# A Topographical Description of the State of Ohio, Indiana Territory, and Louisiana/The Journal of Mr. Charles Le Raye

THE
JOURNAL
OF
Mr. CHARLES LE RAYE.
In the year 1801, I left Canada with an adventure of goods, to trade on the Missouri. I arrived at the French settlement on the Illinois, early in September, and concluded to ascend the Osage river, and to trade with the Osage nation. Here I procured two additional hands, which completed my complement of six men besides my self. As soon as my perioque was finised, we embarked. On the 21st of September, I entered the mouth of the Missouri, and as the waters were low, we ascended with ease.
On the 7th of October, entered the Osage river, and ascended seven miles, where we encamped to hunt, and procure meat. Nothing material occured until the 23d, when we had ascended within sixty miles of the Osage village, and had encamped for the night, at a small stream, on the east side of the river. After supper I ordered the men, who were in a tent on the shore, ​to keep a watch, as usual, and retired to the perioque to sleep. Just before day, I was awaked by the rushing of a number of Indians through the brush, and before I could disengage my self and my gun from the buffaloe robe, in which I was enwrapped, an Indian, followed by five or six more, rushed into the boat, and seizing my gun, dragged me on shore. As soon as they had bound me, I was hurried back into the boat, and seven Indians jumping in, they bushed the boat from the shore, and hurried down the river, as fast as they could paddle. I saw a large number on the bank around the tent. It was so dark I could not distinctly see my men, but heard the voice of one of them speaking to the Indians, in the Osage tongue. From this, I concluded they were Osage Indians.
The Indians in the boat proceeded with me down the river about twenty miles, and came to their encampment, kept by four lads, fourteen or fifteen years old. Here they unloaded the boat. I was anxious to know the fate of my men, and about noon was much relieved by seeing them brought in by the rest of the party. The number of Indians now, were forty-six men, and four lads. They immediately collected their horses, fourteen in number, and the goods were loaded on them. We were all bound with buffaloe cords over our arms, and, travelling up the branch, until about midnight, we encamped. When we lay down to sleep, we were secured between two Indians, one ​of which had the end of the cord with which we were bound, around his body. In the morning, after eating some dried meat, for which purpose our arms were loosened, we pursued a course, north or west, and leaving the creek, we crossed several ridges covered with grass, but entirely destitute of timber. About noon we crossed a small stream, a branch of the stream we had ascended, and encamped on it, at night. On the 25th of October, we travelled through a country somewhat broken, and destitute of timber, but game was very plenty, and two deer were shot. At night we encamped by an excellent spring. There being no wood, we kindled a fire with dry weeds, and broiled meet for our suppers.
On the 26th we set forward early, and continuing a west course, came to a stream of water which one of my men, who had been on the Missouri, said, was a branch of Mine river. The country became more level, with some small timber near the water. I now discovered that the Indians were not Osage, but a party of Sioux, of the Bois Bucil band. We encamped on the branch, and on rich land. On the 27th, we continued down the stream until we came to a small path, where the land was covered with high grass and weeds. We encamped at the mouth of the stream. On the 28th, we crossed the stream, and proceeded a west course to Mine river, and crossing the river, we encamped on the west side, on rich land, covered with large timber. Here ​we tarried part of the day to hunt, having no other provision than some corn, taken from the perioque. During the day the cords were taken from our arms. The guns and ammunition taken from the perioque were sufficient to furnish the Indians, so that most of them were well armed, and only a few of them made use of their bows.
On the 29th, we left Mine river, and continued a west course until we came to a large beaten path, which was the Kanzas war path to the Missouri. We continued in the path a few miles, and left it to the right. We encamped on a small run, with scarcely water sufficient to quench our thirst. Proceeding early on the 30th, we travelled through a level, rich country destitute of timber. At this time my feet, and the feet of some of my men, had become so sore as scarcely to be able to walk. Coming to a branch of the Kanzas river, we encamped. As soon as the camp was made, a keg of rum taken from the perioque was broached, and soon all the Indians, except the chief, four warriors and the four lads, were drunk. After a very noisy night, towards morning they fell a sleep. They had taken great care to secure us before they began to drink. In the hurry last evening to taste the rum, they had neglected to give us any thing to eat. This morning, (31st), our appetites were of course good, as we had not tasted any thing but water and a little spirit since the preceding morning. We therefore eat an hearty breakfast, and assisted in loading the ​horses. The Indians after they awoke were again for tasting the spirits, but this being opposed by the chief, and the horses being loaded, we proceeded. Continuing our course down a branch of the Kanzas, started a drove of buffaloe, consisting of two or three hundred. The Indians killed six, and then encamped on the branch. I expected the rum would have been broached, but their debauch the night before seemed to have satisfied them. Here they informed us, that in two days we should arrive at the camp where their women were.
November 1st, we continued down the branch. Snow fell some depth last night. Proceeded early on the 2d, and found the country somewhat hilly, but destitute of timber, except near the water. On the 3d, it rained, and we continued in the camp. Three men were sent forward to notify the band of our approach. Towards noon the weather cleared up, and we proceeded about six miles, and met the whole band, consisting of about two hundred men, women and children. As soon as the chief discovered the band, he set up the yell, and was answered by the band, which formed two lines, opening to the right and left, and we were led between them. Some of the children shewed a {SIC|dispositon|disposition}} to insult us, but were prevented by the men. The whole proceeded to the encampments, where the tents were ail standing in two rows, facing each other. Under different circumstances I should have been ​pleased with the appearance. But at this time my mind was occupied with anxiety about my fate, and that of my companions, expecting to be tomehawked or burned. On our arrival we were taken to the centre of the encampment, where the two chief tents were situated, and my self and companions put into the tents belonging to the chief who had taken us. The goods were unloaded and distributed among the Indians. While this was doing, a Frenchman came into the tent and spoke to me, which much revived my spirits. As soon as he had learned that we were all Frenchmen, he left us; but soon returned with the consoling news that we should be well treated. The chief soon after came in, ordered us unbound, and that some meat should be given us to eat. His squaws were now bringing in his share of the goods. The chief seated himself, and then the other chief and the warriors came in, and after lighting their pipes, entered into a long conversation, in the Sioux tongue, with the Fenchman. As soon as the conversation ended, my men were distributed among the warriors, and I was retained by the chief who took me. The name of the Frenchman, who resided with this people, was Pardo. He informed me no further injury was intended me, or my men. He also informed me that this was a party that went in pursuit of some Osage Indians, who, a short time before, had killed some of their band, and that their meeting with me was accidental; but suspecting me to be ​taking goods and arms to the Osage Indians, their enemies, they took me. In the evening the rum was again broached. Two kegs of high proof spirits had been taken from the perioque, which contained about twelve gallons each. I was directed not to leave the tent.
Early in the morning of the 4th, I went out and found all still. At the farther part of the encampment, where the liquor was drank, I saw the horrid effects of their last night's debauch. The wood, weeds, and almost every thing, was covered with blood. While I was viewing the scene, an Indian came to me, and bid me begone. I therefore immediately returned to the tent. Soon after Mr. Pardo came in and told me the Indians had been very drunk, and had fought with their knives. Three of them were badly wounded, and one very dangerously. I was permitted to take several small articles from the chief's share of the goods, among which were my papers, a razor and a lappo coat. These I procured through the influence of Mr. Pardo. He informed me that in a few days the band would go to the Ricarus village, where more of the band were. This camp in which we now were, was situated on a lage fork of the Kanzas, on the edge of a prairie. The tents were made of buffaloe skins dressed, and painted with a variety of rude figures, which at a distance made a handsome appearance. Each tent was set up in form of a cone, by means of a pole about twelve feet long, with the skins tied ​round it, at the top, and spread out at the bottom. The doors of the tents were made facing each other, before which they made a fire, and some times one in the tent. It was several days before the wounded Indians could be moved, and during our stay the Indians killed a deer, which is called the long tailed deer. It was larger than the red deer, of a darker colour, and with a white belly. Its horns are short, small and somewhat flat; its tail nearly eighteen inches long. They are said to be plenty in these plains.
The wounded Indians having so far recovered as to be able to be transported, on the 12th, we prepared for our departure, and removed a few miles. The Indians now treated me with a much greater degree of hospitality, than, from their former conduct, I had any reason to expect. On the 13th, we continued our course to the Kanzas river. This is a handsome stream, about twice as wide as the Osage, and flows through a rich country, but mostly destitute of timber, except on the water courses. We crossed it about forty miles from the mouth. The Kanzas nation of Indians reside near its head waters. On the 14th, continued a northwest course in a well beaten path, and the country somewhat hilly. The 15th, crossed a small stream of water running to the northwest, the land hilly, without timber. From this time to the 20th, very little difference in the appearance of the country. On the 20th, came to a branch of the river La ​Plate. The land now became rich and level, with wood near the water. Here the Indians separated, and about one hundred and fifty directed their course towards the Missouri, with whom all my men were taken. Mr. Pardo, myself, the chief who took me, and the rest of the Indians, continued our course towards the Ricaras village.
On the 24th, came to the River La Plate. This is a rapid stream, not less than three forths of a mile in width. It comes from a great distance from towards the south. The Panis, Ottoes, Missouri and Wolf Indians, live on the waters of this river, and are all at war with the Sioux. On the 25th, we crossed the river with great difficulty and danger, owing to the running of the ice.
On the 26th, some of the squaws made themselves carriages, to transport their baggage, by lashing three or four bars to the ends of two slim poles, and yoking a dog to the poles. A dog, in this manner, will draw about seventy pounds. The snow was now about eight inches deep. We continued our course on the 27th, northwesterly. Here the country became more broken, ascending into ridges. There were a considerable number of elk, buffaloe, cabree or antelope, and deer, and very little timber to be seen on these ridges.
Nothing material occurred until the 2d day of December, when we came to the Missouri, ​and crossed it near the mouth of the Little Pioux. We continued our course on the north side of the Missouri, often near it, until we arrived at the lodges, on the Sioux river, which was on the 8th, where we prepared to spend the remainder of the winter. It was found that several of the Indians had got frozen. They were very slightly clothed, having nothing more than a buffaloe robe, or a deer, or cabree skin, thrown over their shoulders, with only leggins, their moccasons being worn out. The weather was now very severe, and the lodges illy calculated to shelter us from it. We covered and patched them up, as well as we could, with dry grass and willow branches. In the centre an opening was made, ten feet in length, and eighteen inches in width, for the purposes of letting out the smoke, and leting in the light. The doors were made close with buffaloe skins. During the night, the horses are sheltered under the same cover with the people, being only separated by a pole. They are fed in the night on willow and button wood branches, and in the day time are turned out to graze on whatever they can find to eat.
These Indians are the dirtiest creatures on earth. They bring their water for themselves and their horses, in the paunches of the deer and cabree, which are never cleansed more than what is done by constant use. Their meat is cooked in the most filthy manner. When they boil it, they continue the boiling until it can be eaten ​with a spoon, throwing in a handful of corn, if they have it, with a small quantity of bear's oil; but make use of no seasoning of any kind. When it is ready to eat, the whole company, with ten or fifteen dogs, gather round it, and each one strives to get his share. They have no set times for their meals, but it seems to depend on the calls of hunger, and a disposition to prepare the food.
An animal is found in these plains, called Ie prairie chein, or prairie dog. It is smaller than the grey fox, and formed much like the dog. Its ears are pointed and stand erect, and the whole head very much resembles the dog. Its tail is long, slim, and of a dun colour. It digs holes and burrows in a light, loamy soil, and in the same holes, a small speckled snake takes shelter, which the Indians call the dog's guard. The Indians have many superstitious notions respecting these dogs. The Ay-oo-wars, or Nespeirce nation have a tradition that the human race sprang from this dog and the beaver. All other nations hold them in great veneration. A kind of deer were frequently killed here, called mule deer. It is smaller and of a darker colour than the red deer, having large, branched horns. The ears are very large; the tail about five inches long, with short dark hair, and at the end, a tuft composed of long, black hair. A species of the badger, called prarow, inhabits these plains. Its head much resembles the dog; legs short and ​very thick in proportion to its body, armed with long, sharp claws, well adapted to digging. The size of the body somewhat exceeds the ground hog; hair of a dark brown colour, and tail, bushy, resembling that of the ground hog. It burrows and lodges in the ground.
In the latter part of winter we were much distressed for food. Hunting became bad, and game scarce. We had often nothing more than one poor dog boiled, to feed twenty for a day, and sometimes for a much longer space of time. The Indians are fond of dog's flesh, and at their feasts use no other kind of meat. During the winter, a few fish were taken in the river. These were principally the cat fish.
To my great satisfaction, on the 20th of March, 1802, we left this camp of filth and misery, where we had remained from the 8th of December, and proceeded towards the Ricaras, or Rus, as the traders call them. Some of the Indians had prepared themselves sleighs to ride in, which were made in the following manner. A slender frame was made of small sticks, woven together, about three feet in length, and the sides about eight inches high. Over this frame, deer or cabree skins were drawn tight, and came over the upper part, forward, about eighteen inches. It was then placed on two runners, made of bent poles, to the end of which was fastened two slim poles for shafts. The whole was secured together by buffaloe cords. Two dogs were then yoked ​to the shafts, one before the other, and the rider places himself in the sleigh, with his feet under the covered part. He then guides the foremost dog by a line fastened round his neck, and in this manner the dogs will draw him with great ease. We arrived on the banks of the Missouri, near the salt springs, on the 23d, and being unable to cross the river on account of the ice, which began to break up, we continued up the river to where the ice remained firm, and well secured by a sand bar in the middle of the river. Here we crossed, and proceeded up to White river, about twenty miles, where we arrived on the 27th, and encamped. On the 29th, we removed up the White river, sixteen miles, to hunt. The snow now began to disappear, and the plains were covered with game. Here no timber was to be seen except on the water courses, where a few willows, elm, and button wood grew, but the appearance of the soil was rich. A small party of Rus, joined us at this camp, and on the 6th of April, we crossed White river, which is about one hundred and fifty yards wide, and continued our journey towards the Rus village. On the 9th, we encamped on Tyler's creek; and on the 12th, we arrived opposite Tuton river. Here we left the Missouri, and proceeded a west course to the River Chein, or Dog river. On this route we travelled through a broken country, destitute of wood, and badly watered. We arrived at the Chein river on the 14th,and immediately crossed it ​in buffaloe canoes. The river is nearly half a mile wide, and as the Indians informed me, flows through a plain, level country, for several hundreds of miles, mostly destitute of timber. On the head waters riside several tribes of Indians, with which the Sioux are at war. The most powerful of these tribes are the Chein, or Dog Indians. There are also the Gens-di-rach, or Kananawesh, the Kites and Dotame, besides bands of the Mahas, Pancars, and Kataka. We met with a camp of the Rus Indians, who were hunting, and continued here until the 18th, when they joined us, and we proceeded to the villages about sixty miles, travelling through a country destitute of timber, and interspersed with large hills. On the 22d, arrived at the lower village and joined several camps of Sioux and Dog Indians. The Ricaras or Rus, have three villages, situated on the south bank of the Missouri, in the great bend of the river. The lower village is on a large bottom, covered with cotton wood, and contains about fifty huts. These huts were built in a different manner, and were more comfortable habitations, than any Indian huts I had before seen. To build their huts, %hey cut four forked posts, which are set up fifteen feet high. Two of these posts stand eighteen inches apart, and two stand at the distance of ten feet from the other two posts, and ten feet from each other, on which two ridge poles are placed. Around these posts they erect sixteen forked posts more, ​six feet high, which are so placed as to form a circular figure, eighteen feet in diameter. On the front side two more posts, six feet long, are set up, ten feet from the building, and four feet apart. Short poles are then laid round on these sixteen forks, and on the forks of the two posts which project in front, to connect them with the building. Stakes are then placed in a reclining position, so as to lean against the poles which are placed on the six feet posts, and stand eight or nine inches apart. At the upper end of these stakes, poles are fastened, so that the other end rests upon the ridge poles. When the frame is thus completed, the whole is covered with willow and cotton wood branches, except an opening between the ridge poles, for the smoke to pass, and the space in the front of the projection, which is left for a door way. Over the branches is laid a covering of long grass, and over the grass, a coat of clay mortar.
These huts are placed with great regularity, in two straight rows. The doors in each row front those in the opposite row, so that the huts stand facing each other, with a space of twelve feet between the doors. The town is picketed with pickets, twelve feet high, and set very close, to prevent firing between them. There is one gate way, which is shut at night.
These people are much more cleanly in their persons, dress, and food, than the Sioux. They are also of a lighter complexion, which is of a ​bright copper colour, with aquiline noses and black, lively eyes. The women have high cheek bones, oval faces, and regular features. Both men and women are of a social, sprightly make. The men are tall and well formed, and the women, though smaller, are equally well shaped, and rather handsome, than otherwise. Their dress consists of a shift made of dressed deer skins, and reaches from the chin, below the knee, to the middle of the leg, with short sleeves. It is secured round the waist by a belt of wampum. They wear moccasons and leggins, and in the winter a buffaloe robe, thrown over their shoulders. The men wear a wide strip of leather, about three feet long, which they draw between fheir legs, and fasten it around the middle by a belt. They have long leggins and moccasons, and a buffaloe robe over their shoulders.
These Indians raise corn, beans, melons, pumpkins and tobacco. Their tobacco differs from that which is raised by white people. It has a smaller stalk, that grows about eighteen inches high, with long, narrow leaves, and is only used for smoking. The Indians never chew nor snuff tobacco. They carry on, at these villages, a considerable commerce with these productions; having much more than they want for their own consumption. It is a barter trade with neighbouring nations, who never cultivate the ground, for such articles of European goods, as they have procured at the British establishments, ​at the falls of Saint Anthony, or from traders: and also for horses, mules, dried meat, and other articles. Their principal customers are the Sioux, the Chein Indians, Watapahatoes, Gens-dis-vatch, Kite, and Dotame, the most of whom, except the Sioux, reside on the river Chein. This nation was once very numerous, and consisted of ten tribes of the Panis, who reside on the river La Plate, and whose tongue they speak in somewhat of different accent. They have now not much over five hundred warriors; having been reduced from five thousand warriors, to their present number, in less than thirty years, by the small pox and attacks of their enemies; particularly by the Sioux, who have got them so far under subjection, that they dare not offend them, and are frequently robbed, plundered, and even murdered, without daring to resent it. This information was given me by an old chief of the lower villages.
Above the Sioux river, and between that and the River Sacque, is a small hill, destitute of timber, which the natives say is inhabited by spirits, in shape of human beings, of a very diminutive size, not being, according to their description, more than six or eight inches high. Respecting these bodily spirits they have a number of ridiculous fancies. An old chief told me, with great gravity, that the occasion of their coming and living on this hill, was, because the Indians, a great many winters ago, were so wicked ​and foolish, as to strive to kill all the animals made for their use. The Great Spirit saw them from above, and was so angry with them that he sent these little beings, which the Indians call Wakons, to drive all the animals out of the country, which they did, and many of the Indians starved for want of food. But after much entreaty and many sacrifices, the anger of the Great Spirit was appeased, and he permitted the animals to return; but directed the Wakons to reside on this hill, to watch the conduct of the Indians, and should they again be so wicked, they are to drive all the animals off, never to return. This impression has had an excellent effect on the natives, as it prevents causeless waste of what is so necessary for their subsistence. They pretend often to see these little beings on, and about the hill, as they are passing, but no consideration would induce an Indian to set his foot on this holy ground.
The lower village, on the 20th of May, held their great feast. Two drays previous notice was given by their principal chiefs. There being a number of camps of different tribes, they were all invited to join, and in the morning of the festival, were dressed out in their best attire, and made no indifferent appearance. Their faces were daubed with a variety of paints. Their ears, noses and hair, were full of silver rings, and of silver and glass trinkets; with silver breast plates; and a multitude of beads, hanging round their necks. Their hair was also filled with the ​feathers of the eagle, and other large birds. Bandayes full of brooches were tied round their foreheads. Their clothes neatly worked with porcupine quills and beads, and large wampum belts around the middle. Their moccasons and leggins strung with bits of brass and beads, worked full of porcupine quills and horse hair dyed red. In this finical, gaudy dress, they all assembled in a place prepared for the purpose, near the village, in the fore part of the day. The men only partake of the feast, but the women are distant spectators; for they are never suffered to eat with the men, neither at feasts, nor in their own families, when strangers are present. This, however, does not prevent them from decorating themselves for the occasion. After all had assembled, the head chief of the village addressed the company in an impressive speech, in which he informed them, that it had been a practice, time immemorial, to celebrate the return of the spring, by a feast to the Great Spirit. He recommended to them peaceable and friendly behaviour, and told them, that as the Great Spirit had given them an unclouded sky, he was well pleased with their intention, and that each one should be careful not to offend him by improper conduct. After the address, the company were seated, and the head chief opened his medicine bag, from which he drew the sacred stem or pipe. This he placed on the forked sticks set in the ground before him for the purpose. Fire was then brought, and he ​lighted the pipe, and blowed the smoke to the east, south, west, and north; after which he handed the pipe to the chief next to him, on the right, who smoked two or three whiffs and passed it to the next, and so on, until it had gone round the company.
The provisions were now brought forward, composed entirely of dog's flesh, and placed before the great chief, and each one sent his dish to him, in turn; for before they came, every one took care to provide a dish for himself. Some of the youth attended as waiters to the company. The greatest order and regularity was observed during the feast. Each one considered himself obliged to eat all that was sent him; but at such feasts it is seldom more than they can devour in a few minutes. As soon as the feast was ended, fire was brought, and the whole commenced smoking, which was continued for about an hour. The smoking then ceased and the dance commenced. Their music consisted of beating on buffaloe skins, shaking dried prarow and marten skins, tied up, in a form to contain small stones, and beating on a kind of drum, made by stretching a skin, dressed like parchment, over the end of a hollow log about four feet long, which is joined with the singing of the company. Their songs are a rehearsal of the exploits of themselves and their ancestors, and is accompanied with a variety of antic gestures. In all their movements they keep exact time; dance in a circle around a ​fire, never taking hold of hands, nor touching one another, unless by accident. The dance continued until near morning. When the dance was closed, all retired to their respective quarters, perfectly quiet and peaceable. Although the company consisted of not less than a thousand people, of different nations, and some of whom were mortal enemies to others, there was not the least confusion heard during the day or night.
The Indians are extravagantly fond of gambling, and spend most of their leisure hours in it. The game they appear most attached to is played with eight bones, of the size of a man's finger, of an oval form, three fourths of an inch long, with four square sides, two of which are coloured black and red. They are placed on wooden trenchers, or oval platters. From this dish the bones are tossed into the air, and then caught in the dish. They win or lose according to the number of a certain colour, previously agreed upon, being uppermost, until the game is finished, which is always forty-five. Two bands or parties will play at this game, the loser rising and letting one of his party take his place, until the whole band has had a part in the game. They often play for all the property they possess, and after losing that, set up their wives and children, for they are considered the men's property, as much as their arms, or any thing they possess. Another game is played by means of small sticks, five inches long, of the size of a goose quill, neatly ​polished and marked with red and black lines. Forty of these sticks are divided between the two persons who play. One wraps up a part of his sticks in grass, the other matches a part of his to them. If they agree in number or colour of the lines, the one that matches wins five, or otherwise loses the same number. The game is always forty.
On the 18th of May, several parties of Indians arrived from the river Chein, for the purpose of trading, consisting of Dog Indians, Gens-dis-valch, Kaewas, and Kales. A trader likewise came in from the Assinniboin river. They all assembled at the village, at the mouth of the Warriuna river, and our camp moved up to the same village. The trader soon procured what furs of any value they had to dispose of, and departed. Mr. Pardo, having procured a supply of ammunition, proposed to ascend the Missouri, on a hunting expedition with a party of Grossventres, with whom he was connected by marriage. His wife was the daughter of the chief of this nation. He applied to the chief of our camp, to whom I belonged, whose name is Man-di-tongue-go, for liberty for me to accompany him. The chief consented that I should go with him, on condition that I should give him a part of the skins I procured, and lent me an old musket. There were three of ​the Sioux, one of whom was his relation, who agreed to go with us.
We started on the 27th of May, crossed Missouri, and arrived the same evening at the upper village. This village is situated on an Island, in the Missouri, and is fortified in the same manner as the lower village, containing about sixty huts. Our party consisted of twenty-seven men, six women, and four children; none of the Gross-Ventres having their families with them. The next morning we proceeded, and soon left the Missouri, travelling a northwest course, in a well beaten path. The land on each side of us ascended into high ridges. On the northern side of them, was considerable timber, mostly cedar, and the land poor. The path continued up the vally, but often passing over low ridges. On the 29th, we struck a branch of the stream called by the traders, Ball river. We followed this branch to its mouth. Here we crossed Ball river. We found some pleasant intervals on this river, but most of the land is poor, dry ridges, with very little timber. Our company soon took a course more northwardly, until we came to the mouth of Chuss-chu river. Here we came again to the banks of the Missouri, and met a party of Mandans, hunting buffaloe. The principal game found here is the buffaloe, cabree, or antelope, black tailed deer, and elk. We now frequently passed camps of Mandans, and on the 5th of June, arrived at the lower Mandan village. This ​village, which is above the great bend of the Missouri, is situated on a pleasant interval, covered with cotton wood and cedar. Is built and fortified in the same manner as those of the Rus.
Here a sight, new to me, and exceedingly disagreeable, arrested my attention as soon as I came in view of the village. This was their manner of depositing the bodies of the dead. Immediately after my arrival I had an opportunity of witnessing the funeral ceremonies practised by these people, which was in the following manner. A dead body was brought out of a hut, and laid on the ground before it, dressed in its best apparel, and wrapped in a buffaloe robe. The relations and principal part of the people in the village, assembled around it. A fire was then made, and the sacred stem, or pipe, was brought and lighted. The deceased having been a warrior, an eulogy of considerable length was pronounced by his brother, in which he impressed on their minds, the great importance which the deceased man had been to their nation; rehearsed his war exploits, and concluded by urging all to follow his example, and to become of equal usefulness to their tribe. Then they would be sure of following and becoming companions of him, and all the other great warriors, which had died before, in the world of spirits. After this address was closed, provisions were brought out, consisting of boiled dog's flesh, of which the company just ​tasted, and then a bowl full of it was presented to the dead man. He was then taken up by four men and carried outside of the village, just into the edge of the woods, and placed on a stage which had been previously erected, about ten feet high. The bowl of food was brought and set by his head, and his arms and accoutrements laid by his side. In this manner their dead are deposited, and are never buried. The wife and relations of the deceased made the most violent and dreadful howlings, tearing their hair, and appearing to be in the deepest anguish, under the loss they had sustained.
The Mandans and Gross-Ventres are of the lightest complexion, and largest Indians on the Missouri. Their hair inclines to a chesnut colour, and in some instances has a slight curl; it is never so lank and coarse as most other Indians. Their eyes are full and lively, their cheek bones rather high, and their countenances open and agreeable. The Gross-Ventres have more of a fierce, savage look, than the Mandans who are courteous, and sociable in their behaviour. They are neat in their dress, which is similar to that of the Rus, excepting that they decorate it with white rabbit, and white ermine skins. Many of their lodges, or huts, are decorated in a beautiful manner; having the inside lined with the richest furs, such as the lynx, beaver, otter, white rabbit, martin, fox, mountain cat, and white ermine, sewed together like patch work, which gives them a rich ​and beautiful appearance. The lodge of the head chief was sixty feet in diameter, elegantly lined with furs, and the seats, which are also used as beds, were covered with the grizzly bear and buffaloe skins. These people keep their lodges and buildings in a state of great neatness. They cultivate the same kind of produce with the Rus, and carry on a trade with the roving Indians, who occasionally visit them. The Mandans and Gross-Ventres live in great friendship, although they speak different languages; and it is necessary they should, for their villages are not more than six miles apart. The Mandans speak the same tongue of the Osage, but have a different accent, and dialect. They were once a numerous, warlike people, but have been reduced by the small pox, and by their enemies, the Sioux, to less than four hundred warriors.
On the the 13th, we left the Mandans, and arrived at the Gross-Ventres village, which is on the lower side of Batteau river, and is called the Meniture village. Another village, called Meni-tar-u-miti-ha-tah, is situated on the upper side of Batteau river. These villages are larger than the Mandans, built in the same manner, and containing about six hundred warriors, and about twenty-five hundred inhabitants. They were formerly more numerous, but the small pox has made its ravages among them. These people deposit their dead in the same manner as the Mandans, but at a greater distance from their ​villages. Soon after our arrival, a young chief, who accompanied us, found a young woman, with whom he contracted matrimony, which afforded an opportunity to witness their marriage ceremonies. Proclamation was made, by one of the relations, that on the next day, in the morning, the marriage would be celebrated. The next morning the bride was dressed in all her finery, and the groom in his richest attire. The company assembled at her father's lodge, where the chief of the village attended. He informed the company, that the young man, calling him by name, intended to take the girl, calling her by name, to be his wife. He then asked each of them if that were their intention, which each of them answered in the affirmative. The chief then handed them a small rod, which was broken between them. The groom then broke his part into a number of small pieces, and handed them to the men who stood near to him. The bride did the same with her part of the rod, which consumated the marriage. Fire was then brought, and the sacred pipe was lighted. After all the men had smoked in it, the dance commenced, which was continued for several hours. As soon as it was finished, the groom took his bride to his lodge to live with him.
These people entertain ideas of chastity very different from any civilized nation. If a stranger comes to reside with them in their cabins a for several days, he is presented with the wife or a ​daughter to be his bed-fellow, during his stay. If a girl proves with child, it has no influence to prevent her marriage, and the child is adopted by her husband, and brought up as his own. Their hospitality probably exceeds that of any other people. They share the last mouth full of provisions chearfully, with the greatest stranger, and strive to make him as happy and contented as possible.
Our party now prepared to set out for the summer and fall hunt, and it was determined to go to the River Jaun or Yellow Stone, and to the Rocky mountain. All things being prepared to set off, the 2d of July was assigned, as is usual among these people, for a day of feasting. The feast was prepared, and the ceremonies conducted in the same manner, as at the Rus village, which has been described. After the smoking rite was finished, the head chief of the village addressed us. He commended us to the care of the Great Spirit, and all the good subordinate spirits, wishing us a bright sun and clear sky, that we might overcome any enemy we might meet; that the evil spirits would not spread sickness among us, and that all of us, in due season, should return to the village, loaded with meat and skins. The day was closed with feasting and dancing.
The Jaun is a noble stream, somewhat rapid, the bottom sandy, and the water clear; excepting when rain falls, and then it becomes immediately thick from the earth that is washed into it from the barren hills. Many of these hills are so washed, and become so steep, that no animal can ascend them, except the cabree and mountain ram, or rocky mountain sheep. The grizzly or white bear, is plenty in this country, and often attacks the natives. We continued at this camp until the 29th, and then proceeded up Crooked river, and encamped near the first ridge of mountains. Here we killed several of these rocky mountain sheep. The male is considerably larger than the female, and has much longer horns. The horns of a male which we killed, measured three feet in length, and five inches diameter, at his head. This animal is taller than a deer, and has a larger body. It is covered with soft hair of a dun colour, gradually becoming of a lighter colour towards the belly, which is entirely white. Its horns are shaped, in every respect, like the horns of rams, of the common sheep, bending backwards, but have many rough knobs. Its tail resembles that of the red deer. The legs and feet resemble the sheep, but the hoofs some what longer. It is swift and climbs the clifts of ​rocks with so much agility and ease, that no other animal can follow it; and by this means it escapes the wolves. Its flesh is esteemed equal to that of the deer.
On the 3d of August, we moved up into the mountains and met with a camp of Gens-de-panse or the Paunched Indians. We encamped with them for the night, and on the 4th, about noon, we had like to have been defeated, by a monstrous white bear. Four or five of the men were ahead, and turning the point of a steep hill, they met a white bear, and fired upon him, but only wounded him. He immediately turned upon them, and they retreated. At the point of the hill they met the rest of the party, the bear pursuing close to their heels, which threw the whole party into confusion. Not being room for us to escape, the bear was in a moment in the midst of us. As one man turned and attempted to run, the bear seized his buffaloe robe, and had not the fastening given way, would have drawn him under his paws. While he was spending his rage on the robe, one of the men shot him dead on the spot. As soon as he fell, the whole party made the air ring with their shouts. This bear was much larger than the black bear. The meat only would have weighed more than four hundred pounds. The mountains here are steep, and some of their points and sides are covered with a small growth, mostly of the spruce kind. The stream we Were ascending is winding, interrupted, and full of rapids, ​but it is about one hundred yards wide. We encamped in a large interval, at the mouth of a small stream, and continued here until the 12th, The fur animals had now just done shedding, so that we only hunted the buffaloe, cabree, and mountain sheep. A party was sent to gain the summit of a ridge, so as to pass over to the other side, while the rest of us crawled up, surrounding them on every side, excepting towards the river. As soon as the signal was given, by those who had ascended and gained the opposite side, we all raised a sudden yell, and sprang out of the grass, and the affrighted animals instantly fled from us, pitched over the precipice, and were dashed against the stones, at the bottom, where we killed sixty-one. Some of them fell nearly two hundred feet; but some of them, which were near the bottom, made their escape. It took us several days to dress and cure the meat. The method in which these people cure their meat is to cut it into thin slices, and dry it by the heat of the sun, or a slow fire. They use no salt to preserve it. Meat will continue in this state, if well dried, for a longtime. We killed a wildcat, which resembled the domestic cat, and was of about the same size. It was of a sallow colour, and had a tail nearly of the length of the body. This little animal is very fierce, and often kills cabree and sheep, by jumping on their necks, and eating away the sinews and arteries until they fall, and then sucks the blood. On the 25th, we proceeded up, ​eighteen miles, to the mouth of a large fork of the river, which comes from the north, and encamped on a plain. At this encampment, the snow-topped mountains appeared to be at no great distance. Here we found beaver in plenty; and as the fur had become good, we began to trap them. One of the Indians killed a beautiful wild cat, about one half larger than the house cat. Its fur was long and exceedingly fine, covered with black and white spots on a bright yellow ground. Its belly was pale yellow, and its tail about two inches long. It is the richest looking skin I ever saw. On the 28th, we killed two grizzly bears. In the evening we had a severe storm of hail, and the hail stones which fell were larger than musket balls. Here the mountain sheep are plenty, but they keep mostly on high ridges and the tops of the inaccessible mountains. On the 30th, moved further up the river, and caught a number of the lynx, marten and ermine. The ermine is a beautiful little animal, as white as milk, except the tip of the tail, which is of a jet black. On the 2d of September, had a heavy shower of snow, after which we returned to our encampment of the 28th of August. We continued trapping here until the 12th, when we crossed the river, took a branch which comes from the southward, and followed it up about six miles, where we encamped in a small bottom. Here we found fur plenty, and caught a number of beaver, otter, marten, ermine, and two spotted wild cats. ​Buffaloe were plenty, but as we had secured as much meat as we could carry, we seldom troubled them. On the 16th, we proceeded about ten miles further, and continued here until the 24th, when having loaded our horses, we crossed over a mountain, and encamped on a branch of Big-horn river. The weather was cold, and frequent showers of snow made the travelling difficult. Here the stream was rapid, about thirty yards wide, and winding its way amongst the steep mountains. We were however obliged frequently to cross it ourselves, with our horses loaded with as much as they could carry. On the 28th, we came to a camp of the Crow Indians, where we rested until the 30th, when we continued our course down the river.
ther features regular and handsome. The men had a bone passed through the gristle of the nose, which separates the nostril, that extended the width of the face. All the hair on their heads was pulled out, except a lock on the crown, which was left to grow its full length. This tuft of hair was divided into two parts, tied up in a short cue, and fell over each ear. Their dress consisted of nothing more than leggins and moccasons, ​excepting a young chief, who had a belt of white ermine skins round his middle, and a necklace of white bear's claws around his neck. All the men were tattooed on the breast, with two long, and one short line, drawn horizontally, but on no other part of the body. The women wear their hair tied up in two clubs, which hang over each ear, and a long braid down the back. They were not tattooed, nor do they wear any ornaments, except beads of their own make, formed out of sea shells, about the size of a barberry. Their dress consisted of a buffaloe robe, or a mountain sheep skin, thrown over their shoulders, ground hog skins sewed together, with the tails hanging out on the fur side, fastened round their middle with a belt of raw hide.
On the 13th, a large party of Snake Indians arrived. This nation resides principally on the head waters of the Big-horn river, and in the most inaccessible parts of the rocky mountains, where they have frequently to hide in caverns from their enemies. Owing to their defenceless situation, they become an easy conquest to any nation disposed to attack them; and they are frequently attacked for no other reason, than the pleasure of killing them. Their appearance bespoke their distressed situation to which they are reduced. The complexion of these Indians is dark, but their features are regular, although their visage is thin, and their eyes pretty much sunk into their heads. Their bodies are frequently ​crooked, a thing very rarely to be seen among Indians; of a small size, thin and slender. Both men and women have their hair hanging loose on their heads, and only cut short over their eves. Their dress consists only of mountain sheep, cabree or deer skins, thrown over their shoulders. The women sometimes wore a girdle of loose bark, tied round their middle, which was but an indifferent covering. Their ornaments consisted of white bear's claws, and a few beads. The men were armed with the Casoe-tite, or war club, a target or shield made of raw buffaloe hides, a dagger made of bone, ten inches long, and a small bow. We were the first white people which either they, or the Flat-heads had ever seen. The Fiat-heads, likewise, arm themselves with the war club, in which a bone is fastened that projects three inches, a bone dagger, and sometimes one made of iron, which they work out themselves, ten inches long, and three wide, at the handle; a spear pointed with bone or iron, and when they cross the mountains to hunt the buffaloe, they carry a bow with them. The buffaloe is not found on the west side of the Rocky mountains, and there these people subsist on fish and roots.
Our horses arrived on the 15th, and on the 16th, we embarked, to ascend the Jaun river. On the 17th, came to a camp of the Paunch Indians, where we halted for the horses. These, Indians reside mostly towards the head waters of the river Jaun, and the branches of the Big-horn.
​They are a large, well looking people, somewhat inclined to corpulency. From this circumstance they have acquired the name of Gens-de-Panse, but they call themselves All-ah-kaa-wiah. They speak a different language from the Gross-Ventres. Their arms consist of bows and spears, with buffaloe skin targets, much larger than those made use of by the Snake Indians, and so thick and firm that an arrow will not pierce them. They use a short bone dagger, and the war club. A few cf them had guns, but no ammunition. Many of the Crow Indians and Gross-Ventres are armed in the same manner.
On the 18th, our horses arrived, and we proceeded, passing many camps of Indians, and halted at night on an island, where we killed a large white bear. The river is rapid but has no obstruction. The ice now began to float, which rendered our navigation dangerous in such slight vessels. Here the Rocky mountains may be seen at a distance to the westward; but the land near the river is mostly level, and though destitute of timber, is apparently of a good soil. The general course of the river is to the north, and sometimes west of north. On the 22d, we arrived at the mouth of a large branch which comes from the southeast, and encamped to wait for the horses. About six miles up this branch, a party of Crow Indians were encamped, and intended to spend the winter. On the 25th, the horses arrived, and as the ice ran thick, took out our boats, and ​camped for the winter. Our encampment was in a grove of cotton wood, and willows, and we formed as comfortable huts as possible. Mr. Pardo and myself built one for our own accommodation, with one adjoining for our horses.
On the 3d of November, the buffaloes descended from the mountains in vast droves. The plains were covered with them and with elk. The Indians hunt the buffaloe on horse back, with a bow and a short spear. They ride as near as possible to the gang, and discharge their arrows, while the animals are fighting their dogs. A wounded buffaloe, if he does not fall, frequently turns upon the hunter, who depends upon the dexterity of his horse, which has been v trained up to the business, for his escape. He then discharges more arrows, and dispatches the animal with his spear. These hunts are attended with considerable danger, and sometimes with the loss of both horse and rider. The country in which we were encamped is level to the south, but to the north and west the mountains are in sight, with steep ridges, approaching the river; and to the east is a large mountain, entirely insulated from the Rocky mountains, called the Turtle. This mountain, with the country round it, is covered with timber. Large bands of Indians encamp near it, during the winter for the conveniency of wood. In some places, wood is so scarce that they perish with cold, for want of it.
​The extensive country on the Jaun, or Yellow river, is exceedingly fertile. Towards its head waters the land is covered with large timber. Grapes grow in great abundance wherever any trees or brush are to be found. There are vast thickets of plumbs, cherries, and crab apples. The country is mostly level to the foot of the Black mountains, which the Indians say, are completely separated from Rocky mountains. A large river passes between them, which runs to the southward. The range of the Black mountains is from east to west, but the Rocky mountains extend from north to south. The former are about four hundred miles south of our winter encampment, as the Indians compute the distance. They represent the country as fertile beyond description, and as inhabited by numerous bands of Indians. The buffaloe, elk, cabree, deer, black and white bears, are found there, in vast multitudes. The Manclarie Indians are often at war with a nation, which resides in the Black mountains, called, J-a-kar-tha, who speak the same tongue with the Snake Indians or the Aliatans of the Rocky mountains. This nation has also obtained the nick name of Snake Indians, from the same circumstance; that is, .because they hide themselves in caverns and among the rocks, to conceal themselves from their enemies, from whence they are dragged out and killed like snakes. They are also held in great contempt by other nations, who consider them to be too mean to have existence.
​The Indians say, that vast numbers of horses and mules abound in, and about the Black mountains . Towards the mouth of the River Jaun, the country is open, level, with extensive prairies, or natural meadows, covered with high grass, but no wood, excepting cotton wood, willows, and a few cedars. On the north side of the Missouri, near the Rocky mountains, resides a nation of Indians, who are numerous, and who are the inveterate enemies of the Gross-Ventres and Crow Indians, and frequently fall on their hunting parties. Their are called Black-foot Indians. I saw one of this nation, who was a prisoner taken by the Crow Indians. He was a large, well made, and his complexion as light as the Gross-Ventres. They are a roving nation, have no villages, nor do they raise any kind of produce.
The weather becoming mild, on the 12th of March, 1803, we moved up the river on which we had encamped, called by the Indians Nan-tu-se-car, or Stillwater river, which is about sixty yards wide. On the 15th, came to salt springs, and boiled some of the water. On the 18th, procured a small quantity of salt, which, to me, was a great relief, as I had lost my appetite for want of it; not having tasted any for more than three months. On the 19th, moved our encampment on to high land, the Salt springs being in a low interval, to avoid the water produced by the melting of the snow. Here the Turtle mountain appeared at a great distance, in a southeast ​direction. On the 24th, the snow fell about a foot deep. We proceeded in a northerly direction, and encamped, at night, on a small stream, and continued to the 30th, owing to the fleet and rain. On the 30th, we continued our course, in the same direction, through a plain country, in a well beaten path, and on the 4th of April, came to a branch of the Still-water river, where we encamped to hunt. On the 8th, caught several beaver, otter, and white rabits, which were very numerous. On the 12th, we arrived at the river, we had ascended in July, called Road river, and on the 13th, came to the Salt springs, where we procured a small quantity more of salt. On the 18th, proceeded to the mouth of Catteau, or Knife river, where we arrived on the 24th of April. On the 25th, a great feast was made with the usual ceremonies.
We left the upper Gross-Ventres village, on the 4th of May, in company with a large number of Indians for the trading post on the Assinniboin river, distant about one hundred miles, and on the 11th, arrived at the station. I had formed a determination to leave the Indians at this place, but was prevented by the Sioux Indians, who were with us. The Sioux Indian, who was a relation to the chief, was offered a musket, knife, and hatchet, if he would let me go, but he refused, declaring that I must go with him to his uncle. The traders not being willing to offend the Indians, I was obliged to remain with them. On ​the 5th of June, I parted with Mr. Pardo and my former companions, and went with a party of Sioux, of the Tilon Okandanas band, for the heads of Saint Peter's river. The chief, Man-da-ton-que-qua, was gone with part of the Bois-bruil band. On the 15th, we came to a band of the Bois-bruil, on Saint Peter's river, but the chief was not with them. He had gone with a small party to meet a band of Yanton-ansah Sioux, who were proceeding from the falls of Saint Anthony, on the Mississippi, where they had been to procure merchandize, to trade with the other bands. The country we had lately passed through, was mostly level, swampy, and full of small lakes, covered very thick with timber, chiefly pine and spruce. On the 17th, we proceeded down the Saint Peter's, and on the 20th, came to the encampment. This body of Indians consisted of five bands; the Yanton-ansah, Wah-pa-coo-ta, Titon-bois-bruil, Titon-okan-danas, and Titon-sa-oo-nu, about four hundred warriors, and about one thousand four hundred people. On the 27th, the bands mostly separated, and the greater part returned to the Missouri, among whom was the Bois-bruil band, who took the war path. The greatest part of these Indians were well armed, and mounted on good horses, On the 12th of July, encamped at the forks of the River Sasqui, a branch of the Missouri, On the 18th, these bands separated, and we proceeded to the crossing of the three rivers, on the Missouri, above the ​mouth of White river. On the 8th of August, we arrived at the Missouri, and a party of us went down to the Salt springs, and made a quantity of salt. The water in the River Sasqui and in the Three rivers is so brackish, as to be very disagreeable to drink; and many other streams on the Missouri have a similar taste. On the 20th, we returned to the encampment, and on the 28th, I went with a party up the Middle fork of the Three rivers, to hunt. The country is considerably broken, and destitute of timber; but numerous salt licks and a plenty of game. On the 16th of September, we returned, having loaded our horses.
We remained at this encampment until the 27th, when we moved up to Teton river. I obtained liberty, on the 3d of October, to go to the Rus village. Here I spent the winter with a number of traders belonging to Saint Louis. The Sioux are enemies to the traders, who follow this employment on the Missouri. They hold them in the greatest contempt, and always rob them whenever they can get a good opportunity.
On the 12th of April, 1804, the traders left the village, and went up the River Chein, or Dog river, to trade. The chief Man-da-tonque-qua came to the village, on the 18th, and took me with him on to the Sioux river, where we arrived on the 6th of May, and continued until the 12th of June, when we removed to the River Sasqui. On the 26th of August, a report was spread ​among the Indians, that a party, an army, as they called it, of soldiers were coming up the Missouri. After dispatching messengers to all the Indians near, they hastened to the river, leaving all their women and children with a few men in the encampment. They did not permit me to go with them. On the 25th of September, a council was held on the River Sasqui, to deliberate on the object this army should have in view, and to determine what should be done. Lengthy debates took place, and being much divided in sentiment whether they should attack them, or not, they disolved the council on the 29th, without deciding what should be done. Another council was held on the 5th of November, consisting of a much larger number, when they came to a determination to invite the Rus to join them, and to attack the soldiers early in the spring. They also agreed to declare war against the Mandans and the Gross-Ventres. During the winter, large bodies of Indians assembled on the Sioux river and the River Sasqui, near to the Missouri.
In the mean time, war was declared against the soldiers and against the Mandans and Gross-Ventres. Early in the spring the spies they had ​sent out, reported that the soldiers had gone further up the river, so that on the 4th of April, 1805, our camp, with the women and children, moved on to the Missouri. Immediately after I arrived here, I was so fortunate as to become acquainted with Mr. Paintille, a Frenchman, who had long resided in the country, principally with the Titon-anah band of Sioux. We concerted a plan for making an escape down the Missouri. As he had a light canoe, we prepared ourselves to leave the Indians, and accordingly, on the night of the 26th of April, we were so happy as to make our escape from these miserable beings. In ten days we arrived at the town of Saint John's, which is the upper settlement on the Missouri river, and from thence we proceeded to the lower settlements. Here I found myself in the full enjoyment of a freedom, of which I had long been deprived; having been a prisoner more than three years and six months. During this period I had been subjected to many severe sufferings. Although I had always been well treated by the Indians, I had undergone great fatigues, and was often much distressed for provisions. Frequent exposure to wet and cold, and the inclemency of weather, brought on a rheumatism, which became so severe, as to confine me eighteen months after I had obtained my liberty.
* ↑ This name has been spelt wrong and altered, but still wrong. The true spelling is found to be Gross-Vantres, or Grossventres. Also, Assinniboin river, is the true spelling.
* ↑ The army reported to be coming up the Missouri, was doubtless, the party under the command of Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke, consisting of forty-five men, bound on a voyage of discovery to the Pacific Ocean. This corps entered the Missouri on the 14th of May, 1804, and passed the mouth of the River Sasqui, about the 28th of August.