# Manhattan/Lower East Side

The Lower East Side of Manhattan is a mix of old and new, bohemian and upscale: you can find trendy bars and music venues, a venerable old no-nonsense place that just might serve up the best pastrami sandwich in the world, and great bialys.

## Understand

The Lower East Side is bounded by Houston Street, the Bowery, the Manhattan Bridge, and the East River, with the neighborhood's center being Orchard Street. For over 200 years, the Lower East Side has been a working-class immigrant neighborhood: it had large Irish and German populations in the early 19th century, and was a wholesale Jewish enclave by 1900. This street is now a true multicultural blend, with trendy boutiques, French cafés, and velvet-roped nightspots sprinkled among dry-goods discounters, Spanish bodegas, and mom-and-pop shops selling everything from T-shirts to designer fashions to menorahs. The East Village was also traditionally considered part of the Lower East Side, but that neighborhood has developed its own identity.
It was here that the New York garment industry began. The area used to be known as one of New York's favorite bargain beats, where serious shoppers found fantastic bargains (especially along Orchard Street on a Sunday afternoon), but this is a thing of the past as rents skyrocket and cutting-edge new designers and boutiques formerly seen in SoHo flock to the area.
Much of what used to be considered the Lower East Side, east of Bowery and the Manhattan Bridge overpass, is now functionally part of Chinatown, as another wave of immigration continues to move further north and east.

## Get in

Several bus lines go to the Lower East Side, or you can take the J, M, or Z subway lines to Essex Street; the F to Delancey Street (which is connected to the J/M/Z Essex St. station), East Broadway, or 2nd Avenue; or you can take the B or D to Grand Street.

## See

* 40.7185-73.9901391 Lower East Side Tenement Museum, 103 Orchard St., ☏ +1 212-431-0233. Tu-F 11AM-6PM, Sa Su 10:45AM-6PM, M (visitor center only; no tours) 11AM-5:30PM. Advance tickets recommended as tours sell out quickly.
* 40.71657-73.990792 Lower East Side Visitor Center, 54 Orchard Street, ☏ +1 212-226-90101, toll-free: +1-866 224-0206, info@lowereastside.org. Daily 10AM-4PM.
* 40.72234-73.992833 New Museum, 235 Bowery. M Tu closed, W F Sa Su 11AM - 6PM, Th 11AM - 9PM. Building designed by award winning Japanese office SANAA. Contemporary art - the 'I don't get it' kind. Temporary exhibitions, also a good bookshop and Sky Room with views (weekends only). Adult $16, senior $14, student $12, free: Th 7–9PM.
* 40.71294-73.976564 East River Park, Montgomery St. to E. 12 St., FDR Drive. This park is a little rough and ready, but there are nice views from the Promenade, and if you are in the neighborhood on July 4, this is where you want to go to see the fireworks if you can't get invited to someone's roof and are too late to get onto the elevated FDR Drive. Just make sure your view isn't blocked by a tree.
* 40.7218-73.99155 Sara Delano Roosevelt Park, Chrystie St (between Houston and Canal Sts). Shared with Chinatown. The part of the park between Delancey and Houston Sts. has a soccer field and some basketball courts, so in addition to some relaxing greenery, you may see people playing sports or do so yourself in good weather. Watch out for the rats after dark, though they are unlikely to be of any danger to you, while they get their wind sprints in and look for food.
* 40.7185-73.99126 Kehila Kedosha Janina Museum, 280 Broome St (Subway: F M J Z to Delancey St/Essex St or B D to Grand St), ☏ +1 516-456-9336. Su 11AM-4PM. Museum inside the only Romaniote (Greek-speaking) synagogue in the Western Hemisphere, telling the story of Greek Jews. Designated a NYC Landmark in 2004. Free.

## Do

* 40.71418-73.986431 Lower East Side Jewish Conservancy, 235 East Broadway. The LESJC runs private and public tours of the Jewish Lower East Side. The tours are unique as they take visitors into synagogues rather than just the outside. Buy tickets ahead of time as they sell out fast.
* 40.72306-73.989992 Sunshine Cinema, 143 E Houston St (between Forsyth St and Eldridge St), ☏ +1 212-260-7289. This relatively new multiplex cinema, done up to look like a movie palace of old, quickly became a landmark in the neighborhood, and is an excellent place to watch a film.

## Buy

* 40.72137-73.988961 Bluestockings Radical Books, 172 Allen St. (between Stanton and Rivington), ☏ +1 212-777-6028. Daily 11AM-11PM. A fun radical feminist bookstore that also has a little cafe and a regular calendar of readings and other events.
* 40.7148-73.98222 Moishe's Kosher Bakery, 504 Grand Street #1 (between Willett St. and Columbia St), ☏ +1 212-673-5832. Su–Th 9:30AM–6:30PM, F 9:30AM–3PM, Sa closed. This is an old-fashioned kosher bakery. Among their excellent offerings are their strudels, mandel bread, rugelach, black & whites, danishes, almond horns, cinnamon sticks and kichlach (big crispy sugar cookies), and their challahs are also very popular. Their hamantashen are also good. The Chinese almond cookies are good, but some of the smaller cookies are not too consistent in quality. The counterwomen are always willing to help you select items that were baked that day. Items that are in individual portion size, like black & whites, danishes, and almond horns, cost around $2.50-$3 apiece, but rugelach and mandel bread are quite a lot more expensive and must be bought by the quarter pound (minimum) or as an entire large piece, respectively. The staff will be happy to cut you a piece of strudel, and they will also slice challah for you without extra charge. Wednesdays and Thursdays are particularly good days to visit, as they have fresh chocolate and sometimes also cinnamon babka those days, and with any luck, you can get some that's still warm (unfortunately, they no longer sell it by the slice; you'll have to get half a babka or an entire one). There is no place to sit, so all business is for takeout, and they do not have napkins or utensils to give you. (updated Apr 2021)

## Eat

* 40.71869-73.99031 Congee Village, 100 Allen St (just south of Delancey), ☏ +1 212-941-1818. Daily 11:00AM-10:00PM. Hong Kong-style food. It is a very popular banquet spot for Chinese people, with a wide and interesting menu including some of the best hot and sour soup you'll find in Manhattan and the garlicky house special chicken. Some people find the food overly oily, though. Seafood dishes are expensive, but most of the rest of the menu remains a good value as of 2022, as it has been for decades. Call for reservations if you have a large party or are going for dinner on a weekend. Expect to pay $20-35/person for a large meal. (updated Aug 2022)
* 40.71627-73.988552 Doughnut Plant, 379 Grand St (between Essex and Norfolk; Subway: F J M Z to Delancey St; Bus: 14A to Grand St. (last stop westbound)), ☏ +1 212-505-3700. Tu-Su 6:30AM-6:30PM. This ain't no Dunkin' Donuts! Each doughnut costs roughly $2.50, but the place is a really fabulous, artisanal palace (albeit humble-looking) of doughnutry.
* 40.72123-73.993283 Hot Pot Village (formerly Congee Bowery), 207 Bowery (just south of Rivington St), ☏ +1 212-766-2828. Congee Village's sister restaurant specializes in hotpot.
* 40.72232-73.987384 Katz's Deli, 205 E Houston St (at Ludlow), ☏ +1 212-254-2246. A classic NYC delicatessen. The famous fake orgasm scene in When Harry Met Sally was shot here. Have what she was having: A pastrami sandwich. If you're a pastrami lover, you will long remember your trip to this establishment. Don't lose your ticket, and don't forget to tip the counterman at least $1 per sandwich. If you want something other than pastrami, their corned beef and brisket vie for second best and even their turkey is fine (though it's probably not what you're there for); make sure to ask for anything "juicy" (i.e., fatty).
* 40.72313-73.990145 Yonah Schimmel's Knishes Bakery, 137 E Houston St (between Orchard and Allen), ☏ +1 212-477-2858. Claims to have served "The World’s Finest Knishes since 1910" - a bakery that has been selling knishes on the Lower East Side since 1890 from its original location on Houston Street. As the Lower East Side has changed over the decades and many of its Jewish residents have departed, Yonah Schimmel's is one of the few distinctly Jewish businesses and restaurants that remain as a fixture of this largely-departed culture and cuisine.

## Drink

The Lower East Side is a very popular neighborhood for drinking, especially on the part of young people, who come from nearby, other parts of town, the suburbs, and even foreign countries — meaning that, especially on weekend nights, it can be uncomfortably packed, with tremendous crowding on the streets as well as on lines to get into bars and in the bars, themselves. Here are some highlights of the scene:
* 40.71964-73.987861 The Whiskey Ward, 121 Essex St. (Between Delancey and Rivington. F M J Z train to Delancey/Essex or M14 bus), ☏ +1 212-477-2998. This whiskey specialist bar can be quiet on weekdays. It's a good spot for anyone who enjoys whiskey or/and wants to explore more whiskeys, as they have a selection of unusual bourbons, ryes, Scotches, and Irish whiskeys. The prices for whiskeys that are also found in non-specialist bars may be higher here, but the bartenders are real experts, who can guide you in selecting 3 half-pours for a whiskey flight (or two flights, if you aren't driving and have the tolerance). The flights are priced as a sum of exactly half the cost of a shot for each whiskey or rye you drink. There are also beers on tap, etc., so if you are with a non-whiskey drinker, do not despair.

## Sleep

* 40.71979-73.988091 Hotel on Rivington, 107 Rivington St, ☏ +1 212-475-2600. 21-story glass tower full-service hotel with unobstructed views.
* 40.7182-73.986262 Holiday Inn Lower East Side, 150 Delancey Street, ☏ +1 212-475-2500, Guest.Services@holidayinnnyc.com. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. A fairly standard Holiday Inn except for the Retro diner serving as the hotel's restaurant. This is the hotel located the deepest into the Lower East side of all, and hence it is in a slightly deserted area, facing a parking crater. (updated Aug 2016)
* 40.72173-73.987653 Hotel Indigo Lower East Side, 171 Ludlow Street. The idea of Intercontinental's Indigo chain is to provide a boutique hotel experience in a chain hotel, but many of the Indigos fail to live up to that. The one in Lower East Side, however, wholly does with a truly unique experience provided by its loft-like spaces and light, airy rooms echoing Scandinvaian designs, wooden flooring and practical designer furniture included. The supertall outlier in a low-rise neighbourhood provides multiple terraces as its slender build tapers off towards the top, one even includes a small pool. The Mr. Purple rooftop bar is an institution, and works of art can be found throughout the hotel. The only letdown may be the rather large room count, approaching 300 - meaning also that only the best rooms get the hotel's signature views. (updated Aug 2016)

## Go next

The obvious places to go next are
* the East Village, which is to a large extent a northern extension of the Lower East Side;
* Chinatown;
* NoLiTa, a neighborhood of upscale boutiques, quiet residential streets and loud clubs that was once the northern part of Little Italy and is not part of Chinatown but is covered in the Chinatown guide; and
* SoHo, a little ways further to the west than NoLiTa, much more crowded with tourists and shoppers, but with a lot of beautiful, classic buildings and cobblestoned side streets. All of these neighborhoods are easily walkable from the Lower East Side, for a person of normal fitness.
You can also access Williamsburg by taking the M, J or Z trains or walking across the Williamsburg Bridge, and DUMBO and Downtown Brooklyn are on the other side of the Manhattan Bridge or the first and second stops on the F train in Brooklyn, respectively.