# Ulan Ude

Ulan Ude (Russian: Ула́н-Удэ́ oo-LAHN oo-DEH) is the capital of Buryatia, known during Soviet times as the Buryat Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic.

## Understand

Ulan Ude, originally called Udinskoye, is in an area of Russia called Buryatia, named after the nomadic Buryat Mongols that first settled in the area. In the 1650s, as a result of a split in the Russian Orthodox Church, a group of people called the "Old Believers" were forced to flee their homes and escape to Siberia in order to freely practice their religion. The settlement was officially founded in 1666 by Russian Cossacks as a fortress. Due to its location on trade routes between Russia, China and Mongolia, it developed into a prosperous trading town. It grew further when it became a hub for the Trans Siberian Railway in 1900 and the locomotive manufacturing industry dominated the economy. Ulan Ude means "Red Ude", referring to the river Uda, in the local Buryat language. The city was closed to foreigners before 1991.
Buryat Mongols make up over 20% of the population of Ulan Ude, and the Mongolian cultural influence on the city is very noticeable. However, much of the original Buryat culture and religious buildings were destroyed by the Soviets in the 1930s. Shamanism, Buddhism, and Orthodox Christianity are all commonly practiced in Ulan Ude. There are approximately 400,000 inhabitants.
The city is situated at the intersection of the Uda and the Selenga rivers and is between the Khamar-Daban and Ulan-Burgasy mountain ranges. The city is 100 km (62 mi) south of Lake Baikal, along the Uda River. Lake Baikal tourism is very important to the economy of Ulan Ude and the city is tourist-friendly.

### Climate

In summer it may be very hot, and in winter it may be freezing. The months of January to March are the coldest, with the average night temperature reaching as low as -27°C in January (though temperatures well below -50°C have been recorded!). April and May are also cold, but usually it is above freezing. June to August are the most pleasant months with lots of sunshine and temperatures rising to the low 20s. September and October are bracing months, but not yet very cold. November and December again see a return to freezing temperatures of around -10°C to -20°C. Also, the whole of Buryatia, and Ulan-Ude in particular, is considered to be the place where there are the most sunny days during the year, compared to other places in the area.
Humidity is low, so the extreme temperatures don't feel as extreme as they would in humid areas.

## Get in
### By plane

* 51.8075107.43751 $^{[deadlink]}$ Baikal International Airport (UUD аэропорт Байкал) (is 12 km (7.5 mi) west of the city centre), ☏ +7 301 222-79-59. The airport serves approximately 300,000 passengers per year. There are regular flights to many major Russian cities including Moscow (7 hour flight, 14500 руб), Krasnoyarsk, Vladivostok, Blagoveshchensk, Irkutsk, Khabarovsk, and Novosibirsk, as well as international flights to Ulaanbaatar, Beijing, and Seoul. (updated Dec 2021)
Buses #55 and #77 $^{[deadlink]}$ operate between the airport and Ploshchad Sovietov, the location of the giant Lenin head, in the city centre. To reach the airport bus station, walk straight out from the airport and turn left at the crossroad then continue walking for 5-10 minutes. The bus costs 20 руб. Alternatively, taxis should cost 300 руб if negotiated in advance and the journey to the city centre by taxi takes approximately 20 minutes.

### By train

The train station is located in the city centre, a 5 minute walk from the main street, ulitsa Lenina.
    See also: Trans-Siberian Railway
All Trans-Siberian trains stop at Ulan Ude, which is 5,642 km (3,506 mi) from the Moscow commencement point.
Train timetables and fares can be found on the RZD website. There are several daily trains to Moscow (95 hours, 4000-11000 руб), Krasnoyarsk (25 hours, 1600-8400 руб), Irkutsk (8 hours, 750-4000 руб), Novosibirsk (40 hours, 2200-10400 руб), Omsk (50 hours, 2600-7600 руб), Yekaterinburg (63 hours, 3300-9000 руб), Perm (70 hours, 3500-9600 руб), Vladivostok (61 hours, 3300-16000 руб), Ulaanbaatar (22 hours, including a 12-hour scheduled stop at the border), and Beijing (66 hours, once per week).
Ulan-Ude is the first major Russian city on the train journey from Mongolia.

### By bus

The bus station “Selenga” (also known as “Yuzhniy”) is at Korabelnaya st 32, at the end of Sovetskaya st. It is 1.5 km (0.93 mi) from the train station and it can be reached on foot or by marshrutka #30 or #29. There is a baggage storage room open from 8:00AM to 8:00PM. Sometimes it is referred to as the "South Bus Station"; however, the north bus station no longer exists.
Note that many buses/marshruktas, including those to Irkutsk, Lake Baikal, Arshan, and Chita, also stop at or leave from the train station. Buses/marshruktas are generally less comfortable than the train; however they are usually cheaper and faster. Many small towns in Buryatia cannot be reached by train, and bus is the only public transportation option to reach these areas.
* There are daily buses to/from Ulaanbaatar, departing from either city at 7:30AM for the 10-12 hour journey. Tickets can be purchased at travel agency offices for 1100 руб. The bus is much cheaper and faster than the train.
* Minibuses operate a service to the Mongolian border town of Kyakhta. The buses depart every hour from 7:00AM to 7:00PM and the 3-hour journey costs 250 руб. The minibus driver will most probably ask for 50 руб extra for each piece of luggage.
* There are buses/marshrutkas to Lake Baikal (3 hours, 300 руб), Irkutsk (9 hours, 700 руб), Arshan, and Chita, departing from the Ulan-Ude train station. Tickets can be purchased from the driver. The buses usually leave early in the morning, once full.

## Get around
### By foot

The central tourist area of Ulan Ude is compact and is very walkable.

### By taxi

Taxis are plentiful but drivers rarely speak any English.

### By public transportation

There are marshrutkas, buses, and a few tram routes. Trips on public transportation cost less than 30 руб.

## See
### City center

* The World's Largest Lenin Head is in Ploshchad Sovietov, the main city square. The head is 7.7m tall and weighs 42 tons. It was unveiled in 1970 in honor of Lenin's 100th birthday and to remind the local population who was in charge. It is now a common meeting place.
* The merchant's mansions, richly decorated with wood and stone carvings. Historical relics of the town's prosperity as a trading center. The mansions are located along the banks of the Uda River.
* Lenina Street, also called Arbat street. Part of the street is pedestrian-only. It is the main place for meeting, walking, shopping for locals and a good place for people-watching.
* Gostiniye Ryady, the former shopping arcade.
* Revolution Square was the location of bazaars during historical times. There is a victory arch with a two-headed Russian eagle.
* Embankment of Selenga (at Pioner mall, close to main bus station). A good place for people-watching.

### Museums

* 51.8864107.6481 Ethnographic Museum of the People of Transbaikalia Culture, Verhnaya Beriozovka (Take Bus #37 from Baikal Plaza Hotel bus stop, south of Ploshchad Sovietov, same side of the street as the hotel, and tell a driver to stop at MUZEI - 17 руб, 30 minute drive), ☏ +7 3012 33-25-10, +7 3012 44-33-10, emtp@mail.ru. W-Su 10AM-6PM; on Monday, only the small zoo is open; on Tuesday the zoo and one other house are open. An outdoor museum. Old homesteads, including some 17th century Cossack houses, and Buryat wooden yurts have been relocated to the site, and along with reconstructed streets representing traditional Buryati homes. Includes a small zoo. 180 руб.
* 51.8275107.584722 City History Museum / History of Ulan-Ude, Verhnaya Beriozovka (In the city centre), ☏ +7 301 221-25-22. 9AM-6PM. In a house that formerly belonged to a wealthy tea merchant. Includes an exhibition to Pandito Hambo-Lama XII, Dasha-Dorzho Itigelov, leader of the Buddhists of East Siberia between 1911 and 1917.
* 51.831944107.5880563 Museum of Buryatia History, Profsoyuznaya ul., d. 29 (In the city centre), ☏ +7 (3012) 2 21 70. T-Su 10AM-6PM; Closed on Mondays. Rare books, clothing, and artifacts from the region, including those from Shamanism, Buddhist, and Christian religions. The highlight exhibit is a rare illustrated book from the 17th century on Tibetan medicine.
* 51.83083107.584444 Museum of Buryatia Nature, Lenina Str., 46 (In the city centre), ☏ +7 (3012) 2 48 33. T-Su 10AM-6PM; Closed on Mondays. Includes exhibits on the animals, botany, and geology of the area.
* 51.82542107.589615 Sampilov Museum of Fine Arts, Kuibysheva ul., d. 29 (In the city centre), ☏ +7 (3012) 2 29 09. T-Su 10AM-6PM; Closed on Mondays. Also known as the East-Siberian Hermitage, this museum contains over 7,000 pieces of fine art from the Buryatia region.
* Geological Museum, Lenina Str., 59 (In the city centre), ☏ +7 (3012) 2 29 09. M-F: 11:00AM-4:30PM; Sa-Su: Closed. Features the largest collection of minerals, rocks, gems, and stones from the Lake Baikal region.

### Religious buildings

* Odigitrievsky Cathedral (at the beginning of Lenin street, near river Uda). Built in 1741 in honor of the Madonna of the Odigitria. The first stone building in the town.
* Rinpoche Bagsha, Buddhist Center, Streletskaya st., 1. (Take bus #97 from Baikal Plaza hotel at Lenin's head square to the last stop). A new nice lama temple with a scenic panoramic view of the whole city. The temple should be explored for about an hour. It can be quite windy up there, so don't forget to dress warm.
* 51.759101107.2032386 Ivolginsky Datsan Buddhist Monastery, near Verkhnyaya Ivolga village (23 km (14 mi) from the city (take Bus #130 from a bus stop just north of the bus station to Ivolginsk village- 40 minute ride, 40 руб. Get off at the last stop and take a marshrutka to the Monastery - 10 minute ride, 20 руб)), ☏ +7 301 402-33-77. This is the centre of Buddhism in Russia. Although the Dalai Lama has visited several times, many tourists find the temple to be kitsch. Near of the datsan you can buy souvenirs cheaper than in the centre. It is 23 km (14 mi) outside of Ulan Ude; Buses no 130 leave from South Bus Station (Yuzhniy avtovokzal) on a regular basis, one after another. It will bring you to Ivolginsk, there is another bus or shared taxi waiting, it just says "ДАЦАН" (DATSAN) on it. It will bring you to the monastery. Expect to pay around 60 руб each way (40 + 20). It takes 40-60 minutes one way
* Bolshoi Kunalei. A nearby village where the Old Believers, called "Semeiskiye", live. They will sing songs for visitors and you will be treated to homemade wine.

## Do

* Buryat State Academic Opera and Ballet Theater, Lenina St., 51 (At Lenin's head square), ☏ +7 (3012) 21 36 00, uuopera@mail.ru. Beautiful building. Watch performances of Buryat singing and dancing. 150-700 руб.
* Puppet Theatre Ulger, Lenina street 46, ☏ +7 3012 213764. 9am -6pm from Monday to Friday. The name of the “Ulger” theatre is translated as “legend”. The theatre was built in 1967 and caters to kids. Features 40 local plays, including several in the Buryat language. The performers have toured worldwide and have won several international awards.

## Buy

Cedar oil (Кедровое масло) and other cedar products are a specialty of this region. Small Buddha statues are a common souvenir and are said to bring good luck. Mongolian socks, muttons, hats etc. out of camel wool can serve as a gift too.

## Eat

Try local buryat cuisine. Mainly it's steamed meat dumplings called "Buuza" (or "Pozy"), fried "Sharbin", or "Khushuur". Soups include meat broth "Bukhlyor" and noodles "Shuleen". Sweet baked goods served with jam or condensed milk are called "boovy".
The fish "omul" is unique for the region, as it exists only in the Baikal lake.

### Local cuisine

* Appetite Lenin's head looks at it. Quite cheap, tray style, Russian food, free WiFi.
* "Museum" cafe, Lenina str, 46; on a way from Lenin's head to Arbat street (11.30-19.00). 150 r/meal
* "Baatar orgoo" YURT GER cafe, Verhnaya Beryozovka, Dokuchaeva str.11. Only minibus 37 goes there. You can take it from Baikal Plaza hotel bus stop, tell a driver to stop at "KAFE YURTA". Takes about 20-30 minutes drive. Only traditional food and very nice atmosphere. 500-700 r/meal
* "Buuza" cafe/bar, Communist str. 41a; on tram tracks, near hotel Siberia, 3 mins from Lenin's head
* "Tenghis" restaurant , Yerbanova str. 12; Inside Baikal Plaza hotel
* "Student snacks" cafe/bar, Razhurova str. 1; just behind Opera house
* Marusia Lenina st., 46; Russian cuisine
* Ulger Restaurant & Cafe, Kirova str., 8, ☏ +7 2012 21-21-09. A restaurant with traditional Russian and Buryatian food. A nice terrace outside.. 7$ for full dinner;.
* Zolotoy Drakon, Lenina St., 46, ☏ +7 2012 21-80-66. 11.00 to 22.00. Chinese restaurant 5-10$;.
* Churchill pub&grill, Lenina St.. On Lenin street opposite the Lenin's head. A restaurant in European style, with various meats prepared mostly on a grill. Price around 300-500 руб. Probably one of the nicest/most expensive restaurants in town with staff speaking English. 10-20$;.

### Supermarkets

Food can be bought in shops; look for the signs with "магазин" ("Magazine", literally: store).
* Sputnik, ul. Kommunisticheskaya 48 (at the intersection of Yerbanova and Kommunisticheskaya, near Baikal Plaza hotel), ☏ +7 (3012) 2 29 09. 24 hours per day. Good selection of prepared foods, including vegetarian options.
* Titan Supermarket
* Slavyanskiy bazar on Smolina street near intersection with Sovyetskaya street.
* Absolut Supermarket

## Drink

The local Baikalpharm brand of vodka is very popular and a bottle makes a great souvenir.

### Cafes

* Dacha Lenin's head looks at it. Great place!
* Marco Polo Kommunisticheskaya st., 46; coffee house, breakfast, salads
* Safari Erbanova st., 20; coffee house
* Shokolad Karl-Marks blvrd, 11; top recommended coffee house. It's located just opposite the new Russian drama theater which is about 15 minutes by tram. Nice location, nice coffee

## Sleep

Most hotels and hostels offer free WiFi and many have computer terminals. Almost all accept credit cards. Hotels and hostels will usually provide a visa invitation and registration for an additional fee.

### Budget

* Dostoevsky Hostel, Borsoeva st., 33 (In the city centre; 10 minute walk from the train station), ☏ +7 (983) 531-75-29, uu@hdhostel.com. Nice hostel. 6-bed dorm: 450 руб; 4-bed dorm: 600 руб; Double: 1200 руб.
* Ulan Ude Travellers House AKA UUhostel, Lenin str, #63; Apartment 18 (In the city centre; at the Lenin Head Statue; look for a 4-floor yellow building with a big sign 'S7 airlines' on the top. Right entrance, a black door right to S7 airlines office. Press 18 and B on terminal and wait for the door to open), ☏ +7 902 455-22-22, uuhostel@gmail.com. Friendly staff that can help you book onward travel. 500-650 руб.
* Hostel House, Smolina str 54a, 3rd/last floor, ☏ +7 89025 620-888, HostelHouse@mail.ru. Laundry 100 руб. It's the only apartment there. About 10 minute walk to the city 15 to the South bus station. Room is big and very clean. Look for a glass building right at the corner as you might miss the small sign. 600 руб w/o breakfast.
* $^{[formerlydeadlink]}$ Point Hostel, (Y)Erbanova str. 1-22, ☏ +7 (3012) 211253, +7-9140-588-558 (SMS), centerpointhostel@gmail.com. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. 6bed, 4bed and double bed dorm, for 500-600-700 руб. 15 minutes walk from the train station, 5 minutes from the bus station / Soviet square. Entrance is from the back of the house. Free WiFi and tea/coffee in a kitchen. around 600 руб w/o breakfast.

### Mid-range

* Hotel Baikal Plaza (Байкал Плаза), Erbanova ul., 12 (Near the Lenin head statue), ☏ +7 301 221-08-38, sales@baikalplaza.com. Refurbished, but no elevator and rooms on the 4th floor are 200 руб cheaper. Single: From 3500 руб; Double: From 3800 руб.
* Hotel Buryatia, Kommunisticheskaya ul., 47a. (Near the train station and the Lenin head statue), ☏ +7 3012 214-888, fax: +7 3012 21-15-05, sales@buryatiahotel.com. Check-in: Noon, check-out: Noon. 14 floors. Single: From 2100 руб; Twin: From 2500 руб; Double: From 4000 руб.
* Hotel Geser (Гэсэр, гостинично-туристский комплекс), ul. Ranzhurova, 11 (Near the train station and the Lenin head statue), ☏ +7 301 221-61-51, info@geser-hotel.ru. Red brick hotel surrounded by a garden. Staff speaks English well. Single: From 3300 руб; Twin: From 4300 руб; Double: From 4800 руб.
* Hotel Odon (Гостиничный Комплекс Одон), Gagarin str., 43 (Near the train station), ☏ +7 301 244-34-80. Popular with Chinese businessman; rooms and hygiene standards reflect the low price. Staff is nice and cooperative. 75 rooms. The cheapest rooms do not have access to a shower. Single: 950-1650 руб; Double: 1350-4200 руб.
* Hotel Sagaan Morin, ul. Gagarina, 25 (bus stop "Elevator"), ☏ +7 3012 44-40-19, info@sagaan-morin.ru.

### Splurge
## Stay healthy

* Medical Institute for Mongolian, Buddhist and Tibetan Studies, 6 Sakhyanovoi Street, ☏ +7 8 (3012) 433 551, imbt@imbt.ru. 8:30AM-6:00PM. A good place to receive treatment for both acute and chronic ailments using traditional Tibetan herbal compounds.

## Connect
### Phone

The international code for Russia is +7; the code for Ulan Ude is 301.
For information on purchasing a SIM card in Russia, see Russia#Contact.
Note that SIM cards purchased elsewhere, such as in Moscow or Saint Petersburg, may be subject to roaming charges.

### Internet

Free WiFi is available in most hotels, shopping malls, university buildings, cinemas, restaurants and cafes, and some public areas and parks. There are also plenty of WiFi hotspots for which you must pay. There are internet cafes in the city centre. You can also buy a mobile GPRS card to enable data transfer via the cellular networks. For more information, see Russia#Contact.

## Cope
### Consulates

* Mongolia, Profsoyuznaya street, 6, ☏ +7 3012 21-52-75, fax: +7 (3012) 21-41-88.

## Go next

In addition to continuing on to cities on Trans-Siberian Railway and the Trans-Mongolian Railway, it is worth making a diversion to Lake Baikal, the deepest and oldest lake in the world and, by volume of water, also the largest freshwater body of water. It contains 20% of the world's liquid fresh water and is 2 km (1.2 mi) deep. The lake can be reached by bus.