# Voyage in Search of La Pérouse/Chapter 6

CHAP. VI.
We had now compleated a geographical discovery of great importance to navigation. It was a point of the greatest utility to know ex​actly the harbours in which ships might find shelter from the heavy gales and impetuous storms, which prevail at this extremity of New Holland. A road, which is not less than 22,000 toises in extent, in that particular situation, might present great advantages to a commercial nation. Throughout the whole road, a ship may cast anchor with the certainty of finding a good bottom, the depth being from 6 to 25 fathoms, and no danger to be dreaded. At an equal distance between its two extremities, the bottom is of coarse sand, and not so good. There is also less water, as the depth there does not exceed six fathoms. It should seem that the tide entering at once by both extremities had accumulated the sand, at the place where the opposite currents meet. A ship may, without danger, come within 100 toises of the land. The sinuosities of the land present a varied prospect, and situations truly picturesque.
The season was advanced and the thermometer had not yet been lower than 7° above 0, although we were near the 44th degree of S. lat. Impetuous winds reigned in the open sea, while in the strait, we enjoyed the greatest tranquillity. We did not expect to experience so much security near the Bay of Tempests.
Fishes which prefer tranquil waters, abound ​in this channel, and we were generally very fortunate in catching them.
Scarcely had we passed the strait, to the distance of 1,500 toises when we could no longer distinguish the opening. The depth increased, as we advanced into the open sea.
At noon, our latitude was 43° 1′ S. and our longitude 145° 19′ E.
We were not long in doubling Cape Pillar, and we immediately steered a north-east course, in order that we might explore the south-west coast of New Caledonia.
The mercury in the barometer sunk into 27 inches 8 lines, and we had a violent gale from the N.W. The motion of the ship was to me as sickening as at our departure from Brest. During our stay at Cape Diemen, I had completely forgotten my sailing habits.
On the 30th of May we had made great progress; for at noon, our latitude was 40° 55′ S. and our longitude 150° 4′ E.
The Mercury in the barometer had fallen to 27 inches 4 lines, and had not deceived us in announcing impetuous winds. We could only scud under our fore-sail, which at last we were obliged to strike, but fortunately we had the wind a-stern.
Although the thermometer was not lower than ​9° 2-10ths above 0, the cold was nevertheless great. The violent agitation of the air appeared to me the principal cause of the sensation which we experienced.
On the first of June, having arrived in latitude 37° 17′ S. and longitude 154° 5′ E., we saw a great number of speckled petrels (procellaria capensis) and many albatrosses remarkable for the red extremities of their wings.
2d. The next day many flying fishes, of the same species with those which we had so often met with elsewhere, falling on board of us, announced our arrival in parts of the sea frequented by bonitoes.
The motion of the ship, since our departure, had made me so faint, that I found myself absolutely incapable of taking the measures necessary for the preservation of the objects which I had collected in my last excursions.
3d. But this day the sea became more calm, and allowed me to enter upon that business. My specimens had suffered no damage; only I found them slightly covered with moisture.
5th. Since our departure from New Holland, we had been reduced to short allowance of water; and the heat, which now began to be very sensibly felt, rendered that privation the more painful. We were allowed but a bottle in the day; ​although our want of it increased as we approached the Torrid Zone. For this beverage we could not substitute wine, which became daily worse, and brandy, which many preferred to wine, rendered a greater quantity of water necessary. Salted provisions increased a thirst, which we had not the means of quenching, and the great quantity of sea-salt introduced into our fluids, had communicated to them a great degree of acrimony. Thus the privation of fresh water is one of the principal causes of the diseases of seamen.
Spotted petrels and many other birds which we saw on the 6th of June, in latitude 34° 47′ S., and longitude 159° 21′ E., made us suppose that we were approaching some island, still too distant to be seen.
11th. About the middle of this day, we thought we saw land at east. After steering in that direction for an hour, the phantom disappeared, and we resumed our course.
15th. We shot a man-of-war bird, which was hovering over the ship. This bird had in its bill one of the species of cuttle fish called sepia loligo. It had probably caught this mollusca, the instant before it received the fatal stroke. In the Mediterranean, I have seen this species of cuttle fish raise itself many feet above the surface of the ​water, by means of membranous expansions, situated laterally near its lower extremity: some of them even dropped on board of us.
10th. About half an hour past five in the morning, we entered the Torrid Zone, in 65° of E. longitude.
About eight we saw the Isle of Pines, which is at a little distance from the southern point of New Caledonia. It had the appearance of a peak of moderate elevation; and we soon had a view of the low lands, with which it is every where surrounded. We distinguished large trees, towards the south-east part of the island. Its position, which we determined, is in S. lat. 22° 42′, and E. long. 165° 14′, which is but 4′ less in lat. and 4′ more in long, than its position, as assigned by Captain Cook.
About five in the evening, we had sight of New Caledonia in the N.W., distant above twenty thousand toises, and we steered towards it; but about sun-set, we were obliged to lay to for the Esperance, which always sailed much worse than our ship. We then had a view of the coast, from 32° to the northward of west, to 32° to the westward of north; but we were still too far distant to see the reefs, between that island and the Isle of Pines. The Esperance joined us about eight ​at night. It was proper for us to make many tacks during the night, but it was so calm that the ship did not obey her helm.
A south-west wind brought us near New Caledonia; although we expected to meet with the winds, which generally prevailed several days before we made the land.
The small change of variation which the compass had undergone, during the transit which we had made, is very well worthy of remark. We may look upon it as nothing, from south latitude 36° 30′, and east longitude 154°, where the variation was 11° 30′ east, to south latitude 23°, and east longitude 164° 30′, where the variation was 11° 4′; for in this run of 13° 30′ of latitude, and 10° 30′ of longitude, the compass did not vary a degree; and it is well known that, at sea, the variation cannot be observed nearer than within a degree of the truth.
17th. A fire kindled by the savages, on the Isle of Pines, was seen during the night.
At break of day, we observed immense reefs on the coast of New Caledonia, stretching first towards the south, and then towards the west. The calm confined us, the whole morning, between those dangerous rocks and the Isle of Pines; but in the afternoon, a slight breeze from the ​south-west, enabled us to keep clear of the breakers.
At noon, our latitude was 22° 49′ S., and our longitude 164° 40′ E.; the southern point of New Caledonia then bearing N.N.E., distant about 20,000 toises. This extremity of that island is in 22° 30′ S. lat. and 164° 30′ E. longitude.
18th. We had lost sight of the chain of reefs, but about eleven o'clock we perceived their southern extremity, at the distance of about 10,000 toises N.W. ¼ W. Their small distance from our ship at noon, when we observed our latitude, convinced us that they extended some minutes farther to the southward than Captain Cook believed; for we saw that they reached 23° of S. lat., and 164° 31′ of E. longitude.
Those reefs, to which we approached nearer than the distance of 1,000 toises, are nearly 20,000 toises from the coast, and in that space keep the sea very tranquil: we were obliged to make several tacks in order to get out of it.
19th. We made little way in the morning of this day; for at noon, in 23° 3′ 48″ of S. lat., and 164° 8′ 20″ of E. long. we were still in sight of the western extremity of the reefs, which bore N.W. ¼ N. at the distance of about 10,000 toises. We brought the Cape to bear N.W. ¼ W. in order to double it, and to approach near the coast.
​We kept tacking, chiefly under our top-sails, during the whole night, endeavouring to keep company with our consort. It was necessary that we should be able, mutually, to communicate the dangers to which we might be exposed, on a coast bordered with shelves and rocks, hitherto unexplored by navigators.
20th. During the night, the currents brought us back to the reefs which we believed we had doubled. We stood towards the land, when daylight fortunately showed us all the danger of our situation. We were surrounded with reefs, and had but little room to beat about. The wind at south-south-east, freshened and increased the waves, which were carrying us towards the breakers; and we were in the midst of the danger, when the Esperance pointed it out to us by a signal. Rossel then commanded on the quarter-deck. Immediately we trimmed up the sails on the starboard tack, in order to extricate her from this dangerous position. The Esperance had succeeded in this manœuvre, and we had the pleasure to see her clear of the danger, and standing towards the west.
Our bell was now rung to summon all hands on deck, in order to be more sure of success. Four times did Rossel fail in his manœuvre, and every attempt did but bring us nearer to the dan​ger. We were driving towards the reefs, where the waves, ready to ingulph us, rose to a prodigious height. We could not cast anchor; for no bottom was to be found with fifty fathoms of line, although we were close to the rocks. Each of us was looking eagerly for the means of escaping death, which seemed almost inevitable. At last the ship touched, when, by unexpected good fortune, the fifth attempt succeeded, and we had the unspeakable satisfaction of seeing the ship remove from the danger.
Between the reefs and the land were some little islands, distant above 5,000 toises from the coast.
The land of New Caledonia, which was low towards its southern extremity, now began to rise into mountains of moderate elevation, in a south-east and north-west direction, inclining a little farther towards the north.
When, at the approach of night, we were going about, the top-men had forgotten to change the booms of the main-yard, and the mizen top-sail yard; and they were both broken, the moment we went upon the other tack. The first fell over-board; but the other, in its fall, wounded three people, among whom was the Commander of the expedition.
21st. We stood out to sea, and there remained during the night, and in the morning we steered ​for the land. A wind at south-east carried us to the north-west, at the distance of seven hundred toises, from the reefs, which deny all access to the shore, whence they are distant by about 2,500 toises. We expected to find some opening which would allow us to anchor under the shelter of this barrier, against which the waves dashed in a dreadful manner.
A considerable body of smoke which rose at the foot of the hill, at a little distance from the shore, indicated the presence of the natives.
From noon, when we found the latitude 22° 6′ 58″ south, and the longitude 163° 34′ 36″ east, we had proceeded nearly 10,000 toises to the north-west, when we observed, between two reefs a large opening, which seemed likely to afford us an entrance to an anchoring place near the shore. But unfortunately the day was too far gone, and the sea too much agitated, to allow us to send a boat to sound this entrance. We regretted much that we were precluded from enjoying the calm which prevailed behind this rampart, against which the waves made unavailing efforts.
Hills, almost wholly denuded of vegetation, rose like an amphitheatre towards the principal chain of mountains, which appeared to be, at least, nine hundred toises in perpendicular height, and their direction still towards the north-west. We ​there found three ranges of mountains of different degrees of elevation, and we observed hollows, apparently formed by the fall of the rains, and which were continued to the summits of the most arid mountains.
Behind those high mountains, we saw perhaps 20,000 toises within the land, which towered above all the rest, and appeared to be, at least, 1,200 toises in perpendicular elevation.
From the middle of one of those ravines or hollows, issued a torrent which we disinguished perfectly by the whiteness of its foaming waters; although we were very distant from it.
The cold on those heights, undoubtedly render it necessary for the natives to warm themselves. We saw many large fires, which they had kindled, while we beat about the offing in the night.
22d. On account of the faintness of the breeze, we could not make the reefs till noon, when we found ourselves in 21° 51′ south lat. and 163° 8′ east long. We steered along the reefs till night, without finding the least opening.
New Caledonia presents a more charming appearance than the old country of that name: for we saw some trees growing in the bottoms of the ravines with which those hills are furrowed.
A fire kindled on shore, indicated that those arid tracts of land are not wholly destitute of in​habitants. It was not long before we saw some of them.
The wind having varied from the north-east to the north and north-west, we brought to, about ten at night. This was not, perhaps, the most prudent manœuvre in our situation; for when danger is near, we should always be prepared to avoid it. It would certainly have been preferable to have kept tacking, in order that we might be able to manœuvre conveniently, in case any troublesome incidents had occurred.
23d. We were baffled by the winds all night, and at noon, were only in lat. 21° 37′ S., and long. 162° 47′ E.
We saw some mountains which were covered with trees to the summits.
The fires which we observed near the shore, indicated a great concourse of savages. They were probably brought together by the appearance of our ship, which was detained by contrary winds, almost in the same place.
About three o'clock, being about the distance of 35,000 toises from the land, we observed, near the beach, a group of twelve Caledonians, whose looks were directed towards us, and who seemed to be astonished at seeing our ship, at so small a distance from their island.
​Three natives who formed another group, stood very near two fires, which they had kindled.
By the help of a good spy-glass, we saw that they were entirely naked. They did not seem inclined to come off to us in their canoes. Besides, the reefs rendered it impossible for them to reach our ship.
24th. A strong breeze at south-west obliged us to tack; and we found ourselves almost at the same place as on the preceding day. The land was covered with a fog, which had always accompanied south-west winds.
We found the ship to be in 21° 46′ of south latitude, and 162° 46′ of east longitude, when we thought we saw between the reefs an opening which might afford us a passage; but how could we ascertain that fact, when the wind was blowing so strong a gale?
25th. As soon as the wind shifted to the south, the fog was entirely dissipated. The winds which brought the cold into those latitudes, forced the air, when the sun was withdrawn, to part with the redundant water, which it had held in solution during the day. Hence some large drops of very cold water then fell, at a great distance from each other.
For the two last days, we had made no con​siderable advances, in exploring the coast, where we had seen many fires, kindled perhaps by the same natives as on the preceding days.
26th, 27th, 28th. We had also to struggle with contrary winds, during the two succeeding days; but, on the 28th, a fresh breeze at south-east, favoured our views in stretching along the coast. The high mountains, which we had hitherto seen, were exchanged for some of a much lower elevation, and at last we thought we had reached the end of the chain; but farther on, they resumed nearly the same height, and we saw the northern extremity of the island, formed of lofty mountains, which, at that distance, did not appear to differ from those which we had observed on the preceding days.
At noon, our latitude was 20° 28′ south, and our longitude 161° 29′ east, and we were not backward in observing, that near the extremity of the island, the chain of reefs was interrupted, and presented a large opening, which seemed likely to afford us an anchoring place; but the wind blew too strong to allow us to put out a boat, in order to take the soundings in this opening. We lay to all night, in hopes that the weather would be more favourable the next day.
In the direction of the land of New Caledonia, ​we observed several islands surrounded with reefs, and connected together by sand banks and other shoals.
29th. During the night, the wind had made us fall off so much, that we lost sight of the northern extremity of New Caledonia, which we found to be in 19° 58′ south latitude, and 161° 10′ east longitude. That island presents a chain of mountains, extending about eighty nautical leagues, from the south-east to the north-west. Its mean breadth is not more than seven or eight leagues. Captain Cook, who discovered it in 1772, only saw the north-east part of it. The examination of the south-west coast of the island was an important object in navigation. The reefs by which it is bordered, are generally from 25 to 30,000 toises distant from the land, and towards their extremities this distance is greater, but they are not so broad. That coast, extremely dangerous at all times, is rendered still more so by the south-west winds, which were remarkably adverse to us, in exploring it.
The small number of fires which we observed, and the apparent sterility of the land, gave me good reason to believe that the island was but thinly inhabited.
We did not see a single canoe, although they ​might have been managed with facility, under the shelter of the reefs, where the sea is extremely tranquil.
About seven o'clock in the morning, we came in sight of many mountainous islands and detached rocks, stretching from N.N.E. to E.N.E. and which render this extremity of New Caledonia still more dangerous than the southern part. Some of those islands are several hundred toises in extent. The points of a great number of black rocks were elevated above the water. Those rocks, surrounded by water slightly agitated, seemed themselves to be in motion, and, at first sight, we took them for canoes, floating on the surface. We soon discovered that those little islands were numerous; for they extended as far as we could see from the mast head. They are encircled with reefs, amidst which the sea assumes the colour of the reddish sand which composes its bottom. We had a near view of them; for, about eleven o'clock, we were but about 1,500 toises to the southward of one of those little islands, when we observed reefs extending from its western point, in the direction of W.N.W. as far as the eye could reach.
At the place, where we found our latitude at noon to be 20° 6′ 4″ south, our longitude being ​161° 10′ 36″ east, we had on the east 22° north, a little island, distant 1,000 toises.
Another island bore from us north 80 degrees west, at the distance of about 8,000 toises. Those two islands were connected together by reefs.
We saw other lands, bearing north 28° east.
A fire, on the little island nearest us, not far from a rivulet descending from a mountain, indicated that those little spots of land were frequented by the natives.
The strong gusts of wind which blew in the night, would have greatly embarrassed us in any other situation; but, under shelter of the islands and reefs, it was easy for us to beat about during the night.
June 30. Some little islands towards the east, seemed to terminate this little archipelago. Their elevation gradually diminished, in proportion to their distance from New Caledonia. They seemed indeed to be only a continuation of the mountains of that large island; their bases being covered by the sea, and their summits rising above it, and forming so many little islands. The gradual diminution of the height of those mountains, makes it reasonable to suppose that in those seas, shoals extending to a great distance, contribute to augment the dangers of navigation. In the se​quel, we shall see that this supposition is by no means destitute of foundation.
We directed our course to the north-west, very near the reefs, which precluded our access to the little islands.
The Commander informed the captain of the Esperance, that in case of separation, the two ships should rendezvous at port Pralin or Carteret harbour.
Our latitude at noon was 19° 28′ 10″ south, and our longitude 160° 36′ 12″ east; the most northerly of the little islands bearing east, at the distance of 8,000 toises.
We came in sight of a chain of reefs, which extended as far as the eye could reach, towards N.W. ½ N. in some places forming bights, by taking a westerly direction. With the wind at E.S.E. it was easy for us to follow all the windings of those reefs. In the afternoon, we steered parallel to them for nearly 20,000 toises and then thought that we saw their extremity. We were already felicitating ourselves with having terminated this dangerous and troublesome navigation, and entering into an open sea, when the watch announced shoals and a succession of reefs, in the direction of N.N.W. It was now too late in the day to intangle ourselves among them, and we worked to windward during the night.
​A booby, of the species pelecanus varius, allowed itself to be caught about sun-set. It differed from the ordinary species, by having a lighter colour. This bird came, without distrust, and sat down on the round top, beside one of the sailors. The species is remarkable for being but little afraid of man: they will even frequently light on one's arm, when presented to them. Their sense of smelling must not be very subtile; for their nostrils consist of but two slight chinks in the upper mandible, which is moveable like that of the parrot.
July 1st. We now believed that we had compleated the survey of this frightful chain of reefs, which obstructs the sea for near 100 marine leagues from the S.E. to the N.W.; and we were 10,000 toises to the northward of them, about noon, when we found ourselves in 18° 50′ of south latitude, and 160° 32′ of east longitude.
We next steered towards the N.N.E. in order to ascertain whether or not those reefs extended to the north-east.
One of the crew, called Moulin, about two o'clock in the afternoon, discovered to the northward, at the distance of 10,000 toises, a little low island covered with very tufted trees, and bordered towards its western side, with reefs, extending towards W.N.W. This island, which is ​not above 2,500 toises in circumference, is situated in 18° 31′ 10″ of south latitude, and in 160° 32′ 14″ of east longitude.
Agreeable to the promise of the General, this island was called Moulin's Island, after the man who first observed it.
About four o'clock two other little islands were descried towards N.W. ¼ N. distant about 8,000 toises. As it was impossible for us to pass those islands before night, at five o'clock we directed our course to the S.S.E. and we kept the ship's head that way till the morning.
We were surrounded during the night with flocks of birds, which inhabited those low islands. Notwithstanding the darkness, the man-of-war birds came and hovered over our ship, and several boobies alighted upon our yards.
2d. The Commander had intended to anchor under the shelter of Moulin's Island; but we found ourselves carried above 5,000 toises to leeward, and it would have been extremely difficult to work up to windward against both wind and current. We therefore steered N.N.E. and it was not long till we observed, towards the north, breakers not far from the two little islands, which we had observed the preceding day. We steered parallel to them, at the distance of about 1,000 ​toises and in their direction, which was towards the north-west.
From the point where we observed our latitude at noon, which was 18° 7′ 46″ south, our longitude being 166° 32′ east, we saw the nearest reefs, at the distance of near 10,000 toises to the eastward. We continued to steer along them, in the direction of N.W. ¼ N.
About a quarter past one o'clock, we discovered, at the distance of nearly 8,000 toises towards the east, a low and very woody island, which appeared to us to be at the least 8,000 toises in circumference; and it was surrounded with rocks almost level with the water. Having the wind against us, we steered very near it: the breakers extended towards the north-east to the estimated distance of about 8,000 toises, and in the midst of those reefs, we saw black pointed rocks, similar to those which we had observed before.
This new island is in latitude 18° 3′ south, and in longitude 160° 31′ east.
We steered towards the north, and about four in the afternoon, we had the last of those rocks to the eastward of us, at the estimated distance of 8,000 toises. There those reefs seemed to terminate; appearing to extend towards the east, and then towards the south. Their northern extre​mity is in 17° 54′ of south latitude, and 160° 30′ of east longitude, and about ten leagues to the north of Moulin's Island.
It was easy for us to perceive, by the force of the waves, that we were disengaged from the reefs.
A great number of tropical birds, boobies and man-of-war birds, quitting their retreats in the different little islands, came and played in airy circles about the ship, almost the whole day. We saw the trunks of several cocoa-nut trees floating, which had been torn by the waves from the place of their growth.
About six in the evening, the lead indicated fifty-eight fathoms depth of water, with a bottom of fine sand, our latitude having then been 17° 51′ south, and our longitude, 160° 18′ east. We remained an hour upon that bank, where we hove the lead several times, and had from fifty to sixty-six fathoms in depth.
Thus we completed the discovery of a dreadful chain of reefs, so much the more dangerous towards the north, as they are wholly out of sight of land. Although they appeared to us interrupted, to the northward of New Caledonia, it is probable, notwithstanding what we observed, that they are re-united farther to the eastward.
Those reefs, are well known to be the work of ​polypi; and the danger attending them is the more to be dreaded, as they form steep rocks covered by the water, and which can only be perceived at a small distance. If a calm take place, and a ship be carried towards them by the currents, her loss is almost inevitable. Vain would be the attempt to save her by the anchor, for it would not reach the bottom, even close to those walls of coral, which rise perpendicularly from the depths of the sea. These works of the polypus, which, by continually increasing, obstruct more and more the bed of the ocean, may well be supposed, dreadful to navigators; and many shoals which now allow a vessel to pass over them, will, at no very distant period; be converted into reefs extremely dangerous to ships.
The compass experienced but little variation, while we were cruizing along this immense chain of rocks; for at their southern extremity, it was observed, to be 11° easterly, and it was diminished only two degrees, when we had reached their northern extremity.
3d. The next day we steered N.N.W.; but we saw no more breakers.
7th. At half past nine P.M. the moon being elevated about 15° above the eastern part of the horizon, we observed, in the west, a lunar rainbow. It differed in nothing from the solar rain​bow, except that its colours were not so vivid. This phœnomenon is much less frequent than might naturally be expected.
The allowance of water was very small, which was a prodigious hardship in latitudes so near the Line; and we had not the means of procuring more; although we were provided with Doctor Poissonnier's apparatus for distilling sea-water. This contrivance was of no use to us, as it required much more fuel than we could spare; for when water is scarce on board ship, wood is never abundant.
About ten o'clock A.M. we descried the Arsacides, which we made near Cape Nepean. Those lands, discovered in 1767, by Captain Surville, in the service of the former French East India Company, were since seen by Shortland, who, thinking he had made a new discovery, gave them the name of New Georgia.
Our latitude at noon was 8° 52′ south, and our longitude 154° 38′ east. The nearest land then bore E. ¼ N.E. distant 15,000 toises.
9th. At half past four o'clock, we descried the rock called Eddy-stone, bearing north-west, distant about 8,000 toises. At a distance, we took it, as Shortland did, for a vessel under sail. The deception was the greater, as the colour of it is ​nearly that of the sails of ships; but some shrubs adorned its upper part.
The lands of the Arsacides opposite to this rock, are steep and covered with large trees to their summits.
Several fires kindled on the mountains, indicated the presence of the savages.
Our observations ascertained the situation of Cape Nepean, to be 8° S. lat. and 154° 56′ 24″ E. long.
The Eddy-stone rock is in 8° S. lat. and 154° 5′ E. long. and consequently more to the eastward of Cape Nepean than Shortland alledges.
We lay to from two o'clock in the morning till day-light.
10th. Early in the morning, we saw the Treasury Islands, bearing N.W. ¼ N. distant 20,000 toises. They are situated 20 leagues to the north-west of the Eddy-stone.
About noon, we were distant about 2,500 toises from the western point of the largest, and most westerly island of that little group. It is in 7° 25′ 36″ S. lat. and 152° 56′ 34″ E. longitude.
Those islands are five or six in number, and so near together, that at a distance, they appear to form but one island, as was believed by General Bougainville, who saw them to the westward, ​when passing through the channel to which he gave his name. The Esperance only distinguished three islands: we saw five distinctly, and, had we been nearer, we should probably have seen more. The mountains which form those islands, are of a moderate elevation, and almost every where covered with large trees. The little group occupies a space about ten leagues in circuit; the east and west points being extended into shoals.
After having sailed round them, we steered N.N.E. in order to view the eastern part of the island of Bougainville. About five o'clock P.M. we were near its southern extremity, where we espied a group of ten little islands, the largest of which extends from east to west. Being covered with large spreading trees, interspersed with palms, those islands presented an enchanting prospect. Very near their southern side, we observed among them some breakers, which rendered it dangerous to approach them.
Two canoes, in which we distinguished a number of natives, were under sail, and seemed to steer towards us; but they passed behind the little island nearest us, and their rapid motion soon carried them out of our sight. On the beach of the same little island, we saw a company of ten natives, near a canoe, which lay upon the sand, ​and which they did not attempt to launch, in order to visit us. As night approached, it was necessary for us to go about, in order to get into the offing.
11th. A violent rain drenched us during the night, and was succeeded by a thick fog, which enveloped the land, and did not permit us to approach it, till some hours after sun-rise.
Some reefs, level with the water, and extending for some hundred toises, appeared about eleven o'clock, at the distance of 15,000 toises from the shore, which they warned us not to approach.
We saw the summits of the high mountains of Bougainville island piercing the clouds.
The land was again invested with a fog, and we were obliged to wait till the 13th before we could pursue our examination of the coast.
13th. We enjoyed the beautiful prospect of the high mountains gently falling into extensive plains, where however we observed no trace of cultivation. The whole scene was covered with trees, even to the highest elevations, which appeared to be at least twelve hundred toises in perpendicular height, and to be distant above twenty thousand toises from the shore.
Fires upon the hills announced the presence of the natives.
About half-past eleven o'clock, we thought ​ourselves in the greatest security, when we found the ship in shoal water, which the watch had not perceived. It was so shallow, that we could easily distinguish the fishes upon the rocks, some points of which, higher than others, put us in dread of shipwreck every instant.
We were then in 4½ fathoms of water, and the boat, which immediately began to sound different parts of the shoal, found only 3 fathoms at one of its extremities. The whole bottom was coral.
Thus we were involved in the most imminent dangers, being surrounded on all sides with shoals, which threatened us with the immediate destruction of the ship.
Boats were dispatched, to sound the water over the rocks, on each side of us. The least depth they discovered was 3 fathoms; so that, a slight agitation of the sea in that place, might have made us touch the bottom, and lose the ship.
Those rocks, like the reefs of New Caledonia, are the work of polypi; like those reefs they are built perpendicularly, and quite close to them, no bottom can be found with one hundred fathoms of line. They rise, like so many columns, from the bottom of the sea, and their progressive augmentation daily increases the danger of navigating those parts of the ocean.
​At noon our lat. was 6° 13′ 11″ S. and our long. 152° 7′ 51″ E. We brought to, and remained there till two o'clock.
Several trunks of trees floated alongside. On one of those which the boats brought, we observed a very old notch, which shewed that the inhabitants of the neighbouring island are in possession of instruments which cut very clean. Perhaps they still retain some of the axes, which General Bougainville gave them.
We drove insensibly towards a shoal; but we saw it in good time and avoided it.
Though the watches were ordered to redouble their attention, we found ourselves about half past three upon another shoal, which it was necessary for us to clear like the first, at the risk of seeing the vessel drive against the rocks. There was the same depth of water as before. The surge was rendered very strong by this bank of coral.
Our position was the more dangerous, as night approached, and those shoals being at some distance from the coast, gave us reason to apprehend that we should meet with others still farther off. How were we to avoid them, during the darkness of the night? We must trust to chance the security of our ship. We brought to, till day light, the ship's head to the south-west, and ​we frequently sounded without finding any bottom.
14th. The Esperance, about three o'clock in the morning, made signals, which produced a lively sensation on board of our ship. We believed that they indicated some danger; but they were merely intended to give us notice that she had soundings, in forty-two fathoms. We stood off a little from the land, and at day-light steered close along shore. The chain of mountains then began to subside.
Some little islands, detached from Bougainville Island, were connected together by reefs, on which we saw the waves beating. But these were not the only dangers on that coast: sunken rocks formed shoals, which followed the same direction. Those coral banks were doubtless covered with fish; for we saw many sea-birds hovering over them in quest of their prey.
A canoe, manned by six natives, was behind the little islands the nearest to our ship; but, as we were making great way, we very soon passed them.
That part of Bougainville Island which was now in sight, seemed to be much more populous than what we had hitherto seen. The fine plantations of cocoa-nut trees which bordered the ​coast, left us no room to doubt that the population was very considerable.
At noon, in latitude 5° 43′ 12″ south, and longitude 152° 3′ 26″ east, we saw Bougainville island, forming, with the little adjoining islands, a bay not less than 15,000 toises in extent. The General intended to anchor there; but shoals observed in different points of its entrance, and a sand-bank near its farther extremity, made him change his resolution.
Bougainville Island terminates in very low lands, and we soon had sight of the narrow channel which separates it from Bouka Island.
After standing off, we lay to all night.
The heat of the day had accumulated the materials of thunder above the high mountains. Frequent flashes of lightning discovered to us their summits, and the thunder rattled with a tremendous noise.
During the night the current had carried us more than twenty minutes towards the north. At six in the morning we were 5,000 toises to the northward of Bouka Island. The vast plantations of cocoa-nut trees which adorned its shores, indicated a numerous population.
A canoe, with nine natives on board, put off, and steered towards us. We immediately hove ​to in order to receive them; but they stopped within three hundred toises of the ship, and showing us their island, made signs to invite us on shore. There were but seven paddlers in the canoe; two other natives seemed wholly occupied in baling out the water, which beat over the sides of the canoe, and in observing our movements.
A native put off alone from the beach, on a catimarran, and paddling with the greatest celerity, came and joined the canoe, which kept always to the windward of us. Though a very old man, he appeared to be still very robust. After having viewed us for some minutes, he plied towards the island, as rapidly as he had come off. He appeared to be a messenger dispatched by the inhabitants, to make his observations, and to report to them what he had seen.
The canoe left us, and proceeded towards the Esperance, another very large one having been already alongside of her.
We saw at some distance a small canoe, manned by five natives, who came a-stern of our ship, and kept at the distance of about 500 toises, notwithstanding all our invitations to them to come on board.
In hopes of alluring those savages, we let down into the water a plank, with some knives and nails upon it, and a bit of scarlet stuff by way of a ​flag, tied to a stick placed upright in its centre. They did not, however, seize upon those objects, till we cut the string which kept it nearer to the ship than they chose to venture. The sight of the bit of stuff diffused among them the most lively joy: they showed us that they had accepted of our present, and earnestly desired more of the same sort.
At last, by throwing them handkerchiefs, bits of red stuff, and empty bottles, we succeeded in bringing them alongside. One of the bottles having taken in some sea-water, the savage who took it up, thinking perhaps that we had sent him something good to drink, was disagreeably mistaken on tasting the contrary, and we regretted that we had not given him timely notice of the circumstance.
Those natives were acquainted with the method of barter, and took much pains to shew us the price of their goods.
We received a very fine bow and some arrows, in exchange for a few handkerchiefs, which we let down to them by a rope. As they did not observe that we possessed this kind of weapon, they endeavoured to make us sensible of its value, by showing us its use.
One of the gunners went for his fiddle, and played them some tunes; and we had the plea​sure to see that they were not insensible to music. They offered us a number of things in exchange for the instrument, making signs for it, by imitating the motions of the fiddler upon a paddle. But they soon found that their solicitations were fruitless. It was the only fiddle by which the ship's company danced; and we had too long a voyage before us, to think of parting with the instrument, which procured us an exercise so salutary to seamen.
We had so loaded them with presents, that they soon began to make difficulties in giving their commodities in exchange for ours, to procure which they had recourse to unfair arts. The Commander had agreed to give them some handkerchiefs striped with red, their favourite colour, for a bow, and trusting too much to their good faith, had delivered them the handkerchiefs: but instead of the bow, they would only give some arrows, which were refused.
Those natives seemed to have a great propensity to gaiety. They seemed to take pleasure in repeating the words which they heard us pronounce; and the sweetness of their language enabled them easily to succeed in the imitation.
They were passionately fond of music, and particularly of the most brisk and noisy tunes. One of the officers, who was a good performer, ​played a very lively tune. They listened with very great attention; astonishment was visible in their features; they could not conceal the pleasure they felt; but, by different motions of their arms, which kept exact time with the measure, and a great agitation of the whole body, they gave unequivocal proofs of their sensibility.
They did not lose sight of the desire which the Commander had expressed for a bow. One of them promised him a bow in exchange for a hat; but when he got possession of the hat, he refused to surrender the bow.
Most of the things which we gave them were tied to the end of a line, which they were not at the pains to loose; for they carried in their girdles, shells which were sufficiently sharp to cut it at once.
As we had good reason to distrust their promises, a man went down by a rope ladder a-stern, with a view to exchange a bit of red stuff for a bow, when we perceived that the current had carried us to the north-west, and that we were already too near the shore. As a calm prevented us from steering the ship, we were obliged to put out a boat in order to tow her off. The savages thinking, no doubt, that we intended to pursue them, in order to punish them for their dishonesty, retreated precipitately towards the ​island. Out of gratitude, perhaps, for the patience with which we allowed them to cheat us, they committed no such act of treachery as General Bougainville, in his voyage round the world, had experienced at their hands.
Four canoes were, all this while, dealing with the Esperance. One of them was manned by natives, of whom sixteen were paddlers, and the rest warriors.
We learned from the people on board the Esperance, that this war-canoe had long kept at a distance; but ventured to come alongside, on seeing the different articles which their countrymen in the little canoes had procured.
The order with which the savages were stationed in the great canoe, indicated a kind of naval tactics. A warrior, armed with a bow and arrows, stood between every two paddlers on each side, and intermediate parties of two or three warriors stood with their faces towards the stern of the canoe, in order to observe the movements in that direction, and to fight while retreating. Those warriors showed no hostile disposition; they seemed very fond of the wine and brandy which was given to them, but did not eat bacon, without a degree of repugnance.
Those savages had excellent teeth, and found ​no difficulty in masticating the hardest biscuits which were offered to them.
Could those natives have had any communication with the English and the Spaniards? One of them, on showing us an arrow, which he was going to tie to the end of one of our strings to convey it on board, pronounced, very distinctly, the English word arrow. Another, showing us the land, and inviting us to it, made use of the Spanish word tierra.
We learned from the Esperance, that several of them pronounced the word Bouka, the name which General Bougainville gave to their island. This word, which in the Malayan language is the expression of negation, and which, when the first syllable is pronounced long, signifies to open, doubtless seems to indicate some analogy with the Malayan; from which, however, it differs so much, that one of the ship's company, who spoke the language fluently, could not understand those natives.
The value which they seemed to affix to nails, and the other articles of hardware which we gave them, showed that they were acquainted with the use of iron.
The colour of their skins is blackish. They are of a middling stature; and being naked, their ​distinctly marked muscles indicated great strength. Their figure though not very agreeable, is extremely expressive. Their heads are very big; their foreheads broad, like the rest of their faces, which are very flat, especially under the nose; their chins large and prominent; their cheeks full, their noses flat, their mouths very large, and their lips very thin.
The betel, which gives a bloody tint to their large mouths, adds to the ugliness of their appearance.
Their ears are loaded with large rings made of shells, the weight of which contributed to the large size of those organs. Some had red and white streaks traced upon their bodies; and we observed one whose hair and nose were sprinkled with a red earth, which appeared to be ochre. Some had bracelets formed of the fibres of the cocoa-nut husk.
Their hair was curled, thick and bulky, like that of many papows, whom we afterwards met with.
They are in the practice of plucking the hair from every part of the body. There was but one seen, on board the Esperance, who allowed his beard to grow.
All of them had their loins girded with a cord, which went several times about the body, and ​seemed only designed as a point of support, to increase the muscular strength of those parts. One of them, probably with a similar view, had his left arm tied in three different places, over the biceps muscle; some flat bits of wood, on the outside of the arm, supporting the strain of the cord.
Those savages appeared to handle the bow with much address. One of them brought on board the Esperance, a booby, which he had brought down with an arrow; and the fatal wound was seen in the belly of the bird.
The industry of those islanders seemed to be particularly directed to the fabrication of their arms, which were formed with great care. We admired the skill with which they had coated their bow-strings with a resinous substance, which gave them, at first sight, the appearance of catgut. The middle of the string was done round with bark, in order to save it from wear, by giving the impulse to the arrow. The inferior part of the arrows was very light, being formed of the stalk of the saccharum spontaneum; and the other part consisted of very hard wood, well pointed. The joining is ingeniously fastened with about thirty turns of bark, as is also the part of the arrow which bears upon the firing, to give it the greater solidity.
​ Canoe of the Island of Bouka ​Their canoes, formed of several planks, ingeniously joined together, are of a shape at once elegant, and adapted for a quick motion. See Plate XLIII.
At the approach of night, a current setting to the N.N.W. communicated to the tide a rippling motion, so like the effect of a shoal, that it might have deceived the most experienced eye. The boat was sent to sound, but no bottom was found with twenty-six fathoms of line.
During the night, violent thunder claps dissipated the thick clouds which enveloped the summits of the mountains, while we steered S.S.W. in order, if possible, to stem the current.
We had now explored the western coast of those two islands, as General Bougainville had their eastern parts, when he first discovered them.
The most easterly, which is at the same time the most southerly, point of Bougainville Island, is in latitude 7° 4′ 50″ S. and in longitude 153° 18′ 34″ E.
The northern point, called Point Laverdy, is in 5° 34′ S. lat. and in 152° 31′ E. long.
The coral banks, which we discovered off Bougainville Island, are situated in 6° 11′ S. lat., and 152° 2′ E. long.
The north point of the island of Bouka, is in 5° 5′ 36″ S. lat. and 152° 9′ E. long.
​The easterly variation of the compass diminished till it came to 7° 30′.
The currents along the coast, carried us constantly from 8′ to 10′ to the north-west every day.
The thermometer did not rise above 22°, although we were so near the Equator.
16th. At sun-rise we had sight of a flat island, to which Carteret has given the name of Sir Charles Hardy, stretching from north 15° east, to north 22° 30′ east, distant about 15,000 toises. It is situated 25,000 toises N.N.W. of the island of Bouka.
About one in the afternoon, we came in sight of Cape Saint George, on the south-east of New Ireland, bearing W.N.W., distant about 20,000 toises. It was found to be in 4° 54′ 30″ S. lat. and 150° 39′ E. longitude.
We worked to windward, by tacking all the night.
17th. At day-break we steered for Carteret harbour, where we could not stop to anchor. Leaving the island of Marteaux about 25,000 toises on the starboard, we steered so as to pass very near the Booby rocks, leaving Laig Island on the larboard, and we arrived between the island of Cocos and New Ireland, where we came to an anchor, about half past one o'clock P.M. in thirty-two fathoms of water, the bottom being very soft ​black mud, mixed with calcareous sand. We were about 200 toises from the island of Cocos.
The north-west point of New Ireland bore west 12° north, distant about 25,000 toises, and the south-east point of the same island bore south 31° east, at the same distance.
The middle of the passage, on the north-west of Carteret harbour, bore west 10° north.
At the distance of about fifty toises from the island of Coccs, we would have been in a harbour well defended on all sides. There is anchorage at a very small distance from the land; for about ten toises from the shore there are five fathoms of water, and, as the distance increases, the depth increases very rapidly.
We went on shore, on the island of Cocos, to pass the rest of the day. That little island, the highest part of which is not above seventy-five toises above the level of the sea, is formed of very white calcareous stones. Having risen from under the water, time has not much altered the form of the madrepores, which enter into its composition. They may be traced even on the rocks, which are the most exposed to the injuries of the air. The island is terminated on the south-east, and on the north-west, by the same kind of stones. About mid-way between it and ​Laig Island, there is sufficient depth to allow ships a passage.
A great quantity of rain having fallen in the night, there arose so much humidity out of the woods, as formed clouds every instant, which originating chiefly in the lowest places, resembled, at first sight, the smoke of fires kindled in the forest, and as soon as they had acquired sufficient elevation to be exposed to the current of air, they presently disappeared.
Large trees, which always preserve their verdure, cover the island of Cocos. Though their roots find little vegetable mould among the calcareous stones, between which they penetrate, yet, in that moist situation, they flourish very luxuriantly. It was a pleasant spectacle to see the fine tree, known by the name of barringtonia speciosa, attracted by the humidity, extend its branches horizontally a great way over the sea. That island produces fig-trees of different species; and we expected to find there abundance of cocoa-nuts. This expectation was indeed one reason for our preferring this anchoring place to several others at no great distance. But we found it difficult to procure even a dozen of those nuts. We saw, with concern, that some of the party, who had been sent on shore for wood, had allow​ed themselves to cut down the cocoa-nut trees for the sake of the fruit. They carefully searched for the young leaves on the tops of the trees, which are very tender, and afforded very agreeable refreshment to people who had lived long on salted provisions. If we had permitted them, they would not have left a cocoa-nut tree in the island; and that anchorage would have been deprived, perhaps for ever, of a resource extremely agreeable to navigators.
The night overtook us, when in the middle of the wood, and we were entertained with the charming spectacle of a prodigious number of glow worms, which diffused so much brightness as to dazzle, rather than enlighten us.
It was the time at which the species of crab called cancer ruricola, leaves the holes which it digs. On our way to the place where the boat was waiting for us, we trod upon several of them, and some of our party, before they knew what animal it was, were apprehensive that it was some venomous reptile.
18th. The next day I visited the south-east part of the island; but vines of different kinds prevented me from penetrating far into the forests.
Different species of the epidendrum adorned the trunks of the largest trees, and grew in the midst of a great number of ferns equally parasitical.
​We observed, floating along the shore, the fruits of several species of the pandanus, of the barringtonia speciosa, and of the heritiera, which stretched their branches, and even their trunks, in a very remarkable manner, over the waters of the sea.
Two of our men who followed me saw an alligator close to the shore, on the south-east extremity of the island of Cocos. But I do not believe that those animals are very common there; for, during the whole time that we lay at anchor, no accident happened, though a great number of our people were in the habit of bathing.
Near the eastern extremity of this little island, I observed several kinds of nautili, disseminated amidst the prodigious quantity of lithophites, which entered into its composition.
The abundance and continuance of the rains were astonishing. It was an incessant torrent of tepid water, which, however, did not hinder us from visiting the environs of the anchoring place.
I landed several days successively, on the islands of Cocos and Laig.
The number of insects of different forms and colours was truly astonishing; and the rains did not appear to diminish their activity. They were chiefly coleopteras, which it was difficult to catch. ​The most varied species belonged to the genus cicindela fabr.
We were entertained with the pleasant view of different species of figtrees, from the top branches of which depended a great number of radicles, soon to be transferred to the soil, and to give birth to so many different trees.
The palm cycas circinalis hath multiplied greatly in the shallows, under the shade of the great trees. We observed near them, an arbour newly constructed with branches, where the natives had been reposing, and had left the fragments of a repast they had made on the fruit of the cycas, the kernels of which, if eaten without preparation, are a powerful emetic, as several of our ship's company experienced; but the savages had roasted them, as we observed the marks of fire on a great number of the husks.
The kernel of the fruit of the cycas circinalis, is very bitter. The inhabitants of the Moluccas know how to put it to a better use, than those of New Ireland, as I had occasion to observe, towards the end of this voyage. Experience had taught them, that maceration freed it from its hurtful qualities; and the same process may also succeed with many other fruits and roots, which, in this manner, may be rendered useful, as food for animals and even for man.
​There lay on the ground, a great number of the fruits of the cycas, which the savages had not touched. Their succulent husk, which diffused an odour, like that of the finest apple, contains fermentative particles sufficient to produce a good spirituous liquor. Those fruits abound there, and may be useful to navigators.
Among the large trees which grow on the island of Cocos, I observed, with surprize, a new species of arec, the trunk of which was above eighteen toises in height, and its thickness throughout, not more than three inches. It was difficult for us to conceive how a tree, so weak in appearance, could support itself to so great an elevation; but our astonishment ceased, when we attempted to cut one down. Its wood was so very hard, as to resist, for some time, the most forcible strokes of the axe. A great quantity of interlaced (amilacée) substance, under the form of pith, occupied its centre, a circumstance common to many other trees of the same genus. This pith taken out of the trunk, left a cylinder, the wood of which did not exceed four-tenths of an inch in thickness, and was of a fine black colour. The fruit of this new species of arec is red, scarcely larger than a common olive, and nearly of the same shape.
The caryota urcus was one of the large trees of ​those forests. Among the number of shrubs, were several species of the dracæna. Among the large trees, I admired a solanum, certainly the highest species of that genus; those hitherto known to botanists, being only herbs or feeble shrubs. The leaves of this are oval, hard and very smooth.
That fine tree, the tectona grandis, so valuable for ship-building, grows at Carteret harbour. I also saw there different species of the guettarda, and a new species of hermandia.
Mosses and ferns were very numerous, and grew with the greatest luxuriance, in those humid situations.
The western shore of the island of Cocos is precipitous, and very much elevated above the level of the sea. The calcareous stones, of which it is composed, being much exposed to the injuries of the weather, are very friable. I found there the nutmeg-tree, which Rumphius has described, under the denomination of myristica mas (Rumph. Amb. vol. 2. tab. 5.) The fruit was then but young. It is more elongated than that of the species which is cultivated.
Some savage must certainly have perished among those rocks, for I found a human skeleton almost entire.
Near to that was a place where I saw the re​mains of a fire, which had been kindled by the natives who frequent that coast.
The continual rains at Carteret harbour, have rendered some species of spiders very industrious. They construct excellent places of shelter, in the middle of their webs, consisting of a snug fabric, in the shape of a cornet of paper, four-fifths of an inch in height, and one-fifth of an inch broad in the base, with its top elevated and a little inclined towards the south-east, in order that the prevailing winds may have the less force on this little habitation. The rain glides off this kind of cone, without being able to enter it, or to press it down, being stretched on all sides by threads fastened to the neighbouring branches. The spider, being perfectly sheltered in this habitation, never leaves it, but to seize the insects which fall into her toils.
Another sort of spider which is a less productive spinster than the former, protects herself from the rain under a piece of a leaf bent into a form almost conical, which she places in the centre of her web. Every precaution is taken to give solidity to her habitation, the point of which is opposed to the south-east wind, in order that it may be the less affected by its impulse.
Nature hath done every thing for other species of spiders, which are covered with very hard ​skins, and as smooth as if they were coated with the finest varnish. Those suffer no inconvenience from the great rains to which they are constantly exposed, and they wait patiently in the middle of their net, for the insects which form their prey.
Among those spiders, I found some, the bodies of which terminated in points: the aranea aculeata, and the aranea spinosa.
The island of Laig, being much less than that of Cocos, presents fewer productions. The land of it is of the same nature, but much less elevated.
The precipitous mountains of New Ireland, which border upon Carteret harbour, are at least, three times as high as those of the island of Cocos. The marine productions, of which they are partly composed, are observable, in the same manner, even on their summits.
On the 23d I landed on New Ireland, N.N.W. of the anchoring place, and near the place whence our ship received her water. The stream which furnished it, was visible only near the sea. Farther inland, we saw the channel of a torrent, along which, in different places, were cavities filled with water, which filtrating through the sand, formed the little brook which supplied the watering-place. After an hour's walk along its banks, we came to a beautiful cascade, which ​it formed, by dashing from the high calcareous rocks, in which we observed vast grottoes, which served as retreats for large bats, of the species denominated vespertilio vampyrus.
Some wild bread-fruit trees grew in those places.
At a time when Carteret harbour was inundated with continual rain, I was astonished to see only the channel of a torrent without any water; but it appeared to me, that the rain did not extend far enough inland to fill it. Of this it was easy to be convinced, by the serenity of the sky towards the south-west, while at the anchoring-place, the rain fell without intermission. Carteret harbour forms a sort of basin, where the clouds, loaded with water, after passing over the high mountains of New Ireland, experience a calm which hinders the air from supporting them. Hence result those excessive rains, which render the anchoring-place far from desirable to navigators.
Among the little plants, which grow in the shade of the forests, I observed several species of the procris.
Besides the nutmeg-trees of which I have already spoken, nature hath furnished the inhabitants of New Ireland with the species of pepper, known to botanists, by the name of piper cubebe, ​which I observed adorning the bases of the large trees, through a very extensive space.
Our boat was sent a fishing on the coast of New Ireland, about 5,000 toises to the south-east. There were observed some habitations, which had been newly and very ingeniously constructed by the natives, who were not contented with the roasted fruit of the cycas circinalis; for the remains of shell-fish were seen near those cottages.
24th. When the Commander anchored in Carteret harbour, he intended to remain there at least fifteen days; but the excessive rains made him resolve to leave it much sooner.
The greatest activity had been been exerted in procuring our complement of wood and water; and on the morning of the 24th we had made every preparation for setting sail.
The water which we took in at Carteret harbour was very good, and procured with great facility, by means of wooden spouts, which conveyed it into the boat, with no other trouble than lifting it three feet lower than the spout.
Our wood was cut in the Island of Cocos, and the conveyance of it was the more easy, as the boat could come close to the beach. It is proper to remark, that the wood, which we obtained at Carteret harbour, introduced into the ship a prodigious number of scorpions and sco​lopendræ, of the species called scolopendra morsitans, insects which very much incommoded us.
It was to no purpose, that we erected the observatory on the island of Cocos; for the incessant rains did not allow us to make a single observation. It is difficult to form a proper idea of these excessive rains, which poured down in an almost uninterrupted torrent.
The thermometer, observed at noon, while we lay at anchor, varied from 19° to 21°; and the barometer only from 28 inches 1 7-10th lines, to 28 inches 1 2-10th lines.
Our ship lay at anchor in 4° 48′ 10″ S. lat., and 150° 25′ 40″ E. long.
This harbour afforded us no refreshments; and we were unsuccessful in fishing.
The tides took place but once a day, and rose only about six feet.