# A Voyage to the South Atlantic and round Cape Horn into the Pacific Ocean, etc./Chapter 8

1793.The Isles Cocas, was the farthest point to the Northward, to which it was recommended to me, by the Board of Admiralty, to extend my researches; but an anxiety and emulation to ascertain every part, and describe the whole surface of the seas, where the fishery could be extended, would have enlarged the circle of my voyage, if my stock of provisions and stores had been sufficient for such a design: I was therefore obliged to check my intentions, having, for the reasons above-mentioned, time only to examine as far as 24° 0′ North, on the coast and gulf of California, down the coast of Mexico to Isles Socoro, Santo Berto and Rocka Partido, and off the North West point of the gulf of Panama.
​This was an undertaking that few, who had suffered as I had done, from the yellow fever, in the prisons of New Spain, as well as from all the horrors of a rainy season on that coast, would have encountered; but I was persuaded, within myself, that there must be plenty of spermaceti whales on this coast; and it was very evident, that if successful in killing them in the rainy season, it must be much more easily done in the dry season. At all events, I was determined to make the experiment.
On leaving the Isle Cocas, we stood away to the Westward and Northward, in the hope of, avoiding the rain in some degree, by keeping at a small distance from the land.
August 1.On the first of August we were in Latitude by observation 9° 2′, and Longitude corrected 90° 0′ West. We bettered our weather greatly; but the heat was almost intolerable; the thermometer standing at 86°, and the barometer at 29-7-8; the wind now began to vary to the Eastward.
3.On the third of August our Latitude was 9° 30′ and Longitude corrected 89° 44′. The bad weather returned and continued with frequent tornados and heavy rain.
​August 7.On the seventh of August, we saw the famous burning mountain of Guata-mala. From that time, to our crossing the gulf of Tecoantepeak, and reaching point Angels in Latitude 16° and Longitude 100°, there was, for nine days, little or no cessation of calms, and the change that followed was a series of tornados, torrents of rain and tremendous thunder and lightning, more violent than any I ever heard or saw on the coast of Guinea, or off the capes of Virginia in North America. If there was any difference, in the fervid severity of the season, during the twenty-four hours, it was in favor of the day; for in the night the lightning and thunder were most violent. From sun-set till sun-rise, the heavens were one entire flame, which was heightened, by the frequent explosions of the burning mountains. This awful and alarming state of the weather, was accompanied with an almost insufferable heat, and a suffocating, sulphureous air. From the light airs, calms and variable currents, we had little hopes to shift our situation. Thus surrounded, as we were, with these oppressive circumstances, and divided only by a few leagues across the main, from the bay of Honduras, it was impossible to suppress an occasional wish that we were there. A traveller that had visited Peru or its coasts, (where the dews of bounteous Heaven supply every call of rain, and where thunder and lightning are seldom or ​never known, and nature rests in perfect tranquility), would when here, naturally remark, that Providence had blessed the coasts of Peru, by exempting that country from all convulsions to be dreaded from the aerial elements, and doubly bestowed them as a curse on this; unless they are to be considered as a blessing, to impress the untutored Indian inhabitant, "by seeing God in clouds and hearing him in the winds", with a due idea of his Almighty power. It is also to be hoped, that a native and resident in Peru, feels, sometimes, ideas of gratitude and thankfulness towards his maker, for his goodness. We sounded frequently, in the gulf, at twelve or thirteen leagues distance from the shore, and found no bottom with one hundred and fifty fathoms of line: but when in Latitude 14° 57′, and at ten or eleven leagues distant, we got bottom, at one hundred and five fathoms, which was muddy.
August 19.On the nineteenth of August, when two papps over point Angels, bore North East, and our Latitude was 16° 13′ North, we saw a large body of spermaceti whales, and though the spirits of my people, were in some degree depressed, by reflecting on the immense body of water over which we had sailed, the little success which we had hitherto experienced, and our being at lead a seven months voyage from England, they were now elated, with all the eagerness of sanguine expectation. The boats accordingly gave chase, and soon came up ​with the whales, though they were running fast to the Southward, and appeared to be larger than any that had been seen by those in pursuit of them. There being light airs, and calms alternately, the ship followed but slowly: the fishers struck several whales, but were not so fortunate as to kill any of them.
The people in the boats, had now been away several hours, and were so far distant, that the ships top-sails, to them, were in the horizon; the day also was far advanced, and pursuing the whales, in the direction they were running, would be still increasing their distance, without flattering hope, of saving the fish, if they killed them; several water-spouts were visible in the horizon, accompanied by distant thunder and lightning, with a threatening sky; all these circumstances combined, obliged them, for self-preservation, reluctantly to give up the chace, and by the time they reached the ship, from the vast quantity of water they had drank, and the excessive heat of the weather, (which was in no small degree increased by the fatigue undergone, and disappointment occasioned by their fruitless exertions) the whole of my crew were seized with a severe sickness, and one of them was so cramped, that he would certainly have expired, if he had not almost instantly, on his return, been immersed in warm water. Another broke out in a violent rash from head to foot, which, by his plunging ​in that state into the sea, was thrown into his head, and deprived him of his sight for several days; I was very apprehensive, that he would never recover it, but by placing him in warm water, frequently, in the course of the day, the rash returned to his thighs and legs, and by degrees, his sight was restored.
The hope of more favorable weather, and of better success, in our commercial objects, induced me to remain cruising here sixteen days; during which period, we saw whales, three different times, and killed three of them. One was a small one, measuring 15 feet, which we hoisted on board, and of which I made a drawing; its heart was cooked in a sea-pye, and afforded an excellent meal. These whales were very poor, having scarce blubber enough, to float them on the surface of the water, and when skinned, their carcasses sunk like a stone. They yielded altogether but fifteen barrels of oil.
The weather remained unpleasant, there being scarcely any interval for the better, for twenty hours, with a strong Southerly current of half a mile an hour. The whole crew had been, more or less, affected by the yellow fever, from which horrid disorder; I was, however, so fortunate, as to recover them, by ​adopting the method that I saw practised by the natives of Spanish America, when I was a prisoner among them. On the first symptoms appearing, the sore-part of the head was immediately shaved, and the temples, and pole, washed with vinegar and water. The whole body was then immersed in warm water, to give a free course to perspiration; some opening medicine was afterward administered, and every four hours, a dose of ten grains of James's powders. If the patient was thirsty, the drink was weak white wine and water, and a slice of bread to satisfy an inclination to eat. An increasing appetite was gratified by a small quantity of soup, made from the mucilagenous parts of the turtle, with a little vinegar in it. I also gave the sick, sweetmeats and other articles from my private stock, whenever they expressed a distant wish for any, which I could supply them with. By this mode of treatment, the whole crew improved in their health, except the carpenter, who, though a very stout, robust man, was, at one time, in such a state of delirium, and so much reduced, that I gave him over; but he at length recovered.
As the yellow fever seldom attacks any one twice, while he remains near the same place, my apprehensions were now confined to the scurvy and other incidental disorders; ​but they were sufficient to quicken my anxiety, to find a place for refreshment, whenever it might be wanted. For though my crew were at present in good health and spirits, I had learned by my former expeditions, that there is no circumstance which operates more favorably on the temper and disposition of sailors in long voyages, (whenever they are attacked with those diseases to which they are so subject and of course most frequently dread) than the certainty of a port or harbor to which they may be taken; experience having also taught them, that the smell of the shore and change of sea diet, in general, remove the greatest part of their complaints.
We brought plenty of cocoa nuts from Isles Cocos, and there was never wanting a fresh meal of turtle; for they ​were in such numbers floating on the surface of the water, so as to be taken whenever they were required. To this food, we may be said to owe the preservation of our healths, and the crew, in general, grew fat upon it.
Other voyagers have alleged, that living on turtle, causes the flux, scurvy, and fever; I can first account for such a consequence, by its not being sufficiently boiled, or cooked in unclean utensils; and, secondly, every man who has experienced a long voyage, is well informed, that a sudden change of food, and particularly from an ordinary sea or salt diet, to an entirely fresh one, will produce the flux, sickness of stomach, and other complaints. My method, to prevent such effects, was to allow the crew as much vinegar as they could use, and superintend myself the preparation of the seamen's meal. I used to taste the broth, in order to know if it was properly done, that it contained a sufficient quantity of pearl barley, and was duly seasoned by boiling with it salt beef or pork. I also ordered that the proportion of the salt meats cooked with the turtle, should be previously towed and freshened, and when the crew were tired of soup, I gave them flour to make their turtle-meat into pies, and, at other times, fat pork to chop up with it, and make sausages. But in most of their messes, I ​September.took care that so powerful an antiseptic, as sour crout, should not be forgotten.
For the reasons already mentioned, I determined to stretch off to the Westward, to search for Isle Socoro, Santo Berto, and Rocka Partida, but, although I thought it right to leave the coast for the present, I did not give up my opinion, that a whaling voyage might be made in the dry season, which would probably commence within less than two months; at the expiration of which time, I was determined to return. Nothing, indeed, would have deterred me from it, at present, if we had possessed sufficient wind to shift our situation, and keep the run of the fish, or clear weather, to ascertain the true Latitude and distance, from the land, at which we fell in with them.
There were many ports near this, into which I wished to have entered, particularly the famous one of Guatalco, where Sir Francis Drake got a bushel of money, out of one house, in 1579; and, in 1587, Sir Thomas Cavendish, possessed himself of great riches: but being naturally led to believe, that the above circumstances would not be forgot by the natives, and my ill treatment at Nootka, and St. Blas, being also fresh in my memory, I thought it most prudent to give up, for the present, all ideas of going into any harbor on the Spanish coast.
​September 9.On the ninth of September, in Latitude 17° 16′, and. Longitude 102° 32′, we met with as irregular a swell as I ever saw, off Cape Horn, accompanied with very changeable weather, faint lightning round the compass, frequent showers of rain, and light variable winds, blowing North West by West, round the compass, to East South East, and continually shifting till the 17.17th of September, at midnight; when, in a heavy squall of wind from the North West by West, there fell as great a torrent of rain, as I had seen, with tremendous thunder and lightning, which I concluded was the forerunner of the equinoctial gale: on the 17th at noon, our Latitude was 18° 27′ North, Longitude, 109° 0′ West; thermometer 30°, barometer 29 6 4; at this time blowing a strong breeze, and unsettled weather, which, by the 18.eighteenth, at noon, had increased to a perfect storm, from the West North West, with a very heavy sea that we could shew little or no sail, till eight o'clock the same evening; when the weather moderated, thunder, lightning, and rain ceased, and the wind settled in the Western quarter.
20.At daybreak, on the twentieth, we saw the Island of Socoro: a number of those birds that generally follow ​the spermaceti whales, as well as others, of a different species, accompanied us. At five o'clock in the evening, when we were within seven or eight miles of the shore, it being a moon-light night, I sent the chief mate to fish, sound for an anchoring place, and, if possible, to land, in order to discover what this island produced. We stood on and off during the whole night, and, at break of day, found that the current had set us considerably to the Southward and Westward. In the morning, we passed great quantities of pumice stone, and the sea was covered with small shrimps, the common food of the black whale. It being calm, or light winds all night, and the first part of the day, we did not get in with the shore, till two o'clock in the afternoon. We sounded within five miles of it, but found no bottom, with one hundred and fifty fathoms of line.
In the evening, the boat returned, when the mate informed me, that he had sounded off the lee-side of the isle, and could not find a place of safety for the ship to lay in, or a landing for the boat, except in a small cove, near the South point. They had caught a sufficient quantity of fish for all hands, consisting of a kind of cod, snapper, and silver-fish; and they might have taken more, but the sharks, which were very numerous, ran away with the hooks. On the island they ​had gathered a large quantity of beans, known, I believe, by the name of the Spanish broom: they also brought with them a considerable number of prickly pears. As soon as it was light, I sent the boat, with cocoa nuts and garden seeds of every kind, which I caused to be sown in the small cove, at the South point, and stood with the ship off and on till they returned. In the afternoon, being within three or four miles of the cove, we got bottom, at forty-eight fathoms, fine sand. I then sent a boat, to sound between us and the land, as well as to the Westward, when bottom was found at ten fathoms depth, at half a mile from the shore, to fifty fathoms, at three or four miles distance.
By ten the next day, I had coasted the South and West parts of the isle, and sounded frequently, particularly in a small bay, at the North West, where we found good bottom, but it was exposed to the North West winds, which are represented to be the prevailing ones: though I found the winds, in general, Easterly. The unsettled weather we had lately experienced, was sufficient to prevent my anchoring at this season, although in with the isle, unless in a more securely sheltered bay, then I had as yet discovered.
​We saw Isle Santo Berto from the West end of this isle, bearing North 20° East. Having made Socoro and Santo Berto, by the Spanish manuscript chart, which I procured, while a prisoner at St. Blas, and got a sufficient store of beans and prickly pears; I stretched away to search for Rocka Partida and St. Thomas's, by the same chart. Two of the crew were affected with a violent purging and vomiting, from eating too much of the fruits just mentioned. It lasted twenty-four hours, and, in the end, proved beneficial to them. Indeed, we were all in perfect health, except the second mate, who had a lameness and contraction in one of his knees, and had been in an ailing state, ever since we left Rio Janeiro.
Sept. 24.On the twenty-fourth, at nine, A. M. we saw Rocka Partida, on our weather bow, which had the appearance of a sail. By four o'clock, we worked up with it, and found it a dangerous barren rock, laying North, North West, and South, South East, by compass. Its greatest length, is fifty or sixty fathoms: and its breadth, about twenty-five or thirty: both ends are fifteen or twenty fathoms in height. The North West end is forked; the South and East end, is like a ragged hay-cock. The two heights are separated by a ragged saddle, that rises about three or ​four fathoms from the surface of the sea, and is nearly perpendicular. On sounding all around, at a boats length, we had thirty-five fathoms; and, at half a mile distance, fifty fathoms; and then no bottom, with an hundred fathoms of line. It shews itself, on every bearing of the compass, from a small to a great distance, like a sail under a jury-mast. This rock is situated in Latitude 19° 4′ 30″ and Longitude, by observation of Sun and Moon, and chronometer, corrected, 111° 6′ 30″, bearing from the South West end of Isle Socoro, West 15° North, by compass; distant forty-eight miles: the variation, 7° East. I leave the further descriptions of Isles Socoro and Santo Berto, to my return and anchoring at the first mentioned isle, when I had a better opportunity, and more time to make remarks.
At Rocka Partida was a prodigious quantity of fish, but we caught only few, as the sharks destroyed our hooks and lines, and no one on board, but myself, had ever before seen them so ravenous. One of our men reaching over the gun-whale of the boat, a shark of eighteen or twenty feet in length, rose out of the water to seize his hand, a circumstance not uncommon at the Sandwich Isles, where I have seen a large shark take hold of an outrigger of a canoe, and endeavour to overset it. This was in some degree the case with our boat; a number of them continually seizing the steering oar, it became of no use, so that we were obliged to lay it in. The inhabitants of the rock were, ​as many man-of-war hawks as could find a resting place, and a few seals.
Having found the Isles Socoro, Santo Berto, and Rocks Partida, by my manuscript chart, I had every reasonable expectation of seeing also the Isle St. Thomas, which was discovered by a Spaniard, Diego Hurtado, in the year 1533, and by him placed in Latitude 21° 30′; and it was visited afterwards by Gaeten Bestrad, in the year 1542, who places it fifteen miles more to the Northward, than Hurtado; and by all the information I had collected, it lay a small distance to the Westward and Northward of Socoro,
I shaped my course for the situation in which it was placed in my chart; but when I had run the distance, I did not perceive any thing like land, nor any signs of my being near it, except the birds and seals which we frequently saw. I did not, however, entertain the least doubt of its existence, but concluded that I had missed it by sailing too much in a right line from Rocka Partida. The weather being too unfavorable for me to return to the coast of Mexico, I discontinued my search, for the present, after the Isle St. Thomas; and, from the quantity of whales frequenting the coast of California, as mentioned by Mr. Dalrymple, in his history of that country, as well as from the number seen by myself in my preceding voyage, ​and the information I received from the Spaniards, while I I resided among them, I was determined to make a trial of fishing there, till the fair weather came on to the Southward; which might reasonably be expected to begin at Cape Corientes, the latter end of October, or beginning of November. In my route to the coast, I endeavored to make Clipperton's Isle from the best accounts I possessed; but they differed so widely in Latitude, that I was at a loss where to look for it; and, as it was not in my design to come this way when I sailed from England, I had left behind me my manuscript chart of the seas, &c. laying North of Isle Socoro, with all the information I had received from the Spaniards concerning them.
Sep. 29-30.From the twenty-ninth to the thirtieth, we beat to the Northward, in short tacks, with the hope of descrying Clipperton's Isle; we saw frequently man-of-war hawks, and at times a few solitary seals. As we had some expectation of seeing land, every cloud that rose in the horizon was declared, by the seamen, to be the object in search: but as I could not be persuaded it was, I did not think proper to pursue the various momentary opinions which frequently were started,
October 4.On the fourth of October, in Latitude 23° 15′, we made the coast of California. The winds from the time of our leaving Socoro, blew from North North East, to North North West, westing as we made the land of California, with very pleasant weather, but sometimes cloudy. On our passage we saw a few turtles, with killers, por​poises, and black-fish: the latter were innumerable as we approached the land.
October 12.We cruized off this coast till the twelfth, seeing only the kind of fish already mentioned, with the addition of some fin-back and hump-back whales; so that we had no inducement to remain there, after we had ascertained that the species of whale on this coast is of no value. Our cruising ground was between the Latitudes 23° and 25°, and Longitude 112° and 113°, off a remarkable mountain near Cape St. Lazarus; to which I have given the same name: I make it to be in Latitude 25° 15′, and Longitude 112° 20′. To the South of it, is very low land, till within a few leagues of Cape St. Lucas, which makes the South point of California, when the land rises to such an eminence, as to be seen at the distance of twenty leagues: but the Cape itself is of a very moderate height. Though the weather was fair and pleasant, it was so hazy while we were on this low and dangerous coast, as to require a continual employment of the lead. We frequently got soundings with seventy fathoms of line at the distance of nine leagues from the shore.
I am ready to confess, that I was deceived respecting the species of whale which I saw when I was ​on the coast before; and at this time the hump-back whale was so much larger than generally believed, and spouted in a manner so different from their usual mode of throwing up the water, that the most experienced fishermen I had on board believed them to be black whale, and pursued them as such; and I very much doubt whether that species of whale, which the Spaniards call the small whale, is any other than black fish. This opinion was confirmed by a whaler, with whom I fell in company some time after. He had come down the coast of California, and boasted of the number of spermaceti whales which he had seen. I was very much astonished that, provided as he was for the purpose, he had not even attempted to kill one of them. But he soon satisfied my doubts on the subject: for being with me on board the Rattler, and seeing a shoal of black fish, he insisted that they were spermaceti whales. While I thus discovered his ignorance, I had reason to be satisfied with myself, in having been able to ascertain, from the deck of my ship, the difference between these two species of whale, but this I must acknowledge, that black fish, in their feeding and mode of spouting, resemble the spermaceti whale nearer than any other fish hitherto known.
​On the twelfth at noon, Cape St. Lucas, the North Cape to the gulf of California, bore North twelve of thirteen leagues. I make this cape by the mean of a number of observations, of Sun, Moon, and Stars, in Latitude 22° 45′, and Longitude 110°. The sea, at this time, was almost covered with turtles, and other tropical fish. At four, A. M. we saw a large spermaceti whale, which we struck and got fast: but night coming on, the irons drew, and it was lost. We cruized between the Cape Corientes, the South cape of the gulf of California, and the northernmost of Maria Isles, till the seventh of November, and saw great numbers of spermaceti whales, some of them the largest we had ever seen, but we may be truly said to be unfortunate, as we only killed two of them.
Two of the crew, who complained of some scorbutic symptoms, Nov. 1.on the first of November, were now growing worse; and, as several others were apprehensive of being attacked by this terrible disorder, it became necessary for me to repair to some port, where a proper attention might be paid to the invalid part of my people.
Our cruizing was generally at the distance of from three to seven leagues to the Westward of the Isles Tres Marias, the largest of which has been said to ​have a good road, and to afford various articles of refreshment: but the French navigator, Monsieur Sauvage le Muet, who visited these isles in this month, in the year 1741, mentions, that his crew grew worse while he remained there.
The healthy season, which was now only beginning at St. Blas, situated in the mouth of the river St. Jago, at little more than twenty leagues from them, might not extend to those isles so early as November; and, in the bad season, at that place, it is not uncommon for six or seven of the natives to die in the course of a day, out of the small number of five or six hundred inhabitants. Besides, I could not help recurring, with many a melancholy thought, to the fate of my crew, in my former voyage, when we were captured by the Spaniards at Nootka, carried to St. Blas, and treated with the greatest inhumanity. I was determined, therefore, not to risk a second capture and imprisonment by the Spaniards, which would not have been improbable, if we had anchored at the Tres Marias: the launches from the royal dock at St. Blas, frequently visiting these isles, in order to get flax and lignum vitæ: nor have I the least doubt of their attempting it, if ​they had found me there in so capital a ship as the Rattler, and in so defenseless a state as she then was, armed with only two three-pounders, and half a dozen old musquets.
​The Tres Marias, or the islands, so named by the Spaniards, off which we had been cruizing, are four in number, if the Isle Saint John is included, which is not ​more than six miles distant from the Northernmost. There are also many small rocks, whose heads just rise above the water. All these islands are covered with wood, and ​lay between the Latitude of 21° 15′ and 22° and Longitude 107° West. The center isle is the largest; the Northernmost, which is named Saint John, is low and tabling, ​but of the most pleasant appearance. The others are of great height, and may be seen at the distance of sixteen or eighteen leagues. The Northernmost is distant from ​Cape St. Lucas, which is the North Cape of the Gulf of California, is sixty-five leagues; and the southernmost is distant from Cape Corientes, which is the South Cape ​of that Gulf, sixteen leagues. Between these isles, and about half-way to the main, are other small isles, called the Isabellas, which are remarkable for appearing, in all ​situations, when at a small distance, like ships under sail. That part of the gulf, which lies between the Tres Marias and the main, forms a deep bay of fifteen or twenty leagues, and affords a good and safe anchorage, having regular soundings from the shore, and at the distance of four or five miles, five fathom; but whether the soundings extend to the Tres Marias, I have had no opportunity to inform myself: but when the Isabellas bore North, half East, distant five miles, I had good anchorage in twenty fathom water, muddy bottom.
The native Indians have a large establishment in this bay, known, in most of the charts, by the name of Mazatlan, but pronounced by the Creole Spaniards, Mauskelta town. It is remarkable for the great quantity of large fish, not unlike salmon in size and shape, which, during the summer season, are taken in the mouth of a small river near it: but previous to the capture of the vessels under my command, the inhabitants were unacquainted with a proper method of salting them. In this useful science they were instructed by some of my crew, who had been employed in the Newfoundland fisheries. ​Several other shallow rivers empty themselves into this bay, the principal of which is called Saint Jago, on whose Southern side, at the distance of two or three miles from the mouth, is situated the town of Saint Blas, that contains the grand arsenal and dock-yard of the province of Mexico, and is the chief depot for all the riches collected in the Californias. The principal store-houses and treasury are built on a small mount, that rises in the middle of the marsh which joins the dock-yard, and is about two miles from it. The face of the mount towards the sea is a perpendicular rock of one hundred fathom, and presents a very formidable appearance; but, on the land side, gradually sinks in several places to the plain. In the rainy season, when I was there, the marsh was so overflowed, as to render it a matter of difficulty to pass on foot to the dock-yard. There are not even at spring tides, more than ten or twelve feet water on the bar, ​at the entrance of the river, and the frigates belonging to the station in the Gulf of California, though they are capable of carrying fifty guns, are constructed so, as to pass over the bar, and to protect the settlements on the gulf, from the attacks of the native Indians; who are continually at war with the Spaniards, particularly on the East side, which is said to contain the richest mines of gold, that have been yet discovered; besides several of silver.
The deepest water at the entrance of this river is close along side the North point: where, on a gentle ascent, there is an irregular battery of fourteen or fifteen pieces of cannon, of different bores, which they fetched from Acapulco, in one of my vessels.
If I am correct in my recollection, for I have lost all the minutes I made on the subject, it is high water on the bar of the river, at full and change, at ten o'clock, and the tide flows only eight or ten feet.
​When the marine stores, &c. were brought by the way of Europe and Vera Cruz, a distance of eighteen hundred miles, on the backs of mules, Acapulco was the grand dock-yard; but since these supplies for the navy have been procured at a far cheaper rate by the way of China and Manilla, the naval arsenal has been removed to Saint Blas; before I left that place, the Viceroy of Mexico was so alarmed, least the Court of Great-Britain should revenge the insult offered her by the capture of my vessels, that, fearful of trusting to his flat-floored vessels, &c. &c. he had ordered two heavy frigates of a sharp construction, to be built in the valley of Banderra, which is situated a few leagues to the East of Cape Corientes, for the better protection of the arsenal.
As I conceived it would be an act of the greatest imprudence to anchor even near a Spanish port, I determined to return to the Isle Socoro, in order to recover the health of the crew. Nov. 12.We made the isle on the twelfth day of November, and by the evening got west up with the North end; the Isle Santo Berto being only eight leagues distance, and my not having had opportunity to ascertain whether it afforded a better anchoring place than Socoro, determined me to examine it. We lay too all night for day-break, to make sail, and by noon, got within three or four miles of the South end of ​Santo Berto, when our Latitude by observation was 19° 15′, and Longitude corrected, 109° 54′. At this point, the island had a barren appearance, with little or no vegetation. It lay in a North East, and South West direction, is about six miles in length, and two or three in breadth, with a few rocks just appearing above water off different parts of it. Its surface is uneven, and its appearance romantic; and, at the distance of nine or ten miles, has the resemblance of two separate isles. We saw some seals there, and a great number of men-of-war hawks on the bluff, at the South end. On the West side, is a small bay, but, as it disappointed my expectations, I did not land, or try for soundings in it. As the hurricane month and unsettled weather were not as yet over, and I knew of no secure anchoring place at Socoro, where I could with safety overhaul my rigging, and break up the hold, which we stood in great need of, prepondering at the same time in my mind, that the Isle St. Thomas's did actually exist, and was not far distant: I stretched away to the Westward in search of it, till we made 7° westing, and reached the Longitude 118° West, in Latitude 20° 30′. I administered to the crew who were afflicted with the scurvy, twenty drops of elixir of vitriol, and half a pint of wine, three times a day, with some preserved fruits, fresh bread, and pickles, from my own ​stores, and they began to mend. In our course, land birds, frequently flew on board, particularly small grey owls, about the size of a black-bird; we were visited also by large horned owls, and brown hawks, as well as some of the size of our sparrow-hawks. They did not, however, come in such numbers as when we were off the Tres Marias and the Coast of California. From the above circumstances we were disposed to believe, we were in the vicinity of land: But I was more particularly encouraged in my hopes of seeing land, when, in Latitude 20° 25′, and Longitude 113° 27′ West, having fallen in with five or six wild ducks, the whaling master pursued them for some time in the boat; but, though they were not shy, he was not so fortunate as to kill one of them. Having joined the track of my former voyage in the Argonaut from St. Blas, which stretched 4° 30′ more to the Westward in the same Latitude, I gave up the idea of the island, which was the object of my immediate search, laying to the Westward of me; and not falling in with it on my return to Socorro, I cannot account for its situation, unless, according to the opinion of some modern hydrographers, it should be the Island Socoro itself.
​Nov. 24.On the twenty-fourth day of November, at day-light, we saw Rocka Partida, and passed to the Northward of it. At noon, on the same day, Socoro bore East by South, distant, seven or eight leagues.
25.On the following day, at noon, we got within a few miles of the South West end of that island: Latitude, by observation, 18° 49′ North. The boats were now hoisted out to search for an anchoring birth; and a small bay soon after appeared, which was formed by the South West and South terminations of the isle, wherein soundings were obtained, at twenty-five fathom, with a sandy bottom. We accordingly shortened sail, and came to anchor, at about the distance of two miles from the nearest part of the shore; the extremes of the island bearing from West North West to East South East; two small sandy beaches bearing from North by East, to North North East.
26.On the twenty-sixth, A. M., I permitted the greatest part of the crew to go on shore, at a small cove, which was the only good landing place; and also put two men on shore abreast the ship, to look for water. In the evening they all returned, with a considerable store of prickly pears, beans and fish; the latter were of the snapper kind, and ​weighed from four to eight pounds. Those of the crew who had perceived any symptoms of the scurvy laid themselves for some time, in the fresh earth, and derived considerable benefit from it: those who advanced up the country, saw many trees laying in a decayed state on the ground, which appeared to be of a much larger size than any that were standing; but they saw no spring or pool of fresh water, and were not encouraged to continue their search for it, as the surface of the ground was covered with a fine loose cinder, that rendered the walking over it laborious and difficult; and it was the less necessary to undergo further fatigue, as we had plenty of water on board; and I was, at this time, in such a state of health, as rendered me incapable of attending upon any inland expedition. In the North East part of the island, where the ground was more firm, we afterwards found small quantities of water, lodged in the cavities of rocks; but, as that must have been supplied by showers, such resources must not only be insufficient, but uncertain. I have, however, no doubt, but that on the North East bay, wells might be made, that would produce plenty of good water; at least, the soil is such, as to encourage such an expectation: but a very heavy gale drove us to sea, before I was sufficiently recovered to make the experiment. The garden seeds which had been sown here, on our former visit, ​were not come up, and the cocoa nuts, though they were in a growing state when we planted them, had decayed in the earth.
When we first came too, off this bay, the wind was light to the Eastward; but, at day-light, it blew strong from the North West, and West North West, and continued so till Nov. 27.eight in the evening of the twenty-seventh, when it became calm. During the whole of this day, the crew were suffered to go on shore; and, on its proving calm, we shortened in the cable: but at midnight, by some unaccountable accident, the anchor tripped; however, the ship most fortunately did not drive on shore, if she had, would inevitably have been lost, as rocks extend for some distance off both points of the bay, and the light airs, which at intervals had blown, were mostly along the land. Not a person on board had the least suspicion of what had happened till two o'clock in the morning.
It was a singular circumstance, that having been restless during the whole of the night, I quitted my bed at this hour, and went upon deck, when I mentioned to the officer of the watch, my suspicion of the ship's driving, ​from the sound of the surf changing alternately on the points of the bay. I therefore ordered the deep sea-lead to be thrown overboard, and getting no bottom at forty fathom, my conjectures were instantly confirmed. We now wore away fifty fathom of cable, but not bringing up, and a light breeze blowing, at the same time, off the land, we backed off shore, with the yards and mizen-top-sail. I can account for this accident in no other way, then from the too great length of the buoy rope, which, by the blowing of the variable light winds and the ship's swinging, had catched in her heel and weighed the anchor, which, with our crippled windlass, employed us five hours to heave up.
Nov. 28.I now determined to have a tent pitched on shore and land the sickly part of my crew, together with the second mate, who still continued to be in an infirm state, and beat off with the ship, till they should be recovered. At noon, they were all got on shore, and I left them the jolly-boat, to enable them to catch fish; a diet at once both salutary and refreshing to persons in their situation. In the afternoon, we stood in with the North East point, and kept the lead going, when we found regular soundings at five or six miles, and from thirty-eight to ten fathom, at one mile and an half from shore; at the same time we were sheltered from the North ​East, to West by South. I now made a stretch off, bent my best bower, unstowed the other anchors, tacked and stood in, and came to in ten fathoms water. The North East point bearing North, 45° East; the highest mount North, 33° 45′ West; the bottom of the bay North, 56° 15′ West; the Eastern point forming the entrance to the Cove, West; and the South point, West by South. In this situation we lay two days and a night, all hands on shore during the day, except one boat's crew: on the the third day, the current began to run to the North East, at the rate of two and an half, or three miles an hour, from which cause, we lay uneasy at single anchor. I was unwilling to moor with my bowers, as our windlass was in such a state as to render the heaving up an anchor a matter of great toil and delay; nor had we any boat to carry out a kedge sufficiently heavy to steady the ship.
Although the weather did not present the most promising appearance, and the winds Easterly, yet, as the current run to the windward, I entertained hopes of a long continuance of fine weather, which I always found at the Sandwich Isles, when the Northerly current ran there. I was, however, mistaken; for in the night of the first ​Dec. 1.of December, the barometer fell suddenly from 30-1 to 29-5-5, the winds hourly varied from East to South, with squalls, heavy showers of rain, continual lightning, and distant thunder; which being on the approach of the new moon, such an alteration in the weather might be an expected event: but as the barometer had never deceived me, I was not satisfied with its sudden change, and at the same time entertaining doubts of the cable being injured, as the ship had broke her shear frequently during the night, I became very anxious for the dawn of day, to purchase the anchor. At day-light, all round the horizon, and particularly from the South, threatened an instant hurricane, which left me not a moment to hesitate for the safety of the ship, and with only eight hands on board, including myself, we rove a purchase, weighed the anchor, and went to sea. As I conjectured, we found the cable so rubbed and worn as obliged us to cut off twenty fathoms from it.
As soon as the sun had crossed the meridian, the heavy squalls, and frequent showers of rain commenced, which continued to increase till the change of the moon, at two o'clock, in the morning, when it blew so strong as to reduce us to close-reefed top-sails; and as the gale freshened so quick on us, we had not strength enough on board to shorten any more sail, we were therefore obliged to carry it. We ​had now an heavy sea, torrents of rain, accompanied with thunder and lightning, and winds from every point of the compass, though principally from East to South East, which blew right into the roads we had left; and it is more than probable, from the state of our cable, and not laying more than a mile and an half from the shore, that, if we had attempted to ride out the gale, the ship would have been lost. It was, indeed, one of the worst nights I had experienced since I left Cape Horn.
Dec. 3.On the third day of December, we got in with the shore again, and observing the jolly-boat alone, I felt the severest anxiety respecting the other boat and crew. We hove too, with the head off shore, and the whaling master was dispatched with every one on board, except myself, to ascertain what had become of them. Fortunately no accident had happened, except the wetting they had undergone from the violence of the rain, and the whale boat which I had missed, with some solicitude, had been taken by them on a fishing party, in order to bring a supply of fish on board the ship. I allowed the sick crew one day more to be on shore, and changed the party which was on board during the gale, to accompany them. During the whole ​night the weather was showery, with occasional lightning. The winds were well to the Eastward, and next day so much so, that I was obliged to carry a press of sail, to weather the North East points of the island, and could not therefore take the people from off the shore.
Dec. 4.On the fourth, at day-break, the winds inclining to the Northward, we run down off the cove, and got our tent and all hands on board by noon, anchors stowed, cables unbent, and made sail to the North East, for the Coast of Mexico, with the crew in perfect health, except the second mate; who, though he was much recovered, was still in a weakly and sickly condition. It may not be unnecessary for me to remark, that those of the crew who had any eruption on them of a scorbutic kind, I recommended them to bruise the prickly pear, and to apply the same in manner of a poultice, from which they not only found great relief, but it speedily recovered them, and much sooner than would have generally been credited.
Socoro, in the Spanish language, means supply; but during our stay at that island, we were not so fortunate as to discover any great affinity between the name, and character of the place. To this and the adjacent isles, I have given the name of Rivella Gigeda, after the viceroy of Mexico, as ​the only return of gratitude as yet in my power, for the many acts of kindness and civility I received from him.
From a variety of observations of Sun, Moon, and Stars, I determine the Isle of Socoro to be in Latitude 18° 48′ North, Longitude 110° 10′ West, and bearing from Cape Corientes West, 22° South, distant ninety leagues. It lays in a West North West, and East South East direction; its greatest extent is eight leagues, and it is about three leagues in breadth. It may be said to consist of one mountain, which may be seen at the distance of twenty leagues, and falls in gradual descent at all points on the South side. It is in a great measure covered with brush-wood, intermixed with the low prickly pear-trees, and occasionally shaded with other trees of a larger growth. Some few spots of the soil are black and barren, as if fire had lately issued near it; and the top of the high land at a distance, has the appearance of there having been formerly a volcano: the surface is of a whitish colour, like that of the pumice stone, which was found on the shore. But though this may denote the existence of former eruption, I did not perceive either fire or smoke to issue from any part of the island. It must, however, be acknowledged, that Socoro is an excellent place of resort for a vessel with a scorbutic crew, or to refit if engaged in a cruise against the Spaniards off the Coast of Mexico, or employed in the whaling service.
​The vegetables we found and considered as wholesome esculents, were beans and the molie tree, from whose leaves was made a very wholesome tea, of an aromatic smell and pleasant taste: but it is much smaller than that described by Mr. Falkner, though it was from his description of its leaf and fruit that I discovered it. The prickly pear, which is a very sovereign antiscorbutic, grows here also in great exuberance: it is of two kinds, white and red; but the former is considered as the most efficacious, and furnished us with the means of procuring many wholesome, as well as palatable, pies and puddings. The animal food which we procured here, consisted of crows, owls, doves, black-birds, thrushes, sparrows, finches, and humming birds; besides water fowl—such as teal, sand larks, and various other sea birds, in great numbers. The fish we took were land-crabs, sea-crabs, craw-fish, colche with semicircular mouths, limpets, oysters, and other shell-fish. To these may be added cod, rays, eels, and all those that are usually taken in tropical latitudes. The only novelty I found among the deep water fish, was one which bore some resemblance to the parrot fish, with a large hump ​of fat on the back part of its head. Of turtle, we saw only two, and caught neither of them. But with all this abundance of fish, it is a matter of some difficulty to obtain them, from the number and size of the sharks, who very frequently seized the whole of our prey, before we could draw them out of the water. Of quadrupeds, there were none visible to us: but of insects and reptiles, there were great numbers—such as spiders, flies, musquitoes, grass-hoppers, crickets, and butterflies; with scorpions, lizards, and snakes. But the dearth of fresh water is the most uncomfortable and discouraging circumstance belonging to this island, though I am very much disposed to believe that an island of this extent, and whose summit is continually covered with clouds, must have running streams on it: at the same time, the large flights of teal which are frequently seen coming from the interior parts of the island, strengthened my conjecture that it contains lakes pools, or springs, though it was not our good fortune to discover them.
The seasons of the year being considered, I think the safest anchorage from June to December is, between the South and South West points, opposite to two white coral beeches, which are the first two in succession from the South point of the island towards the West. It is ​the place where we first anchored, and remarkable from the pinnacle rocks which lay close off the West point of the bay. I prefer this place in the bad season, as the wind seldom blows more than two points to the Southward of the East. In the good season, however, that is, from the latter end of December till the beginning of June, I prefer the South East bay, being better anchorage and nearer to the cove, which was the only good landing place we discovered, and is easily known, being a stony beech at the first inlet in the shore to the Eastward of the South point: all other part of the coast on the South side of the island is iron bound, which makes it extremely difficult, if not impossible to land, except in very fine weather.
According to the accounts given of the winds in this Latitude by former navigators, the South East bay would at all times afford a secure anchorage; but I found it otherwise: though such a change might be owing to the seasons falling later now than formerly, or in one year later than another. The Buccaneers assert, and Lord Anson confirms their assertion, that at the time he was cruizing for the Galeon, there was no reason to apprehend danger on the Coast of Mexico, from the middle of October till May. But my journal will shew, from ​what we experienced, the beginning or middle of January is full early to expect good weather, for cruising, or fishing. To the Southward of Cape Corientes, and to the Northward of it Cape St. Lucas, the lightning, thunder and heavy rains had not subsided the beginning of November; and had not my crew been rather in a state of convalescence, I would have returned to the Northward for better weather. The Spaniards themselves never leave the Port of Saint Blas for Acapulco, till the latter end of November, when the North winds set in and blow steadily.
* ↑ I do not pretend to any other medical knowledge, but such as I may have acquired, by some little reading on medical subjects, and the attention I was obligated to pay to the diseases and complaints of seamen, in the various voyages I have made, as it frequently became a nice point to judge, whether a man neglected his duty from idleness or sickness. I also paid particular attention to the practice of the different Indian rations, when an opportunity was afforded me, and from the circumstance of having no surgeon on board, it became a duty in me, to make part of my study, such an important subject, as the health of my crew; and I was so fortunate as to succeed in the applications I used, as to restore health through means, which the suggestions of the moment only dictated to me.
* ↑ As there have been various misrepresentations of the real state and progress of the transactions between Don Martinez, commander of certain ships in the service of his most Catholic Majesty at Nootka Sound, and several trading vessels belonging to subjects of Great Britain, which threatened to produce a rupture between the two courts; and, as those misrepresentations may be hereafter repeated, I shall beg leave to give a fair and correct statement of those transactions, so far as I was unfortunately involved in them: the rest of that unpleasant business is detailed at large, and accompanied by authentic documents, in the Appendix to the voyage of Captain Mears, published in London, 1790. It is unnecessary upon this occasion, to have recourse to any circumstances in that unfortunate voyage, prior to the time when I appeared off Nootka, viz. the third day of July, 1789. At nine in the evening, when it was almost dark, we hailed a boat; and the persons in it desiring to come on board, their request was immediately granted. It proved to be a Spanish launch, with Don Estevan Martinez, commodore of some Spanish ships of war, then lying in Friendly Cove: we were visited at the same time by another Spanish launch, and the boat of an American ship. I had no sooner received Don Martinez in my cabin, than he presented me a letter from Mr. Hudson, commander of the Princess Royal Sloop, which was under my orders. The commodore then informed me, that the vessels under his command were in great distress, from the want of provisions and other necessaries; and requested me, in a very urgent manner, to go into port, in order to afford him the necessary supplies. I hesitated, however, to comply with this demand, as I entertained very reasonable doubts, of the propriety of putting myself under the command of two Spanish men of war. The Spaniard observing my unwillingness to comply with his request, assured me, on his word and honor, in the name of the King of Spain, whose servant he was, and of the Viceroy of Mexico, whose nephew he declared himself to be, that, if I would go into port and relieve his wants, I should be at liberty to sail whenever I pleased. He also added, that his business at Nootka was for no other purpose, than merely to prevent the Russians from settling on that part of the coast, and that it joined a leading principle of his instructions, as it was his private inclination, to pay all becoming respect and attention to every other nation. I am ready to acknowledge that the story of his distresses, and the letter of Mr. Hudson, which appeared to be deserving of credit, had very considerable weight with me: besides, I was an officer in his Britannic Majesty's service; and might be, in some degree, influenced by a professional sympathy. I therefore suffered myself to be persuaded to enter the harbour; and, as it was a calm, to let the Spanish boats assist in towing the Argonaut into Friendly Cove; where we arrived by twelve at night, and found an American ship called the Columbia, riding at anchor, commanded by Mr. Kendric, and a sloop of the same nation, called the Washington, commanded by Mr. Gray; with two Spanish ships of war, called the Princessa, and Don Carlos. The next morning, after I had ordered some provisions and stores for the relief of Don Martinez to be got ready, I went to breakfast with him, in consequence of his invitation. After breakfast he accompanied me on board my ship, the Argonaut; I gave him a list of the articles I intended to send him, with which he appeared highly pleased. I then informed him it was my intention to go to sea in the course of the day: he replied, he would send his launch to assist me out of the harbour, and that I might, on the return of the boat, send him the promised supply. The launch not coming as early as I wished, I sent one of the mates for her, but instead of bringing me the boat, I received an order from Don Martinez, to come on board his ship and bring with me my papers. This order appeared strange, but I complied with it, and went on board the Princessa. On my coming into his cabin, he said he wished to see my papers: on my presenting them to him, he just glanced his eyes over them, and although he did not understand a word of the language in which they were written, declared they were forged, and threw them disdainfully on the table, saying at the same time, I should not sail until he pleased. On my making some remonstrances at his breach of faith, and his forgetfulness of that word and honor which he had pledged to me, he arose in an apparent anger, and went out. I now saw, but too late, the duplicity of this Spaniard, and was conversing with the interpreter on the subject, when having my back towards the cabin door, I by chance cast my eyes on a looking-glass, and saw an armed party rushing in behind me. I instantly put my hand to my hanger, but before I had time to place myself in a posture of defense, a violent blow brought me to the ground. I was then ordered into the stocks, and closely confined; after which, they seized my ship and cargo, imprisoned my officers, and put my men in irons. They sent their boats likewise to sea and seized the sloop Princess Royal, and brought her into port, for trading on the coast. It may not be amiss to observe, that the Spaniards consider it contrary to Treaty, and are extremely jealous, if any European power trades in those seas, but this cannot justify Don Martinez, who, not content with securing me and my people, carried me from ship to ship, like a criminal, rove a halter to the yard-arm, and frequently threatened me with instant death, by hanging me as a pirate. This treatment, at length, nearly cost me my life; and threw me into so violent a fever, that I was delirious for several days: After recovering, I was sent in my own ship prisoner to St. Blas a Spanish port in the Gulf of California. On my passage thither, I was confined in the Mate's-Cabin, (a place not six feet square) for two and thirty days, with a scanty supply of miserable provisions, and a short allowance of water. The British part of my ship's company, with two officers, were confined in the sail room with their feet in irons, and kept in a state too shocking to relate, and which decency forbids me to describe. In going into the harbour, the Spaniards ran the ship aground and damaged her bottom. On landing, few of my people had any change of clothes, for the Spaniards had broke open their chests and plundered them; however, when under the care of the Governor of St. Blas, we were better treated, being permitted to walk about the town, in charge of a guard of soldiers, and allowed sufficient provisions. About this time the Princess Royal and crew arrived, and shared the same fate. Soon after, under a promise that our detention could not be long, they persuaded us to heave down and repair the Argonaut, new copper her bottom, and fit new rigging. The idea of release stimulated us to work on the ship with great alacrity, so much so, that our exertions threw several into fevers; and on the vessel being nearly ready, the Governor threw off the mask, informing us she was to be employed for their use, and laughed again at our credulity. This treatment, added to little thefts committed on us with impunity, worked on the minds of the sickly part of the crew, several of whom took it to heart and died, and one destroyed himself in despair. Not being Catholics, we were ordered to inter them on the sea-beech. After we had buried them, the Native Creoles dug up the bodies of one or two, and left them to be devoured by the dogs and vultures. On the same day the Spaniards sailed with our vessel, we were removed to Tepeak, a place sixty miles up the country: here we were allowed great liberty, and better treatment; and more particularly so on the arrival of Don Bodega Quadra, who was commander of his Catholic Majesty's squadron, on the Coast of California. To this officer I am greatly indebted for his kind attention, and obtaining permission for me to go to Mexico, to claim redress for our past treatment. On my arrival at Mexico, and during my residence there, I was treated by the Viceroy, Don Rivella Gigeda, with great politeness and humanity, and indeed by all ranks of people in that City. This Viceroy, in the most handsome manner, gave me an order to take possession of my vessel, and a passport directed to all classes of his subjects, to render me every service I stood in need of whilst in his government: and such was his noble and generous treatment during my continuance of some months in Mexico and his subsequent correspondence, that I am bound to acknowledge my lasting gratitude to him. I also understood the conduct of Martinez had, upon its being investigated, occasioned him very severe disgrace. On my return to St. Blas, I found the Spaniards were unloading my vessel, which had been laden with corn; and during my absence, they had sent her to Acapulco for guns and broke her back; she was not only hogged, but otherwise greatly damaged, and they had also made use of every part of the stores, cargo and provisions useful to them. For these they made out an account on a partial valuation of their own, and with an affected display of liberality, calculated and allowed wages to my people, which they counterbalanced by charging them with maintenance, travelling expenses, medical assistance, &c. &c. and also for an allowance of eight months stores and provisions, in which were included our beef and pork, which we were obliged to salt before we put to sea under a vertical sun. After all, our departure was retarded, by their insisting I should sign a paper, expressing my complete and entire satisfaction of their usage to me and my people. As the fever began again to make its appearance among some of my crew, and the rest being extremely clamorous to depart, I was obliged, however, reluctantly, to submit. At length after thirteen months captivity, we obtained permission to sail, with orders to go to Nootka, and take possession of the Princess Royal, whose crew I had with me, although the Spaniards must have well known it was impossible for me to have fallen in with her there, as appeared by the orders which the Spanish commander had on board, when I met with him by accident some time afterwards at the Sandwich Isles. Thus on the approach of winter, in a miserable vessel, badly equipped, and worse victualled, we sailed from St. Blas, altogether in such a situation, that from the numberless accidents we suffered in consequence of our bad outfit, my arrival at Macao appeared almost miraculous. On my arrival at China, the resident agent D. Beal, Esq., who had taken no small degree of pains to inform himself of every particular concerning my capture, paid such of the crew as survived the wages due to them, and requested me once more to embark in the same concern, on a voyage to Japan and Corea. I readily consented, and he fitted me out at great expense, and in his instructions to me, dated Canton, July 25, 1791, He says—"After the mortifications and disappointments you have already experienced, from the capture of your vessels by the Spaniards, it may be an additional circumstance of regret, should disappointment and ill-fortune still pursue you: you must, however, console yourself, by reflecting that no imputation rests against your character or conduct, for the violence and depredations committed by the Spaniards". This language from so respectable a character was truly pleasing, and as an additional proof of his confidence, he sent his brother with me as supercargo. But afterwards how great was my surprise, on hearing Mr. Mears had taken advantage of my absence, and published in England an account of me so contrary to truth! In his appendix to his voyage, speaking of the fever and delirium with which I was afflicted whilst in the hands of the Spaniards, he had stated on Mr. Duffin's ill-founded authority, that the delirium attending that fever was a family infirmity, and after wounding the feelings of all connected with me published the following by way of apology and reparation: January 1, 1791. "It is with particular satisfaction that I possess the opportunity of contradicting the mis-information of Mr. Duffin, relative to Captain Colnett's illness, in his letter to me from Nootka Sound, published in my memorial to the House of Commons, No. 9, and in the appendix to my voyages. No. 13: Mr. Duffin there mentions, but I am sure very innocently, that Mr. Colnett's insanity is supposed to be a family disorder; it therefore becomes my duty to declare, from the best authorities, that such a report is distant of any foundation whatever." On my return to England in 1792, part of the money produced by the sale of the furs, mentioned in my introduction, was placed in one of the first banking houses in London, in the names of Messrs. Mears and Etches, to pay the amount ascertained at that time which was due to the heirs or assigns of such of the seamen as died on the voyage. If there are any monies remaining due to their representatives, &c. for loss of clothes and private property not yet settled, I am not accountable. The most particular papers relating to the transaction at Nootka, being lost in his Majesty's frigate the Hussar which I had the honour to command in December, 1796, I have here given as circumstantial a detail as I can remember, from so long a period as nine years past.
* ↑ The salting of this fish proved, however, a very unpleasant circumstance to us, as it occasioned our being employed to salt beef and pork for a fleet, then fitting out in the spring, at Saint Blas; with which the Spaniards were so well satisfied, that they took for themselves all the European salt provisions they found on board the vessels which they had captured, in having no doubt, but we could salt our own provisions when we should be released, which happened at the time the Sun was vertical; in consequence of which, though we did contrive, by cutting the meat in small pieces, to make it take the salt, yet, when we got out to sea, it was totally spoiled, and we were threatened with famine.
* ↑ The shore in the bay is low; but the in-land mountains are very lofty; one of them which has the most singular appearance, is called Tepeak, and may be seen at the distance of thirty leagues. Here, myself and those of my officers and crew who survived the yellow fever at St. Blas, passed the six latter months of our captivity.
* ↑ Of the species unknown before were the Large Toothed Nevite, the Ribbed Green Turbo, and the Buccinum Dentex.