# Mount Seir, Sinai and Western Palestine/Chapter 9

CHAPTER IX.
AKABAH.
Akabah is a fort held by the Egyptian Government with a garrison of eight soldiers, and it is pleasantly situated near the eastern shore of the gulf of that name, and close to its northern bay. On descending from the slopes of the Tîh by the Haj Road, the head waters of the bay open out before the traveller, and an extensive grove of palm trees is seen to sweep round the head of the bay in a semicircle from left to right. These palms are probably indigenous; for the old name of Akabah was "Elim" or "Elath," which means a grove of trees; probably palms. This is of special interest, because two species of palm here flourish. The date palm (Phœnix dactylifera, Lin.) and the doum palm (Hyphæne Thebaica, Mart), which instead of consisting of a solitary stem with leafy plume atop, bifurcates or branches repeatedly. The two varieties may be seen growing together directly north of the bay, and it is the only place where I have seen both.
On the west side of the bay probably stood Ezion Geber (the "backbone of a giant"), mentioned by Moses in the same sentence with Elath, and, also, as one of the camping stations of the Israelites, probably after having descended from the mountains of Horeb into the Wâdy el Arabah or Wilderness of Zin. The name, perhaps, was given from the great ridge of porphyry which, ranging from north to south, strikes the coast at Ras el Musry. No traces of this place remain, but in the time of Solomon it was an important port. It is distinctly stated to have been "beside Elath, on the shore of the Red Sea, in the land of Edom." Its position therefore is beyond doubt; and from this place a great highway must have run up the valley to Kadesh Barnea and entering the hills by one ​of the passes have continued its course northwards, probably by Hebron, to Jerusalem. The waters of the gulf are beautifully clear, and the shore is formed of shelly gravel, consisting of pebbles of porphyry, granite, greenstone, and quartz, mixed with pieces of coral, and great numbers of shells, chiefly univalves, of which Hart collected altogether about 200 species. The rise and fall of the spring tides is about 6 feet, and the waters abound in fish, amongst which are "flying fish" and sharks. The presence of the latter renders bathing rather dangerous, and the habit is not much indulged in by the inhabitants, though, not altogether perhaps from the presence of these voracious fish.
The average temperature of Akabah is high, and in summer the heat must be almost overpowering. The land at the head of the bay might be made a fruitful field if cultivated, as it is covered by rich loam, and water is so abundant below the surface that the Arabs have only to scrape holes a few inches deep in the gravel near the shore in order to give their camels drink. The palm grove here is the largest we had seen since leaving Egypt. Doubtless wheat, maize, olives, indigo, and cotton might be cultivated with success; yet nothing is grown but the palm, which requires little culture; and the lazy inhabitants prefer to lounge about, smoking their pipes, and doing next to nothing in order to turn to account the bounties of nature.
Notwithstanding our agreement with Mahommed, and the handsome sum of money he had secured, we learned on the day following (Saturday) that there had been a judicious distribution of gifts on the part of our neighbours to secure priority in the start on Monday. We therefore thought it prudent to invite the Sheikh into our tent on Saturday evening in order "to keep him straight," by the presentation of a gift "in token of our high esteem." I had brought out a small revolver, a pretty instrument of American workmanship, and at the suggestion of my colleagues had resolved to sacrifice it for the public good on this occasion. We all felt sure that the sight of such a present would at once convert the Sheikh from the position of a wavering ally to that of a staunch friend. During all this ​time, he and his relatives were being housed in our luncheon tent and entertained at our expense, and we felt that, everything considered, we had the highest claim on his good offices. Accordingly, on his entering our tent after dinner, I made him a neat little speech through our interpreter, closing by the presentation of the revolver, which I felt sure would draw forth a reply overflowing with gratitude. What, however, was our surprise when the Sheikh, taking the weapon in his hand, examined it, and then deliberately laid it on the table. He then drew from his girdle a revolver of much larger calibre and somewhat similar make, assuring us that he had already more than enough of such gifts. A consultation was then held amongst ourselves, and we agreed to substitute two English sovereigns for the revolver, which I gladly reclaimed. This had the desired effect; and the Sheikh made a solemn promise that nothing should prevent an early start on Monday morning. It appeared, however, that his brother Ali was by no means pleased at the favours we were heaping upon Mohammed. He sent a private message, therefore, to us to request that we should give no more presents to his brother, but keep the rest for him!
Thus ended this eventful week, and everything being now arranged, we were in a position to pass the following day in a comparatively contented frame of mind.
The next day being Advent Sunday we had prayers in the tent, and just as they were concluded the distant tiring of guns announced the approach of a large body of pilgrims returning from Mecca on their way to Tunis and Algiers. We ascended the hill behind our camp, and beheld a procession of 500 or 600 people with camels winding their way along the base of the mountains from the pass of the Haj Road, and deploying in the plain behind the Fort. It was a curious sight. Some were clad in bright garments, others in brown or black cloaks. In front was carried a large banner bearing the crescent, and there was one single horseman who made his way to the Fort. We presumed he was in command of the guard. Sheikh Mohammed with his attendants proceeded to receive the pilgrims, who were now under his protection, and they soon were busy preparing to camp for the night. Gordon took a photograph of the party.
We were early astir on Monday morning for our start up the Wâdy el Arabah, and on this day we had our first heavy shower of rain. Hitherto, day after day of more or less hot sunshine had succeeded each other; but during Saturday the temperature had fallen (the maximum only reaching ​69° Fahr.), the sky was cloudy, and towards Sunday evening signs of an approaching storm began to manifest themselves. Accordingly we made our preparations. Trenches were dug round our tents, the pegs were firmly hammered down, and we got all baggage under cover. Soon after retiring for the night we heard the booming of heaven's artillery amongst the mountains, and flash succeeded flash with much brilliancy. The rain came at first in heavy drops, and then poured down steadily. The tents, however, proved sound; not a drop entered, and we rejoiced to think that the parched and thirsty ground would drink in the refreshing rain; that plant-life would receive a fresh impulse, and cover the plain we were about to traverse with verdure and flowers. In the morning rain still fell, heavy clouds hung on the mountains, and we had to mount our new camels, and make our arrangements for a start, under a dripping sky.
We broke up our camp in a scene of indescribable confusion. Our new Arabs were quite unused to their work; and it was excessively difficult to apportion the baggage to each camel, to have the tents taken down and packed, and to get the men to lade their own animals. The clatter of tongues was loud and incessant, above which those of the Sheikhs were the loudest. The roaring and groaning of the camels was hideous to hear; our dragoman, Ibraham, was storming, and our conductor silent with despair. As I was setting out he said to me, “I trust we shall meet again to-night!” Glad to get out of this babel, we rode off; but it was past eleven o'clock when the baggage camels were ready to start, owing, I was told, to Mohammed not having supplied the requisite number of camel nets.
* ↑ Deut. ii, 8.
* ↑ The doum palm is common in Upper Egypt, and on the banks of the Atbara; Baker's "Nile Tributaries," p. 32. Professor Hæckel mentions its occurrence near the Arab village of Tor. "Visit to Ceylon."
* ↑ Numb, xxxiii, 35.
* ↑ 1 Kings ix, 26.
* ↑ This may be the road described by Sir C. W. Wilson as "the road from Haila (Elath) to Petra, which appears to have run up the W. el Arabah and W. Gharandel by Dinna (Ain el Ghudjan). Regarding the position of Kadesh, I shall have more to say in another page. The Rev. F. W. Holland considered that the Israelites, after leaving Mount Sinai, marched northward by the W. el Atiyeh on the plateau of the Tîh to Kadesh Barnea, without descending to the Valley of the Arabah. Rep. Brit. Assoc, 1878, p. 622.