# Life with the Esquimaux/Volume 1/Chapter VI

CHAPTER VI.
It was half-past four o'clock, August 21st, when we dropped anchor in this beautiful inlet, which I name after Richard H. Chappell, of New London, Connecticut. We then had a hurried tea, and immediately afterward took a boat and went on shore. Our party consisted of the captain, Mates Gardiner and Lamb, Morgan and Bailey, besides myself. Four Esquimaux—two of them being Ugarng and his wife Kun-ni-u—also accompanied us.
On getting ashore we found that the neck of land dividing the waters just left from those of Frobisher "Straits" was less than a mile in breadth, and so low that, except in one part where a ridge of rocks occurred, it could not be more than a few feet above the sea, and possibly covered at high tides. Portions of this isthmus were sandy, and the rest full of stones, rocks, and several specimens of shale, many of which I eagerly collected. On one plat of sand we observed some foot-tracks, which Ugarng stated to be of reindeer, though such an opinion seemed to me ridiculous from the appearance before us, and so the event proved on the following day, when we encountered some Esquimaux who had been here.
FROBISHER BAY—META INCOGNITA AND GRINNELL GLACIER.
I looked long and earnestly. The land on the opposite side of the "Straits" was clear before me, though at a distance of some forty miles, and it appeared as if a long line of ice or snow topped a considerable portion of it. I hastened from the place whereon I stood, and walked to the beach, where the waters of the so-called Frobisher Strait washed the shores. There, with spy-glass, I again carefully examined the opposite land. The same appearance presented itself. But not till some months afterward, when exploring up the "Straits," did I have positive proof that what I now saw was really an enormous and magnificent glacier, which, when I visited it, I called after the name of Henry Grinnell.
Continuing with my glass to trace the land westerly, it seemed to me that the mountains in that direction united with the land on which I stood, and if so, no "strait" existed. But, as refraction at first was going on, I fancied that I might be deceived. A longer look, however, made me still feel doubtful; and while I stood charmed and ​spellbound by the picture before me, a crowd of strange thoughts filled my soul as I reflected upon my own position there, and remembered the history of those early voyages made by Frobisher and his companions. But I had not much time to ponder. The party was awaiting me, and I had to return.
On my way back I found many other specimens of fossils, a quantity of which I secured; and as I was well-loaded, Kunniu, Ugarng's wife, offered to assist me in carrying them. The hood of her long-tailed coat was widely opened to receive my load. Some fifty pounds' weight of rock specimens, &c. were placed in this convenient receptacle, now answering the purpose of a geologist's saddle-bag; another time, an Esquimaux lady's bonnet or pouch; and, next, a baby-house! One of the limestones, on being broken in two, exposed to view an imbedded mineral the size and shape of a duck-shot. I tried to cut it with my knife, but it was hard as steel; and no effect was made upon it except by scraping off the oxyd, which then left displayed something like bright iron. Unfortunately, I afterward lost this specimen by dropping it in the ship's hold.
We got on board the Rescue about nine o'clock, and had a very pleasant evening in the cabin. The next morning we were again on our way toward the George Henry. As we passed out of the bay, taking another channel, it fell calm, and two boats' crews were ordered ahead to tow. There was a strong tide running, and right in the channel some rocks were seen just below water. It was too late to alter the schooner's course, and, though every effort was made to get clear, yet we should have been left upon those rocks had it not been for the swell of the sea and a good pull at the oars carrying us right over them!
In the afternoon, while still towing, three ki-as, followed by oo-mi-ens (family boats of the natives) filled with women and men, approached. On the present occasion, a highly-intelligent Innuit, Koojesse by name, was boat-steerer of one, while his family and other Esquimaux, with all of their connexions, their tents, cooking utensils, &c. accompanied ​him. As soon as they reached the Rescue, all came on board, Koojesse having with him one of the finest Esquimaux dogs I had seen. More dogs, deerskins, walrus heads and tusks, with abundance of game, such as ducks, &c., were with the party.
Among the number now arrived was Kudlago's eldest daughter, Kok-er-zhun, a truly fair and beautiful young woman, already married to a young man called Shi-mer-ar-chu, otherwise Johnny Bull. She came alongside full of hope and happiness, expecting to hear of, and perhaps to meet, her father. Both herself and Tunukderlien, the wife of Koojesse, delayed approaching until they had made a change of dress, and then, when ready, on deck they came. But, alas! how sad was the blow she had to receive! Seeing Kunniu, Ugarng's wife, whom she knew, the question was put to her, "Nou-ti-ma wong-a a-tá-tá?"—Where is my father? and when Kunniu, in a calm but kindly way, communicated the painful news, it was as if a thunderbolt had riven her heart! That face, a moment before beaming with hope and happiness at the thought of meeting her father, was instantly changed to an expression of deep woe! Tears coursed down her cheeks, and, though the usual calm dignity of Esquimaux nature forbade outcries or noisy lamentation, yet it was evident she most acutely felt the sudden calamity. Her Esquimaux friends, and all who knew her father, sympathized greatly with her, as indeed did we Americans. Every thing in our power was done to alleviate her distress, but it was long before she got over the shock.
In one of the oomiens there were no less than eighteen women and children, an old "patriarch" named Ar-tark-pa-ru, who was crippled in both nether limbs, but blessed with the heaviest beard and mustache yet seen among his people—ten dogs, tents, reindeer skins in immense number, venison, seal-blubber, ducks, walrus heads and tusks, hunting instruments, and, in truth, all the worldly goods of some seven families!
Having made fast the oomiens astern, taken the kias on board, hoisted the old man up by a rope, and allowed all the rest to mount as best they could, we soon had our decks ​crowded with about thirty good-humoured natives of all ages and sizes, and of both sexes.
It was not long, however, before the female portion were put to work in skinning some of the ducks. While doing so I sat beside them, and eagerly watched their operations. They asked me for my knife, and were delighted with the excellent one I lent them. Taking a duck, and drawing the knife once round the outer joint of each wing and the head, they seized the cut part with their teeth, and stripped the fowl entire! The ducks were very fat, and most of it adhered to the skin. This caused these daughters of the North to rejoice with each other on the feast of fat skins that awaited them on completing their work! After all the ducks had been skinned, they were delivered to the cook as fresh provision for the ship's company. It was understood that for preparing these ducks the native women were to have the skins as pay, and this was considered ample. A short time afterward I saw mothers, fathers, sons, and daughters in bed on deck, with their duck-skins in hand, peeling off the "luxurious" fat with their teeth, each now and then giving a peculiar kind of grunt in great satisfaction! "In bed" among the Esquimaux is to repose in puris naturalibus between reindeer skins with the hair on. Being well enveloped in these heat-retaining skins, they proceeded to eat themselves to sleep!
Most of the female portion of those on board had each a really beautiful ornament upon their head, bent like a bow, and extending from points just forward and below the ears up over the top of the head. At the apex it was one inch wide, tapering down to half an inch at the extremities, and it looked and glistened in the bright sun like burnished gold. There were two fastenings to this ornament—a string of variously-coloured beads going under the chin as a bonnet-tie, also one passing down behind the ears at the back of the neck and head. It struck me that this was not only a beautiful ornament to the Esquimaux women, but would also be to ladies at home.
Before Artarkparu came on board he was very anxious to make well secure some drift timber he had found. One piece ​was a ship's deck-plank, probably a part of the English whaling vessel Traveller, wrecked in Bear Sound in 1858. This vessel was about 500 tons, and was lost by getting upon the rocks, when, the tide leaving her high and dry, she rested amidships upon a craggy point, and so broke her back. Her anchors, oil tanks, and 150 fathoms of chain were said to be still lying there.
In the evening I conversed with Kokerzhun about her father's death. She was deeply interested at the many particulars I mentioned, and I was surprised to find her so intelligent and comparatively accomplished. She was, withal, really handsome, but retiring and ladylike. She understood several words of the English language, and was very solicitous of acquiring more knowledge of it. She and her husband were invited for the night into the cabin, where Mate Gardiner gave them up his berth, and, my wrappers answering for coverlets, they were soon asleep. The next morning we arrived at our anchorage and I soon returned to my quarters on board the George Henry.
That evening I landed for a walk, and about half a mile from the beach I found a white man's grave—a mound of sand—at the head of which was an inscription cut upon a raised wood tablet, and reading literally as follows:
died, on the 31st july, 1857, WILLIAM JAMES, aged 28 years, seaman, p. h. d., on board the s. ship innuit, of p. h. d., j. h. sütter, commander.
Dreary was the scene around that solitary grave, the last resting-place of one who was taken away in the prime of life, far from home and all who were dear to him. At the end of each line was rudely engraved a willow branch, a substitute for the cypress, which, in all ages, and in all parts of the civilized world, serves as a memorial of the dead.
Strangely enough, after an hour's walk I came across another grave, but this time that of an Esquimaux. The grave ​was simply a steep ledge of rocks on one side, and on the other long stones set up on end. Within this were the bones and skull of the deceased man. At the head was a pile of rude stone covering the utensils that belonged to him when living. Through the openings I saw a powder-flask, a little tin tea-kettle suspended over a blubber lamp, the knives which he was wont to use, and other trifles, all placed in perfect order. Beside this pile were his seal, walrus, and whaling instruments. The grave was without cover, that he might freely roam over the mountains and freely traverse the seas to that world whither he had gone. The grave was situated on an eminence or bluff overlooking the bay, islands, and scenery far and near. As I stood by this grave the setting sun was crimsoning the whole heavens, picturing to my mind the glory that follows death to those who deserve it.
After-inquiries that I made enabled me to ascertain the name of the deceased, which I found to be one Al-lo-kee, a man celebrated in his day as a great hunter, persevering sealer, and daring whaler.
On Friday, August 24th, Koojesse made me an excellent chart of Nu-gum-mi-uke, Northumberland Inlet, Bear Sound, and lands adjacent—especially of the so-called Frobisher Strait. He signified his willingness to accompany me next season on my intended expedition, but declined to venture this year.
Trade to-day commenced with the natives for whalebone and walrus tusks. Several polar bear skins had already been bartered.
The charts that I possessed of this locality were such as our geographers at that time believed to be correct, and I pointed out to Koojesse the places about which I desired information. I showed him the route I proposed taking when I got up to about longitude 72°, in what I had supposed to be Frobisher Strait, but he and the others stopped me by saying, "Argi! argi!" (No! no!) They then took hold of my hand, moving it around till it connected with "Meta Incognita;" then following south-easterly the north coast of this land till arriving at the channel leading into Hudson's Strait, about longitude 66° W., and, turning round, went thence up Hudson's Strait continuously on to "King's Cape." Of course the names which we place upon our charts are unknown to the Esquimaux, and, consequently, I have endeavoured in this work, where possible, to give both together.
The knowledge that the Esquimaux possess of the geography of their country is truly wonderful. There is not a part of the coast but what they can well delineate, when once it has been visited by them, or information concerning it obtained from others. Their memory is remarkably good, and their intellectual powers, in all relating to their native land, its inhabitants, its coasts, and interior parts, is of a surprisingly high order. In what they related to me concerning Frobisher Strait there could be no doubt, and at once I felt convinced that no passage existed in that direction. However, this I determined to personally examine at the earliest ​opportunity. Meanwhile I tried all in my power to persuade Koojesse to go with me, without delay, to King William's Land, but in vain. Earlier in the season he would have gone; now it was too late. I had, therefore, no alternative but to wait until the following spring.
At midnight there was a fine display of the aurora borealis, or rather aurora australis, for the direction in which the lights appeared was south, not north of us. The barometer stood at 30·05; thermometer, 32°; wind, moderate N.W. and the sky "clear as a bell." I took on deck two delicate compasses to observe if they would be affected by the lights, but they were not in the least. The display was really beautiful; the streams darting up like lightning, and passing the zenith. Some banks of light were so thick that the stars behind were obscured, even those of the first magnitude.
The following day we had a visit from Artarkparu, who, I find, is brother to Allokee, the man whose grave I had noticed. Artarkparu had a single brass button, as an ornament, pendent from his skin coat. The device on it was a bee with expanded wings, and the motto, "Vive ut vivas."
A young man Esquimaux, whom we called Napoleon, from a resemblance in features to Bonaparte, used to visit us daily, dressed in a blue military coat minus the tail (which had been completely torn off), and with a row of big brass buttons running over each shoulder and down in front. The device on these buttons was three cannon on carriages, with a crown for the crest.
Another comical sight was a fat Esquimaux woman who appeared among us dressed in an old calico curtain put on over her seal-skin suit. The number of natives now visiting us was very great, but it was made a rule that all except a privileged few should leave the ship at 8 p.m. During the day much trade was carried on in bartering for skins, walrus tusks, &c. One pair of tusks measured full twenty-six inches in length. The skull of the walrus is very firm and thick. No rifle-ball would have the least effect on it. I have specimens that will show this.
​Decidedly the Esquimaux are a happy people. As they crowded our decks, I one day noticed about a dozen women seated and busily engaged at their work. Two were mending one of the boat's sails. Some were chewing ook-gook (large seal) skins for soles of kum-ings (native boots), others sewing; while one was tending a cross baby. This little fellow, by-the-bye, was generally as good-humoured as the rest, but a piece of raw seal-blubber had disordered him, and hence his troublesome manner. It is rare to find an Esquimaux child but what is very quiet, and only on extraordinary occasions will they raise any cries. One Esquimaux lady, whose husband was as dark as half the negroes of the States, had a very pretty semi-white baby, looking true American all over!
On the 29th of August I thought it advisable to try my expedition boat, with a view to preparing her for the trip to King William's Land. Accordingly, she was brought in from where she was anchored near the ship, and Captain B——, myself, and Smith entered her for a sail. She was found to answer admirably, and proved herself of high merit in model and capabilities. Later in the day I again went away in her with Smith and two men. We pushed outside into the bay. A fresh easterly breeze was blowing, and this gave the boat a good test. Two of the ship's boats were also out under sail, but we passed them at such a rapid rate that it surprised every one. Truly glad was I to find my boat so good, and little did I then imagine she was so soon to be lost.
On the 30th of August I went in an Esquimaux boat, with some of the natives, to convey across the bay, Annawa, his wife, their infant, and a son, besides the widow of old Allokee, toward their home, which was at the head of an inlet opening into Frobisher Strait. Koojesse was of the party, which was comprised of fifteen persons.
We left the ship at 9 a.m. and when about two-thirds of the way we landed in a bight of a large island. Here I saw an old Esquimaux settlement, and I should think there must have been no less than fifty huts formerly erected there within a space of 500 feet of where I stood. The Esquimaux ​do not make their winter habitations now as in the years when the huts I allude to were built, the remains of which were before me. During the last few years Esquimaux live almost entirely in igloos—"snow-houses"—through the winter season. Formerly they built up an earth embankment, or a wall of stone about five feet high, and over this laid skeleton bones of the whale on spars of drift-wood, then on top of that placed skins of the seal or walrus. Many of the ancient embankments where we landed had the largest of whale skeleton bones placed "cob-house" style, and so incorporated with the earth as to keep the whole firmly and enduringly together. The entrances were serpentine tunnels under ground, with side walls, and roofed with slabs of stone. To pass through them one is obliged to go on "all-fours."
I noticed here a dog-sledge, such as the Esquimaux use in their winter excursions. It was ten feet in length, the runners of one and a half inch plank, and shod with the jaw-bone of the whale. The width was thirty inches, and the cross-bars fastened by strings of whalebone.
Allokee's widow had wintered here, and she at once bent her steps to the spot where she had formerly halted, and took from the ground a large pewter plate that had been left there. I asked her where she had obtained the plate, and her reply was "English"—thus probably obtained from one of the whalers. The use she made of this piece of ware was as a receptacle for needles, knives, beads, reindeer sinew for sewing, &c.
After staying here a short time we again started, and arrived at our destination about one o'clock. There the Esquimaux family left us, intending to foot it for about two days over mountains, through valleys, and across rivers before arriving at their home. But not only had they to walk that distance, they had to carry a heavy pack on their shoulders; and I was appalled when I saw the load each one took, especially on such a journey, without the least particle of food with them.
Our return was made without difficulty, and I got on board much pleased with the excursion.
On the 3d of September we were visited by an old ​gray-haired Esquimaux woman called "Pe-ta-to." In talking with her she declared that her children had numbered twenty-five, but all were dead except two. She explained this by throwing out both hands, fingers and thumbs widely spread, twice, and one hand thrice, thus making twenty-five. At the time I could not help doubting her, but she was afterward confirmed by other evidence.
Of this kind old woman I shall have more to say farther on, but at the time of her first visit she greatly interested me by her intelligence and excellent memory. Kunniu, Ugarng's third wife, also proved herself far more gifted than I should have supposed. Her husband wished me to have her as my own, and then she could go with me to King's Cape, where she was born; and she herself frequently explained that I could not go the way I wanted by boat, owing to land all around the Frobisher waters; but, as I was unable to start that season, I had to decline the offer.
Some of the amusing tricks played by these Esquimaux women are especially deserving notice. The variety of games performed by a string tied at the ends, similar to a "cat's cradle," &c. completely throws into the shade our adepts at home. I never before witnessed such a number of intricate ways in which a simple string could be used. One arrangement represented a deer; another a whale; a third the walrus; a fourth the seal; and so on without end.
This Kunniu was a first-rate woman in all relating to work, whether in boat or on shore. She was an excellent pilot, and could pull an oar with any of our men. One day a whale was captured by the George Henry's crew at the lower part of the bay, and it was necessary for all aid to be rendered in towing the monster alongside our ship. The natives gave every assistance, and I also went with a boat, rowed by Kunniu and three others, to help. But I found they were doing well without us, and accordingly returned. On our way back a strong north-wester was blowing, and it was becoming very difficult to cross the channel. A heavy sea prevailed, and the tide was strong, causing a commotion in the waters anything ​but pleasant. In the boat was that Esquimaux woman I have mentioned as possessing the semi-white child, and never did mother more dote upon a babe than she upon this. Her care and solicitude for its preservation were truly affecting. It lay in the bow of the boat as she pulled and pulled, seemingly with the strength of six men, and every now and then she would look at it with a tender glance, while renewed force was placed upon her oar. Mother? Yes, she was a true mother; and Kunniu evidently must have been the same, for she pulled like a giantess. How they watched to see if we progressed! How they turned their eyes to the sleeping babe, as a wave would occasionally mount up and top its white crest clear over our heads!
At length we were able to get the boat under the lee of an island, and so make more headway in smoother water; and finally, after some very severe labour, we got on board.
As for the whale, during the afternoon it was brought alongside, and a most interesting sight it was to see the seven boats towing this "king of fishes" toward the ship. I was reminded by it of the way in which old Rome celebrated her "triumphs" over great kings and kingdoms. We of the white race were proud of our victory over such a monster of the deep, and they of the darker skin were rejoiced at having aided in the capture of what would very soon give them an immense quantity of "black skin" and "krang" for food.
The skin of the Mysticetus (Greenland whale) is a great treat to the Esquimaux, who eat it raw; and even before the whale was brought to the ship, some of the skin, about twenty square feet, had, by permission, been consumed by hungry natives. The "black skin" is three-fourths of an inch thick, and looks like India-rubber. It is good eating in its raw state even for a white man, as I know from experience; but when boiled and soused in vinegar it is most excellent.
I afterward saw the natives cutting up the krang (meat) of the whale into such huge slices as their wives could carry; ​and as they worked, so did they keep eating. Boat-load after boat-load of this did they send over to the village, where several deposits were made upon islands in the vicinity. All day long were they eating; and, thought I, "What monstrous stomachs must these Esquimaux have!" Yet I do not think, on the whole, they eat more than white men. But the quantity taken in one day—enough to last for several days—is what astonishes me! They are, in truth, a peculiar people. "God hath made of one blood all nations of men to dwell on the whole face of the earth, and hath determined the times before appointed, and the bounds of their habitations." Take the Esquimaux away from the arctic regions—from the shores of the northern seas, and they would soon cease from the face of the earth. The bounds of their habitations are fixed by the Eternal, and no one can change them. Thus these people live.
My opinion is, that the Esquimaux practice of eating their food raw is a good one—at least for the better preservation of their health. To one educated otherwise, as we whites are, the Esquimaux custom of feasting on uncooked meats is highly repulsive; but eating meats raw or cooked is entirely a matter of education. "As the twig is bent, the tree's inclined," is an old saw as applicable to the common mind of a people in regard to the food they eat as to any thing else. When I saw the natives actually feasting on the raw flesh of the whale, I thought to myself, "Why cannot I do the same?" and the response to my question came rushing through my brain, independent of prejudice, "Because of my education—because of the customs of my people from time immemorial."
As I stood upon the rocky shore observing the busy natives at work carving the monster before me, my eye caught a group around one of the vertebræ, from which they were slicing and eating thin pieces of ligament that looked white and delicious as the breast of a Thanksgiving turkey! At once I made up my mind to join in partaking of the inviting (?) viands actually smoking in my sight. Taking from the hands of Ugarng his seal-knife, I peeled off a delicate slice of this spinal ligament, closed my eyes, and cried out "Turkey!" But it would not ​go down so easy. Not because the stomach had posted up its sentinel to say "no whale can come down here!" but because it was tougher than any bull beef of Christendom! For half an hour I tried to masticate it, and then found it was even tougher than when I began. At length I discovered I had been making a mistake in the way to eat it. The Esquimaux custom is to get as vast a piece into their distended mouths as they can cram, and then, boa constrictor-like, first lubricate it over, and so swallow it quite whole!
"When you are in Rome, do as the Romans do." Therefore I tried the Esquimaux plan and succeeded, but that one trial was sufficient at the time.
A day or two afterward I again went on shore to where a portion of the whale's carcass remained.
The natives were so careful of the prize that numerous piles of stones, covering deposits of krang and blubber, were seen on the islands around. This would seem to bespeak a provident instead of an improvident trait in their character; but I am inclined to think the former is more the exception than the rule.
One old woman kindly came to me and offered a generous slice of the "whale-gum" she was feasting on. Reaching out my hand, with one stroke of her "ood-loo" (a woman's knife—an instrument like a mincing-knife) she severed the white, fibrous strip quick as thought. It cut as old cheese. Its taste was like unripe chestnuts, and its appearance like cocoa-nut meat. But I cannot say this experiment left me a very great admirer of whale's gum, though, if the struggle was for life, and its preservation depended on the act, I would undoubtedly eat whale's gum until I got something better to my liking.
On September 5th, while taking a walk on Look-out Island, half a mile south of the ship, I discovered a large piece of what I supposed to be iron mineral, weighing 19 pounds, and "in shape and appearance resembling a round loaf of burned bread." Circumstances afterward furnished me with many interesting particulars of this piece of iron, and ultimately I ascertained it to be an undoubted relic of Frobisher's Expedition.
* ↑ "Meta Incognita" embraced both sides of "Frobisher Straits," and, in fact, was meant to include the whole of his discoveries.
* ↑ A week later, as will be seen, six intelligent Esquimaux positively assured me that this was a bay, and not a "strait."
* ↑ The blood of this whale, a short time after its death, was rising 100° Fahrenheit. Forty-eight hours after, its krang was still quite warm.