# Chicago/Near North

The Near North is the shop-and-awe center of Chicago. It's bounded by North Avenue to the north, the Chicago River to the west and south, and Lake Michigan to the east.
With a whirlwind rush of department stores, restaurants, and luxurious hotels, there's no better place to abuse your budget than the Near North and its celebrated Magnificent Mile.

## Understand

The Near North includes the neighborhoods of River North, full of art galleries, commercial lofts, and some tourist restaurants, nightclubs and bars; Streeterville and the Gold Coast, with expensive living for rich folks and many of the city's most impressive hotels; and the most prestigious shopping district in Chicago, the Magnificent Mile on Michigan Avenue, which includes one of Chicago's most beloved landmarks, the Water Tower.
This area has been a part of Chicago from the beginning, when Fort Dearborn was built on the other side of the river in 1803 (and burned to the ground nine years later, establishing an unfortunate civic trend). But since the early 1920s, when bridges were built to draw shoppers away from State Street in the Loop, there has been too much to sell, too much awe to inspire, and not a minute to spare. That's why the Near North can be such a delight at a tourist's pace. The locals are in a hurry, but if you're not, the serene image of the old Water Tower or the resolutely quiet riverwalk can take on the feel of a private discovery, even with all of these people around.
That's not to say you can't have fun getting caught up in the hustle and bustle, of course. The sheer amount of shopping on Michigan Avenue cannot be overstated. The world's most elite fashion designers are represented here, and the rest wish they were. River North has many of the city's busiest (if not best) clubs, with a dense row on Rush Street. In the Near North, you'll find a few significant members of the Chicago skyline, including the John Hancock Center and Lake Point Tower, which stands alone to the east at the end of a new, steel-and-glass future-scape in south Streeterville; it makes for an impressive view from Lake Shore Drive, and serves as an entryway to one of the city's most popular tourist spots, Navy Pier, a great place for entertaining children and catching the breeze from Lake Michigan with an evening stroll or a turn on the 150-foot tall Ferris Wheel.

## Get in
### By train

The CTA Red Line has stops near the entertainment in River North (Clark/Division) and the Magnificent Mile (Chicago, Grand).
The CTA Brown Line and Purple Line stop in the midst of the River North galleries (Chicago), and the Merchandise Mart has the next stop all to itself.

### By bus

An intricate web of CTA bus lines serves the Near North, most converging upon the northern end of Michigan Avenue. Several express buses from other parts of the city serve Michigan Avenue, notably the 147 Outer Drive Express from the north side and 3 King Drive Express from the south side. Once you're here, though, you will find it better to cover the Magnificent Mile on foot.
* 22 Clark is useful for travelers coming from the Loop and the North Side to River North.
* 65 Grand travels down Grand Avenue, connecting with both the Red Line and the Blue Line further west.
* 66 Chicago travels down Chicago Ave from the lakefront to Michigan Avenue, through River North, and on to West Town.
* 124 Navy Pier serves Navy Pier directly from train hub Union Station and Millennium Park in the Loop.
* 125 Water Tower Express brings you to the Water Tower from the other Loop train hub, Ogilvie/Northwestern Station, and the Merchandise Mart.
* 157 Streeterville runs close to Navy Pier and on to the Loop.

#### By trolley

Free trolleys run from Navy Pier through the area seven days a week, year round, during the pier's open hours.

### By car

Avoid driving to the Near North unless you have a very good reason for doing so. Streets are packed with taxis, confused tourists, desperate businessmen late for something or other, and even the occasional horse. Your knuckles don't need the strain.

## See

Along the Magnificent Mile is a one day and night itinerary that connects the Near North with the Loop for shopping, food, skyscrapers, parks, and amazing views of Chicago from high and low.
* 41.8933-87.62251 The Arts Club of Chicago, 201 E Ontario St (Grand Red Line), ☏ +1-312-787-3997. M-F 11AM-6PM. Easy to miss, as it's on a side street without much in the way of signage (or advertising), but this gallery has a long history — it opened in 1916, and hosted Pablo Picasso's art show in the U.S. Visitors will find three public art shows each year, usually of exceptional quality. Note the Mies van der Rohe central staircase, which was transplanted from the club's previous Mies-designed location. Free.
* 41.888861-87.6243612 Bridgehouse & Chicago River Museum, 376 N Michigan Ave (Lake CTA), ☏ +1-312-977-0227. Mid-May to Oct: Th-M 10AM-5PM;. A small museum spread over the five floors of the southwest tower of the Michigan Avenue Bridge. Visitors can see displays on the history of Chicago's famously abused river, and also check out the machinery used for raising the bridge. Tower tours are Fridays and Saturdays at 11AM and 2:30PM beginning in June. Call to reserve your spot. $6 adults; $5 children 6-12, students with ID, and seniors; children 5 and under free. (updated Apr 2019)
* 41.8943-87.62653 The Driehaus Museum, 40 E Erie St (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-482-8933. Tu-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su noon-5PM. Adorning the first floor are decorative arts from the collection of the museum's namesake, Richard H. Driehaus, with plenty of Tiffany stained glass. But it's the restored 1883 mansion itself that garners glowing reviews; inside are 17 different types of marble, hand-painted ceilings, carved exotic wood wainscoting and other marks of superior 19th-century craftsmanship. If you're interested in historic architecture and interior design, this is still a hidden gem without crowds. Adult $20, senior $15, student with ID $10, child 12 and under free, active military free. (updated Apr 2019)
* 41.898889-87.6230564 360 Chicago (Hancock Observatory), John Hancock Center, 875 N Michigan Ave (Chicago Red Line), toll-free: +1-888-875-8439. 9AM-11PM. 360-degree view from the 94th floor. Not quite as high as the Sears Tower Skydeck, but with a better view, and from January to March, an ice-skating rink! For drinks, see the Signature Room below. $22 adults (12 and over), $15 children (3-11). (updated Apr 2019)
* 41.8974-87.62515 Loyola University Museum of Art (Chicago Red Line), 820 N Michigan Ave, ☏ +1-312-915-7600. W-Su 11AM-6PM, to 8PM Tu. Right next to the Water Tower, LUMA is best known for its exhibits on sacred art and architecture, but it occasionally veers into modern art as well, such as an installation of Andy Warhol's silver balloons. $6, free Tu.
* 41.888-87.62886 Marina City, 300 N State St (Merchandise Mart Brown Line), ☏ +1-312-222-1111. M-F 9AM-5PM, Sa 10AM-2PM. No tours available, unless you're cheeky enough to fill out a fake rental application (24 hours in advance), but these iconic twin buildings are worth a photo. (You might recognize them from the cover of Wilco's Yankee Hotel Foxtrot, among many others.) Designed to be "a city within a city," they include a wildly overpriced bowling alley and the House of Blues (see Drink below). If you like Marina City, be sure to visit the South Loop for two more of architect Bertrand Goldberg's corncob structures.
* 41.8972-87.62127 Museum of Contemporary Art, 220 E Chicago Ave (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-280-2660. Tu F 10AM-9PM, W Th Sa Su 10AM-5PM, M closed. Contemporary art from around the world. The MCA has a great location and plenty of financial backing, but it's still fighting for recognition in the museum world; while not an upper-tier institution as yet, that has resulted in some interesting exhibitions. There isn't much of a permanent collection, so check what's on before you go. Also, Marisol is the museums' Latin- inspired all day café, that's quickly become a draw in a part of Streeterville, not exactly known for its cuisine. Suggested admission $15 adults, $8 students/teachers/seniors, free for youth 18 and under. Tuesdays only: free for IL residents. (updated Oct 2018)
* 41.9-87.63068 Newberry Library, 60 W Walton St (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-943-9090. Reading rooms Tu-F 9AM-5PM, Sa 9AM-1PM. The oldest public library in Chicago, although not part of the city library system. The collection focuses on the humanities, American and European history, and the age of exploration. Occasional author events are held. Free.
* 41.890426-87.623679 Tribune Tower, 435 N Michigan Ave (Grand Red Line), ☏ +1-312-222-9100. Built in 1925, the walls of the Tribune Tower contain rocks from many famous world landmarks, including: the Taj Mahal, the Parthenon, the Great Pyramid, the Cathedral of Notre-Dame, the Great Wall of China, the Berlin Wall, and from the New York World Trade Center, demolished in 2001. The Tribune Tower even managed to get its hands on a moon rock, but so far NASA hasn't allowed it to add the rock to the wall.
* 41.8891-87.62667210 Trump Tower, 401 N Wabash Ave. 1362 ft. The Trump Hotel and luxury residential building is both the newest member of the Chicago skyline, completed at the beginning of 2009, and the tallest after the Sears Tower — indeed, it is the fourth tallest in the United States. The Donald intended for it to be the tallest in the world, but decided to scale back following the 9/11 terrorist attacks. The design features three prominent setbacks at the height of nearby buildings: the Wrigley Building, Marina City, and 330 N Wabash, which, combined with its singularly reflective exterior, allow this supertall to blend into the skyline, almost to the point where you could overlook it. As intended, the building reflects and interacts with the Chicago skyline, rather than imposing itself upon it with its great height. Regardless, you will not likely miss this building, and it's plenty interesting to examine — its asymmetric form ensures that you will see something quite different from any different vantage point.
* 41.89716-87.6244211 Water Tower, Chicago Ave & Michigan Ave (Chicago Red Line). In 1871, when Mrs. O'Leary's cow kicked over the lantern in her barn — or was framed for the act, depending on who you ask — the Gothic Revival spires of Water Tower were only two years old. Today, along with the Pumping Station on the other side of the street, the Water Tower is the last, dream-like symbol of the Old Chicago that disappeared in the Fire. Surrounded by hotels and colossal department stores, it's also the icon of the new city that arose. At night, the Water Tower is lit from within, and it's a memorable sight. Inside, the vintage machinery is long gone (along with the water), and the plain interior is occasionally used as a gallery space.
* 41.8988-87.624712 Fourth Presbyterian Church (across the road from the Hancock Center). Daily 8AM-6PM, Su services at 8AM, 9:30AM, 11AM and jazz service at 4:PM. A Gothic Revival church built in 1912 provides a contrast to the surrounding bustle. (updated Nov 2018)
* 41.898611-87.61861113 860–880 Lake Shore Drive Apartments. These glass and steel towers may look commonplace, but they were some of the first glass and steel towers, a concept copied everywhere. The 26 storey apartment towers were built in 1949- 1951 to a design by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe (a nearby street bears his name). The neighbouring 900-910 Lake Shore Drive were also designed by van der Rohe and built in 1955 as one of the first towers to use glass curtain walls. The towers house apartments and the interior is not open. (updated Nov 2018)

### Galleries

Centered between the Merchandise Mart and the Chicago Brown Line station, with a few galleries that stray closer to Old Town or Michigan Avenue, River North boasts the largest arts and design district in North America outside of Manhattan. Art galleries tend to be concentrated closer to Chicago Avenue, with more design galleries closer to the Merchandise Mart. The entire area is walkable and makes for fun browsing. Although everything on display is for sale, admission is almost always free, and visitors needn't fear gallery owners putting on the hard sell.
* 41.89572-87.6359614 Andrew Bae Gallery, 300 W Superior (Chicago Brown Line), ☏ +1-312-335-8601. Tu-Sa 10AM-6PM. Specializes in contemporary Asian art, particularly Korean and Japanese.
* Catherine Edelman Gallery, 300 W Superior St (Chicago Brown Line), ☏ +1-312-266-2350. Tu-Sa 10AM-5:30PM. Contemporary photography and mixed-media.
* 41.89598-87.6359215 Melanee Cooper Gallery, 740 N Franklin St (Chicago Brown Line), ☏ +1-312-202-9305. Tu-Sa noon-4PM. Fascinating contemporary art, mostly abstract and representational.
* Richard Gray Gallery, 875 N Michigan Ave, Suite 2503 (38th floor of Hancock Center - see above), ☏ +1-312-642-8877. M-F 10AM-5:30PM. Big and very big names from modern and contemporary American and European art, including Millennium Park sculptor Jaume Plensa.
* 41.89543-87.6365216 Stephen Daiter Gallery, 311 W Superior St (Chicago Brown Line), ☏ +1-312-787-3350. W-Sa 11AM-5PM. Artistic and documentary photography from America and Europe. (updated Nov 2018)

### Navy Pier

* 41.891389-87.59972217 Navy Pier, 600 E Grand Ave (At the end of Illinois St), toll-free: +1-800-595-7437. Open 10AM daily; closes in summer Su-Th 10PM, F Sa midnight, fall/spring Su-Th 8PM, F Sa 10PM, winter M-Th 8PM, F Sa 10PM, Su 7PM. Built in 1916, Navy Pier has had many different uses over the years; in 1994, it became a tourist attraction, with more than 50 acres of restaurants, shops, and activities by Lake Michigan. It's an easy place to entertain children. Unless otherwise noted, all of the attractions are open during Navy Pier operating hours. Several buses reach Navy Pier, including #29 State, #65 Grand, #66 Chicago, and #124 Navy Pier Express from the two Metra stations in the Loop. Parking available $19-23 per day.
* 41.89173-87.604218 Amazing Chicago's Funhouse Maze, toll-free: +1-888-893-7300. Hours vary; usually 10AM-8PM. 4,000 ft² (370 m$^2$) of tunnels and mazes for adults & kids over 7 years old. $10.95 adults, $9.95 children.
* 41.89104-87.610551 Bike and Roll, toll-free: +1-888-245-3929. Summer 8AM-10PM, Spring/Fall 9AM-7PM, closed in winter. A wide variety of bikes, rollerblades, pedicabs and other wheeled vehicles are available for rent. Tours are also available. Rentals from $8/hr to $34/day.
* 41.89116-87.601692 Boat Cruises. Numerous boat cruises depart from the pedestrian-only "Dock Street," operated by several different companies. Some head inland on the Chicago River, and others stick to Lake Michigan. Double-decker tours also ply the boardwalk.
* 41.8914-87.609219 Chicago Children's Museum, 700 E Grand Ave, #127, ☏ +1-312-527-1000. 10AM-5PM; Th to 8PM. Hands-on exhibits for kids, including the popular Dinosaur Expedition. Admission $8, free Thursday after 5PM, free for children on the first Monday of every month.
* 41.891611-87.60569420 Chicago Shakespeare Theater, 800 E Grand Ave (Navy Pier), ☏ +1-312-595-5600. The CST offers high production values and somewhat bland production experiences; not bad, mind you, but not likely to leave you with much more than a pleasant, faintly-remembered evening. Still, if you're in the mood for Shakespeare, you'll find a professionally-mounted production of one of his major works here throughout the year. $54-70, $20 for age 35 and under. (updated Oct 2019)
* Fireworks. Summer: W 9:30PM, Sa 10:15PM. You can watch the fireworks display from anywhere on the Pier. Booze and live music of varying quality are available at The Beer Garden (+1-312-595-5439, summer W-Sa to midnight, Su to 10PM).
* 41.8912-87.6105921 Pier Park. Su-Th 10AM-8PM, F Sa 10AM-10PM. Includes the signature Ferris Wheel, a mini-golf course, remote-controlled boats, and more. Each attraction $5, Ferris Wheel $18. (updated Oct 2019)
A few Chicago restaurants have branches here. There's also a food court, and vendors along the dock during the summer. You're much better off making the short walk to one of the nearby restaurants off the pier, though — you'll save money and likely eat better. There's no cost for re-entry to Navy Pier, after all.
Among the restaurants, The Billy Goat and Charlie's Ale House serve beers that are brewed in-house. Try the dark beer from the Billy Goat or head down to The Beer Garden to sample Chicago brewers Goose Island.
Shopping is in plentiful supply, although it's pretty much limited to tourist-souvenir Chicago kitsch type stuff.

## Do

Horse-drawn carriages ply routes along the Magnificent Mile and through Streeterville, usually beginning around the Water Tower. (You might see police officers on horses as well.) While there are too many cars to establish the kind of atmosphere you might expect in, say, Central Park, you'll probably know whether the night calls for a carriage ride, and choose accordingly. Expect to pay about $35 for a half-hour tour. College students also roam the area with small yellow cabs attached to the backs of bicycles for a low-cost, low-point alternative.
* Broadway Playhouse at Water Tower Place, 175 E Chestnut St (Water Tower Place) (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-642-2000. Box office opens 10AM, 11AM Sundays. Part of the Broadway in Chicago crew, serving up major touring productions. Tickets $59.50-$69.50.
* 41.8972-87.62393 Lookingglass Theater, 821 N Michigan Ave (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-337-0665. Box office opens at 10AM on weekdays, 11AM weekends. Known for their inventive, acrobatic shows; their repertory production of "Lookingglass Alice" is a knock-out. It's worth peeking inside even if you don't plan to see a show, though, to check out the insides of the old Pumping Station; unlike the Water Tower, its more famous sibling across the street, there's some interesting old machinery to see. Tickets range from $20 on weekdays to $58 on weekends.
* 41.903-87.6234 Oak Street Beach, between 500–1550 Lake Shore Dr. Open during the summer, from dawn to dusk. There is plenty of everybody doing everything at Oak Street Beach. Beyond swimming and sun-tanning, it's one of the city's most popular spots for beach volleyball, and there are concrete paths for cycling and skating. (Do not, however, plan to eat lunch at the overpriced restaurant on the beach.) To get here, cross under Lake Shore Drive through a pedestrian underpass. If the crowds are a bit much, walk a short way south to the smaller, lesser-known beach next to Milton Olive Park (named for a local Medal of Honor recipient).
* 41.8924-87.61555 Bobby's Bike Hike, 540 N Lake Shore Drive (follow Ohio Street east, enter last building on south side through covered driveway), ☏ +1 312-245-9300. 9AM-5PM. Bobby's Bike Hike is Chicago's top-rated company for seasonal bike tours and year-round walking and food tours and bike rentals. Discover the true pulse of the city on urban adventures that are fun for all ages, interests, and fitness levels. Tours offered daily from March to November except Thanksgiving Day. Ticket prices vary. (updated Feb 2018)

### Events & Festivals

* Air & Water Show. Every August, the Blue Angels and the Thunderbirds headline a five-hour show over Lake Michigan. "Show Central" is at North Avenue Beach, but the action may be viewed anywhere from Northerly Island to Montrose Point, inland through Lincoln Park, and offshore by boat. (If you go by water, take a big boat, as the heavy traffic makes for choppy, seasickness-inducing waves.) A dress rehearsal takes place on Friday, often with multiple run-throughs by the headlining act. You won't see 100% of the weekend show, but it's a great way to avoid the crowds.

### Activities

* 41.905242-87.649046 iFLY Lincoln Park, 800 Scott St. Indoor skydiving facility with easy access from the downtown area.

## Buy
### Magnificent Mile

One of the most prestigious shopping streets in the world, this stretch of Michigan Avenue is home to massive department stores, wildly expensive boutiques, and larger-than-usual stores for national chains like The Gap, Banana Republic, and Crate & Barrel. Some retailers even have two or more branches here: one standing alone, and another in one of the department stores. This isn't the place to look for discounts, though. Remember, you're not shopping here because it's cheap — you're shopping here because it's the Magnificent Mile.
* 41.89965-87.624491 900 N Michigan Ave (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-915-3916. M-Sa 10AM-7PM, Su noon-6PM. 70 specialty shops in the most stunning of the Michigan Avenue department stores. Includes MaxMara, among the most expensive stores for women's apparel on a street that's known for expense.
* 41.8929-87.624822 Ann Taylor, 600 N Michigan Ave (Grand Red Line), ☏ +1-312-587-8301. M-Sa 10AM-8PM, Su 11AM-6PM. Money rushes out of wallets at this fashionable women's store, anchor of the 600 N Michigan shopping complex. If you like what you see, also check out the Ann Taylor Loft at 520 N Michigan, and another at Water Tower Place (see below).
* 41.88934-87.623473 Apple Store, 401 N Michigan Ave (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-981-4104. M-Sa 10AM-9PM, Su 11AM-6PM. For some, a welcome respite from all of the clothes; for others, just more expensive fashion. This Apple-sleek showroom carries the full line of the company's products and accessories, and is usually packed with on-lookers pawing at all of the pretty designs. Several workshops are held each day for the true believers. (updated Nov 2018)
* 41.89357-87.623864 Burberry, 633 N Michigan Ave (Grand Red Line), ☏ +1-312-266-7440. M-Sa 9:30AM-6PM, Su noon-5PM. Fashion for men, women, and children from the English retail legend, famous for their made-to-order trench coats.
* 41.89347-87.624535 Cartier Inc., 630 N Michigan Ave (Grand Red Line), ☏ +1-312-787-2500. M-Sa 10AM-6PM. Boutique for the French jeweler and watchmaker.
* 41.89555-87.623916 It'Sugar Michigan Avenue, 717 N Michigan Ave (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1 312-673-8453. M-Sa 10AM-9PM, Su 10AM-7PM. Candy franchise purveyor.
* 41.89379-87.623897 Ermenegildo Zegna, 645 N Michigan Ave (Grand Red Line), ☏ +1-312-587-9660. M-Sa 10AM-6PM, Su noon-5PM. All of the elements for an excessively fashionable man, from shoes to shirts to suits.
* 41.8959-87.623888 Neiman Marcus Showroom, 737 N Michigan Ave (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-642-5900. M-Sa 10AM-7PM, Su noon-5PM. Prada, Chanel, and other designer accessories in this distinctive Michigan Avenue store.
* 41.89443-87.623789 Nike, 669 N Michigan Ave (Grand Red Line), ☏ +1-312-642-6363. M-Sa 10AM-8PM, Su 10AM-6PM. Not quite the hot-spot it was after it opened in 1993, when lines wrapped around the block to get in, but Niketown still exists somewhere between a store and a shrine to Nike products. Athletes from visiting sports teams can often be seen here paying homage (and cash).
* 41.89396-87.623910 Salvatore Ferragamo, 645 N Michigan Ave (Grand Red Line), ☏ +1-312-397-0464. M-Sa 10AM-6PM, Su noon-5PM. Fashionable boutique for women's apparel and accessories. The store is far from cluttered; what they have will sell, and they know it.
* 41.89161-87.6245211 The Shops at North Bridge, 520 N Michigan Ave (Grand Red Line), ☏ +1-312-327-2300. M-Sa 10AM-8PM, Su 11AM-6PM. Includes Nordstom, a Spa Nordstom, a LEGO store, fifty more speciality shops.
* 41.89898-87.628112 Tails in the City, 1 E Delaware Pl (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-649-0347. M-Sa 10AM-6PM, Su noon-5PM. Designer treats and accessories for the fashion-conscious cat and the trend-minded dog.
* 41.89585-87.6245813 Tiffany & Co., 730 N Michigan Ave (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-944-7500. M-Sa 10AM-6PM, Su noon-5PM. Internationally renowned retailer of jewelry, sterling silverware, china, crystal, and more.
* 41.89805-87.62314 Water Tower Place, 835 N Michigan Ave (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-440-3166. M-Sa 10AM-9PM, Su 11AM-6PM. Features an eight-level atrium and over a hundred stores, from fashionable clothes to the Chicago Cubs Clubhouse, and a new Lego store and American Girl Place.

### Other shops

* 41.8886-87.635515 The Merchandise Mart, 222 Merchandise Mart Plaza (Merchandise Mart Brown Line), ☏ +1-312-527-7990. Hours vary by store. The Mart strides the barrier between River North and the Loop, with a train station and a zip code all to itself, not to mention a Holiday Inn, several offices, a school, two radio stations, restaurants, and, of course, shopping. It also includes the Chicago Apparel Center. None of the stores are considered major destinations by themselves, but there are frequent trade shows, and many other reasons for business travelers to find themselves at the Mart.
* Architectural Artifacts, 1065 N Orleans St, ☏ +1-773-348-0622. 10AM-5PM daily. Chicago has built many of the world's greatest buildings, and Chicago has also destroyed many of the world's greatest buildings. This is where a lot of the pieces wind up — an enormous warehouse full of tiles, furnishings, and exterior ornament from classic skyscrapers and bungalows. (Find the interior courtyard for the biggest pieces.) The prices befit the awe the items inspire, but it's absolutely worth a browse whether or not you plan to buy anything.

## Eat
### Budget

This is expensive territory — if you're on a tight budget, you're likely to be stuck with fast food. Most of the department stores on Michigan Ave have food courts.
* 41.89027-87.624491 The Billy Goat, 430 N Michigan Ave, Lower Level (Grand Red Line), ☏ +1-312-222-1525. M-F 6AM-2AM, Sa 10AM-2AM, Su 11AM-2AM. The original location of the famous cheezborger joint. Due to its location under the Tribune Tower, this one has been a haunt for Chicago newspapermen for decades. The burgers are dry and little more than patty and cheese, but delicious nonetheless. $4-7.
* 41.89276-87.621452 Dao Thai, 230 E Ohio St (Grand Red Line), ☏ +1-312-337-0000. Su-Th 11AM-10PM, F Sa 11AM-11PM. Thai food in a spacious, beautiful dining room with plenty of flavor and filling portions. The service can get a bit distracted, but the cooks are always focused. $7-9.
* 41.89439-87.637313 Mr. Beef, 666 N Orleans St (Chicago Brown Line), ☏ +1-312-337-8500. M-Th 8AM-5PM, F Sa 10:30AM-4AM. Should Mr. Beef ever decide to raise an army, city hall ought to be concerned; his Italian beef sandwiches have a fiercely loyal following among the River North lunch crowd, some of whom won't bother with anywhere else. It's closed for dinner, but open for the late-night weekend club scene.
* 41.89278-87.631484 Original Rock 'n Roll McDonald's, 600 N Clark St (Grand Red Line), ☏ +1-312-664-7940. Open 24 hours. It's still McDonald's, with all that entails, and reportedly the third-busiest one in the United States; but there's vintage rock and roll memorabilia to excuse the visit to your conscience, if that's possible.
* 41.8934-87.63155 Portillo's, 100 W Ontario Ave (Grand Red Line), ☏ +1-312-587-8910. 10AM-11PM. Polishes, Italian beef, burgers, and everything else you would expect at a hot dog place, plus one surprise—the chocolate cake milkshake (it's not on the menu, but order a "cake shake," and sweet tooths will have their day). This location, which includes a drive-thru, is decked out in a "Gangster" theme, which is known to produce delight in tourists and queasiness in locals.
* Wow Bao, 835 N Michigan Ave (Water Tower Place - see Buy for details), ☏ +1-312-642-5888. M-Sa 10AM-9PM, Su 11AM-6PM. A good way to fill up on cheap delicious food on the Magnificent Mile, Wow Bao offers carryout steamed Chinese buns filled with all sorts of wonderful meaty goodness. $1-3.

### Mid-range

* 41.89598-87.632396 Café Iberico, 739 N LaSalle St, ☏ +1-312-573-1510. Su-Th 11AM-midnight, F Sa 11AM-1:30AM. Spanish tapas place, usually crowded. Quite good food. $18-30.
* 41.90023-87.626957 Le Colonial, 57 E Oak St, ☏ +1-312-255-0088. Lunch: daily 11:30AM-3PM; dinner: M-F 5-11PM, Sa 5PM-midnight, Su 5-10PM. Excellent upmarket Vietnamese cuisine with a French Indochina theme. Reservations would be a good idea. $18-30.
* 41.89051-87.630688 Frontera Grill, 445 N Clark St (Merchandise Mart Brown Line), ☏ +1-312-661-1434. Lunch Tu-F 11:30AM-2:30PM, Sa 10:30AM-2:30PM; dinner Tu 5:20-10PM, W Th 5-10PM, F Sa 5-11PM. Renowned chef Rick Bayless presents authentic Mexican cuisine as most have never experienced it (outside of Mexico), with a particular emphasis on seafood. Frontera won the 2007 James Beard Award for Outstanding U.S. Restaurant. Also has Topolobampo, the dressier side of the house where reservations are necessary.
* 41.89069-87.630749 XOCO, 449 N Clark St, ☏ +1-312-334-3688. Tu-Th 8AM-9PM, F Sa 8AM-10PM. The newest outlet in the Bayless empire focuses on "street food" of Mexico, with highlights including the red chile chicken and the Xoco salad (pork carnitas, mixed greens, and avocado-lime dressing). Good soups are on later in the day. No reservations are taken — just line up and watch the chefs at work, as the kitchen is in full view. $10-14.
* 41.8978-87.6247410 Ghirardelli Chocolate Shop, 830 N Michigan Ave (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-337-9330. M-Th 10AM-10:30PM, F Sa 10AM-11:30PM, Su 10AM-10PM. Right behind the Water Tower; stop in for the soda fountain, the hot fudge sundae, and other chocolate treats.
* 41.89903-87.648811 Kendall College Dining Room, 900 N North Branch St (3rd floor), ☏ +1-312-752-2328. Lunch: M-F noon-1:30PM; dinner: Tu-F 6-8PM, Sa 6-8:30PM. Fine dining, fantastic skyline views, very reasonable prices, all prepared by student chefs. Goose Island is out of the way, but there is a free parking lot. Some of Chicago's top chefs learned their trade at Kendall College, so expect to be in for a treat. Open only seasonally, so check the website in advance of your visit. $20-30.
* 41.89027-87.6337612 Lou Malnati's, 439 N Wells St (Merchandise Mart Brown Line), ☏ +1-312-828-9800. Su-Th 11AM-11PM, F Sa 11AM-midnight. One of the deep dish pizza giants; pleasant hole-in-the-wall atmosphere a short walk from the Merchandise Mart.
* 41.89232-87.626913 Pizzeria UNO, 29 E Ohio St (Grand Red Line), ☏ +1-312-321-1000. M-F 11AM-1AM, Sa 11AM-2AM, Su 11AM-11PM. By some reckonings, the original deep dish pizza joint. The name has been diminished over the last few years by over-expansion, but this is the original location — they do it better here. Their Italian beef is excellent as well. See also DUE, around the corner at 619 N Wabash.
* 41.89192-87.62814 Weber Grill, 539 N State St (inside the Hilton Garden Inn), ☏ +1-312-467-9696. M-Th 11AM-11PM, F 11AM-midnight, Sa 11:30AM-midnight, Su 11:30AM-11PM. A suburban chain serving up the best BBQ in downtown Chicago. But keep in mind that the steaks are of low quality and overpriced and that the best of Chicago barbecue is off in the neighborhoods — look for Smoque on the Far Northwest Side or any of the great South Side Memphis-style BBQ joints. $12-36.

### Splurge

* 41.89011-87.6357615 Coco Pazzo, 300 W Hubbard St, ☏ +1-312-836-0900. Lunch M-F 11:30AM-2:30PM; dinner M-Th 5:30-10:30PM, F Sa 5:30-10:30PM, Su 5-10PM. Very tasty Italian cafe. Try the gnocchi, and save some room for the fruit desserts. $30+.
* 41.8942-87.632316 Fogo de Chão, 661 N LaSalle St, ☏ +1-312-932-9330. Lunch M-F 11AM-2PM; dinner M-Th 5-10PM, F 5-10:30PM, Sa 4:30-10:30PM, Su 4-9:30PM. Brazilian steakhouse with a twist: diners receive a disc to put in front of their plate, and if it's green, waiters will surround you with skewers of hot meats, unrelenting until you flip the disc over to red. prix fixe, lunch: $24.50, dinner: $38.50.
* 41.89088-87.6357817 Gene & Georgetti, 500 N Franklin St, ☏ +1-312-527-3718. 11AM-midnight. This venerable Chicago steakhouse (over 60 years old) has played host to venerable Chicago steak eaters like Frank Sinatra and Lucille Ball as well as contemporary big shots. It is a traditional Italian-American steakhouse and serves some of the best steak in a city that takes these things seriously.
* 41.90139-87.6281118 Gibsons Bar and Steakhouse, 1028 N Rush St (Clark/Division Red Line), ☏ +1-312-266-8999. 11AM-midnight; bar 11AM-2AM. Look on the wall at the pictures of countless celebrities who have dined at Gibsons and you'll see why it's a must for those who want to stretch their wallets during a visit to Chicago. You may run into a celebrity yourself.
* 41.90024-87.6223819 Rosebud's Steakhouse, 192 E Walton Pl (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-397-1000. M-Th 11:30AM-11PM, F 11:30AM-midnight, Sa 3PM-midnight, Su 3-10PM. A strong contender in the Best Burger in Chicago stakes, and not bad for steaks either. There's also Rosebud's on Rush, an older branch with more celebrity photos on the wall, but the Walton location is more of a favorite with the neighborhood. (updated Nov 2018)

## Drink

Rush Street is probably the single best-known street for drinking and clubbing in Chicago. It's lined with late-night bars, both fashion-of-the-moment designer clubs and generic fake-Irish pubs. Rush Street branches off from State south of Elm and runs parallel to State from there, although the action is north of Chicago Avenue. There's also a similar densely-populated strip of late-night clubs on Division, between Clark and State. Be warned: the Rush Street bars are often referred to by locals as the "Viagra Triangle" for reasons that will become clear shortly after you arrive.
* 41.88993-87.627371 Andy's Jazz Club, 11 E Hubbard St, ☏ +1-312-642-6805. M-F 11:30AM-1:30AM, Sa 5PM-2AM, Su 5PM-1AM. A nice and slightly less pretentious jazz club featuring straight-ahead performances nightly. Admission: $15, Dinner: $15-25.
* 41.89198-87.631352 Blue Chicago, 736 N Clark St (Chicago Brown Line), ☏ +1-312-642-6261. Su-F 8PM-2AM, Sa 8PM-3AM. Live blues most nights of the week, except for Sundays. Has a sister club by the same name just a couple blocks away at 536 N Clark (312 661-0100, no music on Mondays). Cover Su-Th $8, F Sa $10.
* 41.90331-87.629283 The Hangge-Uppe, 14 W Elm St, ☏ +1-312-337-0561. Open 7PM; Su-F to 4AM, Sa to 5AM. The best bar in the Rush/Division nexus. Drinks aren't over-priced, the decor is cool, and there are two floors for dancing, depending on whether you prefer retro or modern beats.
* House of Blues, 329 N Dearborn St (Marina City - see See for details), ☏ +1-312-923-2000. Hours vary by event; Sunday morning gospel brunch starts at 10AM. Food, drinks, and music. Blues fans may find something good, but the roster of bands can stray from the classic old bluesman with a guitar to the worst of twentieth-century music (no genre excepted), so don't show up without checking the schedule first. Tickets can run as low as $10 and upwards of $55 for some national touring acts.
* 41.90405-87.629524 The Original Mother's, 26 W Division St, ☏ +1-312-642-7251. Su-F 8PM-4AM, Sa to 5AM. Hugely popular bar that trades on old rock-and-roll cred — Cream, The Velvet Underground played here long ago — to adorn a modern dance floor and pool tables.
* 41.89705-87.625915 Pippin's Tavern, 806 N Rush St (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-787-5435. Su-F to 4AM, Sa to 5AM. Fake Irish pub, notable mainly for being tucked away behind the Water Tower, right off the Magnificent Mile. The after-work crowd is generally laid back, and the lack of (excessively) loud music and sports TV makes this a decent choice for exhausted shoppers in need of a beer.
* 41.89343-87.628766 The Redhead Piano Bar, 16 W Ontario St, ☏ +1-312-640-1000. Sa 7PM-5AM, Su-F 7PM-4AM. Cocktails, live music, and a schmaltzy sort of elegance.
* 41.89235-87.623217 Second Story Bar, 157 E Ohio St, Apt 2 (Grand Red Line), ☏ +1-312-923-9536. Su-F noon-2AM, Sa noon-3AM. It's no small feat to find this place — look for the pink-lettered sign up on, well, the second story. Inside, you'll find a gay bar that falls on the fun side of sleazy (or the sleazy side of fun), far more of a dive than you would expect in these surroundings and the perfect antidote to hotel bars.
* Signature Room, John Hancock Center, 875 N Michigan Ave (see See for directions), ☏ +1-312-787-9596. Su-Th 5PM-10PM, F Sa 5PM-11PM. Just above the Hancock Observatory (above). Expensive drinks on the 95th floor, with live jazz on the weekends. Skip the over-priced food, but the view makes this a great place for evening cocktails, and a more civilized alternative to the sometimes over-crowded observatory one floor below.

## Sleep

Again, this is expensive territory — nearly every tourist stays here, and the rates reflect that. If price is a concern, remember that this area is well-served by public transportation from every direction, including places where you can sleep a bit cheaper. On the other hand, if part of the vision for your vacation involves a luxurious hotel, this is definitely the place to be.

### Budget

* 41.895133-87.6237331 Warwick Allerton - Chicago, 701 N Michigan Ave (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-440-1500. Classic Chicago building with modern interiors; generations have known it for the neon TIP TOP TAP at the top of the building, referring to the swanky club that operated up there in the 1950s. Rooms from $189 a night. (updated Oct 2016)
* 41.892268-87.632192 Best Western River North, 125 W Ohio St (Chicago Brown Line), toll-free: +1-800-704-6941. A little bit out of the way, but close to I-90/94 for easy travels by car; amenities include free parking and an indoor pool. Rooms from $159 per night.
* 41.893506-87.6219183 Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott, 216 E Ontario St (Grand Red Line), ☏ +1-312-787-3777. 185 rooms and suites. Rooms from $129.
* 41.892342-87.6273194 Freehand Hotel and Hostel, 19 E Ohio St (Grand Red Line), ☏ +1-312-940-3699. A modern hotel and hostel in a building that used to be home to the seedy Tokyo Hotel. Beds in shared rooms from $45, private rooms from $200. (updated May 2015)
* 41.899024-87.6257675 The Whitehall Hotel, 105 E Delaware Pl (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-944-6300. An independent, high-rise hotel in a quiet pocket down the street from the Hancock and Water Tower Place. Rooms from $169 a night.

### Mid-range

* 41.895195-87.623176 Hampton Inn Chicago Downtown/Magnificent Mile, 160 E Huron St (Grand Red Line), ☏ +1 312-706-0888. Formerly the Radisson. Rooms from $144 a night.
* 41.90043-87.623177 The Drake, 140 E Walton Pl (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-787-2200. It was swallowed into the Hilton chain some years ago, but the Drake is still the definition of old Chicago elegance. Founded in 1920, it's on the National Register of Historic Places, and probably has a longer list of celebrity guests than any hotel in the city, save possibly the Palmer House in the Loop. Rooms from $255 a night.
* 41.89287-87.62868 Embassy Suites Chicago-Downtown Magnificent Mile (Grand Red Line), 600 N State St, ☏ +1-312-943-3800. Not right on Michigan Avenue, despite the name, but an easy walk. Rooms from $249 a night.
* 41.89219-87.627769 Hilton Garden Inn Chicago Downtown Magnificent Mile, 10 E Grand Ave (Grand Red Line), toll-free: +1-877-782-9444. Just off the Magnificent Mile, and adjacent to the River North dining & entertainment area. Rooms from $229 a night.
* 41.89309-87.6258410 21c Museum Hotel Chicago, 55 E Ontario St (Grand Red Line), ☏ +1 312-660-6100. Formerly the James Hotel, a boutique hotel with a gym, restaurant, and modern touches such as large LCD TVs, iPod docks, and martini glasses in the mini-bar. Rooms from $160 a night.
* 41.89474-87.6251611 Omni Chicago Hotel, 676 N Michigan Ave (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-944-6664. Among the amenities are an indoor swimming pool and two rooftop sundecks. Rooms from $229.
* 41.88917-87.6193212 Sheraton Chicago Hotel and Towers, 301 E North Water St (Grand Red Line), toll-free: +1-877-242-2558. Does enormous business for business meetings and conventions. Most rooms offer views over the Chicago River. The hotel has a steak house (Shula's) and a burger joint, as well as an indoor swimming pool. Rooms from $199 a night.
* 41.89934-87.6275113 The Talbott Hotel, 20 E Delaware Pl (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-944-4970. 16-story boutique hotel down the block from the Hancock. Though built in 1927, they tout their eco-friendly updates. Crain's ranked it the city's best hotel for business travelers. Rooms from $209 a night.
* 41.89388-87.6156114 W Chicago Lakeshore, 644 N Lake Shore Dr, ☏ +1-312-943-9200. $250.

### Splurge

* 41.89957-87.6252615 The Four Seasons, 120 E Delaware Pl (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-280-8800. Right across from the Hancock. Rooms from $470 a night.
* 41.89134-87.6233216 InterContinental Chicago, 505 N Michigan Ave (Grand Red Line), ☏ +1-312-944-4100. It was built as an athletic club, and is flush with gorgeous 1920s design flourishes. The grand swimming pool on the 14th floor is simply astonishing — worth a look whether you've brought your trunks or not. (If you're not staying here, $15 can usually get you access to the sauna and pool.) Rooms from $349 a night.
* 41.8998-87.6226817 Millennium Knickerbocker Hotel, 163 E Walton Pl (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-751-8100. Across from the Drake and right around the corner from Michigan Avenue, with Nix, a quiet, knockout-delicious cafe/restaurant on the first floor (at knockout-expensive prices). Rooms from $329.
* 41.89705-87.6252118 The Park Hyatt, 800 N Michigan Ave (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-335-1234. A bona-fide member of the Chicago skyline, towering over the Water Tower and the Magnificent Mile. Guest rooms are sleek, stylish, and comfortable, and the hotel's NoMi restaurant is quite good. Rooms from $495 a night.
* 41.89617-87.6252119 The Peninsula, 108 E Superior St (Grand Red Line), toll-free: +1-866-288-8889. Recognized by AAA with a Five-Diamond award. That combined with its high prices and the Mag Mile address mean top-notch service, bells & whistles, and impressive views. Those not sleeping here may want to stop by on a Friday or Saturday night for the all-you-can-eat high-end chocolate buffet (8PM-11:30PM, $26). Rooms from $525 a night.
* 41.89781-87.6220420 The Ritz Carlton, 160 E Pearson St (Chicago Red Line), ☏ +1-312-266-1000. Atop the Water Tower Place shopping center. Rooms from $470 a night.
* 41.8997-87.6273221 Waldorf Astoria Chicago, 11 East Walton, ☏ +1-312-646-1300. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: noon. Previously Elysian Hotel Chicago. A dedicated tower with residential located in the historic Gold Coast neighborhood. Managed by Hilton Worldwide. Hotel has a no-tipping policy. rooms from $690 a night. (updated Oct 2022)

## Connect

* Near North Library, 310 W Division St (Clark/Division Red Line to 70 Division bus), ☏ +1-312-744-0991. M W noon-8PM, Tu Th 10AM-6PM, F Sa 9AM-5PM. Public internet access. It's between the Sedgwick and Chicago Brown Line stations, but a long walk from either. The area is safe during the day, but don't walk far by night.
* The Apple Store (see Buy) is a de facto free internet cafe, with all of the floor models hooked up to wi-fi, and the salesmen-to-customer ratio virtually ensures nobody will bother you if you want to dash off a few emails home.

## Go next

* Old Town is just north, and segues neatly into the Near North with smaller boutiques, smaller palatial mansions, and the city's landmark theaters Steppenwolf and Second City.
* Wicker Park offers a parallel Magnificent Mile of hip, independent stores, bars and clubs. Lincoln Square is another exceptional shopping destination.