# How and What to Grow in a Kitchen Garden of One Acre (10th Ed)/Strawberries

Layout 2
STRAWBERRIES.
There should be one or two rows of strawberries across the garden; the rows four feet apart. It will be found a great deal easier to keep them free from weeds and to gather the fruit when grown in this way. The varieties, one early and one late, or both rows of a continuous bearing kind, should be of the perfect flowering character, as there are plenty of varieties of this character which are as good and prolific as any pistillate sort grown, and they are not so much trouble to grow, or as uncertain a crop. The plants should be set early in the spring, in well-manured ground, twelve inches apart in the row, and should be hoed and cultivated as frequently as possible. As the runners start lay them lengthways of the row and let them root in, keeping the soil loose and fine, so that they can easily take hold.
The blossoms should be kept picked off the season of planting, or they will take the strength of the young plant so that it will make but a feeble growth ​and no runners. In growing the plants in this way the runners should not be allowed to form a row more than one and a half feet wide, as this will be fully two feet in the second season, and as much as a picker can manage. The grass particularly should be kept out of the rows of young plants, or it will take a start in the spring and entirely crowd out the strawberries.
These rows should be set out every spring, taking the plants from the outside of the rows planted the preceding year, as it is almost impossible to keep them free from weeds after the first season, besides which they do not bear more than half so many, nor nearly such large berries, the second season. Unless the ground is very rich where the young plants are set, it is a good plan to sow a heavy coat of phosphate, bone, or, best of all, wood ashes, just before they are worked with the cultivator for the first time in the spring. The young plants should not be planted in land that has just been in sod, as it is full of white grubs, which will cat the plants off underground, and care should also be taken that the manure for the strawberry plot is not infested with them. These rows should be lightly covered with long manure, old hay or other litter, in the fall, after the ground has become frozen hard, so that they may be protected from rapid freezing and thawing; and if the covering is not too heavy, it can be left on in the spring and the plants will shoot up through it, leaving it as a mulch and serving to keep the berries clean, by saving them from contact with the ground, ​as does the straw mulching, from which the berry is generally supposed to take its name.
In selecting varieties choose those which are recommended as suitable for your soil, heavy or light, or such as have proved good in your immediate neighborhood, as some of the finest kinds are worthless in a different soil from that to which they are adapted. If especially fine, large berries are desired, the plants should be set in rows three feet apart, the plants twelve inches, as before, and all the runners kept cut off as fast as they appear. In this case heavy mulching is imperative, or the stools will be thrown out of the ground in the spring freezing and thawing. When the spring opens, the mulching should be cleared away from the crown of the plant, but should be allowed to remain on the ground surrounding the plant, as the weeds can easily be kept from such a patch, and fresh fertilizer applied. The patch may be continued in bearing for two or three seasons, but it will be found a great deal easier if a fresh patch is planted in new ground each year.