# A Voyage of Discovery and Research in the Southern and Antarctic Regions/Volume 2/Chapter 12

Cockburn Island and Admiralty Inlet. Page 322.
CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XII.
On the morning of the 17th of December we sailed 1842. Dec. 17.from Port Louis, upon our third visit to the antarctic regions, selecting the meridian of 55° W., where I was in expectation of meeting with a continuation of Louis Philippe's Land, and hoped, by following the coast line to the south-eastward, keeping between the land and pack, to combine the survey of its shores with the attainment of a high latitude; but, determined, in the event of meeting with any insuperable obstruction, to relinquish our attempt in that quarter, and endeavour to follow the track of Weddell, by which he reached the latitude of 74° 15′ S., three degrees further than any preceding navigator, where we had every reason, from his account, to expect we should find a clear sea, and considerably extend the limits of his daring researches.
By noon we were fairly at sea again, the Seal rocks bearing N. 69° W., distant four miles; and, favoured by a smart breeze from the westward, we soon lost sight of the land—not one individual in either ship, I believe, feeling the smallest regret on leaving the Falkland Islands; every one rather rejoicing in the prospect before us, of again resuming the more important business of our voyage. Steering to the S. by E. in order to pass ​to the eastward of Clarence Island, one of the South Shetland group, we crossed the line of equal temperature of the ocean throughout its entire depth, Dec. 20.at 10 a.m. on the 20th, in latitude 55° 48′ S., and longitude 54° 40′ W.; but the weather did not admit of our sending thermometers lower than a thousand fathoms, at which depth the temperature was 39°.5; at 750 fathoms, 39°.3; at 600 fathoms, 39°.4; at 450 fathoms, 39°.6; at 300 fathoms, 39°.6; at 150 fathoms, 40°; and at the surface, 40°. The specific gravity of water from 150 and 600 fathoms was the same as at the surface, 1.0277 at 45°. We found by our observations that during the two preceding and following days we were carried to the eastward, by a current, at the rate of rather more than twenty miles daily.
Dec. 24.On the morning of the 24th we saw the first iceberg, in latitude 61°. At this time we were about fifty miles to the north-east of Clarence Island; but owing to the thick weather which prevailed, we could not see it: the wind increased to a gale from the westward in the afternoon, which reduced us to a close-reefed main-topsail and storm staysails, and it blew with great violence throughout the night; but as we had plenty of sea-room, with only few bergs about us, and clear weather, it gave us no uneasiness. The temperature of the sea also being above 35°, we were assured that no large body of ice could be near us, so we stood to the southward.
Dec. 25.The gale moderated at 9 the next morning, by ​which time, being under the lee of Clarence Island, we found some shelter from the heavy westerly sea we had during the night experienced. Being Christmas Day, our people, as usual, had an additional allowance issued to them, and it was passed by us all cheerfully and happily, although the gale still whistled through the rigging, and we were surrounded by a great multitude of icebergs. We were indebted to the kindness of Lieutenant Governor Moody, of the Falkland Islands, for the good old English fare of roast-beef, which he provided by presenting each ship with a fine fat ox, which had been fed on one of the tussock-covered islands, for this especial occasion.
In the afternoon we met with and sailed through several streams of loose ice, and soon afterwards the main pack was seen from S. S. W. to E. At this time we were in latitude 62° 30′ S., and longitude 52° W., when, the wind falling light, and there being a considerable swell amongst the ice, we were obliged to stand off to the northward for the night. During the next day we beat along the pack edge Dec. 26.to the westward, against a moderate breeze, which afforded us an opportunity of examining it from the mast-head, as we worked in amongst the loose ice off its margin. As far as we could see, the pack appeared tolerably open; but I was desirous of getting between it and the land to the westward, and therefore did not venture so far as to endanger the vessels getting beset in so exposed a situation.
​Light adverse winds and thick weather on the Dec. 27.27th greatly impeded us. We were amongst loose ice, and many bergs; these were in a state of rapid dissolution, from the temperature of the air being up to 37°, and that of the sea to 34°. Frequent loud reports and crashes were heard as they broke up and rolled over, so that it was dangerous to approach them, and an unusual sight to us; for on our two former visits to the southern regions, we had never seen the least appearance of thaw or of breaking up of bergs.
Dec. 28.Land was discovered on the 28th, at 6 {{|sc|p.m.}} It presented to our view a remarkable cape, with a deep indentation to the northward of it, having the appearance of a good harbour, and terminated by a less conspicuous headland. Still further to the northward, and at a great distance, another promontory was clearly seen, which I believe to be the "Point des Français " of Admiral D'Urville: the northernmost cape of the land he named "Joinville."
The summit of the highest land to the southward was partially concealed by mist, but which occasionally cleared away, and exposed to view an even round topped mountain, covered with snow, out of which two warty excrescences of rock projected, of very curious appearance, owing to their ruggedness, and being quite free from snow. Wreaths of snow or mist which whirled round the hill-tops, led Captain Crozier and his officers to believe they could perceive smoke issuing from ​them; it was not observed by any one on board 1842 the Erebus, but it might have escaped our notice. I mention it here to call the attention of any future visiter to the circumstance.
A high islet, of extraordinary figure, was seen at a great distance from the shore. I named it Ætna Islet, from its resemblance to that volcano: it was entirely covered with recent snow, and, but for its great height, might easily have been mistaken for an iceberg.
An enormous glacier, of several miles in breadth, descended from an elevation of about 1200 feet into the ocean, where it presented a vertical cliff of about 100 feet high (the great southern barrier of 78° 15′ S. in miniature), near which we observed the largest aggregation of icebergs, which had evidently been broken away from it, that I ever remember to have seen collected together.
Having clearly determined the general outline of the land, although, from the want of good observations, being unable to give its exact position, we bore away to the south, along a coast-line of icy cliffs, in a sea thickly studded with grounded bergs: a strong tide or current amongst them forming whirlpools, rendered the steerage of our ships at times difficult, and hurried us onwards to the southward, until at length numerous low rocky islets appeared amongst heavy fragments of ice, by which they were completely concealed until we were nearly down upon them. I called them Danger Islets. They obliged us to haul off to the ​eastward, and we had fortunately gained an offing before midnight, when it became so thick that we could not see beyond a quarter of a mile.
Dec. 29.Notwithstanding the fog and numerous bergs about us, we stood to the south-east until we met with the pack edge, and almost immediately afterwards an island was seen within three times the length of the ship, although we had tried for soundings every quarter of an hour without striking ground: we tacked, and made the fog signal for the Terror to do so likewise. The cliffs of the island through the fog appeared so perpendicular as to admit of the ship going alongside; and well it was they were seen in time to avoid running against them, as we had no suspicion of being near any land.
We sounded at 1$^h$ 20$^m$ p.m. in one hundred and sixty-two fathoms, on sand and small stones, and found the current setting to the N.N.W. at the rate of half a mile hourly. The fog cleared away, and we saw the small high island against which we so nearly ran. It is the southernmost of the Danger Islet group. I named it Darwin Islet, after Charles Darwin, Esquire, the talented companion of Captain Fitzroy during his interesting voyage. The wind shifting to the southward brought clear weather, and as we stood towards the land, with the intention of continuing its survey, under all sail upon the port tack, we passed numerous streams of heavy ice, and received severe blows in forcing a passage through some of them.
​We observed a very great number of the largest-sized black whales, so tame that they allowed the ship sometimes almost to touch them before they would get out of the way; so that any number of ships might procure a cargo of oil in a short time. Thus within ten days after leaving the Falkland Islands, we had discovered not only new land, but a valuable whale-fishery well worthy the attention of our enterprising merchants, less than six hundred miles from one of our own possessions.
The birds we met with off this land were of the same kinds we had seen on our previous visits to the icy regions; but the great penguins were more numerous than we had any where before found them.
It blew a strong breeze from the southward, with Dec. 30.frequent snow-showers and sharp squalls; and we found the pack so close, that we had great difficulty in making our way through it to the westward; at one time the Terror became so entangled amongst it, that I was apprehensive of her getting beset, and dodged about for some hours in a more open space, until she was released. A great number of grounded bergs was probably the occasion of the loose ice being packed so closely just at this point.
At noon we were in latitude 63° 36′ S., longitude 54° 33′ W. Darwin Islet, of about 600 feet elevation, with several rocks, and two or three smaller islets near it, were seen when the fog cleared away. The main land was also seen bearing from W.N.W. to S.S.W., and with ​the assistance of a fine breeze from the south, we succeeded, by 8 p.m., in forcing our way through the loose ice into an extensive sheet of clear water, between the land and the main pack.
​from the distance to rise so abruptly as to render it quite inaccessible.
An islet to the northward of Paulet Island was named Eden Islet, after Captain Charles Eden of the Royal Navy; and its lofty southern cape, after Captain William David Puget of the Royal Navy. The low, eastern, extreme point, off which lie the Danger Islets, was called Point Moody, after the Lieutenant Governor of the Falkland Islands: the northern headland of the apparent inlet, the first land seen by us on the evening of the 28th, I named Cape King, and the remarkable rugged cape to the southward, Cape Fitzroy, after my friends, Captain P. P. King, R.N., and Captain R. Fitzroy, R.N., from whose admirable surveys we had derived much advantage.
ABSTRACT OF THE METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL KEPT ON BOARD HER MAJESTY'S SHIP EREBUS.—December, 1842.
| Day. | Position at Noon. | Position at Noon. | Position at Noon. | Position at Noon. | Position at Noon. | Temperature of the Air in Shade. | Temperature of the Air in Shade. | Temperature of the Air in Shade. | Mean Tempera- ture of Sea at Surface. | Temp. at 9 a.m. | Temp. at 9 a.m. | Rain in Gauge. |
| Day. | Lat. S. | Lat. S. | Lat. S. | Long. W. | Long. W. | Max | Min. | Mean. | Mean Tempera- ture of Sea at Surface. | Air in Shade | Dew point. | Rain in Gauge. |
| | | ° | ′ | ° | ′ | ° | ° | ° | ° | ° | ° | Inches |
| 1 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | | | | 49.5 | 37.5 | 42.6 | 49 | 46 | 32 | — |
| 2 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | | | | 55 | 37 | 44.1 | 49.3 | 51 | 42 | 0.05 |
| 3 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | | | | 51 | 36 | 43.2 | 48.2 | 51 | 47 | 0.06 |
| 4 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | | | | 45.5 | 36 | 40.9 | 48.4 | 43 | 30 | 0.02 |
| 5 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | | | | 50 | 35 | 41.9 | 47.8 | 42 | 33 | 0.02 |
| 6 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | | | | 54 | 39 | 45.8 | 48.8 | 46 | 46* | 0.1 |
| 7 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Port Louis. | Port Louis. | Port Louis. | Port Louis. | 52 | 40 | 45.7 | 48.9 | 49.5 | 41 | — |
| 8 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | | | | 58 | 41 | 47.9 | 48.9 | 50 | 37 | 0.01 |
| 9 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | | | | 60.5 | 43 | 51.2 | 49.4 | 55 | 42 | — |
| 10 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | | | | 53.5 | 40 | 45.5 | 49.0 | 47 | 41 | — |
| 11 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | | | | 50 | 37.5 | 44 | 49.2 | 48 | 42 | 0.04 |
| 12 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | | | | 49 | 37.5 | 447 | 48.9 | 47 | 46 | 0.02 |
| 13 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | | | | 50 | 40 | 44.2 | 48.5 | 46 | 37 | 0.07 |
| 14 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | | | | 49.5 | 42 | 45.5 | 48.8 | 46 | 41 | 0.01 |
| 15 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | | | | 57 | 42 | 48.9 | 49.7 | 52 | 47 | 0.02 |
| 16 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | | | | 59.5 | 38 | 50.5 | 50.3 | 52 | 44 | — |
| 17 | Off Cape Pembroke | Off Cape Pembroke | Off Cape Pembroke | Off Cape Pembroke | | 63 | 46 | 54.4 | 49.3 | 61 | 49 | — |
| 18 | | 52 | 54 | 56 | 43 | 60 | 46 | 52 | 47.4 | 55 | 47 | — |
| 19 | | 54 | 23 | 56 | 01 | 46 | 42 | 44.9 | 44.5 | 46 | 42 | — |
| 20 | | 55 | 51 | 54 | 42 | 51 | 41 | 45.4 | 43.3 | 46 | 41 | — |
| 21 | | 57 | 04 | 53 | 22 | 43 | 36 | 39.5 | 38.3 | 40 | 38 | 0.16 |
| 22 | | 58 | 16 | 52 | 0 | 39 | 34 | 35.4 | 35.4 | 35 | 32 | — |
| 23 | | 59 | 50 | 51 | 50 | 38 | 33.5 | 35.3 | 34.3 | 34 | 30 | — |
| 24 | | 61 | 23 | 52 | 19 | 36.5 | 34 | 35.1 | 33.6 | 36 | 36 | — |
| 25 | | 62 | 14 | 52 | 05 | 35.5 | 28 | 32.2 | 32.2 | 33 | 33* | — |
| 26 | | 62 | 31 | 51 | 36 | 33.5 | 29 | 31.7 | 32.0 | 34 | 32 | — |
| 27 | | 62 | 18 | 51 | 57 | 37.5 | 32 | 34.2 | 33.3 | 33 | 33 | — |
| 28 | | 62 | 44 | 53 | 43 | 37 | 32 | 33.8 | 32.7 | 34 | 32 | — |
| 29 | | 63 | 40 | 53 | 42 | 35.5 | 30.5 | 32.1 | 31.8 | 33 | 32 | — |
| 30 | | 60 | 36 | 54 | 33 | 33 | 29 | 31 | 31.6 | 31 | 29 | — |
| 31 | | 63 | 56 | 55 | 28 | 40 | 28 | 33 | 32.3 | 33 | 26 | — |
| | | | | | | 60.5 | 28 | 41.82 | 43.07 | | | 0.58 |
* Deposit of rain, snow, or fog.
ABSTRACT OF THE METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL KEPT ON BOARD HER MAJESTY'S SHIP EREBUS.—DECEMBER, 1842.
| Day. | Barometer. | Barometer. | Barometer. | Winds. | Winds. | Winds. | Winds. | Winds. | Winds. | Weather. | Weather. | Weather. |
| Day. | Max. | Min. | Mean. | Direction. | Direction. | Direction. | Force. | Force. | Force. | | | Weather. | Weather. | Weather. |
| | Inches. | Inches. | Inches. | | | | | | |
| 1 | 29.300 | 29.059 | 29-206 | | S. Westerly | | | 2 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 4 b.c. p.m. 0 d. | |
| 2 | .182 | 28.914 | .013 | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. Westerly. p.m. Southerly | | | 1 3 | | | 0 p.r. 4 b.c.p.r. | |
| 3 | .181 | 29.031 | .085 | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. N.W. p.m. East | | | 2 | | | 2 b.c.p.r. | |
| 4 | .393 | .060 | .212 | | Southerly | | | 4 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 3 b.c. p.m. 3 b.c.p.h. | |
| 5 | .554 | .400 | .500 | | S.S.W. | | | 3 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 3 b.c.p.s. p.m. 1 b.c.g. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ |
| 6 | .497 | .298 | .396 | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. West p.m. S.S.W. | | | 2 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 0 g.r. p.m. 2 b.c. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ |
| 7 | .523 | .253 | .384 | | N.N.W. | | | 2 | | | 0 m.r. | |
| 8 | .437 | .296 | .390 | | S. Westerly | | | 4 | | | 3 b.c. | |
| 9 | .441 | .346 | .394 | | Westerly | | | 2 | | | 3 b.c. | |
| 10 | .599 | .429 | .550 | | S.W. | | | 3 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | A.M. 2 b.c. p.m. 0 q.p.r.s. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ |
| 11 | .676 | .539 | .614 | | S.W. | | | 4 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 2 b.c.p.q.r. p.m. 2 b.c.q. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ |
| 12 | .638 | .029 | .285 | | N.N.W. | | | 2 | | | 0 g.r. | |
| 13 | .512 | .133 | .407 | | S.S.W. | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 6 p.m. 4 | | | 3 b.c.q.p.r. | |
| 14 | .834 | .496 | .627 | | S.S.W. | | | 4 | | | 1 b.c.p.q.r. | |
| 15 | .992 | .840 | .903 | | S.S.W. | | | 3 | | | 3 b.c. | |
| 16 | .983 | .682 | .838 | | Westerly | | | 3 | | | 3 b.c. | |
| 17 | .711 | .392 | .570 | | W.N.W. | | | 3 | | | 5 b.c. | |
| 18 | .447 | .258 | .334 | | Westerly | | | 2 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 5 b.c. p.m. 1 b.c.g.p.r. | |
| 19 | .498 | .233 | .313 | | W.S.W. | | | 5 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 4 b.c. p.m. 2 b.c.g. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ |
| 20 | .560 | .469 | .526 | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. S.W. by W p.m. Northerly | | | 2 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 2 b.c. p.m. 0 d. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ |
| 21 | .512 | .213 | .405 | | Westerly | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 3 p.m. 8 | | | 1 b.c.m. 2 b.c.o.q.g. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ |
| 22 | .699 | .383 | .608 | | S.W. | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 6 p.m. 3 | | | 2 b.c.p.s. | |
| 23 | .798 | .500 | .661 | | Westerly | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 3 p.m. 5 | | | 2 b.c.g. 0 m.q. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ |
| 24 | .469 | .006 | .254 | | West | | | 6 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 0 m.q. p.m. 2 b.c.o.m.q | |
| 25 | .280 | 28.956 | .116 | | S.W. | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 8 p.m. 3 | | | 0 q.s. 3 b.c. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ |
| 26 | .278 | 29.186 | .225 | | W.N.W. | | | 2 | | | 0 m.f. | |
| 27 | .195 | .103 | .141 | | W.N.W. | | | 1 | | | 0 m.f. | |
| 28 | .123 | 28.941 | .036 | | N. Westerly | | | 3 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 0 f.s. p.m. 3 b.c. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ |
| 29 | 28.934 | .832 | 28.886 | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. North p.m. South | | | 2 4 | | | 0 f.p.s. | |
| 30 | .980 | .847 | .908 | | South | | | 5 | | | 0 m.p.s. | |
| 31 | 29.137 | .947 | 29.022 | | S.E. | | | 2 | | | 3 b.c. | |
| | 29.992 | 28.832 | 29.3487 | | | | 3.3 | 3.3 | 3.3 | | | |
* For explanation of these symbols, see Appendix to Vol. I.
​not being visible at so great a distance. I have named it D'Urville's Monument, in memory of that enterprising navigator, whose loss not only France, but every civilized nation must deplore.
Dec. 31.At 6 a.m. a light breeze sprung up from the eastward, to which we spread all our studding-sails, steering for the distant land to the south-west. Great numbers of the largest-sized black whales were lying upon the water in all directions: their enormous breadth quite astonished us. The colour of the sea was a dirty brown, probably occasioned by minute ferruginous infusoria, which were found in the greenish-coloured mud that was brought up by the deep sea clamms from a depth of two hundred and seven fathoms, at 1 p.m. At this time we were in latitude 64° S., longitude 55° 28′ W., the magnetic dip 62° 30′ S., variation 21° 30′ E.; the southern extreme of land bearing S. 54° W. at a distance of thirty miles, and a lofty table-topped mountain bearing about west. At 4 p.m. we came to the edge of the ice which filled the great gulf to the south-west, and in which it was so closely packed that we could not get any nearer the coast at this point; we therefore steered along it to the south-east.
1843. Jan. 1.The new year opened upon us with beautiful weather, but soon after 2 a.m., whilst running to the southward with a westerly wind, we found the ice so close, that to prevent getting beset, we were compelled to stand back to the northward, to await a more favourable opportunity, and with the hope ​that the westerly breeze would drive the ice away from the shore, and leave a clear passage between them.
At noon we were in latitude 64° 14′ S., longitude Jan 1.55° 54′ W. Being New Year's Day, a complete suit of warm clothing was, as customary, presented to our crews, and an additional allowance of provision given to them. In the afternoon, accompanied by Commander Bird and some of the officers, I went on board the Terror to visit Captain Crozier, and exchange the good wishes of the season. At this time it was perfectly calm, and we had a most beautiful view of the magnificent mountain which forms the most striking feature of our new discoveries. It was named Mount Haddington, after the Right Honourable the Earl of Haddington, the First Lord of the Admiralty. Its elevation, by the mean of several measurements, was found to be seven thousand and fifty feet. It rose precipitously from the coast in three horizontal volcanic terraces, the black rocky cliffs protruding through the perennial icy covering of the mountain; and, in some places, large masses of irregular shape also appeared. A small island, of a deep brown colour, of great elevation for its size, with a rock resembling a watch tower on its north point, and a high volcanic crater-like peak on its south end, being perfectly clear of snow, formed a striking contrast to the main land. It was named Cockburn Island, after Admiral the Right Honourable Sir George Cockburn, G. C. B., Senior Naval Lord ​of the Admiralty. Its elevation above the sea was two thousand seven hundred and sixty feet, and its diameter was about twice as much.
In the evening the wind came from the northeast, and we made an attempt to force our way through the loose ice, but it closed so rapidly upon us that we were soon beset, and compelled to make fast to a floe of two or three miles in diameter. Bergs of the barrier form were numerous, and one of them, which was our inconveniently close companion the whole day, measured between four and five miles in diameter and one hundred and fifty feet high.
Jan. 2.Whilst fast to this floe, we had a good opportutunity of comparing our magnetic instruments, and were gratified to find the results most satisfactory and accordant. At noon we were in latitude 64° 2′ S., and longitude 56° 11′ W., the magnetic dip 63° 17′ S., and the variation 20° 53′ E., by observations on the ice; we obtained soundings in one hundred and fifty-two fathoms, on blue mud. The smaller kind of penguins was in great numbers, and afforded much amusement to our people, scrambling through the deep snow after them; three of the great penguins were also captured: the largest weighed sixty-eight pounds.
At 1 30 p.m. we cast off from the floe, and gained a tolerably clear space; but the Terror, being further to leeward, remained beset for three hours longer, when by great exertions they succeeded in getting out, and rejoined us just before a ​thick fog came over, which prevented our running to the south. During the night we stretched to the eastward, amongst streams of ice and bergs, which became less numerous as we receded from the land.
At 2 a.m. we came to the main pack, and were Jan. 3.obliged to stand back to the westward, having accomplished my object of ascertaining the breadth of the space between it and the land, which was about twenty miles.
We were prevented making any progress during the next two days by unfavourable weather, and were fortunate in having a comparatively clear space for the ships during its continuance. At 9 p.m. on the 5th, the wind blew strong from the Jan. 5.southward, but under the lee of the land we maintained our position, whilst the loose ice from the islets and coast drifted away to the northward, leaving the shores of Cockburn Island quite clear: having moderated to a light breeze, we got close in with it at 9 a.m., when I made the signal to Jan. 6.Captain Crozier, and we landed together and took formal possession of the island and the contiguous lands. As we expected, we found it to be entirely of volcanic formation; but the most interesting feature of our visit to this barren rock is that here the last vestiges of vegetation are to be found, and of which the following account is given by Dr. Hooker:—
"As regards its botany, this island may be considered one of a group, lying immediately south ​of Cape Horn, beyond the sixtieth degree of latitude. The number of plants ascertained to inhabit them hardly exceeds twenty-six; and one of these, a grass, the only flowering plant, does not pass the sixty-second degree; nor, consequently, reach that island, to whose vegetation the following observations more immediately refer. Previous to the voyage of the "Erebus and Terror," almost nothing was known of the vegetation which approaches nearest to the Antarctic Pole. We had yet to learn whether a flora, so situated, would be found to consist of plants which inhabit the elevated and comparatively rigorous regions of a milder clime; or of those growing in a similar latitude of the opposite hemisphere; or finally, if Nature had not there produced new and isolated species, adapted to the peculiarities of the locality.
"The Flora of Cockburn Island contains nineteen species, all belonging to the orders, Mosses, Algae, and Lichens. Twelve are terrestrial; three inhabit either fresh water or very moist ground; and four are confined to the surrounding Ocean. Of these nineteen plants, seven are restricted to the island in question, having been hitherto found nowhere else (besides an eighth, which is a variety of a well known species); the others grow in various parts of the globe, some being widely diffused.
"The greatest amount of novelty is found here, as in other cryptogamic floras, among the most highly organized class: for example, of the Mosses, ​two out of five are new. There are seven Algae, and two of them, or less than a third, are new. Of six species of Lichen, four are already described, (perhaps five), so that only one, or at most two, can be considered peculiar.
"The twelve plants of Cockburn Island that are common to other parts of the world, may be arranged according to their greater or less diffusion; for while some may be seen in all latitudes, others are sporadic, appearing in certain remote spots; and a few are confined to the regions in the vicinity of Cockburn Island.
"The four following plants are the most generally dispersed:—Bryum argenteum, Ulva crispa, Lecanora miniata, and Lecidea atro-alba. The first is a very frequent British moss, found likewise in Arctic latitudes, in many parts of the tropics, and at the Falkland Islands. The second is an Arctic Alga, also abounding in the temperate parts of the northern hemisphere, in the tropics, and the Falklands. Lecanora miniata is an arctic lichen, and seen in all intervening countries down to Cockburn Island; while the other lichen (Lecidea atro-alba) inhabits Britain, sub-arctic Europe, and New Zealand.
"Of the sporadic plants which follow, it is probable that some may yet be discovered in intermediate stations, having either escaped observation from their minuteness, or been described as different species; they are two mosses, viz. ​Tortula gracilis, indigenous to Europe and Cockburn Island; and Tortula lævipila, found in Europe and the Falklands; two sea-weeds, viz. Desmarestia aculeata, var. media, originally detected in Unalaschka (lat. 55° N.); and Oscillatoria ærugescens? if this latter be identical with the Irish species of that name, it had hitherto been found in one loch in Ireland only: and a lichen (Collema crispum), which is a native of Britain and other parts of Europe, where it generally grows on walls, though occasionally, as in Cockburn Island, on the ground. To this list should be added another lichen, recognised as a Falkland Island and European Parmelia, the specimens of which were unfortunately lost. The remaining two plants are well known sea-weeds, natives of several parts of the southern temperate, and antarctic ocean; viz., Iridæa micans and Adenocystis Lessoni.
"The two most striking vegetable productions of this island are a noble sea-weed, called Sargassum Jacquinotii, and a Lichen. The first of these was not found attached, but floating in the ocean among the ice, by which it was sometimes much mutilated. Though belonging to a highly variable order, it is a perfectly distinct as well as conspicuous species, first discovered at Deception Island, one of the South Shetlands, by the surgeon of H.M.S. Chanticleer, and afterwards by Admiral d'Urville, who collected his specimens nearly in the same latitude. It attains a length of three feet, is flat, and the margin runs out into longish ​lobes with a solitary bladder at the base of each; the colour is a dirty chocolate brown.
"On approaching Cockburn Island, the cliffs above are seen to be belted with yellow, which, as it were, streams down to the ocean, among the rocky débris. The colour was too pale to be caused by iron ochre, which it otherwise resembles; and this appearance was found to be entirely owing to the abundance of a species of lichen (Lecanora miniata) that prevails in the vicinity of the sea throughout the Antarctic Islands, and in other parts of the globe. It grows nowhere else in such profusion: a circumstance which may arise from its preference for animal matter: the penguin rookery of Cockburn Island, which taints the air by its effluvium, being, perhaps, peculiarly congenial to this lichen.
"Immediately on landing, one plant, and only one, is easily discernible, the Ulva crispa. Like the Lecanora, it abounds in the south, and vegetates upon or near decomposing organised substances. It consists of pale green membranous fronds, barely one fourth of an inch high, and crowded together in great numbers.
"The Mosses grow in the soil which is harboured in the fissures of rocks: they are excessively minute, the closest scrutiny being requisite to detect them. There were, as above mentioned, only five species: two of them bore unripe capsules, and all were confined to spots having a northern exposure, and even there they were so ​hard frozen into the ground' that they could not be removed without a hammer.
"One of the Algæ was collected in a pool of fresh water, hardly two spans across, and sheltered by a projecting rock that faced the north. The surface of the water was slightly coated with a steel-blue scum: the earth at bottom, perhaps half an inch below, was hard frozen; and the water itself just thawing, for it was an unusually warm day, the thermometer standing at 40°. Collema crispum, a British plant, grew on the borders of this pool, and with it a green microscopic Conferva.
"A small and beautiful undescribed lichen (Lecanora Daltoni) occurred very sparingly on the rocks: it is allied to L. chrysoleuca of the Swiss Alps. The other plants of this order were exceedingly inconspicuous, and only discoverable by carefully examining the surface of the rocks.
"The sea-weeds gathered on the shores of Cockburn Island were all floating, and carried along by a strong current, loaded with masses of ice.
"Vegetation could not be traced above the conspicuous ledge of rocks, with which the whole island is girt, at fourteen hundred feet elevation. The lichens ascended the highest. The singular nature of this flora must be viewed in connexion with the soil and climate; than which perhaps none can be more unfriendly to vegetable life. The form of the island admits of no shelter: its rocks are volcanic, and very hard, sometimes compact, but more frequently vesicular. A steep stony ​bank descends from the above-mentioned ledge to the beach; and to it the plants are almost limited. The slope itself is covered with loose fragments of rock, the debris of the cliff above, further broken up by frost, and ice-bound to a depth which there was no opportunity of ascertaining; for on the day the island was visited, the superficial masses alone were slightly loosened by the sun's rays. Thus the plants are confined to an almost incessantly frozen locality, and a particularly barren soil, liable to shift at every partial thaw. During nearly the entire year, even during the summer weeks which the Expedition spent in sight of Cockburn Island, it was constantly covered with snow. Fortunately the ships occupied a position that permitted of landing, on almost the only day when it was practicable to form a collection. The vegetation of so low a degree of latitude might be supposed to remain torpid, except for a few days in the year; when if the warmth were genial, and a short period of growing weather took place, the plants would receive an extraordinary stimulus. But far from such being the case, the effect of the sun's rays, when they momentarily appear, is only prejudicial to vegetation. The black and porous stones quickly part with their moisture; and the Lecanora and Ulva consequently become so crisp and parched, that they crumble into fragments when an attempt is made to remove them.
"The conducting power of the minerals in ​Cockburn Island is too feeble to melt the ice immediately beneath them; and the air was so dry during our visit, that Daniell's Hygrometer, placed hardly six inches above the ice and on the stones, indicated twenty-two degrees of difference on one occasion; and upon another, it fell from 40° to 13°, without producing any condensation. Such dryness is eminently injurious to all vegetables but lichens, which, in many cases, seem to thrive best under excessive atmospheric changes. The preponderance of the Lecanora in Cockburn Island cannot arise from this exsiccation stimulating its growth; but may be caused by the reaction that takes place afterwards, on the rapid condensation of vapour previously heated by the temperature of the rocks upon which it grows."
Our observations place this island in latitude 64° 12′ S., longitude 59° 49′ W. The tide was falling during the whole time we were on shore, and it was low water at apparent noon; the stream setting out of the inlet to the northward; and judging from the well defined high-water mark, the amount of rise and fall was not more than six feet. The observations were made on a beach, near the north point of the island. This beach is probably the favourite resort of the fur seals at the proper season of the year, and is admirably adapted to their wants. Besides penguins and cormorants innumerable, we found the beautiful white petrel building its nest in the precipitous cliffs, above the ​débris which covers the sides and shores of the island, to the height of fourteen hundred feet from the beach. The eggs of this bird, which have never before been seen, are 2.2 inches long, 1.6 inch broad, and weigh from six hundred to seven hundred and fifty grains; they are of a bluish white colour, and only one egg, with the young in a forward state, was found in each nest, which was formed of a few feathers on the bare rock: the young birds are of a deep lead colour.
We returned to the ships at noon, and soon afterwards the flood tide from the northward came in so strong that, notwithstanding the assistance of a light wind and our boats a-head towing, it carried us between Cockburn Island and the main Jan. 6.land, some distance up the inlet; but as the channel appeared free from rocks, and there was very little ice about, it gave us no uneasiness; and the tide turning in our favour about 8 p.m., carried us out again. This arm of the sea is terminated at about twenty miles from its entrance by a glacier, which seems to connect the opposite shores; beneath this, as in the fiords of Greenland, it is not improbable its waters unite with those of the ocean to the southward. The inlet was named Admiralty Inlet; its western cape, a high, precipitous promontory, Cape Gage, after Vice-Admiral Sir William Hall Gage, G.C.H.; and its eastern headland, Cape Seymour, after Rear-Admiral Sir George Francis Seymour, Knight, C.B., G.C.H.; the north cape of an extensive bay ​to the north-west was called Cape Gordon, after Captain the Honourable William Gordon, R.N.; and another, still further to the northward, with a high islet off it, Cape Corry, after the Right Honourable Thomas Lowry Corry; the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. The deep bay between Cape Gage and Cape Gordon was named after the Honourable Sidney Herbert, M.P., First Secretary to the Admiralty; and a conspicuous headland to the southward of Cape Gage was called Cape Hamilton, after Captain W. A. B. Hamilton, R.N., Private Secretary to the Earl of Haddington, and now Second Secretary to the Admiralty.
The south-west land of Admiralty Inlet, for about ten miles from Cape Seymour, is formed of deep brown-coloured lava, with a polished surface, contorted, and grooved in so extraordinary a manner, as to give it the appearance of having been marked by machinery in numerous series of lines, somewhat resembling the engine turning of a watch-case, but more irregular. It is a narrow slip of land; and at one part, where the icy covering begins, there is either a low connecting neck of land or a narrow channel through it: this we could not determine. The snow-covered land rises gradually to the southward, to an elevation of about two thousand feet, without any rock projecting through it. It was named Snow Hill.
The western coast of Admiralty Inlet is formed of perpendicular cliffs of basaltic rock, which were perfectly free from land ice, except in one or two ​places to the northward of Cape Gage, where glaciers fill the valleys and project into the sea.
Between Cape Purvis and Cape Corry land was indistinctly visible; but Mount Percy, at a distance of sixty miles, formed a conspicuous and beautiful object.
At 11 p.m. we rounded Cape Seymour, and bore away before a fresh breeze to the S.S.W., between a continuous line of grounded bergs and the land, the channel being about two miles broad.
At 3 a.m., after a run of eight leagues, the Jan. 7main pack was seen so close in with the land as to deter me from pushing the ships in between them whilst the wind was blowing from the northward. We therefore hauled off on the port tack, to await a more favourable opportunity, which soon afterwards occurred; the wind at 7.30. suddenly shifting to the W.S.W., opened a passage between the pack and the land. We then beat along the coast, which at this part is formed of vertical icy cliffs, no part exceeding fifty, and in some places not twenty feet high, the continuation of the covering of Snow Hill, which on this side descends with a gradual slope to the sea, and, as on its southern side, without the smallest rock appearing through its brilliant surface. At noon we were in latitude 64° 34′ S., longitude 57° 10′ W., magnetic dip 63° 7′ S., variation 23° 20′ E. From this position we observed the land, or rather icy cliffs, turn suddenly away to the westward; and the fixed land ice attached to them extended in a deep ​bight round to the south-east as far as we could see; a very great number of bergs were clustered together in the fixed ice, of unusually large size; several of them measuring four or five miles in diameter, and about two hundred feet high, must have broken away from some loftier barrier than we have yet seen in this vicinity. As we advanced to the southward, two high rugged bluff capes at a great distance appeared, bearing W.S.W. (true); the nearest of them I named, at the request of Captain Crozier, after his friend Captain Nicholas Lockyer, R.N. C.B., and the western-most in memory of our lamented shipmate the late Captain Foster, R.N.
At 2.30. p.m. when a quarter of a mile from the cliffs, we sounded in fifty-four fathoms, green sand and small black stones; and the rest of the day we continued to work our way amongst the bergs and loose ice towards the fixed land ice, with the intention of getting hold of it.
Jan. 8.The wind shifting to the eastward at 3 a.m., brought with it a thick fog; and, surrounded as we were by innumerable bergs aground in from eighty to one hundred fathoms, and frequently entangled amongst the loose ice, with the tide sweeping us in amongst them, we had great difficulty in avoiding collision with the bergs, and our situation was throughout the day most anxious and embarrassing. A calm succeeded, and, with the boats, we towed out to the south-east, closely followed by the Terror, and before midnight we had the ​satisfaction to find that we had passed through the chain of bergs into a more clear space, but with a great quantity of loose ice about, which we soon afterwards found to be rapidly closing; as we could not see to any distance, owing to the dense fog, we made fast to a large floe, at 6.20. a.m.: Jan. 9.on the fog clearing away shortly before noon, we found ourselves completely beset by the close pack, and fast to the fixed land ice. At noon, in latitude 64° 44′ S., longitude 56° 53′ W., we sounded in one hundred and sixty-four fathoms, green sand; the nearest point of the land bearing north-west by north (true), distant thirteen miles. From the mast-head the land ice extended as far as we could see to the eastward, round by south to north-west.
During the remainder of this and the whole of Jan. 10.the following day, we were stationary; and, as a light easterly wind with thick snow prevailed on the morning of the 11th, it was not until 10 a.m. Jan. 11.that we cast off from the land ice; and, coasting along its edge to the westward, we passed again through the cluster of grounded bergs; and, having traced the ice in one unbroken line for nearly thirty miles, before midnight we found it to turn suddenly to the north, and join the icy cliffs at the foot of Snow Hill. Cape Foster, at the distance of Jan. 12.eight leagues, formed the extreme point of land in sight, and the whole intervening space was one continuous sheet of fixed ice, in which many large bergs were enclosed. There is a bay or inlet, ​filled with a glacier, between Cape Foster and Cape Lockyer, and another between Cape Lockyer and the Snow Hill cliffs: this latter cannot be more than five or six miles from the head of Admiralty Inlet. As it was impossible to continue the examination of the land to the westward, or to make any way to the southward, I resolved to lose no more time in this perplexing navigation, but endeavour to trace the land ice to the south-eastward as far as it should lead us; in order to do this it was necessary to extricate ourselves from the loose ice which had now packed so closely in amongst the bergs, that we could see no way out, and the temperature falling to 23° at night, began to connect them into extensive floes, threatening to detain us in our present awkward position for the winter.
At noon, in latitude 64° 39′ S., longitude 57° 24′ W., magnetic dip 63° 20′ S., and variation 23° E., we sounded in one hundred and twenty fathoms, on green mud, close to the edge of the land ice, on which I obtained observations in the evening. On examining the state of the ice to the eastward, we found every channel between the bergs so closed up by large floes, as effectually to prevent our egress: we were therefore obliged to keep the ships sailing to and fro in a small hole of water between the bergs and the land the whole of this and the Jan. 13. following day, in the course of which we were frequently beset for a few hours, and being carried by the spring tides with great force amongst the bergs, we at times sustained severe shocks.
​The main pack continuing to press against the grounded bergs, precluding all chance of our escape, Jan. 14.I determined to run the ships into the ice, and endeavour to heave them through it; for the hole of water in which we were shut up, was so completely covered with young ice, I began to have serious apprehensions of the ships being frozen in; and both Captain Crozier and Commander Bird agreed with me in the necessity of the measure. The wind also favouring our intention, we entered the pack at 1.15. p.m., and continued warping, heaving, and boring through it until 9 p.m., when it became so close that we could not move them another inch. When the tide turned, the ice slackened a little, and our labours were renewed; and being calm in the afternoon of the next day Jan. 15.we made encouraging progress, but at 9 p.m. the ice as far as we could see was most closely packed; and its pressure against the land was so great as to heel our ships over considerably and make their timbers crack.
We remained closely beset, and sustaining severe pressure until 4 p.m. on the 16th, when the Jan. 16.floe to which we were fast, striking against a grounded berg, broke up into many pieces, by one of which the Terror was carried off to a distance of several miles from us without our being able to move the ships their own length, the tide sweeping us away in different directions, and thick weather succeeding, we lost sight of her for some hours.
​Jan. 17.At 2.30. a.m. the ice slackening with the turn of the tide, we cast off and rejoined the Terror with very little difficulty: we then made some way to the north-east, but were soon again closely beset, and obliged to make fast to a floe, which, together with the whole body of ice, was drifting with the tide back to the southward: fortunately, in this instance it was stopped by a grounded berg, whilst the rest of the pack continued its progress with much rapidity, and occasionally produced very considerable pressure; but before the tide was done, the clear water to the northward was seen over the pack. At noon we were in latitude 64° 22′ S., longitude 56° 43′ W., in twenty-five fathoms water, distant about four or five miles from the land, Cape Seymour bearing N.N.E. distant nine miles. At 2 p.m. the ice began to drift back to the northward, and to stream off soon afterwards. We now cast off, and made all sail before a strong south-west breeze and after four hours warping and boring through the ice, we effected our escape, and got into clear water. Our people had been so much harassed night and day for the whole of the last week, that being before midnight in comparatively comfortable circumstances, I put the ship under easy sail, which admitted of all hands obtaining a few hours' peaceful rest, which they greatly needed.
Jan. 18.At 2 a.m., whilst standing to the eastward, we came in with the edge of the main pack, very close and consisting of heavy floes, of from one to five miles in diameter; we bore away along it to look ​for an opening, but it led us far to the northward, so that at noon we were in latitude 63° 59′ S., longitude 54° 35′ W., magnetic dip 62° 53′, variation 20° 15' E. At 2. 15. P.M., whilst waiting for the Terror, which had been caught between two floes, we sounded in two hundred and ten fathoms, on green mud, the temperature at 150 fathoms being 30°, that at the surface 32°.
ABSTRACT OF THE METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL KEPT ON BOARD HER MAJESTY'S SHIP EREBUS.—January, 1843.
| Day. | Position at Noon. | Position at Noon. | Position at Noon. | Position at Noon. | Temperature of the Air in Shade. | Temperature of the Air in Shade. | Temperature of the Air in Shade. | Mean Tempera- ture of Sea at Surface. | Temp. at 9 a.m. | Temp. at 9 a.m. | Rain in Gauge. |
| Day. | Lat. S. | Lat. S. | Long. W. | Long. W. | Max | Min. | Mean. | Mean Tempera- ture of Sea at Surface. | Air in Shade | Dew point. | Rain in Gauge. |
| | ° | ′ | ° | ′ | ° | ° | ° | ° | ° | ° | Inches |
| 1 | 64 | 14 | 55 | 54 | 35 | 29 | 31.7 | 32.5 | 32 | 29 | — |
| 2 | 64 | 28 | 56 | 11 | 39 | 29.5 | 33.5 | 32.6 | 36 | 32 | — |
| 3 | 64 | 22 | 55 | 26 | 34.5 | 31.5 | 33.2 | 33 | 34 | 33 | — |
| 4 | 64 | 35 | 55 | 41 | 38 | 30.5 | 33.4 | 32.9 | 33 | 31.5 | — |
| 5 | 64 | 11 | 55 | 57 | 38 | 33 | 35 | 33.1 | 35 | 32.5 | — |
| 6 | 64 | 12 | 56 | 49 | 45 | 31 | 36.6 | 32.3 | 37.5 | 23 | — |
| 7 | 64 | 34 | 57 | 10 | 35 | 31 | 33 | 31.2 | 32 | 30 | — |
| 8 | 64 | 35 | 57 | 27 | 33 | 29.5 | 31 | 30.8 | 32 | 30 | — |
| 9 | 64 | 44 | 56 | 53 | 36 | 29 | 31.8 | 31 | 34 | 29 | 0.07 |
| 10 | 64 | 43 | 56 | 50 | 37 | 31 | 33.3 | 31.5 | 34 | 29 | — |
| 11 | 64 | 42 | 57 | 6 | 35 | 27.5 | 31 | 30.9 | 33 | 31 | 0.01 |
| 12 | 64 | 40 | 57 | 56 | 32.5 | 25 | 28.4 | 29.9 | 29 | 27 | — |
| 13 | 64 | 35 | 57 | 23 | 32 | 24 | 27.9 | 29.4 | 25.5 | 20 | — |
| 14 | 64 | 33 | 57 | 24 | 34.5 | 24.5 | 29.2 | 30.6 | 34 | 24 | 0.01 |
| 15 | 64 | 32 | 56 | 53 | 35 | 23.5 | 30.5 | 30.6 | 34.5 | 24 | — |
| 16 | 64 | 28 | 56 | 51 | 40 | 28 | 31.9 | 30.6 | 35 | 28 | 0.06 |
| 17 | 64 | 22 | 56 | 43 | 36 | 28.5 | 30.5 | 30.7 | 33 | 27 | 0.01 |
| 18 | 63 | 58 | 54 | 35 | 30 | 26.5 | 28.3 | 31.7 | 30 | 24.5 | — |
| 19 | 64 | 22 | 54 | 32 | 30 | 25 | 27.2 | 30.4 | 27 | 25.5 | 0.04 |
| 20 | 64 | 18 | 55 | 42 | 30 | 24 | 26.5 | 30.9 | 26 | 23.5 | — |
| 21 | 64 | 19 | 55 | 56 | 29 | 25 | 26.4 | 31.2 | 27 | 23 | 0.02 |
| 22 | 64 | 12 | 56 | 10 | 32.5 | 25 | 29.6 | 30.9 | 31 | 20 | — |
| 23 | 64 | 28 | 55 | 47 | 33.5 | 30 | 31.5 | 32 | 32 | 31 | — |
| 24 | 64 | 24 | 55 | 11 | 33.5 | 29.5 | 31.3 | 32 | 31 | 31* | 0.06 |
| 25 | 64 | 15 | 56 | 0 | 28.5 | 26.5 | 27.6 | 30.8 | 29 | 24 | — |
| 26 | 64 | 4 | 55 | 48 | 30.5 | 25.5 | 27.3 | 30.6 | 27 | 23 | — |
| 27 | 64 | 9 | 55 | 51 | 33 | 25 | 28.6 | 30.3 | 32 | 24.5 | — |
| 28 | 64 | 8 | 55 | 51 | 33.5 | 27.5 | 30.6 | 30.6 | 31.5 | 27 | — |
| 29 | 64 | 5 | 55 | 54 | 39 | 29.5 | 33.5 | 31.7 | 34 | 28 | — |
| 30 | 64 | 9 | 56 | 3 | 36.5 | 29.5 | 32.9 | 31.7 | 32.5 | 30 | — |
| 31 | 64 | 0 | 55 | 18 | 39 | 33 | 35.6 | 32.3 | 35 | 31 | — |
| | | | | | 45 | 23.5 | 30.93 | 31.31 | | | 0.28 |
* Deposit of rain, snow, or fog.
ABSTRACT OF THE METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL KEPT ON BOARD HER MAJESTY'S SHIP EREBUS.—JANUARY, 1843.
| Day. | Barometer. | Barometer. | Barometer. | Winds. | Winds. | Winds. | Winds. | Winds. | Winds. | Weather. | Weather. |
| Day. | Max. | Min. | Mean. | Direction. | Direction. | Direction. | Force. | Force. | Force. | | Weather. | Weather. | Weather. |
| | Inches. | Inches. | Inches. | | | | | | |
| 1 | 29.238 | 29.145 | 29.198 | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. Westerly p.m. Easterly. | | | 2 1 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | 4 b.c.* | |
| 2 | .220 | 28.937 | .077 | | N.E. by N. | | | 3 | | 3 b.c.g. | |
| 3 | 28.937 | .638 | 28.738 | | N. Westerly | | | 6 | | 0 g.p.s. | |
| 4 | 29.088 | .675 | .886 | | Westerly | | | 2 | | 3 b.c.g. | |
| 5 | .007 | .838 | .919 | | North | | | 3 | | 2 b.c.g. | |
| 6 | 28.979 | .811 | .924 | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. S.S.W. p.m. N.N.W. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | 2 | | 4 b.c.v. | |
| 7 | .829 | .635 | .725 | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. N.W. p.m. S.W. by W | | | 4 2 | | 1 b.c.g.p.s. 0 g. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ |
| 8 | .902 | .768 | .839 | | E.N.E. | | | 2 | | 0 f. | |
| 9 | .979 | .817 | .923 | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. S.W. p.m. N. Eastly | | | 3 1 | | 0 f.p.s. 1 b.c.g. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ |
| 10 | .918 | .876 | .892 | | S. Easterly | | | 1 | | 0 g.f.p.s. | |
| 11 | .923 | .830 | .867 | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. East p.m. S.W. | | | 1 4 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | 0 g.s. | |
| 12 | 29.069 | .926 | .989 | | S.W. by W. | | | 2 | | 0 g.p.s. | |
| 13 | .108 | 29.075 | 29.096 | | S.W. | | | 2 | | 2 b.c.g. | |
| 14 | .215 | .106 | .146 | | S.W. | | | 3 | | 0 m.g.p.s. | |
| 15 | .286 | .228 | .260 | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. S.S.W. p.m. Easterly | | | 2 1 | | 3 b.c.g. | |
| 16 | .303 | .197 | .235 | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. N.E. p.m. S.E. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | 2 | | 0 g.p.s. | |
| 17 | .394 | .301 | .368 | | S.S.W. | | | 3 | | 0 g.p.s. | |
| 18 | .358 | .157 | .253 | | S.E. | | | 3 | | 1 b.c.p.s. | |
| 19 | .157 | .075 | .109 | | S.S.E. | | | 3 | | 1 b.c.p.s. | |
| 20 | .156 | .084 | .112 | | South | | | 3 | | 0 g.p.s. | |
| 21 | .285 | .167 | .226 | | S. by W. | | | 3 | | 0 g.p.s. | |
| 22 | .298 | .073 | .178 | | Northerly | | | 3 | | 2 b.c.g. | |
| 23 | .071 | .012 | .040 | | N.N.E. | | | 3 | | 0 m.p.s. | |
| 24 | .023 | 28.961 | 28.99 | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. N.E. by E. p.m. S.S.W. | | | 3 | | 0 m.s. | |
| 25 | 28.974 | .870 | .914 | | S. W by S. | | | 5 | | 0 g.q. | |
| 26 | 29.077 | .935 | 29.020 | | S.S.W. | | | 4 | | 4 b.c.q. | |
| 27 | .191 | 29.043 | .138 | | East | | | 1 | | 1 b.c.g. | |
| 28 | .528 | .206 | .351 | | S. by E. | | | 2 | | 0 g.p.s. | |
| 29 | .616 | .513 | .584 | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. South p.m. N.E. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | 1 | | 3 b.c.g. | |
| 30 | .563 | .224 | .419 | | N.N.E. | | | 4 | | 3 b.c.m. | |
| 31 | .219 | 28.955 | .082 | | N.W. | | | 7 | | 4 b.c.q.m. | |
| | 29.616 | 28.635 | 29.0838 | | | | 2.79 | 2.79 | 2.79 | | |
* For explanation of these symbols, see Appendix to Vol. I.
​distance of forty-two, and Paulet Island at twenty miles, in sight. It was at this time blowing a strong gale from the N.N.W. and there was much swell amongst the ice, from which the ships received frequent heavy shocks, but without sustaining any serious injury.