# A Journey to Lhasa and Central Tibet/Index

INDEX.
Absolution to deceased official, 106.
Acharya Ami, his Svarasvat Vyakarana, 112.
Ailurus ochraceus in Sikkim, 2.
Allowance, for officials travelling, 51, 52; to monks, 79.
Almanac, preparation of, 113.
Altan Khan, first uses the name Dalai lama, 172.
Altars in front of houses in Lhasa, 148.
Amban, the senior and junior, 48; trouble of junior with Tibetan authorities, 48, 50–52; inspections by, 50; expenses for, 51; in procession, 61; goes to Lhasa, 63; his power in Tibet, 178; exactions of, 179; his salary, 180; disliked by Tibetans, 181; author meets him on road, 236.
Amchi, or physician, 41, 55;at Samding gomba, 131; lhamo dancers, 217.
Amdo, province of, 64, 156, 196.
Amolonkha, a sacred rock, 152.
Ani, or nun, 25, 29; meaning concubine, 48.
Animals, not allowed to be killed, 43, 76, 83.
Antelope, in Sikkim, 2.
Apricots, 7; dried, 139.
Aprons of women, 157.
Archery, 202, 260.
Arms, of soldiers, 180.
Army, force of, 180; how recruited, 180.
Arun valley, inhabitants of, 3; river, 38, 39, 42; source of river, 242; upper course, 243. See Che-chu.
Aspergill, used in religious ceremonies, 137.
Asses, wild, 42, 244.
Astrologer making almanac, 113; at funerals, 252, 253.
Atisha, died at Netang, 145; at Samye, 222.
Aton la, 238.
Bachelor of theology, 91.
Bad luck, signs of, 265.
Balpo, or Nepalese, 68.
Bangle worn by women, reason for, 157.
Bangye-shag, residence of Phala, 85; 149, 150, 161.
Banquet, to Tibetan general, 81, 82.
Barat, feast thus called, 59.
Bardo, period between death and regeneration, 140, 255.
Bardon, a district of Khams, 197.
Barley, near Lhasa, 145.
Bathing, house, 102; after summer retirement, 214.
Bears, 2, 14.
Beehives, 15.
Beggars, at Shigatse, 47; alms distributed to, 64, 68, 106; at Lhasa, 156; dancing, 265.
Behor, temple of, 224.
Bellows, 30.
Belung, hamlet of, 74.
Bhutan. See Dugpa.
Birthplace of Tibetans, 229.
Black Court of Lhasa, 174.
Black-water mysteries of Bonbo, 206.
Blessing, 57, 95, 109.
Boats, of skin, 140, 143.
Bogto la, 16, 18.
Bonbo sect, 205; their deities, 205; high priest, 206; mysteries, 206; lamas, 207, 208; moral rules governing them, 208; tenets of their faith, 215.
Books, at Gyantse, 88, 90, 94; arsenical paper used for, 111; search for Sanskrit ones, 112; on lama dances, 118; written by Pan-chen lama, 120; owned by the Dorje Phagmo, 138; of Bonbo at Rigyal Sendar, 206; at Phuntso ling, 209; at Sakya, 210; copied by U. G. at Shendar, 215; at Samye, 222, 225; at Sakya, 241.
Bora, the Shape, 60, 61.
Bra-gyin-pa gomba. See Regyinpai monastery.
Bribery of Chinese officials, 52.
Bridge, bamboo, 1; over the Rummam, 2; over the Kalai, 6; over Rigbi, 8, 14; over Yalung, 21; over Yamatari, 23; over Yangma, 29; at Tashi-rabka, 37; over Nyang chu, 84; of chains over Tsang-po, 143; over Ti chu, 145; over Tong chu, 204; over Tsang-po, 228.
Brigands, 72, 129.
Broadcloth, superior quality made at Pishi Mani Lhakhang, 73; of Tosnam-gyaling, 218.
Broth, Tibetan, 48, 72.
Btsan-tang, plateau of, 233; lha-khang, 233.
Buckwheat, 32, 144, 145.
Buffaloes, 7.
Bur-chu tsan, springs, 204.
Burnt offerings, 203.
Butchering, Tibetan usages, 41.
Cabbages, 83.
Calcutta, goods in Tibet, 68; goods in Gyantse, 85.
Camels, winter pasturage of Pan-chen lama’s, 72.
Campbell, Dr., badly treated, 193.
Cangue, punishment of the, 186.
Cardamom, 1, 2, 6.
Catechu, used by women to smear faces, 157; origin of custom, 157.
Cavalry, how recruited, 180.
Cedar trees, 21.
Cemetery, at Shigatse, 65; at Gyantse, 87; of Lhasa, 163.
Censor carrier of Dalai lama, 167.
Chabug la, 39.
Chagpori, Mount, 145, 195, 196.
Chagri, hamlet of, 237.
Chaini, village of, 29.
Chamdang bird, 20.
Chandra Gomi, his Chandra Vyakarana found, 112.
Chang, national drink of Tibet, 8; its preparation, 23; drinking, 24, 70, 112.
Chang tang, plain of North Tibet, 52, 53; pilgrims from, at Gyantse, 89; travellers from, 119; lamas from, 205, 207.
Chani, village of, 39.
Changachelling monastery, 7.
Charcoal, used as fuel in houses, 60.
Charity, 64, 255.
Chasag, or Chancellor, 173.
Che (or Chi) chu, the Arun river, 42, 244.
Cheese, dried, 48.
Cheri, slaughter-house of Lhasa, 146.
Chess, game of, 260.
Chethang. See Tse-tang.
Chiakri. See Chagri.
Chiblung, village of, 210; valley, 243.
Chim phug, 222, 223.
Chincho-ling, hamlet of, 234.
Chinese, at Shigatse, 48; harsh treatment of Tibetans, 51; aid Tibetans against Sikhs, 53; arrogance of, at Shigatse, 55, 63; in procession, 60; cemetery at Shigatse, 65; in Gyantse, 85, 86; cemetery at Gyantse, 87; in Lhasa, 148, 150; political relations with Tibet, 178, 192, 193, 194; Chinese at Samye, 222; at Tse-tang, 230.
Chitishio Jong. See Kideshor.
Cho, village of, 235.
Choigyal rabtan, ruler of Nyang, 87; books about him, 88; his statue, 89.
Choi-khor-tse. See Chong-khor monastery.
Choilung monastery, 87.
Cho-kanchanjinga, 21, 23.
Choma, an edible root, 125.
Chomo Kankar mountain, 20, 242.
Chongdu-chog lamasery, 234.
Chong-khor monastery, 217.
Chong la. See Shong la.
Chonjom, on the Ringbi, 14.
Chopsticks, used by Tibetans, 82.
Chorka, part of Dobta djong, 244.
Chorten, 3, 7, 30, 32; at Tashilhunpo, 45; at Gyantse, 88; great ones in Tibet, 9; at Potala, 168; of Bonbo, 206; at Samye, 222; at Jong, 227; made of human ashes, 257.
Chorten-gang, 3.
Chorten Nyima river, 40.
Chosthor-gyal phodang. See Phodang djong.
Chos-gya, in Kong po, 161.
Choskhor-lhunpo monastery, 242.
Chu lonkyok. See Chum-bok la.
Chum-bok la, 17, 18, 19.
Chumbi, 73; traders from, at Shigatse, 104.
Chumig-gang, hamlet of, 145.
Chumo-lha ri, 87.
Chung, a name of Limbus, 3.
Chung Rivoche, 143.
Chunjorma mountain, 21, 22.
Chu-sho, village of, 242.
Chu-shu, brook, 242.
Chu-shul djong, 144.
Chuta, village of, 43.
Chuta Chyangma, village of, 72.
Chyabtam lama, tells a rich man how to escape evil birth, 64.
Chyag-dso-pa, or Treasurer, 80, 94, 95.
Chyag-na dorje, the god, 153; miracle working image of, 153.
Chyag-tsal gang, place of prayer-meeting, 198, 199.
Chyamba, the future Buddha, 152.
Chyang chu, village of, 70, 102, 124, 125.
Chyang-chub gya-lam, 33.
Chyangjob, household officer of Panchen lama, 55.
Chyasa lha-khang, sanctuary, 234.
Chyi-khyab Khanpo, or Prime Minister, 173.
Chyi-lon Hutuketu. See Minister.
Chying-sang, a name given the Kalon, 174.
Chyugpo mepang family, 39.
Chyugpu Shung, plateau of, 72.
Circumambulating, 78, 88; by Bonbo, 206, 211.
Club dance, 210.
Coin, debased, forced circulation of, 48; exchange of Indian coin for Tibetan, 49.
Complimentary address, 31, 32, 68, 264.
Conch shell, 242.
Contracts, how prepared, 190.
Corpse thrown into Lake Dumo, 139, 140; fed to vultures and dogs, 164; to pigs, 169; how disposed of by Bonbo, 208; of Panchen lama, 214; of children, how disposed of, 220; stone on which cut up, 232, 254; how treated on death, 252; releasing the spirit, 252; corpses of pregnant and barren women, 255; of lepers, 256; of incarnate lamas, 256; burning of corpses, 256; disposal of ashes, 257.
Cotton, 2.
Courier service, 177, 185.
Corvees, 182, 183, 184.
Courts, of Lhasa, 174.
Cranes, seen on Nyang chu, 72, 83, 125.
Cushions, 70.
Custom dues, 30, 31, 184.
Daba ngonpo, "blue clay," 28.
Dab-lung, village of, 140.
Dabung monastery, 146; by whom founded, 171; judicial power of Abbot, 177; revenues of, 182; annual rule of Dabung monks over Lhasa, 266.
Dacoity, penalty for, 186; ordeal for proving, 189.
Dahpon, or general, 51, 70, 80; of Gyantse, 86; where stationed, 180; social rank of, 246.
Dalai lama, collection of hymns by, 63; picture of the first receiving throne of Tibet, 79; ordination of, 104; enthronement of, 104; palace of father of, 147; mode of selecting, 159–161; discovery of latest incarnation, 161; audience of, 165; description of, 167; audience hall of fifth Dalai lama, 169; his position in Buddhist church, 170; incarnation of Shenrezig, 171; first one, 171; successors, 172; become sovereigns of Tibet, 172; origin of name, 172; majority at eighteen, 173; his throne at Samye, 222; his kitchen, 262; mode of preparing food for, 262; New Year's levee, 264.
Dam-ra, or "grove in a swamp," 149.
Dance by Tibetan girl, 108; by professionals, 217, 262, 265; on New Year’s day, 263, 265. See also Lama.
Dao-targe, village of, 76.
Darchendo, the town of, 156. See also Ta-chien-lu.
Darchung djong, 75. See also Tuchung Jong.
Darding sergo tamo temple, 206.
Darjiling, 1; Tibetan pottery sold at, 66; railway a danger for Chinese trade, 193; return to, 245.
Daru, near Lhasa, 146.
Dates, dried, 101.
Dayan Khan, 172.
Dayan Khanpo, feared his spirit might exercise evil influence, 161; expelled by Sakya Panchen, 240, 241.
Death, Lord of, weighing men’s acts, 93; his image, etc., in commemoration ceremony, 203; spirit after, 252; period before rebirth, 255.
Deba, or chief, 70.
Deba Shikha, 70, 102, 123, 124, 201.
Dechan phodang, of Tashilhunpo, 60.
Dechan phug, haunted cave, 13.
Dechan rolpa monastery, 21, 22.
Dechen, village of, 221.
"Deceiving death," ceremony of, 134; life, ceremony of, 134.
Deki rabdan, village of, 70.
Demalung. See Tamalung.
Densatil, monastery of, 226; its founder, 227.
Deodar tree, 23, 29.
Dephu, village of, 140.
Desi, or regent, 172, 246.
Devil, burnt in effigy, 118.
Dewan, ex, of Sikkim, his influence in Tibet, 192, 193.
Dhunkota valley, 20.
Dhuramdien, valley of, 3.
Diba Dongtse, castle of, 98.
Dice used for divination, 134; game of, 260.
Ding-naga, meadow of, 235.
Ding-pon, or lieutenant, 86.
Dipankara Buddha, 152; feast in his honour, 199.
Divination, modes used for selecting incarnate lamas, 159.
Divorce, 250, 251.
Djari tang, 29.
Djong, or prefectural town, 177; dso, or prefectural store-house, 177; shi, or prefectural lands, 177; accounts, 182.
Djim-khar, village of, 143.
Djong-nyer, or sub-prefect, 51, 176; their number, 182.
Djongpon, or prefect, 51; of Phagri, 73; appeals against to Lhasa, 174; their duties, 176, 177; their number, 176, 182; their salaries, 177, 182; social rank of, 246.
Do, village of, 226.
Doche, ingot of silver, equivalent terms for, 51, 183.
Do la, 29.
Dobta djong, 210, 244; Lachan la, 243; mountains, 244.
Dog, mad, 76; pariah, re-embodiment of sinful lamas, 119; watch-dogs of Yamdo famous, 131; kept for hunting by Panchen lama, 211.
Dogang, village of, 243.
Dogbane, 2.
Dog tsang, village of, 72.
Doi. See Panam-gang.
Dokpas, Tibetan pastoral tribes, 52; dress of women, 67.
Dolma, the goddess, incarnate in Dorje phagmo, 138; turquoise image of in Ramoche, 165; in Machig labdron, 228.
Dolmai ri, mount behind Tashilhunpo, 118.
Dombu choskhor or monastery, 218.
Dong khang, traveller’s bungalow, 13.
Dong la, 242.
Dong-sho, village of, 234.
Dongtse, town of, 45, 49; invitation to visit, 60, 68; leave for, 69; arrival at, 76; monastery of, 76; the Kham-tsan of at Shigatse, 119; second trip of S. C. D. to, 121; visits it third time, 125; fourth visit to, 196.
Donkar, village of, 146, 242.
Donnyer, a civil officer, 264; social rank, 246; chempo of Potala, 168.
Dora chu-tsan, hot springs, 211.
Doring, village of, 70.
Dorje jig-je, Lord of death, 126.
Dorje phagmo, incarnate female saint, 131; tells author’s fortune, 132, 134; performs religious ceremonies for his recovery, 133, 134, 137; throws dice for divination, 134; power to restrain waters of lake, 136; tombs of predecessors, 136, 137; her residence, 138; description of present incarnation, 138; peculiar habits of, 138; incarnation of Dolma, 138; origin of incarnation, 139; saves monastery from invaders, 139.
Dorje-tag mountains, 35; ghat, 219; monastery, 220.
Dowa targya. See Dao-targe.
Dragon-head pillars of Jo Khang, 163.
Dress of lady of rank, 121, 127; of Dalai ​lama, 167; of Kalon, 174; of Bonbo lamas, 207; of hostess at Samye, 221.
Dropsy in Tibet, its treatment, 260.
Drum beating, by Limbus, 4, 11.
Dsambling gyan, tomb of Dalai lama, 169.
Dsamling gyeshe, an historical work, 62; copied for author, 68.
Dsongo stage house, 36.
Ducks, wild on Nyang chu, 83.
Dugpa, sect of lamas, 129.
Dugpa, a name of Bhutan, origin of name, 129.
Dugpa-kunleg, saint of the red hat lamas, 92, 94.
Du khang, or congregation hall, 78, 79, 95.
Dukpa-nagpa, old Shaman town, 75.
Du la, 15, 16.
Dumo tso, or Devil’s lake, 136.
Dung khor, civil officer, 75, 145; their number, how chosen, 175; their salaries, 176; social rank, 246.
Dung-yig, or clerk, 67; social rank, 246.
Dye plant, 213.
Dyspepsia, its varieties, 260.
Dzo, a weight, a tenth of a srang, 150.
Earring, 24, 30, 82.
Earthquakes, destroy Samye, 225.
Eclipses, religious ceremonies when they occur, 261.
Eggs, not eaten by lamas, 98.
Elephant, sent by Rajah of Sikkim to Lhasa, 100; difficulty of road for, 144; shed at Lhasa, 169.
Eleusine coracana. See Murwa.
Embalmment, 214, 256.
Emperor of China, worship of, 60; ratifies appointment of regent, 173.
Epidemic, annual, at Lhasa, 259.
Estates, great ones of Tibet, 183.
Exorcising evil spirits, 101.
Fable, the leopard and the ass, 198.
Feasts, 25th of 10th month, 56; of new moon, 64, 106; given general at Dongtse, 81; New Year’s day, 107, 112, 120; pre-Buddhist feast, 108; on date of Buddha’s death, 150; prayer-meeting in June, 198, 199; 15th of 8th moon, 199; July 19, great holiday, 201; harvest, 214; midsummer, 261; annual feasts, 261. See also New Year.
Feylep valley, 20.
Fines, in lieu of punishments, 187.
Fir trees, 218.
Fish, let loose as charity, 134; not eaten for a year by order of Dalai lama, 141; used as manure, 220.
Fishing, 2, 6.
Flagpoles, 149, 151.
Floor, made of mosaic, 78.
Flutes, 57, 108.
Fog, 234.
Foreigners, policy of Tibet regarding, 181, 192.
Fortune telling, 132, 134; forbidden, 212.
Fossils, as relics in temple, 227.
Foxes, 39, 245.
Funeral, feast, 68, 257; rites of Bonbo, 208; of Panchen lama, 214; persons forbidden to be present at, 253, 254; ceremonies, 254, 255.
Gadan, monastery of, its revenues, 182.
Gadan Gyahu, the usurper, 75.
Gadan khangsar, palace of, 172.
Gadan namchoi, birthday of Tsongkhapa, 56.
Gadan namgyal-ling, sanctuary of, 233.
Games, 260.
Gampo, or elder, 52.
Gandan Chakhang in Gyantse, 84; chapel in, 85, 89; description of, 91.
Gang. See Panam-gang.
Gar, attacked by the Sikhs, 53.
Garden, at Jorgya, 73; near Dongtse, 99; party, 201.
Gar, General of King Srong-btsan, 168.
Garpon, or governor of fortress, 53.
Garrison of Gyantse, 86.
Gartok, 70.
Ge river, 38.
Ge-chung, village of, 237.
Gedun-dub, founder of Tashilhunpo, 114; juniper tree grown from his hair, 119; reincarnate in first Dalai lama, 171.
Gedun-gyatso, the Tale lama, 63; becomes head of Dabung monastery, 171; first Dalai lama, 171; monastery founded by, 226.
Geese, wild, on Nyang chu, 83.
Gelong, or priest, 59; ordination of, 120, 126.
Gelugpa Church, feasts of, 56; image of ​its supreme Buddha, 89; forbid use of wine, 90.
Gen-gang, boundary of Sikkim, 245.
Geru, village of, 244.
Gingu la, 75.
Glak-los, wild people, 258.
Goat, wild, in Sikkim, 2; at Karma, 42; stuffed at Gyantse, 91; wild, near Yamdo tso, 140; near the tsomo Tel-tung, 244.
Gods, of land and mountains, 32.
Goitse, at Kangpa-chan, 23; in other parts of Tibet, 258; treatment of, 258.
Gojogs, a mendong at Gyantse, 87.
Gok, village of, 1.
Golab Sing, his war with Lhasa, 53.
Golden jar, used for selecting Dalai lama, 160.
Golog, their country, 196; their customs and religion, 197; kissing among them, 197.
Gondang-tangme, valley of, 231. See also Yarlung.
Gongkhar, djong, 218, 235; mountains, 235.
Gon-po, the god, 169.
Gonpoi ri, 229.
Good luck, sign of, 166; how insured for the year, 264; dance, 264; signs watched for on New Year’s day, 265.
Greyhound, 99.
Guilt offering ceremony, 263, 264.
Guma shara, village of, 37, 38.
Gumo tang, 16.
Gungri gung-btsan, Prince, 168.
Gure, village of, 243.
Guring tribe of Limbus, 20.
Gushi Khan, the conqueror of Tibet, 79.
Gya, or Chinese, 52.
Gya-bum gang, square of, 155. See also Tomse-gang.
Gyade country, 205.
Gyal-tsab, or regent, 172. See also Desi.
Gyampo, or elder, 176.
Gyantse djong, 63; general at, 80; town of, 80; author wishes to visit it, 81; description of, 84; market at, 85; ancient province of, 87; climate of, 88.
Gyapon, or captain, 86.
Gyarong, the district of, 76; lamas from, 205.
Gyatso-shar, village of, 70, 196, 200; beauty of, 201.
Gyatu-ling, village of, 235.
Gyerpal, village of, 234.
Gyunsar, village of, 23, 27.
Haboi ri of Samye, 221, 224.
Hailo, village of, 140.
Hall, of worship, 57; of departed saints, 214.
Hamdang Kham-tsan, 73.
Hares, 20, 39, 83, 144.
Harman, Captain, 26, 41.
Harvest, lucky day to begin it, 213.
Hat, 30, 40; of lamas, 69; worn in lama dances, 114; taking off, 31, 95, 107; felt, 203.
Hayagriva, 22, 137.
Headdresses, of Tibetan women, 38, 55, 67, 85, 221; origin of, 157; peculiar of the Dungkhor, 176; value of, 200.
Hermits, 228, 232.
Hi, range, vegetation on, 4; village of, 5, 7; view from pass (Hi la), 5.
Hooker, Dr., meets Phurchung, 22; attempt to enter Tibet, 192, 193.
Horba, met at Tos nam-gyaling, 218; bring salt to Samye, 226.
Horn, 57.
Horses, richly ornamented, 52; hoof revered, 114, 116.
Hoshang Dharma-tala, the, 115.
House, in Tashilhunpo, 45, 46; no chimney, 60; outside decoration, 69, 72; interior of, at Tashigang, 74; at Kye-pa Khangsar, 96; of lama at Samding, 132, 135; of noble at Lhasa, 150, 162; ceremonies for consecrating new home, 202, 203.
Hydrophobia, treatment of, 257.
Iago, village of, 43, 75.
Illumination, of Tashilhunpo, 56.
Images, holy, at Dongtse, 78; at Gyantse, 89, 90; metal out of which made, 100; painted on rocks, 142, 145; in Jo khang at Lhasa, 151, 152, 153, 157; in Potala, 168; at Ombu lha-khang, 230.
Impostor, claims discovery of sacred volumes, 94.
Incarnate lama, 56; college of, 57; received as novice, 57; female one, 131; (see Dorje phagmo), degraded for ​adultery, 133; mode of selection of, 159, 160, 161.
Indian corn, 1, 7, 8, 24, 29.
Inoculation of small-pox, 257.
Inscription, relating to founding of Tashilhunpo, 114; gigantic, on rocks, 123; on stone in Tibetan and Chinese at Lhasa, 148, 151.
Interest on money, 190, 191.
Invocation to mountain deities, 5, 18.
Irrigation, 39; canals, 72, 73, 76.
Isa, village of, 76.
Jah-hu tang, parade ground, 65.
Jail, horrors of Tibetan, 186.
Jaisang Teba, the Desi, 172.
Jang, village of, upper and lower, 144. See also Jong.
Je Kadub rinpoche, Bon high priest, 206.
Je la, 205.
Jelap la, value of road, 194.
Jerong, district of, 209.
Jetsun Tinlas-tsomo, founder of Samding monastery, 136.
Jig-kyong, camp of, 238.
Jong, village of, 226, 228; temple at, 227.
Jong Luguri, village of, 43. See also Luguri djong.
Jongri, 21; la, 15, 16.
Jorgya, village of, 72, 73.
Jo-vo, "the Lord," his image, 78; of Lhasa, 78, 151; — khang, 149, 150; see also Kyil-khording; description of temple, 151, 152, 153, 154; second visit to, 157; statue in, 157; pillars of temple, 163; copy of, at Tandub, 230.
Jungars, attack Samding, 139; especially inimical to Nyingma sect, 141; miracle, 141, 142; sack Rigyal Sendar, 206; pillage Mindol-ling, 235.
Juniper, erroneously called "sandalwood," 13; grown from hair of saint, 119; along Tib chu, 218.
Juonga, mountain, 21. See also Cho Kangchan Juonga .
Justice, courts of, 174, 177, 178; administration of, 186.
Kabili river, 19, 21, 22.
Kabsopa, or chief clerk, 175.
Kabu la, 217.
Ka-che, or Kashmiri, 228.
Kadong, monastery of, 74.
Kadung, or secretary, 173; their number, 175.
Kahdong monastery, 76.
Kalai river, 6.
Kalliat river. See Kalai.
Kalon, or ministers of State, 173; their dress, 174; how chosen, 174.
Kal-zang zamba, 141.
Kamai phugpa, 28.
Kamab, a class of dancers, 263.
Kambachen. See Kangpa-chan.
Kampa lacha. See Khamba partshi.
Kang, a land measure, 86, 180, 182.
Kangchan mountain, 15; river, 23.
Kangla chen pass, 24, 29, 34, 35.
Kangla jang-ma peak, 18.
Kangla Nangmo la, 21.
Kangpa-chan, village of, 12, 23; cultivation at, 24; departure from, 27; monastery at, 31; valley, 22; early inhabitants of, 26; their fights with the Magar, 27; road to, 29.
Kangyur, reading of, 30; copy at Manding gomba, 31; at Dongtse, 126.
Kang zang-po mountain, 129.
Kargya, or purwana, 176; reserve store, 177.
Karma, a hundredth of an ounce, 184.
Karma Bagshi, a celebrated lama, 145.
Karmapa sect, old lamasery of, 75.
Karmoling, pasture lands of, 217.
Kashag, or ministers' council hall, 174.
Kashmir, envoy arrives at Tashilhunpo, 52; why sent, 53; war between Golab Sing and Tibet, 53; people of in Lhasa, 146, 150; lax Mohammedans, 146; man at Tse-tang, 228; people at Tse-tang, 230.
Katmandu, 68, 228.
Kedesho Jong. See Kideshor .
Kega tsal cemetery, 65.
Kemai tsal, grove of, 147.
Kena, village of, 72.
Kesar Lhakhang, temple of Kuan-ti (Kuan-ti miao of the Chinese), at Shigatse, 52.
Keshong, village of, 205.
Keta, near the Ringbi, 14.
Khama kang tung, 28.
Ke-utag village, 217.
Khal, a dry measure, 182.
Khamba, 24; their lawlessness, 47; met near Dongtse, 76; attack ex-Dewan of Sikkim, 87, 88; quarrel in Shigatse market, 107; lama, 156; estimate of character, 156.
Khamba chyang tang, 142.
Khamba jong, 40, 50, 56, 59, 65, 216; the Djongpon of, stops Phurchung on his way to India, 102; return of author to, 244; its waterworks, 244.
Khamba la, 142.
Khamba partshi, village of, 142.
Khamdo, province of, 56, 64; lamas from, 240.
Khamedo, village of, 217.
Kham-yol, 238.
Khando phug, 22.
Khang-nyer, or house-keeper, 149.
Khang-toi shikha, in Lhasa, 92.
Khara Tedong, village of, 70.
Khatag, or complimentary scarf, 32, 49, 55, 78, 83, 95, 125, 128, 184; red ones given by Dalai lama, 168.
Khamba barchi. See Khamba partshi and Kampa lacha.
Kharnang-phu chu, river, 129, 130.
Kharo la, 129.
Khede-sho, town of, 218, 235.
Khon family, 210.
Khraldupa, or tax-collector, 177, 184.
Khunpodo village, 217.
Khyab-gong, a lama title, 132.
Khyungar, village of, 228.
Kiki-naga, residence of Panchen's mother, 120.
Kiku-tamsa, a storehouse, 119; pictures hung up on it, 119, 199.
Kinkab, or brocaded silk, 60, 127.
Kingfisher, or Nyang chu, 84.
Ki phug, 33.
Kirata tribes, 3, 26.
Kirong, district of, 52.
Kissing among the Golog, 197.
Kitchen of Dalai lama, 262.
Kon-chog sum, used to translate "god," 77.
Konjo, the Princess, brings image of Buddha to Tibet, 151; other services rendered by her, 151; temple built by, 155; founds Ramoche, 165; her image at Potala, 168.
Kongpo, province of, 125, 161, 183; goitre prevalent in, 258; Gyamda, town of, 161.
Kongra lamo pass, 237, 245.
Korchagpa, or policeman, 148.
Kosi river, its source, 242.
Kotowing, 82, 95.
Kuchar khanpo, official of Dalai lama’s household, 167.
Ku-dag, or gentleman, 165.
Kumba karna mountain, 15.
Kunduling, palace of regent, 147; monastery, 73.
Kunga nyingpo, hierarch of Sakya, 240.
Kunga zangbo, of Sakya, 240.
Kun-khyab ling, palace of Panchen lama, 57, 61, 211.
Kunyer, or keeper of holy images, 84, et pas.
Kurim, or guilt offering ceremony, 263, 264.
Kurma, village of, 42, 43, 211.
Kushi Khan, confers sovereignty of Central Tibet on Dalai lama, 172.
Kutuketu, a Mongol, 126.
Kyab-dvang chenpo. See Minister of Temporal Affairs.
Kye-na. See Kena.
Kye-pa Khangsar, minister’s house at, 94, 95.
Kyi chu, the river of Lhasa, 144, 145; rock which keeps back its waters from Jo khang, 163.
Kyil khang Ta-tsan, 119.
Kyi-phug nunnery, 102.
Kyil-khording temple, 149, 150; square in front of, 155; New Year's ceremonies at, 265. See also Jo-vo Khang.
Kyishong, village of, 235.
Kyoga, village of, 211.
Labrang, or episcopal palace, of Tashilhunpo, 62, 69; full name given, 120; at Sakya, 239.
Labrang dokpa (camp), 43, 211.
Lachan, frontier post, 40, 50, 59, 77.
Lachang pass, 84; shortest road to Sikkim, 84.
Lachmi pokri, lake, 16.
Ladak, pilgrims from, at Gyantse, 89.
La dug, mountain sickness, 15, 17.
Lamas, at Tashilhunpo, 48; music by, 57; noviciate of, 57; studies, 91; taking ​vows, 113; early rivers, 113; dance, 114, 117, 118, 204, 210, 263; from Khams, as traders, 156; officials, 176; revenues of, 182.
Lamb skins, lining of clothing, 67.
Lampokri. See Tama chu lake.
Lamps, lit on New Year's eve, 120.
Lamteng valley, monkeys in, 2.
Langbu la, 38.
Langdarma, King, 153; destroys Samye, 225.
Lang la, 237.
Langma, village of, 129.
Lap-chyi peak, 18, 20.
Larche tree, 23, 29.
Lasa, village of, 209.
Lawsuits, how settled, 178.
Lebor, a measure of distance, 185.
Leeches in Sikkim, 5.
Leopards in Sikkim, 14, 18; snow leopards, 20; stuffed at Gyantse, 91.
Lepchas, their fishing, 2; mode of killing monkeys, 2; notices on, 5; priests, 6; marriage, 6; burials, 6; no religion, 7; paradise, 21.
Leprosy, its cause and treatment, 259, 260.
Letter writing, difficulty in Tibetan, 49.
Lha-bab ri, sanctuary of, 232.
Lhacham, or lady of rank, 121; stops at Nangartse, 130; her drawing-room, 161 arranges audience with Dalai lama for S. C. D., 165; to whom title given, 174.
Lhadong, village of, 210.
Lhagpa-tsering, the charity of, 64.
Lhakha, peak of, 38.
Lha khang, or temple, 31.
Lhalu, the Shape, 51, 66.
Lhamo sung chyong-ma, oracle of, 173, 211.
Lhari-zim phug, monastery, 88; books at, 88.
Lhartse djong, 209.
Lhasa, tribute sent it by Kashmir, 52; its war with Kashmir, 53; stops travel to and from India, 63; road to, best season to travel, 85; enforces strict rules as to foreign travel, 103; protests against Panchen taking vow of monkhood, 120; S. C. D. advised not to stay long at, 128; first view of, 145, 146; enters city, 147; description of streets, 148, 149, 150; filth in streets, 155; view of from Potala, 166; author leaves, 195.
Lhasre, a title, 126; to whom given, 174.
Lha-tsun, Buddhist saint, legend connected with, 21; lived at Manding gomba, 30, 31; founded Dongtse gomba, 78; books concerning, 88.
Lhena djong, 72.
Lhimpotse, village of, 237.
Lhokha country, 216.
Lholing, village of, 66.
Lhopas, Southerns, 21; various kinds of, 125; marriage customs of, 125; raid country round Lake Palti, 216.
Limbudu, country of the Limbu, 3, 4.
Limbus, their fishing, 2; tilling, 3; early habit at, 3; called Chung by Lepchas, 3; houses, 3; customs, 4; cultivation, 6; priests, 6; physicians, 7; woman, 9; marriages, 10; divination, 11; use khatag, 12; burial services, 12; a Limbu legend, 20.
Ling, the four great of Lhasa, 173; of Samye, 222.
Ling, village of, 217.
Lingbo chen. See Lhimpotse.
Lingcham, village of, 5, 7.
Lingkor, circumambulation, 87; of Lhasa, 169.
Lithographic press, brought to minister, 50, 59; fear it might spread small-pox, 105; first printing on, 107.
Lito phug, division of Gyantse, 87, 91.
Lobding, country place of minister, 70.
Logang ferry, 228.
Loh-bu Jong. See Ling.
Lomba hills, 221.
Lora, village of, 242.
Luguri djong, 43, 211. See also Jong Luguri.
Lu khang, or "snake house," of the Jo khang, 163; palladium of Tibet preserved in, 163.
Lumber for Lhasa, 221.
Lungkyong chu, 29.
Lungmo la, 14.
Lung ta, or "wind horse," 149; keeps off leprosy, 259.
Lupa gyaltsan, a friend of author's, 50, 104, 107.
Machen, or chief cook, 45.
Machig labdron, saint, 227, 228.
Magar tribe, 26.
Mahakala, a patron god, formerly Matrankaru, 139.
Maitreya, image of, at Gyantse, 90; at feast at Shigatse, 199; worship of, 200.
Mamo, the goddesses, or she-devils, 22; towers sacred to, 76; images of, 99.
Manda phug, 22; la, 22.
Manding monastery, 29, 30; its importance, 31.
Manidara, 3.
Mantra (charms) recited, 34, 41; author not proficient in, 59; continual repetition of, 90.
Mapham, lake, 53.
Map-ja, village of, 242.
Magpon, or general, 178.
Mang ja, or "general tea," 132, 133, 205.
Mani lhakhang, or prayer wheel temple, 73, 74, 76; of Tashilhunpo, 119.
Market of Shigatse, provisions brought, 69.
Markham, the province of, 76.
Marmots, 242.
Marriage ceremonies of Bonbo, 208; customs of Tibet, 247–250; forbidden degrees of consanguinity, 251; polyandric, 251, 252.
Marsh, near Lhasa, 146.
Mastiffs, chained before gate, 70; stuffed at Gyantse, 91.
Matrankaru, the demon, 138; destroyed by Tamdrin, 139. See also Mahakala.
Maudgalyayana, disciple of the Buddha, 152; his bill preserved at Lhasa, 152.
Mayaphug, 29.
Me agtsoms, King, orders the Tsang-po to be whipped, 221.
Meals, at Tashilhunpo, 46, 48, 49; supplied tailor, 62; with the Deba Shikha, 71, 72; of high officials, 82; with minister, 83, 98, 99; with Lupa gyaltsan, 107.
Medicine, given by S. C. D. to Tibetans, 41, 54, 98; bought at Darjiling, 42; given to Tibetan lady, 121; given him by the Dorje phagmo, 132, 133; by lamas, 134; used by Tibetans, 257.
Melung, village of, 217.
Mende, village of, 41.
Mendong, or stone piles, 3, 4, 15, 32, 64, 69, 87; of Bonbo, 206.
Mice, tame in chapel, 159.
Mikyod dorje, the god, 155.
Milarapa, saint, a legend concerning, 153, 154.
Militia, Tibetan, 40; commanded by Amban, 178; how recruited, 180.
Mindol-ling lamasery, 234, 235.
Minister, Prime, 173; Council of Ministers, 173; duties of, 173, 174.
Minister of Temporal Affairs of Tsang, 41, 51; letter to, 49; his country house at Lobding, 70; receives author at Dongtse, 76; his literary work, 78, 80; talk with author, 80; learns to write Roman characters, 81; learning English, 83; his mother visits him, 94; exorcises evil spirits, 101; wants to learn surveying, 101; promises to facilitate author’s journey to Lhasa, 101; promises to send S. C. D. to Lhasa, 106; studies with author, 108; speaks Mongol, 109; interest in astronomy, 109; views on stars, 110; lodges S. C. D. in his residence, 110, 111; does not eat in the afternoon, 112; speaks of Panchen of S. C. D., 120; ordains priests, 120; S. C. D. takes leave of, 128; stricken with small-pox, 169, 196; writes in Roman character, 202.
Mint of Lhasa, 171.
Mipon, or headman, 176.
Mirkan la, 22.
Mirkan Pandita, a Mongol, 124.
Mishmis, the, 123.
Misser, peasantry or serfs, 51; how to be treated by officials, 177; property of, 182.
Missionaries, feared in Tibet, 193.
Mitogang road, 2.
Mi-wang, King, his birthplace, 75.
Miza lakelet, 32.
Mongol, in Tashilhunpo, 48; lama, failed at examination, 48; punishment for forgery, 56; pilgrims at Tashilhunpo, 109.
Monkeys in Sikkim, 2.
Monks, admission to the Kham tsan order, 57.
Mon lam, or prayer meeting, 198, 262, 265.
Month, fourth, the holiest, 133.
Mourning, signs of, 203; on death of Panchen lama, 214, 256; of abbots and others, 256.
Mountain sickness, see la-dug; tops, prayer and offering, 142.
Mudang phug, 22.
Mug, village of, 39.
Mu-li-ding-ki tso, image of new Dalai lama appears on its waters, 161.
Murder, punishment for, 187; ordered for proving, 189.
Murmis, at Shigatse with envoy of Kashmir, 52.
Murwa, bier, 3; fields of, 7.
Musk deer, 29; near Yamdo tso, 140.
Nabso la, 141.
Nachung chos-kyong, oracle of, 146; description of temple, 146; consulted as to successor of Dalai lama, 160; of regent, 173; of Sakya Panchen, 241.
Nagshu chyema, 221.
Nagtsa-shar, or Black Court, 174.
Nag-wang lob-zang, the fifth Dalai lama, 169; first sovereign of Tibet, 172.
Nag-wang lo-zang tubdan gya-tso, the present Dalai lama, 161; description of, 167.
Naga, district of, 123.
Nagpa, or sorceress, 75, 109; — khang, 114, 118.
Nag-wang kun-bzang, a Dorje phagmo, 137.
Na-Pematang, paradise of the Lep-chas, 21.
Nairanjana, sand from the river, 152.
Nam, hamlet of, 144.
Nambu, village of, 43; la, 43.
Nambura, village of, 8, 10.
Namga stream, 21.
Namga-tsal, 13, 21.
Namgyal Ta-tsan, of Lhasa, 143, 168, 169.
Namring monastery, 78, 209.
Nangartse djong, 63, 129, 130, 140.
Nango ferry, 228; la, 22, 38, 29.
Nanin monastery, 87.
Nari ta-tsang, monastery of, 226.
Naring, village of, 211.
Nartang, town of, 70, 237.
Natog, village of, 72.
Ne-dong djong, 230.
Nembotong, village of, 75.
Nepal, war with Tibet, 36; friendly relations with Tibet, 181.
Nepalese, at Shigatse, 52; their trade with Tibet, 68; in Gyantse, 85; in Lhasa, 149, 150; in Samye, 222; at Tse-tang, 230.
Nesar, village of, 76.
Netang, village of, 144, 145, 196.
Nettle, giant, in Sikkim, 5, 7.
New moon ceremonies, 133.
New Year’s Day, 107; festivities for, 112, 113, 260, 262–266.
Ngambu dung la. See Nambu la.
Niru chu, 87.
Noga slope, camp at, 17.
Noijinhamara temple, 224.
Noi-jin kang-zang mountains, 87, 129.
Noijin norpa zang-po mountain, 129.
Non chu, 208.
Norbu gang, hamlet of, 145.
Norbu linga, palace of, 147.
Norgya Nangpa, 72.
Norpa khyung-djin, ruins of lamasery, 75, 123.
Num chu, its course, 70.
Nuns, 121; and monks living together, 232.
Nyagpa, or sorceress. See Nagpa.
Nya-kri btsan-po, King, 230, 232.
Nyang choi jung Nyimai odser, title of historical work, 94.
Nyang chu, 72, 73, 75; extent and fertility of, 83; source of, 87; an affluent of, 101; headwaters of, 129; bathing in, 214.
Nyema lung. See Melung.
Nyen. See Nango ferry.
Nyer-tam. See Netang.
Nyingma, sect of lama, 37; impostor of, claims discovery of sacred volumes, 94; nuns, wear long hair, 121; Palti djong one of its strongholds, 141; holiest shrine of, 232; colour of buildings, 238. See also Red-hat sect.
Oath, form of, in Tibet, 107.
Offerings to gods, 78, 134; at a haunted spot, 141; on tops of mountains, 142.
Om-dse, or master of ceremonies, 115, 205.
Om mani padme hum, cut on rocks, 38; when recited, 55.
Oma tang, plateau of, 129, 236.
Ombu lha-khang, palace of, 230; village of, 230.
Omens, watched for on New Year’s Day, 265.
Onions, wild, 7.
Oranges, 7; in Gyantse, 92.
Orchard, at Pishi mani lhakhang, 73.
Ordeals, 188–190.
Paddy fields, in Sikkim, 3.
Padma Sambhava, identified with the Limbu Srijanga, 4; image painted on temple, 76; his birthday, 210; his cave at Samye, 222; his prophecy concerning Samye, 224; driven away by Bonbo, 225; his cell, 232.
Painam. See Panam-gang.
Pa la, 210.
Palchen chuvori, monastery of, 143; by whom built, 143.
Paldan lhamo, image of at Lhasa, 154, 158; mice in her chapel, 159. See also Srimati devi .
Paljor rabtan, house in Lhasa, 149.
Palkhor choide, great temple of Gyantse, 81; visit to, 83; chorten of, 84; surveyed, 86; by whom founded, 88; description of, 90.
Palmistry, esteemed in Tibet, 97.
Palmoi-pal tang, desert of, 154.
Palri, 75. See also Pe li.
Palri Kusho, the lama, 88.
Palti, lake, 130; djong, 141; origin of name, 141; town saved by miracle, 141, 142; passed through, 196, 236. See also Yamdo-yum tso.
Palti Shabdung, a saint who saved Palti djong, 141.
Panam-gang, village of, 72; doi, 74; district, of, 74; djong, 88.
Panchen lama, 56; attends an ordination, 57; his blessing, 57; description of, 57; receives the Amban, 62; punished for doubting gods, 89; visit to Lhasa, 104; his literary work, 118; Lhasa Government accuses him of heresy, 118; mode of selection of, 160; sovereignty of Ult. Tibet given him by Kushi Khan, 172; audience to Amban, 179; belief he will leave Tibet, 180; its consequence, 181; independent spirit of, 181; when absent from ceremonies how represented, 198; fatal illness of, 202; death of, 203; cause of, 203, 204; war of Bonbo stock, 207; incidents connected with death of 211, 212; his funeral, 214.
Pangang, village of, 75. See also Pong kong.
Pangbo la, 22.
Pangri, hamlet of, 76.
Pankor shornub, mountains of, 72.
Panza, village of, 235.
Paongtang, 13.
Parade ground, at Shigatse, 65.
Paralysis, prevalence of, 259.
Pargo kaling chorten, western gateway of Lhasa, 147, 151.
Parrot in Tashilhunpo, 112.
Passport, 62, 67, 77; severe rules enforced at Khamba djong, 102; given Ugyen-gyatso, 109, 110; duties of officials concerning, 177; from Golog chiefs, 197; given author, 236.
Patama, ferry on the Tsang-po, 66.
Patna, merchants of in Lhasa, 149.
Patsal, hamlet of, 74. See also Pishi.
Pay of troops, 86.
Pe li. See Palri.
Peach trees, 226.
Pearls, sale for at Shigatse, 104.
Pema-kyod, province of, 183; goitre prevalent in, 258.
Pema-yangtse, village of, 7.
Penagangdo, village of, 72. See also Penjang.
Penam jong. See Panam-gang.
Peru, nunnery of, 218.
Peri jang, 74. See also Penagangdo.
Perong shavea, hamlet of, 70.
Peurbu, or Nepalese, 68.
Phagmodu, dynasty, 159, 226; origin of name, 226; its old capital, 227; village of, 226; royal city of, 230.
Phagpa, the lama, 159, 240; books presented him, 241.
Phagpa lha, greatest noble of Tibet, 183.
Phagri djong, 63; road to and from Gyantse, 87; traders from at Shigatse, 104; pass, 109.
Phala, the Dahpon, 80; reception of at Dongtse, 81; his home in Lhasa, 85, 149, 150; a friend of the minister, 101; his wife ill, 120.
Phamu-bub. See Phagmodu.
Pheasants, 14, 16; snow, 20; green, 21, 29.
Phendi Khangsar, minister of Tsang, 41.
Pherug mountains, 34, 38, 238.
Phodang djong, 230.
Phodang marpo, palace of Potala, 166; architecture of, 169.
Phola, village of, 75.
Phrug, or serge, 30.
Phugpa karpo, 33, 34.
Phuntso Khangsar, residence of minister at Tashilhunpo, 47, 49, 107, 108, 211.
Phunsto ling monastery, 209.
Phurchung, 2, 10, 20; his brother-in-law, 22; his meeting with Sir Joseph Hooker, 22; native village of, 23; his uncle, 24; his faithfulness, 27; drunkenness, 30; gives a bond for S. C. D., 31; his duties at Tashilhunpo, 47; sent to Khamba djong, 60; returns to Tashilhunpo, 102; prepares to return to India with U. G., 110; starts on journey, 111; returns to Shigatse, 196; rejoins S. C. D., 216.
Phyling, or foreigner, 102.
Pictures hung up for bestowing blessings, 119.
Pigeons, 43, 224.
Pigs, wild, 7, 14; at Tale, 7; fed on corpses at Lhasa, 169; where raised, 183.
Pillars of Jo khang, 163.
Pills, magical, 30, 132, 138, 168, 202, 203.
Pishi, village of, 72.
Pishi mani lhakhang, 73, 125.
Plantain, wild, 8.
Ploughing, in Sikkim, 3; ceremonies at beginning of, 123.
Plum trees, 226.
Pobo, province of, 258; goitre prevalent there, 258.
Po phug, 33.
Podong-chogleg namgyal, author, 138.
Pogpon, or paymaster, 62; of Shigatse, 86.
Poison, for killing bears, 2; for fishing, 6; weed near Bogto la, 16; natives killed by, 27.
Pole, camp, 39.
Police, Tibetan, 40; Chinese at Shigatse, 48.
Polo, game of, 260.
Polyandry, 96; Tibetan views on, 162; husbands not related, 216, 238; origin of custom, 251, 252.
Pomda, town of, 156.
Pong kang. See Pangang.
Ponpoi ri, 238.
Poplars, near Shigatse, 73; at Aniung, 76; at Dongtse, 95, 99; near Lhasa, 144, 149; sprung from hair of Buddha, 151; along Tib chu, 218; at Taga-sho, 226.
Postal service, 177, 185; diet of couriers, 185.
Potala, mount, at Lhasa, 145, 146; visit to, 166; audience with Dalai lama at, 166–169; annual white-washing of, 262.
Potatoes, 23, 24, 26, 83, 98, 231.
Pottery, of Tanag, 66; manufacture of, in Tibet, 66; at Ring-la, 216.
Potentilla anserina, used as food, 264.
Prayer-wheels, 25; turned by water, 28; at Dongtse, 98; at Tashilhunpo, 119; at Potala, 166; at Shari, 217; meeting, 189, 262.
Presents, money and scarves usually used, 46, 49, 71; made guests on arrival, 74; to Chyag-dso-pa, 96; to minister of rugs, serge, etc., 100; to Dalai lama, etc., 104; of green barley, 143; to Dalai lama, 167; New Year, 264.
Prisoners, cruelly treated, 49, 51, 62, 186.
Procession, to worship Emperor of China, 60; on arrival of general at Dongtse, 80, 82; escorts minister out of Dongtse, 95; New Year’s, 263.
Property, exempted from seizure, 191; disposal of at death, 255.
Propitiatory ceremonies of Lord of death, 124; of gods of life, 133, 134; of Tamdrin, 135, 137.
Pudding, blood, 26.
Pulo, or serge, 100.
Pungde, town of, 156. See also Pomda.
Punishment, of Tibetan officials, 51, 52, 54; for forgery, 56; for murdering lamas, 64; of work-people, 213.
Purang, on Nepal border, 53.
Purug. See Phrug.
Quoits, game of, 202.
Rachung, saint, a legend concerning, 153, 154; his cave, 231; monastery, 231; village of, 231.
Radeng, Hor Dokpa from, 226.
Ragasha, the Shape, 146.
Rag-tso ferry, 209.
Ralpachan, King, 151.
Ralung zamba, bridge over Nyang chu, 129; chong-doi, village of, 129; til monastery, 129.
Ramoche, temple of, 155; relics preserved at, 155, 156; services held at, 156; communicates with hell, 165; relics in, 165.
Rampa, the Shape, 101.
Rampa, a food plant, 125.
Rapa-chan, stream, 27.
Rape, how punished, 188.
Rape, raised at Chu-shul, 144.
Ratna-talai Khan, 172.
Ratong river, 7, 16.
Re chu, 43, 237; district of, 65; road to, 75. See also Shab chu.
Red-hat sect of lamas, 31.
Regent, office elective, 173; how chosen, 172; duties of office, 173.
Regyinpai monastery, 43.
Religious services, at Gyantse, 90.
Restaurant, at Shigatse, 55.
Revenue of State, 181; how paid, 182; in cattle, 184.
Review of troops, 82, 178, 198.
Rhododendrons, 142.
Rice, at Ringbi, 8; at Chaini, 29; at Wallung, 38; given by Dalai lama at audience, 168.
Rigyal Shendar, monastery of, 205; description of, 205, 206; second visit of U. G. to, 213.
Rin-chen gang, traders from, at Shigatse, 105.
Rin-chen Khadoma, the goddess, amber image of, in Ramoche, 165.
Rinchen tenwa, quoted, 13.
Ringbi, river, 8, 14; village of, 7, 8.
Ring-la, hamlet of, 130, 216.
Rishi chorten, on Hi range, 4.
Rishi stream, 5.
Ritoi monastery, 87.
Ri-tong precipice, 75; view from, 75.
Ri-u, village of, 37.
Rivotag, river, 217; djong, 217.
Rogyaba, beggars, at Shigatse, 47; origin of name, 63; form a guild in Lhasa, 163; how recruited, 163; cut up dead bodies, 164; their chief, 164; their houses, 164, 169.
Rombuja lake, 217.
Rope, sliding down, at festival, 58, 59, 265.
Roses, wild, 142.
Rudok, attacked by the Sikhs, 53.
Rugs, made at Targye, 41, 211; at Phola, 75; at Gyantse, 100, 203, 213.
Rummam, the river, its source, 2.
Rungit, great, the river, 2, 6.
Rupon, or colonel, 86, 178.
Saffron plant, in pot at Tashilhunpo, 112.
Sakya, hierarchs of, their ancient domain, 87; translate work of Sri Dandi, 112; ordain the Panchen, 120; visit to, 204; roads to, 209; arrival of U. G. at, 209; description of, 209, 210; — Panchen, 210; first view of town, 238; description of town, 238, 239; hierarchs marry, 239; succession, 241; their dress, 241; government of principality, 241; treasures in temple, 242.
Sa-sung-pa, policeman, 148.
Sa-wang, title given the Kalon, 174.
Sa-wang Rampa, the Shape, 48; Phala, 149.
Sakyang, village of, 7.
Sal trees, 2.
Salaries of ministers, 174; of Djongpon, 177.
Salt, 8; trade at Yampung, 15.
Salutation, mode of, in part of Khams, 197.
Sam ding, monastery of, 130; arrival at, 131; description of, 135, 136, 137; origin of, 136; founder of, 136; saved from destruction by Dorje phagmo, 139.
Samdong, village of, 237.
Samdub phodang, 227.
Samye, monastery of, 215; S. C. D. starts to visit it, 216; first view of, 221; library of, 222; images at, 222; pictures on temple walls, 222; village of, 222; adjacent country, 223; sands rapidly engulfing it, 224; temples of, 224; history of, 224.
Sandalwood image, 169.
Sangri jong, 228.
Sangri khamar monastery, 227.
Sangye-gyatso, the Desi, 79, 169, 172.
Sanskrit, books found by S. C. D., 112.
Santa Rakshita, saint, 224; driven away by Bonbo, 225.
Sarsha, village of, 70.
Satu. See Tsamba.
Saving life, to acquire merit by, 134.
Sawe. See Samye.
Sa-yong, headman, 238.
Sayong kong, plateau, 28; hok, 28.
Science, interest in, in Tibet, 102.
Seal, great, by whom held, 173; attached on property after death, 211.
Sedan chairs, by whom used in Tibet, 61, 130, 174.
Semaron, village of, 70.
Semarum la, 19, 20.
Semu, village of, 144.
Seng-chen, or lama minister, 202.
Sera, monastery of, 147; judicial power of abbot of, 177; revenue of, 182.
Serge, 30; superior quality made at Pishi Mani lhakhang, 73; presented to minister, 100; of Tos nam-gyaling, 218.
Serkempa, or lay monk, 156.
Serpon, or collector of customs, 109.
Shab chu. See Ré chu.
Shabdung, or page, 79.
Shabshi, village of, 217.
Shalchepa, title given the Kalon, 174.
Shalu, monastery, 72; chu, 72.
Shamalung. See Tamalung.
Shandung chu, 217.
Shape, minister of State, 36, 48, 51; in procession, 61; also called Kalon; 174.
Shari, village of, 217.
Shar Khambu district, 18, 26; mountains of, 20, 35.
Shata, the Shape, 36, 173.
Shar-chyog Aniung, village of, 76.
Shartse college, 119; Khanpo of, finds the Dalai lama, 160, 161.
Sharui teng, a haunted spot, offering made at it, 141.
Sheep, wild, 16, 32, 37, 42, 244, 245; carcasses cooked whole, 42; wild, stuffed at Gyantse, 91; horns hung before temple, 151.
Shendar ding, village of, 205, 214.
Shenrab mivo, chief deity of the Bonbo, 205; his descendants, 206.
Shenrezig, the god, 76; incarnate in Tamdrin, 138, 139; famous statue of, in Lhasa, 152; statue at Potala, 168; incarnate in Dalai lama, 171; one of his favourite resorts, 229.
Shen-tang srung-lug, sect of Bonbo, 208.
Shen tsang family, 206, 207; —lug, sect of lamas, 208.
Sherab dongbu, cited, 177.
Shetag mountains, 231.
Shetama, maidservant, 96, 150.
Shetoi, village of, 129.
Shetot. See Shetoi.
Shigatse, town of, 43; market at, 47, 51, 52; people dishonest, 111; climate, 113; return of U. G. to, 211.
Shikya, village of, 238.
Shing donkar, village of, 146.
Shinyer, or foreman, 146.
Sho, tenth of an ounce, 184.
Shong la, 238.
Shong-mar-tse, village of, 210.
Shong chu, 242.
Shong-pa la, 242, 243.
Shugpa tang, 29.
Shulenpa, title given the Kalon, 174.
Shyati-ling, village of, 235.
Sikhs, at Shigatse with envoy of Kashmir, 52.
Sikkim, north-west boundary of, 2; Tibetan pottery sold in, 66; Rajah’s sister, 206.
Sing-dong, waterfall in the Tsang-po, 125.
Singing songs, 108; birds, 221.
Singli mountains, 2, 5, 6, 20.
Singma la, 237.
Slate, wooden, used to learn to write on, 81.
Small-pox, fear of, 105, 110, 193; in Central Tibet, 126; at Nangartse, 130; ceremonies for recovery, 130; persons ill with, 143; prayers for recovery, 146; spread of, in Lhasa, 155, 170; near Sakya, 238; hospitals for, 242; treatment of, 257.
Snakes, at hot springs, 205; their bite rare, 258; treatment of, 258; eaten by Lalos, 258.
Snow, fall of, 123, 124.
Snow-shoes, 26.
Soap, substitute for, 100.
Social divisions of Tibet, 246, 247.
Solpon, or steward, 50; chenpo, or cup-bearer of the Dalai lama, 167.
Sonam chuphel, the Desi, 172.
Sonam-gyatso, the Dalai lama, 172.
Songkar, village of, 220; origin of name, 221; la, 221.
Springs, hot, 204, 211.
Srang, or ounce, 182.
Sri Dandi, his Kavyadarsha found, 112; minister’s opinion of, 112; study of it by S. C. D., 113.
Srang-btsan gambo, King, his Chinese wife, 151; image of Shenrezig, made by him, 152; his soul absorbed in it, 153; image of king, 153; his stone seat, 153; picture painted with his blood, 159; his image in Potala, 168; temple built by, 230, 232.
Stag, stuffed at Gyantse, 91.
Stirrup-cup, 28.
Store houses in Djong, 177.
Stove, earthenware, 60, 112, 162.
Stuffed pheasants, 8; animals of Gyantse, 91.
Sumdongma plain, 29.
Summer retirement of lamas, 214, 261.
Sunapara, village of, 70.
Sundub phug, 18.
Surgeons, college of, at Lhasa, 195, 196.
Surveying mode followed for Gyantse, 86, 87; minister wants to learn, 101.
Swallows, 43.
Ta-chien-lu, the town of, 156.
Tag, village of, 220.
Taga-sho, village of, 226.
Tag chhen Panda. See Tag-tsan bumba.
Tagkar-sho, ruins of, 226.
Tagmar. See Tamar.
Tagnag, village of, 211.
Tagong. See Taugang.
Tag-po, birth-place of new Dalai lama, 161; annexed to Sakya, 240.
Tag-tsan bumba, shrine of, 231.
Taimen, hamlet of, 75.
Taisamling college, 119.
Takoar, village of, 1.
Tale of the two friends who tried to deceive each other, 92–94.
Tale, village of, 7, 8.
Ta-lung, village of, 216.
Tama chu, lake, 15.
Tama la, 22.
Tamalung, village of, 142, 236.
Tamar, village of, 43.
Tamarisk trees, 230.
Tambur valley, early inhabitants, 3, 27; Khola Limbu, 20.
Tamdrin, the god, 22; see also Hayagriva; incarnation of Shenrezig, 138; destroys demon, 139.
Ta miran kukyab, crags, 22.
Tana, village of, 209.
Tanag, village of, 66; estate of minister at, 125; visited by U. G., 204; incarnate lama at, 241.
Tanag Donphug, lamasery of, 241.
Tandub, temple of, 230.
Tang-da. See Tanta.
Tanglung, village of, 40.
Tang-pe, valley of, 204.
Tangye-ling monastery, 149, 195; regent taken from, 173.
Tang-tong gyal-po, King, builds bridge over Tsangpo, 143; his other works, 143.
Tanka, Tibetan coin, 39.
Tanta, hamlet of, 217.
Tao valley, 238.
Taranath lama, early residence, 209.
Targod chyi-khang, author lodged in, 45; leaves it, 111.
Targye, village of, 41, 211, 244.
Tarmima. See doche.
Tarpa gang, 34.
Tashi-chos ding monastery, 24.
Tashiding hill, at mouth of Kalai river, 6.
Tashigang, village of, 74, 101, 121, 123, 204.
Tashigong, village of, 243.
Tashi-gyantsa, village of, 62, 69, 125; description of, 69.
Tashi lama. See Panchen lama.
Tashilhunpo, frontier of, 40; author’s first journey to, 40; arrival at, 43, 44; residence at, 45 et sqq.; beauty of, 45; illumination of, 56; worship of Emperor of China in, 60; view of, 69; employés living at Tashi-gyantsa, 69; inscription relating to founder of, 114; great temple of, 114, 117; S. C. D. leaves it for Lhasa, 124; house in Lhasa belonging to, 149; final departure from, 237.
Tashi-rabka, 32, 35, 36, 77; wall at, 36; bridge at, 37; traders at, 38.
Ta-tsan or colleges of Tashilhunpo, 117.
Ta-u, relay of horses, 52; officers of the, 63; tax, 182; by whom due, 185.
Taugang, village of, 74.
Tax-collectors, 177; duties and rights, 184.
Taxes, 181; exempted classes, 182; fixation of, 182, 183; lamaseries exempted from, 183; assessments, how made, 183; on wine, 183; on store-keepers, pedlars, 184; paid to landlords, 213.
Tea, drinking, 24, 49, 77–80; "general tea," 132, 205; varieties at Lhasa, 159; its introduction into Tibet, 159; grace before drinking, 167, 168; drinking by lamas, 207.
Teak wood pillars, in Jo khang, 163.
Tebong, village of, 39.
Telephone invented by lama, 208.
Teling, hamlet of, 76.
Temple, description of, at Dongtse, 78; at Gyantse, 90; at Samye, 222; at Sakya, 239.
Temple, Sir Richard, 73, 193.
Tertalingpa family, 235.
Theft, how punished, 187; ordeal for determining, 189.
Thorny shrub on Oma tang, 129.
Threshing, method of, 216, 218.
Tib chu, 218; village of, 218; la, 217, 218.
Tibgyu chu, 39.
Ti chu, 145; bridge over, 145.
Tiger, in Sikkim, 14; stuffed, at Gyantse, 91.
Timkra la, monkeys near, 2.
Timpon, police court of Lhasa, 174.
Tingri djong, 50, 121; road to, 50; general at, 80; visited by Amban, 178.
Tingugma, village of, 29.
Tinkar la, 84.
Tinki, peaks of, 238.
Tinle-gyatso, the Dalai lama, 159.
Tisrong detsan, King, 222; his image, 223; founds Samye, 225; monastery built by, 230.
Tobacco, smoking forbidden in Tashilhunpo, 119; by lamas generally, 119.
Tobgyal, palace of, 199; Panchen lama dies there, 203, 214.
Toilung, village of, 145.
Toilung chu. See Ti chu.
Toilung Tsorphu, 50.
Toi Suduling, monastery of, 218.
Toitsi, village of, 143.
Toll, bridge, 184.
Tom chu, 238.
Tombs, of Panchen lamas, 56, 69, 118; of Dorje phagmo, 136, 137; of first Dalai lama, 169.
Tomse-gang, square of, 155. See also Gya-bum gang.
Tondub Khangsar, family, 55; office at, 62; passport from, 67.
Tondub ling, 209.
Tongbu, village of, 142.
Tong chu, 204.
Tonglo mountain, 5.
Tong-shoi. See Dong-sho.
Tonmi Sambhota, the minister, 168.
Ton namgyalling Jong. See Tos-nam-gyaling.
Toothache, caused by worms, 60; its prevalence in Tibet, 260.
Torma offerings, 56, 126, 262.
Tos-nam-gyaling, town of, 218.
Tovo Metsig-pa, the god, 153.
Trade, between Lhasa and China, 156; customs in Tibet, 191, 192.
Trap, for pheasants, 14.
Treasury of Tibet, 51.
Trees sprung from hair of saint, 227.
Troops, their pay, 180.
Tsa-khang, village of, 144.
Tsal-pa-nang, ruined village, 144.
Tsamba, parched barley meal, 40; how eaten, 112.
Tsandan-yu lha-khang, temple of, 232.
Tsang khang, or "chief temple," 151, 153.
Tsarong chu, 238.
Tsa tsam, 33.
Tsang, or Ulterior Tibet, 41; generals in, 80.
Tsang-po, the river, 66; waterfall at entry into Bhutan, 125; first view of, 142; bridge over, 143; crossing of by boat, 143; crowd near Tashi-gang, 204; ferry at Rag-tso, 209; passage near Kideshor, 219; at Samdub, 227; ferry at Logang, 228; journey along, 234, 235.
Tsari, country of, 88, 125. See also Yaru tsang-po.
Tse-chan monastery, 84; one of most ancient in Tibet, 87; doctor from, 121.
Tse-chog ling, incarnate lama of, degraded for adultery, 133; regent chosen from, 173.
Tse-chog-pa monastery, 234.
Tse-dung, or lama officials, 176; their number and duties, 176; linga, 262.
Tse labdra school of Potala, 176.
Tse-pa-med, the god, coral image of, in Ramoche, 165; image at Samye, 222.
Tse-tang, town of, 228, 229; lamaseries at, 230; lamas from, 232; returns to, 234. See also Che-thang.
Tsha-bu-na. See Tsal-pa-nang.
Tsi-khang, or Bureau of Accounts, 175.
Tsipon, or accountant, 50, 81.
Tso chung donka, lakelets, 22.
Tso dom-dongma, lake, 17.
Tsog-chen shalnyo, his annual reign in Lhasa, 266.
Tsog-chi, village of, 75.
Tsogpon, or headman, 51, 52.
Tso khang, or hall of worship, 57.
Tsomoling, the regent, 156; his reforms, 157; anecdote concerning, 156, 157; regent chosen from, 173.
Tsomoling lamasery, 157.
Tsomo tel-tung, 211, 243; visit to lake, 244.
Tso-nag lake, 16, 17.
Tsong du ta-tsang. See Chong du-chog.
Tsong-khapa, his birthday, 56; lamasery, near Gyantse founded by, 84; image at Gyantse, 90; crown on Lhasa Jo-vo presented by, 152; his statues at Lhasa, 152, 153; rock discovered by, 152; stone lamps given by, 153; his prayer-meeting, 198; place where he took his vows, 233.
Tsoni, in Amdo, 156.
Tsopon, or head of village, 176.
Tsorpu monastery, 145.
Tubdan, lamasery of, 204.
Tuchung Jong. See Darchung djong.
Tu Kham, or upper (Stod) Khamdo. See Khamdo.
Tu-lug, family of Bonbo, 207.
Tung-chen, chief secretary, 47; goes to Dongtse, 69; his dress, 69; his birth place, 70; visit to his mother, 71.
Turban, yellow, 62, 95, 99.
Turnip, 32.
U, or Central Tibet, 61.
Uddayani, dance in celebration of birth of, 210.
Ugyen-gyatso, lama, 1, 24, 27; goes to Gyantse, 81; his visit of Gyantse, 85–88; surveys the town, 86; questions traders, 105; sent to the Lachan pass, 105, 106; recommends S. C. D. to friend, 107; prepares for journey, 110; leaves Shigatse, 111; returns to Gyatso-shar, 196; botanizes, 201; visits Bonbo sanctuary, 205, 206, 207, 208; revisits Rigyal Sendar, 213; returns to India, 216.
Ulag, hardships on people, 51, 53, 66, 179; given Chinese Amban, 63; given all soldiers and merchants, 179; definition of, 182; by whom due, 182, 183; who exempted, 183.
Underground monastery, 38.
Urga, the town of, 209.
Usury, 190.
Vaccine, author brings some to Tibet, 105.
Vaidurya Ta-tsan, 195.
Vajra Akshobhya, the image of, at Lhasa, 155.
Vermicelli, 59.
Visvakarma, sculptor of image of the Buddha, 151.
Wallung, village of, 24; road to, 29; lamasery of, 31; district of, 36; traders from, 37.
Walnut trees, 218, 224, 226.
Wangdan, village of, 75.
Wangdu chorten, of Lhasa, 155.
Washing hands before meals, 99.
Watchmen in fields, 2.
Water, cold, not drunk, 112.
Weather makers, 24.
Well, mode of drawing water, 73, 87, 195.
Wena, village of, 39.
Wheat, grown at Chu-shul, 144; near Lhasa, 145.
Willow trees, 70, 73, 76, 118; near Lhasa, 144, 145, 149; at Tos nam-gyaling, 218; near Samye, 224, 226.
Winds, at Shigatse, 109.
Wine, not allowed lamas, 90.
Witchcraft, spread of, 212.
Women, occupied in business, 55; their labours, 72; sell in market, 85; not in business at Shigatse, 85; harshly treated, 99; dress of wealthy, 121; make bricks, 143; official duties towards, 177; when unclean, 214; purification of, 214.
Worship, in temple of Dongtse, 78; by minister, 95; Kalachakra mandala, 127, 128.
Wu-tse temple of Samye, 222, 224.
Yab la, 235.
Ya-go, village of. See Iago.
Yak, riding, 30; bulls drive off wolves, 36; stuffed at Gyantse, 91; horns hung before temple, 151; legend concerning some yak horns, 153, 154.
Yakthanga, name of Limbus, 3.
Yalung, valley, 20, 242; river, 21; village, 22.
Yamata ri valley, 22, 23.
Yambu, a weight of silver, 51.
Yamdo tso, 136, 216. See also Palti, lake, and Yamdo-yum tso.
Yamdo-yum tso, lake, 130, 140.
Yampung la, 12, 15; village, 15; trade at, 15.
Yangaro district, 20.
Yang-ku tang, village of, 32.
Yangma, 16, 24, 32; road to, 28, 29; river, 29, 32, 33; traders from, 29; cultivation at, 32; district of, 36.
Yangpung, salt dealers from, 8. See also Yampung.
Yangta, village of, 234.
Yanku tang, 22.
Yanthang, village of, 7.
Yarlha-shampo mountains, 231.
Yarlung, district of, 226; its capital, 228; inundation of, 231; its fertility, 234; river, 231, 234; — shetag lamasery, 231. See also Gondang-tangme.
Yarsa, village of, 27.
Yaru la, 42, 244.
Yaru tsangpo, river, 41. See also Tsang-po.
Yurupe village, 217.
Yu-tog, zamba, 148; school, 175.
Yong-dso chu, 16.
Zangpo-pal, hierarch of Sakya, 240.
Ze-khang shikha, village of, 232.
Zim phug, 30.
Zinan la, 22.
Zomba Lha khang. See Ombu lha-khang.
Zorwar Sing, the Sikh general, 53.
THE END.
​ Published by the Royal Geographical Society