# Banking Under Difficulties/Chapter 28

CHAPTER XXVIII.
Early Hokitika was situated on a sandy beach, overgrown with pine trees and undergrowth, through which it was scarcely possible to penetrate. Streets were gradually laid out and formed. A municipal corporation was soon established; then streets were slowly improved, and now the corporation possesses many miles of well-made, clean, healthy streets. All the houses are built of wood, covered with iron, and consequently the whole town in the densely-built parts is liable to destruction by fire. One such calamity occurred in 1869 through the careless use of kerosene, and a big gap was made in Revell-street. Much genuine sympathy was felt for the sufferers, and the handsome sum of about £900 was collected and distributed to the principal sufferers who had lost their means of earning a livelihood.
At one time nearly 200 publichouses could be counted in Revell-street from the wharf to the “Montezuma,” a distance scarcely exceeding a mile in length. I suppose almost everyone who applied for a license to retail wines and spirits got it, as the fees were useful to the corporation. The corporation deserve credit for the administration of the rates. The money was well laid out, and the town has creditable streets to show for the expenditure. The treatment of criminals can also be favourably noticed. Able-bodied prisoners are employed in useful works of road-making and police improvements, and the value of each working prisoner’s labour is set down against the expense of the prison establishment, and reckoned to be worth on an average about 2s. per diem. Their diet is regulated in some degree according to their work, and those that work and behave themselves are well treated and get good food. Among other useful pieces of work, they cleared the ground for a fine rifle range of 800 yards, leaving the original trees on each side standing, so that volunteers can practice, whichever way the wind blows.
In course of time dwelling-houses were built. At first every man slept in a tent, or at an hotel, and then little patches of gardens were formed, some for flowers and others for the purpose of growing vegetables—at first scarce and dear. Some planted potatoes; those on a terrace some distance back from the ​river, and at a much higher elevation, when they dug up their crops, dug up fish at the same time—a species of mudfish, Neochanna apoda, which seems to burrow underground, and leads a very retiring life.
The pleasant villas and pretty flower gardens now to be found along Gibson’s Quay, fronting the river, would do credit to a town of greater pretensions. Not only the streets of the town, but outlying districts are now connected, and buggies and conveyances can be driven considerable distances. To supply building material sawmills were erected; these, to get suitable trees for cutting up, and to make way into the bush, with wood tramways to bear in the logs. The tramways opened clearings into the forest, and helped to prepare the ground near at hand for building purposes, and thus the town went eastward, because on the west, it is bounded by the sandy sea beach.
I have already alluded to the discipline and order of the police force, and it may not be out of place to state, that much of the credit of this was due to the efficiency and personal character of the first inspector, Mr. Thomas Broham. The survivor of the Maungatapu murderers, the notorious Joseph Sullivan, acknowledged that the rest of the gang had to leave the Coast, Mr. Broham having made it too hot for them. But while complimenting the police and their inspector, it must be acknowledged that, generally speaking, a harder-working or more honest population it would be difficult to find; nay most of them were warm-hearted and unselfish. Witness the establishment of an efficient hospital, the claim of admission to which was only that a person was sick and required medical attendance. No doubt at times this worthy institution was imposed upon, but in innumerable instances the services rendered were invaluable.
In 1865, when people from all parts flocked to Hokitika, and when all the population were housed in canvas tents, there were no roads or streets; the climate was considered severe, and many suffered in health for want of vegetables and proper food. But now that moderately comfortable houses have been built, and plentiful supplies of fresh meat and vegetables can be obtained, the climate is found to be extremely mild and equable. No doubt the rainfall is heavy—120 inches per annum—but the rosy looks of the children running about the streets, bring back earlier associations with Great Britain, than a like comparison with the youth of any other colony in the southern hemisphere.
From March 1865 to the end of 1869, the total yield of gold exported from the whole of the west coast of the middle island of New Zealand amounted to 1,719,749 ozs.; declared value, £6,878,996; or if the parcels that were known to have been surreptitiously shipped without paying duty be added, the totals may be set down as 1,750,000 ozs., of the value of £7,000,000 sterling, to a fluctuating population of about 10,000, and at one time about ​50,000 at the most. The effect of so much wealth so suddenly acquired produced similar results as at the older goldfields of Victoria and New South Wales. Much of it was recklessly squandered in publichouses, in dissipation, and gambling, while many carefully hoarded their savings, and were able to lay the foundations of future prosperity. There may be seen many, who began with no capital save their own intelligence and forethought, who are now thriving citizens, respected for their industry and integrity, and who well deserve the success their early efforts have secured.
Suburban and country lands have been cultivated with encouraging results.
Much capital has been expended in hydraulic works of considerable magnitude, which have given remunerative returns to their proprietors. Flumes and water-races many miles in length have been constructed, sometimes tunnelled through hills, and then carried for great distances across gullies and high trees to bring the hose to play on the auriferous dirt to enable the operator to recover the minute specks of precious metal.
After the year 1869 the yield of gold decreased, and many of the diggers migrated to other fields. But the results of finding gold remain; the resources of the country are, to a moderate extent, developed, and an impetus given to future prosperity.
In concluding my remarks on the progress of Hokitika and the West Coast generally, I shall briefly enumerate a few of the leading incidents that have occurred since the wild and apparently inhospitable shore was first invaded by bands of stalwart diggers. At first tents were pitched on the beach just above high-water mark, amidst heaps of decayed trees, roots and stumps, torn up by spates, washed out to sea and tossed about in the tumbling surf till they had assumed all sorts of fantastic shapes. The site of the seaward part of the town was covered by masses of driftwood. Then officials arrived from Canterbury, and the question how to keep the bar clear was a puzzle to engineers, not settled even at this day. Groins and wing dams were constructed at considerable expense, and a line of wharves on the river bank, called Gibson’s Quay, was built, at which schooners and steam vessels of light draft could be berthed. A municipal council was incorporated, which did good service. The first mayor, Mr. J. A. Bonar, efficiently and gracefully filled that position when Sir George Grey, the then Governor, visited the Coast in 1867, and whom the citizens entertained at a banquet in the Theatre Royal. Mr. Bonar has since worthily and energetically discharged various offices of the highest trust and importance, and still retains the confidence of the inhabitants.
In the early days of the occupation of the Coast, when business was brisk and vessels were crowding to the port, I have seen many wrecks strewn along the beach. As soon as a vessel touches the bottom, the rolling surf beats it up high and ​dry. By means of expensive appliances, most of those ships which were strong and well-formed, were raised on ways, and launched into the river when the tide was favourable. The squatters and farmers of Canterbury, being anxious for a market for their stock, pressed their Government for a road to be made to the West Coast, whither they could drive their fat cattle, and surplus sheep. This road stands as a feat of engineering skill (on many of the passes through the mountains the first surveyors and assistants had to be lowered and raised by ropes over perpendicular precipices), its cost exceeding a million sterling, since it was first undertaken. The road was finished, and owing to the clamour for self-government, Westland was declared a county, with all the officers and paraphernalia of a little Parliament. But self-government is a toy the people have almost got tired of playing with. The form has been altered several times, and yet I am not sure that it gives even a reasonable amount of satisfaction. Since the Vogel Government borrowed so liberally in the English market, many little pickings have come to Westland. Country roads, hitherto impassable, have been laid out and substantially constructed, and water races and harbour improvements have been made of a permanent character. Friendly benefit societies have been formed of the different orders that prevail in other colonies. These are in a thriving condition, and are well and liberally supported.
Two tramways started from the west end of the town, both now unused, since the public roads were practicable for drays and horse traffic. Before the tramways were in operation, long strings of pack-horses used to be the means of transporting supplies to the outlying districts. In the suburbs pretty drives and shady walks are to be found. The trees are interlaced with climbing plants of great variety, and the undergrowth of mosses and exquisite ferns of singular grace and beauty. A person who is sure-footed enough to walk on a single wooden rail of, say three inches wide (belonging to one of the saw-mills), could penetrate to places in the forest full of charming interest that would well repay a walk. A walk along the sea beach is also enjoyable, and sometimes creatures of rare forms are thrown up at high water out of reach of the returning tide. At one time a whale 56 ft. long and 12 ft. broad at the extension of the tail was found. A kangaroo-fish, about 18 in. long, with legs and webbed feet like a frog, was found near the embouchure of the Teremakau. Frost fish, “hiku,” of the Maories (Lepidopus Candatus) is esteemed the most delicious fish in New Zealand; these are sometimes found, but only on frosty mornings. It must be recollected the mails were carried along the beach to Greymouth when the tide was out, and the coach traversed the ground twice a-day. Although the area of the country is considerable, there is only available a very insignificant portion fit for reclamation for ​agricultural pursuits; yet energetic individuals struggle along under very trying difficulties. An exhibition of works of art, &c., was held in 1872, and showed a surplus after clearing all expenses. A second one was held at Christmas, 1873, which turned out a great success, the surplus fund being devoted to the establishment of a mineralogical museum. From public and private subscriptions various prizes and medals were awarded to the succeessful exhibitors. The exhibits consisted of oil-paintings, drawings, water-colours, photographs, curios, ladies’ industrial, floricultural, horticultural, dairy produce, poultry, miscellaneous, including manufactures of bricks, leather, soap, ales, &c. Religious ordinances were soon observed. In the early part of 1866 the first minister arrived. He was a Roman Catholic priest, who held service in a building adjoining the bank. Then ministers of other denominations (including the Bishop of Christchurch, who travelled overland and held service in the Corinthian Hall) followed. They were usually hard-working devoted disciples of Christ, and were much esteemed for their zeal and untiring industry. There are now churches and chapels to satisfy the wants of the different creeds. There are also now efficient well-conducted schools, where the young are fairly taught all the ordinary elements of education.
Coal is found all along the Coast. It is advantageously worked from the Buller to the Grey. Southwards, indications of coal are found, but they have not been turned to account yet. The coal turned out at the Grey is good for gas, as well as fuel, and gas companies have been established at Greymouth and Hokitika, both paying satisfactory dividends.
The country towards the great backbone, or dividing range, abounds in various mineral ores, which, when the country is better opened up, are likely to yield remunerative returns to enterprising adventurers.
It should be borne in mind, that the establishment of branch banks afforded to the diggers, and business people, settled along the different townships of the Coast, very tangible advantages. The diggers received full value for every ounce of gold they produced, and the traders had their cash and securities safely kept and ready at call when required. It is not too much to claim a small share of credit for the good management of banks which prevailed on the West Coast. No encouragement was given to undue speculation, and each man’s financial abilities were dealt with on their merits, and consequently business flowed, and receded, with quiet equanimity, and few failures of any magnitude occurred. As a rule the bankers secured the goodwill and respect of the community.
And now, my dear reader, I must say farewell. I trust you have realised the promises of my preface. I have “nothing extenuated, nor have I set down aught in malice.” On re​perusing my diaries I seem to live over again the life therein depicted. Past times are brought before me in panoramic succession—times that have left ineffaceable traces, I trust, of good on myself, my compeers, and on this my adopted country. With the expression of this hope I lay down my pen, avowing that “at all times I have enjoy’d greatly, have suffer’d greatly, both with those that loved me and alone.”
THE END.