# Stromness

Stromness is a port on the Mainland of the Orkney Islands, with a population of roughly 2200. To the Vikings, Straumsnes meant the headland just south, where a fierce tide rips between Scapa Flow and the Atlantic; get past that and you came safely into Hamnavoe or "peaceful harbour" where the town now stands. It's long been a fishing village but it was more important in the 17th and 18th centuries, when Britain was often at war with France, the Channel was unsafe, and shipping had to detour around the north of Scotland. Hudson's Bay explorers and traders, and the expeditions of Captain Cook and of Franklin, all stopped here for rest and re-supply. Today Stromness is the second largest town in the Orkneys but it's a quiet place, with a pleasant narrow flagged main street, and it's escaped the industrial sprawl seen around Kirkwall.
The Travel Information Centre is the Travel Centre by the bus and ferry terminal.

## Get in

Northlink car ferries sail 2 or 3 times daily between Stromness and Scrabster, taking 90 min. If you book a cabin on the early morning sailing to Scrabster, you can board between 9:30PM and midnight the previous evening.
58.964-3.2961 Stromness ferry terminal is central in town next to the bus terminus.
The other ferry routes from the Scottish mainland to Orkney are Aberdeen-Kirkwall-Shetland, Gills Bay to St Margaret's Hope, and John O'Groats to Burwick: see Orkney Islands#Get in.
Orkney Ferries sail at least twice a day from Stromness to Moaness at the north end of Hoy and to Graemsay. The ferry to Lyness at the south end of Hoy and to Flotta sails from Houton five miles south of Stromness: Bus 5 connects twice a day.
By road from Kirkwall is 14 miles along A965. Stagecoach X1 runs hourly from St Margaret's Hope via Kirkwall and Stenness. April-Oct M-F it extends, doubling back from Stromness to Stenness, Ring of Brodgar and Skara Brae.
A taxi in 2024 costs about £45 from Kirkwall town centre and £55 from the airport.

## Get around

Stromness is compact and its flagged main street is a pleasant stroll.
The Stones of Stenness are only four miles away, an hour's hike, but it's a busy main road with only an intermittent sidewalk. Bike is the ideal way to reach these, Skara Brae, Birsay and Kirkwall, and to potter around Hoy, though for sure the stiff breeze will contrive to be in your face in both directions.
Orkney Cycle Hire is at 54 Dundas St, open daily 8AM-5PM.

## See

* Dr John Rae (1813-1893) is commemorated by a statue at the ferry terminal. He was born at Orphir on Orkney, became a surgeon and joined the Hudson's Bay Company. On the Bay he learned how to live off the land and travel light and fast, unlike the typical ponderous Victorian expedition. He made many arduous explorations of Canada's northeast coast, and was asked to help trace Franklin's lost navy expedition. He learned of its fate from the Inuit and brought back a few items - plus the news that the desperate party had resorted to cannibalism, and for this he was detested by the Victorian establishment. He's buried at St Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwall.
* Pier Arts Centre, 28 Victoria Street KW16 3AA (100 yards south of terminal), ☏ +44 1856 850209, info@pierartscentre.com. M-Sa 10:30AM-5PM. Gallery with permanent collection of work by 20th century artists, mostly modernist and the St Ives school. The centre also hosts temporary exhibits and runs educational and community outreach activities. The building is 18th century and became the home of a merchant of Hudson's Bay Company, whose ships passed this way. Free. (updated Jul 2024)
* Khyber Pass and Puffer's Close are examples of the little alleys that cut off the main street, either down to the shore or up the hill. Login's Well, now protected behind a glass door, was the main source for ships re-filling their fresh water barrels.
* 58.9578-3.30121 Stromness Museum, 52 Alfred Street KW16 3DH, ☏ +44 1856 850025, custodian@stromnessmuseum.co.uk. Apr-Oct M-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-4PM. Covers natural history, sea-going and maritime exploration, and wartime Orkney. Adult £7.50, conc £5, child free. (updated Jul 2024)
* The cannon 100 yards south of the museum was captured from an American privateer in 1813 but was thereafter ceremonial: it was fired to greet Hudson's Bay Company ships coming into harbour. It never managed to hit one.
* 58.9529-3.30772 Ness Battery, Guardhouse Park KW16 3DP, ☏ +44 7759 857298. This artillery position was built in 1915 to guard the entrance to the navy anchorage within Scapa Flow. It was again used during the Second World War and remained in military use until 2001. You can see the exterior free, the interior is by guided tour. Motorists approach via the golf course road, don't follow Satnav onto the coastal footpath. Tour adult £8, conc or child £5. (updated Jul 2024)
* 58.955-3.3273 Warbeth Cemetery has an old and a new plot. The poet George Mackay Brown (1921-1996) lies in the new plot, with a simple sandstone headstone.
* Neolithic sites: see Stenness for Maeshowe, Stones of Stenness, Ring of Brodgar and Skara Brae. See Birsay for the Earl's Palace and Brough.

## Do

       Carve the runes, then be content with silence - epitaph of George Mackay Brown
* Brinkies Brae is the 94 m hill behind town with views towards Hoy.
* The coast path leads south from town to Point of Ness, with its campsite, then turns west past the golf course and the gaunt structure of Ness Battery. Continue to Warbeth Cemetery, from where you can short-cut back to town by the public road.
* Golf: Stromness GC is south, between the Point and Ness Battery. White tees 4808 yards, par 69, visitor round £50. The Island Games in 2025 include a golf tournament here and at Orkney GC.
* Scapa Scuba at the lifeboat house on Dundas St do diving equipment sales, hire and repair, plus air fills. They also do other chandlery and boat equipment but don't have a scuba school. They're open M-Sa 2-6PM, Su 4-6PM.
* Gym & Pool: Stromness Swimming Pool and Fitness Centre is at the north edge of town.
* Orkney Folk Festival is held in May, various venues but mostly in Stromness. The next is probably 22-25 May 2025, tbc.

## Buy

* Co-op Food is on Ferry Rd 400 yards north of the pier. It's open daily 7AM-10PM and has a ATM.
* Stromness Books and Prints (Tam's Book Shop), 1 Graham Place KW16 3BY, ☏ +44 1856 850565. M-Sa noon-6PM. Tiny but much-loved bookshop tucked into the corner with Dundas Street. (updated Jul 2024)

## Eat

* Julia's Cafe, Ferry Rd KW16 3AE (By ferry pier), ☏ +44 1856 850904. Daily 9:30AM-4:30PM. Popular place handy for transport. (updated Jul 2024)
* Adam's Place serves seafood Tu-Su next to Julia's.
* Peedie Chippie is a fish & chips takeaway van, usually parked by the library and serving Sa 5-8PM.
* Pier Bistro is next to the Arts Centre and open M-Sa 9AM-4:30PM
* Stromness Chinese is a takeaway at 63 Victoria St open daily 4-10PM.
* Bayleaf Delicatessen is at 103 Victoria St, open daily 10AM-5:30PM.

## Drink

* Stromness doesn't have stand-alone pubs, head for the hotel bars.

## Sleep

* 58.9628-3.29891 Brown's Hostel, 47 Victoria St KW16 3BS, ☏ +44 1856 850661. Comfy well-run hostel open all year, with private rooms and Harbourlee self-catering house. Single £23 ppn. (updated Jul 2024)
* Ferry Inn, 10 John Street KW16 3AD (by ferry pier), ☏ +44 1856 850280, info@ferryinn.com. Comfy rooms and helpful staff, with bar food. B&B double £180. (updated Jul 2024)
* Stromness Hotel, 15 Victoria St KW16 3AA (near ferry pier), ☏ +44 333 4444 324. It's seen better days. The staff try hard but the place is tatty, and there's no longer a bar. B&B double £160. (updated Jul 2024)
* Royal Hotel, 55 Victoria St KW16 3BS (200 yards south of ferry pier), ☏ +44 1856 850342. Friendly relaxing hotel with 10 rooms en suite. Some noise from the bar. B&B double £220. (updated Jul 2024)
* 58.9527-3.29532 Point of Ness Caravan & Camping Site, Point of Ness KW16 3DW, ☏ +44 1856 850907. Clean spacious Council-run site open April-Sep, on the breezy headland a mile south of town. Caravan £28, small tent £12. (updated Jul 2024)

## Connect

As of July 2024, there is basic mobile coverage from O2 and Three, but no signal from EE and Vodafone.

## Go next

* Stenness 3 miles east has Maeshowe burial chamber, and several standing stones a short way north.
* Kirkwall has several sites and accommodation, and is the hub for all of Orkney.
* Hoy is an easy day trip from Stromness.