of City Road. It has a staffed ticket office and machines, a coffee shop, toilets but no waiting room. There is step-free access via lifts to all platforms. Taxis and buses wait outside: Plusbus tickets are available. (updated Oct 2023)
Chester has trains from:
* London – London Euston hourly by Avanti West Coast, taking 2 hr 30 min via Stafford and Crewe, where you may have to change.
* Liverpool – Liverpool Central every 15 min by Merseyrail, taking 45 min via Birkenhead and the Wirral.
* Manchester – Manchester Airport, Manchester Piccadilly and Manchester Oxford Road every 30 minutes, taking just over an hour via Warrington and Runcorn, and continuing along the Welsh coast to Holyhead (for Dublin ferries). Slower trains trundle from Piccadilly via Stockport, Altrincham, Knutsford and Northwich, and from Leeds via Bradford, Manchester Victoria and Warrington to Chester.
* Birmingham – Birmingham International (for airport) and New Street every two hours via Wolverhampton, Shrewsbury and Wrexham, and continuing along the coast to Holyhead. It's usually quicker to take a train towards Manchester and change at Crewe.
* Cardiff – Cardiff every two hours via Abergavenny, Hereford, Shrewsbury and Wrexham, and continuing to Holyhead.
53.208-2.89142 Bache train station. It is a platform halt in the north of the city, with trains every 15 min on the Liverpool-Wirral-Chester line. You might use it for Countess of Chester Hospital, but it has no lifts and passengers with limited mobility should pre-book assistance. (updated Oct 2023)

### By car

Chester is near the eastern end of the A55, which becomes the M53, which crosses the M56. London is approximately 170 miles by road, Birmingham approximately 90 miles, Manchester approximately 40 miles and Liverpool approximately 15 miles.

### By bus

* National Express coaches run from London Victoria, taking six hours via Heathrow Airport, Oxford, Birmingham Airport and city centre, and Stoke-on-Trent. There's one daytime and one overnight service and they both continue to Liverpool. Megabus doesn't run to Chester.
* Stagecoach Bus 1 / X1 runs from Liverpool every 30 min, taking 1 hr 40 min via Birkenhead, Ellesmere Port and Bache.
* Arriva Bus 84 runs hourly from Crewe via Nantwich. Bus X30 runs hourly from Warrington, taking 90 min via Runcorn.
* Arriva Bus 1 runs every 10 minutes from Wrexham, taking 45 minutes. Bus 11 runs from Rhyl hourly, taking 2 hr 15 min via Prestatyn and Holywell, where you may have to change.
English and Welsh concessionary bus passes are only valid for their own section of the cross-border routes.
53.193949-2.8885123 Chester Bus Interchange. Opened in 2022, has been carefully designed to give no protection from the weather, as the horseshoe of stands is open on both sides so the wind and rain sweep through. The information boards only show departures in the next ten minutes so you don't know when your late-running bus will start or if it's cancelled, and good luck finding any staff assistance. Maybe they're sheltering in the pubs just south across the canal bridge, raising a toast to the architectural consultants. (updated Oct 2023)

## Get around

The city centre is relatively small with everything within walking distance. For areas a little further away, there are good bus services from the bus station on Gorse Stacks on the north side of the city to nearby villages like Blacon and Saltney, as well as more distant towns such as Mold, Wrexham and Liverpool.
Or one can take a taxi.

## See

* 53.19189-2.890461 Cathedral, 12 Abbey Square, ☏ +44 1244 324756, fax: +44 1244 341110. 9AM-5PM. Free, but a donation of £3 is suggested per adult.
* 53.19052-2.881492 Grosvenor Park. The main ornamental park in Chester and includes a pond, miniature railway, open air theatre and children's play area.
* 53.190845-2.8888053 The Eastgate Clock. It is claimed to be the second most photographed clock in the UK. The gatehouse from 1768-9 and the clock dating from 1899. (updated Sep 2016)
* 53.189-2.88564 St John the Baptist's Church, Vicar's Ln, CH1 1SN, ☏ +44 1244 676567. Chester's former cathedral was saved from the reformation under Henry VIII by Queen Elizabeth I. It has Norman masonry dating back to around 1075 AD and an Elizabethan-era ceiling which saved it from destruction after the Reformation. The organ was commissioned and built by William Hill and Company in London and was used for Queen Victoria's coronation before being sent to Chester by barge. (updated Dec 2022)

### Roman Chester

Chester (or Deva in Latin) was one of the great military bases in Roman England, and as such, has its fair share of Roman ruins. Historians have even speculated that had the Roman departure not happened, Chester would have become the Roman Capital of England.
* Walls. The city centre is enclosed by the walls, which offer a pleasant strolling route for visitors and locals alike. Walk around the top of the Roman walls that surround the city.
* 53.189167-2.8869445 Amphitheatre, Vicars Lane, Chester (Adjacent to the Grosvenor Park). Believed to have been the site of the largest wooden structure amphitheatre in the Roman Empire outside of Rome for its time, with a larger stone amphitheatre later built on-top of the foundations
* Roman Gardens. With reconstructed hypocaust.
* Spud u Like, Bridge Street. The basement of this shop gives access to an original hypocaust.
* 53.1843-2.88936 Minerva's Shrine. A shrine in an old quarry carved in the second century (CE), in a quiet park on the banks of the River Dee. (updated May 2024)

## Do

* 53.18849-2.883241 The Groves, riverside (Behind Grosvenor Park). The Groves is Chester's own riverside promenade running alongside the River Dee from the Grosvenor Park to the Old Handbridge (which gave its name to one of the suburbs on the other bank).
** The Groves is one of Chester’s premier open spaces, running along the city bank of the River Dee. It became a promenade in the early 1700s and is now part of a longer Riverside Promenade.
** In 1726, the area was leased to Charles Croughton who secured the river bank and planted an avenue of trees. By the late 18th century it had become known as The Groves. The City Walls also became a fashionable place and during the 18th century, the circuit was modified and the Groves and the walls were connected through the construction of Recorder’s Steps. In Roman times, this section of the riverside was a series of quarries where stone was extracted for building the fortress. In Saxon times, The Groves was probably the main port area and may have had a concentration of leatherworking.
** The Groves is also the best place to go to take a trip down the river itself through all manner of vessels from motorised tour-boats to row boats and, in warm weather, even pedaloes.
* 53.1905-2.881492 Grosvenor Park (via Grosvenor Park Road). Grosvenor Park is a classical, 19th-century designed park with a typical Victorian layout that includes formal avenues lined with trees, large sweeping lawns surrounded with ornamental shrub beds and bedding plants, which provide a colourful display throughout the spring and summer months. The park is located near the River Dee and with views across the river to the meadows and Queen’s Park and out towards the south of Chester.
** Grosvenor Park was one of the first public parks in Britain outside of the big industrial cities and was given to the city of Chester in 1867 by Richard Grosvenor, the Second Marquess of Westminster.
* Boating. Along the river. Rowing boats can be hired, or if you don't want to exert yourself, there are many boat trips that go from the river bank on the city centre side between the Handbridge Suspension bridge and the walls, and they show you everything you will want to see!
* 53.1864-2.899723 Chester Racecourse, ☏ +44 1244 304600, enquiries@chester-races.com. It's on the Roodee, and used to be the site of the Roman port. If you're really keen on horseracing, find out the dates of the 'races days' Chester hosts a few times a year. You may have to book/ will have to book tickets in advance, check with Chester racecourse, and there is quite a range of prices. Chester is a racecourse that holds flat races only, it is a very tight left-hand course. If you just want to see a bit of the race atmosphere for free, the walls walk you right past a view of the action down below. City centre bars are best avoided before and after the races, unless you wish to be very sociable because they are usually full and difficult to get a drink.
* 53.226667-2.8841674 Chester Zoo, Upton-by-Chester, Chester, CH2 1LH, ☏ +44 1244 380280, fax: +44 1244 371273, reception@chesterzoo.org. Well worth a visit, the zoo is absolutely superb and reportedly one of the best in Europe. The elephant collection is world class and it has a unique bat cave where they fly freely around visitors. It's best to leave 3-5 hours to do it properly. It's a little way out of the city centre, so either catch a bus from the bus station, or take the train from Chester Station to Bache on the Wirral Line. The latter option is extremely quick (under five minutes) and correspondingly cheap. £10-12.
* 53.18725-2.892425 Grosvenor Museum, 27 Grosvenor Street, CH1 2DD, ☏ +44 1244 402008. M-Sa 10:30AM-5PM, Su 1-4PM. Small but informative museum majoring on the city's Roman heritage. (updated Jun 2020)
* 53.189193-2.8921466 Dewa Roman Experience, Pierpoint Lane, Bridge Street, CH1 1NL, ☏ +44 1244 343407. M-Sa 9AM-5PM, Su 10AM-5PM. Interactive museum about Chester's Roman history, with hands-on exhibits. If visiting in term time worth waiting until after 3PM to avoid parties of schoolkids.
* 53.18677-2.891877 The Cheshire Military Museum, The Castle, Chester, CH1 2DN, ☏ +44 1244 327617. Daily 10AM-5PM, except for two weeks at Christmas. Museum remembering the county's military past, with archives, a shop and changing exhibitions. Adult £4.. (updated May 2016)
* Open-top Bus Tour. Will get you round all the main tourist sites in 30 minutes. Several bus operators run tours.
* Christmas Lights, city centre. December. Chester is the prettiest city in the run up to Christmas when the streets are tastefully decorated with lights. The shops are hectic but try a walk round the walls after 5PM.
* The Spa Chester (the spa at hoole hall chester), Warrington Rd, CH2 3PD, ☏ +44 1244 408840. A world-class day spa offering an exhilarating sensory journey with an extensive treatment menu. Definitely worth a visit when in Chester, but lots to do so need to set aside enough time to make full use of the facilities.

## Learn

* 53.2002-2.89891 Welsh language course, University of Chester, Parkgate Road, CH1 4BJ, ☏ +44 1244 511168, lsp@chester.ac.uk. Two hours a week, minimum 13 weeks. Learn Welsh in the closest English city to Wales! Part-time evening courses specifically for beginners and improvers, open to all. Part 1 (13 wk) £200, part 2 (15 wk) £240, parts 1+2 £390. (updated Jun 2020)

## Buy

Chester has fantastic shopping for its size. All the major stores are based in one of the most attractive city centres in the country. Traditional black and white Tudor buildings and The Rows (an historic two-tiered shopping gallery, the only one of its kind in the world!) coupled with good shops and great places to eat, such as The Watergates Wine Bar, are sure to make this a pleasant shopping trip.
If that doesn't satisfy your consumerist needs, Cheshire Oaks is a designer outlet 10 miles away by bus or car.
Also, Chester has a traditional indoor Market located behind the town hall.

## Eat

* The Watergates Bar, 13 Watergates Street, ☏ +44 1244 320515. A historic Norman crypt dating from the 11th century on the main cobbled streets just under The Rows. An extensive menu with loads of choices all at a reasonable price.
* Piccolino, 33 Pepper Row, Pepper St, CH1 1EA, ☏ +44 1244 312123, fax: +44 1244 344869, cpiccolino@rbgltd.co.uk. Italian restaurant with a large selection of dishes and good service.
* Siam, City Road. A well-converted canal-side building (above Harkers Arms). Upstairs is a good-quality Thai menu. Downstairs is Teppan-yaki style Japanese food, prepared in front of you with all the performance of juggling utensils, fire etc. Dinner £25-35.
* Pastarazzi, 29 Grosvenor Street. It's in a beautiful old building near the racecourse. Offers fine dining at expensive prices.
* Blackstocks Fish & Chips, 33 Northgate St, CH1 2HQ, ☏ +44 1244 325822. 11:30AM–8PM. Very high-quality fish and chips at a decent price. Delicious northern fare! (updated Apr 2016)
* The Slowboat, 57A Frodsham Street, CH1 3JJ, ☏ +44 1244 317873. Restaurant offering a good selection of various east Asian cuisine dishes. (updated Mar 2021)
* The Forge on Grosvenor Park Rd, opened in 2021, serves modern British grills. They're open M Tu 6-9:30PM, W-Su 12:15-2:45PM, 6-9:30PM.

## Drink

Chester has plenty of historic, old-fashioned English pubs, with beer at around £2.50-3 a pint. However, most places will stop serving at around 11:30PM, and even a little earlier on Sundays. The only true exception being Watergates which trades until 2AM on Fridays and Saturdays.

### Pubs

* 53.19013-2.892351 The Watergates Bar, 13 Watergate Street, CH1 2LB, ☏ +44 1244 320515. A great setting in an old church crypt under The Rows. Generally relaxed by daytime with a stunning rooftop garden with an outside bar. Attracts a lively crowd in the evening with good music and a wide range of cocktails, beers, shooters, spirits and bottles.
* 53.18629-2.889392 The Bear and Billet, Lower Bridge Street. A renovated 17th-century tavern that features a wide selection of beers in convivial surroundings. Decent food.
* 53.19493-2.886043 Ye Olde Cottage Inn, 34-36 Brook St, CH1 3DZ (turn right out of the station, follow Brook St towards City Centre; it's on the left-hand side opposite Spice Balti). Good local pub, serving a selection of beers, wines and spirits. Real log fires in winter and an excellent beer garden at the rear. Traditional English pub, oak beamed and bar, with pool and darts.
* The Falcon, Lower Bridge Street. An old tavern situated at the top of Lower Bridge Street — allegedly haunted in its basement — it serves an excellent range of beer from the Sam Smith's brewery.
* 53.19051-2.887894 The Marlbororough Arms, 3 St John St, CH1 1DA. When it needed its sign painting, the artist stopped to quench his thirst half-way through, and the rest is history. Very close to the city centre, outside it offers a 'husband-creche', where women can deposit their hapless other halves for an afternoon's shopping in peace.
* 53.18819-2.88815 The Albion Inn, Park Street, CH1 1RN, ☏ +44 1244 340345. Defiantly traditional, 'family-hostile' pub with walls covered in First World War memorabilia. Excellent beer and good home cooking.
* Grosvenor Pulford Hotel, Wrexham Rd, Pulford, ☏ +44 1244 570560. Ciro’s Brasserie at the Grosvenor Pulford Hotel & Spa is a magnificent Mediterranean style restaurant offering modern European cuisine and an excellent selection of fine wines from around the world.
* 53.20633-2.854321 Marco Pierre White's Steakhouse, Bar & Grill (MPW Steakhouse Chester), Hoole Hall, Warrington Road, ☏ +44 1244 408830. Set on the outskirts of Chester at the Doubletree by Hilton Hotel, the menu comprises everything you would expect from a traditional Steakhouse with the superior quality you would expect from Marco Pierre White. 2 courses £14.50, 3 courses £18.50.
* 53.19318-2.893156 The Red Lion, 59 Northgate Street, CH1 2HQ. A traditional pub of character, renowned for its eclectic range of real ales and its good quality pub food. (updated May 2016)

### Bars

* Watergates, 13 Watergate Street, ☏ +44 1244 320515. For late night drinks in a superb setting, you have to visit Watergates. An old church crypt under The Rows that is deceptively large with long barrels rooms and a hidden snug. Attracts a lively crowd in the evening with great music and a wide range of cocktails, beers, shooters, spirits and bottles. Open until 2AM on Fridays and Saturdays.
* Amber Lounge.
* Bar Lounge.

### Clubs

There are only a handful of night clubs and late bars to choose from. The latest any club will stay open in Chester is 3AM.
* Telford's Warehouse. One of the best clubs, alongside the canal.
* RB's (Rosie's). Ground floor is a 1990s bar, Babylon. Two more floors playing different music. Good security, lively venue.
* Cruise, 4 St.John’s Street, CH1 1DA, ☏ +44 1244 408000. New club with four bars in six distinct themed areas, specific rooms for different persuasions. Classy and always a good night out.

## Sleep

There are many good hotels in and around the city. Contact the tourist office for details.

### Mid-range

Most B&Bs are clustered to the east of the city in Hoole. This has its own centre, with good local pubs, some restaurants and shops. It's about a mile into the city centre and not a very attractive walk, but is convenient for the train station.
* Express by Holiday Inn Chester Racecourse, The Race Course, ☏ +44 8709 904065, croberts@chester-races.com.
* Mercure Chester North Woodhey House Hotel, Berwick Road, Little Sutton, Cheshire CH66 4PS (M53 junction 5, take 3rd exit towards Queensferry; at second traffic lights at the Esso garage turn right down A550 (Welsh Road); the hotel is approximately 1 mile on your left), ☏ +44 151 339-5121, enquiries@woodheyhouse-hotel-chester.com. From £38 per room. Special 'Real Deal' from £100 per couple for 1 nights 3-course dinner, a bottle of wine and full breakfast.
* Oddfellows, 20 Lower Bridge St CH1 1RS, ☏ +44 1244 345454. Living up to its history, this is an oddball but comfy, stylish hotel in the former meeting place of a society of odd fellows. But no dogs, however Byronically unruly. B&B double £130. (updated Aug 2020)
* The Chester Townhouse, 49-51 Lower Bridge St CH11RS, ☏ +44 1244 567300, reservations@chestertownhouse.com. (updated Mar 2024)

### Splurge

* 53.1907-2.889051 Chester Grosvenor, Eastgate, CH1 1LT, ☏ +44 1244 324024, fax: +44 1244 313246, reservations@chestergrosvenor.com. Grand upscale hotel in town centre, great dining. No dogs. B&B double £160. (updated Aug 2020)
* 53.19601-2.880272 Best Western Queen Hotel, City Road (by Chester railway station), ☏ +44 1244 305000, queenhotel@feathers.uk.com.
* 53.187-2.8883 Edgar House, 22 City Walls, off Duke St CH1 1SB, ☏ +44 1244 347007. Stylish upscale hotel on river bank, the former mansion of a Georgian snuff manufacturer. With 22 Restaurant W-Sa. No children under 14 or dogs. B&B double £160. (updated Jul 2020)
* 53.2295-2.73064 Lloyds Meadow Glamping, Delamere Rd, Mouldsworth CH3 8BD (8 miles east of city), ☏ +44 1928 710740. Lakeside glamping in bell tents, open Apr-Sep, books M-F-M. Double tent £70. (updated May 2022)

## Stay safe

Chester is not an especially dangerous city, with no particular reputation for crime. The general rule is the nearer the racecourse (thus more expensive), the safer the area. However, the usual UK rules apply. Be aware that, between midnight and 3AM or so, especially on Friday and Saturday nights, there will be plenty of drunken people about, so stick to well-lit areas and main roads. If you are one of these people and don't know the city well, consider taking a cab home. Some parts of the city, especially Blacon and The Lache should be strongly avoided if you don't know the area, as they are considered unsafe.

## Connect

As of Oct 2022, Chester and its approach roads have 5G from EE and Three, and 4G from O2 and Vodafone.

## Go next

Wales - the border runs through Chester's western suburbs, and the Wales Coast Path long-distance walk begins in the city centre. Industrial Deeside is first, but head west and Wales gets much better. The Victorian seaside resort of Llandudno and the mountain town of Betws-y-Coed (gateway to Snowdonia National Park) are both around 50 miles (80 km) away.
Liverpool - vibrant and friendly port city, home of the Beatles, the Liver bird and a great skyline.
Manchester - old Cottonopolis is now a cosmopolitan metropolis.