# The Amateur's Greenhouse and Conservatory/Chapter 13

CHAPTER XIII.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY CLIMBERS.
Incidentally a few trailing and climbing plants have been already treated of, but it is time we gave them a little attention as constituting a distinct class, possessing certain characteristics in common. And it may be proper in the first place to remark upon their importance as elements in the furniture of a plant-house. It is simply impossible without their aid to produce the rich effect of a covered garden which we look for in a conservatory, and the lack of which fills us with a sense of coldness and opportunity wasted. It matters not how well the borders, stages, and other parts near the ground line of the structure, may be furnished, the eye will travel upwards, and if pillars and roof are alike unclothed, the feeling that there is something wanting will be painful. On the other hand, a judicious selection of twining and climbing plants will not only fill up a void, but present forms of beauty distinct in many respects from those that characterise the plants of the ground line. The lovely tracery of a tacsonia or lapageria seen against the sky as the plant follows the lines of the roof is a feature of the highest value, and the necessity for it increases with every advance in the dimensions and pretensions of the conservatory requiring to be furnished.
Coming to practical matters we are bound to say that small plant houses devoted chiefly to working purposes should not be cumbered with climbing plants at all. If they thrive they will be in the way, and will impede the light, but as they must be grown in pots, the probability is that they will not thrive, and that is a fatal reason for avoiding them. Having blown hot and cold with the same breath, we proceed to remark that as a rule, climbers should always be planted in borders or not at all, but we feel bound to admit that we have grown many fine examples of first rate plants of this class and have seen ​the same accomplished by others often enough to make exceptions to disprove the rule. Nevertheless, we pronounce the rule good, and hope the reader will be cautious in disregarding it, for above all things we do wish this little book to prove a preventive of vexations as well as a guide to the production and enjoyment of delights. If climbing plants do not grow vigorously and to a certain extent naturally, they soon become the prey of all sorts of vermin and in all likelihood will never flower at all.
If a border cannot be provided, boxes of wood, slate, or stone will be found useful as cheap and servicable substitutes. The boxes should measure a yard every way, to contain a cubic yard of soil at the very least, but they may be two feet instead of three feet deep and they may be only one foot wide. If the measurement is curtailed in one way it must be enlarged in another, and in any case there must be a depth of at least two feet of soil, or no strong growing plant will thrive in it. In making a border, the size and arrangement of the house must in some degree determine the order of operations. Most conservatories have a three-feet table round the sides, and underneath this table the border must be made; and here arise the principal difficulties that have to be contended with in dealing with houses that were erected without any reference to the manner in which they were to be furnished. The border should be three feet wide and four deep to grow the plants in a satisfactory manner. Now, if we go down to that depth, a hundred chances to one we shall let the walls in, and the pipes are generally above ground, under the side table, which prevents us running a four-inch wall up to within a few inches of it. In cases of this description, the boxes have to be put into use, and on the top of the table. To prevent their looking unsightly, a few shoots of the plants that are growing in them should be neatly trained over the sides.
The borders, as already explained, should be about three feet wide by four deep, but a few inches either way is of no material consequence. In the bottom of the trench or border should be placed twelve inches of broken brickbats for drainage, and over this bed should be laid fresh turves, grass-side downwards. For filling in the border, nothing beats a compost consisting of three parts good turfy loam, and a part each of decayed leaf-mould and manure. The loam should be obtained from the top spit of pasture or common land, and be full of ​fibre, and chopped up into pieces the size of one's fist. Common garden soil is quite useless for this purpose, as no plant will thrive in it. To induce the plants to root quickly in the new soil, a little river sand may be mixed with the soil at the spot where the plants are to go, for the free-growing kinds, and silver sand for the slow-growing and choicer kinds. The plants should be managed so that they do not interfere much with the light required for the well-being of the subjects underneath; and, though the beauty of this class of plants consists in their being allowed to grow in a seemingly natural manner, they must not be left to themselves, or they will soon run wild and get unsightly; therefore they must have frequent attention in the way of stopping and training, and those on the roof must be cut hard back in the autumn to admit plenty of light. Those on the walls and pillars can be pruned at any season of the year, so long as they are kept neat and trim. Generally speaking, from October to March is the best time for pruning them. We often hear objections made to employing climbers on account of their shading the house too much, but the objection is untenable. In the summer all plants are benefited by a partial shade; and what can be more suitable than a green canopy of foliage, from which numberless flowers hang about in graceful profusion. In the winter when shade is really objectionable, the summer growth can be cut away.
We have thus far spoken as if we were thinking of climbing and twining plants only, but we must include in our selection a few that have no climbing propensities or means of taking hold of support, because of their suitability to the walls and pillars, and generally speaking to improve the aerial perspective. The very first on the list is of this category.
Abutilon.—The plants belonging to this genus have large handsome foliage, with beautifully marked bell-shaped flowers, the prevailing colours being orange, striped and veined with various shades of red and crimson. A. striatum and A. vexillarum are the two best species for covering walls. Both do well planted out in the summer, in a sheltered position, and are propagated by seed or cuttings of half ripened side-shoots in the summer. They should be carefully pruned, so as to keep them well furnished from bottom to top.
Acacia.—We have several species in this genus that do ​well trained up pillars and walls, their feathery foliage giving the house a peculiar light and elegant appearance. In addition to the beauty of the foliage, they flower with the greatest abundance in the spring, loading the atmosphere with the most grateful odour. Young plants are readily raised from seed. A. offinis, A. dealhata, A. pubescens, A. Biceana, are four good species.
Bignonia.—B. Cherere, B. jasminoides, B. venusta, and B. grandiflora are all good. The first and last are strong growers, and most suitable for large structures. The first produces large bunches of scarlet and orange flowers; the second has neat, dark, glossy green foliage, with white flowers, and will do for any-sized house. To promote flowering keep the wood thinned out, and keep them rather dry at the roots through September and October. They will flower freely if the wood is properly ripened, and both the above-mentioned proceedings materially aid that necessary process. The stubby side-shoots when about half ripe strike freely.
Clematis.—There are so many beautiful species and varieties of the Virgin's Bower, that it is rather a difficult matter to know where to begin, when making a selection. They are mostly hardy, and are unequalled for covering trellises either in doors or out. They are easily increased by cuttings or layers; the last-mentioned way is the surest to adopt by those who know very little about propagating matters. July is the best time for performing the operation. For flowering in May and June select Azurea grandiflora, deep purple; Standishi, violet-blue; Fortunei, large double white; and John Gould Veitch. These must be pruned very hard in the winter, as they flower from the old wood through May and June. For flowering after the above, the undermentioned are particularly good:—Jackmanni, violet-purple; Rubra-violacea, maroon shaded with violet; Rubella, rich velvety claret; Lanuginosa, pale blue, very large; Lanuginosa candida. These bloom on the young wood, and should be pruned back to about four buds in November.
Cobæa.—C. scandens and C. scandens variegata are invaluable for covering quickly large spaces, but with judicious management are equally good for small houses. G. penduliflora is a curiosity ​and remarkably elegant when in flower. The side-branches should be pruned back to a couple of eyes, and the young
COBÆA PENDULIFLORA.
shoots, if they are allowed to grow without stopping, will flower freely. When they are kept constantly pinched back through the summer there is little else besides wood. All the growths that are not required should be removed altogether. Propagation by either cuttings or seeds. The plants require plenty of water when growing freely through the summer.
Fuchsia.—The robust habited fuchsias are wonderful pillar plants when trained up from twelve to twenty feet, and ​furnished with healthy shoots from the bottom to the top and nicely in flower. When first planted they should have as much attention and skill employed upon them as is brought to bear upon growing specimens for exhibition, and unless this is done in the first instance, it is a difficult matter to make them first-rate afterwards. If planted out in light rich soil, and regularly stopped and trained until they get into shape, they will be superior to the best pot-plants ever grown in this country.
Gompholobium.—G. polymorplium splendens is a pretty neat little thing for choice spots, and where it can get plenty of light and air. It should be grown in peat mixed with a little fibry loam and plenty of silver sand. As it is rather a delicate-rooted plant, water must be applied carefully, so that it does not get too much or too little. Unless it can be placed in a position where it can have the proper treatment, one of the stronger-growing plants had bettter be employed.
Habrothamnus.—H. elegans and H. fasciculatus are both admirable subjects for walls and pillars, but best for the latter, and especially useful for supplying an abundance of cut flowers for the bouquet and table. The flowers are rosy crimson, and of good substance, and last fresh and good for some time after being cut. The side-branches should be cut back to a couple of eyes in much the same manner as a grape vine. Red-spider is partial to it, therefore it should not suffer for want of water at the roots, and a good syringing now and then will help to keep these abominable pests in subjection.
Hoya.—H. carnosa and H. carnosa variegata are both valuable plants for training over the roof. They are vigorous growers, with compact massive-looking foliage. The flowers show better when the plants are trained overhead. Plenty of water in the summer, and rather dry when at rest, are the chief points to consider. Mix a little peat and plenty of crocks broken small with the soil. A branch laid in a 6-in. pot will soon root and make a plant. In a cool house the Hoya is of no use at all.
Jasminum.—J. azoricum and J. grandiflorum are both highly fragrant, and the latter has the additional qualification of ​flowering in the winter, and is invaluable for cutting for bouquets.
Kennedya.—We can dip deeply into this beautiful genus, for all are more or less good, so far as regards the beauty of the flowers and neatness of foliage. But they have the bad quality of soon becoming smothered with the small white scale, and it is utterly impossible to keep them clean after they are once infested. The soil should be composed of loam and peat in equal quantities, with plenty of drainage. K. coccinea major, K. inophylla floribunda, K. monophylla, and its beautiful varieties, alba and rosea, K. rubicunda, one of the best for covering large spaces quickly—all are good, either for roof or walls. As most of those enumerated are tender rooted, due care must be paid to the watering at all times and seasons, more particularly through the winter. The Kennedyas will strike readily from cuttings in the hands of a skilful propagator, but the best plan for those who have not had much practice will be to sow seeds, which can be readily obtained of most species. The seeds should be soaked in water several hours before sowing.
Lapagerta.—L. rosea and L. alba are grand when well done. As the flowers droop beneath the foliage, they are just what we want for the roof. Nothing can surpass the beauty of their lovely pendent blossoms. The drainage should be first-rate, as it requires an abundant supply of water when growing. The soil should consist of good fibrous peat, mixed with a little loam and plenty of sand. The plants will receive an immense amount of benefit from a partial shade in hot weather.
Mandevillea.—M. suaveolens is fine for warm greenhouses, and moreover valuable for cutting. Its delicate white flowers being highly fragrant, are very popular for hand bouquets. Best for pillars and walls.
Maurandya.—There are three pretty varieties that will suit any greenhouse, namely M. alba, M. Barclayana, and M. kermesina. They are extremely neat in growth and answer admirably for light trellises, balustrades, and baskets.
Mutisia.—This is a really hardy genus of composite plants. The best are M. clematis and M. decurrens. The large orange ​coloured star-like flowers of the latter are distinct and dashing, and the plant requires the least attention of any climber known.
Myrisiphyllum.—A remarkably elegant genus of delicate
MYRSIPHYLLUM ASPARAGOIDES.
twiners. They require sandy peat or very mellow loam and leaf mould, with plenty of sand. M. asparagoides is the best.
Passiflora.—Here is another genus from which we can make an almost unlimited selection of good kinds, for pick where we will we shall not find any really bad. Like everything else, some are better than others. We want the best, and the following selection cannot well be improved upon for the greenhouse: P. Cærulea, P. Colvilli, P. hybrida floribunda, P. Loudoniana, P. Cincinnati, and P. racemosa purpurea. All the young growth not required should be cut away, and the other shoots allowed to grow to their full length, to induce them to produce plenty of flowers. When all the shoots are
PASSION FLOWER—TACSONIA BUCHANANI.
​allowed to grow together, and then kept pinched back continuously, as is often done, very few flowers may be expected. In the winter they should be pruned back to a couple of eyes, and
PASSIFLORA CINCINNATA.
when they break, if both shoots are not wanted, rub one off. A little management of this description will save a world of trouble when they are in full growth.
Pleromas.—The best place for pleromas is an intermediate house. The soil should be composed of equal parts of good peat, silky loam, and leaf-mould, and a half part each small potsherds and sharp sand. In the earlier stages of growth a larger proportion of sand should be used. During ​winter water must be given with great care, the roots being kept rather dry; in summer, when the plants are growing freely, water must be supplied in plenty. The best of the pleromas for the warm greenhouse is P. sarmentosa, which makes a nice specimen plant in a pot if trained to a wire balloon. The flowers are of a fine violet colour, shading into blue.
TACSONIA ERIANTHA.
Plumbago.—The fast growing blue-flowered P. capensis is a good pillar plant and will supply useful flowers for bouquets. Cuttings of young wood strike as freely as fuchsias. When growing freely it should be frequently syringed.
PLEROMA SARMENTOSA.
​Solanum.—The well known S. jasminoides may be employed to clothe either walls, pillars, or roof. Plant in the border and keep well watered in summer. It may be easily increased by means of cuttings.
Tacsonia.—The species with which this interesting genus is made up are eminently beautiful, but only adapted for large houses. They are strong growers, and unless they can ramble about freely, very few flowers will be the result. Treat them as advised for the Passifloras. The best for the greenhouse are T. Buchanani, T. Van Volxemi, and T. eriantha.
Vitis.—The grape-vine is a princely plant for a greenhouse roof, and one of the easiest to grow and to render fruitful. If a
VITIS HETEROPHYLLA.
curiosity in the way of a vine be wanted, you may plant the blue-berried Vitis heterophylla, or the parsley-leaved V. vinifera apiifolia.