# Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile/Volume 4/Book 8/Chapter 13

CHAP. XIII.
Kind Reception at Assouan—Arrival at Cairo—Transactions with the Bey there—Land at Marfeilles
WITHOUT congratulating one another on their escape and safe arrival, as they had the ight before at Abou Seielat, my companions with one accord ran to the Nile to drink; though they had already seen, in the course of the journey two or three tragical instances, the consequences of intemperance in drinking water. I sat myself down under the shade of the palm-trees, to recollect myself. It was very hot, and I fell into a profound sleep. But Hagi Ismael, who was neither sleepy nor thirsty, but exceedingly hungry, had gone into the town in search of somebody that would give him food. He was not gone far before his green turban and ragged appearance struck some brethren janizaries, who met one of whom asked him the reason of his being there, and whence he came? Ismael, in a violent passion, and broken Arabic, said, that he was a ​janizary of Cairo, was last come from hell, where there was not one devil, but thousands, from a country of Kafrs that called themselves Mussulmen; that he had walked through a desert where the earth was on fire and the wind was flame, and in fear of dying every day with thirst and hunger.
The soldier who heard him talk in this disjointed, raving manner, desired him to go with him to the Aga. This was the very thing that Ismael wanted. He only desired time to acquaint his companions. "Have you companions, says the soldier, from such a country?"—"Companions! says ssmael; what the devil! do you imagine I came this journey alone?"—"If the journey, says the man, is such as you describe it, I do not think many would go with you; well, go along with my companions, and I will seek yours, but how shall I find them?"—"Go, says Ismael, to the palm-trees, and when you find the tallest man you ever saw in your life, more ragged and dirty than I am, call him Yagoube, and desire him to come along with you to the Aga."
The soldier accordingly found me still sitting at the root of the palm-tree. The servants, who had now satisfied their thirst, and were uncertain what was next to be done, were sitting together at some distance from me. They began to feel their own weariness, and were inclined to leave me to a little repose, which they hoped might enable me to overcome mine. For my own part, a dullness and insensibility, an universal relaxation of spirits which I cannot describe, a kind of stupor, or palsy of the mind, had overtaken me, almost to a deprivation of understanding. I ​found in myself a kind of stupidity, and want of power to reflect upon what had passed. I seemed to be, as if awakened from a dream when the senses are yet half asleep, and we only begin to doubt whether what has before passed in thoughts is real or not. The dangers that I was just now delivered from made no impression upon my mind, and what more and more convinces me I was for a time not in my perfect senses, is, that I found in myself a hard-heartedness, without the least inclination to be thankful for that signal deliverance which I had just now experienced.
From this stupor I was awakened by the arrival of the soldier, who cried out to us at some distance, "You must come to the Aga to the castle, all of you, as fast as you can, the Turk is gone before you." "It will not be very fast, if we even should do that, said I; the Turk has ridden two days on a camel, and I have walked on foot, and do not know at present if I can walk at all." I endeavoured, at the same time, to rise and stand upright, which I did not succeed in, after several attempts, without great pain and difficulty. I observed the soldier was in a prodigious astonishment at my appearance, habit, and above all, at my distress. "We shall get people in town, says he, to assist you, and if you cannot walk, the Aga will send you a mule."
The Turk and the Greeks were cloathed much in the same manner; Ismael and Michael had in their hands two monstrous blunderbusses. The whole town crowded after us while we walked to the castle, and could not satiate themselves with admiring a company of such an extraordinary appearance. The Aga was struck dumb upon our entering ​entering the room, and told me afterwards, that he thought me a full foot taller than any man he had ever seen in his life. I saw he was embarrassed whether he should desire me to sit down or not, so that I saved him the deliberation, by saying, immediately after saluting him, "Sir, you will excuse me, I must sit." He bowed, and made a sign, complacently asking me, "Are you a Turk? Are you a Mussulman?" "I am not a Turk, said I, nor am I a Mussulman; I am an Englishman, and bearer of the grand signior's firman to all his subjects, and of letters from the regency of Cairo, and from the Porte of Janizaries, to you." "Caz Dangli, says Ismael, they are the same as Turks, they came first from Anatolia, I have been at the place." Upon my mentioning the grand signior, the Aga got upon his feet, and, without heeding Ismael's speech, said, very politely, "Do you choose to have your servants sit?" "In such a disastrous journey as I have made, Sir, said I, our servants must be our companions; besides, they have a strong excuse for sitting, neither they nor I have a foot to stand upon."
Aga. "Where are those letters and firman?" Ya. "Where they may be now I know not, we left them at Saffieha with all the rest of our baggage; our camels died, our provisions and water were exhausted, we therefore left every thing behind us, and made this one effort to save our lives. It is the first favour I am to ask of you, when I shall have rested myself two days, to allow me to get fresh camels, to go in search of my letters and baggage." Aga. "God forbid I should ever suffer you to do so mad an action. You are come hither by a thousand miracles, and after this, will you tempt God and go back? we shall take it for granted what those papers contain. You will have no need of a[606] firman between this and Cairo." Ya. "We shall leave it upon that ​6o6 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
firman between this and Cairo." Ta. " We fliall leave it upon that footing for the prefent, allow me only to fay, I am a fcrvant of the king of England, travelling, by his order, and for my own and my countrymen's information ; that I had rather rifk my life twenty times, than lofe the papers I have left in the defert." Jga. " Go in peace, and eat and fleep. Carry them, fays he, fpeaking to his attendants, to the houfe of the Schourbatchie." Thus ended our firft interview with the Aga, who put us in poflelfion of a very good houfe, and i^ happened to be the very man to whom I was recommended by my correfpondents at Cairo when I was firft here, who had abfolutely forgotten, but foon remembered me, as did many others, but my old friend the Aga had been changed, ^nd was then at Cairo.
We were not long arrived before we received from the Aga about fifty loaves of fine wheat bread, and feveral large diflies of dreft meat. But the fmell of thefe laft no fooner reached me than I fainted upon the floor. I made feveral trials afterwards, with no better fuccefs, for the firft two days, nor could I reconcile myfelf to any fort of food but toafted bread and coflTee. My fervants had none of thefe qualms, for they partook largely and greedily of the Aga's bounty,
I HAD kept the houfe five or fix days after my arrival, during which I correfponded with the Aga only by meftages, and fiom my fervant who had pafled between us he had learned the whole of our adventures. I then went to the caftle for an audience, and intreated the Aga that he would
bring ​bring my baggage from Saffieha. He gave a start at the first request, and would not by any means hear of that proposal; he called it tempting God, and assured me I should be cut off by the very men that had murdered Mahomet Aga; that, having seen the cases and things which I had thrown away at Umarack, they would follow my tract on to Saffieha, would have taken every thing that I had left, and would be now pursuing me up to the gates of Assouan. All this was extremely probable, but it was not to such reasoning that I could be a convert. I had insinuated that the well-fare of mankind was concerned in the recovery of those papers; that there was among them recipes, which, if they did not totally prevent the plague, and the small-pox, would at least greatly lessen their violence and duration. This, and perhaps a more forcible insinuation, that he should not be without a recompence for any trouble that he gave himself on my account, brought him at last to consent to my request, and we arranged our expedition accordingly.
Our first step was to send for Idris and the Arab from Daroo, for neither of them would enter the town with us, for fear some story should be trumped up against them regarding Mahomet Towash's murder, which would not have failed to have been the case had not we been with them; but upon the Aga sending a man of confidence for them, they both came without delay, and were lodged in my house, under my protection.
The night following, everything being ready, we set out after it was dark from the castle, all upon dromedaries. The gates of the town were open for us, and were immediately shut upon our passing through them; the Aga fear ​6o8 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
ing his own people as much as the Bifhareen ; and faying always, by way of proverb, " Every body is an enemy in the defert." The Aga had fent four fervants belonging to his ftables to accompany us ; adive, lively, and good-hu- moured fellows. Our people too, were all recruited. If- mael, and blind Georgis, were left to take care of the houfe in my abfence. About twelve o'clock we got into a valley, and hid ourfelves in the lowed part of it, under a bank, for the night was exceeding cold ; but we had fpirits with us, which we drank with moderation. We there refreflied our beafts about half an hour, and again ftopt in a valley among trees. I was afraid that we had palTed our baggage in the dark, as none of us were perfectly fure of the place ; but as foon as light came, we recovered our traft as frefli and entire as when we made it. After having gone about half an hour in our former footfleps, we had the unfpeak- able fatisfaflion to find our quadrant and whole baggage ; and by them the bodies of our llaughtered camels, a fmall part of one of them having been torn by the haddaya, or kite.
It was agreed we fliould not ftay here, but load and de- part immediately ; this was done in an inftant ; five camels r eafily carried the loads, with a man upon them befides ; and there were three more camels, upon which we rode by turns. We made a brifk retreat from Saffieha to Syene, which is about forty miles. At a little pall four in the af- ternoon we entered the town again, without any accident whatever, or without having feen one man in our jour- ney.
Here ​Here then we were to close our travels through the desert, by discharging the debts contracted in it. We had now got our credit and letters, which furnished us with money. I began by recompensing Idris Welled Hamran, the Hybeer, for his faithful services. The next thing was to keep our faith with our prisoner. I had made Idris chuse him a good camel, cloathed him anew, and gave him dresses for his two wives, with a load of dora. I then dispatched him with the Aga's protection, wondering what men we were, who, without compulsion or subterfuge, kept our words so exactly. Though rich beyond his hopes, and so very lately our enemy, the poor fellow, with tears in his eyes, declared, if I would permit him, he would only go back and deliver up what I had given him to his family, and return to me at Syene, and follow me as my servant wherever I should go.
Although we had wherewithal to have bought proper dresses, I thought it better to do this when we should come to Cairo. We got each of us a coarse barracan, for cleanliness only, and a pair of trowsers. I surnished Ismael with a green turban, to give us some weight with the vulgar during our voyage down the Nile. I then went to my friend the Aga, to concert the measures that remained necessary for leaving Assouan and beginning our journey. He testified the greatest joy at seeing us again. He had been informed of our whole expedition by his servants the night before, and praised us, in the presence of his attendants, for our alacrity, steadiness, and courage under the great fatigues of travelling. Ismael had told him of the trees and plants which I painted, and he expressed great curiosity to see them when I should find it convenient. From the ​known disposition of those people, that what they desire must be granted instantly, I asked him whether he was at leisure or not to see them? He said, "By all means; it was a good time." I then sent Michael my servant for a book of trees, and one of fishes.
In the interim arrived one of their priests, or an Imam, who are esteemed the most learned of their clergy. Ill-humour and ill-breeding is the characteristic of violent people of all religions; a Christian fanatic is not one bit more charitable towards those that differ from him than a Turkish saint; the greatest difference between them is the turban. Though I was the only reason of his coming there at that time, he passed me with the most contemptible indifference, his eyes half shut and lifted up to heaven, full of that exalted pride by which his great master fell from happiness. "I wish to know, (says he to the Aga, regardless of me) if that Kafr saw any thing of Mahomet Towash in the desert." The Aga asked me, I saw, with some degree of shame, and I answered him:—"I saw Mahomet Towash alive at Chendi, richly cloathed as if he had been at Mecca. He had twelve or fourteen men armed with firelocks, and about fourscore Tucorory, each with a lance in his hand, to whom he was to give food and water in crossing the desert. There were three Hybeers, all Bishareen, who had come from Suakem with the caravan, and were carrying back senna to the neighbourhood of Syene. I offered to join company with them; and though one Hybeer was enough for him, yet, to distress me as being a Christian, he took the whole three along with him. In vain Sittina, Wed Ageeb's sister, and Wed el Faal's mother, desired him to leave one of the Bisha​THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 6ii
reeiiHybeers for me, or rather to join our companies to- gether, for theBifhareen were not to be truiled. Contrary to the denre of the chief of the Arabs, he took away the three Hybeers, to difappoint me ; he found them three mur- derers, and left me the only honeft man whom he did not know. God punilhed the prefumption and pride of which h,e was full, jull as this MouUah, who laft came in, and fits before you, appears to be."
The Aga then ailced me, if I faw him afterwards ? " You know, I fuppofe, the ftory. One of the three Hybeers went to Abou Bertran, a principal Shekh of the Bifhareen, and prepared a party to meet them on the road at the next fta- tion, while the other two Hybeers, their guides, took care to deceive him by lies, and carried him dirccTily upon the road where the plot was laid. About twenty men on camels, armed with lances, and as many young men on foot, with fwords, came to meet him, and thofe upon camels made their beafts kneel down at fome diftance from him, as out of refpe^t coming to kifs his hands, as of a holy perfon be- longing to the Caaba, their fancfluary at Mecca.
" The vain, imprudent man difmounted from his camel to give them a more eafy opportunity of paying him their refpe6ls, and wlien one of them held him by the hand in token of friendfliip, another cut him acrofs the hams with a broad-fword, and a third run him through the back with a lance. He endeavoured to put his hands to his pif- tols, but it was too late. They afterwards perfuaded his fer- vants, who had fire-arms in their hands, and, like fools, did not life them, to capitulate ; and, after they had difarmed them, they carried them afide and murdered them alfo, then
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took away all the water and camels, and left the Tucorcr^r to die with third. You allced me when I faw him after his leaving Chendi? I tell you it was at a ftation of the Bifha- reen, two hours before you come to Umarack; his body- lay upon the fand v/ithered and dried, but not corrupted;■ his hough- of the right leg, and back-fmew^ of the left, jull above the heel, were cut afunder by a fword. The wounds through his body were apparent. The lance^ I apprehend, had feme crooks below the head of it, as is their cuftom, becaufe a confiderabie quantity of his bowels were drawn out at the back. He had two ■ wounds upon his head, which I fuppofe were given him after he was dead, for they had cut through the fkull entirely, and any one of them would have been mortal in a moment. Ifmaei and the Barbarin threw fand over him.. For my part, I paid no fort of refpe(5t to the carcafe of a man, who, wherr living, had fliewed fo little for my. prefervation. We ■went to the right, and followed fome footfleps;. we faw three men dead, all big and corpulent; they were allthruft through with three lances; each of them had his throat cutj and one his jaw. broken, .
" All the next day the road was ftrewed with the bo- dies of the Tucorory, and the day after, at nine o'clock in the morning, we found his horfe dead; the day following' •we found dead bodies of people, who had perilhed with thirft, fcattered here and there like the tracft of a purfuit after a "battle; their dry bottles, made of gourdsj were grafped in .heir hands, and fomcheld them to their mouths as if fucking chcm. God, as I fay, puniflied this man, by allowing his' pride and prefumption to blind him; for, had we joined Qi\r. companies, there could not have been a better place.'
imagined ​THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. Sij
jmaglncd to have fought the Bifiiarcen than that fpct, had they dared to attacb, which is not probable. It was a nar- row, deepi fandy ftraic, and rugged on each fide of it. Via could have put our camels, with our water, in perfect: Securi- ty behind us, while our fire-arms, fafely from- the rock, would, with the firfl difoharge, have deflroyed the bed men among them, and fcattered the herd of them into the def^rt.- The Tucorory would have feized their camels and water, of which they had but a fmall quantity, or we (hould have fliot the fkins through, or the Aga's horie would have over- taken them. In either cafe, as they were two days journey from Abou Bertran, the greateft part of them wouW have died with thirft ; and if they had chofen to folluw us, which- af ter this rude treatment they would not have done, they could never have reached us till we had got out of clieir territory into thofe of the Ababde, where they were as- much Grangers, and in as great danger as we^ and the wells not capable of filling their girbas, fo that they would have brought themfelvcs both into diftrefs and difpute. This is- all that I know of Mahomet To vvafli."
The Aga faid to himfeif," Ullah Akbar;" and Several of the company made their private ejaculations. The Imam had not yet fpoke,butaddreffing himfeif to the Aga, " True- it is, fays he, God is great, and does what feems to him bell; or who would have thought that, a fervant of the Caaba^ fliould be forfaken, while Kafrs like them, a thoufand of them not of the account of one hair of that man'sf head, were proteded by him, and arrived fafe and un» hMVt r
I WASi ​I was exceedingly angry, but weak in health and spirits; besides, I despised the Imam heartily, and was determined to be silent. But directly addressing himself to me, which he hitherto had not done, "I wonder, says he, how a Kafr like you, a man of no more worth than the dust under a mussulman's feet, should dare to wear a white turban, which none are permitted to do but true believers, and men of consideration in learning, or in the law!" I could hold no longer. "Kafr! said I, do you call me? You are a Kafr yourself. I worship God as you do, and Jesus Christ, whom Mahomet calls Rouch Ullah, the Spirit of God. Kafrs worship stones and trees, are ill-bred, and rude in manners, such as you are. Sir, said I to the Aga, I demand of you if the grand signior, whose firman you have in your hand, when writing of me, calls me Kafr? Does Ali Bey, and the Porte of Janizaries, use such opprobrious expressions? If they do not, you suffer me to be affronted in contempt of their orders, in a fortress which you command in the grand signior's name, which is not to your credit either as a mussulman or a soldier."—"He is right," says an old man, who seemed to be a secretary. "Moullah, says the Aga, I did not expect this from you; I did not think you could be so absurd as to ask any man, returning from so dangerous a journey as his, the reason of the colour of his turban."—"I do not refer that to his discretion, said I, there is my firman; I insist upon its being read at the divan, and I will afterwards dress my head and my body in any colour that is permitted me therein, and that I know is every sort of colour, and I insist that my firman may be read in the Divan." ​THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 6i
J
" MouLLAH, fays Hagi Ifmacl, addreffing himfelf to the Imam, who had twice attempted to fpeak but could not get permiflion, you put me in mind of thefe Uars and thieves at Teawa ; all their turbans were white or green ; they call themfelves muffulmen, and llierafFe, and men of learning like you ; but I fwear, greater Kafrs than they were never in hell. I wifh you may not be fomething of that kind. Hagi Ifmael was Handing behind. He had a barracan like us, a red cap and no turban, and the Moul- lah, I believe, did not know he was a Turk, and ftill lefs that he was a Iherriffe ; I fancy he rather took him for a Greek, from the bad manner in which he pronounced the Arabic. " Friend, faid the prieft, take this piece of advice from me. and fpeak more reverently of your betters, or you may have a chance to get your tongue fcraped." Ha- gi Ifmael was never blefled with much temper. He was very honeft, but, though feventy years old, was as paflion- ate as a child, and the more fo, as he did not underftand the language. He was an officer in the Porte of Janizaries, befides being a flierriffe ; had been fent, as I have already faid, by the Bey to efcort the Abuna to Abyflinia. Un- luckily at this time he underftood what was faid diflin6lly, and came up clofe to the MouUah, faying, in a violent paf- fion, " Kafr Meloun Ibn kelb, /. e. Pagan accurfed, and race of a dog !" do you threaten me, a flierriffe, with a grey beard? Who are my betters ? The Aga is not my fuperior, were he a flierriffe, which he is not. He is an officer of the janizaries as I am; he commands me to-day, and I com- mand him to-morrow ; but, if it was not for his prefence, I would not leave that beard of yours till I had fliaken your head from your flioulders."
3 All ​All now was confusion. I cried, "Hagi Ismael, for God's sake forbear." Every body spoke, no body heard. The Moullah had crossed the room and sat down beside the Aga, who said to him very sternly, "What Yagoube may do, and what he may not do, in Syene, has never been confided to you, though it has been to me, and I have not thought it necessary to take your advice upon it. This man is the servant of a king. Were you to insult him in Constantinople, his complaint would cost a much greater man than you his life, even this day before sun-set. Who taught you to call him Kafr whom you had never before seen, and then abuse the janizary, who, besides, is a sherriffe, and an aged man, whose hand better men than you kiss when they meet him in the street? Go home and learn wisdom, since you cannot teach it; at least, don't make the grand signior's castle the scene of your abuse and folly." The Moullah upon this rebuke departed, very much humbled.
As Michael had brought the drawings, I turned to the trees and flowers. The Aga was greatly pleased with them, and laughed, putting them up to his nose as if smelling them. They did not offend him, as they were not the likeness of any thing that had life. I then shewed him a fish, and reached the book to an old man with a long beard, but who had a very chearful countenance. He looked at it with great surprise. The Aga had several times called him his father. "Do not be angry, says he to me, if I ask you a question. I am not such a man as the Moullah that is gone." "I will answer all your questions with pleasure, said I, and, in your turn, you must not take the answer ill." "No, no, said two or three of them, Hagi Soliman knows better." Soliman. "Do you not believe, says he, that that fish will rise ​THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 617
againft you at the day of judgment ?" Ta. " I do not 'know, but 1 fhall be very much furprifed if it does." " I afliire you he will, fays Hagi Soliman." Ta. " Be it fo, it is a matter of indifference to me." So/. " Do you know what God will fay to you about that fifli ? Shall I tell you? Ta. " I have not the leaft idea, and you will oblige me." Sol. " God will fay to you, Did you make that fifli ? What will you anfwer ? Ta. " I will anfwer, I did." SoL " He will fay to you again. Make a foul to it." Ta. " I will anfwer, I cannot." So/. " He will fay. Why did you make that fifli's body, when you was not capable to give it a foul? What can you anfwer then?" Ta. " 1 made that body, becaufe thou gaveft me talents and capacity to do it. I do not make the foul, becaufe thou haft denied me power and ability, and referved that to thyfelf on- ly." So/. " Do you think he will be contented with that an- fwer?" Ta. " I do moft certainly think fo. It is truth, and I do not think a more dired one can be given." So/. " Aha i the Moullah would tell you that will not do; painting things that have life is idolatry^ and the punifliment is hell-fire." Ta. " Patience, then, my cafe is defperate, for it is not a fin I intend to repent of." Thus ended this curious difcuflion, and we went away in perfecft good humour one with the other. A number of the better fort drank coiFee with me in the evening. The Aga fent me two flieep, and, obferving my feet much inflamed and wounded, made me likewife a prefent of a pair of flippers of foft Turkey leather to defend ihcmfrom the inclemency of the weather.
It was the nth of December when we left Syene ; we cannot fay failed, for our maft being down, we went with the current and the oars, when the wind was againfl: us. In our voyage down the Nile we had but very
Vol. IV. 4 1 indifl^ercnt ​indifferent weather, clear throughout the day, exceedingly cold in the night and morning; but, being better cloathed, better fed than in the desert, and under cover, we were not so sensible of it, though the thermometer shewed the same degrees. Above all, we had a good decent provision of brandy on board, part of which I had procured from the Aga, part from the Schourbatchie my landlord, neither of whom knew the other had given me any, and both of them pretended to each other, and to the world, that they never tasted fermented liquors of any kind, nor kept them in their custody.
I had given to each of my servants, to Soliman and to the Greeks likewise, a common blanket called a barracan, of the warmest and coarsest kind, with a waistcoat and trowsers of the same, and all of us, I believe, had consigned to the Nile the clothes in which we passed the desert. The meanness of our appearance did not at all shock us, since nothing contributes more to safety in a country like this. I passed Shekh Nimmer not without regret, but it was night, and I was very ill.
On the 19th we arrived at How, where the intermitting fever, which I had at Syene, again returned, with unusual violence, and, what was most unlucky, my stock of bark was almost exhausted, and the Rais had business that obliged him to lie by for a day. As we were within a small distance of Furshout, I dispatched one of the Barbarins, with a camel, to the fathers at the monastery of Furshout informing them of my arrival and very bad state of health, and requesting them to send me some wheat bread, as mine was ​THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 619
all confiimcd, and likewife fome rice, if they had any. Uoon the Arab's firil delivering his mcffage the fathers treated him as an irapollor, declaring that they knew from good au- thority that I was drowned in the Red Sea, which another of them contradidled, being equally pofuive, from the fame good.^uthority, that my death had-happened from robbers in Abyffinia. The Barbarin {a ihrewd fellow) defired the fathers to obferve, that, if I had been drowned in the Red Sea, it was not poffible I could be flain by robbers on land two years afterwards ; therefore, as oi)e report was certainly falfe, both might be fo, and he allured them this was the cafe, and that I was at How ; but they laughed him to fcorn, and threatened to carry him to Shekh Hamam to puniflr him. The poor fellow anfwered very pertinently. If I had come in Yagoube's name for gold or fdver, then you might have diftrufted me ; but fure it is not v/orth my v/hile to hire a camel to come here from How, and go back again to cheat you out of two loaves of bread and a pound of rice, Vv^hich I never tailed myfelf till I was with Yagoube, who made us partake of every thing that he ate as long as it lafled, and failed with us when our meat was exhaufced." They con- tinued to allc him, where he had found me ? The fellow faid, At Ras el Feel ; and not being able to dcfcribe where that was, a frefli altercation began, in which it v/as con- cluded betwixt the two reverend difputants, that I had been drowned three years before in the Red Sea, and therefore all the flory of Ras el Feel muft be a lie.
It happened, as indeed was often the cafe in thcfe mat- ters, that my Greek fervant Michael had been more orovi- dent than I. He had thought fomethingof this kind might be poffible, and therefore had defircd the Barbarin, if fo it
4^2 happened, ​Czo TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
happened, to call at Shekh Ifmael's at Badjoura,and inquire of him in my name for a loaf or twoof wheat bread and fome rice. This the Barbarin did with fome diffidence, after the refufal received from the fathers, and was very much fur- prifed at the chearful reception Shekh Ifmael gave him. The bread and rice were fent ; he too had heard of my death, but was much eafier convinced that I was ftill alive than the reverend fathers had been, becaufe more defirous that it fliould be fo.
Next day, the 20th, w€ arrived at Furfhout, though HagI Ifmael's invitation, and the unkindnefs of the fathers, had ftrongly tempted me to take up my quarters at Badjoura to guard him againft thepleurify, and the miftaking again the month of Ramadan. Some aukward apologies pafTed at meeting ; and if thefc fathers, the fole objeft of whofc mif- fion was the converfion of Ethiopia and Nubia, were averfe before to the undertaking their miffion, they did not feem- to increafe in keennefs from the circumflances which theyr learned from me.
On the 27th we failed for Cairo. At a fmall village be- fore we came to Achmim we were hailed by a perfon, who,. though meanly drelled, fpoke with the tone of authority^ and afked for a pafTage to Cairo, which I would have de- nied him if I could have had my own will ; but the Rai& readily promifcd it him upon his fird application. He after- wards told me he was a Copht and a Chnilian, employed; to gather the Bey's taxes in fuch villages as were only in- habited by Chriftians, to which the Bey did not permit his Turks to go. " I heard, fays he, you was coming down the Nile^ and I way-laid you for a pallage ; the Rais knows
who-' ​THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 621
who I am, and that I fliall not be troublefome to you ; but I have a large fum of money, and do not chufe to have it known, I hope, however, you willgive me your protecftion fov the fake of my mailer." — " Indeed, friend, faid I, I have but feven lliillings in the whole world, and my cloaths, I be- lieve, are not worth much above that fum, and it is but a few days ago I was rejoicing at this as one of mygreateft fecurities. Bur fince Providence has, I hope for yoiir good, thrown you and your money in my way, I will do the bell for you that is in my power, the fame as if it was my own."
On the loth of January 1773 we arrived at the convent of St George, all of us, as I thought, worfe in health and fpirits than the day we came out of the defert. Nobody knew us at the convent, either by our face or our language, and it was by a kind of force that we entered. Ifraael, and the Copht went ftraight to the Bey, and I, with great - difficulty, had intercft enough to fend to the patriarch and my merchants at Cairo, by employing the two only piaftres 1 had in my pocket. If the capuchins at Furfliout received us coldly, thefe Caloyeros of St George kept us Hill at a greater diftance. It was half by violence that we got admittance into the convent. But this difficulty was to be but of fhort duration ; the morning was to end it, and give us a fight of our friends, and in the meantime we were to ileep foundly. We had nothing elfe to do, having no visuals, and the Caloyeros nothing to give us, even if they had beent inclined, of which we had not feen yet the fmallell to- ken.
This we thought, and this, in the common view of things, we were intitled to think ; but wc forgot that we were at
Cairo​62t TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
Cairo, no longer to depend upon the ordinary or rational courfe of events, but upon the arbitrary, oppreflive will of irrational tyrants. Accordingly I had, for about an hour, loft myfelf in the very uncommon enjoyment of a moft profound fleep, when I was awakened by the noife of a a number of ftrange tongues ; and, before I could recolle(5t myfelf fufiiciently to account what this flrange tumult might be, eleven or twelve foldiers, very like the worft of banditti, furroundcd the carpet whereon I was afleep. I had prefence of mind fufficient to recollect this was not a place where people were robbed and murdered without caufe; and, convinced in my own mind that I had given none, from that alone I inferred I was not to be robbed or murdered at that inftant. Without this, the appearance of the ftrangers, their drefs, language, and behaviour, all joined to perfuade me of the contrary. I afked them, with fome furprife, " What is the matter, Sirs ? What is the meaning of this freedom ?" The anfwer was in Turkifh, " Aya ! Aya ! Get up ! the Bey calls you." — The Eey, fays I, certainly calls at a very unfeafonable hour." The anfwer was, " Get up, or we will carry you by force." — I fancy friends, faid I, you have miftaken me for fome other perfon, I have not been here above tv/o hours, and fmce that time have never been out of the convent. It is impoflible the Bey fliould know that lamhcre." — " What fjgnilies it to us, fays one in lingua Fran- ca, whether he knows you are here or not ? he has fent us for V weare come, Aya! Aya! get up!" He put his hand
to take me by the arm. " Keep your diftancc, you lack guar (f, faid I, remember I am an Engliihman ; y your hands upon me. If the Bey calls me, he in his own country, and I vvill wait upon him ; ids oil I though I have not fsen Mahomet Bcv thefe
three ​THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 623
three years, he knows what is owing to his own chara(T:er better than to fufFer a Have Hke you to lay his lilthy hands on a ftranger hke me."—" No ! No ! Mallem, fays the . man that fpoke Italian, we will do you no harm. Ifmael,. that you brought from Habefli, has been with the Bey, and he wants to fee you ; and that is all." — Then Hay without, faid I, till I am ready, and I will come to you prefently."
Out they went: I heard them crying to the Caloyeros for drink, but they never in their lives were in a place where they could addrefs themfelves worfe for either meat or li- quors; on the other hand, I did not keep them long in drefT- ing. I had no flairt on, nor had I been mailer of one for fourteen months pafl. I had a waiftcoat of coarfc, brown, woollen blanket, trowfers of the fame, and an upper blan- ket of the fame wrapt about me, and in thefe I was lying. I had cut off my long beard at Furfliout, but ftill wore pro- digious muflachocs, I had a thin, white, muflin cloth round a red Turkifli cap, which ferved me for a night-cap, a girdle of coarfe woollen cloth that wrapt I'ound my waift eight or ten times, and fwaddled me up from the middle to the pit of my ftomach, but without cither Ihoes or flockings,. In the left of my girdle Ihad two Englifli pillbls mounted with filver, and on the right hand a common crooked Abyf- fmian knife, with a handle of a rhinoceros horn. ThuS' e^uipt, I was ufhered by the banditti, in a dark and very windy night, to the door of the convent.
. The Sarach, or commander of the party, rode upon a mule, and, as a mark of extreme confideration, he had brought an afs for me, with fods, or a carfaddlc upon his back, the only animal that, to the fliame o£ our Chriftian rulers, any of our ^ faith; ​624 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
faith is fuffered to ride on in Cairo. The beaft had not a light load, but was ftrong enough. The diiEcuky was, his having no faddle, and there were no llirrups, fo that my feet would have touched the ground had I not held them up, which I did with the utmoft pain and difficulty, as they were all inflamed and fore, and full of holes from the inflam- mation in the defert. Nobody can ever know, from a more particular defcription, the hundredth part of the pain I fuf- fered that night. I was happy that it was all external. I had hardened my heart ; it was fl;rong, vigorous, and whole, from the near profpe6t I had of leaving this moft accurfed .country, and being again refl:ored to the converfation of men.
The mule on which the Sarach rode went at a very brilk pace ; my animal did her befl;, but fhe could not keep up with the mule. Each man of the foldiers, beiides the reft of his arms, had a quarter-ftafF like a watchman's pole, a- bout nine feet long, with which every one in his turn laid heartily on the afs to make her keep up with the Sarach's mule. I had every reafon to fympathize with the bcafl: for the feverity of the blows, of which I was a perfc(5t judge, as whether through malice or heedleflliefs, every fourtli ftroke landed upon my back or haunches, fo that my flelh was diicoloured for more than two months afterwards. Speaking was in vain ; you might as well have cried to the wind not to blow. Few people walk in the flreets of Cairo at night ; fome we did meet who made us way, only obfer- ving to each other, when we pafled, that I was fome thief j:he Janizary Aga had apprehended. In this moft difagree- ^ble nianner, I had rode near three miles, when I arrived at
J - the ​THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 625
the Bey's palace. There all was light and all was buftle, as if it had been noon-day. I alighted with great difficulty from my difconfolate afs, but with much greater pleafure than ever I mounted the finellhorfe in the world. None of the people there knew what I came for, but thought I was fome Arab from the country. At laft I faw a Copht who had been a fervant of Ali Bey. I told him who I was, and he immediately knew me, but had not heard that I was ar- rived, and ftill lefs that I was fent for ; but he went in to the Bey's fecretary, who ordered my immediate admiffion.
In the mean time, my Sarach and company, who hadufed me fo tenderly, came round me, de firing the Bacfifh, or money to drink. " Look you, friend, faid I, your mafter knows me well, and you fliall fee what is the Bacfifh he will give you." A number of Turks Handing by alked, " What did he do to you ? Did he ufe you ill? Tell the Bey, and he will do for him." My friend ieemed to be fenfible he was in a fcrapc, and, though the order of the Bey came for my being admitted, he would not allow me to pafs, but put his back againft the door till I promifed to fay nothing to the Bey.
I WAS introduced to Mahomet Bey Abou Dahab. He was fon-in-law to Ali Bey my friend, whom he had betrayed, and forced to fly into Syria, where he ftill was at the head of a fmall army. He had been prefent with him the day 1 had my laft audience, when he was plainly dreffed as a foldier. A large fofa, or rather two large fofas furniftied with cuiliions, took up a great part of a fpacious faloon. They were of the richeft crimfon and gold, excepting a fmall yel- low and gold one like a pillow, upon which he was leaning,
Vol, IV, 4K fupporting ​626 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
fupporting his head with his left hand, and fitting juft in the corner of the two fofas. Though it was late, he was in full' drefs, his girdle, turban, and handle of his dagger, all Ihi- ning with the finefl brilliants, and a finer fprig of diamonds upon his turban than what I had fecn his father-in-law. wear once when I was with him..
The room was light as day, with a number of wax-torches r or candles. I found myfelf humbled at the fight of fo much greatnefs and affluence. My bare feet were lb dirty, I had a fcruple to fet them upon the rich Perfian carpets with which the whole floor was covered, and the pain that walk- ing at all occafioned gave me altogether fo crouching and cringing a look, that the Bey, upon feeing me come in, cried out, "What's that? Who is that? From whence is become ? His fecretary told him, and immediately upon that I faid to him in Arabic, with a low bow, "Mahomet Bey, I am Yagoube, an Englifliman, better known to your father-in-law than to you, very unfit to appear before you in the condition I am, ha- ving beeji forced ou,t of my bed by yourfoldiers in the middle of the only found fleep I have had for many years." He feem- ed to be exceedingly fhocked at this, and faid to his attend- ants in Turkilli, " My people ! who dares do this ? it is impoflible." Thofe. that.were,priyy to the mefi^age remind- ed him of his fending for me, and the caufe, which he had forgot. They told him what Ifmael had faid, and what the Copht, the tax-gatherer, had mentioned, all very much in my favour. He turned himfelf v/ith great violence on the fofa, and faid, " I remember the man well, but it was not a man like this, this is bad payment indeed. I was going to aflc you, Yagoube, fays he, who thofe were that had brought you out %.fuch.di(lrefs. and I find that I have done it myfelf; but
take.^ ​THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 627
take my word, as I am a mufTulman, I did not intend it, f did not know you was ill."
My feet at that time gave me fuch violent pain that I was like to faint, and could not anfwer, but as there were two flowered velvet cufhions upon one of the fteps above the floor, I was obliged to kneel down upon one of them, as I did not know how fitting might be taken. The Bey im- mediately faw this, and cried out, " What now ? what is the matter ?" I faw he thought I had fome complaint to make, or fomething to afk. I fhewed him my feet in a terrible fituation, the effecfts, I told him, of my paffing through the defert. He defired me immediately to fit down on the cufliion. " It is the coldncfs of the night, and hanging upon the afs, faid I, occafions this ; the pain will be over prefently." "Yon are an unfortunate man, fays the Bey, whatever I mean to do for your good, turns to your mif- fortune." •'" I hope not, Sir, faid I ; the pain is now over, and I am able to hear what may be your commands." "I have many queftions to afk you, fays the Bey. You have been very kind to poor old Ifmael, who is a fherriffe, and to my Chriftian fervant likewife ; and I wanted to fee what I could do for you ; but this is not the time, go home and fleep, and I will fend for you. Eat and drink, and fear nothing. My father-in-law is gone, but, by the grace of God, I am here in his place ; that is enough." I bowed, and took my leave.
The Bey had fpoken feveral times to his fervant in Turk- ilh ; but thefe interruptions are too common at fuch au- diences to be taken notice of. I went out to the anticham- ber attended by five or fix people, and then into another
4 K 2 room ​028 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
room, the door of which opened to the lobby where his fol- diers or fervants were. There was a flave very richly dref- fed, who had a fmall bafket with oranges in his hand, who came out at another door, as if from the Bey, and faid to me, " Here, Yagoube, here is fonne fruit for you."
In that country it is not the value of the prefent, but the charadter and power of the perfon that fends it, that creates the value ; 20,000 men that flept in Cairo that night would have thought the day the Bey gave them at an audience the worft orange in that bafket the happieft one in their life. It is a mark of friendfliip and protecflion, and the bell of all afTurances. Well accuftomed to ceremonies of this kind,. I took a lingle orange, bowing low to the man that gave it me, who whifpered me, " Put your hand to the bottom, the bed fruit is there, the whole is for you, it is fi"om the Bey." A purfe was exceedingly vifible. It was a large crimfon one wrought with gold, not netted or tranfpaient as ours are, but liker a flocking. I lifted it out ; there were a confiderable number of fequins in it ; I put it to my mouth and kifTed it, in refpe(5l from whence it came, and faid to the young man that held the baflcet, " This is, indeed, the beft fruit, at leaft commonly thought fo, but it is forbid- den fruit for me. The Bey's prote(5tion and favour is more agreeable to me than a thoufand fuch purfes would be."
The fervant fhewed a prodigious furprife. In fliort, no- thing can be more incredible to a Turk, whatever his qua- lity may be, than to think that any man can refufe moriey offered him. Although I exprefled myfelf with the utmoil gratitude and humility, finding it impofTible to prevail up- 'on me, the thing appeared fo extraordinary, that a beggar
■ a i^​THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 629
in a barracan, drcfled like thofe flaves who carry water, and wafh the flairs, fhould refufe a purfe of gold, he could no longer confent to my going away, but carried me back to where the Bey was Hill fitting. He was looking at a large piece of yellow fat tin. He afked the ufual queftion, " How, now? What is the' matter? To which his flave gave him a long anfwer in Turkifh. He laid down the fattin, turned to me, and faid, " Why, what is this ? You mull furely want money; that is not your ufual drefs ? What! does this pro- ceed from your pride ?"
" Sir, anfwercd I, may I beg leave to fay two words to you ? There is not a man to whom you ever gave money more grateful, or more fenfible of your generofity in oiTer- ing it me, than I am at this prefent. The reafon of my waiting upon you in this drefs was, becaufe it is only a few hours ago fince I left the boat. I am not however a nee- dy man, or one that is diftrefled for money ; that being the cafe, and as you have already my prayers for your chari- ty, I would not deprive you of thofe of the widow and the orphan, whom that money may very materially relieve. Julian and Rofa, the firft houfe in Cairo, will furnifh me with what money I require; befides, I am in the fervice of the greateft king in Europe, who would not fail to fup- ply me abundantly if my neceffities required it, as I am travelling for his fervice." — " This being fo, fays the Bey, with great looks of complacency, what is in my power to do for you ? You are a llrangcr now where I command ; you are my father's llranger likewife, and that is a double obligation upon me : What fliall i do ?" — " There are, faid I, things that you could do, and you only, if it were not too
great. ​6,2o TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
great prefumption for me to name them." — " By no means, if I can I will do it ; if not, I will tell you fo."
I SAW by the Bey's manner of fpeaking that I had rifen confiderably in chara6ter in his opinion fuice my refufal of the money. " I have,- Sir, faid I, a number of countrymen, brave, rich, and honefl, that trade in India, where my king has great dominions." He faid, as half to himfelf, " True, we know that." " Now there are many of thefe that come to Jidda. I left there eleven large flaips belonging to them, who, according to treaty, pay high duties to the cuftom- houfe, and, from the didates of their own generofity and magnificence, giveJarge prefents to the prince and to his fervants for protedlion; but the fherrifFe of Mecca has of late laid duty upon duty, and extortion upon extortion, till the Englifh are at the point of giving up the trade altoge- ther." " Ibn Cahaba, fays he, (which is, fon of a wh — re,) he paid for that v/hen I was at Mecca." The Bey took Mecca," fays a man at my flioulder, " Why, fays the Bey, when they fay you are fuch a brave nation, why don't you beat down Jidda about his ears ? Have you no guns in your Ihips ?" " Our fliips, Sir, faid I, are all armed for war; flout vefTels, full of brave officers and fl-cilful feamen : Jidda, and much flronger places than Jidda, could not refifl one of them an hour. But Jidda is no part of our dominions ; and, in countries belonging to flranger princes we cany our- felves lowly, and trade in peace, and never ufe force till o- bliged to it in our own defence." " And what would you have me to do ?" fays he. " Our people, replied I, have ta- ken a thing into their head which I am fatisfied they are well founded in : They fay, that if you would permit them to bring their fhips and merchandize to Suez, 4 and ​T H E S O U R C E O F T H E N IL E. 6^i
and ilot to Jidda, they might then depend upon your word, that, if they were pundual in fulfiUing their en- gagements, they Ihould never find you faiUng in yours." " That they fliall never have to fay of me, fays the Bey; all this is to my advantage. But you do not tell me what I am to do for you?" " Be fleady, Sir, f^id I, in your promife; it is now late, but I will come again to fettle the duties with you ; and be afTured, that when it is known at home what, at my private defire, you hare done formy country in gene- ral, it will be the greatefl honour that ever a prince confer- red on me in my life." " Why, let it be fo, fays he, bring coffee; fee you admit him whenever he calls ; bring a caf- tan*." Coffee was accordingly brought, and I was cloath- ed in my caftan. I went down flairs with my barracan hid under it, and was received with greater refpeft by the bye-ilanders than when I came up ; the man was the fame, but it was the caftan that made the difference. My friend the Sarach and his banditti were ready at the door with a mule, which had gilt ftirrups, an-d was finely capari- foned, .
I WENT back with fullas much fpeed as I came, but free from thofe falutations of the quarter-ftaff, which I flill felt upon my haunches. The fcale of politenefs was now turn- ed in my favour ; and to fliew their refpecfl for me, the fol- diers knocked down every perfon they overtook in the flireets, giving him firft a blow with the quarter-ftaff upon the head, then afking him, why he did not get out of the way ? All my people at St George had given me over for
loft, or thought I had gone home to the French merchants, and taken my bed there.
I WAS twice after this with Mahomet Bey, in which time I concluded the agreement in favour of the Englifh mer- chants. Inftead of ^4 per cent, and an enormous prefent, the Bey agreed for 8, and no prefent at all, and at his own expence fcnt the firman to Mocha, together with my letter, a copy of which, and inftrutStions given in India in confe- quence, I have here fubjoined.
Mr GREiG,.capt, Thornhill's lieutenant, whom I have mentioned as having feen at Jidda, was the lirft who came down the Gulf to Suez in the Minerva, and in the whole voyage, both by fea and after at Cairo, behaved in a manner that did honour to his country.
In the two fubfequent vifits which I paid to Mahomet Bey, i received the firman, and had a converfation before the Bey with the man that was to go exprefs to Mocha ; not that I thought my recommendation was of any confequence after his receiving orders from the Bey, but I knew very well, as dihgence was recommended to him, that it might be fecured by a fmall gratuity given unknown to the Bey. Two other fimilarprefents, of no great value, were /I ike wife given to the two fervants who had afllfled me in procu- ring the firman, the original of which I left with the Vene- tian conful. I thought it was unbecoming of me to ftarve a caufe that promifed to be both a private emolument and public benefit ; and, as i never expeded, fo I never received the fmalleil return or acknowledgement either public or
private.
It ​THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 6:^^
It may be faid, that the trade carried on there by Suez ftnd the Ifthtnus would not be of any advantage to the India Company, but rather a detriment to it. Such was the an- fwerlgot from Lord North upon my firft interview with his Lordfliip after my return, and upon which I fhall not pretend to decide. But this I fhall fubmit to the public, whether, when a great object, fuch as that was, is unex- peftedly in the power of an individual, he is not obli- ged, as a good citizen, to avail himfelf of the occafion. that offers, and leave it to that part of the public concerned, to determine whether they can make it of fervice to them, or not.
I HAVE read, either in Abbe Prevot or M. de Maillet, (the reader will affift me, as neither of thefe books are in my hands at prefent) that the French, in the beginning of this century, offered a Very large fum of money to the govern- ment of Cairo, to be allowed to fend only an advice-boat to Suez, to carry and bring back their difpatches from their fettlements in India, but they were conftantly refufed ; both the India Company and Britifli Government are, by my means, now in poffcffion of that privilege, and I am in- formed it has already been of ufe, both in public and pri- vate difpatches.
I MUST further be permitted to fay, that, independent of tliefe particulars, it feemed very ftrange that, confidering the immenfe empire which belonged to Britain in the Eaft Indies, the Company and their fervants fhould be, to a man, fo perfectly ignorant of the Red Sea and ports in it, and fo in- different as to the means of being better informed ; a fea
Vol, IV. 4 L which ​634 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
which wafhed the fliores of their conquefts, and came, at the fame time, within twodays journey of the Mediterranean. To my endeavom's it is owing that fo many mgenious gen- tlemen have had an opportunity of lending their hands to perfed the chart of that fea, which I hope is now in great forwardnefs. It would perhaps, too, have been more ge- nerous and liberal-minded in them, had they honoured the author of the liberty and fafety they enjoyed, with at lead a word of their approbation. Prifons and chains, ranfoms, torments, and perhaps death itfelf, were the calamities they efcaped by my preparing, their way, and to this would have been added the mifcarriage of their defiga and their under- taking likewife*..
letter and fitman. ​THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 635
Copy of Mr Bruce's Letter to the Gentlemen trading to the Red Sea from the Britifli Settlements Bombay and Ben- gal.
Cairo, \ft February^ ^111'
GiNTLEMEN,
AT the defire of feveral of the gentlemen trading to Jidda in the year 1 769, 1 have fpoken to the Bey of Cai- ro (Mahomet Bey,) that he would give permiffion for bring- ing the India fliips direaiy to Suez, without flopping at Jid- da,where they were conflantly ill-treated by thefherrifre,and neither payments puna:ual nor their effears in ilifety. Ma- homet Bey exprelTed all the defire poffible to have this fpeedily executed. He difpatched this exprefs, in which I iaclofe you the terms of agreement, with a tranilationfrom the Arabic original. You will fee he renounces all prefents, which, however, it will be always prudent to give. Mo- derate ones will ferve, provided he behaves faithfully and generoully, as 1 believe firmly lie will. He feeks 8 per cent, cufloms, and leaves it in your option to pay this in goods or money, and 50 patackas ancliorage for each vefi:el ; this is for the captain of the port of Suez.
" Arrived at Suez, you will do well to give notice to any of the houfes you chufe to addrefs yourfelves to. There are three French houfes of note here ; MeiL Napollon and Co. Meii: Rofa and Co. and Meli: I'Angladc and Co. ; and thefe three are rich houfes, in great credit, and with whom you are very fafe. There is alfo an Italian houfe of
4^2 credit ​636 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
credit equal to thefe, but not fo rich ; it is Pini and Co. It will always be your intereft, if more than one lliip comes, to addrefs yourfelves to feparate houfes, for by this means you will be fooner difpatched, have more friends, lefs rifk,. and more intelligence.
" As I have no view in this but your advantage, fo I wiU not take upon myfclf toanfwer for any confequences. You^ know what Turks are. I never faw one of them to be trufted in money affairs. You mufl keep your eyes open, and deal for ready money. You will, however, be much fa- fer, be better ufed, have better markets, and be fooner dif- patched ; and if any of your cargo remains unfold, you may leave it here in great fecurity, with a certainty'of its felling in winter; and the money will be either remitted to- England, or ready for you here at your return, as you di^ re6t.
" Cairo is in lat. 30* 2' 45"; two days and a half eafy- journey from it is Suez, in lat. 29° 57' 15". Ras Mahomet, the Cape that forms the eaftern fliore of the entrance into the Gulf of Suez, is in lat. 27° 54' 10". You fhould make this Cape while it bears N. E. or N. E. by E. at farthell, for farther call: is the entrance of a gulf which has often been miflakcn for that of Suez. Laflly, Tor, the firll inha- bited place after paffing the Cape, is in lat. 28' 12' 4" ; here you may have provifions, water, and a pilot.
" There are no Englifh merchants at Cairo ; but there
comes, from time to time, a wandering fort of (harpers
under that name, cither from Mahon, the Greek iflands, or
3 Leghorn ; ​THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. ^37-
Leghorn ; and after an eftablifliment of one year, break and difappcar. Be careful of having any thing to do with thefe, for they will either rob you themfelves, or betray you to the government, or both. There is no fafety but with the three French and one Italian houfe, before mentioned. If you addrefs youi^felf to the government, in your affairs of iariffs and firmans, you may do it through means of the Venetian conful, immediately upon your arrival, putting yourfelves under his protedlion. He is a man of honour and credit, and is a colonel in the fervice of his ftate. Let him fend you the tariff of the Bey before you come to Cairo, or land an ounce of cargo, and you will Aitisfy him for his trouble. He does not trade, but is very well-affedled to our nation, and there is no conful here but the French and Venetian.
" In a word. Gentlemen, I have feen yourtrade to Jidda, and it is a ruinous one, and the flierriffe, now poor and hungry, will every day rob you more ^nd more. After the fealing up the houfe, and exacting part of the effects of the captains who died at Jidda, there is no fafety for you but. either at Mocha or Suez,.
I am always,
Gentlemen,
Your mofl obedient and mofl humble ferv*.
JAMES BRUCE."
gal Merch', Captain Thomas Price of the Lion, or any other of the Englilh veffds trading to Jid- da."
r.s. ​638 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
P. S. " I fend you a copy of the firman ; alfo letters for the governors of Bombay and Bengal, inclofing the fame ; you will fee the tranilator be a perfon of truft, and have no intereft in deceiving you. If I did not think you very fafe at Suez I would not write you. You are to bring no coffee, or any produce of Arabia, at leafl the firll voyage, till you make your terms here. I inclofe you a letter from the chief of the cuilomhoufq.
J.B.^
Copy of Inflru(5lions from the Managers of the Suez Adven- venture, to Mr John Sha'w, and Captain William Greig^
" Gentlemen,
THE proprietors of the Suez Adventure having made choice of you to condu(5l the undertaking, it is our duty as managers to give you the neceffary inftrudtions. Inclofed you will receive invoice and bills of loading of the cargo, and likewife of the freight loading on the Bengal Merchant, on account and rilk of the concerned, which you are to difpofe of in the gulf of Mocha, Jidda, or Suez, on the mofl advantageous terms, obferving at the fame time, as nearly as poiTible, the following inftruftions :
" As many unforefeen accidents may happen that we cannot guard againfl, and as the proprietors have placed in us an implicit confidence, we now delegate to you, Gentle- men, full power and authority to condiKfl and manage this new undertaking, for which your credit, as well I as ​as ours, is engaged; and though we hope it is unnecessary to recommend to you as an object of the greatest importance, and on which the success of all undertakings depends, a good understanding and harmony between those who are to execute, we are satisfied that your attention to the interest of the proprietors, and your own reputation, will outweigh every other consideration, and that nothing will interrupt that union which is so absolutely necessary to insure success in new undertakings like the present.
"You are to draw a commission of 5 per cent. on the sales. Mr Shaw, as chief supercargo, will draw 3, and Capt. Greig 2 per cent. and on all freight in the same proportion as the cargo. Passengers, or other emoluments that are customary, are to be equally divided between you, and no separate interest to be allowed. As it is usual in all voyages from this port, where there is a supercargo, to allow one-sixth of the cargo as privilege, in lieu of which 12,000 rupees will be divided between you and the officers on return of the vessel.
"Mr Shaw, as chief supercargo, is to have the sole management and disposal of the cargo, and Captain Greig to have the entire management of the navigation of the vessels employed. At the same time, we recommend and desire, that, in all points which require advice in either of the departments, you consult with each other, and that no material step be taken without such advice and consultation; and, should there be a difference in opinion, we expect a minute be made, and the reason for such difference fully set forth, in order to be laid before the proprietors at your return. To prevent any misunderstanding of the general instructions,[640] we shall separate, in the latter part, the two branches of the naval and mercantile, and be more clear and explicit in each particular department. ​640 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
we fliall feparate, in the latter part, the two branches of the naval and mercantile, and hz more clear and explicit in each particular department.
"The vefTels to be employed in the voyage are the Ben- gal Merchant, on board of which the cargo is {hipped. The Cuddalore fchooner, Captain Wedderburn, is granted by the governor* to the proprietors as a tender, to allill in the dif- covery of the pafTige to Suez, and the proprietors are to pay- half the failing charges. On her Mr Cunningham, a fur- veyor, is appointed, and both he and the vefTel are entirely under your diredlion, and they are to receive, from time to time, fuch inftrudlions as you may judge neceffary. The Suez pacquet is a fmall fchooner equipped for the purpofe of attending the Bengal Merchant in the moft difficult parts of the navigation ; and as fhe cannot be further ufeful af- ter your return from Suez to Mocha, we defire fhe may be fold there, where frequently fmall velTels fell to advantage*
" On your leaving the pilot you will make the beft of your way, with the other two vellels under your charge, to the Malabar coaft, and touch at Anjingo and Cochin, ta- king in there coir, hav/fers, aiid water, or any thing you may ftand in need of, and without lofs of time proceed di- recTt to Mocha. On your arrival there you mufl make in- quiry if any pilots are come down from Suez; ftiould none be arrived, lofe as little time as poilible, and proceed up a- bove Jidda to Yambo, provided you hear no unfavourable accounts from Suez, I'uch as war, or any commotions at
Cairo.
Warren Haflings, Efq. ​THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 641
Cairo, which you might think may endanger the fuccefs of the voyage.
" If fuch accounts are rumoured at Mocha, trace them fo as to be fully fatisfied there is foundation for them, and if you have good authority to credit the reports propagated, and are certain they are not fpread with a view co difcourage your proceeding, in that cafe we advife your proceeding to Jidda as moft for the intereft of the concerned. At Jidda you will deliver the cuftomary letters to the bafha and flierrifFe, and, without taking notice of any further projedt, difpofe of your cargo, as the articles are all of the proper aflbrtment for that market, and we defire, in that cafe, you collecft your returns as expeditioufly as poffible ; and if you find any confiderable freight for Bombay, and rhe feafon will admit your going there from Mocha, fo as to arrive in Bengal by the middle of 0(5tober, in that cafe you will purchafe a cargo of cotton, and proceed here direcftly. Whatever lilver you may have after the purchafe of the cotton, you will pay into the Company's treafury for bills on this prefidency. If you cannot procure a good freight at Jidda for Bombay, we delire you will proceed ifrom Mo*- cha to the coaft of Coromandel, and touch at Negapatnam-, where letters will be lodged for you.
" On your arrival at Mocha, fhould you hear no unfa- vourable accounts of war, or any diflurbances at Cairo, you will proceed to Yambo, where you will again inquire if there are any pilots acquainted with the paflage to Suez. If you meet with any who, upon examination, appear ca- pable of condudting the veflel, we recommend your taking
Vol. IV. 4 M them ​them on board, but still be very cautious how you trust them; order them to conduct you up the common track, and keep the two vessels with you till you are satisfied of their abilities, then we advise your dispatching the Cuddalore the outward passage, in order to survey it up to Suez, and give them orders to join you there. But should you be to unlucky as not to meet with pilots, there will be no alternative but to proceed with the greatest care and caution the outward passage, with your two tenders a-head both day and night, till you reach Tor, where you will meet with pilots and water; and as we have reason to believe the danger of the passage is then over, if you find it to be the case, you will dispatch back the Cuddalore to make a correct survey as far down as Jidda, in the lat. of 21° 30'. As it cannot be supposed you will be able to make an exact survey in going up in mid-channel, you will instruct Captain Wedderburn to follow the surveyor's order, but at the fame time to make all necessary remarks himself, as also his officers, and to finish the survey as expeditiously as possible, and to return to the ship at Suez; but should more time be taken up, and he finds it impracticable, he must endeavour to go to Yambo, and there wait for the dispatches, if he can do it with safety; if not, to return to Mocha, and remain there to supply himself with such necessaries as he may find in need of, to be ready to make the best of his way to Bengal, as soon as he receives your dispatches, and the monsoon will allow him to proceed.
"On your arrival at Suez you will inquire of the master of the port, or governor, whether or not he has any letters, &c. from his master the Bey, respecting you? Should he have none, you will desire him to forward the short letter from the governor, informing him of the arrival of ​THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 643
the fhip at his port. You muft not land a piece of goods, or enter into any agreement or contrail, &c. till you hear from the Bey, and, from the anfwer you receive, confult how to a6t ; but let it be with great caution, till you are perfecftly fatisfied of the friendly difpofition of the Bey to- wards you, as we have reafon to expe6l the Bey's anfwer will be polite and favourable, and an invitation to vifit Cai- ro. Mr Shaw will then proceed with the purfer, and any other of the officers you may think proper, with a few laf- cars and fervants, properly equipped, to make the embalTy brilliant and refpecftable. The letters, prefents, and mufters of the cargo fhov'u go at the fame time ; and we recom- mend that, on Mr Shaw's arrival at Cairo, after he retires from the Bey, he makes a vifit to the Venetian Conful, whom Mr Bruce has mentioned very particularly in his letter. If he finds him the fame perfon he has defcribed, he will re- ceive from him fuch necelTary information as may be ufe- ful in his future tranfacftions, and will put himfelf under his protedlion in preference to the French houfes ; but he will ad with extreme caution, till he difcovers fuch connec- tion is not difagreeable to the Bey, with whom he muft ap- pear to be, on all occafions, perfedly fatisfied. We furnifli you with a copy of Mr Bruce's letter, to whom we confider ourfelves much obliged for the information he has given us. His letters you will find of great fervice in condutSling your bufinefs there, and to which viC advife your paying ftri(5l attention.
" We defire that Captain Greig may remain on board the fliip till all the cargo is difpatched and landed, in order to give every necefifary advice in tranfporting the fame, and when that is finifhed, Captain Greig is to proceed to Cairo,
4 M 2 and ​644 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
and afford Mr Shaw any affiftance he may require; and wa-: deiire, and parcicularly recommend, that; as foon as the cargo is fold, and Mr Shaw has made the neceffaiy obferva- tions and remarks on the reception he has met with, the goods that have fold to moft advantage, and of the forts that will beft anfwer in future, and other occurrences, that you difpatch fuch accounts, by the firll conveyance you may have to Jidda, to Captain Anderfon of the Succefs galley, and duplicate, by the Suez pacquet to Mocha, to Captain Wed- derburn of the Cuddalore fchooner, with orders for him to proceed to Bengal without delay ; and we defire that thefe difpatches may be directed in a large pacquet to the go- vernor for his perufal, with draughts and remarks on the • paffage,
"As we think it of great confequence that you ufe alf poffible difpatch in linifliing your bufinefs at Grand Cairo, fo as to leave Suez as early as the feafon will permit, if the Cuddalore* has been able to join you after the furvey, you will then proceed down the channel fhe has difcovered; but if, on the contrary, fhe has not jained you, and that the Suez pacquet is likewife gone with the difpatches, you muft- then procure good pilots, and, if poffible, a fmall veffel for- fear of. accidents, and go down the ufual tr-a(?t of the Suez veffels ; making particular remarks on thatpaffage, proceed . on to Mocha, and you will attend to th^e former part of your- iollrudions refpetfting the deftination of the veffel.
" Having-
* The Cuddalore was loft in a ftorm in the bay of Bengal, and Captain Weddeiburn ^, drowned before the commencement of the voyage. A fmall veffel, called a G.allevat, viaSj. J!i>fcfli»u;edjConycai)dccrby Captain MofTatj who made the voyage. ​THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. C45
" Having now finifhed our general inftrudlions, we think it neceffary to be more particular in each branch of ^0ur departments.
{CUDBERT ThORNHILL. Robert Holford. David Killican."
To Captain Greic
'*SIR,
WE rely on your knowledge, experience, and good con- duct for the navigating part of the voyage, which is entirely intrulled to you"; and though we have defired that you advife with Mr Shaw on all difficult points, yet we give you a latitude to follow your own opinion, though contrary to Mr Shaw's, but we expedl you both enter a minute, and fet forth your reafons for being of different opinions* Should it be a point of confequence, we advife that you confult with all the officers, and.their opinions are to be re- corded.
" We deiire that a fair log-book be kept, figned by the of- ficer who leaves the deck at noon, in which book every re- mark and. tranfadlion during the voyage is to be inferted, and no erafures muft be made, or leaves torn out. Inclofed is a letter from us to Captain Wedderburn of the Cuddalore, dire(5ling him to follow fuch orders as he may from time to tim^ receive from, you,«
«t,
At. ​"At Ingerlee you will give him written orders to keep you company, with such proper signals for day and night as may be necessary; and should he, by stress of weather or any other accident, part company, you will inform him of your first place of rendezvous, Anjango and Cochin; should he arrive first, he must remain till you come: Should you arrive and finish your business before the arrival of the Cuddalore, you will wait two or three days, and then proceed to Mocha, leaving orders for his joining you there. If by any accident he should not join you there, and you have got pilots for Suez, you must not lose time, but proceed without him, leaving him instructions to proceed on the survey: but should it so happen that you meet with no pilots at Mocha, and the Cuddalore should not arrive, we still recommend your waiting at Mocha as long as you think it prudent; and if you have the Suez pacquet with you, you will proceed to Suez if possible, and endeavour to make the island to the S. W. of Cape Ras Mahomet, that you may not make any mistake and get into the false gulf: but should you find it impracticable after making every prudent attempt, you will then have a consultation with Mr Shaw and your officers, and bear away for Jidda, following the directions in your general instructions.
"The concerned has been at an immense expence to equip the vessels with additional stores, which in any other voyage than the present would be superfluous, we therefore desire (should your voyage terminate at Jidda) that you endeavour to dispose of such articles of stores as you are not in want of; but should you arrive at Suez, let them remain oppor​tunity to dispose of them for the advantage of the concerned, we desire it may be done.
"Should any of the officers be good draughts-men, we desire you will encourage them to make draughts of every thing remarkable in the Red Sea, and we will make them an acknowledgement for their trouble; but we recommend that every remark, draught, or drawing of the passage, may be collected together for the governor's perusal; and we hope you will take proper care that, on your return, nothing transpire till the governor's sentiments are known. Should Mr Shaw be obliged to stay with the goods at Cairo, you are to let him keep an officer, and any number of lascars he may require, and that you can spare them.
CUDBERT ThORNHILL. (Signed) Robert Holford. David Killican." ​Mahomet Bey being about to depart to give battle to his father-in-law, I thought it was no longer convenient for me to stay at Cairo; I went therefore the last time to the Bey, who pressed me very much to go to the camp with him. I was sufficiently cured, however, of any more Don Quixotte undertakings. I excused myself with every mark of gratitude and profession of attachment; and I shall never forget his last words, as the handsomest thing ever said to me, and in the politest manner. "You won't go, says he, and be a soldier; What will you do at home? You are not an India merchant?" I said, "No." "Have you no other trade nor occupation but that of travelling?" I said, "that was my occupation." "Ali Bey, my father-in-law, replied he, often observed there was never such a people as the English; no other nation on earth could be compared to them, and none had so many great men in all professions by sea and land: I never understood this till now, that I see it must be so, when your king cannot find other employment for such a man as you, but sending him to perish by hunger and thirst in the sands, or to have his throat cut by the lawless barbarians of the desert."
I saw that the march of the Bey was a signal for all Egypt's being presently in disorder, and I did not delay a moment to set out for Alexandria, where I arrived without any thing remarkable. There I found my ship ready; and the day after, walking on the key, I was accosted by a friend of mine, a Turk, a man of some consequence. He told me it was whispered that the Beys had met, and that Ali Bey had been totally defeated, wounded, and taken, "We are friends, says he; you are a Christian; and this connection of the Bey with the Russians has exasperated the ​lower sort of people greatly against you all. What is a day or two to you, now you are going at any rate? Be advised; go on board your ship early in the afternoon, and make your captain haul out beyond the Diamond, for mischief is at hand." My captain was as ready as I; and we accordingly hauled out beyond the Diamond. The weather was so clear, and the wind so directly fair, that, contrary to custom, we set sail that very night, after being witnesses that the mischief had begun, by the number of lights and repeated firings of muskets we heard from the town.
Our vessel sprung a leak off Derna on the coast, where I was once before shipwrecked. The wind being contrary, we put about ship, and flood before it for Cyprus, our vessel filled apace, and we were intending to put a cable round her waist when the leak was found. A violent storm overtook us the night after. I apprehend our ship was old, and the captain was again much alarmed, but the wind calmed next day. I was exceedingly distressed with the Guinea-worm in my leg, when the captain came and sat down by my bedside. "Now the matter is over, fays he, will you tell me one thing? it is mere curiosity; I will not let any one know." "Before I tell you, said I, I dare say you will not; what is it?" "How many of those things, you know, says he, winking, have you on board?" "Upon the word of a man, said I, I do not know what you mean." "Ces morts! these dead men! how many have you in these trunks? for last night the crew was going to throw all your boxes overboard." "I can tell you, captain, said I, that you and they ​had better been in bed sick of a fever, than been guilty of that unprovoked violence. 'Brutal comme un Provencal,' is a proverb even in your own country; I would not wish to have such a confirmation of the truth of it. But there are my keys, in case another gale should come, choose out of my trunks the one that, according to your idea, and theirs, is likeliest to have a dead man in it, and then take another; and the first one you find, throw them all overboard. I forced him to open two of the chests, and, lucky it was, as I believe, for off the island of Malta we had another violent gale, but which did us no damage. At last, after a passage of about three weeks, we landed happily at Marseilles.
Nullum numen abest si sit prudentis; sed Te, Nos facimus, Fortuna Deum, calique locomus.
JUVEN.
* ↑ Mr Haftings, here alluded to, with these memorandums and informations, difpatched the Swallow jacket to the Red Sea.
* ↑ The Diamond is a small rock, just without the harbour of Alexandria; when ships arrive there, they are cleared out, and never molested further by the customhouse.