# Mrs. Beeton's Book of Household Management/Chapter XXXI

PASTRY MAKING, TARTS, TARTLETS, ICING, ETC.
Pastry.—Pastry is one of the most important branches of culinary science, and possibly one of the oldest, for at a very early period the Orientals understood the art of utilizing flour for this purpose. In its primitive form pastry was simply a mixture of flour, oil and honey; and it appears to have been confined to these substances for centuries, even among the southern nations of the European continent. At the commencement of the middle ages a change began to take place; butter frequently replaced the oil, salt was used as a flavouring ingredient, and the qualities of richness and lightness which are imparted by eggs had been discovered. The next step was to use paste as an enclosure for meat, and when this advance was made, its use in combination with fruit, cream, etc., followed as a matter of course. The art advanced step by step until the middle of the nineteenth century, the dinner tables of the intervening period having afforded considerable scope for the display of constructive and decorative skill. Since the dinner à la Russe banished almost everything of an edible nature from the table, any talent in this direction has been chiefly expended on small pastries, which, if less imposing in structure than those of past ages, yet afford a wide field for ingenuity, taste and manipulative skill.
The recipes on the following pages comprise what may be termed standard pastes, and also their many variations. Numerous illustrations are given of the methods in which the respective preparations may be utilized for pies, tarts, tartlets, etc., with the directions for compounding the mixtures employed for filling such pastry.
Pastry Making.—The quality especially to be desired in pastry is lightness, and this depends almost entirely upon the amount of cold air in the pastry when expansion takes place in the oven. The best pastry is therefore that which contains the greatest quantity of the coldest air prior to baking. The repeated foldings and rollings to which puff paste is subjected have this increase of air in view; while in short crust the expansion is aided by adding baking-powder, or other acid, and alkaline substances, which, when moistened, combine to form a constituent identical in its composition and effect with that of the ​atmospheric air to which puff paste entirely owes its lightness. The difference between puff, or flaky and short crust is that in the former there are thin layers of air and pastry alternating, and in the latter the air fills small cavities all over the paste.
Puff Paste usually consists of flour and butter in equal proportions, but in short crust the proportions of fat and flour vary, and may be one-fourth for an economical paste, or three-fourths for a rich short crust. For ordinary purposes ½ a lb. of butter or fat to each lb. of flour, will, with the addition of a good teaspoonful of baking-powder, make a sufficiently rich crust. Fine starchy flour makes the lightest pastry, the larger proportion of gluten in household flour—although exceedingly valuable from a dietetic point of view—tends to make pastry, tough. Flour should always be stored in a cool, perfectly dry place. By sieving it before use, air is introduced, and if there are any lumps these may be rubbed out, with the result that the pastry will be lighter. When baking-powder is used it should be sieved with the flour, as this ensures its even distribution.
The amount of liquid required to moisten a given quantity of flour varies within narrow limits, but it may be approximately stated as being ½ to that of the flour. As a rule, 1 lb. of flour will need about ½ a pint of water, but allowance must be made for the addition of eggs, or when the fat has been reduced to a semi-liquid condition by undue friction, or prolonged contact with hot hands. The consistency of the butter determines the amount of water to be added to puff paste; when the butter is soft the paste must be equally so, otherwise it is impossible to keep the layers separate, and thus the paste is deprived of some of its flakiness. Rich short crust is lighter and more crumbly when made very stiff, but unless plain short crust is sufficiently moistened it is hard and tough. Lemon-juice, like other acids, tends to make pastry lighter.
Butter and Fat.—The butter used for making pastry should be good and sweet, for nothing imparts its own unpleasant flavour to everything it comes in contact with more decidedly than inferior butter. Salt butter is not objectionable, if before being used it is well washed, and afterwards squeezed in a floured cloth to free it from moisture. Rancid butter may have some of its disagreeable flavour removed by kneading it first in new milk and afterwards in water. For ordinary pastry clarified fat may be recommended in preference to lard or dripping, for it is entirely free from the fatty taste which characterizes the purest home-made lard, while that bought ready prepared is frequently adulterated, and, moreover, has occasionally a strong, unpleasant taste. The objectionable characteristic flavour of dripping may be in some measure removed by creaming it, that is beating it with a knife on a plate, and raising it well with every movement of the hand, so as to subject every part to the purifying influence of the atmosphere.
Manipulation.—The fat should be lightly, but very thoroughly, rubbed in with the tips of the fingers, never with the palms of the hands. The ​water should be added gradually, but quickly, to prevent hard lumps being formed, and to keep the consistence of the whole mass uniform. A knife should always be used for mixing, it being so much cooler than the hand. Some little practice is necessary to acquire the light, firm, even pressure and dexterous movements upon which success so largely depends. Paste should never be rolled backwards and forwards, but in short forward rolls, lifting the rolling-pin between the rolls. Puff paste should never be rolled off the edges, as this may force out some of the air; it is better to thin the edges by a little pressure, or an inward roll.
Puff Paste is allowed to stand between the turns in order that the butter may harden, and thus keep the layers of paste and butter separate. Paste to which baking-powder has been added should be put into the oven as speedily as possible, otherwise some of the effect of the baking-powder is wasted, its action beginning immediately the paste is moistened.
Baking.—All kinds of pastry should be baked in a moderately hot oven, for a high temperature is necessary to expand the air or gas, and thus make the pastry light, and also to burst the grains of the flour, thereby enabling these to absorb the fat immediately it melts. Unless the heat is sufficiently great to act upon the flour in this manner the melted fat runs out and leaves the paste less rich, and also, probably, both heavy and tough. An oven with a good bottom heat is desirable for baking tarts and tartlets; when heated from above it is advisable to bake, or partially bake, the tarts before filling them.
Icing.—Very pretty results can be obtained by the use of Icing tubes or cones, which may be purchased at any ironmonger's. Make an ordinary conical sugar bag of paper, place an Icing tube at the bottom, and fill the bag with Icing sugar. Then tear away the paper covering the point of the tube and squeeze the sugar through.
Paste, Crust, etc.
1645.—BATTER FOR FRYING.
Ingredients.—4 ozs. of flour, ½ an oz. of butter (melted), 1 tablespoonful of cream, 1 yolk of egg, 2 whites of eggs, a good pinch of salt, ⅛ of a pint of warm water (about).
Method.—Sieve the flour into a basin, add the salt, yolk of egg, butter and and cream, and stir until smooth, adding the water gradually. Beat well, put aside for at least ½ an hour, then add the whites of eggs, previously stiffly-whipped, and use as required.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d.
​1646.—BATTER FOR PANCAKES.
See Yorkshire Pudding, Recipe No. 1930.
1647.—BATTER FOR FRYING. (Another Method.)
Ingredients.—4 level tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 tablespoonful of salad oil, or oiled butter, 2 stiffly-whisked whites of eggs, a good pinch of salt, ¼ of a pint of warm water (about).
Method.—Sieve the flour into a basin, add the salt and salad oil, stir gently, adding the water gradually until the batter is sufficiently liquid to offer little resistance to the spoon, then beat well for 10 minutes. Put aside for about ½ an hour, add warm water until the batter has the consistency of good single cream, then stir in the stiffly-whisked whites of eggs, and use as required.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 3½d. to 4d.
1648.—BRIOCHE PASTE. (Fr.—Pâte de Brioche.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of flour, 4 ozs. of butter, ½ an oz. of yeast, 2 large or 3 small eggs, ¼ of a gill of milk, 1 teaspoonful of castor sugar, salt.
Method.—Mix the yeast with a little tepid water, stir in sufficient flour to form a stiff batter, and let it stand for 1 hour in a warm place. Put the remainder of the flour into a basin, add a good pinch of salt, and the beaten egg. Warm the milk, melt the butter, add gradually to the yeast, etc., then mix together the contents of the 2 basins, and knead well for at least 15 minutes. Cover, let it remain in a moderately cool place for 2 or 3 hours, then shape or mould as desired, and bake in a brisk oven.
Time.—From 2 to 3 hours. Average Cost, 9d. or 10d.
1649.—BUTTER CRUST. (For Boiled Puddings.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of flour, 6 ozs. of butter, ½ a pint of water.
Method.—With a knife mix the flour to a smooth paste, adding the water gradually. Roll out thinly, place the butter over it in small pieces, dredge lightly with flour, and fold the paste over. Roll out again, and use as required.
Time.—About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. or 7d. Sufficient for 1½ lbs. of paste.
1650.—CHOUX PASTE. (Fr.—Pâte à Choux.)
Ingredients.—4 ozs. of fine flour, 4 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of sugar, 2 large or 3 small eggs, ½ pint of water, salt, vanilla-essence or other flavouring.
Method.—Put the water, butter, sugar, and a good pinch of salt into a stewpan, and when boiling add the flour, previously well dried and ​sieved, and stir and cook gently for at least 10 minutes. Let it cool a little, then beat in the eggs one at a time, add a few drops of the flavouring ingredient, and use as required.
Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 8d.
1651.—DRIPPING CRUST. (For Plain Pies and Puddings.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of flour, 6 ozs. of clarified dripping, ½ a pint of water.
Method.—With a knife mix the flour to a smooth paste, adding the water gradually. Roll the paste out thinly, place ⅓ of the dripping over it in small pieces, and fold over. Repeat this process twice, using ⅓ of fat each time, and use as required.
Time.—20 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. to 5d. Sufficient for 2 lbs.
1652.—FLAKY PASTE. (For Pies, Tarts and Tartlets.)
Ingredients.—12 ozs. of flour, 9 ozs. of butter (or butter and lard mixed, ¼ of a pint of water (about).
Method.—Sieve the flour into a basin, and rub in lightly ⅓ of the butter. Add the water and mix into a smooth paste, more or less moist, according to the consistency of the butter, with which it must agree in this respect; roll it out into a long, narrow strip. Divide the remainder of the butter into 3 equal portions; put one portion on the paste in small pieces, dredge lightly with flour, fold it evenly in 3, turn it round so as to have the folded edges to the right and left when rolling, press the edges lightly with the rolling-pin, to prevent the air escaping, and roll out as before. Repeat this process with the other portions of butter. The pastry may be used at once, but it will be lighter if allowed to stand for 1 hour in a cool place before being used. In making-up, handle as lightly, and roll as evenly, as possible. Bake in a hot oven, and avoid opening the oven door until the pastry has risen and become partially baked.
Time.—½ an hour to bake. Average Cost, 10d.
1653.—FLEAD CRUST.
Ingredients.—1 lb. of flour, ½ a lb. of flead (the leaf or pork from which lard is made), 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder, ¼ of a teaspoonful of salt, ½ a pint of cold water.
Method.—Remove any skin there may be, and slice the flead into thin flakes, and mix it with the flour on the paste board. Roll it lightly with the rolling-pin. Place in a basin, add the baking-powder, salt, and sufficient cold water to form a fairly stiff paste. Roll out, and use for meat-pies, etc.
Time.—10 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. Sufficient for 1 large pie.
​1654.—FRENCH CRUST OR PÂTE BRISEE.
Ingredients.—1 lb. of flour, 6 ozs. of butter, 2 eggs, ½ a saltspoonful of salt, ½ a pint of water (about).
Method.—Sieve the flour, add the salt, rub the butter lightly in, and mix into a smooth paste with the eggs and water, adding the latter gradually as the paste must be very firm. See Pork Pie.
Time.—About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. to 10d. Sufficient for 2 lbs,
1655.—FRENCH PUFF PASTE. (Founded on M. Ude's Recipe.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of good butter, 1 lb. of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, ½ a saltspoonful of salt, about ¼ of a pint of water.
Method.—Remove as much moisture as possible from the butter by squeezing it well in a dry cloth. Put 2 ozs. aside, form the remainder into a ball, and keep in a cool place. Sieve the flour, rub in the 2 ozs. of butter, add the salt, and moisten with the yolks of eggs and water, adding the latter gradually until the right consistency is obtained. Knead quickly and lightly until smooth, then roll out to the thickness of about ½ an inch. Enfold the ball of butter in the paste, press lightly with the rolling pin until the butter is flattened, and afterwards roll out as thinly as possible without allowing the butter to break through. Fold the paste in three, roll out thinly as before, again fold in three, and put it aside. Except in very hot weather, the paste will become sufficiently cool and firm in about 20 minutes, when it should be rolled out twice, and again put aside in a cold place for about 20 minutes before receiving its fifth and sixth turns. After the sixth turn the paste is ready for use, and may be converted into tartlets, patties, vol-au-vent, etc., particulars of which will be found under respective headings.
Time.—About 2 hours. Average Cost, 1s. to 1s. 2d. per lb.
1656.—GENOESE PASTE. (Fr.—Pâte Génoise.)
Ingredients.—3 ozs. of fine flour, 4 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of butter, 5 eggs.
Method.—Dry and sieve the flour, separate the whites of the eggs from the yolks, to the latter add the sugar, work vigorously until it has a thick creamy appearance, then stir in the butter melted. Whip the whites to a stiff froth, stir in the flour, then mix lightly, but thoroughly, with the contents of the other basin. Pour the mixture into a papered, buttered tin, and bake in a moderately hot oven.
Time.—To prepare and bake, about 1 hour. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 1 medium-sized cake.
​1657.—GENOESE PASTRY. (Another Method.) (Fr.—Pâte Génoise.)
Ingredients.—3 ozs. of fine flour, 3 ozs. of butter, 4 ozs. of castor sugar, 4 eggs.
Method.—Break the eggs into a basin, add the sugar, place the basin over a saucepan of boiling water and whisk until lukewarm. Now remove the basin and continue the whisking until the mixture becomes thick and creamy, then add the butter melted, and stir the previously sifted flour in as lightly as possible. Have ready a well-buttered papered tin, pour in the mixture, and bake in a moderately hot oven.
Time.—To bake, about ½ an hour. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 1 medium-sized cake.
1658.—NEAPOLITAN PASTE.
Ingredients.—10 ozs. of flour, 8 ozs. of castor sugar, 4 ozs. of butter, 6 ozs. of sweet almonds, 1 oz. of bitter almonds, the yolks of 6 eggs, the finely-grated rind of 1 lemon, salt.
Method.—Blanch and pound the almonds to a smooth paste, moistening from time to time with a little cold water to prevent them oiling. Add the flour, sugar, butter, lemon rind, and a good pinch of salt, and stir in the yolks of eggs. Work into a smooth paste, put aside in a cool place for about 1½ hours, then roll out rather thinly, and cut into squares or rounds. Bake in a moderate oven.
Time.—To bake, about ½ an hour. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for about 2 lbs.
1659.—PANCAKE BATTER.
See Batter for Frying, Recipes Nos. 1645–1647. See Yorkshire Pudding, Recipe No. 1930.
1660.—PASTE FOR RAISED PIES.
Ingredients.—1 lb. of flour, 6 ozs. of lard, ¼ of a pint of water, ½ a teaspoonful of salt.
Method.—Put the flour and salt into a warm basin, and let it stand near the fire until it feels dry and warm. Boil the lard and water for 5 minutes, then pour the mixture into the centre of the flour, and mix well with a spoon until cool enough to knead with the hands. Knead well, keeping it warm during the process, let it remain near the fire for about 1 hour, then re-knead and use at once.
Throughout the processes of mixing, kneading and moulding, the paste must be kept warm, otherwise moulding will be extremely difficult. On the other hand, if the paste be too warm, it will be so soft and pliable that it cannot retain its shape, or support its own weight. ​Fine flour is not to be recommended for this purpose, for it is deficient in gluten, a sticky tenacious substance which greatly increases the adhesive properties of the paste, and so makes it easier to mould.
Time.—1¼ hours. Average Cost, 5d. Sufficient for 1 large pie.
1661.—PASTE, TRANSPARENT.
Ingredients.—1 lb. of flour (dry and sifted), ¾ of a lb. of butter, 1 egg.
Method.—Wash the butter in 2 or 3 waters, and afterwards remove as much moisture as possible by means of a dry cloth. Melt the butter over a gentle fire, let it remain until nearly cold, then stir in the flour and egg. Knead lightly until smooth, roll out very thinly, and use for tartlets, etc.
Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 1s. Sufficient for 2 lbs.
1662.—PASTE, TO KEEP.
Paste not intended for immediate use should be enfolded in grease-proof or slightly buttered paper, and kept in a cool place.
1663.—POTATO PASTE.
Ingredients.—1 lb. of dry floury potato, 1 lb. of flour, 2 ozs. each of lard and dripping, 1 egg, a little warm milk, 1 good teaspoonful of baking powder, a good pinch of salt.
Method.—Bake enough potatoes (in their skins) to yield 1 lb. of potato, which mash smoothly or pass through a sieve. Rub the lard and dripping lightly into the flour, add the potato, baking powder and salt, and stir in the egg and enough milk to form a smooth paste. Roll out to about 1 inch in thickness, cut into rounds or squares, place in a greased tin, and bake in a moderate oven, turning 2 or 3 times during the process, that both sides may be equally browned. Split, butter liberally, and serve at once.
Time.—To bake, about 25 minutes. Average Cost, 7d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1664.—POTATO PASTE, GERMAN. (To serve with Game or Poultry.)
Ingredients.—2 lb. of hot potatoes, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 eggs, grated Parmesan cheese, egg and breadcrumbs, frying fat.
Method.—Pass the hot potato quickly through a sieve, or mash them smoothly. Stir in the butter and eggs, spread smoothly on a dish, making the layer about ¾ of an inch in thickness, and, when cold, cut it into rounds or squares. Coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs mixed more or less liberally with cheese, according to taste, and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Serve as an accompaniment to game or poultry.
Time.—To fry, about 5 minutes. Average Cost, 10d. to 1s. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
​1665.—PUFF PASTE. (Fr.—Feuilletage.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of flour, 1 lb. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, about ⅓ of a pint cold water.
Method.—Wash and squeeze the butter in cold water, dry well in a floured cloth, shape into a square about the size of a slice of sandwich bread, and keep in a cool place while the paste is being prepared. Sieve the flour on to a marble slab, or board, make a well in the centre, put in the lemon-juice, and add water gradually until a smooth paste is formed. The condition of the butter determines the consistency; when soft, the paste must be equally so. Knead the paste until smooth, then roll it out into a strip a little wider than the butter, and rather more than twice its length. Place the butter on one half of the paste, fold the other half over, enclosing the butter entirely, and press the edges together with the rolling pin. Let it remain in a cool place for about 15 minutes, then roll out to about 3 times the original length, but keeping the width the same, and fold exactly in three. Turn the paste round so that the folded edges are on the right and left, roll and fold again, and put aside for 15 minutes. Repeat this until the paste has been rolled out 6 times. The rolling should be done as evenly as possible, and the paste kept in a long narrow shape which, when folded, forms a square. Each time the paste is rolled out it may be well sprinkled with flour, but it must be evenly distributed with a paste-brush, and all the loose flour carefully brushed off before beginning to roll. When the paste has had its 6th roll it is ready for use; it should be baked in a hot oven, and until the paste has risen and become partially baked, the oven door should not be opened, because a current of cold air may cause the flakes to collapse on one side.
Time.—1½ hours. Average Cost, 1s. to 1s. 2d. per lb.
1666.—ROUGH PUFF PASTE, OR HALF-PUFF PASTE. (Fr.—Pâte Demi-Feuilletage.)
Ingredients.—8 ozs. of flour, 6 ozs. of butter (or equal quantities of butter and lard), ½ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt, about ¼ of a pint of water.
Method.—Sieve the flour on to a pasteboard, divide the butter into pieces about the size of a small walnut and mix them lightly with the flour. Make a well in the centre, put in the lemon-juice, salt, and 1 tablespoonful of water, mix lightly, keeping the pieces of butter intact, and add water gradually until a moderately stiff paste is formed. Roll into a long strip, fold it equally in 3, turn it round so as to have the folded edges to the right and left, and roll out as before. Repeat until the paste has been rolled out 4 times, then use; or, if convenient, let it remain for 1 hour in a cool place before being used.
Time.—½ an hour. Average Cost, 8d. if butter is used. Sufficient for 1 pie of average size.
​1667.—RICH SHORT CRUST.
Ingredients.—1 lb. of flour, ¾ of a lb. of butter, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 level tablespoonful of castor sugar, 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder.
Method.—Rub the butter lightly into the flour, add the baking-powder, sugar, yolks of eggs, and a little water if necessary, but this paste must be rather stiff, and when the butter is soft, or the paste is being mixed in a warm place, only a few drops of water may be required. Roll out thinly and use at once. The crust for fruit tarts should be lightly brushed over with cold water, and dredged with castor sugar before being baked.
Time.—¼ of an hour. Average Cost, 1s. 2d. Sufficient for 2 tarts of medium size, or 24 patty-cases.
1668.—SHORT CRUST.
Ingredients.—8 ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of lard, 1 yolk of egg, 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder, a good pinch of salt, about ⅛ of a pint of water.
Method.—Rub the butter and lard lightly into the flour, add the baking-powder, salt, yolk of egg, and as much water as is necessary to form a stiff paste. Roll out to the required thickness and use at once.
Time.—¼ of an hour. Average Cost, about 4½d. Sufficient for 1 medium-sized tart.
1669.—SHORT CRUST, PLAIN.
Ingredients.—½ lb. of flour, 3 ozs. of lard, clarified fat, or dripping, 1 teaspoonful baking-powder (heaped), ¼ of a teaspoonful of salt, ¼ of a pint of water.
Method.—Pass the flour, salt, and baking-powder through a sieve into a large basin, then rub in the fat, add the water, and work into a smooth paste with a knife. Roll out to desired shape and thickness, and use at once. When required for fruit tarts, 1 tablespoonful of sugar should be added to the above ingredients.
Time.—¼ of an hour. Average Cost, 3d. Sufficient for 1 medium-sized tart.
1670.—SUET CRUST, RICH.
Ingredients.—8 ozs. of flour, 3 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 6 ozs. of suet, 1 heaped teaspoonful baking-powder, ¼ of a teaspoonful of salt, about ⅓ pint of water.
HOW TO MAKE PASTRY.
Sieve the flour, add water, and mix with the fingers; roll out and place the butter in the centre; fold the ends over, making an envelope for the butter; roll out; method of flaking edge of pies; method of cutting out tartlets or bouchées; tartlets or bouchées for baking.
PIES AND TARTLETS.
1. Sausage Rolls. 2. French Jam Tartlets. 3. Raised Pork Pie.
​exceedingly light and easily-digested pudding, but in consequence of extreme lightness it is liable to break if turned out of the basin.
Time.— ¼ of an hour. Average Cost, 5d. Sufficient for 1 fair sized pudding.
1671.—SUET CRUST.
Ingredients.—12 ozs. of flour, 6 ozs. of suet, 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder, ¼ teaspoonful of salt, ⅓ of a pint of water.
Method.—Chop the suet finely with a little of the flour, mix it with the other dry ingredients, and add water to form a moderately stiff paste. Roll out and use at once. This paste is equally suitable for meat pudding, jam roly-poly, or plain suet pudding.
Time.—¼ of an hour. Average Cost, 5d. Sufficient for 1 large pudding.
1672.—SUET CRUST FOR MEAT PIES.
Ingredients.—12 ozs. of flour, 6 ozs. of suet, 1 heaped teaspoonful of baking-powder, ¼ of a teaspoonful of salt, ⅓ pint of cold water.
Method.—Free the suet from skin, shred it into fine flakes, but do not chop it. Add the flour to the suet, and mix both well together in a basin, then add the salt, baking-powder, and as much water as is necessary to mix the whole into a fairly stiff paste. Knead lightly, then roll out, and use for any kind of pie intended to be eaten hot.
Time.—¼ of an hour. Average Cost, 5d. Sufficient for 1 large pie.
1673.—SWEET PASTE FOR TARTLETS. (Fr.—Pâte à Foncer Sucré.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of fine flour, 8 ozs. of castor sugar, 5 ozs. of butter, 3 eggs, the finely-grated rind of lemon.
Method.—Sieve the flour into a basin, make a well in the centre, put in the sugar, butter and eggs, and mix the whole into a stiff paste. Roll out and use as required.
Time.—10 minutes Average Cost, 1s.
1674.—TO GLAZE PASTRY.
Meat pies, patties, sausage-rolls, and similar articles, are usually brushed over with well-beaten egg before, or during the process of baking: when a deeper tone of colour is desired the yolk alone is used. Or, when economy is a point, and the white can be otherwise utilized, a little milk may be added to the yolk of egg when a larger quantity than is afforded by 1 yolk is required. Fruit tarts, puffs, etc., are usually brushed lightly over with cold water, and sprinkled liberally with castor ​sugar before baking. Or, when a thin coating of icing is desired, they are, when nearly baked, brushed over with well-beaten white of egg, and well-dredged with castor sugar.
Tarts, Tartlets, Etc.
1675.—ALMOND CHEESECAKES. (Fr—Tartelettes aux Amandes.)
Ingredients.—Short paste No. 1667, or 1668, 4 ozs. of ground almonds, 4 ozs. of castor sugar, ¾ of an oz. of cornflour, ½ an oz. of butter, 1 whole egg, 1 yolk of egg, raspberry or strawberry jam, nutmeg.
Method.—Beat the eggs, add them gradually to the cornflour, and stir until perfectly smooth. Add the sugar, almonds, butter melted, and a pinch of nutmeg. Line 9 or 10 patty pans with paste, spread about ½ a teaspoonful of jam on the bottom of each one, and fill with the mixture. Bake from 20 to 25 minutes in a moderately hot oven.
Time.—40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, 10d. Sufficient for 9 or 10 tartlets.
Almonds.—Almonds are the fruit of the Amygdalus communis, cultivated throughout the whole of the south of Europe, Syria, Persia, and northern Africa; but England is mostly supplied with those that are grown in Spain and the south of France. There are two varieties, distinguished in commerce by the names of Jordan and Valentia almonds. The former are imported from Malaga, and are longer, narrower, more pointed, and more highly esteemed than the latter, which are imported from Valentia. Bitter almonds are a different variety and are principally obtained from Morocco, and are exported from Mogador.
1676.—APPLE AMBER.
Ingredients.—6 large apples, 3 ozs. of moist sugar, 2 ozs. of butter, 3 eggs, ½ a lemon, paste trimmings, or 4 ozs. of No. 1667, or 1668, ground cinnamon, ground cloves.
Method.—Peel, core and slice the apples, put them into the stewpan with sugar, and 1 tablespoonful of water, simmer gently until tender, then rub through a hair sieve. Return the apple pulp to the stewpan, add the lemon-rind, finely-grated, lemon-juice, and a good pinch each of cloves and cinnamon. Re-heat, then stir in the butter and yolks of eggs, and cook until the mixture thickens. Meanwhile line the edges of the dish with paste, and ornament the extreme edge with small leaves or rounds of the same, arranged to slightly overlap each other. Pour in the apple preparation, and bake in a moderate oven until set. Have ready the whites of eggs whisked to a stiff froth, and sweetened with a little castor sugar, arrange in a rocky form on the top of the pudding, sprinkle liberally with castor sugar, and, if liked, decorate with cherries or candied fruits. Replace in the oven until the meringue hardens and acquires a little colour, and serve either hot or cold.
Time.—About 1¼ hours. Average Cost, 1s., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
​1677.—APPLE CHEESECAKES.
Ingredients.— 1½ lbs. of apples, 3 ozs. of sugar, 1½ oz. of butter, 3 eggs, 1 lemon, paste No. 1668.
Method.— Peel, core and slice the apples, place them in a stewpan with the sugar, and 1 tablespoonful of water, simmer gently until tender, and rub them through a hair sieve. Return the apple-pulp to the stewpan. add the lemon-juice and the rind finely-grated, re-heat, stir in the yolks of 3 eggs and the white of one, and cook until the mixture thickens. Have ready the patty-pans lined with paste and partially baked, fill with the apple preparation, cover lightly with whipped sweetened white of egg, and bake in a moderate oven for about 15 minutes.
Time.—About 1¼ hours. Average Cost, 10d., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 12 cheese-cakes.
The Apple.—The most useful of all the British fruits is the apple, which is a native of Britain and may be found in woods and hedges in the form of the common wild crab, of which all our best apples are varieties produced by culture or particular circumstances. In most temperate climates it is extensively cultivated, and in England, both as regards variety and quantity, the apple is excellent and abundant. Immense supplies are also imported from the United States and from France, Australia and Tasmania. The apples grown in the vicinity of New York are universally admitted to be among the finest specimens of this fruit; but unless selected and packed with great care, they are apt to spoil before reaching England.
1678.—APPLE TART. (Fr.—Tourte aux Pommes.)
Ingredients.—2 lbs. of apples, 2 tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, 4 cloves or a ¼ of a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, short paste (No. 1667, or 1668).
Method.—Peel, core and cut the apples into thick slices. Roll the paste into an oval form a little larger than the top of the pie-dish, invert the dish in the centre of the paste, and cut round, leaving a ¼-inch margin on all sides. Line the edge of the pie dish with the trimmings, put in half the apples, add the sugar, and flavouring ingredient, then the remainder of the fruit. Moisten the paste lining the edge of the dish with water, put on the cover, press the edges together and notch them at intervals of about ⅛ of an inch. Bake in a brisk oven from 40 to 50 minutes, and when the paste has risen and set, brush it over lightly with cold water, and dredge well with castor sugar. This must be done quickly, and the tart immediately replaced in the oven. If the tart is to be eaten cold, directly it leaves the oven the crust should be raised gently with a knife, to allow some of the steam to escape, otherwise it may lose some of its crispness.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average Coat, 6d. to 8d., exclusive of the pastry. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
1679.—APPLE TART CREAMED. (Fr.—Tourte de Pommes à la Créme.)
Ingredients.—Short crust (No. 1667), 2 lbs. of apples, 2 tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, 1 oz. of butter, 1 pint of custard (No. 332).
​Method.—Pare, core and cut the apples into thick slices, put them into a stewpan with the sugar, butter, and 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of water, and cook very gently until tender. Pass the apples through a hair sieve, add more sugar, if necessary, and put the purée into a pie-dish lined with pastry (see Apple Amber, No. 1676).
Bake in a quick oven until the paste has risen and set, then add the prepared custard, and bake more slowly until the pastry is sufficiently cooked and the custard firm. Serve either hot or cold.
Time.—From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 4d. to 1s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
1680.—APPLE TURNOVER.
See Fruit or Jam Turnovers, No. 1708.
1681.—APRICOT BOUCHÉES. (Fr.—Bouchées d'Abricots.)
Ingredients.—Puff paste (No. 1665), 1 tin of preserved apricots, castor sugar, ¼ of a pint of whipped-cream.
Method.—When the paste has had the necessary number of turns, roll it out to rather less than ½ an inch in thickness. With a hot wet cutter stamp out some rounds about 2 inches in diameter, and make a deep, circular indentation with a smaller cutter. Bake in a quick oven, and when cool scoop out the paste within the ring. Meanwhile well drain the apricots from the syrup, put half an apricot, the rounded side down, into each case, and fill the hollow with stiffly-whipped sweetened cream.
Time.—12 minutes to bake. Average Cost, 2d. each.
1682.—APRICOT TART. (Fr.—Tourte d'Abricots.)
Ingredients.—1 tin of apricots, sugar to taste, short paste (No. 1667).
Method.—Place the apricots in a pie-dish, sprinkle with sugar, and half fill the dish with the syrup from the tin. Cover with paste (see Apple Tart, No. 1678), and bake in a quick oven from 30 to 40 minutes. When the paste has risen and set, brush it over lightly with cold water, and dredge well with castor sugar. Return quickly to the oven, and finish baking.
Time.—About 1¼ hours. Average Cost, 1s. to 1s. 2d. Sufficient for 5 to 7 persons.
Apricots.—The apricot is indigenous to the plains of Armenia, but is now cultivated in almost every climate, temperate or tropical. There are several varieties. The skin of this fruit has a perfumed and highly esteemed flavour. A good apricot, when perfectly ripe, is an excellent fruit. It has been somewhat condemned for its laxative qualities, but this has possibly arisen from the fruit having been eaten unripe, or in too great quantity. Delicate persons should not eat the apricot uncooked, without a liberal allowance of powdered sugar. This fruit makes excellent jam and marmalade, and there are several foreign preparations of it, which are considered great luxuries.
​1683.—BAKEWELL TART.
Ingredients.—½ a lb. of short paste (No. 1667, or 1668), raspberry jam, 2 ozs. of ground almonds, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 white of egg, essence of almonds.
Method.—Cream the butter and sugar together until thick and white, stir in the 2 yolks, and 1 white of egg, add the almonds, also a few drops of essence of almonds, and beat well. Line a flat dish with the pastry, place a good layer of jam on the bottom, and spread the mixture lightly on the top of it. Bake in a quick oven for about ½ an hour, and serve either hot or cold.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 1s. 3d. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
1684.—BAKEWELL TART. (Another Method.)
Ingredients.—6 ozs. of short crust (No. 1667, or 1668), 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 1 egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of raspberry jam, almond essence.
Method.—Cream the butter and sugar well together, stir in the egg, add the breadcrumbs and a few drops of almond essence, and mix well. Line a dish with the paste, add a good layer of raspberry jam, and spread the mixture on the top of it. Bake about ½ an hour in a quick oven.
Time.—From 1 to 1¼ hours. Average Cost, 10d. to 1s. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
1685.—BALMORAL TARTLETS. (Fr.—Tartelettes à la Balmoral.)
Ingredients.—1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of castor sugar, ½ an oz. of cake-crumbs, ½ an oz. of glacé cherries, cut into small dice, ½ an oz. of candied peel finely-shredded, ¾ of an oz. of cornflour, or potato flour, 1 egg, short crust (No. 1667).
Method.—Make the paste as directed, and line 12 patty-pans. Cream the butter and sugar until thick and white, stir in the yolk of the egg, add the cake-crumbs, cherries, peel and cornflour. Whip the white of egg stiffly, stir it in lightly, and fill the patty-cases with the preparation. Cross 2 narrow strips of paste on the top of each tartlet, and bake for about 20 minutes in a moderate oven.
Time.—To prepare and bake, from 1 to 1¼ hours. Average Cost, 1s. 2d. Sufficient for 12 small tartlets.
1686.—BARBERRY TARTLETS. (Fr.—Tartelettes d'Epines-vinettes.)
Ingredients.—Short paste (No. 1667, or 1668), 1 lb of barberries, ½ a lb. of moist sugar, or to taste.
​Method.—Remove the stalks, put the fruit and sugar into jar, place the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, or in a slow oven and cook until tender. Line 1 large, or 2 medium-sized tart tins with the paste, fillthem with rice or crusts of bread placed in buttered papers, and bake until crisp in a brisk oven. When cold, fill them with the prepared cold fruit and syrup and serve.
Time.—About 3 hours. Average Cost, 8d. or 10d. Sufficient for 1 large or 2 medium-sized tarts.
Barberries (Berberris Vulgaris).—A fruit of such great acidity that even birds refuse to eat it. In this respect, it nearly approaches the tamarind. When boiled with sugar, it makes a very agreeable preserve or jelly, according to the different modes of preparation. Barberries are also used as a dry sweetmeat, and in sugar-plums or comfits; are pickled with vinegar, and are utilized for various culinary purposes. They are well calculated to allay heat and thirst in persons afflicted with fevers. The berries arranged on bunches of curled parsley make an exceedingly pretty garnish for supper dishes, particularly for white meats, like boiled fowl à la Béchamel, the three colours—scarlet, green and white contrasting well and producing a very good effect.
1687.—BLACK-CURRANT TARTLETS. (Fr.—Tartelettes de Cassis.)
Ingredients.—Short crust (No. 1667. or 1668), 1 lb. of black-currants, 2 tablespoonfuls of moist sugar. ¼ of a pint of cream, castor sugar.
Method.—Cook the black-currants with the sugar, and 2 tablespoonfuls of water, in a jar, on the stove or in a slow oven. Line 12 patty-pans with the paste, fill them with rice placed in buttered papers, and bake until crisp in a brisk oven. When cold, fill them with the prepared cold fruit and syrup, cover with stiffly-whipped, sweetened cream, and serve cold.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 10d., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 12 tartlets.
Currants.—The utility of currants, red, black or white, has long been established in domestic economy. The juice of the red species, if boiled with an equal weight of loaf sugar, forms an agreeable preserve called currant jelly, much employed in sauces, and very valuable in the cure of sore throats and colds. The French mix it with sugar and water, and thus form an agreeable beverage. The juice of currants is a valuable remedy for constipation; and, in febrile complaints, it is useful on account of its readily quenching thirst, and for its cooling effect on the stomach. White and flesh-coloured currants have, with the exception of the fulness of flavour, in every respect the same qualities as the red species. Both white and red currants are pleasant additions to dessert, but the black variety is more generally used for culinary and medicinal purposes, especially in the form of jelly for quinsy. Black currants have a much richer and less acid flavour than red currants, and are better adapted for tarts. The leaves of the black currant make a pleasant kind of tea.
1688.—CHERRY TARTLETS. (Fr.—Tartelettes de Cerises.)
Ingredients.—½ a lb. of short paste (No. 1667), 1 lb. of cooking cherries, 2 tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, 2 large or 3 small eggs, castor sugar.
Method.—Remove the stalks from the cherries, put them into a small stewjar, with the moist sugar, stand the jar in a saucepan, surround it with boiling water, and cook until the cherries are tender. Meanwhile line 10 or 12 deep patty-pans with the paste, fill them with rice, placing a buttered paper between it and the paste, and bake in a quick oven. When the cherries are sufficiently cooked, strain off the syrup into a ​small stewpan, add the yolks of eggs, previously beaten, and stir by the side of the fire until the custard thickens. Fill the patty-cases with cherries, cover with a layer of custard, on the top spread a little stiffly whipped white of egg, and sprinkle with castor sugar. Replace in the oven until the white of egg hardens, and acquires a little colour, then serve hot or cold.
Time.—1¼ to 1½ hours. Average Cost, 1s. to 1s. 3d. Sufficient for 10 or 12 tartlets.
Cherries.—According to Lucullus, the cherry tree was known in Asia in the year of Rome 680. Seventy different species of cherries, wild and cultivated, exist, distinguishable from each other by the difference of their form, size and colour. The French distil from cherries a liqueur named kirsch-wasser (eau de cerises); the Italians prepare from a cherry called marusca the liqueur named marasquin, which is sweeter and more agreeable than the former. The most wholesome cherries have a tender and delicate skin; those with a hard skin should be very carefully masticated. Sweet-meats, syrups, tarts, entremets, etc., of cherries are in universal request.
1689.—CHESTNUT AMBER.
Ingredients.—½ a pint of chestnuts, ½ a pint of milk, 2 oz. of breadcrumbs, 1 oz. of castor sugar, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, 1 lemon, vanilla essence, puff paste.
Method.—Bake or roast the chestnuts for about 20 minutes, and remove the skins. Put them into a stewpan, with just sufficient water to cover the bottom of the pan, simmer gently until tender, and rub through a fine sieve. Simmer the thinly-cut rind of the lemon and the milk for 15 or 20 minutes, and strain it over the breadcrumbs. Cream the butter and sugar together, until thick and smooth, add the yolks of the eggs, the juice of the lemon, a few drops of vanilla essence, and stir in the chestnuts, breadcrumbs and milk. Have the pie-dish ready lined with paste, as directed for Apple Amber, pour in the mixture, and bake in a moderately hot oven from 25 to 30 minutes, or until the mixture is firm and brown, and the paste sufficiently cooked. Whip the whites to a stiff froth, sweeten with a little sugar, pile lightly on the top of the pudding, and dredge well with castor sugar. Return to the oven until the meringue is set and acquire a little colour.
Time.—From 1¼ to 1½ hours. Average Cost, about 1s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1690.—CHOCOLATE TARTLETS. (Fr.—Tartelettes au Chocolat.)
Ingredients.—Short paste (No. 1667, or 1668), 2 ozs. of grated chocolate, 4 ozs. of cake crumbs, 3 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of butter, ½ an oz. of cornflour, 2 eggs, chocolate icing (No. 1733).
Method.—Cream the yolks of the eggs and sugar well together, add the cake-crumbs, chocolate, cornflour, and the butter melted. Whip the whites of eggs stiffly, and stir them in as lightly as possible. Have ready 12 patty-pans lined with short paste, fill them with the mixture, ​and bake in a moderately hot oven from 20 to 25 minutes. When cold cover the surface of each tartlet with chocolate icing, allow it to harden then serve.
Time.—To bake, from 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive of paste and icing. Sufficient for 12 tartlets.
1691.—CHOCOLATE TARTLETS. (Another Method.)
Ingredients..—Short paste (No. 1667), Genoese paste (No. 1656), chocolate icing (No. 1733), grated cocoanut.
Method.—Line some deep tartlet moulds with the paste, fill them with Genoise mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. When cold, ice them over with chocolate icing, and sprinkle with cocoanut. Variety may be introduced by using orange icing (No. 1720), or transparent icing and chopped pistachios.
Time.—Half an hour.
1692.—COFFEE ECLAIRS. (Fr.—Eclairs au Café.)
Ingredients.—½ a pint of milk, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of cornflour, 2 ozs. of Vienna flour, 3 eggs, ½ a teaspoonful of vanilla essence, a pinch of salt, 1 oz. of castor sugar, Moka custard for filling, coffee icing for covering, No. 1735.
Method.—Put the water, butter, sugar and salt into a stewpan, when boiling, stir in the cornflour and Vienna flour (previously mixed), work it with a wooden spoon over the fire, sufficiently long to produce a soft paste which will leave the side and bottom of the pan clean. Draw the stewpan from the fire, add the flavouring essence, and work the eggs in gradually (leaving out 1 white). Beat the paste well for some minutes, then put it in a large forcing or savoy bag with a plain tube, and force out even-sized shapes, similar to finger biscuits, on to a lightly buttered baking-tin, about 1 inch apart from each other. Bake to a nice fawn colour in a moderate oven. When done, split the sides with a sharp knife, and fill each with 1 teaspoonful of Moka custard. Have ready some coffee icing, and dip each éclair into it, so as to cover the surface and sides well and smoothly. Place the éclairs on a wire tray to set, and dish up when required.
1693.—MOKA CUSTARD FOR FILLING ECLAIRS.
Ingredients.—1 gill of milk, 1 oz. of loaf sugar, ½ an oz. of cornflour, ½ an oz. of fresh butter, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 teaspoonful of coffee essence, a few drops of vanilla essence.
A SUPPER BUFFET FOR BALL ROOM OR EVENING PARTY.
​thoroughly, return to the stewpan, and let it boil for a few minutes; add the flavouring essences and the butter, stir in the egg-yolks, continue to stir until the mixture binds, pour it in a basin, and let it cool.
Time.—20 minutes. Average Cost, 1s., exclusive of the icing. Sufficient for 1 dish.
1694.—CREAM TARTLETS. (Fr.—Tartelettes à la Crème.)
Ingredients.—Short paste (No. 1667, or 1668), apricot jam, ⅓ of a pint of cream, castor sugar.
Method.—Line 10 or 12 patty-pans with the paste, fill them with rice, with buttered paper between it and the paste, and bake until crisp in a brisk oven. When cool, about half fill them with jam, pile the stiffly-whipped sweetened cream on the top, and serve cold.
Time.— About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 1½d. each. Sufficient for 10 or 12 tartlets.
1695.—CUSTARD TARTLETS. (Fr.—Crèmes cuite au four.)
Ingredients.—Short paste (No. 1667, or 1668), 4 whole eggs, 2 whites of eggs, 1 pint of milk, sugar.
Method.—Line 12 deep patty-tins with short paste. Beat the 4 eggs, add the milk, and sweeten to taste. Fill the patty-pans with custard, and bake in a moderate oven until set. Have ready the whites of eggs, stifly-whisked and sweetened, pile lightly on the tartlets, and replace them in the oven until the meringue hardens, and acquires a little colour. Serve cold.
Time.—From 25 to 30 minutes, to bake. Average Cost, 9d., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 12 tartlets.
1696.—CUSTARD TARTLETS. (Another Method.) (Fr.—Crèmes cuite.)
Ingredients.—Short paste (No. 1667, or 1668), 4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, sugar, jam.
Method.—Bring the milk nearly to boiling point, add the sugar, and when dissolved pour on to the well-beaten eggs, stirring meanwhile. Return to the stewpan, or if preferred, put the mixture into a jug and stand it in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir until the custard thickens, but it must not boil. Line 12 deep patty-pans with paste, spread a good layer of jam on the bottom of each one, and fill with the custard. Bake in a moderate oven until the custard is set.
Time.—To bake, from 25 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, 9d., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 12 tartlets.
​1697.—DAMSON TART. (Fr.—Tourte aux prunes de damas.)
Ingredients.— Short paste (No. 1667, or 1668), 1½ pints of damsons, 2 heaped tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, or to taste.
Method.—Prepare the crust as directed in Apple Tart (No. 1678). In the centre of the pie-dish place an inverted cup or a ventilating cup and funnel to retain the juice, half fill the dish with fruit, add the sugar, then put in the remainder of the fruit. Cover with paste, brush lightly over with cold water, sprinkle liberally with castor sugar, and bake in a quick oven.
Time.—About 1¼ hours. Average Cost, 10d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Damsons.—Whether for jam, jelly, pie, pudding, water, ice, wine, dried fruit, or preserved, the damson plum or damascene (for it was originally brought from Damascus, whence its name), is invaluable. It combines sugary and acid qualities in happy proportions, when full ripe. The damson is easily cultivated, and, if budded nine inches from the ground on vigorous stocks, it will grow several feet high in the first year, and make fine standards in the year following. Amongst the list of the best sorts of baking plums the damson stands first, not only on account of the abundance of its rich juice, but because it so soon softens. Owing to the roughness of its flavour, it requires a large quantity of sugar.
1698.—ECLAIRS. (Fr.—Éclairs.)
Ingredients.—Choux paste (No. 1650), chocolate or coffee icing (No. 1733, and 1735), cream, custard (No. 1738,) or jam.
Method.—Put the choux paste into a forcing-bag, and press it out on to a buttered baking-sheet in the form of small savoy biscuits. Or, if a bag and pipe are not available, roll it on a floured board to the same shape. Bake from 15 to 20 minutes in a moderate oven, let them cool on a sieve, then make an incision on the side of them and scoop out the soft interior. Fill the cavities with stiffly-whipped sweetened cream, confectioners' custard or jam, and coat them with chocolate or coffee icing.
Time.—Altogether from 1¾ to 2 hours. Average Cost, 2d. each.
1699.—FILBERT TARTLETS. (Fr.—Tartelettes aux Avelines.)
Ingredients.—Paste (No. 1667, or 1668), 3 ozs. of filberts, 1 oz. of ground almonds, 3 ozs. of castor sugar, ½ an oz. of cornflour, 4 yolks of eggs, ½ a gill of cream or milk.
Method.—Blanch and peel the nuts and chop them finely. Mix the cornflour smoothly with the milk, and stir it over the fire until it thickens. Cream the yolks of eggs and sugar together until thick and smooth, add the prepared nuts and almonds, then stir in the cornflour and milk. Put the mixture into 12 patty-pans lined with paste, fix 2 thin strips of paste across each tartlet, brush over with milk, and dredge with castor sugar. Bake in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes.
Time.—About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. or 10d., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 12 tartlets.
​1700.—FLAN OF APPLES. (Fr.—Flan de Pommes.)
Ingredients.—3 or 4 apples, 1 tablespoonful of moist sugar, 2 tablespoonsfuls of sherry, 4 cloves, 2 whites of eggs, castor sugar, ½ a lb. of short crust (No. 1667, or 1668).
Method.—Peel, core, and cut each apple into 8 sections, place them in a stewpan, add the cloves and sherry, cover closely, stand the stewpan in a tin containing boiling water, and cook until tender, but not sufficiently so as to break easily. Meanwhile line a 6-inch diameter flan or paste-ring with paste rolled out to about ¼-inch in thickness, fill it with rice, placed on an interlining of buttered paper, and bake in a quick oven. When done, remove the rice and paper, fill with the apples, arranged in a pyramid, strain the juice (if any) over them, and sprinkle well with sugar. Whip the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, spread it lightly over the apples, dredge well with castor sugar, and bake in a cool oven until lightly browned. Serve either hot or cold.
There are two ways of making a flan without the aid of a ring. The first is by means of a round cake-tin. The tin is placed in the centre of the rolled-out paste, which is cut round, leaving a margin of about 1 inch, to be afterwards raised and moulded to the shape of the tin. Before removing the tin a narrow-folded band of greased paper must be pinned lightly round this raised border. In the second method, the bottom is cut out to the required size, and a narrow strip of paste fastened to the edge of it by means of white of egg. A band of paper must support the border; and in both cases the inside should be filled with rice before baking.
Time.—About 1¼ hours. Average Cost, from 1s. to 1s. 2d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
1701.—FLAN OF PINEAPPLE. (Fr.—Flan d'Ananas.)
Ingredients.—½ a preserved pineapple, castor sugar, 2 eggs, ½ a lb. of short crust (No. 1667, or 1668).
Method.—Prepare and bake the flan as for Flan de Pommes. Cut the pineapple into dice and remove all the specks. Strain the syrup, place a ¼-pint of it in a stewpan with a dessertspoonful of sugar, bring to boiling point, and simmer for 3 or 4 minutes. Let it cool slightly, then add the yolks of the eggs, and cook gently by the side of the fire until they thicken, stirring meanwhile. Now place the pineapple in the prepared flan, cover with the custard, and spread the stiffly-whipped whites of eggs on the top. Bake in a moderately cool oven until the meringue hardens and brown slightly. Serve either hot or cold.
Time.—About 1 hour Average Cost, about 1s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
​1702.—FLAN OF STRAWBERRIES. (Fr.—Flan de Fraises.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of strawberries, castor sugar, 2 whites of eggs, ½ a lb. of short crust (No. 1667, or 1668).
Method.—Make the flan as directed in No. 1700; when about ¾ baked remove the rice, and fill with strawberries, from which the stalks have been removed. Pile the fruit high in the centre, dredge well with castor sugar, and cover with stiffly-whisked white of egg. Cover the surface lightly with castor sugar, replace in the oven, and bake slowly for about 15 minutes. When the meringue is set, cover with paper to prevent it browning too much before the strawberries are sufficiently cooked. Serve either hot or cold.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 1s. 2d. to 1s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Note.—Almost any kind of fruit may be made into a flan; the varieties employed for culinary purposes may be broadly divided into 3 classes, viz., fruit requiring a comparatively large amount of cooking, such as apples, pears, plums; quickly cooked fruits like strawberries, raspberries, etc.; and tinned fruits which simply require re-heating. The 3 preceding recipes illustrate methods applicable in each case.
1703.—FLUTED ROLLS. (Fr.—Rouloux.)
Ingredients.—Puff paste, castor sugar.
Method.—Roll out the puff paste, dredge it well with castor sugar, and fold as usual. Repeat this twice, then roll it out to about ¼ of an inch in thickness, and stamp out some rounds with a fluted 2 inch cutter. Roll them up, brush lightly over with water, dredge with castor sugar, bake in a moderate oven until crisp and lightly browned.
Time.—10 minutes to bake.
1704.—FOLKESTONE CHEESECAKES. (Fr.—Gâteau de Folkestone.)
Ingredients.—1 pint of milk, 4 ozs. of sugar, 3 ozs. of ground rice, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of currants, cleaned and picked, the grated rind of 1 lemon, salt, paste (No. 1667, or 1668).
Method.—Simmer the ground rice in the milk for ½ an hour, then stir in the butter, sugar, lemon-rind, the well-beaten eggs, a good pinch of salt, and stir and cook by the side of the fire until the mixture thickens. Now let it cool slightly, and meanwhile line the patty-pans with paste, and unless the oven has a good bottom heat, half bake them before putting in the mixture (see Cherry Tartlets, No. 1688). When ready, fill them with the cheesecake preparation, sprinkle a few currants on the top of each cake, and bake from 25 to 30 minutes in a brisk oven.
Time.—From 1¼ to 1½ hours. Average Cost, 7d., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 12 large cheesecakes.
​1705.—FRANGIPAN TART. (Fr.—Tourte à la Frangipanne.)
Ingredients.—Short crust, 4 eggs, 1½ ozs. of butter, 1½ ozs. of sugar, ¼ of an oz. of flour, ½ a pint of milk, 1 bay-leaf 2 or 3 fine strips of lemon-rind, nutmeg.
Method.—Mix the flour smoothly with a little milk, simmer the remainder with the bay-leaf, lemon-rind, and a pinch of nutmeg, for about 15 minutes, then strain it on the blended flour and milk, stirring meanwhile. Return to the stewpan, add the butter, sugar, and slightly-beaten eggs, and stir by the side of the fire until the mixture thickens, but do not let it boil. Line a tart-tin with the paste, pour in the preparation when cool, and bake from 25 to 30 minutes in a moderate oven. Serve cold.
Time.—To bake, about ½ an hour. Average Cost, 7d., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 1 large or 2 medium-sized tarts.
Frangipanni Puddings were originally made chiefly of broken bread and a great variety of flavouring substances. This was named after the Marchese Frangipanni, head of a very ancient Roman family whose privilege it was to supply "holy bread" or wafers to St. Peter's Cathedral, hence the name, derived from the Latin words frangere' (to break) and panis (bread). The Marchese Frangipanni was the inventor of the complicated, but very durable, perfume which bears this name.
1706.—FRENCH HONEY (Imitation). (Fr.—Miel Français.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of loaf sugar, 3 ozs. of butter, the yolks of 6 eggs, the whites of 4 eggs, the juice of 4 lemons, and the finely-grated rind of 2 lemons.
Method.—Place the sugar, butter, lemon-rind and lemon-juice in a jug, stand it in a saucepan of boiling water, and as soon as the sugar is dissolved add the beaten eggs, and stir until the mixture thickens. If stored in a cool, dry place, this preparation will keep good for months.
Time.—½ an hour. Average Cost, 1s. 3d.
1707.—FROSTED ALMOND SANDWICHES. (Fr.—Denises aux Amandes.)
Ingredients.—Puff paste (No. 1665), cheese-cake mixture (No. 1704), apricot or raspberry jam, blanched and shredded almonds, 1 white of egg, milk, castor sugar, vanilla sugar.
Method.—Roll the paste out to about a ¼ of an inch in thickness, and cut it into 2 long strips 3 inches wide. Place one strip on a wetted baking-tin, prick lightly with a fork to prevent it blistering, spread first a thin layer of jam, and then a layer of cheese-cake mixture. Cover with the other strip of paste, moisten the edges and pinch then together, brush lightly over with milk, and dredge with castor sugar. Bake in a moderate oven for about 10 minutes, and let the pastry cool a little. Whip the white of egg to a stiff froth, sweeten with 1 tablespoonful of ​vanilla sugar, spread it lightly on the pastry, and sprinkle on the prepared almonds. Divide into strips about 1½ inches wide, replace in the oven, and bake for 10 minutes longer.
Time.—½ hour, after the pastry is made. Average Cost, 1s. 6d. to 1s. 9d. Sufficient for 10 persons.
1708.—FRUIT OR JAM TURNOVERS. (Fr.—Patisserie de Fruit.)
Ingredients.—Short crust or puff paste (No. 1667, or 1665), stewed fruit or jam, castor sugar.
Method.—Roll the paste out thinly, and cut it into rounds about 4 inches in diameter. Place a little fruit or jam in the centre of each round, moisten the edges with water, and fold the paste over on 3 sides in the form of a triangle. Seal the join carefully, turn them over, brush lightly with cold water, and dredge well with castor sugar. Bake in a moderate oven.
Time.—To bake, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, ½d. each.
1709.—GOOSEBERRY TART. (Fr.—Tourte de Grosseilles.)
Ingredients.—1½ pints of gooseberries, ¼ of a lb. of short crust, (No. 1667, or 1668), ¼ of a lb. of moist sugar.
Method.—With a pair of scissors cut off the tops and tails of the gooseberries; put them into a deep pie-dish, pile the fruit high in the centre, and put in the sugar; line the edge of the dish with short crust, put on the cover, and ornament the edges of the tart; bake in a good oven for about ¾ of an hour, and before serving dredge with castor sugar.
Time.—To bake, about ¾ hour. Average Cost, 10d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Gooseberries.—The red and white are the two principal varieties of gooseberries. The red are rather the more acid; but, when covered with white sugar, are more wholesome, from the circumstance that sugar neutralizes their acidity. Red gooseberries make an excellent jelly, which is light and refreshing, but not very nourishing. All sorts of gooseberries are agreeable when stewed, and in this country especially there is no fruit so universally in favour. In Scotland there is scarcely a cottage garden without its gooseberry bushes. Several of the species are cultivated with the greatest care.
1710.—GRANVILLE TARTLETS. (Fr.—Tartelettes à la Granville.)
Ingredients.—Paste (No. 1667, or 1668), 3 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of currants, cleaned and picked, 1 oz. of ground rice, 1 oz. of finely-shredded candied peel, 3 ozs. of cake crumbs, 1 oz. of desiccated cocoanut, 2 whites of eggs, 1 tablespoonful of cream, lemon essence, transparent icing (No. 1737).
Method.—Cream the butter and sugar together until thick and smooth, add the currants, ground rice, peel, cake crumbs, cream, 4 or 5 drops of lemon essence, and lastly, the stiffly-whipped whites of eggs. Line 18 small oval tartlet moulds with paste, fill them with the preparation, ​and bake from 15 to 20 minutes in a moderate oven. When cool, mask the tartlets with icing, and sprinkle them with desiccated cocoanut.
Time.—To bake, from 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 1s., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 18 tartlets.
1711.—LEMON CHEESECAKES. (Fr.—Tartelettes au Citron.)
Ingredients.—Short paste (No. 1667, or 1668), 1 lb. of loaf sugar, ¼ of a lb. of butter, 6 eggs, the grated rind of 2 lemons and the juice of 3, finely-shredded candied peel.
Method.—Put the sugar, butter, lemon-rind and strained lemon-juice into a stewpan, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Beat the yolks of eggs, add them to the contents of the stewpan, and stir and cook slowly until the mixture thickens. Let it remain in a cool dry place until required. Line the patty-pans with paste. ¾ fill them with the preparation, add a few strips of candied peel, and bake for about 20 minutes in a moderately hot oven.
Time.—To bake about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 4d., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 2½ dozen cheese-cakes.
Note.—The above preparation, if closely covered and stored in a cool dry place, will keep good for several weeks.
1712.—LEMON TARTLETS. (Fr.—Tartelettes au Citron.)
Ingredients.—Short paste (No. 1667, or 1668), 4 ozs. of butter, 4 ozs. of castor sugar, 3 yolks of eggs, 1 lemon.
Method.—Cream the butter and sugar well together, beat each yolk of egg in separately, and add the juice of the lemon and the rind finely grated. Let the mixture stand in cool, dry place for at least 24 hours, then bake in patty-pans, previously lined with the short paste.
Time.—To bake, from 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 18 tartlets.
1713.—LEMON TARTLETS. (Fr.—Tartelettes au Citron.) (Another Method.)
Ingredients.—Short paste (No. 1667, or 1668), 4 lemons, 4 oz of loaf sugar, 4 ozs. of blanched finely-shredded almonds.
Method.—Pare the lemons thickly, boil the fruit in 2 or 3 waters until tender, then pound or rub through a fine sieve. Replace in the stewpan, add the sugar, almonds and lemon-juice, and boil until a thick syrup is obtained. Line 10 or 12 patty-pans with paste, fill them with the preparation, and bake for about 20 minutes in a moderately hot oven.
Time.—To bake, from 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive of the paste Sufficient for 10 or 12 tartlets.
​1714.—MAIDS OF HONOUR. (Fr.—Dâmes d'Honneur.)
Ingredients.—Puff paste (No. 1665), 4 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of Jordan almonds, ½ an oz. of fine flour, 2 yolks of eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful of orange-flower water.
Method.—Blanch and dry the almonds, and pound them in a mortar with the sugar until fine. Add the yolks of eggs one at a time, and mix in the flour, cream and orange-flower water. Line 8 or 9 small tartlet moulds with paste, fill them with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven.
Time.—To bake, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 8 or 9 tartlets.
1715.—MERINGUE TARTS.
See Flan of Apples, No. 1700; Flan of Pineapple, No. 1701,; Flan of Strawberries, No. 1702; Apple Amber, No. 1676.
1716.—MINCE PIES. (Fr.—Pâté de Fruits.)
Ingredients.—Puff paste (No. 1665), mince meat (No. 1740, or 1741).
Method.—When the paste has had the necessary number of turns, roll it out to about a ¼ of an inch in thickness, and line some large-sized patty-pans with it (see page 888). Fill with mincemeat, cover with paste, brush over lightly with cold water, and dredge with castor sugar. Bake in a moderately hot oven from 25 to 30 minutes, and serve either hot or cold.
Time.—30 minutes to bake. Average Cost, 1½d. each.
1717.—OPEN TART OF STRAWBERRY OR ANY OTHER KIND OF PRESERVE.
Ingredients.—Trimmings of puff paste, any kind of jam.
Method.—Butter a tart-pan of the usual shape, roll out the paste to the thickness of ⅛ of an inch, and line the pan with it, prick a few holes at the bottom with a fork to prevent the paste rising and blistering, and bake the tart in a brisk oven from 10 to 15 minutes. Let the paste cool a little; then fill it with preserve, place on it a few stars or leaves, which have been previously cut out of paste and baked, and the tart is ready for table. By making the tart in this manner, both the flavour and the colour of the jam are preserved, which would be spoiled, were it baked in the oven on the paste, and less jam is required.
Time.—10 minutes to bake.
The Strawberry.—The well-known and much esteemed fruit of a plant of the genus Fragaria, natural order Rosaceæ, said to derive its name from the resemblance of its runners to straws. The strawberry belongs to temperate and rather cold climates; and no fruit of these latitudes, that ripens without the aid of artificial heat, is at all comparable with it in point of flavour. The strawberry is widely diffused, being found in most parts of the world, and more particularly in Europe, and America.
​1718.—ORANGE TARTLETS. (Fr.—Tartelettes aux Oranges.)
Ingredients.—2 good oranges, 3 ozs. of butter, 3 ozs. of sugar; 3 yolks of eggs, 1 white of egg, ½ a teaspoonful of vanilla paste (No. 1667, or 1668).
Method.—Remove the rinds of the oranges as thinly as possible, and chop them finely. Cream the butter and sugar well together, beat each yolk in separately, add 2 tablespoonfuls of orange-juice, the orange-rind and vanilla essence. Whisk the white of egg stiffly, add it lightly to the rest of the ingredients, and pour the mixture into the tartlet moulds, previously lined with paste. Bake from 15 to 20 minutes in a moderate oven, and when ¾ baked, dredge them well with castor sugar.
Time.—30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost. 8d., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 9 or 10 tartlets.
1719.—ORANGE TARTLETS. (Another Method.)
Ingredients.—The finely-grated rind of 2 oranges, the juice of 1 orange, 3 ozs. of butter, 3 ozs. of castor sugar, 1½ ozs. of cake crumbs, 2 eggs, 1 spoonful of cornflour, paste (No. 1667, or 1668).
Method.—Cream the butter and sugar well together, beat each yolk in separately, add the grated orange-peel, cornflour and orange juice, previously mixed smoothly together, the cakecrumbs, and lastly, the stiffly-whipped whites of eggs. Pour the mixture into 10 or 12 tartlet-tins, previously lined with paste, and bake for about 20 minutes in a moderately hot oven. When cold, mask with the icing prepared as below.
1720.—PARISIAN TARTLETS. (Fr.—Tartelettes à la Parisienne.)
Ingredients.—Short crust (No. 1667, or 1668), 3 ozs. of butter, 3 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of cake crumbs, 1 oz. of cornflour, 1 oz. of ground almonds, 2 small eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, ½ a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon.
Method.—Cream the butter and sugar well together until thick and smooth, add the eggs separately and beat well. Mix the cream and cornflour smoothly together, stir the ingredients into the mixture, add the ground almonds, cake crumbs, cinnamon and lemon-juice, and mix well together. Line 12 tartlet-moulds with paste, fill them with the preparation, and bake in a moderate oven from 15 to 20 minutes. When ¾ baked, dredge them well with castor sugar.
Time.—30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 10d., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 12 tartlets.
​1721.—PASTRY SANDWICHES. (Fr.—Patisserie.)
Ingredients.—Pastry trimmings, jam, castor sugar.
Method.—Knead the trimmings lightly into a smooth round ball, and roll out very thinly, keeping the shape as square as possible. Spread jam evenly over one half, fold the other half over, wet the edges, and press them lightly together. Brush over with water, dredge well with castor sugar, and with the back of a blade of a knife mark the paste across in lines about 1 inch apart Bake for about 20 minutes in a moderate oven, and when cold cut the paste into strips. If preferred, currants, with the addition of a little sugar and shredded candied peel, may be used instead of jam.
Time.—30 minutes.
1722.—CREAM BUNS. (Fr.—Petits Choux à la Crème.)
Ingredients.—Choux paste (No. 1650), ½ a pint of cream, castor sugar.
Method.—Shape the paste as directed in the recipe for Coffee Eclairs, and bake them from 10 to 15 minutes. When cool, make an incision on one side, scoop out the soft interior, and fill them with stiffly-whipped sweetened cream. Dredge with castor sugar, and serve.
Time.—From 1¼ to 1½ hours. Average Cost, 2d. each. Sufficient for 1 dish.
1723.—POLISH TARTLETS. (Fr.—Tartlettes à la Polonaise.)
Ingredients.—Puff paste trimmings, raspberry and apricot jam, chopped pistachios, grated cocoanut.
Method.—Roll the paste out thinly, cut it into 2½-inch squares, moisten each corner, fold them over to meet in the centre, and cover the join with a small round of paste. Bake in a moderately hot oven for about 15 minutes. When cold place a little jam at each corner, and sprinkle cocoanut on the raspberry jam, and a little finely-chopped pistachio nut on the apricot jam.
Time.—To bake, from 10 to 15 minutes.
1724.—PRUNE TARTS. (Fr.—Tourte aux Pruneaux.)
Ingredients.—¾ of a lb. of prunes, 1 tablespoonful of cranberry juice, sugar to taste, paste (No. 1667, or 1668).
Method.—Scald the prunes, remove the stones, and take out the kernels; put the fruit and kernels into the cranberry juice, and add the sugar; simmer for 10 minutes, when cold make the tarts. Any stone fruit can be cooked in the same way.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 8d. to 1s. Sufficient for 2 medium-sized tarts.
​1725.—PUMPKIN PIE.
Ingredients.—To every quart of pumpkin, strained, allow 6 eggs, ¼ of a lb. of butter, ½ a pint of sweet milk, ½ a lb. of white sugar, 1 tablespoonful of French brandy, 1 gill of Madeira or sherry, paste (No. 1667, or 1668).
Method.—Cut the pumpkin into large pieces; peel these, and put them into cold water over a very slow fire; simmer, without boiling, until every piece is tender, then strain through a colander, and afterwards through coarse muslin. To every quart of the pumpkin add the ingredients given above, the eggs previously beaten till thick and light, and the butter and sugar stirred to a cream. When well mixed, bake in a pie-dish lined and covered with paste.
Time.—1½ hours. Average Cost, 2s. per pie. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.
1726.—PUFF PASTE RINGS WITH JAM.
Ingredients.—Puff-paste trimmings, jam, white of egg, castor sugar.
Method.—Roll the paste out to about ¼ a of an inch in thickness, and stamp out an equal number of rounds 2½ and 1¾ inches in diameter. Brush the larger rounds over with white of egg; stamp out the centre of the smaller rounds, thus forming them into rings, one of which must be pressed lightly on the top of each round of paste. Bake in a moderately hot oven, and when cold fill with jam.
Time.—15 minutes to bake. Average Cost, 2d. each.
1727.—RASPBERRY TARTLETS. (Fr.—Tartelettes aux Framboises.)
Ingredients.—Short paste (No. 1667, or 1668), 1 pint of raspberries, ½ a lb. of loaf sugar, ¼ of a pint of water, ½ a glass of brandy (optional), desiccated cocoanut.
Method.—Boil the sugar and water together until reduced to a syrup, add the raspberries, and cook gently for a few minutes. Drain, replace the syrup in the stewpan, boil rapidly until considerably reduced, then let it cool, and add the brandy. Line 10 or 12 patty-pans with paste, fill them with rice, placed in buttered papers, and bake in a moderately hot oven until crisp. When cool, fill them with the prepared fruit, add an equal portion of syrup to each tartlet, sprinkle with cocoanut, and server cold.
Time.—To bake, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 3d. to 1s. 6d., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 10 or 12 tartlets.
​1728.—RED CURRANT AND RASPBERRY TART. (Fr.—Tourte aux Groseilles rouges.)
Ingredients.—1½ pints of red currants, ½ a pint of raspberries, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, short crust (No. 1667, or 1668).
Method.—Strip the currants from the stalks, put half of them into a pie-dish with an inverted cup in the midst, add the sugar and raspberries, then the remainder of the currants, piling them rather high in the centre. Cover with paste (see Apple Tart, brush lightly over with water, dredge well with castor sugar, and bake for about ¾ of an hour in a moderately hot oven.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 1s. 2d., Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Raspberries.—There are two sorts of raspberries, the red and the white. Both the scent and the flavour of this fruit are very refreshing, and the berry itself is exceedingly wholesome and invaluable to people of a nervous or bilious temperament. It is a delicate fruit, but well repays careful cultivation. Growers have succeeded in producing several fine varieties for cooking, jam making, and dessert. In Scotland it is found in large quantities growing wild, and is eagerly sought after in the woods by children. Its juice, which is rich and abundant, is extremely agreeable.
1729.—ST. CLOUD TARTLETS. (Fr.—Tartelettes à la St. Cloud.)
Ingredients.—Short paste (No. 1667), puff-paste or puff-paste trimmings, ½ a lb. of greengage jam, castor sugar, vanilla sugar, ½ a gill of cream, glacé cherries, angelica.
Method.—Line the patty-pans with short paste, brush the edges lightly over with beaten egg or water, and sprinkle with castor sugar. Fill them with jam, and bake in a moderately hot oven from 10 to 15 minutes. Roll the puff-paste out to about ⅛ of an inch or less in thickness, and stamp out some rings fully ½ an inch less in diameter than the tartlets. Brush them over with milk, turn the wet side on to the castor sugar, and place on the baking-sheet sugared side upwards. Bake in a quick oven; when cold, place the rings of paste on the tartlets, and fill the centre with cream, stiffly-whipped and sweetened with vanilla sugar. Place half a glacé cherry in the centre of each, and insert a few strips or leaves of angelica to complete the decoration.
Time.—About 1¼ hours. Average Cost, 1s. 4d. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 8 or 9 tartlets.
1730.—SAINT DENIS TARTLETS. (Fr.—Tartelettes à la Saint Denis.)
Ingredients.—Pastry (No. 1667), 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of ground almonds, 1 level tablespoonful of cornflour, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 white of egg, vanilla essence, raspberry jam.
Method.—Cream the butter and sugar together until thick and smooth, ​beat in the yolks of eggs, add the ground almonds, cornflour, a few drops of vanilla essence, and lastly, the stiffly-whisked white of egg. Line 12 tartlet moulds with paste, spread a small teaspoonful of jam at the bottom of each one, fill them with the preparation, and fix 2 narrow strips of paste across the top. Bake in a moderate oven from 15 to 20 minutes.
Time.—To bake, from 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 12 tartlets.
Icings, Fillings, Etc.
1731.—ALMOND PASTE. (Fr.—Pate d'Amandes.)
Ingredients.—4 ozs. of ground almonds, 6 ozs. of loaf sugar, 1 white of egg, lemon juice.
Method.—Put the sugar, with 1 tablespoonful of water, and a teaspoonful of lemon juice into a stewpan, bring to the boil, skim well, and boil to the "ball degree" (see page 1070, No. 2264). Pour the syrup on to the ground almonds, add about ½ the white of egg, mix well together, and use as required.
Time.—10 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for one small cake.
1732.—CHOCOLATE ICING. (Fr.—Glace au Chocolat.)
Ingredients.—3 ozs. of chocolate, ½ a lb. of icing sugar, ½ a gill of water.
Method.—Break the chocolate into small pieces, put them into a stewpan with the water, and stir by the side of the fire until dissolved. Add the icing sugar, stir until well mixed and smooth, then use as required.
Average Cost.—6d.
1733.—COFFEE BUTTER. (Fr.—Beurre au Moka.)
Ingredients.—¼ of a lb. of fresh butter, ¼ of a lb. of castor sugar, 1 yolk of egg, coffee essence.
Method.—Cream the sugar and yolk of egg for about 10 minutes, add coffee essence to taste, and the softened butter gradually. Work until thoroughly mixed and smooth, let it remain on ice until firm, stir again, then use for decorating, by means of a paper cornet, or bag and forcer.
Average Cost.—6d.
​1734.—COFFEE ICING. (Fr.—Glace au Café.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of icing sugar or fine castor sugar, 1 gill of cold water, 1 dessertspoonful of coffee essence.
Method.—Put the sugar and water into a stewpan, stir by the side of the fire until it reaches boiling point, and simmer for 4 or 5 minutes. Pour the syrup into a basin, add the coffee essence, and stir until the icing becomes less transparent as it cools. If used before it reaches this point it will have a dull appearance.
Average Cost.—6d.
1735.—ORANGE ICING. (Fr.—Glace d'Orange.)
Ingredients.—6 ozs. of icing sugar, the juice of 1 orange.
Method.—Put the sugar and orange-juice into a small stewpan, stir until well-mixed and smooth, and pour an equal portion over the top of each tartlet.
Time.—1½ hours. Average Cost, 1s., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 10 or 12 tartlets.
1736.—ROYAL ICING. (Fr.—Glace Royal.)
Ingredients.—½ a lb. of icing sugar, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 white of egg.
Method.—Put the white of egg into a basin, add the sugar gradually and work well with a wooden spoon. When the preparation presents a smooth, white brilliant appearance add the lemon-juice, and use as required.
Average Cost.—4d.
1737.—TRANSPARENT ICING. (Fr.—Glace transparente.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of loaf sugar, ½ of gill of warm water.
Method.—Put the sugar and water into a sugar boiler or stewpan, let it dissolve, then bring to the boil and simmer for about 5 minutes, or until a thick syrup is formed (230° Fahr. on a saccharometer). Pour into a basin, stir until almost cold and setting, then use as required.
Average Cost.—3d.
1738.—CONFECTIONER'S CUSTARD. (Fr.—Crème Patissiere.)
Ingredients.—4 yolks of eggs, 1½ pints of milk, 4 ozs. of castor sugar, ½ an oz. of potato flour, 3 sheets of French gelatine, flavouring essence.
Method.—Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little milk, boil the remainder, add the sugar and blended cornflour, boil for 2 minutes, then pour over the beaten yolks of eggs, stirring meanwhile. Return to the stewpan and stir by the side of the fire until the mixture thickens, then add the gelatine, previously dissolved in 1 tablespoonful of water, and the flavouring essence, and use as required.
Average Cost.—9.d.
​1739.—FRANGIPAN CREAM. (Fr.—Crème-Frangipanne.)
Ingredients.—½ a lb. of fine sifted flour, ¼ of a lb. of castor sugar, 2 ozs of butter, 4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, flavouring essence.
Method.—put 4 yolks and 2 whites of eggs, the flour, sugar, and a little pinch of salt into a small stewpan, stir and cook by the side of the fire until well mixed, then add the milk gradually. When perfectly smooth, stir in the butter, cook gently for about 10 minutes, then turn into a basin, flavour to taste, and when cool use as required for filling tartlets, etc.
Average Cost.—10d.
1740.—MINCEMEAT.
Ingredients.—1 lb. of finely-chopped suet, 1 lb. of currants washed and picked, 1 lb. of raisins stoned and quartered, 1 lb. of chopped apples,1 lb. of castor sugar, ½ lb. of sultanas, ¼ lb. of shredded mixed candied peel, 2 lemons, ½ a gill of brandy, ½ a saltspoonful each of nutmeg, mace and cinnamon.
Method.—Pare the lemons thinly, simmer the rinds in a little water until perfectly tender, then pound them or rub them through a fine sieve. Mix all the ingredients well together, press into a jar, cover closely, and keep in a cool dry place for at least 1 month before using.
Average Cost.—6d. per lb.
1741.—MINCEMEAT. (Another Method.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of finely-chopped apples, 1 lb. of currants, cleaned and picked, ¾ of a lb. of finely-chopped suet, ¾ of a lb. of raisins, stoned and quartered, ¾ of a lb. of castor sugar, ¼ of a lb. of finely-shredded mixed candied peel, the grated rind and juice of 2 lemons, ½ a teaspoonful of cinnamon, ground cloves, mace and nutmeg, mixed in equal proportions, ¼ of a pint of brandy.
Method.—Mix all these ingredients well together, press them into a jar, cover closely and store in a cool dry place until required. It should be kept for 1 month at least before being used.
Average Cost.—About 6d. per lb.
1742.—MINCEMEAT (Economical.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of chopped apples, ¾ of a lb. of currants, washed and picked, ½ a lb. of raisins, stoned and quartered, ½ a lb of finely-chopped suet, ½ a lb. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of chopped candied peel, the juice and grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg.
Method.—Mix all these ingredients well together and keep in closely covered jars in a cool, dry place until required.
Average Cost.—6d.
​1743.—MINCEMEAT, AMERICAN RECIPE FOR.
Ingredients.—2 lbs. of finely-chopped cooked fresh beef-tongue, 1 lb. of finely-chopped suet, 2 lbs. of sugar, 2 lbs. of currants, washed and dried, 2 lbs. of raisins, stoned and quartered, 1 lb. of shredded candied citron, 3 lbs. of chopped apples, the finely-grated rind of 4 lemons, ¼ of a teaspoonful each of ground allspice, cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of black pepper, ½ pint of brandy, 1¼ pints of sherry, 1 pint of sweet cider.
Method.—Mix all the ingredients, except the apples and cider. Let it remain in covered jars for 3 days, then add the cider and apples, and use.
Average Cost.—About 10d. per lb.
1744.—MINCEMEAT, LEMON.
Ingredients.—2 large lemons, 6 large apples, ½ a lb. of suet, 1 lb. of currants, ½ a lb. of sugar, 2 ozs. of candied lemon-peel, 1 oz. of citron, mixed spice to taste.
Method.—Pare the lemons, squeeze them, and boil the peel until it is tender enough to mash. Add to the mashed lemon-peel the apples, which should be pared, cored and minced, the chopped suet, currants, sugar, sliced peel and spice. Strain the lemon-juice to these ingredients, stir the mixture well, and put it in a jar with a close-fitting lid. Stir occasionally, and in a week or 10 days the mincemeat will be ready for use.
Average Cost.—1s. 7d.
1745.—VANILLA SUGAR. (Fr.—Sucre à la Vanille.)
Ingredients.—2 lb. of castor sugar, 1 oz. of vanilla pod.
Method.—Cut the pod into small pieces, pound with the sugar in a mortar until smooth, then rub through a fine sieve. Unless kept in a perfectly air-tight tin, the sugar will lose much of its flavour.
Average Cost.—2s. 6d.