# London/Hampstead

Hampstead is a district of north inner London. The key sights are a wealth of under-stated historical attractions, and the magnificent open spaces of Hampstead Heath. Kenwood House is one of the most accessible of London's great Regency homes, John Keats has a museum devoted to his life and work at his former residence here, and the inspiration for many of John Constable's landscapes is all around you on Hampstead Heath. Combine those with some of the most interesting historical pubs in the whole city, and a vibrant restaurant and cafe scene, and Hampstead really does have much to offer the visitor.

## Understand

Hampstead Village, with its myriad restaurants, old pubs and cafes, is an agreeable place to spend a day or two. The area retains much of its original village character, and Hampstead High St alone houses no fewer than 18 grade II listed buildings. This is one of the wealthiest sections of the city's inner boroughs, full of stately neighbourhoods and grand historic houses. You will also find some interesting, non-mainstream shopping, several repertory theatres and one of the best arthouse cinemas in London.
The nearby vast, open green spaces of Hampstead Heath are a major attraction for Londoners, but relatively few visitors know much about this wonderful remnant of countryside in the centre of London.
Hampstead is a district of great literary, artistic and thespian traditions, and former residents include Kingsley Amis, William Blake, John Constable, Ian Fleming, William Hogarth, John Keats, Anna Pavlova and Alfred Tennyson. Those traditions continue today, and Hampstead is the home of choice for many actors, musicians, writers and media personalities. The residents of Hampstead are acutely aware of the history of the neighbourhood they live in, and any changes in this area are subject to rigorous discussion, and often protest.
Belsize Park is in many ways a southward extension of Hampstead Village, and is made up of many similarly grand residential streets with the odd gem of a restaurant. This is also home to one of the largest and most famous hospitals in London, the Royal Free.
The western reaches of Highgate in the Dartmouth Park area, are inside the Hampstead district, and include the important tourist attraction of Highgate Cemetery, which houses the grave of Karl Marx among other notables.
Primrose Hill is a quiet, stately, residential area in the south of the district bordering Regent's Park. Due to the lack of through roads for traffic, this area seems miles away from the general rush and bustle of London, and forms something of an oasis of calm in what is a very central area.
West Hampstead is less grand, and was traditionally a blue-collar housing neighbourhood. Inevitably though, gentrification from about 1990 onwards changed all that, and the area is now a favoured residential area by young professionals. Aside from some budget accommodation, there is little of interest for the visitor here though.

## Get in
### By tube

The district is served by the following tube stations, in zones 2 or 3:
* Hampstead (Northern Line) – Zones 2+3
* Belsize Park (Northern Line) – Zone 2
* Chalk Farm (Northern Line) – Zone 2
* Golders Green (Northern Line) – Zone 3
* Swiss Cottage (Jubilee Line) – Zone 2
* Finchley Road (Jubilee Line and Metropolitan Line) – Zone 2
* West Hampstead (Jubilee Line and Overground) – Zone 2

### By train

Hampstead is reachable via Thameslink trains and the London Overground.
* 51.5484-0.1931 West Hampstead Thameslink station (Tube and rail: West Hampstead JUB MLD ). West Hampstead is on the main Thameslink Line, allowing easy access from the English Midlands and from Brighton in the south of the country. (updated Jan 2024)
* 51.5408-0.18022 South Hampstead. Is on the London Euston to Watford main line with about 4 trains per hour stopping there. (updated Jan 2024)

#### By London Overground

Three London Overground lines run through the area:
* Mildmay line (formerly North London line (NLL)) – from Richmond DIS to Stratford CEN JUB DLR ELI via Willesden Junction BAK and Highbury & Islington VIC
* Suffragette line (nicknamed the GOBLIN) – from Gospel Oak to Barking DIS H&C via Blackhorse Road VIC
* Lioness line (formerly Watford DC) – from Watford Junction to London Euston NOR VIC
Hampstead Heath and Gospel Oak stations are both convenient stops for visiting Hampstead Heath.
* 51.5553-0.16543 Hampstead Heath. On the London Overground Mildmay line. (updated Jan 2024)
* 51.5552-0.15144 Gospel Oak. On two London Overground lines, the Mildmay line and the western terminus of the Suffragette line. (updated Jan 2024)
Further west in the district, the Overground also stops at Finchley Road & Frognal and West Hampstead which are both on the Mildmay line.
* 51.5499-0.18375 Finchley Road & Frognal. (updated Jan 2024)
* 51.5473-0.19186 West Hampstead railway station. Between Brondesbury and Finchley Road & Frognal. (updated Jan 2024)

### By bus
#### Finchley Road

Finchley Rd is a major bus route through London. Bus numbers 13, 82 and 139 all originate in central London and pass along the length of Finchley Rd, allowing easy access to Swiss Cottage and West Hampstead.
* Bus 13 (North Finchley Bus Station to London Victoria). (updated Jan 2024)
* Bus 89 (Forest Road / Slade Green Station to Lewisham Station). (updated Jan 2024)
* Bus 139 (Golders Green Station to London Waterloo). (updated Jan 2024)

#### Hampstead, Belsize Park and Golders Green

* Bus 46 (London Paddington / Eastbourne Terrace to St Bartholomew's Hospital). Hampstead and Belsize Park are less well served, with the only direct connection from central London being bus number 46, originating at Farringdon St. (updated Jan 2024)
* Bus N5 (Edgware Bus station to Whitehall / Trafalgar Square). Runs approximately every 15 minutes from just after midnight until 6AM. Night bus N5 is an excellent and convenient way to get to Hampstead, Belsize Park and Golders Green, after a night out in the West End. Originating in Trafalgar Square, this service makes its way north through King's Cross and Camden Town, before travelling through the district along Chalk Farm Rd, Haverstock Hill, Hampstead High St and North End Way. (updated Oct 2022)

### By road

The best advice for any visitors wishing to drive into Hampstead is, don't. This is a largely residential area, and there is virtually no on-street parking available. Residents-only parking spaces are guarded very jealously. With the public transport links being very good, there is little need for any visitor to drive into the district.
If you do insist on driving, there is a public car park on the south eastern edge of Hampstead Heath accessed from East Heath Rd, and this is convenient for visiting the heath. The "easiest" (the term must be used relatively as all routes are congested) routes in from central London are:
* A41 north from Marylebone Rd at Baker St. The A41 becomes Finchley Rd in this district.
* A4200 (Eversholt St) north from Euston Station to Camden High St, and then the A502 which runs through the heart of the district as first Chalk Farm Rd, then Haverstock Hill and then Hampstead High St.
Coming from the north, the A41, A502 and A598 all connect to the district from the A406 North Circular Rd, and thus from the M1 motorway.

## Get around

Much of the district, particularly in Hampstead Village and Hampstead Heath, lends itself beautifully to walking.

### By bus

* 268 Bus (Golders Green station to O2 Centre / Sainsbury's). A convenient, regular service that connects Golders Green, Hampstead, Belsize Park, Swiss Cottage and Finchley Rd in both directions. Stops are frequent in key areas such as Heath St, Hampstead High St, Haverstock Hill and Finchley Rd, and are not hard to find. (updated Oct 2022)
* 210 Bus (Finsbury Park station to Brent Cross Shopping Centre). A useful service for getting to Kenwood House, close to Highgate Cemetery and Waterlow Park, and any other area along the extent of Spaniard's Rd and Hampstead Lane. It runs from Golders Green Station south down North End Rd, turns east along Spaniard's Rd, and then runs the whole length of Hampstead Lane before terminating out of the district at Finsbury Park. The return route is identical in reverse. (updated Oct 2022)

## See

Many of the key historical sights are in a cluster within a ten-minute walk of Hampstead tube station and therefore easily covered on foot. If you are planning a full day in the area, a morning visit to Hampstead Heath followed by lunch in Hampstead Village and then an exploration of the historical attractions makes for a good itinerary.
* 51.557499-0.168611 2 Willow Road, 2 Willow Rd, NW3 1TH (tube: Hampstead NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7435-6166, 2willowroad@nationaltrust.org.uk. Th F noon-5PM. A house designed by Erno Goldfinger in 1939 and regarded as an icon of modernist architecture. The contents are just as impressive as the house and include original works by Henry Moore and Max Ernst. Local lore has it that Hampstead resident of the time Ian Fleming objected so strongly to Goldfinger's modernist design that he named his famous Bond villain after him. Adult £7, child £3.50.
* 51.5581-0.1752 Burgh House and Hampstead Museum, New End Sq, NW3 1LT (tube: Hampstead NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7431-0144. W-Su noon-5PM. This beautiful grade I listed Georgian building houses the Hampstead Museum, which has an interesting collection of exhibits on the history of the local area. Free.
* 51.5512-0.18353 Camden Arts Centre, Arkwright Rd, NW3 6DG (tube: Finchley Rd JUB MET ), ☏ +44 20 7472-5500, info@camdenartscentre.org. Tu-Su 10AM-6PM, W 10AM-9PM, closed M and national holidays. A contemporary arts centre with exhibitions focused on exposing new talent. Housed in a lovely Victorian mansion. Free.
* 51.558773-0.1809264 Fenton House, Hampstead Gr, NW3 6SP (tube: Hampstead NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7435-3471, fentonhouse@nationaltrust.org.uk. Sa Su 11AM-5PM. A magnificent old house dating from 1667 that is administered by the National Trust. It is most famous for its globally important collection of early keyboard instruments, and there is also a fine collection of art and porcelain. Frequently hosts recitals. £5.70.
* 51.5483-0.1777785 Freud Museum, 20 Maresfield Gdns, NW3 5SX (tube: Finchley Rd JUB MET or Swiss Cottage JUB ), ☏ +44 20 7435-2002, info@freud.org.uk. W-Su noon-7PM. The former home of Sigmund Freud. A wide range of exhibits, most famously including the psycho-analytic couch that all of his patients used. Freud was an avid collector of antiquities and there is a fine collection of Greek, Roman and Oriental pieces on show. £6.
* 51.5553-0.1812086 Hampstead Parish Church (Parish Church of St John-at-Hampstead), Church Row, NW3 6UU (tube: Hampstead NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7794-5808, vestry@hampsteadparishchurch.org.uk. The church building is rather lovely but it is the graveyard that will most interest visitors. Notable personalities buried here include Sir John Constable (artist), Hugh Gaitskell (Labour Party leader and Chancellor of the Exchequer), Kay Kendall (actress) and several members of the du Maurier family. Tomb trails are available at the church. Visiting should be OK in daylight hours, but check ahead if you are making a special trip.
* 51.567-0.1477 Highgate Cemetery, Swain's Ln, N6 6JP (20 minutes from Archway NOR tube station: turn left and walk up Highgate Hill until you get to St Joseph’s Church (with large green copper dome). Enter Waterlow Park on your left and go downhill across the park to the Swain's Lane exit (below the tennis courts). Bus from Golder's Green NOR station: take bus 210 and tell the driver that you wish to be dropped as close as possible to Highgate Cemetery), ☏ +44 20 8340-1834, info@highgate-cemetery.org. East Cemetery: M-F 10AM-dusk, West Cemetery: only via guided tours 1 Mar-30 Nov M-F 2PM, 1 Nov-28 Feb Sa Su hourly 11AM-3PM, 1 Mar-31 Oct Sa Su hourly 11AM-4PM. Take a guided tour of the overgrown Western Cemetery which gives it a special beauty and charm, or visit the East Cemetery unaccompanied where you will find the grave of Karl Marx. There are at least 850 notable people buried at Highgate, from authors Douglas Adams and George Eliot, to Jean Simmons and Michael Faraday; high society Victorians wouldn't be seen dead anywhere else. It has been said that Highgate has the finest collection of Victorian funerary architecture in the country, and the cemetery certainly has more than its fair share of ghosts. There's even a resident vampire! East Cemetery £4, West Cemetery tour and East admission £12. (updated Aug 2015)
* 51.5555-0.1679478 Keats House, Keats Gr, NW3 2RR (tube: Hampstead NOR ; rail: Hampstead Heath MLD ), ☏ +44 20 7332-3868, keatshouse@cityoflondon.gov.uk. W-Su 11AM-5PM. The poet John Keats lived here from 1818 to 1820 until he travelled to Rome where he died of tuberculosis, aged just 25. The house was restored in 2009 as a museum with period decor, furnishings and a collection of Keatsiana. Some events take place in the building next door within the grounds (Ten Keats Grove); the building also houses a volunteer-run public library, with a collection of books and periodicals, and free internet access. £6.50. (updated Feb 2017)
* 51.5396-0.16089 Primrose Hill, off Regent's Park Rd, NW1 (tube: Chalk Farm NOR ). A large open grassed hill just to the north of Regent's Park. Offers a free panorama of Central London. The views are probably only bettered by those from Parliament Hill on Hampstead Heath.
* 51.569-0.14510 Waterlow Park, Swain's Ln N6, ☏ +44 20 7974-8810. A secret jewel of a park. Beautifully landscaped grounds, hills, mature trees, lakes, a walled garden, visitor's centre, café, tennis courts, and children's playgrounds. Bequeathed to the public as a "garden for the gardenless" by Sir Sidney Waterlow in 1889. A visit here combines very well with Highgate Cemetery.

### Hampstead Heath

Totalling 320 hectares this is the largest green space in the inner districts of London.
Hampstead Heath, or just the Heath as locals call it, is not a park and has a very different character to the highly manicured Royal Parks in central London. This is a remnant of the great Middlesex Wood that has somehow survived as common land as the metropolis grew around it, and in that sense, it is very unique. Its proximity to, and ease of access from, densely populated urban areas of London, have ensured that Hampstead Heath has a special place in the hearts of Londoners.
The heath has much to offer to the visitor, but is generally not that well known as being a tourist attraction. If you are in the city and simply want some fresh air and calm natural surroundings, there is no better choice than jumping on the tube and coming for an early morning walk here. Both Hampstead and Belsize Park tube stations are about 10-minute walk from the heath. The North London Line rail station Hampstead Heath is right on the southwestern tip of the heath.
Hampstead Heath is administered by the City of London Corporation, and it is worth visiting their website, where there are useful trail maps and other visitor information.

#### Cultural inspirations

Like so many other iconic landscapes, Hampstead Heath has inspired a great many works of art from all disciplines, with some of the more notable being:
* John Constable painted numerous landscapes both from sitting on the upper level of his house at the nearby Well Walk, and from on the heath itself. As you take in the splendid vistas over the heath, it is not difficult to see how Constable was so inspired here.
* John Keats composed his great Ode to a Nightingale whilst sitting at the Spaniard's Inn and hearing the sound of a nightingale on the heath. The nightingales have sadly gone, but the heath still has a very healthy wild bird population.
* CS Lewis was inspired to write The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe whilst wandering Hampstead Heath on a snowy winter's day.
* In contemporary literature, Hampstead Heath is the setting for the village of Ham in Will Self's superb The Book of Dave.
* The cult movie Scenes of a Sexual Nature was shot entirely on Hampstead Heath.

#### Orientation

Hampstead Heath is a large space, and visitors may find it useful to compartmentalise the different sections.
* The main part of Hampstead Heath is bounded by Spaniards Rd and Hampstead Lane to the north, Highgate Rd to the east, the North London railway line to the south, and East Heath Rd and Spaniards Rd (again) to the east. A line of ponds runs along each side of the heath here: Highgate Ponds on the eastern side, Hampstead Ponds on the western side. The northern part of this section is occupied by Kenwood House, looked after by English Heritage and the only part of the heath not administered by the City of London Corporation. Parliament Hill forms the southern part of this section.
* West Heath is across Spaniards Rd and North End Rd from the main section, and includes Golder's Hill Park, The Pergola and The Hill Garden, as well as large tracts of mature oak, hornbeam and birch woodland.
* Sandy Heath is northwest of Spaniard's Rd and consists mostly of beautiful, mature oak woodland.
* The Hampstead Heath Extension is north of Sandy Heath bordering suburban Golders Green, and consists mostly of sports pitches. Older locals still call this area the "gunsite" as it was exactly that during World War II, and was not cleared until the 1960s.

#### Specific attractions on Hampstead Heath

* 51.563-0.15711 The Bathing Ponds. 2 May-30 Sep 7AM-6:30PM, 31 Sep-30 Apr 7AM-noon. There are three notable outdoor bathing ponds on the heath. The Men's Pond and Women's Pond are both part of the line of small lakes on the eastern edge of the heath known as Highgate Ponds, and the Mixed Pond is part of Hampstead Ponds on the opposite side. Swimming hours are seasonal, complicated, age-dependent and change frequently, so it is worth checking before making a special trip. £2. (updated Aug 2015)
* 51.567-0.18912 Golders Hill Park, North End Way, NW3 (tube: Golders Green NOR , then bus 210 or 268 to the entrance). 7:30AM to just before dusk (seasonal). A more formal tended area of the heath at its north-western extremity. Has as a small aviary and zoo that kids always enjoy. Free.
* 51.5653-0.183613 The Hill Garden and Pergola, N End Way, NW3 (tube: Golders Green NOR , then bus 210 or 268 to the entrance of adjacent Golder's Hill Pk). 7:30AM to just before dusk (seasonal). A quite beautiful hidden garden on West Heath, which is little known even to many Londoners. It was originally part of the gardens of 19th-century Inverforth House built by Viscount Leverhulme (the then owner of Lever Brothers, now Unilever). The gardens are now common land and part of Hampstead Heath, and the most impressive feature is a restored timber pergola, covered with various climbing plants including roses, honeysuckle, clematis, wisteria and various vines. The pergola offers two stunning views from its north-western point. You can look straight out and over the heath's canopy and see nothing but mature trees. Alternatively, you can look down and see the beautifully manicured herb garden and the length of the pergola stretching out before you. The adjacent Hill Garden offers a complete contrast to the wildness of the pergola. The garden is beautifully manicured and is a favourite haunt for artists. The bench by the ornamental fish pond here gives a stunning view of Hampstead Heath with the towers of urban London as the backdrop. Free.
* 51.570146-0.1665814 Kenwood House, Hampstead Ln, NW3 7JR (tube: Golders Green NOR , then bus 210 which stops right outside), ☏ +44 20 8348-1286. House 11:30AM-4PM daily, grounds 10AM-5PM daily. A splendid Regency house with enormous gardens and woodlands. The gardens alone are worth the visit and are a superb example of 18th-century landscaping. On show at the house is art by masters such as Rembrandt, Turner, Reynolds and Vermeer, and the gardens have a very notable sculpture by Henry Moore. A regular program of outdoor opera takes place here every summer. Movie buffs will recognise Kenwood from Mansfield Park among other famous films. Administered by English Heritage, separately from the rest of Hampstead Heath. Free; a donation of £3 suggested.
* 51.559722-0.15972215 Parliament Hill (southern side of the Heath between Hampstead and Highgate Ponds). This is a high part of the Heath with clear open vistas, and the views looking south over the city are quite wonderful. Highly recommended on a clear morning, when you can see from Canary Wharf in the east all the way to Battersea Power Station in the west.

## Do

Given its reputation as a centre of the arts, it is no surprise that Hampstead is home to three of London's better known repertory theatres and a truly top-class arthouse cinema. Evenings here certainly focus around those performing arts activities. One-off performances (sometimes at unusual venues) are also far from uncommon, so check local listings. A good place to look is the local weekly newspaper, the Hampstead and Highgate Express.
* 51.5565-0.17911 Everyman Cinema, 5 Hollybush Vale, NW3 6TX (tube: Hampstead NOR ), ☏ +44 870 066 4777. One of London's most notable art house cinemas which offers a high quality experience. You pay for it, but the environment is very classy indeed. Has a sister cinema just down the hill in Belsize Park - The Everyman Belsize Park. from £13. (updated Aug 2015)
* 51.544-0.17362 Hampstead Theatre, Eton Ave, NW3 3EU (tube: Swiss Cottage JUB ), ☏ +44 20 7722-9301, boxoffice@hampsteadtheatre.com. A repertory theatre that is about as far removed from glitzy west end productions as you could imagine. Dedicated to exposing new writing talent. Harold Pinter gained some of his earliest experience here. £15-20.
* 51.5559-0.17853 Pentameters Theatre, 28 Heath St, NW3 6TE (tube: Hampstead NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7435-3648. Small, intimate theatre known for edgy, high quality productions. Located above The Horseshoe pub. £10-12.

## Buy

Hampstead Village has long been known as a home of off-beat, independent shops. Sadly, that is less the case today than previously as spiralling rents have forced many independent retailers out of the area. Some do remain though, and the keen shopper will be rewarded by exploring the small lanes that lead off the main streets here.
Hampstead High St, Heath St, Rosslyn Hill and Haverstock Hill have a number of mid and upper market boutiques including Nicole Farhi, Gap, Karen Millen, Nine West, Kurt Geiger and Molton Brown.
The usual suspects among British high street retailers are well represented in the Finchley Rd and Swiss Cottage area.
* 51.5506-0.16541 Daunt Books, 193 Haverstock Hill, NW3 4QL (tube: Belsize Park NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7794-4006, belsizepark@dauntbooks.co.uk. M-Sa 9AM-9PM, Su 11AM-9PM. A wonderful, old-style independent book shop which has a second branch up the hill at 51 South End Rd.
* 51.5596-0.15172 Farmer's Market, Parliament Hill Fields (between the tennis courts and the school yard at the base of Parliament Hill), ☏ +44 20 7833-0338. Sa 10AM-2PM. A regular farmer's market selling fresh organic produce every Saturday
* 51.5555-0.17843 Hampstead Antiques Emporium, 12 Heath St, NW3 6TE, ☏ +44 20 7794-3297. Tu-Sa 10:30AM-5PM, Su 11:30AM-5:30PM. More than 30 antique dealers permanently occupy this small arcade and adjacent courtyard. Several genres represented including furniture, paintings, toys and textiles.
* 51.5556-0.17674 Hampstead Community Centre, 78 Hampstead High St, NW3 1RE (tube: Hampstead NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7794-8313. Sa 9AM-6PM. On Saturdays, turns into a mini-market selling a variety of things, including a second hand book stall with a fantastic selection.
* 51.5564-0.17795 Keith Fawkes Books, 1–3 Flask Walk, NW3 1HJ (tube: Hampstead NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7435-0614. M-F 10AM-5:30PM, Su noon-6PM. A rare and antiquarian bookshop with a special focus on the great literary characters who lived in Hampstead. Also carries a huge stock of more run-of-the-mill secondhand titles. An absolute must for booklovers.
* 51.547089-0.1916996 The Village Haberdashery, Hardy Building, West Hampstead Square, 6, Heritage Ln, NW6 2BR (tube: West Hampstead JUB MLD , above M&S), ☏ +44 20 7624-5494. M-Sa 10AM-4PM, Su noon-4PM. An independent haberdashery. (updated Aug 2020)

## Eat

Hampstead Village and Belsize Park are well known for a wide selection of quality restaurants and cafes. The local resident population here is notably demanding, so any places that make it long term will be serving good food and providing good service. The daytime sees a cafe culture perhaps as strong as anywhere in London, and in the evening, restaurants attract visitors fom all over London, as well as neighbourhood locals.
Elsewhere in the district, Primrose Hill has its own eating sub-culture centre around some chic outlets on Gloucester Avenue, and London's oldest vegetarian restaurant nearby. The West Hampstead and Swiss Cottage area has some good local restaurants.

### Budget

* 51.5557-0.17691 La Creperie de Hampstead, 77 Hampstead High St, NW3 1RE (tube: Hampstead NOR ). Noon-10PM daily. A crepe stall in front of the King William IV pub. A wide variety of tasty sweet and savoury crepes for under a fiver. Queues can get long at the weekends. Been around a long time and passes the longevity test.
* 51.5573-0.17842 Jin Kichi, 73 Heath St, NW3 6UG (tube: Hampstead NOR , turn right, on the other side of Heath St), ☏ +44 20 7794-6158. 12:30-11PM daily. Really good value, no frills sushi restaurant. Set lunch from £8.
* 51.554-0.19653 Nautilus, 27-29 Fortune Green Rd, NW6 1DT (tube: West Hampstead JUB MLD ), ☏ +44 20 7435-2532. M-Sa 11:30AM-2:30PM, 5-11PM. A very well known fish and chip shop. The great British invention to either take away or eat in. Locals travel a long way to buy here.
* 51.5594-0.15274 Parliament Hill Café (off Highgate Rd between the tennis courts/bowling green and the bandstand), ☏ +44 20 7485-6606. 9AM to between 4 and 9PM depending on the season. The only cafe actually on Hampstead Heath, and a nice place to stop for a drink or quick bite after exploring the heath.

### Mid-range

* 51.5554-0.17455 Caffe Nero, 1 Hampstead High St, NW3 1UN (tube: Hampstead NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7431-5958, info@caffenero.com. M-F 7:30AM-6:30PM, Sa 7:30AM-7PM, Su 8AM-7PM. Modern coffee shop chain just around the corner from Hampstead tube station. Serves decent coffee with cakes and savoury snacks at slightly lower prices than elsewhere in Hampstead Village. Part of a large chain.
* 51.5548-0.17226 Carluccio's, 32 Rosslyn Hill, NW3 1NH (tube: Hampstead NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7794-2184, hampstead@carluccios.com. M-F 8AM-11PM, Sa 9AM-11PM, Su 9AM-10:30PM. Serves cheap and decent, if not terribly inspired, Italian food. Good value for this area. Also has a deli attached. Part of a large chain. £12-20.
* 51.544837-0.1915967 Bohemia House (formerly Czechoslovak), 74 West End Ln, West Hampstead, NW6 2LX (tube: West Hampstead JUB MLD ), ☏ +44 20 7372-1193. M: Closed, Tu-F: 5PM-10:30PM, Sa: noon-10:30PM, Su: noon-10PM. Serves traditional Czech-Slovak dishes such as svíčková (beef steak in a creamy sauce) and guláš (goulash) with knedlíky (boiled bread dumplings) at reasonable prices, also has plenty of memorabilia on display particularly from World War II. (updated May 2022)
* 51.5569-0.16898 Freemason's Arms, 32 Downshire Hill, NW3 1NT (tube: Hampstead NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7433-6811. Noon-9PM daily (bars later). A gastro pub offering both homely dishes and some more ambitious options. Good location only one minute walk from Hampstead Heath. Has a large open garden with many tables which is lovely in the summer. £25.
* 51.5389-0.19049 Little Bay Kilburn, 228 Belsize Rd, NW6 4BT (rail: Kilburn High Rd LIO ), ☏ +44 20 7372-4699, kilburn@littlebay.co.uk. M-Sa noon-midnight, Su noon-11PM. European cuisine. Three-course meal £11-16.
* 51.5419-0.157510 Manna, 4 Erskine Rd, NW3 3AJ (tube: Chalk Farm NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7722-8028, info@mannav.com. M–Sa 6:30-11PM, Su noon-3PM. The UK's oldest vegetarian restaurant which has been in operation since 1966. That says a lot about the quality of the food, and the presentation and service are also top notch. £40.
* 51.5553-0.166511 Mimmo la Bufala, 45a S End Rd, NW3 2QB (tube: Belsize Park NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7435-7814, info@mimmolabufala.co.uk. M-F noon-3PM and 6-11PM, Sa Su noon-11PM. Italian bistro with an extensive menu of pizzas and grill items. £15-20.

### Splurge

* 51.5407-0.157312 Odette's, 130 Regent's Park Rd, NW1 8XL (tube: Chalk Farm NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7586-8569, info@odettesprimrosehill.com. Tu-Sa noon-2:30PM, 6:30-10:30PM, Su noon-3PM, 6-10:30PM. Modern European cooking in the Primrose Hill district. Interesting set degustation menu for £60 per head.

## Drink

Historic pubs are widespread in this district and visitors will have few problems finding a good quality, rewarding option. A vintage of 200 years is by no means unusual for such establishments and many have colourful stories to tell.
This is not a district with any regular after hours nightlife, but it is not far down the hill to the neighbouring areas of Camden Town and King's Cross where there are many late bar and dance club options.

### Hampstead Village and around

Among Hampstead's many pubs are a few traditional jewels, including:
* 51.5566-0.1771941 The Flask, 14 Flask Walk, NW3 1HE (tube: Hampstead NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7435-4580, flask@youngs.co.uk. Bar hours: M-Sa noon-11PM, Su noon-10:30PM. The name dates from the 18th and 19th centuries, when Hampstead was known as an area with many freshwater springs and people went there to take the waters. The current building has been a pub since 1874. Two bar rooms and a separate dining area.
* 51.557879-0.179362 The Holly Bush, 22 Holly Mount, NW3 6SG (tube: Hampstead NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7435-2892, info@hollybushpub.com. Bar hours: M-Sa noon-11PM, Su noon-10:30PM. It has been around since 1807 and is an absolute traditional favourite. Two bar rooms with open fireplaces. Consistently rated as one of the best traditional pubs in the whole of London.
* 51.5557-0.17683 The King William IV, 77 Hampstead High St, NW3 1RE (tube: Hampstead NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7435-5747, info@kingwilliamhampstead.co.uk. Bar hours: M-Th 11AM-11PM, F-Su 11AM-midnight. London's oldest established gay pub and a pleasant place for a drink whether you are gay or straight. Three bar rooms and a pleasant, if small, outdoor beer garden at the rear. Right in the heart of Hampstead village.
* 51.567542-0.1825824 The Old Bull and Bush, N End Rd, NW3 7HE (tube: Golders Green NOR ), ☏ +44 20 8905-5456, info@thebullandbush.co.uk. Bar hours daily 11AM-11PM. This former farmhouse gained its first licence to sell liquor in 1721 and is the pub that gave rise to famous Victorian music hall song "Down at The Old Bull and Bush". Today it is a thriving pub and one which has modernised sympathetically. A great place to go for a drink and imagine the characters who have done likewise here over the past nearly 300 years.
* 51.569856-0.1741065 The Spaniard's Inn, Spaniard's Rd, NW3 7JJ (tube: Golders Green NOR , then bus 210 which stops right outside), ☏ +44 20 8731-8406, feedback@thespaniardshampstead.co.uk. Bar 11AM-11PM daily. Been around since 1585 and has just claims to be one of the most famous pubs in London. Keats, Shelly and Byron all drank here and Dickens mentions it in Pickwick Papers. Local lore has it that Dick Turpin used the pub and that his ghost still does. These days it is a decent pub with a real countryside atmosphere.

### Elsewhere

* 51.55886-0.148636 The Bull and Last, 168 Highgate Rd, Highgate, London NW5 1QS. (updated Mar 2021)
* 51.5414-0.15347 The Lansdowne, 90 Gloucester Ave, NW1 8HX (tube: Chalk Farm NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7483-0409, info@thelansdownepub.co.uk. Bar M-F noon-11PM, Sa 9AM-11PM, Su 9AM-10:30PM. Local favourite with a lively bar downstairs and excellent restaurant on the first floor.
* 51.5425-0.15498 The Pembroke Castle, 150 Gloucester Ave, NW1 8JA (tube: Chalk Farm NOR and walk across the bridge), ☏ +44 20 7483-2927. Bar M-Sa noon-11PM, Su noon-10:30PM. Intimate pub with a cozy inside bar and a very popular beer garden which gets packed in summer.
* 51.5404-0.15419 The Princess of Wales, 22 Chalcot Rd, NW1 8LL (tube: Chalk Farm NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7722-0354. Bar M-Sa 11AM-11PM, Su 11AM-10:30PM. Traditional pub which offers a fine selection of beers and has a relatively broad food menu. Traditional jazz is played on Thursday nights. One of the more reasonably priced pubs in the area.
* 51.54685-0.158910 The Sir Richard Steele, 97 Haverstock Hill, NW3 4RL (tube: Belsize Park NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7483-1261, info@sirrichardsteele.com. Bar M-Sa 11AM-11PM, Su noon-10:30PM. Old fashioned London pub which runs a regular program of themed nights including some quite eclectic musical themes. Saturday is comedy night and especially popular. Named after the notable Georgian journalist and writer whose home was on this site.
* 51.55607-0.1462311 Southampton Arms, 139 Highgate Rd, Kentish Town, London NW5 1LE, ☏ +44 7375 755 539. (updated Mar 2021)
* 51.54274-0.1745912 Ye Olde Swiss Cottage, 98 Finchley Rd, London NW3 5EL (tube: Swiss Cottage NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7722-3487. Swiss chalet-style pub that gave its name to the tube station. (updated Mar 2021)

## Sleep

This is not a district well known for its accommodation options and few visitors stay here. The hotels that are available tend to be in the south of the district, although Hampstead Village itself does have a couple of good quality bed and breakfast options which are very much off the regular tourist path. In West Hampstead, there is a small cluster of budget bed and breakfast options.
* 51.5488-0.19231 Charlotte Guest House, 195-197 Sumatra Rd, NW6 1PF (tube: West Hampstead JUB MLD ), ☏ +44 20 7794-6476, info@charlotteguesthouse.co.uk. Traditional B&B with 43 rooms ranging from singles to family suites. The cheapest rooms do not have private bathrooms. From £50.
* 51.5442-0.18652 Dawson House, 72 Canfield Gdns, NW6 3EG (tube: West Hampstead JUB MLD ), ☏ +44 20 7624-0079, booking@dawsonhousehotel.com. Budget guest house with 15 rooms including family options. A five-minute walk to the West Hampstead stations. From £59.
* 51.5485-0.17153 Dillons, 21 Belsize Pk, NW3 4DU (tube: Belsize Park NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7794-3360, desk@dillonshotel.com. Bed and breakfast in a converted Victorian building in Belsize Park. Quiet and reserved residential neighbourhood but easy access to Hampstead Village. From £65.
* 51.5593-0.17854 La Gaffe, 107-111 Heath St, NW3 6SS (tube: Hampstead NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7435-8965, info@lagaffe.co.uk. Charming boutique bed and breakfast accommodation above a restaurant and wine bar of the same name. Family owned and managed. From £85.
* 51.5505-0.18015 Langorf Hotel and Apartments, 20 Frognal, NW3 6AG (tube: Finchley Road MET JUB ), ☏ +44 20 7794-4483, info@langorfhotel.com. Converted townhouse within walking distance of Hampstead Village. From £75.
* 51.5457-0.17656 Palmer's Lodge Hostel, 40 College Cres, NW3 5LB (tube: Swiss Cottage JUB ), ☏ +44 20 7483-8470, reception@palmerslodge.co.uk. A high-quality hostel in a converted Victorian mansion. Has private rooms and a number of dorm options. Offers free WiFi, breakfast included in the price and nice touches such as serving fair trade coffee only. Dorm beds from £21, double private rooms £77.
* 51.5445-0.17267 Swiss Cottage Hotel (Best Western), 4 Adamson Rd, NW3 3HP (tube: Swiss Cottage JUB ), ☏ +44 20 7722-2281, reservations@swisscottagehotel.co.uk. Converted Victorian townhouse with 59 rooms. Two-minute walk to Swiss Cottage tube station. From £56.

## Connect
### Internet outlets

* Belsize Library, Antrim Rd, NW3 4XN (tube: Belsize Park NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7974-6518. Tu W 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, closed M Th F Su. A small public library run by Camden Council which offers free public internet access. The queues are often long though.
* Queen's Internet Cafe, 191 Queen's Cres, NW5 4DS (tube: Belsize Park NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7485-1558. M-Sa 10AM-6PM. A rather quirky place which doubles as an internet cafe and a supplier of hair grooming products! Very friendly and a reliable, fast connection.
* Swiss Cottage Library, 88 Avenue Rd, NW3 3HA (tube: Swiss Cottage JUB ), ☏ +44 20 7974-6522. M-F 10AM-8PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-4PM. A public library run by Camden Council which offers free Wi-Fi and a limited number of desktop stations.

## Stay safe

This is a comparatively safe district of London, it is also rather upper-class populated. You are however still in the city, so be sensible, especially after dark. If you do run into any difficulties, the nearest police station is:
* 51.54959-0.142131 Kentish Town Police Station, 10-12A Holmes Road, NW5 3AE, ☏ 101. 24 hours.

## Cope

* Hampstead and Highgate Express (The Ham and High), 100A Avenue Rd, NW3 3HF, ☏ +44 20 7433-0000, editorial@hamhigh.co.uk. Very few London districts have their own proper local newspaper (as opposed to a free sheet), but it is no surprise that literary Hampstead does. A great source of local news, events and listings. Published each Thursday, and widely available at newsagents and other outlets throughout the district.
* 51.5532-0.16592 Royal Free Hospital, 23 E Heath Rd, NW3 1DU (tube: Belsize Park NOR ), ☏ +44 20 7794-0500. One of London's largest and most famous hospitals. Has a full A&E department.

## Go next

* Camden Town with its wonderfully eclectic markets and shops, is just a couple of stops south on the Northern Line.
* From the south of the district, you can easily walk to Oxford Street and elsewhere in the West End, through the lovely Regent's Park.