# Dunkeld

Dunkeld is a village in the Highland part of Perth and Kinross, Scotland, on the east bank of the River Tay (which here makes an S-bend, so it becomes the north bank.) The village of Birnam is on the opposite bank, connected by the Telford Bridge; the combined population in 2021 was 1350.
The original village was near the cathedral, but was smashed up by a battle in 1689. Dunkeld was therefore rebuilt in the early 18th century, and is the best-preserved example in Scotland of the style of that era. In 1809 the seven-arched Telford bridge was opened across the Tay, and highway and village became re-aligned. Dunkeld and Birnam long stood on the A9 main road north, but were bypassed in 1977.

## Get in

Dunkeld is just off the A9 main road from the south towards Inverness. Stagecoach bus 23 / 27 runs hourly from Perth via Birnam and Dunkeld (40 min), continuing to Aberfeldy. But most intercity coaches along the A9 bypass Dunkeld, and there's just one Citylink bus per day from Edinburgh, heading for Inverness.
The A923 climbs east over the hills towards Blairgowrie & Rattray; the bus along this route has been axed.
56.557-3.5781 Dunkeld & Birnam Railway Station is across the bridge in Birnam. It has trains every hour or two from Edinburgh and Glasgow via Perth en route to Pitlochry, Aviemore and Inverness.

## Get around

Dunkeld is a small village, so you can walk everywhere. Loch of the Lowes (2 miles) can be reached by the Fungarth Path.
Taxi: Birnam Autocabs are based at Perth Road, Birnam, +44 1350 728828.

## See

* Dunkeld Bridge spans the Tay from Birnam. It has sidewalks on both sides, but is often busy with traffic.
* 56.5651-3.58961 Dunkeld Cathedral, Cathedral Street PH8 0AW, ☏ +44 1350 727249. Apr-Sept daily 10AM-5PM, Oct-Mar M-F 10AM-3PM. Built between 1260 and 1501, the Cathedral is surprisingly large for such a small village. It's partly ruined but still holds services. It has lovely riverside grounds, which stretch to Dunkeld House Hotel. The attached Chapter House Museum features relics from monastic and medieval times, as well as an insight into local history. Donation. (updated Mar 2024)
* 56.5744-3.56182 Loch of the Lowes, Dunkeld PH8 0HH (On A923, two miles northeast of Dunkeld), ☏ +44 1350 727337. Mar-Oct daily 10:30AM-5PM, Nov-Feb F-Su 10:30AM-4PM. The largest of the chain of shallow, reedy, peaty "Lunan Lochs", Loch of the Lowes is a wildlife reserve with ospreys (Apr-Aug), beavers (May-Aug), red squirrels (Mar-Nov) and many other resident birds, and migratory birds especially early winter. There's an observation hide (always open) 200 yards from the osprey nest. Dogs are welcome on the reserve, but only guide dogs in the visitor centre or hides. Adult £5.50, conc £5, child free. (updated Mar 2024)

## Do

* Walks: two easy strolls follow the river. West bank go from Birnam Oak, under the A9, past Inver and onward to the Hermitage; east bank from the cathedral to the Dunkeld House Hotel.
* Golf: Dunkeld & Birnam Golf Club is a mile up A923 towards Loch of the Lowes. White tees 5471 yards, par 69, visitor round £36.
* Going Pottie, 2 Cathedral St PH8 0AW, ☏ +44 1350 728044. M, W-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-4PM. Pottery studio, gift shop with range of ceramics. You can paint your own - acrylic for decorative items, glaze for functional items. (updated Mar 2024)
* Taste Talk, 14 High St PH8 0AJ, ☏ +44 1350 727423, info@tastetalk.co.uk. M-Sa 11AM-4PM. Whisky and luxury chocolate tasting sessions, called "flings". £40 for a 90-minute tasting. (updated Mar 2024)

## Buy

* Scots luxuries: Malt whisky, smoked salmon, fine cheeses, and anything marketed with pictures of misty glens? Okay, but first check the prices and range available in the Perth supermarkets 15 miles south, which you can do online.
* Jeremy Law, City Hall, Atholl Street PH8 0AR, ☏ +44 1350 727569. M-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su noon-5PM. Sells deerskin and leather goods including moccasins, shoes and gloves. You can also order online. (updated Feb 2024)
* The Scottish Deli, 1 Atholl Street PH8 0AR, ☏ +44 1350 728028. Su-W 9:30AM-5PM, Th-Sa 9:30AM-11PM. Long-established well-stocked delicatessen with cheeses, cakes, jams, chutneys and meat. Also with restaurant. (updated Mar 2024)
* Dunkeld Smoked Salmon, 3 Atholl St PH18 0AR, ☏ +44 1350 727639. Daily 8AM-8PM. A small shop selling wild and farmed salmon smoked on site, as well as various accompaniments. You can also order online. (updated Mar 2024)
* Atholl Gallery, 6 Atholl Street PH8 0AR, ☏ +44 1350 728855. Daily 11AM-5PM. Contemporary art gallery, selling paintings, ceramics and sculpture. You can also buy online. (updated Mar 2024)

## Eat

* Craft Diner is a fish & chips takeaway in the car park north end of Atholl St, open Th-M 8:30AM-8PM.
* Dunkeld Fish Bar, 12 Atholl St PH8 0AR, ☏ +44 1350 727486. W-F 3-8PM, Sa Su noon-8PM. Traditional fish & chip shop, serving fish suppers, smoked sausage and pies. (updated Mar 2024)
* Scottish Deli (above) has a restaurant open summer evenings.
* The Clootie Dumpling (formerly Spill the Beans), 6 Cathedral St PH8 0AW, ☏ +44 1350 728111. Th-Su 11AM-3PM. Friendly place for lunch, brunch, or coffee and cake. (updated Mar 2024)

## Drink

* Perth Arms, High St PH8 0AJ, ☏ +44 1350 727270. Pub with decent food. They may have rooms. (updated Mar 2024)
* Hotel bars open to non-residents are at Atholl Arms, Royal Dunkeld and Taybank, see "Sleep".

## Sleep

* 56.5651-3.58521 Atholl Arms Hotel, Tay Terrace PH8 0AQ, ☏ +44 1350 727219. Smart welcoming hotel, dog-friendly, with public bar and Riverview Restaurant. B&B double £150. (updated Mar 2024)
* The Taybank, Tay Terrace PH8 0AQ (by Atholl Arms), ☏ +44 1350 677123. Small hotel, more like a restaurant with rooms. B&B double £200. (updated Mar 2024)
* 56.5666-3.58572 Royal Dunkeld Hotel, Atholl Street PH8 0AR, ☏ +44 1350 727322. Decent place in centre of village, dog-friendly. Also with restaurant, public bar and beer garden in the rear courtyard. Double (room only) £120. (updated Mar 2024)
* Bakehouse Cottage, St Ninians Wynd PH8 0AT (next to Royal Dunkeld), ☏ +44 7808 481311, ssoggdunkeld@icloud.com. Self-catering cottage. Pets at owners discretion. (updated Mar 2024)
* 56.565-3.6113 Dunkeld House Hotel, Blairgowrie Road, Dunkeld PH8 0HX (Turn left through Baronial archway at top of village main street), ☏ +44 1350 727711, reservations@dunkeldhousehotel.co.uk. Upscale hotel in a forested estate on the banks of River Tay a mile west of Dunkeld. Rooms in the new part are well appointed but not large. Those in the old part may be larger and river views. Good dining, pleasant atmosphere. Lots of shooting, hunting and fishing in the grounds and nearby. No dogs in main hotel, but they're welcome in the two adjacent blocks, "General Wade's" and "Fisherman's Cottage". B&B doubles £210. (updated Mar 2024)

## Connect

As of March 2024, Dunkeld, Birnam and the A9 have 4G from EE, O2 and Vodafone, but a poor signal from Three. 5G has not reached this area.

## Go next

* Pitlochry 14 miles north has a dam and fish ladder, and festival theatre.
* Aberfeldy amidst Highland scenery was the subject of poems by Robert Burns and William McGonagall.