# A narrative of travels on the Amazon and Rio Negro

Contents
Contents
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I. :
| pará. ||
| Arrival at Pará — Appearance of the city and its environs — The inhabitants and their costumes — Vegetation — Sensitive plants —Lizards — Ants and other insects — Birds —Climate— Food of the inhabitants | 1 |
| CHAPTER II. ||
| pará. ||
| Festas — Portuguese and Brazilian currency — M. Borlaz' estate— Walk to the rice-mills — The virgin forest, its plants and insects — Milk-tree — Saw and rice-mills — Caripe or pottery-tree — India-rubber-tree — Flowers and trees in blossom— Sailba ants, wasps, and chegoes — Journey by water to Magoary — The monkeys — The commandante at Laranjeiras — Vampire bats — The timber-trade — Boa constrictor and sloth | 13 |
| CHAPTER III. ||
| the tocantíns. ||
| Canoe, stores, and crew — River Mojú — Igaripé Miri — Cametá— Senhor Gomez and his establishment — Search for a dinner — Jambouassú — Polite letter — Baião and its inhabitants — A swarm of wasps— Enter the rocky district — The Mutuca — Difficulty of getting men — A village without houses — Catching an alligator — Duck-shooting — Aroyas, and the Falls — A nocturnal concert — Blue macaws — Turtles' eggs— A slight accident — Capabilities of the country — Return to Pará | 35 |
| CHAPTER IV. ||
| mexiana and marajó. ||
| Visit to Olería— Habits of birds— Voyage to Mexiana — Arrival — Birds — Description of the island— Population— Slaves, their treatment and habits— Journey to the Lake— Beautiful stream — Fish and birds at the lake — Catching alligators — Strange sounds, and abundance of animal life — Walk back — Jaguar meat — Visit to Jungcal in Marajó — Embarking cattle — Ilha das Frechas | 57 |
| CHAPTER V. ||
| the guamá and capim rivers. ||
| Natterer's hunter, Luiz — Birds and insects — Prepare for a journey — First sight of the Piroroco — St. Domingo — Senhor Calistro — Slaves and slavery — Anecdote — Cane-field — Journey into the forest — Game — Explanation of the Piroroco — Return to Para — Bell-birds and yellow parrots | 77 |
| CHAPTER VI. ||
| santarem and montealegre. ||
| Leave Pará — Enter the Amazon — Its peculiar features — Arrive at Santarem — The town and its inhabitants — Voyage to Montealegre — Mosquito plague and its remedy — Journey to the Serras — A cattle estate — Rocks, picture writings, and cave — The Victoria regia. — Mandiocca fields — A festa — Return to Santarem — Beautiful insects — Curious tidal phenomenon — Leave Santarem — Obydos — Villa Nova — A kind priest — Serpa — Christmas Day on the Amazon | 92 |
| CHAPTER VII. ||
| barra do rio negro and the solimões. ||
| Appearance of the Rio Negro — The city of Barra, its trade and its inhabitants — Journey up the Rio Negro — The Lingoa Geral — The umbrella bird — Mode of life of the Indians — Return to Barra — Strangers in the city — Visit to the Solimões — The Gapó — Manaquery —Country life—Curl-crested Araçaris— Vultures and Oncas—Tobacco growing and manufacture— The Cow-fish—Senhor Brandão—A fishing party with Senhor Henrique—Letters from England | 112 |
CHAPTER VIII. :
| the upper rio negro. ||
| Quit Barra for the Upper Rio Negro — Canoe and cargo — Great width of the river — Carvoeiro and Barcellos — Granite rocks — Castanheiro — A polite old gentleman — São Jozé — A new language — The cataracts — São Gabriel — Nossa Senhora da Guia — Senhor L. and his family — Visit to the river Cobati — An Indian village — The Serra — Cocks of the rock — Return to Guia — Frei Jozé dos Santos Innocentos | 133 |
| CHAPTER IX. ||
| javita. ||
| Leave Guía — Marabitánas — Serra de Cocoi — Enter Venezuela — São Carlos- — — Pass the Cassiquiare — Antonio Dias — Indian shipbuilders — Feather-work — Maróa and Pimichin — A black jaguar — Poisonous serpents — Fishing — Walk to Javita — Residence there — Indian road-makers — Lanuage and customs — A description of Javita — Runaway Indians — Collections at Javita — Return to Tómo — A domestic roil — Marabitanas and its inhabitants — Reach Guia | 159 |
| CHAPTER X. ||
| first ascent of the river uaupés. ||
| Rapid current — An Indian Malccca — The Inmates — A Festival — Paint and ornaments — Illness — São Jeronvymo — Passing the cataracts — Jauarité — The Tushaúa Calistro — Singular palm — Birds — Cheap provisions — Edible ants, and earthworms — A grand dance — Feather ornaments — The snake-dance — The Capi — A State cigar — Ananárapicóma — Fish — Chegoes — Pass down the falls — Tame birds — Orchids — Piums — Eating dirt — Poisoning — Return to Guía — Manoel Joaquim — Annoying delays | 188 |
| CHAPTER XI. ||
| on the rio negro. ||
| Difficulties of starting — Descending the falls — Catching an alligator — Tame parrots — A fortnight in Barra — Frei Jozé's diplomacy — Pickling a cow-fish — A river storm — Brazilian veracity — Wanawáca — Productiveness of the country — A large snake — São Gabriel — São Joaquim | 218 |
| CHAPTER XII. ||
| the cataracts of the uaupés. ||
| Start for the Uaupés — São Jeronymo and Jauarité — Indians run away — Numerous cataracts — Reach Carurú — Difficult passage — Painted Malocca — Devil music — More falls — Ocoki — Curious rocks — Reach Uarucapurí — Cobeu Indians — Reach Mucúra — An Indian’s house and family — Height above the sea — Tenente Jesuino — -Return to Uarucapurí — Indian prisoners — Voyage to Jauarité — Correcting the calendar — Delay at São Jeronymo | 236 |
| CHAPTER XIII. ||
| são jeronymo to the downs. ||
| Voyage down the Rio Negro — Arrive at Barra — Obtaining a passport — State of the city — Portuguese and Brazilian enterprise — System of credit — -Trade — Immorality, and its causes — Leave Barra — A storm on the Amazon — Salsaparilha — A tale about Death — Para — The yellow fever — Sail for England — Ship takes fire — Ten days in the boats — Get picked up — Heavy gales — Short of provisions — Storm in the Channel — Arrive at Deal . | 256 |
| CHAPTER XIV. ||
| the physical geography and geology of the amazon valley | 280 |
| CHAPTER XV. ||
| vegetation of the amazon valley | 300 |
| CHAPTER XVI. ||
| observations on the zoology of the amazon district | 310 |
| CHAPTER XVII. ||
| on the aborigines of the amazon | 331 |
| appendix | 362 |
LIST OF FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.
| 1. — | portrait of mr. wallace | Facing Title |
| 2. — | map of the amazon and parts of its basin visited by mr. wallace | Facing page 1 |
| 3. — | chapel at nazaré near pará | 14 |
| 4 . — | a brazilian plantation on the lower amazons | 95 |
| 5. — | on the rio negro | 136 |
| 6. — | a village on the rio negro | 138 |
| 7. — | a stream in the forest | 199 |
| 8. — | an indian village on the rio negro | 232 |
| 9 .— | granite rocks and veins, etc. | 293 |
| 10. — | forms of granite rocks | 294 |
| 11. — | comparative curves of temperature, pará and london | 297 |
| 12. — | curves of pressure and rain at para | 298 |
| 13 .— | indian implements and domestic articles | 350 |
| 14. — | indian implements and domestic articles | 352 |
| 15. — | figures on the granite rocks, river uaupés | 360 |
| 16. — | figures on the granite rocks, river uaupés | 362 |