# Harrogate

Harrogate is an attractive Regency / Victorian spa town in North Yorkshire, with fine public gardens, and on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales. Its spa hotels have morphed into conference and "wellness" centres, and it's well stocked with good eating places, including the famous Betty's Tea Rooms. In 2024 the population was 164,100.

## Understand

In Old Norse hǫrgr gata indicates a street to a heap of stones. It was a cluster of separate villages until its spa waters became fashionable in the 17th century, and accommodation and amusements were built for its visitors. (Those amusements were essential, as the waters are cold and pungent.) Harrogate's heyday was 19th century Regency / Victorian, so it was already past its best when Agatha Christie fled here in 1926. Meanwhile it was becoming industrial, and a commuter town for nearby Leeds. However the local council realised the value of protecting Harrogate's old centre, so this retains its period charm with relatively few modern intrusions.

## Get in
#### By plane

53.866-1.6611 Leeds-Bradford International Airport (LBA). This is actually more accessible from Harrogate than it is from Leeds or Bradford, as it lies north of those cities and you dodge most of the traffic on the approach; so flying to London (by BA to Heathrow LHR5) can beat the train. LBA has good connections from western Europe, e.g. Dublin, Amsterdam, Düsseldorf, Paris and Brussels, as well as domestic flights from Southampton, Exeter and Belfast. The budget carrier Jet2 is based here. Bus 737 connects LBA to Harrogate town centre. (updated Apr 2024)
From beyond western Europe, use Manchester Airport (MAN). It has global connections, competitive fares, and an hourly train from Leeds.
Flying into any of the London airports involves a one-hour journey into London Kings Cross, then a 3-hour train ride north.

#### By train

53.9933-1.53742 Harrogate station stands on a loop of line from Leeds (35 minutes) to York (40 minutes via Knaresborough). Direct trains from London Kings Cross run every two hours, taking 3 hours via Stevenage, Grantham, Doncaster, Wakefield and Leeds.
From other destinations change at Leeds or York for the loop train, which runs every 30 min. At Leeds this is shown as going to Poppleton, a small halt just outside York, to avoid travellers for York going the long way round. Similarly at York, it's shown as going to Burley Park in the Headingley / University quarter of Leeds.
Harrogate station is central in town and has a staffed ticket office and machines. There are toilets, a waiting room, a cafe and ATMs. There is step-free access to all platforms. Plusbus tickets are available for this station.

#### By road

From the north, follow the A1 then A59 west then bypass Knaresborough via A658 and A661. From the south, the signed route is the same, but consider leaving A1 sooner at Junction 45 into Wetherby and going via A661. From the south end of Leeds use the new A63 to join M1 which merges into A1 then heads towards Wetherby; but from northern or central Leeds just go straight up the A61.

#### By bus

Long-distance bus lines no longer run to Harrogate, change at Leeds.
From Leeds take Harrogate Bus 36 (the plum-red one), which runs every 15 minutes, taking 70 min via the A61 past Harewood House. Alternate buses continue to Ripon. Bus 7 from Leeds takes twice as long, via Bramham, Boston Spa, Wetherby and Spofforth.
From Bradford Bus A2 runs hourly via the airport, taking 75 min.
From Knaresborough Bus 1 runs every 30 min, taking 30 min via Starbeck.
From Pateley Bridge Bus 24 runs every two hours, taking 55 min.
No direct bus runs from York, change at Leeds. Bus 23 / 24 from York to Knaresborough rambles through more Yorkshire villages than you'd think possible.
Harrogate bus station is 100 yards north of the railway station. It's just a long draughty bus shelter with no facilities.

## Get around

Walking is best for town centre, and cycling will quickly get you to outlying attractions. Avoid driving in town, as it can be very congested.
Harrogate Buses circulate around town. Bus 1 plies the main road to Knaresborough.
The trains from Leeds also stop at Pannal and Hornbeam Park in the south of town, and at Starbeck on their way to Knaresborough.
The most reliable taxi operator is Mainline (☏ +44 1423 555555).

## See

* Town centre: Simply strolling the central streets and arcades is a joy.
* 53.9931-1.54281 Betty's Tea Rooms, 1 Parliament Street HG1 2QU, ☏ +44 800 456 1919. Daily 9AM-9PM. Famous, with long queues to eat in at weekends. Or you could get everything for a picnic from the onsite bakery, then head into one of the green spaces to enjoy. (updated Apr 2024)
* Royal Pump Room Museum, Crown Place HG1 2RY (next to The Crown), ☏ +44 1423 556188. W-Su 10AM-4PM. This celebrates the town's spa heyday. The original Spa is a town in Belgium: Harrogate's natural spring waters were discovered circa 1571 to have similar composition. Add in a Georgian / Victorian social scene, the invention of railways and leisure travel, and oodles of publicity, and here you are. The mineral-rich springs are variously of "chalybeate" (iron) and of sulphur. Do taste some: it's the sulphur that you're destined to remember. Adult £4, conc or child £3. (updated Apr 2024)
* 53.9942-1.54682 Mercer Art Gallery, 31 Swan Rd HG1 2SA, ☏ +44 1423 556188. W-Su 10AM-4PM. Mostly 19th and 20th century fine art. Free. (updated Apr 2024)
* 53.9913-1.55093 Valley Gardens are the town's main park, with floral displays, open spaces and a small cafe. Many of the historic town springs emerge in this area, though they're nowadays mostly capped off or bottled. Daytime it's a genteel area to stroll, and the obvious walking route to Harlow Carr Gardens. Open 24 hours but after dark it's poorly lit and can attract sleazy denizens.
* 53.9953-1.55314 St Wilfrid's on Duchy Rd is an elegant imposing Anglican church, completed in 1914.
* St Peter's, built in 1870, is on Cambridge Rd 100 yards northwest of the station.

### Further out

* 53.9822-1.57255 RHS Harlow Carr Gardens, Crag Lane, Beckwithshaw HG3 1QB (3 miles south), ☏ +44 1423 565418. Daily Mar-Oct 9:30AM-6PM, Nov-Feb 9:30-4PM. Some of the best blooms in the North of England. It has its own branch of Betty's Tea Rooms. Assistance dogs only. Adult £15.85, child £7.95, RHS free. (updated Apr 2024)
* 54.0084-1.4676 Knaresborough is a charming market town 4 miles east, perched on the gorge of the River Nidd.
* 54.041-1.5687 Ripley Castle, Ripley HG3 3AY, ☏ +44 1423 770152. April-Oct daily 10AM-4PM. 18th century mansion that Sir John Inglelby couldn't afford, so he scarpered abroad to escape his debts. The family managed to retain it and still live here. Visit by pre-booked guided tour. Adult £17, conc £15, child £3. (updated Apr 2024)
* 54.0778-1.67538 Brimham Rocks, Summerbridge HG3 4DW (10 miles north off B6165), ☏ +44 1423 780688. Daily 9AM until dusk. Millstone Grit is the tough rock underlying this area, and it crops out into striking formations - these are the best. Free. (updated Apr 2024)
* Almscliff Crag is another outcrop, off A658 to Bradford and the airport, and Plumpton Rocks are off A661 to Wetherby and the A1.
* 53.8969-1.52739 Harewood House, Harewood LS17 9LG (7 miles south on A61), ☏ +44 113 218-1010, info@harewood.org. April-Sept daily 10:00-18:00. A palatial 18th century mansion built by Carr & Adam with extensive grounds by "Capability" Brown and an exotic bird garden. Adult £18, child £10. (updated Apr 2024)

## Do

* Turkish Baths, Parliament Street HG1 2WH, ☏ +44 1423 556746. Daily 9AM-8:30PM. They offer a splendid Moorish-style sauna and soak. Some sessions are men or women only. Two-hour session £35. (updated Apr 2024)
* Royal Hall is an Edwardian theatre of 1903 on Ripon Road opposite Harrogate Inn, adjoining a modern convention centre.
* Harrogate Theatre is at 6 Oxford St, Box Office +44 1423 502116.
* Cinema: Everyman is on Station Parade and Odeon on East Parade, both just south of the station.
* Football: Harrogate Town AFC play soccer in League Two, the fourth tier. They play at CNG Stadium on Wetherby Road (capacity 3800) a mile southeast of town centre along A661.
* Rugby Union: Harrogate RUFC play 15-a-side down in the amateur leagues.
* Cricket: Yorkshire Women play at St George's Road south side of town. The men play at Headingley in Leeds.
* Golf: courses near town are Harrogate GC, Rudding Park at the hotel, Pannal GC and Oakdale GC.
* Harrogate Flower Show have their spring show at the Great Yorkshire Showground, with the next on 25-28 April 2024. Their autumn show is in September at Newby Hall, see Ripon.
* International Festival is throughout June and July, with mostly classical music.
* Great Yorkshire Show is an agricultural show in July, with the next on 9-12 July 2024. The showground is two miles east of town centre on A661 towards Wetherby. A free bus shuttles between the bus station and showground. This is in addition to regular buses 770 and 771 from Leeds and Wetherby towards Harrogate, which stop outside the showground. Motorists must follow signs and ignore Satnav, as access roads have temporary one-way systems.
* Crime Writing Festival is next held on 18-21 July 2024 at the Old Swan Hotel.
* Literature Festival is in October.

## Buy

* Victoria Shopping Centre, Station Parade HG1 1AE (opposite station), ☏ +44 1423 569550. M-Sa 9AM-6PM, Su 10AM-4:30PM. Elegant arcaded centre, parking available. (updated Apr 2024)
* Waitrose is at 92 Station Parade, 200 yards south of the station, open M-Sa 8AM-8PM, Su 10AM-4PM.

## Eat

* Drum & Monkey, 5 Montpelier Gardens HG1 2TF (next to Travelodge), ☏ +44 1423 502650. M-Sa noon-2PM, 5:30-9PM. Seafood with French influence. (updated Apr 2024)
* Mykonos, 4 Mayfield Grove HG1 5HB, ☏ +44 1423 565151. M-F 4:30-10PM, Sa noon-10:30PM, Su noon-9PM. Lively Greek bistro. (updated Apr 2024)
* Harrogate Brasserie, 30 Cheltenham Parade HG1 1DB (opposite theatre), ☏ +44 1423 505041. M-Th noon-2:30PM & 5-9:30PM, F-Su noon-9:30PM. Different menus or a la carte. It's also a hotel. (updated Apr 2024)
* Shalimar maybe has the edge in the strip of Indian restaurants along Cheltenham Parade. It's at No 9 by the theatre, open Tu-Su 5-10PM.
* The Ivy, 7 Parliament St HG1 2QU (next to Betty's), ☏ +44 1423 787100. Daily 08:30AM-11:30PM. Classic British fare. (updated Apr 2024)
* William & Victoria, 6 Cold Bath Road HG2 0NA (next to White Hart), ☏ +44 1423 506883. M-Sa noon-11PM, Su noon-6PM. British classic cuisine, with downstairs bistro and upstairs restaurant. (updated Apr 2024)
* Giggling Squid is a Thai restaurant at 1 John St, a block north of Hotel du Vin, open daily noon-10:30PM.
* Three's a Crowd, 11 West Park HG1 1BL (50 yards north of West Park Hotel), ☏ +44 1423 391459. Su-Th noon-11PM, F Sa noon-midnight. Modern fusion cuisine earning great reviews. Nice views of the park across the street, but the outdoor seating is a little uncomfortable. Several vegetarian and vegan options available. (updated Apr 2024)

## Drink

* Cheltenham Parade has pubs alternating with curry houses. Harrogate Tap is within the railway station, and near the theatre are North Bar, Trotters, The Inn, Little Ale House, Christie's and Best Bar.
* Parliament Street (A61 northbound) has The Winter Gardens (JD Wetherspoon), Mojo, Roland's, All Bar One, Foundry Project, Major Tom's Social and Harrogate Arms.
* The Fat Badger is within the White Hart on Cold Bath Rd, open daily noon to 9:30PM.
* Harrogate Spring Water is a very drinkable commercial brand of local spring water, low in minerals, and not to be mistaken for the concussion inflicted by high-mineral Harrogate spa water.
* Breweries hereabouts are Harrogate Brewing, Daleside and Rooster's.
* Distillery: Sing Gin is based in the village of Kettlesing 7 miles west. No tours.

## Sleep

As a spa town, many Harrogate hotels date back 200 years, and you can aim to stay somewhere with real character. There are many modern chains within a mile or two, while B&Bs are in the leafy suburbs further out.
Harrogate does a lot of corporate and event accommodation and can become booked out, especially for the Great Yorkshire Show in July. Big events in York can have the same effect. If you can't get in, consider staying in central Leeds and day-tripping by train.
* 53.9958-1.54751 Old Swan, Swan Rd HG1 2SR, ☏ +44 1423 500055. 200 year old and full of atmosphere, though some rooms are dated with poor beds. When Agatha Christie's first husband went off with another woman in 1926, she faked a suicide disappearance but ten days later was spotted staying here, under that other woman's name. B&B double £170. (updated Apr 2024)
* The Crown, Crown Place HG1 2RZ (opposite Old Swan), ☏ +44 1423 567755. Comfy hotel, 300 years old but mostly modern rooms. B&B double £120. (updated Apr 2024)
* Travelodge is on The Ginnel 100 yards east of Old Swan.
* 53.9926-1.54582 White Hart, 2 Cold Bath Rd HG2 0NF, ☏ +44 1423 505681. 250 year old coaching inn, now often a conference venue. Comfy and central. B&B double £120. (updated Apr 2024)
* 53.9953-1.54483 Harrogate Inn (formerly St George Hotel), 1 Ripon Rd HG1 2SY, ☏ +44 1423 561431. Thoroughly spruced up under new ownership, this is a smart central hotel. B&B double £120. (updated Apr 2024)
* 53.9968-1.54374 Majestic Hotel (Doubletree by Hilton), Ripon Rd HG1 2HU, ☏ +44 1423 700300. Grand pile opened in 1900, this is a spacious spa hotel near town centre. B&B double £120. (updated Apr 2024)
* Premier Inn Town Centre is at 9 Springfield Ave next to the Majestic.
* 53.9913-1.54125 Hotel du Vin, 11 Prospect Place HG1 1LB, ☏ +44 1423 608121. Slick central hotel, spacious rooms, dog-friendly. B&B double £160. (updated Apr 2024)
* Travelodge is at 26 Tower St 100 yards south of Hotel du Vin.
* 53.9886-1.54016 West Park Hotel, 19 West Park HG1 1BJ, ☏ +44 1423 524471. Smart hotel with great dining near The Stray. B&B double £220. (updated Apr 2024)
* 53.9916-1.52977 Cedar Court, Park Parade HG1 5AH, ☏ +44 1423 858585. Historic hotel on The Stray. B&B double £200. (updated Apr 2024)
* Premier Inn Harrogate South is at Hornbeam Park Ave, near the GYS showground.
* 53.9735-1.49258 Rudding Park, Rudding Lane, Follifoot HG3 1JH (off A658), ☏ +44 1423 871350. Plush countryside Georgian mansion with 90 bedrooms, spa, 2 restaurants, golf course and parkland. B&B double £300. (updated Apr 2024)

## Connect

As of April 2024, Harrogate and its approach roads have 4G from Vodafone, and 5G from EE, O2 and Three.

## Stay safe

Harrogate is mostly a very safe town. Even at night, drunken anti-social behaviour isn't common. Stay away from Valley Gardens at night, where the low lighting occasionally attracts dubious characters.

## Go next

* Knaresborough four miles east has a ruined 12th-century castle and a witch's lair by the picturesque River Nidd.
* Near Ripon is must-see Fountains Abbey.
* The Yorkshire Dales and North York Moors are scenic national parks easily reached by car.
* Veterinary practice in Thirsk inspired the tales of James Heriot, and his house there is now a museum. Learn more about his profession at Yorkshire Farming Museum outside York.
* York is a charming walled city. Within its Yorkshire Museum is the "Harrogate Hoard", a collection of almost 700 Viking coins, discovered locally in 2007.