# Cloghane

An Clochán or Cloghane is a village on the north coastline of the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry. It's 40 km west of Tralee and in 2011 it had a population of 297.
Together with Bréanainn or Brandon it was once a major fishing harbour for mackerel. It has harbours and beaches but the main reason to visit is the mountain range rising abruptly behind, penetrated by scenic glaciated valleys. This area is part of the Gaeltacht so only the Irish versions of placenames are official.
Castlegregory or Caisleán Ghriaire 15 km east is on the sandy Magharee Peninsula and is the main local base for water activities.

## Get in

For inter-city routes travel via Tralee, which has buses and trains from Dublin, Limerick and elsewhere. Onward public transport is sparse: enquire of your accommodation when booking, they may offer a pick-up, especially if someone has an errand in Tralee that day.
Bus Éireann 273 from Tralee only runs on Friday, twice, via Blennerville, Camp and Castlegregory, taking just under an hour to 52.236-10.1821 Cloghane. It doesn't reach Brandon.
Bus 275 from Tralee runs via Camp to Annascaul and Dingle, so it brings you within a 5 km hike of Castlegregory, but leaves you well short of Cloghane.
By road from Dublin follow M7 / M20 past Limerick then N21 via Adare and Castleisland to Tralee, then N86 onto the north shore of the Dingle peninsula. Branch off at Camp onto R560, and follow it to Castlegregory, Cloghane and Brandon. This is also a scenic alternative route to Dingle over Conor Pass, for light vehicles and hardy cyclists only.

## Get around

You need your own wheels. The nearest taxi operator is Castlegregory & Camp Taxi +353 86 662 4150.
The nearest bike hire shops are in Tralee and Dingle.

## See

* 52.288-10.161 Srón Bhroin or Brandon Point is the end of the road, 2.5 km north of Brandon. It's a good place for watching sea-birds, especially in autumn when westerly gales drive birds into the bay. Regularly seen are Pomarine, Great Skua, Manx and Sooty Shearwater, Storm Petrel, Gannet and Kittiwake; see Kerrybirding for recent sightings. It's also one of the likelier places to spot dolphins or whales from shore, though you've always more chance by boat. A footpath up the hill opens out views towards the Clare coastline and Aran Islands.
* 52.277-10.1582 Trá Bán (say "Trawbawn") means white beach. It's a secluded little bay on the otherwise-rocky coast between the Point and Brandon village.
* 52.269-10.163 Brandon village was once an important mackerel-fishing port but is now a quiet little harbour with a handful of pubs. The beach by the quay is good for kiddy-bathing but is covered at high tide.
* 52.264-10.1584 Ballyquinn or Brandon Bay beach is east of the Owenafeanna stream - the west side is muddy. Either walk across the footbridge from Brandon or drive up the lane that branches off R550 at Halla le Chéille.
* 52.25-10.1615 Cappagh is another good spot for kiddy-bathing, as it's sheltered, sandy, and has nearby parking.
* Cloghane the main village is clustered around St Brendan's RC church, built circa 1900 in neo-Romanesque style. Faha green lane is the start of a 3 km low-level walk, tweely described as "Fairy Glen". Follow it uphill to the back lane (which can be reached by car), and take it east for 1 km before heading back down to the coast road. Faha lane has become infested with "fairy dwellings", there ought to be some kind of insecticide.
* 52.192-10.2386 Mullach Bhéal, known locally as "Glen", is a scenic valley into the mountains with a narrow paved lane. The lane starts from R550 at the south end of Cloghane village and heads south for 5 km with only a gradual rise, till it ends at a farmhouse. Either turn back here or hike another hour up the green lane or boreen to the saddle between the hills ahead. This was the traditional pilgrimage and pack-horse route to Dingle. Some hiking trails to Mount Brandon use the Glen road.
* 52.214-10.1627 Loch a'Dúin is a scenic valley 3 km south of Cloghane with many ancient stone structures. The trail starts at Kilmore Cross, the T-junction of R550 with the Dingle-Tralee road over Conor Pass. The lake and its valley are anglicised as Lough Adoon, but beware, you're not heading for Lough Doon up that pass. The trail is well marked but after wet weather the river is not fordable. Most of the 90-some structures are Neolithic, circa 2500 BC. There are standing stones, fulachtaí fiadh pits for roasting venison, inscribed rocks and beehive huts. "Giant's Grave" or Ballyhoneen wedge tomb has an equinox sunrise alignment. Loch a'Dúin means "lake of the fort", which sits on an islet. You can circle the lake or go back the way you came - the state of the river might be the decider - and reckon 2-3 hours.
* 52.187-10.198 Pedlar's Lake is a small corrie lake above the road towards Conor Pass. (It's actually Lough Doon, but not to be confused with Loch a'Dúin to the northeast.) Park at the layby near the waterfall and walk up the short track to the lake in an amphitheatre of stone.
* 52.182-10.2079 Conor Pass is the top of the road to Dingle. It's a good road but narrow and twisty in places, and hazardous when socked in by mist; vehicles over 7.2 m length or 2 tonnes may not use it. The road south of the pass to Dingle is a moderate gradient down the "dip" of the mountain range. North to Cloghane down the scarp, waterfalls foam down the mountainside like a "swords & sorcery" movie scene or arty advert for craft gin, but this section of road is a hairy descent and will need your full attention.
* 52.229-10.12510 Gleann na hUamha (Glenahoo) is another scenic U-shaped valley. It's one of the most dramatic yet least known of the glaciated glens on the peninsula, partly because there's nowhere to park without obstructing the narrow highway or someone's gate. You might have to park at Baile Dubh (Ballyduff) cemetery 1.2 km west. The road makes a sharp turn to cross the Gleann na hUamha river and the track starts just east of this, with another track outlet 500 m further east. It leads into the mountains for 4 km to a ruined farmstead. Turn around here or follow the clear trail onto the ridge, for great views on a clear day. It continues across a very soggy plateau then descends the other side to Annascaul. In Irish uamh means a cave, or in this context a prehistoric souterrain.
* 52.244-10.12511 Fermoyle beach is part of the 12 km sweep of Brandon Bay. This happens to be the section you reach via Fermoyle village, with closer road access than the sections called Kilcummin beach, Stradbally beach, and so on. The beach is still walkable at high tide.
* 52.256-10.0212 Castlegregory is a settlement straggling along the lane up Magharee Peninsula. There are beaches both sides, and it's the main base for water sports, listed in Do. There's also a golf club, eating places and accommodation.
* 52.317-10.0331 Magharee Islands or "Seven Hogs" are seven islets off Rough Point. They're uninhabited but used as summer grazing, with the livestock got across the water by hook or by crook. Illauntannig the largest has a ruined monastery, with beehive huts and a church, and its farm cottage may be available for self-catering lets. The main reason to come is for diving or snorkelling. Boat trips run from Castlegregory.

## Do

* 52.235-10.2542 Mount Brandon (Cnoc Bréanainn, "Brendan's hill") is the signature ascent of 952 m / 3122 ft. It's described further in Dingle as the usual approach is from Ballybrack to the west up the "dip" slope. From the east is a tougher proposition as you clamber up the scarp. For the Faha route, drive up the lane north of Cloghane village then follow the path onto the ridge, precipitous in places. An even tougher trail starts from Brandon and takes in all the main summits of the ridge.
* Skills development: Explore More provide Mountain Skills (MS1 & MS2) courses in the area, and lead hikes.
* Dingle Way is a 176 km hiking trail that begins in Tralee and circles the Dingle Peninsula. The whole circuit takes 8 days but you can easily do short sections. The first stage is from Tralee to Camp, then the second stage is south over the hills to Inch and Annascaul. You return to this area over the north coast hills to Cloghane on Day Six, and Day Seven follows the beach to Castlegregory. The final day is via Camp back to Tralee.
* Fishing is a major sport hereabouts. Licences are required for fly-fishing for salmon and trout, but not for coarse, shore or sea fishing.
    - Shore fishing spots include Brandon pier, Cappagh, Drom, the Owenmore estuary at Cloghane, and Fermoyle. Bass and flounder aplenty.
    - Sea fishing will get you cod, pollock, ling, cat shark (aka dogfish), mackerel, turbot, skate, bass and shark.
    - Freshwater fly-fishing is along Owenmore River and its many lakes and pools. Owenmore Fishery$^{[deadlink]}$ controls access and can sort you out with tackle, licences and good gen on where to try.
* Splash Sports is a water activities centre next to Sandy Bay caravan site on Magharee Peninsula.
* Waterworld is a PADI-accredited dive shack at Fahamore harbour at the tip of Magharee Peninsula. They run training courses and boat trips.
* Jamie Knox is a watersports shop on the peninsula. They offer tuition in surfing and wind-sailing.
* Boat hire is available from Lynes in Brandon, see Sleep. Hire includes instruction and safety equipment. They can also sort you out for fishing tackle.
* Castlegregory Golf Links, Stradbally V92 VC59, ☏ +353 66 713 9444, info@castlegregorygolflinks.com. A scenic nine-hole course overlooking Brandon Bay. Twice around off blue tees is 5260 m, par 68, visitor €55. (updated May 2021)
* Tinteán Ceoil$^{[deadlink]}$ is community trad music, sing-song and story-telling in the style of bothántaíocht - gathering in someone's kitchen rather than the pub, so women and youngsters could fully participate. It's year-round on Monday 19:30-21:30, adult €5. In summer it's also on Thursday evening. The sessions are in Halla Le Chéile, Brandon V92 DK4C.
* Horse riding: O'Connor's lead treks along the beach near Castlegregory.
* The Wild Atlantic Way is a long-distance motoring and cycling route along the entire western seaboard of Ireland. The local section is self-evident: from Tralee via Camp and Castlegregory to Cloghane and Brandon, then over Conor Pass to Dingle and the tip of the peninsula. Continuing south, you don't return to Cloghane but stay on the south shore through Inch, turning towards either Killorglin or Killarney to follow the Ring of Kerry circuit of Iveragh Peninsula.

### Events

* Hillwalking and Music Festival is in early April, with a range of easy, moderate and difficult walks. The next is probably 8-10 April 2022 but tbc.
* Castlegregory Summer Festival is the second weekend in July. The next is probably 8-11 July 2022 but tbc.
* Cloghane & Brandon Summer Festival$^{[deadlink]}$ is over the last weekend in July. Various activities, take your pick from hill walks, welly-tossing, music, sheep-shearing . . . The next is probably 22-25 July 2022 but tbc.
* Brandon Regatta is a series of boat races for traditional naomhóga. It's from Brandon pier, on the last Sunday in August weather permitting. The next is probably on Sun 28 Aug 2022 but tbc.

## Buy

* The nearest ATM, post office, filling station and pharmacy are in Castlegregory. The nearest banks are in Dingle.
* Siopa an Phobail (Cloghane Store), Drom West, Cloghane V92 X5WY (opposite St Brendan's Church). M-Sa 09:00-18:00, Su 09:30-13:00. General convenience store plus local artisan foods. (updated May 2021)
* Outdoor gear: the big store is Landers on Manor West Retail Park in Tralee.
* Artwork: the Cloghane-Brandon strip is something of an artists' colony, and you'll see their work in local pubs and accommodation. They include:
    - Brandon Gallery which is 1 km north of Cloghane;
    - Teer Gallery$^{[deadlink]}$ on a side-lane another km north;
    - Stiúideo Lios na Caolbhaí in Brandon.

## Eat

* O'Connor's is the only place around Cloghane or Brandon that you'd call a "restaurant", see Sleep. They serve daily 08:30-10:00 and 19:00-20:30. The bar also has food and is open to 01:00.
* Spillane's, Fahamore, Castlegregory V92 PX93 (Near tip of Magharee Peninsula), ☏ +353 66 713 9125. F-M 17:00-20:30. Bar and family-friendly restaurant for seafood and steaks, great views. (updated May 2021)

## Drink

* Mullally's (O'Shea's), 14 Farran, Brandon V92 YV00, ☏ +353 66 713 8154. Daily 12:00-00:00. Smart friendly place for a drink or a meal after a hike. (updated May 2021)
* Murphy's, Farran, Brandon V92 T680, ☏ +353 86 343 0267. Good spot to eat or drink by Brandon pier. (updated May 2021)
* Tigh an Cúinne (Kathy's), 3 Farran, Brandon (next to Mullally's). Evening bar, informal music sessions, but it remains closed in 2021. (updated Aug 2021)
* Castlegregory and Magharee pubs include Maurice Fitzgerald's and Green Room Bar.

## Sleep
### Budget

* Camping: In Cloghane, Mount Brandon Hostel and O'Connor's Guesthouse have camping facilities. Wild camping is also possible, but check with local residents or landowners and tread lightly.
* Mount Brandon Hostel, Cloghane Village V92 YC93, ☏ +353 85 136 3454, MountBrandonHostel@eircom.net. Family-friendly place open Mar-Jan with dorm, private rooms and self-catering apartments. Dogs permitted. Dorm €25 ppn, B&B double €60. (updated May 2021)
* Sandy Bay$^{[deadlink]}$ have camping and caravan sites on both shores of the Magharee Peninsula, €30 per pitch.

### Mid-range

* O'Connor's Bar & Guesthouse, Main St, Cloghane V92 PV48, ☏ +353 66 713 8113, oconnorscloghane@gmail.com. Friendly bar / restaurant with rooms, they also have self-catering cottages. B&B double €90. (updated May 2021)
* Mount Brandon Lodge, Cloghane, ☏ +353 66 713 8117. Clean friendly B&B open June-Aug. B&B double €80. (updated May 2021)
* Brandon Mountain Cottage is a self-catering cottage 600 m from Cappagh beach, eircode V92 C6P2, tel +353 87 177 4392 / 4644.
* Lyne's Cottages, Brandon V92 TY39, ☏ +353 66 713 8257, maria@lynescottages.com. Two self-catering cottages by the harbour. They can fit you up with boat hire. (updated May 2021)
* Brandon Bay Cottages, Brandon, ☏ +353 66 713 8141, info@brandonbaycottages.com. They have a stone cottage and stone farmhouse for self-catering lets, both near Brandon Point. (updated May 2021)
* Kilcummin midway along the road between Castlegregory and Cloghane has a cluster of B&Bs and self-catering. They include Shores Country House, Kilcummin House, Watersedge Cottage, Beenoskee and Fortfarm House.

## Stay safe

* Usual care over traffic (not just on Conor Pass - there are lots of blind bends on the lanes) and safeguarding valuables.
* The weather can quickly turn nasty on Mount Brandon, with mist obscuring the trail, rocks becoming slippy, and sheer drops.

## Connect

As of May 2021, Cloghane has patchy mobile cover from all Irish carriers. In Brandon you might manage a mobile call with Eir or Three. The signal is much better on the main road to Castlegregory and Tralee, you'll even get 5G from Vodafone.

## Go next

* South over Conor Pass brings you to Dingle, the main town on the peninsula. The area has great Atlantic views and many Iron Age structures.
* The Blasket Islands are reached by boat from Dingle, Ventry or Dunquin.
* Iveragh Peninsula is the next one south. The Ring of Kerry circuit usually starts from Killarney.
* East is Tralee the county town and transport hub.
* Cloghane
* Brandon, County Kerry