# Spirella Manual (1913)/Section 10
## SECTION 10.SECTION 10.
### Directions for Taking Measurements.

96. THE FIRST THING to decide when taking an order, is whether you can fit your customer in a Standard Corset. To determine which one of our Standard Models is best adapted to your customer's figure, and to ascertain the proportions of her figure, take all regular measurements called for on our Special and Custom Order Blank. (For complete in­structions see Book, "How to Take Measurements") explained in part as follows :
1st. WAIST LINE, which is determined by drawing the tape line tightly around the waist over corset, outer garments removed and corset properly adjusted and laced, then deduct 2 inches from the full waist measurement. For instance, if the woman measures 26 inches around the waist, and she desires to wear her corset open 2 inches in the back at the waist line, the way a corset should be worn, order size 24. All other dimen­sions will be made on the same proportions as given in our revised Catalog.
2nd. BUST SIZE, which is determined by drawing the tape smoothly but not tightly, around the larger part of the bust in front and just above the lower edge of the shoulder blade in the back and deducting 3 inches for Back-Laced Corsets and 2 inches for Laced-in-Front.
3rd. HIP SIZE is determined by drawing the tape line tightly across the abdomen and around the hips exactly 6½ and 9 inches, respectively, below the waist line, and from this measurement deduct 3 inches for Back-Laced Corsets and from 1 to 2 inches for Laced-in-Front. Take both measurements as shown on Figure "A" of our instructions on measurements.
4th. UNDER ARM MEASUREMENT is taken from 1 to 9 as shown in cut "A" of our instructions on measurements, and Special and Custom ​Order Blank, to ascertain the height your customer wants the corset made above the waist line.
5th. GROIN MEASUREMENT. You should also take the groin measurement as shown in the same cut from 6 to 7, and, if you are doubt­ful about the Standard Corset fitting, take all regular measurements as directed in paragraph 96 of this section. It is important to take the groin measurement and the length of front clasp from waist line down when customer is standing and also when sitting. Standing measurement is for length of material; sitting measurement is to decide length of boning.
You should by all means take all the measurements called for in our Special and Customer Order Blank. After taking all regular measure­ments, if you find that a certain style fits your customer exactly, or these measurements correspond very nearly to the proportions given in Catalog, it will doubtless be best to order a Standard Corset for her. YOU MUST USE GOOD JUDGMENT AT THIS POINT IN DECIDING UPON THE STYLE AND WHETHER A STANDARD CORSET WILL FIT YOUR CUSTOMER. DO NOT MAKE A SPECIAL OR CUSTOM CORSET UNLESS IT IS NECESSARY. It is important, therefore, that you have a knowledge of the various models which we make and the pro­portions of each. You can get this by committing to memory the pro­portions given for each of the styles in Illustrated Catalog.
A STANDARD CORSET of any particular style is always built on the same proportions, regardless of size. For instance, if you order a certain style, size 26, the proportions will be the same as sizes 22 or 30 and as given in our revised Catalog. (See your Catalog.) When ordering a Standard Corset, the only dimensions necessary is to give the waist size. Do not send the full measurement without making the proper deductions. Always use Standard Order Blank when ordering Standard Corsets.
97. When you decide that your customer can be fitted in a Standard Corset, it is only necessary to give the WAIST SIZE, STYLE AND MA­TERIAL WANTED. Any change whatever in the proportions of a corset from the Standard, makes it a Special, and we must charge 50 cents extra for each and every Full Special ordered. Same changes include more than one Special. For such a higher price is charged. See Wholesale Price List for such charges. On this extra charge no commission is allowed. For instance, for one Full Special you must pay 50 cents additional; for two Full Specials, $1.00 additional. (Note in Wholesale Price List that certain combinations of two Specials can be made for 75 cents.) If four or more changes (See definition of Ordinary Custom Corsets, Wholesale Price List) are ordered, we will make the garment a Custom Corset for $2.00 extra (except in extra size and unusual changes which would constitute an Ex­traordinary Custom Corset (See Wholesale Price List), when as many changes in measurements as are needed can be made. Therefore, while we allow you to take as many measurements as you please for your own con­venience in deciding what style your customer should wear and whether or not she can wear a Standard, do not send us any measurements ​except the WAIST SIZE (See Standard Order Blank) unless you want us to make the garment a Special and are willing to pay for each and every Special ordered. These measurements should all be taken over the corset with the outer garments removed. Never take a customer's measurements without a corset on. The woman should have her corset laced as she intends to wear her new corset, no tighter and no looser. If the corset she is wearing does not fit her well, you should use your best judgment in taking her measurements. If your customer wants a Custom Corset, be especially particular about taking measure­ments. It might be well to put on her one of your models which fits her best. Do this whenever practicable. When taking measurements, the arms should be always hanging naturally by the side, never raised above the shoulders, as this changes the proportions of the body.
98. SPECIALS.—If your customer requires any changes from the Standard proportions of the corset she is, ordering, and you think that the variation is so pronounced that it cannot be adjusted in lacing the corset, a change can be made in the regular garment by ordering a Special and paying for same. If the bust, hips or any other measurements vary from the proportions given in our illustrated Catalog. and you want us to follow the measurements exactly, you must so state and allow 50 cents extra for each and every change. The proportions of our Standard Corsets are correct for the individual type of figure for which each one is built, and as every woman is anxious to approach as nearly as she may to the ideal figure, it is well to order the Standard Corset whenever it is possible. We can make a corset to fit any figure perfectly, whether it is regular or irregular, if the customer is willing to pay for the extra work and expense necessary in making a Special or Custom Corset. Do not ask us to put the time and expense required to make changes in a garment unless you are willing to allow for the extra expense. The great variety of different models, grouped into series, gives you a large assort­ment from which to select, and if you understand these models and varia­tions, you will not often order a Special.
When you do order any changes or Specials, always use our "Special and Custom Order Blank." State how many Specials are desired, and mark an "X" opposite each and every measurement you desire to be made Special. Measurements not marked with an "X" will be disregarded unless it is an order for a full Custom Garment. Illustrate the Special or Specials needed as far as possible on figures "A," "E," and "ZZ," on Special and Custom Order Blank. When ordering Specials, give simple, intelligent instructions, and give them in as few words as possible. Make your directions so plain that they cannot be misunder­stood, and above all things, be definite. Our SPECIAL AND CUSTOM ORDER BLANK assists you in doing this, and; you should use it for all Custom and Special Orders. We supply these blanks on request.
99. THE WAIST LINE, which lies at the center of the tape in the corset, and at the smallest girth around the figure, is the base from which all measurements for the corset are taken. Never state you want a corset made so many inches longer or shorter than Standard. ​State exactly how many inches the corset should be above or below the waist line at a specific point. When ordering any changes in the front clasp, state exactly how many inches you want the front clasp to ex­tend above, and how many inches below the waist line, do not say to make front clasp one inch longer or add one inch to the top or bottom of clasp. If you want a change made in the length of the groin, state ex­actly how long the groin should be from 6 to 7, and have your customer both stand and sit while taking this measurement. Do the same in taking measurements below the waist line for the front clasp. If extra fullness is to be put in the top of the corset, tell us at what point you want the fullness, whether in front of bust, side of bust, under arm or in the back, or whether You want this extra fullness distributed equally around the top. You may illustrate this on cuts "A" and "E" on SPECIAL AND CUS­TOM ORDER BLANK. If you want a corset made higher in the bust, state whether you want it graded, down to standard height at the top of clasp and graded down to standard height under the arm. The same is true in regard to changes made in the lower part of the corset. If extra fullness is to be put in the lower half of the corset, state the exact point where this fullness is needed, whether the side of the hip, back of the hip or whether between 4 and 7 or 7 and 10 on Figure "A," or whether you want the extra fullness distributed equally all around If you want full­ness taken out of the corset at the top or bottom give similar directions by stating the exact point at which you want the fullness taken out or whether you want it distributed all around the top or bottom, as the case may be.
100. CUP BUST SPECIAL.—We make several styles of corsets and waists carrying the cup bust special. (See Catalog.) These are built up and over and give form to the bust. Any extension in the height of the bust of those corsets not carrying cup busts would make the corset higher, but would not draw the top of the Corset in over the bust, cup shape, giving it the shape of the regular cup bust corset. Those de­siring the cup bust corset must order one of the styles in the Catalog carrying this feature. On those corsets which do not take the cup bust special, we can add soft extension with draw tape if desired.
You must be explicit and exact in giving us instructions about Specials and changes to be made, if you are anxious to have a corset made as de­sired. We furnish you with Custom and Special Order Blanks on appli­cation; the explanations are very complete and will enable you to ex­plain to us exactly what you want. You must study the Catalog, know the proportions, and how to take measurements when Ordering Specials. Con­tinue to study and re-study these sections after you have commenced work.
101. Measurements for Specials must be taken with the greatest care and you should study the results, learning from your experience.
Always be explicit in your directions, and give the dimensions in inches, stating THE EXACT LENGTH THE CORSET IS TO BE BUILT ABOVE OR BELOW THE WAIST LINE AND THE EXACT NUMBER OF INCHES YOU WANT IT MADE AROUND THE TOP OR BOTTOM AT A PARTICULAR POINT. We do nothing by guess. If you fail to make your meaning clear, we must send your order back and write you regarding the matter. This delays your work and causes you, as well as ourselves, inconvenience and trouble. ​We make a uniform charge of 50 cents for each and every Full Special up to four changes (See Wholesale Price List). We charge only $2.00 extra for Ordinary Custom Garment in which we make all changes required unless it is extra size, added features, or the customer is deformed.
For extra charges see Section 13, Paragraph 123, of this Manual and our Wholesale Price List
102. CUSTOM WORK.—When four or more changes are to be made, it is better to order a full Custom Made Corset. The cost, will be no greater for a Custom Corset made from a pattern drafted specially for your individual customer than to have four changes made in a Standard Corset.
In ordering full Custom Work, you must he very careful about taking measurements and giving instructions so plain and clear that they cannot be misunderstood. You must practice taking all of these measurements and be sure you know how before you attempt to take full Custom orders.
In taking measurements for Custom work you must see to it that your customer has her corset properly adjusted and properly laced. Insist upon taking the measurements over the corset with the outer gar­ments removed, then you can examine her corset and see how it is ad­justed.
103. You must always use our SPECIAL AND CUSTOM ORDER BLANK and fill out every measurement and give all information re­quired on same. You should illustrate the Special changes to be made from Standard, on Figures "A," "E," and "ZZ." If you are careful and explicit in filling out these measurements and illustrate the same, our de­signers can picture your customer very accurately and can make a gar­ment to fit the case exactly. Do not write a long letter about the order, but explain and illustrate everything on the SPECIAL AND CUSTOM ORDER BLANK. If you will give us all the information required on this blank we will guarantee to make the garment exactly what your order calls for. WE MAKE A SPECIALTY OF THIS KIND OF WORK. THESE GARMENTS ARE MADE AT YOUR RISK; THAT IS, IF YOU FAIL ON YOUR PART IN TAKING MEAS­UREMENTS YOU MUST KEEP THE GARMENT AND PAY FOR IT. WE SIMPLY GUARANTEE THAT WE WILL FOLLOW IN­STRUCTIONS YOU GIVE US AND IT REMAINS FOR YOU TO GIVE THEM ACCURATELY.
104. SPECIAL FITTING.— We will send a Custom Corset to you for special fitting before it is boned if you request it and when such fittings are required you must add from ten to fifteen cents additional for postage.
A Custom Corset must be modeled after some particular style of Corset in our Catalog and you must state which style you want us to follow.
We invariably charge $2.00 extra for any corset which is sent out for special fitting, whether it is a Standard, Special or Custom garment. A Custom Corset ranging in size from 31 to 36 inclusive, costs $2.50 extra, and one in sizes from 37 to 42, inclusive, $3.00 more than Standard. When ​we send a corset for special fitting and it is soiled or changed in the fitting to such an extent that we cannot use the original material, we must charge from $1.00 to $5.00 extra, according to cost of material, for material and time wasted.
105. We draft a pattern for and make a Custom Corset provided it follows one of our designs. We will not, however, follow any design not given in our Catalog or make an entirely new deigsn for a Custom Corset for less than $25.00 or more. If a person wants a Custom Corset made after some design which we do not show in the Catalog, you should write us for special prices on the same. In making a price on a Custom Corset we allow you to make an extra charge (See Wholesale Price List) in addition to our charge of $2.00, so as to give you extra profit on Custom work. You should also add to this whatever charge is made for Hose Supporters if ordered. We must receive $2.00 extra for each Ordinary Custom garment (and more on extra sizes, etc.) and cannot give you any commission an this extra charge nor on the 50 cents extra charge for each Special when you order Specials. We advise that you make an extra charge for fitting for yourself on both Special and Custom orders. Don't be afraid of charging people when you are rendering them a valuable ser­vice. People do not appreciate the services you are giving them as a rule unless you charge for them. Be firm an this point, as you are certainly in a position to command a large business, including a legitimate profit for yourself an Custom work.
106. We know of no corset house that produces a genuine Custom Corset made to order for less than $6.00 to $10.00. Those who claim they make Custom goods for less money are simply posing.
107. DEFORMED CLASS.—We make Corsets for deformed people, but as there are no two deformities just alike and the consequent expense varies greatly, we must quote special prices in each case. The prices of this work vary from $35.00 to $50.00 and may run even higher. Do not encourage work of this character unless the person is willing to pay a reasonable price.