# Kyle of Lochalsh

Kyle of Lochalsh is a village in Wester Ross in the Scottish Highlands, with a population of 590 in 2020. It is just across the water from Kyleakin on the Isle of Skye and was the traditional route to Skye by ferry. Nowadays the toll-free Skye Bridge carries the A87 across. Kyle has become a bit of a backwater, and doesn't have "sights" or visitor attractions, but is a good base for the countryside around. This includes for Skye, which gets booked solid in July and August.

## Understand

In Gaelic ceolas, pronounced "kyles", means narrows, and between Kyle of Lochalsh and Kyleakin is the narrowest crossing between the mainland and Skye. A ferryboat has plied here at least since 1600, and in the 19th century the railway was built from Inverness to Kyle jetty. By the 20th century, technically it was no great challenge to build a bridge here, but there wasn't enough traffic to justify doing so. But in the 1960s and 70s tourism and other traffic boomed, ferry capacity was strained, and Kyle in summer became a tetchy queue of vehicles. Bridge construction began in 1992 and it was opened in 1995, using the Private Finance Initiative. Tolls were high and deeply unpopular, and protests and refusals to pay mounted; documents later revealed that the PFI operator was charging ten times the bridge's running costs. The Scottish government bought out the operator at the end of 2004 and tolls ceased.
The Skye Bridge is in two stages, the Carrich Viaduct from the mainland to Eilean Bàn ("White Island"), then the main bridge arching over to Kyleakin. There are no plans to build a railway bridge so Kyle remains the terminus.

## Get in

Trains run twice a day from Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh taking 2 hrs 40 min. Their stops include Dingwall, Achnasheen, Stromeferry and Plockton. Buses to Skye connect with these trains.
57.2801-5.71391 Kyle of Lochalsh railway station is mid-town on the former ferry pier. There's a staffed ticket office M-Sa but no machines. The toilets are open during ticket office hours. There is step-free access to the island platform.
Scottish Citylink Bus 915 runs twice a day between Glasgow and Skye. The route north is from Buchanan Station via Glasgow Airport, Dumbarton, Loch Lomond west bank, Crianlarich, Glencoe, Fort William and Invergarry taking six hours to Kyle. The route continues across Skye via Broadford, Sligachan and Portree to Uig, for ferries to Tarbert on Harris and Lochmaddy on North Uist.
Scottish Citylink Bus 917 runs twice a day from Inverness via Loch Ness, taking two hours to Kyle then onward to Portree as above.
Stagecoach Highlands Bus 55 runs three times M-F to Kyleakin and Broadford on Skye, with two continuing to Torrin and Elgol.
Macrae Kintail Bus 712 runs just once in the morning M-F from Corran via Glenelg, Dornie and Kyle of Lochalsh to Plockton. It immediately turns round for the return, so it's no help for day trips.
The ferry at Kyle stopped running when the bridge opened. There's still a regular ferry between Mallaig and Armadale on the south tip of Skye, and a small ferry from Glenelg in summer.

## Get around

Kyle is small enough to get around on foot. You may walk or cycle across the bridge, which has sidewalks both sides. That's a good way to visit Eilean Bàn.
Skye Car Rental (☏ +44 1599 534426), Enterprise and Morar Motors$^{[deadlink]}$ (☏ +44 1687 462118) are based at the railway station.
Kyle Taxi is on Station Rd, tel +44 1599 534323.

## See

* 57.2796-5.73851 Skye Bridge has sidewalks so you can stroll or cycle across. It touches down on Eilean Bàn, where a track leads to the Gavin Maxwell Cottage (now self-catering, sleeps four) and Kyleakin lighthouse, no longer in use. The islet is private property.

## Do

* Boat trips are available in summer from Seaprobe Atlantis and from Red Moon Cruises, both based near the slipway.
* Hikes recommended by Walk Highlands include The Plock of Kyle, Plockton Coral Beach, Loch Scalpaidh and Balmacara.
* Shinty: Kinlochsheil play in Mowi Premiership, the top tier. The playing season is April-Oct.

## Buy

* The Bank of Scotland closes permanently on 27 January 2025, there is an ATM at the Co-op and the Post Office (Station Rd) offers some banking services.
* Co-op Food is on Bridge Road 100 yards west of the railway station; on foot ascend the steps by the traffic lights. It's open daily 7AM-10PM.

## Eat

* Pizza Mia is a takeaway 50 yards west of the station, open M Tu Th noon-8PM, F Sa noon-9PM, Su 2:30-7PM.
* Hector's Bothy, Station Road IV40 8EA (100 yards west of station), ☏ +44 1599 534248. Daily 9AM-4PM. Cafe and bar serving fish & chips and other fast food and snacks. Hectors 2 Go is their takeaway nearby on Main Street. (updated Aug 2024)
* Kyle Chinese Takeaway is on Main St by the railway bridge, open M-Sa 4-10PM, Su 4-9PM.

## Drink

* Pubs: try the hotels.
* Skye Bridge Distillery just west of the station makes gin and vodka.

## Sleep

* Skye Bridge Hotel, 1 Station Road IV40 8AE (by railway station), ☏ +44 1599 534408. A bit tatty, reasonable for what you pay. B&B double £160. (updated Aug 2024)
* Kyle Hotel, Main Street IV40 8AB (200 yards north of railway station), ☏ +44 1599 534204. B&B with clean spacious rooms. B&B double £90. (updated Aug 2024)
* 57.2801-5.71781 Lochalsh Hotel, Ferry Road IV40 8AF, ☏ +44 1599 534202, mdmacrae@lochalsh-hotel.co.uk. Small 3-star, undergoing refurbishment not a day too soon. B&B double £250. (updated Aug 2024)
* Rock View is a B&B at the junction of Main St and Church Rd, tel +44 1599 534343.
* 57.2836-5.71592 Ardenlea, Church Rd IV40 8DD, ☏ +44 1599 534630. Clean welcoming guest house. B&B double £250. (updated Aug 2024)
* 57.2834-5.71373 Piper's Lodge, Main St IV40 8BY, ☏ +44 1599 534000. Friendly B&B with 7 rooms. (updated Aug 2024)
* 57.2858-5.71794 Heather Brae, 18 Wemyss Place IV40 8DE, ☏ +44 1599 534892. Pleasant B&B north edge of town. B&B double £100. (updated Aug 2024)

## Connect

As of August 2024, Kyle and its approach roads have 4G from all UK carriers. 5G has not reached this area.

## Go next

* Plockton is an attractive loch-side village a few miles north by train or car.
* A87 the main road to Inverness passes Eilean Donan Castle in Dornie, a classic photo-stop.
* Take the bridge to Skye.