# Journal of the Straits Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society/Volume 14/British North Borneo

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## BRITISH NORTH BORNEO.

Introduction.
The object of this paper is to give a short and general sketch of the territory under the Government of British North Borneo Company, from personal observations made during a residence of nearly three years in the country, and from the official reports of Messrs. Pyrer, Von Donop, Frank Hatton and Witti.
Area
Embracing an area of some 20,000 square miles, and a coast line of about 500 miles, the territory lies between the 116th and 119th degrees of East longitude, and the 4th and 7th parallels of North latitude.
Geographical Features.
The general geographical features of the country are as follows:—A range of mountains the general direction of which is North-East and South-West—forms a backbone through the heart of the country, varying in height from 4,000, 7,000 and 8,000 feet in the mountains of Melaio, Mentapok and Trodan, respectively, until the altitude of 13,698 feet is attained by the rugged peaks of Kina Balu, which tower above the surrounding country, repelling with precipitous ascent the adventurer who would attain their summits. From this range and descending to the coast on either side, are lesser ranges of ​hills covered for the most part with virgin forest, and interspersed with fertile plains, watered by the numerous rivers which wend their circuitous courses to the sea beyond. The coast, as a rule, is low and flat and is, to a large extent, lined with the handsome casuarina tree, broken by stretches of mangrove, denoting swampy ground or the mouths of rivers, and diversified by low sandstone cliffs, yellow from exposure to the weather, or patches of forest reaching to the water's edge.
At a short distance from the shore on the West coast, a very large area of country is denuded of trees, and lalang, a coarse grass (Andropogon caricosum), has spread over it, except where hero and there the plantations of the natives vary its monotony.
Harbours.
Many indentations occur on the coast, and the country is particularly rich in harbours, the principal being Gaya, Ambong and Usikan on the West coast, Kudat on the North, and Sandakan on the East. The importance of these harbours it needs but a glance at the map to realize, containing as they do, amongst other advantages, natural facilities for defence.
Sandakan.
Sandakan harbour it will be seen, lies but a short distance from the track taken by trading vessels between Australia and China, and is indeed but five hours steaming distance from their course. It is extremely well protected, and contains anchorage for any number of vessels; having an extent of fifteen miles in length, by five miles in breadth.
Kudat and Gaya.
Kudat and Gaya harbours are within a few hours steam of the route, through the Palawan passage, taken by ships trading from the West to China and Japan. The value of these harbours, therefore, as coaling stations, and refuges for our mercantile navy, in the event of a war with a naval power, ​cannot be overrated, and it follows, that it is of the highest importance that they should not be in the hands of any foreign and possibly hostile power.
The value of these harbours, in addition to their strategical importance, is enhanced by the rich country lying at their back. This is especially the case with regard to Sandakan, into which flow some fifteen rivers, taking their courses, for the most part, through a country which is without doubt a field for large sugar and tobacco plantations, and containing a supply of timber which, from its easy access, should be a great source of revenue to the Government.
Rivers.
The principal rivers in the territory are the Kimanis, Papar, Putatan, Abai, and Tampasuk, on the West Coast, Paitan and Sugut on the North, and Sibueo and Kinabatangan on the East. Most of these rivers are navigable for steam launches of light draught, for although, as a rule, deep water is found inside the entrance, all the rivers are more or less barred. The Kinabatangan is navigable for some 200 miles. Rising in the ranges south of Kina Balu, it takes its course to the sea, emerging some twenty miles south of Sandakan harbour, after passing through a very thinly populated country covered for the most part with virgin forest, varied by occasional native plantations, or patches of secondary jungle denoting where former clearings have been. The quantity of floating timber met with, in the rivers, renders careful navigation necessary.
North Borneo as a field for the Planter.
North Borneo as a new field for the crowded-out planters of Ceylon and Sumatra, is not to be surpassed, for in its bills and valleys will be found soil suitable to almost every tropical product. Hapion in the New Ceylon writes as follows, and his remarks are confirmed by experts from personal observations:—"The spurs and slopes of Kina Balu are peculiarly fitted for growing coffee, tea and cinchona, while the rich plains that ​mark the course of the Kinabatangau and other rivers lend themselves to the culture of indigo, tobacco, cotton, rice and the other well-known tropical products. Such villages as the traveller meets with on excursions in the interior, are fed and maintained by agriculture, the successful features of which, belong to the natural fertility of the soil, rather than to the science of the native farmer. . . . . You cross a plain of rice, bananas, cocoa-nut trees and other luxuriant vegetation. You see the native cultivator at work, his rude plough drawn by buffaloes, and flocks of white paddy birds sailing aloft, or a few solitary cranes adding an oriental touch to the picture. You halt on the river bank amidst tropical groves, here and there relieved by neatly kept gardens, fenced down to the water's edge, and containing plentiful supplies of sweet potatoes, cucumbers, maize and kaladi."
Tobacco.
That the country is peculiarly adapted for the growth of tobacco, is demonstrated by the fact of its cultivation by the natives of both coasts, and that in spite of the want of care in its production, an excellent leaf is obtained. A sample of leaf from a newly opened plantation on the East Coast, has been pronounced by experts to be unsurpassed. Such being the case, and considering that the available land in the tobacco producing countries is becoming exhausted, it is reasonable to suppose that this country will, in a short time, take a prominent place as a large producer of tobacco.
Sugar.
Sugar is also cultivated to some extent and in some parts of the country; a primitive mill for crushing is used by the natives. Considering, however, the small profit returned, together with the known risks in cultivation, the substitutes for cane which are being brought into the market, and the comparatively low rate at which labour is obtained in the sugar producing countries, it is doubtful whether this product will he cultivated to any large extent.
Gambier.
Gambier (the inspissated juice of Nauclea gambir, an astringent used in dying and tanning), the cultivation of which has met with such success in the neighbouring state of Sarawak, pepper, tea and coffea arabica, have all been proved suitable, and sago which is indigenous to the country would largely repay for planting in the low lying grounds at the entrances to rivers.
Jungle Products.
Especially is this country rich in natural jungle products, such as gutta percha, india rubber, camphor, canes, and an infinite variety of useful and ornamental woods, including the valuable bilian (iron-wood) and ebony.
Camphor
The camphor of Borneo, (Dryobalanops camphora) is noted for its peculiar medicinal properties, and is highly valued by the Chinese, who will give, according to the variation of the market, from twenty to forty dollars a pound for the best.
Borneo, with its natural advantages in waterways, should export its timber largely to China, and no doubt when labour becomes more abundant, this will be the case.
Firewood.
A market for firewood has been already established in Hongkong, and the supply of mangrove which is unequalled for this purpose, is practically inexhaustible, and can be obtained without any difficulty. The bark of this tree, which has to be removed in its preparation as firewood, has its own special value as producing a reddish dye much used by the Chinese.
Edible Birds' Nests.
Another valuable and increasing product is the edible ​birds'-nest, which is obtained in small quantities on the West coast, and adjacent islands, but is chiefly supplied from the Gomanton caves on the East coast. The following description of these caves is condensed from an account lately published in the Straits Times. The caves are situate on the Kinabatangan river, near the village of Malapi, which is some fifty miles from the month. The chief entrance Simud putih (white entrance) is on the Gomanton hill at an elevation of 500 feet, and is about 30 feet high by 50 feet wide. The ascent to it is very steep, in some parts almost perpendicular, but the nature of the jagged hard lime-stone rocks, affords holding points for one's hands and feet. From this entrance the ascent to the summit of the hill, is another 500 feet, and at the top is a smallish hole which leads into the great Simud putih caves below, going straight down about 850 feet. Down this the natives descend by rattan ladders, fastened to the circumference of the hole, right into the abyss below, in scarch of the nests. At nightfall a remarkable sight is to be seen at the entrance, viz, the return of the swallows (Collocalia esculenta) to their nests, and the departure of the bats. With a whirring sound, multitudes of bats wheel round in spiral columns from the summit of which detachments break off and wheel away rapidly towards the mangrove swamps and the nipa palms. Amongst them the white bats are very conspicuous, and are termed by the natives, the Rajah, his wife and child. Soon after the bats emerge from the caves, the swallows return in countless numbers. Each morning the process is reversed, the swallows going out and the bats returning home. On entering the mouth of the cave as described above, the floor for the first part of the way slopes down at an angle of twenty-five degrees, to an enormous cave with several smaller ones leading out of it. From the side of this cave rises a high dome, from the top of which you can see the opening before-mentioned, some 850 above. The average height of the cave before coming to the dome is 150 feet. The next cave Simud itam (black entrance) is on a level with the river bank. The entrance is by a magnificent porch of 250 feet in height, opening out into a large and lofty chamber, beyond which an open space is reached, from which looking up can be seen the Simud putih.
​From this space is a cave running under the Simud putih series which is filled, halfway to the top with bats' guano, which cannot be less than fifty feet in depth. Its extent is unknown. Samples of the guano have been sent home and were valued at from £8 to £15 per ton. The annual value taken from these caves is $25,000.
Coal.
That coal is present in many parts of the territory, has been proved, and boring for workable deposits, is being actively engaged in. The present supply, which is stored at the principal ports of call, for the use of men-of-war and trading vessels, is obtained from the Moara mines, situate at the mouth of the Brunei River and which have been leased by the Sultan of Brunei to the Labuan firm of Messrs. Cowie Brothers. The quality of the coal has been well reported upon by engineers of Her Majesty's ships and others, and it is used to a large extent by those vessels visiting Borneo and Labuan, as well as by all the local trading steamers. There are five seams now being worked, of 26, 24, 6, 5 and 4 feet in thickness respectively.
Minerals.
From the reports of travellers and others, the mineral wealth of Borneo has been much exaggerated, although the numerous indications are sufficient to have caused them. Gold indeed is found in Dutch Borneo and Sarawak, but in comparatively small quantities. Traces of gold have also been found in North Borneo, and the island of Banguey off the North coast, and samples of auriferous quartz have lately been discovered in the vicinity of Marudu Bay and in rivers flowing into Sandakan Bay. Up to the present, however, the search has been unsuccessful, and this is not to be wondered at, when we consider how everything is hidden by a luxuriant vegetation. which jealously guards the treasures of the earth from the eyes of the explorer. Samples of cinnabar, silver ore, antimony and tin have been found in different parts of the territory. Copper also was being traced by the late Mr. Frank Hatton, the Company's mineralogist, who was confident of its existence ​but his lamented and sad death has temporarily put a stop to the search for it. The same formations in which the silver ore and antimony are found in Sarawak, are also met with in parts of North Borneo, and from specimens which have been brought in by the natives, it is reasonable to suppose that a systematic search would disclose workable deposits.
Mother-o'pearl.
The sea also has treasures which form no small itens of export, such as mother-o'pearl, bêche-de-mer (holothuria,) and tortoise shell. The neighbouring oyster beds in the Sulu sea have lately been attracting the attention of Europeans, with a view to the introduction of proper appliances for the effective working of the beds, which is impossible with the primitive means employed by the natives. There is no doubt that as the European government becomes known and appreciated, the pearl oyster beds, which unquestionably exist round the coasts, will be made to yield their riches. The grasping natures of the innumerable petty chiefs of a former régime, who oppressed the unfortunate pearl fishers, until their occupation—arduous and dangerous as it was—brought them no profit, is the cause assigned by the old men for the abandonment of the pursuit, and the consequent losing sight of the exact locality of the beds. On one occasion, whilst searching for an oyster bed in a locality pointed out by an old man living on one of the small islands off the coast, the divers who accompanied the writer, obtained over a hundredweight of mother-o'pearl, valued at $45, but all the shells were isolated, and it was evident that only the outlying members of the true bed had been found.
Fauna.
Beasts of prey are conspicuous by their absence, the one known exception being a small tree tiger (Felis macrocelis) which is found in the interior. Deer of various kinds, wild pigs, wild cattle (Bos gaurus), and buffalo, are abundant, and ​afford capital sport, whilst on the East coast are found in addition the elephant and rhinoceros (R. sumatranus). Journeying up the rivers, many varieties of the monkey tribe are met with, including a small species of orang-utan. Small black bears (Helarctos euryspilus) are occasionally met with. The tapir and other have been seen on the North coast. A large variety of squirrels abound. Amongst the snakes are found the cobra, python, and leaf snake (Trimeresurus suhannulatus), but the writer has not known a single fatal case of snake-bite during a residence of six years in Borneo.
Crocodiles are numerous, and at times extremely fierce and dangerous. The rivers and coast teem with fish, which form the staple food of a large portion of the inhabitants.
Pigeons of many kinds, snipe, curlew and plover, the Argus and Bulwer pheasants (Argusianus Grayii and Lobiophasis Bulweri;) and several kinds of partridge afford a tempting variety to the sportsman, and the field opened up to the naturalist amongst the numerous birds of North Borneo, is a large and but little known one.
Climate.
The climate is more healthy than might be expected in a country situated so near the Equator. The maximum monthly mean temperature during the year 1883 was 88.9, whilst the lowest for the same period was 75.1. The nights as a rule arc very cool and pleasant, and on the coast the heat during the day is rarely oppressive. The rainfall for 1883, as observed at Kudat, on the North coast, was 120.56 inches, November, December and January being the months during which most rain fell. There is no absolutely dry season, it being rare to aass many days without rain. To Europeans who take reasonable precautions against exposure to malarial influences, the climate is healthy.
Population.
North Borneo is very thinly populated and its scattered inhabitants include many different races.
The West coast is principally peopled by a mixture of Malays, Bajaus and Hanuns, whilst on the North and East coasts Bajaus and Sulus are chiefly met with. The aborigines who reside in the interior are called Dusuns or Ida'an. They are an agricultural race, and generally peaceful. They grow tobacco and cotton, as well as rice, tapioca, yams and indian corn, but only cultivate sufficient for their own immediate use—the usual habit. of most natives of these parts, who fail to realize the importance of providing for the future. They use a plough and harrow, aud in this respect are superior to the other natives of Borneo, although the use of these implements is said to have been introduced by the Chinese who—report tells us—at some remote period thickly populated North Borneo.
Labour.
For purposes of labour, the native cannot be depended upon, being naturally indolent and quite content so long as his own immediate wants are satisfied, and these being simple, he finds no difficulty in supplying them. Chinese at present supply the labour market. Chinese, natives of India, and Arabs are to be found trading in most of the rivers, and the first named are settling in large numbers wherever stations have been opened by the Company, more especially at Sandakan, which now contains some 3,000.
A rough estimate of the population gives the number as 150,000, but this is probably underrated, as it is being rapidly increased by the influx of Chinese. The value of the Chinese in a new country like this, is well known, and as a pioneer, his assistance in making the Government known to the natives of the interior, amongst whom he intrepidly ventures, alone or with but one or two companions, speaking imperfectly if at all their language, will be readily acknowledged by those who have experienced it.
Slavery.
One great benefit which will follow on the establishment of a Government by Europeans, will be the gradual abolition of slavery, which, however mild it may be in this country, is repugnant to civilised humanity. By recent laws promulgated by the Government, the death blow to the various modes of obtaining slaves has been struck, the following regulations effectually accomplishing this object:—(1.) No slaves can be imported from other countries. (2.) Debtors cannot be seized by their creditors, which was formerly one of the principal means of obtaining slaves. (3.) All children born of slave parents after November, 1883, and who would, according to custom, be slaves also, are declared free.
Most of the inhabitants of the coast are Mahomedans, whilst the aborigines put their faith in omens and old superstitions.
Future Prospects.
In conclusion, the experiment in colonization now being tried by the British North Borneo Company, is one of more than local importance, and is being anxiously watched by other nations whose interests in those seas are so great.
With the example of what has been done in the Native States, and Sarawak, and by governing through and with the assistance of the natives themselves—which is indeed the only true way in a country such as this-the young colony should, within a reasonable time, realize the expectations it has aroused, by taking a position corresponding to its natural advantages, and sending forth its riches to the other countries of the world.
E. P. GUERITZ.
[This paper was prepared at the suggestion of Mr. J. S. O'Halloran, Secretary of the Royal Colonial Institute, by whom it was read, on my behalf, at the Montreal Meeting of the British Association for the Advancement of Science, on the 29th August, 1884.—E. P. G.] ​ ​
* ↑ See a paper, with this title, by Sir Walter Medhurst, read at a meeting of the Royal Colonial Institute this year.—Ed.
* ↑ Sir Stamford Raffles described the Malayan bear befoe the Linnean Society in 1820. Crawfurd says that the Bornean and Sumatran bears are the same species.—Ed.
* ↑ This is an error. The Bulwer Pheasant (Labiophasis Bulweri) has not come under the knowledge of the author. The birds referred to are two species of the Fireback Pheasant, the Euplocanus pyrrhonotus and the Euplocanus nobilis.
* ↑ The information in this paper may be fitly supplemented by the following remarks made by Mr. A. Dent when Sir Walter Medhurst's paper on British North Borneo was read before the Royal Colonial Institute on the 12th May, 1885:—"The progress in North Borneo has not been so rapid as was anticipated when we obtained the charter at the end of 1881, but still we can certainly point to steady progress since the company took possession in July, 1882. I find that the fiscal revenue for 1884 as compared with 1353 shows an increase of 60 per cent., land sales a decrease of 39 per cent., leaving a total increase of 28 per cent., which, considering the state of trade and universal depression, must, I think he thought n wholly unsatisfactory. Sir Walter has alluded to several new imports and exports. We hope în 1885 to show an export of gold. Last autumn we sent one of our best officers to explore for gold in the Segama and Kinabatangan rivers, and his report showed gold to exist in alluvial deposits in the 30 or 40 places experimented upon. He could not continue his explorations, owing to the wet season having just set in, but has recently gone back, and we hope soon to lear it confirmed that there are workable deposits of gold in the country. That the Governor and officials of North Borneo believe in it is evidenced by their having taken the trouble to publish regulations and proclaim certain districts as gold fields. Tobacco we look forward to as likely to prove an important enterprise in the country. This, as the paper says, is advancing but slowly, for, owing to many difficulties which occur in a new country, the 1884 crop did not come up to expectations. Considerable preparations have, however, been made for planting during the coming season. In February last one company had 330 coolies working on their plantation, and another company 100 coolies. From all accounts, this tobacco is likely to prove equal to the finest Sumatra. It is used for covering purposes. In sugar little has been done as yet, but large tracts of country have been taken by Australians, Chinese, and others. There seems to be a fair prospect that the depression in this trade will soon pass away, for prices have recently advanced 30 per cent. There is some reason to believe that the German Government are getting tired of the system of bounties, for I believe it is a fact that the sugar manufacturers and growers of beetroot in Germany owe the Government something like ten millions sterling, and the authorities are beginning to wonder whether they will ever see their money again. As regards timber, our export for 1884 amounted to $10,000. Part went to Australia and part of China. There is a great variety of timber in Borneo, some of the hardest woods in the world being found there. The Billian, or iron wood, is plentiful, and valuable for railway sleepers, wharves, &c.; and some other woods are suited for furniture, ship-building, and other purposes. One of the Chinese merchants has 200 men cutting timber for the China market, and the Australians are cutting tim. er freely for the Melbourne market. The report upon the experimental garden at Silam states that Liberian coffee, now rising to its third year, is very fine, and yielding freely. The younger plantations at Sandakan promise well The growth of pepper is all that could be desired. Cocoa, Manila be up, and gambia are, amongst other articles, easily produced in the territory. One of the main questions remaining for consideration is that of labour. Everywhere the question seems to be how, and where, to get labour. Many restrictions are, we know, put upon the importing of Chinese into America and Australia, but those who have lived as long as I have amongst the Chinese will testify to their value if they are treated properly. One advantage with this labour is that you can make contracts, and payment by results, by which means you can get the maximum amount of labour at the minimum of expense. Borneo is but a few days' steam from China and Singapore, where, for a moderate wage, an unlimited amount of this labour can be obtained. Anyone who has studied the map will, I think, recognise that, commercially and strategically, North Borneo occupies a position of great importance. Lying on the high road between China and Australia, we must in time get a large population there. The climate I can speak well of. I have lived there many months at different times of the year. The Government of the country is based, as Sir Walter has told us, on the Indian penal code, and the administration seems to meet the wishes of the natives and the Chinese, and the other settlers. A force of 180 police has hitherto been sufficient to keep order with comparative case. As to the charter, some friends of the enterprise seen to believe that the enormous powers we hold were given by Her Majesty the Queen. It is not so at all. All our powers were derived entirely from the Sultans of Brunei and Sulo, and what the British Government did was simply to incorporate us by Royal charter, thus recognising our powers, which recognition is to us, of course, of vital importance. I hope I have said enough to interest you in our scheme, and to show that North Borneo has a considerable future before it." Ed.