# Side

Side (pronounced see-deh) is a resort town in Pamphylia on the Mediterranean coast of Turkey, with a population of 11,000 in 2014. The town itself is compact, but in tourist literature "Side" includes a swathe of beach hotels stretching for 20 km on either side. Its big attraction is the Roman city of Side, sandwiched between the harbour and the modern residential districts.

## Understand

No, nobody else understands it either. The ancient language of Side was used from the 5th century BC; it had 25 characters, was written right to left, and presumably resembled other Luwi proto-Anatolian languages. The sound of some 16 of those characters is now known, but the only word deciphered (apart from a couple of Greek loan-words) means "cicada", without which no East Med afternoon is complete.
The town became Hellenistic after it fell to Alexander the Great in 333 BC. Its crag dividing a long exposed beach was not particularly defensible but did offer a harbour. From 67 BC the Romans took over and built up the city that is now Side's chief attraction, with a magnificent amphitheatre. Its ships put the local pirates to flight, the better themselves to practice piracy and trade in slaves. The place fell victim to raids and declined from the 4th century AD. It was abandoned in the 10th century (apart from a brief revival in the 12th), with the populace moving to Attalia, the present-day Antalya.
Not much happened for the next thousand years, as the Seljuks then the Ottomans came to rule. This meant that the tiny settlement never spread far inland from the harbour, so the ruins of the Roman city were not built over or stripped of their stone. Turkish Cypriots relocating here renamed the town Selimiye, but it reverted to Side once tourism developed from the 1950s.

## Get in

For long-distance travel see Manavgat, which is on the coast highway D400.
36.779131.42621 Manavgat Otogar is just off D400 west of that city, so it's a short ride by bus, dolmuş or taxi to Side. Buses to Istanbul, Izmir, Konya or Denizli do start here.
36.7800131.458682 Manavgat Dolmus Otogar is east of Manavgat town centre. Buses to Antalya do start here.
36.771931.39643 Side Otogarı is the resort bus station, at the edge of the archaeological zone. Smart idea to build it outside the narrow city gate, and tour buses and private cars also park in the vicinity rather than thread the old town alleys.

## Get around

Walk: from the bus station to the main antiquities and old town is only 2 km. With your own vehicle, park near the station and don't get tangled in the alleys.
Dolmuşes connect the two beach strips to town centre. Squeeze in tight, as the name means.
Taxis are best booked through your accommodation.

## See

* The Roman aqueduct is visible 50 m south of the bus station. It was built circa 150-200 AD and is 30 km long, with many bridges and tunnels as the altitude fall from the source is only a metre per km, and it needed to take the shortest course possible to maintain the flow to the city.
* 36.771331.39481 Nymphaeum is an elaborate fountain 100 m southwest of the bus station, fed like everything else by the aqueduct. This is the start of Liman Cd, the main street into town. Just north is a Necropolis, and just south is the scrappy remains of the city gate set within the ancient walls. It was here, not at the better known "monumental gate", that you entered the city.
* A colonnaded street leads south from the city gate to disappear into a jumble of overgrown ruins. The most prominent structure is a Byzantine 6th century block, thought to be a hospital. Bishop's Palace 200 m southeast of it is a larger complex but buried deeper in the undergrowth. Liman Cd continues at an angle to overlie another ancient street lined with pillars.
* The Roman monumental gate is still in use by vehicles, a bottleneck on Liman Cd. There was probably originally a "quadriga" on top, a four-horse chariot like that on Brandenburg Gate in Berlin. Vespasian Fountain is an ornate niche south flank of the gate, and the museum is north flank.
* Side Museum, Liman Cd (by Gate), ☏ +90 242 753 1006. Daily 08:30-19:30. This exhibits artifacts found on the site and is built within a 5th century bathhouse. (updated Aug 2023)
* 36.76831.39072 Amphitheatre, Liman Cd 2, ☏ +90 242 753 1542. Daily 08:00-20:00. This huge arena, with 15,000 seats, is still used for events. A temple to Dionysius is on its north flank. Adult 300 TL. (updated Aug 2023)
* Agora the market square is just east of the amphitheatre - you may find it fenced off. Amongst other commodities, slaves were sold here. In the northwest corner is a 24-seater public latrine.
* 36.767131.39253 State Agora (in Turkish Devlet Agorası) is so-called because it was a public space but not a market. The remains here are scanty, the most substantial is the Library just east.
* Harbour Baths from 2nd century AD are a ruin on Sambak Sk, with an Ottoman hamam alongside.
* Selimiye Mosque is a small brightly-decorated mosque next to Harbour Baths.
* 36.764331.38664 Temple of Apollo, built in 150 AD, is iconic of Side. Several columns were re-erected in the 1980s and it's an attractive place to stroll early evening. Adjacent are the ruined Temple of Athena and a Byzantine basilica.
* 36.781131.39845 Fatih Mosque is on Cemal Gürsel Blv, corner of 1007th Sk. It's in traditional style with a pillared interior reminiscent of Cordoba.

## Do

* Scuba diving centres are Scuba Side, Side Diving Center$^{[deadlink]}$, Side Azura and Deniz Feneri$^{[deadlink]}$. It's a good area for beginners and novices, but the Med has limited marine life.
* Aquajoy is a pirate-themed water-park to the east near Otium Eco Club. Many families enjoy it but you have to hold your nose, and even the pirates wouldn't use these toilets.
* Football: Sidespor have tumbled down the rankings and now play soccer in the amateur leagues. They play at Atatürk Stadium (capacity 1000) 500 m east of the bus station.

## Buy

* Dağ Süpermarket northwest of the bus station is a notorious tourist trap.
* Erdem another 200 m west at Sarmaşık Sk 24 is much better for selection and price. It's open 07:00-03:30. Other stores are mostly out in the residential districts inland.
* Street stalls are more tourist traps, prices are silly even if you haggle them down.
* Saturday market is held 09:00-12:00 opposite Fatih Mosque. It's overpriced tat.

## Eat

* Harbour and old town area have over a dozen. Elia has the best views.

## Drink

* Old town has Cafe Easy Rider, Sapphire, Royal Castle$^{[deadlink]}$, Karma and Azumare.
* Beach strip cafes mostly serve alcohol.

## Sleep
### Central

* Old town streets south of the amphitheatre have dozens of cheap but acceptable guest-houses and hotels.
* 36.777931.39141 Side Star Beach, 612th Sk, ☏ +90 242 212 1632. Comfy mid-price place. (updated Aug 2023)
* 36.779831.3922 Raga Side Hotel, Özal Cd 21, ☏ +90 242 753 2020. Clean friendly place, some noise from a/c and nearby bars. B&B double 3000 TL. (updated Aug 2023)
* Side Star Park, Özal Cd (100 m south of Raga), ☏ +90 242 212 1632. Relaxing central hotel. (updated Aug 2023)
* 36.78231.38843 Acanthus & Cennet Barut, Özal Cd 35, ☏ +90 444 9600. Great comfort and service here. B&B double 10,000 TL. (updated Aug 2023)
* 36.785731.38524 Side Star Elegance, Süleyman Demirel Blv 3, ☏ +90 242 753 1830. Great reviews all round. B&B double 7000 TL. (updated Aug 2023)
* Barut Hemara, Süleyman Demirel Blv 1 (200 m east of Arum Barut), ☏ +90 444 9600. Efficient family-friendly hotel. B&B double 6000 TL. (updated Aug 2023)
* 36.789531.37685 Arum Barut Collection, 651st Sk 6, ☏ +90 444 9600. Rave reviews for this upscale hotel. B&B double 7000 TL. (updated Aug 2023)
* 36.789531.39116 Lemas Suite, 1106th Sk 6, ☏ +90 242 753 6522. Good value small hotel 1 km from beach. B&B double 1000 TL. (updated Aug 2023)
* 36.774431.47 Side Resort Hotel, Adnan Menderes Blv, ☏ +90 242 753 6260. Good all-round inexpensive hotel. B&B double 2000 TL. (updated Aug 2023)
* 36.768731.40558 Barut Sunwing Side Beach, Adnan Menderes Blv, Sorgun, ☏ +90 444 9600. Family friendly hotel 1 km from town. (updated Aug 2023)

### West

* 36.798631.37029 Kirman Calyptus Resort, Kumköy Cd, ☏ +90 242 743 0743. Very good scores for comfort, service and facilities. (updated Aug 2023)
* 36.804131.353410 Miramare Queen Hotel, 277th Sk 3, Ilıca, ☏ +90 242 756 1122. Friendly efficient hotel with lots of entertainment. B&B double 4000 TL. (updated Aug 2023)
* 36.808631.343511 Barut B Suites, Turizm Yolu, 24th Sk 4, ☏ +90 444 9600. Clean friendly value-for-money hotel. B&B double 1500 TL. (updated Aug 2023)
* 36.815331.323112 Arcanus Trendline Resort, Erhan Demir Blv, Çolaklı, ☏ +90 242 642 0310. New in 2023, this is a resort hotel 500 m from the beach. B&B double 3500 TL. (updated Aug 2023)
* 36.817531.324613 Can Garden Resort, Turizm Cd 11, ☏ +90 242 763 8676. Comfy enough, mixed reviews for service and dining. (updated Aug 2023)
* 36.821431.284214 Side Star Resort, Fesleğenli Cd 11/A, ☏ +90 242 212 1632. Smart family-friendly hotel. It's west end of the beach strip 10 km from town but with a good dolmuş service. B&B double 3000 TL. (updated Aug 2023)
* Terrace Elite Resort, Turizm Cd, 31st Sk (200 m north of Side Star), ☏ +90 242 524 5994. Relaxing hotel west end of the beach strip. Staff have next-to-no English or German. B&B double 3000 TL. (updated Aug 2023)

### East

* 36.758731.419815 Voyage Sorgun, Titreyengöl, ☏ +90 242 756 9300. Great reviews for comfort, service and dining. (updated Aug 2023)
* 36.757331.421516 Arcanus Beach Resort, Acısu Cd 8, Sorgun, ☏ +90 242 642 0310. Spacious comfy resort hotel. B&B double 4000 TL. (updated Aug 2023)
* 36.757631.452117 Otium Eco Club, Titreyengöl, ☏ +90 242 756 9590. Inexpensive child-friendly resort, some facilities worn. B&B double 2500 TL. (updated Aug 2023)
* 36.754531.448318 Seven Seas Hotel Blue, Titreyengöl Cd 12, ☏ +90 242 756 9000. Great reviews all round for this smart child-friendly hotel. B&B double 4000 TL. (updated Aug 2023)
* 36.724831.533519 Starlight Resort, Kızılağaç, ☏ +90 242 748 8000. Decent beach hotel, food a bit samey. B&B double 3500 TL. (updated Aug 2023)
* 36.715931.55920 Club Calimera Serra, Otel Serra Place, Kızılot, ☏ +90 242 748 3300. Good value beach hotel on east beach strip. (updated Aug 2023)
* 36.69531.590721 Flora Garden Beach, Sahil Sk 52/2, Çavuşköy, ☏ +90 242 505 5151. Adults-only beach resort, 20 km east of town. Slick and comfy, no male-male couples accepted. (updated Aug 2023)

## Connect

Side, Manavgat and the coastal strip have 4G from all Turkish carriers. As of July 2023, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.

## Go next

* Manavgat a few km inland is modern, but the waterfalls are worth a visit.
* Alanya is a big resort east, with a citadel and castle perched on a crag.
* Antalya is modern but has museums and antiquities.