# Oregon Historical Quarterly/Volume 8/Diary of Asahel Munger and Wife

DIARY OF ASAHEL MUNGER AND WIFE.
Editorial Note.—The Reverend J. S. Griffin and wife, and Asahel Munger and wife, were fitted out for missionary work among the Oregon Indians by a Congregational ist Association of North LItchfield, Connecti- cut. It appears that they started directly from Oberlin, Ohio. Mr. Griffin was then a single man, but met the future Mrs. Griffin on his way through Missouri and married her on a very brief acquaintance.
The Griffins wintered at Lapwai and the Mungers at Waiilatpu. In the spring of 1840 Mr. Griffin attempted to establish an independent mission in the upper Snake River country but failed. He later settled on the Tuala- tin plains and was for a time an editor and always a leader of radical movements. Mr. Munger and wife remained at Dr. Whitman's until May, 1841, when he showed signs of mental derangement. He had made himself useful to the mission as a carpenter, but Dr. Whitman, fearing the effect of his affliction upon the Indians, suggested the idea of his returning to the States. Not making connections at Green River with the returning party of the American Fur Company, the Mungers came back and he was em- ployed for a time by the mission at Salem. His malady became worse and he committed suicide.
The narrative of his journey is valuable in the clearness and explicit- ness with which the incidents are detailed. The situation of the Mungers at Fort Hall, where they would have been stranded had it not been for the whole-souled generosity of Mr. Frank Ermatinger of the Hudson Bay Company, is worth having an account of at first hand. See Lee and Frost's Oregon, p. 211 ; Gray's History of Oregon, pp. 185-192 ; Bancroft's Oregon, Vol. I, pp. 237-240.
Dear Mother,
Through the kind providence of God we have safely arrived in Oregon, at Fort Walla Walla, after a long and tedious journey. We are well, and comfortably situated for the winter, and now, according to what you are expecting, I send you our journal. Saturday, May 4th, 1839 This day after finishing all our arrangements we started from the States, from our country; went about 3 hours to
camped about 5 o'clock. Sab. 5th Started this morning about 7 traveled to the head of Grand river. Had some trouble about packs, spent the Sabbath as I never did before, found good grass and water,
Mon. 6th—Traveled to the Wacarusia [Wakarusa] river, we passed as beau- tiful prairies as I ever saw in my life found a pleasant stream. }}
of the Oonzas [Kansas] village, camped within 2% miles of it. This village is a cluster of mud houses, built round, running up to a point
9th Thursday Exchanged 3 horses and obtained two horses and two mules of Brother Johnson who has the care of the Methodist mission at this place. He gave us a good bargain in the horses, and they gave us many things which we needed for the journey. 10th Brother & Sister went to the mission today (Friday.) Saturday Started this morning at 9 to cross the Conzas river carried our effects across in a canoe, and drove the horses across through the water packed and drove on 3 hours and camped. 12 Sab. Moved on as usual, camped on the Black Vermillion river. 13 Monday Saturday night for the first time we had a guard to watch our horses; our encampment formed a square leaving room enough for our horses in the center to be fastened where they could eat all night. 14 Every man bears his part watching. Tues. Started early this morning drove 3 or 4 hours and camped for the night, camped on a beautiful stream. Mr. Eichardsoni (our hunter) shot 7 large fish that would 15 weigh 2 or 3 Ibs each. Wed. Marched about 7 hours crossed Eush Creek and camped. One man in crossing without directions, ran into deep water swam his horse wet all his packs. Mr. Richardson shot an Elk a doe good meat supplied all the camp with fresh meat. 16 Thursday, 16th Drove about 5 hours and stopped to rest. After a part of the company had started, one of the horses took fright and ran away strewed his load all over the plain and finally ran off and was lost. In running about and dragging a traveling bag at the end of a long rope he frightened one of our horses and he ran away threw off his pack and bruised some of our tins only drove about one 17 hour camped for the night Frid. pased [sic] a place today where it appeared six men had encamped a short time since. Found a beautiful place for encamping steep bank on two sides pleasant stream. Eliza's health not as good as usual though she has endured the journey much better than we could have expected The horse she 18 rides is not an easy traveler. Sat. Drove about 7 or 8 hours camped this evening on a more beautiful place than we ever have found for our encampment. A beautiful level green good grass beautiful stream of water, gravel bottom swift current land about us is prairy [sic] no timber except along the stream found goose- 19 berries twice since we started. Sab. This morning E. rose early and prepared breakfast as usual I slept later on account of having watched Jast night. I am not very well myself E. tired out rode 18 or 19 miles without stopping. One of the company shot an Antelope which is a species of Deer very good meat E. so much exhausted that she could not take her supper with us though after 1 Paul Richardson, mountain man, who was prominent in conducting parties between Missouri frontier and the rendezvous. He had accom- panied Wyeth on his first expedition. ​DIARY OF ASAHEL MUNGER AND WIFE. 389 resting awhile she could eat. We now can see the need of a Sabbath a day of rest for ourselves and our animals. Oh that we may again enjoy the Sabbath, I feel that Jesus is precious to my soul. I love Him and wish to do his will, even if I suffer wrongfully. . He knows our hearts, and I rejoice that he does. Camped on Blue river. 20 Mon. to Thurs. met 5 Delaware Indians Tuesday who had been out trapping. They were very friendly one of them was acquainted with Mr. Harris who is the principal man of the American Fur Com- pany with whom we are traveling. This Indian had shot an Elk just before we came in sight, and only taken his tongue, he went with us to show us where it was our Co took the whole which supplied us well with fresh meat. Mr. Harris gave him some bacon. Thurs Evening the Storm came up from two directions clouds above ap- peared to move in the opposite direction from those below, after sunset it commenced raining and blowing, most of the tents were blown down. I stood outside of our tent and held it by the help of E. & Mrs. G. who were inside holding with all their might. Storm con- tinued about an hour. May 24th Friday. We did not sleep much last night. E none at all set 25 [sic] up all night. Sat. appearance of rain this morning traveled two hours and camped. We are now past timber have to depend upon 26 flood wood and little willows for our fuel. Sab. No Sabbath 27 started early this morning, cold riding Monday started early traveled about 10 hours in hopes of reaching a cluster of timber, but 28 stopped 3 miles short Tues. Started about 7 this morning, came within a mile of Bradies grave (a man that was murdered some years since) and camped. We have been short for game a few days, though 29 plenty to be seen. Wed. Today we came in sight of Buffalo in large bands. Our Co. killed 15 or 16 to day, though perhaps not the weight of two of them was brought into the camp traveled all the afternoon in sight of them we came near to some the largest appear terrific noble animals not easily frightened. Wolves can pass through their bands and hardly be noticed or molested. We have been finding less and less grass and vegetation of all kinds, have frequently found prickly pears yesterday found one of another kind which is frequently eaten camped 7 or 8 miles below the place where we expect to cross the Platt[e] river. This has been a day of slaughter among buffalo, and most of the meat left to waste, one 30 man killed a veal we rec'd a part of it. Thurs. had veal for break- fast grass short, eaten down by Buffalo. Had a good nights rest. Buffalo determined to come down to the water drove them back for 31 fear they would frighten our horses. Frid. Moved on to the Forks of the Platt, to the usual crossing place found the water too deep to ford pitched our tents and commenced making preparations for ​390 DIARY OF ASAHEL HUNGER AND WIFE. building our boat Several h'unters went out for skins to build it of it requires 4 large skins to make one large enough. Mr. Eichardson saw several Indians feared he should be molested by them and re- turned. We soon discovered a very large encampment of them, but a short distance from us on the opposite side of the river about the same time they saw us, and sent out 2 or 3 as spies or rather to show themselves to us. Mr. Harris ordered a flag raised. No sooner was this done than understood by the natives. They returned immediately, in haste, and in less than hour 25 came down to the opposite side of the river, and discharged their guns as a token of friendship. These were warriors under the direction of the chief of one of the bands. They all waded the river a little above us, put on their clothes, and came down to us in a platoon with their chief in the middle came within 20 steps and halted until Mr. Harris went out to meet them. They soon exhibited the letters they had from various men of business whom they had seen we found there were 3 bands of Sous [Sioux] in one village and another band called the Shians [Cheyennes] The Ogolallas Tetons & Broken arrows as Sous. The chiefs of all these bands have called on us today with their warriors one after another. To each of these companies a present was given and a dinner. Tire- some visiting without an interpreter. The Ogolala chief offered us a guard to watch our horses if we wanted to keep the Indians from stealing them. June 1 Sat. Not molested at all by the Indians. The Ogolala chief, his 2 wife, 3 sons and brother stay in camp this night. Sabbath Last night about 11 oc a dreadful howling commenced among the Indians and dogs this they kept up by intervals most of the night. In the morning they commenced moving and before noon were all out of sight. There were about 380 lodges and probably between 2 and 3 thousand people. Today we had a Sabbath of rest in consequence of the Alcohol which the Fur Company were carrying to the mountains. This they had buried for fear of the Indians, and were under necessity of waiting until they were out of sight to take it up. Those Indians who were poor used their dogs instead of pack horses. They pack them heavy. When they catch them for harnessing, they howl most bitterly, many of them get very sore by carrying their loads. 3 Monday This morning 4 men took our boat and went up the river the south branch of the Platt. It was not considered safe to go up the north branch (though we had designed to do so) on account of the Indians, as they [had] only gone 3 or 4 miles from their first 4 encampment. Moved camp about 3 hours and camped. Tues. crossed the river this day. Horses waded and swam. In riding across on horseback myself my saddle girth broke and let me into the river, but providentially the water was shallow in that place we were under ​DIARY OF ASAHEL MONGER AND WIFE. 391 the necessity of wading the river and leading our boat. The current was swift, and the bottom quick sand, it was very hard work. The river here was quite wide, moved on about 12 miles and camped. 5 Wednes. moved onward up the South fork, camped at the tree, as it is called, where there is but one tree in sight, that can be seen at 6 a great distance. Thursday Started across the prairies for the North fork of the Platt, camped within 3 or 4 miles of it near the head of Ash creek had a heavy storm. Seven or 8 of our horses ran away, all found before night, nothing lost, found wood by going a mile and car- 7 ried it on our backs glad of it at that. Frid. moved on toward the river but for want of a good place to descend the hill, or bluff, as it is called, we traveled most of the forenoon on the high lands descended 8 found wood and grass in abundance on the Platt river. Sat. our movements today were slow 2 Indians came across the river into camp two others remained on the other side of the river, soon the 2 returned, and the 4 came over and remained through the night. 9 Sab. Before noon we came in sight of the chimney, as it is called. This is a gloomy Sabbath only for the presence of Jesus. 10 Mon. My prayer is this morning. Oh Lord honor thyself in me and our little company may all have the spirit of meekness that is in thyself, and be willing to follow Thee. We are now on the south r. side of the north branch of the Platt an immense prairy on both sides of it but little wood, and that principally flood wood we have been under the necessity of using Buffalo dung for fuel. Yesterday we passed a gang of Buffalo, they were on the opposite side of the river, one went across to kill. But our camp came up, and gave the band our wind (as it is called) they all started and ran off. The[y] smell the scent of man for miles when they do, they are sure to run. though a man can get the other side of the band from the wind stoop like an animal, and get very near them. It is just if we should suffer for want of Buffalo meat enough have been slaughtered to last us to the mountains, & hardly a week's provision for the camp saved Traveled all day in sight of the Chimney Stop|~p]ed about noon nearly opposite to it. Above this spar of hard earth or rock there appeared one of the grandest scenes I ever beheld. About 7 or 8 miles from us is what is called Scotch [Scott's] bluff, it looks like an old castle with a rounding top, back from this from the river there are several others similar in line like a number of very large buildings. From them there was a towering bluff with here and there a cluster of black cedar shrubs, here and there a plat of grass interspersed with spots of naked earth which resembled rocks towering high. Then on our left the chimney and its rounding base, and towering hills back of it Then to look upon the beautiful green of 6 or 7 miles long and nearly as wide which was rolling presented a scenery which ​ 392 DIARY OF ASAHEL MUNGER AND WIFE. % i to my mind was truly grand such as I never saw before went but a little way this afternoon on account of rain. We are hurrying on June 11 for fear of the Shians that they will come and overtake us. Rained most of the night rested well last night, though I have been quite 12, 13 exhausted for several days. Wednes. noon at the spring after a long ride. Thurs. came down to the Platt or near it, but in consequence of the rain a small stream was so high that we were obliged to camp 14 in a very muddy place. Frid. Came to Larimer's [Laramie] Fort about 11 o'clock, forded the river and camped on the flat between the river and the Fort remained through the day. There were 10 men at the fort. 3 of these men had Indian wives they appeared well one could speak some English. E. received a present of a pair of moc- casons. E. made her a present in return. After she had given them she went home and got a new pair, because she had worn the others. These were made very nice. They furnished us with milk while there we bought salt of them for 50 cts for a pint cup full bought 3 cups 15 full. Sat. started early this morning went only about 12 miles to a warm spring which boils out of the bottom of a great hill and yet is warm winter and summer. Camped here for the night on account 16 of rain. Sabbath, a dreary day. oh how we need a Sabbath, our hunters went out to kill game, slaughtered 2 Buffalo and one Elk. either of which had more meat than was consumed. The trust of my soul is in God. I will lean on Him. It is good to get near Him in time of trouble found an excellent plat of grass for camping. 17 Mon. moved on slowly today on account of hills Snow to be seen on the top of a high hill, when the sun is beating down upon us quite 18 hard. Camped early for want of water. Tues. Hilly ground only traveled a short distance. Stopped at a pleasant stream which was very refreshing. E. almost sick for want of light bread. Mr. G. is not willing to have it made. I have looked to God in this case, my soul is troubled. Oh how good [to] trust in Jesus He is near according to 19 his holy promise. Wednes. camped back from the river 14 Indians came into camp this morning, swam the river said they were Shians This day hilly ground producing a little grass, and sage, a kind of shrub which tastes like wormwood, and looks like it only larger. Camped on the Platt a pleasant place. Mr. Johnson came near drowning in attempting to swim the river while bathing providen- 20 tially struck a sand bar and waded out. Thursday made a good march this day 3 o'clock P. M. then ascended a hill and wandered around over hill and valley until half past 6 and only two or three miles ahead to get round a ravine. Crossed a little stream of water and camped on its bank. One of the company went out when our camp was full of meat, several Buffalo having been killed, and most of it left to waste, and shot a large Buffalo because he could. The noble ​DIARY OF ASAHEL MUNGER AND WIFE. 393 animal was feeding in good grass, taking his comfort when his enemy must commence murdering him shot him 17 or 18 times before he fell took perhaps his tongue and left the remainder to be devoured by wolves which preyed upon him all night. There is a shrub here called grease wood which is saltish. We are now at the point where we cross the Platt, arrived here at 12 o'clock commenced building two boats. These boats are made of poles tied together, and covered with Buffalo skins. Grass for our horses not as good as we have found. The rain has fallen in such torrents that it has literally washed away the soil from large portions of this country; so that it is left a complete barren waste, not only the surface but hundreds of feet in depth seems to have been washed away over what is now the surface over thousands of acres of land over which we have passed which has only left here and there a towering bluff that is so hard 22 the water does not affect it. Sat. Boats completed by about noon all crossed river safely by 5 o'clock. The water here is deep rowed our boats packed up went about 3 miles and camped for the night. 23 Sab. Traveled up the Platt until noon then left it and bore away a northwest direction towards the Sweet water river a branch of the Platt. I feel as usual the need of a Sabbath, but Jesus is a precious Savior to me. I rejoice in him, oh let my soul meekly yield to him 24 in all things. Monday camped last night after a long and tedious day on a dry stream had to dig for water, and that too within a mile of a spring of clear water. Moved on fast this forenoon 15 or 16 miles without stopping traveled most of the time in sight of Buffalo. On our left for several days has been one of the Black Hills so called because of the shrub cedars that cover its surface and give it a black appearance. Camped at a beautiful spring of cool water found gooseberries most of the way we have had rain now expect cool air and frosty nights. June 25th Tues. Hard frost last night found good grass this forenoon have traveled in sight of towering broken ragged mountains, saw a moun- tain covered with snow. Came this evening to the rock Independence. This is the point where we struck the sweet water a small river branch of the Platt. 14 miles above its junction. This rock is called Independence from the fact that in 1830 the American Fur Co. spent the 4th of July here and celebrated the day. It is a long oblong rock covering perhaps 3 or 4 acres of ground. Many have enscribed their 26 names upon it. Wednes. Left the rock early and traveled up the Sweet water. We can see the snow upon the mountains on our left very clearly, we are now rising the Rocky Mountains gradually that great chain that separates the waters flowing to the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. We know we are rising only from the facts, that we are and have been traveling by the side of rapid streams ever ​f 394 DIARY OF ASAHEL MUNGER AND WIFK. ^ since we left the States the snow discoverable on the mountains at so small a distance above the level on which we travel, while we are warm And the coolness of the Atmosphere are the only evidences I can discover of our ascending the mountains There are high hills on our right and left, more particularly on our left. Are now looking 27 for white men to meet us from rendezvous. Thurs. we had a pleasant encampment last night. Had for our supper a roast rib, and now I will tell you where we found it. It was taken from the upper side of the back bone of a Buffalo cow. This is called the hump rib. These ribs extend from before the fore shoulder back about two feet and a half, and run up from the back bone from one and a half to two feet high. This is covered with a kind of meat which is very good. About 10 o'clock this morning we saw for the first time the wind river mountains which are the highest range of mountains, from the vicinity of which, waters run East and west. It is covered with snow we are several days travel from them. Camped on the sweet water about 4 o'clock rather than travel late to another encamping place. All toler- 28 ably well enured considerably to our way of living. Friday Traveled only 8 miles and stopped about 10 o. c. after noon traveled a long distance without water passed a small pond of salt water, saw a large number of Buffalo, at one time were in sight of perhaps 1500 one drove of them were started by some of the hunters, they bent their course towards the river full chase, our company were between them and the river They came very near running through or among our horses or so near as to set our horses running. They looked very wild. This is much to be feared, as horses frequently when frightened by them take after them and are never found. Camped on Sweet water. Traveled most of the day in sight of the Wind river moun- tains. They present a most spendid and beautiful appearance Its high peaks, and the whole covered with snow reflecting the light from the sun, and rising so high as hardly to be distinguished from the white clouds above them, present a grand scenery. Had a blessed 29 season of prayer alone. God was there. Sat. this morning traveled until about 10, stopp'd to rest on SVeet Water. Soon after 12 we moved on through hills and vallies until 5 to a spring. My prayer is this day Oh Lord do thy holy will with us, I desire nothing more than that we may be holy in heart, and pure in all our actions & 30 thoughts. E not very well today her food distresses her. Sab. This day I have had precious communion with God we traveled as usual. Julyl E. had hard head ache. Camped again on Sweet Water. This morn- ing some frightened by two Indian dogs which came into camp found Indians were nigh. Crossed Sweet Water twice halted to rest. E. ate nothing this morning at noon some better head aches yet. After noon had a long march to a spring 6% hours. E. & myself ​DIARY OF ASAHEL MUNGER AND WIFE. 395 stopped once and turned a little to the right and took a drink of water from the river, that descends to the States, for the last time Today on the height of ground could see the valley of the Green river which descends to the Pacific, and the Sweet water which descends to the States could see on our right more clearly the wind river mountains & on our left at the distance of at least 40 or 50 miles piles of mountains covered with perpetual snow. Camped at a 2 spring after apprehensions of not being able to find water. Tues. from the spring we passed on towards Sandy Kiver moved on to Little Sandy, and after a long march, camped on big Sandy pure snow water from the mountains. These streams are branches of Green river July3 Wed. mountains in sight and covered with snow most of the time. This is melting and running down in these streams, so that the water 4 is cold soft and good. Camped on big Sandy. Thurs. at half past 10 today we halted to remain until we should hear from Mr. Dripse's camp (who is at the head of the American Fur Company) Soon he appeared himself and Capt. Walkerl with him, to the joy of all the camp. He brought us cheering news. Mr. Ermitinger [Ermatinger] one of the head men of the Hudson Bay Company came over with 8 men and a company of Indians to rendezvous, who was expecting to accompany missionaries if any should come over. They expected to meet Mr. Lee and his company here. We started about noon 5 traveled fast until after 4. Friday started soon after sunrise, and arrived at rendezvous about half past 10 o. c. Had a friendly inter- view with Mr. Ermitinger & Dr. Newel [Robert Newell] 2 one of the men employed by the American Fur Company. Saw the Indians that came up with Mr. Ermitinger all appear very friendly. The American Fur Co. have made a poor collection of furs this year are brin[g]ing 6 their business to a close. Sat. pleasant morning, our tent is near Mr. Ermitinger, and nearer Green river. this is quite a stream 15 or 20 rods wide, and where we forded it midside deep to a horse. We saw the soldier a Nezpersee [sic] Indian who has been much with the 7 missionaries. Sab. Mr. G. preached today twice, he had quite a number of white men and more Indians to hear him. After meeting many got drunk. The Am Fur Company are ruining men as fast as 8 they can with their Alcohol. Mon. Last night Mr. Ermitinger had 2 9 horses stolen from him by 2 of his own men. Tues. Last night one of the men came back for his horse he had stolen. He was not careful to secure him safely, so the horse returned home in the night He 1 Courtney M. Walker, who was at this time in charge of Fort Hall. He had first come to Oregon with Jason Lee. 2 Robert Newell, who was later prominent in affairs of early Oregon. He brought wagons to Oregon (The Dalles) in 1840. ​396 DIARY OF ASAHEL HUNGER AND WIFE.
came boldly into camp to look for him. Mr. Ermitinger watched for him and saw him. When the man saw Mr. E. he cocked his gun to shoot him (the gun he had stolen also). He did not shoot but turned and ran off. This is a specimen of similar occurrences which are quite common in the mountains at this time. The men are most of them out of business and know not what to do. Bought meat today 10 called jurk [ jerked J. Wed. Today we start for fort Hall drove only 3 hours, camped on account of Mr. Ermitinger. The scene we have left is really distressing. Those poor mountain men are receiving payment for labor in alcohol at an enormous price. These men must now scatter off, with their little tobacco and coffee & the like things which were the principal commodities except alcohol which were brought up this year from the States for the men, and seek a home and employment where they can. many of them aie so poor they cannot go down to the States what to do they know not. July 11 Thurs. Today we moved on rapidly fast enough to injure our pack horses hard for our wives. We are now beginning to travel over hills some high and steep, narrow trails or paths through shrubs and trees camped in a deep valley. I here hired a horse of an Indian to 12 ride to Ft. Hall. Frid. started early. Indians appear very friendly. Mrs. G's ho;se in passing a side hill which was very steep and danger- ous slipped, and came near going down to the bottom of the hill, she partly fell, but her clothes caught on the horse and held her. She was very much frightened, though not injured, about 10 o,c we passed up a very steep hill, which was very hard for our horses, and our wives as they walked up. Passed on 2 miles & camped on account of 13 a hail storm. Sat. our way today very hilly, we pass over places on side hills and among trees that appear almost impassible [sic], in some places the road is on the side hill, some 30 feet, and sometimes as high as 60 ft above the level, and on an angle of 40 to 60 degrees from a horizontal, in a narrow path where two horses could not pass with their packs, and exhibit no marks of fear, over such places we have all passed within a few days, not enough grass for our encampment, left part of our Co. a mile back. I discovered 5 or 6 Buffalo near us. 14 Mr. Kichardson shot one. Sab. Traveled on, until we came to the place where the missionaries spent the Sabbath last year, and camped. 15 Monday Today found our way better than we anticipated; yesterday all the Co. except myself gathered salt. It was very good found it on the ground though very pure and clean. We camp on Bear river This river runs into the Salt lake which has no outlet. Found open level prairy today, quite cheering to find such a road after its being so hilly have not seen any snow for several days. Straw berries 16 ripe, though we have not had any. Tues. warm pleasant road ex- cept a little side hill made for the soda springs, arrived about 10 o'c. ​DIARY OF ASAHEL HUNGER AND WIFE. 397 We found the waters a luxury indeed, as good soda as I ever drank boiling up out of the earth. There are several of these springs all that we saw are sunk down a little below the surface of the earth. The mother spring of all we saw is said to be 10 or 12 feet across, and no bottom has ever yet been found. The water there is much stronger than at the springs we saw, these springs, which are called the Pots, boil up from the outlet of the mother spring which passes along under ground and runs into the river. The water is clear and has a smart taste like small beer, though it has more of the sting to it than any beer I ever drank. I drank freely of it. It had a very good effect. Below these springs is another curiosity, on the bank of Bear river is a small hole in the rock about 6 or 7 inches in diameter nearly round running down on an angle of 45 degrees back from the river, out of which there is boiling or rather foaming water about blood warm. This is thrown out at intervals of about 4 or 5 seconds it would seem to be gasping for breath drawing in wind which makes a guggling noise when passing in, then out comes the water in a half steam form, as though mixed with gas and pressed out with tremendous force. There is another similar, though not one fourth as large, and emits but little water. This is called by mountain men the steam engine. The whole surface of the earth about this place, and the soda springs, and finally all over this region presents every proof of having been a volcano, the lava covers the whole surface of the earth. The rocks all about have been evidently in a melted state. I took specimens of 4 different kinds some harder than others. There is a bed of white clay, about as white as our common white earthen [ware.] This is used by the Indians in all parts of the mountains for whitening 17 skins &c. Wednesday We left Mr. Ermitinger this morning and took another rout, for making meat last us down the Columbia river. 18 Thurs. we traveled on in a northwardly direction toward a place called Gray's hole This very bad killed a Buffalo, one of our horses scattered his pack containing our cooking utensiles nothing lost, camped on a small run. Tolerable good water. Some of our company are willing to stand guard our company consists of 14 men and two women, we have 35 horses and mules. Fri. this morning one of our company shot a gun before it was fairly day, and halloed out like one in distress. The whole company sprang up supposing we were in danger from the Indians. This was a mischievous false alarm. We are now on the battle ground we heard of so much at home, but we lose no sleep on account of it. Had much trouble from flies. Found the horse pen Mr. Richardson built last year when making dried meat for his journey from here to Walla Walla. Saw some Buffalo, found none or killed none; in the evening Mr. E. killed 2 though they were 20 so poor that they were not fit for eating. Sat. July 20th. Took an ​398 DIARY OF ASAHEL MUNGER AND WIFE. early start camped abouf noon had a little rest. How precious to 21 read the Holy Bible. Sab. This day we have a Sabbath of rest, our hunters went yesterday in pursuit of game, have not yet returned. My soul trusts in God. How perfectly easy for him to bring about his own purposes, when they are directly opposed to the wishes of wicked men. It is my prayer this day that God will provide some place for us to labor, in however obscure a corner it may be I care not I do not look for great things If we may be the means of enlightening a few, we will rejoice. I believe in Jesus and thank him for the many blessings of the journey thus far. I feel as though the animals we ride are God's lent us to use. I expect we shall have the use of them just as long as he sees we need. That is all I wish. I ask that I may possess the spirit of meekness, long suffering and kindness that is in Jesus Christ. With this spirit Let me treat all with whom I come in contact. No sermon today no prayers except private and family 22 devotions. Monday. Today our company are making meat. The hunters came in last evening. This is made by cutting into thin slices and spreading it upon a rack which is made of rods laid upon poles raised about 2 feet above the fire There we let it dry and half roast, or heat gradually until the juice or blood is dried, then it is taken off, packed together and pressed all night. The hunters killed 5 Buffalo one calf, and one bear. They have gone again while the rest of us dry what has been brought in. I hold in niy hand a bunch of the mountain flax. This resembles eastern flax very much. Its blossom bowl leaf, branches of the stalk & size all compare well. But this is a perennial plant, springs every year from the same root. We are now descending the mountains towards the Pacific within 40 miles of Ft Hall not yet molested by the Indians. Two men left us this morning for Ft. Hall. E. almost worn down with hard traveling and hard thinking. Tues. Lost a sack of clothing this day in it were two pr pantaloons 1 pr. boots 1 pr shoes 5 pr mocca- sins a vise vise I did not discover it until we camped. I returned in search of it went % of the day's journey, but could not find them. In returning home it was late before I arrived passed in sight of the three Butes three very high mountains covered with snow. 24th Wednesday. Mr. G. had a chase after a Buffalo in company with two others. Traveled most of the day in open plane [sic] with Snake river on our right at a distance bore away to the left, to Blackfoot 25 Creek & camped. Thurs. moved on until we came within 6 miles of Ft Hall Found a beautiful spring of water boiling up out of the 26 earth There are many similar in this region. Friday moved camp today only a mile found good grass and water stopped here for the purpose of recruiting our horses I made preparations and started about noon for Ft Hall. Was welcomely received by Mr. Ermitinger ​DIARY OF ASAHEL MUNGER AND WIFE. 399 & Mr. Walker who are the principal men in charge of this Fort Found Mr. Itodgers here from the mission west of the mountains. I returned a horse I received of him at Soda Springs. He would receive nothing for the use of him. Mr. Rodgers went home with me 27 and stayed with me until this (Sat.) morning. Moved our camp down about a mile below Fort Hall for fear the Blackfoot Indiana would steal our horses, or that the Snake or Shoshone Indians would & charge it to the Blackfeet They never come below the Ft to steal. Took Eliza and went up to the Fort and spent the afternoon. The 28 men were drinking very much. Sab. This day is indeed a day of rest. We are alone reading the precious Bible and other books suffer- ing our bodies and minds to rest. How blessed to case all our cares upon Jesus. How blessed to realize the care That Jesus takes of those he loves, When we are tried he knows it all, He listens to the heaving sigh we breathe, Though silent meets his gracious ear above No angry thought no frowning look returns But peace and joy poured into the troubled soul Dispels the fears of those that trust in God. 29 Monday This day we divided our mess, we don't know where we 30 shall be located. Tues. This day I am rejoiced to spend in writing home. I had written over one sheet or more in the afternoon. After dark I got on a strange mule to go in search of our horses, 1 rode about half a mile only, before she rared up, jumped, and kicked until she threw me off and broke my right shoulder. Providentially there was a physician in camp who set the bone free of charge. Aug. 1st, 1839 Thursday, I had commenced copying our journal to send to Dea Goodell had to stop on account of my shoulder. E. has hard labors. Tuesday she washed and lamed her wrists yesterday she had to get her own wood, and climb a steep bank for water. It was too much for her. Providentially I went out a little before night (The day I was hurt) and made a bowery of willows, the sun beats down 2 very warm. Frid. spent most of the day writing part of the time with my left hand, though some with my lame one. it is gaining finely. Sat. 3d Today I finished copying the Journal up to this date to Dea Goodell and finished my letter to mother and gave them to Mr. Richardson to forward to the States, as he with three men is to start to-morrow to return. We have had the privilege of living alone 4, 5 nearly a week. Sab. E. & Myself spent the day alone. Mond. Mr. Griffin offered to help us this morning as we were about to move up near to the fort. We thought it would not be safe for us to remain ​400 DIARY OF ASAHEL HUNGER AND WIFE. where we are since the company left. Mr. Eichardson and his com- pany started yesterday for the States, and all the remainder or other part of the company had started before for Van Cover [Vancouver], so that we are left alone (i. e. of the company that came from the States.) Before we were ready to start two Indians came along and helped us. They packed our horses and took great pains to assist us in everything we needed after they had unpacked, they went and hailed L s i c J us a load of wood fire. This evening Mr. Ermitinger came down to inquire why we were here destitute of horses or why both claimed the same horsesl I told him the reasons how the money we had expended had been raised how much more had been expended 10 than we had anticipated &c, &c. Sat. We have been kindly supplied with milk sweet and sour, some butter, flower, sugar, &c also berries 11 from the fort. Sabbath This day has been rather long and lone- some to E. she thought much of home friends prospects & present condition. I tried to have her get above these things. I hope she 12 has in a measure. Mon. this morning all preparations made for a start for Walla Walla. Mr. E. furnished 5 horses which he had promised, and one for the Indian to ride who packed for us. The use of six horses gratis is no trifle for 500 miles travel, as I was leading the 5 horses over to the tent Mr. McKee told me that 3 of Mr. G's horses were gone they had looked for them all the morning We got started about 10 o'c. as we were about starting a very large camp of Ponack [BannockJ Indians came up to the Fort they are said to be very bad Indians There have been many of the Snake or Shoushawnee [Shoshone] Indians here since we came They are quite 13 filthy and indolent, went about 3 hours march and camped. Tues. nothing heard of the horses a very great loss indeed, nooned just above the falls on Snake river. This fall is 40 or 50 ft. perpendicular and very rapid fall above falls quite uncommon in this country rode 5 hours after noon my arm endures the journey well have no 14 pain gaining strength. Wed. Last night I had a restless night quite unwell kept E. awake she arose early and got breakfast while I 15 slept. Mr. G. unwell also. Thurs. started without breakfast rode 14 hours. In thinking of our present condition by the way I rejoiced that Jesus knows our hearts, and what will be for our highest good, which is his glory. I now throw myself upon his mercy I ask him to dispose of us as he pleases I ask his friendship. I am satisfied I sought it when contemplating this work, and the light of his coun- tenance. I am satisfied I looked to him for direction, and he has directed us. I trust he will still direct us. I love to leave all my cares with him. My prayer is in relation to labors, that God will 1 See Bancroft's Oregon, Volume I, p. 239. ​DIARY OF ASAHEL MUNGER AND WIFE. 401 provide some place for us to spend the winter where we may be useful. 16 Camped on Snake river. Frid. Camped this evening on the bed of a stieam no running water, though plenty that is standing. E. has taken cold settled in her limbs which renders it tedious for her to 17 ride my shoulder gaining. Sat. rode until 9 this morning before breakfast good water. E. better able to ride than yesterday. Sab. Camped this evening on Snake river or near it, on the opposite side of the river are what are called the Shoots. They are large springs of water shooting out of the rock 50 or 60 ft above the river. A man some years since, in attempting to swim across the river to look at this scene was drowned. Mr. Ermitinger sent to Salmon falls 3 or 4 miles distant and pm chased fresh Salmon. Mon. after riding about one hour we came to the falls here we got a supply of fish to last us to Ft Boysa [Boise.J Here the Indians have built three houses of willows and grass. These are not perpendicular falls, but rapids where they catch fish (which run up into places made for the purpose, with stones) with their hands Stopped for our breakfast on Snake river, under the shade of cedars, very warm, no grass, horses standing much of the time without attempting to find anything to 20 eat. In packing this morning, Mr. E told us to prepare our packs for crossing the river rode only one hour before we came to the crossing place. This is rather a dangerous place, the bottom of the river here is gravel and lies like snow drifts below these piles there would be deep holes, where a hoise must swim or drown if he should get into them. The water was very clear, all arrived safe no accident unfavorable Stopped soon for breakfast. Mr. Ermitinger's hunter shot a duck & a goose, gave the goose to us and Mr. Griffin Camped on standing water this evening grass very dry, had some trouble with fire used my arm rather too much today. 21 Vedncs. Today we have traveled without any road, or trail, drove late, passed the boiling springs today, the water boiled up in several places I should judge it was boiling hot. I had but little time to 22 examine them. Thurs. We have found more vegetation in the valley of the Boysa river than usual camped on its bank, expect to reach the fort tomorrow. I have had some pain for several days this 23 originates from a foul stomach. Friday this day proceeded onwards towards the Fort, saw more cotton wood, though not except on streams no rain the roads very dusty all covered over with dust and eyes filled with it found a good place to rest our horses and ourselves, grass plenty, came in sight of the Fort between 3 & 4. Camped in a field; on a bank of the river near the fort found the people here friendly indeed. Eliza feels almost worn out, and no wonder. But there is one consolation. The Lord designs all our troubles for his glory, and our highest good. I took cold today in ​402 DIARY OF ASAHEL HUNGER AND WIFE. bathing, had some fever, "removed my cold by sweating. Mr. Ermit- inger has been exceedingly kind to us since we started (as well as before) he has acted the part of a gentleman indeed & continues to do so. He said to us "make up your minds how much flour, and meal, fish, sugar, butter & cawesh [camasj (a kind of root that is 25 good for food) you want, and I will supply you. Sab. This day we spent alone have been reading God's dealings with Israel. 26 Mon. Today Mr. Ermitinger again advised us not to make up our minds where to go until we had seen Dr. Whitman I told him we 27 should not. Tues. Left Boiza about 10 o'c for Walla Walla, camp'd on Snake river. Wednes. Left this river to see it no more. Mr. Ermitinger gave us to understand that he should use his influence to 29 get us a place for the winter with Dr. Whitman. Thurs. This evening 30 I had a present of a beautiful pair of moccasins. Friday. Most of the way since leaving Boiza has been through a sandy plain, some 31 small hills, increase of vegetation dusty roads. Sat. more hills to- day a shower stopped us a few minutes today drove late camp'd on the grand round as it is call'd, a small river. Mr. Griffin tried to Mond employ a guide here to conduct him to Mr. Spauldings. Monday 2d Sept.2Sept. Commenced traveling through the Blue Mountains. These are principally covered with pine rained some last night, made six hours march yesterday and today about 4 hours before noon, before stopping at noon we descended a long hill off the Blue Mountains 2 or 3 miles long found an encampment of Indians heard by them that Dr. Whit- man was not at home was at Mr. Spauldings. They expected him next Thursday we camped this evening in a place where we found but little water and less grass. The fire ran over the whole plain nearly, and left none for our horses. Near us is a little mound about 3 feet above the level of the ground, of a kind of turf or mud covered with grass, out of the top of this, the water was constantly boiling 4 flavor rather sulphurous. Wednes. Took breakfast this morning before starting, after 5 or 6 hours we reached the Walla Walla river and stopped to rest. I omitted to notice that Mr. Griffin left us this morning for Mr. Spauldings without a guide. In 3 or 4 hours we reached the Fort This was the end of our journey as anticipated when we left Oberlin. We were welcomely received by Mr. Pomber [PambrunJ the keeper of the fort. This man has a wife and 6 children. He has raised some vegetables this season. He had quite a patch of potatoes 2 or 3 acres, had some cabbages and mellons, beets, turnips, fowls, bread, salt and fresh salmon, and in fact everything of living kind which we want. Had the privilege of sitting down in a house which was quite comfortably done off eat at a table, sit upon chairs, and sleep in a house, which were refreshing and as you may jud[g]e quite acceptable after a journey of 4 months. This Fort is ​DIARY OF ASAHEL MUNGER AND WIFE. 403 situated upon the Columbia river. Here is the point where we first 9 saw the river. Monday, we spent our time pleasantly in many respects from the time of our arrival until the present. Mr. Pomber, we understood by Mr. Ermitinger had concluded to give us an invitation to spend the winter with him and busy ourselves by teaching his children, and the like, if we dont find an opportunity to spend the winter with Dr. Whitman. This he has done for our accommodation and not for his convenience. This morning Mr. Smith and Mr. Rogers (missionaries) arrived and the man that helped us from the States. He told us that Mr. Griffin arrived at Dr. Whitman's on Wednesday last. He drove very fast in order to get there before we should. When he arrived he found the family were not at home, and only stayed 3 or 4 hours hired a pilot started for Mr. Spauldings with the intention of arriving there before they left. But it proved other- wise. Dr. Whitman and his wife, Mr. Hall the printer from Sandwich Islands and his wife arrived here soon after noon. They had been here but a few hours before the way was prepared for us to go home with them and spend the winter. They wanted joiner work, and such other things as I could do. Here I cannot help mentioning the providence of God in answering our prayer. We have prayed to God in our trouble that he would provide some place for us to spend the winter where we might be useful. I rejoice that we did not engage to go down to the Willamit for evidently the Lord has sent us here. Through all our trials I cannot say that I have ever regretted that we have undertaken this journey. Though I do regret that we started as we did, or in the way we did. I have always felt as I did before 10 starting; the consciousness that the Lord had sent us. Tuesday I this morning closed a bargain with Dr. Whitman and made arrange- ments to go home with him today. Mr. Ermitinger had a long talk with him and all the other missionaries, that were here. Brother Geger [Geiger]! & Mr. Johnsons called on Dr. Whitman (as they came on before us from Ft Hall) and helped to pave the way that led us to the harbor we are in this fall. Left the Fort in company with Dr. Whitman & his wife on horseback, (had two horses of Mr. Pomber) about one o'clock. We lingered along some when first setting out on account of Mrs. Hall, she is not able to ride on horse back having been diseased for years with a spinal affection, and came here for the purpose of recovering her health. 3 men took a canoe, and are going up the Walla Walla river with her. We rode on after leaving them tolerably fast arrived at home before sunset 25 miles. You can judge something of Eliza's health and strength if 1 William Geiger who became a permanent settler of Oregon. 2 D. G. Johnson who left soon for the Hawaiian Islands. ​404 DIARY OF ASAHEL MUNGER AND WIFE. % she is able after riding almost constantly for 4 months, to get on to a Sept Shorse & ride 25 miles in less than half a day Thurs. We found Dr. Whitman in comfortable circumstances. He has raised about 100 bushels of corn, rising of a 1000 bushels of potatoes as he thinks, though they are not yet dug some wheat peas, beans beets, carrots turnips squashes melons onions broom corn hops summer and winter squashes pumkins &c. He has provisions enough for his family for the year and some to spare to the Indians to pay them for their labor. I commenced preparing a bench and tools to work with. Dr. W. had a house built of brick, or dobies as they are called, made of clay without burning. This they wanted to have finished, as soon as possible as Mr. Hall is to occupy it this winter. He had good pine timber seasoned and piled up in house ready to finish it off, and all the materials to do it with. All that was lacking was a joiner. I commenced working at one of the rooms (the one designed for the parlor) about two weeks ago, and finished it today. My arm has recovered nearly its usual strength. Eliza's health is good I [never?] knew it better. She is now assisting Mrs. Whitman in her household affairs. Mrs. W. is teaching the Indian children. The school com- menced since we came here. They have delayed the school for want of a Book. They have now acquired a sufficient knowledge of the language to teach and communicate religious instruction on the Sab- bath. They have now quite a large school children quite interested to learn. The collection for a school is yet a novelty with them How long they will continue to be as deeply interested, no one knows. Mr. Ermitinger called here on his return to Ft Hall. Just before he arrived a Lawyer by the name of Farnam arrived from the States to our great surprise. He had started with quite a company, but they had been falling off, one after another until there [were?] only about half a dozen when they arrived here. Mr. Griffin's horses were found. It is said they were stolen by the Indians and Mr. Walker at Ft Hall gave one of them for finding the other two. We have found friends as you will judge from what I have said are surrounded by those that appear like brothers and sisters. We expect in a few days to com- mence keeping house. What the Lord is going to do with us we dont know, but it is enough for us to know what he is now doing with us. I hope we may always trust in him and I am sure he will always direct our steps If any are expecting to come to this region as mis- sionaries it is well that they should be informed in relation to some facts of which we have been ignorant. There are no establishments for raising grain and other provisions in this region except at Coloil- ville [ Colville?] 300 miles above here Van Cover rising of 200 miles below, and at the Willamit about 300 miles below. At Colville they dont spare their provisions except it is to accommodate. If the mis​DIARY OP ASAHEL HUNGER AND WIFE. 405 sionaries have to purchase flour at Walla Walla they have to pay between 20 or 25 dollars pr barrel, including all expenses of transporta- tion &c (as nothing is raised here at all for sale, even their supplies most of them are brought from other places.) The missionaries have none for sale. At Van Cover they are cultivating new land and raising large crops but are buying grain rather than selling I suppose for the sake of accommodation they would spare some, though they prefer not to do it. It will be necessary for missionaries who are coming out to support themselves to come prepared to purchase their year's provisions their farming utensils such as plough irons hoes axes and such other tools as are necessary for tilling the ground and making their houses. It is also necessary to have knives, blankets, ammunition &c to some extent in order to trade with the Indians. I hope to be able to give more facts in relation to the prospects of self supporting missions in my next, which will probably arrive about 3 months later than this. Mr. Griffin is now at Mr. Spaulding's about 125 miles from here. He has the promise of some blacksmith work will probably find enough to support him through the winter. Where he will locate himself is not known at present. There are many things I might add to our journal which would be interesting, but must close here for want of time. From your children ASAHEL & ELIZA MUNGEE.