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# The Cutters' Practical Guide (1898)/Part 1

THE CUTTERS' PRACTICAL GUIDE
PART 1.
Juvenile and Youths' Garments.
THE CUTTERS
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO
Cuting Every Kind of Garment Made by Tailors,
IN A SERIES OF PARTS
PART ONE
YOUNG MEN'S, YOUTHS AND JUVENILLE GARMENTS
Enbracing also Treatise on
Trousers, Vests, Milltary Garments, Liveries etc., etc., etc.
by W.D.F. VINCENT
Author of "The Federation First Prize Essay on Trouser Cutting" "The First Prize Essay on the Managment of Foreman Tailor Societies" etc., etc. and
One of the teachers at the "Tailor and Cutter" School of Art, 93 & 94 DURY LANE, LONDON,W.C
PRICE FIFTEEN SHILLINGS
PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY THE JOHN WILLIAMSON CO. LIMITED AT THE TAILOR AND CUTTER OFFICE, 93 & 94 DURY LANE, LONDON,W.C.
London: Printed by the John Willamson Company, Limited at "Tailor and Cutter" Office, 90 & 91 Dury Lane, W.C.
* Preface
* Introduction
* The System
* Vests
* Trousers
* Juvenile Clothing
* Economy
* Illustrations
# The Cutters' Practical Guide (1898)/Part 1/Illustrations

The Shirt System patterns Reffer and Lounge (Jacket) patterns
# The Cutters' Practical Guide

* Search for titles containing or beginning with: "The Cutters' Practical Guide."
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* Part 1 - Juvenile and Youth Garments (1898)
* The Cutters' Practical Guide to the Cutting of Ladies' Garments (1890) by W. D. F. Vincent (being Vol. 6. of the CPG.) (transcription project)
* Part 13 - The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting & Making all kinds of British Military Uniforms
# The Cutters' Practical Guide (1898)/Part 1/Preface

Author's Preface
IT is with some degree of pleasure I look upon this, the first Part of "The Cutters' Practical Guide to the Cutting and Making every kind of garment;" for while I have done my utmost to make the work as complete as possible, so as to be of greatest service to the cutter in daily practice, the publishers have brought it out in a style and finish which not only maintains their reputation, but excels, I think, any previous effort.
It has been my aim to place before my fellow craftsmen illustrations, diagrams and descriptive letterpress of current styles, with the safest and best systems (according to my judgment) of the present day for producing them. In doing so I have had very material help from some of the best specialist cutters in London; so that the special garments introduced in this work must be of great service to the cutter, as these give more trouble than the everyday class of orders.
It will be noticed I have made a few alterations in the Trouser System, chiefly to simplify and, if possible, make it plainer, and thus in my opinion improve it, although the principles are the same as in the "Federation Prize Essay." Thus, it will be seen, my endeavour has been to produce a work of real practical utility - one which would be a genuine help to the cutter amidst the worries of a peculiar and trying profession. In doing so I have left controversial subjects almost, if not entirely, out of the work.
If in this I have succeeded, and so placed the means of self help within the reach of many, who, struggling amidst doubt and anxiety, are all the more eagerly seeking for light in the study of their profession, I shall be simply rewarded.
THE AUTHOR
Publishers' Preface
TO THE
THIRD EDITION
THE confidence with which this work was first introduced has been well justified by the result—a very large edition having been disposed of. Very rarely, if ever has a work so comprehensive been published in connection with the art of cutting. For though nominally a work on Juvenille Cutting, it embraces nearly every garment made by tailors.
Besides systems for and treatises on Trousers and Vests, systems for Morning Coats and Dress Coats, it also deals with Military Garments, Liveries and other garments, all worked out by a system which has now become well nigh universally popular, a special feature of the work being its beautifully engraved illustrations and diagrams. We have had very many indications that the work is highly appreciated by all who have procured it, and many testimonies might be recorded if that were necessary. This Third Edition has been prepared in all its original completeness. With such a work in their possession neither the inexperienced student nor the cutter in full practice should feel any difficulty in producing any of the garments treated and illustrated in this work.
THE JOHN WILLAMSON COMPANY, LIMITED.
# The Encyclopedia Americana (1920)/Peace River

Edition of 1920. See also the disclaimer.
PEACE RIVER, Canada, an important affluent of the Mackenzie (q.v.).
# The Encyclopedia Americana (1920)/Patron Saint

Edition of 1920. See also Patron saint on Wikipedia, and the disclaimer.
PATRON SAINT, the canonized saint who is sometimes credited with watching over, protecting or interceding for certain persons, places, trades or institutions. Thus Saint George is commonly called the patron saint of England, Saint Denys of France and so on. In the Middle Ages every trade had its patron saint. Saint Clair was the patron of lamplighters; Saint Cloud of nailers; Saint BIanc or Blanchard of laundresses; Saint Peter of fishermen; and Saint Dunstan of goldsmiths. The patron of an individual is generally the saint by whose name he was baptized. In most Latin countries a person celebrates not only his birthday but each of his saint's days. It often happens that he may be required to celebrate one certain saint's day several times in the year, as that of Saint John or that of Saint Joseph. So it is common to add to such a name a specific to determine which John or Joseph it is. Thus we have “Juan de Dios” (John of God) in Spanish as a very common baptismal name; and in French John the Baptist is so common that in some parts the French peasants are designated “Baptist.” The same thing happens with Jesus, which is a common baptismal name in Latin Catholic countries; and the curious combination Jesus Mary is frequently met with in men's names. This limits the name to one person, Jesus the son of Mary.
# The Encyclopedia Americana (1920)/Patronage

Edition of 1920. See also Patronage on Wikipedia, and the disclaimer.
PATRONAGE, the right vested in a person, official, or political party, of appointment to offices and positions, the award of contracts, the disposition of emoluments, pensions, etc. Except in special cases, the right of appointment to office was vested by the Constitution of the United States in the President, his selections to be confirmed by the Senate, and up to the time of the Civil War, the President
maintained actual as well as nominal control of appointments. But during and after that period the patronage at the disposal of the national government increased at such a rate that the political manipulation of offices became exceedingly complex. Practical dictation to certain offices was gradually acquired by the senators who by courtesy secured the control of appointments, each in his own State, although in form, the initiative and the responsibility remains with the President.
In the field of State and local government, cities furnish the greatest display of the misuse of patronage as appointments are numerous and elective officers few. Except in the matter of building contracts, supplies, etc., education, fortunately, has usually been considered outside the domain of politics, and teachers have been chosen primarily with a view to fitness for their positions. In the combination of Federal and local patronage, the number of voters who get, or expect to get employment in case of a party victory is so large that it tends to destroy true party balance. The need of controlling this power has led several States to enact civil service laws with the object of taking most of the appointive offices out of politics.
Experience shows that instead of being the support of the party system, patronage tends rather to its destruction. There are never spoils enough to “go round”; bitter factions grow up and their selfish strife disrupts the party. Patronage is in fact a concealed form of bribery; the giving of office or contracts as rewards for party service works insidious corruption of political morality. A large proportion of voters regard offices as perquisites of the party, as gifts bestowed upon the faithful, rather than as positions of public trust, and as Horace Bushnell has strikingly observed, “such a system would corrupt a nation of angels.”
Ecclesiastical patronage is the right vested in a church body or a layman to appoint a properly qualified person to a vacant church appointment. Marked by much contention and various abuses during the Middle Ages, the history of ecclesiastical patronage goes far back into the centuries and still exists, to some extent, in the Protestant churches of Europe. In the United States, ecclesiastical patronage is vested usually in the official body of laymen supporting a church, with the exception of Catholic churches where it is vested in the diocesan bishop on the general principles of the canons of the third and fourth Lateran councils as decreed by the plenary councils of Baltimore. See Church Government.
# The Encyclopedia Americana (1920)/Peace Society

Edition of 1920. See also Peace Society on Wikipedia, and the disclaimer.
PEACE SOCIETY, an organization founded for the purpose of promoting universal peace on a permanent basis among the nations. William Allen and Joseph Price organized a peace society in London in 1816; but the first peace society on the European continent was established in Geneva in 1830. At the International Peace Congress held in London in 1843 there were present 294 British, 37 American and six Continental delegates. The society, more or less a religious movement, asked the support of all denominations as well as of persons who oppose war on any grounds. It has always advocated a gradual disarmament by all the nations of Europe, but its main contention is the necessity for adopting the principle of arbitration in international disputes. See American Peace Society; Carnegie Endowment for International Peace; Peace Convention.
# The Encyclopedia Americana (1920)/Peace of God

Edition of 1920. See also Peace and Truce of God on Wikipedia, and the disclaimer.
PEACE OF GOD, a cessation from private warfare which the Roman Catholic Church in France in the 10th and 11th centuries tried to impose upon the nobles of that country. The ecclesiastical authorities in several synods recommended that all differences should be settled by the ordinary civil tribunals, and attempted to enforce obedience or at least compliance by threats of spiritual penalties. But these efforts were all in vain, the nobles refusing to submit to any of the minor courts — the only ones then existing. A compromise was arrived at which resulted in the establishment of what was known as the Truce of God (q.v.).
# The Encyclopedia Americana (1920)/Patrick, Mary Mills

Edition of 1920. See also Mary Mills Patrick on Wikipedia, and the disclaimer.
​ PATRICK, Mary Mills, American college president: b. Canterbury, N. H., 10 March 1850. She was educated at Lyons College, Iowa, the State University of Iowa and at the universities of Heidelberg, Zurich, Leipzig, Berlin and Berne. She became president of the American College for Girls at Constantinople in 1890. She was a member of the Pyschological Congresses at Munich in 1896 and at Paris in 1900; and of the Philosophical Congresses at Paris, 1900, and at Bologne in 1911. Author of ‘Armenian Translation of Text-Book of Physiology’ (1876); ‘Sextus Empiricus and Greek Skepticism’ (1899); ‘Sappho and the Island of Lesbos’ (1912), etc.
# The Encyclopedia Americana (1920)/Patrick, Albert T.

Edition of 1920. See also Albert T. Patrick on Wikipedia, and the disclaimer.
​ PATRICK, Albert T., American lawyer: b. Texas, 19th century. He was engaged in practice when charged with inspiring the murder of William Marsh Rice, an aged millionaire, on 24 Sept. 1900. Patrick was convicted 26 March 1902 and was sentenced to be electrocuted, but secured appeals which delayed the execution of the sentence. His sentence was commuted to life imprisonment by Governor Higgins in 1906 and he was pardoned by Governor Dix in 1912. The motive for the crime was supposed to be Patrick's inheritance of the Rice fortune through a bogus will. It was said that the conduct of the case during the 12 years cost Patrick and his friends $162,000. </dov>
# The Encyclopedia Americana (1920)/Patrick, Saint, Order of

Edition of 1920. See also the disclaimer.
​ PATRICK, Saint, Order of. See Orders and Decorations.
# The Encyclopedia Americana (1920)/Patron

Edition of 1920. See also Patronage on Wikipedia, and the disclaimer.
PATRON (from the Latin “Patronus” through the French “patron”). The word was directly connected with “pater,” father, and in its signification and use undoubtedly date back to patriarchal days. Among the Romans, a name denoting a patrician who had plebeians under his immediate protection, and whose interests he supported by his authority and influence. When Rome had conquered many nations, noble Romans were sometimes the patrons of whole cities and provinces, and such patronage even descended by inheritance in some families. The Marcelli were patrons of the Sicilians because Claudius Marcellus had succeeded in conquering Sicily. Patron was also the title of every advocate who represented the interest of another, his client. In later times the term patron was applied to every protector or influential promoter of the interests of
others; hence the saints who were believed to watch over the interests of particular persons, places or trades were called patron saints. The patron became the guardian of a clients' interests and upheld these interests in the law courts. Patron and client were under a legal obligation never to accuse one another, down to before the Christan era. Even to-day throughout Latin countries the patron is a person of importance. In Spanish America the name is given to the head of a family or business by his employees; and the word is used in much the same sense as “boss” in English. One who provides food for a feast or entertainment is also designated the patron of the occasion. When a new business is opened with a dinner or reunion to celebrate the occasion the giver of the feast is known as the “patron”; when a child is baptized there is a patron for the occasion. The person who freed his slaves in Roman days generally retained toward them the relationship of patron or protector, that is the old patriarchal relation of a father to his family; and this relationship was recognized in early Roman law — as the patronus pleaded for them in court or on special occasions, the word in Latin came to have the special meaning of lawyer. In an ecclesiastical sense, a patron has long had the meaning of one who has the right to present a “living” or other preferment to a clergyman. In Spanish countries this idea it carried further, and a captain of a ship or the landlord of a rented property or the keeper of an inn or hotel is familiarly called the “patron.”
# The Dictionary of Australasian Biography/Hemmant, William

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​Hemmant, William, formerly a colonist in Queensland, where he sat in the Legislative Assembly, was Colonial Treasurer in the Macalister Government from Jan. 1874 to June 1876. He now resides in London, where he is one of the directors of the Australian Joint Stock Bank. For several months in 1884 he was acting Agent-General for Queensland during the interval between the retirement of Mr. Archer and the arrival of his successor, Mr. (now Sir) James Garrick in June of that year. He was one of the Commissioners for Queensland at the Colonial and Indian Exhibition in 1886.
# The Dictionary of Australasian Biography/Henry, Hon. John

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​Henry, Hon. John, M.H.A., Treasurer of Tasmania, was for a number of years Warden of the Mersey Marine Board. He was returned to the House of Assembly for Devonport in May 1891. In August 1892 he accepted office as Treasurer in the Dobson Ministry.
# The Dictionary of Australasian Biography/Hensman, His Honour Alfred Peach

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​Hensman, His Honour Alfred Peach, B.A., Puisne Judge, Western Australia, is the second son of John Hensman, solicitor, Northampton. He was educated at London University, and became B.A. in ​1853, and a member of Convocation. He entered at the Middle Temple on May 29th, 1852; and was called to the bar on Jan. 26th, 1858. He was a revising barrister and author of a "Handbook of the Constitution." In 1883 he was appointed Attorney-General of Western Australia with a seat in the Executive and Legislative Councils. He resigned in 1886 owing to a dispute with the Governor, Sir F. Napier Broome, but still resided in Western Australia, and in 1892 was appointed third judge of the Supreme Court.
# The Dictionary of Australasian Biography/Henderson, Rev. Anketell Matthew

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​Henderson, Rev. Anketell Matthew, was born at Anketell Grove, Monaghan, Ireland, in 1820. He was a Wesleyan minister in Ireland from 1841 to 1852, when "he embraced Congregationalism, and was Congregational minister in Cork from 1852 to 1856 and in London from the latter year till 1865. He went to Melbourne in 1865, having been appointed President of the Congregational College, and in 1866 became pastor of the Collins Street Church, in succession to the Rev. A. Morrison. Stimulated by his exertions, a new church was built, which cost £23,000, and was opened in 1868. He died on June 23rd, 1876, at Toronto, in Canada, whither he had gone for rest and change of scene.
# The Dictionary of Australasian Biography/Herbert, Hon. Sir Robert George Wyndham

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​Herbert, Hon. Sir Robert George Wyndham, K.C.B., D.C.L. (Oxon.), LL.D. (Camb.), Permanent Under-Secretary for the Colonies, is a son of the late Hon. Algernon Herbert, fifth son of Henry, 1st Earl of Carnarvon, by Marianne, daughter of Thomas Lempriere, of Jersey. He was born on June 12th, 1831, and educated at Eton and Balliol College, Oxford, where he was scholar in 1849; Hertford scholar in 1851; Ireland scholar and Latin verse prizeman in 1852, and Eldon scholar in 1854. He graduated B.A. with high honours in 1854, and in that year became Fellow of All Souls' College in the same university. He entered at the Inner Temple in July 1854, and was called to the bar in April 1858. Having been Secretary to Mr. Gladstone when Chancellor of the Exchequer in 1855, he emigrated to Australia, and going to Queensland, became in March 1859 Colonial Secretary of that colony after its separation from New South Wales, sitting in the first Legislative Assembly for Leichardt, and becoming the first Premier of that colony. His administration lasted till. Feb. 1866, Mr. Herbert holding the additional post of Acting Colonial Treasurer from Oct. 1864. He was again Premier without portfolio for a few days in July and August of the year 1866. Returning to England, he was one of the Assistant Secretaries to the Board of Trade from 1868 to Feb. 1870, when he was appointed Assistant Under-Secretary of State for the Colonies and Under-Secretary in succession to Sir Frederick Rogers (afterwards Lord Blackford) on May 21st, 1871. In Feb. 1892, after over twenty years' service as Under-Secretary, Sir Robert Herbert resigned this important post, which gives its occupant a highly potential voice in all the details of administration which the progress of self-governing institutions still leaves to the central authority in Downing Street. At the same time Sir Robert resigned the secretaryship of the Order of St Michael and St. George, which he had held since May 1877.
# The Dictionary of Australasian Biography/Heron, Mrs. Henry

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​Heron, Mrs. Henry (Emilie Matilda Australie Manning), better known under her literary pseudonym, "Australie," was the daughter of Sir W. M. Manning (q.v.). She was born in New South Wales in 1845, and married, in 1873, Henry Heron, a solicitor in Sydney. Having visited England, where she remained for two years and a half, she adopted literary pursuits, and contributed tales and essays to the Sydney Morning Herald and the Sydney Mail. She also published a volume of poems, entitled "The Balance of Pain" (George Bell & Sons: London, 1877), and died in Sydney on August 25th, 1890.
# The Dictionary of Australasian Biography/Henty, Francis

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​Henty, Francis, brother of the above, was the youngest son of Thomas Henty, was born at Field Place, Worthing, Sussex, on Nov. 30th, 1815, and emigrated to Tasmania with his father. He subsequently followed his brother Edward to Portland, Vict., landing a month later than that gentleman, on Dec. 14th, 1834. Having returned to Tasmania on a visit in the following year, he called in at Port Phillip (now Melbourne) in September, and assisted Mr. Batman, the founder of the city, to pitch a tent on what was afterwards known as Batman's Hill. In the last week of August 1836 Sir Thomas Mitchell, the explorer, visited Portland on his way overland from Sydney to the southern shore of the continent. At this time there was no one settled nearer Portland than where Melbourne now stands, and the appearance of a stranger was somewhat startling in those days of escaped convicts. However, the Major was recognised by one of the establishment. He was furnished with supplies, had the pleasure of witnessing the excitement of a whale chase, and in return informed the Messrs. Henty of the existence of the fine country at the back of Portland, on the Wannon River, which he had named Australia Felix. Hitherto the latter had not gone more than twenty miles inland with their flocks. On August 3rd, 1837, a settlement was commenced in this country at the spot since known as Merino Downs, of which Mr. Francis Henty became the owner. Conflicts between the blacks and some of the whites could scarcely be avoided, but Mr. Henty had not much trouble, the aborigines soon becoming friendly; but they were never allowed to bring their spears and other weapons within a certain distance of the hut. To show how quickly the country was taken up after the first essay had been made, it may be mentioned that in 1839 Messrs. James and Stephen G. Henty rode overland from Geelong to Portland, and were able to obtain shelter each night during the whole journey. Mr. Henty, though keeping up his establishment at Merino Downs, resided for the last few years of his life in Melbourne. He married at Launceston, Tas., Miss Mary Ann Lawrence, who died in Nov. 1881. Mr. Henty died at Kew, near Melbourne, on Jan. 15th, 1889.
# The Dictionary of Australasian Biography/Henty, Hon. James

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​Henty, Hon. James, M.L.C., brother of above and eldest son of Thomas Henty, was born at West Tarring on Sept. 24th, 1800. He was engaged in farming with his father, and then joined the family banking ​firm in the county of Sussex. In June 1829 he went to West Australia with his brothers John and Stephen George, but, being dissatisfied with the country, proceeded to Tasmania in 1831, where his father and brothers joined him. Mr. James Henty started business as a general merchant in Launceston, and from 1851 was head of the firm of James Henty and Co., of Melbourne and Geelong. Mr. Henty declined a nominee seat in the Legislative Council of Tasmania in 1844, and settled permanently in Victoria in 1851, being, returned to the old Legislative Council of that colony in the following year. After responsible government was conceded, Mr. Henty sat in the present Legislative Council of Victoria as member for the South-western Province. He was one of the promoters of the Melbourne and Hobson's Bay Railway, and was one of the directors, and for some time chairman, of the company. He married in 1830 Miss Carter, of Worthing, Sussex, who died in 1868. Mr. Henty died in 1882.