# Cyclopedia of Painting/House Painting—Old Work

HOUSE PAINTING.
Interior Finish—Old Work. In repainting a surface that has been painted, varnished, enameled or stained a number of times, it is important to know the character of the surface to be finished, the kind of work that can be satisfactorily done over it, also necessary to know how to properly prepare the surface to receive the finish, as well as to know that certain kinds of work cannot be successfully done over numerous coats.
Flat white and enamel cannot be applied over numerous coats of oil paint, as they will turn yellow and are liable to crack. Grained work cannot be successfully done over an enameled surface, as the surface is so hard and brittle that when oil graining colors are used, it is liable to break loose, chip, crack or check. A surface which has been enameled cannot be successfully refinished except in enamel. The only satisfactory way to remove enamel is with paint remover or to burn the surface.
Painting cannot be done over numerous coats of varnish without danger of checking or cracking, therefore the varnish should be removed before the paint is applied. Where numerous coats of oil paint have been applied and are of a spongy character or have not dried solid, the surface should be burned or the paint taken off with a paint remover. If the surface is cracked or alligatored, it should be cleaned to the wood with a burning lamp or paint remover. If the work is badly cracked and will not permit of burning, it should be painted in flat color. Cracks will not show so badly finished in flat as in gloss.
Oil Paint. Where oil paint is to be used over old work, sandpaper the old paint to a smooth surface and apply a coat mixed with half turpentine and half oil. If more than ​one coat is desired, the second coat can be applied of the same paint mixed to a heavier consistency; however, one coat is usually sufficient over old paint. It is not necessary to apply extra coats if the color used is of a similar shade to the old paint. A well covered surface can be made with one coat. Avoid applying more paint than is absolutely necessary to produce a solid finish.
Gloss Finish. If the work is to be refinished in gloss, clean the surface and sandpaper or rub with steel wool to a smooth surface, then apply one coat of enamel or gloss finish as directed for new work, finishing coat.
Flat and Enamel Finish. If the work has received two or three coats of oil paint which have dried solid without signs of cracking or checking, it can be repainted with fair results if first sandpapered smoothly, then covered with a coat of paint mixed flat. When this is hard dry, apply a second coat if necessary; however, if the one coat will produce a satisfactory finish, it is all that should be applied. If an enamel finish is wanted over this same surface, the enamel can be applied over the flat color. The first enamel coat should be reduced with a pint of turpentine to a gallon of enamel. When hard, rub the surface with fine steel wool to cut the gloss and level the surface, then apply a smooth, even coat of enamel, using a full brush and flowing on the enamel. This can be rubbed or left in a gloss finish.
If the work is to be painted or enameled white and the surface has received numerous coats of oil paint and good results are expected, the old paint will have to be removed. Then the surface, if thoroughly cleaned and sandpapered, will be in good condition to receive paint and should be treated in the same manner as new work which has not been sized.
To enamel over a varnished surface, it is very necessary to remove all of the varnish. The ground work for enamel should be built up with a portion of the enamel or a good ​mixing varnish added to each coat. The paint should be mixed flat, with the enamel or varnish added. The first coat should contain from 1 pint to 1+$^1$⁄$_2$ pints of enamel to a gallon of paint. Apply the second coat of the same mixture of a heavier consistency. Each coat should be thoroughly sandpapered or rubbed smooth with steel wool before applying another. The third coat can be applied with a good enamel reduced with a pint of turpentine to a gallon of enamel. If a deeper luster is wanted, apply a heavy coat of enamel of the original consistency. This can be rubbed to a flat finish or left in the gloss. If the enamel used is of good quality and the undercoats of varnish are not of a cheap rosin quality, this work will not check nor crack.
Kitchens and Pantries. Kitchens and pantries, to be repainted, should be thoroughly cleaned. The best way is to wash the woodwork and walls with rainwater and washing compound, using $^1$⁄$_4$ pound of washing powder or soda to three gallons of rainwater. Thoroughly sponge and brush the surface, then rinse with clear water. This will remove smoke or grease more readily than will turpentine or benzine. For the walls of the kitchen or pantry to be repainted, the first coat should be mixed half flat, then apply a full oil coat of a flat color mixed with varnish, in the proportion of 1-3 color and 2-3 mixing varnish. Either of the foregoing will dry with a good gloss and can be washed.
The woodwork should be thoroughly sandpapered, and, if in very bad condition, scraped. If the old paint is thoroughly hard and two coat work is necessary the first coat should be mixed half flat, then a full oil coat applied over this, or flat color and varnish in the proportions directed for wall work.
Shelves in cupboards and pantries should be thoroughly washed, sandpapered and then a coat of flat color applied. The finishing coat should be mixed with varnish and flat color to dry hard and solid so as not to be softened with moderate heat. Very warm cooking utensils are often ​placed in pantries and on shelves, and if the paint is not hard dry this is liable to soften it.
Kitchen and Pantry Floors. Floors should be scrubbed three or four days before paint is applied. If there are any grease spots, wash them with turpentine or benzine. The first coat of paint should be mixed to dry firm and hard in the wood. Reduce lead in oil with 2-3 turpentine and 1-3 good copal or mixing varnish. When hard, sandpaper lightly, dust off and apply a coat of 2-3 mixing varnish and 1-3 flat color. This will dry with a good gloss, firm and hard and make a coating which is not in danger of being scratched or scuffed up.
Graining Ground. If the surface has been previously painted and is in good condition, thoroughly sandpaper and apply a coat of paint mixed fiat and tinted to the proper ground color with a pint of hard-drying varnish added. Should the paint dry too flat for good working or combing of the graining color, an additional amount of varnish can be added, or a small amount of oil. If numerous coats of oil paint have been applied, or if the surface is badly cracked, the paint will have to be burned or removed with paint remover, then proceed as with new work.
Where graining is done over an old varnished surface, it is best to remove the varnish before applying the paint to avoid cracking; however, if it is impossible to do so, the ground work can be mixed to a semi-paste with a good mixing varnish, then reduced to a painting consistency with turpentine. A small amount of oil can be used should the color not work freely, but not to exceed four ounces of oil to the gallon of paint. Should the paint dry too flat for good working or combing of the graining color, an additional amount of varnish can be used in the second coat to produce an eggshell or semi-gloss, whichever is desired.
Staining. If a surface which has been previously painted or varnished is to be stained, it must be handled and built up with the proper shade of ground color according ​to the wood to be imitated in the same manner as a similar surface for graining ground. The stain must be of a heavier consistency than for bare wood. Brush out thin and even. It cannot be wiped off as on new work and the effect depends upon the brushing. If the grain of the wood is to be imitated, the surface must be grained.
Drying. It should be borne in mind that light and air are necessary to the drying of paint. Paint will not harden in tightly closed rooms. This is especially true of kitchens, pantries and work of this character where there are numerous shelves and drawers, and if closed the paint or varnish will remain tacky and not harden through.
Floors which are to be painted should be exposed to a free circulation of air from underneath. If they are over damp basements or cellars, the windows or ventilators of same should be opened to allow of free air circulation from underneath, as dead or damp air will prevent the paint or varnish on floors from hardening.