# The tourist's guide to Lucknow (1899)/Chapter 5

CHAPTER V.
INTRODUCTION TO THE RESIDENCY.
The heroic defence of the Residency during the pro longed investment of the place by the rebels, forms an episode in Indian History as being connected with the memorable sepoy rebellion of 1857-58. It, therefore. possesses a peculiar interest to tourists and others who are attracted thither from all parts of the globe; and persons of every nationality may be seen walking through the extensive grounds of the place in contemplation of the ruins around where a death-like stillness pervades.
On entering the Baillie Guard Gate the mind of the visitor is filled with strange emotions, and this feeling is intensified when standing beneath the battered walls—silent witnesses of the fierce conflict that raged there as already narrated.
Grateful at the deliverance of the beleaguered garrison from their perilous position, in which the finger of God is manifest, and proud of the victory achieved by the British, which was a triumph of Christianity over Heathenism, the visit is sorrowfully brought to a close at the thought of the illustrious dead who sank to rest within its sacred precincts: of brave fathers and sons; of heroic women and dear children who found an early grave amidst the ruined grandeur Where they fell, and over which they shed a holy radiance.
Many will be affected reflecting on the sufferings, both in mind and body, which they endured before their dissolution, but the Christian will find comfort in the knowledge that death to them meant eternal life, and that their spirits have fled beyond the turmoil of war to that blest abode above, to which they were translated by blessed Faith and Hope in the Redeemer.
At length "Sir Colin" — destin'd to command, Brought timely succour, to the gallant band. Who five long mouths hemm'd in on every side, Yet still undaunted, battled with the tide! The storm's now passed, behold'tis calm again, No adverse Armies battle on the plain! No more is heard the iron tramp of War, Or belching cannon thund'ring from afar! But Art and Science, Peace and Joy are here, While sweet soft music falls upon the ear! K. M. Nicholson.
GUIDE TO THE RESIDENCY.
A. — RESIDENCY.
This was originally an imposing edifice, along the west side of which extended a wide and lofty colonnaded verandah. The main entrance was, on the east side, under a handsome portico, which, at the beginning of the siege, was barricaded with boxes filled with earth, but the building was ill-adapted for purposes of defence, as it contained numberless lofty windows which could not be effectually barricaded, and the roof was only protected by an open balustrade. On the south turret was erected a semaphore for telegraphic communication with Machhi Bawan Fort, and subsequently with the Commander-in-Chief at Alambagh.
In the open space between the water-gate and hospital, the line of defence (indicated by the dotted line on the plan of the Intrenched Position) ran along the irregular ridge of the high level, which was protected by a ditch and low bank of earth made breast-high by the addition of sand-bags. These served as a protection to our men, who were enabled to fire, with comparative safety, through the interstices. Within this space three guns were placed, viz, a 9-pounder, an 18-pounder, and a 24-pounder howitzer, at the back of which, in the open space in front of the Residency, were planted two 8-inch mortars, pointing in the direction of the city.
The Residency grounds had been most tastefully laid out in parterres and contained the choicest flowers and shrubs, but in a short time one could hardly recognize the place, which was suddenly transformed into an arsenal, piles of shot and shell having taken the place of flowers and shrubs which were everywhere trodden down, and of which there was soon not a vestige left.
The ground floor of the Residency was occupied by soldiers of H. M.’s 32nd Regiment, under the command of Captain Low, of the same corps; the rest of the building was completely filled by ladies and children. "Besides having a ground floor and two upper stories it had a tykhana, or underground rooms, which, from its immunity from shot and shell, was occupied by the women and children of the 32nd. It was built to shelter the Resident of the King's court, during the summer, from the extreme heat of the day."
Note. — In the Lucknow Museum there is a model, by the Rev. T. Moore, formerly (1871-74) Civil Chaplain of Lucknow, of the Intrenched Position, a copy of which is kept in the Residency for the information of visitors. It is constructed on a scale of 20 superficial feet to the inch, and, in perpendicular measurement, the scale is 5 feet (for ground only) to the inch.
​In the upper room, on the east side, above the tykhana, Miss Palmer, the daughter of Colonel Palmer, 48th N. L, was wounded in the leg, on 1st July, by a round shot, which caused her death. On the second story, at the east angle of the main building, on the following day, Sir Henry Lawrence was mortally wounded, and died on the 4th, in Dr. Fayrer's house. No sooner had the siege commenced, than the exposed position of the Residency (in front of which treasure to the amount of twenty-three lacs of rupees (£230,000) was buried) began to be severely felt, and the ladies and children abandoned the upper stories. The Mess of the 32nd kept possession of a centre room, on the first ﬂoor, until several casualties occurred, when they, too, were obliged to abandon it.
About the 8th August a 24-pound shot entered the centre room of the building and wounded Ensign Studdy of the 32nd, in the arm, from the effects of which he died; and, on the 11th of the same month, a gust of wind struck the north-east wing, part of which fell, burying six men of the same corps. On the 24th August, the entire length of the verandah along two stories on the west side fell, and buried seven of the 32nd men. On this date Mr. Ramsay, Assistant in charge of the Telegraph, was shot, and died instantly. The death rate, for many days, averaged 20. By the end of July 170 casualties had occurred in the 32nd only.
On the arrival of Sir Colin Campbell's army on the 17th November, orders were received to prepare for leaving. The women, children, and the sick were ordered to the Dilkusha encampment, but the men were obliged to stay behind for several days to guard the various posts. Only a certain amount of baggage was allowed to each person, and many valuable things were left behind. Such a scene as the Residency then presented was really sad to behold. Women's apparel, children's clothes, rich dresses, men's clothes, and all kinds of cooking utensils and plated-ware, bedding, &c., were left behind. The guns were removed from most of the batteries, and other guns, formerly the property of the King of Oudh, were burst. The ordnance stores and treasure, and State prisoners, were removed at the same time. Many delicate ladies had to walk six miles, over very rough ground, exposed at one place (between the Moti Mahal and Shah Najaf) to the fire of the enemy. By a General Order, dated 23rd November, the Commander-in-Chief describes this movement of retreat, by which the final rescue of the garrison was effected, as a model of discipline and exactness. The enemy was completely deceived, the force retiring by a narrow, tortuous lane without molestation.
​In such a way was the evacuation of the Residency of Lucknow effected, after enduring a close siege of 87 days, during which the enemy were always within pistol-shot; a further period of 60 days elapsed after the arrival of Generals Havelock and Outram, when the enemy were driven back on two sides of the position. In all 147 days of siege without parallel in history. "The story of Cawnpore is, alas! more tragical; but for the great qualities of the heroic and the enduring, Lucknow may well challenge human history to furnish a higher example, especially when we remember the number of women Who were here shut up, and how nobly they bore themselves amid risk and sufferings which only Christian women of our Anglo-Saxon race could bear to the bitter end, and yet emerge from them all in moral triumph."
B.—BANQUETING-HALL.
(General Hospital.)
This building was the banqueting-hall for the British Resident at the King of Oudh's Court; but from the commencement of the siege it was converted into a hospital. It was two-storied, with very large and lofty rooms on the upper storey: it stands on the same level with the Residency, and, having numerous large doors and windows, suffered much from the enemy's bullets and shot: the openings on the exposed sides (east and south) were closed, and protected with tents and other materials.
On the 8th July the Reverend Mr. Polehampton was severely wounded, in one of the rooms on the south side, by a rifle ball fired from Johannes' house, by "Bob the Nailer," a nickname for the African Rifleman, who shot many a man in the early days of the siege, and who was stopped in his career by a mine begun from La Martiniere post, and passing under Johannes' house, blew up the latter, thus relieving the garrison of a most deadly fire from which we had suffered.(vide para 75).
The north-east line of defence, from the hospital to the Redan, was garrisoned by the 71st and 48th Native Infantry, under command of Captain Strangways and Colonel Palmer, respectively. Fora description of the scenes of suffering which occurred in this building, and the heroism of many delicately nurtured ladies in attending to the wounded and dying, I must refer the reader to Rev. Mr. Polehampton's book and Mrs. Harris' Diary of the Siege of Lucknow.
During the siege the Rev. Father Bernard, R. C. ​Chaplain, occupied the staircase in the east corner of the hospital.
C.—THE TREASURY AND GATEWAY.
Both these posts were garrisoned by the 13th N. I., under the command of Lieutenant Aitken. The treasury is on the right at the entrance into the Residency compound. The long room in the centre of the building served as a laboratory for making Enfield cartridges, which Major North, of the relieving force, made from a mould belonging to Lieutenant Sewell, and a second was found in the garrison. But for this the relieving force would have been virtually disarmed, as far as the Enfield was concerned, and would have had to depend on the miserable Brown Bess, which was the weapon used by the men of the 32nd Regiment during the siege.
As the gateway of the Residency is still standing it need not, therefore, be described. The gates were in good order in Ju1y, 1857; during the siege they were banked up from the inside with earth. The road, leading from the Residency, through the gateway, to the public highway, is, throughout, a steep descent. Three field pieces (two 9-pounders and a 24-pound howitzer) were put in position on this road, and completely commanded the ascent from the gateway. On the 2nd July the enemy made an attack on the position, but was repulsed; Lieutenant Graham received a bayonet-wound in the groin from one of the assailants, who was bold enough to advance to the very walls.
On the 20th August an attempt was made to destroy the gates by fire, but the flames were extinguished without causing injury (vide para 74). The enemy commenced a mine against this position from buildings opposite to the gateway, compelling Lieutenant Aitken to commence a countermine, but the enemy's mine was destroyed by a heavy fall of rain. The position of Aitken's 18-pounder gun rendered the Clock Tower untenable by the enemy. A mosque close to it, which afforded shelter to two of the enemy's guns, was destroyed by Aitken. A gelling musketry fire from the Naubat Khana made the south-east corner of this position almost untenable, and far from comfortable.
On the 25th September, Generals Outram and Havelock entered through the embrasure of Aitken's battery (vide para. 92). On the afternoon of the 27th a sortie was was made on the buildings, which afterwards formed ​part of Lockhart's post (78th Highlanders), directed against a battery of the enemy known as Phillips' garden battery (opposed to our south-east angle ), with the object of capturing their guns. In consequence of the paucity of men sent, not exceeding 120, the party were unable to accomplish their object, and were obliged to return after spiking two guns.
The guard-house (since demolished ) was built in a crescent shape outside the gate, and, not being within the line of defences, afforded shelter to the enemy in their attacks on Aitken's, Fayrer's and the Financial posts. On the 28th September, Lieutenant Alexander, one of the few surviving Artillery Officers, while walking on the road outside the Baillie Guard Gate, was killed by a round shot.
D.—DR. FAYRER'S HOUSE.
Is described as a very extensive lower-roomed building with a flat roof, protected by sand-bags all round, behind which the inmates were enabled to keep up a fire upon the enemy. There was also a large tykhana beneath, which served as a shelter for the ladies.
This post was defended by a party of sepoy pensioners, under the command of Captain Weston, Superintendent of the Military Police. It was commanded by the Clock Tower, and was much exposed to the enemy's fire. A 9-pounder, loaded with grape, was placed in front of the building. in a north-easterly direction, to command the Baillie Guard Gate.
It was here that Sir Henry Lawrence breathed his last, on 4th July, after removal from the Residency. Here also Sir James Outram, with his staff, fixed their headquarters on the arrival of Havelock's relieving force.
E.—SAUNDERS’ (FINANCIAL POST).
The road ran below this garrison, which was a large and extensive building of two stories, on low ground, being separated from Dr. Fayrer's house by a lane, across which was erected a barricade. There were two verandahs to the house, both were barricaded with furniture and boxes. It communicated with the Residency through the Post Office (being commanded by two 18-pounders and a 9-pounder at the latter place) and was garrisoned by a party of the 32nd Regiment and Uncovenanted Civilians, under command of Captain Saunders, 41st Native Infantry.
It is described as a most uncomfortable position, both to hold and approach; for the only way of reaching it was by sliding down a steep and slippery descent in the rear of the building, which descent was completely exposed to ​the musketry fire of the enemy. It was still more dangerous to leave the position, as the noise made by the falling bricks, displaced by the departing soldier as he nimbly scrambled up the ascent, attracted the attention of the insurgents, which brought on him a sharp fire.
This was a most important post, and was one of the two great objects of the enemy's third grand attack on the 5th September. Between the 1st and 5th they ran three mines in succession against it, but were foiled in each attempt. During the attack the enemy rushed up to the barricade that ran along the front of the verandah, but were driven back by hand grenades, and by the flanking fire from the Post Ofﬁce. The number of mines that were blown up in front of the Financial Garrison had so broken up the ground as to render this position quite impervious to further attacks of this kind.
F.—SAGO'S HOUSE.
This is described as a small lower-roamed house (the property of Mrs. Sago, a school-mistress) separated by a wall from the Financial out-post. The enclosing wall and compound were abandoned, and the defence confined to the building itself: although higher than the road, yet it stood low and was much exposed. This position was commanded by the two 18-pounders and a 9-pounder at the Post Ofﬁce, and was held until ruined on the 14th August. It was garrisoned by a party of the 32nd Regiment, under command of Lieutenant Clery of the same corps.
On 10th August the enemy sprang a mine against this post, which fortunately broughtdown only a few out-houses, and "two European soldiers who had stood sentinel at one of the out-houses picquets were blown into the air, but both escaped with their lives. One, who fell within the compound, was slightly bruised, and the other was thrown into the middle of the road which separated us from the enemy. He no sooner found himself unhurt, than he got upon his legs, jumped over our wall and made his escape in perfect safety, notwithstanding the shower of bullets that whistled past his ears."
This was one of the principal points of attack on this date. It was begun by the springing of an enemy's mine ​there, which did no practical harm; and the mining was then continued on both sides for three days, till the enemy was blown in and defeated. Finally, a gallery of the enemy's fell in from the heaviness of the rain on the 29th August, and the garrison, early in the following month, completed the needful mines to foil any other such attempts that might be made there.
G.—GERMON'S (JUDICIAL POST).
This post consisted of an extensive upper-roomed house between Anderson's and the Post Office, and was a most important position. It was barricaded on all sides with furniture, &c, and was much exposed to the enemy's fire from the east, also from the turret on Johannes' house on the west: an earth-work and a wall of fascines protected it on the roadside. It was garrisoned by Uncovenanted Civilians (whose families also found shelter here) and the Sikhs of the 13th N. I., commanded by Captain Germon, of the same Regiment.
This post is described as having been almost battered out of the perpendicular, and the walls were so crumbled away, and eaten into by the incessant rain of bullets, that it is hardly too much to say that it was breached by musketry. The enemy's position was just across the road, and they assaulted frequently with great determination. More hand-to-hand conflicts took place here than in any other post in the defences. The enemy commenced an elaborate mine for the destruction of this building, but a counter mine was sunk, from the well still existing, which resulted in the destruction of about 20 of the rebels.
H.—POST OFFICE.
This important position was the head-quarters of the Engineers and Artillery. It commanded the Havalat, Jail, and Mosque to the right, also Clock Tower and out-offices of the Tehri Kothi to the left, besides protecting the Financial outpost and Sago's garrison below. It was defended by a party of the 33nd Regiment, commanded by Captain McCabe of the same corps, who was killed on the 29th of September. Mrs. Kavanagh had the calf of her leg shot away at this post, but survived. Its defence consisted of two 18-pounders and a 9-pounder, pointing in different directions: also two mortars playing on the Cawnpore road.
There was a workshop attached to it for the manufacture of tools and preparation of shells and fuses during the first siege. The wall bounding the south side communicated ​by breaches with the Jail, Native Hospital, Martiniere Post and Cawnpore Battery, as well as the Judicial and Anderson's garrisons. Major Anderson, the Chief Engineer, whose head-quarters were at this place, and from whence he directed all engineering operations, died here, of dysentery on the 11th August, 1857.
I.—ANDERSON'S POST.
This building, situated on the Cawnpore road, was two storied, on high ground, and formed the south-east angle of our position. It was defended by a party of the 32nd Regiment and Uncovenanted Civilians, under the command of Captain Anderson, 25th Native Infantry. It was surrounded by a trench, within which was a stockade bound with interlaced bamboos. This was one of the most exposed outworks in the place, as the enemy, throughout the siege, were only distant forty yards on the left, and from seventy to eighty yards on the front.
It was exposed day and night to the fire of the enemy's heavy guns, and when it is remembered how close these were planted, some idea may be formed as to the effect on the building. Among the foe's heavy ordnance was an 8-inch howitzer. This piece used to throw shells clean through the walls of the house, and right into the room where the Commander and Volunteers slept, eight in number. Later in the siege nine Europeans and at Sergeant of the 32nd joined the little garrison, making in all, with the Commander and a Subaltern Officer, only twenty men! Mr. Capper, of the Civil Service, had a narrow escape in this house, having been buried in the debris of the verandah. Corporal William Oxenham, 32nd Foot, saved the life of Mr. Capper, by extricating him from the ruins of the verandah while exposed to heavy fire.
On the 20th July the enemy advanced to the attack in force, led by a man carrying a green standard, who was shot, and fell into the trench, upon which the remainder lied. On the 10th August another attack was made with identical results. This, from its salient position, was one of the most important and dangerous of the out posts. It was two storied, and had also a tykhana, or subterranean room, from which the defensive mines were he gun. The upper storey was battered to pieces, but was a valuable look-out.
The enemy sprang a mine directed at this post on the 10th August. This immediately led to the construction of a series of countermines, which were eventually united. Through their agency, a mine of the enemy's was detected and destroyed on the 9th September.
J.—CAWNPORE BATTERY.
This battery was commenced in the early part of June, under the directions of Lieutenant J. C. Anderson. It was defended by a party of the 32nd Regiment, under the command of Captain Radcliffe, 7th Light Cavalry. It mounted an 18-pounder facing the Cawnpore Road, a 9-pounder commanding Johannes' house, and another 9-pounder to sweep the road leading towards Golagunj, in front of La Martiniere Post and Brigade Mess.
The platform on which the guns were placed was protected by a stockade and trench leading past Anderson's Post.
The battery was of little use, seeing that the men could not stand by their guns on account of the heavy musketry fire directed at them from the turret of Johannes' house. Many of its defenders were shot daily in their endeavours to keep the enemy out; and even thus it must frequently have been lost, but for the flanking fire kept up from La Martiniere Post, and the rifles of the everwatchful defenders of the Brigade Mess.
At this post were killed, on 9th July, Mr Bryson, of the Volunteer Cavalry; on 19th, Lieutenant Arthur, 7th Light Cavalry: and Lieutenant Lewin, of the Artillery, on the 26th. Captain Radcliffe, the Commander, was severely wounded, on 25th September, from the effects of which he died.
K.—DUPRAT'S HOUSE
Was a lower-storied building, with a verandah, having a sloping room protected by a mud wall pierced for musketry. It overlooked Johannes' wall and contained three large rooms, with a tykhana beneath, having the same number of rooms. There was another tykhana under the verandah. A mud wall, about nine feet high, was constructed leading in a straight line to the wall of the next house, La Martiniere Post, protecting very imperfectly a little yard with a well in the centre.
By the 10th of August this house was nearly reduced to ruins by the incessant fire of the enemy. The verandah first came down, then the outer wall was demolished. In this house were placed the valuable library of Captain Hayes, and other property belonging to Officers, Which was totally destroyed.
In August a large quantity of small picks, phowrahs and tarpaulins were discovered stored on the roof.
L.—THUG JAIL.
Used as a convalescent depot, was a well ventilated, lofty Barrack, divided into four equal sized compartments, with grated doors and spacious out—offices. The Cawnpore Battery was on the south: the Post Office on the east; and the Martiniere Post and Native Hospital on the west.
M.—MARTINIERE POST.
This was a native building belonging to Sah Beharie Lal, a banker. It was a single-storied house, with a good parapet, protecting its flat roof. It was separated from the Brigade Mess by a broad road which was closed by a strong palisade and bank extending along the outside front of the Martiniere Post. The Martiniere building Constantia, being too remote, the boys were moved into the Residency on 13th June, and this building allotted for their quarters. It was defended by a party of the 32nd Regiment—Masters and students of the College under command of Mr. Schilling, Principal of La Martiniere College.
On the 10th August a. mine was sprung by the enemy in front of Johannes' house, which entirely blew down the outer room of the post, destroying also upwards of fifty feet of palisades and defences. The room adjoining, in which were the sick and wounded boys, became thus completely exposed; the outer room, which was providentially unoccupied at the moment, being blown away. The doors connecting the inner room with the room blown up were, however, open, and through these doors the enemy, who swarmed in Johannes' house, could be plainly seen. For some minutes they neither fired, nor made any attempt to advance. so that Mr. Schilling and the boys had time to close the intervening doors securely. The enemy soon after commenced firing, and a private, who had accompanied Brigadier Inglis to the scene of the disaster, was killed by a bullet passing through the door-panels. The rebels soon occupied in force all the surrounding buildings from which they commenced a furious fusilade; they made several attempts to get into the Cawnpore Battery, but a steady musketry fire made them beat a hasty retreat. They managed, however, to get into the cellars of the rooms in which the guard of the 32nd was located and made it very uncomfortable in the courtyard by firing through the grating; and as it was dangerous to step forward to fire upon them, it seemed as if one of the posts was really lost. Captain McCabe, of the 32nd Regiment, however, came to the rescue with a few hand grenades, which ​were dropped into the tykhana, killing three, and the remainder found things so uncomfortable that they vanished, (see paras. 71 and 72).
The garrison then made a breach at one end of the tykhana and so got into the end room, beginning with which they barricaded the whole of the outer doors. From this post the garrison began the mine, which, passing under Johannes' house, blew it up on the 21st August, relieving the besieged garrison of the most deadly musketry fire from which it had suffered.
N.—NATIVE HOSPITAL
This was formerly the bullock-train office. It consisted of a square of low out-offices situated between the Martiniere Post, the Post Ofﬁce, Civil Dispensary, and Convalescent Depot.
O.—KING’S HOSPITAL, or BRIGADE MESS.
This post, commonly known as the King’s Hospital, was garrisoned by Officers, commanded by Colonel Masters, 7th Light Cavalry. It was a lofty double-storied solid masonry structure, particularly in its outside, or south front, where the massive wall rose to a height overtopping all the neighbouring houses. In the rear of the main building were courts called the first and second squares. The body of the building was used by the Officers of the Light Cavalry and Native Infantry as a Mess; hence its name. The two courts were surrounded by lines of low, flat roofed masonry buildings, which afforded accommodation to many families, and which were protected by high walls from the enemy's fire. It was here that Lady Inglis and Lady Couper occupied rooms. On the 7th July Major Francis, 13th N. I., received his death Wound from a round shot while sitting in the upper storey; both his legs were fractured. Major Bruere, of the same corp's, was killed here.
In the beginning of September the outer wall of the building fell, bringing down the rooms of the upper storey. It sustained a vigorous attack on the 20th July, but the rebels were repulsed. On the 10th August a mine was sprung by the enemy in front of the Martiniere Post, which blew down the stockade traversing the lane leading from Johannes' house to the Post Office; a few of the enemy attempted to enter, but were repulsed. On the evacuation of the Residency an officer was left behind: Captain Waterman went to bed in a retired corner of the Brigade Mess and overslept himself. Some time after ​he awoke and found, to his horror, that every one had left, everything was silent and deserted, and he in an open intrenchment with thousands of rebels outside; like a wise man, he took to his heels and ran, never stopping until he came up with the retiring rear-guard (see para. 112.)
P.—SIKH SQUARE.
This post, next to the Brigade Mess. was commanded by Captain Hardinge, Oudh Irregular Infantry, It consisted of two square enclosures, surrounded by rows of low, flat roofed buildings, known as Sikh Square, so designated because they were occupied during the siege by the Sikh Cavalry. At the south-west angle, the native buildings, densely occupied by the enemy, closely adjoined the line of our defence, overlooking the roofs of the buildings, which were protected by sand-bags, and other materials planted for the men to fire from. The squares were separated by a lane from the eastern wall of Gubbins' compound, which was closed; but its best defence was a 24-pounder howitzer placed so as to sweep the street. On the 18th of August the enemy sprung a mine under the outer defences of the left Sikh Square, which blew down an outhouse at the south-west corner, sending Lieutenants Mecham and Soppitt, of the Oudh Irregular Infantry, Captain Orr, of the Military Police, and a drummer, into the air; they providentially escaped with but slight injuries. Six drummers and one sepoy were, however, buried amidst the ruins. A breach having been made in the Sikh Yard Battery of 30 feet in breadth, two 9-pounders were brought to bear on it; the embrasures were made in a wall about fifty yards in rear of the breach, and the guns were always kept loaded with grape. The breach was partially closed With doors and rafters, but any steady driver could have driven a coach and four through it Without much fear of an upset. To watch this open breach was one more addition to the daily increasing work of the gallant garrison of the Brigade Mess.
Q.—BEGUM KOTHI.
This building was previously the property and residence of Mrs. Walters, her elder daughter, and only son. The younger Miss Walters was married to King Nasir-ud-din Haider, under the title of Mukhaddar-i-Uliya, who was paternal aunt to Nawab Medhi Ali Khan, familiarly known as Nawab Munjoo Sahib, who is, at the present time, an Honorary Magistrate and member of the Municipal Board of this City. The elder Miss Walters, known as Begum ​Ashraf-ul-nisa, rendered valuable services to the British Government during the Mutiny in furnishing information to Captain Bruce, Deputy Quarter-Master General, afterwards Inspector General of Police in Oudh, regarding the state of affairs in Lucknow.
A lofty gateway, nearly fronting the road leading to Johannes' house, served as the main entrance. A double range of out-offices formed a square within a square, one side of which consisted of a fine Imambara, used as a place of Mahomedan worship. Some of these buildings contained fine and lofty apartments, which were afterwards made use of by officers, and their families; others were lower roofed outhouses, having very deep foundations, and appearing from the road leading past the Post Office to Dr. Fayrer's to be considerably higher than they really were.
A fineupper-roomed house served as the Commissariat store-room. A mosque which, at the desire of the Begum, was not made use of, was within the Kothi. As the Begum Kothi was supposed to be pretty safe, being in the very centre of our defences, the inmates were required to garrison the bhoosa (chopped straw) enclosure.
Mr. Quieros' house, with the stabling, used as a canteen and liquor store-room, were, together with the main guard house behind, considered as forming part of the Begum Kothi, with which it was connected by a narrow passage.
R.—GRANT’S BASTION.
This was a high, square, flat-roofed building belonging to a native, which was taken possession of by Mr, Gubbins. On it was erected a parapet. Monsieur Duprat was Wounded here through a loop-hole, and died soon afterwards.
It derived its name from Lieutenant Grant, of the Bombay Army, one of the Duriabad refugees, who commanded this post during the greater part of the siege, and who was killed by the bursting of a hand grenade in his hand.
S.—GUBBINS’ BATTERY.
This is described as a half-moon battery, mounting one 9-pounder that commanded the road between Johannes' house leading down to Hill's shop by the Iron Bridge, the Golaganj Bazar, and numerous buildings to the west. The ground from which the bastion had been commenced was about 18 feet below that of the compound, and, when abandoned on account of the Chinhut disaster, the workman about ten feet high. It was constructed by Lieutenant Hutchinson, and was of great solidity.
​The enclosing wall, which was 10 feet thick, was of masonry. It was strengthened by very large upright beams let into the ground, on both sides of the wall, at the distance of five feet apart; these were bound to gether by cross pieces of wood firmly nailed to the uprights. Within the enclosing parapet, earth had been heaped, but the parapet had not attained the height of ten feet all round when it had to be relinquished.
To complete this work a rough palisade was constructed of rafters, doors, &c., outside which the earth was scarped away as much as possible to render the assault difficult. The battery was ultimately raised to the required height, and a 9-pounder, and subsequently an 18-pounder, were mounted on it. The Civilians of the Covenanted Service, who aided in defending this post, were Messrs. M. Ommanney, G. Couper, S. Martin, G. Benson, W. C. Capper, J. B. Thornhill and G. H. Lawrence.
T. — GUBBINS' GARRISON.
This house, which was constructed of solid masonry, consisted of two stories, "built by the King as a concert-room and cock-pit." It stood in a garden of no great extent, which sloped to the south, towards the enclosing wall, where the ground was lower than the level of the lane which divided the compound from the Goindah lines. Three sides of the roof of the building, which were exposed to the city, were barricaded. There were two porticos; the principal one, towards the south, being much exposed, especially from what was called the "Lane Gun." This portico was overshadowed by an immense tree which intercepted many a shot, until ultimately it became quite denuded of branches. The south and west sides of the compound were bounded by out-houses, stables and servants' houses, built of masonry with flat roofs. Along the latter loop-holed parapets were erected. For about one hundred yards on the south front, a low brick wall bounded the compound.
On the 14th of July an attack was made on this post in which Lieutenant Lester was killed by a match-lock ball. Lieutenant Grant and Captain Forbes were also wounded; and, on the 21st, Major Banks, whilst approaching the position (where Gubbins was employed in keeping the lane clear between his post and the Goindah lines), received a bullet through the temple. Dr. Brydon was also wounded here on the 20th July. On the 22nd Mrs. Dorin, who occupied a room on the north side, was killed by a matchlock ball. This post was commanded successively by Captain Forbes, 1st Light Cavalry, ​Captain Hawes, 5th Oudh Irregular Infantary, and Major Apthorp, 41st N. I.; and was defended by a party of the 32nd Regiment, Sepoy pensioners, 48th N. I. and Gubbins' Levies. On the 26th August Lieutenant Webb, of the 32nd, was killed. Captain Fulton, of the Engineers, a most distinguished officer, also fell here.
On the evening of the 2nd September, Lieutenant Birch, 59th N. L, was accidentally shot by one of our own sentries, who mistook him for an enemy. On 20th July an attack was made, chieﬂy on the south side and around the unfinished south-east bastion. The enemy showed in great numbers; some ascended the south-east slope of the bastion (where the wall was incomplete) to the crest of the parapet, and were shot. Avery considerable force made an attack on the 21st, undeterred by their failure of the preceding day, but were compelled to retire. On the 10th August, another attempt was made to scale the south-west bastion, by bringing scaling ladders close to it. The assaulting party were, however, dislodged by hand grenades. The Goindah lines were destroyed on the 22nd July by a sortie under Colonel Inglis.
U.—OMMANNEY'S HOUSE.
This edifice was capacious and double-storied, and was occupied by Mr. Ommanney, the Judicial Commissioner, who was killed by a cannon shot in the Redan on the 5th of July. After the death of Sir Henry Lawrence, Brigadier Inglis established his head-quarters here. The building was protected by a deep ditch and hedge of cactus, and fortified by two guns, intended to sweep the road between Gubbins' post and the Sikh square, in the event of the former falling into the hands of the enemy. General Havelock, and such of his staff as were not wounded, took up their abode in this house. From this he used to walk, every morning, round all the posts of the place, embracing a distance of more than two miles. It was this incessant strain, on an already overstrained body, which produced the dysentery to which he succumbed, at Dilkusha, on the 24th of November.
V.—SLAUGHTER-HOUSE POST.
This was used by the Commissariat Department for the slaughtering of animals (battery bullocks) for the use of the garrison, also for the custody of cattle and bhoosa, or chopped straw. These buildings were originally the out-houses, cook-rooms, stabling, &c., of the Residency; and Were entered through a gateway called the Ghurrie ​Durwaza. At the angle stood the racquet court, filled with bhoosa, which, in the rains, became so saturated that it pushed down the walls, crushing a score, or so, of much valued cattle on which the garrison depended for fresh meat.
W.—SHEEP-HOUSE.
This row of out-houses was used by the Commissariat Department as a depot for the safe custody of sheep, preparatory to their removal to the slaughter-house adjacent. Many Native Christians resided in the servants' rooms in this square, and used sometimes to desert over the outer wall towards Golaganj. As, however, the enemy invariably executed all Christians, the rest thought it wiser to remain on half rations than court inevitable death at their hands by desertion.
The sheep and slaughter-houses were defended by Uncovenanted Civilians, under the command of Captain Boileau, 7th Light Cavalry.
Sheep-House Battery was begun, about the 12th September, at the end of the lane between the sheep-yard and the slaughter-yard, to flank and protect that front. After a few days the work was suspended, and then resumed about the 7th October, but the battery was never brought into use.
X.—CHURCH.
This was a Gothic building, erected in the year 1810. It was converted into store-rooms for grain, but was afterwards found too much exposed, and Volunteer fatigue parties had to be obtained for the removal of the grain, oil,. ghee, &c., which was a service of great danger, as the enemy was in possession of the native houses in close proximity to the Church on the west side. The opening through which the stores were removed is still to be seen in the east wall of the chancel.
At the gate to the east was a mortar battery to shell the whole of the western and northern buildings as far as the Iron and Stone, Bridges. Near the entrance to the Church, upon the road, was placed a battery of three guns, one 18-pounder and two 9-pounders, which, from having been commanded during the siege by Captain Evans, the Deputy Commissioner of Poorwah, was known as Evans' Battery.
The Church had no garrison in it, as the ground. before it left it so liable to a surprise. This was the weakest point in the whole defence, and one which caused the greatest anxiety to Brigadier Inglis. It was undercover of this build ​ing that pits were dug every night, to receive the victims of the day's fire, cholera. or small-pox.
"Neath the ruined Church walls, here sleep in the shade, The mother and infant, the warrior and maid. Their graves are sad voices, which silently tell Of those who once suffer'd and gloriously fell. When the Mutinous surge, beat against this lone rock, And a handful of Heroes, repell'd the dread shock ! Which threatened destruction to each and to all, When death was a solace, and welcome the call. Affiction's dark cloud, has since vanish'd at last ! But the Ruins remain, which still speak of the past ! The stranger now treads, with full reverence, the ground, Where the sleepers will sleep till the last Trumpet's sound.” K. M. Nicholson.
Y.—REDAN BATTERY.
This battery was commenced about the 15th June, under the direction of Captain Fulton, and was by far the best battery we possessed in the line of defences. It was defended by a party of the 32nd Regiment, under the command of Lieutenant Sam Lawrence, of the same corps, an able and gallant officer. It mounted two 18-pounders and a 9-pounder, and was placed so as to sweep the Captain Bazaar, and the road up to the Iron Bridge. Here, on the 5th July, Mr. Ommanney was struck by a cannon shot in the head, which caused his death. On the 20th July the enemy made an attack on this post, by springing a mine, but fortunately missed the right direction, and the battery remained uninjured. They advanced within 25 paces of the post, but were compelled to retire under a heavy discharge of musketry. No less than one hundred of the enemy were borne off the ground by their comrades from this post alone, so tremendous and precise was the fire.
"The enemy made two mines directed against the Redan. The nose of the Redan was of brickwork, and I think that there was a small building abutting on it, a tool-house, or something of the kind. The point in the Bazaar where the second mine was started was 203 feet from the apex of the Redan, on a bearing of 72.° The actual direction of the mine was on a bearing of 101° and its extreme length was 157, the point reached being as nearly as possible 100 feet from the point aimed at. It was blown up, as a precautionary measure, by the garrison, on the 30th September."
"The ﬁrst mine was begun at a point 150 feet lower down the Captain Bazaar than the second, and was quite wrong in direction, and short in length. It was sprung innocuously on the 20th July."
​"There was a constant alarm that the enemy would undermine the Redan successfully, and the-ground immediately in front of it was twice reconnoitred and sounded for mines, but none were discovered; and, as was known subsequently, none were made that really approached the Redan sufficiently near to endanger it."
Z.—INNES' HOUSE.
This post was separated from the churchyard by a low mud wall. It was a commodious, lower-roomed house, having a sloping pucca roof, with a verandah to the east and north, and consisted of four large and several small rooms; in the centre room there was a staircase leading to the roof. It was only very slightly protected by palisades and the ordinary mud compound wall. At the end of one stockade existed a mud shed, with a flight of stairs leading to an upper room called the cockloft, commanding the Iron Bridge. The position was defended by a party of the 32nd, a few sepoys of the 13th Native Infantry, and some Uncovenanted Civilians, under the command of Lieutenant Loughnan, 13th Native Infantry, and subsequently Captain Graydon, of the 44th Native Infantry.
This extreme outpost was on the north-west, a most commanding position. On the 20th July a most fierce assault was made on this post; the enemy came close under the walls with scaling ladders, but so hot a fire was kept up from our position that they were unable to plant them against the wall; after repeated futile efforts the foe was forced to relinquish the attempt. While this was going on, the cockloft mentioned above was in the most imminent danger of being taken: Mr. Erith, Corporal of Volunteers, seeing the peril, advanced amidst a shower of bullets, but was struck in the neck and fell. Meanwhile another part of the outpost was resolutely held by George Bailey (also a Volunteer) and a couple of sepoys, which resulted in the Volunteer receiving a dangerous wound in the chin. This little party was, however, reinforced, and they held their own.
Another assault, accompanied by an explosion of mines, ​was made on the 10th August: the enemy's fire was incessant, especially from the 8-inch howitzer lost at Chinhut, which played on this post with fatal effect, bringing down beam after beam of the roof, and making a great many breaches in the wall. Captain Graydon was shot while superintending some works on a mound in front of the outpost. In September this place, after having sustained such a severe cannonading, was pronounced unsafe, two sides having fallen in, and nearly burying the sentries in the ruins.
The following account of the post and its defence has been kindly supplied by Mr. E. Bickers, who 'received a severe wound at this place :—
"Innes' House was situated at the extreme end of the intrenchments and towards the north of the Church. It was regarded as an outpost, and very indifferently protected. On the south side there was a masonry wall six feet high. In this post there were a few out-offices and a wooden barricade. On the north there was also a range of out-offices, and here and there bare walls scarcely five feet high. The east of the house almost faced the Residency. There was no cannon at this post, but one was obtained for three days, with the permission of the Brigadier-General, and directed towards the enemy's gun, near the Iron Bridge, which did considerable damage to the house as well as the Residency building. But our gun only served to increase the fire of the enemy, and the General ordered it to be withdrawn, as the post was greatly exposed, and it was feared the enemy might attempt to take possession of it. The 20th July was a memorable day to the beleaguered garrison, as on that day the enemy made a most desperate attack (see page 49).
"They sprang a mine at the Redan Battery, which was the signal for a general attack that lasted the whole day. About 2,000 of the enemy assembled towards Innes' post, which they endeavoured to storm, making every effort to burn down the barricade, but we kept up a galling fire from the out-offices and shot several of the leading men, when they were compelled to retire. Our loss, on that occasion, in killed and wounded, was about four; and it was fortunate we were protected by the out-ofﬁces, or the casualties on our side would have been far greater. The Brigadier-General was so pleased with our exertions that he came to the post and thanked us in person. There was another sharp attack on the 12th August and afterwards on two or three occasions, but nothing compared to the desperate assault of 20th July."
ZZ. — RESIDENCY LOWER GARDEN.
This was abandoned on the 3rd of July as untenable, with tents standing, and about 200 unmounted guns of the late King. It was a sort of neutral ground during the siege, until occupied again after Havelock's entry. On bringing in the ammunition from Machhi Bawan, the powder was buried here. but owing to a stack of bhoosa, or chopped straw, having caught fire in its neighbourhood, and the enemy occupying the houses on the far side of the garden, it was thought best to remove it into the Begum Kothie, Where it was placed in the tykhana, heavy beams being laid over the floor to keep it safe (see para. 53).
Notes. — The annexed plan of the Residency shows the position of the places described above as indicated by corresponding letters of the alphabet being affixed thereto, but it may be necessary to point out that this differs from the order laid down in the Revd. Mr. Moore's book and model.
In the Residency Church yard, even up to the present time, only burials of the members of the original garrison and their families are permitted—sanction for such burials must be obtained from the City Magistrate. The defenders are interred in the ground on which the ruins of the Church stand and their families in the higher ground south of the Church.
Hand grenades, so called from the resemblance of its shape and size to a pomegranate, are usually about two inches and a half in diameter. These shells of iron are filled with powder which is fired by means of a fuse and are intended to be thrown by the hand into mines, trenches or upon besiegers mounting a breach. They burst into many pieces and do great injury.
* ↑ I have in my possession an Enfield Rifle cartridge which among other Mutiny relics, was preserved by my father.
* ↑ This house was known as the "Sago Garrison," because it had been used as a school house, prior to the siege, by Mrs. Elizabeth Sago. With the assistance of the King of Oudh, a school for the instruction of native female Christians was established in 1837 by the British Resident, Sir John Low; and that amiable and most respectable widow lady undertook the arduous task of instructing them.
* ↑ See note on page 176.
* ↑ Mr Gubbins writes:— "Sufficient justice has scarcely been done to the clerks and Uncovenanted Service. The admirable conduct displayed by this class, which contained such men as Kavauagh and Williams, during the seige, surprised us all. Several of them rendered excellent service in the Volunteer Cavalry. All behaved well during the seige, and were often very conspicuous in repelling the fiercest attacks of the enemy. They deserved better at the hands of Government than they have received, or had at least received, when I left India."