# Sixteen years of an artist's life in Morocco, Spain and the Canary Islands/Chapter 3

CHAPTER III.
When the dance was ended, the lady of the house was formally presented to her guests. She had considerable pretensions to beauty, her face, in particular, being what I can only describe in adequate terms as magnificently handsome. But although my attention was particularly attracted to the human countenance divine, its form, its features, and expression, I was soon able to discover that the natives of this sunny clime have a much more ample standard of beauty than any by which the ​taste, the judgment, and the senses of Europeans are directed; and I also found that the lady who presided over the establishment in which we were now favoured with the spectacle of so much that was new, instructive, and amusing, and to whom we had been properly introduced, afforded in her own person a most adequate exemplification of what true beauty, as it appears to the eyes of the enlightened inhabitants of Morocco and of other lands which are under the influence of Eastern habits of thought and feeling, really is. What, then, was that standard of taste, as regards beauty, by which we were to be enabled to appreciate the surpassing loveliness of our hostess? Was it Platonic or Aristotelic? Was it Jeffreyan or Ruskinian? Was it material or ideal? Did it trace the line of beauty in regular features, or did it look for the soul that mantles in the expressive face, the eloquence that speaks in the intelligent eye? Oh, no, ye philosophers, and poets, and artists of the West, all these are merely fanciful theories, which have no foundation in fact, which are not accordant with that great standard, the nature of things. Learn, then, from the shores of Northern Africa what genuine beauty is, and henceforth bestow your admiration only where it is due. Beauty, then, is size, magnitude, amplitude ​—let me not mince matters, but say the world at once, excessive fatness. The lady whom, being now enlightened, we looked upon as the very beau ideal of Moorish beauty, was perfectly ungainly in appearance, and of the most unwieldy proportions; but these were the qualities that made her the Cynosure of all eyes, the points of attraction which rendered her irresistible, and which excited tender feelings in the hearts of her admirers. The gentle lover's admiration, in Morocco, increases with the size of his mistress, and his devotion becomes unlimited along with her proportions. Benighted Europeans appear to have some anticipation of the truth when they occasionally speak of a young lady who is not quite Sylph-like in form as making a good armful. The perfect Moorish standard of female beauty is considered to be attained when a woman is a load for a camel. Our Hebrew Venus had certainly reached that standard, for her arms hung down with fat, and her fingers, which were loaded with rings, had swollen over them, so that if not quite a load for two camels, she was assuredly more than enough for one.
The Jews in Morocco exhibit all the traces of the melancholy to which they are reduced; and oppression has left its visible stamp on their countenances and in their character. Being ruled ​with a rod of iron by the faithful followers of the prophet, they are obsequious and cringing in their conduct and demeanour towards those whom they regard as their masters. Indispensable as the Jew is to the state, and valuable as the services which he can often render undoubtedly are, no injustice is considered too great if its object be one of that humbled and submissive race. The servant of servants must submit to continued degradation, and endure all the afflictions of his unhappy lot, even the most undeserved, without repining. If there were no other cause to keep the Jews distinct and separate as a people from the nations among whom they dwell, the very persecution to which they are so generally subjected is sufficient to account, without considering at present any other influences, for the isolation in which they dwell, and must tend to bind more indissolubly to one another.
It is sometimes said that the Jew has none of the higher aspirations that inspire men of nobler character, that the great object of life with him is merely to amass money, and that so completely has this master passion degraded his character, that so long as gold shines in the distance to tempt him, he will even lick the dust to obtain it. There is doubtless too much truth in this assertion, but is it to be wondered at that things are so; when we remember that all the ​higher objects of ambition, and all the more honourable means of acquiring distinction, are systematically held back from this deeply injured people. There are not wanting many facts to prove that when a wider sphere of action has been opened up for their admission, they have shown themselves quite as capable of being inspired by an honourable ambition, and of exerting themselves with success to obtain an acknowledged position, as the individuals of any other nation or class of people.
Even in Morocco, where their condition is so melancholy, and their sphere of action so circumscribed, many of the cleverest and most intelligent artizans are Jews. As pretty merchants, goldsmiths, interpreters, and servants, they show themselves capable of acting as intelligent men of business, as ingenious artizans, as useful attendants upon travellers, and as trustworthy subordinates. The Hebrew will readily resort to any kind of occupation, no matter what it is, by which a good living can be made or money amassed; and by the force of application, by the exercise of a quick intelligence, he will soon make himself master of its various details, and even attain to some superiority in their practical application. Many of them in this country are excellent linguists; and it is by no means uncommon to meet with a little, ragged, ​dirty boy who can speak French, Spanish, Arabic, Hebrew, and frequently English, and who would be regarded as a most wonderful phenomenon in England. My own native servant could express herself in any of these languages, while my English maid could be said to have succeeded in mastering her own.
The Barbary Jews are much more rigid in the observance of their religious obligations than their brethren in the more civilised parts of the world are; and what with the exactions of their Mohammedan rulers, and their own voluntary sacrifices on behalf of their faith, they lead but a sorry life, and the sad expression of the countenances of the poor children of Israel impresses this fact very strongly upon the stranger.
The Jews in Barbary are the descendants of those who, three hundred years ago, were banished from Spain and found a refuge on these shores. As a race, the men are generally abject and mean in appearance, but by no means destitute of intellect; but the Jewesses, especially when young, are most classically beautiful. Their features are almost invariably finely chiselled, and their black eyes, which are not piercing as in Spain, but pearly and melting, are full of repose. The first impression perhaps, on observing them, is that the pupils are ​unnaturally large and distended; but this appearance, which is considered to add to their beauty, is produced by art, as one can easily detect on approaching the ladies nearer, and by observing them more closely. The cohol-stained eyelid at once discovered the secret as to means by which this highly-prized mark of beauty is produced. The operation is performed by drawing a small silver instrument like a bodkin, which has been previously dipped in the appropriate liquid, over the edges of the eyelids on the inner sides. The sensation caused by this operation, which is effected with the eyelids closed, is said to be very agreeable and refreshing; and when the complexion and the eyes are dark, it undoubtedly produces an appearance of beauty, and if the reality is already there, increases and heightens its effect. The operation, however, is seldom successful when it is tried as an experiment on English ladies, their ruddy complexions, light eyes, and fair hair forming an ensemble which is not capable of the slightest improvement by such means. The application altogether, in such cases, produces a very disagreeable effect; and the countenance, instead of being rendered more beautiful and expressive, assumes a remarkably coarse and dirty appearance.
​Animal beauty, however, is all that the Jewess of Barbary possesses. Physically, she is a beautiful creature, but she is nothing more. Her intellect is without cultivation; she is a stranger to refinement; no expression animates her otherwise fine countenance; and she is totally without any distinct character of her own. However beautiful and attractive she may be in appearance, one turns away without interest or emotion from a being who can hardly be said to have a soul, or whose better part, at least, in consequence of the circumstances under the influence of which she has been reared, has been lulled into something like an almost unending sleep.
Mohammedan countries are perhaps the only ones where a woman can be said to possess, in some respect at least, any advantages of liberty over men. The Christian woman is unrestrained in her movements, and can freely enter the house and harems, where she is known, when she pleases; and the Moorish woman, wrapped up in the ample folds of her garments, and so disguised as to baffle whatever direction she may choose, without incurring the slightest risk of being recognised. During the nine years which I resided in Tangier, I had many opportunities of visiting the Moorish women, and of ​closely observing their character. I found them generally to be idle, good-natured, gossiping and frivolous―possessing, in fact, all those small peculiarities of character that distinguish women in our own Christian country. The superintendence of their domestic affairs formed their gravest and most important occupation. Surrounding themselves with a hideous posse of black slaves, with each one with her own progeny around her, the wife reigns supreme over her sooty circle, and lords it most superbly in their midst. If she wishes to bestow her attention on some more light and elegant occupation, she resorts to embroidery, a never-failing refuge for her unoccupied hands in her many idle hours during the long, hot, and sunny day. I remember one monstrous creature―a Moorish beauty― the wife of an official, who, on receiving me, felt my clothes and counted my fingers to see if a Nazarene woman was in all points made like herself. My gloves next attracted her attention, and she proceeded to examine them, although from some cause, she shrank from them at first with fear. She was, as is usual here, very beautiful down to the chin, and her complexion was as fair as that of an English matron. Her black languishing eyes, like those of the Jewesses, were stained with al cohol; and besides the extreme whiteness of her skin, she ​possessed that peculiarly marble-like quality which is only obtained by the frequent use of the bath. Her hair was flowing down in rich luxuriance over her shoulders, and the head and face altogether presented an appearance of remarkable beauty. But the extraordinary size of her body, which was quite overwhelming, I found rather difficult to recognize as any recommendation in the way of beauty, according to my European standard, which I do not find myself quite prepared to dispense with.
In Morocco, the Moorish maiden, on her betrothal, undergoes a regular course of fattening, which is continuously carried on till her marriage, and which is conducted on the same principle as that on which our farmers fatten fowls. While undergoing the process, she sits all day in a dimly-lighted room, and is stuffed incessantly with Enscupoo, a preparation of flour, which is the national dish of Morocco, in addition to which she drinks copiously of water. While undergoing this regimen she is dressed lightly, and in order to prevent any exertion or exercise on her part, she wears a gigantic pair of silver anklets, of great weight, the presence of which renders rest more desirable than the slightest locomotion. This process continues for some time and the indolence of the mind being added to that ​of the body, she is sure, ere long, to arrive at the orthodox amplitude.
This lady introduced me to all her lord's legitimate children, while the superfluous little offshoots were collecting about to stare and gape at my novel appearance. We were assembled in the Patio, or inner court, common to all Moorish houses; a gallery ran all around, which was supported by elegant pillars; and the centre was open to the sky. Large doors, opening from the four sides, gave us an insight into long narrow passages, which served for rooms, but can scarcely be called so. There were, besides, innumerable little alcoves and oddly-shaped recesses, all ornamented with the most elegant Saracenic decorations, and all paved with the same brilliant and many-coloured tiles which I had seen in the Jewish houses and the Moorish mosque. Beckoning me to follow her upstairs, the lady conducted me through several beautiful indented Moorish arches, all most richly adorned with Arabesque mouldings, while the passages through which I was led were bordered with extracts from the Koran. We passed through a spacious pair of folding doors, with heavy bolts, but not suspended, as our doors are, upon hinges; they are made to move easily, however, by having the jambs formed at each end into axle or pivot, the upper, which is ​the longest, being received into a corresponding locket on the lintel, whilst the other falls into a cavity of like fashion in the threshold. The material of these doors was composed of very handsome wood, and they were richly carved with intersecting geometrical figures. The floor of the room into which the folding doors opened was strewn with mats and rich Rabat carpets, while several coloured leather slippers were scattered about. Heaps of embroidered satin, velvet, and leather cushions, filled the recesses at each end of the room, which were separated from the body of the apartment by the usual indented Moorish arches. I was informed that these were the family bed-rooms. Desirous of displaying to me the riches of her toilet, she ten led me to a richly-painted and gilded box of cedar-wood, and proudly exhibited to me her various robes and garments, which were all highly scented with the perfume of the wood which they were kept in contact. The richest ornament in the way of carving, gilding, and embroidery was introduced in every place where it could be exhibited with due regard to effect and display. The whole of the residence of this lady was tastefully decorated with carved geometrical figures, interlacing each other in all directions, and similar to those which we see ​and admire in the palace of the Alhambra, at Granada.
During the operation of inspecting the apartments of the family and the wardrobe of the lady, in which we were engaged with no slight degree of interest to myself, and apparently with great gratification to her who exhibited all these riches, one of the crew of black slaves to whom I have already alluded, brought in tea, which she placed on a tiny table of mother-of-pearl, of octagon shape, very elegantly formed, and about six inches from the floor. A round tray of brilliantly-polished brass, engraved with devices similar to those I had observed on the walls, supported the various articles of the tea-service. In the process of preparing of the tea, the first operation was to turn over the contents of the sugar-basin into the tea-pot, in which there was a very weak infusion of the cheering draught. The cups were then filled with the insipid beverage, which we had to gulp down, cupful after cupful, in succession. Between each, however, the lady, eager more completely to gratify her own curiosity respecting my costume, which was as strange to her as hers was to me, entered into a new survey of my apparel, the use of many parts of which she seemed at a loss to understand, and particularly ​puzzled herself, when trying on my gloves, by placing each on the wrong hand.
I was also fortunate enough in having an opportunity of witnessing the process of a lady's toilet, and of closely watching the various means by which the Moorish beauty endeavours by art to heighten the charms which nature may have given her. As great rejoicing were going on at this time in a neighbouring house, on account of the birth of a son to a rich official, and my hostess had been invited to take part in them; and as it was now nearly time for her to set off to the house of joy, she proceeded to prepare her toilet, not at all abashed with which I regarded the process. The first thing she did was to paint her face with a white creamy mixture, then to connect the eye-brows by a thick black daub of about half an inch in width, the thickest part coming over the nose. The eyes, also, had an extra tint of al cohol, and the cheeks were painted with two triangular patches of pure scarlet, which, from its coarse colour, and the extreme abruptness of its edges, communicated to them the appearance of a badly-painted mask. An artificial mole or two having been added to complete the adornment of the visage, the face was considered perfect, and regarded with considerable ​satisfaction. Happening to hold up a rose which I held in my hand, its hue absolutely appeared pale beside the highly-coloured cheek of the lady.
After regarding herself in a French circular hand-glass with all the delight with which the most self-satisfied northern beauty can linger on her charms, she turned quickly to me, and, in the enthusiasm of the moment, asked me if ever the English ladies were got up so well. What could I say to her? Should I conceal the truth, or honestly tell her my opinion? This was one of those dilemmas in which it is exceedingly difficult to avoid throwing in a little flattery, even though that agreeable commodity be as little justified by truth as it can well be. Alas, although moralists, with their scholastic pedantry, will say, Dicatur veritas, ruat cœlum, circumstances will occasionally occur in every-day life, in which we find it convenient to forget that our moral code has such strict maxims. Besides, as they are generally in Latin, ladies, unless they are blue-stockings―and they are not asked for their opinion of beauty―are not expected to understand them. I may whisper my opinion, however, to the reader; and when I tell him or her that it amounted to this, that a more repulsive bedaubed figure than that which she presented cannot be imagined, I am sure he will be inclined to treat me with indulgence ​when I acknowledge to him that I did not tell the lady herself so.
To continue my description of her toilet, her head-dress was costly and magnificent beyond all description. It consisted, in the first place, of the richest jewels, the favourite emeralds and pearls predominating among them. They arose in glittering succession, one above another, until, in consequence of the manner in which they were arranged, they assumed the appearance of a magnificent bishop's mitre. The adornment of the head was completed by a knotted silk handkerchief, with which it was surmounted. But with all the richness and splendour of the ornaments, there was such an utter absence of taste in the manner in which they were disposed, that the head and face formed altogether a most grotesque and barbarous spectacle. The remainder of her person was no less profusely covered with sparkling gems. Strings of gorgeous pearls, and antique chains of massive gold, were suspended from her neck. A crimson caftan, or dress, much of the shape of an English gentleman's dressing-gown, was taken from the chest of drawers, and tried on. But its colour suggested a serious objection to it. The unavoidable consideration that it would emulate the rich and glowing scarlet of the cheeks induced the lady to discard it without ​hesitation, and to seek for a more suitable substitute.
The momentous question of what she should wear, therefore, again became the subject of deliberation and after many pros for this, and many cons against that, a decision was at length, with some difficulty, arrived at. A pale blue caftan, embroidered with silver, carried the day. Having found a way for her ample proportions into the selected garment, a somewhat shorter one, of crape-like material, which spangled all over, was thrown over it. Her bodice, which was worn open, was richly embroidered with gold; and one of those superb striped scarfs, which are generally worn in this country, was tied round her not very slender waist. The sleeves of the dress were wide and flowing, leaving the arms, except where they were covered with the peculiar bracelets worn here, quite exposed and bare. These bracelets, which are extremely heavy and massive, consist of solid gold band, with silver and gold projections; and they have been adopted even by some of our own fair countrywomen who have visited Morocco. Her fingers were painted with little sprigs in bright orange henna, as were also her feet, which, to match her hands, were stained with ornaments of the same bright colour. The latter, considering ​the immense proportions of the other parts of her body, were unnaturally diminutive, perhaps appearing by contrast even more so than they really were. They must have been very much impdeded, however, in the process of locomotion, by the ponderous anklets of chased silver, with the burden of which most Moorish women are oppressed. The red slippers which, with one exception, terminate our description of her attire, were made to match the richness of material and ornament the other parts of her dress, being elaborately adorned with embroidery of silver thread and silks of varied colour. All these particular portions of her toilet having been carefully adjusted, a large clear muslin scarf was thrown over her shoulder; and as it retained all its crispness, it produced a remarkably angular effect in the appearance of her immense proportions.
It will be seen from this minute description, that the toilet of a Moorish lady must be a matter of serious consideration; and when there is so much gold and jewels, embroidery and lace-work, as in the present case, it becomes almost a question of art to settle how it all ought to be arranged so as to produce the greatest effect. With my European ideas, I might probably have criticized unfavourably some of the arrangements, and might have imagined ​that it was in my power to give the whole a more advantageous disposition, by a more careful consideration of the manner in which colours should be matched, and jewels displayed; but, as the lady seemed perfectly satisfied with the effect of her own handiwork, and appeared to think that her charms could not be more effectively exhibited, it was not my province to disturb her equanimity by any ideas of mine, which she would probably have scouted as unreasonable and absurd.
The French mirror in which she surveyed herself no doubt told a flattering tale, and was implicitly believed; for mirrors are defective only when they exaggerate defects, as flatterers are false only when they happen, by misadventure, to speak the truth. A German mirror of peculiar construction hung beside the French one. Being composed of various pieces of glass, so arranged as to reproduce the likeness of the object reflected in it, it multiplied, to her intense gratification, her pleasing image at least fifty-fold. After surveying herself in both for some minutes, she gave vent to an expressive sigh of self-satisfied vanity, and turned to me with the hope, doubtless, of meeting a sympathetic gaze of admiration in my eyes.
One touch of lemon to heighten the crimson bloom on the cheeks, and the most secret lore of ​the toilet can do nothing more to add to the effect of her personal charms. She is now ready to take her departure for the house where the important entertainment is to be given. She beckons to me to follow her, and with nothing left visible but one eye, which might be anybody's, for she has enveloped herself, for her passage through the streets, in the ample folds of the large Moorish Haikh, she proceeds to thread her way through some narrow and very dirty lanes.