# How and What to Grow in a Kitchen Garden of One Acre (10th Ed)/Planting the Garden

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PLANTING THE GARDEN.
It is common in most gardens to plant blackberries, raspberries, currants, etc., around the fences. This is not only a waste of half the fruit, as it can ​only be borne on one side, but involves much needless labor in keeping the plants trimmed and worked, and unless hood frequently the plot becomes a harbor for weeds. The only advantage in so planting is the protection the fence affords in winter, as it catches the flying leaves and weeds in the fall, and these with the shade afforded by the fence and drifted snow make a natural protection for the roots and canes. It is not the severity of the frost which determines the hardiness of a plant, so much as its ability to with-stand freezing and thawing in rapid succession. For this reason I would have the small fruits planted at the north side of the garden, especially if it be the highest part, and if there is some kind of wind-break or protection, as this will cause the snow to drift and lie longer, making a natural covering, while the slope will drain the surface water quickly away, so that it does not form hard ice around the crowns.
If it were possible, I would prefer to have no fence around the garden, as it makes it much easier to keep clean. A fence is always a nuisance and waste of ground unless absolutely necessary; but if a fence is needed, have one that will not only keep out stock, but also the gardener’s most aggravating enemy, the poultry. A scratching hen seems to have an instinct which tells her as soon as the seed has been planted, and which are the hills containing the choicest varieties.
In plowing the ground in the early spring, I think it is best not to plow more than is needed for the first planting, and to plow the remainder somewhat later, when it has become more dry and friable, as it will ​not then become packed and hard again by the heavy spring rains. For the first planting the ground should be plowed and planted as soon as it can be got in order; the hardier vegetables will even stand a light frost, and while adapting their growth to the weather, will be ready to take advantage of the first warm spring days. I shall speak of the time of planting and sowing in the chapters devoted to the separate treatment of the different vegetables.
The following simple test will be of use to the novice in determining not only when to plow, but also when to cultivate and hoc the ground. Take a portion of the soil in the hand and try to press it into a ball; if it makes a ball and sticks to the hand it is too wet, while if it crushes hard it is too dry. In both cases, if worked in this condition, it will be left in a hard and lumpy state, that will take a long time to bring into good order. To be in good working condition the soil should crumble easily and finely in the hand, and should leave no dirt adhering to the fingers. It will not only give the best results when worked in this state, but it can also be done in half the time. Sometimes we cannot wait until the ground is in the very best order, as in a drought in summer, when it is needed for the second crop. In such a case it must be brought into as fine condition as possible by repeated harrowing and rolling; the latter is an operation too frequently neglected in the ordinary garden; every farmer knows the value of having the soil firmly compacted round the fresh-sown grain, and it is of equal value in every variety of seed sown in the garden. Where there is not ​room for the roller to be used after sowing a row, I always have it pressed in by the broad sole of the gardener’s boot, which nature usually provides shall be of generous size. It is even more important that the soil should be firmly pressed around the roots of newly-set plants, as if this is not done the first heavy rain uses the roots as water courses, and deprived of contact with the soil, the roots rot off and the plants are stunted or die.
Among the first things to be planted in the spring are the small fruits, such as grapes, blackberries, raspberries, currants, strawberries, etc. These should all be in the kitchen garden, and with them the rhubarb and asparagus beds, where they can and will be cultivated as well as the vegetables, the soil kept loose and free from weeds, that they may devote their energies to making strong canes and bearing fine fruit, instead of wasting their strength in a continuous battle for life with grass and weeds, leaving them an easy prey to insects and disease. Those who have never given them this thorough cultivation will be surprised at the large crops and superior quality of the fruit that can be raised under these favorable circumstances. These fruits, when once planted, with the exception of strawberries, last for many years if well manured, trimmed and cultivated. They should all be at one side of the garden, where they will not be in the way of working the garden with the large plow in the spring and fall, but should have their own plowing with the small plow, two to four inches in depth, spring and fall. In the fall plowing the furrows should be turned toward the row, which will ​bank them up slightly and afford additional protection through the winter. In the spring this ridge can be worked down level again with the plow and cultivator, the dirt from around the crowns being drawn away with an ordinary hand hoe.
In planting the rows in the spring, the width of the cultivator and swingle tree must be taken into account. If the ground has been heavily manured the vegetables can be planted as closely as will admit of working, and allowing a good supply of light and air to the roots, excepting melons and other vines, which should have plenty of room in which to spread and sun themselves. Thus, peas, beets, bush beans, etc., can be sowed as closely as two and one-half feet apart, while corn, pole beans, etc., which grow as high as the horse’s sides and the cultivator handles, should have the rows four or four and one-half feet apart, not only to allow of working but to admit of the sunshine and air penetrating to the roots.