# Ürgüp

Ürgüp is a town in Cappadocia in central Turkey, in a landscape of soft volcanic tuff that has eroded into hoodoos or "fairy chimneys", and that has been excavated into cave dwellings. In 2022 the population was 24,600.

## Understand

Ürgüp has been settled since ancient times, but there are scant remains until the 11th century AD, when the Selçuks established it as a trading centre. By the 1880s its population numbered much the same as today; some 15% were Greek Orthodox, who called the town Prokopi, built fine mansions and adorned their churches until they were deported in 1923.
Western and domestic tourism discovered the area in the 1980s, and flocked to its landscape of "fairy chimneys" and cave dwellings, many nowadays converted into hotels.
There isn't a "Tourist Information Centre" - places so named are simply selling tours, which may be what you want.

## Get in

By road from Ankara follow O-21 (toll) then D300 east into Nevşehir, then D302.
Inter-city public transport is usually to Nevşehir, which has buses from Istanbul, Ankara and elsewhere, then you change to a local dolmuş: a swarm of these connect all the small towns of Cappadocia. However Metroturizm have two direct buses a day from Ankara, taking almost four hours via Nevşehir, Göreme and Avanos.
38.630534.91241 Ürgüp bus station is central in town.

## Get around

Sights are spread over a broad area, but most are near main roads with frequent dolmuşes.

## See

* 38.631334.91081 Temenni Hill is the knoll in town centre, riddled with cave dwellings.
* Cumhuriyet Meydanı is the main town square just south of the knoll. Its drab architecture may have you wondering how much we've advanced from cave-dwelling days.
* Dutlu Mosque west side of the square is a 250-year old mansion, with a minaret added after the Greeks were deported in 1923.
* Büyükakten Cave House, Kılıçarslan Sk 22 (on Temenni Hill), ☏ +90 545 342 2851. Daily 11:00-17:00. Restored Ottoman mansion-cum-cave house, now a museum showing how it was occupied in the 1920s. Adult 75 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
* 38.624534.91642 Musalla Mosque on 5th Sk is the largest in town, built in traditional Ottoman style in 2012.
* 38.635334.89083 Three Beauties (Üç Güzeller) are rock formations 2 km west of town along D302 to Nevşehir, looking like outcasts from a TV dating show for giant petrified mushrooms.
* 38.671534.88834 Devrent Valley is 2 km north of Ürgüp along the road to Avanos. This has "fairy chimney" rock formations, with one shaped like a camel. These haven't been carved out into dwellings.
* 38.61134.90225 Pancarlık Valley is a spectacular landscape of rock-carved dwellings, entered via a turnoff for Ortahisar, 2 km south of Ürgüp on the road towards Mustafapaşa. The highlight is the richly-frescoed 11th century Pancarlık Church, 20 TL to enter.
* 38.593834.90526 Coffee Museum, Ürgüp Cd 13, Mustafapaşa, ☏ +90 384 352 1225. Daily 09:30-22:30. The story of coffee, but it's more about the artwork of coffee jars and crockery, with many items for sale. (updated Jul 2024)
* 38.571634.85997 Gomeda Valley is reached by a hiking trail southwest of Mustafapaşa. It's a higgledy-piggledy jumble of outcrops carved into dwellings; Alakara Church is the first you reach.
* 38.464134.96618 Sobesos. Ruins of a Roman city from 4th century AD, with mosaic floors, two chapels and a few other buildings. It was only discovered in 2002 near the village of Şahinefendi and excavations continue. Free. (updated Jul 2024)

## Do

* Hamam, İstiklal Cd 18 (just south of Temenni Hill), ☏ +90 545 419 1970. Daily 10:00-23:30. Traditional Turkish baths. (updated Jul 2024)
* Ballooning: every travel agent in town will try to sell you a balloon ride. These are for 60-90 min early morning or towards sunset when the winds are lightest and shadows cast the rock formations into contrast: see Cappadocia#Do.
* Hiking tours are likewise touted by every travel agent: look in on a few, and trust your instincts. These might be a good choice for outlying valleys where it's better to let the tour jeep suffer the rough track than your rental car, and the guide knows the easiest trails. His attention to your safety is sharpened by his urge to deliver the group into his uncle's kilim shop as quickly as possible.

## Buy

* Stores are clustered south of Castle Hill: Bim, Şok and A101 are the main chains.
* Carpet and kilim stores along the main street are reasonably priced.
* Saturday market is on Ahmet Asım Yolaç Cd, 500 m south of town centre.

## Eat

    Beware stews cooked in a wood-fire in pottery - these may be prepared days in advance then left to fester.
* Cheap eats and patisseries are along Atatürk Blv near the bus station.
* Ürgüp Pide (at bus station), ☏ +90 384 341 8218. Daily 10:00-21:30. Reliable central place for pide, kebabs and all the Turkish standards. (updated Jul 2024)
* Sofra Restaurant, Atatürk Blv 25 (by main square), ☏ +90 384 341 4333. M-Sa 08:00-23:30, Su 10:00-23:00. Good cuisine at reasonable prices. The street is busy with traffic so don't take an outside table. (updated Jul 2024)
* Ziggy Cafe, Ahmet Refik Cd, ☏ +90 384 341 7107. Daily 12:00-23:30. A varied menu and a lovely setting. (updated Jul 2024)
* Prokopi (formerly Dimrit), Tevfik Fikret Cd 40 (byTurasan winery), ☏ +90 384 341 5258. Daily 12:00-00:00. Old house converted into a smart restaurant, with good ambiance and a panoramic terrace. (updated Jul 2024)

## Drink

* Angel Cafe Bar, Cumhuriyet Meydanı, ☏ +90 507 359 0909. Daily 09:00-03:00. Pleasant place for a drink on the main square, but more expensive than other cafes. (updated Jul 2024)
* Wine: Turasan Vineyard has a shop at Tevfik Fikret Cd 6, west side of town, with paid-for tastings; the reds slide down nicely. It's open daily 09:00-19:00.

## Sleep

    For an unforgettable stay pick one of the cave hotels, mostly located northwest in Esbelli district. Some are mansions extended into the hillside, with a mix of masonry and cave rooms. East side of town are conventional modern hotels.
* 38.632934.91121 Ürgüp Inn, Sağır Mescid Sk 22, ☏ +90 532 387 1098. Delightful little cave hotel in town centre. B&B double 2000 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
* 38.629834.90992 Cave Konak Hotel, İstiklal Cd, ☏ +90 384 341 4322. Restored Ottoman building with cave rooms. Friendly, family-run place. B&B double 2500 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
* 38.629334.90793 Sacred House Hotel, Barbaros Hayrettin Sk 25, ☏ +90 384 341 4422. Wonderful arty small hotel. B&B double 5000 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
* 38.633734.90734 Yunak Evleri, Balcı Sk, ☏ +90 384 341 6920, Yunak@smallhgotels.com.tr. Excellent mansion-cum-cave house, high standard of decor and comfort. B&B double 6000 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
* 38.633734.90525 Hotel Surban, Süleyman Efendi Sk, ☏ +90 384 341 4603. Pleasant hotel with a good blend of traditional and modern style. B&B double 2500 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
* Hotel Selcuklu Evi, Süleyman Efendi Sk (next to Hotel Surban), ☏ +90 384 341 7460. Seljuk mansion tastefully restored, with some rooms carved into the cliff. B&B double 4000 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
* 38.634934.90316 Esbelli Evi, Dolay Sk, ☏ +90 384 341 3395, esbelli@esbelli.com. Comfy self-catering cave rooms. (updated Jul 2024)
* 38.635634.90427 Elkep Evi, Esbelli Sk 26, ☏ +90 384 341 6000, info@elkepevi.com.tr. Great value at this small cave house hotel. B&B double 3000 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
* 38.63834.90278 Antik Cave House, Dolay Sk 14, ☏ +90 384 341 4428. Pleasant small hotel set around a stone courtyard, with several rooms in caves. B&B double 1500 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
* 38.632334.91619 Red Horse Hotel, Atatürk Blv 56, ☏ +90 545 550 3777. Friendly spacious hotel. B&B double 1500 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
* 38.634234.924410 Dinler Hotel, Mehmet Dinler Blv 15, ☏ +90 384 341 3030. Under renovation top-down, the newer rooms are clean and spacious, the lower rooms are tatty. B&B double 3000 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
* Mustafa Cappadocia Resort, Mehmet Dinler Cd 20 (between Dinler and Perissia Hotels), ☏ +90 384 341 3970. Mostly good reports for comfort and service. B&B double 4000 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
* 38.634234.930311 Perissia Hotel, Mehmet Dinler Blv 25, ☏ +90 384 341 2930, Info@perissia.com.tr. Big boxy hotel with 350 rooms, and wellness area. Cleaning erratic. The outdoor pool is unheated. (updated Jul 2024)
* 38.545834.870912 Gamirasu Cave Hotel, Ayvali Köyü 101, ☏ +90 384 354 5815, Info@gamirasu.com. Great reviews for this charming quirky cave hotel. B&B double 15,000 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
* 38.640834.908813 Janet Hotel, Ali Baran Numanoglu Blv 155, ☏ +90 384 341 3305. Inexpensive, this would be a decent place if only they cleaned it. (updated Jul 2024)
* Taskin Hotel opposite Janet gets rotten reviews.

## Connect

Ürgüp and its approach roads have 4G from all Turkish carriers. As of July 2024, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.

## Go next

* Göreme is a lively tourist centre, with cave dwellings and "fairy chimneys".
* Avanos and Ortahisar are less-visited nearby towns.
* Uçhisar Castle is a pinnacle riddled by caves.
* Remarkable underground cities were built by 1st-8th century Christians - 40 are known, many more remain to be unearthed. The two best are Kaymakli and Derinkuyu on the highway south from Nevşehir.