# Voyage in Search of La Pérouse/Chapter 9

CHAP. IX.
October 15th.
We only waited for a fair wind, to take our departure. At half an hour past seven A.M. having a small breeze from the south-east we immediately weighed anchor, and about eleven o'clock, we had reached the entrance of the road, the western point of which bore W. 6° 15′ N. and the eastern E. 6° 15′ S. our distance from this last being about 1,200 toises.
Our meridian observations gave the latitude of the most westerly part of Amboyna, 3° 46′ 54″ south, and its longitude 125° 53′ 28″ east.
The breeze continuing all the day at south-east, we kept close to the wind, on the larboard-tack.
One of the boys of the large Dutch East-Indiaman, which had just sailed for Batavia, had hid himself on board the Recherche, and made his appearance at the very instant when the Captain of the Esperance, acquainted the General, that he had discovered, on board his ship, six fugitives from Amboyna, namely, three of the Company's soldiers, a sailor and two negro slaves. Those unhappy men had made their escape from a country, ​where they groaned under an almost equal state of servitude!
The Commodore had allowed the people to bring pigs and fowls on board, for their private use; and all parts of the ship were lumbered with them, but especially between decks; and they were the more troublesome, as the disagreeable odour which they diffused, was considerably increased by the heat of the climate.
19th. This evening, when we were in latitude 7° 10′ south, and longitude 123° 14′ east, the compass had no variation.
21st. This morning early, we saw a phœnomenon, which we had already observed several times, and which never fails to alarm navigators, who sometimes, during the night, take it for the effect of breakers. The air being scarcely in motion, we observed the sea foaming at some distance. Waves followed each other in quick succession, and we were fast approaching to the spot. A very heavy swell, occasioned by the sea receiving an impulse contrary to that communicated to it in the preceding night, succeeded the agitation of the water. The cause appeared to me to depend on the tide struggling between lands, where the currents acquire a velocity proportioned to the confinement of the channel.
About nine o'clock in the morning, we saw ​Kisser island, extending from S. to E. ¼ S.E. It is very mountainous, especially on the western side. Its greatest dimension is from W.S.W. to E.N.E. It is situated in 8° 13′ 2″ south latitude and 123° 32′ 17″ east longitude.
Dark weather prevented us, till about three o'clock P.M. from seeing the north side of the island of Timor, although our distance from it was then but about 5,000 toises. Its lofty mountains rose above the clouds, and during the night we had observed, fires at different elevations, on their sides. Doubtless the inhabitants, at those altitudes, find it comfortable to correct by fires the cold air of the night, and perhaps also they may use them to fray away the wild beasts. Those fires served as so many light-houses to direct our course along shore, when some gentle breezes interrupted the calm which prevailed for a great part of the night.
24th. About seven in the morning, we were within 2,500 toises of Laphao, a little Portuguese settlement, on the west side of Timor, in lat. 9° 22′ 45″ S. and long. 122° 23′ 36″ E.
The Portuguese flag hoisted there, bore S. 30° E. They saluted us with five guns. A canoe with a double outrigger, immediately came off to view our ships, to which it very nearly approached; ​but instantly returned towards the shore, without hailing us. On coming still nearer the land, we saw both natives and canoes, upon the sandy beach. We sounded several times, with thirty fathoms of line; but found no bottom.
About four o'clock P.M. we saw the Island of Batou, bearing south-east, distant about 10,000 toises. It is separated from Timor, only by an interval of 2,500 toises.
26th. Calms being frequent on the coast of Timor, we stood off shore this afternoon, by help of a breeze from the south, and steered towards the west; but without finding a steadier wind. Those calms appear to be caused by the heats, which at that season of the year are the more violent, as the sun darts his rays almost perpendicularly.
The continuance of the calms renders the navigation very troublesome along those coasts, on which there is always danger of being thrown by the currents. The great irregularity of those currents, renders it very difficult to construct charts of those coasts; and hence the great disagreement between those which have been hitherto offered to the public.
A great number of whales of different species, several times surrounded our ship, and leaped out ​of the water close alongside. From the little fear with which they approached us, we concluded that they had never been pursued by fishers.
We were pestered with the species of parrot called lorries, of which our people had bought a great number at Amboyna. Their piercing cries gave us no rest in the day time. Their new situation, on board ship, did not agree with them, for they died daily. They were seized with convulsions for which we found vitriolic ether a palliative; but it did not preserve their lives.
The mortality also spread among our feathered stock, the greater part of which were seized with violent diseases in the eyes, in consequence of the coldness of the nights; and those which were deprived of sight, soon died of hunger. It would, however, have been very easy to have prevented that disagreeable circumstance, by sheltering them from the night air, with a sail properly spread over their coops.
The water, which we took in at Amboyna, did not justify the great encomiums bestowed upon it, for keeping well at sea. It had already become so putrid, that it could not be drunk, till the inflammable air, with which fortunately it was but weakly united, had been expelled by strong agitation. This unexpected decomposition certainly arose from the negligence with which ​the casks had been cleansed. There remained enough of the fermentative principle of the old water, quickly to corrupt the new.
It is certainly very disagreeable to be obliged to drink the corrupted water of salt marshes; but it is encouraging to know that by agitating it some minutes, as I have shown, it resumes its original purity.
At half an hour past four A.M. we saw, by star light, the island of Savu, extending from W. 13° S. to S. 27° W. at the distance of 1,000 toises. We steered west, in order to pass to the northward of that little island; and about half past nine, we were a-breast of the bay in which Captain Cook anchored, in his second voyage, after having passed Endeavour Straits. We distinguished five canoes plying very near the shore, where they were sheltered from the waves, which spent their force upon a little reef, level with the water.
The island of Savu presents an enchanting prospect; being intersected, especially towards the south-west, by very beautiful hills, whose gentle declivity seems to offer to the natives a soil of easy and favourable cultivation.
Groups of cocoa-nut trees scattered on the shore, afford shelter to some cottages, which additionally embellish those charming plantations. ​That island, on which the Dutch have a small settlement, is in 10° 25′ 48″ S. lat. and 119° 45′ 19″ E. longitude.
About noon, a little island, within our view, extended from S. 46° 30′ W. to S. 57° 30′ W. at the distance of 7,500 toises. It appeared to us not to exceed 5,100 toises in length. Its latitude is 10° 28′ 50″ S. and its longitude 119° 56′ 17″ E.
29th. At six o'clock A.M. New Savu bore E. 31° 30′ S. at the distance of about 5,100 toises. That little island, which is very low, is in 10° 37′ 28″ S. lat. and 119° 2′ 47″ E. longitude.
At sun-set, we saw a part of the island of San del Bose, in the N.N.E. distant about 20,500 toises. It is covered with mountains of a moderate elevation, and is situated in 10° 27′ 4″ S. lat. and 118° 6′ 34″ E. longitude.
The position of a little island, which bore from N. 1° E. to N. 3° 30′ W. at 20,500 toises distance, was ascertained to be 10° 27′ 4″ S. lat. and 118° 7′ 5″ E. longitude.
30th. This day the current ceased to set westward, and carried us ten minutes northward. The bight in the coast of New Holland to the southward of Timor, probably causes this different direction of the currents, which constantly set from east to west through Endeavour Strait; for ​they soon resumed their westerly direction, and carried us from 20 to 24 minutes daily.
It must be observed, that Captain Cook, after having passed Endeavour Strait, experienced, like us, a change in the currents, for twenty-four hours, but in a full greater degree than we did.
31st. After losing sight of San del Bose, we met with no other land till our arrival on the south-west coast of New Holland. The light winds which we experienced, made us apprehensive, that we should arrive on that coast, too late to finish our survey of it.
November 3d. In the afternoon of this day, we were probably at no great distance from some rocks, for we were surrounded with a great number of birds, which never venture far from the land, and we did not lose sight of them, till the approach of night.
4th. We continued to see many birds this day. Navigators in traversing those seas, ought to redouble their vigilance, in order to avoid the rocks, which those birds frequent.
16th. Our stag fell over board during the night, through an opening, left at the extremity of the gangway, much larger than necessity required. Besides this loss, we had to regret that one of our hinds had been delivered over to the butcher's knife, because it was dying with sick​ness. We acquainted Captain Huon with this accident, begging him to take all possible care of his stag; but it died before our arrival in New Holland.
We passed the Trials at too great a distance to have a view of them; but we saw a great number of birds, which doubtless took shelter there during the night.
The species of cockroach, called blatta germanica, had multiplied to such a degree, during the months we had passed between the tropics, as to incommode us exceedingly. Those insects, not contented with our biscuits, gnawed our linen, paper, &c. Nothing came amiss to them. Their taste for vegetable acids was surprizing; no sooner was a citron opened than they attacked it; but it was still more astonishing to observe the rapidity with which they emptied my ink-glass, when I happened to leave it open. The causticity of the vitriol which they swallowed, appeared to have no bad effect on them.
The sugar extracted from the sago-tree, which we brought from Amboyna was a bait, which they could not resist. We destroyed great numbers of them, by mixing a small quantity of that sugar with water in a vessel, into which they tumbled.
Those insects tormented us still more in the ​night, than in the day. They continually disturbed our repose, by passing over any part of our bodies which happened to be uncovered.
The cockroach, called blatta orientalis, made its appearance on board soon after our departure from Brest; but it soon took leave of us, and its place was supplied by the first mentioned species.
17th. This day we were carried 38′ to the north-west. The Trials, from which we were not far distant, and some shoals, doubtless caused very strong currents.
19th. This day we passed the tropic of Capricorn. The mercury in the barometer rose, on the same day, to 28 inches 5 lines, which appeared the more surprizing, as it varies but little in the tropical regions. It was besides the only instance, in our whole voyage, in which it rose so high in such a latitude. Although the thermometer was not lower than 18°, we experienced a keen sensation of cold.
21st. We began to meet with variable winds, being in latitude 26° S.
Our goats daily perished for want of proper food. We lost at the rate of two in the day.
28th. About five o'clock P.M. the Esperance being to windward, had very nearly run foul of us; though the wind was favourable for steering. That piece of negligence in the officer of the ​watch, might greatly have injured the ships, and might have obliged us to abandon our design of visiting the south-west coast of New Holland, which it was our business to explore, without loss of time. But fortunately a boom, placed in the critical moment between the ships, prevented the accident.
December 6th. The appearance of several species of sea-gulls, and other birds, which never stray far from the coast, indicated our proximity to land. The wind blew too violently from the S.S.W. to permit us immediately to stand in for it with safety. Besides, the sea having been strongly agitated, and the horizon much obscured with clouds, we resolved to steer S.E. ¼ S. hoping that next day circumstances would be more favourable.
At noon, we found our latitude to be 34° 12′ south, and our longitude 112° east.
We lay to all night, sounding many times with 112 fathoms of line, without finding any bottom.
7th. About half past two in the morning, we were steering E.S.E. and at day-break, the Esperance made the signal for land at N.E. distant about 15,400 toises. It was the western extremity of the south-west coast of New Holland, ​discovered by Lewen in 1622; being a low land, extending from N.W. to S.W.
At six o'clock we tried, E. ¼ S.E. and when we came within 5,000 toises of the coast, we followed its direction towards the S.E. A very strong gale at W.N.W. drove us at the rate of 15,400 toises in the hour.
The interior country was interspersed with sandy downs, which had the appearance of the greatest sterility. Those small hills, scattered on a flat country, looked at a distance like little islands. In the intervals which separated them were some shrubs, the blackish foliage of which, indicated a state of suffering.
The peaked rocks, which rose in the midst of those sandy plains, the explained formation of the downs, the bases of which were doubtless composed of other rocks of the same nature, but of forms more favourable to the accumulation of the sand by the winds.
Fresh water must be scarce in such sandy regions, where that which falls from the clouds doubtless penetrates to great depths, without meeting with strata to stop their progress.
This morning our blacksmith was found dead ​in his hammock. The preceding evening he had partaken of a feast, which the gunners formerly used to celebrate with exactness. They had long been saving a considerable part of their provisions for this entertainment. The unfortunate son of Vulcan, extenuated, like the rest of us, by the abstinence to which we had been condemned since our departure from Amboyna, had too much indulged his appetite, and we were deprived of him by a stroke of the apoplexy. This loss would have been irreparable, if good fortune had not conducted on board of our ship, at the Cape of Good Hope, the very intelligent workman who succeeded him.
At noon, being in latitude 34° 45′ 36″ south, and longitude 113° 38′ 56″, the nearest part of the coast bore N.E. distant 5,100 toises; and the land we saw, set from W. 15° S. to E. 40° 30′ S.
The mountains now began to assume the appearance of a regular chain, the highest of which did not seem to exceed 200 toises in perpendicular elevation. We observed large tracts of them entirely denuded of vegetation: in other places, feeble shrubs were sparingly scattered, with here and there a tree of moderate height.
The mountains sometimes presented several chains, rising by degrees above each other.
​At four o'clock P.M. we saw some breakers near the coast, and a little to the eastward, two rocks 510 toises from the beach, and which we passed at a very small distance. The largest was remarkable for a separation in the middle, from which rose perpendicularly, about twenty-five toises above the level of the sea, an isolated piece, in the form of a very flat plate. I took it and its base, to be composed of a sort of hard grey stone. We admired the fine effect of the waves, which rising to the very summit of the rock, assumed a colour perfectly white, and descending again in foam, displayed that singular rock, as if it had just emerged from the bosom of the deep.
The coast then extended very regularly towards E.S.E. its little bights being terminated by points, the most prominent of which scarcely advanced 1,000 toises into the sea.
Being driven by an impetuous wind, we were not without apprehensions, on finding ourselves so near a coast which offered us not the least shelter; but we clawed off during the night, by steering S.S.W. A very rough sea from the W.N.W. made our ship labour prodigiously. Having been so long accustomed to navigate smooth seas, we had lost the habit of supporting such violent agitation: the wind blew in impe​tuous squalls, and allowed us to carry very little sail.
8th. About half an hour past six this morning we stood to the north-east, towards the land, near to which a strong breeze at west soon carried us; but we fell to leeward. The coast then stretched almost directly eastward; and the interior land presented the same appearance as on the preceding day. We observed vast yellowish tracks, which appeared to consist of hard stone, on which we did not distinguish the smallest trace of vegetation.
At noon our latitude was 35° 17′ south, and our longitude 115° 12′ east. In a little time the mountains subsided, and we came in sight of a vast plain of sand, in which were interspersed, at great distances, little hills, of which some formed capes, advancing a small way into the sea.
About four o'clock P.M. we passed a cluster of rocks, situated near the coast, and scarcely covered with shrubs, the dismal green of which was a proof of the sterility of the soil. At six, we were abreast of a bay, of which we could not see the farthest extremity. It would have afforded us perfect security against the impetuous winds which blew, while we were upon that coast. A foreland, which advanced from the north-west to ​the south-east, near 5,000 toises into the sea, some little islands and several rocks, situated at the entrance of that bay, presented abundant protection from the winds in the offing; but the waves ran so high as to prevent us from sending a boat to sound it.
We lay to during the whole night.
Being about 2,500 toises from the shore, we had soundings with 42 fathoms of line, the bottom being shells and bits of coral mixed with very transparent quartzose sand, which seemed to me an indication that we should have found a good bottom in the bay which we had passed.
9th. During the night, a clear sky permitted us to see the land, from which we stood off a little, having still the same kind of bottom.
The west wind was not very violent, and at half past four in the morning, we made sail, in order to stand along the coast, which trended towards the north-east, and a little farther on, towards the east and the south-east.
At eight o'clock we passed a bay, which appeared to reach 15,100 toises into the land, and to have an opening of at least equal extent. It is exposed to the south-east wind, but secure against that of the west.
Farther on, we saw in the offing some little rocks, not very distant from the shore.
​At noon, being in latitude 34° 48′ south, and longitude 116° 52′ east, we saw, within the land, N. 4° W. a mountain more elevated than any which we had observed, on the preceding days. Being isolated amidst vast plains of sand, it produced a very picturesque effect, and appeared to be about 25,500 toises distant from the coast. Its shattered summit exposed to view many irregular peaks, most of them perpendicular. Such peaks indeed extended over the whole mountain, which stretched 7,000 toises from east to west. This configuration left no room to doubt, that the rocks of which it consisted were not extremely hard.
We had not yet seen the least indication of inhabitants, since we began to coast those sterile shores. It was to be supposed, that some springs of fresh water would attract them to the base of that mountain; and accordingly the smoke of two fires, which they had kindled, convinced us of their presence.
About half past four o'clock P.M. after having doubled a cape terminated by some rocks near the shore, we came abreast of a bay as wide as that which we had seen in the morning, but not reaching so far into the land. The surrounding land was generally very low; but we observed, towards its eastern part, some little hills detached ​from each other. It offers excellent shelter from west and south-west winds; but it is entirely exposed to those of the south-east.
Tropical birds with red streaks, and some albatrosses, of a darker colour than those commonly seen at the Cape of Good Hope, flew around the ship.
We lay to all night, and sounding every hour, we had constantly thirty-three fathoms of water, with a bottom of grey sand.
10th. At half past four in the morning, we stood towards N. ¼ N.E to get in with the coast, and we soon saw it extending from N. 2° E. to W. 25° N. A clear horizon permitted us to see other low lands, stretching towards the north-east.
We soon after passed between the main land and the reefs, which were 10,200 toises distant from it. About eight o'clock, we left others, 12,800 toises distant; and it was not long till we saw, that a little island which we perceived towards the east, was connected to the land by a chain of reefs which, advancing into the offing, obliged us to keep on its south side till we had doubled it.
Three fires successively kindled on the point of land, where the reefs originated, apprized us that the natives were on that spot. The produce of ​the sea is doubtless the principal resource of those people, who inhabit so barren a soil.
At noon, we were in 34° 11′ south latitude, and 118° 22′ east longitude, when the little island already mentioned bore N. 38° W. at the distance of 1,020 toises.
Other fires lighted along the coast, sent up large columns of smoke, intended no doubt, by the inhabitants, to let us know that they were there.
About half past four o'clock, we stood away from a little island, distant 20,500 toises from the coast. It was joined to a series of reefs, which extended above 510 toises towards the east. The lead then indicated ten fathoms water, but some time afterwards, twenty-one fathoms of line did not reach the bottom.
We were becalmed, a short space, towards the close of the day; but a small breeze at south-east soon sprung up, and permitted us to stretch to the south-west, which course we held during the whole night.
We hove the lead every hour, and had a bottom of quartzose sand, mixed with broken shells and coral, at a depth varying from twenty-five to thirty-three fathoms.
11th. This morning, we stood towards the ​east, with all sails set, having a fresh breeze from the W.N.W.
At six o'clock A.M. The mercury in the barometer had fallen more than three lines. Although the weather was fine, this certain indication of a great loss of equilibrium in the atmosphere, merited serious attention. We nevertheless advanced before the wind, towards the centre of a group of little islands, about 5,100 toises from the coast, although we were uncertain of finding a passage between them, when we saw them at a distance. About ten o'clock, when we were intangled among them, we discovered that they were joined together by reefs. The sky assumed a menacing aspect, the horizon lowered in the W.S.W. and presently the wind blew from that point, with the greatest impetuosity. It was to no purpose, that we spent a long time in seeking among those reefs an opening, which might allow us a passage into the open sea; and as we had no other than that by which we had entered, we put about, in order to gain it. The impetuosity of the tempest having forced us to furl most of our sails, the ship fell off so much, that we went to leeward of our intended exit. Our running rigging giving way on all sides, our manœuvres were much retarded. Our repeated attempts to ​extricate ourselves, were unsuccessful: we always fell back into our dangerous situation, there to beat about, in a space abounding with sunken rocks, at different depths, on which the ship was in danger every instant of being dashed to pieces; and it required an experienced eye to distinguish those rocks, in a sea so strongly agitated. Citizen Raoul, a very skilful young mariner, in whom our Commander had great confidence, was at the mast head, directing the movements of the ship. Many times we were carried close to rocks concealed by the waves; but he conducted us safely past them all, though it was very difficult to distinguish them, even at a small distance.
The Esperance, which did not keep to windward so well as our ship, was close in with the shore, having no other alternative than to cast anchor or be stranded. About one P.M. we saw her at a considerable distance, in a place where we did not think she could come to an anchor. She had clued up all her sails; and we were very uneasy about her, being apprehensive that she had struck. But the steadiness of her masts soon removed our fears, by shewing us that she was riding at anchor. Her distance, however, and the force of the wind, hindered us from distinguishing her signals.
We did not hesitate to have recourse to the ​same shelter. The Commodore immediately gave orders to bear down under the fore-sail; and we were soon alongside of the Esperance, which was feebly defended from the waves by a little island. We were advised by those on board that frigate, to steer close to the land, in order to obtain a better station than they. In approaching near to the little island, we had the frightful spectacle of an impetuous sea which, when it had cleared the south point, opened, by its precipitate fury, a gulph which exposed to view part of the base of the rock. The dread of coming too near the land induced us to let go our anchor to windward of the Esperance, but not sufficiently within the anchoring place, to avoid falling foul of her, if our ship should drag her anchors. The danger was so much the greater, as our sheet-anchor could not hold fast the ship. The axes were in readiness to cut the masts, in order to give less hold to the wind, when our best bower secured us in our position.
We now rode at anchor in nineteen fathoms of water, with a bottom of quartzose sand, mixed with broken shells.
We were violently agitated by the waves, and exposed to almost the whole force of the wind; and we were apprehensive that our cables would give way, in which case we must have been dash​ed upon the rocks, where the waves broke in a tremendous manner.
In the evening, we let go a third anchor, to give us more security against such violent agitation.
12th. The mercury in the barometer, which had sunk to 27 inches 8½ lines, sensibly rose, as soon as day light appeared, and announced to us the termination of the tempest.
The surge having considerably abated, Captain Huon sent his boat to tell us, that on the preceding day, the Esperance was driving towards the land so rapidly, that she was on the point of being stranded, when Citizen Legrand, an officer of distinguished merit, went to the mast-head, in the very midst of the tempest, and almost immediately came down, exclaiming with enthusiasm, that the ship was out of danger! He then pointed out the anchoring-place, which he had viewed, and in which he was certain that she would ride in safety. This discovery saved both the ships; for the Recherche, obliged to beat about in the night among dangerous rocks, after struggling as long as she could, against the tempest, in hopes that a change of the wind would enable her to get into the open sea, would at last have been infallibly wrecked.
We gave to that bay the name of Citizen Le​grand, which will recal the signal service which that able mariner rendered to our expedition. His advice was to come to nearer the land, and it was to be regretted that it was not followed, for the larboard chain by which the Esperance rode gave way in the night by the force of the waves, and that frigate swinging by one anchor, would soon have been driven ashore, if another anchor had not fortunately taken hold. That ship had also lost two of her rudder-irons, and had no spare ones to replace them. They were broken by the violent shocks of the waves against the rudder, in the combined motion of pitching and rolling. The motion of pitching, all things else alike, is much quicker at anchor than at sea.
From the place where we lay at anchor, we reckoned twelve little islands, besides the rocks and breakers, which afforded us shelter. The sea, in that vast basin, sent in very heavy waves; but fortunately we were anchored in good holding ground.
The little island, to leeward of which we lay at anchor, bore from S. 25° W. to W. 3° N.
In the morning, a boat was sent thither from each ship, to take the soundings; for we intended to come nearer to it. They found every where an excellent bottom, and eight fathoms of water, at a small distance from the land.
​Some persons, in order to get on shore, were obliged to plunge into the water, for the boat would have been stove, if it had gone near enough to set them on there dry.
Many seals, of the species which Buffon denominates petit phoque, and Linnæus phoca pusilla, basked quietly in the sun, upon the rocks and the sandy beach; and some of them allowed themselves to be knocked on the head. It is proper to observe, that the figure which Buffon gives this amphibious animal, has undoubtedly been taken from a skin badly stuffed; for it represents the neck much smaller than the head, as is the case in most quadrupeds; but the seal being formed for swimming, has nearly the shape of a fish, the head being less than the neck.
In the same figure, the ears are represented as very open, whereas they are nearly of a conical shape, without any other aperture than a longitudinal slit. It would seem that nature intended to hinder the water from entering the ears of that animal; for he has the power of shutting them closely when under the water, and of opening them, though slightly, when he emerges.
On the same island, there was a numerous flock of swans, several of which allowed themselves to be taken by the hand; but the rest, apprized of the danger, immediately flew away. This new ​species, is somewhat smaller than our wild swan, and of an ash-coloured grey, a little lighter on the belly. The bill is blackish, with a tumour of a sulphur-yellow at its base. The legs are slightly tinged with red.
Our main-sail had suffered a small rent when we were struggling against the tempest the preceding day. This morning we availed ourselves of the fine weather, and shifted it.
13th. A small breeze at south-east, succeeded the tempest. As the moment was favourable, we warped, early in the morning, nearer to the shore, from whence we were then distant but about 150 toises.
I landed on the little island on the south-west of us. It is mountainous, and not more than 2,050 toises in length, and 1,025 in breadth.
The swell was not yet sufficiently abated to allow us to land with facility. It was necessary for us to seize the moment of the highest surge for allowing our wherry, kept fast by a small painter, to come close to the beach, and each time one of us leapt on shore. As the edge of the wherry, on which it was necessary to place the foot, in order to jump out, presented an inclined plane, and the beach was steep, we ran the risk of tumbling into the water, and being carried off by the surges, which followed each other very ​quickly, and from which even a good swimmer would have found it difficult to escape. That was not the only danger we had to apprehend; for we might have fallen a prey to a large shark, which kept at a small distance a-stern. We had observed him hovering about the ship ever since day-break, and he followed our boat as if he longed for one of us. The chaplain of the Recherche fell into the water, and would have been devoured by that animal, if the cockswain of the boat had not rescued him from the danger.
Some sailors belonging to the Esperance, when strolling upon the rocks, killed a number of seals of different colours; white, grey more or less deep, and brown, bordering upon black. They were, however, all of the same species, which has been denominated by Buffon petit phoque. Their flesh was found very good eating.
The little island on which we were, was composed of fine granite or quartz. There were also quantities of feldt-spar and mica; this last in blackish plates. We also observed some few spiculæ of black schorl. The granite lay bare in many places. The vegetable mould, collected in the least precipitous situations, was covered with shrubs, sometimes so close together, as not to be easily penetrated. I plucked a magnificent species ​of leptospermum, remarkable for its silvery leaves, and bright red flowers.
I found there several new species, belonging to the tribe of thymeleæ (mezereons), which have but two stamina, and of which Forster has composed a new genus, under the denomination of banksia. I also observed new species of the rumex, the lobelia and the buplevrum.
The western part of that little island presents, in one of its highest parts, a plain surface of calcareous stone, the strata of which follow the gentle declivity of the mountain. Strata of the same stone doubtless formerly covered the other parts of the island, and masses of granite served as their bases; but probably they have tumbled down, and have left the steep places exposed; for in the north-east, where the mountains fall with a very gentle declivity, there are still some calcareous stones, at a small distance from the beach. I was not able to discover any shells, by all the search I could make.
From the summit of that little island, we had a distant view of a part of the reefs and rocks on which our ships were in danger of being wrecked, before they arrived at this anchorage. Their number still appalled us, and we were astonished at having effected our escape from so many dangers.
​Two sea-gulls, a male and a female, of the species called by Buffon, bourgmestre, and by Linnæus, larus fuscus, perched upon the heights at a small distance from us. The female having been shot, the male frightened by the noise of the explosion, took to flight; but presently returned, and being determined not to abandon his mate, was killed by her side!
I also fired at a seal, which lay at a distance from me. Feeling himself wounded, and distrusting his strength, he durst not take to the water. Immediately another very large one, hearing the cries of that which I had wounded, came and licked the blood with apparent satisfaction; but at the sight of a long-boat, which was steering towards them, they plunged into the sea.
Soon afterwards, I saw more of those animals advancing towards the beach. Before they ventured upon the land, they never failed to raise their bodies nearly half out of the water, and they remained some time in that attitude, smelling and gazing all round, in order to discover whether or not they could safely come and repose upon the rocks.
14th. As on the preceding day, I had gathered an abundant harvest of objects of natural history, of different genera, it became necessary for me to ​pass a part of this day on board, in order to describe and prepare them.
About five o'clock P.M. the tents belonging to the observatory were sent on shore to be pitched. I wished to embrace this opportunity to make another visit to the little island. As the tide was only beginning to rise, a landing could still be effected; but in a little time it would been impossible to get back to the boat, and we should have been obliged to pass the night on shore. This consideration prevented several of my companions from landing. The interval to be got over before reaching the shore, was about twenty feet, and at every surge, the water rose there above six feet perpendicularly. There was a necessity for seizing the moment between the two surges, or of running the risk of being swept into the sea, an accident which actually happened to the surgeon's mate of the Recherche. He had told us before hand, that he would get on shore with dry feet; but not being sufficiently quick in his motion, he was hurried along the shore by a violent surge. Fortunately he could swim, and returned towards the boat; but in a very different plight from what he had supposed, when he boasted of his agility.
Those who had landed were obliged to pass ​the night on shore, without any other provisions than a few biscuits. Urged by thirst, they scrambled in a very dark night, above 1,000 toises, over rocks, in order to procure water, and, to add to their misfortune, they found it brackish.
Enormous sharks, of the most common species, the squalus carcharias, frequently appeared in the basin where we lay at anchor. On board the Esperance, they caught one which was about thirteen feet in length, and of more than proportionable bulk.
As every circumstance convinced us of the impossibility of renewing our stock of water, the officer second in command ordered, that each person should be allowed only three quarters of a bottle daily. At the same time he, as well as the Commander in Chief, used it without restriction. I thought, however, that water was one of those articles, the enjoyment or privation of which ought to have been extended to all, without distinction.
15th. The geographical engineer of the Recherche, set out at day-break, in the barge, to survey the little group of islands, to examine whether there was any passage to the eastward, between the rocks, and to look out for a proper watering place. I ardently wished to have joined this expedition; but as geographical operations ​have but little connection with researches in natural history, we were not apprized of the hour of departure, for which every thing was arranged so clandestinely, that I knew nothing of it, till the barge was pushing off from the frigate.
The impossibility of getting a boat to convey me to the main land, made me resolve to pass this day, on the island in the south-west, the sea-line of which I traced, setting out in a north-westerly direction. I soon arrived in the south-west part of the island, near the most elevated land, where I found a little rill of fresh water, issuing from a fissure in a granite rock. This discovery diffused great joy among us; for we had been for some time reduced to very short allowance of that article.
Very near that rill, I saw some cavities full of limpid water, which I had reason to believe as fresh as that which issued from the rock; for it was more than 200 toises above the level of the sea. But I was mistaken: it was very salt, and farther on, other excavations filled with the same water, were bordered with crystals of sea salt in laminæ so thin, that at a certain distance, they resembled glass. This fact having been mentioned on board by those who accompanied me, some persons, in order to account for the phenomenon affirmed, that the waves must beat up to that ​height in bad weather, notwithstanding the coast was guarded by very large rocks; although indeed they were but at a small distance from the bases of the mountains.
As the rill, which was very weak, furnished slowly the water necessary to quench our thirst, we were obliged to remain beside it, when presently some little drops of the salt water with which we were wetted, convinced me that the air raised to the place where we stood, the sea water, attenuated by impinging against the rocks. It was not long till our clothes were covered with it, as if we had been exposed to a slight fog; and this water had lost none of its saltness.
Some birds came to our retreat to quench their thirst. There I killed the charming yellow turtle dove, remarkable for six or eight golden feathers towards the bases of its wings, and which induced White to call it The golden winged pigeon (see page 43, where he has given a good figure of it). I had before found the same species at Cape Diemen.
There we also caught many penguins, of the species called aptenodyta minor, and which Captain Cook likewise met with at New Zealand. They were in the same manner concealed in very deep holes in the rocks, from whence it was frequently very difficult to expel them.
​The summit of one of the highest mountains, which I visited this day, for the first time, was formed of calcareous stone disposed in strata almost horizontal, similar to those which I had before met with on those heights. It was of a very fine grain, with some few small cavities. I did not there observe any shells. It may be presumed, that that conformation was the effect of a flow deposition of calcareous matter in a state of solution.
The change of the soil presented me with some plants, which I had not yet found.
I gathered a new species of very tall (saillante) eucalyptus, of which the following is a description:
The most elevated twigs of that shrub, are not above thirteen feet in height. They are smooth, are furnished, chiefly towards the extremity, with leaves, alternate, oval, elongated, slightly bent, and about four inches in length.
The flowers are sessile, and generally eight or ten in number, at the extremity of a common peduncle, about an inch and one-fifth in length, having all the characters of the genus eucalyptus. Their stamina, which are very numerous, have long filaments of a yellow colour. The style projects a little over the stamina.
The calix is very much elongated, and is ​ Eucalyptus cornuta ​pushed outwards by the stamina, in proportion as they are developed, and it falls when they have acquired their full growth.
The capsule is open at top, and furnished with three cells and sometimes four. It is surmounted by a small portion of the base of the style, which is divided into as many parts as there are cells.
Every cell contains a great number of angular seeds.
The form of the calix has induced me to give it the name of the eucalyptus cornuta.
Explanation of the Figures. Plate XVII.
Fig. 1. A branch of the eucalyptus cornuta.
Fig. 2. A flower disengaged from its calix, in order to expose to view the stamina and the style.
Fig. 3. A flower, whose detached calix still envelopes the stamina.
Fig. 4. The calix.
Fig. 5. The ovarium.
Fig. 6. The capsule.
After having resolved to pass the night on shore, we sought for a commodious retreat, and found at last an excavation in a rock, where we were for some time perfectly sheltered from the wind and the rain which overtook us at the close of the day. The cold was sufficiently keen to induce us to kindle a fire, and as we had not much pro​visions, after I had chosen from among the birds I had shot, those which I wished to preserve for my collection, I gave the rest to my companions to be broiled. We were expecting to make a hearty supper, and to sleep soundly, when all on a sudden, the wind chopped about and blew direly into our grotto, which we were immediately obliged to abandon, to avoid being stifled by the smoke of our fire. This change of weather made us regret that we had not returned on board; for the wind was so strong as to extinguish our fire, before our penguins were sufficiently broiled, but yet we found them very good.
At this repast, the ample supply of water, which we had brought from the top of the mountain, agreeably reminded us, that here at least, we could drink without restraint.
16th. At day-break I advanced towards the south-west. Among many other vegetable productions, I discovered at the base of the mountains, in a marly soil, a leguminous plant, which ought to be ranked among those the corolla of which is papilionaceous, and the filaments of their stamina separate from each other.
It forms a new genus, which I call chorizema.
The calix is in one piece, and divided into four parts on its borders. The upper division is large, hollowed, and longer than the rest. The ​ Chorizema ilicifolia ​three lower ones are equal among themselves, strait and terminated by a point.
The superior border of the vexillum is hollowed, and almost entirely covers the alæ of the carina.
The stamina, which are fix in number, are all separated from one another.
The ovarium is oval, elongated, and terminated by a recurvated style.
The pod is oval, and filled with a great number of black and almost spherical seeds.
This plant is perennial, and its leaves are simple, alternate, sessile, coriaceous, long, dentated, and have two little spines for stipulæ.
The form of the leaves has induced me to delineate this species, under the name of chorizema elicifolia.
Explanation of the Figures. Plate XXI.
Fig. 1. The plant.
Fig. 2. The flower.
Fig. 3. The expansion of the petals.
Fig. 4. The stamina; the corolla and the calix having been removed.
Fig. 5. The ovarium.
Fig. 6. The pod.
Very early in the morning the Esperance had sent a boat to the main land, with a view to some ​astronomical observations. Citizen Riche had also landed there. The rendezvous was fixed for two o'clock in the afternoon, at the landing place; but the boat's crew waited in vain till seven in the evening, when they were obliged to return to the ship, from their want of provisions, and the dangerous situation of the boat, if the surge had risen ever so little. They left upon the beach a written note, acquainting Citizen Riche, in case he should return thither, that they would return and take him off very early the next morning, if the weather would permit.
The geographical engineer, who had been sent to survey the little islands, returned in the evening, having determined the position of more than twenty of them, scattered in the space of a degree in longitude, and as much in latitude. He landed in several places, without finding a commodious watering place, and the only rill of fresh water which he discovered could scarcely furnish a sufficiency for the daily consumption of the ships. But he had found an anchoring place, behind the point of the main land, which bore from us, E.N.E. but it was not so deep as that which we occupied.
The discoveries of Nuyts terminated at this archipelago. We were astonished at the precision with which the latitudes had been determined ​by that navigator, at a time when nautical and astronomical instruments were so imperfect. I ought to extend the same observation, to almost all those ascertained by Lewen on this coast.
For some days the winds had blown from the east, inclining to the north in the morning, and to the south in the afternoon. The sands, strongly heated by the solar rays, caused this diurnal variation. The equilibrium of the atmosphere was not affected by those winds, and hence the mercury in the barometer commonly stood at 28 inches, 3 or 4 lines.
17th. This day the weather being favourable, a boat was sent in quest of Citizen Riche. That naturalist, enraptured with the riches and novelty of all the productions of that region, which no observer had hitherto visited, had doubtless been so absorbed in admiration of them, that he had quickly lost his way; and he had not yet returned to the appointed rendezvous.
When advancing in the direction which he was seen to take on the preceding day, our people saw, at a small distance, some savages, with whom, however, any communication was impossible; for they always fled when our people offered to approach them.
The situation of Riche was so much the more alarming, as he had been absent nearly a day and ​a half, and as we knew that he had landed upon that sterile soil without provisions.
The boat, which returned about two o'clock in the afternoon, brought the dismal intelligence that he was not to be found. Captain Huon immediately waited on the Commodore, in order to concert with him the measures, which it would be adviseable to take, on this disagreeable occasion. The Commodore having sent for the naturalist Deschamps and me, Captain Huon told us the methods he had taken to recover our unfortunate colleague; stating to us the dangers to which he must necessarily be exposed, in advancing alone into the interior country, where, perhaps, he had fallen by the attacks of the savages; in short, he said, he could not but apprehend the most fatal event, believing it to be impossible that he could willingly have absented himself so long.
The nature of those burning sands, which are totally destitute of water, rendered all the conjectures, which we could form concerning him, still more melancholy.
As our stock of water was partly consumed, and we had found no means of renewing it, at that anchoring-place, Captain Huon, after representing to us the disadvantages of prolonging our stay, added, that it was evident any farther search could only injure the expedition, without ​expressing the least hope of finding our unhappy associate.
Deschamps, upon whom those arguments had the desired effect, espoused the opinion of the Captain, and seconded his proposition for sailing, by declaring that it could not be dissembled, that we could now do nothing more than lament the loss of our friend.
Those probabilities had not the same weight with me. But it was necessary for me to persuade the sailors; and I employed what I thought the most proper argument for that purpose, by citing, in support of my opinion, an instance taken from the voyages of the most celebrated of navigators. I reminded them that, in December 1777, two sailors strayed from Captain Cook, into the island of Noel, one of whom was absent a whole day, and the other eight and forty hours; that Cook had ordered several detachments to search for them with the greatest care; that Noel, however, was but a little low island, scarcely covered with shrubs, whereas New Holland, where Riche had lost himself, was an immense region. I requested, therefore, that the same time should be allowed to search for our unhappy friend, as Captain Cook had employed in seeking one of his sailors.
This reasoning produced all the effect which I could desire.
​A boat was immediately dispatched, from each ship, for the main land; and I had the pleasure to be of the party, whose business it was to use every method, and to make every effort, to recover our unfortunate mess-mate.
The Commodore ordered guns to be fired every half hour, to enable Riche, if still alive, to direct his steps with the more certainty towards the anchoring place.
The wind favoured us, and, in a short time, we made good our landing.
After having advanced into the country, in different directions, we returned to the landing place, on the approach of night.
We traversed a track wholly covered with sand, where we found extensive spaces absolutely destitute of vegetables. But I saw with surprize, on those distant shores, the grass known by the name of spinifex squarrosus; and thus had a new and an admirable instance of the facility with which plants, which grow on the sea shore, diffuse themselves to prodigious distances.
In those arid wastes, grows a fine plant which nearly resembles the iris, and which naturally classes itself with the genera dilatris and argolasia. It forms, however, a new and a very distinct genus, principally by its irregular corolla.
​ Anigozanthos Rufa ​I have delineated it under the name of anigozanthos.
Its flowers have no calix.
The corolla has the form of a tube, the edges of which are divided into six unequal parts recurvated inwards. It is covered with reddish pili.
The stamina, which are six in number, are inserted under the divisions of the corolla, which is placed upon the ovarium.
The style is simple, as well as the stigma.
The capsule is nearly spherical, and of the same colour with the flower by which it is surmounted. It has three cells filled with a great number of angular seeds.
The top of the stalk is covered with reddish pili, like the flowers.
I have denominated this species anigozanthos rufa.
Explanation of the Figures, Plate XXII.
Fig. 1. The plant.
Fig. 2. The flower.
Fig. 3. The flower divided longitudinally, and expanded, in order to expose the stamina to view.
Fig. 4, The stamina.
Fig. 5. The capsule.
Although in the day, the heat was very power​ful upon the land, we experienced a very keen cold in the night.
As soon as day began to dawn, we divided ourselves into two parties. That which I accompanied advanced towards the north, and the other towards the north-west.
Directing our steps by the compass, we had proceeded at least 5,100 toises across plains of calcareous sand, heaped up in different places, when we arrived in a very narrow bottom, where the verdure of the plants formed a very pleasing contrast with the dismal places we had traversed, and they grew in a very rich soil. There we saw some cavities which afforded us a little fresh water, but they were too distant to be of any use to the ships.
Continuing our route, I observed in the midst of those sands, some rocks of a calcareous nature, where I collected some fine plants, which still resisted the aridity of the soil. Among the great number of the tribe of the protea, which I observed there, I shall mention two species of banksia, which I call banksia repens, and banksia nivea.
The first has a creeping stalk, thickly covered with reddish down, terminated by flowers joined together in a conical form.
The leaves are pinnatifid, and when very young, ​ Banksia Nivea. ​ Banksia Repens. ​are coated with the same down as the stalk; so that one would take that plant for some species of acrostichum; but when more advanced in age, they are very smooth.
Explanation of the Figures, Plate XXIII.
Fig. 1. The plant.
Fig. 2. The flower.
Fig. 3. The corolla divided transversely, and viewed through a magnifying glass.
Fig. 4. The stamina magnified.
Fig. 5. The ovarium, with the style and the stigma.
The species of banksia, which I call nivea, is remarkable for its long leaves, dentated very deeply, and white on the under side.
Explanation of the Figures, Plate XXIV.
Fig. 1. The plant.
Fig. 2. The flower.
Fig. 3. The corolla expanded.
Fig. 4. A part of one of the divisions of the corolla, viewed through a magnifying glass.
Fig. 5. The stamen, viewed through a magnifying glass.
Fig. 6. The ovarium surmounted by its style.
I also found there the eucalyptus cornuta, and many other plants of the myrtle tribe.
​At the end of four hours very quick walking, we arrived on the banks of a great lake which has a communication with the sea.
The natives had recently made fires in many places which we passed.
We saw no kangarous; but their excrements, which we saw every where in great abundance, convinced us that that quadruped has multiplied greatly on that coast. We also observed excrements which very much resembled those of the cow; but we did not see the animal to which they belonged. We saw in the sand the prints of a cloven hoof, more than three inches in breadth. There is no doubt that that region is inhabited by animals much larger than the kangarous. It affords but little food for birds; and accordingly I found none in this excursion except two species, a muscicapa, which I afterwards met with in the Moluccas, and the fine species of red crested cockatoes, psittacus moluccensis, which are met with in the same islands, in flocks of many hundreds. When I attempted to approach them, they always removed to a great distance, flying rapidly, with sudden starts, and emitting loud and very disagreeable shrieks.
The banks of the lake, which we followed for some time in approaching the sea, are somewhat marshy. The lake extends a great way into the ​land; for the other party, who proceeded towards the north-west, also arrived on its banks. Some of them came to our rendezvous to acquaint us, that they had observed on the very edge of the lake, towards the part farthest from the sea, the prints of shoes, which left no doubt that Riche had passed that way; but that the marks of naked feet which appeared near his, gave grounds for apprehending that he had been dragged by the savages into the interior country. What tended to give still more probability to this conjecture was, that they soon found his handkerchief upon the sand, and a little farther on, one of his pistols. At a small distance, they saw a little smoke from a deserted fire, around which they found some bits of paper, on which they recognized the handwriting of Riche; and besides, the sand still bore the marks of one who had been resting himself on the spot.
We returned towards the landing place, lamenting the fate of our unfortunate mess-mate, and had very nearly reached the shore, in a hopeless state of mind, when we saw one of those who had been left to take care of the boat, running to meet us with the pleasing intelligence, that Riche was still alive, and that he had just arrived at the landing-place, extenuated with hunger and fatigue. He had been above fifty-four hours on ​shore, with no other provision than some bits of biscuit. The famished state to which he was reduced, rendered it imprudent for his friends to allow him to indulge his appetite, and in giving him food we tried gradually to bring into action the digestive powers of his stomach. His appearance, at first entirely discomposed, became by degrees re-animated. When he had recovered from the state of stupor into which he had been thrown by so long a privation of nourishment, he told us that, near the fire which we had found still burning, there was a little rill of fresh water, at which he had quenched his thirst; and that, by dint of searching among the plants, analogous to those which yield esculent fruits, he had discovered a shrub of the tribe of plaqueminiers which furnished him with some small fruits; but in a quantity insufficient for the supply of his necessities. On the first day of his absence, he found the spring, near which his things had been picked up. There he passed the night, and the next day he spent wholly in seeking the anchoring-place, without being able to find it. In all this painful peregrination, he had not met with a drop of water; but chance happily conducted him in the evening to the same spring, where he passed the second night. Having seen savages at a distance, he had attempted to obtain some intercourse with ​them, in order to know their manner of subsistence, and to ask them for some food; for he was violently tormented with hunger; but they always fled, when he was advancing towards them. They frequently set fire to the dried grass which was diffused over the sand. In that climate, men not being under the necessity of wearing cloaths, they were all absolutely naked.
Some cazoards and kangarous of the large species, were the only animals seen by Riche. Although in a state of weakness, he had carried for two days a numerous collection of very interesting productions; but, during the third day, his strength sunk so rapidly, that it was with great difficulty he could trail himself along the shore, in quest of the ships, and in those circumstances, he was obliged to abandon his whole collection, not being able to reserve even the most precious articles.
As soon as he had a little recovered his strength, we conveyed him towards the ships. It was to little purpose that we made the signals agreed upon to announce our success. Every one was so convinced before hand of the inutility of our researches, that they did not understand the meaning of them, till we had come close to the ships, and Riche was seen in the midst of us. The horrible situation in which he would have been, ​if the opinion entertained by some persons concerning him had prevailed, ought to be an alarming and dreadful lesson to captains and naturalists who undertake long voyages; for, if we had quitted that anchoring place the day before, his existence would have been terminated by a most frightful death, in all the anguish of the most terrible despair.
Though it was demonstrated by this fact, that it was possible for a man to lose himself for more than two days in that country, the greater part of our sailors chose to be of a different opinion; some of them being more willing to believe and to say, that Riche had designedly absented himself; as if it could be believed, that he would wantonly expose himself to all the horrors of famine.
During our stay at that anchoring place, we could not fish with the seine. But on board the ships, some fishes were caught with the hook, among which were the labrus cyprinoides, and several new species of the genus perca.
We lay at anchor, in latitude 33° 55′ south, and longitude 119° 82′ east.
The variation of the compass was found to be 6° west.
19th. All the boats having been get on board over night, we waited for the morning to weigh ​anchor, if the wind should serve. It shifted from the N.E. to the E.S.E. and at six o'clock A.M. we were under sail.
Passing to the northward of the little island which had sheltered us, we advanced into the open sea.
At noon, being in latitude 34° 12′ 54″ south, and in longitude 119° 21′ east, the most southerly of the rocks bore E. 2° S. distant about 3,400 toises, and the most northerly land bore N. 1° E.
For some days, east winds prevailed, which made us apprehend great difficulties, in exploring that coast; and analogy gave much probability to that supposition; for at the Cape of Good Hope, which even extends some degrees farther to the southward than that part of New Holland, east winds also predominate at the same season of the year.
24th. About noon this day, we had only reached 34° 24′ south latitude, and 120° 22′ east longitude; and the little islands at which we had anchored were still in sight.
The east wind blew very fresh in the afternoon, but in the evening, we had a hot suffocating breeze from the land. Immediately we were enveloped in a very thick fog, the air being loaded with a humidity which pervaded every thing. I can compare it to nothing so properly, as to those ​fogs which southerly winds diffuse over the Mediterranean, near the African coast, in a very hot season. The sands, heated by the solar rays, had communicated to the atmosphere an additional power of retaining water, and we found ourselves immersed, as it were, in a vapour bath of a moderate temperature.
About eleven at night, we lost sight of the Esperance, which did not answer the signals we made, till three hours afterwards, when we heard a very distant report of a gun.
25th. The breeze was weak: we plied close to windward; and when day-light appeared, we saw the Esperance at a small distance. The wind soon began to blow forcibly from the south-west; and for some time, we went at a great rate towards the east.
At noon, we were in 34° 14′ south latitude, and 121° east longitude; and two hours afterwards, we perceived behind some little islands, a large bight, which appeared to offer us excellent shelter.
The natives announced their presence by the smoke of fires, a great way from the shore, and from each other.
The barometer having descended still lower than when it foretold the tempest, which forced us to anchor in Legrand road, we stood off shore, ​to avoid being embayed on that dangerous coast. We afterwards lay to, for the whole night, keeping the ship's head towards the south and S.S.E.
There was a very heavy sea: the wind blew impetuously from the S.W. and the W.S.W. and increasing gradually, it raged with the greatest violence for almost the whole night, raising the waves to a prodigious height. We had never yet been so violently tossed by a tempest.
The south-west winds there are almost always impetuous, and add very much to the dangers to which ships are exposed, in coasting from west to east, along that low shore, frequently lined with shoals; and there is danger of their not being perceived soon enough to be able to double them.
When day-light appeared, we stood in for the land. A wind from W.S.W. brought us back fine weather.
Towards noon, we were in latitude 33° 49′ south, and longitude 122° 4′ east, when we saw from the mast-head, beyond several little islands, a part of the coast, extending from west to north-west, and which still appeared low. Presently it assumed the appearance of a bank, raised in a very uniform manner, trending towards the east, and intercepting our view of the land. At the approach of night, we clawed off shore, and afterwards lay to.
​27th. The next morning, we continued to follow the coast, and about three o'clock P.M. our distance from it was but 1,000 toises. It uniformly presented the same appearance, for more than 15,400 toises. We perfectly distinguished thin horizontal strata, of the same form with the calcareous rocks, which I found in Legrand road. I am inclined to believe, that this interruption of mountains, through so great an extent, is the work of the waters, which appear to have undermined the strata, making them rush into the sea, where they form a rampart which renders that coast inaccessible. We observed little slopes, which they had formed in rushing down, but which it would have been very difficult to climb. We had approached it so nearly, that it became necessary to get into the offing, where we found twenty fathoms of water, with a bottom of calcareous sand.
28th. Very early in the morning, we saw the land trending towards the north-east, and with the wind at south-west, it was easy for us to follow all its windings. It always presented the same steep rampart, which rose very uniformly to the height of about forty-five toises, and presented, from its top to the level of the sea, the parallel strata of which it is composed.
​About noon, the coast inclined a little towards the south-east, and changed its appearance, being then interspersed with little sandy hills, which, falling with a gentle declivity, were bounded by a very low beach. The sea then assuming a greenish appearance, even in the distant offing, indicated a change of bottom; but a line of fourteen fathoms could not reach it.
The wind soon began to blow very fresh. Experience had taught us to dread the south-west winds, on that coast, which had almost always become impetuous; and therefore we stood S.E. ¼ E. to get into the offing.
The want of water began to be severely felt on board of both the ships, and it was evident that if we could not immediately find a supply of that article, we must in a short time abandon that coast. But if we had begun with its most easterly part, and coasted it from east to west, we would have had the advantage of getting a full supply of water at Cape Diemen; whereas, the half of our's was consumed, when we began to explore the coast, at its most westerly point. This consideration, among many others, is a strong inducement to coast it from east to west. Besides, the impetuosity of the west winds exposes ships to the greatest dangers; while the east winds, ​which are the most constant, never blow with violence.
29th. We were but 1,020 toises from the coast, when the lead indicated a bottom, sometimes of coarse sand, sometimes of rock, the depth varying from nine to twelve fathoms.
At noon, our latitude was 32° 10′ south, and our longitude 124° 52′ east, the nearest land bearing N.N.W. distant 340 toises. It set by compass from N. 69° W. to E. 20° N. In a little time, it reassumed the form of a rampart, like that which we had already coasted; but with this difference, that its upper part rose by a gentle elevation into the interior country. We observed some shrubs, which did not seem to be in so suffering a state, as those which we had seen hitherto on the same coast.
The sea was covered with the species of fucus, called fucus natans, and by the French raisin de mer.
January 1st, 1793. Having been opposed by the easterly winds, we had only reached, about noon this day, 32° 8′ south latitude, and 126° 42′ east longitude, when we saw a fog rise, which every where represented a flat shore; and so striking was the illusion, that persons who came from between decks, thought that we had enter​ed into a vast basin. We were, however, at the distance of 10,200 toises from the coast, which the fog concealed from our view.
In the evening, the sky lowered on the land side; and flashes of lightning darted from the thickest clouds. Then the fog, which encircled the horizon, dissipated, and the wind shifting to the west, became very fresh.
4th. In the evening, Captain Huon acquainted the Commodore with the damage which the rudder of the Esperance had sustained. At the same time, he told us, that on board of his ship, they had long been reduced to an allowance of three quarters of a bottle of water per day; that they had been obliged to discontinue the distribution of antiscorbutic draughts; and that thirty butts of water then composed the whole stock on board the Esperance.
5th. About six o'clock this morning, our Commander sent Captain Huon a letter, letting him know the resolution which he had come to, respecting the situation of the two ships.
At noon; our latitude was 31° 52′ south, and our longitude 129° 10′ east, and we had sight of the land from E. to N. 10° W. being 5,100 toises from the nearest part of it.
As soon as the boat was hoisted in, we stood ​close on our course on the larboard tack, with the wind at E.S.E. steering for Cape Diemen, and abandoning an extremely arid coast, along which we had held our course, above 820,000 toises, in the general direction of W. ¼ S.W to E. ¼ N.E. Fifteen months before us, Vancouver, equally opposed by the east winds, had been forced to abandon his enterprize, after having explored only about 360,000 toises of the coast.
Before we approached that coast, we did not expect to find boisterous winds so frequent, especially at that season, which might have been supposed the finest, in those latitudes, the sun having been then above two months in the southern hemisphere. Is this impetuosity of the winds caused by the prodigious difference, which exists between the cool temperature of the atmosphere over the sea, and the ardour of the solar rays concentrated by the burning sands on the main land?
The currents, experienced on that coast, always conform to the direction of the winds.
The Esperance was in full greater distress than we. Besides, that frigate had sustained several injuries, when last at anchor, and needed an excellent harbour, where she might receive all the necessary repairs.
​At four o'clock no land could be seen, even from the mast-head; and, at the same time, a line of thirty fathoms reached a bottom of fine sand, mixed with broken shells and lythophites. The lead was hove every two hours, and each time it was found that the depth increased two or three fathoms; insensibly augmenting with our distance from the coast.
6th. At six this evening, being then 102,000 toises from the land, a line of seventy-two fathoms indicated a bottom of very fine sand mixed with gravel; and from that moment, no bottom was found, though we sounded at different times. This gradual augmentation of the depth of the sea near that coast, proves that the land subsides under the water by an almost insensible declivity, and gives us reason to believe, that it rises in the interior by an acclivity equally gentle, so that those heights are too distant to be perceived from the coast.
8th. We were carried on the 7th, 23′ to the westward, and this day 21′ in the same direction. At noon, we were in 35° 30′ south latitude. The rapidity of those currents towards the west, perhaps depends on some channel, which separates the lands of New Holland and those of Cape Diemen, between Point Hick and Furneaux's ​Islands. Captain Cook, in exploring the eastern part of New Holland, saw no land in that space, the extent of which is about 102,600 toises, and believed it to be the entrance of a great gulph. Perhaps on that part of the coast, a channel commences, which, after forming different sinuosities, opens westward in the same latitude, in which we experienced such strong currents.
We had no westerly winds, till we reached the fortieth degree of south latitude; and they carried us to Cape Diemen, varying from the south-west to the north-west.
About ten o'clock, we saw at a small distance, a great number of cetaceous fishes, of a new species, which appeared to me to be of the genus delphinus. They were easily distinguished by a large white spot, behind the dorsal fin. The upper part of the body is of a blackish brown, and the belly white. The largest were above nine feet in length. They were preceded by a great number of dolphins (delphinus delphis), and they swam in shoals like them, making, with great rapidity, nearly the same movements with those cetaceous fishes.
We lay to during the night, designing in the morning to make the land, a degree lower in latitude than Cape Diemen. We hoped to dis​cover there a harbour which would afford great advantages to future navigators, who might intend to reconnoitre the south-west coast of New Holland, by availing themselves of the south-west wind.
19th. By half past four in the morning, we saw the land, extending from N.E. ¼ N. to E. ¼ S.E. the nearest part bearing E.N.E., distant 15,400 toises.
For some time we stood on the starboard tack, close upon the wind, which blew from south-west. Two hours afterwards, when we were not more than 7,800 toises from the shore, a line of seventy-five fathoms indicated a bottom of very coarse sand, and broken shells.
The shore we saw was steep, and at a little distance, was a chain of mountains, of moderate elevation, which nearly followed the same direction. The land was almost wholly covered with large trees.
At noon, we were in 42° 51′ S. lat., and 142° 49′ E. long. The land to the north-east, could only be seen through a thick fog, which obscured the whole horizon.
20th. The variation of the compass had very rapidly increased since it became easterly; for it was now observed to be 7° east.
​The coast presented no bights in which we could hope to find good anchorage. At noon, we had arrived in latitude 43° 22′ S., and longitude 143° 28′ E., being but 5,100 toises distant from the land, which, from N. 7° W. to E. 23° S. always presented very high mountains to our view.
At six o'clock in the evening, we doubled the southern cape, at the distance of 10,200 toises. It is remarkable, that in the different windings of the coast, which we followed, we had always the wind a-stern. It appeared to me, that the high mountains, opposing a barrier to the wind, forced them to observe the direction of the coast.
All the other mountains were surpassed in altitude, by that which we saw covered with snow, when we anchored in Port Dentrecasteaux, the preceding year. But as this was a much warmer season, we observed snow only in great excavations, where it was screened from the solar rays, for a considerable part of the day. That mountain is remarkable for a little conical peak, which forms its summit.
At the approach of night, we passed very near the Mew-stone, and soon after we brought to, before a very fresh breeze at west.
We sounded several times with a line of eighty-three fathoms, without reaching the bottom.
​As we were embayed upon the coast, by a wind at S.S.W. we were obliged to tack.
21st. At noon, we were in latitude 43° 44′ S. and longitude 144° 16′ W., when the Mew-stone bore W. 16° 30′ S., the Eddy-stone S.S.E. 1° E. and the nearest land about N.N.W. at the distance of 1,540 toises.
22d. Very early this morning, we were at the entrance of the Bay of Tempests. The wind blowing from the E.S.E. hindered us from entering Dentrecasteaux's Strait, where we intended to anchor in a bay which we had explored the preceding year, and which was extremely commodious for giving our ships all the necessary repairs. But we were obliged to enter the Bay of Rocks, a name, which some rocks almost level with the water, situated near its middle, had induced us to give that bay, which is the first on the larboard, on entering the Bay of Tempests, and lies in the direction of north-east and south-west. The Esperance anchored there in very good time.
Having proceeded up this bay, about one-third part of its length, we found but sixteen feet of water; and consequently it would not have been prudent for us to go farther, without sounding all the way, which was the easier to be done, as ​we had several boats afloat. Cretin, who had taken soundings in this road the preceding year, told our Commander that he would not find less water in it than sixteen feet; and this prevented all farther search. That assertion, however, ought not to have been entirely adopted; for, besides that Cretin had not sounded the bay so deliberately as to be able to inform us respecting its depth within a foot or two, he was in doubt whether or not he had performed that operation at low water, a circumstance which would produce a difference of at least six feet, and consequently would not have left sufficient water for our ship. Notwithstanding these considerations, we did not hesitate to steer to the larboard, and to approach full nearer to the low shore. The consequence was, that we ran a-ground, but fortunately upon a sandy bottom. This accident happened at half an hour past nine o'clock. The wind blowing in heavy squalls, from the high mountains, drove the ship violently towards the shore, and fixed her deeper and deeper into the sand.
The Esperance immediately sent her long-boat and her pinnace, which, in conjunction with our own boats, made vain efforts, on the starboard side of our ship, to tow her off. It then became necessary to carry out an anchor to the W.N.W. ​and to fix the ship by a hawser, to prevent her from being carried nearer the land. Next, in order to lighten her, the salt-water, with which most of our casks were filled, was emptied into the hold, and all the pumps set a-going to pump it out. As soon as we had discharged this ballast, we set the capstan to work upon a large anchor, which had been put down close to the first; but, with our utmost efforts, it was near one P.M. before we could disengage the ship from the sand-bank, and get her fairly afloat.
END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
T. Gillet, Printer, Salisbury-Square.