# Haddington

Haddington is a market town in East Lothian, 15 miles east of Edinburgh in central Scotland. It's the administrative centre of East Lothian council area, with a population of 10,360 in 2020.

## Understand

"Haddington" means the farm where Hada's folk live. The name is Anglo-Saxon not Gaelic, as until the 10th century East Lothian and Edinburgh were ruled by Northumbria. The area is lowland, with well-drained bright red sandstone soil and bedrock, and it's astride the main transport route from England. When it was ceded to Scotland, Haddington became a Royal Burgh and developed as a market town, manufacturing cloth. In 1645 those who worked in the cloth mills were exempted from military service, so hiring became a whole lot easier. However this enterprise foundered in the 18th century and Haddington never became industrial as the villages on the coalfield to the west had long been. That meant its medieval street pattern was preserved, and modern developments have respected this. The town therefore retains a pleasant rural ambience while traffic scurries past just north on the A1.

## Get in

Haddington is just off the A1. East Coast Bus X7 runs from Edinburgh to Haddington (50 min), East Linton and Dunbar, daily every 30 min.
East Coast Bus 104 runs from Edinburgh to Haddington via Musselburgh, Wallyford and Tranent. It runs daily every 30 min and takes an hour.
Night bus N106 runs after shortly midnight F Sa from Edinburgh to Musselburgh, Wallyford, Tranent, Macmerry, Haddington, East Linton and Dunbar.
Cyclists may not use A1, take the old road parallel, nowadays A199.
55.9869-2.66221 East Linton, opened in Dec 2023, has trains every hour or two from Newcastle, Berwick and Dunbar, heading for Edinburgh. It's a platform halt with ticket machines but no other facilities. Both platforms have step-free access.
56.0056-2.7862 Drem four miles north of Haddington has hourly trains on the Edinburgh to North Berwick line. Bike-on-train from Edinburgh would work.

## Get around

Eves Coaches Bus 121 runs from Haddington to North Berwick via East Fortune and Drem railway station, daily every couple of hours.

## See

* 55.9532-2.77181 St Mary's Parish Church, Sidegate Haddington EH41 4BZ. Closed for rebuilding. Substantial attractive church from the 14th century. The interior is being rebuilt, you can admire the exterior but entry is limited to services, held Sunday 9:30AM and 11AM. (updated Jan 2023)
* St Martin's Kirk is the scenic ruin of an 11th century Norman church. It's 100 yards east of the river.
* 55.9389-2.77782 Lennoxlove, Haddington EH41 4NZ, ☏ +44 1620 623720. Apr-Oct: W Th Su noon-4PM. Imposing tower house, begun in the 15th century and expanded since. Visit by guided tour. Adult £10. (updated Jan 2023)
* 55.9734-2.68413 Hailes Castle is a ruin near East Linton. Built in the 13th century, it was partly demolished by Cromwell in the 17th, and is fenced off as unsafe.
* 55.963056-2.67254 Traprain Law is a crag 221m / 725ft high, where glaciers scooped away other rock leaving a scarp, a tail of debris and an easily defended site. On top was an oppidum or hill fort, occupied from at least 1500 BC. When the Romans arrived they found it occupied by the Votadini, who later decamped to the similarly-formed Castle Rock in Edinburgh. In 1919 a hoard of broken-up 5th century Roman silver was found here (now in the NMS, Edinburgh): it may have been sawn up to use as coinage.
* 55.9936-2.79065 Chesters Hill Fort is an Iron Age earthwork, circa 500 BC. A well-preserved system of ditches and ramparts protected a settlement.
* 56.001-2.7096 The National Museum of Flight is at East Fortune Airfield off B1347 three miles east of Haddington; bus 121 runs this way. See Gullane listing.
* Aberlady Bay, five miles north, is a bird reserve.
* 55.992-2.6517 Preston Mill, Preston Rd, East Linton EH40 3DS. Th-M 12:30AM-5PM. Picturesque 18th-century watermill with a conical red-pantile roof, now managed by NTS. See also Phantassie Doocot just across the river. Adult £7, conc £5, NTS / NT free. (updated Jul 2021)

## Do

* Golf: Haddington GC is half a mile east of town, white tees 6403 yards, par 71, visitor round £20.
* 55.892-2.8911 Glenkinchie Distillery is open daily Mar-Oct 10AM-5PM, Nov-Feb 10AM-4PM for tours (standard £10) and tastings. It's at Peastonbank EH34 5ET, off A6093 midway between Haddington and Dalkeith. They offer a shuttle service between Edinburgh Waterloo Place and Glenkinchie twice a day at 10AM and 1:30PM, £14 return, phone +44 1875 342012 to book.
* Haddington Agricultural Show is held on East Fortune racing circuit northeast of the air museum. A shuttle bus runs from Haddington. The next show is probably Sa 5 July 2025, tbc.
* Lammermuir Festival is classical music in Haddington, usually at St Mary's or Holy Trinity, and other venues across East Lothian. The next is 4-15 Sep 2025.

## Buy

* Tesco a block north of town centre is open M-Sa 7AM-10PM, Su 8AM-8PM.

## Eat

* Waterside Bistro across the footbridge is open daily 11AM-11PM.

## Drink

* 55.95555-2.783281 The Railway, Court Street. pub (updated Oct 2023)
* 55.95586-2.77592 The New Pheasant, Market Street. pub (updated Oct 2023)

## Sleep

* Victoria Inn (La Teraza), 9 Court St EH41 3JD (town centre), ☏ +44 1620 248110. It has five modern rooms en suite. (updated Jan 2023)
* Maitlandfield House Hotel, 24 Sidegate EH41 4BZ (between St Mary's and rugby pitch), ☏ +44 1620 826513. Pleasant little hotel in 17th-century mansion but decor showing its age. B&B double £150. (updated May 2024)

## Connect

As of July 2023, Haddington and its approach roads have 4G from O2, Three and Vodafone, and 5G from EE.

## Go next

* North to the sandy beaches of Gullane and harbour of North Berwick, for boat trips to Bass Rock.
* West to Musselburgh for the races.
* East to the historic fishing village of Dunbar and clifftops towards Eyemouth.