# Birnam

Birnam is a village in the Highland part of Perth and Kinross, which grew up in the 19th century as a resort town when the railway reached it. It's on the west bank of the River Tay, which here makes an S-bend, so it becomes the south bank. It's connected by the 200-year old Telford Bridge to Dunkeld on the east bank. Their combined population in 2021 was 1350.
A few ancient trees are all that remain of the primeval Birnam Wood — the one that marched off to Dunsinane in Shakespeare's play Macbeth — but there are extensive modern woodlands above Craigvinean.

## Understand
### Visitor information

* Dunkeld and Birnam visitor information website

## Get in
### By train

56.5571-3.57831 Dunkeld & Birnam Station is close to the village centre. There are trains every hour or so from Edinburgh, Glasgow Queen St and Stirling via Perth, which continue north to Pitlochry, Aviemore and Inverness. (Some Inverness trains don't stop here, change at Perth.) The Caledonian Highland Sleeper (for Inverness) runs overnight Su-F leaving London Euston after 9PM and dropping off here towards 6AM; the southbound sleeper picks up around 11PM to reach Euston for 8AM. You might prefer to take the Lowland Sleeper from Euston towards midnight and change at Edinburgh for a daytime train; going south you need to leave Birnam before 9PM to pick up the southbound sleeper in Edinburgh.
This station is not suitable for passengers with impaired mobility. Trains in both directions use Platform 1, which has step-free access; Platform 2 is only accessible by footbridge. Both platforms are low like a continental halt, so the on-train ramp can't be used.

### By bus

Most of the inter-city buses along the A9 rush past Birnam, so you need to change either in Perth or at Broxden P&R on its outskirts. Citylink M91 is a direct bus once daily from Edinburgh via Halbeath (for Fife), Kinross, Broxden P&R and Perth, taking 2 hours to Birnam and continuing to Pitlochry, Blair Atholl, Newtonmore, Kingussie, Aviemore and Inverness.
Stagecoach Bus 23 / 27 runs every hour or so from Perth via Birnam to Aberfeldy.

### By car

Access from the A9 Edinburgh to Inverness road is from junctions at the north and south ends of the village.

### By plane

Edinburgh Airport is an 80-min drive from Birnam. From the airport take the direct bus to Inverkeithing and get the train to Perth, where you'll probably have to change: the Edinburgh-Inverness trains stop either at Inverkeithing or Birnam but not both. The other route is to take the tram from the airport to Edinburgh Haymarket, then a train to Stirling, change for the Glasgow-Inverness train.

## Get around

Walking is fine for Birnam, Little Dunkeld and Dunkeld. Buses and trains run up the valley from Perth through Birnam to Pitlochry and Aberfeldy - see "Get in" - but you'll need your own transport to get anywhere else.
Taxi: Birnam Autocabs, based at Perth Road, Birnam. ☏ +44 1350 728828.

## See

* Dunkeld Bridge, completed in 1809, spans the Tay to Dunkeld. It has sidewalks on both sides, but is often busy with traffic.
* Little Dunkeld Kirk 100 yards east of the bridge approach was built in 1798.
* 56.5609-3.57661 Birnam Oak is on the riverside at the foot of Oak Road. Its girth of 7 metres indicates that it's 500 to 600 years old. It's a last remnant of Birnam Wood, the primeval forest that once cloaked this valley. There are several other old trees nearby, which some visitors mistake for the oak: the ancient sycamore is larger but is a mere 300 years old. Recognise the real thing by (a) it not being a sycamore, (b) it's specifically a sessile oak: the acorns grow direct from the twigs, not on stalks; and (c) there's a pretty obvious sign.
* 56.5584-3.57752 Birnam Arts, Station Road PH8 0DS, ☏ +44 1350 727674. W-Su 10AM-4PM. A multi-purpose building with a cafe, Beatrix Potter exhibition and shop, workshops, WiFi, visiting music and drama and the Library. Beatrix Potter (1866-1943) spent several childhood holidays at nearby Dalguise, and it was on a later holiday to Eastwood, just across the river in Dunkeld, that she created the basis for Peter Rabbit. She was also a notable naturalist (Perth Museum displays her paintings of fungi) and conservationist. This exhibition recreates the creatures and environment that inspired her. Exhibition £3.50. (updated Mar 2024)
* Craigvinean Forest, one mile west of Birnam, is accessed via a track just west of the little River Braan. Autumn colours are gorgeous here but are best admired in the morning: the light fades early as the sun goes behind the crags to the south.
* 56.5575-3.6143 The Hermitage within the forest is a collection of 18th-century follies commemorating the Celtic Bard Ossian. These include the "Hall of Mirrors" an art installation reflecting a waterfall, and "Ossian's Cave", which they couldn't recruit a hermit to live in so they paid a guide to dress up as one. All this was inspired by the 18th-century publishing blockbusters of Fingal, Temora and Ossian, supposedly the works of that 3rd-century Bard: they were all the fabrication of the industrious James Macpherson.
* The Forest is part of Tay Forest Park which comprises a dozen or so separate tracts across Perth and Kinross. The main portion and visitor centre is on Loch Tummel. The emphasis of the park is on recreation and it's nothing like as wild as Cairngorms National Park.
* 56.5417-3.51134 Murthly Castle is mostly 19th century. It's nowadays an events venue, no tours.

## Do

* Walk: Birnam is the start of many excellent walks.
* Niel Gow Fiddle Festival carries on the traditions of the renowned fiddler Niel Gow (1727-1807) - not "Neil", that was his grandson. It's held around 22 March, his birthday, with the next on 21-23 March 2025.
* Birnam Highland Games are held on the last Saturday in August on Games Park, Little Dunkeld, with the next on Sa 30 Aug 2025. Various stalls, piping and dancing, athletics, and not least the World Haggis Eating Contest.

## Buy

The village shop is at 3 Murthly Terrace by the Birnam Hotel, open daily 6:30AM-9PM.
People do their main shopping in Perth, and you'd do well to refuel there.

## Eat

* 56.5581-3.57571 Chattan Tea Room, Perth Rd PH8 0BH (within Post Office), ☏ +44 1350 727342. M-F 9AM-5PM, Sa 9AM-4PM. Unusual building in American Frontier style with herring-bone timber, built in 2004. You half-expect Rin Tin Tin to come bounding out, so yes, the Tea Room is dog-friendly, with a good selection of refreshments. (updated Mar 2024)
* Birnam Inn within Birnam Hotel is open daily 9AM-9PM.

## Drink

You'll probably do better in Dunkeld.

## Sleep

* 56.5594-3.57771 Birnam Hotel, Perth Road PH8 0BQ, ☏ +44 1350 728030. Trad hotel near railway station, comfy enough. Amenities include a bar and pizzeria. (updated Mar 2024)
* 56.5577-3.57732 Merryburn Hotel, Station Road PH8 0DS, ☏ +44 1350 727216, info@merryburn.co.uk. Small guesthouse with 5 rooms, clean and comfy. B&B double £125. (updated Mar 2024)
* Tayburn House, Perth Road PH8 0AA (opposite Birnam Hotel), ☏ +44 1350 728822. Clean friendly B&B. B&B double £90. (updated Mar 2024)
* 56.5608-3.60083 Inver Mill Farm Caravan Park, Birnam PH8 0JR (Off A822 at junction with A9), ☏ +44 1350 727477. Clean well-run site by river, open April-Oct. Dogs welcome. Tent £22, caravan £30. (updated Mar 2024)
* Dunkeld across the bridge has more accommodation.

## Connect

As of March 2024, Birnam, Dunkeld and the A9 have 4G from EE, O2 and Vodafone, but a poor signal from Three. 5G has not reached this area.

## Go next

* The road and railway wind up the valley through Pitlochry, the Pass of Killiecrankie and Blair Atholl, then climb the bleak moors over to Speyside and Aviemore.
* South you re-enter the lowlands on the way to Perth.
* Cut east over the hills to Blairgowrie & Rattray and Forfar for the last relics of the Picts.